Travel Times - Humla Special Edition

december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

NPR 150 | US$ 4 | AUS$ 6 | INR 100

VOL. 2 | ISSUE 11

humla The Western Frontier

Cocooned in Nepal’s Far West, Humla remains shy of attention, for a beauty that is as raw as it is surreal. Trekking deep into its secluded valleys uncovers bits of its obscured existence.

Kartik NAach

KHAPTAD

A dramatic remake of divine episodes

The Serene Face of the Far-West

AEILA

A drink for blessing

on PEOPLE AND CULTURE

on DESTINATION SPOTLIGHT

on fOODRINK

50

54

60

www.traveltimes-mag.com

8

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

9

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

10

editorial

Editorial Dear Readers,

Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Managing Director / Editor aasha Ram Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager LABIN MANANDHAR Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Layout Supervisor Suman Maharjan Inhouse Writer NISHA SHAKYA Photographer Suresh Maharjan rOCKY PRAJAPATI Advisors anand rungta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Ramon Shrestha Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine.

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.

We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com

It is with the belief that Nepal can develop itself as an amazing tourist destination that Travel Times strives, towards promoting the country and all that it has to offer to a tourist. Although trekking is no longer synonymous to tourism in Nepal, with new and innovative tourism products being advertised to cater to the varied interests of new tourists, the country’s trekking trails remain the number one attraction for most visitors.

Our favorite story - also our cover story in this issue is about the 4500 km long, Great Himalaya Trail (GHT), a network of existing trails in Nepal, Bhutan and India, that together forms one of the longest and highest walking trails in the world. The 1700km, Nepal section of the trail begins near Kanchenjunga on the eastern border and heads west navigating the domains of eight of the world’s 8000m peaks, from the beautiful but lesser-known Makalu to the famous Everest.

Traversing the often-isolated, Nepal section of the “great Himalayan trial” as contributing writer Rabi Thapa humors us

** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Can’t handle the winter? We have plenty of stories to help you out with new sections.

Learn how to make a Yomari, a traditional Newar sweet that effectively battles the winter chills. Check out what you need to get through this season in our All You Need: to survive the winter story. Check out what travel book to get to spend those lazy afternoons indoors or what travel movie to watch. Traveling never stops!

The newest addition to the Travel Times team, Nandita Rana writes a well timed story on Aeila, home brewed Newari liquor; instant warmth and the best medicine for dampened spirits. Another cure for a dampened spirit is a canyon swing at The Last Resort.

Happy Traveling!

The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Want to Write for Travel Times?

Do you love traveling and want to write about your travel experiences? With Travel Times, you can now share your travel stories with thousands of like-minded fellow travelers. Have you always been exhilarated by the idea of traveling and being footloose? Have you always dreamt of spending life on the road or escaping into the wild? What have been your best travel memories ? What is your wildest travel fantasy?

At Travel Times we’d love to read about your experiences and help you present them better to a readership that is as passionate about traveling as you are.

So hurry up and send us your travel stories, with pictures to match and your story might be the published on the next issue of Travel Times.

Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com

in his account of the trail, he along with photographer Rocky Prajapati, have brought back stories and pictures that capture the very essence of the trail. We hope you enjoy reading about Rabi’s adventures and going through Rocky’s amazing photographs.

(

01 5536733

Rules and Instructions The only rules that we have is you are writing about a trip you have undertaken by yourself, that you have a good selection of photos and that you are very passionate about what you are writing.

The final article should be no more than a 1000 words. Tell about where you went, what that interested you about the place, and why you want to tell people about it. Also include a few details about yourself - your age, profession, the companions you traveled with and let us know how we can reach you.

Send your stories to editorial@traveltimes-mag.com

www.traveltimes-mag.com

11

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

Contents Contents

12

TurkISH DELIGHT

Humla

on Travelogue

the western frontier

on COVER STORY

The western frontier of The Great Himalaya Trail in Nepal - a 12 day trip to the remote Humla regions, uncovers secrets of this lonely wonderland in Nepal’s Far West.

Discover Turkey, its monumental heritage and the modern day charm it bestows upon its visitors, from the famous Turkish bath to its cuisines and historical inheritance.

22

18

Aeila

60

on Foodrink

This customary Newari drink is magical in all sense. Celebrations and all things ritualistic start only with Aeila.

Canyon Swing

on Adventure intro

Swinging in the dramatic gorge of the Bhotekoshi river is awesome in all sense .

68

Halong bay

Kartik Naach

on Global Treasure

‘A wonder of the earth, erected toward the high skies,’ journey to Halong Bay, a UNESCO world heritage site, and its truly mystical islands and geomorphic contour.

on People and culture

The stories have been told through centuries, but never was it so enticing and literally, magical.

50

72 54

KHAPTAd

a photographic journey with

on People and culture

A secluded village in Doti, in Far Western Nepal shelters some of the most picturesque landscapes and biodiversity of Nepal - not to mention the famous sage, Khaptad baba and his meditation of 50 years there.

caravan

on photologue

Reveal the lifestyle of the people of Far West of Nepal.

78

Start traveling....with Travel Times 12

photo of the month

14

Travel News

16 46

Reveal the best photography of the month.

48

Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

Airlines info

Arkefly, a Dutch airlie based in the Amsterdam Schipol Airport, is now your direct gateway to Europe.

all you need

Winter needs a ‘little’ extra care and preparation. Here’s what you need to stay warm this season

decemBER 2010

TIMES

64 76

Health Times

86 Festival Watch

Being on the move is no reason to skip on medication. Here’s the traveler’s guide to know their medicine.

88

what travelers should know about their medicine

Recommended restaurants

A guide to the most happening restaurants in town

Sakela Udhauli

The historic white grasslands of the wildlife reserve is a home to an array of biodiversity in the Far Western regions of Nepal.

Nepali Tea

on perfect takeaways

With evolving industry of tea, its variety in the market serves both as delicacy and as an authentic Nepali souvenir.

91

nature and wildlife

Suklaphanta Wildlife ReSeRve

Thank nature for her bounty, with celebratory dances of the Kirant people.

92 93

How to

how to make a perfect yomari

A Newari delicacy, and a uniquely delicious sweet - try your hands on making Yomari – and experiment with different fillings!

Review Traveler’s Info

www.traveltimes-mag.com

13

TIMES december 2010

photomonth of the

by: rocky prajapati

Siddha Pokhari Siddha Pokhari, a centuries old pond, located at Dudhpati-17, the entry point to the ancient city of Bhaktapur is 275 metre long and 92 metre wide and was built during reign of King Yakshya Malla in fifteenth century.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

16

Travelnews

news in brief Press Meet at CITM at China organized

Nepal made an impressive presentation on Nepalese tourism and Nepal Tourism Year 2011 at a press conference organized on the sidelines of ongoing CITM 2010 in Shanghai. The press conference was organized by the Tibet Tourism Authority and was a part of Nepal-Tibet Joint Tourism Promotion mechanisms guided by the MoU signed between two neighboring states.

Paris sees Nepal Tourism program

“Nepal Tourism Year 2011 Launch” program was organized in Paris jointly by Nepal Embassy, Paris and Nepal Tourism Board on November 15, 2010. On the occasion, the first French man and woman Mr. Pierre Mazeaud and Dr. Christian Janin were honored with letter of felicitation as well as certificates conferred them as Goodwill Ambassadors of Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

American athlete appointed Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Sean Bruch, the record-holding American adventure athlete has been names goodwill ambassador for Nepal to promote tourism in Nepal. In a function organized at the Nepal Embassy in Washington DC, brunch was handed over a letter appointing him the ambassador. Bruch trekked over high altitude peaks across Great Himalayan Trial in 49 days, six hours and eight minutes, and set the world record of becoming the fastest man to trip through Nepal. He traveled 1250 miles and

The World famous Elephant Polo Championship was held in Chitwan this year. World Elephant Polo Association and Tiger Tops Hotel jointly organized the 29th International Elephant Polo Championship jointly at Meghauli Airport from Nov 29. The championship had eight different teams - National Park Team Nepal, Tiger Tops, Tusker Iceland, Pokka Chukka and Scotland of Britain, Switzerland, UAE, Afghanistan and British Gurkhas. The elephant polo that has been started from 1981 in Nepal and has significantly helped the tourism sectors in Chitwan.

9th Himalayan White Water Rafting Challenge

The 9th Himalayan White Water Rafting Challenge was organized on December 3-5, 2010 in Trishuli River. With the promotion of Nepal Tourism Board, This event is being organized

by Nepal Association of Rafting Agents (NARA) every year.

Targeting Nepal Tourism Year 2011, Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation (MoFSC) and Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) jointly have unveiled two eco-tourism products. Koshi Tappu Wildlife

After the successful first international flight to Paro, Bhutan, Buddha Air is starting its flight to the Indian city of Lucknow from January 7. The flight is scheduled to fly three times a week on every Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays. This Kathmandu-Lucknow-Kathmandu is believed to ease the pressure of the sir traveler as the city has good connectivity to other Indian cities. Currently, the airline plans to fly 47-seater ATR-42

Petersburg, Russia, for a first-ever summit to save

tigers hosted by Russian Prime Minister Vladimir

Fund for urgent tiger conservation efforts through

his Fund at the California Community Foundation.

Across Asia, tiger numbers have dropped from 100,000 at the beginning of the last century to

as few as 3,200 today. Heads of government from

the 13 tiger range countries are gathered in St.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

aircraft and depending on passenger flow; it can start 70-seater ATR72-500 aircraft.

One of the biggest private airlines in the country, Buddha is also planning to introduce flights to other Indian cities like Guwahati, Kolkata, Patna, Banaras, Gorakhpur and Deharadun soon, said the airline.

New budget airlines in Asian sky

Putin. They are expected to announce a Global Ti-

Malaysia Airlines announced launching new serv-

number of wild tigers by 2022.

and more planes to its destinations in Singapore,

DiCaprio, a WWF board member, recently visited

expansion plans for its budget subsidiary Firefly,

habitat on elephant back alongside anti-poaching

nomically .

learning how WWF scientists monitor the park’s

Similarly Thailand’s flag carrier Thai Airways also

commitment to tiger conservation during this Year

carrier Thai Tiger in May 2011. The airline is set to

WWF in an effort to raise $20 million for tiger con-

Thai Airways and the smaller carrier Nok Air, as well

ger Recovery Program with a goal of doubling the

wood has committed $1 million to World Wildlife

Reserve and Ghodaghodi Tal in the far western region are the two newly added destinations.

These places were already popular but weren’t able to attract much tourists. Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, a popular destination for bird watching and Ghodaghodi Taal, rich in bio-diversity carries a high potential to attract tourists. Special travel packages are being developed and the concept of home stay too is being encouraged.

The government is also positive about developing the biggest river of Nepal, Koshi as a riverside tourism product.

Buddha Air flying to Lucknow

DiCaprio’s fund to Tiger Conservation

Leonardo DiCaprio, the well known actor of Holly-

The historic trek facilitated by Nepal Trust and Nepal Tourism aimed at promoting tourism in the country.

Two new eco-tourism products

29th Elephant Polo at Chitwan

tackles elevation of more than 500,000 feet. This high altitude trekking of Bruch was started from eastern Nepal’s Illam district and ended in Darchula in the far west climbing an altitude of up to 6000 meters. He crossed 18 districts and broke previous world record by 19 days.

Nepal and Bhutan with WWF experts, touring tiger staff, meeting with community members, and

ices to Kuching and Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia Thailand and Indonesia has made an aggressive

promising that it would fly larger planes more eco-

tigers. The donation will add to DiCaprio’s existing

confirmed that it would launch its new low-cost

of the Tiger. Earlier this year, he joined forces with

expand the routes already offered in Thailand from

servation through the Save Tigers Now campaign.

as adding new low-cost options internationally.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

17

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

18 AIRLINESINFO

Arkefly

Direct gateway to Europe

Arkefly, a prominent Dutch Airline based at the Amsterdam Schipol Airport was established in 2005. This low cost airline, which is a subsidiary of German travel company-TUI Group, offers short, medium and long haul fights with charter services to destinations like the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, North Africa and South America amongst others. Arkefly operates in the Netherlands with a fleet of Boeing767-300 with an average fleet age of 20 years and Boeing737800 of 4 years. It is soon introducing the B767-art B787 Dreamliner and expanding the number of B737-800s.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Arkefly started its services in the Nepalese skies from October 2010 with its weekly direct flights to Kathmandu from Amsterdam. The flight departs every Friday at 18:15 hours from Kathmandu and arrives the next day at 04:25 hours via Bahrain Bahrain being its technical hub. A Boeing 737-800 series aircraft with 180 seats is currently providing this service in Nepal. The aircraft has economy and comfort classes.

The airline permits 20 kg of baggage allowance in the economy class and 25 kg in the comfort class.

Flight Schedule:

Flight from Kathmandu to Amsterdam Aircraft: B737-800 Days of Operation: Every Friday Departure: 1815 hours Arrival: 0425 hours next day

www.traveltimes-mag.com

20

Travelogue

Turkish Delight!

Having grown up reading the Narnia series by CS Lewis, the words ‘Turkish Delight’ simply meant some sort of sweet dessert the White Witch used to allure innocent Edmund with. Not one with much of a sweet tooth myself I had never taken any interest in trying one, but since I was in Turkey, I did. However as the flagrant sweet, slightly gooey but every bit delicious cubes melted in my mouth, I could not stop after one. If I hadn’t felt obliged to share, I might have devoured the entire box!

Words SRADDA THAPA / Photos Ece Tugcu And, that’s what my days in Istanbul were like. It didn’t matter that my baggage was lost somewhere above the Atlantic Ocean or that our schedules were packed with workshops and presentations. The sheer beauty of the city – spread over seven hills and shared between Asia and Europe - was all it took to distract me. In fact, it was a real challenge to convince myself that sleeping and resting were essentials when traveling. I just wanted to go go go.

A former Basilica, and later

decemBER 2010

TIMES

mosque, the Hagia Sofia is now

a monumental museum

Even though the language barrier was a problem, I think I got along fine.

Turkish sounded nothing like anything I had ever heard before. Or, rather, it sounded like a bit of everything I had heard before. The Turkish language, much like Spanish or Nepali is not slow – words literally roll off of tongues. To me it sounded something like German, Japanese and Arabic all meshed into one. As such, the only word I remember a year after my trip is thank you – teshekkur – but then again, that’s not an unhelpful word to know when in a new city. So, while the taxi drivers weren’t entirely reliable, the people were friendly and the city was pretty and I made sure to say teshekkur whenever possible.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

21

d It is always recommende w that you read about a ne place before you visit.

Istanbul, to be honest, the was tucked neatly into . bottom of my hand-carry

national Relations 101 in college and BBC headlines a few years ago had also informed me of Turkey’s attempt to join the European Union and the difficulty it faced as a so-called Muslim state.

