Travel Ireland Volume 5 Issue 55 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland Volume 5 Issue 55 November 2018

Oh No It Isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

Oh yes it is!

Snow Queen has Arrived at Gaiety Theatre!

Cork Film Festival

Science Week at Alliance Francaise

magazine

Pat Liddy takes a seat at The Hungry Tree

Get Crafty at Swords Market

Spinning Yarns at Mermaid Theatre

Dublin Book Festival Set to Be a Page Turner

CONTENTS

Welcome to Leinster

The Gaiety Panto

YARN Storytelling Festival

10 Theatre

The Hungry Tree by Pat Liddy

National Gallery

The Matchmaker

Explore Leinster

Leinster Bars

Leinster Restaurants

French Science Week

Welcome to Munster

Swords Christmas Market

Cork Film Festival

Munster Bars

Munster Restaurants

Cobh Heritage Centre

34 Shopping

Explore Munster

Dublin Book Festival

Welcome to Connaught

Connaught Bars

Abbey Hotel Roscommon

Connaught Restaurants

Explore Connaught

Welcome to Ulster

Explore Ulster

Ulster Restaurants

Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our November issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month, we put a spotlight on some fantastic events happening in the Irish capital – the Dublin Book Festival, French Science Week and the return of the legendary John B. Keane’s The Matchmaker to the stage. Meanwhile, taking place in Wicklow is the YARN Storytelling Festival, while Munster hosts one of the biggest culture events in Ireland – the Cork Film Festival. Also, in the issue Pat Liddy writes about the strange phenomenon that is The Hungry Tree and the magazine gives the run down on the best theatre to see across the country, as well as upcoming seasonal festivities with the Gaiety Panto and the Swords Christmas Market. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt Céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels)

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

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The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Get Ready for a The iconic annual Gaiety Panto will return this year with a production of Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale The Snow Queen.

aking place from November 25 to January 6, the Gaiety promise an ‘extravaganza’ that will bring audiences “a tale of friendship and love, that as always conquers evil,” as well as a show “full of song and dance and the odd slippery surprise”. Based on the same 1894 Danish story that inspired Disney’s runaway smash hit animation Frozen in 2013, the play centres on the evil titular character who with chilling treachery, kidnaps one half of a beloved couple and casts a ‘sub-zero spell’. This leads to our hero embarking on an adventure, trekking through storm and blizzard to find his lost love. According to the Gaiety, the show will put to the test whether true love can melt a frozen heart… Irish native and West End star Louise Bowden will star as the Snow Queen.

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No stranger to musicals, the actress earned raves for her lead roles on stage in acclaimed shows such as Guys and Dolls, Into the Woods, Mamma Mia, Mary Poppins, Singin’ in the Rain and We Will Rock You. Nicholas Grennell (The Clinic,The Tudors) will play Jack Frost, while the legendary Joe Conlan returns as the Panto Dame, the recurring original character and constant figure throughout all the Gaiety’s musical retellings of fairy tales. Daryn Crosbie is directing. For those visiting or newly arrived in Ireland, panto stands for pantomime and is a form of theatre developed in Western culture. Aimed at children and often taking place during the Christmas and New Year season, it employs gendercrossing actors and combines topical

Brrrrr...iliant Panto

humour with a story based on a wellknown fairy tale, fable or folk tale. Modern pantomime includes songs, gags, slapstick comedy and dancing and is a participatory form of theatre, in which the audience is expected to sing along with certain parts of the music and shout out phrases to the performers. The Gaiety Theatre has hosted their Christmas Panto every year since 1873, cementing the show as an important part of Irish culture. The event always generates plenty of publicity and interest. As the Gaiety note, families often come from far and wide to see it and for many the show has become as much of a family Christmas tradition as Santa himself. Recent stories given the panto treatment by the theatre include Robin Hood, Little Red Riding Hood and Peter Pan.

The Gaiety will have to work hard to top last year’s take on Rapunzel which earned great reviews. The Irish Independent called it ‘the best Gaiety Panto yet’ praising it for its interactive element, saying ‘the crowd lapped it up.’ Meanwhile, the Irish Mail on Sunday said it was ‘exceptional, high-tech and spectacular.’ However, the theatre seem confident, promising audiences will ‘shiver and shake with laughter as we follow the icy encounters of The Snow Queen as she tries to freeze the fun out of Christmas.’ Tickets are on sale now. They can be purchased in person at Ticketmaster outlets and Gaiety Theatre Box Offices or found online at www.gaietytheatre.ie or www.ticketmaster.ie. The price of a ticket is €19.50 (including the booking fee

and restoration levy). Meanwhile, to arrange group bookings contact +353 (0)1 646 8687 or send an e-mail group.sales@ticketmaster.ie. The Gaiety Panto’s version of The Snow Queen will premiere just two weeks after Disney on Ice’s new show Dream Big will take place at Dublin’s Citywest Hotel from November 9-11. Both are aimed at n and fe ffeature ature new ta children takes on en’s classic fa ffairy iry Andersen’s tale.

