Travelireland v4 issue43 web by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland magazine

Volume 4 Issue 43 November 2017

Ross Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Carroll-Kelly takes over the Gaiety Theatre

to hilarious effect!

Yarn

Storytelling Festival

Cobh

Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

Epic

the Irish Emigration Museum

Wild Lights at

Dublin Zoo

Cork

Film Festival

5 Ancient sites over 5000 years old

Landmark Productions in association with MCD

ROSS O’CARROLL-KELLY

Postcards from the

Ledge starring

Rory Nolan

NOW G IN N N U R D N E T MUS OV 11 N

Written by Paul

Howard Directed by Jimmy Fay

GAIETY THEATRE TICKETS FROM €22 Gaiety Box Office and Ticketmaster 0818 719 388 | www.ticketmaster.ie

CONTENTS 4 6 8 10 11 12 14 15 16 18 19 20 22 24 26 29 30 31 32 34 36 38 39 40 42 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Welcome To Leinster Ross O’Carroll-Kelly Yarn Storytelling Festival Theatre Jonathan Swift Festival Smock Alley Theatre EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum Dublin Book Festival Wild Lights Dublin Zoo Explore Leinster Leinster Bars Leinster Restaurants Waterford Film Festival Welcome to Munster Cobh Heritage Centre: The Queenstown Story Miss Siagon Explore Munster Munster Bars Munster Restaurants Cork Film Festival Welcome to Connaught Connaught Bars Connaught Restaurants Shopping Five Ancient Attractions in Ireland Explore Connaught Welcome to Ulster Ulster Bars Ulster Restaurants Explore Ulster BBC Good Food Show Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our August issue. Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month sees a host of great festivals and events all across the country. Ross O’Carroll-Kelly enjoys the spotlight in his one man show at the Gaiety, we look at 5 ancient Irish sites over 5000 years old, film buffs are spoiled for choice with Cork Film Festival and Waterford Film Fesival taking place this month and bookworms young and old are catered for at Dublin Book Festival. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt Céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels)

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Jade Cox (jade@travelirelandmagazine.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Stephen’s Green Park through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Ross O'� C arroll-Kelly P o stc a r d s f r o m t h e L e d g e

oss O’Carroll-Kelly returns to the Gaiety stage to take his rightful place in the spotlight in his own one-man show. Audiences will be transported to the year 2029 where Ireland is in the midst of an economic boom and Ross is about to turn 50. Life could not be better for Ross. His wife, Sorcha, is the Taoiseach. His triplet boys are the backbone of the Castlerock College Junior Cup team. And he still does alright with the ladies. As the Managing Director of Hook, Lyon and Sinker estate agents, he spends most of the day with his feet up. But when a client rings and asks someone to put a valuation on 22 Glenageary Glen, a semi-detached house in Sallynoggin, Ross decides to do the job himself. The reason being that he recognizes the address as his childhood home. As he stands in the doorway of the run-

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

down, council-built house, the sediment of old memories is stirred up. And he takes us on a journey of remembrance, through happy times and sad times, laughter and tears, until he realizes that the job of putting a price on the house – and its treasure of memories – is impossible. Because it’s priceless. Directed by Irish Times Theatre Award winner Jimmy Fay, the show stars the award-winning actor Rory Nolan, who has played Ross since his stage incarnation over the past decade. Postcards from the Ledge is the fourth Ross O’Carroll-Kelly stage play. Paul Howard's character Ross O'Carroll-Kelly started life in a newspaper column almost twenty years ago. He has since become the star of a critically acclaimed series of books

that satirised Ireland during the years of its economic boom and bust and have sold well over one million copies in Ireland alone. Announcing the production, Paul Howard said: ‘I can’t believe it’s ten years since we entered the rehearsal room for the very first Ross O’CarrollKelly play, The Last Days of the Celtic Tiger. Being involved with Anne Clarke and Landmark Productions in the process of bringing Ross to the stage has been one of the greatest joys of my career as a writer. I’m really looking forward to working again with Rory Nolan, one of the finest actors of his generation, who first breathed life into the character all those years ago. And I’m delighted that we’ll be working with Jimmy Fay, the extraordinarily talented director, who has lent his magic touch to all three Ross plays so far.

‘I’m especially excited that this will be a oneman play and that the Rossmeister General will have the audience all to himself. He has quite a few things to get off his chest!’ Ross O’Carroll-Kelly himself declared: ‘Having been consistently overlooked by Warren Gatland, first as coach of Ireland, and still as coach of the Lions, it’s nice to be finally given a stage big enough for my talents. And this time I’m going to be the centre of attention!’ Rory Nolan said: ‘I’m utterly delighted to be back with both Ross and Paul, two of our finest men who’ve both been toying with my head and entertaining my life for the last ten years. I can’t wait for everyone to see it.’ This one-man show will run for 19 performances only from October 25th to November 11th at The Gaiety Theatre.

NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Yarn Storytelling Festival

Yarn Storytelling Festival Bray

Highlights include:

Betelnut Family Fun Day The Betelnut Café at Mermaid Arts Centre invite you to a free fun day as a massive thank you for all of your support over the past year. Families will be entertained with cupcake decorating, facepainting and, of course, stories galore.

Eddie Lenihan Eddie Lenihan, is an Irish author, storyteller, lecturer and broadcaster. He is one of the few practising seanchaithe (traditional Irish lore-keepers and tale-spinners) remaining in Ireland. He has been called "one of the greatest of Irish storytellers" and "a national treasure". Don’t miss your chance to join him in the unique setting of Bray’s Town Hall chambers – what better a place for him to weave his magic. Prepare to be spooked.

Len Cabral Len is an award-winning internationally acclaimed storyteller who has been enchanting audiences for decades. A great grandson of a Cape Verdean whaler whose grandparents immigrated to America from the islands off the coast of West Africa, Len’s strong Cape Verdean ancestry comes alive in his exuberant retelling of African, Cape Verdean, and Caribbean folktales as well as original stories and tales from around the world.

takes place from 11 – 19 November 2017. With a rich line up of both Irish and international storytellers, the programme has something for everyone.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Tour of the Stained Glass Windows at Christ Church, Bray. Have you ever wondered about the story behind stained glass windows? Well here is your chance to join Sarah Greene as she brings us on a guided tour. Many of the windows are memorials to people connected with Bray. Come to Christ Church to hear their stories and see for yourself the beauty of the windows, from the romantic style of Lavers & Barraud to the Celtic imagery of A.E. Child. Sarah Greene is the assistant archivist in Christ Church, with a particular interest in the history of these stained glass windows.

