Travelireland ireland magazine
Volume 6 Issue 61 May 2019
Get Ready to Dance in Dun Laoghaire
Dublin’s Great Gay Theatre Festival Returns National Museum Tackles Ireland’s Hidden Truths
Dublin’s Class Casino Scene The Luck of the Irish Dublin Festival Causes Dance Fever
Film Fans to Flock to Fastnet
In the Summertime An Irish Gig Guide
Spike Island
One of Europe’s Top Tourist Attractions
Armagh’s Apple Blossom Weekend – The Bright Cider Life
CONTENTS
4 Welcome to Leinster 6 Dun Laoghaire Concerts 8 Dublin Gay Theatre Festival 10 Theatre 12 Garden of Remembrance by Pat Liddy 14 National Museum Exhibition 16 Shopping 18 Explore Leinster 19 Dublin Dance Festival 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Leinster Bars 24 MCD Summer Concerts 26 Welcome to Munster 28 Explore Munster 30 Fastnet Film Festival 32 Munster Bars 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Cobh Heritage Centre 36 Spike Island 38 Welcome to Connaught 40 Connaught Bars 41 Connaught Restaurants 42 Explore Connaught 44 Welcome of Ulster 46 Ulster Restaurants 47 Explore Ulster 48 Dublin Casinos 49 Apple Blossom Weekend 50 Great Irish Writers
Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag
Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our May issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include Armagh’s Apple Blossom Weekend, the Fastnet Film Festival in Cork, the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival, Dublin Dance Festival and a brilliant National Museum of Ireland exhibition. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see this month and the best gigs to catch this summer, including three nights of music on Dun Laoghaire Pier over the June Bank Holiday Weekend. Pat Liddy takes a stroll in the Garden of Remembrance to mark the weather getting warmer while the magazine highlights Dublin’s great casino scene and Spike Island. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).
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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without
GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible
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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ
St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough
All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the
smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a
Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
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In the Heart of Dublin City Centre
Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.
81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie
Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.
www.thecelt.ie
The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
Open Air Summer Concerts
GET READY TO DANCE IN DUN LAOGHAIRE Three open-air summer concerts have been announced for Dun Laoghaire Pier on the June Bank Holiday Weekend.
Deacon Blue will be supported by Basement Jaxx (DJ Set) and Stereo MCs on Friday, May 31. Madness will headline on Saturday, June 1 and will be joined by Lightning Seeds and Something Happens. On Sunday, June 2, Primal Scream will perform with special guests The Charlatans and Fun Lovin’ Criminals.
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cottish pop rock band Deacon Blue return to Dublin following their sold-out Irish shows in the Irish capital and Belfast last year, celebrating 30 years of the group. With a massive catalogue of greatest hits from ‘Real Gone Kid’, ‘Dignity’ to ‘Chocolate Girl’, organisers say their set filled with careerspanning classics is not to be missed. Supporting Deacon Blue is awardwinning global dance legends Basement Jaxx, who rose from underground house sensations to releasing chart-topping international singles ‘Romeo’, Where’s Your Head At?’, ‘Do Your Thing’ and more. The English electronic duo has also taken home the BRIT Award for Best Dance Act twice. Joining Deacon Blue and Basement Jaxx is one of the most successful hip-hop acts to emerge from the UK, Stereo MCs. They will be performing some of their global hits from ‘Connected’, ‘Step It Up’, ‘Creation’, ‘Ground Level’ and ‘Deep Down & Dirty’. Having formed in 1985, the group have won multiple BRIT Awards, worked with Madonna and are notable for being one of the first hip-hop outfits to play rock music festivals.
On the second day of gigs, Madness will take their 40th-anniversary celebrations to Dublin. Fans of the legendary ska band can expect a show filled with classics from their chart-topping 40-year discography. The English group have released twelve studio albums chock full of greatest hits and live favourites from ‘One Step Beyond’, ‘House of Fun’, ‘Baggy Trousers’, ‘Our House’ to ‘It Must Be Love’ and many, many more. English rockers the Lightning Seeds make a highly anticipated return to Ireland. Again they will be supporting Madness, having done so at Dublin’s 3Arena last summer. Lightning Seeds will deliver a performance packed with all their greatest tracks from ‘You Showed Me’, ‘Lucky You’, ‘The Life of Riley’ and ‘Pure’ alongside some new music. Joining Madness and the Lightning Seeds are legends of the late 80s Irish music scene Something Happens. The Dublin pop-rock group’s live set is an unmissable trip down memory lane and will see them revisiting their unforgettable singles like ‘Parachute’ and ‘Hello, Hello, Hello, Hello, Hello (Petrol)’. The last day of gigs will see Primal Scream headlining. The Scottish rock
Photograph © Jean-Luc Brouard
dance group have released a handful of influential, ground-breaking albums over the last three decades including Screamadelica, XTRMNTR, Vanishing Point and Riot City Blues. They release a new, two-volume singles compilation in May ahead of the Dublin show titled Maximum Rock ’N’ Roll. It will feature all their famous tunes like ‘Rocks’, ‘Moving on Up’, ‘Come Together’. ‘Loaded’, ‘Country Girl’, Andrew Weatherall’s ‘Uptown’ mix, and ‘Some Velvet Morning’ featuring Kate Moss. Supporting Primal Scream is The Charlatans. Since their debut, the English rock band have released 13 LPs with their 2017 record Different Days becoming their 9th to reach the top ten on the album charts. Awarded a lifetime achievement award from Q magazine, they have a host of hit singles under their belt including ‘The Only One I Know’, ‘One to Another’ and ‘North Country Boy’. Joining Primal Scream and The Charlatans is multi-platinum New York City trio Fun Lovin’ Criminals. Covering styles such as hip hop, rock, blues, jazz,
R&B, punk, and funk, the band just celebrated the 20th anniversary of their debut album Come Find Yourself and in 2019 released new record Another Mimosa.
Tickets for all three summer concerts at Dun Laoghaire Pier are on sale from Ticketmaster outlets nationwide and www.ticketmaster.ie/.