Tourists and locals

enjoying view of

the city

It is always recommended that you read about a new place before you visit. As a means of orienting a traveler to her destination the supposed text will clue you in on what to appreciate. But, lucky for me, I didn’t heed this advice. I was headed to Istanbul for a week-long conference and could barely skim through all of my to-read list, much less any Lonely Planet guide or even Orhan Pamuk’s highly acclaimed Istanbul gifted to me by my best friend, Afshaan Alter.

Istanbul, to be honest, was tucked neatly into the bottom of my handcarry. I’m glad it didn’t gain the prominence it would have, had it not been for my workload because had I read the book, I might have approached the city differently. Pamuk, I learnt a year later when I did get around to reading his novel, describes Istanbul with a thick fog of hüzün, or melancholy, of eras gone by. When in my fact, Istanbul was not the least bit glum, but every bit alive to me!

Despite the fact that I was in Istanbul for work, I made time for play.

Between workshops and as the day closed, a few of my colleagues and I exchanged a couple hours of muchneeded sleep for rushed, but exciting sight-seeing, food-tasting and lots of meandering. Not exactly the most walk-able city, Istanbul compensates with a clean, bright and efficient train system.

There were a very few things I knew about Istanbul prior to my trip. Courtesy of Ms. Stewart, our tenth grade Social Studies teacher and her playing the song “Istanbul was Constantinople! Constantinople was Istanbul!” on repeat, I had vague recollections of the city being tussled between the Muslims and Christians through history. I recalled a little bit of the Ottoman Empire, a historic giant named Atatürk and thanks to having read Pamuk’s My Name is Red, I had a sense of is glorious history. Inter-

Beyond this I knew embarrassingly little. I had met a Turkish friend through another friend in New York City the year before. I had inquired about the rumored law against wearing a scarf, as would have been customary to Muslim women, as part of Turkey’s attempt to present itself as a secular state. But, she had dismissed my queries and instead eagerly presented her homeland, Turkey as a modern, (read: non-religiously aligned) state.

And, not unlike her description, Istanbul felt secular, if secular is something to be felt.

For a country where religion has weighed much prominence for much of its history, Turkey attempts to pry itself from overt religious connotations. Churches that had been turned into mosques today are open as museums. Paintings, posters and inscriptions exhibit its rich religious history, but perhaps that is about it.

Amidst a plethora of must-visits that dot Istanbul, I chose Dolmabahçe Palace first. Completed in 1856, it stands on the European shore of the

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

22

musicians serenaded us with wind, string and . In percussion instruments ded fact they not only serena us, but stuck the end of s and their pipes on forehead e banged the drums on th ears of male patrons.

on Seagulls perching

a dock

Bosporus. The palace housed the last of the Ottoman Empire’s sultan. And, it strikes an emotional chord with the Turkish people as the father of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk passed away in the premise.

Although all clocks in the palace are frozen to 9:05AM – the hour in which Atatürk demised, the palace is far from spooky. Instead it is luxurious, exquisite and absolutely breathtaking. With 285 rooms, 68 toilets, 46 halls and 6 Turkish baths, it is not easily shadowed by Topkapi Palace, the oldest and largest palace in the world.

Located a mere 2 hours walk from Dolmabahçe, Topkapi, unfortunately does not have the 4.5-tonne chandelier housed in Dolmabahçe, which, of course is the largest chandelier in the world.

Digesting the grandeur of Dolmabahçe Palace is a daunting task as one room after another is absolutely magnificent –

decemBER 2010

TIMES

from the embroidery on the chairs to the carving of the wooden panels and the intricate details patterned on the walls.

It is a sight to behold.

It takes a few hours to appreciate the palace, but with that many hours spared, something has to be done for the palate. And, so, I turned up the small hill and walk into Taksim. Greeted by some thirty protestors and a handful of police personnel, I was surprised to note how civil the whole affair was! “Protestors” huddled in a corner of the street, displayed their cheerful orange placards and did not disturb the other pedestrians – roads weren’t blocked and tires weren’t burnt. Turkish people, with their sharp features and dark hair are attractive, but the policemen would have put some of our local models to shame!

They stood in riot gear, but without the faintest look of agitation.

They carried on “protesting” and after a few minutes of staring in disbelief, I decided to give in to my hunger pangs. Taksim is best described as “the Thamel of Turkey”. With the streets, the people, the food, the shopping – it was Thamel in every way! Except in place of potholed streets were beautifully cobble-stoned roads.

My friends and I settled for a restau-

rant that seemed to cater to tourists and locals alike. Tucked into an alleyway off of one of the main streets in Taksim, we squeezed past the dense ground floor and huddled our way to the second flood. Just as packed, but a little less crazy, we showed ourselves to an empty table.

Within minutes of being seated, waiters dressed in white shirts and long black aprons showcased a wooden tray brimming with delicacies I can’t name. Unaware of the items, we simply pointed to the dishes we thought we thought would tickle our taste buds. Soon, our table, much like the tray was covered with white plates of colorful dishes – meats, vegetables, dairy products and seafood galore!

While we were flooded with one scrumptious snack after another, musicians serenaded us with wind, string and percussion instruments. In fact they not only serenaded us, but stuck the end of their pipes on foreheads and banged the drums on the ears of male patrons. They only shifted their target when the client stuffed a few bills on the hort of the clarinet. But, the tip I imagine is a worthy investment. Because while we were busy ooh-ing and aah-ing over the delicacies, women started dancing on their seats and before we knew the restaurant had transformed into a dance floor. As it turns out, it is only custom-

www.traveltimes-mag.com

23

ary for the customers to dance and dine simultaneously.

Busy with our delicious snacks, we were surprised that there would even be a main course, but how can you resist fresh bait? The Kebabs made by the minority group of Turkey known as the Kurds and the Shawarmas that Turkey is famous for were defeated by the fish that night. Fresh fish, with faint traces of herbs and generous drops of lemon were devoured within minutes.

Licking our fingers we agreed that for a city that is surrounded by water on three sides, fish could not be surpassed by the kebabs!

Our Turkish hosts suggested we wash down our fish with Yeni Raki, traditional Turkish alcohol that is clear by itself, but a murky white when diluted in water. If you are a fan of liquorish, then you will swoon at the thought if liquid liquorish.

But, if that doesn’t suit your fancy, Aryan, a salty yoghurt drink, compliments the meal too. And, to finish off a good meal, you can opt for the shot-sized bitter Turkish tea or the sweetened Turkish coffee to accompany your baklava – a crispy, sweet treat.

Perched on the crossroads of Asia and Europe, it is easy to see how both are alive in the spirit of the Istanbullus. Some mannerisms – how people sat, talk, ate struck me as distinctively European and Asian at the same time!

After spending a few evenings on the European side, we ferried across to “Asia” and what is perhaps most symbolic of Istanbul. Aside from the minarets that provide a truly unique skyscape of the city, stands the Blue Mosque jesting the Haggia Sophia. Jesting may perhaps be

too harsh a choice of words. When Sultan Ahmed constructed the Blue Mosque he did not do it out of spite.

In fact the city of Istanbul, which had been contested throughout history and attempted to be claimed by the Christians and Muslims alike, was finally deliberated at the final conquest of Sultan Ahmed. Hence my 10th grade tune rung true. Istanbul was Constantinople. Constantinople was Istanbul. The Christian-ized city was won by the Muslims. And, when conquered, the chuch, Haggia Sophia – in all its majestic wonders stood – was not to be destroyed.

you will find the grand bazaar. And, grand it is. It isn’t a market like I had expected. Instead it is a massive hall, with multiple chambers, each nook and cranny hosting exquisite carpets, “designer” bags, belts, jewelry, scarves, items for décor; the list goes on. The setting itself is impressive – beautifully tiled floors, walls and ceiling – perhaps the trademark of Istanbul. It is a busy place with locals and tourists alike bargaining for the beautifully engraved items.

The details inscribed even upon the most inexpensive items leaves the shopper amazed. It is your one stop to all your souvenir shopping!

Instead, Sultan Ahmed raised the Blue Mosque, adjacent to the Haggia Sophia. He constructed the mosque so that a visitor could stand, gawk between the two and decide for themselves which was grander. A truly noble act. And, yet, he’s left visitors bewildered.

Nestled on two ends of a lush garden complete with fountains and flowers, both are splendid, both are difficult to put into words and both carry the weight of history, tradition and culture.

As such, it is difficult for one to choose one edifice over the other. I suppose you’ll have to stand there yourself and decide for yourself.

Having hardly processed the magnitude of the beauty of these buildings, ne on Istanbul’s skyli s as a landmark nd sta r we it is time to move on.

To a Galat Nearby the establishments

TIMES december 2010

Humla COVERSTORY

the western frontier Humla’s unfrequented, diverse attractions are a revelation for Nepalis and a welcome change for teahouse trekkers.

Words Rabi Thapa | Photos Rocky Prajapati

Roads are, but carved passages and rough terrain in the rocky hills of Humla

www.traveltimes-mag.com

26

CoverStory

1

2

W

1.

The lush fields of Surkhet receive refreshing afternoon showers

‘

2.

Famous for its natural bubbles, the lake Bulbuley Taal in Surkhet attracts many visitors, and so does its fishing prospects

My travelling companions laughed, sporting a variety of expressions. Some looked resigned, others frustrated, and one simply ordered another beer, smiling wryly. Ke garne?

Along the landing strip, a pair of dark, white-turbaned medicine men stood tall in a crowd of shabbily clothed women and children.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

hat is this, the Great Himalaya Trial?’

It was the third day of our trip to Humla, and by now, we should have been puffing up the trail from the district headquarters, Simikot, rubbing shoulders with donkeys, yaks and goats. Instead, here we were in the overcast valley of Surkhet, working our way down the hotel menu, waiting for news on weather conditions so we could fly out. It wasn’t much of an advert for the 1700km east to west Great Himalaya Trail, the 12-day Humla section of which our mixture of journalists and tour operators had set out to do.

At least Surkhet had something going for it,

though it seemed some of the European tourists waiting with us in the hotel had little appetite to move beyond the lobby. The hidden medieval, mossy ruins of the temple of Kakrebihar, secreted in a forest a half hour away through the green paddy fields around Birendranagar, had all the charm of a miniature lost city. Along with the pretty wetlands around Bulbule Taal, we passed the time we were besieged by clouds. But it was a deliverance to finally take to the skies on the fourth morning, and follow the gray Karnali as it twisted through the mountains up to Humla.

As we banked to prepare for landing at Simikot (2900m), we saw the flat-roofed beige cluster of the old town spreading along a multi-coloured pre-harvest plateau. Along the landing strip, a pair of dark, white-turbaned medicine men stood tall in a crowd of shabbily clothed women and children. It felt like we were entering a different world.

Kakrebihar Kakrebihar derives its name from its cucumber seed-like shape and literally translates into Cucumber shaped monastery. This Hindu – Buddhist Temple in Latikoili VDC of Surkhet in Mid – West Nepal is of great historical importance to the people of Surkhet. Among the many sagas associated with it, locals believe that Pandavas, or the five brothers from the epic Mahabharat built a cottage and spent their exile years at the Bihar. Constructed around the 12th century, it is completely built from stones and houses bronze idols of Hindu deities and Buddha.

A midday view of Simikot, the headquarters of Humla. The Karnali River paves its way into the town from a distance.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

28

CoverStory

1

I had no complaints whatsoever about the lushness of the green, green mountains that overlooked the roaring Karnali, fed by innumerable, spectacular waterfalls.

As captivating and distant as the place is, so are the people there, demure and diligent. They exhibit a unique mix of culture. Dressed in velvet blouses and long skirts, the Thakuri and Chhetri women glisten in silver accessories. The nose rings accompanied with thick silver bangles and anklets jingle with their movement, and is accentuated by bright colored beaded necklaces, also refered to as Potey. The Bhotia women, clad in their traditional Bhakkus are adorned in hunks of turquoise, especially for earrings, beaded necklaces and amulets that they believe wards off evil spirit.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

There are several worlds within Humla, as became clear soon. The midlands around Simikot, which occupied the first couple of days of our trek, are sparsely inhabited by Hindu Chhetris and Thakuris, whose poverty belies their highcaste status. The rain of the preceding days had rendered what I dubbed the ‘sisnoo and gobar’ (nettle and dung) trail a little hard going at times, but I had no complaints whatsoever about the lushness of the green, green mountains that overlooked the roaring Karnali, fed by innumerable, spectacular waterfalls. Occasional villages of mud-packed, flat-roofed houses were lit up by shy, smiling women weighed down with ornate gold, silver and bead jewellery, and we passed endless flocks of long-haired goats and sheep on the salt trade to and from Tibet. Why had I imagined Humla to be a desiccated, starved ‘remotaria’ worthy of little more than pity?

2

3 Our trek, beginning in Simikot, headed northwest towards Hilsa at the border with Tibet. We camped next to villages and ate at the teahouses just beginning to spring up along the trail with encouragement (and training) from the Nepal Trust and SNV, the Dutch development organisation. For the most part, it was simple fare, which is usually all you need at the end of a long day’s slog. But the company we were travelling with, Firante Treks, had a few tricks up its sleeve in its quest to deliver a more authentic trek. In addition, our local hosts were only too happy to venture beyond the regimen of dalbhat (rice and lentils) and treat us to nettle soup, buckwheat pancakes, noodle soup, roasted barley flour porridge and crunchy Humli apples. Not to mention the uwo ko chhyang, a potent alcoholic drink fermented from barley!

www.traveltimes-mag.com

CoverStory

29

1.

A procession of mountain goats in Kermi - mostly used as pack animals in the villages there

2.

Kermi village nestled in the vast greenery as seen from the Salli Lagna pass.

3.

Settlements thin out after crossing the village of Kermi into Yalbang.

Intrigued by foreign passersby, the villagers look on from their rooftops.

4.

While on the way to Kermi, we happended to come across waterfalls like this frequently.

5.

Local kids of Humla

4 5

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com www.traveltimes-mag.com

30 CoverStory

1

decemBER 2010

TIMES

2 3

4 5

1.

Chyachhahara, literally high altitude waterfall in the Tibetan language, caressed by the morning sun.

2.

The Tibetan Plateau stretches far north into Tibet as seen from the Nara la Pass

3.

A settlement in Hilsa, at the Nepal - Tibet border offers everything from guest houses, tea houses and hotels to a helipad

4.

A village woman hanging sheep wool to dry, which is a major trading commodity in Hilsa.

5.

Yaks tread upon deserted paths while making their way into Hilsa from Nara la pass.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

32

CoverStory

1.

Yari Gumba in Yalbang, a popular site for Buddhist pilgrims in Humla

2.

Houses made from stone and mud are abundant in villages, near Yalbang.

3.

Jagged rocks stand like spectacular works of art on the way to Limi.

