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Get a taste of man’s original dwelling grounds.

Take yourself back to the wild.

TSUM VALLEY ANGKOR WAT

gadhi mai mela

on Global Treasure

on Festival Watch

on Travelogue

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A slice of Nepal’s ‘wild’ Terai

bardia

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Editorial Dear Readers,

Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal CDO Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Managing Director / Editor Associate Editor Creative Head Director Sales & Marketing Copy Editor Inhouse Writer Photographer

Deepak Bhatta A. R. Tandukar Shambhu Tandukar Mahesh Tandukar Tilak Khatri Utsav Shakya Prita Malla Suresh Maharjan

Advisors A. Das gupta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com

Here it is finally - our Jungle Safari Special issue! And the timing could not be more right. As the weather in the capital city and in the hills in general remains as whimsical as ever, the Tarai region is blessed with plentiful sunshine this time of the year.

While the mornings and the evenings are foggy and cool, the weather is great during the day. And what better way to spend time in the Tarai than to be surrounded by nature at its best – in the wild. So for this issue’s cover feature, we take you into Sauraha’s lush forests. Elephant rides, a terrific safari package, canoe rides, elephant bathing, bird watching… the list goes on! A jungle safari has to be one of the best ways to spend a holiday ever.

Also on offer are stories from other amazing safari destination. A regular at Travel Times, Dr. Ravi Shankar writes about his safari in Bardia’s forests. First time contributor Fran Littmann takes us to the jungles of Thailand for a personal account of a Thai safari! And you can’t possibly avoid talk of the elusive Royal Bengal tiger when talking of safaris in Nepal. Read on about this amazing creature in our Nature and Wildlife section.

Also for this issue, we have for you, exclusive coverage of the Gadhi Mai Mela from Bara district in the Tarai region of the country. Although infamous for its animal sacrifices, it also makes for an intriguing travel story. Travel Times has chosen to focus on that aspect of the centuries-old festival.

But Kathmandu’s winters are not without their charms too. There’s many a thing to do and sights to see in the foggy streets of this fantastic city. But to appreciate the cold of the city, you’d need to be warm yourself and nothing puts the chills of the season at bay than the many clothing accessories made out Pashmina. Prasanna Pandey writes about this time tested popular fabric and why it is suitable for travelers.

So settle in comfortably and read on. And when you are done, make plans and hit the road!

Happy Travelling.

The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Contributors

Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine.

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.

We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com

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Ravi Shanker

Francesca Littmann

Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicines

Aspiring to live a life less ordinary, former UK singing teacher Fran is always on the lookout for the next adventure, from sharing coffee and conversation with locals in Jerusalem one day, to taking a leap of faith for charity off a bungee bridge near the Tibetan border the next.

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Contents Cover Story Jungle Safari

Get a taste of man’s original dwelling grounds. Take yourself back to the wild.

FOODRINK On a Korean Cuisine adventure

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First time contributor Looza Mahazu writes about finding bliss and devouring it in his Korean cuisine craving.

Travelogue A slice of Nepal’s ‘wild’ Terai, BARDIYA Our resident doctor writes about being stranded on a safari in the forests of Bardia National Park.

32 Global Treasure

Adventures in the Northern Thai Jungle

ANGKOR WAT So good it continually creates controversy about its date of construction, Angkor Wat is definitely a global treasure.

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One of our new contributors, Fran Littmann writes about being thrown up on by an elephant and more on her Thailand safari travelogue.

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Protecting the Predator: The Royal Bengal Tiger

Re-introducing the THARU

GadhI MaI MEla A Journey of hope.

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Tharus are married at birth!

Read on about the amazing culture and lifestyle of the Tharu community.

52 Nature and Wildlife

People & Culture

Festival Watch

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“God made the cat so that man might have the pleasure of caressing the tiger.”

Starttraveling....withTravelTimes 84 Perfect Takeaways

Pashmina - Perennially In Vogue What better gift for a loved one, intended to spread warmth than a pashmina throw that literally warms the body.

12 Travel News Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

26 Travel Gallery Featuring a chosen image sent in by travelers.

72 Recommended Restaurants A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.

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Send us your travel articles or ideas at articles@traveltimes-mag.com

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Nepal Tourism Year 2011 Secretariat outlines plan

Under the program, a peace torch will be carried from Lumbini to Kathmandu and the NTY 2011 secretariat head will pass the torch to a high-profile personality while parades from six different places in the valley will be held.

The Nepal Tourism Year (NTY) 2011 secretariat unveiled its programs during a briefing on the official launch of NTY 2011 that is scheduled for February 26 at the Tundikhel grounds.

Speaking during the program, Federation of Nepalese Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FNCCI) Vice-President Suraj Vaidya called for commitment from all

Elephant cooperative boosts safari tourism in Chitwan ment Company, involved in elephant safaris a year ago, while the mobilization of elephants for safaris has become easier and dependence on the Chitwan National Park (CNP) for elephants also has gone down.

“The cooperative has set an example,” said Purna Man Shrestha, Founder President of the Elephant Management Cooperative.

Entrepreneurs involved with elephant safari had a hard time a few years ago. But with the formation of the Elephant Management Cooperative, a merger of two companies, United Elephant Management Company and Unique Elephant Manage-

Now, elephant safaris have become one of the most attractive aspects of tourism in Sauraha. The cooperative is earning Rs. 400,000 annually excluding the cost of feeding 35 elephants which the cooperative owns. The cooperative charges Rs. 700 for foreigners, Rs. 500 for Indians and Rs. 350 per person for Nepalis for elephant safaris.

Flydubai starts its flights in Nepal

TAAN and MeDEP organize trekking guide training Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN), with the financial support of GoN/UNDP-Micro Enterprises Development Programme (MEDEP), organized a two-week trekking guide training at Chautara, Sindhupalchwok.

ta a n

Flydubai, a budget airline from Dubai, started its scheduled flights to Kathmandu from December 15th. The new airline will fly four times a week (Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays). The airline is offering limited seats for one-way trip at as low as just $175, which includes air fare, tax and other charges and hand luggage of up to 10 kg. Passengers, however, will need to pay for extra food and luggage.

Flydubai has a fleet of six Boeing 737-800 aircraft. The airline was established in March 2008 and launched its first flight in June, 2008. The airline has appointed Universal Tours and Travel as its sales agent.

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District Development Committee, Sindhupalchowk and SindhupalchowkPanchpokhari Tourism Management and Development Committee were the local partners of the training, while Nepal Academy of Tourism and Hotel Management (NATHM) provided technical support.

A total of 69 participants from Kavre, Ramechhap, Sindhupalchowk, Dolakha, Nuwakot and Rasuwa attended the training. Classes were conducted on History, Culture, People & Religion, Basic Tour-

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political parties to develop a peaceful environment.

During the briefing, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation Joint Secretary Laxman Bhattarai said, “There is full commitment from the government’s side to make NTY 2011 a grand success.” Bhattarai also urged to keep tourism year as top priority allocate and adequate budget for infrastructure development in the tourism industry.

New International Air Route in operation

Mahendranagar Surkhet Palpa Chitwan

Kathmandu

The government has assigned a new air route for flights to India, the Middle East and Europe through airspace over far western Nepal.

The new route known as Lima 626 links New Delhi, the Middle East and European destinations with Kathmandu through the flight path passing over Chitwan, Palpa, Surkhet and Mahendranagar.

“The Indian government approved the new air route in November as per the air service agreement (ASA) signed between the two countries in September,” said Laxman Bhattarai, spokesperson at the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation. “Now, aircraft bound for international destinations will remain in Nepal’s skies for 52 minutes by flying the new route,” he added.

Currently, Nepal Airlines, Qatar airlines, Jet Airlines and other 13 other international airlines are operating their flights via the new route. Around 90 to 100 international flights use the route every week. The new route will also help India to reduce congestion in its airspace. ism & Tourism Management, Trekking & Mountaineering Management; Mountain Sickness and HIV/AIDS, Health& Hygiene and First Aid, Food & Beverage and Hospitality Management, Eco-Tourism, Protected areas and Conservation, Geography, Map Reading and Flora & Fauna and Communicative English Language.

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Travelnews

Nepal focuses on sexual minorities for tourism

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Lonely Planet Names Nepal as one of 2010’s Top 10 Countries

the best places to go and the best things to do around the world for the year ahead.

Almost three years after the Supreme Court established gay rights in Nepal; the country is waiting to host “one of the most extravagant groups of tourists in the world” — the sexual minorities consisting of lesbians, gays, bi-sexuals and transgenders (LGBTs).

Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) officials hope that LGBT – that make up about 10 percent of the world population - arrivals will contribute to the governmentsaim of bringing in a million foreign tourists in the Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

LGBT activists say they prefer destinations like Nepal, which is rich in culture, art, architecture, cuisine and music. Nepal has both natural beauty and the goodwill of the LGBT community worldwide to emerge as one of the world’s top destinations for sexual minorities.

As part of the first promotional activity, Nepal is hosting a historic international conference in February, which is expected to bring together the world’s top tour operators, airlines and agencies selling adventure tourism to Kathmandu to explore opportunities for gay tourism in Nepal.

Other destinations to make Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Countries 2010 list are El Salvador, Germany, Greece, Malaysia, Morocco, New Zealand, Portugal, Suriname and the USA. Lonely Planet has chosen Nepal as one of the world’s Top 10 Countries for 2010 in LONELY PLANET’S BEST IN TRAVEL 2010, published this week.

BEST IN TRAVEL 2010 is Lonely Planet’s fifth eagerly-awaited annual collection of

Lila Baniya, manager, Sustainable Tourism Development, NTB, said that the move to diversify tourist destinations was aimed at enticing 40 percent of the visitors expected during NTY 2011 to visit rural destinations.

NATTA 46th AGM and Election Program were held on 8th January 2010 at Hotel Everest.

The primary purpose of NATTA is to protect the interests of those engaged in the travel trade business, to promote its orderly growth and developement and to safeguard the travel-

According to him, last year, the government of Nepal initiated a pilot programme from Khaptad to Ilam to discover new potential destination.

According to the NTB, villages like Sirubari, Ghalegaon, Nar Phu, Lumbini, Chepang, Pasgaon, Dhading, Sailung, Siklish, Siurung, Balanthali, Sivapuri, Bhujung, Gorkha, Ganga Jamuna and Nagarkot have already gained popularity for village tourism. It said that a number of travel and trade enterprises have tour packages for some of these destinations.

2010 to be observed as Year of Tiger Global Tiger Workshop, the first ever tiger workshop that concluded in Kathmandu, has decided to observe 2010 as the Year of Tiger.

China, one of the participants of the workshop, had objected to the idea saying 2010 is already the year of the tiger according to the Chinese calendar and that observing it worldwide would affect their cultural sensitivity.

The workshop also decided to establish an

Drawing on the knowledge and passion of Lonely Planet’s staff, authors and community, BEST IN TRAVEL 2010 showcases a year’s worth of inspiration to take travellers out of the ordinary and into some unforgettable experiences.

NATTA’s New Executive Board

NTB names new destinations The Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) has identified more than 10 new destinations suitable for rural tourism.

These scenic spots are expected to add an important dimension to the upcoming Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY 2011) which aims to bring one million tourists.

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anti-poaching secretariat in Nepal and bring all TAR countries in a common forum.

Some 250 scientists, tiger experts, policy makers, conservationists and government officials from 20 countries, including India, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Nepal, Thailand, China, participated in the workshop.

To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com

ing public from exploitation by unreliable agents. The newly elected board is led by Mr. Arjun Prasad Sharma, current President.

The number of the association’s members has been increased considerably since its establishment. Today, there are 365 active members and 14 Allied Members in NATTA. NATTA also offers provisional membership.

Internal tourists arrival up in Sauraha

With the beginning of the tourist season, internal tourists have started thronging Sauraha of Chitwan district. The open national park in Chitwan, the third tourist destination after Kathmandu and Pokhara, is the main attraction for them.

Jungle safari, pony-riding and sight-seeking are major attractions here. According to tourists, lush green swaths of land and community forests of Sauraha, Kasara and Bagmara add zing to their excursion. After the rise in tourists’ arrival during the festive seasons, entrepreneurs have demanded that the area should be developed as ‘Pay Holiday’ site. More than 90 percent of the tourists who come to Sauraha usually want to go either for sight-seeing on elephant back or pony-riding.

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43rd UFTAA WORLD CONGRESS at the Foot of the Himalayas The United Federation of Travel Agents’ Association (UFTAA) congress was organized for the first time in Nepal from November 20th to the 24th with the theme ‘Sustainability, Networking and Profitability’. The UFTAA General Assembly and Annual World Congress is a yearly congregation of the organization’s members which is attended by officials, guests and invited speakers. The prestigious event consisted of the board meeting, the Association Leader’s Meeting, the General Assembly, and the business sessions aimed at resolving pertinent issues to develop the travel industry. The 43rd UFTAA congress was able to

draw UFTAA representatives, 80 national and multinational travel agent associations spanning the globe. This year, Nepal Association of Tour and Travel Agents (NATTA) won the honor of hosting the 43rd UFTAA World Congress in Kathmandu (Nepal).

This gala event was held with the joint efforts of Nepal Tourism Board and Nepal Airlines Corporation.

The three days devoted to business issues covered a wide spectrum of topics of concern to the world’s travel agents. Several informative presentations were made by members to illustrate how the imaginative application of new technologies offer

opportunities for travel agents to position themselves more advantageously in a rapidly changing market place.

The determination of the federation’s members to take firmer control over their affairs, with a view to strengthening the position of travel agents was of particular significance. A three year plan is being developed by a group of members, for the board’s consideration and approval that will bring out more services to be made available to member associations. It will seek to stabilize the federation’s financial platform by making it progressively less dependent on third party support.

In a wide ranging debate about the direction in which the travel agent sector should be moving, it was the consensus that now is the time for UFTAA to assert a more independent stance for its members. At the conclusion of the business agenda, UFTAA President, William TAN of NATAS (Singapore) observed that this congress marked a significant and promising change in UFTAA’s direction. He looked forward to leading a more proactive federation but stressed that change can be achieved by the hard work of those who had undertaken the reforms that the congress needed.