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Dublin
Gay TheatreFestival
is a Gay Old Time
Over 20 diverse shows with LGBT+ themes will arrive on Dublin City Centre stages for the 16th International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival (IDGTF) from May 6 – 19, 2019. The event has secured productions from Ireland, UK, USA, Canada, South Africa and Australia to perform. Speaking about the programme, the festival’s artistic director Brian Merriman said in a statement: “New writing continues to dominate the selection process which also included visiting 50 productions at the Edinburgh Fringe.” “I am delighted that South Africa and Australian LGBT theatre return with new companies this year and acknowledge the great efforts these companies make to showcase their work at the world’s biggest 8
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gay theatre event in Dublin.” One highlight of the festival is A Southern Fairytale, starring 2017 Broadway World Best Actor Award Winner Ty Autry. Arriving in Ireland hot on the heels of movies like Boy Erased and The Miseducation of Cameron Post, the play – based on true events - is about a gay Christian growing up in the Deep South. It explores issues like excommunication and conversion therapy. A Southern Fairytale will be performed at The Teacher’s Club studio as part of a double bill from May 6 – 11 with Irish play The Number. The latter is a bittersweet
coming-of-age tale about the day in 1993 when homosexuality was decriminalized in Ireland. Another double bill at the same time in the Pearse Centre is linked by female protagonists. A Drunk Lesbian Love Affair is a one-person show, performed and penned by Thalia Gonzalez Kane which chronicles the escapades of Sally and her ‘drunk lesbian lover’ through a haze of whiskey and wine. Joining it is Cello, in which a grieving daughter discovers letters left by her deceased father, a passionate cellist. The letters bring to life her father's love for a man called Bill, a cello maker. From May 6 – 11 in The Teachers Club Main Hall is The Baby Monitor, a 2014 National New Play Network finalist exploring the challenges and bias associated
with same-sex parenting. Meanwhile, for something lighter at the same time, check out US comedian Woody Shticks’ Schlong Song at the Players Theatre and Julie Gieseke’s comic one-woman-show Borderline A**hole at the Pearse Theatre. In the festival’s second week – from May 13 – 18 – there are two more double bills. The first takes place at the Pearse Centre and consists of The Little Pink Book of Masculinity, a hilarious play about a 22-year-old man trying to navigate the gay community, and The Measure of a Man, a one-man-show from Australian and 2016’s Globe Artist of the Year Gavin Roach making his Dublin debut. The second double bill is made up of two American plays and is happening at The Teachers Club Studio. Obligatory Scene is a challenging and engaging two-woman theatre piece exploring sexual assault, from world-renowned playwright Carolyn Gage. It will be performed alongside Miss Furr and Miss Skeene, an adaptation of Gertrude Stein’s word portrait of the same name by Dublin Gay Theatre Festival outstanding female performance winner Lynda Sturner. Speaking of Stein, the Teachers Club Main Hall will host South African company Gottaluvit’s play and Fleur Du Cap nominee Gertrude Stein and a Companion at the same time. A tender story of love and loss, it delves into the extraordinary relationship between the legendary writer and her long-time companion Alice B. Toklas. Another highlight of the festival is UK National Octagon prizewinner All I See is You, being performed at the Players Theatre from May 13 – 18. Inspired by real accounts of queer life from 50 years ago, the play documents the forbidden passion between two men in the years before the 1967 Sexual Offences Act partly decriminalised homosexual acts. At the same time, the Players Theatre will also host Velvet, a semi-autobiographical piece from Tom Ratcliffe. Set against the backdrop of the 2017 #MeToo movement, the play explores the complex realities of harassment within the British entertainment industry and
how far a person is willing to go in order to achieve their dreams. Also from May 13 – 18, there will be Revolting Women: A Rebel Cabaret at The Teachers Club Main Hall. After directing feature-length documentary Outitude about the Irish lesbian community, Sonya Mulligan brings this empowering new work to IDGTF. Another noteworthy play is Party Boy from the festival’s artistic director Brian Merriman. Playing at the Players Theatre, it tells the true story of Ireland’s first international gay go-go dancer. There will also be a free play reading of Merriman’s work Quilt, that will take place at The George Bar on Sunday, May 12. It centres on the AIDS crisis of the 1980s and uses testimonies from lovers, volunteers, activists, sons, daughters, husbands, wives and parents to show how HIV knew no discrimination from celebrity to the marginalized. For IDGTF’s full programme, performance times and ticket information, visit www. gaytheatre.ie/.
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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre
Cotton Fingers by Rachel Trezise
The Abbey Theatre
Citysong by Dylan Coburn Gray
control, they are being moved to three separate nursing homes. The play is set around their last few hours together. Dates: May 9 - 11 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie
The Gaiety Theatre Described as not just a play but a poem and a chorus of voices, Dylan Coburn Gray’s Verity Bargate Award-winning work centres on three generations of a Dublin family on one day. Featuring teen discos, late night taxis, home nurses, Jewish launderettes, vigilantes, babies, immigrants and seagulls, the Abbey describe it as ‘intimate and sweeping, cerebral and compassionate, joyous and ridiculous.’
Set in Belfast, Cotton Fingers tells the story of a young woman making the journey to Wales to access free NHS abortion care. Amy Molloy (’71, The Fall) will perform in this bold, coming-of-age one-woman show about the cycles of secrecy and the power young women hold over their futures. Dates: Jun 1 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: The Matchmaker May 23, The Experience of Being May 30.
Bord Gáis Energy Theatre The King and I by Rodgers and Hammerstein
This multi award-winning Broadway production of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s classic musical is coming to Dublin direct from its recordbreaking sold-out season at The London Palladium. Set in 1860’s Bangkok, it tells the tale of a British schoolteacher invited by the King of Siam to teach his many wives and children English and Western customs. Featuring songs like Getting to Know You, Shall We Dance and Whistle a Happy Tune, star Jose Llana told Travel Ireland Magazine in an interview available to read on our website that The King and I is ‘a show you can bring your kids and your grandkids to, one where you can learn some beautiful lessons’. Dates: May 21 – Jun 1 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gáis this month: RuPaul’s Drag Race: Werq the World May 8 – 18, Showstopper! The Improvised Musical May 9 – 11. 10
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Dates: May 25 – Jun 8 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: Trad Apr 30 – May 11, Session May 10 – 11, Le Natura Delle Cose May 14 – 15, BAOITE May 17 – 25, Rosas Danst Rosas May 18 - 19.