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Wicklow Festival to

Spin Some Yarns Now in its 9th year, the YARN Storytelling festival is returning to Bray for over a week.

rom November 10-18, the Wicklow town will host a series of interviews, plays and workshops all focusing on bringing people together to share and hear stories. Taking place the ﬁrst day upstairs in the Town Hall is Frances Quinn’s The Cúchulainn Saga. The acclaimed actress grew up in Armagh with a keen sense of the history of the county. Putting that knowledge to practice she will be delivering the rite of passage stories of Cúchulainn, introducing the audience to King Conor Mac Nessa, Feargus Mac Roech, his wife Eimear and the warrior Aoife among many others. She will be joined in the show by ﬁddler Ultan O'Brien. Continuing the theme of Celtic mythology November 11 in the same

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venue is Aengus & Caer which recounts the classic Irish romance tale through verbal storytelling, music and dance. Also, much loved brother-sister storytelling duo Candlelit Tales will be upstairs in The Harbour Bar, November 15 with The Book of Invasions, describing the ﬁrst tribes to arrive in Ireland. Telling a more contemporary Irish story at the festival is John Connors, lead of the smash hits Cardboard Gangsters and Love/Hate, with oneman show Ireland’s Call. Written by and starring the actor, the play follows the lives and family histories of three young men as they grow up in Coolock on Dublin's northside and what entices them to a life of crime. Examining issues of class, religion and identity, this new

play is an unﬂinching exploration of the Irish psyche, bringing collective guilts, secrets and ﬂaws to the surface. The performance – taking place November 15 at the Mermaid Arts Centre - will be followed by a post-show discussion with Connors. On November 16, the Mermaid Arts Centre will host musical Tea Dance, described by organisers as Under Milk Wood meets Twin Peaks with music by Cab Calloway and the Velvet Underground. The enigmatic plot synopsis reads: “For a long time worldweary beatniks, bomb-makers, old hippies, anarcho-punks, outsider artists, suffragettes and fugitives have retreated to rural locations to start afresh. Tullyglen is one such place; a remote Donegal village where everyone has a

story no one wants to tell and a hidden dread their chickens will come home to roost.” Also to be showcased is some local storytelling. At the Little Bray Community Centre there is Heritage Orchard Tales on November 17. Inspired by old Persian, Syrian, Greek and Roman traditions of telling stories amongst the trees, join storyteller Philip Byrne for some tales drawing inspiration from Bray’s own heritage orchard. There are events aimed at children too. Taking place November 17 at the Killruddery Farm Market is Monsters, Fairies & Silly Jack. Scottish storyteller Tom Muir brings his audience on a journey to islands created from the body of a terrible monster, where a woman’s kindness wins her the blessing of the fairies and where Silly Jack makes his fortune by doing exactly what he is told. According to the host, these stories were told by Muir’s Pictish and Viking ancestors long ago.

The same day in The Mermaid Arts Centre, Muir is also part of a storytelling evening entitled People of the Sea. Inspired by Celtic Legends, the tales involve seals, selchies, mermaids and mermen, as well as the people who live side by side with them. YARN closes with two events at the Mermaid Arts Centre, November 18, bringing the festival’s unifying theme of the power of music as a storytelling device to the fore. Acclaimed French artist Abbi Patrix renowned for blending spoken word with dance, music and mime – will host a workshop. Titled The Musical Skills of the Storyteller, the masterclass will explore how, with or without an instrument, the storyteller can search for and ﬁnd a new perspective on the art of storytelling, through rhythm and tones. As part of Music and Me, members of The Little Bray Writers Group share their insights into the music in their everyday lives. The readings will be enhanced by guitar playing of Gerry Anderson, using his own compositions while a themed slide-show by Deirdre Ridgeway compliments the performances. Worth noting is the Mermaid Gallery’s exhibition taking place during

YARN. It highlights the story of local woman Josephine Heffernan, whose bracelet was lost in France 100 years ago during World War I and was recently returned to her family in Bray. In 2002, a young boy found jewellery in the French village of Rimaucourt, marked Josephine G Heffernan, ABH 59 (American Base Hospital) and USANC (United States Army Nursing Corps). Thus, began a search to ﬁnd out more about the mysterious Josephine – in which some amazing discoveries were made. For more details, other events at YARN and ticket prices, visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie/whats-on/ events/category/yarn-storytellingfestival-bray or call 01-2724030.

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Theatre

Mermaid Arts Centre Woman Undone

Dates: Oct 31 – Nov 10 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey Theatre this month: Asking for It Nov 9-24

The Gate Theatre The Great Gatsby

Dublin theatre company Brokentalkers have collaborated with Ireland’s greatest female vocalist Mary Coughlan for this powerful music theatre performance. The play tells the story of the singer’s traumatic early life, her experience of abuse, addiction, mental illness and the redemption she found through art. Nov 29 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: Ireland’s Call Nov 15, Tea Dance Nov 16 (see pages 8, 9)

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre The Band by Tim Firth

Presented by Take That, The Band is a new musical about what it’s like to grow up with a boyband. For five 16-year-old friends in 1992, ‘the band’ is everything. 25 years on, audiences are reunited with the group, now 40-something women, as they try once more to fulfil their dream of meeting their heroes. Dates: Nov 6-10 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www. bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre

Double Cross by Thomas Kilroy

This immersive stage adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel about young, mysterious millionaire Jay Gatsby returns once again following a critically acclaimed, awardwinning and sell-out run in 2017. The theatre will be transformed into the central character’s mansion, famed for its decadent opulence and atmosphere. The seats will be removed from the auditorium, allowing audiences access to the stage and backstage areas, the Green Room, hospitality room and the Studio space, enabling them to experience one of Gatsby’s unique and legendary parties, with a bar in full swing. Organisers say 1920s jazz age style costumes are encouraged and dancing shoes are mandatory. Dates: Nov 15 – Jan 20 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

The Olympia Theatre

Hello Again – The Story of Neil Diamond

This play creatively pitches two real-life Irishmen against each other in World War II’s propaganda battle - Brendan Bracken, the British Minister for Information, and Nazi broadcaster William Joyce, better known as Lord Haw-Haw. Originally performed in 1986, organisers say Double Cross now takes on a new relevance in an era of heightened nationalism and ‘fake news’.