1

2

3

decemBER 2010

TIMES

‘It’ll take another 20 years for this road to get to Simikot. No, make that 30.’

As we ascended through Dharapuri and Kermi to Yalbang, the landscape lost its verdant aspect, with pines and shrubs studding the ruddy mountain valley above the Karnali. Monasteries – sad and dilapidated at Tumkot and exuberantly expansive at Yalbang – betrayed the transition to Buddhism in these higher parts, which draw not only their spirituality from Tibet but also much of their trade.

At Yari, incongruously, we encountered a bulldozer coming the other way. It was just rounding off the 26-km track from the Hilsa border, prompting the question: would trekkers on the Great Himalaya Trail be scared off by a road, a la Annapurna Circuit, even before the route makes a name for itself? We weren’t sure how to react to our guide’s confidence: ‘It’ll take another 20 years for this road to get to Simikot. No, make that 30.’

Cresting the pass that led down to Hilsa was a revelation. The sight of the Tibetan plateau due north made us forget the altitude – 4600 metres above sea level – and it was raining in Tibet!

Across the now turquoise Karnali, and above the

ramshackle dust-and-stone agglomerate of Hilsa, the Limi Valley beckoned.

From Hilsa (after admiring the smooth black road heading up to the Tibetan town of Sher), we tracked back southeast along the Limi Valley.

If we’d felt Humla was a little on the lonely side, Limi taught us what isolation was. Each of the three days of walking along the red rock-scapes brought us to a single, medieval stone-housed village hidden in between ridges below glacial mountains. Few people spoke Nepali in Limi, and in any case we were more likely to come across blue sheep, massive vultures, cheeky marmots and moody yaks than another human being. The villages themselves, labyrinthine settlements of solid stone clustered around a monastery (the Halji monastery being especially impressive), were unique. The people were busy with the harvest of barley and wheat this time of year, and could be seen scattered across the fields as we walked past. Only their children came out onto the trails to accost us with demands for photos and sweets.

A decorative entrance to the Halji village houses a chorten on top.

The Halji Khola, for its size is a potently rapid river - pristine in its milky white appearance.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

34

2 3

1

The hot water spring near Tankche khola is a natural source of scalding hot water.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

By this time, we considered ourselves hardened, acclimatised trekkers, of course. The aches and pains of the first days had faded, friendships had taken root, and we were freer to pursue our own inclinations; as foolish as they may have been. Three of us had already risked life and limb scrambling down rocky gullies to bypass the tedious road to Hilsa from the pass. Now, on day nine of the trek, as we prepared to take a winding detour to ease the crossing of the Ling-Chu River before we camped at the base of the 5000 metre Nya-Lu Pass, we had a brainwave. Why not cross right here, and save an hour or more of walking?

Sure, it looked a little wider and faster, and there were three waters to cross, but it couldn’t be that hard, could it?

Seconds later, we stood on the near bank of the first stream, pants rolled up to our knees, shoes around our necks. The rushing waters looked just

that little faster, just that little wider. We plunged in. And a whole lot colder than we could have ever imagined. Our very bones were numbed in the first couple of steps, and our feet fumbled along the sharp stones of the riverbed, while the waters swirled around our thighs and threatened to knock us over. Should I turn back, I thought, alarmed, but we were already halfway across.

Gasping with the dead pain in our feet, we scrambled onto the further bank, and began laughing for no reason. Yaks parked on a river island across the next, smaller stream looked on, impassively.

We stumbled across the second stream, and as we jumped about to warm our feet, saw little bubbling pocks of sand along the shallows. The water was warm. We looked across to the final bank.

Clouds of steam rose from the rough hummocks leading up from the river. Hot springs! Now here was an incentive if ever there was one.

4 5

The third stream almost swept me off my feet, and we were all soaked to our underpants, but we had made it. We hopped over to the source of the steam. There were two sizeable hot pools right next to the icy river, one deep blue, the other, bubbling grey. Did I say bubbling? It was boiling, with bubbles the size of golf balls rising up to the air. Alas, even the more benign looking pool was too hot to dip into, so we had to make do with a makeshift rock dam by the banks where the mixing waters made for a passable footbath.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

CoverStory

35

Our very bones were numbed in the first couple of steps, and our feet fumbled along the sharp stones of the riverbed.

1.

The terraced fields are laden with buckwheat and millet, in the sparsely verdure scapes of Til.

2.

Crystalline water of the Tankche khola - an oasis for weary travellers

3.

It’s a sign! - Chortens signal the existence of settlement areas nearby.

4.

Generational diversity of the Jang villagers - an old man with his grandchild

5.

Locals of Til examine a brand new hulling machine from China (the very first one ever came to Humla).

6.

The shadowy hills of Nepal reveal a magnificent peak from across the border in the Tibetan side

6

Our adventures weren’t over. We climbed up to a trail above the beautiful Tshom Tsho glacial lake (and spied our fellow travellers crawling along on the other side), and soon it became clear we’d have to cross the river yet again to make the campsite. But where? Beyond the lake, the river appeared much wilder, and I resisted the suggestion of another bare-naked crossing. Suddenly, TIMES december 2010

A panoromic view from Nyalu La Pass

Enter pasta, pizza and tuna momos at 4000 metres. It was a little surreal, though not as much as the fulgent skies above our night camps.

we came across a stone bridge. Actually, it was just the columns of a bridge – barring the first flagstone laid from the first to second column.

The most daring among us walked onto this stone and nodded, ‘Hmm, yes, we can do it.’ I followed, and stared across the three five-foot gaps between the columns. I baulked, and returned to the bank, shaking my head firmly. ‘No, no, no.’

I looked back. Our leader had leaped across, and now stood on the opposite bank, calmly beckoning. The thought flashed through my mind – am I not too old to be leaping across Himalayan rivers?

– but now I felt compelled to follow. We made it… but for a second, watching our diminutive pho-

tographer gauge the distance between leaps, I thought, his legs just aren’t long enough.

Onwards then, towards the desolate glacial valley below the Nya-Lu pass. By this time, we had reverted to full camping mode, as there were no teahouses further up from Hilsa. Enter pasta, pizza and tuna momos at 4000 metres. It was a little surreal, though not as much as the fulgent skies above our night camps. It had been many years since I’d seen a Milky Way that expansive, stretching absolutely from horizon to horizon. It seemed however that it was Kathmandu that was further away, not the stars.

Mt. saipal A 6,925m peak on the border of Humla, Bajura and Bajhang districts, Mt. Saipal is a beauty of the Far Western region of Nepal. The supposedly second highest peak of the region after Mount Api (7132m ), Mt. Saipal remains secluded and not fully explored. An expedition team of three French mountaineers and a Nepali climbing guide successfullty scaled the mountain on 29th October, 2010. Mt. Saipal stands tall and unbeaten in the scenic sphere of the Upper karnali regions, north-western Nepal, along with the Kanji Roba Himal and Rara lake.

A panoromic view of Limi Valley

A panoromic view of Saipal Mountain

www.traveltimes-mag.com

CoverStory

41

A panoromic view of Shelima Lake

We slogged up the pass the next morning, and cracked open cans of weak Lhasa beer, suitably triumphant and bemused to find no snow even at 5000 metres. Then we trundled all the way down. It was a tedious, dusty walk along a river, enlivened briefly by thundering waterfalls, but late in the day, heading towards our first, delayed views of Mt. Saipal (7,031m), we broke into a sunny, autumnal birch and pine forest through which mountain streams crashed, to a campsite in the shadow of a hulking rock face reminiscent of Yosemite.

From here, we rejoined the trail back to Simikot.

With the weather clear, it was drier, springier, and easier to navigate. Smiling faces and big mugs of tea greeted us at the Nepal Trust lodge. It felt like we’d been gone a long time, and that it would be

much longer before we’d make it back again, despite my fantasies of a summer in the Limi Valley, writing a novel.

Settling down to sleep in a tent parked in the garden of the guesthouse that last night, my mind wandered over the fortnight of discovery we’d had on the Great Himalaya Trail. It seemed unthinkable that I would retreat into the urban cocoon of Kathmandu, never to walk above the raging Karnali again. But if you’d asked me about Humla a month ago, I’d have had nothing substantial to tell you. The loveliest of places don’t really exist in our imagination until we go there, I thought, because pictures and words can only tell you so much. If anybody cares to ask me now where to go in this country of ours, the answer comes quite easy – go west.

The loveliest of places don’t really exist in our imagination until we go there, I thought, because pictures and words can only tell you so much.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

42

Fast facts on humla

How to get there

Room and board

•

Humla is often known as the ‘Hidden Himalaya’ due to its remoteness).

•

The highest mountains of the region are Mt Api (7132m) and Mount Saipal (6925m).

Bus or plane to Nepalganj, then a plane to Simikot. You can also travel to Birendranagar, Surkhet for your flight to Simikot.

Organised or teahouse? A combo might be the best option, as not all villages (especially in the Limi Valley) can provide food and lodging. You can go with an organised camping group and arrange for local food part of the way, but it is possible to stay at some of the new teahouses along the route.

Take a sleeping bag and if you want to go solo in the Limi Valley, you will need a tent and extra food. Take extra batteries, as charging is difficult.

•

The northern landscape is part of a sacred Buddhist mandala, which has its centre at Mt Kailash and points in the surrounding landscape, stretching for hundreds of kilometres, corresponding to spiritual concepts.

•

Buddhist families practise polyandry, or the practise of a woman marrying a family of brothers. This has the practical benefits of preserving land in the family and keeping population down and Buddhist families are often more wealthy than the Hindu families of the region.

•

The ancient salt trade has traditionally used goats rather than Yaks or mules as in other parts of Nepal.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Itinerary Your 12-day trek begins at Simikot, from where you head northwest along the Karnali River. You can stop for the night at Dharapuri, Kermi, Yalbang, Tumkot and Hilsa, but the location of teahouses or the preferences of your camping group may vary. From Hilsa, cut back through the Limi Valley, stopping at campsites at Manepeme, Til, Tatopani, and Talung. Once you cross the 5000m Nyalu Pass you’ll walk along a river to birch and pine forests and a campsite alongside the Sallu River, then rejoin the trail back to Simikot, stopping only at Dhandkermi.

What to take It gets freezing cold at 4000m so keep warm, and take good boots for the rocky trail.

The Fam-Trip to Humla, was organised

by SNV, for the promotion of the Great Himalaya Trail. The story is based on wiritten Rabi Thapa’s experience on thr trail with photos by inhouse photographer Rocky Prajapati.

www.welcomenepal.com

Together for Tourism

For more photos on this trek, visit www.traveltimes-mag.com or join us at facebook www.facebook.com/traveltimes

www.traveltimes-mag.com

44

the great himalaya Trail

Linda Bezemer

Tourism Product Development Advisor, SNV

Mim Bahadur Hamal Value Chain Development Advisor SNV

To elaborate more on the Great Himalaya Trail Development Project (GHTDP), Travel TImes talked to Linda Bezemer, Tourism Product Development Advisor and Mim Bahadur Hamal, Value Chain Development Advisor, PPST from SNV (Netherlands Development Organisation).

What is the Great Himalaya Trail all about?

Linda: The Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) is in fact, a network of existing trails that forms one of the longest, and highest alpine walking routes in the world It is spread across Bhutan, China, India, Nepal and Pakistan. The trail network includes some tough routes (up to 6200m) taking you through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, and lower-elevation villageto-village paths that could be self-guided.

The GHT in Nepal extends for 1700 km, from Kanchenjunga (in the East) to Humla (in the West).

TAAN (Trekking Agents Association of Nepal), is the in process of finalizing and publishing the actual GHT trail map of Nepal.

Mim: 20 percent of the tourists who visit Nepal are trekkers,

decemBER 2010

TIMES

40 percent of whom are repeat tourists. Most of them visit the Everest regions, the Annapurna circuit and Langtang only because these are the most popular destinations, and the most accessible, and have been known to the world from a long time back.

The rest of the trail, however, remains untouched, which encompasses 16 districts and a population of 1.8 million ranging from Kanchenjunga (East) to Humla (West). The other target of the GHTDP is the introduction of these places, and improving accessibility there while diversifying the concentration of tourists of the Everest and Annapurna regions. This will provide a new experience for repeat tourists and help attract new tours and treks that are in fact more adventurous, considering its remoteness.

SNV’s role in GHT?

Linda: SNV with its Great Himalayan Trail Development Program (GHTDP) is helping to assist the Government of Nepal to promote tourism in these regions.

The places that GHT encompasses are remote, and nearly cut off from the rest of the world. These places have rich and unique biodiversity as well as ethnic cultures. One of the main features of the GHTDP is to promote these areas as trekking destinations and help improve the living standard of people with skill based trainings, employment opportunities and bring sustainable development to the remote communities.

The approach taken in GHTDP is summed up in three steps: Marketing - It is the most important tool to create awareness and let people know about GHT, through branding and promotion.

The most important marketing tool is the website: www.thegreathimalayatrail.org which has useful information for both trekkers, trekking agencies and tour operators.

Product Development - The GHTDP helps micro, small and medium tourism entrepreneurs

This will provide a new experience for repeat tourists and help attract new tours and treks that are in fact more adventurous.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

45

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

46

the great himalaya Trail

GHTDP is an environmentally sustainable project that takes advantage of both facts: tourism promotion and improving living standard in these remote places all the while protecting its natural and cultural identity. In Humla for example, locals are trained in waste management. of the mountain districts of Nepal to improve quality of services and products provided to tourists, and to promote their business among tourists and tour operators. This features a provision of business trainings to the local entrepreneurs, skill building trainings and an opportunity to learn about hygiene and sanitation standards, when working with western tourists.

Building institutional capacity at central and district levels - The GHDTP aims to regulate local government bodies such as the DDC by forming TDCs (Tourism Development Committees) to successfully manage, market and monitor a complex program like GHT.

How was GHT initiated?

Mim: The concept dates back to 1990 with informal discussion by the Nepalese Government to brand GHT for tourism promotion.

It was conceptualised between 2003 – 2005. GHT is simply a brand name that covers the extensive Himalayas from East to West Nepal. SNV conducted a preparatory study on the GHT regions in 2005 and launched a three-year pilot project in association with UNWTO in the Humla – Dolpa regions as a part of the GHTDP. The 10 sections of GHT include a total of 6000m passes and eight 8000m mountain ranges, namely, the Far West; Humla; Rara, Jumla & Mugu; Dolpa; Annapurna & Mustang; Ganesh Himal & Manaslu; Langtang & Helambu; Everest & Rolwaling; Makalu Barun; Kanchenjunga.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

and incentives from the tourism sector. It helps to link the local public and private sector businesses of the GHT areas with tour operators and tourists in the central and international level, for sustainable tourism development

The current approach to GHTDP is to focus on tourism development in each of the ten sections of the GHT, one region at a time.

Present scenario of GHT areas?