The Gate Theatre
The Glass Menagerie by Tennessee Williams
A tragic semi-autobiographical tale of family, love, truth, and illusion, The Glass Menagerie catapulted its playwright Tennessee Williams (A Streetcar Named Desire) to stardom. Set during the Great Depression of 1930s America, the memory play tells the story of Tom, a young man longing to escape the gloomy St. Louis apartment he shares with his overbearing and histrionic mother Amanda and shy sister Laura. The story of this fractured American family is told through Tom’s narrative voice and skewed memories. Dates: Apr 25 – Jun 1 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie
The Olympia Theatre
3 Hail Mary’s by Tommy Marren
Avenue Q / Amelie The Musical
Two very different types of musicals will be performed at the Gaiety this month. The first Avenue Q is from some of the people behind The Book of Mormon and Disney’s Frozen. It centres on a group of cheeky but lovable characters on a downtown New York street trying to make sense of life’s burning issues. They also happen to be puppets. Meanwhile, Amelie The Musical is a stage musical adaptation of the acclaimed runaway French hit film Amelie. It tells the story of the titular character, a young woman who lives quietly in the world, but loudly in her mind. She secretly improvises small, but extraordinary acts of kindness that bring happiness to those around her. Dates: May 13 – 18 / May 28 – Jun 1 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: The Comedy About a Bank Robbery May 7 – 11, The Magic Flute May 21 – 25. Meanwhile, at Dublin’s Citywest Hotel is Disney on Ice from May 10 – 12.
Smock Alley Theatre
Writers in the Stars We have lost many great writers over the years. Where are they now? According to Writers in the Stars, they are in heaven arguing over who is the greatest. Join Oscar Wilde, Mary Shelley and their friends as they ask audiences to help them decide who is truly the best writer of all time in this light-hearted celebration of the English-speaking world’s literary giants. Dates: May 6 - 11 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com
A rip-roaring comedy taking Ireland by storm, 3 Hail Mary’s centres on three characters named Mary who have lived in a nursing home together for over 10 years and have become great friends. However, due to circumstances beyond their
Also at Smock Alley this month: A Chorus Line May 2 - 4, Pumpgirl May 12, American College Dublin Musical Theatre Final Year Showcase May 16, American College Dublin Musical Performance May 17.
The site chosen was once part of the pleasure gardens of the nearby Rotunda Lying-in Hospital, perhaps the oldest maternity hospital in the world, first founded in 1745. The gardens themselves provided the historic setting for the inauguration in 1913 of the Irish Volunteers, the organisation that provided most of the fighting rebels in the 1916 revolution. It was very appropriate then that the memorial to all the Irish who died fighting for Irish freedom should be erected at this location. The site at the northern end of the former gardens was purchased in 1939 but further work was delayed due to the outbreak of the Second World War. In 1946, the City Architect, Daithi P Hanly, designed the layout but further delays meant the opening didn’t happen until twenty years later The main central theme is a sunken cruciform-shaped pool of still water. All along the tiled floor of the pool are representations in mosaic of ancient weapons such as spears and shields. Several of the spear shafts are broken. The symbolism here represents the Celtic tradition following a battle victory or when a peace between enemies was brokered of throwing a selection of weapons into the nearest river. The railings dividing the raised grassed areas carry motifs of the Irish harp and the bronze war trumpets of Ireland’s Heroic Age (around 500BC).
Garden of
Remembrance By Pat Liddy
Many cities around the world have memorials honouring those who lost their lives in their own country’s struggle for independence from an outside power. Dublin is no different except in the unusual yet striking treatment of the subject. The Garden of Remembrance, situated off Parnell Square, was opened in 1966 on the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising, a seminal uprising during Easter Week 1916, which, although a military failure at the time, eventually led to Ireland’s independence from Great Britain in 1922. President Éamon de Valera, who performed the opening ceremony, was himself a rebel commander in 1916. 12
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The most outstanding feature of the garden is the enormous bronze statue group on the stepped area at the far end to the entrance. Added in 1971, the sculpture, designed by Oisin Kelly, is called the Children of Lir and was cast at the Marinelli Foundry in Florence. It is intended to show that people and nations are often changed utterly by significant events in their history. It is based on an Irish mythological story of the four children of King Lir being changed into swans by their jealous and wicked stepmother. Condemned to wander the earth for 900 years the four hapless siblings were only restored to human form when they supposedly met St
Patrick but promptly expired on the spot because of their unimaginable age. Most unfair!
nations where the dominion of one over the other for hundreds of years led to so much violence, tragedy and bitterness.
Engraved onto a section of the screen wall behind the statue group are the words of a poem, We Saw a Vision by Liam Mac Uistin, part of which goes as follows: “In the Winter of Bondage we saw a vision … Winter became summer. Bondage became freedom and this we left you as your inheritance. O generations of freedom remember us, the generations of the vision.”
The garden is lined with flower containers and benches for people to take their ease and perhaps reflect on the meaning of the park, but, as you might expect, the visitors are often just local office workers taking their break in peaceful surroundings or sunning themselves under Dublin’s elusive celestial orb.
In 2011, Queen Elizabeth ll laid a wreath in the Garden of Remembrance during her state visit. It was seen by most people as a great act of final and total reconciliation between two neighbouring
Under the caring management of the Office of Public Works, the Garden of Remembrance is freely open to the public from 08:30 to 18:00 April to September and from 09:30 to 16:00 October to March.
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National Museum to
(A)ddress
Ireland’s Hidden Truths The National Museum of Ireland is currently showcasing Alison Lowry’s exhibition ‘(A) dressing our Hidden Truths: An artistic response to the legacy of mother and baby homes and Magdalene Laundries.’