11 - 19

2017

Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

Nov, Cabaret 28 Nov - 2 Dec. Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre Let The Right One In

Yarn Storytelling Festival

Yarn Storytelling Festival Bray takes place from 11 – 19 November 2017. With a rich line-up of both Irish and international storytellers, the programme has something for everyone. 11 - 19 November Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre

A supernatural thriller and coming-of-age love story from the makers of Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. Oskar is a lonely, bullied teenager who lives with his mother on the edge of town. Eli just moved in next door. She doesn’t go to school and stays indoors all day. These two young misfits soon forge a deep connection but, when a series of mysterious killings plagues the neighbourhood, their friendship is tested beyond all imaginable limits. 18 Nov - 6 Jan

A one-man show starring Rory Nolan as Ross for 19 performances only at The Gaiety Theatre. 25 Oct - 11 Nov Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at The Gaiety this month; Romeo & Juliet 15-18 Nov, Rapunzel Pantomime 26 Nov - 7 Jan

The Olympia Theatre Sean Lock

Sean Lock is one of the UK’s most highly acclaimed and original comedians, making his stage debut over fifteen years ago. His standup is the product of a hyperactive imagination combining hilariously surreal imagery and insightful observations on the human condition.

Tel: 01 8872200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie

Nov 12-13

Also at the Abbey this month; Fire Below (A War of Words) 7-18 Nov

Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

The Gate Theatre Tribes

With excoriating dialogue and sharp, compassionate insights, Nina Raine crafts a penetrating, deeply moving and shockingly funny play. The Irish Premiere of this awardwinning play relocates the action from leafy suburban Hampstead to South County Dublin where Billy, born deaf into a hearing family, struggles to define who he is within his highly intellectual, yet emotionally possessive, clan. 28 Sept - 11 Nov

Also at The Olympia this month; Cassandra Wilson and Liam O’Maonlai 3 Nov, Boyce Avenue 4 Nov, Logic 5 Nov, Kaleo 6-7 Nov, Alice Cooper 8-9 Nov, Keith Barry 10-11 Nov, Rag N Bone Man 15 Nov, Brand New 16 Nov, Camille O’Sullivan 17 Nov, Rich Hall’s Hoedown 23 Nov, Shed Seven 24 Nov, Bagatelle 25 Nov, Wolf Alice 28 Nov, JP Cooper 29 Nov, The Last Waltz Live 30 Nov.

Smock Alley Theatre

Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

The Gaiety Theatre

The Great Hunger

Peter Duffy’s powerful theatrical performance of Patrick Kavanagh’s poetic masterpiece The Great Hunger has toured all over Ireland and abroad, to popular and critical acclaim including performances in the Irish Cultural Centre in Paris, the Cathedral Quarter Festival in Belfast, The Town House in Galway, Theatre Royal in Waterford and a very successful two week run in Smock Alley in 2016. Dates 13-16 Nov, 18, 25 November.

Miss Saigon

Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed new production of Boublil and Schönberg’s legendary musical MISS SAIGON — a recent smash hit in the West End — comes to Bord Gáis Energy Theatre as part of a major UK and Ireland Tour. Winner of a record-breaking nine Whatsonstage Awards 2015 including Best Show, this epic love story tells the tragic tale of young bar girl Kim, orphaned by war, who falls in love with an American GI called Chris — but their lives are torn apart by the fall of Saigon. 4 Oct - 18 Nov Also at BGE Theatre this month: Sunset Boulevard 21-25 Nov, Gilbert O’Sullivan 26

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Ross O’Carroll-Kelly, Postcards From The Ledge

Also at Smock Alley this month; Dublin Book Festival 2-9 Nov, Pulled 6-11 Nov, UNITE American Voices from an Irish Stage 23 Nov, Izumi Kimura 29 Nov Tel: 01 6770014 or visit www.smockalley.com

onouring Swift on the anniversary of his 350th birthday the inaugural Jonathan Swift Festival will take place from 23-26 November. The festival is run by Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin and collaborates with a number of cultural institutions across the city who have a historic or thematic link to Jonathan Swift’s life and work. In 2017 these include; Marsh’s Library, Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral, Trinity College, The Irish Writers Centre and St Patrick’s Mental Health Services. The festival will celebrate Swift’s legacy as a writer, satirist, poet and Dubliner of note. Animating the area around Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, the festival will be packed with surprising, unique experiences. Here are just some of the festival’s highlights:

The festival will open in St Patrick’s Park with a live light animation and a visit to the Cathedral for an exclusive opportunity to see the building after hours--and, of course, visit the grave of Swift himself. Later in the evening, there will be a free screening of Words upon the Window Pane, introduced by Jim Sheridan Following two sold-out shows at Vicar Street in August, Glen Hansard will bring his band to Saint Patrick’s Cathedral as part of the festival. Glen Hansard is known as a creative voice for social change through the arts. Tickets, which are €40, benefit charities working in areas of importance for both Jonathan Swift and Glen Hansard. Join Paul Howard, multi-award-winning journalist, author, playwright and comedy writer, and the man behind the eternally popular Ross O’Carroll-Kelly series, for a special evening

as part of the festival. Paul Howard’s use of Ross O’Carroll-Kelly, a fictional Irish rugby jock, reflects Swift’s own work featuring invented characters to critique the events of his time. Don’t miss this opportunity to hear from one of Ireland’s preeminent satirists and cultural critics on fiction, satire, and Ireland today. After 300 years, Gulliver's Travels still has much to teach us about the potential and pitfalls of travel literature. Manchán Magan’s workshop will use Gulliver's Travels as inspiration to coax writers towards a more focused form of travel writing - transforming the sights, sounds and soul of a journey into engaging prose with a strong message. This workshop will lay out techniques and practises to make one’s writing gripping, relevant and even revelatory.

NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Smock Alley Theatre by Pat Liddy

part from a couple of medieval cathedrals, parts of Dublin Castle, surviving sections of the city walls and the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, Dublin is essentially a city of the 18th century onwards. But some buildings, which look like they might belong to a later century, hide an earlier foundation. One such wonderful example is the Smock Alley Theatre in Temple Bar. Dublin’s first theatre opened in 1637 in Werburgh Street when Thomas Wentworth, the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, appointed John Ogilby as Master of the Revels and instructed him to bring performers over from London. Rebellion in 1641 saw the demise of this theatre and it was turned into a cow parlour! It would be 25 years, under the restored monarch, Charles ll, before another theatre opened in 1662, also manged by Ogilby. Only two or three theatres had previously been launched in London so Smock Alley, as the Dublin’s new playhouse was called on account of its location, is one of the oldest theatrical sites in these islands and certainly the oldest in Ireland. It was the first theatre outside London to receive the royal patented title of

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

The Theatre Royal. Smock Alley, an innovative theatre for its time (it was one of the first in the world to incorporate the invention of “footlights” on the stage) attracted some of the most talented and famous directors, actors and playwrights that worked in Great Britain or Ireland in the 17th and 18th centuries and they helped to put the institution onto the European map. Renowned managers (who were often themselves experienced actors or set designers) included John Ogilby himself, Spranger Barry and Thomas Sheridan among others. Celebrated players included Peg Woffington, David Garrick, Colley Cibber (England’s poet-laureate) and his daughter-in-law, Susannah Cibber, who was sister of Thomas Arne, the composer who also performed in Smock Alley in the 1740s. Arne is best known for his composition, Rule Britannia. Playwrights of the calibre of George Farquhar, Oliver Goldsmith and Richard Brinsley Sheridan, son of Thomas Sheridan, were employed. Richard went on to own the famous Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, London. His father, godson of Jonathan Swift, became manager of Smock Alley from the mid-1740s and made many important

improvements to the theatre and even to the neighbourhood when he succeeded in having un-seemly taverns and brothels closed to the better enhancement of his own domain. Every evening over 300 people were entertained in opulent surroundings under vast candle-lit brass chandeliers, not just by the main programme but by supplementary spectacles of juggling, acrobatics, dancing and musical interludes. Rowdy behaviour, often erupting from the pit where the single men sat, was commonplace and sometimes these unwelcome scenes burst into full-scale riots. Players and audience would be injured and then some of these young bucks would fight their way onto the backstage to meet the actresses, many of whom also practiced as prostitutes! More seriously, due to the theatre being built on reclaimed land from the river, structural defects emerged, and the

gallery collapsed on two occasions resulting in several deaths. Rebuilding in 1735 cured this problem but the end was not far off. Competition from other theatres emerged and Smock Alley, having become a little derelict and losing the title The Theatre Royal to a competitor on Crow Street, closed in 1787. It then became a whiskey store before being remodeled by 1815 into the Roman Catholic church of Saints Michael and John. In refashioning the former theatre minimal changes were made. The old walls were kept, the pits and lower areas turned into crypts. Old openings were closed and new ones made and the facades on both sides re-fronted. The entrance to the church was changed from Smock Alley (today’s Essex Street West) to Blind Quay (now Exchange Street Lower). A bell was added which was enthusiastically rung by the new parish priest, Father Michael Blake. This ended up in a prosecution as it was then strictly

forbidden for a Catholic church to ring a bell to announce Mass (the repressive 200-year old Penal Laws against Roman Catholics were largely still in force). The case, defended by the famous lawyer Daniel O’Connell who achieved eventual emancipation for Catholics, was thrown out of court. O’Connell came back to the church and joyfully rang the bell so much that he cracked it! That crack is still there. Due to a falling population the church closed in 1989 to become a Viking museum until 2002. Then the modern-day miracle happened. Under the inspired leadership of Patrick Sutton (the director of the Gaiety School of Acting) the former church was purchased and several million euro, very painfully fundraised, were spent on the magnificent refurbishment and conversion back into a theatre. Archaeologists found a treasure throve of everyday items from the past but, most wonderfully of all, most of the internal

and supporting walls were found to date from the original 1662 building. There was now a true and meaningful historical and built link between the old and the new Smock Alley Theatres. Smock Alley Theatre today, in its various performance spaces and Banquet Hall, presents a busy schedule of varied theatrical shows, dances, music, launch events, conferences and festivals, many presented by outside companies. In November the Book Festival has a programme from the 2nd to the 5th and this is followed for a few days each by Pulled, The Great Hunger, The Grand Inquisitor and The Murders at Wildgoose Lodge. For their December programme the theatre will present its very own Christmas family fare with Grimm Tale of Cinderella from 4th to 23rd December. For all information call 00 353 1 677 0014 or email info@smockalley.com. The Theatre is situated at 6-7 Exchange Street Lower, Temple Bar

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dodublin.ie NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Discover Discover how how the the Irish Irish Influenced Influenced and and Changed Changed the the World World EPIC EPIC The The Irish Irish Emigration Emigration Museum Museum is is a a museum museum re-imagined. re-imagined. It It will will inspire inspire and and guide guide you you on on a a journey journey to to discover discover the the stories stories of of Irish Irish emigration emigration around around the the world, world, from from early early times times to to the the modern modern day. day. Over Over the the centuries, some 10 million people have left the island centuries, some 10 million people have left the island of of Ireland. Ireland. At At EPIC EPIC you you can can step step through through 20 20 themed themed galleries galleries to to find find out out why why people people left, left, see see how how they they influenced influenced the the world world they they found, found, and and experience experience the the connection connection between between their their descendants and Ireland today. Immerse yourself descendants and Ireland today. Immerse yourself in in the the stories stories of of some some of of the the most most remarkable remarkable tales tales of of sacrifice, sacrifice, endurance, endurance, adventure, adventure, and and discovery discovery the the world world has has ever ever known. known. Suitable Suitable for all ages, EPIC brings these amazing stories for all ages, EPIC brings these amazing stories to to life life in in a a unique unique and and spectacular spectacular way. way. Founded Founded by by Neville Neville Isdell, Isdell, former former Chairman Chairman and and CEO CEO of of Coca Coca Cola Cola and and member member of of the the Irish Irish diaspora diaspora himself. himself. Neville Neville left left Ulster Ulster with with his his parents parents for for Northern Northern Rhodesia Rhodesia in in the the midmid1950’s and has subsequently lived and worked outside 1950’s and has subsequently lived and worked outside Ireland Ireland for for more more than than sixty sixty years. years. Designed Designed by by Event Event Communications, Communications, the the multi-award multi-award winning winning designers of Titanic Belfast, EPIC The Irish designers of Titanic Belfast, EPIC The Irish Emigration Emigration Museum Museum tells tells the the authentic authentic and and epic epic story story of of 10 10 million million journeys journeys and and the the roots roots of of 70 70 million million people. people. Located Located in in the the beautiful beautiful vaults vaults of of the the CHQ CHQ in in Dublin’s Dublin’s Docklands, the original departure point for Docklands, the original departure point for so so many many of of Ireland’s emigrants. Just a short walk from O’Connell Ireland’s emigrants. Just a short walk from O’Connell Bridge, Bridge, CHQ CHQ is is well well serviced serviced by by bus, bus, DART, DART, luas luas and and city city tour tour busses. busses. CHQ CHQ is is also also home home to to a a wide wide variety variety of of cafés, cafés, restaurants restaurants and and retail outlets including the EPIC Museum Gift retail outlets including the EPIC Museum Gift Shop. Shop. Leading Leading on on from from this this world world class class experience experience at at CHQ, CHQ, visitors visitors can can take take the the opportunity opportunity to to explore explore their their Irish Irish heritage heritage in in