Mim: Most of the places of the GHT are remote with their authentic culture intact. Their rawness and natural beauty harness huge tourism potential.

The development of tourism prospects in these places, in return will help to improve the living standards of the rural community there.

GHTDP works procedurally. The Value chain analysis, for example, concentrates on skill development projects such as first aid, hygiene, sanitation, and hospitality trainings to facilitate the foreign visitors in the regions.

Kathmandu is the hub for even the smallest commodity required for trekking and tours in other parts of Nepal. This often comes down to be expensive and inconvenient. So one of the core objectives of this project is to decentralize Kathmandu as the hub and empower other regions with basic and standard skills and facilities that promote tourism.

The GHTDP enables gradual empowerment of the local people through increased employment

Main problems facing the GHT areas?

Mim: Most of these areas lack basic transportation and accessibility. These areas have basic airport and very basic infrastructure. Others include policy related issues such as proper services and security for the travellers. The remoteness of these places make it more expensive to

trek to the regions, both in terms of time and operating cost.

How environmentally conscious is the project?

Linda: GHTDP is an environmentally sustainable project that takes advantage of both facts: tourism promotion and improving living standard in these remote places all the while protecting its natural and cultural identity. In Humla for example, locals are trained in waste management. They have separate bin for separate wastes, for decomposing, recycling and reusing. They have a well managed system.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

47

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

48

ALLYOUNEED

All you need to Shake up the cold wave!

There is nothing compared to the warmth we get to enjoy during winter.

It nevertheless comes with a price – preparation!

Gearing up for the season entails many ‘extras’ from extra clothing and heating equipment to skin care routines. The snugness it offers is, however, a trade worth every bit of the hard work. Whether for work, travel or leisure, just when you thought you were winter ready, listed are some essentials to help you cozy up this winter.

Solar power

Basking in the sun may not sound like much but it is more important than we think!

The sun’s energy helps in reducing winter depression and seasonal affective disorder (SAD) - a seasonal depression and mood variation.

Exposure to the sun regulates the delicate balance between Serotonin (hormone affecting wakefulness and elevated mood) and Melatonin (the sleep hormone).

The Vitamin D boosting benefits of the sun helps to keep our bones strong, our immune system healthy and helps protect against cardiovascular diseases.

Citrus season

Fruits such as oranges, lemons, grapes and berries are winter fruits, and available abundantly this time of year. Vitamin C-rich and high in antioxidant properties, these help boost your immune system and ward off recurring symptoms of cold and other common ailments.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Wear it warm

Staying warm in winter? Even animal-burrows are well stocked for the winter. Apart from bulky wool jackets and coats, the small details will save you a lot of wintery woes.

Accessories such as shawl, mufflers, socks, gloves/mittens and caps are a winter must.

Pashmina and cashmere are lightweight and multipurpose.

They can be used both as shawls even as a uber luxurious substitute for a blanket.

Waterproof windcheaters are lightweight and best for the season.

Thermals are lifesavers! These skinny inner wear spare us the pain of layering while saving up body heat adequately.

Thermal Vessels

Skin Savvy

Light gadgets

Med Assistant

Winter is no excuse for skipping on hydration.

Vacuum flasks, hot cases and insulating sleeves are great for keeping both liquid and solid food warm while travelling – so you don’t have to miss out on your routine cup of hot coffee/tea no matter where you are!

(Extra) flashlights and batteries are always handy, but more so during this time of year when natural light and energy is comparatively low.

If outdoors, camping, hiking or on long tours - fire starters, matches and Swiss knives make great companion.

Winter often leaves skin dry and patchy so it calls for some extra pampering.

Rich moisturizers, sunscreen, lip balm and sunglasses are skin savers.

Oil massage is a time tested and popular winter tradition. From infants to the elderly, oiling both body and hair during this time of year regulates body temperature and protects against colds and muscle pain. A traditional massage requires the oil used to be slightly higher than our body temperature.

Common cold, flu and running nose are common winter problems and can cause embarrassment.

A medical kit for winter, while travelling or at home, should necessarily include natural balm, soft tissue, ointment for rashes/dry patches, hand sanitizers and mild analgesic such as aspirin or cetamol.

Bandages, heat rub and heat pad relieve muscle and joint pains - common ailments of the season.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

49

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

50

hEALTHTIMES

What travelers should know about their medicine

Traveling for business and pleasure is becoming increasingly common. With increasing facilities, more middle aged and elderly people are traveling. With the increasing incidence and detection of chronic diseases like high blood pressure and diabetes among others, more travelers are likely to be on prescription medicines.

By Dr. Ravi Shankar Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur.

He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.

availability and other problems

The National Prescribing Service (NPS) of Australia (www.nps.org.au) provides useful consumer information about medicines.

One of the first issues which they consider and you should know about, is the definition of medicine. They define medicine as ‘any substances that are meant to change the way your body deals with an illness or injury or to maintain your health and well being no matter where you get them from.’ People do not often consider vitamins, nutritional supplements, minerals and herbal and ayurvedic medicines as proper medicine. It is important to keep in mind that they are all medicines with potential to cause both benefit and harm to a person.

Usually you obtain medicines from your doctor, a pharmacist based on a doctor’s prescription, or from a drug store without a prescription. If you are a person taking medication on a daily basis for diseases like high blood pressure and diabetes, you may occasionally face problems obtaining your medicines while traveling in foreign countries. The particular brand of the medicine you have been prescribed may not be available or the medicine may be available in different strengths in different countries.

Insulin (the injection which many diabetics use daily) is an example. In many countries, including Nepal, the commonly available strength is 40 units per ml while in the United States (US) the strength commonly available is 100 units per ml. This may entail a major change in your injection volumes.

Many medicines like insulin may have to be stored at temperatures below 250 C. Ensuring proper storage conditions for your medicines while traveling may be difficult.

Many medicines are also light sensitive and can be rendered useless on prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Sources of medicines,

Transporting prescription

What is medicine?

Interactions you may have to keep in mind If you are already on medicines for a chronic disease condition, you should be careful while taking new prescriptions or nonprescription medicines. There are two types of interactions. Your medicine may interact with a medicine you newly consume. This is a drug to drug interaction about which we know a good deal. The other is where a medicine interacts with an item of food about which we have much less information. Ask your doctor or pharmacist about the interactions of your medicine with food. For example, grape fruit juice interferes with the metabolism of many drugs and it is best for medicines to be taken with a glass of plain water in a standing position. In our country, decemBER 2010

TIMES

medicine labels and consumer information leaflets about medicines are not common.

A few sites from where you can obtain information about medicines targeted at a layperson are Medline Plus (www.nlm.nih. gov/medlineplus/), Medsafe (www.medsafe.govt.nz/) and National Prescribing Service among others.

Medicines with a potential for interaction are best taken with a separation of at least two hours. Sticking to complex regimens and ensuring a proper time gap between medicines and between medicines and food may be especially difficult while traveling. A possible problem for diabetics on insulin could

be synchronizing food intake with insulin injections. Most insulin preparations take 30 to 45 minutes for their action and food can be taken 30 minutes after the injection.

This may be a problem while traveling, as you are not sure about the time of your next food intake. Ultra short acting insulin preparations are now available which begin to act almost immediately and these may be more convenient while traveling. An insulin pen, a cartridge like device ensures easy portability, storage and convenience of use and can be a boon while traveling. Diabetics on insulin and even on oral medicines should discuss their travel plans and special requirements with their doctor.

medicines on international flights

Flying is fast becoming the most common method of international travel. Persons on prescription medicines need to have access to their medicines during the period of travel and stay in the visiting country.

Check with the embassy or consulate of the country you plan to visit to know about the legal status of different medicines. Certain medicines may be banned for various reasons. The medicine should be stored in a bottle or container with a label containing the patient details and the name and contact information of the prescribing doctor.

In Nepal however, most medicines are not properly labeled despite a number of initiatives to improve the situation. Obtaining a letter from your doctor explaining your condition, the various medicines you are taking with their generic names is recommended. There are now new restrictions on liquid preparations and aerosols and gels on flights. Place these medicines in a clear plastic bag with a label and keep your doctor’s prescription handy.

different uses. While traveling it is always better if you request your doctor to prescribe using generic names as the brand names vary from country to country and can create confusion. There are certain medicines where the amount of the medicine reaching the site of action is critically dependent on the formulation properties and medicine characteristics. These medicines also have a low margin of safety.

u

n c

These medicines like digoxin (used in heart failure) and phenytoin (used in epilepsy) can be prescribed using brand name with the generic name in the bracket.

Cost of medicines

In general, most medicines are cheaper in South Asia than in many other countries.

Cost may be a problem for travelers from Nepal to developed nations and also to countries like Malaysia and many African countries. Carry the prescription medicines required for the entire duration of the trip with you. If you are going in for traveler’s insurance, be sure to find out what the insurance covers.

In Nepal, the unpaved roads and trekking routes are rough and your medicines will be subject to a lot of jolting and mechanical trauma. Ensure you properly pack your medicines in protective containers. While trekking it may be better to put your medicines into a pouch or bag clearly labeled with your name and details and entrust all prescription medicines of the trek group members to a porter for ‘delicate’ handling if possible. A thing to note is that during a trek on warm days medicines packed inside bags can get very hot increasing chances of degradation. Following these common precautions will ensure your medicines are ‘active’ and there for you when you need them.

Medicines have three names. One is the chemical name, the second the generic name and the third the brand or proprietary name. I will illustrate this using a very common drug aspirin. The chemical name of aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid; the generic name is aspirin while a brand name could be disprin. To complicate matters further, aspirin is available in two strengths with

a

51

Packing medicines for off the road travel and treks

Different names of medicines

l

www.traveltimes-mag.com

healthtimes

h i n g

s

o

o n TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

52 people&culture

A historic play observed on the seventh month of the Nepalese calendar revisits legends of deities and demons.

Words Utsav Shakya Photos Suresh Maharjan

decemBER 2010

TIMES

W

hat exactly is the purpose of an 8 daylong dance festival? There are people who argue about this in the capital. In a time when the country is limping through an economic slump, when unemployment is high and per capita income has taken a nosedive, art might seem frivolous to many. This in turn questions the purpose of art itself in such times. Smack in the middle of Kathmandu’s Lalitpur district, in the beautiful Patan Durbar Square, itself witness to many historic events, the location for the dance announces its importance and its purpose.

Kartik Naach is arguably the finest and most sophisticated dance routine in Nepali culture. Although the exact reasons behind the origin of the dance are not known, quite a lot of stories have been handed down through generations to make up for this absence of facts. A heady mixture of singing, playing of musical instruments and dancing that follows ancient, religious, historical and folk traditions, Kartik Naach brings alive a different time, one whose air seems to have lingered on in and around the temples of Patan’s square.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

people&culture

53

2

3 5

4 1.

Danav Raj dancing to initiate a fight againt Narsingha, on the final day of Karthiknach

2.

Everyday ends with a special performance where all the symbolic deities dance together

3.

Kawon, a skeletal figure, often regarded an ally of Lord Shiva stages his dance on the 5th day.

4.

A war between prominent Hindu deities Mahadev or Lord Shiva and Lord Krishna beckons on the 4th day.

1 The tradition of Kartik Nach was established by devout King Siddhi Narsingh Malla in the 17th century during the Malla era. With a 360 year-old history backing it, the dance festival commences after establishing the Natyeswar from the hills of Baghdwar in Shivapur to Saugal in Lalitpur. Although it was started off as a eight day long art festival, the festival was extended to 15 days

by Srinivas Malla, the son of Siddhi Narsingh Malla while Yoga Narendra Malla, the grandson extended it further to a full month. The festival faced a cut down to just two days after the revolution of 2007 BS (Nepali Year) but was later extended to its present duration of eight days at the initiative of locals.

5.

The Bhairav is spectacularly masked and his dance entrancing, observed on the 5th day of the festival.

6.

Onlookers, fascinated and entertained by the bewildering Kartik nach, more than three centuries old.

6

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

54

people&culture

The seven days, as was originally planned, consist of high-energy demonstrations of an ancient art form by locals for whom the dance has been passed on from generations to generation.

The Story of Kartik Naach Barah, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu as a wild boar, performing ritualistic dance on the 7th day of Kartik Nach.

One of the stories behind the inception of this dance festival goes like this. Malla King Siddhi Narsingh Malla wanted to revive a general feeling of happiness amongst the people of his land.

After consultations with his gurus and pundits, it was decided that this happiness would have to come at the cost of a Narbali, or sacrificing a mortal to appease the gods. A seven day-long dance in the Nepali month of Kartik would follow this sacrifice.

The original plan was for various dances to be performed during the first seven days. On the concluding day of the festival, a man dressed up as Narsingh (Hindu god Vishnu disguised as a giant demon) would kill another man dressed up as Hiranyakashyap, an evil demon borrowed from

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Hindu mythology. This horrifying practice was carried out a few times before the absurdity of sacrificing one man to make others like him happy dawned on the King. Since then, the tradition has been continued through dances and drama, all based on the myths of Narsingh and Hiranyakashyap, in front of the Krishna Mandir in Patan.

The seven days, as was originally planned, consist of high-energy demonstrations of an ancient art form by locals for whom the dance has been passed on from generations to generation. The final day’s performance begins on a high note. Various performances during the week now culminate in a final showdown between the wrathful Narsingh and the demon god Hiranyakashyap.

Performed to the tune of traditional musical instruments such as Jhokhi, Dha, Damokhi, Jonagada, Mridanga, Jhyali, Ta, Bhusiya, Pongga and Muwali, the dramatic climax comes as Narsingh closes in on Hiranyakashyap who has till then managed to save himself from the deity. Narsingh finally forces Hiranyakashyap into a corner.

However, the very instance that Narsingh touches him, the dancer impersonating Hiranyakaship, quite incredibly loses consciousness and collapses to the ground, only to regain consciousness after five days. How in a time of science and technology, such a feat is still achieved is simply astonishing.

It is believed that all five masks used by Narsingh are buried in front of the Narsingh Dewal.

The first mask used was considered to be very powerful with strong tantrik spells that could kill the man disguised as Hiranyakashyap. Therefore, the mask underwent changes many times. The present mask, brought as the sixth substitute, has enough power to make the dancer disguised

as Hiranyakashyap fall unconscious. It is also believed that the power of the present one has diminished, causing no chronic harm to the dancer.

According to religious texts however, Narsingh forces the demon lord to his knees, squatting all the while on the threshold. While doing that, he’s neither completely inside nor outside; neither completely human nor completely animal but both. In this way, Narsingh fulfills the conditions required to be able to kill the demon lord who was favored by Lord Brahma.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

people&culture

55

The first mask used was considered to be very powerful with strong tantrik spells that could kill the man disguised as Hiranyakashyap.

The answer to whether or not this festival made the people of 17th century Nepal happy is something that they took to their deathbeds. What is certain is that, the annual event surely lets members of the audience lose themselves happily to a festival that was intended to make people happy.