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The museum describes Lowry as ‘a rather unique artist in the European context.’ Through the medium of glass, she tackles discomforting topics such as child abuse and domestic violence. According to the museum, “There are parallels in this regard with other media primarily that of painting by way of theme. But there is no artist working in glass who so pointedly and effectively comments on the political, social and emotional fallout from such events as Alison Lowry.” The Magdalene Laundries, also known as Magdalene asylums, were institutions usually run by Roman Catholic orders, which operated from the 18th to the late 20th centuries. They were established to house “fallen women”, the term used to describe those judged as having fallen from the grace of God. Often imprisoning young women who became pregnant out of wedlock, an estimated 30,000 were confined in these institutions throughout Ireland. (A) dressing our Hidden Truths is divided into four distinct areas. These are an installation of suspended sand-cast pâte de verre (glass paste) christening robes, sculptural works responding to the theme of the Magdalene Laundries, a video piece made with performance artist Jayne Cherry and a suit of armour using glass and leather created with the internationally renowned designer Úna Burke.
first place in the category, ‘Glass Art’ at the Royal Dublin Show in 2009 and 2015, the Silver medal at the Royal Ulster Arts Club’s Annual Exhibition in 2010, the Warm Glass Prize in 2010 and 2011 and more recently the Bronze Award at Bullseye Glass’ ‘Emerge’ exhibition. Lowry exhibits both locally and internationally and her work is held in several public collections. She employs a range of techniques to create her sculptures, working primarily with cast glass and pâte de verre. Her art ranges from small vessels and framed pieces to larger sculptural works. (A) dressing our Hidden Truths is on display in the Decorative Arts and History section of the museum in Collins Barracks, Dublin 7. There it will run until May 2020. Like all of the National Museum of Ireland’s exhibitions, entry to (A) dressing our Hidden Truths is free. The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00am to 5pm and Sunday to Monday from 1.00pm to 5.00pm. There is a gift shop and café on site. For more information about the (A) dressing our Hidden Truths exhibition, see www.museum. ie/Decorative-Arts-History/Exhibitions/CurrentExhibitions/(A)dressing-our-Hidden-Truths. Meanwhile, visit www.museum.ie/en/homepage. aspx for details of the National Museum’s other ongoing events and activities. MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
Copyright Alison Lowry, photography by Glenn Norwood
Amongst the exhibition’s highlights is an installation of nine christening robes in pâte de verre spread across two rooms, suspended - as Lowry highlights in a video posted by the National Museum - like ‘ghosts’. The museum describes the work as a ‘profound piece of commentary on the Tuam Mother and Baby Home revelations’. In 2016 and 2017, excavations carried out on the site of the former Bon Secours Mother and Baby Home in the town of Tuam, Co Galway uncovered a significant quantity of human remains aged from 35 foetal weeks to three years. Another striking piece of art within (A) dressing our Hidden Truths is numerous glass scissors hovering over a pile of hair. According to Lowry, the work illustrates ‘the punishment used to keep the women in line.’ In the laundries, women and children who tried to escape or broke the rules had their heads shaved involuntarily. Part of the exhibition is also audio testimony by way of poetry and song from some of those who experienced the cruelty of the industrial school system and Magdalene Laundries. Lowry works from her studio ‘Schoolhouse Glass’ in Saintfield, Co Down. In 2009, she graduated from the University of Ulster with a first class Honors degree in Art and Design. Since then she has won numerous awards including
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Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre
Courtville – Matthew Weldon
Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets
Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.
www.powerscourtcentre.ie
Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com
Jam Art Factory
Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2019
Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 01-6794042
Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.
Celtic Whiskey Shop
Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
Mourne Antiques
Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)
Designer Exchange
Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd
Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com
Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop
The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com
James Fox
Puro
Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406
The Kilkenny Shop
Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie
Mackintosh by Francis Campelli
Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com
Irish Linen House
For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie
Amelia’s Irish Design
Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774
46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com
Article
This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Leinster
The Chester Beatty Library
The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816
Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie
Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin
If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750
The National Museum of Ireland
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie
Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie
Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2019
Everybody Dance Now
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Dublin Dance Festival
he 15th edition of the Dublin Dance Festival will celebrate awe-inspiring and thoughtprovoking dance from across the globe, taking place throughout the Irish capital May 1 – 19. Opening with RIOT starring Panti Bliss and closing with master of contemporary dance Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker, this year’s programme offers the chance to witness ground-breaking work from legendary artists. It also provides a space to contemplate the politics, environment and technology of our spinning world, and for everybody to cut loose, party and dance. Worldwide smash hit sensation RIOT from THISISPOPBABY will launch the festival from May 1 - 4 with a bang in Vicar Street after setting hearts alight around the globe. Uniting stars of Irish stage and screen, this disorderly cocktail of bangin’ jigs, mind-blowing moves, jaw-droppingly sexy circus and gut-punching spoken word will leave audiences dazzled, dizzy and ready to change the world. The Abbey Theatre will be home to various pioneers of the artform. Session (May 10 – 11) will see leading Irish dance artist Colin Dunne perform with Olivier Award-winning Flemish-Moroccan choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. In this unique exploration of movement and
sound, these two performers draw on the rich rhythmical and sonic aspects of Dunne’s traditional Irish dance, joined on stage by composer Michael Gallen and musician Soumik Datta. Former Dance Director of the Venice Biennale Virgilio Sieni makes his Irish début in the Abbey with the overwhelmingly beautiful La Natura Delle Cose (May 14 – 15). In this hypnotic and exquisite production, five dancers portray a character moving through the entire cycle of life in one hour. An undisputed masterpiece will bring the festival to a close in the same venue – Rosas danst Rosas by Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker (May 18 – 19). Created in 1983, this piece for four female dancers showcases a tension that is characteristic of De Keersmaeker’s work; where structure contrasts with emotion, and
aggression with tenderness. Another highlight of the festival is Phoenix by Eric Minh Cuong Castaing, taking place in the Project Arts Centre on May 11. A collaboration between French and Palestinian artists, the show starts playfully, as drones on stage interact with three performers. Then a live connection is made via Skype with artists in Gaza who live with the constant threat and roar of drones. They share their dances and experiences - their artform, an act of resistance. The festival has an excellent programme of events for younger audiences too. The gorgeous playful adventure W.A.M. We Are Monchichi by company Wang Ramirez is for ages 7+, but is sure to delight little ones and grown-ups alike. Presented at the O’Reilly Theatre May 11 - 12, two performers mix storytelling, hip-hop, classical and contemporary dance, as they playfully search for harmony in today’s multicultural world. These are just some of the many enthralling events set to take place at Dublin Dance Festival 2019, with a jampacked programme including stunning performances, an epic hip-hop battle in Temple Bar, film screenings, workshops, discussions, free family events and lots more. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit dublindancefestival.ie. MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant
Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050
Le Bon Crubeen
Silken Thomas
Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com
Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.
