Travel Times - Lumbini Special

MAY - JUN 2010

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VOL. 2 | ISSUE 7

lumbini b u d d h a ’ s

a b o d e

Far from urban hustle bustle, Lumbini - the birthplace of Lord Buddha has an aura that soothes every soul. With plenty to see and plenty to do, Lumbini is a great getaway.

an hour with

snow boarding

bagan

on Personality Review

on Adventure Intro

on Global Treasure

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yOGENDRA SHAKYA

The religious city of

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Editorial Dear Readers,

Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Editor aasha Ram Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager vishal j. rana Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Inhouse Writer Prita Malla Content Development Officer gaurav kandel Photographer Suresh Maharjan Advisors A. Das gupta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Ramon Shrestha Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com

It’s great to get out of the house after a week of stifling shut downs. The peace rally at the end of the week sent out a great message demanding peace and harmony amongst all political players. And it seems to have worked, for the time being at least.

What a coincidence then that this is also the month that commemorates the birth of the Buddha, an ex-prince turned universal ambassador for peace as well as the month that was supposed to herald a new beginning for Nepal with the writing of a new constitution. The latter didn’t happen but we can only hope for the best.

Lumbini, where we spent a very warm week to bring to you the readers this special Lumbini issue, is quite the getaway, in more ways than one. The birthplace of the Buddha, through the slow but steady implementation of the Lumbini Master Plan, has turned the ancient gardens into one that represents the various ways in which Buddhism has branched out into the world.

Read on about how to make the most of a week in Lumbini and what not to miss out.

distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine.

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.

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We talk to Richard Ragan, Country Representative for WFP about the side of him that likes to jump off cliffs and improvise down the steepest slops of the country. Snowboarding is in Nepal and it’s not long before we take to the slopes too! Also in this issue is a special interview with hospitality sector veteran and Nepal Tourism Year 2011 coordinator Yogendra Shakya on the toughest role he might ever take. Read on for a little peak into his personal life too.

We had an interesting time coming up the issue. We hope you have one going through it. Keep traveling.

The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Contributors

Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017

In line with the theme are regular contributor Prasanna Pandey’s philosophical piece on Thangka paintings, a costly, yet perfect souvenir to take back home and first time contributor Swoyam Joshi about Buddha Jayanti – a celebration of the day that Buddha was born.

Ravi Shanker

Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur.

He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicines.

Sradda Thapa

Sradda Thapa is 24 who likes to eat, talk to witty people and walk around Kathmandu. Currently a student at the Nepa School of Social Science she hopes to do something meaningful with her life, but has no idea what that would be right now. Also, she likes cobble stoned streets.

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Contents Contents

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12 |

Lumbini

on COVER STORY

Far from urban hustle bustle, Lumbini - the birthplace of the Buddha has an aura that soothes every soul.With plenty to see and plenty to do, Lumbini is a great getaway.

Everest base camp

...on garlic soups, winding trails and anxiety attacks...

on TRAVELOGUE

Beyond the coffee shops and internet cafes at the highest altitude in the world is the mother of all trekking destinations – not just for its views but also for level of difficulty. highest mountains on Earth.

20 Savour the flavour of

russia

on FOODRINK

28 Bagan

Yogendra Shakya

on personality review

A veteran of the hospitality industry, Yogendra Shakya has perhaps met a fitting challenge – coordinating the Nepal Tourism Year 2011 and its many aspects.

A city that dates back to

the 2nd century, Bagan is arguably the best in art and architectural heritage that Myanmar offers.

buddha jayanti

90 THANGKAS

68

on Perfect takeaways

on festival watch

A The day the Buddha was born symbolizes the beginning of a new era and is celebrated worldwide in different ways.

62

an hour with

on Global Treasure

74

If all you know of Russian cuisine is Russian vodka, you’ve been lagging behind.

Russian food is a wholesome delight with something for everyone.

94

We see them hanging pretty on every other souvenir store in Thamel. But this Buddhist art form requires awe inspiring dedication and discipline.

54 snow boarding

in ADVENTURE INTRO

Brand new in Nepal but raking in interest all over the world, the bastard child of skiing comes howling down Nepali slopes.

Start traveling....with Travel Times 12 -17 Travel News

Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

66 Recommended Restaurants

A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.

18 Travelers’ gallery

78 croc with a pot on nature & wildlife

52 Health Times

82

Check the best captures sent to us by travelers.

Know about staying healthy while traveling in summer

58 shangri-la hotel & resorts on HOTELS & CASINOS

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With waters that are suited for the Gharial, Nepal’s a hot spot for sighting this amazing crocodilian.

a photoGraphic journey to namo buddha on photologue

Witness the natural beauty of the unsurpassed, supreme sacred sites and unmatched artistry in every inch of monastery.

86 a tale of vagabond

Meet a travel enthusiast, Dennis G. Jarvis who’s already been to almost half of the world, sharing his travel experience...

96 REEL Travel

Find out the best documentaries of KIMFF and Traveling FSA

98 Events and Tips

Find out what’s happening around you.

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Sanjay sets another landmark in the Nepali Athletics

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Sanjay Pandit, one of the aspiring marathon runners of Nepal has set another landmark in Nepali athletics by completing the 196km marathon from Jiri to Kathmandu in a record of 21 hours.

km. The marathon was organized with the objective of making people aware about global warming and climate change. After reaching the President’s residence which was the ending point of the marathon, Sanjay gifted the black sand, black stone and national flag brought from Jiri to the President letting him know about global warming.

The race which started at 6:10 am from Jiri was escorted by an ambulance, Tata Vesta, and Gladiator Bike with the member of 10 people including media persons. Sanjay started from Jiri which is at the attitude of 1932 metres, then climbed up 550 metres up to Khawa, followed by 1700 metres climb to Tama Koshi, then another climb of 2700 metres up to Kharidunga and finally climbed down to Bhote Koshi with the night stay at Khadichaur.

The total distance covered in the first day was 110km and the second day which started from Khadichaur covered the remaining 86

Continued increase in the number of visitors

Rani Mahal to be renovated

The marathon was organized by Kantipur Valley College and was supported by Ministry of Environment, Nagarik Hospital and the media partners- Avenues Television, Nagarik Daily and Mahadevi F.M. The whole program and team was managed by Jeetendra Man Amatya. The run was initiated as part of Sanjay’s project of covering the whole of Nepal starting from Mechi in the East to Mahakali in the West, with a total distance of 1050 km.

Rani Mahal was built on the bank of the Kali Gandaki River by Khadga Shumsher in memory of his beloved wife Tej Kumari nearly 150 years ago.

The palace is getting a facelift after its depredation for more than a decade. Tourism Office, Bhairahawa, has allocated one million rupees for the redecoration of the queen’s palace.

The figures released by Immigration Office, Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) show that visitor arrivals in the month of April 2010, have increased by 2.3% to 38,694 compared to the same month last year.

The overall arrivals from South Asian region have gained positive growth. The figures also show increasing movement in the visitor arrivals from the USA and Canada. However Australia and New Zealand have registered negative growth.

This is the eleventh month Nepal has witnessed a consecutive growth in the international tourist arrivals. In the first four months of 2010 a robust 21% of cumulative growth has been observed.

A total of 49,096 foreign tourists departed from TIA in April 2010.The number of Nepalese arrivals stood at 50,672 while 66,757 Nepalese departed from TIA in April 2010.

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Renovation and redecoration to enhance the exquisiteness of Rani Mahal, also known as the Nepal’s Taaj Mahal, has been commenced.

Restoration ahead of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is sure to cheer locals and tourism entrepreneurs.

Oman Air names general sales agents

Shanghai Expo to promote NTY-2011

Oman Air has appointed general sales agents (GSA) in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Dar Es Salam in Tanzania, and Kathmandu in Nepal, three of its soon-tobe-launched-destinations.

The carrier will be flying to Kuala Lumpur from May 1, to Dar Es Salam from June 1 and to Kathmandu from June 17. Amravati Travels has been appointed the GSA for Nepal.