And that, is one of the prime purposes of art and the answer to why the festival remains apt for present time.

The 8th or the final day of the festival stages a performance of the mighty Narsingha - incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

56

destinationspotlight

The Serene Face of the Far-West

khaptad Khaptad National Park, known popularly as Khaptad, lies in the Seti zone of far-western Nepal.

It is contiguous with four districts: Bajura in the east, Doti in the west, Bajhang in the north, and Achham in the south. Dhangadhi and Nepalgunj, major towns in the western Terai, can be reached either by air or by road from Kathmandu. Motor roads connect these two towns to all four districts bordering Khaptad. You can trek to Khaptad from any of the four districts, but the route through Silgadi, a small town in Doti, is one most commonly used by locals as well as trekkers. While in Silgadi, a visit to the Shaileshwori temple, which is revered as one of the holiest temples in Nepal’s far-west, is recommended.

Words & Photos Kapil Bisht

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

destinationspotlight

57

Fast Facts on Khaptad National Park

Location Khaptad National Park is located in the mid-mountain region of Far-Western Nepal at an air distance of 446 km. from Kathmandu. The core area is situated at the cross point of the Bijhang, Bajura, Doti and Achham Districts of Seti Zone.

Main wildlife found: Leopard, Himalayan yellow-throated marten, Himalayan tahr and others. The common bird species include Impeyan pheasant, kalij pheasant, monal, red and yellow-billed blue magpie, and Himalayan griffin. A wide variety of colorful butterflies, moths and insects are also an important feature of the Khaptad ecosystem.

1 From Silgadi, Khaptad can be reached in a single day, or in two, depending upon the physical abilities of the trekker. Baglekh is the first settlement on the trail after Silgadi. A road has been dug up to Baglekh, and jeeps make a few trips a day between Silgadi and Baglekh. Although a few houses are scattered along the trail for a distance after Baglekh, the next major settlement is a few hours away, in Jhigrana. For those that do not wish to strain their bodies any further after their climb from Silgadi, Jhigrana is the place to spend the night, since it is the last permanent settlement before Khaptad. It also marks the entry point to the Khaptad National Park, and admission fees need to be paid in the park office beside the army barracks.

Beechpani, which marks the mid-point between Jhigrana and Khaptad, is reached after a strenuous climb of almost four hours. Beechpani, with its single tea shop, is the only settlement between Jhigrana and Khaptad. Because the movement of people passing through the area is very low, Beechpani is not always inhabited. To address this problem a guesthouse for travelers has been constructed by the Khaptad Tourism Development Committee.

Four to five hours from Beechpani, the forests end and the trail opens out to the vista of small hillocks and a stream. Following the trail beside

the stream, you arrive at one of the most famous landmarks of Khaptad: the Sitapaila Temple. The temple houses a stone that has a footprint etched on it, which is believed to belong to Sita, wife of the Hindu god, Rama. Further along the trail, situated at the confluence of two rivers, is the Tribeni Temple. Every year, on the occasion of the festival of Ganga Dushara, a mela is held in the vicinity of this temple, attracting thousands of devotees.

Half-an-hour from the Tribeni temple is the headquarters of the Khaptad National Park, the army barracks, and another building belonging to the Khaptad Tourism Development Committee.

These buildings form the only permanent settlement inside the park, and the only places to stay (unless you’re carrying a tent) in Khaptad. Here too, the Khaptad Tourism Development Committee has started construction of a guesthouse. Although the people here are very hospitable and generous, and wouldn’t turn anyone away if they had a place to spare, it is advisable to make arrangements beforehand for a place to stay.

The people here are very hospitable and generous, and wouldn’t turn anyone away if they had a place to spare.

Area: It consists of 225 sq. km of forest and meadows, and lies on a plateau where the districts of Bhajhang, Bajura, Doti and Achham meet.

2

3

1.

A patan carpeted in wild flowers.

2.

Himalayan Pika

3.

Another member of Khaptad’s colorful world.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

58

destinationspotlight

1

2

3

area that may be of historical or archaeological importance. The walk to Khaptad Daha is also an opportunity to spot some of the bird species found in Khaptad. To increase the chances of seeing the birds and animals in the area, it is best to visit the lake in the early morning or late evening.

There is a patan to the north of the lake. The summits of the hillocks in this patan offer splendid views of the Api and Saipal mountain ranges.

1.

The Khaptad Daha.

2.

One of Khaptad’s 22 patans or meadows.

3.

A view of the Saipal range

These grassy expanses, where the bells around the cattle’s necks tinkle in accompaniment to the sounds of Nature, are one of the most beatific spots in Khaptad.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

Music of the Meadows

Numerous interesting sites are at walking distances from the park headquarters. The hermitage of Khaptad Baba, who spent more than five decades meditating in Khaptad, is a short walk from the park headquarters. Khaptad is best known for its open areas of hillocks and meadows, known locally as patan. There are 22 such patans in the national park. For brief periods during the year, herders from the surrounding villages bring their cattle to feed on these meadows. During this period, they rig long huts, called goth, for themselves and their cattle. These grassy expanses, where the bells around the cattle’s necks tinkle in accompaniment to the sounds of nature, are one of the most beatific spots in Khaptad. One of the largest and most picturesque of these patans, Ghodadauney Patan, is a few minutes away from the headquarters. Another interesting place to visit is Naagdhunga, a rock which has numerous serpentine protrusions running across its face.

Khaptad Daha, a small lake, is another site of religious significance. On its shores is an old temple known as Khaparmandu. There are also a few small stone structures shaped like temples in the

The Mountain ranges can also be seen from Sahasralinga, which at 3,300 meters is the highest point in the park. One of the most sacred spots in the park, the Sahasralinga Temple, is located here.

Apart from its religious importance, the area is also a prime habitat of the Pika, a small mouselike mammal which, according to the Warden of Khaptad National Park, is a hare and not a mouse.

A Haven for Wildlife

The religious importance and the picturesque landscape of Khaptad often shadow its rich biodiversity. Khaptad was declared a national park in 1984. It occupies an area of 225 sq. km. and is the only national park in western Nepal that lies in a mid-mountain region. This unique geographic location has endowed the park with a unique biodiversity.

There are a total of 11 forest types in the park.

Khaptad is fabled for its plants and flowers. A total of 567 types of flora are estimated to grow here, with 372 of them already listed. Plants having medicinal properties abound here; 125 such plants have been identified. Among these plants is Taxus bacata, which is used in making medicines used in curing cancer. Poisonous plants, although fewer in number, also grow here; the number of poisonous plants is around 50. In spring and summer, the meadows of Khaptad are covered in the

www.traveltimes-mag.com

60

destinationspotlight

1.

Scaly-bellied Woodpecker

2.

White-capped Water Redstart Himalayan Pika

3.

A horse feeding on the lush patan

1 2

3 spectacular hues of primulas, buttercups, wild berries, and numerous other flower species.

In 1996, a new species of frog, Khaptad Pelobatig Toad (scutiger nipalensis), was discovered in Khaptad. It is also the only place where the Bajhang Frog (paa ercepeae) is found.

Khaptad’s diverse vegetation and the pristine condition of its forests have created a haven for some of the rarest and most beautiful fauna. There are 23 species of mammals inhabiting the park. Protected species like the musk deer, leopard cat, and grey wolf are found here. The park also has two globally threatened species: the Asiatic Black Bear and the Asiatic Wild Dog. Other animals found in the park include Yellow-throated Marten, leopard, wild boar, and Rheuses and Langur monkeys.

The park is also a great destination for bird watching. A total of 287 species of birds have been reported in Khaptad, out of which 175 species nest here. It is a resting place for some migratory species as well. A number of protected bird species are also found here. These include the Impeyan Pheasant (Nepal’s national bird), Satyr Tragopan, and Cheer Pheasant. Three species of vultures can

also be seen here, including the globally-threatened and critically endangered White-rumped Vulture. Numerous species of woodpeckers, partridges, flycatchers, cuckoos, and eagles are also common here.

Khaptad occupies a special place in the annals of Nepal’s natural history. In 1996, a new species of frog, Khaptad Pelobatig Toad (scutiger nipalensis), was discovered in Khaptad. It is also the only place where the Bajhang Frog (paa ercepeae) is found.

A Sage’s Choice

Khaptad has something for everyone, whether they are pilgrims, trekkers, bird watchers, naturalists, biologists, historians, or photographers.

After spending a few days in this tranquil and unspoiled place, listening to nothing except the sounds of Nature and the distant cries of herders calling out to their companions, it isn’t difficult to understand why Khaptad Baba chose to spend fifty years here.

getTING there The road to all the districts from where one can trek to Khaptad – Doti, Achham, Bajhang, and Bajura – branches off from the east-west highway at Attariya. To get to Attariya from Kathmandu, you can fly to Nepalgunj, from where you have to travel by road to Attariya. There are also daily flights to Dhangdahi, which is only 14 kilometers from Attariya. Buses bound for Dhangadhi also leave Kathmandu everyday. By road, Attariya is around 700 kilometers from Kathmandu, and driving to it is a good way to see Nepal’s western and far-western Terai. From Attariya, buses and jeeps leave throughout the day for the districts of Doti, Achham, Bajhang, and Bajura. The most popular and busiest route is the one that starts from Silgadi, a small town in Doti.

Although there are ample places to eat and stay on the trail, there are no such arrangements in Khaptad. It is thus necessary to make arrangements for a place to stay in Khaptad beforehand. Arrangements can be made with the Khaptad Tourism Development Committee. It is best to visit Khaptad between March and May or October and November.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

The author is grateful to Lt. Col. Tek Chanda and Subarna Lal Chitrakar for their help, to Major Hari Sharan Adhikari for his hospitality, and to Narayan Rupakheti, Warden of Khaptad National Park for providing information on the park’s flora and fauna. For more information on Khaptad, contact the Khaptad Tourism Development Committee office in Silgadi.

Phone: 094-420320.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

61

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

62

foodrink

Aeila

A Sip of Fire Water

Who knew the zest of all celebrations was served in a palm sized earthern cup! Take a sip of this divine liquor and see it for yourself.

Words Nandita Rana Photos Suresh Maharjan

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

63

A

sip of it ignites a fire within. It journeys from the mouth, it’s rare, intense taste burning up as it moves down and finally rests at the pit of your stomach. It’s strong, no doubt about it, but there is hardly any comparison to that heated rush. Once you get the hang of it, every gulp of aeila is bliss.

All gastronomic gratification in Newar culture commences with this element - aeila. For the indigenous dwellers of the Kathmandu valley, the traditional, alcoholic beverage is a symbol of frivolity that is equivalent to holy water. The drink is pure enough to offer to deities and used as shagun; to congratulate and wish good luck.

As you sit down for a traditional Newari bhoj or feast, this elite liquor is served first, in a particular fashion. The drink is poured into a Salincha, (an earthen cup, roughly the size of one’s palm) by senior, female members of the host family. A special pitcher called an antee*, characterized by a delicately curved spout is used to pour the aeila. The art of pouring this liquor is itself quite sophisticated. The women raise the antee higher as they fill the salincha, achieving a bubbly fill.

The origin of this near divine liquor is unknown but is not without a myth or two, which make for great drinking stories.

Some believe that its tradition descended from the Malla dynasty, rulers of the Kathmandu valley. The Malla Kings were luxuriant people, adept policy makers and lovers of art. Good food was a matter of indulgence and respect for them. They loved entertainment, leading to the popularity of magic shows in their courts. Renowned magicians from India visited often and performed complicated tricks to impress the royals. It so chanced that the kings themselves were equally skilled in some magic, with which they would often challenge the magicians and their skills. It was in during such demonstration that one

The drink is pure enough to offer to deities and used as shagun; to congratulate and wish good luck.

samay baji, a platter of Newari delicacies served with aeila. *antee: pronounced as un-tee

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

64

foodrink

of the Malla queens prepared aeila, not by burning logs, but by using her legs instead. The magic trick wasn’t repeated but the tradition of brewing the amazing drink was.

The quality of the drink also measures up a Newar feast; the better the aeila, the more successful the bhoj.

Apart from occasional bhoj or visiting local inns, these modern restaurants serve some fine aeila: Bhoe Chhen Restaurant Basantapur Plaza, Basantapur Ph.4221811 Nepali Chulo Lazimpat, Kathmandu Ph. 4418206, 4220475 Utsav Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Ph.4430170

Determining the quality of aeila is an entirely different story and best left to experts – usually the elder females of a family. Taking aeila in a salincha, they set it on fire and observe the color of the flame. A blue flame means less water and thus high quality aeila. No wonder the gods are offered only the best and the strongest liquor possible. Some traditional experts, meanwhile, can distinguish its quality by its smell and texture, besides its taste.

Aeila is one of those drinks that get better with time and increases in medicinal value. A Newar household without a few litres of the drink stocked for emergencies is quite rare with some families

Ambience Restaurant Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur, Ph. 5538980 Newa Lahana Kirtipur, Ph. 9849029966

TIMES

Although an alcoholic drink, taken in small doses, it acts as medicine for simple ailments. The drink serves as a painkiller and as a homemade remedy for problems such as common cold, stomach pain and even gas formation. Old beliefs claim that consuming aeila during child birth will often lead to easier birth process.

Traditional Newar farmers would consume aeila as a staple drink, having a little before going to the fields, a little during lunch and a little again before going to bed. In other words, aeila is perhaps a traditional version of the popular Red Bull. This is true for well-prepared, homemade aeila and not really to the more common, commercial variety.

Aeila is best homemade and preparations start a month or two before festivals and lifetime rituals such as childbirth, naming ceremony (Nwaran), feeding ceremony (pasni), hair cutting ceremony (bartabanda) and marriage. The process of its preparation is similar in all Newar communities, but what makes slight differences here and there is the infusion of spices such as pepper or sometimes clove and cinnamon – making it a truly gourmet drink.

Aeila Preparation Aeila is a home-made liquor processed through a traditional distillation procedure. It uses four traditional utensils preparation.

Fosi, a large copper vessel contains the cut – the life of aeila which is a mixture of jaggery, a special kind of beaten rice and fermented rice which is left to stand for about a month (no sooner than that).

The fosi is heated using firewood,

Bhancha Ghar Kamaladi, Kathmandu Ph. 4225172

decemBER 2010

Aeila is the only alcoholic beverage offered in temples of Hindu deities, except for those of Hindu deity Vishnu. Aeila is mandatory while offering shagun, and is held in the right hand while the left hand holds other offerings. The quality of the drink also measures up a Newar feast; the better the aeila, the more successful the bhoj. Even today, many Newars prefer a good salinc-ful of aeila to go with their feast to imported drinks.

having saved aeila that is 50 years old.

preferred over modern stoves.

The fosi contains an earthen pot inside it, called a Hasi has tiny openings on the bottom to let the cut evaporate.