Peploe’s
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com
Cliff Townhouse
Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie
81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie
Mexico to Rome
Zaytoon
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Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie
3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2019
Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie
ASADOR
Café Topolis
The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie
La Ruelle Wine Bar
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961
Cirillo’s
‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.
The Left Bank Bistro
Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie
Salamanca
Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.
Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.
140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie
1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Recommended Bars in Leinster
The Duke
Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553
Sin É
Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is
ǧ definitely the place to be. ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē
Dingle Whiskey Bar
The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn O’Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.
the celt
Grogan’s
44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320
The Confession Box JT Pim’s
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The Celt
Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.
Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.
4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645
81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie
TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2019
One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028
National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History Collins Barracks, Benburb Street, Dublin 7 Sunday & Monday 1pm - 5pm Tuesday – Saturday 10am - 5pm Luas Red Line ‘Museum’ stop
Admission Free www.museum.ie
AN ARTISTIC RESPONSE TO THE LEGACY OF MOTHER AND BABY HOMES AND MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
In the Summertime An Irish Gig Guide
Persian Cuisine
14-15 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 1 - 01 677 3595 44/45 Lr Camden St., Dublin 2 - 01 400 5006 Delivery Number 01 4005700
Established in January 2000 Zaytoon restaurants have two branches in 14/15 Parliament street and 44/45 lower Camden street. They are casual diners offering delicious kebabs served with freshly made naan bread which is cooked in a traditional Persian clay oven. Often referred to as having the best kebabs in Ireland. Here at Zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. All our meat and poultry are Irish and fully traceable. By day Zaytoon is full of tourists and business people, by night it’s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs!
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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MAY 2019
S
ome of the world’s greatest living musical artists are set to grace the Emerald Isle with their presence this summer, performing at venues across Ireland. In May, alongside three days of gigs from the likes of Deacon Blue, Madness and Primal Scream at Dun Laoghaire Harbour from May 31 – Jun 2 (for more information see page 6), Dublin’s 3Arena will be hosting a few legendary performers. May 14 will see influential hip-hop groups Wu-Tang Clan, Public Enemy and De La Soul come together in the venue for Gods of Rap. The tour was set-up to mark the anniversary of each of the bands’ most acclaimed albums – Wu Tang Clan’s Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers), Public Enemy’s It Takes A Nation of Millions to Hold Us Back and De La Soul’s 3 Feet High and Rising. Promoting her most recent record Caution, global superstar Mariah Carey can also be seen in the 3Arena May 22, followed on May 23 by Irish rock band Walking on Cars. Meanwhile, over in Croke Park May 24, the Spice Girls kick-off their 2019 UK & Ireland Stadium Tour. It’s their first time reuniting on stage since the London 2012 Olympics. The next month is an even busier time for live music. Canadian crooner Michael Buble will play two nights at the 3Arena June 6 and 7, followed on June 8 by American worldrenowned magician David Blaine. Fans of American rock should also be happy as heavy metal legends Metallica enter Slane Castle also June 8. They will be followed the next week by Bon Jovi, playing two-nights in the RDS June 15 and 16.
Gig
Venue
Date
Gig
Venue
Date
Gods Of Rap Mariah Carey Walking On Cars Spice Girls Snow Patrol Kodaline Kodaline Nile Rodgers & Chic Deacon Blue Madness Primal Scream Michael Buble Michael Buble Snow Patrol David Blaine Metallica The Cure Fleetwood Mac Mumford & Sons Mumford & Sons Bon Jovi Bon Jovi NGHFB
3Arena 3Arena 3Arena Croke Park Ward Park St. Anne’s Park St. Anne’s Park St. Anne’s Park Dun Laoghaire Harbour Dun Laoghaire Harbour Dun Laoghaire Harbour 3Arena 3Arena Malahide Castle 3Arena Slane Castle Malahide Castle RDS Malahide Castle Malahide Castle RDS RDS Malahide Castle
Tues 14 May Weds 22 May Thurs 23 May Fri 24 May Sat 25 May Fri 31 May Sat 1 Jun Sun 2 Jun Fri 31 May Sat 1 Jun Sun 2 Jun Thurs 6 Jun Fri 7 Jun Fri 7 Jun Sat 8 Jun Sat 8 Jun Sat 8 June Thurs 13 June Fri 14 June Sat 15 June Sat 15 June Sun 16 June Sun 16 June
P!nk George Ezra George Ezra Walking On Cars Lana Del Rey The Coronas Liam Gallagher Hozier Lauryn Hill Vampire Weekend Foals Janelle Monae Paul Weller Longitude Paul Heaton & Jacqui Abbott Westlife Longitude Stereophonics Westlife Longitude New Order Love Sensation Love Sensation Foo Fighters Post Malone
RDS Irish Independent Park Malahide Castle Irish Independent Park Malahide Castle Irish Independent Park Irish Independent Park Irish Independent Park Irish Independent Park Trinity College Trinity College Trinity College Trinity College Marlay Park Trinity College Croke Park Marlay Park Trinity College Croke Park Marlay Park Trinity College RHK RHK RDS RDS
Tues 18 June Thurs 20 June Fri 21 June Fri 21 June Sat 22 June Sat 22 June Sun 23 June Tues 25 June Weds 26 June Mon 1 July Tues 2 July Weds 3 July Thurs 4 July Fri 5 July Fri 5 July Fri 5 July Sat 6 July Sat 6 July Sat 6 July Sun 7 July Sun 7 July Sat 17 Aug Sun 18 Aug Weds 21 Aug Thurs 22 Aug
Not all the fun is in Dublin. Cork venue Irish Independent Park will also be hosting Irish acts Hozier (June 25), The Coronas (June 22) and Walking on Cars (June 21), as well George Ezra (June 20), Oasis’ Liam Gallagher (June 23) and the Fugees’ Lauryn Hill (June 26). Also, during this time global superstar Lana Del Rey will perform at Malahide Castle June 22. July kicks off with a bang with the Trinity College Summer Series. While many will be flocking to see the likes of Vampire Weekend (July 1), Foals (July 2), Paul Weller (July 4), Paul Heaton & Jacqui Abbott (July 5), Stereophonics (July 6) and New Order (July 7), we recommend trying to catch Janelle Monae’s show on July 3. Having released one of the best albums of 2018 with Dirty Computer, her Prince-esque blend of funk, R&B and psychedelic soul should make for a great gig. The month will also see Irish legends Westlife return to Croke Park on July 5 – 6. The two nights will see the global pop kings celebrating 20 years of hits and playing their 14 number 1 singles. In August, seek out Love Sensation, an all-new festival taking place at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, August 17 – 18. Aimed at the LGBT+ community and their many friends, it will see Lily Allen, Clean Bandit, Gossip and Kelis top the bill across the weekend.