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This tribute show celebrates one Neil Leslie Diamond, charting his life over 50 years from his early days as an in-house songwriter at the now legendary Brill Building, to his selling of over 125 million records. Featuring live music from acclaimed tribute act Brooklyn Creed & The Salvation Band, dubbed ‘the voice of Diamond’, as well as evocative imagery, video and narration, the show takes fans on a musical journey. Expect to hear hits like ‘Sweet Caroline’, ‘Cracklin’ Rosie’, ‘Forever in Blue Jeans’, ‘Song Sung Blue’, ‘Hello Again’, ‘Love on the Rocks’, ‘America’ and many more. Dates: Nov 25 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

The Gaiety Theatre The Nutcracker Dates: Nov 14-17 Ballet Ireland is bringing the world’s favourite ballet The Nutcracker to audiences nationwide this season. This Irish production of the festive classic, performed by an international cast of world-class dancers, appeals to audiences of all ages, with its fairy tale magic, Tchaikovsky’s beloved and sumptuous score, beautiful costumes, and tale of wondrous adventure. Organisers say it is one of the most delectable Christmas confections imaginable. Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: The Matchmaker Nov 5-10 (see page 17), The Snow Queen – The Gaiety Panto Nov 25 – Jan 6 (see pages 6, 7)

Smock Alley Theatre The Little Prince Based on the famous children’s story from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the play focuses on the titular character as he voyages through the cosmos, uncovering answers and unearthing knowledge about love, humanity and life. Meeting an array of interplanetary vagabonds and faux philosophers, he discovers life in the universe may not be exactly what he expected. Dates: Nov 6-10 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock Alley this month: MisConceptions Nov 6-10

The

Hungry Tree By Pat Liddy

hat which can separate one great city from another is not always the magnificence of its buildings and institutions but rather its hidden quarters and its quirky stories. One such example in Dublin is the so-called Hungry Tree. Over eighty or ninety years ago this great specimen of a London plane tree was planted a bit too close to an unoffending early 19th century cast-iron park bench. Over the succeeding years the tree has grown to 21 metres in height and its corresponding expansion in girth gradually brought it closer and closer to the unsuspecting bench. As the developing bark of the tree nudged the seat it began to press its gnarled surface against and subsequently enfold the wood and iron. The bench proved equally stubborn and refused to budge one little bit. In turn the advance of the tree couldn’t be stopped either so the classic clash of the unstoppable force meeting the immovable object has unfolded with dramatic effect. It actually looks as if the tree is slowly digesting the bench like some mythical beast. Hence its acquired name of the Hungry Tree. These conjoined specimens stand on the grounds of the Honorable Society of King's Inns, a school for lawyers first established in 1541 during the reign of Henry Vlll of England. This was fift y one years before the foundation of Trinity College and is therefore

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probably the country’s oldest lay learning institution. Initially the Inns were based nearer to the river Liffey on land confiscated from the Dominicans when the king closed their monastery and which site is now occupied by the Four Courts. In the Middle Ages, the need for apprentice lawyers to learn about common law led to the founding of hostels or Inns of Court where they could both study and live. There were chambers or rooms where barristers lived and worked, a hall for eating and drinking, a library for research, a chapel for prayer and gardens for recreation. All very nice but they were ultimately to be discommoded as you will see below. By 1634 membership of the King’s Inns was made compulsory for barristers wishing to practise in Ireland although legal courses were only available in London until much later. Under the Penal Laws of the 1690s Roman Catholics were excluded from the legal profession until the Catholic Relief Act of 1792 when they were allowed to practise at the outer Bar but not as judges. This remained in effect until the Catholic Emancipation Act of 1829. When the government of the day decided to build the new Four Courts on Inns Quay towards the end of the 18th century the Benchers of the Inns had to find alternative accommodation for their headquarters and their school of law. They chose a site at the top

of very fashionable Henrietta Street sold to them by the Primate of Armagh, Archbishop Robinson. James Gandon, also the architect for the Four Courts, was chosen to design the new premises and the foundation stone was laid in 1800. Construction was interrupted several times, probably for lack of cash flow, and Gandon grew weary of all the delays and so handed over the responsibility of finishing to his pupil, Aaron Baker. The work was finally completed in 1817. While the official address of the King’s Inns is Henrietta Street the main façade of the institution faces onto Constitution Hill. None of James Gandon’s several magnificent buildings in Dublin have survived intact as first built. They have either been burned, shelled or reconstructed and this one is no exception. Two wings were added to the central arrangement and although they merge perfectly with the overall design the extended bulk makes the cupola look too small in proportion. Today the Honorable Society of King's Inns is the institution which controls the entry of barristers-at-law into the justice system of Ireland.

While the primary focus of the school is the training of barristers it now also offers a range of other legal courses. The Honorable Society of King’s Inns comprises benchers, barristers and students. The benchers include all the judges of the Supreme and High Courts and a number of elected barristers. Part of the students’ curriculum demands attendance at numerous dinners in the elegant Dining Hall, which is, incidentally, the only important Gandon interior to remain unaltered. The Benchers of old laid great emphasis on the pleasures of the palate, a fact which is amply evidenced by Edward Smyth’s sculptures around the building including the Goddess of Plenty and a Follower of Bacchus, both of which are placed on either side of the entrance to the dining room. The general public are welcome to enter the grounds of the King’s Inns during daylight hours either from Henrietta Street (passing through an archway, a courtyard and finally under a second archway) or through one of the gates on Constitution Hill. The tree is near to the south gate.