Finally, dubuli, a smaller earthen pot contained inside a hasi collects the distilled alcohol, which drips down as it condenses on the walls of the bata.

The fosi is then covered by an inverted brass cover, Aeila Bata, filled with cold water. It has has to be changed from time to time and works as a condenser vessel for the evaporated cut.

Approximately four-five liters of aeila are collected in one preparation, which continues over days to collect the required amount of aeila for any occasion.

1. Newar women clad in traditional attire preparing aeila 2. L to R: Dubuli, Hasi, aeila bata utensils to prepare aeila

www.traveltimes-mag.com

65

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

66

Rec

å

mmended restaurants&B rs

Nepali

CHinese/ Japanese The Ghangri Café Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5528703

Café De Patan Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 4228833 samaya baji

D’ Square Café Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 5545056

italian/ continental

Crumbed Prawn

Bhoe Chhen Newari Restaurant & Bar Basantarpur Tel: 2331028

Baithak BhabarMahal Revisited Tel: 4267346

Beijing Roast Duck Restaurant Jawalakhel, Patan Tel: 5547453

Dhokaima Café Patan Dhoka Tel: 5522113

Café Du Temple Patan Dhoka Square Tel: 5527127

Vishram Restaurant Basantapur Tel.2012127

layeku Restaurant Bhaktaour Tel. 4781104

Courtyard Restaurant & bar Kamaladi Tel: 4253056

Rice and Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel: 4251678

Bourbon Room Narayhitimarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4441703

PIZZA

Mandarin Palace Babar Mahal Revisited Tel: 4212675

Road House Café Thamel Tel: 4426168, 5521755

Chopstix Kumaripati, Patan Tel: 5551118

Dan Ran Japanese Restaurant Pulchowk Tel: 5521027

Pizza Xpress Lazimpat Tel: 2161212

Hadock Dining & Bar Pulchowk Tel: 554631

TIAN rui Chinese Thapathali Tel.: 4243078

Fire and Ice Pizzeria Thamel Tel: 4250210

green Olive Restaurant & sisha bar Chhetrapati, Ktm. Tel. : 4212730 La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel. : 4700612 Rum Doodle Thamel Tel.: 4701107

Borderline

Borderline’s menu comprises mostly of snack meals. Apart from regular Continental dishes, it also serves Lebanese, Greek and Mexican cuisine. Italian barbecue pizza and Chicken Stroganoff are amongst the signature dishes here. The organic coffee available here is grown in the hills of Nepal.

Talk about a perfect spot to enjoy a snack while peeking at the latest arrivals in the market. The Borderline Café & Bar located at one of the top shopping malls in Nepal, United World Trade Center, is one such place. Situated on the first floor of UWTC, the café is no new name to mall regulars.

Borderline has a fine hall setting with big glass window on one side overlooking the busy mall while the other side exhibits classy paintings. Pamper yourself on one

decemBER 2010

TIMES

of the comfortable sofas as you enjoy the view and munch on the delicacies on offer.

Borderline also has a big hall on the other side of the restaurant, designed especially for small parties. Clear demarcations between the smoking and non-smoking zones in the restaurant is an admirable attempt on the part of the restaurant. The bar opposite the entrance stocked with all kinds of liquor, serves a variety of cocktails and mocktails; no better way to take a break from shopping.

Borderline is soon to open a separate vegetarian section with a separate kitchen and a new menu for next year; one more reason to make a stop by.

Location: 1st Floor, UWTC, Tripureshwor, Kathmandu Specialty: Continental Must Tries: Chicken Stroganoff, Coffee

www.traveltimes-mag.com

67

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

68

Rec

å

mmended restaurants&B rs CAFE

Indian

chicken biryani

MULTI

Cappuccino

Dhaba Restautant & Bar Thapathali Tel; 4100510

sizzler

Delicatessen Centre Café Durbar Marg Tel: 4221331

Tehzeeb Restaurant Durbar Marg Tel: 4233037

Lobsters’ Sherpa Mall, Durbar Marg Tel: 4231323, 4231437

Imago Del Café Gallery Nag Pokhari Tel: 442464

Bawarchi The restrobar Lazimpat Tel. 2150050

Bhumi Restro Lounge Lazimpat Tel: 4412193

Ezer Book Café Sanepa Tel: 5546578

The Factory Restaurant & Bar Thamel Tel: 4701185, 4701187

chapter 9 Jhamsikhel, lalitpur Tel.: 5525979

Himalayan Java Thamel Tel: 4253056

Bronco billy Harihar bhawan Tel. 5526212

Ghar-e-kabab durbarmarg Tel.: 4221711

The Bakery Café Kathmandu Tel: 4464438

Café Cheeno Patan Tel. 012210423

VESPER CAFE Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5548179

lakhey restaurant and bar Durbarmarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4256606

Red Dingo Jawalakhel, lalitpur Tel.: 01-6914930

Jatra Thamel Tel: 4700043

MOODS Studio lounge Bluebird Mall, Tripureshwor Tel. : 4215740

BUZZ Baluwatar, Ktm. Tel.: 4429903

Jingles Family garden resturant and friends alike. An open terrace setting overlooks the garden. The corner of the garden has a small cottage with tables set for two; ideal for a little private time between couples. The light arrangements in the garden and in the cottage helps bring out the best of the place.

A beautiful garden with a small pond, tranquil environment and good food; these features definitely add up to create a great ambience for a restaurant located along a busy street. The place is ideal for a quick getaway amidst the hustle and bustle of the city for friends and even for families.

The first thing that one notices at Jingles is its garden restaurant. Beautifully set tables in the green garden with a small fish pond

decemBER 2010

TIMES

in the center surprises guests pleasantly.

The green parrots and tiny sparrows at one-end and white rabbits at another end of the garden add to the natural mood of the place. As you enter the main building, bright colors and traditional utensils showcased add a touch of tradition to the otherwise modern building.

While the place serves mainly four different cuisines - Indian, Chinese, Italian and Continental, it specializes in Continental dishes. The food is great and the service is timely and efficient. Jingles can be a good choice to spend a wonderful family gathering this New Year’s Eve.

Location: Tripureswor Specialty: Continental

The restaurant’s comfortable private floor setting is ideal for get-togethers for family

Must Tries: Golden Fried Prawn

www.traveltimes-mag.com

70

adventureintro

Swinging bythe canyons

A leap of 100m into the dramatic gorge and swinging at 240m at 150 km per hour, The Last Resort’s Canyon swing is an adventure of a lifetime.

Words Nandita Rana Photos Rocky Prajapati

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

71

S

uperhero movies have ways of spoiling audiences. Demonstrations of their unrealistic defiance of gravity often leave us craving for a break from normalcy. It validates the child in us to set loose and explore the wilderness within.

As kids, a two-man army of my brother and I would indulge in our quest to become superheroes. Jumping off a storey and landing in a pile of debris in our grandfather’s property was enough to excite an addictive rush of adrenaline through us. The many people I’ve shared this experience with, have all had similar stories to tell. There is no denying the natural link between man and his primordial sense of flight and fury, which when triggered from time to time is the ultimate feeling of being truly alive.

Take for example the resort atop a gorge near the Nepal Tiber border, to the North east of Kathmandu; the fittingly titled, The Last Resort. This deceivingly quaint place first exudes a sense of a

calm getaway in the lap of nature. Its true face is something else. The resort comes with a definite agenda - adventure sports that blow your mind.

From bungee jumping from a 160m high bridge and white water rafting in the crazy Bhote Koshi River to canyoning through hidden passages and beautiful waterfalls, which are in abundance there – the landscape and the resort combine to reveal a thrill chasers’ paradise.

The Last Resort’s Canyon Swing is one the highest free falls in the world and the mother of adrenaline pumping sport - the kind that has one’s heart beating out of one’s body.

However, there I was, once again, on a cold, breezy November afternoon, standing on a suspension bridge above the roaring Bhote Koshi River, asking myself – “What am I even doing here?” I must have been out of my mind to try to re-live my childhood heroic jumps. Only this time, the scale of the jump was epic, and a hundred times more dangerous.

The Last Resort’s Canyon Swing is one the highest free falls in the world and the mother of adrenaline pumping sports the kind that has one’s heart beating out of one’s body.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

72

adventureintro

The rush of adrenaline that surges through you, the reminiscence of the fear and the feeling of relief once you are done, makes a potent concoction.

The shrill shrieks of fellow (canyon) swingers and (bungee) jumpers echoed as they took the plunge of their lives. Their excitement is what kept me waiting in the queue. In a few minutes, as someone fit a harness on me, it suddenly dawned on me how serious a sport a canyon swing really is. A rope was attached to the harness at my waist - the final addition and my only support, as I get ready to be one with nature.

Stepping on to the jumping platform takes a lot of courage. There is no turning back then on. On the count of three, as I let go of the platform and my inhibitions, the free fall began, legs first, 100m into the dramatic gorge, experiencing the kind of emotion that is impossible to recreate in any other way – a very personal moment. The swing then swung 240m at an amazing 150km per hour in the twin line only a few meters above the raging river. The blankness, the chill, the twinge in your stomach and shivers I felt running up my fingertips was exhilarating. After the free fall,

which lasts for some eight seconds, the tug of the rope somewhat brought me back to my senses. Like a tiny spider hanging from its web, I swayed into the vastness of nature, right between gigantic gorges. The rush of adrenaline that surges through you, the reminiscence of the fear and the feeling of relief once you are done, makes a potent concoction.

An approximately half an hour climb followed to the top after I was freed from the rope by a bamboo pole. Every step on that hike was like a post swing meditation. Once at the top and face to face with that hellish bridge, I basked in the joy of realizing that I had conquered my fears. The feeling of energy and elation was magical. It got me to anticipate that death-defying plunge one more time!

The Canyon swing, FAQs What is included?

The day package includes transportation and lunch while the overnight package includes accommodation, meals and transportation, including the swing of course.

How many times a week is it carried out?

During peak season, March to

decemBER 2010

TIMES

November, it is carried out every other day. During off-season, June to February, it is carried out twice a week on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

minimum weight for the canyon swing is 40 kg with a maximum of 110 kg.

pressure patients, people lighter than 40 kg and heavier than 110 kg.

Things to remember

Requirements

Who can or cannot do the Canyon Swing?

The swing is not for people with underlying mental and physical conditions, and those who have undergone surgery recently. Also on the will not be served list: high blood

There is no age limit but in case of children, parent’s signed approval is needed and they should be physically and mentally fit for the sport. The

Wear shoes that fit well. You don’t want them to fall off into the river!

Finally, follow the Jump master’s instructions for a wild yet safe experience. Now jump.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

73

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

74

globaltreasrue

Halong Bay of Descending Dragons

Ha Long Bay indeed is “a wonder of the earth, erected toward the high skies,” as described by one of Vietnam’s greatest national poet, Nguy˜ên Trãi.

Words Sradda Thapa

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com www.traveltimes-mag.com

gloBaltreasrue

75 75

The islands that dot the seascape are a sight to behold for any nature lover.

F

declaration is not of empty words, for the rock-formations found here are so unique that visitors are often left speechless at first sight.

The claim of proud Vietnamese that Halong Bay is the eighth wonder of the world is not to farfetched. Halong Bay has Ðầu Gỗ Island to its west, Hầm Lake to its south and Cống Tây Island to its east. The area is also listed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. First in 1994 and then again as a World Heritage Site for the second time in 2000, UNESCO has appreciated the bay for its exceptional scenic beauty and outstanding geological and geomorphic values. This

The journey is designed around a spectacular glimpse of the three thousand islands jetting off, of the Gulf of Tonking. The islands that dot the seascape are a sight to behold for any nature lover. Some of the islands are tiny Mangrove. Many more have strips of beaches perfect for sunbathing and relaxing. Gazing at the unique limestone formations leisurely from the sandy beaches is every bit worthwhile as from the cruise boats.

Over the centuries, the natural curves of the rocks have created the most curious

or a place that legends claim witnessed the descent of dragons, Halong Bay is mysteriously calm yet every bit mystical. The same mystique is the reason why travelers from all over the world come here to walk on it’s beaches, take a cruise and crawl through it’s caves.

Weather Halong Bay attracts visitors year-round, but it is worth noting that the water is said to the calmest during the spring and early summer. February to April is cool and drizzly and though the fog may make visibility low, it only adds to the mythical nature of the site.

Additionally, while temperatures rarely dip below 10°C, tropical storms are typical during the summer months and tourist boats have to adjust their itinerary accordingly.

TIMES TIMES SEPTEMBER december 2010 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

76

gloBaltreasrue

Tips As a popular site where tourists trot along precious paths, tourists are expected to keep from hunting for natural souvenirs. Rare corals and seashells have been increasingly removed from the ocean bed using which locals make kitschy souvenirs such as key-chains, paperweights and ashtrays.

Contribute to the splendor of the place by not picking natural trinkets and not purchasing such items from the market.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

shapes prompting the locals to name the islands after to what they resemble. Hòn Ðầu Người translates to “Human Head Island” for it literally looks like one. Hòn Rông means “Dragon Island” because it looks like a dragon hovering above the surface of the waters. Hòn Lã Vọng looks like a man fishing. Hòn Trống Mái take the cake for the funniest island, translating as “Male and Female Chicken Island” because it looks like two chickens playing lovingly with each other.

Of course the best way to maneuver around the bay of cascading mountain islands is to nestle yourself into a boat and cruise away all afternoon. You can opt for a quick one or two day cruise, but chances are once you get there you will change your mind and book the whole 10-day package so that you can soak in the grandeur without a rush.

Boat cruises to traverse the seascape can be booked privately or shared with other passengers. If sitting on a boat seems borderline boring to you, you can always take a quick dip in the cool waters, explore the small alcoves and gawk at the caves.

Tourists come to view the limestone formations, but also to explore some of the beck-

www.traveltimes-mag.com

gloBaltreasrue

77

oning caves. A few are even illuminated after the sun goes down, much to the delight of travelers and explorers.

Despite being the number one tourist attraction in the Northeast of the country, most of the islands are uninhabited and relatively unaffected by human presence – the population is just over a thousand. Add one to that number and soak up the natural beauty of Halong Bay.

Getting There Halong Bay is a popular one-day trip from Hanoi at a mere165 km distance. Easily accessible by public bus or private cars, the four-hour drive to the Bay of Descending Dragons will pass by quickly as you enjoy the paddy fields between the two locations.

Your agent might suggest booking a hotel at Halong City, the gateway to Halong Bay. But sleeping on the boats docked on the bay (permitted!), can make for a better experience. After all, Halong City may be the gateway, but the attraction is still Halong Bay!

Basic Vietnamese What’s your name?

Nice to meet you!

How are you?

I’m fine, thanks!

Thank you (very much)!

You’re welcome! (for “thank you”) How much is this?

Hi! Good morning!

Good evening!

Ba.n tên gì?