the the Irish Irish Family Family History History Centre Centre where where they they will will have have access access to over 100 million Irish records. Operated by Eneclann to over 100 million Irish records. Operated by Eneclann -Ireland’s Ireland’s leading leading genealogical genealogical services services provider, provider, Irish Irish Family Family History Centre offer a new and exciting way to uncover History Centre offer a new and exciting way to uncover your your connection connection to to Ireland Ireland while while using using the the latest latest genealogical genealogical research research and and digital digital technology. technology.

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Book Book now now at at epicchq.com epicchq.com T:+353 T:+353 (0)1 (0)1 906 906 0861 0861 E: info@epicchq.com E: info@epicchq.com Open Open daily daily from from 10am 10am - 6.45pm 6.45pm (last entry is 5pm) (last entry is 5pm) CHQ, CHQ, Custom Custom House House Quay, Quay, Dublin Dublin 1. 1. 14

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Dublin

Book Festival

ow in its 11th year Dublin Book Festival will run from 2nd9th November 2017. As one of the country’s largest book festivals, it celebrates Irish writers and Irish publishing, across a range of genres, from politics to literary ﬁction, business, illustration and children’s literature, to poetry and Irish language events. The festival this year has an exciting schedule of events for older and younger readers alike. Smock Alley Theatre, Temple Bar is the central hub of the festival and this is where most of the events will take place, as well as in satellite venues around the city. The festival features an exciting mix of readings, public interviews, debates, book launches and workshops. Almost all events at Dublin Book Festival are free of charge. Highlights include: A panel of experts will be on hand to offer guidance on how to navigate the major issues parents face today in a Parenting themed event. Aileen Cox Blundell, author of the award-winning blog and book Baby-Led Feeding, Stella O’Malley, author of Bully-Proof Kids and Lucy Wolfe, author of The Baby Sleep Solution will be in conversation with Roisin Ingle (Sun 5 Nov, 1.30pm, Main Theatre, Smock Alley Theatre, €7/€5) Join a lively chat with Francis Brennan and RTÉ presenter Rick O’Shea, where Francis will share sage advice on the practical measures needed to ensure domestic bliss from

his latest book Francis Brennan’s Book of Household Management (Sat 4 Nov, 3.30pm, Main Theatre, Smock Alley Theatre, €7/€5) Six literary ladies discuss the ways in which artists can be supported within their own communities and work together to create your own opportunities in an event entitled ‘Stand in Awe of All Mná’ featuring Julieann Campbell, Gráinne Clear, Mia Gallagher, Sarah Maria Griffin, Felicity McCall and Freya McClements (Sat 4 Nov, 3.30pm, Irish Writers Centre) An engaging and motivational segment on healthy eating will see Journalist Rosemary Mac Cabe in conversation with: Adrian Martin, author of Fakeaway: Fast Food Made Health; Jane McClenaghan, author The Vital Nutrition Handbook; and Paula Mee, The Irish Times and RTÉ consultant Dietician and author of Gut Feeling (Sat 4 Nov, 3.30pm, Boys’ School, Smock Alley Theatre, free entry) Dublin City Public Libraries Readers’ Day this year will feature June Caldwell, Myles Dungan, Alison Jameson, Mary Kenny, Paul Lynch and Nuala O’Connor in conversation with Dave Kenny (Sat 4 Nov, 10am, Main Theatre, Smock Alley Theatre, €15 booking advised) Check out a lively discussion between two of Ireland’s most creative and celebrated writers: Roddy Doyle in conversation with Catherine Dunne (Sat 4 November, 6.00pm, Smock Alley Theatre, tickets €10/€8 concession)

Take a stroll through history with one of the many walking tours running throughout the festival, such as the Michael Collins Walk Tour, The Throne Room – Dublin Castle Walking Tour, Dublin History Walking Tour and Pat Liddy’s Literary Walking Tours (visit www.dublinbookfestival.com for tour times and booking info) Hear about the achievements of some the nation’s most distinguished yet overlooked figures at Ireland’s Notable Women with Clodagh Finn, Valerie Pakenham and Nell Regan in conversation with Martina Devlin (Weds 8 November, 8.00pm, Blanchardstown Library) Little bookworms can enjoy a huge variety of FREE activities this year, such as our annual Treasure Hunt, or take part in the Big Picture, where you can join some of Ireland’s best known children’s book illustrators to create a different drawing each day. Or simply take refuge from the cold in our indoor Winter Garden and curl up on beanbags with a book and hot chocolate! (The Winter Garden is open Fri 3 – Sun 5 November, 12.00pm – 5.00pm, Smock Alley Theatre, free entry) NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Wild Lights DUBLIN ZOO

This winter Dublin Zoo will be home to Wild Lights, a magical evening event, featuring giant colourful lanterns and illuminated animal sculptures all inspired by the wildlife that Dublin Zoo is so well known for. The enchanted lantern trail through Dublin Zoo will feature

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beautifully crafted awe-inspiring silk lanterns in the form of a pride of lions along with orangutans, tigers, giraffes, monkeys and more. Other highlights include a 16-metre high porcelain elephant tower and a 30-metre long Chinese dragon. Visitors to this must-see event will be wowed by Chinese

performers, while enjoying Chinese foods and warm drinks. Visitors can also check out the marketplace featuring handmade crafts from Chinese artisans. Lighting up the skyline of Dublin this awe-inspiring festival of lights promises to be an unforgettable experience where

friends, families and groups can come together during the festive period. Wild Lights opens on Friday 3rd November 2017 and runs until Sunday 7th January 2018 and tickets must be booked in advance. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out on this unique festive experience.