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE of the Congress

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3rd NATTA Himalayan International Travel Mart 2009

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3rd NATTA Himalayan Int’l Travel Mart

23-25th November 2009, Kathmandu, Nepal

The organizing of an International Travel Mart of such great magnitude in Nepal was initiated by Nepal Association of Tour and Travel Agents (NATTA) in 2005 followed by a second time in 2007 in close conjunction with Nepal Tourism Board and Nepal Airlines Corporation.

The first NATTA Himalayan International

Travel Mart was organized by NATTA in 2005, under the theme ‘Streaming Efforts of Promoting Inter-Regional Tourism’.

The Chief Guest at the event was the then Crown Prince Paras Bir Bikram Shah.

There were more than 150 foreign participants including exhibitors from 18 countries and more than 400 local participants at the Mart. The first travel mart was a grand success and widely covered by national and international media.

Following the success of the first NATTA Himalayan International Travel Mart, NATTA organized the second Himalayan International Travel Mart in 2007 with the theme ‘Tourism: Prosperity for Posterity’.

The Chief Guest at the event was Honorable Minister for Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mr. Prithivi Raj Subba. There were more than 200 foreign participants from 20 different countries and more than 400 local participants. There were altogether 35 stalls from entire tourism fraternity.

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Now the third time around, NATTA Himalayan International Travel Mart carries with it global brand value. This tourism mart is a momentous international biennial event in Nepal for buyers as well as sellers from various part of the world. The 3rd NATTA Himalayan International Travel Mart 2009 held in capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu from 23-25 November 2009 provided a won-

derful opportunity for the tourism fraternity to assemble together under a common roof and interact to spread their business network further. There were a total of 24 stalls with 54 local and foreign exhibitors.

Beside the official gathering, the B2B session at Gokarna Forest Resort and social functions, city and shopping tours as well as the customary day long excursion set in the Shangri-La ambience of the city of Kathmandu was arranged for the participants. This time along with the local sellers there were representatives from Bhutan, Thailand and Malaysia with their out bound tours. There were 41 international buyers and tour operators and 24 members from the International Media.

ORGANIZER:

CO-ORGANIZER:

Under the theme Sustainability, Networking and Profitability, the co- organizers, composed of the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation have spared no efforts in making this International Travel Mart successful and enjoyable for all delegates.

NHITM Coordinator Mr. Shambhu Pathak’s Message

It is a matter of great please and happiness for me to state that the 3rd NATTA Himalayan Int’l Travel Mart (23 - 25 Nov 2009) was a huge success.

Needless to say, tourism has today become an important global economic activity and this mart has brought people together from all around the world. We have to thank Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation along with HAN, TAAN, NMA, TURGAN and other organization for the historic success of 3rd NATTA Himalayan Int’l Travel Mart.

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

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China Southern launches new Australia connection service

THE JAPANESE GEISHA TO REVIVE TOURISM

China Southern Airlines, the newest member of SkyTeam and the largest airline in the People’s Republic of China will be rolling out a brand new Australia connection service with special offers and an optimized connection route by which 34 domestic cities in China are now connected with Sydney and Melbourne via China Southern’s Guangzhou hub.

The 34 cities include Beijing, Shanghai, Fuzhou, Kunming, Qingdao, Zhengzhou, Zhanjiang, Sanya, Shenyang, Wenzhou, Hangzhou, Hefei, Yiwu, Wuhan, Ningbo, Taiyuan, Nanning, Nanjing, Nanchang, Xiamen, Jinan, Tianjin, Guiyang, Changchun, Harbin, Xi’an, Chengdu, Urumqi, Haikou and Chongqing.

China Southern Airlines connects more than 80 cities around the globe. Major business and vacation destinations served in China include Beijing, Chengdu, Guangzhou, Guilin, Hong Kong, Kunming, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Wuhan and as well as International service, including: Amsterdam, Bangkok, Fukuoka, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Islamabad, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Lagos, Los Angeles, Manila, Melbourne, Moscow, Osaka, Paris, Penang, Phnom Penh, Seoul, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo.

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Japanese culture has always attracted a lot of attention. It almost seems out of this world – the long lost samurai, the cuisine, completely different rules of social conduct and of course, the geisha. Many tourists are drawn by the mysterious appearance of these professional entertainers. As part of a new initiative, which aims to lure more foreign visitors, Kyoto has launched a weekly performance by Maiko, the apprentice geisha, at the Museum of Traditional Crafts.

The number of visitors has increased significantly, as everyone is keen to take a look at these beautiful entertainers and admire their elaborate kimonos and artistic performance. The maiko follow a very rigorous and long training before they deserve to becomes geisha. Their artistic talent and power of performance bewitches all spectators. The services of such skilled performers does not come cheap; usually ranging between $500 and $600. There seems to be slight confusion among many Western visitors as to what range of services the geisha provide. They are not courtesans, as many mistakenly believe.

Travelport seals full content agreement with Gulf Air

Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts amongst the top 50 hotels in the world

Travelport, one of the world’s leading global distribution system (GDS) providers, and Gulf Air, the national carrier of the Kingdom of Bahrain, have announced details of a new global full content agreement that will give all Galileo and Worldspanconnected travel agents worldwide access to the airline’s full range of published fares and inventory.

The new multi-year agreement marks the continuation of a long-standing relationship between the leading GDS provider and the pioneering airline, known for its traditional Arabian hospitality and awardwinning in-flight products and services.

Fourteen ShangriLa hotels and resorts were voted by readers of Travel & Leisure onto the 2010 T&L 500 and Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong and Pudong Shangri-La, Shanghai were placed amongst the top 50 hotels in the world. Readers of Conde Nast Traveler U.S. edition voted five Shangri-La luxury hotels onto the 2010 Gold List. Both lists were published in the January 2010 issues.

The T+L 500 includes the 500 best hotels in the world as determined by a survey of the magazine’s readers. Shangri-La was awarded the number one spot in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Malaysia, Taiwan and the Philippines.

Global passenger traffic up by 4% ACI’s monthly PaxFlash and Freight Flash reports show strong positive growth in both passenger numbers and freight tonnage in November. November is the first month since March 2008 during which all regions registered positive passenger traffic growth. China, India and Brazil continue to lead domestic passenger traffic recovery, but Europe and North America have also shown moderate domestic growth for the first time in 2009. International traffic growth was dominated by the Middle East and Asia-Pacific regions (Singapore +10%, Kuala Lumpur +21%, Bangkok +35%, JAN - FEB 2010

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Dubai +13%).

Freight traffic surged during the month, in part a result of the comparison with low results from 2008, but equally due to new growth and firming in several markets. Outstanding results from several key hubs (Anchorage +50%, Shanghai Pudong + 31%, Los Angeles +23%, Incheon +22%, Dubai +21%, Hong Kong +16%, Memphis +5%).

International growth outpaced domestic growth for the first time in over a year, and airports can expect the same trend in passenger traffic soon.

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RUSSIA READY TO DEVELOP INDUSTRIAL TOURISM The origin of industrial tourism can be traced to American companies. When in 1866 the Jack Daniel’s distillery was established, the company also opened its doors to tourists. Today, there are only few companies in the U.S. that do not organize tours around their premises.

In Russia, only a few dozen companies are aware of the advantages industrial tourists represent as reported by Russian portal Travel.ru. However the demand for such

DUBAI ANNOUNCED PLANS FOR TOURISM PROJECTS IN 2010

Although harshly hit by the recent financial problems Dubai’s authorities keep their optimism announcing Dubai’s tourism plans for 2010. One of the much awaited projects is Burj Dubai – the tallest man-made structure ever built (818 m; 2,684 ft). The tower includes several luxurious hotels and should be opened in January 2010.

Several new hotels will also open their gates during 2010 – e.g. the Palazzo Versace Resort. Golf lovers are also expected to head to the region in greater numbers. New courses are to be opened – Jumeirah Golf Estate and Al Ruwaya which was designed

by Tiger Woods. In 2010 the world’s richest horse race – the Dubai World Cup – will take place in a new hippodrome Meydan Racecourse.

In addition, in the second half of 2010 a Green Line of the Dubai driverless, fully automated metro network will be opened as well as additional 19 stations of the currently operating Red Line. When the Green Line is operationa,l the Metro will become the longest automated metro network in the world surpassing Vancouver Skytrain by 3 km. Every day the Dubai Metro trains carry about 57 thousand passengers.

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tours is immense. Most of the tour operators who have been offering various types of sightseeing around industrial complexes simply added these kinds of trips to their usual tours. However, thanks to their popularity several travel companies started specializing only in industrial tours. Most of the offered trips lead tourists through the region around Moscow but tours around large industrial complexes in Ural and Siberia are currently negotiated too.

Singapore’s first integrated resort opens from 20 Jan 2010 We have been single-minded about this – no distractions or excuses - and today, we are happy to say we have marked the first milestone towards delivering on that promise.’’

Singapore’s first IR, Resorts World Sentosa, announced that it will start its phased opening from 20 Jan 2010, beginning with its four hotels opening on the same red-letter day. Chairman of the Genting Group and Resorts World Sentosa Tan Sri Lim Kok Thay said: “When the Genting Group won the bid to build Resorts World Sentosa in December 2006, we promised Singapore that we would deliver a true IR that will make Singapore and Singaporeans proud.

Resorts World Sentosa began operations at two of its four hotels, celebrating with a lion dance and ribbon-cutting by the wives of Genting Group’s late founder and its current chairman, Puan Sri Lim Goh Tong and Puan Sri Cecilia Lim respectively. Employees and their families were the Resort’s main guests before the hotels’ public opening.

Resorts World Sentosa is working closely with the authorities to obtain approvals for Universal Studios Singapore, which will open next. The opening date for the casino will be announced when it gets notice of its casino licence.

PERSPECTIVES & RESPONSES FOR STIMULATING RECOVERY TO BE DISCUSSED AT FITUR 2010

Following last year’s successful seminar on responding to the new challenges in the global economy, on 21 January 2010, the UNWTO Affiliate Members Secretariat will bring together a diverse representation of the global tourism sector to examine and debate solutions for two of the principal recommendations in the Roadmap for Recovery.

The experts will be divided into two panels to debate two of the principal recommendations from the UNWTO’s ‘Roadmap for Recovery’. As detailed in the programme,

the first panel will give their perspectives on ‘How to understand the market and respond rapidly’ in the most effective way.

Following this, another panel will debate the best way forward for the industry in the near future by generating responses for stimulating recovery.

The Affiliate Members International Seminar has become a popular and highly productive event in Fitur’s programme which last year brought together over 200 industry representatives from over 30 countries.

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9 Rent-A-Car, Nepal’s first car rental company, starts its operation Nine Nepal Pvt. Ltd. has launched a car rental service named 9 Rent-a-Car. Established by nine entrepreneurs, 9 Renta-Car has targeted the tourism sector, Nepali corporate houses, diplomatic and donor agencies, INGOs and expats.

“We aim to provide specialised service in the city and outbound tours to those who seek personalised service,” said Santoo Shrestha, Managing Director of Nine Nepal.

Nepal has purchased 15 Suzuki Dzire cars to launch the business. The company aims to provide state-of-the-art car rental and leasing service to the tourism sector with personalized service. Apart from this, other sectors like corporate, financial institutes, diplomatic and donor agencies and INGOs can also avail of the service. The company is offering chaufferdriven as well as self-driven service with cars of all makes in Nepal from super luxury segments like Nissan Cefiro, BMW 7 Series; all model of Sedans, Hatch back, SUVs/MUVs, Smaller segment car and coaches. Customers can just call 2199999 or 4466655 to rent a vehicle of their choice in the Kathmandu Valley.

KFC and Pizza Hut in Town

The long wait is finally over as Devyani International, under RJ Corp has opened Pizza Hut & KFC restaurants to Kathmandu, the first multinational chain of restaurants in Nepal from 25th of November.

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Consumers in Nepal are ready for international eating out experience at its two outlets at Durbar Marg, Kathmandu. KFC is world famous for its Original Recipe fried chicken -- made with the same secret blend of 11 herbs and spices Colonel Harland Sanders perfected more than half a century ago.

KFC’s signature dishes are the finger-licking Zinger Burger and the all-time favourite Chicken Bucket. The inimitable taste of their products comes from a well-guarded secret recipe. Also gaining popularity is KFC Krushers, their exciting new line of beverages.

NMB Bank Limited is the financial partner with Devyani International for bringing Pizza Hut & KFC to Nepal.

Mahindra Two Wheelers unveils two new Power Scooters

Children Festival in Gokarna Mahindra Two Wheelers, the two wheeler arm of the US $ 6.3 billion Mahindra Group, unveiled two new Power Scooters - the Mahindra Rodeo and the Mahindra Duro in Nepal. With their contemporary styling and attractive features, these Power Scooters come packed with a host of features which make riding a sheer pleasure.

From 16th of January 2010 Saturday onwards Gokarna Forest Resort will be hosting Children’s festival, for the next 4 consecutive Saturdays. The festival will include all you can eat children’s buffet, magic shows and air castles with swimming in the indoor heated pool.

This is the first time Gokarna Forest Resort has arranged a children’s festival which will begin from noon to 3 p.m. in the evening.

Cost for adults will be Rs. 1500 and Children Rs. 750. There are other games and activities as well for which there will be a nominal charge.

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Mahindra Two Wheelers official dealer M/S Shrestha International Trading Concern proudly announced the launch of both scooters in Nepal.

The perfect choice for the young urban male, the Mahindra Rodeo is a high performance, feature-packed scooter with a distinctly macho demeanour.

A robust 125 cc engine offers 8.0 bhp of power, making it one of the most powerful vehicles in its class. Excellent pick up and smooth acceleration ensures agility even in dense traffic and low maintenance costs. The

Mahindra Rodeo offers the ultimate in comfort, convenience and safety. A specially designed petrol tank inlet in front allows the driver to refuel without having to alight from the scooter. This peppy two wheeler also boasts of the largest illuminated storage space in its category.