Rất vui được gặp bạn. bạn có khỏe không?, khỏe chứ? (informal) Cám ơn bạn tôi khỏe Cám ơn (rất nhiều) Đừng ngại (don’t mind asking for my help) Cái này giá bao nhiêu? chào chào buổi sáng chào buổi tối

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

78

nature&wildlife

Suklaphanta Wildlife Reserve Home of the Great Herds

A tiger captured in a Camera trap in Suklaphanta Wildlife Reserve

A huntersville turned into a wildlife sanctuary, Suklaphanta Wildlife reserve is an iconic landmark in Nepal’s biodiversity. The historic white grasslands of the reserve is home to thousands of animal species in Nepal’s far west.

Words Kapil Bisht Photos Courtesy WWF Nepal

decemBER 2010

TIMES

T

he plentiful wildlife of SuklaphantaWildlife Reserve was always in the sights of hunters. Licenses were issued for hunting and hunting trips were frequently organized. In 1969 however, Suklaphanta was declared a royal hunting reserve and hunting became prohibited. Then, seven years later, the area was made into a wildlife reserve to protect the species that had historically drawn great hunting trips.

Located in the Kanchanpur district of Nepal’s far west, the SuklaphantaWildlife Reserve occupies an area of 305 sq. km.

In 2004, an additional 243 sq.km were designated as a buffer zone. Located in Nepal’s Terai plains, the reserve is close to the Indian border and has always been a place where animals from the neighboring jungles of India have sojourned.

Animals from Suklaphanta frequently migrate to the Indian side as well. One of the most famous examples of this migration of animals is of an elephant named Thulo Hatti, which in

www.traveltimes-mag.com

nature&Wildlife

79

Boselaphus tragocamelus, Nilgai, at the Royal Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve.

Terai Arc, Nepal

© Jeff Foott/WWF-Canon

Map of Suklaphanta Wildlife Reserve

the 1990s was the tallest living Asian elephant. Sadly, poachers killed the elephant after it crossed over into India.

Suklaphanta Wildlife Reserve is known for its large, savanna-like grasslands, known as phants. Among all the protected areas in Nepal’s Terai, it has the largest grassland. The reserve is named after the largest of such grasslands, Suklaphanta, meaning ‘white grassland’. The name is a reference to the color of the grassland, which turns white during winter when the grass blooms. Great plumes of white smoke can be seen in these grassy expanses when the reserve employees set fire to selected areas. The ash from the fires helps the growth of new grass, which in turn supports the large herds of swamp deer in the reserve.

The reserve has the largest herd of swamp deer in the world. Some herds have over 700 individual deer, a remarkable number but not anywhere near the 1000 strong herds that used to graze in these grasslands some decades ago. At a count conducted three years ago, it was found that there were 1,674 swamp deer in the reserve.

The swamp deer is one out of the reserve’s 52 species of mammals including two endangered species - the Asian Elephant and the Royal Bengal Tiger. Also in the reserve are a good number of leopards, Blue Bulls, Barking Deer and Hog Deer. In 2000, one-horned rhinoceroses were transferred here from the Chitwan National Park, itself a huge wildlife sanctuary.

The area is also home to numerous lakes; the biggest

ones being Salgoudi Tal and Rani Tal. An old temple of Shiva near Rani Tal, lures in a sizeable crowd of devotees during the Dashain. There are evidences of old settlements, perhaps centuries old, in the reserve; ruins of houses built from an old type of brick near the army barracks. In fact, a Tharu village was situated in the Suklaphanta grassland in the days when the Terai was still considered a death-zone due to the threat from malaria.

Suklaphanta’s grasslands, forests, and water bodies are a haven for numerous bird species, 4222 to be precise, many of whom thrive in numbers that are unequalled in any other protected area in Nepal. It has the largest Bengal Florican population in Nepal and is home to one of the world’s tallest birds, the Sarus Crane. Rare bird species such as swamp francolin and lesser florican are often spotted.

The streams and lakes in the reserve are inhabited by 21 species of fish, which include the mahaseer and the rohu. Mugger crocodiles can be seen basking in the sun on the banks of streams. There are 12 species of reptiles in the reserve, including pythons and different species of cobras.

The name is a reference to the color of the grassland, which turns white during winter when the grass blooms.

Suklaphanta has come a long way from the days when it was the playground of hunters. This beautiful reserve has emerged, like the grass after a fire in the grasslands, afresh from the ashes of its days as a hunting reserve. In its large grasslands, the swamp deer have a chance to roam wild and free and to once again form a great herd.

TIMES december 2010

PHOTOLOGUE

caravan a PHOTOGRAPHic journey with

in the western region of nepal, humla

Photos Rocky Prajapati

|

Words Nisha Shakya

The far western region in the Karnali zone, is the remotest part of Nepal, untouched by modern amenities, with perpetuated unique culture and magical landscapes.

Humla, an olden region nestled in the Himalaya at the edge of northern territory of Nepal, is one of the isolated regions of the country. The turquoise Karnali River that flows through the place, the magnificent landscapes of eternally snow-capped mountains, high plateaus and the fascinating villages in the narrow valleys, distinctive and untarnished culture of the place are of deep appreciation.

Humla, the gateway to Mount Kailash,

This is a common sight you get to see if you travel to Humla.

People with a herd of goats carrying small pouches on both sides heading to or from Tibet can be spotted.

is inaccessible to road transportation.

The only mode of transportation in this region is the animals. Out of the reach of the modernization, the Humli people travel all the way towards the Tibetan side with their caravan to trade even for the basic needs such as salt. Driving the yaks, mules, and Himalayan goats over the death-defying mountain trials, the Humli set out on their caravan.

The Jatra is really one of its kinds as the chariot is structured upside down giving it a bell-like look. The gajur (crown) is situated at the bottom and is upturned too.

Stumbling and fumbling up the vertiginous cliffs. Yaks and mules are the main transport here.

Up and down the steep mountains, with heavy sack packs, we walk for our survival.

Our caravan to Tibet has started.

photologue

The goats of hidden Himalaya with hidden eyes.

The herd with a shepherd travel through the precarious trails to the lower climes in winter.

Crossing the bridge over the Karnali river, I‘ve just come from Tibetan side with my things laden over my mule.

Locals observing the jatra from the veranda of their home. Relatives are invited during the jatra to observe it and feasts are organized.

A Newari woman returning after paying homage to the chariot after the jatra.

The tale of the Haadigaun Jatra is related to the story of two pregnant sisters. Once while they were talking about the birth of their children, one of them said that she would give birth when Lord Vishnu wishes so while the other laughed at the stupidity of her sister and said that giving birth is an easy job. At the time of delivery, the former sister delivered her baby easily while the other did not give birth. She yet ignored her sister’s advice to pray to Lord Vishnu and waited for her child’s birth.

Twelve years went by. She finally went to the mountains and meditated in the name of Satya Narayan. After a long meditation and a promise to organize a jatra that had never ever taken place, she finally gave birth to a baby.

This unique festival of Newars celebrated in this part of the valley with its own significance is recognized as “Kahi nabhako Jatra, Haadigaunma” (No festival like the one at Haadigaun). The festival is celebrated the very next day of the Kojagrat Purnima (the last day of Dashain).

www.traveltimes-mag.com

photologue

85

Under the blue sky, walking over the wobbly road, we risk our lives daily.

TIMES december 2010

Walking from dawn to dusk with the burden, need some rest for a while. It’s our lunch time.

Bending right stretching my muscles, still have long way to go to reach Tibet for salt.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

photologue

87

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

88

festivalwatch

Thanking Nature

Sakela Udhauli

What sets this festival apart is the Sakela dance performed by a large group of traditionally attired Kiratis making a large circle.

decemBER 2010

TIMES

S

akela Udhauli, the festival of the Kirant people is their way of thanking nature for providing good crops.

The festival falls in the Nepali month of Mangsir (Nov/Dec) and carries great significance for people of the Kirant dynasty, who believe in Shamanism and worship nature. Sakela Udhauli is a means of paying gratitude towards the benevolence of nature and offering prayers for wellbeing and protection. Udhauli meaning downwards, signifies the migration pattern of birds towards the warmer Terrain belt during this time of the year. The ritual starts from Chula Puja, performed at home by a Kirant priest, Nakchhong. After the puja, the Nakchhong performs the sacrificial rites at a sa-

Sakela Udhauli is all about paying gratitude to the benevolence of nature and offering prayers for wellbeing and protection.

Words Nisha Shakya

cred place known as Chandi Than, usually under a sacred tree.

Sakela Ubhauli on the other hand is celebrated during Baisakh (April/May), as it is the start of farming and cultivation time. Ubhauli means upwards and symbolizes the migration of birds upwards at this time. It is celebrated for 15 days, starting from Baisakh Purnima.

What sets this festival apart is the Sakela dance performed by a large group of traditionally attired Kirantis making a large circle. There are male and female leaders in each circle known as Silimangpa and Silimangma respectively. These two control the sili, the style of the dance, while the other

dancers follow their lead. The sili is a special kind of dance move that reflects the different aspects of human life and their relationship with nature. The Nakchhong himself initiates the Sakela dance, indicating the completion of rituals. Everybody participates in the dance with Dhol and Jhyamta (traditional musical instruments) following the footsteps of the sili.

The celebration of this festival links itself to Kirant mythology. According to these myths,

before the marriage of Sumnima and Paruhang, ancestors of the Kirants, Paruhang used to live in heaven. One day, he saw beautiful Sumnima on earth and fell in love with her prompting him to make a beautiful comb and send it to her. Married soon, they soon became parents of four children.

Not long after though, Paruhang left Sumnima in a hut on the banks of the Dudhkoshi River and did not return for a long time. One day, she saw a creeper on a stone while she was in search of food for her chil-

www.traveltimes-mag.com

Festivalwatch

89

dren. She tasted the creeper and it was full of power and happiness. She brought the creeper and made Buti, an intoxicating religious garland, and kept it safely. The Buti inspired everybody who saw it to tell the truth of her/his life. Paruhang returned suddenly and tried to counsel his angry wife who gave him the Buti to taste. This immediately made him tell her what he had done. He had spent all this time looking at heaven and the earth from the top of Chomolongma (Mt. Everest), meditating and visiting the entire universe. Paruhang promised not to leave her, which made Sumnima dance with joy. This joyous dance is believed to be the origin of the sakela dance. The story also explains the tradition of having young boys and girls participate in this dancing festival in order for them to socialize and possibly, find their life partners.

This festival which worships nature and celebrates the quest of finding love is known as Chasuwa by the Kirant Yakkhas, as Pholosyadar by the Sunuwar people, as Udhauli Sakewa by the Rais and as Chasok Tamnang by the Limbus. Although the names might be different for different cultures, the essence of the festival remains the same.

Other festival on the month of December

Yomari Punhi The post harvest festival of grains Celebrated in the Newar community, Yomari Punhi is a post harvest celebration which falls on full moon of the month December.

This festival is celebrated after harvesting the fields; and the newly brought rice and the goddess of grains, Annapurna is worshipped for the good harvest. ‘Yomari’, literally meaning ‘liked bread’ is special bread made of rice flour dough stuffed with a mixture of

sesame and molasses. This bread is firstly offered to a Dhukoo (store room) and eaten on this day.

According to the legends Suchandra and Krita, a married couple, first experimented with fresh yield of rice from their field at present day Panauti in ancient. The new delicacy was eventually distributed amongst the villagers. The bread was named Yomari, which literally means ‘liked bread’ in Newari language.

The myth further states that, on the same day the couple offered the new delicacy to the god of wealth, Kuber, who was passing by in disguise.

Delighted by this tasty bread, Kuber disclosed his real identity and blessed the couple with wealth.

He also declared that whoever will observe four days of devotion to god and prepare Yomari in the form of gods and goddesses on the full moon of December, will get rid of poverty.

The festival is celebrated on the second day when prayers are offered and Yomaris are stored, not eaten on that very day. On the fourth and the final day the Newar community people consume the sweet bread as a gift from gods. On this day, sacred masked dances are performed in the villages of Hari Siddhi and Thecho at the southern end of the Valley.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

90

PerfectTakeaways

‘Chiya Khayo?’ or literally, ‘Did you have your tea?’ is just another way of greeting in Nepal. For its evolving industry and the revving varieties, Tea is very much a Nepali tradition.

Words Leah Olson | Phots Suresh Maharjan

N

epalis love milk tea. They love it in the morning with a freshly fried sel roti, after a massive dal bhat lunch or sitting at a street-side tea stall. The ubiquitous milky sweet tea can be found just about everywhere, from bustling Kathmandu to the serene high Himalayas.

The recipe is simple: boil black tea in fresh milk, add copious amounts of sugar, strain into a small glass cup and enjoy.

Organic and traditional bags are popular choices for tea packaging

Although it is milk tea that is unceasingly popular among the Nepalese, there is also a thriving industry for sophisticated and carefully cultivated leaf teas in Nepal. Many of these leaf teas, also known as orthodox teas, are grown in eastern Nepal and are of superb quality. While Nepali milk tea could be considered more of a dessert, orthodox teas are all about the subtle flavors and smells of the leaves themselves and are best enjoyed without added milk or sugar. Returning home with an assortment of teas cultivated in the Himalayan hills is an excellent way to continue enjoying the flavors of Nepal repeatedly, from the comfort of your armchair at home.

Tea can be delineated into two categories: orthodox and CTC (crush, tear and curl). Crush, tear and curl describe the method of production, which involves heavy machinery that cuts leaves, buds and stems of the tea plant. The CTC harvested tea is then crushed into fine bits that fill tea bags or are sold in bulk. CTC, which is the variety used in Nepali milk tea, is generally regarded as low quality making it ideal to mix with milk and sugar.

CTC’s counterpart, orthodox tea, is of higher quality and variety because the leaves, buds and stems are picked by hand, so a tea plantation worker can carefully select which parts of the plant are ready for harvest.

Nepal’s orthodox tea growing region is in the far east of the country, the most famous being Ilam District, which borders India’s Darjeeling tea plantations. This is where tea cultivation in Nepal began in the 19th century. Plantations have since spread to other regions in the East, including Dhankuta, Jhapa, Taplejung, Therathum and Panchthar.

Although Nepal’s tea regions are less popular than India’s Darjeeling, Nepal’s tea industry sprouted only a few decades after its Indian counterpart.

A seedling tea plant was sent south to Ilam as a gift from China in 1863. Ilam’s Chief Administrator planted the seedling and from there was born Nepal’s first tea garden. Ten years later in 1873, the first tea factory was set up in Ilam. Nepal’s hills in the east are an especially first-rate region for growing tea because tea plants tend to thrive at high elevations.