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Explore Leinster Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin Jameson Distillery Bow Street Following an €11 million makeover, the revamped Jameson Distillery has opened its doors with three new fantastic tours for visitors to enjoy. ‘The Bow St. Experience’ tasting tour focuses on the stories of Jameson’s rich heritage and on-going innovations and ‘The Whiskey Makers’ and ‘The Whiskey Shakers’ experiences which provide more in-depth whiskey and cocktail masterclasses, both including the opportunity to sample whiskey straight from a cask in the distillery’s new live maturation house. All tours are delivered with the assistance of cutting-edge technology making this an experience that demands repeated visits. www.jamesonwhiskey.com

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages. In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule. Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens by National Geographic and is one of the mustsee tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama. W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000

Viking Splash Tours Join Viking Splash Tours on a thrilling tour around the main sights of Dublin City - by land and water. Let the Vikings show you the sites and scenes of the capital city from a World War II amphibious vehicle – all whilst their Viking guides deliver an informative, entertaining and engaging commentary, ensuring all are captivated on this thrilling tour. www.vikingsplash.com

The National Museum of Ireland The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History and the Decorative Arts and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions detailing all aspects of Irish life down through the ages. Don’t miss the fantastic new exhibition Shadow of Sodeisha; Japanese and Irish art in Clay, celebrating 60 years of Japanese/Irish relations which runs in the National Museum of History Decorative Arts until February 2018. Admission to the museum is free all year round. Tel 01 677 7444

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

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Recommended Bars in Leinster

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

Ç§ definitely the place to be. Ä&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;ÇŚ Ä&#x17D;Ä&#x2019;Ä&#x160; Ä&#x160;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201C; Ä&#x2039;Ä&#x2014;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x2019; Í&#x2022;Í&#x2013; Ä&#x201C;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201C;

the celt

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18. 44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037

www.sin-e.ie

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The Brazen Head

Dating back to 1198, The Brazen Head is officially Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest pub. The many pictures and scrolls that adorn the walls will transport you back to a time when the famous old pub was frequented by the likes of James Joyce, Brendan Behan and Michael Collins. You might even spot a famous contemporary face or two in there enjoying the great food and drink or live music and storytelling that the pub is famous for.

Street 66

Street 66 is a new bar/venue, tucked away in the heart of trendy South Dublin on Parliament Street, just two minutes walk from Temple Bar and Dublin Castle. A great place for lovers of disco, funk and soul, and reggae with a wide selection of Gins, Irish Whiskeys, cocktails and craft beer. This dog friendly bar is designed for the global citizen who loves great drinks and great music. 33 - 34 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 01 6793369 www.street66.bar

20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8 01 6779549 / 01 6795186 www.brazenhead.com

The Celt Davy Byrneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

This famous old pub is steeped in history and has strong literary connections. The pub is famously mentioned in James Joyceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ulysses and Joyce was a regular patron when he lived in Dublin. Davy Byrneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s literary connections would continue down through the years with the likes of James Stephens, Liam Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Flaherty, Padraig Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Conaire and in later times Myles na gCopaleen, Patrick Kavanagh, Anthony Cronin and Brendan Behan all frequenting the pub. In more recent times, Davy Byrneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has become renowned for their quality pub-food, with seafood being a speciality. 21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 01 6775217

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Mykonos Taverna

Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin. Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices, all made from the freshest of ingredients from land and sea. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! Make sure you try their delicious homemade ice cream too, which is made on the premises. The perfect way to round off a fantastic Greek meal. 76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745 Email: mykonostaverna@dublin.com Web: www.mykonosdublin.com

Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality. 81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links

Situated just fifteen minutes from Dublin Airport, the Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links has a number of fantastic restaurants. The Seaview restaurant offers specialised seaview dining with magnificent views of the Velvet Strand and Dublin Bay while The Jameson Bar features live music every Friday and Saturday night. The 1780 is the newest addition to the dining offerings at the hotel. Under the command of decorated Chef Tom Walsh and Restaurant Manager Derek Yu, the restaurant exemplifies an ethos of casual fine dining. With locally sourced food that is prepared by Tom and his team, this delicately selected menu is certain to appeal to all.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Restaurant FortyOne

Strand Road, Portmarnock, Co. Dublin 01 8460611 www.portmarnock.com

Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven. 37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Camden Kitchen

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years. This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin. 41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

Chez Max

La Resérve Brasserie

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin! Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you.

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

Cirillo’s

La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

The 11th Waterford Film Festival will run between Fri 3 - Sun 5 November this year at Garter Lane Arts Centre. The Waterford Film Festival was established in 2007 by local filmmaker Stephen Byrne. His objective was to bring something new to Waterford's arts and cultural scene, promoting local, national filmmakers and writers, in particular independent film.

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The festival continues to go from strength to strength as it received several hundred projects from filmmakers and writers from across the globe and submissions are up by 25% from last year. Films and scripts came in from Ireland, Northern Ireland, England, Scotland , Wales, Canada, USA, Holland, France, Italy, Philippines, India and Australia. There is a fantastic mix of genres and stories which include thrillers, dramas, comedies and horrors. There is something in the programmes to suit everyone's tastes. Each short film programme runs for about 100 minutes and in that time you will see up to 10 films. The festival has two competitions; Best Short Film and Best Short Screenplay. There are several awards in each category and they will be

announced and presented on the last day of the festival. Part of the award for the screenplay competition is that the winner will have access to filming equipment and editing facilities with our partners at FilmLab. It is the aim of this award to support writers to make his/her film and to have it filmed in Waterford. The festival is funded by the Waterford City & County Council. Garter Lane Arts Centre will be hosting the event in their state of the art cinema in Dolby Surround Sound. For more information please go to www.waterfordďŹ lmfestival.net Tickets can be purchased from Garter Lane Arts Centre at www.garterlane.ie

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort, Ireland’s only Island Castle is set on an enchanted 310-acre private island. One of Ireland’s most acclaimed hotels, located on the River Suir, is accessed by private car ferry over the King’s Channel. The centuries-old site sits just downstream from its namesake city, the oldest City on the Emerald Isle.

aterford Castle offers the very best of Irish hospitality, surrounded by the gracious living of an elegant past with every modern comfort, service and convenience. The Castle’s 500-year-old history provides a stunning venue in the most beautiful surroundings imaginable. Recognized as the 7th of The 50 Best Hotels in The World & 3rd of the Top Ten Hotels of Europe by Condé Nast Traveler 2016 Readers’ Choice Awards. Past and present come together at Waterford Castle, where a rich and robust history blends seamlessly with contemporary comfort and luxury to make it a key component of Ireland’s Ancient East. Originally erected as a single stone tower during medieval times, Waterford Castle has evolved into an extraordinary internationally renowned destination, with magnificent halls and rooms, each ordained with fine art, period furniture and fixtures. Unique details can be found at every angle on the Castle structure from ornate original plaster ceilings to Elizabethan stone fireplaces. Settled by monks from the sixth to the eighth century, the island was taken and guarded by Danes during the Viking era. A long line of Anglo-Norman’s The Fitzgeralds owned and occupied the Castle as their home for eight centuries. Mary Fitzgerald a distinguished socialite who dominated the social world in the late 1700s to the early 1800s, was renowned for her amazing parties and spectacular events at the Castle. It is said that on her return to the family seat of the Waterford

