TRAVEL TIMES - Pokhara Special

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february 2011

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VOL. 2 | ISSUE 12

Mini treks around Pokhara

himalayan highways

on destination spotlight

on Adventure intro

These natural trails reveal that Pokhara is just more than what meets the eye.

Dirt Biking all the way to Muktinath is Yeti Travel’s freshest adventurous leap.

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a photographic journey to

annapurna bASE Camp on photologue A surreal cirque of some of the world’s distinguished peaks.

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editorial

Editorial

Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 / 554 3176 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Managing Director / Editor aasha Ram Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager LABIN MANANDHAR Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Layout Supervisor Suman Maharjan Inhouse Writer nandita rana NISHA SHAKYA Photographer Suresh Maharjan rOCKY PRAJAPATI Sagar Karki Distribution surya rumba Kabiraj shakya Advisors anand rungta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Ramon Shrestha Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.

We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at

Dear Readers,

issue) to know what to do, how and why.

After the crippling cold of the last few weeks, the sun is finally out and hopefully for good this time. This means many things for the traveler in us. While the cold forced us to spend a minimum number of hours outdoors, a warmer sun means more reasons to get out of the house.

Another plus point for the colder parts of the year is that food seems to taste better – especially of the warm variety. Introduce yourself to the ubiquitous street food stalls in the capital city and fill up for a fraction of the cash you usually spend at restaurants.

You’ll be surprised by how some of those snacks are so addictive.

As a reward for our enforced hibernation, the end of winter - beginning of spring is an amazing time to travel in Nepal. The post winter trekking season is now too.

While the pre winter season is all about the peaks, post winter treks and hikes see entire hillsides start to blossom into amazing reds, yellows and oranges. Nepal is truly blessed

by Mother Nature.

Many of those treks start from Pokhara, Nepal’s favorite holidaying location. Here’s the good part though – Pokhara is itself quite an amazing place with a whole lot of surprises up its sleeves. Spend a few days here and indulge yourself. It’s quite a place.

Find a useful guide (our cover story this

Do you love traveling and want to write about your travel experiences? With Travel Times, you can now share your travel stories with thousands of like-minded fellow travelers. Have you always been exhilarated by the idea of traveling and being footloose? Have you always dreamt of spending life on the road or escaping into the wild? What have been your best travel memories ? What is your wildest travel fantasy?

At Travel Times we’d love to read about your experiences and help you present them better to a readership that is as passionate about traveling as you are.

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So see you out there. Happy Traveling people!

The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Want to Write for Travel Times?

Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at

Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at

Also in this issue is a feature on the Bardiya National Park, a sanctuary for endangered animals rare birds and a whole lot of greens with a fascinating history. With the usually intruder-shy animals, even the Royal Bengal Tiger, coming out to bask in the sun, it’s the time for a safari. Clear your schedules and make a trip. It’ll be one you won’t regret making.

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Rules and Instructions The only rules that we have is you are writing about a trip you have undertaken by yourself, that you have a good selection of photos and that you are very passionate about what you are writing.

The final article should be no more than a 1000 words. Tell about where you went, what that interested you about the place, and why you want to tell people about it. Also include a few details about yourself - your age, profession, the companions you traveled with and let us know how we can reach you.

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Contents Contents

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Berlin in February

POKHARA

on Travelogue

on COVER STORY

Be it boating in Phewa Taal, trekking around its hills or gasping at dramatic sighting of the mountain peaks or simply venturing into the many mysterious caves – Pokhara is a getaway one can’t get enough of!.

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Strolling through Berlin, the city exhibits a fine example of architectural prowess and monuments of historic magnitude, preserved through time.

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Exploring Nepal’s

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Street food’s

culture on good food

Spiced salads, roasted beans, steaming momos and so on. The culture might just be setting in, but the streets of Kathmandu dishes up an overwhelming array of local cuisine.

himalayan highways

on Adventure intro

Newari pottery

Dirt Bike all to way to Muktinath, treading on deserted landscapes and into the wilderness of the Mustang valley – is there a better way to relive this experience?

Probably not!

on PEOPLE AND CULTURE

‘A wonder of the earth, erected toward the high skies,’ journey to Halong Bay, a UNESCO world heritage site, and its truly mystical islands and geomorphic contour.

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48 Mini treks around Pokhara on DESTINATION SPOTLIGHT

With new and already existing trails, Pokhara offers excellent opportunities for trekking around its scenic landscapes.

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a photographic journey with

annapurna bASE Camp

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on photologue

Start traveling....with Travel Times 12 14-17 46

photo of the month

Reveal the best photography of the month.

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Staying healthy while traveling this winter on health times

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on Hotel & casino

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Recommended restaurants

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all you need for Winter Motorbiking

A guide to the most happening restaurants in town

Winter can be a hard time for all motorbike lovers.

Here’s what you need to to ease this season.

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The tallest hotel in Nepal stands tall in many other ways as well. Find out how.

Travel News

Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

The grand hotel

Woolens handicrafts on perfect takeaways

Whether snuggling up in the softest pashmina or decorating rooms with felt handicrafts, winter celebrates the plethora of vibrant, woolen varieties available in different patterns and knits

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Traveler’s Info

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photomonth of the

by: rocky prajapati

patan durbar square An afternoon in Patan Durbar Square - Gods in golden glaze juxtaposes life, where commotions parallel divine. In streets paved through history, motion and stillness collide, through a transparency where life mirrors life.

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Travelnews

7th International Elephant Race Hounded by national and international media, local and foreign visitors, the 7th Annual Elephant tournament concluded with a bang. A three-day event inaugurated by the Honorable Minister of Foreign Affairs Sharad Singh Bhandari, on December 26, 2010, was also declared the regional opening of Nepal Tourism Year (NTY) 2011. Festival highlights included an elephant race with the participation of 20 elephants, elephant football and even an elephants beauty pageant - introduced for the first time.

An initiative of Regional Hotel Association of Nepal to ‘preserve wildlife, conserve culture and promote tourism’ in the areas of Chitwan and in the Terai, the festival garnered rave reviews both nationally and internationally. KIST bank and Hotel Barahi Pokhara were declared winners of the Elephant race and Elephant football, respectively while Champakali was crowned winner of the elephant beauty pageant among six other contestants.

Visitor Arrivals Reaches New Heights in 2010 The year 2010 ended with positive notes, both in terms of total visitor arrivals for the month of December and also for the whole year. The figures released by Immigration Office, Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) reveal that visitor arrivals in the month of December 2010, compared to the same month last year, have increased by 15.7% to 36,323. Also, the total number of visitor arrivals in aggregate (Jan-Dec, 2010), compared to same period in 2009, have increased by 18.5% to an all time high figure of 448,769.

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Everest Base Camp topped the list of CNN 10 best trips for 2011.

According to CNN Reports, the co-host of international television show World Travels and travel writer Robin Esrock will lead a 20day trek to the Everest Base Camp starting from Kathmandu with World Expeditions.

CNN has revealed on its website the thrill of high-altitude trekking in Nepal has become more accessible recently.

Etihad awards best travel agency of the year in Nepal Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates, paid tribute to Nepal’s travel agencies at Etihad’s Travel Trade Recognition Award Ceremony in Kathmandu, recognizing the airline’s best performing agencies and tour operators in the country. The event, which took place recently at the Soaltee Crown Plaza Hotel in Kathmandu, saw more than 90 travel agent professionals from across Nepal attend the prestigious event.

Ten awards were handed out during the event including the ‘Best Agency of the Year’ and three category awards for: ‘Best Premium Sales’; ‘Best Share Shift’; and ‘Best GDS Practice Award’.The awards were presented by Joost Den Hartog, Etihad Airways’ Regional General Manager – Asia pacific North and Indian subcontinent.

CNN’s coverage and the international expedition in April are expected to boost tourism in Nepal at the backdrop of Nepal Tourism Year 2011. Other destinations mentioned on CNN’s list are Chengdu in China, Ireland, Palau and Borneo.

Goodwill Ambassadors for NTY

The Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) has appointed nine Guinness World Record holders as the Goodwill Ambassadors for the Nepal Tourism Year (NTY) 2011 for different categories.

Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Rohit Timilsina, Mathura Shrestha and Temba Chhiri Sherpa are among them. Thaneshwor Guragain, Pratistha Amatya Bista, Neema Gumbu Serpa, Mingma Tshering Serpa and Nima Temba Serpa are also on the same list.

NTY-2011 in Australia Uniting Nepal, a collective of people’s voice organized a program in Australia on December 3rd with the support of Nextyatra. com, a premium travel site. Addressing over a hundred members of Uniting Nepal, the program briefed about Nepal Tourism Year (NTY) – 2011 campaign and the latest updates on the tourism products of special interest for Australian travelers. Intrested

tourists were provided with information about Nepal and various attractions and events, natural beauty, adventures and other travel information.

Volunteers of Uniting Nepal have distributed the brochures of Nepal Tourism Board and NextYatra for informational and publicity purpose.

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Travelnews

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Eticketnepal takes business travel to a whole new level with its philosophy - “BY THE AGENTS, FOR THE TRAVELERS”. Concluding presentations among hundreds of travel agencies, eticketnepal seriously demonstrates the prowess to make travel business much easier, faster and cheaper.

“Be the part of the change; a change that makes travel business much easier, faster and cheaper.”

-Eticketnepal.com

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ticketnepal.com will soon be launching an Online International Ticket Booking service to enable Travel Agents with tickets booking at the lowest possible rate, and benefits that include more than 100 flight details per search.

Aimed at providing numerous value added benefits to agents are information on flights and back with accurate rates and taxes as well as the number of stop overs and their duration, not to mention the lowest possible fare rates with suitable timings of flights. All fares are arranged in ascending order, with the cheapest displayed on top. On entering ones details, agents can issue e-ticket as e-mail within minutes. In

conclusion, it is an extremely user-friendly booking engine that saves considerable time and effort compared to GDS booking.

Joining this system, agents can get privileges from Eticketnepal.com partnered airlines, provide 24x7 support to their customers and enjoy special airfares. Along with these sure shot benefits, the segment incentive starts from NPR. 101 for every valid segment.

The program was held on 15th and 22nd of January, 2011 at Utsav Restaurant, Durbarmarg among the wide participation of delegates from different travel agencies, airlines, hotels, bank and medias.

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Travelnews

What does Eticketnepal.com say about themselves?

EticketNepal.com, an online venture of Gorkha Travels, is here to deliver an easy solution where travelers get service from travel agency partners via a range of innovative and useful services. Through technology, we aim to provide a simple, profitable, scalable and sustainable model for our partners with low capital investment and low overheads.

EticketNepal.com is the easy business model concept of “BY THE AGENTS, FOR THE TRAVELERS”.

We bind your needs with our understanding of business and technology usage enabling an opportunity to flourish your ticketing services much powerful than before.

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Mr. Prabin Shrestha, CIO of Eticketnepal.com, explaining technical aspects of ETICKETNEPAL.COM

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Remarks by Mr. Alasdair Boyd, Country Manager of Dragon Air

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Remarks by Capt. K. B. Limbu, Executive Chairman of Nepal Airlines

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Mr. Surender Bhandari, CEO of Siddhartha Bank presenting Token of Honour

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Remarks by Mr. John Evans, Country Manager of Etihad Airways

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Remarks by Mr. Ramdas Shivram, Country Manager of Qatar Airways

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Remarks by Mr. Chantouch Srinilta, General Manager of Thai Airways

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Remarks by Mr. Uday Kiron Shukla, General Manager of Abacus Nepal

Though the return in ticketing business is lucrative and growing flight passengers have excited the agents more than before. For the travel agents, the situation has been quite pressing because of tight standards of IATA, aggressive nature of airlines and irregularly divided market.

Few issues like lowest fare availability, competition on margin, credit denial and analog steps in service providing have taken the night’s sleep from the agents.

In this foraying situation, the Eticketnepal.com has formed the tailor made working model for Nepali ticketing agents ensuring highest profit margin, least hassles and joining the shoulders with global trend.

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ogue Travel

Berlin in February Words SRADDA THAPA

the addition of a glass seat of the German parliament, At Reichstag, the reinstated t. ss the city, especially at nigh dome affords great views acro

I am told by friends who are based in Berlin that February isn’t really the best time of year to visit. But as I was doing just that, I’ll have to take their word for it, because really, Berlin in February wasn’t all that bad.

Yes, it was cold. It was ice-y, slushy and snowy, but it was still very pretty.

I was in town for a few days to check out a university I’d been eyeing for a year, and having done my undergrad on the outskirts of a major city, I knew the importance of location, location, location. And so, between meeting the admissions officer and touring the campus, I took time to absorb the city.

For any student of History, Political Science or International Affairs (of which I was the latter), the chance to visit the city that dominated the pages of textbooks and dictated most classroom discussions, it was exhilarating to say the least. Having devoured the most all of children’s literature on the holocaust by 4th grade, I was overjoyed to be finally walking where some of my fictional characters once supposedly did.

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Checkpoint Charlie was definitely the highlight of my trip. We got off at the Kochstraße metro stop - which, believe it or not, is located smack-inthe-middle of a four way street so that the only way to get anywhere is to diagonally cross over.

This makes it the only diagonal crossway I have ever crossed. I was giddy and couldn’t stop giggling

Berlin in February wasn’t all that bad. Yes, it was cold. It was ice-y, slushy and snowy, but it was still very pretty.

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21 Obviously, I had to walk into the shop and let out a silent squeal as I picked up what looked like a piece of the wall on sale for seven euros. I marveled aloud that they would even sell pieces of history and I’m glad I think out loud because the salesclerk looked at me and in a matter-of-fact tone replied, “the pieces are fake, we make them to sell them”. I promptly stepped out of the line and into the street, and wondered what the value of a fake piece of the wall was.

masts with Checkpoint Charlie houses the previous of ica repl iers sold image of . side American and Soviet

as we made our way forward.

Further down the road, I saw a tiny cubicle and a supposed guard which stand as reminders of what the checkpoints looked like back in the day. But it’s hard to imagine (without the aid of movies recreating the scene) because today the city has grown on both sides and there are no barbed wires in between. What exists instead is a tiny museum, a square of the Berlin wall and an obligatory souvenir shop.