With its stylish good looks and powerful 125 cc engine, the Mahindra Duro not only caters to the transportation needs of the entire family but is also the best value for money product in its category as it provides the customer with the highest value per unit of engine cc.

This two wheeler boasts of the most powerful battery in the segment, ensuring longer working of key electricals. Wide brakes ensure effective braking making the Duro a safe scooter. The Duro also has the largest fuel tank in the scooter segment, the widest wheelbase for better stability and a generous storage space to carry your world with you.

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Sanjay Pandit Running after Dreams At a young age when most of us have just emerged bewildered from the awkwardness and uncertainties of adolescence, and have no clue what to do with life, or our career, here is a fresh face intent on and already making an indelible mark in the field of Nepali athletics.

Text by Prita Malla

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Sanjay Pandit, a student pursuing a BBA degree at Kantipur Valley College, is a long distance marathon runner who came into fame after completing the 127 km marathon from Lalitpur to Maitripul in Tatopani in a record 11 hours and 20 minutes. Today, having already proved himself and his abilities in the Nepali athletics arena, he aims even higher for recognition at the international level. Travel Times caught up with Sanjay who was gracious enough to receive us in spite of his tight schedule of rigorous training for an upcoming marathon. Excerpts from the mind of one of the youngest and most inspiring stars of Nepal today: What inspired you to become a marathon runner?

My father was always strict about our daily exercise schedule. I used to practice with him since I was a child. However there was one instance that specifically inspired me to be a marathon runner. I was returning from college when I saw the grand welcome athlete Rajendra Bhandari received from the Nepalese Government and the Nepalese people after returning home victorious with a South Asian Games Gold medal.

The marathon is being organized for the main objective of making people aware about the climate change and global warming.

I wanted that glory, that sense of accomplishment of making one’s country proud.

From then on, I had only one goal in my mind; I wanted to win the hearts of people.

I’d always been a fairly athletic person but I knew even then that I had a long way to go before I could prove myself as a long distance marathon runner. I trained myself rigorously for hours every day, making multiple rounds in Dasarath Rangashala and Tundikhel. I embarked on a dedicated and strict lifestyle with a very controlled diet while I trained for marathons. During winters, I used to get frostbite and my fingers and toes would swell from running so hard in the early mornings. My whole body would turn sore and it was all excruciatingly painful. Nowadays, the training sessions are more intricate and strenuous. Today I run around the Ring Road on a daily basis to maintain my stamina. It is a tiring pro-

fession no doubt, but the satisfaction and sense of victory I get when I finally cross the red ribbon after a long and tiring marathon is well worth it.

Tell us about your achievements.

One of my proudest moments would have to be the morning of January 23 2009 (Martyr’s Day) when I completed the 127 km marathon from Kantipur Valley College to Maitripul in Tatopani in 11 hours and 20 minutes setting a new record. I also completed the run from Swargadwari Pyuthan to Khula Mancha in Kathmandu on February 11 2009, a distance of around 339 km in 47 hours, 20 minutes and 6 seconds. I have also participated in various marathons organized in the valley to mark various occasions.

What are your future plans?

One of the projects I am training for right now is the marathon on January 15 2010, starting from the base of Mt. Gaurishankar in Dolkha to Dasarath Rangashala, Kathmandu. This run is nearly 185 km long and I intend to finish it in around 23 hours. The marathon is being organized for the main objective of making people aware about the climate change and global warming. The run intends to spread the hopeful message of peace everywhere, to rekindle Nepali pride, to guide today’s belligerent and ignorant youth to truth.

After the completion of this marathon, I plan to run the whole of Nepal starting from Mechi in the East to Mahakali in the west, a total distance of 1050 km. I believe that this would be the perfect opportunity for me to visit all parts of our beautiful country. Besides, the media coverage during the event will be sure to give exposure to the beautiful landscapes and people of remote parts of the country and promote Nepal’s tourism. I personally look forward to the trip.

Unfortunately, even though I sought support from various organizations and offices for my marathon, I only got a few flimsy promises. I even went to the Nepal Olympic Committee, National Sports Council and the Sports Ministry but sadly it was only limited to talk. Mr. Jeetendra Man Amatya, Co-ordinator of Kantipur Valley College is the one who has always supported and encouraged me. It is very tough to balance studies and training for such strenuous events, but with the support of my college, I have come this far and hope to carry on.

So what do you have in mind for the future? Will you continue with the sport or concentrate more on your studies?

I am very passionate about this sport but I have to be realistic as well. Making a living out of athletics is very difficult in Nepal so I intend to complete my BBA and then pursue higher education to become a CA. This doesn’t mean that I will give up on sports. I will keep running. I aim to take athletics and academics together.

Any words for our readers?

I believe that if you set your mind to it, you can do anything. One thing I have learnt from rigorous marathons is that to be good at something, you have to train yourself to become better. I was just an ordinary student with a small dream, but with diligence and determination, I was able to go places, and even get to be interviewed for magazines! (laughs) I would like to say that you should never give up hope and always chase – run - after your dreams.

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By Abishesh Joshi

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TIMES To publish your photographs in this section, submit to info@traveltimes-mag.com with photo and camera details.

D80, Focal length: 16mm / Ex Time 1/80

TRAVELGALLERY

Shot at Dhukhur Pokhari, Manang, during Annapurna Circuit Trek

IMAGE OF THE MONTH

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TRAVELOGUE

a slice of Nepal’s ‘wild’ terai

Bardia

Our resident doctor writes about being stranded on a safari in the forests of Bardia National Park.

Text and photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar

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We were in trouble! Our grey raft was leaking badly. Water was already lapping at our ankles inside the boat. Our guides rowed the raft to the river bank and decided to transfer us all into a blue raft. With the addition of ten new passengers however, the raft sank deeper into the murky grey waters of the Karnali River.

The Karnali drains a huge area in mid western and far western Nepal and eventually joins the holy Ganges. We were rafting on the mighty Karnali in the Bardia National Park near Nepalgunj in mid western Nepal. Conditioned by adventure magazines, my visions of raft-

ing were of white water madness, churning rapids and excited adventurers hanging on for life to the raft. The placid Karnali in the flat plains of the terai quickly disposed any such notions.

Reaching Bardia We were a group of twenty people from Pokhara. We had hired a mini bus for the journey. The initial drive was along the twisting, vertigo inducing Siddhartha Rajmarga (highway) to Butwal.

The February morning was chilly but clear and we had spectacular views of the Annapurnas. From Butwal we took the Mahendra Rajmarga, the major east-west

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highway which bisects the terai.

We stopped for a tasty lunch of dal, bhaat, tarkari and kukhura ko maasu (lentils, rice, vegetables and chicken curry) at a small eatery in Lamahi, Dang. We were soon at Ambassa, the turn off to the park from the Mahendra Highway. It took us another thirty minutes bumpy ride along a dirt road to get to the park headquarters at Thakurdwara. We were staying at the Forest Hideaway, a budget lodge near Thakurdwara.

Forest Hideaway lodge That evening, the dinner comprised of rice and chapattis with various accompaniments. The lodge is said to have the best food in the park and I fully concur.

The lodge had arranged a camp fire and a cultural programme after dinner. Soon a blazing fire chased away the chill of the night.

The Tharu dancers (original inhabitants of the terai region) gradually picked up the tempo.

The lyrics were simple, the rhythm was catchy and soon all of us had joined in. The campfire took on a magical quality. It was after nine when we stopped dancing. The lodge owner informed

us that half of our group was staying in a lodge some distance away near the bank of a river. I had an eerie feeling about walking in the dark night with our guide but we soon reached our accommodations - a charming collection of bamboo and mud huts. Inside the walls had traditional Tharu designs. The huts did not have electricity and the candles and lanterns that lit the rooms added a quaint touch. Earlier that day, we had visited the park headquarters and had seen an elephant and her baby. The baby’s playful antics had amused us all greatly.

The plan was to have an early breakfast the next day and then spend the entire day rafting on the Karnali.

Rafting down the Karnali The lodge’s jeeps took us to the starting point of our rafting trip and would pick us up later in the

evening. The drivers had a tough time starting the engines because of the cold. They succeeded soon and the engines snarled into life like angry tigers, shattering the calm of the surroundings. We then drove through the bridge over the Karnali, reputed to be the longest single span bridge in the world. The straight lines and modern design of the massive bridge seemed incongruous in these timeless surroundings.

Upon reaching there, we helped inflate our rafts and we floated away on the Karnali. The river was deep and wide and the current took us downstream gently.

We were distributed in two rafts with two guides in each. Soon we espied a ‘mugger’ crocodile sunning itself on the warm white sands. Disturbed during its sun bath, the mugger slithered away into the water. Our guide described the two species of crocodiles found in the river, the mugTIMES JAN - FEB 2010

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ger and the gharial. The mugger is a ‘mugger’ in the true sense of the term. It attacks by stealth. Its powerful jaws can close with a bone crunching snap. The gharial is slender snouted and feeds mainly on fish. Bird life was plentiful too here with herons, pelicans, Brahminy ducks and swallows. We also sighted a huge troop of langurs frolicking in the lush canopy. Our guide showed us fleeting glimpses of swamp deer.

The sun was becoming stronger and it was time for lunch.

We were having a packed picnic lunch on the shore among the trees and birds. Our guides showed us the pugmarks of a tiger on the wet soil near the river. The tiger had come to the river two or three days ago to drink.

After a short rest, it was a lazy cruise along the sluggish river.

Soon it was late evening and we were all in the blue raft as the grey one had developed a leak.

We were slowly cruising through Tharu villages when our guides alerted us to the presence of a Gangetic dolphin ahead! This fresh water dolphin is nearly blind and depends on sound for navigation and locating food. A long history of hunting has made JAN - FEB 2010

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it wary of man.

Our jeeps were waiting for us at the drop off point. The setting sun painted the sky and the river with rich shades of crimson. Wild pigs and Nilgais scampering into the darkness. Suddenly one of the jeeps stopped. Despite the best efforts of the driver the engine died on us. We decided to send the ladies to the lodge in the functioning jeep and waited in the jungle for the jeep to return.

In the dark, the jungle’s sounds took on a weird quality. We were on an elephant travel corridor! A grey stillness blanketed all and the minutes dragged along slowly. After over eighty minutes the headlights of the returning jeep finally cut through the darkness.

We gave a loud cheer of deliverance.

Jungle walk and village tour

The next morning we went on a jungle walk. Bird life was plentiful and our guides showed us bear foot (paw) prints and scat. Suddenly our guides told us to freeze and showed a rhino foraging in the far distance. In the afternoon we visited a Tharu village. The Tharus build their houses of locally available material, mud, thatch, bamboo and reeds. The entire extended family stays together. The long house is strange in that there are no internal walls.

The living and sleeping areas are partitioned off using huge earthern jars. The Tharu bread we were treated to was delicious.

The art work of the women added a simple gaiety to the houses.

Soon it was time to say good bye.

After an early breakfast we started back. The simal tree in bloom added a lively touch to the landscape.

One horned rhinos were relocated to Bardia from Chitwan and have multiplied in the sylvan surroundings. Many conservationists regard the park as a success story.

A visit to this jungle paradise to partake in the heart warming success story of conservation efforts in Nepal is indeed worth the trip.

Seeing the plains of the terai as they were at the beginning of the twentieth century, lush green and teeming with wildlife with man as but an occasional, timid intruder is a revelation.

Bardia National Park spans habitats from thick riverine forests and sal stands to Phanta (isolated stretches of Savannah) and dry upland slopes. The park is located northwest of mid-western Nepal’s main town, Nepalgunj (about thirty minutes drive) and consists of forests and hills along the Karnali, Babai and Geruwa rivers. Lesser number of tourists visit the park.

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Text by Utsav Shakya Photo by Suresh Maharjan (Travel Times) & Sudhir Bhandari

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Welcome to the Jungle The winter season of Nepal from late October to February is the best window of time to explore and experience the southern forests of the country. The region is rich in various flora and fauna, but a jungle safari in these deep forests will help you reconnect with nature at its leftalone best.

A little boy and his father cycle down a small path between rice fields. The bumps on the path rattle their city bones and they stop clumsily to ask for directions to the bazaar from women working in the field. They point in the direction the father and son came from. So the two turn their cycles and start peddling back in the direction they had come from, the southern sun beating down harshly on their backs. The plan had been to take a leisurely ride. After a hot hour cycling under the sun, they had decided to go back to the resort but had lost their way in the deep forested area. Finally, after trying to remember trees they thought they had passed, they finally reached their resort and collapsed in the comfort of cool, tall rooms.

I am that little boy and it was my father who had planned on a summer trip - the off season - to Sauraha in the South of the country popular for the forested parks where a variety of birds and animals can be sighted on any given day.

Needless to say, it wasn’t the smartest of plans.

Summers in Nepal’s Tarai, which the southern belt is known as are unbearably warm, fit for

nothing but spending entire days in a pool and sipping on chilled cocktails. But the resort we stayed at did not have a pool and I was too small to appreciate a cocktail. So a large part of my memories involve images of taking multiple showers under a shower head that was so far up on the wall that it felt like taking a bath under a waterfall. But this is not - quite happily - all that I remember. The best part of the trip was the jungle safari into lush green forests, inhabited by the roaring, trumpeting wild, a trip that is capable of arousing the child within any one. From atop a magnificent Asian elephant ridden by a mahutey – traditional elephant rider, the forests looked so much more inviting in comparison to being lost on a cycle and feeling like there were feline eyes staring at us from behind every bush.

The amazing jungle safari is reason enough to plan a trip to the south itself. But it’s not the only reason. There’are a lot of things to indulge in once you’re there to make it a wholesome safari trip.