“We are sure that both inbound tourism and outbound tourism between Oman and these countries will prosper greatly,” said Abdulrazaq Alraisi, General Manager, Worldwide Sales.

Nepal has been participating in Shanghai Expo-2010 from May 1 to attract and promote Nepal’s Tourism Year 2011 (NTY-2011). Nepal pavilion at Shanghai Expo is focusing on attracting more Chinese tourists and will be distributing brochures about Nepal and its tourism destination in Chinese language.

During the expo, Nepal will be showcasing its cultural performances, heritages and other attractions. Nepal will have two information desks and the special pavilion in the expo will help tourists get visas and other facilities as fast as possible.

The expo will conclude on October 31 after 184 days.

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Korean is first woman to scale 14 highest peaks Oh Eun-Sun successfully completed the summit of Annapurna, one of the Himalayan giants, to be the first woman to scale the world’s 14 highest mountains.

“I would like to share this joy with the South Korean people,” said Oh, after summiting Annapurna in central Nepal. She reached the

news in brief

summit of Annapurna 13 years after she scaled her first Himalayan mountain, Gasherbrum II, in 1997.

“We recognize her achievement as the first woman climber to scale all the highest mountains in the world,” said Ang Tshering, president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Mt Dhaulagiri grand celebration on cards Pokhara will see a three-day Golden Jubilee celebration on May 12, 13 and 14 of the first ascent of Mt Dhaulagiri (8,167-metre), the seventh highest peak in the world. Various programs will also mark the day in Kathmandu and Beni, the foothill of the Mt Dhaulagiri.

Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960

by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition team led

by Max Eiselin. The list of guests for the historic day includes 78-year old Austrian climber Kurt Diemberger -- the only surviving member of the first expedition team -- and other mountaineers from around the world.

The next SAARC meeting to be held in Kathmandu After the Sixteenth Summit of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) in Thimpu, Bhutan, the Leaders of SAARC issued a joint declaration titled Thimpu Silver Jubilee Declaration “Towards a Green and Happy South Asia”.

In Silver Jubilee Year of SAARC, the Leaders have agreed to form a ‘South Asia Forum’ for the generation of debate, discussion and the exchange of ideas on South Asia and its future development. Concerned by the extent of environmental degradation in the region, they have agreed to adopt

eco-friendly approaches and technologies to make South Asia a world leader in low-carbon technology and renewable energies.

The Leaders accentuated the need for promotion of tourism to enhance greater people-to-people contacts in the region and called for the creation of tourism-friendly environment.

They welcomed the offer of the Government of Nepal to host the Third SAARC Ministerial Meeting on Tourism in Kathmandu in 2011 which coincides with the Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

Nepali government to exempt visa fee for mountaineers

Promotional program to attract tourists from India

Nepali government has exempted visa fee for Mt. Everest and Dhaulagiri summiteers for the year 2010 and 2011. The mountaineering fee has been reduced to mark the Dhaulagiri golden jubilee celebration, on May 13, and Sagarmatha day on May 29.

Nepal Tourism Year (NTY-2011) Coordinating Committee has set promotional programs at the Indian borders with the aim of bringing in 300,000 Indian tourists to Nepal in NTY-2011 which will be started at Gorakhpur, Lucknow, Raxual, Sitamadi, and Sunauli and other places at the Nepal-India borders.

The government is set to celebrate the third International Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) Day for two days, on May 28-29 with various programs.

According to Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) more than 250 Mt. Everest summiteers are expected to attend the program. Nepal has opened a total of 326 peaks for climbing. The higher 293 peaks are managed by Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation while the lower 33 peaks are managed by NMA.

Besides Indian tourists, the committee has also targeted to attract 100,000 tourists from China in the NTY-2011. While, Australia Sales mission was held from 18th-21st May-2010 at different places in Australia to promote NTY-2011.The number of total tourist arrivals from Australia by air to Nepal during January to April 2010 has increased by 10% as compared to the same period in 2009.

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• Nepal vows to accomplish national tourism campaign Despite political unrest in the country, a world recognized tourism destination Nepal aims to succeed in national tourism campaign “Nepal Tourism Year-2011 (NTY).

• Nepalese woman wants to climb highest peaks in 7 continents Following the foot steps of Oh Eun-Sun, the first Korean woman to climb the highest peaks in all continents, Junita Sambahamphe, a Nepali girl in her twenties is aiming to attempt the same.

• Dragon Air increase its flights to Nepal Dragon Air is planning to increase its flight to Nepal from September, with the increase in visitors to the country during Nepal Tourism Year 2011.The airline is going to increase the number of inbound tours to Nepal via Hong Kong.

• NEW JOINING - Crowne Plaza Soaltee Kathmandu Sony Chaudhary has been appointed Assistant Manager - Marketing and Public Relations at Crowne Plaza Soaltee Kathmandu, Nepal. She will be responsible for strengthening the positioning of the hotel in national & international market.

• Anuradha Koirala nominated for CNN heroes Anuradha Koirala, the chair person of Maiti Nepal, has been nominated for CNN heroes Award. She has been nominated for her continuous and relentless contribution in the women’s and children’s issues, particularly in the prevention of trafficking within and from Nepal.

• New General Manager at Everest Hotel Kathmandu Mughis Khan has been appointed General Manager at Everest Hotel with effect from April.

• Nepal’s Birdman in World Records Gautam Sapkota, from Hetauda, Nepal has set a World Record for most birdscalls imitating. He mimicked 151 different types of birds-setting for the record.

• Georgian team to climb virgin peak A team of Georgian climbers is attempting to summit previously unclimbed Peak IV (6736m). The successful summit of the virgin peak will help promote Nepal´s adventure tourism prospects ahead of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 celebration.

• A solo painting exhibition A solo painting exhibition by Sunita Shakya with the title “Theme of Beauty” took place from 20th-26th May, 2010 at Nepal Art Council. The exhibition was organised by Commercial Artists’ Association of Nepal.

• travel times can be read online If you have missed any back issues of Travel Times, now you can access any back issues from anywhere via www.traveltimes-mag.com

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China Southern now Asia’s largest airline

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MOROCCAN TOURISM AIMS TO ACHIEVE SIGNIFICANT POSITION IN THE GLOBAL MARKET

China Southern Airlines has become Asia’s largest carrier in terms of passenger numbers after overtaking Japan Airlines Corp, or JAL, according to figures provided by the two companies. According to a Channel NewsAsia report, the Guangzhou-based airline actually overtook JAL in 2008 when its demand rose to 58.24 million passengers per year. China Southern has said it expects passenger numbers to rise 13% in 2010 to nearly 75 million passengers.

On the other hand, the Japanese airline is restructuring with the help of a statebacked turnaround fund after filing for bankruptcy in January. It has said it will cut international and domestic capacity over the next year by 40 percent and 30 percent respectively, compared to the 2008 fiscal year. Combined with previously announced route-cutting plans, JAL will cease to run 28 international routes and close 11 international bases, while 50 domestic routes will be terminated, along with eight offices.

Robin Hood Fans to Visit Nottingham

The strengths of Moroccan tourism industry were discussed at a recent conference in Moscow. The potentials of the country to achieve significant position on the global tourism market were highlighted in the conference. Morocco regards tourism as one of the main industries contributing to the economy of the country. Although the global tourism had to undergo a difficult period, the Moroccan travel trade managed to face the challenges in an adequate way.

Speaking at the conference, Lachhab said, “The current Morocco’s ambition to position itself strongly on new markets besides our traditional markets, reflects the new dynamics of the country and a focus on the areas of our industry with the highest potential for development” as quoted by Fmdt.ma.

legend. While the world is preparing for the grand premiere, VisitBritain, the UK national tourist office, has declared May the month of Robin Hood.

The Nottingham Castle has opened an impressive exhibition called Robin Hood – the Movie, which features costumes, props and other behind-the-scenes memorabilia.

Visitors to the castle will get a rare chance to see an interesting tournament, and have a lesson in archery. The City of Caves is an absolute must see here. Not only were these hand-carved limestone caves the perfect hide-out for many outlaws, they run under the city and once led to the castle itself.

