Travel ireland Volume 3 Issue 30

Travelireland Volume 3 Issue 30 October 2016

McDonagh’s Masterpiece

The Beauty Queen of Leenane

At The Gaiety Theatre

The Dark Sky Festival

Up and Coming Artist Isobel Egan’s new Exhibition

Richard Harris Film Festival

magazine

28 shows in 18 Days and Nights it's

Dublin Theatre Festival Time Ghoulish History at

St Michans

by Pat Liddy

Cobh Heritage Centre

Sign of the times

Signatories at The Olympia Theatre

You saw them here first at The Hard Working Class Heroes Festival

We’re closing briefly in order to bring you the greatest living whiskey experience.

RE-OPENING MARCH 2017 jamesonwhiskey.com/ojd

CONTENTS

4 Welcome To Leinster 5 Signatories at Olympia Theatre 6 The Beauty Queen of Leenane 8 Theatre 10 Dublin Theatre Festival 14 St Michans by Pat Liddy 16 Leinster Restaurants 19 Leinster Pubs 20 Inside Outside - Isolbel Egan at Gallery Zozimus 22 Shopping 24 Explore Leinster 25 Hard Working Class Heroes 26 Welcome to Munster 28 Munster Pubs 29 Munster Restaurants 30 Kerry Film festival 31 Celebrate Cork's Maritime Heritage 32 Explore Munster 33 Sullivan's Brewing Company 34 Richard Harris Festival 36 Artisan Food & Drink 38 Welcome to Connaught 40 Connaught Pubs 41 Connaught Restaurants 42 Dark Sky Festival 44 Explore Connaught 46 Welcome To Ulster 47 Explore Ulster 48 Ulster Pubs 49 Ulster Restaurants 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our October issue.

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. October really is a month for the arts in Ireland, with some amazing events lined up. The Beauty Queen of Leenane celebrates its twentieth anniversary at the Gaiety Theatre while there is theatre for all tastes at the Dublin Theatre Festival. Killarney and Limerick are the places to be for film buffs as the Kerry Film Festival and Richard Harris Film Festival come to town. Head to Gallery Zozimus to check out Isobel Egan’s fantastic new exhibition Inside Outside or enjoy the best of emerging Irish music at Hard Working Class Heroes. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte.

Enjoy your stay.

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Aran Sheehan (aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie, 085 711 0826) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Carl Mark O’Neill.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Stephen’s Green Park through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough

range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’.

You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

Signatories at Olympia Theatre

F

ollowing its sold-out world premiere run in Kilmainham Gaol, Signatories will be revived at the Olympia Theatre, running from 4 to 8 October. This fascinating work by Verdant Productions, in association with UCD, explores the stories of the seven signatories of the Irish Proclamation, as well as Nurse Elizabeth O’Farrell who delivered the surrender in the Easter Rising of 1916.

The cast includes eight of Ireland’s finest actors (Barbara Brennan, Frank McCusker, Karen McCartney, Roseanna Purcell, Stephen Jones, Shane O'Reilly, Joe Taylor, Ronan Leahy) while each individual story has been written by a different writer.

Oscar nominated Emma Donoghue writes Elizabeth O’Farrell, Guardian Fiction Prize winner Thomas Kilroy writes Padraig Pearse, winner of the Rooney Prize for Irish Literature Hugo Hamilton writes James Connolly, Tony Award

winner Frank McGuinness writes Éamonn Ceannt, emerging talent on the Irish theatre scene Rachel Fehily writes Thomas Clarke, winner of the Bisto Book of the Year Éilís Ní Dhuibhne writes Sean McDermott, winner of the EM Forster Award Marina Carr writes Thomas McDonagh, and winner of the Prix Litteraire Zepter for Novel of the Year Joseph O’Connor writes Joseph Mary Plunkett.

Each monologue brings the audience into the innermost thoughts of the protagonists, encapsulating the thoughts and emotional turmoil that these people must have experienced as they were sending out commands, lying in Kilmainham Gaol, facing the firing squad and ultimately being airbrushed out of public view and leaving a legacy that would haunt future generations.

This unique work drew great interest and critical praise when it first ran in Kilmainham Gaol, presenting an opportunity for intellectual discourse around the signatories of the proclamation that goes well beyond the circumstances of the Rising and places them in the wider cultural context. Now audiences who missed it the first time around have another chance to capture this fascinating work at the Olympia Theatre this October. www.olympia.ie

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19/08/2014 17:28

The Beauty Queen at the Gaiety Theatre To mark the twentieth anniversary of its debut, Druid theatre company will stage Martin McDonagh’s The Beauty Queen of Leenane at the Gaiety Theatre from 18 to 29 October. The first in McDonagh’s Leenane Trilogy, the play was a resounding success during its initial run, transferring to the West End and Broadway and winning several Tony Awards. Now a new production is set for the irish and international stage, with a stellar cast including Marie Mullen, Aisling O'Sullivan, Marty Rea and Aaron Monaghan, directed by Garry Hynes.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

of Leenane Set in the mountains of Connemara, the play tells the story of Maureen Folan - a lonely spinster in her early 40s - who lives with her aging, manipulative mother Mag. Maureen’s mother’s interference in her first and possibly last romance sets in motion a chain of events that are as tragically funny as they are horrific.

Debuting in Galway in 1996 The Beauty Queen of Leenane quickly became one of the most successful Irish plays of recent times, winning audiences over throughout the world and becoming the toast of the New York theatre scene.

“It's thrilling to bring The Beauty Queen to life again, two decades on," said Garry Hynes. "The first outing of the production in 1996 took the world by storm and was a real whirlwind for Druid. Our audiences still speak about that experience. We're really looking forward to revisiting it with them and having a new generation experience the production for the first time."

A founding member of Druid, Hynes has directed many of their productions,

including Waiting for Godot, Big Maggie, DruidShakespeare, The Cripple of Inishmaan and DruidSynge. In 1998 she became the first woman to ever win the Tony Award for Best Direction for The Beauty Queen of Leenane.

Marie Mullen received a Tony Award the same year for her role as Maureen in the original production and now returns twenty years later, this time taking on the role of Maureen’s mother, Mag. Mullen is also a founding member and has received numerous awards and critical acclaim for her roles in Druid productions, including Long Day’s Journey Into Night and DruidSynge.

Aisling O’Sullivan will play Maureen. Widely acclaimed for her recent performance in Big Maggie, O’Sullivan has a host of film, television and theatre credits to her name.

She has appeared on RTE’s The Clinic and Raw, as well as in Martin McDonagh’s Oscar-winning short film Six Shooter. She has also appeared in The Playboy of the Western World at the Almeida Theatre in London, The Duchess of Malfi at the Barbican

Theatre, Marble, Lay Me Down Softly, The Cavalcaders and Famine in the Abbey Theatre.

Most recently seen in the much-lauded Waiting for Godot on its Irish tour this summer, Aaron Monaghan and Marty Rea complete this fantastic quartet of players.

Rea scooped the Irish Times Irish Theatre Award for Best Actor for his portrayal of Richard II in DruidShakespeare last year, while Aaron is no stranger to the Druid stage, having won several awards for his role as Cripple Billy in Druid’s The Cripple of Inishmaan.

Having won worldwide acclaim on its initial run, The Beauty Queen of Leenane looks set to be equally successful this time around, in the hands of a multi-award winning team.