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The primeval man hunted for food every day, lived in caves and got by with resources found in the jungle to take care of whatever life brought along. Necessity bred invention and mankind moved out of the jungle. But these ancient habits of hunting and being surrounded by nature proved to be a hard one to quit. This necessity bred another invention or perhaps an excuse to get back into the wild – hunting for game. Former royalty in Nepal, in order to impress visiting dignitaries, allowed game hunting to heart’s content in Nepal’s expansive forests.

Records mention how the abundant numbers of tigers, rhinos and other wildlife in these forests became easy targets. Feeding this most primal of man’s habits gave rise to the first safaris here in Nepal. But with time jungle safaris became popular for something more worthwhile than hunting – as a recreational trip into the jungle, observing the lifestyle man was once a part of. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why going back into the jungle even for an hour or two on a safari is such

an amazing experience.

Amongst the many places you can go to for a jungle safari such as Bardiya National Park, Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve, Sauraha’s jungle which borders and at times overlaps the world renowned Chitwan National Park’s immense forests is arguably the most popular choice for most wildlife enthusiasts. For one, there is no dearth of resorts and lodges to cater to tourists. Sauraha makes for a terrific microcosm of Chitwan National Park with a rich variety of wildlife and all major safari attractions.

Nepal’s first and most famous national park is situated in the lowlands of the inner Terai. The park itself covers a pristine 932 square kilometers with a unique ecosystem which is of

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This ecologically diverse area is the last remaining home in Nepal for more than 300 of the endangered Asian one-horned rhinoceros and harbors one of the largest populations of the elusive and rare Royal Bengal Tiger. There are more than 43 species of mammals in the park of which rhinos and deer are the most visible ones.

The area is especially renowned for the endangered one-horned rhinoceros, the tiger and the gharial crocodile along with many other more common species such as gaur, wild elephant,

Sauraha makes for a terrific microcosm of Chitwan National Park with a rich variety of wildlife and all major safari attractions.

The park is accessible by car or bus on the Kathmandu -Mugling-Narayanghat Highway or via the Mahendra Rajmarg Highway from Hetauda. It is about a six hour drive from Kathmandu to Narayanghat. Local buses are available to Tandi Bazar, which is about an hour’s drive from Narayanghat. A 6km. walk or bullock-cart ride brings visitors to Sauraha, the park entrance. Air-services from Kathmandu to Meghauli and Bharatpur air field are also available. Local buses are available from Narayanghat to Park HQ at Kasara.

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significant value to the world. It contains the Churiya hills, ox-bow lakes and flood plains of the Rapti, Reu and Narayani Rivers. Approximately 70% of the park vegetation is sal forest. The remaining vegetation types include grassland (20%), riverine forests (7%), and sal with chirpine (3%), the latter common at the top of the Churiya range. The riverine forests consist mainly of khair, sissoo and simal. The grassland forms a diverse and complex community with over fifty species. The Saccharun species, also known as elephant grass can grow up to 8 meters in height. Shorter grass kinds such as Imperata, also common within the park are used by locals to make thatched roofs. Such houses line some of the outskirts of the jungle.

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The Royal Bengal Tiger The Royal Bengal tiger (Panthera tigris tigris) is a subspecies of the tiger primarily found in Bangladesh. According to recent surveys, their number in Nepal’s forests today is 150. The Royal Bengal Tiger is also found in parts of Bhutan, Myanmar, India and southern Tibet. It is the most numerous of the tiger sub-species. According to WWF, there are about 2,000 Royal Bengal tigers in the wild today, including 1,411 in India, 450 in Bangladesh, 100 in Bhutan, as well as some in Myanmar and China. The Bengal tiger is historically regarded as the second largest subspecies after the Siberian tiger.

The total length for the male is of 270-310 cm meanwhile that of the female is of 240–265 cm.

The tail measures 85–110 cm and the height at the shoulders is 90–110 cm. Its average weight is 221.2 kg (487.7 lb) for the male and 139.7 kg (308 lb) for the female. The rich coat ranges from yellow to light orange in color while the stripes might be dark brown or black. Its belly is white, and its tail is white with black rings. It is said that the Bengal tiger’s roar can be heard up to three kilometers (almost two miles) away.

four-horned antelope, striped hyena, pangolin, Gangetic dolphin, monitor lizard and python. Other animals found in the park include the sambar, chital, hog deer, barking deer, sloth bear, palm civet, langur and rhesus monkey. To sight them all is however quite impossible with most animals preferring to be left alone and remaining out of sight, camouflaged wonderfully by the many colors of the jungle. But keep your eyes open and your ears on alert and you might just sight something rare.

There are over 450 species of birds in the park, many of whom migrate from as far away as Siberia and come into Nepal from its eastern corridor such as Illam. Using Nepal as a warm, friendly passage, the birds then fly to Africa. Among the endangered birds are the Bengal florican, giant hornbill, lesser florican, black stork and white stork. Common birds seen

in the park include the peafowl, red jungle fowl, and different species of egrets, herons, kingfishers, flycatchers and woodpeckers. The best time for bird watching is March and December. Besides this, more than 45 species of amphibians and reptiles are found in the park, some of which are the marsh crocodile, cobra, green pit viper and various species of frogs and tortoises.

A safari trip can be organized for you by your lodge throughout the day, providing the light is still good. Morning, noon and afternoon safaris all have their advantages. Because safaris are usually planned in the winter, in the morning and at noon, a lot of animals such as deer and rhinos like to come out of their cooler comfort zones to bask in the warm Tarai sun.

These timings are excellent for easy sightings and for photography.

On a recent safari, as a group of excited Taiwanese tourists tried in vain to get the mahutey to turn the elephant around to get some better photos, I reveled in the simple life of the jungle. This was how it was back in the day, I thought to myself. Black topped roads, houses, cars – all of these came so much later in time – borne out of necessity. Here amidst tall trees and basking in the golden afternoon sun, the elephants, wild boars, rhinos and spotted deer, all of them seemed at ease, without the necessities that mankind deemed crucial for its survival. There is food to be discovered and then devoured, shelter to seek in caves and in the shade of trees and as for clothing, well that’s debatable!

One Horned Rhino There are 2500 one horned rhinos left in the wild. The overall population has slowly increased from as few as 200 at the beginning of the 20th century. The captive population in zoos is now stable and viable as an insurance policy in case of extinction of its wild population. Greater One-Horned rhino have the most folded skin of the five rhino species. Instead of using their horn to fight, the males use their long, sharp lower teeth.

The Moghul emperors used the rhino in staged fights against elephant with the rhinoceros often winning the battle. Happily this is no longer practiced. They are very good swimmers although many drown each year in the annual floods and they spend up to 60% of the day wallowing. They have a folding upper lip that can grasp leaves and twigs but can fold it away to graze on the tall grass of the terrain.

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Veteran safari guide Yum Nath Giri has strolled, run and really sprinted through these forests for thirty years now. He knows the jungle like it’s his own backyard and in some ways it is. He was born in Sauraha and has lived here all his life. In the early eighties he attended a fair number of safari workshops here and then proceeded to study more on his own. Today Giri is one of the most sought after guides for his experience and expertise regarding Sauraha’s wildlife.

“Most foreigners are very interested in issues such as wildlife conservation and the lifestyle of the animals while some just want

to take pictures,” says Giri as he looks back at the forests behind him. The tourists who are interested spend a lot of time with Giri, finding in him a

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quiet conservationist besides just an educated guide. He leads these kinds of tourists deep into the jungle, showing them how he

animals have eaten and later gotten various diseases from. The number of resorts and the amount of noise they make in the tourist season is another of his concerns. “Animals hearing is so sharp. The loud music drives them deeper into the forests, making it harder for tourists to sight them every time,” he adds. Giri links the troubles of the forests easily with issues of global warming. Bird migration patterns have changed with the increase of temperature. A lot of the small natural watering holes that drew the animals out of the forest and into the sight of safari groups have dried up mak-

If we controlled the noise level, the animals would come out of the forest to bask in the sun just across the river. What a sight that would be to watch. tracks animals by expertly looking for footprints and analysing fresh animal scat. Just by poking into pellet-like deer scat, he is able to tell amazed tourists about what kind of a deer it is, what it ate and how healthy it is. “Spotted deer,” he says simply when he comes across some fresh deer scat on the jungle floor. Going macro on this particular specimen, he dishes out information as if he were interviewing the deer itself.

While on these natural walks, Giri likes to point out what they are doing right and what needs more work. While the group of Taiwanese he was guiding take a break, he voices a few environmental concerns.

There have been instances where tourists have left behind plastics in the forest, which

ing the animals look elsewhere, mostly in the opposite direction, to find water.

“Small things would make a difference,” says Giri adding, “We can easily make watering holes on the side of the forest that is more tourist-friendly. If we controlled the noise level, the animals would come out of the forest to bask in the sun just across the river. What a sight that would be to watch.”

Nature’s been very kind to Nepal for sure.

Some careful planning and implementation would do much good.

On an afternoon safari, the sounds of the jungle are muted, the silence broken only by the tread of animals. In the evenings however, the jungle comes alive with a constant buzz of insects.

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Elephant rides are perhaps the most sought after safari activity not only in Sauraha but at any other safari destination around the world. From atop these gentle giants, you can choose how deep you travel into the forest and for how long depending on your interests.

Standard rides last for around forty minutes which is a perfect amount of time – long enough to sight some wildlife and enjoy the splendor of the forest but not too long so that you don’t get motion sickness from the elephant’s slow, rocking motion.

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Sitting comfortably on your ride, there are ample opportunities for wildlife sightings.

On our safari, within the first ten minutes we had seen rhinos, spotted deer and then wild boars up close.

While the deer darted away and the boars trotted back into the jungle upon seeing us, the rhinos could not be bothered to move. They chewed on grass and appeared quite at ease as the clicking sounds of the camera and the oohs and aahs of the tourists filled the silence.

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Stepping over branches and crossing small rivers on the elephant’s back, an elephant ride is a great way to look at the forest. For one, the elevation helps you see far and beyond what you normally would from the ground. The bigger picture in this case quite literally, is a better picture. There is also a fun elephant bathing session at the end of most rides.

Grownups turn into children as they help bathe the elephants on the banks of the Rapti River that snakes its way in and around the forest.

Tourists get to scrub at the elephant’s back as it showers them with water it’s sucked through its trunk. Much to the joy and sometimes dismay of the tourists, the elephant is made to suddenly lie on its back, making the people on top plunge into the cool waters along with it. Overall, a good time!

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Lined up before the Safari

Guests getting on their rides carefully

Into the wild!

Crossing a river takes a new meaning

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Rhino sighting

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Lush fields of the Tarai region

Sambar deer

Restaurants by the Buri Rapti River

Spotted deer

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Elephant bathing is one of the major activities on the safari.

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Another star attraction in Sauraha is the canoe ride down the Buri Rapti River. On narrow wooden canoes, the ride takes you through the heart of the jungle. Before you carefully sit down on small wooden seats on the canoe, you’re asked to not make any unnecessary movements on the ride to avoid falling in and fair game for the many crocodiles that live in these waters.

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On the banks of this river on most winter days, some of these fine reptiles are seen taking in some sun. Leave them to themselves and you shall be left alone too. When the crocodile we saw did not bother putting up a show for us, a Taiwanese woman on another canoe, complained to no one in particular that the crocodile was “a lazy bum”.

“You don’t want to move about right now. This is the deepest part of the river. There are lots of crocodiles here,” said our guide casually as we glided through some calm waters. We literally froze until the guide told us we were on shallower, safer waters.

A crocodile slips back into the river

While seemingly gliding on these calm waters, you will see a lot of birds resting on solitary branches.

Most visible were different species of kingfishers, their brilliant colors in stark contrast to the dull green of the river.

A crane basks in the sun

A colorful kingfisher observes keenly

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With fourteen female elephants giving company to one lucky male elephant, it is quite a breeding center. The adorable small elephants are attention grabbers here. November of 2009 was a special month for the center here. The center celebrated the first birthday of the second known case of elephant twins here amidst a lot of fanfare. There is quite an interesting story behind the birth of these twins. A wild elephant had crushed a child to death in a nearby village. After this, the same elephant somehow got into the fenced area of the breeding center and

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mated with a female elephant there. The mother whose child it had killed was pregnant. That year, the woman and the female elephant both gave birth to twins.

In addition to getting up close with these huge mammals, visitors can also feed the elephants at the center. The mahuteys that run this place have some stories of their own too. There are instances where new mahuteys have been trampled to death by elephants. Before switching mahuteys, the new mahutey usually accompanies the old one for at least eight months in order for the elephant to get familiar with its new mahutey. The elephants get very attached to their drivers and failure to familiarize oneself with the elephant has resulted in a few unfortunate accidents.

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A safari is a fantastic way to soak in nature’s splendor - to get in touch with the harmony that somehow escaped us somewhere along the line. There is no going back to such a lifestyle, but the sights, sounds and smells of the jungle are worth a safari by itself - to reminisce, to wonder and to capture in your minds the essence of the wild.

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TRAVELOGUE

s e r u t n e v Ad n r e h t r o in the N gle n u J Thai

By Fran cesca Littman n

Although I'm not adverse to the beauties of the great outdoors, I've certainly never been one to jump at an opportunity for physical exertion. So when I signed up for a 2-day, 1-night trek in the humid northern Thai jungle, I surprised myself the most. The trek started with a three-hour climb up a steep hillside. I found myself struggling to keep up and had little time to take in the surrounding scenery, so intent was I on measuring every footstep to prevent myself from rolling back downhill. Our guide Tee however, seemed to have no such problem, as he rocketed uphill at lightening-speed in his flimsy flip-flops.

Finally, my body aching from the use of long-forgotten muscles, the hilltop Karen village came into sight with its raised bamboo huts and chickens scratching about in the dirt. The villagers were going about their daily chores, undisturbed by our arrival. Once we reached the hut where we would be staying, we put down our bags and had a drink, before claiming our beds - consisting of thin foam mattresses on an uneven bamboo floor, covered by holey mosquito nets. My fellow trekkers and I soon wandered about the village. The views from both sides were breathtaking; on one side we could see the city of Chiang Mai in the distance and on the other was an abundance of hills and vibrant green vegetation.