With the new Robin Hood Movie coming out in May, Nottingham and its surrounding areas have become the ultimate adventure destination for all who love the

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The movie opened in Australia cinemas nationwide from May 13 and fans of both the legend and the film are lured to follow the footsteps of the legendary prince of thieves.

Among the strengths of the Moroccan tourism industry discussed at the conference were geographic diversity, its historical and cultural legacy as well as the country’s proximity to Europe.

Emirates opens Mumbai lounge

The Emirates Lounge in Mumbai has become the first lounge to be opened by an international carrier in India. Passengers from Mumbai can now enjoy Emirates’ trademark service both on the ground as well as in the air. Offering passengers the latest in convenience, comfort and luxury while on the move, the lounge will play host to all Emirates’ First and Business Class passengers as well as Skywards Gold members.

Emirates' Divisional Senior Vice President of The Airport Services, Mohammed Mattar, said, “This lounge is part of our commitment to provide world-class services to our passengers. With the exclusive Emirates lounge in Mumbai, combined with our trademark Chauffeur Drive Service, our First and Business Class passengers will enjoy greater comfort and convenience when travelling from their doorstep through to their final destination.”

Set over an area of more than 650 square metres, the lounge can accommodate 100plus guests at a time, including 38 fine diners and seven in the business centre.

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France encourages highspending tourists

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Kempinski eyes into boutique Kempinski Hotel will venture into boutique hotels by its first hotel in Cairo, Egypt in June, according to a senior hotel executive. The Kempinski Nile Hotel, designed by French architect Pierre Yves Rochon will be the first boutique hotel in the Egyptian capital.

The hotel which consists of 191 rooms is expected to serve as an oasis of peace, relaxation and art. Axel Ludwig, General Manager, Kempinski Nile Hotel, said: "The prime

location of the property, combined with its superlative facilities, give Kempinski a great opportunity to positively establish the brand in Cairo. The hotel design and location offer a great competitive advantage.”

Kempinski Nile Hotel is set to offer the key values of city boutique hotels. The contemporary elegant design is combined with the warm atmosphere and the tailored service reflecting the European luxury and life style blended with the Egyptian culture.

International Travel Expo held at Bahrain The French tourism body has initiated a new drive to attract more high-end travelers by creating increased awareness about the country's myriad attractions.

France attracted a little over 725,000 tourists from the Middle East and Near East in 2009, and expects to maintain the momentum in 2010 by encouraging more high spending tourists. "Our strategy is long-term and we want to create awareness about the immense tourist potential of France and its new destinations in Rhone Alps and Bordeaux," said Karim Mekachera, Director of Atout France, the state-owned French tourism body. Atout France is taking some meaningful promotional activities to present the country’s compelling charm and diversity to the region's travel community.

France is also set to announce a new fiveyear tourism strategy for 2010-2015 which will seek to reinforce the country's predominance as the top destination through new infrastructure development as well as at a later stage unveiling new destinations opening up attractions in Rhone Alps and Bordeaux to complement the known and traditional attractions of Paris and the French Riveira.

Ninety exhibitors from 30 countries around the world met at the sixth edition of the Bahrain International Travel Expo (BITE 2010) held at the Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention Centre. The three-day event, which began from May 13, was held under the patronage of Culture and Information Minister Shaikha Mai bint Mohammed Al Khalifa.

BITE is supported by the Culture and Information Ministry, ABTTA and the Capital Governorate. Elite Hospitality is the official hotel, Avenue Car Rental and Leasing is looking after the ground transportation and TTN (Travel & Tourism News Middle East) and Al Hilal Group are the media partners while Radio Voice is the official radio channel.

ITB Asia demand reaches new heights

60% of travelers intend to travel at the same or greater rates

With the demands increasing rapidly, indications are that ITB Asia will grow strongly this year making it the largest ITB Asia since the event launched in Singapore in 2008.

Around 15% more floor space has been sold so far this year, compared to same period last year. Demand from Asia is leading the global travel industry recovery. Exhibitors have greatly increased or doubled and their space this year includes: the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Nepal Tourism Board, the Indonesian Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Asian Connections Alliance, Booking.com, Frasers Hospitality (Singapore), La Flora Resort and Spa (Thailand), and Luxury Travel (Vietnam).

Show organiser, Messe Berlin (Singapore), positions ITB Asia as “The Trade Show for the Asian Travel Market.”

The New Seven Wonder reopens to public after two months One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, the ancient Inca ruins site Machu Picchu, Peru reopened to visitors after a twomonth closure due to a storm. Hundreds of foreign visitors entered the ruins following the morning reopening, as an early downpour gave way to brilliant sunshine.

The entire route is expected to reopen in June. Until then, tourists can take the bus from Cusco to Piscachuco and from there; they can take the train to Machu Picchu

Pueblo at the base of the ruins. Machu Picchu, also known as “the Lost City of the Incas,” is the most famous tourist attraction in Peru, and is located 80 km northwest of the southern Peruvian city Cusco. It was only in 1911 when the Inca ruins drew international attention for the first time with the efforts of American historian Hiram Bingham.

Machu Picchu welcomes around one million visitors per year, with an average of 2000 to 2500 daily visitors.

A new study conducted by D.K. Shifflet & Associates finds that approximately 60% of recent travelers intend to travel for either business or leisure at the same or greater rates than they did in 2009.

The study, conducted among over 2,200 recent travelers, revealed that 25% more business trips and 20% more Leisure trips are planned in the first half of 2010. All the more, travelers are planning to spend more money this year. Only 14% of Business and 16% of Leisure travelers plan to spend less in the first half of 2010 than they did last year. Interestingly, travelers under the age of 35 plan to take the most Leisure trips in the next six months, but are most likely to spend less than they did last year.

The results of this study are based on a D.K. Shifflet & Associates national online survey of 2,242 respondents who had traveled in the past three months, conducted in January, 2010.

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TRAVELers’GALLERY

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By Surath Giri

pur Khokana, lalit

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TRAVELOGUE

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I wonder if the roads are eagerly waiting vehicles or if space is just not a problem there

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id us, altitude d Thankfully, for

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LUMBINI Buddha’s Abode

The birthplace of Lord Buddha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to amazing monasteries representing Buddhism the world over, Lumbini is no less than fascinating.

Words Utsav Shakya Photos Suresh Maharjan (Travel Times) & Rocky Prajapati

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32 | CoverStory - LUMBINI

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L

Lumbini is is situated in the western region of Nepal.

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umbini is a delight. Sadly, the same cannot be said about its summers. While it rained cats and dogs in Kathmandu, the mercury rose to 45 degree Celsius in Lumbini. In short, it was too damn hot. The area gets a nice breeze from nearby rivers, someone told me, forgetting perhaps that the breeze was a hot one. By the time we reached our hotel, Lumbini Garden New Crystal at seven in the morning, we were already sweating. Ushered into our master suite (a jacuzzi and a fridge full of chilled beer!), we immediately freshened up, had some breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant and set off for the Lumbini gardens. There are rickshaws, cycles and taxis on hire. The best option seemed to be old, Indian made, Hero cycles; they’re cheap at NRs.200 per day or NRs. 40 per hour. And you can take your own sweet time, troll-

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ing around the expansive gardens. And we were off - shaky cycles, bottled water and heavy camera equipment. If you’re new to Lumbini and what it is popular for, you should probably either buy a brochure that lists out the different monasteries there or hire a guide, both of which are easily available.

We had brochures and books, which led us straight to the Maya Devi Temple, the birthplace of the Buddha.

Before barging into Lumbini, I had been reading up on the history of the place. The first mention of the place was as ‘Lum Min’ in the diary of Fa Hian, a Chinese monk from 409 CE. Many pilgrims had visited the site then. Much later, when the Asiatic Society decided on exploring the area, Prithvi Narayan Shah, who united the

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country through ruthless annexations, did not allow it. Its rediscovery is said to have started much later in 1893 when a Nepali army major happened upon a sandstone pillar here. Dr Alois Fuhrer, a Viennese man associated with the Archaelogical Surveyor based in Lucknow, India was brought in, who established that the pillar had been erected in the 3rd century by emperor Ashoka. Triggered by this discovery two simultaneous digs were started, in both Nepal and India. However, it was a Nepali, General Khadka Shumshere Rana who came upon a similar pillar also erected by Ashoka in a village called Rummendei, modern day Lumbini.