The production is set to embark on a coast to coast US tour and play at the prestigious Hong Kong Arts Festival but first it will wow audiences in the Gaiety Theatre. Make sure you book your tickets early as demand is sure to be high for this very special production. www.gaietytheatre.ie

October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Minding Frankie by Maeve Binchy

Adapted for the stage by Shay Linehan, Minding Frankie is a family love story, full of Maeve Binchy’s trademark wisdom, warmth and humour. Noel Lynch is a man struggling with an alcohol addiction who takes a call from Stella, a woman he had a one night stand with. Stella is pregnant with his child but also dying from cancer. Noel must prove to social worker Moira Tierney that he is up to the task of being both a mother and a father to his baby.

heir to her musical throne, Jackie Day, returns from America with a new girlfriend in tow, resentments simmer. Will Jackie save the family from financial ruin with the gift of a song? And can Irene keep the family together?

6 October - 19 November Tel: 01 8872200 Also at The Abbey this month; The Remains of Maisie Duggan (26 September - 29 October).

The Gate Theatre The Father

19 - 22 October Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also in the Mermaid Arts Centre this month; Love and Friendship (3 - 4 October), Al Porter At Large (6 October), Paul Howard (7 October), Jack L (8 October), Embrace of the Serpent (10 October), Barry Lyndon (13 October), The Happy Pear (14 October), Saturday Night Fever (15 October), Mon Roi (17 October), Ger Carey Live (18 October), Men and Chicken (24 October), Danny O’Brien - Ah Jaysus! (27 October), Sonamus (28 October), Doug Allan - In The Company of Giants (29 October) and Carrie (31 October).

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre The Commitments

After a phenomenally successful two year run on the West End in London, The Commitments comes back to where it all began for its Irish premiere. Adapted from the book by Roddy Doyle, The Commitments tells the story of Jimmy Rabbitte, a young working class music fan who shapes a motley group of young musicians into the best soul band Dublin has ever seen. Featuring soul classics including Night Train, Try A Little Tenderness and Mustang Sally.

12 - 29 October Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also in the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre this month; A Midsummer Night’s Dream (28 September - 1 October), An Audience with Sir Michael Parkinson (2 October), The Rocky Horror Show (3 - 8 October) and DiVISION, RTÉ 2FM and the RTÉ Concert Orchestra presents Jeff Mills (30 October).

Written by Florian Zeller - one of the hottest literary talents in France - this black comedy tells the story of Andre, a retired dancer living with his adult daughter Anne and her husband. Or is he a retired engineer receiving visits from Anne? Why are there strangers in his room? And where has he put his watch?

8 September - 22 October Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 Also at The Gate this month; Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? (26 October - 12 November).

National Concert Hall

The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland.

Highlights this month include; The Bartok Project (no. 1) (2 October), Glenn Miller Orchestra (6 October), The John Lynch Chamber Music Project (12 October), Dublin’s Theatre Royal, Remembered (14 October), Carmen by Bizet (18 October), Aled Jones - How Great Thou Art (22 October), The Bootleg Beatles with their Orchestra (24 October) and Dracula Live (29 October). www.nch.ie

The Gaiety Theatre

The Beauty Queen of Leenane

The Abbey Theatre Donegal

Donegal, a musical play by Frank McGuinness receives its world premiere at the Abbey this month. The Day family are Irish country music royalty and Irene is their queen. Her relatives are completely dependent on her success but her star is fading fast. When the

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

On the twentieth anniversary of its debut, Druid bring the brilliantly subversive The Beauty Queen of Leenane to the Gaiety. Set in the mountains of Connemara, Maureen Folan is a plain and lonely woman in her early 40s, who lives with her manipulative and aging mother, Mag. When her mother interferes in

Maureen's first and potentially last romantic relationship, it sets in motion a chain of events that are as tragically funny as they are horrific.

18 - 29 October Tel: 0818 719 388.

Also in The Gaiety this month; Mozart’s Don Giovanni (29 September - 2 October) and The Seagull (5 - 16 October).

The Olympia Theatre Signatories

Having received its world premiere at Kilmainham Gaol for the anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising, this recently commissioned theatre piece (by UCD) sees these eight worldclass Irish writers (Emma Donoghue, Thomas Kilroy, Hugo Hamilton, Frank McGuinness, Rachel Fehily, Eilis Ni Dhuibhne, Marina Carr and Joseph O’Connor) present the seven signatories of the Irish Proclamation, along with Nurse Elizabeth O’Farrell who delivered the surrender in the Easter Rising of 1916.

Performed in a series of monologues, this production brings the audience into their innermost thoughts, as each writer presents an artistic response to the eight characters – sending out commands, lying in Kilmainham Gaol, facing the firing squad and ultimately being airbrushed out of public view and leaving a legacy to haunt future generations.

4 - 8 October Also in the Olympia this month; Lennon: Through A Glass Onion (3 October), Ross Noble (15 October), Starman - A David Bowie Celebration (16 October), The Next Step (18 October), Welcome to Night Vale (20 October), The Riptide Movement (21 October), Mick Flannery (22 October), Bamboo (24 October), Birdy (25 - 26 October), James Blake (27 October), All Tvvins (28 October), Glass Animals (29 October), Le Galaxie (30 October) and KT Tunstall (31 October).

Smock Alley Theatre The Quare Fellow

Brendan Behan’s seminal play The Quare Fellow comes to Smock Alley. Set in Mountjoy Prison during the early 1950s, the play follows the events that unfold in the hours leading up to an execution by hanging. Told with Behan’s typical humour and depth and drawing on his own prison experiences, the audience are drawn inside the walls of the prison and the minds of the characters as they await the final echoing knell of the auld triangle.

18 - 22 October Also at Smock Alley this month; Death At Intervals (5 - 8 October) and Normal (25 October - 5 November). www.smockalley.com Tel: 01 6770014

Dublin Theatre tival Fes

Visitors to Dublin can expect 18 days and nights of exceptional theatre when the Dublin Theatre Festival returns to the city from 29 September to 16 October. Now in its 59th year, the Dublin Theatre Festival is designed to appeal to people of all ages, whether they are seasoned theatre goers or have never experienced the theatre before.

As always, the festival showcases the diversity of contemporary theatre - with drama, opera, dance, performance art, documentary theatre and film all featuring at this year’s event.

“Over the last six decades, Dublin Theatre Festival has developed a very strong reputation for showcasing the best of Irish and international stage productions,” said Minister for Arts, Heritage, Regional, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs Heather Humphreys at the launch of this year’s festival. “Dublin Theatre Festival is a very important part of the capital’s cultural calendar and helps to secure Dublin’s status as a hub of artistic talent and creativity”.

Artistic Director Willie White added: “The programme is aimed at all ages and devised to appeal to those attending for the very first time as well as to seasoned theatre goers.

We set out each year to make the best festival possible that feels authentically ‘of Dublin’, presenting the city’s vibrant theatre scene, complemented by a keen international perspective”.

This year’s festival will open at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre with a fresh new production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Shakespeare’s comedy will receive a gleefully fresh take from Lyric Hammersmith and Filter Theatre from the UK. Expect spontaneous bursts of song, lycra-clad superheroes, Nerf guns and epic food fights, all backed by a live band channelling everything from Barry White to The Ramones, doo-wop and grunge in this fun and lively adaptation.