Afterwards, chatting between ourselves, we waited for our supper. Women from the village came to sell us their produce of necklaces and bracelets, as their children watched us curiously. At first from a distance and then closer, they ran up and down the platform of our hut and climbed nearby trees.

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As the evening began to draw in, accompanied by the incessant buzz of mosquitoes, a monsoon storm broke out in spectacular fashion. During an interlude between showers, we gathered under the shelter outside the hut, around a campfire, chatting and singing as Tee played his guitar.

An overwhelming sense of euphoria crept into me at the thought of this unspoken bond I had formed with these people I had met just hours before.

When the rain came back again, we made a hasty retreat from the leaking cracks in the roof to the relative shelter of our sleeping quarters. As the night drew on and conversation dried up, one-by-one we finally retreated to our beds in order to revitalize both body and mind for the adventures that lay ahead of us the following day.

Early next morning I awoke to a strange itch in my ear. As my eyes adjusted to the dim light of the room, I realised the itching was the result of numerous jumbo-sized ants crawling all over my pillow.

This was enough to get me out of bed despite the sight of my fellow adventurers fast asleep. After a particularly tasty breakfast of Thai-style scrambled eggs, toast, exotic fruits and tea and coffee, we gathered up our belongings and bid farewell to the village as we set off on our journey. Though the walk uphill had been physically challenging, going down was harder. I was already feeling the effects of yesterday's muscle-challenge and was not at my best due to minimal sleep. On top of this, a dense mist reduced our visibilities and the ground underfoot was slippery from the previous night's rain. As we slowly made our descent, Tee hacked at bamboo canes to support us. Though I appreciated the use of it, I couldn’t help but wonder at the impact this has on the environment, particularly as our trek was one of many happening daily in this small part of the world.

However, our downhill jaunt was more eventful as we encountered local wildlife. At one point Tee brought the group to a halt, telling us he was going to introduce us to ‘Mr Jonny’. He began poking a stick into a hole on the raised edge of the track. I immediately envisioned him awakening some sort of venomous snake from it’s slumber. Moments later as he slowly edged the stick back out, a very big, very black and very hairy eight-legged creature appeared. It’s probably just as well the other female members of the group were too far behind to see it, because a later discussion regarding Mr Jonny revealed that they were scared of spiders and therefore most likely would have screamed the jungle down. Mr Jonny had clearly felt the same way about humans, and no sooner had he been removed that he made a prompt withdrawal back into the hole.

Having spent the morning trekking through the humid jungle with sweat seeping from every pore, the promise of a dip in a waterfall proved to be irresistible. Its deafening roar could be heard long before it came into view and by the time we reached it nothing was going to hold me back from its inexorable flow. Considering the heat and humidity of the jungle, it was surprisingly

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very cold and it wasn’t long before I was feeling substantially cooler. Body refreshed again, there was just enough time to dry off before we continued on our way.

After another forty minutes of walking, we finally came to the part of the trip that had been the reason for me to traipse through this jungle in the first place - elephant riding. Ever since I was a small child, I have been absolutely fascinated by these magnificent creatures. The endangered Asian elephant, unlike its larger, more dangerous relative the African elephant, is a docile creature, and thus has been used for centuries as a means of transporting goods and people in Thailand. These days, as in Nepal, the Thai tourist industry takes full advantage of the fact that tourists are keen and willing to spend their cash on encounters with these gentle giants.

We had a brief interlude for lunch at the elephant camp before making our way to the platform from which we would mount the solid wooden seats on the elephants’ backs. Despite being at approximately the same level as the seat, this was still a tricky manoeuvre, as all of us clambered ‘onboard’. Once my riding partner and I were (relatively) comfortably seated, the elephant began its slow, methodical plod that would constitute the forty-minute round-trip alongside the river. After having felt the need to watch where I was going whilst walking through the jungle, it was both a relief and a pleasure to now be observing the beautiful scenery on all sides from this elevated viewpoint.

Judging by the height and size of his tusks, it seemed that the elephant I was riding was the bull. When the guide suggested I remove myself from the safety of my seat to sit across its neck, I was a little hesitant. After a few precarious moments as I balanced between the elephant and the ropes that attached the seat however, I was glad I had met the challenge. To sit in direct physical contact with one of the world’s largest land mammals, and to be able to touch its pricklyhaired skin whilst feeling the cool breeze created by the flapping of its enormous ears, was a deeply moving experience for me; one that I shall remember for a lifetime.

Along our trek we were able to purchase bananas to feed the elephants. It brought me great pleasure to observe his eating habits, as he raised his trunk, sniffed around and then vacuumed the banana in with his large nostrils as soon as it came into striking distance. Needless to say the bananas didn’t last long, and our elephant became somewhat disgruntled when he returned his trunk to find no further snack. He decided to voice his disgust at the lack of food provisions by exhaling a trunk-full of muddy elephant snot, of which I was in the direct firing line. After a brief moment of shock at his audacity, I found myself laughing heartily as I attempted to wipe away the slimy brown goo that covered me from head to toe.

A particularly memorable moment for me was riding

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along the riverside. The ground was steep and I was sitting with my legs clenching the elephant’s massive neck. I had a good view of the uneven ground below, and could feel the mechanics of his body as he made his slow descent. I was on a sensory overload, the sound of flowing water and the sounds of the jungle ringing in my ears. The view was spectacular; the hills of the valley lay spread before me in a lush green expanse of tropical trees and plants as the sunlight glinted off the murky river.

All too soon we were back at the elephant camp, but not for long. We would be white water rafting next. I had never done this before, and after a minute and a half of safety briefing instructions communicated in broken English, I found myself along three rafting companions and the instructor, careering down the river at great speed, adrenalin pumping through my body at a rate of knots. I barely had time to think as the rubber dingy was pulled along by the current, narrowly escaping the outcrop of rocks in our path as we paddled for life.

Hearts still pounding from the thrill of the rapids, we arrived at the spot in the river where we traded in our dingy and lifejackets for the bamboo raft that would take us to our pick-up point downstream. When I had heard about bamboo rafting before coming on the trek, I had found the concept of gently floating down the river on bound-bamboo to be a somewhat romantic notion. Although it was a fairly relaxing experience and allowed a final opportunity to take in the beautiful scenery, compared to the adrenalin-rush of the previous ten minutes, it didn’t quite live up to my expectations. This could also be owed to the fact that I had not foreseen the discomfort of sitting on uneven bamboo canes whilst being partially submerged in muddy water!

Twenty minutes later, our bamboo raft reached its final destination, where we abandoned our floating carriage for the more solid foothold of terra firma. A few drinks and several pictures later, we bid farewell to Tee and found ourselves packed tightly into a tuk-tuk. As we headed back towards the city, the general mood became subdued as fatigue began to seep in, combined with the realisation that our adventure was drawing to a close. I looked out from the back of the vehicle as the leafy greenery of one jungle got gradually replaced by the grey concrete of another.

One by one, our numbers dwindled as we were dropped off at our various guesthouses. Finally my turn came. As I descended the tuk-tuk, I uttered good wishes to my remaining fellow trekkers, and then turned to walk, exhausted but happy, towards the familiar steps of my hotel.

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globaltreasure

ANGKOR WAT

Angkor Wat is on everyone’s must-see list, but venturing beyond the fray to the area’s more remote temples can yield the experience of a lifetime.

Text by Darshan Shakya Photo Courtesy Dennis G. Jarvis

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A structure that could not have been built in the era that it really was built during. A design intended to reflect the home of the Gods.

A blueprint that mirrors the stars of 10,500 BC. Decoration that encloses the Mahabharat and the Ramayana. A temple complex dedicated to the heavens.

That is Angkor Wat. Located 5.5 kilometers north of the modern town of Siem Reap (the capital of Siem Reap Province, Cambodia) this temple complex is the highlight of a trip to Cambodia, and one of the major highlights of a trip to South East Asia. For those interested in archaeology, the place is a spectacular piece of history; the crown jewel of the Khmer Civilization. For us lay tourists, this architectural wonder is one of the most visually rewarding ones we could ever come across.

history The blueprinting of this wonder-of-the-world nominee began in the 12th century, during the reign of Suryavarman II. Dedicated to Vishnu, it was built as the king’s state temple and capital city. 27 years later, the Angkor was sacked by the Chams, the traditional enemies of the Khmer. Thereafter the empire was restored by a new king, Jayavarman VII, who established a new capital and state temple (Angkor Thom and the Bayon respectively) a few kilometers to the north. In the late 13th century, the Hindu King Jayavarman VIII was deposed by his son in law, Srindravarman. Srindravarman had spent the previous 10 years in Sri Lanka becoming ordained as a Buddhist monk. Hence, the new king decided to convert the official religion of the empire from Hinduism to Buddhism and consequently, Angkor Wat was converted from Hindu to Theravada Buddhist use.

During the half-millennia of Khmer occupation, the city of Angkor became a pilgrimage destination of importance throughout Southeast Asia. Sacked by the Thais in 1431 and abandoned in 1432, Angkor was forgotten for a few centuries. Wandering Buddhist monks, passing through the dense jungles,

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occasionally came upon the amazing ruins. Recognizing the sacred nature of the temples but ignorant of their origins, they invented fables about the mysterious sanctuaries, saying they had been built by the gods in an ancient time. Centuries passed, these fables became legends, and pilgrims from the distant reaches of Asia sought out the mystic city of the gods. The temple complex itself was rumored to be nothing but a legend, until western explorers finally uncovered it.

Laos

Thailand Angkor Wat

Cambodia Phnom Penh

Vietnam

The temple was popularized in the w est only in the mid-19th century in Henri Mouhot’s travel notes. Mouhot, like other early Western visitors, was unable to believe that the Khmers could have built the temple, and mistakenly dated it to around the same era as Rome. It was that good.

Angkor Wat underwent considerable restoration in the 20th century, with the removal of accumulated earth and vegetation. Its abandonment had taken a toll on the structure, but because of the moat that surrounds it, nature’s encroachment was curbed to a certain degree.

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1. The aerial view of Angkor Wat 2. Carvings of Apsara (a female spirit of the clouds and waters in Buddhist mythology) on the walls

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Angkor Wat Today

Government figures suggest that, respectively, 561,000 and 677,000 foreign visitors arrived in Siem Reap province, approximately 50% of all foreign tourists in Cambodia for both years.

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Since the 1990s, Angkor Wat has seen continued conservation efforts and a massive increase in tourism. The temple is part of the Angkor World Heritage Site, established in 1992. It has become a major tourist destination. In 2004 and 2005, government figures suggest that, respectively, 561,000 and 677,000 foreign visitors arrived in Siem Reap province, approximately 50% of all foreign tourists in Cambodia for both years. The temple has become a symbol for Cambodia, and is a source of great national pride. In fact, in January 2003, when a false rumor had a Thai soap opera actress claiming that Angkor Wat belonged to Thailand, riots broke out in Cambodia’s capital. The temple has also been on the Cambodian flag ever since the flag’s existence.

What does Angkor Wat Offer?

Angkor Wat itself is a very vast temple; you can easily get lost here. Still, the Wat’s features will draw you in and have you marveling at the sight and the very thought of its construction. The moat that guards the temple will catch your eye first. The entrance too is a feast for the eyes; one begins to wonder about the symmetry of the temple - it’s one of the reasons why the Wat is so appealing. The famous reflecting pools are sure to drop jaws and have photographers drooling over the perfect mirror images.

This effect is perfect in the rainy season; the pools might not be full during the dry ones. The gallery

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of the thousand Buddhas is exactly as it sounds like.

It used to have hundreds of Buddha images, but today we can see only remnants, for some were stolen and some destroyed. The still functional Buddhist shrines also attract tourists, but mostly draw devotees. Angkor Wat’s Central Towers are up next; situated at the second level of the temple, these make up the most magnificent sight of the temple. We highly recommend anyone intending to visit the Wat to spend most of their time here, strolling in the area and taking in the view. Here’s also where we issue a warning: anyone who dares to go further 3

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It is no wonder that this temple was nominated to be one of the seven wonders of the world; its more of a wonder that it didn’t make it to the final seven.

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up should go at their own risk. The stairs to the third level of the temple are steep for a purpose.

They represent the extreme difficulty of reaching the heavens. Still, the steep stairs to the next level also are a major attraction. If you can’t make it, though, don’t feel bad. There have been casualties before on these steps, so the Apsara authority has placed some metal stairs with railings on the other side of the courtyard. Once you’re up in the third and final level, there are numerous spots to enjoy the bird’s eye view of the ground structures.

There’s one final thing about the Wat that grabs attention: The Angkor Wat temple Bas Reliefs. These are inscriptions carved on all four sides of the outer walls of the temple. In amazing detail and surprisingly not deteriorated by time, these drawings and

writings describe the Mahabharat and the Ramayana. The eight depicted scenes comprise of the battle of Kurukshetra, the army of Suryavarman II, Heaven and Hell, Churning of the ocean of milk, Vishnu conquering the Asuras, Krishna and Bana (the demon king), the battle of the Gods and Demons and finally, the Battle of Lanka.

If you’re going on a South East Asia trip, Angkor Wat is one architectural wonder you don’t want to miss out on. It is no wonder that this temple was nominated to be one of the Seven Wonders of the World; it’s quite a wonder that it didn’t make it to the final seven. A temple complex like no other, Angkor Wat is definitely one of the world’s Global Treasures.

1. The steep stairs at Angkor Wat 2. An enormous Sculpture 3. 190 meter wide moat at Angkor Wat 4. North wall of the monument, one part of the longest bias relief carving in the world 5. Carvings depicting the battle of Lanka 6. Carvings above the doors going to the uppermost terrace of the temple.

7. Mighty wall of the main area of Angkor Wat

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heal hy on a SAFARI S ta y in g

In the days of yore, people convicted of crimes against the state were banished to the lowland terai region of Nepal. They quickly succumbed to the deadly ‘awal’ fever at its height during the summer months. Over time, the Tharus - original inhabitants of the terai have developed varying degrees of immunity to malaria.