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e t a r b e l e C to y r e l l a G l a Nation National Gallery of Ireland, Merrion Square Entrance Photo: Chris Bellew / © Fennell

Caravyaleggio in St

National Gallery of Ireland, Upper Beit Wing © Fennell Photography / Chris Bellew

2 The Taking of Christ, 160 Caravaggio (1571-1610). St., Dublin, who son Michelangelo Merisi da Lee ity, mun Com it nd from the Jesu l Gallery of Ireland. National Gallery of Irela -Wilson. Photo © Nationa On indefinite loan to the of the late Dr Marie Lea ity eros gen kind the e acknowledg

National Gallery of Ireland, Upper Milltown Wing © Fennell Photography / Chris Bellew

National Gallery of Ireland, Courtyard, featuring Magnus Modus sculpture by Joseph Walsh. Photo © National Gallery of Ireland 14

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Jesus in the residence of the Society of y ging in the o mark the 25th anniversar han n Irish capital. It had bee since the early of Caravaggio’s The Taking of m roo ing Dublin Jesuits’ din the to ed eal rev ng bei sidered a Christ 1930s but had long been con y of ller Ga al tion Na the lic, pub copy of the lost original. nt. mond Ireland will host a free eve From 5.30pm to 6.15pm Ray at Merrion the of or ect Dir Taking place November 15 r me for Keaveney, , Dublin 2 will , and Fr Noel Square West & Clare Street National Gallery of Ireland an ori hist art ed laim acc by unity, which talk mm cial Co spe it be a Barber of the Jesu fessor sterpiece The ma io’s agg rav and writer Richard Spear. Pro Affiliate Ca has loaned and e, lleg Co n erli , discuss Ob Emeritus at Taking of Christ to the gallery of sity iver Un at or his painting of fess act Pro ch imp Resear Caravaggio, and the in Italian display in on put s wa it e Maryland, Spear specialises on visitors sinc The ich wh of le sty the g, Baroque paintin y in 1993. He has written the Galler Taking of Christ is a part of. l be followed at 6.30pm to wil is Th Caravaggio in talk. Both extensively on the work of 7.30pm by Professor Spear’s rs owe Foll his and ggio ava king is Car books such as are free to attend and no boo urge : Essays on isia em Art to do ggio ava ery Car gall m and Fro required.That said the ury Italy and ent th-C ly to be a een like ent is it Sev as in ly ting ear Pain people to arrive France. packed house. nobleman talk is a Commissioned by Roman Coinciding with the special Taking of Christ The 2, 160 Thursday in of i n tte sio Ma ver iaco ed Cir Caravaggio-them are ere Th s. Jesu of nthly event depicts the arrest Lates, the free after-hours mo ee thr as, Jud s, Jesu sic, food, n, mu Joh : oy res seven figu hosted by the gallery. Enj a lantern to g din hol ing nail n lud ma inc a – and ies rs ivit die sol drinks, creative act he as just n see n Tropical the scene. Judas is art in collaboration with salo ying ntif ide , him ing kiss rs at by s tou betrayed Jesu Popical - as well as guided s will s. erie tor gall cap e his Th . to him 5.30pm and 6.30pm a storied 0pm. 8.3 il unt lic pub The painting itself has had the to n remain ope s wa it y, tur cen h 18t late history. By the All ages are welcome. d, and its thought to have disappeare n for about whereabouts were unknow For more details, visit Caravaggio’s 7, 198 in , ver we 200 years. Ho www.nationalgallery.ie in the masterpiece was recognized

NEW OPENING HOURS: Sunday & Monday 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5pm Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 5pm

or one week only, John B. Keane’s The Matchmaker will be performed at The Gaiety Theatre, Dublin. Based on the legendary Irish writer’s novella Letters of a Country Matchmaker, the play follows the efforts of Dicky Mick Dicky O'Connor to make matches for the lonely and lovelorn. Comedian Jon Kenny (d’Unbelievables, Father Ted) stars in the production, alongside actress Mary McEvoy (long running RTE series Glenroe). Keane (who died in 2002) was acclaimed for his well-observed depictions of Irish life. The Matchmaker serves as an exploration of rural loneliness, focusing on the generations of people who only began to look for companionship and love late in life, once their duties as minder of aging parents were concluded. Organisers say The Matchmaker

showcases the writer’s inimitable way with words and wit, as he delves into the longings, hungers, fears and foibles of this collection of lonely country people. In doing so, he takes us back to a simpler time, when phones were few and far between and the only web was one left behind by spiders. Returning due to phenomenal demand, the smash hit play’s previous run in 2015 received rave reviews. Dublin Live said: “The Gaiety's hilarious production of The Matchmaker will leave you in stitches," while The Sunday Business post declared: "The Matchmaker is a classic that continues to entertain." Kenny and McEvoy’s performances were also acclaimed. Praising the actors, The Irish Times stated: "As directed by Michael Scott, Mary McEvoy and Jon Kenny provide everything Keane could have desired.”