Mozart’s Don Giovanni receives a reimagining thanks to Roddy Doyle, whose translation of the opera will premiere at the Gaiety Theatre. One of the most visceral and thrilling operas of all time, this gripping story of guilt, love regret and death will be served up with a uniquely Dublin flavour thanks to Doyle’s unique interpretation.

The Abbey Theatre will present two world premieres over the course of the festival. On the Peacock stage is The Remains of Maisie Duggan, an explosive new play from Carmel Winters. Only Maisie’s funeral would bring her daughter Kathleen back to Ireland. But it’s a curious corpse that greets Kathleen on her arrival and old family feuds

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

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The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

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Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic!

Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

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Dublin Theatre tival Fes

soon surface in this riotous dark comedy. On the Abbey stage, Donegal, a musical about family and country music, written by Frank McGuinness with music by Kevin Doherty will receive its world premiere.

Una McKevitt blends fiction and reality in Alien Documentary. Starring PJ Gallagher, Molly O’Mahony and James Scales embodying characters who, through their everyday conversations and the personal histories they share, demonstrate the power of companionship and courage.

The Last Siren is an experimental opera by Ian Wilson that embraces improvisation and electronica. Centring on a hermit-like woman who believes that she is the last of the Sirens, it stars acclaimed Irish singer and Jazz FM’s Vocalist of the Year Lauren Kinsella with soundscape provided by Ireland’s leading sound art collective The Quiet Club (Danny McCarthy and Mick O’Shea).

Throughout the duration of the festival there will be a number of panel discussions, critical events and In Development showcases at Festival+. In recent years the festival has celebrated greats of Irish theatre such as Tom Murphy and Brian Friel, and this year the life and work of Sinead Cusack will be honoured at the Dublin Theatre Festival Gala Night.

For younger audiences the festival has once again teamed up with The Ark to present a number of internationally acclaimed works for children. This year’s Theatre for Children includes work from Mary-Francis Doherty in association with Young at Art (UK), Junges Ensemble Stuttgart (JES) (Germany) and Teater Pero (Sweden). Find out what happened to Hansel and Gretel, as Johannes and Margarethe welcome you into a world full of strange tales and magical objects. Fall in love with Aston – a little dog with a very big heart – as he shows us just how valuable even the smallest object can be, or share Katie’s excitement (and anxiety) as she turns 12 and faces the life-changing move to secondary school.

Whether you’re young or old, a seasoned theatre regular or have never set foot in a theatre before but have always been curious to find out what it’s all about, this year’s Dublin Theatre Festival has something for everyone to enjoy. www.dublintheatrefestival.com

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Visit the Book Of Kells in Trinity College and then take the two minute walk to visit us on Dawson Street.

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St Michans

by Pat Liddy

Cairo has its burial chambers and pharaonic mummies, Rome its noble tombs and subterranean catacombs but Dublin has its very own haunting and supposedly haunted crypts of St Michan’s Church! First built by the Vikings in the 11th century as the parish church for their suburb on the northern banks of the River Liffey, St Michan’s has seen much rebuilding and restoration especially in the 12th, 16th and 19th centuries.

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The rich and famous have prayed here, the orator Edmund Burke was baptised here and George Frederic Handel played on its then top-of-the-range organ in the 1740s (the organ is still here and in working order). But its most significant claim to fame today are the ancient burial crypts which lie beneath the noble edifice. Open for public tours, visitors are brought carefully down uneven well-worn stone steps into the gloom of two of the atmospheric underground passages.

Lining both sides of each crypt are the vaulted chambers of the wealthy and distinguished of a past era. Aristocracy are neighbours to merchants, clergy and respectable citizens lie next door to scoundrels and executed rebels. The Sheares brothers, leaders of the abortive 1798 rebellion, lie side by side, mercifully in their coffins, as the execution order (which is shown beside them) called for hanging, drawing and quartering! The one thing the shrivelled reposed have in common with each other is that they are all in a state of near

perfect mummification. This amazing fact was brought about not by human intervention but by the super-dry atmosphere of the crypts and perhaps also by the slow release of methane gas from the deep remains of a primeval oak forest that used to grow around here.

Coffins placed in one chamber have virtually fallen apart and the preserved remains of five humans are revealed in all their mummified glory. While still of course respecting them as deceased people the guide regales onlookers with fascinating stories of each recumbent. Far from us to spoil the surprise in store for you should you choose to visit.

The crypts are open Monday-Friday 1 November – 16 March 12.30 -15.30 and 17 March – 31 October 10.00 – 12.45 & 14.00 – 16.30. Saturday (all year round) 10.00 – 12.45.

The church may also be closed on public holidays and at other times at short notice. www.cathedralgroupdublin.ie

The Corn Exchange and Dublin Theatre Festival

The Seagull

by Anton Chekhov in a new version

by Michael West and Annie Ryan – Oct 5–16, Gaiety Theatre Cast includes Stephen Brennan, Derbhle Crotty, Imogen Doel, Anna Healy, Genevieve Hulme-Beaman, Rory Keenan, Louis Lovett, Jane McGrath, Stephen Mullan Tickets from €15 on sale now dublintheatrefestival.com | +353 1 677 8899

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Pallet Pizza

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Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Camden Kitchen

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin.

41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard.

Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.

81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 1026 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Pacino’s

Ideally situated on Suffolk Street, just off Grafton Street and opposite Trinity College, Pacino’s offers authentic Italian food in an old world vibe of stylish brickwork, wooden floors and soft lighting. The restaurant offers authentic, rustic Italian cooking with ingredients sourced from only the best local butchers, fishmongers and artisan producers.

18 Suffolk Street Dublin 2 01 677 5651 www.pacinos.ie

Zaragoza

The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines.

Open Mon-Sun 12noon - Midnight (last orders) 18 William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 4020 www.zaragozadublin.com

The Larder Restaurant & Brewhouse

Asador

La Resérve Brasserie

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you.

La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

Kafka Restaurant An oasis of quality, The Larder offer excellent Brunch, Lunch and Evening menus made from the highest quality, locally sourced ingredients.

These dishes are finished off with herbs grown in their own walled garden and complimented by their range of own brand beers. The meal can then be topped off with their own brand coffee; Dublin Roaster.

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

8 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 633 3581 info@thelarder.ie www.thelarder.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Zaytoon

Chez Max

Corfu Greek Restaurant

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin!

Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

Thornton’s Restaurant

Salamanca

This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.

Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008

The Blind Pig

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie

18

Taco Taco

Perfect for brunch or a casual evening meal, Taco Taco is sure to get your taste buds tingling. They have a range of specials on offer, such as Chargrilled Jerk Chicken for two with a range of sides for €29.95 on Sunday nights and Super Nacho Happy Hour from 5pm to 6.30pm from Monday to Sunday. While you’re there, make sure you sample some of their amazing cocktails, such as Whiskey Smash, Brunch Sour or Mojito.

14 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 083 449 9584 www.tacotacodublin.com

La Ruelle Wine Bar

Eatokyo

Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them?

Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

Eatokyo, in the heart of Dublin City Centre with a great view of the Ha’Penny Bridge, serve freshly prepared and great tasting Japanese cuisine. Offering good food at great value in the Temple Bar area, their lunch special is available between 12pm to 5pm from only €8.50 while their early bird menu is available from just €19.90.

Tel: 085 874 7901 www.theblindpig.ie reservations@theblindpig.ie

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

51 Wellington Quay, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 534 8576 www.eatokyo.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Recommended Pubs in Leinster music. The welcoming staff offer a range of premium Irish whiskeys and if whiskey isn’t your thing then you have another great option. Dice Bar brew their own beers; the delicious Revolution Red and Augustine With so much choice and a relaxed setting, Dice Bar warrants many return visits. Open from 3pm daily.