The next day Charis, my old college buddy and student of the said university, was drowning in schoolwork and after attending a lecture delivered by the then president of the then European Commission, José Barroso, we parted ways in front of the famous Berliner Dom . This Berlin Cathedral stands tall and proud, as though it were never destroyed during the war and had to be rebuilt thereafter; a fact that is difficult for a traveler from a country like Nepal where the sorry state of oncegrand architecture is the norm, especially when our buildings haven’t been bombed in quite the same way. Charis scooted off to cater to her paper as she handed me over to her friends.

After a lively discussion regarding the EC and Germany at a nearby pub, her friend, Simon made sure I didn’t get lost in the city and showed me my way to Charis’ apartment. Lucky for me, he decided to walk by an entire mile of what remained of the actual Berlin Wall! For a girl that had jumped up and down at the sight of one slab over at Checkpoint Charlie the day before, this was a real treat. (The only thing that stopped my tears of joy was probably the fact that Simon was a complete stranger).

As we walked alongside what remained of the wall

I had to walk into the shop and let out a silent squeal as I picked up what looked like a piece of the wall on sale for seven euros. l in the liner Dom is the main cathedra A baroque-style building, Ber 5. ed to public since 200 city. It’s museum was open

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The Weltzeituhr, which literally translates to “world time clock” is a device through which you can calculate the time of any place in the world. symbols of Berlin’s l is One of the most famous The 3.6 metre high Berlin Wal long East Side Gallery re met 6 1,31 a wall includes history, remains of the Berlin s. containing over 100 painting

he told me that Berlin considers graffiti modern art and so permits paint and scribble on top of the wall. I was shocked that this piece of history, which in my mind, belonged to all of mankind could be, so to speak, vandalized legally. But, then I stumbled upon a few works that proved the wall is simply a metaphor that continues to be shaped and enlivened for the world today.

Something else that stood solemnly and quietly as a testament to humanity were the eerily empty crystal white book-cases that lined the four walls of an underground space visible through the thick glassed ground in Opernpatz. In 1933, the famous Nazi book burnings had occurred on the very spot.

Today it serves as a reminder for those who care to listen.

But all is not just history in the city of Berlin. Today the city is a thriving host to cosmopolitans from all walks of life. And, for a foodie such as yours truly, what is available for consumption is a good indication of how diverse the city may be. Aside from the traditionally European Apfelstrudel that melts in your mouth, my days in Berlin were spent hopping from one cuisine to another.

I met a Nepali friend of Charis’, Jyoti and her British friend, Mags at a Vietnamese place for lunch one day. And the next, Charis and I were munching on the Shawarmas and Falafals made famous in Berlin by the Turks.

And, so, between Checkpoint Charlie and the cuisine perhaps the only thing that left me unimpressed for the most unexpected part of Berlin was the

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Brandenburg Gate . I’m not sure what it is about the gate that had left me under the false impression that it was grand. Less than half the height it espouses on the television screen, it stood in the middle of the street and except for the few tourists posing for the obligatory “look-mom-I’m-in-Berlin” photos, no one else seemed to notice its presence.

But, the gate is of paramount historical and sentimental significance to those from Berlin, for it is through it that East and West Berlin were divided and then reconciled in 1989.

The East and West of Berlin co-exist today as remnants of the communist era which stubbornly presides over Berlin. The Weltzeituhr, which literally translates to “world time clock” is a device through which you can calculate the time of any place in the world. Something about the building strikes me as cold and hard, but in true Berlin fashion they weren’t destroyed as symbols of East Berlin’s pride.

metres tall, Brandenburg Gate stands 60 Symbolic of a unified Berlin, l. wal lin the Ber the only gate that remains of

and is

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23 just quietly hand my ID because these underground parties weren’t looking for an invasion of tourists and backpackers. Of course, I had to wonder if my 5-feet frame and every bit of nonAryan features didn’t give that much away, but as the bouncer nodded me in despite my very non-Berlin ID, I walked into the most awkward few moments of my life.

Not one to go out dancing all that often and definitely not so in a techno underground club I found the music difficult to follow. It was just noise to me and I wasn’t sure what was riling the crowd up. But, the good traveler that I am I joined them on the dance floor, pretended to get into the electro music (laughed at myself on the inside) and proceeded to feel like an absolute idiot. It didn’t help that my head leveled at most everyone’s navel because most really were that tall.

shows rotating installation that Weltzeituhr, a continually z. plat e, at Alexander time throughout the glob

The Fernsehturm, or the TV tower, still the tallest building in Germany shoots above the Berlin skyline. The tower was built by the then German Democratic Republic in East Berlin, to display its strength as it was to be visible from all parts of Berlin, including the west.

It is in the west that the Reichstag building stands tall and proud with the inscription, ‘To (or For) the German people’. The German parliament, unlike our Nepali one, is made available for anyone to visit.

The glass dome on top offers a 360-degree view of the city. And, though I am told lines are even longer in the summer months I was too lazy and simply ooh-ed and aah-ed over the intricate architecture, from the lawn itself. Apparently I missed out for in having the building never fully repaired since a suspicious fire of 1933 and the gross vandalism that took place during the second world war, the graffiti inscribed by the Soviets on the walls and roof remains preserved and still somewhat visible.

And yet again, not all is about the second world war and history in Berlin.

My last night in town it was suggested I do something “very” Berlin and join the university students for a night out. As we stood in line, Simon turned around and suggested I don’t speak in English and

Needless to say, I didn’t last very long. But, long enough to look around, enjoy the strange crowd I had surrounded myself with and to politely excuse myself because I really did have an early morning flight out the next day.

Just a few days in Berlin and I knew I was going to need to find a reason to come back. I’d only seen very little of all that city had to offer. But, most of all as a citizen of a country still picking at the scabs of our conflict, I felt as though there was so much to learn from a city that had rebuilt itself, physically and emotionally, from a devastating war. But more so because Berlin didn’t try to hide its past, it tried to face it. So, it wasn’t just the world history that captivated me, but all that of the present that was too difficult for me to ignore.

The graffiti inscribed by the Soviets on the walls and roof remains preserved and still somewhat visible.

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coverstory

Sometimes you can’t explain why you fall in love with a place. Does it have everything to do with the place or is it all in the mind of the vacationer, who suddenly presented with time to stop and smell the roses, starts seeing everything differently? Is a place solely about its people or the things one can do there? A trip to Pokhara is full of answers, but you probably won’t have time to ask many questions.

Words Utsav Shakya Photos Rocky Prajapati

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CoverStory

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omeone breached the topic casually.

The effect was akin to opening a floodgate. We were at it the entire day. Even at dinner that night, we talked about it with fervor. Later at a bar where a local punk band drowned out half our words, we shouted out additional ideas, polishing up the plan. Hours later, adequately inebriated and half asleep in our beds, we mumbled out promises to

Infatuation

Imagine a woman with average features sipping a drink at the corner bar. She’s got nice hair but thin lips, a great smile but her fingers could be less scrawny, a slim body but maybe she could be a little more curvaceous – you think. Yet, your eyes are fixated on her. You hate the bar’s drinks. You return the next day. She’s there when you arrive. You order a tall one and pretend you’re not looking - all evening.

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stick to the plan.

The plan was an epic 48 hours in Pokhara - Nepal’s beautiful lake city, every Nepali’s favorite getaway and the gateway to numerous enchanted trekking trails. There seemed to be only one proper way to plan such a trip – plan it while we were still there. Yes, we were still in Pokhara.

Pokhara has that same unexplainable quality to it. Something about the place has you coming back for more, even though you might not have a clear idea of what more actually entails. Maybe it’s how the place comes together, with everything complementing everything else even though truth is, not all of the valley’s attractions are that unique. I like to think it has everything to do with how

Pokhara suggests of being more than just a nice vacation place. How it hints at a journey not just of fun and frolic but also discovery. This gets you thinking. This gets you obsessed. Maybe you are someone who makes a move when you see an attractive woman at the bar. This gets you to Pokhara. The mountains and the lakes make for an excellent cover for your trip.

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Situated at an altitude of 827m from the sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley, Pokhara is a slice of paradise.

Let It Roll

And one fine afternoon, with your shades, your sunscreen and a rucksack that screams newbie traveler, you hop off the bus and find yourself in Pokhara. This is happening.

Confession: This could have, sort of happened to me. Well, partially at least.

Situated at an altitude of 827m from sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley, Pokhara is a slice of paradise. Heard of too many places that advertise themselves as saying it’s got something for everyone?

Pokhara does justice to that cliché line.

Let me take you through my 48-hour epic Pokhara trip. Get an idea. Take notes.

Whatever you do, do not bump into us. We like to lose control when on vacation and what can happens in Pokhara has to stay in Pokhara.

So what was the first thing we were going to discover about ourselves once we reached Pokhara? That no matter when, what or where we ate on the bus ride here, (a fond shout out to the amazing buffet lunch at Riverside Spring Resort in Kurintar!), we were still going to want to fill up. Our place of choice for taking care of this would be Mamma Mia, where the attention is on the food and not much else.

Their pizza – actually also their spaghetti

and most of what is on their menu - is a definite, good start to your first evening in Pokhara.

That said, nightlife in Pokhara is pretty much at the Lakeside – a strip along the Fewa that’s full of bars, restaurants, clubs and shops selling a range of kitschy souvenirs. How we’d like to end the night – midnight boating on the Fewa, diving off into the cool waters, maybe even a few cold beers. Prohibited and needless to say, probably not the best plan. How we’d actually end the night – by re-visiting the Busy Bee bar for a few drinks and a taste of the live music scene. If loud rock is not your thing, there are places on the strip that also host cultural evenings, almost every night with folk music and traditional dances. Feel free to wander around and see what suits your mood the best.

Accommodations for the night? A number of options are available, from small lodges to the uber luxurious and everything in between. There is the Fulbari Resort and Spa, a 5-star establishment with a 9-hole golf course and its own Fulbari Casino.

Why we’d go for Fulbari though would be what the hotel’s website rightly promotes as “unparalleled panoramas of Fishtail and Annapurna mountain ranges to the north,

and the breathtaking Seti River Gorges to the South.”

At the other extreme, a tight budget does not mean crashing at a flea-infested crappy lodge. The lane behind Lakeside’s strip of nice hotels and restaurants is full of budget establishments that don’t feel like one. A pretty comfortable, more importantly clean, single bed with attached bath and a TV can be yours for the night for anything between NRs 600 to 800, ($8-10); not bad at all.

Where we would prefer to get our sleep for all three nights though? We’d probably try to get a good deal at the Fishtail Lodge.

The place impresses right away as you’re rowed across a small section of the Fewa on a wooden raft to the fantasy island-like lodge. Climbing up a few stone steps to arrive at a beautiful flower garden, you can’t help but notice the cottages that house your accommodations for the night. Why we’d vote for the Fishtail Lodge though?

Definitely, for the sweet spot across the garden and behind the dining hall, a small seating area on a private section of the Fewa with views of the Fishtail and Annapurna in the background. It’s hard to believe they don’t charge you extra for this.

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Day one is for doing the touristy thing - hiring a cycle to ride around the city and the lakeside, making stops at Pokhara’s main attractions.

Davis Fall

2 km away from central Pokhara City is the Davis Fall, the unique falling waterfall flowing endlessly into deep and narrow canal with no ends.

Known as Patale Chaago in Nepali, the waterfall got its name after a tourist named Davis fell into it and was never found. The waterfall is believed to be originated from the Seti River while it seems to disappear as it reaches to the end. The beautiful and dashing waterfall has been the core of enticement of Pokhara.

It has been able to hold the magnificence of the whole area.

Endless possibilities

After a night out drinking, we’d sleep in pretty late.

Maybe I’d get up for a quick view of the Himalayas from the room’s window, but that’d be before I pull the curtains back down and burrow myself into bed again. We’d start the day, the first hours of the 48 we bought ourselves with a hearty English breakfast at the lodge itself. Besides being an amazing cure for a hangover, we’d need it that day.

Day one is for doing the touristy thing - hiring a cycle to ride around the city and the lakeside, making stops at Pokhara’s main attractions.

Now the last time we cycled, we were around 4 feet tall, so this wouldn’t be as comfortable as we might imagine. Pokhara has much less traffic than the capital city and as we got used to the ridiculously tiny seat we were trying to sit on, it would prove to be a treat. Stop one – Davis Fall, a gorge with the Seti River crashing through, named after a certain David (or a certain Devi, depending on who’s telling you the story) who fell into the massive gorge and was never to be found again. The place now has railings around its viewing points so that tourists can enjoy the place without having it renamed after them. The monsoon would be a good time to enjoy the Davis fall, as the Seti River swells up unbelievably, spraying delighted visitors. Nepal’s Niagara Falls? You bet.

Right across from the Davis Fall is another of Pokhara attractions - Gupteswar Gufa (cave), stop number two. Almost 3 km long, the cave is a mix of huge hall-like spaces and passages where you will have to crawl on all fours. A phallic symbol of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, was discovered inside the cave which lends the place some added interest for Hindus. However, visitors will have to try extra hard to remember this place; taking pictures inside the cave is prohibited.

Locally known as Patale Chhango, the water in Davies fall flows 500 meters underground and more than 100 meters deep.

The monsoon season harnesses Davies fall’s true potential i.e. its wilderness, which falls from the month of June to September.

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Natural light beams into haughty hallways of the Gupteshwor cave - which is almost 3 km long.

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mahendra cave

A 10 minutes drive from Chipledhunga will take you to Mahendra Cave. Mahendra Cave located at Batulechaur has been named after the late King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev. It has been the center of attraction to internal as well as external tourists. Located at the northern and Pokhara valley, the cave is a natural tunnel. The 5 km long tunnel is a beautiful underground wonder with walls of limestone.

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Next on the list is Bat Gufa, locally known as Chamero Odhaar, meaning the house of bats!

Hiking enthusiasts will easily manage the two hours it takes to get to the popular cave. Another attraction that gets you down on your knees is the 5 km long Mahendra Cave. The rock formations, mainly limestone, lends it some major geological interest. Not that anyone has ever checked secret passages, but the cave is named after actual bats that infest the place and not because it is home to a local caped crusader. Regardless, it makes for an exciting time as you navigate the well-lit passages, gazing at the amazing rock formations, aware that the bats could decide to get pissed off at the intrusion at any time. That’s be a good time to call

on Batman. No one knows exactly how deep these caves run and rumor has it that a Swiss geologist did try to find the end of the caves, but gave up after two days of searching. Word of advice – do not wander off on your own here.