Upon reading the inscription on the pillar, a part of which reads “…King Priyadarsi (Ashoka), Beloved of the Gods, visited this site in person and offered homage here because the Buddha, the sage of the

Sakyas, was born here”, the Buddha’s birthplace was rediscovered, again.

The Buddha or Siddhartha Gautam as he was called before he attained enlightenment was born in Lumbini in 642 BCE to the Shakya queen Maya Devi and King Shudhodhana; facts backed by countless research papers as well as an UNESCO World Heritage Site listing. It is said that the pregnant Maya Devi was travelling to her maternal home, when she went into labor and gave birth to the young prince as she held on to a Sal tree. She died a week later and left young Siddhartha to be raised by her sister. At age twenty nine however, Siddhartha Gautam, after witnessing human suffering, left his wife and infant son to seek answers to questions that bothered him about human life.

It was a Nepali, General Khadka Shumshere Rana who came upon another similar pillar also erected by emperor Ashoka

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The inside of the famed Maya Devi temple, with Buddha’s footstep and ruins from hundreds of years ago.

The first footprint of Lord Buddha enclosed in bullet proof glass.

The Nativity structure which shows Maya Devi giving birth to the Buddha as she takes support against a Sal tree.

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The present day Maya Devi temple, built over the remnants of a 3rd century Maya Devi temple that had been excavated in 1899 houses, underneath bulletproof glass, a footprint of the Buddha as well as ruins of the area. The structure is very basic, with a scaffolding-like pathway around the ruins for inspection and also an image of Maya Devi giving birth to the Buddha, called the Nativity Sculpture.

The outside of the temple reflects the simplicity of the inside, its walls whitewashed and with a small stupa on top, the Buddha’s eyes keeping watch over the lush landscape. Adjacent to the temple is the Maya Devi pond, the Pushkarani, with several large fish and turtles, where Maya Devi apparently bathed before giving birth to the young prince.

There is also a large Bodhi tree here, often mistaken by devotees as the one under which Siddhartha Gautam attained enlightenment. Prayer flags blow in the wind, running from tree to tree, crisscrossing in random manner, giving the gardens some much needed color. There are also some ruins surrounding the temple complex, not from the Buddha’s time but later monastic structures from the 3rd century BCE to the 8th century CE. Unearthed by an amateurish government excavation in 1933, it had later been restored quite carelessly and stands now more for decorative value than anything else.

The harsh sun proving bad for photography, we retired to the cool comfort of our hotel. Roaming around in the mid day sun is not advised. In the afternoon, well rested and after a cup of local chiya, we re-entered the Maya Devi temple. The outsides of the temple, like any other popular temple in Nepal are lined with small stalls that sell souvenirs in the form of Buddha statues, postcards and little knick knacks. Inside, in the fading light of the afternoon, the gardens adopted a different calm. The image of the temple was beautifully reflected in the still, green waters of the pond. The breeze now was

The Ashoka pillar erected as a reminder of emperor Ashoka’s visit to the area greatly aided the rediscovery of Lumbini.

cool and I sat down for a while to meditate under my own Bodhi tree as my photographer friends made the most of the light conditions. The only sounds were that of a group of pilgrims from Singapore who were chanting and of birds chirping.

Closing my eyes here, I tried to imagine myself at the same place but in the Buddha’s time, in a garden that was Lumbini, located at the boundaries of the Koliya and Shakya kingdoms. With the fading light, candles were lit around the pond giving it a surreal aura. As we prepared to be done for the day, the night lights came on, bathing the ancient garden and ruins in a romantic yellow light and allowing the temple to glow. Walking amid centuries’ old ruins, we made our way back.

The development of Lumbini came about with one man’s vision and devotion to his faith.

U Thant, the 3rd United Nations Secretary General was a Burmese national who put forward the idea of developing the place as an international pilgrimage site for Buddhists. The UN supported Lumbini Development Committee whose members came from countries such as Burma, Cambodia, India and Japan commissioned the design of a master plan for Lumbini to a Japanese architect, Kenzo Tange. The design of the plan alone took five years and a reported $ 5 million. Originally, 37 countries were listed to make modest monasteries here, not competing in grandeur but to display the various ways in which Buddhism was practiced worldwide. According to early estimates, work here was to complete in 1987. The master plan today, is still very far from completion. Besides the Maya Devi temple, the rectangular area in the plan is divided into the East and West Monastic Zones, followed by the New Lumbini Village Zone. We decided to start with the East Monastic Zone which houses the Theravada monasteries, early the next day because it had fewer sites.

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Inside Thai Monastery, red and gold walls and ceiling provide a rich, well suited background for the gold polished idols of the Buddha.

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The next day, our bodies a little stiff from yesterday’s cycling, we headed out to get our cycles where the owner, a smiling, young man, unbelievably tanned from working in the sun, gave us a discount on the rates. Stocking up on water, we cycled around the lake to get to the Thai monastery.

The construction of this monastery on five acres of land was started in 1997 by the Thai government.

The grand monastic wall and some buildings have been designed and built according to typical Thai architecture. In the day’s bright light, the imposing white monastery shone brightly. Pictures of Buddhist actor Richard Gere adorn some of the notice boards, perhaps in an effort to up the star quotient of this site. Inside, red and gold walls and ceiling provide a rich, well suited background for the gold polished idols of the Buddha. On either sides of the main hall are smaller quarters for official purposes as well as separate buildings built in similar style, for the monks and also the dining rooms. A prayer room is under the main hall here but being out of bounds for the moment, we moved on.

On our way here, we ran into Rabindra Hindu, a 12 year old brat who rode behind us on our cycles and gave us partially true information in return for snacks and juice. He became a guide of sorts for the entire time we were in Lumbini. In the green lawns of the Thai monastery, Rabindra took some time off from his guide work to cool off.

As I watched him derive full pleasure from a rubber pipe spewing cold water, my eyes wandered to fields beyond the monastery area. There was dense, idyllic forestation on most sides, punctuated by the sight of the tops of other neighboring monasteries making the sight look fairytale like.

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1. The red and gold interior of the majestic Thai monastery.

2. On a hot summer’s day, we ran up these burning hot stairs of the Thai monastery.

3. A view of the gardens beside the monastery and the monastery itself in the background.

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Next to the Thai monastery was a Theravadin temple built by the Mahabodhi Society of India.

Work on this started in 1996 on 1.5 acres of land.

Surrounded by plentiful mango groves, the structure is very modest. I thought it was most in line with the original plan of Kenzo Tange, to have simple structures representing Buddhism around the world. Beautiful repousse work depicting the life of the Buddha adorns the main hall. Here again, Rabindra made the most of the facilities by cooling

off under the single fan and making funny noises until the guard chased him out.

The next plot is reserved by the Bengal Buddhist Association for construction of their Theravadin temple which has not begun yet. Adjacent to it is the beautiful Theravada temple built by the Myanmar government also known as the Lokamani Cula Pagoda. Work started in 1993, but despite the grandeur of its single golden spire, the surrounding area failed to impress us. Here too, a circular, covered pathway leads around the central stupa, with seating areas to perhaps meditate on. The temple is built on five acres of land. The main stupa is actually a magnificent replica of the Burmese Swedagoan pagoda. Adjacent to the Burmese temple is the Nepalese temple built by International Bhikshuni Association. Built on 1.5 acres of land the compound houses nuns. In front of the accommodation is a large, rather nice pond surrounded by overgrown bushes.

I thought it was most in line with the original plan of Kenzo Tange, to have simple structures representing Buddhism around the world.

1. The simple exterior of the Theravadin temple built by the Mahabodhi Society of India.

2. The impressive golden spire at the Burmese site.

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1. The resort like, calming design of the Sri Lankan monastery.