57 The Headline

Situated only a short walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral and Teeling Whiskey Distillery, 57 The Headline is the ideal spot to sample the best of Irish Craft Beers and Whiskeys.

With 24 taps dedicated to the best of Irish and International beers, you won’t be stuck for choice. They offer Beer tasting trays from 3 to 9 choices and 5 Whiskey trays. They also serve the best bar food in Dublin 8 and you won’t be paying city centre prices. Visit their website for all products, opening times and more.

Clanbrassil St. Lower, Dublin 8 Tel: 01 532 0279 www.57theheadline.ie

93-94 Benburb Street Tel: 01 633 3936 www.thatsitdublin.com

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If

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you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē of theinto best in aDublin Sinboys É isand strolling themusicians celt is like taking trip to thethen west, play chailíní payfor attention andto dance definitely the place be.along the way to the early light

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnån O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey.

Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

the celt

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Doheny & Nesbitt’s

14 -15 Ormond Quay ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037

One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.

Tap House

Be prepared to enter into the world of true beer artistry, where friendly knowledgeable staff will guide you to that perfect beverage, served in the especially designed Munique glass, which optimises the aroma, retaining carbonation and cooling until the last drop.

With possibly finest bar food and cocktails in town, your whole party will be catered for in this wonderfully unique establishment.

60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 491 3436. www.taphouse.ie

5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 2945

The Celt

Dice Bar

Situated on the corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street, near Smithfield Square, at Dice Bar they strive for three things – great drinks, great staff and great

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Grogan’s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

19

Inside Outside

by Isobel Egan at Gallery Zozimus

E

ver since reading The Poetics of Space by Gaston Bachelard as a child, artist Isobel Egan has been fascinated by the idea of architecture, space, and the interrelationships between us and the buildings we inhabit. These ideas are explored in her exciting new exhibition Inside Outside, which opens on 6 October in Gallery Zozimus on Francis Street in Dublin and runs until 24 October.

love playing with that idea in my work.”

Inside Outside is an exhibition of large-scale wall mounted installations and sculptures comprising of a series of geometric forms that create more complex structures. Working exclusively with porcelain, with its translucent and delicate paper-like nature, Isobel invites the viewer to look beyond the surface and discover more intimate spaces.

Isobel Egan graduated in 2005 with a Masters of Arts, Design, Ceramics from the National College of Art and Design, Dublin. Over the years, she has received many awards for her work including the Taylor Art Award from the Royal Dublin Society in 1999, the Golden Fleece Award (merit) in 2006 and the Visual Art Bursary Award. In 2006, she represented Ireland at the European Ceramics Context in Borholm, Denmark.

“I consider my work to be micro pieces of architecture,” she says. “They’re environments for nurturing the imagination and through my work, I express ideas about the fragility of life, our perception of space and memory.”

“I’ve always been inspired by architecture, walking into particular spaces, how they affect us as individuals, the idea of looking deeper into a piece,” she says of her latest exhibition. “I

20

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Isobel has been working with porcelain for over ten years and enjoys the challenges of using the material. It is also perfect for transmitting her ideas of space and imagination. “It’s translucent so as a material, it could have a little opening and it could actually look pitch black inside or you can create these different tones and shadows within a piece,” she says.

These different tones and shadows allow the viewer to gain different perspectives and gain an appreciation of space while firing the imagination. “The idea when I make a piece is to invite somebody to take a moment to contemplate,” she explains.

Isobel has also been selected for a commission through the joint Purchase Scheme for the National Collection of Contemporary Applied Art with the National Museum of Ireland and Design and Crafts Council of Ireland. This will go on permanent exhibition in The National Museum in Collins Barracks and was launched late last month.

This month sees the launch of her exciting exhibition at Gallery Zozimus and we can highly recommend a trip to see her thought provoking work. Inside Outside will be opened by Susan Zelouf, designer and owner of Zelouf & Bell and writer for The Gloss magazine at 6pm on 6 October. www.galleryzozimus.ie

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Recommended Shopping Irish Linen House

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland.

Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

Mitchell & Son

Mitchell & Son have been trading in Dublin since the 19th century and are the only wine company in Ireland that is run by descendants of its founder. They offer high quality wine, champagne and spirits from all over the world, including their Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskey, as well as Riedel Glassware. They also run wine appreciation courses that teach you how to get the best from your bottle of wine and give you an understanding of the Irish wine market.

Best prices on Irish Aran Sweaters Since 1986 The Sweater Shop is a family run business offering a large selection of quality Irish Aran sweaters at reasonable prices, as well as fine merino and cashmere for men, women and children.

They also stock a range of caps, scarves and accessories to suit all budgets, making any of their Dublin, Kilkenny, or Galway shops the perfect place to shop for truly authentic Irish gifts.

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 Abbeygate Street, Galway High Street, Kilkenny Tel: 01 6712292 www.sweatershop.com

Tights Department

Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

CHQ, IFSC, Dublin 1, 01 612 5540 54 Glasthule Rd. Sandycove, Co. Dublin 01 230 2301 www.mitchellandson.com

25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Jam Art Factory

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 22

The Sweater Shop

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands and Tax Free shopping to non EU residents.

53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Daylemonn Designs

Daylemonn Designs are a family run business with over 25 years experience in interior design and design retail. The company's conceptual basis and ethos is largely influenced by the Dutch model (where the family originate from) of specialist interior boutiques. With a vast and varied knowledge in interior design, they provide a professional service to all of their clients, both nationally and internationally.

At their Clonmel and Dublin stores, they focus on retailing an extensive range of furniture, soft furnishings, giftware and accessories. They run a comprehensive consultancy service from their design studio where they also house a large collection of fabrics and wallpapers. Their dedicated design team is always on hand for consultation and advice.

60 Camden Street, Dublin 2 www.daylemonndesigns.com info@daylemonndesigns.com +353 (0)1 4458725 Davis Road, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary +353 (0)86 1893079

The Kilkenny Shop

The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products; from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce.

6 Nassau Street Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier whiskey shop has become a mecca for whiskey lovers since it first opened in 2003. They have daily whiskey tastings and the knowledgeable and experienced staff are always on hand to offer their expert advice and guidance. If you’re travelling, the staff are happy to wrap your purchases in protective wrapping and can arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products.

The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

The Design House

27 - 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 9744 / 01 675 9768 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Cows Lane Designer Studio

Cows Lane Designer Studio is a colourful, fun retail space run by a group of independent designers and makers. With an eclectic mix of handcrafted, Irish designs including textiles, knitwear, jewellery, millinery, ceramics, prints, homewares and more, there is something for everyone. The perfect place to browse and be inspired!

Unit 2, Essex Street West, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8. Tel: 01 679 8366 Info@clds.ie www.cowslanedesignerstudio.ie

“The Design House” is a boutique & design Hub, in the city centre. It is based in a fabulous Georgian building; they offer cutting edge fashion, jewellery, bridal and a variety of crafts all in the one building.

The hallways of their building also host an artist’s gallery. The list of designers who call “The Design house” home has grown steadily since they opened.

They are also the creative home to several in-house designers, that work from 2 floors of shared studio space and professional fashion workrooms .