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Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Cork at night
Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower
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you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and
there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
Explore Munster
The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Bunratty Castle
Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Titanic Experience Cobh
The Burren
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.
Blarney Castle
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 28
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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.
www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie
Tel: 021 438 5252
An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1
Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08
Film
Fanatics to Flock to Fastnet The 11th Fastnet Film Festival will run from Wednesday, May 22 to Sunday, May 26 in Schull, Co Cork.
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Throughout the festival, 12 feature films will screen in 10 pop-up cinemas in the village with no movie theatre. There will also be 10 workshops and 10 seminars taking place as well as the popular event, Long Island Cinema. This takes cinephiles on a 10-minute ferry ride to the close-by Long Island which houses the most isolated picture house in Ireland. There, film fanatics can enjoy a host of refreshments, an hour-long programme of short film and the scenic views before returning to Schull’s Colla Pier. One major film screening at the festival is Float Like a Butterfly, written and directed by Cork native Carmel Winters. Winner of the Discovery Prize at the Toronto International Film Festival and the Audience Award at Cork Film Festival, the drama is a powerful story of a young woman’s fight for freedom and belonging. Living in a roadside camp in rural Ireland circa 1970, 15-year-old Frances (Hazel Doupe) wants to follow her idol Muhammad Ali by stepping into
the boxing ring. At the same time, her father (Dara Devaney) returns from jail a broken man. Once Frances’ greatest ally, he finds it hard to imagine any better for his daughter. But she was born to be a champion, not a victim. The festival screening will be followed by a postscreening Q&A with many of the cast and crew. Another highlight of the Fastnet Film Festival is the screening of Songwriter, an intimate and personal look into the writing process of one of the world's leading artists - Ed Sheeran. Filmed by his cousin, director Murray Cummings, it details the creation of Sheeran's third studio album Divide, giving an authentic insight into the musician's life through never before seen home videos. Past pupils of Schull Community College, Murray Cummings, 2nd Unit director Billy Cummings and animator William Bean will take part in a post-screening Q&A. Acclaimed Irish writer Roddy Doyle will be a special guest at Fastnet, attending
Photograph © Samson Films and Port Pictures
several events over the festival’s five days. He is the author of 11 novels and seven children’s books. Doyle has also written prolifically for TV, cinema and stage. His first three novels The Commitments (1987), The Snapper (1990) and The Van (1991) focusing on a working-class Dublin family were each made into hugely successful iconic films. The festival will screen his latest work Rosie. Directed by Paddy Breathnach from Doyle’s script, it is about a mother (Sarah Greene) and a father (Moe Dunford) trying to protect their family after their landlord sells their rented home and they become homeless and living in hotels. Along with Doyle, Breathnach and Dunford will attend the festival for a postscreening Q&A. The highlight of last year’s Fastnet was the gala performance by Carl Davis on live piano, accompanying Clarence Brown’s 1925 silent film Lady Windermere’s Fan. This year, the musician will return to Schull with a new piece of music, written
specially to accompany Clarence Brown’s Smouldering Fires in what has become an annual event. Other special guests set to attend the festival include six-time Oscar nominee writer-director Jim Sheridan, two-time Oscar nominated producer Ed Guiney, and Chairman of London Film School Greg Dyke. More will be announced in the run up to the event. This year, Fastnet received an unprecedented 469 short film submissions from over 32 countries worldwide. Alongside these national and international short film programmes, will be children’s activities such as puppet making; t-shirt painting; batik; and film animation, storytelling and drama workshops. These events for kids are free to attend. The Fastnet Film Festival is a major showcase for cinema and has been held in high regard on a local, national and international level for several years now. In keeping with this, it will run a series of seminars, masterclasses and workshops
this year covering everything from sound, screenwriting, casting, auditioning, score composition to film ethics, animation, creating content on one’s mobile, and making shorts into features. For more information about the Fastnet Film Festival, visit its website at www.fastnetfilmfestival.com.
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Recommended Bars in Munster
Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience
Dick Mack’s
Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net
The Roaring Donkey
Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739
The Friary
Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941
The Bierhaus
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant
Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The Original Durty Nelly’s
Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie
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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant
The Lobster Bar and Restaurant
options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie
The Smuggler’s Inn The Castle's Award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide, and holder of two AA Rosettes. Under the direction of the Resort’s Head Chef Tom Spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. The restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar. Visit our Fitzgerald Bar which houses the finest Irish whiskey collection. Located just ten minutes from Waterford City, and ninety minutes from Dublin and Cork airport, Waterford Castle Resort is a destination not to be missed. Voted #5 of the Ten Best Hotels in Ireland 2018 by Condé Nast Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Luxury Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island |Waterford | Ireland w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203
The Strand Inn
Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com
Out of the Blue
This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie
Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811
La Boheme
Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com
La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu
Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Cobh Heritage Centre
The Queenstown Story
Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.
T
he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and
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1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.
Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.