It makes for an exciting time as you navigate the well-lit passages, gazing at the amazing rock formations.

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Mahendra Gufa is a wonderful underground attraction, a natural tunnel that takes visitors into a different world. Limestone formations are the major attraction here.

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Visitors are recommended to bring along torches to view what remains of the amazing stalagmites and stalactites at the Mahendra cave.

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Discovered in 1950, the Mahendra cave is an explorer’s paradise with exquisite rock formation (including some glittering type), its ancient cave system and the inhabitation of different bat families.

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We’d give the foreign dishes a break and opt for some good old Thakali food for a late lunch.

Nothing kicks up a huge appetite like a bit of adventure and sightseeing. Time to take care of that empty feeling in your stomach. Pokhara’s Lake Side is full of great restaurants that serve everything from Italian to Indian cuisine – you’re free to take your pick. How would we do it? We’d give the foreign dishes a break and opt for some good old Thakali food for a late lunch.

THAKAlI FOOD

Thakali cuisine consists of a simple fare of rice with lots of side dishes; quite similar to many other cuisines in Nepal.

What makes it special is the variety, the visual appeal of the dishes, the small quirks and special techniques that make the taste so different. Thakali food specializes in being less spicy than its counterparts, and uses mellow spices such as timur. It introduces exotic items to the menu, may it be ‘dhedo’, a dish made of buckwheat (‘phaper’) flour, or chyangra sukuti, dried meat of the Himalayan sheep.

The Thakalis are an ethnic group in Nepal originally from the Thak Khola region on the banks of River Kali Gandaki in the exotic district of Mustang.

Today people from this community have migrated to different areas around the country, taking their amazing culinary skills with them amongst other unique cultural traits. What surely must be a regular meal for them – rice, lentils, saag, chicken curry cooked over a wood fire, potato curry and pickle – has resulted in a winning formula for a nation full of daal bhat-happy foodies. Take your time and let the flavors of the exotic west settle.

And no, you’re not hitting the bar after this. A Pokhara afternoon means great weather and

As viewed from the Peace Pagoda - the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre peak secerns Pokhara’s skyline.

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that means great views. Your next stop should be the World Peace Pagoda or the Shanti Stupa atop the Anandu Mountain. The fresh air and the tranquillity are a welcome change for most that get here. A city bus can drop you at Davis Falls from where you have to hike up a steep hill for about 35 minutes to reach the Peace Pagoda Stupa.

Don’t feel like hiking? Take a four-wheel drive or a motorbike on a winding road that meanders through Machhapuchhare viewpoint. The views are great but the road up there, not so much. The views and the peace up at the stupa are still worth your aching city-happy legs.

When you come back, enjoy a nice, leisurely meal at one of many eateries that line the Lake Side and move on to a bar to nurse a cold one. Get a good night’s sleep. However, if you do see a kinda-cutekinda-naughty-twenty-something eyeing you from across the bar, turn your watch back by an hour, forget your cheesy pick-up lines and start a smart but funny conversation. In vacation city, all bets are off.

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It’s cool, dark waters tempt many to dive off into the elusive, magical reflections of Mt. Machhapuchhare.

Kick back, Relax

Sleep in. What is a holiday if you can’t get enough sleep? In a single day in and around Pokhara, we cover most of the touristy things to do. The second day is about taking it easy and making some welldeserved time, to stop and smell the roses. If you do wake up, too excited to just laze around in bed then stroll off for a little early morning boating on Fewa Lake. If you’re lucky, the skies open up for some amazing views of the Himalayan range comprising peaks like Machhapuchhare (Fishtail) and the famous Annapurna peaks.

One of the largest lakes in Nepal, the Fewa covers an amazing 4.43 sq. km. The gorgeous lake, which lies at an altitude of 784 m (2,572 ft), is nestled quite literally, in the lap of the Annapurna range. With an average depth of about 8.6 m (28 ft), it’s cool, dark waters tempt many to dive off into the elusive, magical reflections of Mt. Machhapuchhare. Feeling religious?

The Barahi temple sits on a small island, spat in the middle of the lake, giving an illusion of a floating temple.

The waters of the lake are home to rich aquatic life with a considerable amount of commercial fishing performed here. Pokhara’s monsoon is quite notorious, putting the Fewa at risk of silting up due to heavy inflow of water. The water that flows out however is used for small hydro projects.

Fewa isn’t the only water body the area boasts of.

About 15 km outside of Pokhara lay the Begnaas and Rupa lakes – less people thus more serene. Divided by a forested hillock called Panchabhaiya Danda, the lakes offer the perfect natural retreat because of their relative seclusion. Boating and fishing are two major attractions on here.

So sail away, captain of your own boat, directing your little kingdom with the power of your muscles (or misdirected by strong currents!). What do we discover here? Letting go is a state of mind and on a raft, floating away, for a while, it does seem like you’re finally, away. Enjoy it while it lasts.

Taal Barahi Temple

Taal Barahi Temple, “Temple of goddess”, is the important feature of the Fewa Lake in Pokhara. The temple is situated at the island that remain on the middle of the lake. Most of the visitors come here to worship, whereas many are attracted by the peace and beauty of the temple and its surrounding.

Those who are depressed by the noise and crowd pollution of the city must visit the place to gain the ultimate peace and pleasure.

Boating is another feature of the lake. To prevent from the noise pollution and preserve the natural beauty of the lake, motor boat is denied. One can enjoy the local boat.

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Get off the boat, get some lunch and get a ride to Sarangkot from Baglung Bus Park. A half-hour hike gets you to the boarding point. It’s time to get some adrenaline rushing through you! If floating on the Fewa felt nice, floating above the Fewa takes the nice-ness up a hundred notches. Nothing presents a bigger picture to you like an aerial view of the place.

Enter paragliding in Pokhara.

Paragliding in Pokhara not only gets you airborne, but also allows you to fly like a bird. Chances are that you actually will fly with different types of birds including vultures, eagles and kites. The trained pilots here are some of the best at what they do and know the airspace very well.

Make sure you take along a good camera. With some extra time to enjoy a wide-angle view of the city, the

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Fewa Lake below and amazing sunsets too, you’ll want to capture the moment for fond memories.

The paragliding flight lasts for about 30-45 minutes, depending upon how windy it is and how long you want the flight to last. From up in the air, you have a colorful, unobstructed view of the valley - the vast lakes, monasteries, fields, hills and the snow capped mountain peaks. If you time it well, you might catch the sun setting behind the hill, bathing the entire valley in a golden hue. You can also vary your paragliding experience between a regular glide or one with crazy acrobatic surprises. Just let your pilot know how wild you want to go! I promise you this – once you land on the grassy banks of the Fewa, all you’ll want to do is to race up to Sarangkot and get your wings back.

People paraglide not only for the exhilaration and the sense of adventure, but to enjoy scenery and nature with a bird’s eye point of view.

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Fulbari Resort

Considering cozy eateries with delectable varieties and the upbeat bars and clubs, Pokhara combines natural charisma with subtle, understated comfort that seem to linger on forever.

For your last supper in Pokhara, hop over to The Lemon Tree - a classy establishment with cozy décor and friendly staff. End the meal with their chocolate brownies – a sweet way to end your sweet 48 hours.

Spend those remaining hours dancing away at the Amsterdam Club, a landmark on the Lake Side for hosting crazy parties. Unwind, let loose and have a good time. Go back to the Busy Bee for one last drink before you crash. Chances are you’ll spend the entire time planning your own epic trip back to Pokhara.

Recommended Restaurants in Pokhara Boomerang Restaurant & German Bakery Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 061-462978/461412 Pumpernickel Bakery & Restaurant Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 9846025630 Restaurant once upon a time Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 9856031881 Olive Café Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 061-462575 Maya Pub. Restaurant-Cocktail Bar Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 061-463372

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Pumpkins Restaurant & Shisha Bar Hallan Chok- Lakeside,Pokhara Tel.: 9806755378 Club Amsterdam Café Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal La Pizzeria Café & Bar Baidam Lakeside,Pokhara Tel.: 061-463321 Billy Bunter’s Restaurant & Bar Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 061-692732 Monsoon Bar Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Thik thak Lakeside,Pokhara Nepal Tel.: 061-464586

Pokhara Grande

Hotel Shangri-la

Recommended hotels in Pokhara FIVE star

OTHER HOTELS

the Fulbari resort casino - golf - spa Tel.: 061-432451, 430202

Hotel Meera Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-462031/463091

hotel trekkers inn Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-463244/462456

Pokhara grande Pardi, Pokhara Tel.: 061-460210

Hotel Grand Holiday Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-462967

Hotel Landmark Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-463096

Hotel shangrila Gharipatan, Pokhara, Nepal Tel: 977-61-462222 / 460224

HotelTrek o Tel Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-464996/463419

Mt. Kailash Resort Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-465703

Lake View Resort Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061-461477/463854

Hotel Barahi Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 061- 460617, 463526

hotel moonlight resort Hotel Kantipur Lake Side Pokhara, Nepal Lakeside, Pokhara Tel.: 00977-061-460286, Tel.: 061-465704/464608 464705, 464806

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People and Culture While the history of the valley goes back several centuries, the developed history of the city itself is less than a century old. This produces an interesting culture because many of the more rural and simple aspects of life in Pokhara have been preserved in a way which is not seen in places which developed gradually over time. However, as Pokhara owes its development mostly to tourism, the culture of the place sees a considerable amount of western world’s interest in the East.

As far as the people who are living in the area go, numerous different native groups call Pokhara home. The largest of these groups are the Gurung, Magar, and Newar communities. Tibetan refugees who sought asylum here after escaping prosecution in their homeland make up another significantly sized community here. While the Gurung community populates the hilly terrain around Pokhara, the city itself is home to many Newar families.

A Pokhariya family who migrated to Uttarkhand is

said to have established the city, according to historian B. D. Pant. Although there was a small community of people living here at that time, no information is available about them. Part of the problem with finding Pokhara’s recorded history is owed to the difficulty of accessing the valley back then as modern transportation was absent in Nepal. A recorded history is only present starting from the 20th century. Prior to the middle of the 20th century, the area was accessed either by getting on a mule or by walking for at least ten days.

The first road into the valley was introduced towards the end of the 1960’s which kick-started Pokhara’s modern history. Kathmandu was already teeming with drugloving, music-happy hippies.

It wasn’t long before they starting looking for another Shangri-la. In Pokhara, they found an un-spoilt, sparsely populated paradise, which they subsequently advertised and then proceeded to fill. This led the way for other tourists in the years that followed, laying down the seed for the now blossoming tourism sector here.

Fast facts on Pokhara

How to get there

ACCOMODATION

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Pokhara is located in central Nepal between 83.58’30” E to 84.0.’30” Longitude and 28.10’ N to 28.16’ N Latitude.

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Elevation ranges from 730 m to 1030 m above sea level.

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Pokhara has tropical mild temperature, which is neither too cold in winter nor very hot in summer. The Himalayas and surrounding green hills keep it moderate.

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Winter offers pleasant weather, ranging from October to December.

The temperature usually remains between 32°C in summers with a minimum of 6°C in winters.

Pokhara, is located 200KM west from the capital city, Kathmandu; which can be reached within half an hour flight or 5 to 6 hours drive from Kathmandu. There are number of domestic airlines that operate 30-40 regular flights to Pokhara in a daily basis, with increased number of flights in peak season. Other means of transportation includes tourist buses, cars, jeeps and vans of different choices are available for regular service to Pokhara from Kathmandu.

Pokhara is well linked to the border cities (with India) including Kakarvita, Biratnagar, Birgunj in the East and Bhairahawa, Nepalgunj and Mahendranagar to the West.

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Monsoon starts from early June and ends in early September. Pokhara receives the heaviest rainfall in Nepal.

Pokhara offers wide varieties of accommodation facilities suited for almost all types of travelers. Whether backpacker or business executives, Pokhara’s numerous hotels and lodges give everyone comfort only second to their own homes. The 5 Star Fulbari Resort & Spa is one of the biggest and most beautifully located hotels in South Asia while the unique island lodge, Fishtail still remains the favorite for the rich and famous. Pokhara has a few business and budget hotels such as Shangri-La Resort and Pokhara Grande for those seeking to mix business and pleasure. All types of accommodation such as deluxe, medium and general standards are available. There are about 500 tourists standard hotels to accommodate around 8000 visitors.

Reference:

Nepal Tourism Board www.welcomenepal.com

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hEALTHTIMES

Staying healthy while traveling this winter In one of the novels by the celebrated American author O. Henry, a homeless man in New York City describes his troubles in finding a warm and cozy place to sleep with the onset of winter. Winters are mild in many parts of South Asia but in the northern parts and especially in Nepal, winter packs quite a punch. Staying warm and finding cozy places while you travel of great importance.

Protecting from exposure to low temperatures:

Covering the head is especially important, as the blood vessels in the scalp (the tissue beneath the hair) cannot constrict leading to increased heat loss.

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In most dimensions, Nepal is quite small but in altitude, few can compete with it. The altitude variations within a short geographic area lead to large variations in temperature. Travelers within Nepal can traverse a number of climatic zones in a short period. A trekker describing his trek in a famous travel book describes starting off in the dead of winter at a high altitude area, descending into autumn and finally entering late spring as he continued his descent.

A major problem while traveling in winter is protecting from exposure to low temperatures. In Nepal, traveling in buses and vehicles especially during the evenings in the winter can be drafty and cold. Cover yourself well and protect your head from the cold. Woolen socks, a cap covering the ears and a water and windproof jacket or overcoat are helpful. Covering the head is especially important, as the blood vessels in the scalp (the tissue beneath the hair) cannot constrict leading to increased heat loss. As mentioned in previous articles, dressing in layers is important while trekking or traveling in the Himalayas. In Nepal, there is a huge difference between the maximum and minimum temperatures - often more than 20o C.

By Dr. Ravi Shankar Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur.

He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.