The concept behind their enterprise is to bring designers, craftspeople and artists together under one roof and to offer the customer a wide array of high quality products, all at varied price points and services such as their bespoke service and café.

43 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6799283 www.thedesignhouse.ie

Aran Sweater Market

Celebrating the long and fascinating history of Aran Knitwear, the Aran Sweater Market offers the perfect souvenir of your Irish Journey. With roots in Inis Mor, the very centre of where Aran craft first began, you can also find the brand in Dublin’s Grafton Street and Killarney, Co. Kerry, as well as its home on the Aran Islands. Shoppers can look forward to a unique shopping experience with a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear and gifts available. The Aran Sweater Market brand offers a large range of Aran and Celtic inspired knitwear for all the family. www.AranSweaterMarket.com

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands when you visit this store.

They offer the finest quality, waterproof Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure from €425 as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

Green Gallery

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 608 8608 www.franciscampelli.com

For over 20 years The Green Gallery, on the top floor of St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, has led the way in Dublin’s contemporary art market.

Here you will find original, quality works of art from emerging, established and international artists. No trip to Stephen’s Green is complete without visiting this unique gallery. Open 7 days.

Mention Travel Ireland Magazine to avail of a 10% discount.

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Top Floor, St Stephen’s Green Centre Dublin 2 Tel: 0851988441 www.greengallery.ie

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com

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Explore Leinster

Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens

by National Geographic and is one of the mustsee tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama. The Gardens stretch over 47 acres and offer visitors a sublime blend of formal gardens, sweeping terraces, statues and ornamental lakes, secret hollows and rambling walks. Voted in the Top Ten Houses in the World by Lonely Planet, Powerscourt House features a range of artisan stores and the Avoca Terrace Café. Also located on Powerscourt Estate are two championship Golf Courses, Ireland’s Highest Waterfall and the Powerscourt Hotel.

W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried.

Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours.

A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance.

Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures.

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes.

The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule.

Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

The Old Jameson Distillery

The Old Jameson Distillery has temporarily closed its doors until March 2017 for A new makeover and It promises to be nothing short of spectacular upon reopening so watch this space. Its business as usual at the Jameson Experience in Cork (see explore munster).

Revolution 1916 at The Ambassador Event Centre This original and authentic exhibition will give a fascinating insight into the 1916 Rising and coincides with the Centenary Celebrations that will be taking place all over the country. The exhibition features the largest private collection of 1916 artefacts, which have been kindly donated by the Irish Volunteers Commemorative Organisation. There will be over 500 items on display, including an original 1916 Proclamation, uniforms from the Irish Volunteers, Cumann na mBan and na Fianna, 1916 weapons including Howth Mausers, German Lugers, a Peter the Painter C96 machine pistol favoured by Patrick Pearse, French Bayonets and even the actual door handle of the G.P.O. from 1916. Ends 15th Oct. www.ambassadordublin.com

Loughcrew Estate Whether you’re up for adventure, love history or just fancy a walk through some tranquil gardens, Loughcrew has something for you. Wander through the gardens and enjoy the beautiful sculptures of Ann Hughes, or visit their boutique coffee shop.

Those feeling more adventurous can visit the Adventure Centre (which has been rated as the number 1 Adventure Centre in Ireland on Trip Advisor) and have a go on their famous zipline, which is open in July and August.

Loughcrew Estate, Loughcrew, Oldcastle, Co Meath. www.loughcrew.com

GROGANS 15 South William Street Telephone 01 6779320 Host to a continuous changing art exhibition 24

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Hard Working

Class Heroes

I

f it’s music you’re looking for, then look no further than Hard Working Class Heroes, which returns to venues across Dublin from 6 to 8 October. The festival showcases emerging Irish acts and this year 100 artists will take to Dublin’s stages and serve up a feast of fantastic music in some terrific venues.

Hard Working Class Heroes takes you on a jaunt through some of Dublin’s most exciting and interesting gig spaces.

There will be gigs at the creative hub, the Chocolate Factory on Kings Inn Street, as well as the hidden Japanese gem Tengu.

On Friday and Saturday night of the festival the iconic City Hall will play host to a special selection of stripped back performances from artists on the cutting edge of Irish music. There are also a number of exciting developments at this year’s festival.

As part of the start of a three year project to build audiences between Ireland and Iceland, two Icelandic bands (Wesen and aYia) will perform at the festival. They will be joined by a host of top Irish acts, many of whom are surely destined for big things in the years to come. Loah, a self-described ‘artsoul’ singer of Sierra Leone and Irish heritage and former pharmacist

from South Dublin has been tipped for big things. The amazing drummer and one-man-band experience Jeremy Hickey, known as R.S.A.G., always puts on a spectacular show that is not to be missed, while singer-songwriter Tara Lee may be already known to international audiences for her supporting role on the Gillian Anderson TV series, The Fall but she is also building up a promising music career. They will be joined by the likes of Rusangano Family, Wyvern Lingo, Talos,

Bitch Falcon and Maria Kelly.

Another exciting addition to the festival this year is the Hard Working Class Heroes Convention. This free convention runs in the Chocolate Factory on the same days as the festival. It is the biggest gathering of Irish and international music makers and doers in the country this year, with 1,300 speed sessions and 22 workshops and conversations facilitating exchanges between artists and the music business. There will be discussions and conversations around such issues as changes in the industry, how artists and businesses are adapting to the new environment and what fans make of all this change. There will also be three days of how-to workshops covering digital, social media, videos, visuals and much more. It’s perfect for aspiring musicians or anyone with an interest in how the music business works.

Hard Working Class Heroes takes place in the Workman’s Club, Wigwam, The Chocolate Factory, Tengu, The Hub @ Mez and City Hall. At only €45 for the entire weekend, it’s not only a great festival but great value too and the perfect opportunity to see what Ireland’s emerging musical talent has to offer. www.hwch.net

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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

Blarney Castle

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Recommended Pubs in Munster Dick Mack’s

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Jack Meades (under the bridge)

An Brog

O’Neill’s Bar

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.

Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork Tel: 021 427 0074

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.

The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry.

Tel: 064 663 1037

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860.

But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

O’Neill’s Bar/Mol’s Restaurant is located at the top of the town of Tramore. It’s one of the original family owned and run, bar & restaurants in Tramore. With its long standing tradition in sport it’s no wonder this bar is the main sports bar in the town. Since its renovation in 2015 the bar has gone from strength to strength with now one of the most comfortable and accommodating smoking rooms in the country.

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Live music every Thursday to Sunday ensures that your visit will be one you won’t forget. They also have a top class restaurant adjacent to the bar which serves excellent cuisine hosting a range of dishes sourced locally with the best Waterford has to offer

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant.

So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.

O’Neills Bar, Summerhill, Tramore, Co.Waterford

3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Strand Inn

fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

The Smuggler’s Inn

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort was awarded 2AA Rosettes in 2001 and currently continues this elite standard further confirmed with multiple awards and its review in the 2015 Michelin Guide. With its warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls, ornate ceiling, and further complemented by an extensive wine cellar and exciting seasonal menus it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Using the finest local produce, gifted head chef Michael Thomas and his culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience.

Waterford Castle, The Island, Co. Waterford Tel: 051 878203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com/munsterroom-restaurant

Out of the Blue

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Copper Hen

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience.

For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

The Cliff Restaurant The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced.

Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on.

Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch.

Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

The Cliff Restaurant is a new addition to The Strand Inn. The Cliff is a relaxed, casual affair serving brunch from 1pm, and is open for food until 9pm. The Cliff contains a bar and two dining rooms. Downstairs is kid friendly, while upstairs is kid free making it the perfect place for both a family occasion or an evening meal with friends. The menu is wide ranging and includes pizzas, pastas, great salads and burgers, as well as delicious steaks.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford Tel: 051 383 839 October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Kerry Film Festival

T

he Kerry Film Festival returns to the scenic town of Killarney for its 17th edition from 19 to 23 October. As always, there’s an excellent programme in store with Irish and international films heavily featured, including the Irish premiere of two excellent music documentaries, a curated programme of international short films, events and the world premiere of two Kerry features - Making It and Brackenmore - which open and close the festival.

Filmed mainly in Kerry, Brackenmore tells the story of Kate, who returns to her ancestral home of Brackenmore when her uncle dies. She soon rediscovers her long neglected roots but the longer she stays in Brackenmore the more she begins to realise that things may not be quite what they seem and things begin to get even more sinister in this suspenseful thriller that weaves together the exploration of the occult with complex human relationships.

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Making It is a feature length comedy filmed around Tralee and Listowel. Family man Mike McMahon suddenly loses his job. Struggling to find work, he decides to use the digital camera that he received in lieu of redundancy to make a gritty cops and robbers film. However, his lofty ambitions and non-existent budget lead to many blunders and he soon finds himself in trouble with both sides of the law.

As well as these two fantastic Kerry based films, there will be another three Irish premieres of celebrated feature films, including A Good Wife, which opened in Sundance this year. The festival has always had a strong tradition of focussing on music documentaries and this year We Are X and Paul Thomas Anderson’s Junun will receive their Irish premieres at the festival. There is also the Kerry premiere of Mattress Men with director Colm Quinn in attendance and a documentary about Ken Loach, Versus.

With such a diverse range of films on offer there is sure to be something to cater to every taste.

Short film has always played an important role in the festival and this year a new element to the festival has been introduced.

The Short Film Market is aimed at emerging and experienced filmmakers. With panel discussions, masterclasses, Q & A sessions and a special focus on the diaspora in the Irish International Film Festival panel. This event will explore the short film on the national and international stage and is a must for any aspiring filmmaker.

The popular town of Killarney will be even busier than usual as the Kerry Film Festival returns once again. It’s perfect for filmmakers, aspiring filmmakers or people that just love high quality, diverse filmmaking in a beautiful setting. www.kerryfilmfestival.com

Celebrate Cork’s

Maritime Heritage

C

at Cobh Heritage Centre

obh Heritage Centre's Exhibition tells the story of Irish Emigration worldwide.

Now that story is set to be told in even further depth thanks to an expansion granted to Fáilte Ireland as part of Ireland's Ancient East capital grant scheme.

The expanded Exhibition brings visitors on an exciting journey through the rich maritime history of Cobh and the harbour of Cork. Visitors will learn about the fortification of the harbour; how and why forts such as Spike, Camden and Haulbowline were constructed. The rarely heard story of the forgotten Irish who were transported to the Caribbean as servants and forced labour in Cromwellian times is also included in the exhibition.

The new addition to the Exhibition also has multi-lingual self-guided audio tours in French, German, Dutch, Italian and Spanish and is contributing to making Cobh Heritage Centre a world class experience and a memorable and educational voyage through Irish History and culture.

This new development follows hot

on the heels of a major upgrade of the Centre in 2012 for the Titanic 100 commemorations and again in 2015 for the Lusitania 100 commemorations.

Recent visitors to the Centre have been hugely impressed with the enhanced Exhibition describing it as, "Simply superb, wonderfully educational and captivating" and a "Great interactive exhibition with poignant and memorable stories bringing it all to life”.

"The improvements to the exhibition have greatly enhanced our visitors’ overall understanding of, not only the story of Irish Emigration, but the rich maritime history of Cobh and the harbour area,” says Jack Walsh, General Manager of the Centre.

“The availability of multilingual audio for our non-English speaking visitors are a major improvement and we have already seen a large increase in visitors especially from Germany and Holland this summer".

Mr Walsh also expressed his gratitude to Fáilte Ireland - Ireland's Ancient East, for their financial assistance with the project, as well as their ongoing support and encouragement. “We are exceptionally proud to have an Exhibition that entertains,

educates and enthuses our visitors and one that rivals any attraction anywhere in Ireland,” he added.

The informative and emotive story of Irish Emigration told at Cobh Heritage Centre is not to be missed - from Virginia to Barbados, from Canada to Australia, this story expands to the four corners of the world. This is a day out that will entertain, inform and enthuse the whole family and offer fascinating insight into one of the most interesting times in Irish history.

The Centre is open 7 days a week, year round. For opening times, prices and more see www.cobhheritage.com

Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Jameson Experience, Midleton Co.Cork

The Hunt Museum

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com 32

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The Ring of Kerry (Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience.

The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site.

Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Ring of Kerry

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912.

The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Sullivan’s Brewing Company

W

hen parent company Diageo relocated the Smithwick’s brand to Dublin in 2014, the city of Kilkenny found itself without a commercial brewery for the first time in 800 years. The Smithwick family have a long and proud history of brewing in the city and now they have resurrected the Sullivan’s Brewing Company brand to bring brewing back to Kilkenny with the opening of their Taproom, visitor centre and microbrewery on John Street in the middle of the city.

“The Sullivan’s family tradition of brewing stems back to 1702 when they opened their doors on James Street to become Kilkenny’s first commercial brewery. We’ve made it our mission to resurrect the lost art of real Irish brewing in its rightful home – Kilkenny,” says Paul Smithwick, chairman of Sullivan’s Brewing Company.

The Smithwick and Sullivan families, despite being business competitors, were always close, however the Sullivan company collapsed when an errant member of the family bet the entire business on a horse race and lost in 1918. The Smithwick family rescued the workforce and subsumed them into their own brewery.

They have since retained the rights to the Sullivan Brewing name and have now brought it back with the opening of this beautiful Taphouse and the launch of their first beer, Maltings Red Ale. As you walk into the Taphouse, you are greeted by a stunning mural that charts the history of brewing in Kilkenny. There is also a large

outdoor area where you can sit and enjoy your beer and some delicious food from the wood-fired oven.

And the beer itself is simply fantastic. Developed by Master Brewer Ian Hamilton, who has 35 years experience in the brewing industry, it is a refreshingly balanced, ruby tinted classic Irish ale with a depth of malt flavour giving rich biscuit and gentle caramel notes.

Traditionally brewed with only Kilkenny-grown ale malt, including three special darker malts and three varieties of hop. Fermented and matured with cask ale yeast and coupled with a no-rush approach to the brewing process, the final product is a smooth, balanced, classic ale. On top of this, Ian believes that the unrivalled quality of Kilkenny water is key to the unique flavour. Having sampled the new beer, we can confirm it really is unlike any ale on the market at the moment and looks set to be a sure-fire hit.