Spike Island’s New Excellent Exhibitions
S
pike Island Cork has opened its newest addition, 'Independence', to the public, following a €100,000 investment. The new exhibition focuses on the 1400 prisoners and internees who were held on the island in 1921 during the Irish war of Independence. Many of the men incarcerated were simply lifted off the streets by British intelligence but they had an excellent and effective network of spies. “In the vast majority of cases, the British intelligence was correct. They had very good intelligence,” said Tom O’Neill, who conducted comprehensive research to uncover many interesting facts about those incarcerated on Spike Island and what happened to them. Michael Collins’ brother, Sean and the
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former Lord Mayor of Cork Terence MacSwiney’s brother were both interned on the island. In regards the latter, Sean MacSwiney was imprisoned there after his brother died following 74 days on hunger strike at Brixton Prison, London. Collins and MacSwiney escaped the island along with Con Twomey and Tom Malone in April 1921. An IRA unit based in Cobh was responsible for the jail break. The four men had been working on maintaining the island’s golf course and overpowered their guards, killing one of them. The IRA unit landed in a boat and took the four men to Ringaskiddy. “They were never recaptured,” Mr O’Neill said. Dick Barrett, from Ahiohill, near Bandon, Co Cork, was also incarcerated on Spike Island. He
was quartermaster for the IRA and had been involved in the famous Kilmurry ambush. “He escaped from Spike Island on November 21, 1921. He ended up being captured during the Civil War and was executed by the Free State Government on December 8, 1922,” Mr O’Neill said. Barrett was one of seven who also made a successful jailbreak from the island. They discovered an old boat that was unguarded and used some timber they’d found as makeshift oars to row their way to Cobh. “They couldn’t be re-arrested because the Truce came in,” Mr O’Neill said. Five of the six men captured alive following the IRA’s disastrous ambush on British forces at Clonmult, near Midleton, Co Cork, were also held there. Mr O’Neill,
who has also written a book on that ambush, said it was the worst loss of life in a single engagement ever suffered by the IRA during the War of Independence. A total of 12 IRA men were killed and two later executed. Island manager John Crotty said the exhibition shines a light on a fascinating time in Irish history. "The Irish war of Independence was gruesome, fierce and unforgettable from an Irish perspective", said Mr Crotty. "For anyone involved in it this was a dangerous time to be alive". "We hope the exhibition shows just what it took not just for the fabled men of 1916, but also the men who carried on the struggle and fought incredible odds to free the Irish nation". The island has extended its
opening season from March to October to February to November for the first time this year. It will also have a seven-day-week opening from May to September. Mr Crotty said the island welcomed 2,500 visitors in its first ever February, despite some unpredictable weather, up 30 per cent on target. March figures were equally good. A second larger ferry of 126 capacity is now operating to the island and this will be complimented by an 80-seater ferry in June to August. Other new additions include the ‘Shivs and Shanks’ exhibition which was launched on March 12, showcasing improvised weapons confiscated by the Irish Prison Service.
Mr Crotty said the ‘Ring of Spike’ walking trail is also now complete, with a new free map and download app given to visitors on arrival highlighting the trails. "We are adding something every year and with 104 acres of beautiful island and a 24-acre fortress with dozens of century old buildings, we will continue to develop the site and add new attractions for visitors to discover annually". For more information, visit Spike Island’s website at spikeislandcork.ie.
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Welcome to Connaught
Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty
The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city
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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.
Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)
Monroe's
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.
17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820
The Front Door
Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie
Bosh Bar and Restaurant
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534
Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655
The Quays Bar Galway
Roísín Dubh
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 40
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Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347
Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant
This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie
Eala Bhán
Péarla na Mara
Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie
Brasserie on the Corner
Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823
Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255
An Port Mór Restaurant
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730
Ashford Castle
Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003
Upstairs @ West Restaurant
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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Explore Connaught
Westport House
Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.
Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.
Mullaghmore
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www.WestportHouse.ie
Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.
Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.
Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.
Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.
Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.
Croagh Patrick
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.
Welcome to Ulster
The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the
‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.
new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Mount Errigal
Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44
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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the
Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal
16th International
Dublin Gay Theatre Festival 6 – 19 May 2019
Tickets €10 – €15 Book online now! gaytheatre.ie Festival Box Office Street 66 33 – 34 Parliament St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 89 219 6898 Festival Box Office Open from 29 April 2019 Mon–Sat: 12pm–3pm
Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox
Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
The Ginger Bistro
Coco
1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121
55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421
Deane’s Restaurant
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150
Shu
They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655
Vanilla Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
Telfords Restaurant
Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268
Lough Erne Resort
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000
Sun Kee Restaurant
One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134
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Sakura
In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590
Speranza Restaurant
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
Lusty Beg
This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300
16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213
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Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.
The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.
Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.
The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.
Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.
Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.
Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.
Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.
Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. MAY 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE
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The Luck of the Irish
Dublin’s Great Casino Scene
People wouldn’t normally think of Dublin as a city that has an abundance of casinos like Las Vegas or Macau or even London. Yet the Irish capital has a number located in the city centre, although a lot smaller in size to the cities mentioned above. Casinos in Ireland operate as “private members clubs” as technically casinos are strangely neither legal nor illegal. Visitors interested in going to one of Dublin’s casinos will be asked to become “members”. This usually involves filling out a membership form at reception during your first visit. Some type of identification will also be required (usually passport or driver’s license) and you will likely have your photo taken as required by law. Most of the casinos in Ireland have a joining fee ranging from €10 to €40 depending on the place. Some offer free bets for your first or future visits that you can play. Once the paperwork is completed you can enter the main casino floor. Casinos in Ireland generally offer the same games that you would find elsewhere. Expect to see Roulette, Blackjack, 3 Card Poker (which in Ireland is called Brag), Punto Banco (which is the most popular Baccarat game) and Poker (cash & tournament). The dress code is usually casual or semi-casual. Opening times are 6pm to 6am, give or take an hour or two. Most of the action generally takes place from 9pm to 3am. ATM’s are available in all the main casinos if 48
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you want to withdraw cash at the club. The other option would be to withdraw funds directly from the cash desk at a casino using your credit card with friendly staff happy to assist. Slot machines are technically not allowed in Dublin casinos, although you will find some in arcades and similar locations. If you are interested in dining at the casino it’s worth noting very few have a large, sit down, 3-course menu. Because of space restrictions, most offer simple and quick dining experiences that will keep you from going hungry. There are a huge variety of fine dining restaurants in Dublin for a separate night out if that is what you are thinking. The last thing to note is that it is illegal for casinos to sell alcohol to players in Ireland. Some clubs will have a policy of no alcohol while others will have complimentary beers for players. There are pros and cons to both approaches so choose yourself the kind of experience you want. With all that in mind, Dublin’s casinos are certainly worth a night out. Dealers
are friendly and welcoming. Whether you visit for one hour or a whole night, staff members will be happy to tell you how things work. When finished playing, ask reception to ring you a taxi to take you back to your hotel. Win or lose if you have enjoyed yourself your night out will be a success. Moderation just like everything else is the name of the game. Maybe the luck of the Irish will rub off on you. The Fitzwilliam Casino and Card Club is Ireland’s favourite and busiest casino.The club is open from 6pm – 6am, seven days a week and is in Dublin City Centre, at the heart of the capital’s Georgian Quarter. Full Menu Available until 2.30am & Free Wi-Fi. Visit www.fitzwilliamcardclub.com for further details. Call on 01 6114677. Come in for a night out at Lower Fitzwilliam Street, Dublin 2.