Common cold and influenza:

Upper respiratory tract infections are a major problem during winter. Exposure to cold or to wide temperature variations can lead to a common cold. The health information website Medline Plus (www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/) mentions that you can get a cold by touching your eyes or nose after you touch surfaces with cold germs. You can also inhale the germs. Symptoms usually begin 2 or 3 days after infection and last for 2 to 14 days. Washing your hands and staying away from people with a cold is a good way to avoid colds. Adults suffer from two to four colds in a year while children suffer from an average of six to eight colds a year according to the website of the American Lung Association. A number of remedies have been marked to remedy the common cold. Hard evidence for the effectiveness of most is lacking. Keeping yourself warm, taking adequate rest and drinking plenty of warm fluids is recommended.

A runny, blocked nose, a symptom of the common cold, is caused by a number of chemicals, the most important among them being histamine (literally tissue amine from hist meaning tissue). Histamine dilates blood vessels and makes them leaky. Medicines called antihistamines can reduce the symptoms but can cause sleepiness.

Influenza (flu) is also common during winter. The website, Web MD (www.webmd.com) postulates why influenza may be more common in winter. In cold temperatures, the virus forms a hard coating that helps it spread through the air. On entering the respiratory tract, the coating melts away facilitating viral infection. In winter, people are crowd-

ed together indoors and the virus finds it easier to spread from one infected person to another. The viruses causing influenza change the constituents of their coat every winter or more frequently by exchange of material among viruses. This leads to decreased resistance among people who have not been exposed to the new strain of the viruses causing epidemics and even pandemics (global epidemics). Vaccines are developed against the strain of the virus that is expected to be dominant in a particular season or year to offer a certain degree of protection. While traveling it may be a good idea to avoid crowded interiors and choose lodges that are well ventilated.

Dust, the bane of Kathmandu:

Winters are usually dry in Nepal with occasional rains brought about by western weather disturbances. The Kathmandu valley especially becomes extremely dusty in winters. The valley is suffering the effects of rapid deforestation that has removed the humus-rich, top soil, allowing rich soil to degenerate into flaky dust. This dust contains a number of disease causing organisms and is an irritant to the lungs. The dust found within the house contains different disease causing organisms and dust mites which are a major source of respiratory allergies. Larger dust particles are deposited in the nose and upper airway causing problems like congestion and swelling in these areas. The smaller particles get deposited in the smaller airways causing contraction and narrowing of these airways.

Fog and smog:

The Nepali winter envelops the lowlands of the Terai and Kathmandu with thick fog. The lakeside city of Pokhara however mysteriously remains fog free. With increasing levels of air pollution, smog (a combination of smoke and fog) is becoming a problem especially in the valley and larger Terai cities. Smog decreases visibility and creates a dark cloud over cities. In the 1950s and 1960s, many cities of the developed world suffered from smog. They have since then cleaned up their air substantially. Smog creates many harmful effects irritating the linings of the lungs and airways. People suffering from asthma have special problems with difficulty in breathing and tightness in the chest being prominent. The harmful effects are most prominent in children and the elderly.

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ing in Lobuche in the Everest region and a bath was an occasional luxury for us at Rs. 450 per shower. Skin diseases are a common problem in Nepal and winter aggravates these. Also due to infrequent change of clothes, parasitic skin diseases become common and get transmitted from one person to another due to close proximity in unhygienic conditions. In Nepal, a skin disease called scabies caused by a small itch mite is especially common and may become more severe in winter. Travelers may contract this infection. The treatment for this is taking a scrub bath to open up the burrows of the parasite in the skin and applying either benzyl benzoate or gamma benzyl hexachloride to the skin below the neck.

Other problems:

Depression may be more common in winters especially in countries near the polar circles.

Artificial light with a similar wave spectrum to sunlight is recommended. Vitamin D is formed in the skin by the action of sunlight on a precursor molecule. Such formations are reduced due to reduced sunlight and the prevalence of fog and smog. This leads to a deficiency that affects our bones. The cold winter air also has less water content which dries up the skin causing rough skin and chapping. The best treatment is to prevent evaporation of water from the skin. A layer of paraffin applied to the skin prevents evaporation of water and increases water content of the skin. For best results, apply the paraffin right after a bath while the skin is still moist. While traveling during winter remember to pack paraffin jelly and oil based lip balm.

Winter is a wonderful time in Nepal with warm sunlight bathing a large part of the day with great mountain views. The precautions mentioned above should ensure that you have a wonderful winter vacation here.

Larger dust particles are deposited in the nose and upper airway causing problems like congestion and swelling in these areas.

Hygiene and skin care:

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pottery alleys A walk through the

and courtyards of Thimi

Probably one of the oldest art forms, Bhaktapur is still a reserve of traditional pottery. Meandering its cobbled streets, the array of exhibited earthenware only samples the fine artistry passed on through generations.

Words Kanchan Burathoki / Photos Rocky Prajapati

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The yellow mini-buses on their way to Bhaktapur Durbar Square from Ratnapark take the old route, making a brief stop at old Thimi Chowk. We get off at the bus stop here and inquire about the pottery square of this ancient Newar city. A few locals direct us through one of the roads and as we wait to pass by the pottery square, we realize that there are no pottery squares as such in Thimi, the fourth largest city in Kathmandu Valley.

It isn’t however, to our disappointment.

Rather the entire north end of this town is a walk through alleys and courtyards of pottery, all of which branch off of the main

road. The latest harvest of rice grains and terracotta crafts greet us a few minutes into Chapacho – some still drying out in the morning sun, some ready to go. Broken pots lay on the roadside while colorful little artifacts hang from the windows of a house, signifying the observance of Jankhu - a ceremony performed first when an elderly reaches 77 years and seven months of age.

On one of the temple-steps lay rows of unfired clay pans and pots of all sizes. The pans are used for making rotis (bread) and the pots to brew jaad and raksi (traditional alcoholic drinks) after being fired. These belong to Tulasi Bhakta Prajapati, a local who greets

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us as we enter his courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard, a pile of recently fired pots stands amidst ashes. In a corner, along with heaps of clay and hay, is a rubber tire, filled with concrete. This is what has replaced traditional wooden wheels of potters in Thimi a convenient innovation to suit the times. The process of firing pottery, however, has not changed much with the art form going back to the 9th century AD. “Back then, specific occupations were allotted to people and the Prajapatis of the Newar community were chosen to make pottery items,” informs Chief Executive Officer of Bhaktapur Tourism Development CommitTIMES

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Vibrancy engulfs traditional Bhaktapur courtyards with women clad in ethnic attire, endless display of pottery left to dry and just the commotion of daily life.

It almost takes one’s breath away as the men throw the delicate terracotta flower pots shaped as turtles, elephants and more to stack them up in the hayfilled truck.

tee Basudev Lamichhane. He continues, “Although it was considered a low job, the rulers made sure that everyone had to use pots made by Prajapatis in festivities, religious ceremonies and even to make curd.” The Prajapati community still makes up the largest number of people involved in pottery.

Here in Bhaktapur, pottery is not just an occupation. It’s a tradition that has been passed on from generations to generation. Tulasi’s father, now an old man, sits on one of the pots and smiles, “My father taught me, he learnt it from his father and I taught my son.”

However, with education becoming a priority, many youth from the Prajapati community have opted to give up pottery for books.

On the other hand, other Newar groups such as Shresthas and Pradhans have entered into pottery, a trend perhaps owed to the decent commercial success of the craft.

We move on up the main road to find a huge truck taking up half of the roadway. We hear that it is on its way to Pokhara, another valley located to the west of Kathmandu. It almost takes one’s breath away as the men throw the delicate terracotta flower pots shaped as turtles, elephants and more to stack them up in the hay-filled truck.

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Around the corner, past a few temples, is a pleasant view of a courtyard bigger than the pottery square at Bhaktapur Durbar Square and it is abuzz with its own kind of activities.

Unlike the Durbar Square, there are no curio shops here and the crowds are mostly local residents going about their daily routines in the courtyard. This is where they spin their wheels, dry their terracotta and fire them.

Gray pots, spun from a mix of three kinds of soil – kalimati (black clay), pango and chiplo, is dried in the sun here for up to three days.

“Kalimati which is usually collected after the harvest of crops is the evidence of Kathmandu Valley once being a lake,” points out CEO Lamichhane. The clay is sticky, strong and flexible.

While Dil Krishna Prajapati dexterously spins out flowerpots on the rubber wheel, some men outside are busy preparing to fire their goods. There are no modern kilns as such around here and the firing is done out in the open, locally known as bhado phodne. These bhado phodne places are interspersed all over the courtyards and alleys. The ashes fly in the wind as motorcycles zoom across the courtyards.

Stacked between layers of hay and saw dust, the large terracotta goes at the bottom and

the lighter ones go on top. Covered up with hay and ash all around as insulation, small inlets at the bottom are used to start the fire, which will continue for the next three to four days. The pots are painted yellow before they are fired. The reddish hue on ready to go earthenware is achieved only after firing is complete.

A walk through the alleys and courtyards of Thimi is therefore, more of an understanding of the process of pottery, the labor that goes behind it, and the craft’s heritage.

As we observe men at work in Thimi, an old man walks towards us. “I’m 90 years old, take my picture,” he orders us, upon seeing our cameras. When we comply, he asks us for 20 rupees. Tourist-savvy Thimi locals make up for the absence of tireless pursuits of curio shop owners like the ones at Bhaktapur Durbar Square.

There are no entry fees for anyone to visit Thimi and to watch its pottery delights.

However, all foreigners need to to pay an entry fee at the Bhaktapur Durbar Square.

The pass remains valid until the Visa of the foreigner is valid.

The same mini-buses that stop at Thimi

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take you to the Durbar Square. A right at the entrance of the Square and a brief walk down a narrow alley leads directly to the Pottery Square of the Durbar Square. Most people don’t know that Bhaktapur actually has two pottery squares with the other, less popular one annexing off of Dattatraya Square. The proximity of the first one to the entrance has made it the popular one.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square and Thimi provide varied experiences in terms of the kind of earthenware that is made in these places. In Thimi, the focus of pottery remains on larger utility goods (alcohol brewing pots, flower pots and curd containers), as opposed to the numerous small decorative clay items (small houses, animals, intricate wind chimes, incense holders, creative oil lamps, piggy banks, candle stands, et all) that flank the shops of Bhaktapur’s Pottery Square.

While, most of Thimi’s earthenware is transported to cities outside of the valley, the Durbar Square’s pottery end up at various shops in the capital. The latter, smaller terracotta items are recent developments in terms of the craft’s evolution and are much easier to carry back home as souvenirs of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most people don’t know that Bhaktapur actually has two pottery squares with the other, less popular one annexing off of Dattatraya Square.

(The writer is a correspondent at Nepal Republic Media.)

Traditional potter with his fresh set of curd containers.

Work begins from early morning adding final touches to his pottery before kilning.

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Destinationspotlight

Mini Treks a

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Pokhara is the panaromic mecca of West Nepal. Nestled amidst breath- taking mountain ranges, embellished with pristine lakes and rivers, trekking along its exquisite terrains is possibly the best introduction to the valley.

Words Ravi Shankar / Photos Rocky Prajapati

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Old settlements are still intact in and around villages of Pokhara.

Modest mud houses with rusted tin roofs provide instant shelter for trekkers.

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kai Kawaguchi, a monk who visited Nepal in the late 1800s called Pokhara the most beautiful place on earth. Having spent nearly eight years in the delightful lakeside city, I think it is the most beautiful city in the country. Clean and still green, with the Seti River cutting a deep gorge through the center, delightful lakes (Fewa, Begnas and Rupa being the three major ones), spectacular views of the Annapurna Himals from a semitropical setting, efficient public transport and clean air; the city is a paradise! There are many delightful short hikes around the city. I now describe four daytrips around Pokhara.

Sarangkot- a delightful Himalayan viewpoint: Sarangkot (from Sarang meaning arms and kot meaning fort) was once the starting point for treks in the Annapurna region and is a dominant feature in the Pokhara skyline. We usually take the road that starts from Bindhyabasini mandir (temple) and slowly winds to the top. You can hire a taxi or take the local bus. The old trail is still usable and is a quicker way to get there although quite a bit steeper. With the construction of roads, trails slowly fall into disuse and ruin. I had seen this in Bandipur and Pulchowki. There are good views of the Institute of Engineering (IOE) campus at Lamachaur and of Deep Heights as you begin your climb. The hills are delightfully wooded. The Seti River winds through the center of Pokhara with Kahundada and its watch tower visible on the other side. Also visible is the sight of planes taking off from Pokhara Airport.

As you near the World Peace Pagoda, Lake Fewa suddenly comes into view down below. On a clear day, there are spectacular views of the Annapurna Himals to the north. The lodge verandah is a superb place for views of people paragliding off and flitting about in the air before landing on the shores of the Fewa, the multicolored gossamer fabrics of the glider, silhouetted beautifully against the blue sky. My good friend, Arjun (a pharmacist) and I stayed at the Annapurna and Sherpa Resort once, a delightful place to stay, at just a ten -minute walk from Sarangkot along the road to Naudanda.

The view tower at the top provides a delightful view

of the central Himalayas. You see a part of Dhaulagiri I, the rampart-like mountain which was one of the last to be climbed, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I (the first eight thousand-er to be climbed by Maurice Herzog in 1950), Macchapuchare (the Fish Tail) seen here as a pyramidal Matterhorn, the elephant shaped Annapurna III, Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, Lamjung Himal and Manasulu Himal. Annapurna - the goddess of plenty and one of the many incarnations of Hindu goddess Durga is a fitting name for this delightful mountain chain. From the top you can walk down to the shimmering lake, through paddy fields, village homes and forests as the lake steadily grows larger.

Pokhara’s brilliant peace pagoda offers spectacular views of the Annapurna range and the city.

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destinationSpotlight

The village of Maula with its popular Kali temple, is at the start of the flag stoned path to the hill fort of Kaskikot, the citadel of the kings of Kaski.

Naudanda to Khahare (lakeside): Naudanda is a large sprawling village on the Baglung highway and for a long time, it was an important trailhead for treks to the Annapurna region. We would often take our medical students from Manipal Medical College for community postings to the village. My friend, Praveen (an internal medicine specialist) and I once took an early morning bus to Naudanda from Baglung Bus Park.