Castle she would be rowed in state across the river with 24 musicians on her elegant barge. The love of celebrations continues today on the enchanted 310-acre private island, truly a dream destination. Dining at Waterford Castle provides an opportunity to taste the best of traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. The award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide and holder of two AA accredited Rosettes. The Resort’s Head Chef was awarded “Best Chef of Ireland 2017” by YesChef Ireland. Under his direction the award-winning culinary team uses only the finest local produce and creates a truly memorable fine dining experience. The Island Resort’s 16th Century

Castle offers luxury, security and privacy like few other destinations. Visit Ireland’s only Island Castle Resort, choose from the Castle's 19 bedrooms or the 45 Family Friendly self catering Island Lodges (sleeps six). Play on the 18 hole championship golf course or choose form the many other Island activities, tennis, falconry, clay pigeon shooting and let your adventures begin. Waterford Castle leave your worries at the shore… Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort, The Island, Waterford, Ireland T. +353 (0)51 878 203 E. info@waterfordcastleresort.com W. www.waterfordcastleresort.com

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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. 24

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One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story T

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and 1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of

emigration. Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

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French Courses Winter Term 20 November 2017 27 January 2018 French Activities for Adults, Teenagers, Children & Toddlers The French Language & Cultural Centre in Dublin 1 Kildare Street, Dublin 2 / www.alliance-francaise.ie

01/12/2015 14:08

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Miss Saigon at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre

he recent smash hit West End production of Miss Saigon comes to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month, running from Wednesday 4 October to Saturday 18 November. Since its London premiere in 1989, Cameron Mackintosh's production of Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schönberg's epic musical Miss Saigon has become one of the most successful musicals in history and was previously staged at the Point Depot in Dublin in 2002. The original Broadway production of Miss Saigon opened on April 11, 1991 with what was the largest advance sale in Broadway history ($37 million). The show went on to play for nearly ten years and 4,063 performances seen by more than 5.9 million people. Miss Saigon has been performed in 28 countries, over 300 cities in 15 different languages, has won over 40 awards including 2 Olivier Awards, 3 Tony Awards, and 4 Drama Desk Awards and been seen by over 35 million people worldwide. Cameron Mackintosh said, "It's hard to believe that it has been over 25 years since Miss Saigon first opened, but if anything, the tragic love story of the show has become even more relevant today. This new production, directed by Laurence Connor, takes a grittier, more realistic approach than the original production while still delivering the power and

epic sweep of Boublil and Schönberg's tremendous score. Of all my shows, Miss Saigon is the one that I have received the most requests from the public to bring back.” The new London production of Miss Saigon opened in May 2014 to recordbreaking advance sales and critical acclaim. Dominic Cavendish in The Daily Telegraph wrote, "This thrilling new production spills out beyond the theatre and speaks directly to the times we live in". The show swept the board at the 2015 Whatsonstage.com awards winning a record breaking nine awards, the most awards ever won by a single show in the 15-year history of the awards including Best West End Show and Best Revival of a Musical. Miss Saigon tells the story of young bar girl named Kim, orphaned by war, who falls in love with Chris, an American GI - but their lives are torn apart by the fall of Saigon. Miss Saigon features music by ClaudeMichel Schönberg with lyrics by Richard Maltby Jr. and Alain Boublil, adapted from original French lyrics by Alain Boublil, with additional lyrics by Michael Mahler. The new production is directed by Laurence Connor with musical staging by Bob Avian and additional choreography by Geoffrey Garratt. Production design is by Totie Driver and Matt Kinley based on an original

concept by Adrian Vaux; costume design by Andreane Neofitou; lighting design by Bruno Poet; sound design by Mick Potter; and orchestrations by William David Brohn. Now this incredible show comes to Dublin and it’s one that fans of musical theatre really can’t afford to miss. The show’s run also includes an ISL (Irish Sign Language) interpreted performance of Miss Saigon which will take place on Tuesday 7 November at 7.30pm. An ISL interpreter will stand on the stage and give a sign interpretation of the text sung or spoken by the actors and singers on the stage. So make sure you book your tickets early for what is guaranteed to be an epic evening’s entertainment as Miss Saigon lands in Dublin at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre. http://bordgaisenergytheatre.ie NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

Jameson Distillery Midleton

Cliffs of Moher

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience. The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site. Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Recommended Bars in Munster O’Neill’s Bar

O’Neill’s Bar/Mol’s Restaurant is located at the top of the town of Tramore. It’s one of the original family owned and run, bar & restaurants in Tramore. With its long standing tradition in sport it’s no wonder this bar is the main sports bar in the town. Since its renovation in 2015 the bar has gone from strength to strength with now one of the most comfortable and accommodating smoking rooms in the country. Live music every Thursday to Sunday ensures that your visit will be one you won’t forget. They also have a top class restaurant adjacent to the bar which serves excellent cuisine hosting a range of dishes sourced locally with the best Waterford has to offer

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration. The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 064 663 1037

Dick Mack’s

O’Neills Bar, Summerhill, Tramore, Co.Waterford

Jack Meades (under the bridge)

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1) NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort provides an opportunity to taste the best of traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. The awardwinning restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide and holder of two AA Rosette accredited. The Resort’s Head Chef Michael Thomas was awarded “Best Chef of Ireland 2017” by Yes Chef Ireland. Under his direction the award-winning culinary team uses only the finest local produce and creates a truly memorable fine dining experience. All this set aside the Munster Rooms warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls and ornate ceiling it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice. Waterford Castle offers an extensive wine cellar and cocktail hour in The Fitzgerald Bar with the winning mixologist Ilario is not to be missed. Start your magical evening with a short crossing over the King’s Channel by the Island Resort’s private car ferry, to the enchanted 310 acre Island Resort. Waterford Castle leave your worries at the shore… Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort |The Island |Waterford | Ireland Castle Tel: +353 (0)51 878 203 http://www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant

The Copper Hen

The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

La Boheme

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811 32

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

L’Atitude 51

Out of the Blue

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

The Smuggler’s Inn

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

This Wine Workshop and live music venue is open six days a week for morning coffee, lunch and light evening meals. They offer and impressive variety of wines and craft beers and were winners of the prestigious Georgina Campbell Wine Award of the Year in 2015. Their menu offers simple, seasonal food with a distinct French, Italian and Irish influence. 1 Union Quay, Cork Ph: 021 2390219 www.latitude51.ie

Cork Film Festival

he 62nd Cork Film Festival will take place across 10 days from November 10-19, showcasing the best in Irish and international film. This year’s festival will screen more than 200 films, with the majority being Irish premieres. Over 16,000 people are expected to attend Ireland’s first and largest film festival, which generates €2.5 million in revenue locally. The programme includes 115 feature films, including 34 documentaries and 116 shorts. Screenings take place at The Everyman, Gate Cinema and Triskel Christchurch. Opening the 2017 Cork Film Festival is the Irish premiere of Irish/Canadian co-production The Man Who Invented Christmas at The Everyman on Friday 10 November. Downton Abbey’s Dan Stevens assumes the role of Charles Dickens in Bharat Nalluri’s film, a festive romp that recounts how Dickens’ iconic A Christmas Carol was created. Other highlights of the festival include Ruben Östlund’s The Square, which won the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival this year and Documentary Gala, Promised Land, directed by Eugene Jurecki. The film looks at how America has changed since Elvis Presley died 40 years ago. Celebrating the best of home-grown talent, some of the most celebrated Irish films of the year will also feature at the festival. Frank Berry’s acclaimed Michael Inside will be screened on 16 November, telling the story of an 18-year-old living in Dublin who is sentenced to three months in prison after he is caught hiding drugs for his friend’s older brother. Following its successful screening at the Toronto Film Festival, the Irish premiere of gothic horror The Lodgers takes place on November 12. The Festival will present the screening

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

of short films produced under the Bord Scannán na hÉireann/the Irish Film Board’s Focus Shorts and Real Shorts schemes. Over 50 Irish short films feature in the programme, and for the first time, a selection will be invited to feature on the RTÉ Player post-festival. Shorts submissions, both nationally and internationally, exceeded 3,200 and the Cork Film Festival is the only Irish festival to have two awards with Academy Awards® accreditation. The winner of the Grand Prix Irish Short and the winner of the Grand Prix International Short, will automatically qualify for the Academy Awards® longlist. Guest Programme Director, Michael Hayden said: “This is truly a Festival for everyone, an opportunity to be challenged, inspired, surprised and entertained. From our Industry Days, to our popular Family and Schools programme, these 10 days in November offer the chance to enjoy films not otherwise available on the big screen in

Cork.” Illuminate will once again feature with a unique series of film and discussion events focusing on mental health. Presented in association with Arts+Minds and the HSE Cork Mental Health Services, screenings include 32 Pills: My Sister's Suicide, Colo, and Keep the Change. For a younger audience an increased Schools & Family programme runs this year, presented in association with the Irish Film Institute Education Department. Films include Red Dog: True Blue, along with Buffalo Rider and We’re Going on a Bear Hunt. The Festival will also screen the 40th anniversary re-release of Close Encounters of the Third Kind There is a special event to mark the release of Paddington 2 which takes place on November 11 from 10am at the Gate Cinema, with an adventure around the city in celebration of the marmaladeloving bear with a screening following at 11.30am.

AT THE HEART OF IRISH HISTORY FOR 800 YEARS OPEN DAILY FOR VISITORS Saint Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8, Ireland Phone 01 453 9472 Email info@stpatrickscathedral.ie WWW.STPATRICKSCATHEDRAL.IE

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Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

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Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

Monroe's

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Quays

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week. Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church! 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 38

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West. Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.” Sea Road, Galway City. Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Mourne Antiques

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Tights Department

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 40

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks. 25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands.

Since 1805, family-owned Mitchell & Son have been providing Fine Wines & Spirits to the people of Ireland. Now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of New & Old World Wines, Champagne, & fortified wines. Home to the Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of Irish, Scotch, & Japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. With a superb selection of Riedel Glassware and decanters, Coravin Wine System, and Le Creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in Ireland. Mitchell & Son also offer Wine and Whiskey Appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the Irish market and a chance to explore your tastes.

53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin, D01 FC89 Tel: 01 612 5540 www.mitchellandson.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

Dundrum Town Centre

Brown Thomas

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by If it’s a high end shopping experience that you’re owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years after, then Brown Thomas is the place to go. In this experience in the design and antiques business store you can find some of the world’s finest brands, so you know you’re in good hands when you including Armani, Baker, Chanel, Dior and Yves pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. Saint Laurent. The store offers personal shopping 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny services and an unrivalled range of corporate gifts and there is tax free shopping available for non-EU Co. Donegal 087 2434060 residents. www.amelias.ie 88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 01 6056666 Mackintosh by Francis www.brownthomas.com

The Kilkenny Shop

Irish Linen House

www.dundrum.ie

Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

This huge shopping outlet on the southside of Dublin is only minutes from the city centre and is easily accessible by car, bus or Luas. It’s certainly worth the journey because Dundrum has it all. Top names such as Boss, House of Fraser, River Island, Tommy Hilfiger and BT2 can all be found there. In fact, you could spend the whole day there, with great shopping, a cinema and a host of great restaurants to choose from. There is plenty of parking, WIFI available throughout the centre and they even have phone charging outlets. All of this combines to offer the ultimate shopping experience.

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

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This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

t n e i c n a e ﬁv

s n o i t c a r att in Ireland

Some of Ireland’s most historic ancient sites are over 5,000 years old and some even pre-date Stonehenge and the Pyramids of Egypt. For such a small island, Ireland has an incredible historic legacy that stretches right back to the ancient Megalithic, Mesolithic and Neolithic ages. All of these sites can be included in a visit around Ireland.

Brú Na Bóinne Brú Na Bóinne in the heart of the Boyne Valley in County Meath is a site made up of three different areas: Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. It is over 5,000 years old and one of Ireland’s most-visited historic sites. Brú Na Bóinne is the Irish translation of ‘Palace of the Boyne’. Newgrange is the largest and most well-known site. The site was Ireland’s first site to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and every year a special solstice winter celebration is held at the site.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Mount Sandel Mesolithic Site and Fort in County Derry Mount Sandel is now known as Ireland’s oldest identifiable archaeological site at almost 9,000 years old. The site was excavated by Peter Woodman of University College Cork in the 1970s. Woodman found numerous structures representing what would have been homes for Ireland’s first settlers in and around 7,000 BC. Located beside Mount Sandel Mesolithic site are also the remains of Mount Sandel Fort, an Iron Age fort. Visitors can access the whole area free of charge.