2. The main Buddha idol at the Sri Lankan site atop a raised stage.

3. Depictions of the life of the Buddha on the walls of the monastery.

On December the 1st of 1998, the Sri Lankan government commenced the construction of a Sri Lankan temple, Sri Lanka Maha Vihara in this zone. Bearing the hot sun, we finally got here, our cycles crunching hard against the thick layer of gravel on the roads. The Sri Lankan temple has a rather resort like feel, with visible wooden rafters and water bodies. The mural on the front depicts the life of the Buddha wonderfully while the main golden Buddha idol is a peaceful imposing presence atop the structure.

During the period from 2006 to 2008 the construction work had been neglected and several appeals were made to the Sri Lankan Government through the Sri Lankan Ambassador in Nepal for the com-

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mencement of the pending work. Later, Sri Lankan pilgrims to Lumbini accidentally met Ven. Dr. Rambukwelle Chandrarathana Thero, visited the monastery, and were shocked to see the state of affairs of the complex. They invited the chief abbot to Sri Lanka and subsequently held a meeting with high officials to explain the incomplete status of the monastery and invited them to pay a visit. Invitation accepted, a delegation headed by Hon. Minister Chamal Rajapaksha visited the monastery complex. Pretty soon work was restarted. Presently, with the President of Sri Lanka as the Patron and also the Chairman of the Sri Lanka Monastery Development trust of Lumbini in Nepal, the complex seems more or less complete. Nearby, the Vipassana meditation centre is under construction. mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to

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1. Notice the detail work on the walls and the wooden pillars at the front.

2. The simple design of the Manang Samaj Gompa.

The cool, spacious interior of the still under construction Nepali monastery.

The ceiling is a beautiful blue, imitating the Tarai skies.

Two days had passed since we arrived in Lumbini. Come day three, we set out early, hoping perhaps to be back in the cool of our hotel rooms before noon. The harsh sun had already given us all terrible headaches the day before, dampening our spirits. Cycling to the crossroads where the road divides into two, to the east and west monastic zones, we took a moment to inspect the Eternal Peace Flame. Former king Gyanendra Shah lit this torch of eternal peace here in commemoration of the international year of peace in 1986. The flame, I thought was quite a fitting symbol here of all places to symbolize a desire if not the ideal condition for world peace.

The West Monastic Zone has been set aside for about 15 Mahayana monasteries of which most are under construction. Starting at the Eternal Peace Flame, we followed the dirt road along the west

bank of the pond to the Panditarama International Vipassana Meditation Centre. Heading north, a track turns west to the Drubgyud Chรถling Gompa, a classic Tibetan-style gompa built in 2001 by Buddhists from Singapore and Nepal. The mural work inside is quite refined and a gigantic stupa is under construction next door. A small track veers south to the tasteful Manang Samaj Gompa, an imposing giant chรถrten (Tibetan reliquary stupa) constructed by Buddhists from Manang in northern Nepal. Surrounded by greenery, the premise also houses a small pond. The Nepali monastery nearby is a work in progress. A replica of the Swoyambhunath stupa in Kathmandu, the inside of the huge stupa is a huge hall with a blue sky like ceiling and cool, white marble floors. Taking center stage is a standing statue of the Buddha atop a small shaded stage.

The Shanti Deep, or the Peace Flame at the junction from which the area is divided into the east and west monastic zones.

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A serene looking statue of the Buddha takes center stage at the Nepali monastery.

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1. The typical Chinese architecture at the Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist

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2. A gold polished structure of a Chinese warrior at the monastery.

3. Characters from Chinese mythology holding musical instruments and weapons at the entrance to the monastery.

4. The unfinished Korean monastery structure. It has been accused of going against regulations that maintain a certain maximum height for the structures.

5. Flowers in bloom at the Korean monastery premises. The area is full of such trees.

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Next is the Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist Monastery built by the Chinese spending more than four million pounds and completed in September 1998. The buildings are made in typical Chinese architectural style. I had been here before with some friends when it had been quite new. The present site has weathered significantly. Taking if you are traveling to china, unbelievable offer is waiting for you.. for more info, Log in to www.eticketnepal.com

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photos of the main idols of the monastery is forbidden but apparently scribbling on the walls of this beautiful structure is not. The walls of the shaded pathway that surround the central courtyard are full of doodles professing undying love, courtesy of visiting locals. The central courtyard, the Chinese style buildings and the chanting sounds coming from inside the main hall reminded me of a Chinese movie set. The main hall is constructed in a typical pagoda style with low slanting roofs and huge statues of the Buddha in a meditating pose.

The state of disrepair here is disheartening. In comparison to other places, the garden and the area in general seemed quite unattended to. Still, the sound of the Chinese monks in white robes, beating softly on drums and chanting was definitely a calming factor. At the entrance of the monastery stand huge images of Chinese warriors, guardians perhaps to the inner sanctuary.

The first monastery to be built in this zone however is the Vietnamese monastery, Phat Quoc Tu on 6.25 acres of land. The traditional Vietnamese architectural buildings and 25 meter tall structure is quite a sight. It is however still under construction. Nearby is the Dae Sung Suk Ga Sa Korean Buddhists’ monastery. While the main hall is still under construction, the guesthouse is already complete. Standing tall, the Korean monastery even at such an early stage looks quite a sight with its intricate design. When completed, the site is sure to be a major attraction. For now, the premises were abuzz with tourists who can check in for budget accommodation. Rooms are available here for as low as NRs.500 for three people with shared bathrooms. Looking at the basic prices here, I made a mental note to come here with friends in the winter and stay at this peaceful and more suited mode of accommodation.

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Rabindra had warned us before that once we got in, we would not want to leave the entire day. He was quite right.

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The sight of young Tibetan monks, pelting stones at a mango tree isn’t a common one. One was atop the wall of the beautiful German monastery, also called the Great Drigung Kagyud Lotus Stupa.

Built by the Tara Foundation, the attention to detail here, in every aspect of the monastery, is awe inspiring. Rabindra had warned us before that once we got in, we would not want to leave the entire day.

He was quite right. After hopping up steps that were super hot from the mid day sun, the cool of the marble comforted immediately. Atop the main hall is an intricately designed, colorful stupa, with an idol of the Buddha inside a glass casing. Prayer tables and glass cases with small Buddha statues take up

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most of the space in the main hall. What is most striking is the ceiling-full of fascinating Buddhist artwork popular for its detail and symmetrical style.

A simpler, framed Thangka takes months to make - this was a ceiling-full of a full sized hall. Even the sides of the monastery have not been spared of artwork. The walls on all four sides are beautifully decorated with images of Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath and detailed descriptions of the chakra cycle of life. The surrounding landscaped gardens are no less amazing. In life size models, the sloping gardens surrounding the monastery have depictions of the life of the Buddha from the time he was born to his death. Also within the premises are small ponds with live fish and also fountains and miniature animals. The stupa and its surrounding gardens are a sight for sore eyes, no less than an oasis in the dry Tarai expanse. Behind the German monastery is the Sokyo Gompa, a traditional Tibetan-style gompa built by the Japanese Sokyo Foundation. The new Linh Son Monastery is being constructed by French Buddhists next door.

1. The detail of the grand entrance of the Tara Foundation’s German monastery.

2. A statue of Maya Devi laying on the grass in front of the German monastery.

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1. The extraordinarily beautiful German monastery.

2. A large prayer wheel in the surrounding gardens of the monastery.

3. An art of dragon 4. The detail work on the inside of the monastery.

5. Notice the painstakingly completed art work on the ceiling.

6. The young prince before he gave up all earthy desires for the life of a monk.

7. The young prince before he gave up all earthy desires for the life of a monk.

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1. The young prince takes his first ride outside the comfort of his palace.

2. The prince witnesses pain and suffering and death for the first time.

The popular Japanese peace stupa in the Lumbini Village zone.

3. The prince cutting off his hair to start his new life.

4. The Buddha at first sat in meditation without eating.

5. The Buddha praying before he attained enlightenment.

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The Japanese pagoda, though isolated from the other stupas and monasteries, has become a beautiful site for pilgrims and tourists.