The bus climbed steadily from Phedi giving spectacular views of the Annapurnas. We got off at Naudanda and walked towards the Fewa. Machapuchhuare’s true fish tail aspect is clearly viewable from here. The walk is along a ridge with Harpan khola (which eventually drains into the lake) on one side. On the other side is the Panchase hill with a shrine right at its top. The road here is broad but unpaved and with an infrequent bus service.

The village of Maula with its popular Kali temple, is at the start of the flag stoned path to the hill fort of Kaskikot, the citadel of the kings of Kaski. The kingdom fell to the Gorkhalis without a fight in 1781. The fort has amazing mountain views minus

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the crowds such as those at Sarangkot. The views had often made me fantasize about camping at Kaskikot on a cold winter morning and waking up with the Annapurnas glinting in the warm morning sun. Kasyap hill is another famous viewpoint where the sage Kasyap is supposed to have stayed and meditated. The walk continues below the Sarangkot viewpoint and then descends to the Fewa. On all our walks, we made it to the lakeside with its gastronomic delights, by two in the afternoon at the latest.

From lakeside to Pame and Thulokhet: Lakeside (Baidam) with its concentration of restaurants, hotels, shops and the Barahi temple is the favorite haunt of ‘turistas’ and Pokharelis with only some venturing further along to Khahare. What lies beyond the lakeside area intrigued me for a long time. Where does the second largest body of water in the country end? I finally found out.

The lake gradually narrows and eventually leads to Harpan khola. The path winds through the Korean restaurant right by the lake and the Three Sisters Lodge. The Korean restaurant has delightful huts

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destinationSpotlight

Few settlements characterize the trek upto Naudanda.

Lush fields and hills surround the settlements, in and around the valley.

The view of terraced fields below light up the walk up to the Peace pagoda.

Wool is dyed here in huge copper basins warmed over wood fires.

Trekkers can specify their own designs and have it woven within two weeks.

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right by the lake and serves lip-smackingly delicious Nepalese dal- bhaat. A number of restaurants and hotels have sprung up in this peaceful area recently.

On the right is a quaint lodge with fresh fish from the lake and superb views where I stayed at last year with my brother. The ‘Dhuna tapaari’ restaurant - famous among locals for fresh fish preparationsis nearby. The fried fish, fish cutlets and momo are delicious. Rice with fish curry is another favorite.

Sherpa roti, fried fish and fish curry is another specialty of the house. The road continues to the village of Pame; also famous for its fish. There are regular bus services to the village and beyond to Thulokhet (big field) where the road ends. From Thulokhet you can trek up to the shrine of Panchase.

To Tashi Phalikhel, the Tibetan refugee settlement and beyond: In the 1950s and 1960s, a number of Tibetan refugees crossed into Nepal. Seven refugee settlements were established to settle them. The settlement in Tashi Palikhel founded in 1962 is now home to over

Journeying all the way to peace pagoda, one gets to enjoy an elaborate view of both urban and rural Pokhara.

a thousand refugees. The settlement is also called Hyangja after the large village beyond it. The settlement has a monastery, community center, school and old age home. They also have a juice factory, carpet workshop, guesthouse, electrical shop, motorcycle repair shop, restaurants, and numerous retail outlets. Hyangja was one of our favorite Saturday hikes. From this sprawling village you can go to Bedabari and the fish point and continue to the villages of Ghachok and Lhachok. The carpet factory in Tashi Palikhel was started in 1964. Wool is dyed here in huge copper basins warmed over wood fires.

Trekkers can specify their own designs and have it woven within two weeks. The settlement also has a facility which makes Rasilo juice - made from locally sourced fruit. Also in the area is a restaurant and a guesthouse - The Tibetan Yak - which serves pretty good Tibetan food.

I have selected four from the nearly limitless possibilities for day treks possible around Pokhara. A huge section of the delights of this beautiful lakeside city is truly in its surrounding countryside. Ekai Kawaguchi was certainly right about Pokhara being one of the most beautiful places on earth.

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HOTEL&CASINO

G rand H otel I

With more than a decade of its establishment, the quaint Hotel is indeed Grand when it comes to standardized services and excellent hospitality.

n Tahachal, Kathmandu Nepal once you get off the main streets and enter into a smaller quieter road, you see an unassuming cream and red building towering over you. It is only once you see the gilt letters at the entrance declaring its glorious name and once you enter the great glass doors of the building ushered in by smartly saluting doormen that you begin to comprehend the magnificence that is the Grand Hotel.

The Grand Hotel has continued to provide the best of service since 1999, and has main-

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tained international standards of quality and hospitality.

The ambience of the Hotel is classy yet unpretentious, and very comfortable. Enter through the big glass doors and you are greeted with a large, airy lobby with a great chandelier overhead and squeaky clean marble floors that give off vibes of class and grandeur. Walk down simplistic colorful mosaic patterns on the marble floors beneath twinkling little lights and past numerous paintings and vases brimming with flowers while the hotel staff busy in their work will still manage to smile warmly at you as you pass by.

Behind a huge glass pane occupying an entire corner of the lobby stands an aesthetically wonderful water display made of carefully placed slabs of stone wherein water serenely gushes down the stones. The effect of the manmade waterfall ‘Jharna’ is mesmerizing. The reception at one side of the lobby is friendly and helpful and very welcoming and might urge you to be seated and make yourself comfortable at the sofas that line the glass display. The Jharna Tea Lounge is the perfect place to order tea or coffee and take dainty bites from rich pastries or even use Wi-Fi with the waterfall in the backdrop.

Fancy a (delicious) bite to eat? The Grand Hotel boasts the best of delicious cuisine and the best of dining services in its elegant Rendezvous Coffee Shop and Indian-themed Maharaja Restaurant. The food here is famous for its scrumptiousness and people are known to come from other establishments just to dine here. The capacious Rendezvous Coffee Shop gives an atmosphere of casual comfort with its warm sunlight flooding in through its huge windows. Abstract paintings line the walls and small quaint green and mahogany tables dotting the marbled floor. Room guests and visitors alike can relish in continental, far-eastern and Chinese delicacies served here at breakfast, lunch or dinner. Then there is the famed roof top Maharaja Restaurant on the 8th floor

with its traditional woodwork and royal red and black and gold décor that serves the best Indian food for miles around. The walls are lined with traditional paintings depicting gods and ancient Indian courts and to add to the atmosphere, the restaurant also features live Ghazal performances every evening (except Tuesdays). The best part: you can see a panoramic view of the city and excellent views of the mountains from each window of the restaurant. And to cap it all, there’s the ultra-classy Aromates Bar for those enjoyable evenings with beverage and friends!

Grand Hotel doesn’t just offer gastronomic pleasure for its guests. It has a lot to offer in terms of recreation: a large swimming pool to splash about in, and a newly renovated and expanded health center – the Himalayan Healers Spa Boutiques - complete with a beauty salon, Jacuzzis, saunas, singles and couples massages, Reiki treatments, you name it. The hotel even plans to offer special packages including spa services for its guests in the near future. And if you want to have a bit of fun full of thrills and stakes and money, Casino Nepal is right nearby! Besides these, the hotel also provides excellent banquet facilities.The Diamond hall is spacious, immaculately clean, brightly lit and elegant, and can accommodate 150 people theater style, and similarly the Golden Ballroom can fit 75 people. The versatility of the halls cannot

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The aesthetically wonderful water display over the stone slabs behind the huge glass pane amuse ever guest coming up in the grand lobby of the hotel.

Fancy a (delicious) bite to eat? The Grand Hotel boasts the best of delicious cuisine and the best of dining services in its elegant Rendezvous Coffee Shop and Indian-themed Maharaja Restaurant.

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HOTEL&CASINO

(Counter Clockwise) • The grand welcome desk of the hotel itself signifies the warm hospitality, simplicity and elegance of the place.

• The well furnished and equipped room at the hotel warmly welcomes the guests assuring the comfort of the guest at first place.

• The marble bathrooms with set basic toiletries mark the high hygiene and convenience of the hotel.

• The swimming pool within the premise of the hotel draw in anyone to splash about it.

• Satisfying the gastronomical needs of its varied guests, Grand serves Indian, continental and far eastern delicacies in the restaurant.

But what sets it apart is its hospitality and high quality service. No effort is spared to make sure that hotel guests not only have a comfortable stay, but a memorable one.

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be underestimated: any number of conferences, seminars, workshops, parties, concerts can be and are held here. It’s no wonder Grand Hotel has a lot of businessmen clientele; besides these halls so convenient for NGOs and INGOs to hold large scale meetings in, there is also a small conference room that can accommodate 15 people, and a fullfledged Business Center.

The best – and the most essential, of course – part of the hotel are the rooms. Grand Hotel has a total of 91 rooms to offer. There are seven suites and 84 deluxe rooms, 63 of which have twin beds and 21 have king-size beds. All the rooms have been recently renovated. They are quaint and comfortable, well-lit with a sort of casual, welcoming atmosphere. Sunlight streams in through the huge windows upon elegant wicker chairs and lush carpets. The rooms are well furnished and well equipped; mini bars, television, room service, even a tea/coffee maker, and hairdryers in addition to the basic toiletries in the marble bathrooms. The hotel has also been thoughtful enough to provide safety deposit boxes in each room for those important possessions and documents. Grand Hotel is very family-friendly; it has interconnecting rooms for families, doctor on call, and even has babysitters to look after the children. The seventh floor of the hotel has also been designated the non-smoking floor.

Grand Hotel is like any other hotel in the fact that it has all the features to make the guests’ stay at the hotel comfortable and convenient. It is peace-

ful, as it is considerably far from the main streets, and it offers good food and good rooms, and many recreational choices. It caters to both the vacationing families and the people on business, and it offers reasonable prices that can match everyone’s budgets, and isn’t as pricy as its name would suggest. But what sets it apart is its hospitality and high quality service. No effort is spared to make sure that hotel guests not only have a comfortable stay, but a memorable one. In a rare opportunity to meet with the authorities of Grand Hotel, Travel Times talked with General Manager Mr. G. P. Aryal, and Sales Manager Phurba Sherpa, who both emphasized the importance of hospitality in Grand Hotel.

“Our main objective is to give better quality, better service and standard to the customer. Hospitality is crucial,” said Mr. Aryal, who has dedicated 29 years in the hospitality industry, “Right now, everybody is gearing up for Nepal Tourism Year 2011, and we are also renovating the hotel and offering new packages like everyone else. But I think we have an edge over others by the fact that we are focusing more on training our staff to be competent, and more importantly, friendly and helpful.

Whatever attractions a hotel may be offering, if the service is bad, or God forbid, rude, it has failed.”

“We at Grand Hotel believe in customer satisfaction,” added Mr. Sherpa, “Taking care of even the smallest need of guests is our pleasure. After all, if you take care of the small stuff, everything works out fine in the end.”

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GOODFOOD

Gastronomic Adventures on Kathmandu Streets

Exploring Nepal’s Street Food Culture Words Leah Olson / Photos Rocky Prajapati

We would start with no expectations, but with one mission: try anything and everything edible we passed on the street.

“

T

he evening street food scene is so much better,” says Pawan, as we wind through the crowded lanes lined with fruit vendors. “That’s when people get off work, meet their friends for a drink and then go to the streets for a snack.”

It’s mid-afternoon at Lagankhel bus park in Patan and, although Pawan says this isn’t the ideal time to get Kathmandu’s best street eats, the food carts and outdoor stalls are swarmed with snacking customers. Behind one stall, a wok full of boiling oil is slowly browning triangular samosas. Across the lane, two girls laugh as they crouch on the cement with paper cones brimming full of freshly made Chatpatee and next to me, a woman eats sliced fruit generously sprinkled with salt and spices.

“Over there!” says Pawan, as he points to a geda gudi (pulses) cart, which offers a variety of toasted beans and corn kernels. “Let’s go try it.”

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On a quest to understand street food culture in Kathmandu, I’ve commissioned 24-year-old Pawan Lama to take me on a day-long gastronomic adventure. Pawan, originally from Namo Buddha, has been working as a guide for six years and he considers himself an expert on Nepali culture, heritage and food. Pawan and I would begin at Patan Durbar Square and slowly eat our way through the surrounding streets and alleys in an attempt to understand the fundamentals of street food in Nepal. We would start with no expectations, but with one mission: try anything and everything edible we passed on the street.

Compared with other countries in Asia, like Thailand and Singapore, street food in Nepal is not yet as diverse or sophisticated, for it is a relatively new market in the Kathmandu Valley. According to Pawan, Kathmandu’s street food culture started gaining steam only nine or ten years ago.

“Street food is still new here,” Pawan explains. “People

•

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watched movies and TV and learnt about street food culture from that. Then they copied it and started their own businesses.”

Street food and the vendors who sell it are often a reflection of the unique ethnic makeup of a city as well as the regional influences that add intresting flavors to local cuisines. This becomes apparent after spending the day with street vendors in Kathmandu and it seems that the heaviest regional influence on Nepal’s street food scene comes from India.

“At first Nepali people felt shy to sell street food and to do this kind of business,” says Pawan. “Initially, the market was mostly dominated by Indians, but then Nepalis started getting into the business too.” Pawan and I begin our food tour, walking slowly and deliberately with hawk eyes, looking and smelling for anything that we could taste. After less than 30 seconds,

Chatpat Ingredients:

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1 cup of puffed rice 1 tablespoon soaked chickpeas 1 tablespoon roasted peanuts 1 tablespoon roasted soybeans 1 package dried and spiced snack noodles (optional) 1 green chili 1 teaspoon chili powder teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon masala spices 1 tablespoon oil

we come across a young woman named Sanju Tamrakar who is selling fried snacks. On newspaper-lined trays are stacks of samosas, aloo chop and jeri. According to Tamrakar, locals enjoy the fried sweets, which are mostly flour and sugar-based, for breakfast and during festivals like Father’s Day and Mother’s Day. Tamrakar plucks out a coiled jeri from the stack and hands it to me. A jeri is made from a viscous dough of flour, ghee and water and sometimes saffron and cardamom for flavor. The semi liquid dough is packed into small plastic packets with holes to make circular, pretzel-like shapes into a vat of boiling oil until brown.

The crisp coils are then soaked in a bowl of sugar syrup until fully saturated. Tamrakar’s jeri is perfectly crisp on the outside. It is sweet, but not overpoweringly so, as a small burst of syrup comes along with each bite.