But don’t just take our word for it. If you’re travelling to Kilkenny, take a trip to Sullivan’s Taproom and sample the delightful Maltings Red Ale and learn all about the fascinating history of brewing in Kilkenny. A tradition that is thankfully set to continue thanks to Sullivan’s Brewing Company. www.sullivansbrewingcompany.com www.facebook.com/SullivansBrewCo

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience

On social media:

Book online at www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com and receive a 10% discount on adult tickets

www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000

October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Richard Harris Film Festival T

he Richard Harris Film Festival returns to the iconic Irish actor’s home city of Limerick from 27 to 31 October. Fully supported by the estate of Richard Harris, the festival has grown every year since its inception in 2013 and this year - along with screenings of short and feature films - visitors can enjoy acting workshops and some very special performances from Joe Jackson and Jimmy Webb, both of whom knew Harris very well.

Producer Richard Bolger’s Cardboard Gangsters will screen at the festival.

This gritty Dublin-based tale of money, power and sex stars Love/Hate’s John Connors, UFC star Cathal Pendred and singer-songwriter Damien Dempsey and is not to be missed. There will also be a reading of a new feature film - The Pirate Queen. Written by Academy Award nominated writer Shane Connaughton, this reading will be narrated by Stephen Rea along with a number of other big name guest actors.

“To me you are the keeper of the flame when it comes to my father's memory,” said Richard Harris's son Jared Harris to renowned journalist Joe Jackson, during the 2015 Richard Harris International Film Festival. This inspired Jackson to write Richard Harris Revisited – A Play in the Making, based on his 2015 PPI award nominated RTE Radio 1 series Richard Harris Revisited: The Joe Jackson Tapes. That series was based on roughly thirty hours of tapes Jackson made with Harris, between the years 1987-2000, partly for an official biography the actor asked him to write, although the book itself was never completed. Richard Harris Revisited – A Play in the Making, comprised mostly of material that has never been published or broadcast before -

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“some of it offering startling insights into Harris,” Jackson promises - gets its premiere as a public reading at this year's festival.

Jimmy Webb was another great friend of Richard Harris and he will play the Lime Tree Theatre on 29 October as part of the festival. There really is no one quite like Webb, who is said to have given the world the first existential country song, The Highwayman. Webb also wrote MacArthur Park, which was later covered by Harris.

Webb has topped the country, disco and pop charts and during the show he will look back on his time navigating fame and fortune in Los Angeles, infused with his unique humour.

No doubt there will be a few stories about the great Richard Harris thrown in too.

In partnership with SHIFT72, the festival will this year have a Video on Demand Platform that will complement the existing Festival. This new platform is part of a commitment to support the independent filmmaking community by providing more opportunities for them to delight film loving audiences and build a loyal following beyond the existing Festival window. VOD and streaming services offer independent film-makers – especially self-distributed and pre-distribution films - access to an audience that is otherwise impossible to reach.

One of the true greats of Irish acting, it’s great to see Richard Harris being celebrated in his home city at a festival that is going from strength to strength and growing every year, adding exciting innovations. The great man’s legacy is in good hands and anybody with an interest in film or Harris’ extraordinary life and career should take a trip to Limerick this month for the Richard Harris Film Festival. www.richardharrisfilmfestival.com

Artisan Food and Drink Lainey’s Handmade Foods After many years of catering and baking for friends and family, Léonie Ferguson set up her artisan food business Lainey’s Handmade Foods. She has created a range of delicious handmade chocolate biscuit cake bars, bites and slices. This is the beginning of a new range of products based on traditional family favourites. For stockists and contact information, please visit the website Kilquade, Co. Wicklow www.laineyshandmadefoods.ie

The Dublin Cookie Co.

Having initially set up in 2014, selling cookies at markets and festivals all over the country, The Dublin Cookie Co. opened their first store in the Liberties in Dublin in March 2016. Some of the mouth-watering treats on offer include sea salted caramel & toasted pecan cookies, peanut butter & chocolate chip cookies and banoffee cookie sandwiches to name but a few. These can be paired with a choice of milks, tea from Clement & Pekoe, or coffee from Coffee Culture. The perfect stop on your way to the Guinness Storehouse.

29 Thomas Street, The Liberties, Dublin 8 Tel: 083 3766401 www.thedublincookieco.com

Walsh Whiskey Distillery

Coffee House Lane

Established in 2001 by Father and Son team Stephen and Mark Bergin, Coffee House Lane select only the finest coffee beans from all over the world and roast them in small batches in their Toper Roaster. This gives each packet of Coffee House Lane a unique flavour. Available in Ardkeen Quality Foodstore, SuperValu stores across the country, as well as independent retailers, customers are also encouraged to pay them a visit and experience the roasting process for themselves. Coffee House Lane in Waterford was the site of Ireland’s very first CoffeeHouse and Ireland’s very first commercial cup of coffee in the year 1690, when John 'Aikenhead' owned the then popular establishment, and the Bergins pay tribute to him by naming one of their signature blends after him, and another after the year '1690'.

Unit 3, Kilcohan Industrial Complex, Kilcohan, Waterford Phone: 1890 242628

Established in 1999 by husband and wife, Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, and located in County Carlow on the 18th century Royal Oak estate in Ireland’s Ancient East region, Walsh Whiskey Distillery is a leading independent producer of super-premium, triple-distilled, craft, Irish whiskeys – The Irishman and Writers Tears.

Set deep in the heart of barley-growing country, directly above the Barrow Valley Aquifer on the banks of the River Barrow, Royal Oak is the perfect place for creating exceptional quality whiskeys.

Walsh Whiskey Distillery, Royal Oak, County Carlow, Ireland Tel: (059) 9186653 Email: booking@walshwhiskey.com Web: www.walshwhiskey.com 36

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Longueville House

Longueville House have been producing their own cider and apple brandy for over 30 years.

They use only heritage, heirloom Michelin and Dabinett apples, grown in the orchards in Blackwater valley to produce their delicious Longueville House Cider, free of additives and preservatives. This cider is then aged four years in oak red wine casks to produce their full-bodied Apple Brandy. As well as their high quality artisan drinks, this is the ideal venue for corporate events, offering visitors distillery tours, clay pigeon shooting and luncheon.

See their Facebook page (facebook.com/ LonguevilleHouse.ie) for some great recipes, including their delicious recipe for Mulled Longueville House Cider.

Mallow, Co. Cork 022 47156 www.longuevillehouse.ie

Glenilen Farm

Resting on the banks of the River Ilen, Glenilen Farm is a family run business offering a range of delicious dairy products. The hills of Drimoleague offer rich and luscious grass to the cows on the farm, who in turn produce rich, tasty milk that is used to produce Glenilen Farm’s beautiful range of yoghurts, cream cheese, clotted cream, cheesecakes, crème fraîche and butter.

Drimoleague, Co. Cork Phone: 028 31179 www.glenilenfarm.com

The Breadski Brothers The Breadski Brothers are a dynamic trio, originally from Poland and now baking up a storm in Castlebar, Co. Mayo. These three brothers are passionate about real bread, breadmaking and ‘breaducation’. Well established within the Polish market in Ireland, they have recently begun baking for Irish taste buds and the results are astounding. Their healthy, additivefree bread range includes the award winning Rye Bread with Cranberries; one of their two slow rise sourdough breads. The Breadski Brothers also make a range of more than 40 cakes. Products are available in over 50 SuperValus, Corrib Oil stores, and more than 250 Polish stores nationwide.

Castlebar, Co. Mayo 01 960 9393, www.mmmfamilybakery.ie, www.thatbread.ie www.facebook.com/TheBreadskiBrothers

A Day in the Life of a Food Explorer

By Carl Mark O’Neill

, Carl Mark O Neill

A

s the summer gives way to autumn, I wanted to create a seasonal dessert made from some of my favourite Irish products. I wanted something that was unique and sweet yet sharp to complement the changing of the seasons. What I’ve come up with is my October Dessert, a deliciously indulgent treat made from some top quality Irish produce. It’s a delicious meringue based dessert that combines apples, mint and chocolate into a burst of flavour.