The play runs from November 5 – 10 at the Gaiety with 7.30pm shows Monday to Saturday, as well matinees Wednesday and Saturday at 2.30pm. Tickets are from €20 and can be found at www.gaietytheatre.ie/events/thematchmaker/. For group sales call +353 (1) 646 8687 or e-mail groups@gaietytheatre.com Meanwhile, for wheelchair and box bookings phone +353 (1) 679 5622.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

MATTHEW WELDON

Antique, vintage and estate jewellery

Matthew.weldons Courtville - Matthew Weldon Antique Gallery, Powerscourt Townhouse, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Website - www.matthewweldon.ie | Telephone 00353 (1) 6794042

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum EPIC is a state-of-the-art museum that tells the moving and unforgettable story of the 10 million people who left Ireland – and how they influenced and shaped the world. Experience this breathtaking story in the world’s only fully digital museum. This top-rated attraction houses the Irish Family History Centre, helping visitors uncover their Irish roots. Top 10 Things to Do in Dublin on TripAdvisor and shortlisted for European Museum of the Year 2018. Open daily 10am to 6:45pm (last entry 5pm). The CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. epicchq.com +353 (0)1 906 0861

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

Ç§ definitely the place to be. Ä&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;ÇŚ Ä&#x17D;Ä&#x2019;Ä&#x160; Ä&#x160;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201C; Ä&#x2039;Ä&#x2014;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x2019; Í&#x2022;Í&#x2013; Ä&#x201C;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201C;

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about Í&#x153;Í&#x2022;ÇŚÍ&#x153;Í&#x2013; Â&#x2013;Â&#x192;Â&#x17D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2013;ÇĄ Â&#x2020;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â? Â&#x2026;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2013;Â&#x203A; Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â?Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021; the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Ç¤Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2013;Ç¤Â&#x2039;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2013;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;ÇŁ Í&#x201D;Í&#x2022; Í&#x153;Í&#x203A;Í&#x153; Í&#x153;Í&#x161;Í&#x2122;Í&#x2122; Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18.

the celt

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history was renovated. Now run by the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028 NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven. 37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 4 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. 140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

Toscana ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

Cliff Townhouse

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Multi award winning Toscana Restaurant specialises in authentic Italian cuisine with emphasis on fresh organic produce from their Wicklow Garden. They pride themselves on creating menus around locally sourced produce and stock an extensive selection of fine wines from Italy and from other choice regions around the world. Toscana Restaurant is located on beautiful Dún Laoghaire seafront where you can enjoy panoramic sea-views overlooking Dublin Bay and Dún Laoghaire harbour. Toscana Restaurant offers a relaxed dining experience with impeccable service and a relaxed atmosphere. A visit to Toscana is a must.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

5 Windsor Terrace Dún Laoghaire E dunlaoghaire@toscana.ie Tel No 01 2300890

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Magniﬁque and

Scientiﬁc!

Alliance Française Dublin to Become Science Hub Taking place from November 11-18, Science Week is an annual festival which celebrates science and research with more than 1,000 events organised throughout Ireland. However, this year for the first time the French Embassy and Alliance Française Dublin have partnered with researchers and artists to offer a distinct new line-up with a special French touch. The French Festival at Science Week will take place from November 14-19 across Dublin showcasing innovative science fairs, comic art exhibitions, talks and interactive workshops. It kicks off in The Sugar Club with Effervesciences, a 90-minute show hosted by Dr Richard-Emmanuel Eastes - Chemistry Associate and Doctor of Education and Philosophy, as well as Head of Academic and Professional Development at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts, Western Switzerland. Organisers say the event is filled with ‘intelligent wonder’ as the host uses demonstrations, entertainment, quizzes and theoretical and experimental challenges, to explore scientific phenomena in a simple and fun way. Children's tickets cost €5 while adults can see the show for €8. For the rest of the festival, Alliance Française Dublin’s Kildare Street premises will be transformed 22

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

into a place of experiments and entertainment. Their café La Cocotte will become an exhibition space devoted to comics and science for free event My Thesis...in a Comic Strip! on November 15. Having faced the challenge of presenting their thesis in French last March, recent laureates have worked with artist Orchimy to translate their studies into comic form. Dr Eastes will return for another workshop exploring whether it’s possible to learn maths, science, languages or geography through video games. Taking place on November 15, the event is free to attend, as are the ﬁnal two shows Children’s Workshop Native Scientists and Les Cellules Déambulent. The ﬁrst is on November 17 and is a workshop for pupils 6-12 years old who speak French at home and English in school. The event is to help them develop their language skills and science knowledge while meeting role models in the industry. Meanwhile, closing event Les Cellules Déambulent is a demonstration that aims to educate the public about cells and their capacity to take on a diverse range of roles in the human body. This will be followed by a workshop, during which participants experiment with cells, extracting DNA from a banana. Open to adults and children alike, the festival aims to educate and entertain. For more details visit www.alliance-francaise.ie/scienceweek/

Persian Cuisine

44/45 Lr. Camden St., Dublin 2 Delivery Number 01 4005700

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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Craft y this Christmas

Get

Swords Market F

ingal County Council and Urban Markets will help shoppers get in seasonal mood with the Swords Castle Christmas Market. The event will take place in the 800-year-old castle, located on Swords’ Main Street between November 30 and December 1. There will be over 45 traders within the castle walls, with an emphasis on local producers, artists, crafters, makers and collectors. Highlights include Kokoman Krafts, a Mallow-based business selling leather satchels and handbags, as well as pashminas and shawls; Jings Crivens Industries, located in Harold’s Cross in Dublin, offering unusual, vintage handcrafted household ornaments; and