Céide Fields in County Mayo The Céide Fields span 1,500 hectares in the northern part of County Mayo. The area is considered to be one of the most extensive Stone Age visitor attractions in the world, with a series of field systems, ruined dwellings and megalithic tombs almost 5,000-6,000 years old. visitors can spend time in the awardwinning Céide Fields Visitor Centre to find out more about the site.

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery

Hill of Tara

Dating back almost 6,000 years, Carrowmore is one of the most significant megalithic areas in Ireland. The site has a large collection of megalithic tombs and is known to have had the largest megalithic cemeter y in Ireland, and oldest one in Europe, dating back to around 4000BC – 4500BC . There are almost 30 tombs remaining in Carrowmore today, visitors can find out more about the cemeter y at the site’s visitor centre and a restored cottage that lies within the grounds.

Some of Ireland’s first settlers arrived in this part of Ireland almost 6,000 years ago, with the remains of several monuments leaving evidence of this. What’s more, there is a small Neolithic passage tomb at the site, The Mound of Hostages, which is thought to date back as far a 2500-3500 BC. In addition to having monuments dating back some 6,000 years ago, The Hill of Tara also holds some of the most historic Celtic monuments in Europe. NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall,

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 46

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play. 48

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

BBC

Good Food Show The BBC Good Food Show will return to the Belfast Waterfront this November.

fantastic line up of home-grown food and drink producers will be exhibiting at the show this year, including Ballymaloe Foods from Cork, Barry John Gourmet Sausages from Cavan, Brady Family Ham from Kildare, Mienas Irish Handmade Nougat from Wicklow, Naturally Cordial from Wexford, The Foods of Athenry from Galway and The Jungle Food Company Ltd from Laois. With a line-up of top celebrity chefs and culinary experts the weekend will be full to the brim with demonstrations, tastings, chef interviews, book signings and more. Highlights of the event include: The Big Kitchen This unique theatre experience will bring guests closer to the celebrity and expert chefs who will be cooking up a storm and uncovering top tips for warming autumnal foods. Michelin-star chef Michel Roux, alongside Nadiya Hussain, The Hairy Bikers and MasterChef ’s John Torode are the top

demonstrations will also take place in the Big Kitchen theatre. These sessions will showcase home grown talent using the best of Northern Ireland’s produce to create inspirational dishes.

chefs and experts bringing recipes to life, live on stage. Eat like a Local BBC Good Food’s unique ‘Eat like a Local’

The BBC Good Food Stage After watching the chefs create mouthwatering recipes live on stage, the BBC Good Food Stage is the place for visitors to go get culinary queries answered as Good Food’s Editor-at-large Barney Desmazery, invites questions from the audience and chefs reveal the secrets of their success. A visit to the show offers a range of tasty eating and drinking options throughout the weekend including food-to-go, the Good Food’s own Pop-Up restaurant and delicious street food. Likewise, visitors can browse, sample, chat and buy from local producers at The Producers’ Village and The Food NI Pavilion or get great deals from big name cookery brands. NOVEMBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers

JONATHAN SWIFT

ften regarded as one of the greatest satirists the English language has ever produced, Jonathan Swift is an Irish writer who has left a lasting legacy. In fact Gulliver’s Travels, his best known work, is the most widely read book ever written in Ireland or by an Irish writer. However Swift was also a great supporter of Irish causes and also left the people of Ireland a lasting legacy upon his death. Born in November 1667 in Dublin, Swift spent his childhood in the care of his uncle Godwin. He was sent to one of the most prestigious schools in the country at the time, Kilkenny College, before attending Trinity College in Dublin. Having achieved his BA in 1686, Swift was forced to leave Ireland three years later when war broke out between the Catholic King James II and the Protestant William of Orange. Many Protestants of the time feared reprisals from the displaced and disadvantaged Catholics. This would inspire Swift to write one of his first known compositions To the King: On his Irish Expedition and the Success of his Arms in General. While in England, Swift became secretary to Sir William Temple, who became a patron and mentor to him. He would continue to write throughout the 1690s. Swift also returned to Ireland to become a priest in the Church of Ireland during this period. When Temple died in 1700, Swift completed the editing of his mentor’s memoirs. However, members of Temple’s family objected to Swift including a number of indiscretions in those memoirs and Swift returned to Ireland, taking up residence in Trim in Co. Meath. It was around this time that he began to gain a reputation as a writer, publishing A Tale of a Tub and The Battle of the Books during this period. Swift published these works anonymously as they proved to be controversial works. He would continue this practice for most of his life. Swift had hoped to secure a position at a church in England but Queen Anne considered A Tale of a Tub to be blasphemous and would not grant him a position in England. Instead he became Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin in 1713. Having gained a reputation as a pamphleteer in England,

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2017

Swift would use these skills to promote Irish causes. After the Declaratory Act of 1720, which insisted that the Kingdom of Ireland was dependent on Great Britain, was passed, Swift responded by anonymously publishing A Proposal for the Universal Use of Irish Manufacture which encouraged Irish people to use only home produced goods and reject English imports. This pamphlet enraged the English parliament and a reward was offered for the identity of the writer. Although it was an open secret in Dublin that Swift was the writer, no one identified him to the authorities, who instead unsuccessfully attempted to try Swift’s publisher for the crime. When the English iron-master William Wood was granted a patent to produce £100,000 of copper currency for Ireland, Swift responded with the first of his celebrated Drapier’s Letters. These pamphlets appealed to the Irish people, asking them to reject ‘Wood’s Halfpence’ on moral and political grounds and those of economic self-interest. Wood’s patent was later withdrawn and Swift was hailed as a national hero by the Irish Protestant ruling classes. A year later, in 1726, Swift first published Travels into Several Remote Nations of the World, in Four Parts, by Lemuel Gulliver, first a surgeon, and then a captain of several ships better known as Gulliver’s Travels. The book was an immediate hit, with three printings selling out that year, followed by another print in early 1727. The book is separated into four voyages, each with a different theme but all satirising human pride and the political climate of the time. To this day, it is regarded as a masterpiece of the English language and has been adapted many times for film and theatre. Swift would write prolifically for the rest of his life but he became increasingly plagued by ill health and died in October 1745. Throughout his life, Swift was concerned about his mental health and the bulk of his fortune was left to found a psychiatric hospital in Dublin. This hospital, St Patrick’s Hospital in Kilmainham, is still open to this day and offers a wide range of treatment programmes to those suffering with mental health issues.

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