EXPERIENCE THE BRIGHT CIDER LIFE
Photographs © Tony Plevin
Armagh’s Apple Blossom Weekend
Visit Armagh this spring for the county’s Apple Blossom Weekend, taking place Friday, May 10 to Sunday, May 12.
C
elebrating its orchard county status, Armagh will mark the start of this year’s growing season by offering people the opportunity to savour some great tastes. Set against the breath-taking pink backdrop of 4000 flower-filled acres of land, Bramley goodies, apple juice, cider and tarts will be on offer for all.
A highlight of the weekend is the From Blossom to Griddle event. Set in the traditional Dan Winters Cottage, feast on soda and potato apple bread cooked the traditional way over a turf fire. Also available from Friday to Sunday is apple tarts with fresh cream, along with tours of the cottage. Long Meadow Cider company opens its gates for Art in the Orchard on May 11. This will enable budding artists and beginners to enter the apple gardens to learn about line, colour and form. They will also have a chance to put brush to canvas, surrounded by scenic wonders. The company will also be providing orchard tours for visitors on Saturday and Sunday. Attendees will be guided around Long Meadow Cider’s premises and will have an opportunity to see how cider is made. The site of the first Bramley apple grown in Armagh, Crannagael House welcomes visitors to Bramley Beginnings. Savour the sights and tastes of the orchard, as you witness the stunning views at the core of orchard county and feast on seasonal treats produced at the house. A local National Trust property, Ardress House throws open its doors each Sunday in May for Apple Blossom Sundays - providing apple treats and activities for the whole family.
Meanwhile, Banbridge’s F.E. McWilliam Gallery and Studio’s in-house award-winning restaurant Quails will be offering an amazing afternoon tea throughout the weekend. The festival's Halo Wood Turning and Nature Trail Experience gives visitors a chance to experience first-hand the art of woodturning, a traditional local craft important to an Armagh Orchard at blossom time. Attendees will have the opportunity to participate in making a pen to take home. This will follow a demonstration involving apple and non-apple local woods and a discussion on bee-keepers, who often work within apple orchards. For more information on the events taking place over the Apple Blossom Weekend and to book your place, visit visitarmagh.com/spring. While in Armagh for the festival, take the time to explore the gorgeous Georgian city steeped in history. Attractions include two impressive cathedrals dedicated to St Patrick, the Armagh Observatory and Planetarium, the Armagh County Museum, the Mall, the Market Place Theatre and the Robinson Library. There’s also plenty of amazing places to eat and drink and guided tours on offer, the latter exploring the city’s historic landmarks, ancient sites and age-old walkways.
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Great Irish Writers RODDY DOYLE
I
f ever there was a writer who managed to capture the idiosyncrasies of Dublin language and humour, it’s Roddy Doyle. Since the publication of his first novel, The Commitments, almost thirty years ago, Doyle has gone on to write a further ten novels for adults, eight books for children and various plays, screenplays and short stories. Born and raised in Kilbarrack on Dublin’s northside, Doyle initially worked as an English and geography teacher after graduating from UCD. His first attempt at a novel was a sprawling state-of-the-nation saga entitled Your Granny is a Hunger Striker, which was roundly rejected by publishers. Once he took stock and began writing about the working-class Dublin people that he saw all around him, success soon followed. The Commitments was published to great acclaim in 1987 and was soon followed by The Snapper in 1990 and The Van in 1991. These novels, focusing on the Rabbitte family in the fictional north Dublin suburb of Barrytown, would later become collectively known as The Barrytown Trilogy. Many praised his use of dialogue between his characters, eschewing description or exposition to focus on the gritty but heartwarming characters. All three of the novels in The Barrytown Trilogy would later be adapted into films and Doyle found his profile raised further when his next novel, Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha won the Booker Prize in 1993. The novel told the story of 10-year-old Paddy Clarke, who lives in Dublin in 1968. While still full of Doyle’s
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trademark humour, the novel also had more dramatic themes. Doyle would explore drama further in the TV series Family and its follow up novels The Woman Who Walked into Doors and Paula Spencer. The series and novels centre on the life of Paula Spencer, a workingclass woman with a violent husband and are regarded in some quarters as Doyle’s best work. In recent years, Doyle’s short story New Boy was adapted into an Academy Award nominated short film directed by Steph Green and he co-authored Roy Keane’s second autobiography, The Second Half. He also returned to Barrytown in his most recent novel The Guts, which continues the story of Jimmy Rabbitte, the young manager of The Commitments, who is now in his forties and facing up to a cancer diagnosis. Despite his success, Doyle remains, by all accounts, grounded and modest and still lives in the capital which has inspired most of his work. This month he will attend the Fastnet Film Festival in Schull, Co Cork – taking place from May 22 – 26 – for a number of events, including a screening of his latest movie Rosie. Addressing Dublin’s homelessness crisis, the film stars Sarah Greene and Moe Dunford as parents to four children who are suddenly evicted from the rented house they have lived in for seven years. Taking place over 36 hours, the film tells a grim story but features humour, acts of solidarity and moments of rebellion, benefitting from being written by a man who knows just how to tap into the soul of his home city.