The New Lumbini Village Zone is purely allocated for the material world i.e. for residence, education, and social activities. It is in the northern part of Lumbini and is a gateway to Lumbini just before entering into the spiritual and sacred lands.

The zone has a rather hip looking museum with its modern, minimalistic design, libraries and International Buddhist Research Institute. The library and research center, although their buildings are ready, are still to be opened. Construction is underway for many hotels, guesthouses, a hospital and tourist centers. The five star Japanese Hotel Hokkei is already in service.

Also within this zone lies the World Peace Pagoda of Asia made by Japan, an addition to the original master plan. The site sadly also marks a hideous crime where a monk Navatame was murdered in 1997. However, since then, the pagoda has become a beautiful site for pilgrims and tourists.

The Japanese pagoda is isolated from the other stupas and monasteries, towards the end of the village zone. At the entrance is a lovely lotus pond, the clear skies beautifully reflected amongst the pink lotuses. A three tiered pearl white structure, balconies circle the central stupa with its golden Buddha idols in its various avatars. Adjacent to the peace pagoda is a meditation center.

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japanese pagoda in different perspectives

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Around Lumbini On the flipside of this amazing construction and vision of faith and people’s beliefs, is another reality. Abject poverty is rampant here. Young children wander around the Lumbini gardens trying to make a quick buck when they really should be in school. Teenagers pull on many times their weight on rickshaws, taking tourists around the gardens.

Rickshaw pullers line up at the gate of the garden, waiting for their turn to take in tourists; each rickshaw waits two weeks for its turn. Outside the garden premises, I noticed the dark Madhesi man who rented out cycles to us resting under the shade of a tree from beyond the garden’s wall. If this shade were also extended to developmental relief in the form of infrastructure for schools, agricultural works and better health services, Lumbini could really outdo itself.

Ironically, the master plan that Kenzo Tange drew up did have plans for developing the agricultural capacity for the villages in the area.

Ironically, the master plan that Kenzo Tange drew up did have plans for developing the agricultural capacity for the villages in the area. This however was scrapped, possibly because of budget constraints. The construction of cheap accommodation in the New Lumbini Village Zone was being accused of killing local entrepreneurship. How could locals possibly compete? I thought perhaps the locals ought not to compete with these accommodations for this precise reason. Maybe there were other things locals could do. We found some answers in a short tour of Mahilwar village, directly behind our hotel on the last day of our trip.

After cycling for a few kilometers, we rested under huge, dense Bodhi trees conversing with locals who too were resting after a hard day’s work. The harvest had been good and they expected a good earning. Buffaloes trampled over tori (mustard) plants, separating the tori seeds from the chaff.

Nearby, in a houseful of women none of whom would tell us their names, we watched them artfully weave plastic baskets in colors as colorful as their saris. A large basket, roughly a foot in diameter sells for NRs. 300. How long does it take to weave one this size? I asked a beautiful young mother. “It differs. I have a child who does not care about time tables. When I have to attend to him, it could take me weeks. Otherwise a week at most,” she said, her almond shaped eyes popping out against her dark face. They’d learnt it themselves they said, something which got me thinking. These women could set up cottage industries as a way to pass time

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more productively and also to supplement their husbands’ income. On the other hand, the hotels would definitely earn brownie points by using local products such as this. A simple workshop would be enough to train these women in making hand crafted items such as these, preferably with materials abundant in the area. This could mean items like table cloths, soap and decorative items. But who would do it? Who would take the initiative?

Wanting also to understand the state of education in the area, I asked about schools in the area and was directed towards two. One was run by a local volunteer group with land donated by a well off villager. Little children ran helter-skelter here, it was lunch time. When the bell rang for class the children obediently filed into their respective classes. In large choruses, they shouted out multiplication tables and a very fast version of ‘twinkle twinkle little star.’ One of the larger rooms had two classes going on at once, one in the front and one a little back. Another group of children, studied in the shade of a large Bodhi tree; plans to build a classroom for them were underway. In the government school, the attitude was starkly different.

The principal immediately put up a guard, perhaps mistaking my curiosity for criticism. Classes were to start the other day for the next session and book distribution was on. Many children had failed and would have to repeat the year again, putting in doubt if their parents would want to spend any more money on their education. A ‘ghar dailo’ program was to be launched where teachers would go to the village homes and encourage people to admit their children in school. Girl students made up almost 40% of the total number, I was told.

Drinking some cold water pulled from a hand pump and splashing some on face too, I looked at the village from where I was sitting. Beyond the trees in the distance were the sacred gardens, the monastic zones and the luxury hotels. On this side however was such a different reality. Tourists pour in to Lumbini in the winter, filling up the few good hotels and all the small lodges. But besides employment in the hotels, their own small lodges and shops, there is not really much that the development of the area as an international pilgrimage site has done for the local community here. This is especially sad because so much needs to be done here.

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1. Young students at a Madrassa in Mahilwar, a village near the Lumbini gardens.

2. An elderly woman finishes up a straw basket at home. The women sell these beautiful baskets at ridiculously low prices.

3. Although a lot of girl children go to school, most get married away quite early.

4. A sadhu in the same village. He loves off alms that villagers contribute.

A couple work at a manual fan in the midday sun.

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www.eticketnepal.com What are the primary objectives of Lumbini Development Trust?

Our main objectives are to make sure that the master plan drawn decades ago by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange are followed as sincerely as possible. Lumbini Development Trust was established solely with this aim.

Acharya Karma Sangbo Sherpa is Vice Chairman of Lumbini Development Trust (LDT), established in 2032 B.S. Travel Times talked to him about Lumbini Development Trust’s role in Nepali Tourism and how Lumbini as a town could be so much more. Excerpts from the interview:

Getting Lumbini: Take a 45-minute flight from TIA in Kathmandu to Gautam Buddha Airport in Bhairahawa or catch a bus that leaves from the Gongabu Bus Park. Bhairahawa can also be reached by bus from other parts of the country. Buses to Lumbini leave every hour or so from 6 am to 5 pm from Bhairahawa. It takes 40 minutes from Bhairahawa to reach Lumbini.

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What are some of the past and present activities of the trust?

The trust has been active in trying to go ahead with completing the work as soon as possible.

I would say that infrastructure wise 65% and financially 35% work of the work has been completed so far. The Lumbini Visitor Center, schools and other ventures are not complete yet and will require a huge investment. At the present rate, the project will be completed in no less than ten years.

What kind of hurdles has Lumbini Development Trust faced in the implementation of the plan?

We have not faced any hurdles so to say but as is the norm with any other large scale project, finances have been a problem as well as circumstantial problems too. One thing I would say that has hampered the rate of progress in Lumbini is the unstable government of Nepal. Changes in political appointments make it very inconvenient for work to go on uninterrupted.

Lumbini draws in many tourists to Nepal.

What role do you think Lumbini will pay for the upcoming Nepal Toursim year 2011? What kind of preparation is the

Where to stay: There are plenty of options for accommodations once you get to Lumbini. For budget accommodation, there are a large number of small lodges in the street directly in front of the main gate of the Lumbini Garden.

Reservations are not necessary here.

Room rates are upwards of NRs. 500.

There is also the Korean monastery which provides clean, cheap fares for its hostel like accommodation. Single rooms are NRs. 500 while a larger room can be shared for four or eight people for only NRs. 1000.

In a medium range is the Lumbini

trust making for it?

Lumbini is already pulling in at least 83,000 tourists annually, including internal tourists. I think for a site like Lumbini, which has such global appeal for obvious reasons the flow of tourists will surely increase. On the part of the trust, we are setting up an official desk representing the trust at Tribhuwan International Airport to disseminate proper information regarding Lumbini. I think the number of hotels in Bhairahawa and Lumbini itself can accommodate the increased flow of tourists.

Lumbini’s master plan is nothing short of spectacular? But the town hasn’t been able to benefit from such a huge project. What can LDT do for Lumbini the town?