With the control of malaria in the 1960s the terai region was opened up for development. Jungles were cleared and the plains soon became the bread basket of Nepal.

To protect the wildlife here, sanctuaries were set up; the Chitwan National park being the most popular.

Most tourists visit the park and the one at Bardia during the cool winter months from October to February. In this article we look at how to stay healthy while on a ‘safari’ in the national parks of the terai.

By Dr. Ravi Shankar

Short Profile of Dr. Ravi Shankar

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Diarrheal diseases Most areas of the ‘third world’ have problems of hygiene and sanitation. This is also true of the terai. In Sauraha, the tourist center of Chitwan National Park many lodges have been built in the last two decades creating problems of waste disposal. The best way to stay healthy is to drink only boiled water. Chemically treating the water could also be an option but remember the organic content of the water may be high requiring higher doses of chemicals. Iodine and chlorine solutions are most commonly used to chemically purify water. Most lodges get their water supply from rivers and unfortunately by the time they reach the terai, rivers are polluted after flowing through densely populated towns and villages. Especially during the summer, food spoils quickly making food poisoning a possibility. Flies are common in summer and can spread many diseases. Do not eat from road side stalls and check the fly protection measures in your lodge kitchen and dining area. Salads and other raw foods can be a health hazard if not prepared properly. Eat them only if you are sure about your lodge’s food preparation methods and standards of hygiene. I remained healthy during my visits to Bardia and Chitwan and was pleased to note that lodges paid particular attention to food preparation.

ter returning from the area. This drug has to be chewed thoroughly and is effective against many types of worms. Boiling water and cooking food thoroughly are other precautions.

Malaria Malaria made a comeback in Nepal and other countries in the 1970s mainly because of resistance of mosquitoes (which act as a carrier for the malarial parasite) to the insecticide DDT and of the parasites to commonly used drugs. In 2003 there were a total of 9394 reported malaria cases and around 57000 probable or clinically diagnosed malaria cases in Nepal. With increasing temperatures as a result of global warming, the disease is likely to spread to new areas and populations. Malaria is caused by a tiny parasite called plasmodium with a complex life cycle. It invades the liver and red blood cells (RBCs) in humans. Fever results when the parasites are released from the ruptured RBCs. There are four types of malaria with Falciparum malaria being the

Worm infestations Parasitic worm infestations, especially round worm can be problematic. Open air defecation has reduced steadily with construction of latrines so hook worms may no longer be a major problem. You can have a single tablet of Albendazole 400 mg af-

most dangerous.

Chemoprophylaxis or taking a drug for prevention of the disease can be considered by travelers going to the terai. Chloroquine, proguanil and mefloquine are commonly used. Chloroquine and mefloquine (taken once weekly) are started one week before going to an area and continued for at least a month after leaving. Proguanil (taken daily) is started 2-3 days before travel and continued for a week after returning. The choice of drug depends on the resistance pattern of the parasites in the area. Travelers can contact physicians in their host country for prophylaxis information. If you succumb to malaria, chloroquine is the mainstay of treatment if the parasite is sensitive. Chloroquine resistance is unfortunately becoming common. Mefloquine and a number of newly developed drugs are also available.

Keep in mind the possibility of malaria if you develop a fever during your safari.

Paracetamol (acetaminophen) every 6 to 8 hours can help to bring down the fever.

Tepid sponging (wiping the body using a cloth/sponge soaked in lukewarm water) is helpful too. Evaporation of water absorbs heat from the body bringing down the fever. Visit a doctor if your fever does not come down in a day. Many lodges have doctors on call.

Heat illnesses Heat illness can be a problem in the terai especially during the summer when midday temperatures can be around 40˚ C. Increased muscular activity, other illness and old age are risk factors. Heat cramps

Insect bites Insect bites can prove to be a threat too with insects such as, mosquitoes and bed bugs. Mosquito nets are commonly provided in lodges or are fixed to doors and windows. Unplastered homes of the eastern terai harbor sand flies which can transmit a disease called Kala azar (black disease). This disease is unlikely to affect tourists unless they stay for a long time in such dwellings. An antihistamine taken orally will reduce the itching, pain and swelling of the insect bite. A pain killer (analgesic) can also be taken.

Insect bites can also cause a severe reaction called an anaphylactic reaction.

This may occur with bee or wasp stings. Histamine (a chemical) is liberated which causes dilation of blood vessels and makes them leaky. Swelling, redness, itching, difficulty in breathing, low blood pressure are the features. The narrowest part of the airway in the larynx (sound box) can be blocked, literally choking the person to death. Injections of adrenaline, antihistamines and corticosteroids can be life saving.

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are painful muscle contractions caused by profuse sweating and depletion of body sodium. Drinking plain water without salts can worsen the condition. Oral rehydration salts (ORS) can both prevent and treat the condition. Heat exhaustion can occur with prolonged exertion in hot and humid weather, profuse sweating and inadequate fluid and salt replacement. Tepid sponging to bring down the temperature and fluid replacement using ORS are recommended.

Heat strokes occur when the core body temperature rises above 40˚ C. Headache, nausea and vomiting, muscle tremor, confusion and loss of consciousness can occur.

This is a medical emergency which should be treated in a hospital. Carry sachets of ORS (Jeevan Jal, Jeevan Bal, Nava Jeevan are common Nepalese brands) and dissolve each sachet in a liter of boiled and cooled water.

In the jungle White cotton clothes reflect sunlight helping to reduce body temperature.

Loose clothes improve ventilation.

Full sleeve clothes and gum boots are useful for jungle walks. Synthetic brightly colored clothing is better avoided. Pants or kurta suruwals may be apt clothing for ladies as it enables you to sit more easily on the elephant back during safaris. A loose floppy hat with an elastic strap is necessary. Keep a flask/bottle with ORS handy.

The bright sunlight and dust can irritate the eyes. Use sun glasses with

ultraviolet protection. Apply a sun screen with a high sun protection factor (SPF) of around 40 on all exposed areas. Some travelers also apply insect repellent cream on exposed areas.

When walking on foot through the jungle follow the instructions of your guide. Lodges inform walkers of the requirements and precautions for jungle walks. Be sure your guide is adequately trained. Avoid loud noises and abrupt movements in the jungle.

Wait for the elephant to kneel before dismounting. Ensure you land on both feet while dismounting.

The rivers of the terai Many lodges include rafting trips in their program. Certain rivers are deep with large water volume making drowning a possibility. A person who is rescued from the river should be placed semi prone with the head end lower. The lower back should be periodically compressed to expel out the ingested water. Cardiopulmonary resuscitation may be needed. Poisonous snakes and crocodiles could be other dangers. About 24 districts in the lowlands of Nepal are at risk of snakebite. Various snakes with venom toxic to the blood and the nervous system are found in Nepal. Application of a firm bandage to occlude lymphatic drainage is recommended but the use of tourniquets is no longer in favor. Identifying the snake, calming the victim, immobilizing the affected part and timely transport to a hospital to receive antivenom is recommended.

I remember the time when we espied a small green snake in our room while staying at Chitwan. The snake was probably

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more scared of us and made itself scarce.

A long and tiring search proved unsuccessful. The power failed at the critical instant and my companion, Chandra was insistent that we change rooms as the snake could not be traced.

Following these ‘common sense’ precautions can increase your chances of staying healthy in the jungle and enjoying the rich wildlife of the Nepalese terai –once the playground of Kings and nobles, today enjoyed by tourists from all over the world.

travel essentials White floppy hat (with elastic band), sunscreen with high SPF, Insect repellent cream, rulers (for use as rough splints), elastocrepe bandage, ORS, sunglasses with ultraviolet protection, iodine or chlorine to purify water (if needed), paracetamol tablets, albendazole tablets, ibuprofen or another painkiller, antihistamine tablets, medicines for malaria prophylaxis (if required). Check with your lodge about the first aid box they carry while in the jungle and whether your guides are trained in first aid.

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Tharu

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Re-Introducing the

Tharus are married at birth!

Read on about the amazing culture and lifestyle of the Tharu community.

Text by Utsav Shakya

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Not to take anything away from the history and culture of the Tharu community - something that dates back several centuries - but sometimes the quirkiest things affix themselves in a writer’s mind. When I sat down to write about the way of the Tharus, their culture, their lifestyle and their beliefs, it is their peculiar marriage practice that crept into my mind first. Traditionally, Tharu marriages are arranged during the pregnancy of two women. If the two women give birth to babies of opposite sexes, the marriage of these infants is fixed informally. In a lot of cases, these children grow up as friends and hence ease into a marriage more times than not. This is much appreciated by the older folks in the community. But in a lot of cases, increasingly more so now, youth eligible for marriage have ventured away from this age old tradition, choosing to find their partners

themselves. Problems arise when the partners they choose are unavailable because they too are bound into marriages right from birth!

I first heard about such a practice years ago, while growing up in a hostel, through a Tharu friend. At the age of thirteen, he would brag about already having a wife in his village. It is another matter that the guy is still single, but his stories caught my imagination, along with that of all the other guys that shared our dormitory. Dark skinned, with jet black hair and telling his stories in a heavy accent, he painted quite an exotic picture of the Tharu community, never leading on to the fact that his community suffered from severe issues of marginalization and were amongst the backward communities of the country.

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The History of the Tharus A series of invasions by people of other races, from North India across the border as well as from hills and mountains of Nepal, eroded the influence of the indigenous Tharus. In 1854 A.D., Jung Bahadur, the first Rana Prime Minister of Nepal, developed the Muluki Ain, a codification of Nepal’s indigenous legal system which divided society into a system of castes. The Tharus were placed next to the bottom of the social hierarchy, the lowest in a list of people who were considered touch-able.

Their land was taken away, disrupting their community and displacing many people. In the 1950s, the World Health Organization initiated a program that aided the Nepalese government in eradicating malaria in the Terai region, the southern plains of the country. This resulted in immigration of a lot of people from other areas to claim the fertile land, making many Tharus virtual slaves of the new landowners. This practice eventually gave way to developing the Kamaiya system of bonding generations of Tharu families to harsh, manual labor in fields and

as servants.

Before such a codification happened and even after, Tharu people mainly occupied areas in Surkhet, Chitwan, Dang, Deukhuri, Sindhuli and Udyapur in the inner Terai valleys of Nepal and the Terai plains on the India-Nepal border.

Of the total Nepalese population, Tharus make up more than 6.6%. A smaller number of Tharus also live in India, mostly in Champaran district of Bihar and in Nainital district of Uttarakhand. Today, Tharus are recognized as an official nationality of the Nepal plains by the government and the Kamaiya system has been outlawed as of July of 2000.

The Tharu people make up the largest and oldest ethnic group of the Terai region, living in villages near dense malaria-infested jungles in regions that were isolated over the millennia, allowing them to develop a unique culture. Living near such swampy areas for ages, medical evidence supports beliefs that Tharus have developed an innate resistance to malaria.

Lifestyle Most Tharus live in longhouses made out of mud, which may hold up to 15 people.

Their principal crops are barley, wheat, maize, and rice, and many also raise poultry and farm animals such as chickens, ducks, pigs, and goats. Quite a number of them are known to be engaged in fishing for a living in huge rivers that run near their settlements. As a result of their isolated lifestyle in malarial swamps until the recent use of DDT, they developed a unique style of

decorating their walls, rice containers and other objects in their environment with Tharu women transforming outer walls and verandahs into colorful paintings using bare hands. These paintings are said to be dedicated to Laxmi, the Hindu goddess of prosperity and fertility.

The Tharu people do not have a well defined Tharu language that unifies their communities in different parts of Nepal

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1. Tharu headgear 2. Body art signifies coming of age in the Tharu community 3. Traditional utensils and tools of the Tharu people 4. Tharu women celebrating a festival in traditional attire and accessories

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Tharu men and women love to adorn their bodies with art. Most Tharus have their hands, legs and backs covered with intricate body art. and India. Instead, they speak variants of Urdu and Awadhi in Western Nepal and in adjacent parts of India, variants of the Bhojpuri language in and near central Nepal, and a variant of the Maithili language in and near Eastern Nepal. More standard versions of these dialects are widely spoken by non-Tharu neighbors in the same areas, eroding away linguistic barriers between Tharus and their neighbors. However, a different kind of linguistic barrier between these dialects stands in the way of communication amongst Tharus from different regions. Hindi has been largely proposed as a lingua franca for communication across the Terai. Tharu people are also notorious in their casual use of foul language amongst family members, specially in the villagers.

The aforementioned genetic resistance to malaria suggests that Tharus were already living in the Terai before Indo-Europeans arrived, which gives rise to the question of which language they had been speaking at the time. Nevertheless if any linguistic features survive from that era, they have not been well documented.

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Tharu men and women love to adorn their bodies with art. Using the soot of a particular type of wild grass and mixing in a little bit of their own mother’s milk into it, they dip needles into this solution and tattoo themselves with it. Most Tharus have their hands, legs and backs covered with intricate body art. Women are deemed eligible for marriage only after this ceremony. The traditional Tharu marriage happens twice, once when they are infants and then when they are teenagers. Such a practice became popular because for most parents getting their daughters married is a huge responsibility and the earlier it happened, the easier it was for the parents.

Tharus are adherents of Hinduism, but also follow Islamic, Animist and Buddhist beliefs. Small numbers have converted to Buddhism in recent years. Such syncretism has led these people to practice folk Hinduism. With more religious freedom, many have also converted to Christianity and there are a variety of congregations active in the various districts that have large Tharu populations. Traditionally, Tharus worship various gods in the form of animals such as dogs, crows and cows, a practice similar to those followed by Hindus. Every village has their own deity, commonly known as Bhuinyar. Tharus in East Nepal call their deity Gor-raja. They celebrate Fagu Purnima and Dashain as their main festivals.

Most of their households have a statue of a traditional god and sacrificing animals

to appease gods is a popular practice.