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

Kildare’s Coolree Design specialising in contemporary furniture. Organisers say the Swords Castle Christmas Market is a fantastic opportunity for people to pick up their loved ones presents, stocking fillers and Christmas decorations – all while supporting the community. During the event, one can witness the turning on of Christmas lights in Swords Castle, as well as at the town’s Main Street on the Friday evening. There will also be live music throughout the event with local choirs singing all the classic Christmas carols. There’s plenty for children too. Kids can feast on delicious food, artisan baked goods (including the gorgeous and

Irish Mr Donut), fresh local produce and hot chocolate with marshmallows to keep them warm while parents browse for bargains. Meanwhile, Jolly Old Saint Nick will be flying in from the North Pole for a special appearance in the castle over the two days. On top of all this, there is face painting for kids, along with many other fun activities, helping to spread some Christmas cheer. The Swords Castle Outdoor Christmas Market will take place on November 30 from 12 noon until 8pm and on December 1 from 11am till 6pm. For more details, visit the market’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ events/413422312397271/.

French Tuition, Cultural Events, Library & CafÃ©

New courses for all ages & levels starting November 19th!

The French Language & Cultural Centre 1 Kildare Street, Dublin D02KW52 (01) 676 1732 / alliance-francaise.ie

Dublin

Free placement test every Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday 5pm-7pm!

are you

a Rebel or A chieftain FIND OUT!

BREWERY TOURS & TASTINGS AT 2PM, 4PM & 6PM

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13/05/2018 23:09

CORK FILM FESTIVAL

WILL BE ‘THE FAVOURITE’ FOR FILM FANS Programmers for the 63rd Cork Film Festival, running from November 9-18, say the event will showcase Irish and international movies with a focus on current global issues. The 2018 programme for Ireland’s first and largest film festival features films with themes centred on LGBT, mental health, child poverty, gender equality, and human rights. Over 250 Irish and international features and shorts will be screened across the Festival, with 90 per cent being Irish premieres. “Our mission is to bring people together through an outstanding programme of films and events and to create an unforgettable festival experience over 10 days in Cork,” said Festival Producer and CEO Fiona Clark in a statement. “As a destination for great storytelling on film, this year’s programme includes numerous awardwinners from the 2018 international festival circuit, alongside fresh new voices, together showcasing the latest and best independent cinema. For many films presented, this is the only opportunity to see them on the big screen in Cork and Ireland.” Picking up an award at the prestigious Toronto film festival this year, Cork-born

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

director Carmel Winters’ Irish drama Float Like a Butterfly will open the event. Set in the 1960s, a young girl must fight to pursue her dreams of becoming a boxer after her jailbird father says the sport is not for women. “It is fantastic that we can open the Festival with a film with such distinct Cork connections. Float like a Butterfly is a special film that fiercely challenges patriarchy and stereotypes. Carmel, and many of the cast and crew, will be in attendance for this European premiere,” said Programme Director Michael Hayden in a statement. “Selecting Float like a Butterfly as the Opening Gala is indicative of the Festival’s commitment to celebrating Irish film, and we have secured some of the most celebrated films of the year.” Another homegrown film playing at the festival is Yorgos Lanthimos’ two-time Venice Film Festival winner The Favourite, produced by the Irish company Element Pictures and starring Olivia Colman, Emma Stone and Rachel Weisz.There’s also The

Dig, starring Moe Dunford, which was awarded Best Irish Feature at the Galway Film Fleadh this year, as well as thrillers Cellar Door and The Belly of the Whale. Cork Film Festival also will screen a number of films that competed for the Palme D’or – the top honour at Cannes Film Festival, a stamp of quality in film circles.The winner of that award, Shoplifters, will play Saturday, November 17 at the Gate Multiplex. Set in Tokyo, a family who live in poverty, shoplifting to make ends meet, discover a homeless girl who shows signs of abuse. Despite their strained finances, they informally adopt her. Other acclaimed international movies to screen at the festival include American indie comedy Sorry to Bother You, South Korean thriller Burning, Samurai action flick Killing, sumptuous haunted dress horror In Fabric, Lizzie Borden biopic Lizzie, the Matthew McConaughey starring crime drama White Boy Rick and the legendary Robert Redford’s final leading role The Old Man and the Gun.

“

CORK FILM FESTIVAL

Picking up an award at the prestigious Toronto film festival this year, Cork-born director Carmel Winters’ Irish drama Float Like a Butterfly will open the event.

The festival’s closing movie is the Irish premiere of Nadine Labaki’s multi-awardwinning Capernaum, which the festival programmers are calling an ‘urgent, important film’ on child poverty and the denial of an individual’s human rights. The programme also features 40 documentaries. Highlights include work from veteran auteurs such as Frederick Wiseman’s Monrovia, Indiana and Werner Herzog’s Meeting Gorbachev, as well as Hal – the documentary on the life and career of legendary filmmaker Hal Ashby. Special presentations include a cine concert of the 1920s silent horror Nosferatu (November 13) at St Fin Barre’s Cathedral,

with a new score by Cork composers Irene and Linda Buckley. Also, this year the festival collaborated with the National Sculpture Factory for Alan Butler’s On Exactitude in Science (November 12-14) a work comprising Godfrey Reggio’s 1983 masterpiece Koyaanisqatsi in synchronicity with Butler’s 2017 remake Koyaanisgtav. Illuminate, the Festival’s unique series of film and discussion events exploring mental health and wellbeing, is presented in association with Arts+Minds, the HSE Cork Mental Health Service and Irish Rail Iarnród Éireann. Screenings include Trauma is a Time Machine, For the Birds, and Ordinary People. The family strand – a series of movies aimed

at children - will be screened throughout the Festival at The Gate Cinema.The programme includes the highly-anticipated family friendly animations, The Grinch (November 10) and The Overcoat (November 17), the latter featuring the voice of Cork actor Cillian Murphy. In total, 117 shorts will be presented across the 10 days and will be considered for either the Grand Prix Irish Short or the Grand Prix International Short Awards.The winners of both, announced at the Awards Ceremony on November 18 at the Triskel Arts Centre, will be automatically longlisted for the Oscars. For more details about this year’s Cork Film Festival, visit corkfilmfest.org.

NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Munster Jack Meades (under the bridge)

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day. Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Original Durty Nelly’s

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

Dick Mack’s

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Castle's Award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide, and holder of two AA Rosettes. Under the direction of the Resort’s Head Chef Tom Spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. The restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar. Visit our Fitzgerald Bar which houses the finest Irish whiskey collection. Located just ten minutes from Waterford City, and ninety minutes from Dublin and Cork airport, Waterford Castle Resort is a destination not to be missed. Voted #5 of the Ten Best Hotels in Ireland 2018 by Condé Nast Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Luxury Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards

The Copper Hen

The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

La Boheme

The Smuggler’s Inn

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island |Waterford | Ireland w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203

Momo

The Strand Inn

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Cobh The Queenstown Story

Heritage Centre

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces

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fighting in America between 1775 and 1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration. Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

Dingle Crystal F

rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two. With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland. They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide. Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter. If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the new Dingle Crystal Factory & Visitor Centre is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop where you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s incredible designs are created. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative. From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great

demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection. Visit their new Factory & Visitor Centre. They cater for groups of all sizes, with personal demonstrations with Master Craftsman Sean Daly and his sons. Please contact Adam on 0669151550 or email adam@dinglecrystal.ie to organise a tour. Dingle Crystal Unit 4 Ballinaboola Industrial Estate Dingle Co. Kerry 066 9151550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie

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Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Courtville – Matthew Weldon

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 34

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Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 01-6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Since 1805, family-owned Mitchell & Son have been providing Fine Wines & Spirits to the people of Ireland. Now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of New & Old World Wines, Champagne, & fortified wines. Home to the Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of Irish, Scotch, & Japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. With a superb selection of Riedel Glassware and decanters, Coravin Wine System, and Le Creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in Ireland. Mitchell & Son also offer Wine and Whiskey Appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the Irish market and a chance to explore your tastes. CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin, D01 FC89 Tel: 01 612 5540 www.mitchellandson.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

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This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 36

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Dublin Book Festival Set to Be a Page Turner ne of the countries’ largest book festivals returns November 15-18, hosting exhibitions, launches and workshops. Now in its 12th year, upcoming highlights include the event’s conversation strain, where famous writers discuss their work together in front of a crowd. On the first day, audiences can join literary magazine The Stinging Fly’s founding editor Declan Meade and current editor Sally Rooney (also author of the recently acclaimed novel Normal People) in Smock Alley for €10. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of their magazine with the publication of anthology Stinging Fly Stories, Meade and Rooney will introduce a programme of readings and reminiscences by contributors past and present. Emilie Pine (author of the terrific personal essay collection Notes to Self) and Arnold Thomas Fanning (Mind on Fire: A Memoir of Madness and Recovery) will discuss the mental health, substance abuse, sexuality and bereavement issues which led to the publication of their memoirs. Taking place November 17 in Smock Alley, tickets cost €7. There are plenty of free events. On November 16, also at Smock Alley, there will be a poetry reading and conversation with writers Rosamund Taylor and Toby Buckley, as well as artist and activist

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Will St Leger. The three will discuss Irish LGBTQI+ poetry and the need for more marginalised voices. The festival will mark new anthology The Other Irish Tradition’s release. Celebrating experimental Irish literature, editor Rob Doyle will be in conversation with contributors to his book at Parnell Square’s Irish Writers Centre, November 17. Smock Alley will house a pop-up exhibition based on Fintan O’Toole’s book exploring the legendary Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw. Meanwhile, bookworms and tourists alike can join historian, author and Travel Ireland’s own Pat Liddy on the theatre’s steps for a stroll centred on the stories and writers inspired by Dublin. Tickets cost €10 with tours taking place November 17-18 at 11:30am and 2.30pm.

New books will be launched over the four days including broadcaster and critic Ciaran Carty’s Writer to Writer: The Republic of Elsewhere, the debut of Irish author John Fanning – Ezekiel and The History of Irish Book Publishing, the first comprehensive record and examination of the industry. Also worth noting is that special writers’ open mic night Takin’ the Mic returns to Dublin Book Festival, hosted by author and podcaster Sarah Maria Griﬃn (Spare and Found Parts, Juvenalia). Taking place November 16 at Smock Alley, all are welcome to perform. For more details and events, visit http://www.dublinbookfestival.com/

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Escape to the Country at the ‘First Class’ 4*