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Pani puri, a combination of crisp bread filled with spiced water, is a top seller among street foods. (Top) Immigrant worker from India with his chana chatpate cart. (Bottom)

Street food and the vendors who sell it are often a reflection of the unique ethnic makeup of a city as well as the regional influences that add international flavor to local cuisines.

“In Nepal we use these kinds of sweets for ceremonial

• • • •

juice of 1/2 a lemon 1 small, boiled and skinned potato 1 small raw onion 1/2 cup special tomato sauce

Instructions:

Mix puffed rice, chickpeas, peanuts and snack noodles in a bowl. Slice green chili and add with chili powder, salt and spices. Add several drops of oil and the juice of 1/2 a lemon. Cut boiled potato and onion into small bits and add. Stir mixture together with 1/2 cup of the tomato sauce until everything is coated. Serve as a snack in a paper cone.

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GOODFOOD

After a bus clears our path, a line of street carts comes into view selling the ubiquitous pani puri. ‘Pani’ means water in Nepali and ‘puri’ means roti or fried bread, which gives an accurate image of the crunchy snack; it is a spiced-water infused, hollow fried bread stuffed with potato.

Each pani puri cart is running a bustling business, but one in particular, owned by Shatrudhan Mahato from Motihari, India, is especially busy. Mahato dips his hand into a glass box full of the fried puri balls. He punches a hole in the top of the puri with his thumb, stuffs in a spoonful of aloo, or potato, and then dips the whole thing into a bucket of red-tinted water.

The spiced water, or pani, is the key ingredient to the bite-sized snack with with red chili powder, white salt, brown salt, lemon juice and masala spices for that unique flavor. Mahato transfers the stuffed and water-saturated ball onto a small metal plate and hands it to a customer, who places the entire pani puri into his mouth and finishes it in one bite.

Freshly prepared vegetarian and non-vegetarian snacks on display in the streets.

“People move around the world, copy the food and then come back here and adapt it.”

purposes too,” Pawan explains adding, “Like when we have a ceremony for Lord Ganesh, we offer sweets because Ganesh loves sweets.”

Pawan and I continue down the street and soon see a teenage boy doing a brisk business selling cold drinks.

We stop and watch as the vendor, a somber 18-yearold named Buddha, expertly mixes lime sodas. Pawan says the drink is simply referred to as amilo, a salty and sour carbonated beverage that is a local favorite when the weather heats up.

Buddha grabs one of the clear glass bottles on his cart and pops the marble that seals the top. He slices a lemon, squeezes the juice into the bottom of a tall glass and pours in the clear soda water. After a quick mix, he adds a spoonful of brown salt, which gives the beverage a distinctive sulphuric taste. Buddha says the sour and salty amilo is his most popular beverage, but he also sells sugary orange sodas for those with a sweet tooth.

“We learn a lot about street food from other places,” says Pawan, as we continue down the street. “People will move out of Nepal to other countries, then come back and bring a little bit of that culture here. They move around the world, copy the food and then come back here and adapt it.”

Pawan and I are soon in the midst of the cacophony at the bus park. Vehicles chug by, dropping off and picking up passengers, while the adolescent bus attendants lean out the open doors, screaming out the final destination soon their routes.

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One customer, Bishwas Rai, stands in front of the cart, stuffing himself until he’s full. Snackers are sure to leave satisfied, but without breaking the bank. The price of a half-plate of pani puri (three pieces) is five rupees and a full-plate (six pieces) is ten rupees. “I eat street food at least once a day and it’s always pani puri,” Rai says, as his toddler daughter, who seems to have inherited Rai’s affinity for the snack, munches on a plain puri ball. Mahato, the cart owner, as well as many other street vendors we meet on our gastronomic journey come from India. Pawan says the high percentage of international street vendors generally exemplifies a broader mindset of many Indian immigrants in Nepal. “Many Indian people come to Nepal and want independent work,” explains Pawan. “They don’t want to work in factories or under anyone else, so they come here and start their own businesses.

These businesses are small, but they are their own.”

Next to Mahato’s pani puri stall, a slight, amicable woman named Nirmala Dahal stands behind a geda gudi cart. The cart, which is attached to a bicycle, is divided into sections that are brimming full of geda gudi (pulses) like roasted peanuts, toasted corn kernels, popcorn, soy beans, chana, kerau and bakula. The most popular item Dahal sells is surely the chatphate - a snack mix of geda gudi, spices and puffed rice. On this food tour, I’ve noticed chatphate stalls everywhere; groups of school girls eating it while waiting for the bus, small children snacking on it under a tree and even businessmen enjoying it on their lunch break.

Chatpate seems to be a local favorite so I’m eager to try the spiced mix for myself. Dahal begins by putting a scoop of puffed rice into a container and then adds soaked chickpeas, peanuts, soybeans and a packet of spiced and dried snack noodles. With a paring knife,

she slices in one green chili, a boiled and skinned potato and one small raw onion. Then go in chili flakes, salt, masala spices, lemon juice, oil and a red “tomato sauce,” which is actually a homemade concoction of tomatoes, lapsi and lemon juice. Everything is mixed, poured into a paper cone and served with a small cardboard cutout of an old Surya cigarette pack, which is to be used as a scoop.

Dahal’s Chatpate is a perfect blend of spice and tang. The texture is multilayered, with the crunchiness of the peanuts and soybeans balanced by the soft potatoes and onions. Pawan and I share the delectable mix, which costs 15 rupees, and talk with other customers. Barsha Tamang, a young woman wearing dark eye makeup, stands next to us, also eating a cone filled with Dahal’s Chatpate. “I love it because of the spicy and sour flavors,” Tamang says after eating a scoop. “But, my favorite street food depends on my mood on that day.”

Pawan and I continue to meander down the energetic lanes. We meet Maila, a surly man smoking a cigarette selling Shree Ganesh ice-cream from a rusty cart. In the midst of the smog of the bus park, a woman named Parvati Pandey waves us down to try her kulfi, which is a South Asian version of Maila’s plain ice-cream. The frozen, yellow kulfi is served on a toothpick and has a surprising spiced flavor.

Pandey’s ingredients for her kulfi are milk, sugar, coconut, cashew nut and chokoda, the last two of which are found at ayurvedic shops in Kathmandu.

As we make our way around the bus park talking to every

food vendor who will engage us, Nepal’s street food culture reveals itself as a flourishing market that is still gaining speed. The snacks available are not hugely diverse, but the people who offer them are. The vendors are from all over the region and each of them seems to bring their own unique spin on the food, often influenced by the places they call home. Around every turn and behind every bus is another cart or enterprising vendor selling food from a basket. There is a woman vending sliced fruit including pineapple, guava and watermelon topped with salt and red chili powder. Later I see a young girl dolling out piro kakro, large cucumber slices sprinkled with salt and spread with a green chili paste.

To finish off our street food tour we make our way to a paan seller. Paan, a mix of herbs, spices and candied fruit wrapped in a betel leaf can be had sweet or with tobacco and is often chewed after a meal as a digestive aid. I order one sweet paan and the Indian vendor expertly sprinkles, dabs and shakes in a smattering of ingredients. After today’s food adventures, which have plied my palate with sweet, salty, spicy, fresh and fried food, the wrapped leaf packet is a welcome end to the eating marathon.

As I slowly chew my paan. Pawan and I retrace our steps and ponder what’s in store for street food in Kathmandu.

“I think the future of this business is good. It wasn’t so big a few years ago, but now it’s everywhere - Patan, Bhaktapur, Boudha, Swayambhunath...,” he says. “The food here is just so tasty, even if you eat it all the time, you’ll never get bored.”

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Kulfi

Ingredients:

• 1/3 gallon whole milk • 1/4 cup sugar • 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom seeds • 1/4 cup pistachios • 1/4 cup blanched, chopped pistachios

Instructions:

Bring milk to a boil and stir for 2-3 minutes. Reduce to low heat and simmer until liquid is reduced by at least 75% until you have 2 cups of condensed milk.

Mix in sugar, ground cardamom and pistachios until the sugar is dissolved.Yhe mixture turns into a pudding (5-7 minutes). Transfer mixture into popsicle molds and freeze until solid (approx. four hours).

Street food makes good earning for unemployed youngsters in Kathmandu. A lad serving steaming (momos) italics, one of the most popular delicacy in Nepal.

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Thik Thak Restaurant One of the finest restaurants in Pokhara

Do not judge a book by its cover - this line sounds perfect for the Thik Thak restaurant located at the Lake Side in Pokhara. The Thik Thak restaurant as its name says is an average restaurant but once you go there, you can definitely say it stands high above what its name suggests. With its impeccable interiors and unique dishes, the restaurant is an eccentric fusion of comfort and fun presented in a modern style.

The restaurant is bright and airy, with an elegant, traditional design. The cafĂŠ in the ground floor with its coffee bar has a great selection on its menu for breakfast as well as lunch. The beautifully set tables and the bamboo ingot on the walls give the area a comfy and warm look. With its lounge area and dining space, the room in the first floor feels no less than a first-rate restaurant. The traditional oil painted brick walls and artistic pillars and windows shows the inclination towards culture in the modern room. The room

has a conventionally decked out elegant bar serving world class liquors to the side of the cozy lounge. The fireplace is a good spot to cuddle with a loved one as you rejuvenate in a chilly winter evening.

The main attraction at Thik Thak however, is their unique menu. They have a special menu called the clay pot which is literally cooked in the clay pot and served in the same. If you are someone who would enjoy this, then do not forgot to try on another craze at the restaurant. Choose a live fish from the aquarium and ask to get it ready for your dinner. Besides these, the restaurant serves other regular cuisines too, such as Continental and Nepali dishes.

With 180 seats (including at the bar and dining counters), warm hospitality and superb ambience, the restaurant definitely deserves a visit if you happen to be in Pokhara.

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Nepali Café De Patan Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 4228833 D’ Square Café Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 5545056 samaya baji

Bhoe Chhen Newari Restaurant & Bar Basantarpur Tel: 2331028 Dhokaima Café Patan Dhoka Tel: 5522113

sizzler

Baithak BhabarMahal Revisited Tel: 4267346

Lobsters’ Sherpa Mall, Durbar Marg Tel: 4231323, 4231437

Café Du Temple Patan Dhoka Square Tel: 5527127

Bhumi Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Tel: 4412193 The Factory Restaurant & Bar Thamel, Tel: 4701185, 4701187

layeku Restaurant Bhaktapur Tel. 4781104

Bronco billy Harihar Bhawan, Tel. 5526212 Café Cheeno Patan, Tel. 01 2210423

CHinese/ Japanese

VESPER CAFE Pulchowk, Lalitpur, Tel: 5548179

The Ghangri Café Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5528703

Jatra Thamel, Tel: 4700043

Rice and Bowl Tripureshwor Tel: 4251678

Crumbed Prawn

lakhey restaurant and bar Durbarmarg, Ktm., Tel.: 4256606 MOODS Studio lounge Bluebird Mall, Tripureshwor Tel. : 4215740

Mandarin Palace Babar Mahal Revisited Tel: 4212675

Beijing Roast Duck Jawalakhel, Patan Tel: 5547453

Dan Ran Japanese Pulchowk Tel: 5521027

Chopstix Kumaripati, Patan Tel: 5551118

TIAN rui Chinese Thapathali Tel.: 4243078

Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur, Tel.: 01-6914930 BUZZ Baluwatar, Ktm., Tel.: 4429903

Indian Dhaba Restautant & Bar Thapathali, Tel; 4100510

italian/ continental

Tehzeeb Restaurant Durbar Marg, Tel: 4233037

Tel: 4250210 Courtyard Restaurant Kamaladi Tel: 4253056

Road House Café Thamel Tel: 4426168, 5521755 Pizza Xpress Lazimpat Tel: 2161212 Fire and Ice Thamel

green Olive Restaurant & sisha bar Chhetrapati, Ktm. Tel. : 4212730 La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel. : 4700612 Rum Doodle Thamel Tel.: 4701107

chapter 9, Jhamsikhel, Tel.: 5525979 Ghar-e-kabab Durbarmarg, Tel.: 4221711

Bourbon Room Narayhitimarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4441703 PIZZA

Bawarchi The restro-bar Lazimpat, Tel. 2150050

CAFE Delicatessen Centre Café Durbar Marg, Tel: 4221331 Imago Del Café Gallery Nag Pokhari, Tel: 442464 Ezer Book Café Sanepa, Tel: 5546578 Himalayan Java Thamel, Tel: 4253056

star restaurants Soaltee Crowne Plaza Soaltee Mode, Ktm. Tel. 4273999 Kakori Speciality: Indian

Annapurna del’ China Garden Speciality: Chinese Cuisine hotel Durbarmarg, Ktm Radission Tel. 4221711 Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4411818

Alfresco Speciality: Italian

The Olive Garden Speciality: Italian

Garden Terrace Speciality: Café

The Corner Bar Speciality: Bar

Rodi Bar Speciality: Bar

TFC Speciality: Continental

The Coffee Shop speciality. Café Ghar-E- Kabab speciality. Indian Cuisine Arniko Room speciality. Chinese Cuisine

Hyatt Regency Boudha,Ktm Tel. 4491234 Rox Restaurant Speciality: Multi Shangri-la Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4412999 Sambala Garden Speciality: Café Lost Horizon Bar Speciality: Bar

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adventureintro

Highways The

Himalayan

Journey to Lo-Mustang on two wheels

DIRT BIKING: A new face in an arena of Nepalese adventure sports initiated by Yeti Travels teamed up by few real daredevils.

Words Vivek Basnyat | Amy Sellmyer

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Photos Samir Jung Thapa

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The biker’s rest stop at Marpha.

(From L to R: Dendup Wangchuck, Bikash Thapa, a tourist, Lokesh Jung Rana, mechanic, Vivek Basnyat, Alok SJB Rana, Sarin Pratap Malla, Suraj Bhattachan, a tourist, Bikash Bikram Shah, Sanjay Ryamajhi)

Mustang

Deserted and discreet - the kind of desolation that many travelers long for. A hiatus from the usual verdure, commotion and coordination, Lo Mustang is anything but quaint, and best left in its crudity.