Milk and silk cloth are also used in most rituals. They also use the blood of one of the male members in the family for such rituals. Such rituals are conducted through ceremonies, and superficial cuts are made on the forehead, arms, throat, legs and chest. Such practices however are less pronounced today.

Tharu deities are believed to have the ability to heal diseases and sickness. According to traditional legends, gods are given a bhakal, a promise of an offering of some form, on the condition that the sickness is cured, or in events of misfortune, plagues and nightmares. Upon the fulfillment of such conditions, animal sacrifices are held or elaborate ceremonies are organized to thank the deity. A relative’s death is an event of great significance among Tharus and rituals conducted vary in accordance to the regions. They approach shamans as doctors, known as Guruba. Such shamans use Buddhist medicine to cure illnesses.

Tharus believe sickness comes when the gods are displeased and the demons are at work so shamans will try to appease the gods through incantations, beating drums and offering sacrifices.

As with many other backward communities around the world and not just in Nepal, Tharus too are slowly letting go of a lot of their practices to adapt to modern life.

With increasing prices of livelihood and lifestyles, they have no alternative to this.

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Recommended restaurants&Bars

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365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 2110800 Speciality: Arabian

Cafereena Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4231313 Speciality: Thai, Multi

Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Indian

Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Nepali, Continental

Baryo Fiesta Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4414395 Speciality: Tandoori, Taas

Café de Patan Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 Speciality: Newari Foods

Factory Thamel Tel:4701185 Speciality: Multi

Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Thamel Tel:4422519 Speciality: Multi

Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Dillibazar Tel:4411603 Speciality: Nepali

Cherry Lounge & Bar Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Mob: 9741 115143 Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks

Fire And Ice Thamel Tel:4250210 Speciality: Italian

Hot Breads New Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Confectionery

Bhumi The Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4412193 Speciality: Newari

Chopstick Restaurant & Bar Buddhabari, Teku, Kathmandu Tel: 4104503 Speciality: Chinese Cuisine

Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Bouddha, Kathmandu Tel: 2140277 Speciality: Chinese

Holiday Karaoke Restaurant & Bar Pani Pokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4445731 Speciality: South, East, Asian

Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Restaurant Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4721939 Speciality: Various Veg Tastes

Chez Caroline Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070 Speciality: French

Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Teku Tel:4260630 Speciality: Multi

Kausi Kitchen Restaurant and Bar Woodland Complex Tel:4227288 Speciality: Multi

Delicatessen Center & Cafe Durbar marg Tel:4221331 Speciality: Multi

Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Bar Chhetrapati Tel:4212730 Speciality: Italian/Indian

Khing Thai Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel:4244378 Speciality: Thai

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Bourbon Room Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental

authentic flavour from china

Tian Rui Chinese Restaurant & Bar Pvt. Ltd. Thapathali, Kathmandu, Phone: 4243078, Fax: 4249162 Email - tianruiktm@yahoo.com

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10% discount for clients of Himalayan Bank Ltd. card holders and ACE Development Bank Ltd. ‘Ace Nari Bachatt’ card holders

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Koto Restaurant Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine

Matsuri Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4229032 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese

K-Too Bear & Steak House Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Thai

Mike’s Breakfast Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian

La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel:4700612 Speciality: Italian

Moods Studio Lounge Blue Bird Mall Tel:4215740 Speciality: Multi Cuisine

Lakhe Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4256606 Speciality: Lebanese, French, Italian

Nepali Chulo Restaurant Durbar Marg Tel:4220475 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner

Layaku Restaurant Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Multi

Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tel: 4414383 Speciality: Organic Foods

Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Thamel Tel:2191729 Speciality: Italian

OR2K Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4422097 Speciality: Israeli, Arabian

Pizza Express Lazimpat Tel:2161212 Speciality: Pizza Rice & Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel:4260677 Speciality: Chinese Road House Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5520524 Speciality: Italian Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 01-6914930 Speciality: Australian Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-230890 Speciality: Indian, Continental Royal Thai Restaurant New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai

The Ambiance Restaurant & Bar

Mangal Bazar, Lalitpur Tel: 5538980 Speciality: Multi La Rotisserie Grilled Chicken & Sandwich & Ice Cream Parlor Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 5530823

It is an European style of cooking system, which stops the spit for a period of 20 seconds in front of heating element every 180 degrees. It allows meat to constantly baste itself, sealing in natural juices while letting fat drip off. The Rotisserie offer delicious, low-cholesterol, healthy grilled chicken and many more to all of valued customers...

Walter Restaurant & Bar Please Contact for Latest Mouth Watering Selection...

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Baber Mahal Revisited, Kathmandu, Phone: + 977 (1) 425 3337 walters.restaurant.nepal@gmail.com

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On a

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Korean cuisine adventure First time contributor Looza Mahazu writes about finding bliss and devouring it in his Korean cuisine craving.

Text by Looza Mahaju

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The table was festooned with lots of dishes, different varieties of sauce and greens.

You’ve been to Thamel, right? Good.

It won’t be hard to find this place then.

Take the lane that leads you to the Road House Café. Head straight and stop by its entrance, then turn left. Notice the small brightly lit alley that slowly calls to you?

Onwards, my friend. A few steps past the street-side shops that bloom every morning in Thamel, you’ll notice a small board, to your left. The board says, Korean restaurant. Fear not, don’t let the name intimidate you; go in and savor the homely ambience of the place. If you’d rather prefer an outdoor setting, march on. See that door in front of you? Yes, the same one from where the sweet aroma is coming from.

so I settled with Korean soaps, their cookery show and everything else that gets a channel running. Like they say, if you keep watching anything, something interesting will pop up sooner or later. Something did come up.

“We serve authentic fare here,” explained Gurung, “We get all of our stuff, the seasonings, the ingredients and the raw materials straight from Korea. Our taste is not much different from what you’d get in Korea. It’s that similar.”

A family of four was busy preparing their dinner; nothing surprising about that. The table was festooned with lots of dishes, different varieties of sauce and greens. Pop! The family produces a flaming stove, resting it in the middle of the table and starts frying pork on it. I was flabbergasted! And I did not understand this strange custom until I saw it being done for myself.

I know you are mesmerized. I too had not expected such a grand sitting arrangement in the garden. This has got to be the way to experience the culinary delights of this interesting Korean eatery that goes by Hankook Sarang.

“Ah, you must be talking about Sam Gyeop Sal,” says Namgya Wangdi Gurung, owner of the fine Korean restaurant, Hankook Sarang. “It’s a popular dish here in our restaurant too. You get to cook it as you go along.”

The idea as it turns out is to let it cook over a slow fire, allowing the slow heat to bring out the flavor of the meat. The soybean paste and the Banchan that accompanies the dish further enhance the flavor. It tastes just like a regular pickle, made spicier with an extra bit of grounded black pepper, but somehow different. It tasted ‘native’.

Along with Sam Gyeop Sal, we ordered some Kimchi Jigae, Bibimbap and Kimbab.

It went down well with the main course.

Kimbab, or sushi, can be served as both, starters or along with the main course. I was rather apprehensive at first: my first taste of sushi over at a Japanese place had not gone well. The aroma of the dish did it for me; it was just too strong for my taste. The Kimbab I had in Hankook Sarang, however, had a rather pleasing aroma, made even better when dipped in the soy sauce.

My fascination with Korea and all things Korean started when my television set refused to broadcast nothing but Arrirang TV one day. I had nothing to do, no books to read and since it was raining all day, leaving the house was not an option. And

As in Japanese cuisine, tea plays an important part in Korean meals as well. It is served as a welcoming drink and is served as soon as the guest has taken their seat.

“Notice that subtle flavor?” commented a friend. “It’s supposed to get your appetite going.”

And whet our appetites it did. We passed around the Banchan, which there was al-

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ways more of, tried our hands at cooking (on the dining table), tried eating rice with chopsticks (not mandatory) and tried to place the distinct taste and pinpoint the ingredients used. All in all, we had a great time by a warm bonfire, eating under the stars. The best part of the meal, at least for me, was the subtlety of the dishes, of how the flavors melted into each other. Rather

than have one taste push aside another, the different tastes fused together into a beautiful culinary amalgamation.

And if you can read Korean, somewhere in the last section of the menu, in the comment section is a comment written by a Korean individual. It reads, “I love coming here whenever I am in Nepal,” it reads,

“The food here reminds me of home.”But of course, this is what we liked and hence, recommend. We strongly suggest you to not limit yourself with these dishes and urge you to choose some interesting combinations yourself. The staff at the Hankook Sarang is extremely friendly and will help you to choose that perfect dish for your next culinary adventure.

Bibimbap (Sticky Rice Mixed with Vegetables) Bibimbap is a dish made by mixing rice with various other cooked vegetables. The various assortments of vegetables gives the rice its distinct flavor and is full of nutrients. And, like with the chopsuey, it sits atop the dish, like a king, an egg, sunny side up.

Kimchi jigae If you are a connoisseur of soup, then this one comes highly recommended. As the name suggests, the taste of this soup is attributed by the ubiquitous kimchi. And that takes us to include the following.

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Kimchi Think Korean and this name will come up sooner or later.

Kimchi is a ubiquitous Korean dish. This dish is primarily served as a side dish, but demands as much respect as the main course. As Suraj Shrestha, a regular to the place puts it, “Kimchi is cabbage with extra make up. There is something appealing about its taste that makes me want to ask for refills, time and again.”

Banchan Just in case, if you are wondering about the array of side dishes that populate your table, it’s called Banchan.

Banchan refers to side dishes that accompany the main meal. Yes, you guessed right - Kimchi is the most famous of them all. They are generally served in small portions and are meant to be finished at each meal.

Sam Gyeop Sal If you like fried pork and are a hands-on food aficionado, this is the dish for you. The best thing about Sam Gyeop Sal is the soybean paste that accompanies it. It gives a whole new taste to the dish.

But of course, this is what we liked and hence, recommend. We strongly suggest you to not limit yourself with these dishes and urge you to choose some interesting combinations yourself. The staff at the Hankook Sarang is extremely friendly and will help you to choose that perfect dish for your next culinary adventure.

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NATURE&WILDLIFE

Protecting the Predator:

The Royal Bengal Tiger “God made the cat so that man might have the pleasure of caressing the tiger.”

Text by Prita Malla Photo Courtesy: WWF

Viewed with awe and fear because of its massive power and admired for its fiery beauty, the shadowed presence of the majestic feline permeates the forests where it still endures, and echoes hauntingly in those forests from which it has gone extinct.

The largest of the cats and the ultimate predator on land, tigers have existed on the Asian sub-continent since prehistoric times, both enthralling and terrifying mankind.

These are evident from various records and descriptions in centuries-old literature and monuments, in the philosophies of Sanatan Hinduism and Buddhism.

The majestic tiger is a fascinating specimen to study. It is capable of killing animals several times its own size. The average size of a male Bengal tiger is slightly less than three meters; that of a female is about 2.5 m. The average weight of a male tiger is 180-230 JAN - FEB 2010

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kg, the female, about 135-185 kg. Its coat is yellow to light orange, and the stripes range from dark brown to black; the belly is white, and the tail is white with black rings.

The distinct markings are unique to each individual tiger.

The tiger is however a solitary animal. It’s most frequent social interactions are between the female and her cubs. An adult male and female are associated briefly, for two to three days for the purpose of mating. This can take place all year round with most tigers preferring the days after the rainy season. After a gestation period of approximately103 days, two to five cubs are born to the female. Newborn cubs weigh around a kilogram (2.2 lbs) and are blind at birth. A female with small cubs keeps a low profile. The cubs depend on the mother for the first 18 months and then they start hunting on their own. The female tiger can have cubs as early as at the age of three

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years; males reach maturity by the time they are four. In prime habitat, a tigress may give birth to cubs every two years, until she is ten years old. The average reproductive life of a female is just about six years; whereas, that of the male is less than three years. The life span of a tiger in the wild is estimated to be less than twenty years.

Tigers are very territorial. They occupy relatively large habitats: the size usually depends on the prey density of the area.

They mark their territories with urine on trees and bushes and by marking their traveling route by scraping the ground. Its ideal habitat includes forests with tall alluvial grasslands that have water. Such habitat provides sufficient cover for concealment, for stalking its prey, and for hiding its kills.

Tigers have dens in caves, tree hollows and dense vegetation. Dependent on sight and hearing rather than smell, the tiger stalks its prey and once it is close, attacks from the

side or rear and kills its prey with a bite to the neck or the back of the head.

The tiger is the top predator in the food pyramid of a forest ecosystem and consumes a variety of animals and as such, it is also an indicator of the health of that ecosystem.

Bengal tigers are classified as obligate carnivores, meaning that they have a strict diet of meat. The tiger is also an opportunistic hunter, preying upon animals of all sizes, ranging from the adult Gaur, to the Langur and birds. The nature of the tiger’s hunting method and prey availability results in a ‘feast or famine’ feeding style. Tigers gorge themselves often consuming 18–20 kg of meat at one time as they may not be hunting again for several days.

In Nepal, specifically, the tiger preys upon a wide variety of prey species, including the Sambar deer, swamp deer, spotted deer, hog deer, barking deer, and wild pig. Do-

Tigers gorge themselves often consuming 18–20 kg of meat at one time as they may not be successful hunting again for several days. mestic livestock are also preyed upon, if found near its habitat. A normal tiger always avoids contact with human beings.

Hunger though, is the most likely factor that overrides the tiger’s aversion to man.

The incidence of man-eating cases has however been associated with a number of reasons: an incapacitated tiger, the escalation of competition among males, disturbances in the natural predator-prey balance, due to increased human interference in and around its habitat and the tigers being pushed to a marginal habitat.

Looking for tigers has to be one of the greatest and often most exciting wildlife experiences. Not only do they hold a particular mythical hold on us as apex predators, but they are also very elusive and really well camouflaged.