As I said before, the role of the trust is to make sure the master plan is implemented sincerely.

As for development work in Lumbini, I am of the opinion that financial development is not synonymous to dharmic development or happiness. Most poor people for obvious reasons think that money will solve all their problems. This is seldom the case. But there is also a problem of attitude. In Nepal, there is a general tendency to wait for things to happen or for someone else to do things for you. Lumbini’s case is similar. I think the people there have great potential and if they believe in themselves, they can and should make things happen for themselves. The trust can however be an effective channel or even advisors for such works. The government should then facilitate these efforts.

Garden New Crystal Hotel, directly opposite the Lumbini garden and with well designed rooms and good food. AC rooms are available for NRs. 2200. For those who want to splurge, there is the Lumbini Hokke Hotel. The Hokke targets wealthy Japanese pilgrims who come to pray at the nearby World Peace Pagoda.

Rooms are available in Western and Japanese-styles with tatami floors, paper partitions and Japanese furniture. The restaurant serves topnotch Japanese set meals. (+977 71 580236)

www.welcomenepal.com

Together for Tourism

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health S tay i n g

while traveling in summer

Like everywhere else, temperatures are on the rise in Nepal. The mercury rose to 340 C in Kathmandu and Pokhara and nudged the forties in TErai towns.

It’s common for families to travel to cooler climes, perhaps to their native homes or even plan getaways to foreign locales. No matter where you go though, it’s important to know some tips on staying healthy while traveling in the summer.

Traveling in buses Buses remain an important means of transportation in Nepal. Traveling in buses in the summer can be quite a pain. Carry plenty of clean, cool water with you. If possible also carry non-perishable home cooked food items. A problem especially for ladies while traveling is the lack of toilet facilities. Many people try to minimize the problem by drinking less water. This may cause problems in the dry heat of the plains and lead to dehydration. If repeated this can increase the risk of bladder and kidney stones. Also, take full advantage of all opportunities to stretch your legs by taking a small walk when the bus stops.

Eating and drinking while on the move Be careful about what you eat and drink.

Roadside food and snacks are better avoided. Food preparation and storage conditions may leave much to be desired and food spoils quickly as the high summer temperatures promote growth of bacteria and other organisms. Freshly prepared food is best while food not properly stored can spoil quickly. Another problem is the ever present dust and flies; the latter can spread many diseases. In the summer, streams, wells and rivers go dry and water quality may be suspect. Bringing water to a rolling boil for about 15 seconds is enough to

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kill most disease-causing microbes. In case the water is turbid and has a large amount of organic matter, allow it to sediment and boil thoroughly before drinking. Store boiled water in clean containers to avoid recontamination. Fresh fruits and vegetables have to be washed thoroughly and peeled before eating. Salads are a major hazard as lettuce and green vegetables are often grown in dirty water and the crevices and uneven surface of the leaves makes dirt and microbes hard to remove. All raw food is to be soaked in an iodine solution and then washed with drinking water.

Be careful with meat Non-vegetarian food if not prepared properly can be a high risk item. Eat meat only if you are absolutely sure about hygiene otherwise stick to well cooked vegetarian food. Non-distilled alcoholic beverages like chhyang - home brewed liquor made by fermenting rice, may have been prepared using unsafe water increasing risk of diseases. While eating beef or pork ensure it has been cooked properly to reduce the risk of tape worms and other parasitic infestations. Well done may be safer than rare while ordering steaks and hamburgers. Yoghurt and curd is full of commensal bacteria which do not allow harmful bacteria to colonize your gut and the acidic pH discourages growth of many microbes.

Staying cool in the heat Clothing plays an important role in staying cool in the summer. Light colored natural fabrics especially cotton and loose fitting clothes are recommended. A light colored hat with a wide brim is very useful. Stay in the shade as far as possible and avoid prolonged exposure to the harsh midday sun. To avoid damage to the skin, apply sun screens and sun blocks. As mentioned in a previous issue use preparations with a high sun protection factor (SPF). If you

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By Dr. Ravi Shankar Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.

plan to do a lot of walking, invest in a pair of comfortable walking shoes and wear them with cotton socks. Use sun glasses with ultraviolet protection. Take periodic breaks in a cool and shady spot. To maintain energy level consume carbohydrates, fresh fruits and vegetables. Drink plenty of water. As a rough rule of thumb if your urine is not dark colored it means you are drinking enough water.

Diseases of the summer Gastrointestinal problems, viral fever, food poisoning and amebiasis are common problems during summer. Keep oral rehydration salts (ORS) handy and be familiar with how to reconstitute it. The skin takes a major beating during the summer.

Fungal infections affecting mostly the groin and breast regions are more common. Keep such areas dry to reduce risk.

Change inner wear frequently and ensure they are washed properly. Cotton inner wear is strongly recommended. Because of excessive sweating and dust, the pores of the sweat gland which open on the skin get blocked causing ‘prickly heat’, small eruptions on the skin.

Heat strokes Heat strokes occur when the human body’s self cooling mechanism fails after contact with the sun for a prolonged period. The inability to produce sweat by a dehydrated person could also cause increased risk of heat stroke as the body temperature rises rapidly. The symptoms are weakness, vomiting, headache, dizziness, high body temperature, unconsciousness, high pulse rate and difficulty in breathing among others.

Following these simple precautions will assure you have an uneventful (health-wise) trip. Enjoy your summer getaway!

mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to

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An h UR WITH

Yogendra Shakya Yogendra Shakya, National Coordinator for Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is on the hot seat. Can the million tourists’ target that NTY 2011 has set be achieved?

Travel Times met him for a brief tête-àtête at his Hotel Ambassador about his work and the life that’s got him where he is today.

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Let’s dive straight into the numbers game. WhY the one million tourists’ target? Are we going for quantity over quality?

First of all, Nepal has never been a quality destination. And we have never really marketed it as a product. Looking back at the history of Nepali tourism, this is pretty clear. We never advertised Nepal as a tourist destination. During the 70’s, due to the free availability of drugs here, hippies poured in.

So we opened up restaurants and lodges to accommodate them. Soon these tourists discovered trekking trails and temples and so tourism grew and we went with the flow, building our infrastructure as and when needed. So with NTY 2011, it is more about rebranding the country with the added features of certainty and security which Nepal has been tagged with due to the Maoist insurgency. As for the number, it is something ex-minister Hisila Yami came up with and I don’t know what formula she used for it. One good thing that hap-

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pened was that with the change in government, our target with this campaign did not change and we gave it continuity which does not always happen in such situations.

So is NTY 2011 the first product for tourism that Nepal is marketing?

Not really. I like to call it a by-product actually – of Jana Andolan 2. With the end of the monarchy and the Maoists coming to power, the Maoist government promoted the need for an economic revolution. The first venture in this was to promote tourism which has taken a bad hit due to several things - the decade long civil war, a bloody royal massacre and a country severely bruised by bad politics and poor security situation. The private sector rightfully thought that a ‘rebranding’ of the country was essential to give a loud and clear message to the international community that Nepal is now ready and all set for tourism. This is why the huge launching of ‘Together for Tourism’ was so important with everyone from the Prime Minister to the political parties committing to do everything they can to make NTY 2011 a success. This included a commitment from the political parties that they would refrain from organizing country wide closures as well as one from entrepreneurs who promised to ‘invest to create revenue and employment’.

Nepal as a great destination for ‘Events and Activities’, such as conferences, workshops, parties and the like. Along with this we have also started work enhancing present infrastructure and chartered new destinations and trekking routes. Part three of the campaign is ‘Promotion and Marketing’ with major targets beings India for 260,000, China for 100,000 and European countries for 250,000 tourists. The government and the private sector are partnering on this as builders.

There are people who dream about impractical goals regarding this campaign and there is the pessimistic bunch. So simply put, as National Coordinator, my work is to co-ordinate between these two groups.

The private sector rightfully thought that a ‘rebranding’ of the country was essential to give a loud and clear message to the international community that Nepal is now ready and all set for tourism.

A million targets sound too good to be true. How exactly are you going about with reaching this target and what are your responsibilities as National Coordinator?