Its rugged, spectacular desert landscape is simply awesome! Lo Mustang represents a untamed and outlandish face of nature - a rarity in a rapidly evolving, modern world, on that is majestic in its brusqueness and magnetic in appeal.

Nestled in the lap of the Himalayas, mere mention of the

place, fuels a spirit of adventure.

Strangely, it evokes and likewise satiates that wanderlust in travelers, who once they reach there, are lost in the intensity of the place and bedazzled by the sheer scale of everything there.

The Journey to Lo-Mustang takes you through majestic landscapes on an epic, ethnic and cultural

journey. When you’re traveling by motorbike - unlike cycling, horse riding or hiking - one gets to see large swathes of Lo-Mustang in a relatively short period of time. The trail directly exposes to some rough terrain and weather conditions, leading you into locations populated sparsely by indigenous communities, locations that were once once

reachable only on foot. Travelling through the rocky trails of the Lo Mustang region is a truly exhilarating experience; one that will allow you to appreciate the beauty and variety of the landscape and a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

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adventureintro

Mustang has always held a mystical appeal - as one of the few places left untouched by the leveling hands of modernization.

The desert landscapes of the Himalayan rain shadow, Lo Mustang - stands in stark contrast to the concrete jungle of the city and the forest-insulated villages of the hills of Nepal, where people native to the area have found ways to adapt and thrive even in the harshest conditions.

But with the push and pull of work and daily life, managing to go on a trip that required an excessive commitment of both time and money - neither of which I have much in excess, Mustang felt as if it were destined to remain a place I would read about only in books. , This truth had almost settled in me, when out of the blue, an opportunity presented itself to get to Lo Mustang – in just six days, riding in the back of a trail bike. The ride started from the capital, Kathmandu and headed west to another valley city, Pokhara. This ride itself is quite picturesque with plenty of varied landscape to keep you company along the way. Once there, the entire gang of seven bikers, including those riding pillion and the support team that accompanies the team, began to prepare for next week’s ride. After

stocking petrol tanks, they prepared for last minute mechanical tune-ups, and massages for the riders, in anticipation of the grueling terrain on the rough jeep tracks up to Mustang.

Along the winding road to Kalopani, we stopped to take in the power and majesty of one of Asia’s longest waterfalls, flowing into the world’s deepest gorge. Back on the trail, those in it for the speed and excitement of the ride pulled ahead, leaving the rest to decide their own pace and enjoy the scenery. Along the way, a sense of camaraderie, pulled everyone back together - reminding us that we were not alone as we approached the rest of the gang waiting ahead.

In the lap of the Thoranga peak, arid landscapes pave way for a great biking experience, above Kagbeni. .

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Classic Toyota Corolla taxi in Mustang area

Near the Boksi Khola, Samir, one of the team members, in full power crossing the river

The thick greenery faded into a barren gray and the winds picked up as we approached the quiet hamlet of Marpha.

In Kalopani, we woke up to warm cups of tea in the shadow of one of the world’s highest peaks. After a quick breakfast, our convoy departed for the day’s ride. Shortly after leaving Kalopani, the riverbeds began to dry up into threads of water - a tempting obstacle for the adventurous motorcycle drivers - which later opened up as we witnessed the dramatic shift in scenery. The thick greenery faded into a barren gray and the winds picked up as we approached the quiet hamlet of Marpha. With our destination of Jomson less than an hour’s ride ahead, we were given time to explore the village, sample the locale’s famous brandy and relax in the warmth of the winter sun.

From Jomson, the next day onwards, we took

a trip to the sacred temple of Muktinath. After passing a number of trekkers and exhausted yet triumphant after the early morning climb over the Thorang-la pass, a part of me longed for that sense of accomplishment. Climbing above the temple, looking out onto the seemingly endless waves of barren hills and peaks, I reminded myself of the amazing journey I had just made.

After speeding past trekkers dragging their feet as they carried heavy loads and watching planes zoom high above the route’s diverse landscape, it became clear how ideal our mode of transportation was for truly connecting with the landscape. On bikes, you are in complete control of your trip - no cloudy weather to delay your

A utility vehicle of the support unit, accompanying the group. photo

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adventureintro

On bikes, you are in complete control of your trip - no cloudy weather to delay your flight, no roof or door to block your view.

flight, no roof or door to block your view. It is just you and the road. With the speed, it’s up to you to decide where and when to take time to relax and embrace the breathtaking surroundings, free of worry about slowing down or taking an extra hour to simply take in the landscape. Surrounded by like-minded friends, you have the freedom to decide how to experience the place on your own terms. Returning to Tatopani, we took advantage 1.

Refueling @ Kalopani.

2.

Any obstacle is taken under control by the operators

3.

Bikers ready to head home, photographed on the last day of the trip. From L to R: Lokesh Jung Rana, Bikash Bikram Shah, Sarin Pratap Malla, Samir Jung Thapa, Vivek Basnyat, unknown tourist, unknown tourist, Sanjay Ryamajhi, Bikash Thapa, Dendup Wangchuck

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With the speed, it’s up to you to decide where and when to take time to relax and embrace the breathtaking surroundings.

of the hot springs we passed up on the first half of our journey. Under the light of the stars, the hot mineral water provided a perfect tonic to reinvigorate the riders’ tired bodies and prepared us to return to our daily lives.

The next day as the rough trail ended and we hit black topped roads, our speed escalated. When I saw the look of excitement on the faces of the riders, I realized that the only thing that could have made this trip any better was if I was riding a bike myself.

4.

A local shop in the Muktinath area.

5.

Rooms of Namaste lodge @ Kalopani.

Accomodations is at local lodges - the tour’s initiative to support local entrepreneurs.

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adventureintro

The following are simple, easy-to-check items that anyone who rides should be able to identify.

Tires and wheels Since these are where you and the road meet, they’re probably the most important to look over. A problem can affect handling— sometimes severely. Are your rims free of dings? Are your spokes tight and straight?

Check pressures in both tires. Since most manufacturers specify pressures for cold tires, this is the only accurate way to check them, as they heat up quickly on the road, raising the pressure. Consult your owner’s manual for the proper pressures for your particular bike.

While you’re down there checking the tires, make sure you’ve got plenty of tread. You should have more than 1/16 of an inch.

Remove foreign objects that may have lodged in the treads, and make sure there aren’t any cuts on the tire. A minor abrasion is nothing to be worried about, but if it’s a deep scratch, you might want to have it checked.

not equipped with a kick start. Last but not least, don’t forget to check your horn.

Oil and fuel Running out of gas is a real buzz kill, but since many motorcycles don’t have gas gauges, it’s a very real possibility. Check the gas level in the tank, and be sure your fuel switch isn’t on “reserve,” which could leave you with a nasty surprise if you roll to a stop thinking you’ve still got fuel in reserve. And don’t forget to reset the trip meter every time you fill up.

Running out of fuel can be inconvenient, but running out of oil can have devastating consequences not to mention the financial implications of a damaged engine. Even some new bikes burn a quart of oil between changes, so check it before every ride.

Suspension Controls and cables A snapped throttle or clutch cable can leave you on the side of the road. Operate anything connected to a cable and make sure that levers and cables feel smooth and don’t bind.

Apply the front brake and push the bike forward. The brake should feel firm, and the front wheel should not move. Check the rear brake in the same fashion.

Battery & Lights Seeing and being seen are two great ways to avoid unwanted incidents on the road, so making sure your lights work is key. Start by turning on your ignition. Are the headlight’s high beam and low beam working? Does the taillight come on? Does the brake light come on when you depress the brake pedal and lever? Check left and right turn signals, front and rear. Remember that the cause of a malfunction here could be a result of the battery, relay and/or bulb. If your battery is low or old; replace it, specially if your bike is

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If you have an adjustable suspension, remember to read your owner’s manual and adjust it properly for the load you’ll be carrying and the type of riding you’ll be doing. Though an improperly adjusted suspension may not seem critical, imagine your surprise as your bike behaves differently in the middle of a curve because you forgot to reset it after picking up your friend last night. Sit on the bike and rock it, making sure that everything moves smoothly and relatively slowly.

Sidestand/Centerstand The sidestand is a handy little item—it’s what keeps your motorcycle off the ground.

Make sure it’s not cracked or bent. Check the spring or springs. Are they in place, and do they have enough tension to keep the sidestand safely up?

If everything’s in place and operating properly you’re done, and you’re good to go.

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Yeti Travels’ tour operation • Itineraries are pre-planned and flexible that appeals to adventurers of all ages.

• The group travels through the region without damaging its pristine environment, nor disrupting lives of the local population and their animals.

• The tour is operated in smaller groups, with 4-10 like-minded travelers, with an effort to reduce social and environmental impacts.

• Groups are led by an experienced Yeti Tour Manager (The Pack Leader) and Support Crew comprising of a Bike Mechanic (The

Sweep Rider) and a 4WD Support Unit with a driver.

• Yeti Travel’s mission is to provide fun riding experience and explore the country while making positive contribution to the local economy.

Yeti Travels’ Dirt Biking Itinerary Journey to Lo-Mustang is but one of a series of adventure initiatives operated by Yeti Travels Pvt Ltd., journeying through majestic Mustang landscapes. Dirt biking in terrains along Lo Mustang is a dream come true for motorbiking fanatics where you get to experience nature first hand. A string of motorcycles snakes through the hills of the Trisuli, snaking its way around the Marshanydi, the mighty Kaligandaki River, snow-capped peaks, through local villages, past lush fertile pastures and the pine forests as you make your way up to the Himalayan desert of Lo-Mustang. This group ride is all about a unique opportunity to share the open road and wonderful scenery with a group of like-minded riders.

Day 1: Kathmandu – Pokhara Time to roll out! Once out of Kathmandu the ride to Lakeside, Pokhara is a good five hours of some fantastic scenery. Stopping at the Riverside Springs Resort for lunch, it continues onwards for the first overnight at a hotel and dinner at Lakeside, Pokhara.

Day 2: Pokhara– Kalopani 8:00AM - A breakfast meet is

called discussing the day’s route in detail. The Tour Manager provides safety pointers and briefs riders on the day’s riding environment.

Day 3: Kalopani – Muktinath

9:00AM – The trip sets off. It is a completely off road ride Beni onwards, stopping at Tatopani for Lunch.

From Jomsom the trip heads towards Kagbeni to Muthinath and back to Jomsom

Photo sessions follow in the next stop - the famous Rupse Charra (waterfall).Past Ghasa, the trip heads towards overnight stay at a Lodge in Kalopani.

The ride starts from Kalopani passing by Tukche, Marapha and Jomsom.

Muktinath (3900m) is the furthest point and altitude reached on this tour. Located within a national park, the temple is under state protection because

of its historical, cultural and environmental value.

Day 4: Jomsom – Tatopani Day 5: Tatopani – Pokhara Day 6: Pokhara–Kathmandu

Established in 1966 Yeti Travels Pvt Ltd., has been a pioneering force in the Tourism Industry of Nepal for over 40 Years. Solely owned and operated by Nepalese nationals, the company employs over 200 individuals and maintains the largest private fleet of vehicles.

Yeti Travels has earned the reputation of being Nepal’s Largest and most reliable Destination Management Company.

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ALLYOUNEED

ALL YOU NEED Winter Motorbiking

Winter can be a tad bit brutal for motorcycle enthusiasts, to put it modestly. Even when it gets super chilly, true fanatics never stray from their precious motorbikes. But safety always comes first. Listed are biking essentials available locally, to ensure that your holiday bike trip is also safe besides being uber pleasurable!

For yourself

Wind chill factors of the cold can cause reactions of the body to slow resulting in imprecise motor skills. Icy gusts have similar mind numbing effects, affecting overall mind body coordination. It is, thus, important to keep your body covered and airtight.

Layering: Layer up in comfortable, warm clothing, but make sure not to comprise on mobility. For best layering options try, at first: Wicking Layer or base layer: Garments include silk, polyester and other synthetic materials with snug fitting. It wicks moisture away from the body without robbing it off warmth. Cotton, here, is a no-no.

Insulating Layer: Opt for garments including synthetic fleece or low-tech wool to insulate body from the cold air outside while retaining warmth close to the body.

You can even double up the layer.

Weatherproof Layer: Garments include latest weatherproof technology such as Gortex. It is essential that these garments be windproof and keep the weather out. These technologies work by letting out any sweat or moisture while keeping the body dry in the rain.

Gloves: The same layering technique works for hands and feet. Wicking, insulating and weatherproofing hands are important for better control and grip.

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during the winter, to protect your ankles and to avoid chills entering your body from under the pants.

Face cover: A full-face helmet is not everybody’s preference; however, it is the ultimate headgear during long winter bike rides. Not only does it reduce facial exposure to the cold, but it also provides extra protection to the head.

Masks: Neck gators are most preferable during winter, working to keep both face and neck warm and protected from the cold.

Glasses: One cannot afford teary eyes when riding long distance, especially during winter when natural light is already low. Glasses provide better visibility while protecting eyes from the stinging cold. Just make sure to opt for tinted glasses appropriate for the time of day.

Chest guard: Specs: Windproof Local Chinese brands Price: MPR 290 – 350

Electrify yourself: Simply operated, electric vests and gloves are great options to keep your fleece warm. A simple chest guard is another alternative to proscribe winter gusts.

For your bike

It’s not just you that needs protecting from the winter. Your machine needs enough TLC this time of year too. Taking care of even the minutest detail and accessories can go a long way for your bike’s upkeep.

Batteries: You don’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere just because your battery ran out. It is thus essential to check on the batteries, especially for long jour-

Dirt bike helmet Price: MPR 2500 – 15000 Vega Full/Half helmet also available on request

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83 neys, and have it powered up. Do test runs to make sure it withstands rigors of the weather. In addition, use a Battery Tender to keep it charged.

Glasses Brand: Carting/ MRC/ AMG Price: MPR 450 – 1500

Motorcycle fluids: Using proper oil for your motorcycle is top priority. A 10 – 40w oil is ideal for winter cruising. In case of liquid cooled bikes, it is important to have antifreezing readings adequate for the temperatures you will be riding in.

Mechanical Inspection: Thoroughly inspect the bike for any mechanical problems before starting the ride – saves you a lot of distress later.