The national parks of Nepal are open on daily basis. From October to January, vegetation is green and lush after the monsoons, and it’s harder to see tigers because of the tall grasses and heavy foliage. However, from February to May, temperatures rise, the grass wilt and die, landscapes turn to dust and water dries up, making it a good

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A normal tiger always avoids contact with human beings. time to see and photograph wildlife. Tigers in the national parks can be viewed either from open vehicles on game drives or from the back of elephants. Increasingly parks have or are considering locating machans or wildlife hides to enhance viewing opportunities and experiences.

Sadly, the tenuous relationship between tigers and humans has pushed this magnificent creature to the brink of extinction.

Poised at the top of the ecosystem, the endangered tiger is an indicator of an ecosystem that is in crisis. People continue to kill tigers and to overwhelm landscapes where tigers once roamed freely.

There are very few people who understand the true importance of protecting the tiger.

Most people think of it as saving a magnificent looking animal. This is but a small fraction of why we need to save this incredible feline. If the tiger became extinct, the population of prey species like spotted deer

and sambar would burst at the seams. This over-population problem would then totally ravage its food source - vegetation. If the plants in the jungles were to be finished, what would refurbish the soil? If the soil was no longer fertile, new plants would not grow. Over the years, this would mean thinning jungles and then the end of jungles as we see them now.

An end to jungles also means the disappearance of the biggest suppliers of oxygen.

This is a very simple description of what the result of tiger extinction could mean to our own survival. The challenge of saving the tiger is what lies at the heart of its conservation. A world without tigers is a world without hope—like a clear night’s sky without stars. A world without tigers would be a terrible loss, symbolizing a morbid disregard for nature and our heritage. It is not necessary for every one of us to take worldawakening steps. All we have to really do is influence those that are a part of our lives.

Obviously, anyone wanting to do more than that is more than welcome to lend a hand in the movement. Look at saving the tiger as a test: if we pass, we get to keep the planet.

Fast Facts • Type: Mammal • Diet: Carnivore • Size: Head and body, 1.5 to 1.8 m; tail, 0.6 to 0.9 m • Weight: 109 to 227 kg • Protection status: Endangered • Did you know?

• A group of tigers is called a streak • A tiger’s roar can be heard as far as 3 km away.

• Most tigers have more than 100 stripes, and no two tigers have identical stripes.

• If you were to shave the fur from a tiger it would still have stripes.

• It is believed that the two white dots on the back of a tiger’s ears are designed to act as a visual beacon to enable the cubs to follow their parent.

• All tigers have a similar marking on their forehead, which resembles the Chinese symbol Wang, meaning King.

• It is estimated that Bengal tigers are still being killed by poachers and villagers at the rate of one per day.

• We could lose the wild tiger in as little as five yrs time.

• The tiger has only one predator...MAN!

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perfecttaKeAWAYS

pashmina Perennially In Vogue

What better gift for a loved one, intended to spread warmth than a pashmina throw that literally warms the body.

Text by Prasanna Pandey

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can hardly be supplanted by any other type of fine wool fabric. In fact, warmth and texture are the sole indicators of the quality of a pashmina product.

Each springtime the farmers native to the mountainous slope of this beautiful country climb up its slopes to comb delicate woolen undercoat from the neck and chest of the Himalayan Mountain goat, locally known as Chayangra (Capra Hircus). This rare breed of goat is generally found between altitudes of twelve thousand to fourteen thousand feet above sea level. To insulate them from the harsh Himalayan winters these special goats develop a thin inner coat which they shed during spring. Each hair thus obtained is twelve to fourteen microns thick which is about one-sixth of the human hair. This unique inner coat of hair serves as the raw material; the end product of which is a fabric popularly known as pashmina. Pashmina is a word derived from Persian ‘Pashm’ which means finest wool fiber.

The origins of this fabric can be attributed to the primeval human desire for warmth in the inhospitable wintry chill. Seeking inspiration from Mother Nature, they invented an ingenious method of acquiring hairs from whatever goats they had grazing around and weaving them into a fabric to insulate themselves. To their astonishment they discovered that the fabric they had created was a sublime gift that exceeded their expectations. The art of creating such a fabric would be passed down through generations within closed family circles that would keep their art-form intact. As the fame of pashmina grew and expanded beyond the family circles, introduction of newer methodologies and technologies further enhanced the end product. Through centuries of further experimentation and refinement, pashmina evolved into a fabric cherished for its warmth and feel and in to the form familiar to us today.

From a distance a shawl made of pashmina looks like any ordinary shawl made of fine wool. If you brush up against it you may mistake it for a cashmere shawl.

From a distance a shawl made of pashmina looks like any ordinary shawl made of fine wool. If you brush up against it you may mistake it for a cashmere shawl. Only when you drape it across your shoulders will you know how a pashmina shawl is different from other fabrics. It has an exquisite, almost inexplicably fine texture and negligible weight. The warmth it provides TIMES JAN - FEB 2010

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horizontally in a beam according to the width of the fabric that is to be made. In a shawl of width 90 cm there are typically about 3800 yarn threads. After this process the silk is inserted into a nylon netting to give it patterns by a process called ‘drafting’. After drafting the silk thread, the spun yarn of pashmina is used as a filling to weave the patterns onto the shawl using a handloom. It is then removed from the netting. It takes about three hours to weave a shawl but it has to undergo further processing before it becomes ready for the market.

Pashmina seems to be almost as old as the culture that invented it. It was considered as a status symbol since the days of its inception. Prosperous families often gave it away as dowry to accompany their daughters in marriage. It adorned the walls of temples and monasteries during festivities. Leaders of a tribe or a village would be covered with pashmina during such special ceremonies.

A parallel culture that evolved in the Kashmir valley also used similar hair and weaving methods to create a fabric that was not very different from the fabric under discussion here. As far as quality is concerned, it is a debatable fact as of which fabric is better.

Kashmiri pashmina or ‘cashmere’ is documented to have originated in the 15th century and it received an unending patronage from the Mughal emperors that improved the local cottage industries and the livelihood of people living in that area for a few centuries. Pashmina remained largely unknown to the world until the 19th century when Napoleon Bonaparte gifted an exotic pashmina shawl to Empress Josephine whereupon it became a craze in France. It is also said to have adorned the courts of Caesar and Mary Antoinette. Pashmina has held its own special place in history as the fabric of choice of royaltiy and dignitaries around the world ever since.

Most of the commercially available pashmina is woven by hand in local handlooms.

The raw hair obtained from the chyangra is stretched and cleaned by soaking it in a mixture of rice and water for a few days.

This also makes the hair softer. Then the hair is dried and woven on a spinning wheel or charkha. The spinning process is a performance that demands exceptional levels of patience and dexterity and makes for a great viewing. If the pashmina is to be mixed with silk, the silk thread is wrapped

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After the shawl is woven it is checked for imperfections such as missing or extra threads. If the threads are missing they are patched using needlework. Excessive pashmina or silk threads are either removed or tied into knots. The shawls are then generally subjected to a crushing force for ten to fifteen minutes which enhances their softness. Once the shawls are crushed briefly, they are washed to prevent further shrinkage, remove odor and eliminate any stains and dirt that might have accumulated dur-

Pure pashmina is much warmer than the silk/ pashmina blend and the difference in warmth depends on the percentage of silk content in the item. ing and after the weaving process.

The final process in pashmina manufacture is the process of dyeing the fabric. A huge container is maintained at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius throughout the dyeing process where the fabric has to be continuously stirred to ensure the uniformity of color. Some firms are known to

employ Tibetan artists especially for the dyeing process as it involves a very delicate and intricate routine.

A typical silk/pashmina blend of fiber consists of 70% pashmina and 30% silk. The distinction between a silk/pashmina blend and 100% pure pashmina is the lustrous sheen obvious in the silk/pashmina blend which is desirable on some occasions such as weddings and other formal events, where the dresses often are made of materials that also have sheen, such as silk or satin. Pure pashmina is much warmer than the silk/pashmina blend and the difference in warmth depends on the percentage of silk content in the item.

The versatility of a Pashmina product in the form of stoles, scarves, sweaters, mufflers and a host of other accessories is sure to bring a touch of decadence to your wardrobe. This versatility coupled with its high end fashion appeal make every pashmina product a unique masterpiece. Moreover, if you plan on traveling light, an addition of a pashmina accessory would not significantly add to your overall load. Since most of these products are exported abroad, why not get a genuine pashmina product when you are in the area?

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festivalwatch

Gadhi Mai Mela

A Journey of Hope

Text by Utsav Shakya Photos by Rocky Prajapati

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A holy pond by the Gadhi Mai Temple

Every five years, the people of Bariyarpur in Bara district ready themselves to witness one of the most popular Hindu festivals in the country – the Gadhi Mai Mela (festival). Goddess Gadhi Mai’s modest temple resides in this dusty little town, an hour and a half’s drive away from the industrial town of Birgunj, in Parsa district of southern Nepal. During the festival, devotees throng this small village to pay their respects to Goddess Gadhi Mai. This year visitors came from as far away as Bihar in India as well as neighboring towns, often crowding already narrow roads. A lot of Indian devotees had come to Janakpur, east of Birgunj, for another huge Hindu festival - Bibaha Panchami, the marriage of Ram and Sita, characters from the Hindu epic Ramayana.

Not being able to resist the lure of attend-

ing two Hindu festivals while in Nepal, the thousands of Indian devotees had made their way to Bariyarpur via Birgunj.

The scene in Birgunj was no less busy than it surely was in Bariyarpur. The industrial town is no tourist haven and hotels, lodges and restaurants there cater mostly to visiting businessmen and locals. Never before had hotels and lodges in Birgunj been so jam packed as during the festival. Restaurants and shops teemed with the unfamiliar faces of tourists. Whereas traffic usually dies down by eight in the evening there, this time around, auto-rickshaws and tractors carried devotees from across the border towards Bariyarpur well past midnight.

The festive atmosphere on the way to Bari-

The festive atmosphere on the way to Bariyapur from Birgunj rendered most visitors speechless.

yapur from Birgunj rendered most visitors speechless. The sheer number of people who had decided on taking this journey seemed to have brought with them an almost tangible energy and sense of faith and joy. The air seemed charged with positive vibes. Men, women, children, the elderly had all crowded into trucks, buses and auto rickshaws to get here. An old tractor struggled with pulling along two trailers packed beyond capacity with devotees of all ages, their beddings as well as the animals they had brought along to sacrifice here. Astonishing numbers of people walked all the way to the festival, some of them doing so for more than a week. A lot of them had chosen to walk barefoot. They considered the whole trail to the temple to be holy ground. “There is no way we would walk in with impure chappals,” said one woman, her face partially veiled with one end of her sari.

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And when they got to Bariyarpur, it was nothing less of chaotic, but in a very good way. The contradiction was stark but in strange ways, it seemed to work. The chaos was beautiful. Around the temple grounds, people had set up temporary shelters for themselves - under parked trucks and tractors, in the shade of huge trees, inside hired buses that stood there in the warm sun witnessing this amazing journey and festival.

The dry plains in the backdrop seemingly stretched on forever. Children played in these temporary settlements, hopping off happily into adjacent fields, pleased with their expansive, new playground. Women chopped vegetables, cooked on wood fires and called out to their children and 2

Astonishing numbers of people walked all the way to the festival, some of them doing so for more than a week.

1. Devotees of all ages made it to the Gadhi Mai Mela 2. The crowds at the Mela 3. A carnival in full swing behind the temple premises 4. The sun sets on the fields surrounding the temple

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husbands. The elderly played cards and reminisced about times gone by as vehicles carrying thousands moved slowly on the single lane road. The line stretched back to back all the way to Birgunj.

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At the center of all this commotion is Gadhi Mai, a goddess who reportedly helped a man flee from prison to have her own stone image moved to a new location. According to mythology, the man - happy to be on the other side of the bars - sacrificed an animal for Gadhi Mai. She apparently asked for more. As a poor man, he could only do this every five years, said the man and so it became. And so it is today. Every five years, 3

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The air seemed charged with positive vibes. Men, women, children, the elderly had all crowded into trucks, buses and auto rickshaws to get here.

1. Devotees took what they could find to get the temple 2. Vehicles were jam packed to capacity 3. The majority of the devotees walked to the temple site 4. The line of the vehicles from Birgunj to Bariyarpur

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1. The sight of the festival was anything but boring 2. Most of the locals who offered sacrifices took home the meat 3. The amazing number of the people who turned up for the festival rendered many speechless

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The huge number of devotees who came on this pilgrimage to Bariyarpur’s Gadhi Mai temple were not there for just the animal sacrifices.

This was but a small part of the festival. The festival is more about hope, about optimism and about the beliefs of so many people pinned on this one deity.

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1. Sweet shop and others small businesses did well during the festival 2. Smaller, private sacrifices were happening everywhere

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animals and birds are sacrificed at the almost month long festival. In November of 2009, because the number of devotees who literally swarmed the temple grounds every day for the entire duration of the festival was in the millions, the animal sacrifices too increased exponentially.

On one of the main days this time around, more than twenty thousand buffaloes were beheaded as offerings to Gadhi Mai. The total count of animal sacrifices this year, according to some figures was 350,000. When this news got international media coverage, everyone from a French actress to a highly placed Indian politician, also an ani mal rights activist opposed the centuries-long Hindu festival strongly. Letters were sent to the Prime Minister and protest programs were organized in the capital city to put pressure on the government to stop the animal sacrifices from going ahead. Ironically, a significant part of the funds for the festival comes from India. In the end, the festival went ahead as planned. The meat was sold off to contractors in Kathmandu and the local Chamar community took the hide, which they use to make leather products.

The heads were buried in land specially allocated for it.

But the huge number of devotees who came on this pilgrimage to Bariyarpur’s Gadhi Mai temple were not there for just the animal sacrifices. This was but a small part of the festival. The festival is more about hope, about optimism and about the beliefs of so many people pinned on this one deity. Near the temple, a carnival was in full swing, complete with food stalls and Ferris wheels where young and old alike had a gala time. As the sun went down, crowds left for their homes. Tents were pulled down and stalls were closed. Engines were revved to start on the journey back. Bariyarpur would have to wait another five years before the Gadhi Mai Mela happened again.

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