I started by peeling, coring and slicing some Iona Katy Variety Apples (Iona Fruit Farm, North county Dublin) and then shallow poaching them for five minutes. I added a Tablespoon of demerara sugar and poured about 30 ml of Longueville Apple Brandy into the pan then took a match to the mixture to allow it to caramelise.

Meanwhile I placed some Tipperary Kitchen Marvelous Meringue Pavlovas on a plate and topped with Glenilen Farm creme fraiche. I then placed the caramelised apple mixture on

top of the creme fraiche. To balance the sweetness, I grated some Cocoa Nib Chocolate from Chez Emily and garnished with some O’Hanlon’s Herb mint.

The results were amazing and the dessert was really complimented by some Móinéir strawberry wine from Wicklow Way Wines. I love combining ingredients from some of Ireland’s fantastic food and drinks producers to create these truly unique dishes.

Wine & Brandy available at Morton’s of Ranelagh & O'Briens Off licence.

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Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

CEMETERY MUSEUM CEMETERY MUSEUM & GUIDED TOURS Winner Ireland’s BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

Irish Tourism Industry Awards 2015/16 RECOGNISING SUCCESS and INNOVATION

WINNER

IRELAND’S HISTORY CARVED IN STONE

CEMETERY MUSEUM

museum and 1916 exhibition tours and re-enactments

CEMETERY MUSEUM MUSEUM CEMETERYCEMETERY MUSEUM

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY MUSEUM, FINGLAS ROAD, DUBLIN 11 PHONE 01 882 6550 MUSEUM@ GLASNEVINTRUST.IE

Recommended Pubs in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

Furey’s Pub

The Quays

Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.

Bridge St, Sligo Tel: 087 958 3080 Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

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Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Roísín Dubh

Matt Malloy’s

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2016

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Sea Road, Galway City.

Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

Ireland’s largest stockist of Designer Sunglasses If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

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Mayo

DarkFestival Sky Clear frosty nights are not to everyone’s liking but to those who want a wonderful view of the Cosmos then there is one place where awesome views are guaranteed: The Ballycroy National Park was established in November 1998 and is Ireland’s sixth National Park located along the Wild Atlantic Way in northwest Mayo.

Last month, this vast and virtually uninhabited stretch of unspoilt wilderness was officially awarded the coveted title of Ireland’s first “Gold Tier” International Dark Sky Park as recognised by the International Dark Sky Association. It is hoped that the park will become a Mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, amateur astronomers and adventurous people seeking an authentic ‘off the grid’ experience while at the same time raising an awareness of light pollution and developing educational and science based programmes through related interests in Astronomy.

The inaugural Mayo Dark Sky Festival with the theme “Our Place in the Cosmos” opens in the idyllic coastal town of Newport from 28th to 30th October. An exciting program of events awaits over three days, including talks from world–class experts on topics such as Mars, Comets, Astrophotography and Ireland’s contribution to the Space Age to name a few. Family events range from the likes of Planetarium shows, hands on science shows and a chance to build a real Rocket with experts from the Irish Rocketry Society.

With a range of accommodation offerings at unbeatable value this event promises to be a weekend event like no other. mayodarkskyfestival.wordpress.com

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Gallery Zozimus

56 Francis Street, Dublin 8, PH : 4539057

Vessels – Raku – Ian Carty

Foue Cans – Oil on Board – Willem De Bont

Dancing Hares – Bronze – Mary Ferris

Baily Lighthouse Howth – Oil on Canvas – Patrick Cashin

Jewellery Box – Elm Fluted – Erich fichtner

Dublins Largest Ceramic Gallery incorporating Fine Art Over 70 Ceramic Artists on Show

Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie, Web: www.galleryzozimus.ie

Explore Connaught

Lovely Leitrim Barge Holiday Boatel Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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You can book online at www.bargeholidayboatel.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Mary McInerney and Jorn Bjerknes invite you to join them on their luxury custom made barge for an unforgettable experience traversing the Shannon waterways.

Whether you fancy going fishing, a leisurely cruise down the Shannon, going for a round of golf, or anything else you can think of, Mary and Jorn are happy to cater to what is required.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

15-year-old Charles Darcy was a shop assistant and a member of the Irish Citizen Army. He was killed in action at City Hall on Easter Monday, 1916. His mother, Elizabeth, passed his medal and his Memoriam card over to the care of the National Museum of Ireland.

1916. This is as close as it gets.

Collins Barracks Benburb Street, Dublin 7.

Free Admission www.museum.ie

LUAS Red Line Museum Stop

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 46

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

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Recommended Pubs in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 48

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 October 2016 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Photograph Mark Nixon

I

Great Irish Writers

f ever there was a writer who managed to capture the idiosyncrasies of Dublin language and humour, it’s Roddy Doyle. Since the publication of his first novel, The Commitments, almost thirty years ago, Doyle has gone on to write a further nine novels for adults, eight books for children, seven plays and screenplays, as well as numerous short stories.

With his stage adaptation of The Commitments about to come to Dublin for the first time at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre, it’s a fitting time to acknowledge this great Irish writer.

Born and raised in Kilbarrack on Dublin’s northside, Doyle initially worked as an English and geography teacher after graduating from UCD. His first attempt at a novel was a sprawling state-of-the-nation saga entitled Your Granny Is a Hunger Striker, which was roundly rejected by publishers. Once he took stock and began writing about the working-class Dublin people that he saw all around him, success soon followed. The Commitments was published to great acclaim in 1987 and was soon followed by The Snapper in 1990 and The Van in 1991.

These novels, focussing on the Rabbitte family in the fictional north Dublin suburb of Barrytown, would later become collectively known as The Barrytown Trilogy. Many praised his use of dialogue between his characters, eschewing description or exposition to focus on the gritty but heartwarming characters.

All three of the novels in The Barrytown Trilogy would later be adapted into films and Doyle found his profile raised further when

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Roddy Doyle

his next novel, Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha won the Booker Prize in 1993. The novel told the story of 10-year-old Paddy Clarke, who lives in Dublin in 1968. While still full of Doyle’s trademark humour, the novel also had more dramatic themes.

Doyle would explore drama further in the TV series Family and its follow up novels The Woman Who Walked into Doors and Paula Spencer. The series and novels follow the life of Paula Spencer, a working-class woman with a violent husband and are regarded in some quarters as Doyle’s best work.

In recent years, Doyle’s short story New Boy was adapted into an Academy Award nominated short film (2008) directed by Steph Green and he co-authored Roy Keane’s second autobiography, The Second Half. He also returned to Barrytown in his most recent novel The Guts, which continues the story of Jimmy Rabbitte, the young manager of The Commitments, who is now in his forties and facing up to a cancer diagnosis.

In spite of all of his success, Doyle remains, by all accounts, grounded and modest and still lives in the north Dublin area that has inspired so much of his work. No doubt it will inspire yet more brilliant novels that capture the heart and unique wit of the Dublin people. Roddy Doyle is one of modern Ireland’s outstanding writers and if you’re not familiar with his work, we heartily recommend a trip to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month to see The Commitments.

A story about a band that brought soul to Dublin written by a man who knows just how to tap into the soul of his home city.