Abbey Castle Manor Hotel Roscommon

njoy a relaxing stay in the heart of the Irish Midlands at the award-winning four-star Abbey Hotel Roscommon, winners of the Best Hotel Restaurant Award for the county at this year’s Restaurant Association Food Oscars, as well as ranking as one of TripAdvisor's Top Rated Hotels in the Midlands for excellent customer feedback. Located only 25 minutes from Athlone and 90 minutes from Dublin, this 18th Century family run Manor House Property recently underwent a major refurbishment of its interior. Now it boasts luxurious new décor with plush lighting, furnishings and a modern restaurant. At the restaurant, the Abbey’s food menu features locally sourced produce, prepared by RAI Award Winning Chefs. The diverse dishes on offer include a Trio of Tapas, Seabass and Prawn Roulade, Braised Beef Cheek, Angus Sirloin Steak. There’s also a new dessert menu, including Green Tea Panna Cotta with Rhubarb, Raspberry & Lemon Bakewell Tart, as well as a healthy option with Baked Apple & Apricot Granola Cake served with Honey Crème Fraiche. Bar food is served daily from 4 – 9pm with a kids meal option. Meanwhile, also for children, the hotel can provide a babysitting service at an extra charge. Guests of the hotel have been 42

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praising it online. “The Abbey proved the perfect venue for our group of 20-plus. Comfortable rooms, well-appointed lounge, stocked bar and friendly personable service you would expect from a B&B but rarely in a hotel,” said John Casey. “Meanwhile, our group dinner rated among the best meals we had in Ireland. I highly recommend it for anyone traveling through the midlands.” Other guests reiterated John’s comments, praising the hotel for its historical connections, its gorgeous design and central location, as well as its ‘first class food and service’. Travel Ireland Readers can enjoy a relaxing one-night stay with a late check out with B&B for two adults and two children (under 12) for only €100. Also, there is a Romantic Overnight for two adults for only €85 with sparkling wine and chocolates included with the room. Both deals are book direct only and are not available online. Offers are valid until March 10, 2019. All guests can enjoy complimentary use of the hotel’s award-winning pool and leisure facilities. The hotel is also running a special Spring Weddings offer from only €45 for select dates in 2019 and 2020. To enquire about the hotel’s offers, telephone 090 6626240. One can also follow the hotel on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter or at www.abbeyhotel.ie.

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

Upstairs at Wood & Bell

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

A new restaurant by the celebrated former Ireland rugby player Keith Wood is now open in the lakeside village of Killaloe, Co Clare. Led by executive chef Paddy Collins, Upstairs at Wood & Bell features a succinct and assured menu offering classic, French-influenced dishes. Many of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own gardens which overlook Lough Derg and are managed by Keith’s wife, avid gardener Nicola Wood.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Main Street, Killaloe, Co Clare. Wednesday to Saturday, 5.30-9.45pm. Advance booking is advised. Tel: 061 517 480 Email info@woodandbell.com Facebook: / woodandbell

Eala Bhán

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Brasserie on the Corner

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate! Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333 NOVEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

A magical 18th Century Castle Manor Hotel located in Roscommon’s Hidden Heartlands

Special offer B&B with Sparking Wine & Chocolates only €85 for 2 sharing.

Family Offer 2 adults plus 2 kids only €100. Late Check out til 1 p.m. Subject to availability and not available for Weddings.

Book direct only offer Quote: Travel Ireland Magazine Tel 090 6626240

55 minutes from Ireland West Airport Knock 90 Minutes from Dublin Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 46

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2018

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall,

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

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Photograph Mark Nixon

Great Irish Writers

rish writer and playwright John B. Keane was born in Listowel, Kerry in 1928. With nine siblings and a father who taught at Listowel’s school, Keane spent most of his life in his home town. In 1955, he married Mary O’Connor with whom he had four children. They owned a pub in Listowel, where Keane would entertain regulars and tourists with stories. His pub was a great source of inspiration and watching the customers would often give him new ideas for his work. Keane is mostly known as a playwright. He wrote his second but most famous play, Sive, in 1959, telling the story of a young woman who is forced by her family to marry an older man, in exchange for money. Initially rejected by the Abbey theatre, Sive was first performed by a small theatre company and was a great success all over the country. This play was soon followed by dozens more, among them Sharon’s Grave (1960), The Field (1965) and Big Maggie (1969). Keane’s plays depicted rural Ireland of the mid-twentieth century, saying in very simple ways what was considered sometimes “too grotesque for words’’. He paid attention to the spirit and atmosphere of places, portraying a disappearing Ireland, with sometimes controversial subjects such as money and sex.

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JOHN B. KEANE His popularity grew rapidly, but critical acclaim eluded him. The author was disappointed by the lack of recognition, as he thought positive critics would be necessary for his success. His appreciation did arrive after a few years, as he was finally staged in the Abbey theatre, and received an award in 1987 for his enduring place in Irish life and letters. In 1999 he was rewarded with a Gradam Medal, the highest award from the Abbey, in recognition of his exceptional contribution to Irish cultural life. He also received an honorary doctorate from Trinity College Dublin, Limerick University and Marymount College, New York. Despite his death in 2002 at the age of 73 – after a long battle with cancer – his work lives on, continuing to garner the acclaim it deserves. Recently, Sive once again was resurrected, playing at the Gaiety Theatre starring Irish comedian Tommy Tiernan. Now, he returns to the same venue this month with The Matchmaker featuring Jon Kenny (d'Unbelievables) – based on his novella Letters of a County Matchmaker (read more on page 16). During his lifetime, he produced 32 works, which included several novels, essays, a book in Irish and a biography, called Man of the Triple Name. John B. Keane remains one of Ireland’s most prolific writers of the 20th century, as well as one of the nation’s best loved playwrights.