Compared to Darjeeling, which has been exporting tea for many decades, Nepal’s tea industry is just starting out. The Himalayan tea-tourism

decemBER 2010

TIMES

industry is still in its infancy, but many intrepid travelers do make pilgrimages to the East to witness the lush, rolling hills carpeted with green tea bushes. For those who don’t want to endure the long, winding and many-hour bus trip to Ilam, high quality Nepali tea can easily be found at shops in Kathmandu.

leaves from older bushes. A number of other teas can be tasted and purchased here, including sencha and bancha (green teas), Ilam first and second flush, masala spice tea, Dhankuta organic tea and an assortment of interesting flavored teas (all mixed by Rai and Maharjan) including cardamom, rose, ginger, lemongrass and jasmine.

Two of the best places to find a huge range of Nepali teas are Sagarmatha Tea House, located in Lazimpat, and Himalayan Tea Corner, located in New Road. The establishments are run by industry veterans Ganga Rai and Navin Maharjan; both of whom are knowledgeable, passionate and excited about sharing and discussing what they know of tea. Visitors can sample any variety they like, and Rai and Maharjan are happy to help customers figure out what teas are suitable to their particular palate.

“Tea is one of the best souvenirs,” explains Rai, who himself is from the Dhankuta tea-growing region.

“Nepal has a lot of very special tea, so for people who love tea, it makes a very special gift.”

A stop at Sagarmatha Tea House can easily span several hours, as conversation, tea tasting and tea selection become engaging and fun activities in themselves. The establishment offers a spectacular array of teas that vary in quality. According to co-owner Ganga Rai, the flavor of tea depends on the quality of the leaves, time of plucking, the age of the plant, the grade of soil and weather conditions.

“Try this,” says Rai, as he pours a small glass of silver tips tea, one of the highest quality teas he offers me what he calls is “…a very relaxed tea, with a smooth and gentle flavor.” Silver tips are the delicate buds plucked just before they unfurl into leaves. Young tea buds and leaves, like silver tips, are most often of higher quality, therefore more expensive, than

Prices for Nepali tea vary depending on quality. For example, the most expensive tea sold at Sagarmatha Tea House is the silver tips variety, which goes for between 6,000 and 8,000 rupees per kilo.

By comparison, they also offer CTC black tea (variety used in milk tea) for 300 to 400 rupees per kilo.

The price of flavored teas also depends on what quality of tea was mixed with the flavoring, so a kilo could be anywhere from 500 to 1,000 rupees.

Customers may order small packets of 50 or 100 grams, or larger quantities in kilos, and have their orders sealed, labeled and vacuum packed for easy transport.

Whether travelers want to whip up some sweet milk tea made from the CTC variety, or wish to bask in the delicate aroma of the Dhankuta organic orthodox variety, tea of all kinds stands out as a great souvenir and gift to bring back from Nepal. After returning home, unpacking and brewing a cup, the flavors, smells and tastes of Nepal’s tea will not cease to remind you of the unique land you visited.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

PerfectTakeaways

91

The elite varieties: silver tips, special green tea, and oolong tea, respectively.

Young tea buds and leaves, like silver tips, are most often of higher quality, therefore more expensive, than leaves from older bushes.

Best Places in Kathmandu to Buy Nepali Leaf Tea Sagarmatha Tea House Lazimpat, Kathmandu (opp. Blue Bird Department Store) 977-01-4436169 Himalayan Tea Corner Dharmapath, Kathmandu 977-01-4229635 The Tea Shop Jawalakhel, Lalitpur 977-01-5531122

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

92

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

93

howto

How To

Make a Perfect Yomari Yomari is a Newari delicacy specially prepared for Yomari Punhi, a festival which falls in the month of December. This special rice flour dish is linked to a myth about how a kind, young couple who were experimenting with flour fed the dish to a deity in disguise. The deity had heard of their philanthropic ways and had come to test the couple by asking for food at their doorstep.

The nutritious ingredients used are perfect for keeping the winter chills at bay. It’s unique sweet taste makes it popular with all ages.

What you need a. Rice Flour b. Hot water c. Molasses d. Sesame seed e. Khuwa f. Dry fruits.

How

a. Prepare a mixture of molasses, sesame seed, khuwa (a local milk derivative) and small portions of dried fruits in one place. b. Mix the rice flour with hot water and prepare dough. Keep the dough covered with a warm muslin cloth and keep it aside for a few minutes. c. Oil both hands and slowly make a cone shape with a hollow inside. Make sure the layer is thin and it does not break. d. Fill the cone with the mixture you have prepared earlier and slowly close the mouth of it with its unique shape. e. Steam the Yomari for 15-20 minutes. Your Yomari is now ready to be enjoyed!

This typical Newari dish can be stored for 3-4 days without spoiling. Roasting it lightly over a fire enhances its unique taste. A yomari is best served warm with Nepali tea.

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

Review

o k

94

o

On the Road

Jack Kerouac (1957)

b

Jack Kerouac was working from hundreds of pages of notes and diaries and prior attempts at the same material, accumulated through the years.

More than 50 years since its publication, Jack Kerouac’s semi autobiographical novel On the Road is considered as an influential piece of modern American literature that defined the statement of a generation. Written in 1951, On the Road is a novel that eulogized the postwar free-spirited life where boundaries, confines and borders cease to exist. Its publication kick-started the Beat Generation – one of the most fascinating American movements where life is equated with jazz, hallucinatory drugs, free sex, smoke-filled cars, and above all - life on the road. The journeys are depicted as outlets for an entire generation’s desire and inner need to get out and break the confinements of society and find freedom, liberated from any ideology or higher belief; in constant search for some greater truth that life would teach them.

dent of New Jersey, a writer by profession, and Kerouac’s literary alter ego, On the Road is a mesmerizing travel diary of the narrator. Its apotheosis is his unforgettable friendship with Dean, one of the craziest and alive characters one can ever hope to come across. Together they embark in search for something greater and more meaningful than the life they were shown to live and their journey to and fro across America straddles cities as diverse as New York, San Francisco, Denver, Detroit, New Orleans, Chicago, Los Angeles, and Mexico City. Both Dean and Sal have contrasting lives but share a common passion - Sal is a serious, college educated intellectual with a steady income – an otherwise regular guy whom one can relate to whereas Dean is an impulsive, wildly unpredictable, rebellious, thoroughly alienated soul with an infectious method to his madness.

The novel recounts in a breathless and impressionistic style his travels across America, often in the company of his friend and prime influence, Neal Cassady- renamed Dean Moriarty in the book. The novel also focuses on his friends, such as the copioneers of the Beat movement poet Allen Ginsberg and William H. Burroughs in the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. The “spontaneous prose” writing style that Kerouac spawned keep us whipping through the story, trying to catch up with Kerouac and his friends as they whip across America.

On the road articulates the struggle for forming an identity against competing influences. It is a book that dared to imagine that there was an America beyond the backyard or hometown of its reader, which was never going to be featured on television or on film, in an era before the construction of interstate highways or bridges. What began as a vision of hunger for experience became a cipher for rebellion. It has also been used as a shield to deflect criticism of those who advocate discovery without risk or compassion for the truly Beat: those for whom drifting is not a lifestyle choice but a socio-economic necessity.

Narrated by Salvatore ‘Sal’ Paradise, an Italian-American resi-

i

e

Many of us have suffered an irresistible feeling of wanderlust but none of us have answered to it as strongly as upper-middleclass college graduate Christopher McCandless, who took off in the summer of 1990 without telling his family, giving away his money to charity and destroying all forms of identification in search of something meaningful to him.

m o v

Into The Wild (2007)

The film is infused with an expansive sense of possibility and communicates unaffected delight in open spaces, fresh air and bright sunshine.

decemBER 2010

‘Into the Wild’ is Sean Penn’s adaptation of the nonfiction bestseller by John Krakauer chronicling the adventures of McCandless who spent two years tramping around the American Southwest before heading to Alaska to have a last great adventure. In September 1992, nearly five months after disappearing into the Alaskan wilderness alone and with limited gear, he was found dead —his body emaciated and decomposed—in a sleeping bag in an abandoned bus in a clearing at the edge of Alaska’s Denali National Park.

The film is infused with an expansive sense of possibility and communicates unaffected delight in open spaces, fresh air and bright sunshine. Chris and his sister Carnie (Jenna Malone, who doubles as primary narrator) are portrayed as children of comfort raised by narcissistic and materialistic parents that have grown to resent everything they have and want to find something real and truthful.

The movie faithfully follows McCandless’s footsteps and illuminates the young man’s personality by showing us the world as he saw it. What he saw was the glory of the North American land-

TIMES

scape west of the Mississippi, the ancient woodlands of the Pacific Northwest, the canyons and deserts further south, the wheat fields of the northern prairie and Alaska - a place that MCandless seemed to regard with almost mystical reverence. McCandless was an enthusiastic reader with affinity of Tolstoy, Jack London and writer naturalists especially David Henry Thoreau whose uncompromising idealism — “rather than love, than money, than fame, give me truth” – he took to heart; and always slipping away whenever people started getting too close.

This kinetic saga attempts to evoke McCandless’s restless odyssey by leaping around in time and space. That means fast montages, lyrical, slow motion, fleeting encounters, narration by several different people, lines from the protagonist’s letters sprawled across the screen and magnificent scenery held just long enough to register. Pearl Jam’s Eddie Vedder supplies fitting paeans to leaving society behind. A major shortcoming of the film is a meandering narrative that could survive a shortening. The final Alaskan sequences where Chris makes a mess of butchering a moose and loses the meat to maggots have a shock value beyond the yucky imagery; it is the first suggestion that those who love nature must best know how to fear it.

McCandless’ complexity is never fully divulged in Penn’s narrative, which is both an advantage and a hindrance. On the plus, it keeps the film jumpy and kinetic. On the negative, we’ll probably never understand McCandless; but then again maybe we aren’t supposed to.

www.traveltimes-mag.com

Traveler’s info

Nepal Access to Nepal

By air: Nepal Airlines is the national flag carrier of Nepal with flights to/from Delhi, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Osaka. Other international airlines operating from/ to Kathmandu are Air Arabia (Sharjah), Air China (Lhasa, Chengdu), Biman Bangladesh (Dhaka), China Southern Airlines (Guanzhou), Cosmic Air (Delhi, Varanasi), Dragon Air (Hong Kong), Druk Air (Delhi, Paro), Etihad Airways (Abu Dhabi), GMG Airlines (Dhaka), Gulf Air (Bahrain, Muscat), Indian Airlines (Delhi, Kolkotta, Varanasi), Jet Airways (Delhi), Jet Lite (Delhi), Korean Air (Seoul), Pakistan International Airlines (Karachi), Qatar Airways (Doha), Silk Air (Singapore), Thai Airways (Bangkok).

By land: All visitors coming to Nepal by land must enter only through one of these entry points (1) Kakarbhitta (2) Birgunj (3) Belhiya, Bhairahawa (4) Nepalgunj (5) Dhangadi and (6) Mahendranagar in the Nepal-India border and (7) Kodari in the Nepal-China border. The overland tourists entering the country with their vehicles must possess an international carnet or complete customs formalities.

Route Siliguri-Kakarvitta-KTM Jogbani-Biratnagar-KTM Raxaul-Birgunj-KTM Sunauli-Bhairahawa-KTM Rupaidiya-Jamuna (Nepalgunj)-KTM Gauriphanta-Mohana (Dhangadi)-KTM Banbasa-Gaddachauki (Mahendranagar)-KTM Sunauli-Bhairahawa-PalpaPokhara Sunauli-Bhairahawa- Chitwan Sunauli-Bhairahawa-Lumbini

Approx.

Distance 620 kms 550 kms 280 kms 280 kms 520 kms 630 kms 715 kms 185 kms 145 kms 26 kms

Entry Procedures A. Tourist Visa Visa Facility Duration Fee Multiple entry 15 days US$ 25 or equivalent convertible currency Multiple entry 30 days US$ 40 or equivalent convertible currency Multiple entry 90 days US$ 100 or equivalent convertible currency B. Gratis (Free) Visa • Gratis visa for 30 days available only for nationals of SAARC countries.

• Indian nationals do not require visa to enter into Nepal.

95

land of the himalayas Area Location Capital Population People Language

147,181 sq. km Situated between China in the north and India in the south, east and west Kathmandu 25.8 million Nepal has more than 101 ethnic groups and 92 spoken languages.

Nepali is the national language; travel-trade people understand and speak English as well.

Religion Nepal is a secular state with a pre-dominance of Hindu and Buddhist population.

Currency Nepali Rupee (approximately US$ 1 equals Rs. 78.90 as of December 2008) Political System Federal Democratic Republic Climate Nepal has four major seasons (1) Winter: December-February, (2) Spring: MarchMay, (3) Summer: June-August, (4) Autumn: September-November. Monsoons are from June till mid September. Nepal can be visited the whole year round.

Foreign exchange Foreign currencies must be exchanged only through the banks or authorized foreign exchange dealers. The receipts from such transaction are to be obtained and retained. Visitors can exchange money at the foreign exchange counter at the airport upon arrival also. Indian currency Rs. 500/- and Rs. 1,000/- notes are not allowed to be brought into Nepal, will not be exchanged and will not be accepted for transaction of any kind.

Passenger service charge and tourist service fee Rs. 1,356/- per person for departure to SAARC (South Asian) countries and Rs. 1,695/- for departure to other international destinations

Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) Where & how to obtain TIMS Card?

Tourists of all nationalities including Indians, who are interested to visit general trekking

areas of Nepal, are required to receive TIMS Card through one of the following offices: l Kathmandu (NTB office, TAAN office and Government registered trekking companies) l Pokhara (NTB office, TAAN office and Government registered trekking companies) Opening hours counter at Government registered trekking companies will remain open 12 hours a day all the seven days a week round the year. l TIMS counter at TAAN / NTB offices will follow Government working hours/ days. For GIT TIMS Card will cost around 10 $ Per Person and for FIT 20 $ Per Person. l To obtain a TIMS Card you need a copy of your passport and two passport-size photographs. l TIMS

For more information, please contact: Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (Tel: 4443003, 4440920, Web site: www.timsnepal.com).

Entry Fee Protected Areas: (Per Person) Area

Foreign

SAARC

Nepalese

Manaslu Conservation Area Annapurna Conservation Area Kanchanjunga Conservation Area Lantang National Park Sagarmatha National Park Rara National Park Shey Phoksundo National Park Makalu Barun National Park Khaptad National Park Chitwan National Park Royal Bardia National Park Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve Parsa Wildlife reserve Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve Shivapuri National Park

NRs. 2000 NRs. 2000 NRs. 2000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 250

NRs. 200 Free NRs. 200 Free NRs. 200 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 100 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 50 Free NRs. 25 Free

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

96

Dirt Biking in Nepal Coming soon in forthcoming edition of Travel Times

don’t miss

decemBER 2010

TIMES

www.traveltimes-mag.com

97

TIMES december 2010

www.traveltimes-mag.com

98

decemBER 2010

TIMES