Harley scarf Specs: Neck gator Price: MPR 225 - 550

Grip: Price: MPR 50/60 – 550

Extras: Carry along accessories such as extra grips and disc locks. The grip makes it easier to work with gloves while disc locks ensure security for the bikes.

Disc lock: Price: MPR 290 – 1000

Last but not the least, keep updated with weather reports and information regarding road conditions ahead. Happy Biking!

Gloves windproof Brand: V-Poeg racing equipment Price: MPR 550 – 3000

1. Full face helmet Brand: AARON/ Snell/ Index/ MRC/ MDS Price: MPR 2000 – 8000 1

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2. All in one sports jacket Specs: Windproof - Shoulder/ elbow padded Brand: Alpinestar/HRC/ Yamaha/Pro-biker Price: MPR 2000 – 10000 3. Kneepad/ elbow pad Specs: Wind proof and protective Brand: FOX/ Alpinestar Price: MPR 1850 and above (per set)

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PHOTOLOGUE

a PHOTOGRAPHic journey to

Photos Rocky Prajapati | Words Nisha Shakya

Standing above 8000 meters in the north central Nepal, Mount Annapurna, meaning “the goddess of sustenance� is one of the highest mountains of the world.

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), the conserved area around Annapurna region is one of the spectacular regions of Nepal. The unique trail to the Annapurna Region leads you through a magnificent panorama of staggeringly beautiful snow-capped

peaks of Annapurna I, Glacier Dome, Gangapurna, Fang and the fishtail peak of Machapuchhre. The journey to ABC through forests and archetypal Nepali village life gives a lifetime experience to compliment the intense beauty of nature.

The true classic trek to ABC leads you through a natural amphitheater of villages, inhabited by a wide diversity of people from different ethnic groups of Gurung, Magar, and Thakali people. The trail is also rich in unique flora and fauna.

At Dhampus, the tranquility of the place is sheer bliss, and the panoramic view of Annapurna I, Himchuli and Machapuchhre will make you praise the magnificence of Nother Nature.

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A perfectly captured Mount Machapuchhre on a misty morning from Dovan.

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The fishtail peak of Machhapuchhre turns golden as the earliest rays of the morning sun tenderly kiss its peak.

Prayers work when nothing else does. The Buddhists prayer flags around Annapurna Base Camp gives a rich religious look to the place.

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The Midas touch of the setting sun turns the silver mountains into gold. The view of Mount Annapurna I and Himchuli shines as the sun sets.

The gigantic mountains stand so tall; no one can stop themselves from praising this beauty.

Annapurna range as seen from Machapuchhre Base Camp.

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photologue

The tender rays of morning sun fall upon the hills, the tender hands have set on for work

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Step by step approaching the base camp. Staircase trail at Chomrung taking up towards ABC.

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photologue

Can you say how many folds of hills are here?

A beautifully captured creation of nature from Landruk, on the way to ABC.

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The colossal rock eternally covered with snow bestows one of the most excellent creations on earth. Annapurna Base Camp and the everlastingly beautiful Annapurna

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Woolen

Handicrafts Words Leah Olson | photos: Suresh Maharjan

Nothing compares to the snug comfort of woolen garbs in winter. Adding to it, is the plethora of woolly varieties swarming local markets -making winter shopping even more interesting!

One minute Nepal is enveloped in sticky, humid monsoon heat. Then, in what seems like the blink of an eye, the sweltering heat transforms into the deep chill of winter. Rain clouds clear to reveal the staggering Himalayas, Kathmandu’s street vendors begin peddling thick socks and teashops rev up their production of piping hot chiya. When the weather turns wintery, there’s nothing like bundling up in a thick knit sweater, a pashmina shawl and a pair of felted slippers. Its a good thing than that Nepal’s handicraft artisans offer cozy and stylish antidotes to the pervasive chill of the long winter months.

Signature woolen handicrafts can be found all over Kathmandu and Patan, but the full gamut of goods is centralized in the tourist district of Thamel. Shops selling pashmina products, slippers, sweaters, bags and beyond jostle for space along the crowded streets. Woolen goods of varying qualities exist at each shop, so it is necessary to carefully inspect your items and speak with the shopkeeper about their origin. Some of the wool used for these handicrafts comes from within Nepal’s borders, but much of it is imported from other parts of the Asia-Pacific region.

Felt Goods

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felted handbags and slippers. Local women make these felted goods that are available here, says Murtaza who is originally from Bihar in India.

Felted items are made from wool, but the final products feel and look very different from raw wool.

To create felt, Murtaza says that the women first soak the raw wool in hot water.

They then add detergent or soap to the wet wool and apply pressure with their hands, rolling the material between their palms. After the wool turns firm, they rinse it with cold water and dry it. The fibers shrink together to create the distinctive felt fabric.

Felt & Silk House sells items small and large, including handbags, rainbow colored slippers, key-chains, hair bands and decorative items too. According to Murtaza, the handbags are especially unique because they require no stitches and use only a single piece of fabric.

These goods have become a specialty of Nepal’s handicraft industry with many varieties available even in craft shops in the United States and Europe.

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93 Pashminas and Shawls Throwing on a colorful pashmina shawl can add flair to even the plainest outfit while also keeping you warm. The fabric is as synonymous with great Nepali souvenirs as the Himalayas are synonymous with great trekking. A walk through Thamel reveals an overwhelming number of shops selling pure and mixed pashminas, as well as other types of woolen scarves.

Down a wide alley just off the main road from the Namaste Guesthouse in Jyatha, Thamel, is the small but welcoming Aarati Handicraft Traders. The owner, Laxmi Dhakal, is knowledgeable about Nepal’s wool industry and makes the search for souvenirs an enjoyable and hassle-free experience.

Dhakal says the price of shawls depends on quality and blend. For example, a cheaper, but lower quality shawl would consist of 70% pashmina wool and 30% silk. The best quality is 100% pashmina wool.

The name “pashmina” comes from the type of wool that is used in its making. The fabric is woven from the hair of changthangi, or mountain goats that live in the high altitude regions of Nepal and Tibet.

The variety available at Aarati Handicraft Traders comes in a smattering of bold colors and patterns.

The shawls are smooth and finely crafted, especially the exquisite patterns of animal prints, paisleys and stripes. Thicker shawls and blankets are also available, which are made of yak’s wool. Yaks, like pashmina goats, are indigenous to the Himalayan region, specifically to Qinghai and the Tibetan pla-

teau. Yak wool comes in varying qualities, depending on which layer of the animal’s coat it is sheared from. The lower quality wool is from the outer, thicker layer of the yak’s coat and the best quality is from the inside layer, closest to the animal’s skin.

According to Dhakal, the most popular souvenirs and gifts she sells are pashminas.

“Pashmina equals luxury,” she explains. “Of course, it also looks nice and is soft and warm.”

A pure pashmina, of which the finest quality exudes an eye-catching sheen, is one of the best woolen souvenirs to bring back from Nepal. A luxurious Nepali pashmina won’t cease to delight the recipient with its fine quality and gorgeous color.

Knit Clothing

Nepalis are no strangers to cold weather. They do,

Bright woollen shawls are increasingly becoming a popular fashion statement among youngsters as well as with the older generation.

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94

PerfectTakeaways

Woolen coats keep Himalayan yaks warm on the Tibetan plateau, and they can keep you warm too. after all, live nestled in the lap of the world’s highest mountain peaks. If felted slippers or silky pashmina shawls don’t quite do it for you, Nepal’s woolen, knit clothing offers the ultimate respite from bone-chilling temperatures.

Knit clothing, like felted handicrafts, come in a surprisingly diverse range of colors and patterns. A peek into New Peace Handicrafts off J.P. Road in Thamel reveals plain colored sweaters, stripped socks, spotted scarves and just about everything in between. Most of the knit clothing items available come with a soft, fleece lining which exponentially increases their warmth-factor besides also ridding you from the possible itch of the loose woolen ends. Whether in Nepal’s Himalayas, the U.S.’s Tetons, or the Swiss Alps, these knit woolen sweaters and socks will warm even the most chilled toes after a day of skiing or trekking.

M.S. Subedi, owner of New Peace Handicrafts, says the raw material for Nepal’s knit clothing mostly comes from New Zealand, but all the items are handmade in Nepal. Prices for these goods vary, with the cheapest being a pair of fleece-lined socks for 150 rupees, to the most expensive being hooded, zip-up sweaters for 1,500 rupees.

Woolen coats keep Himalayan yaks warm on the Tibetan plateau, and they can keep you warm too, whether it be after a long trek in the Annapurnas, or sitting at home in front of your fireplace. Beating frigid temperatures with woolen handicrafts from Nepal, felt slippers, pashmina shawls, or knit sweaters, is the ultimate way to stay cozy this winter.

Where to Go: Woolen handicrafts make excellent, and cozy, souvenirs. The best place to find them is in the Thamel area. Make sure you shop around at various shops to find the best deals. Here are some choice picks:

for Felt Goods:

Felt & Silk House Jyatha, Thamel, Kathmandu 977-1-4256059

for Pashminas and Shawls:

Aarati Handicraft Traders Jyatha, Thamel, Kathmandu 9849006685

for Knit Clothing

New Peace Handicrafts J.P. Road, Thamel, Kathmandu 9841332053

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Traveler’s info

Nepal Access to Nepal

By air: Nepal Airlines is the national flag carrier of Nepal with flights to/from Delhi, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Osaka. Other international airlines operating from/ to Kathmandu are Air Arabia (Sharjah), Air China (Lhasa, Chengdu), Biman Bangladesh (Dhaka), China Southern Airlines (Guanzhou), Cosmic Air (Delhi, Varanasi), Dragon Air (Hong Kong), Druk Air (Delhi, Paro), Etihad Airways (Abu Dhabi), GMG Airlines (Dhaka), Gulf Air (Bahrain, Muscat), Indian Airlines (Delhi, Kolkotta, Varanasi), Jet Airways (Delhi), Jet Lite (Delhi), Korean Air (Seoul), Pakistan International Airlines (Karachi), Qatar Airways (Doha), Silk Air (Singapore), Thai Airways (Bangkok).

By land: All visitors coming to Nepal by land must enter only through one of these entry points (1) Kakarbhitta (2) Birgunj (3) Belhiya, Bhairahawa (4) Nepalgunj (5) Dhangadi and (6) Mahendranagar in the Nepal-India border and (7) Kodari in the Nepal-China border. The overland tourists entering the country with their vehicles must possess an international carnet or complete customs formalities.

Route Siliguri-Kakarvitta-KTM Jogbani-Biratnagar-KTM Raxaul-Birgunj-KTM Sunauli-Bhairahawa-KTM Rupaidiya-Jamuna (Nepalgunj)-KTM Gauriphanta-Mohana (Dhangadi)-KTM Banbasa-Gaddachauki (Mahendranagar)-KTM Sunauli-Bhairahawa-PalpaPokhara Sunauli-Bhairahawa- Chitwan Sunauli-Bhairahawa-Lumbini

Approx.

Distance 620 kms 550 kms 280 kms 280 kms 520 kms 630 kms 715 kms 185 kms 145 kms 26 kms

Entry Procedures A. Tourist Visa Visa Facility Duration Fee Multiple entry 15 days US$ 25 or equivalent convertible currency Multiple entry 30 days US$ 40 or equivalent convertible currency Multiple entry 90 days US$ 100 or equivalent convertible currency B. Gratis (Free) Visa • Gratis visa for 30 days available only for nationals of SAARC countries.

• Indian nationals do not require visa to enter into Nepal.

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land of the himalayas Area Location Capital Population People Language

147,181 sq. km Situated between China in the north and India in the south, east and west Kathmandu 25.8 million Nepal has more than 101 ethnic groups and 92 spoken languages.

Nepali is the national language; travel-trade people understand and speak English as well.

Religion Nepal is a secular state with a pre-dominance of Hindu and Buddhist population.

Currency Nepali Rupee (approximately US$ 1 equals Rs. 78.90 as of December 2008) Political System Federal Democratic Republic Climate Nepal has four major seasons (1) Winter: December-February, (2) Spring: MarchMay, (3) Summer: June-August, (4) Autumn: September-November. Monsoons are from June till mid September. Nepal can be visited the whole year round.

Foreign exchange Foreign currencies must be exchanged only through the banks or authorized foreign exchange dealers. The receipts from such transaction are to be obtained and retained. Visitors can exchange money at the foreign exchange counter at the airport upon arrival also. Indian currency Rs. 500/- and Rs. 1,000/- notes are not allowed to be brought into Nepal, will not be exchanged and will not be accepted for transaction of any kind.

Passenger service charge and tourist service fee Rs. 1,356/- per person for departure to SAARC (South Asian) countries and Rs. 1,695/- for departure to other international destinations

Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) Where & how to obtain TIMS Card?

Tourists of all nationalities including Indians, who are interested to visit general trekking

areas of Nepal, are required to receive TIMS Card through one of the following offices: l Kathmandu (NTB office, TAAN office and Government registered trekking companies) l Pokhara (NTB office, TAAN office and Government registered trekking companies) Opening hours counter at Government registered trekking companies will remain open 12 hours a day all the seven days a week round the year. l TIMS counter at TAAN / NTB offices will follow Government working hours/ days. For GIT TIMS Card will cost around 10 $ Per Person and for FIT 20 $ Per Person. l To obtain a TIMS Card you need a copy of your passport and two passport-size photographs. l TIMS

For more information, please contact: Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (Tel: 4443003, 4440920, Web site: www.timsnepal.com).

Entry Fee Protected Areas: (Per Person) Area

Foreign

SAARC

Nepalese

Manaslu Conservation Area Annapurna Conservation Area Kanchanjunga Conservation Area Lantang National Park Sagarmatha National Park Rara National Park Shey Phoksundo National Park Makalu Barun National Park Khaptad National Park Chitwan National Park Royal Bardia National Park Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve Parsa Wildlife reserve Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve Shivapuri National Park

NRs. 2000 NRs. 2000 NRs. 2000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 1000 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 500 NRs. 250

NRs. 200 NRs. 200 NRs. 200 NRs. 100 NRs. 100 NRs. 100 NRs. 100 NRs. 100 NRs. 100 NRs. 50 NRs. 50 NRs. 50 NRs. 50 NRs. 50 NRs. 50 NRs. 25

Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free Free

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Offer valid till February 28, 2011