Yes, a million is a big number. But what skeptics need to understand is that a million is the target so if we get 700,000 tourists to come in 2011, we will not have failed because it will still be much better than the numbers from last year. And this is an ongoing process; maybe we will reach that target in 2012 or 2013. It is just high time we set a target and set out to achieve it. The homework for achieving this goal is happening as we speak.

There is a main committee and 14 sub committees that look after different components of the plan.

The entire campaign has been divided into three parts. Part one of this strategy was the launching of the slogan ‘Together for Tourism’ and gathering the necessary support. If this would not have gone ahead smoothly, we would have ended the campaign there and then. The second part of the campaign is capacity building and product development. This includes airlines and airports for 700,000, land connections for the rest 300,000 and hotel and home stay for the entire million tourists. With product development we are advertising

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So what got you here, to the post of National Coordinator? Tell us about how you got into the business and your early days.

We really need to come ‘together for tourism’ in order for tourism to really take off and achieve its full potential.

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I never planned on working in the hotel industry actually. In my case, it was literally an accident that got me into it. I had had an accident and was in Valore for a checkup. Afterwards I was to start in an engineering school. But I met a friend who had studied engineering and who really discouraged me from going into engineering and rather suggested I look into a hotel management course. At that time Kathmandu Guest House was operating with 13 rooms and tourism had not really taken off here. Also because of my health, I thought hotel management would be less strenuous so I got enrolled. Little did I know that it would require me to do housekeeping and clean the dishes too! So I slogged like a laborer for three years there, met the woman whom I would later marry and then did a Post Graduate Diploma from Italy in Tourism Management. And when I finally came home, I could see a bigger picture. With time I came to understand the politics of this industry and joined HAN at an early age too. I did a lot of work without financial remuneration. Working with people and

building that kind of PR is very important. All of this got me here and I think gave me an edge over others to be qualified for this work.

You’ve spent your entire adult life in this sector and Nepal has been through many trials and tribulations in this time. What do you think the tourism sector still has not learnt that it needs to, to really blossom?

See if we were to continually blame each other for whatever is wrong with the tourism sector or the country, no progress would ever happen here. If I blame others for my shortcomings, I would never take the initiative to improve myself. This is what plagues the country and its developmental plans today. Over these years, I have always seen nine people chasing down one person for a deal. In the end, no one gets the deal and no one really benefits from it. So all of us lose the possible business we would have got from the deal. This needs to change. We really need to see the bigger picture and not fight over petty things. We really need to come ‘together for tourism’ in order for tourism to really take off and achieve its full potential.

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hotels&casinos

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shangri-la h o t e l

&

r e s o r t

The fabled paradise on earth, a place of complete bliss and delight. A hard name to live up to, but even though situated smack-dab in the middle of a bustling and impatient city, Hotel Shangri-la does exactly that.

Text by Yesha Malla

Hotel Shangri-la is the brainchild of visionary Shyam Bahadur Pandey, who dreamt of opening a hotel that was more a home away from home than an impersonal mercenary hotel. He was assisted by Desmond Doig, and the two joined efforts in building the perfect paradise. Shangri-la was lovingly planned and constructed, and finally opened in 1979. It is of no surprise that Shyam Bahadur Pandey then enlisted Desmond Doig to help him run the hotel together. Over MAY - JUN 2010

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the years, the hotel has maintained its initial objective of being a cozy yet sophisticated place that transcends traditional and modern differences.

Located just seven km from the airport, in the Embassy district and minutes away from Thamel, Kathmandu’s tourist hub, Hotel Shangri-la welcomes all guests to stay in lush, grand comfort.

ing streets of Kathmandu. The seemingly somber walls of the hotel hide a warm interior with beautiful art and ornate dĂŠcor.

Ushered welcomingly into the spacious lobby lit up in warm lights, you may see receptionists helping guests feel at home and hotel staff helping travelers get familiar with the sights and sounds of the country. All in all, a hotel that really cares.

As soon as you step into the premises of Hotel Shangri-la, you forget the busy and harass-

Hotel Shangri-la mainly caters to a corporate clientele who wish to work in a peaceful and

quiet environment or merely take a breather from work. Who says one can’t mix business with pleasure? Hotel Shangri-la has a business center that provides state-of-the-art facilities. It also boasts of the Desmond Doig Room, a library-cum-lounge, and the Sammelan and Baithak halls. These are special meeting rooms that the hotel mostly rents out for business conferences and meetings, furnished complete with international standard conference equipment such as lecterns, 35 mm

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slide projectors and public address systems. But Shangri-la is definitely not only for businessmen. The hotel is familyfriendly as well as a popular place for couples and friends.

The Lost Horizon Bar, playing up the Shangri-la theme, serves drinks for every occasion: cocktails, mock tails, and specialty drinks with adventurous names like ‘The High Lama’.

Hotel Shangri-la aims to provide the ultimate luxury experience to all its guests. Upholding its 5-star status, the hotel provides comfortable yet simplistic rooms that are furnished for optimum comfort and convenience. The rooms offered which were categorized earlier as Superior have recently been upgraded to Deluxe Rooms.

The latter is reserved exclusively for floor guests and includes a Club lounge. With muted colors and intricate woodwork, Shangri-la‘s rooms have a simple elegance.

The Shambala Garden Café is perhaps the most special of all the dining experiences the hotel offers if just for the reason

that it overlooks an amazing garden. With a quaint coffee shop and Illy coffee counter nearby, the award-winning garden is full of neat, sparklinggreen lawns and multi-hued flowers. Meandering paths lined by flowerpots lead to hidden alcoves under serene trees. An afternoon spent at the gardens can be an enjoyable

experience in its own right; parents and children playing games and laughing in the sun, couples enjoying some quality time with each other, business associates discussing projects while sipping on tea, even people lazing around, indulging in a good book and perhaps some pastries from the nearby “Coffee and Cakes Shop”.

With a quaint coffee shop nearby, the award-winning garden is sprawling with neat sparkling-green lawns, multi-hued flowers: nature at its very best.

Hotel Shangri-la is a pioneer in imaginative and multicultural dining, offering guests gastronomical treats from around the world prepared in its own kitchen. Saffron, an authentic Indian restaurant at Shangrila, offers you magical delights with its delicious sub continental cuisine full of heady flavors and spicy aromas. The food, the ambience, the traditional music; everything is reminiscent of an age old, proud culture.

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People with the misconception that Hotel Shangrila is a standard, corporate hotel will be pleasantly surprised once they visit this manmade paradise.

But what Shangri-la would be complete without a place for recreation? Hotel Shangri-la offers a huge red clay tennis court for tennis enthusiasts, a fully equipped health club, fitness centre and sauna and the Elles Salon De Beauty for some indulgent pampering. There’s even a play-garden for children of all ages with swings, seesaws, mini golf, and the ubiquitous slide. The gardens lead off to a secluded space that houses the hotel swimming pool, named Sundhara for the three

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snake -adorned golden taps at its front. Fashioned after an ancient brick and stone-carved royal bath from 16th century Kathmandu, the huge swimming pool is surrounded by trees and high walls, providing privacy to swim away into blissful oblivion. Children splash around in the water while adults sunbathe in deck chairs nearby or head off for some private time in the spa and sauna near the pool. The exquisite spa which is run by “Healing Hands” offers a uniquely cul-

tured, nurturing and optimal pampering environment with an aroma of exotic flowers all around, rejuvenating our body, mind and soul.

People with the misconception that Hotel Shangri-la is a stuffy, corporate hotel will be pleasantly surprised once they visit this man-made paradise.

Hotel Shangri-la’s continued effort to live up to its name is evident in its beauty, its immaculate maintenance and its professional service. The

lifelong ambitions of its founders Shyam Bahadur Pandey and Desmond Doig are still carried out today with utmost diligence. The recent heavy renovations and upgrades have made the hotel even better.

With its sister Shangri-la Village Resort in Pokhara, Hotel Shangrila Kathmandu strives to and marvelously succeeds in giving the traveler the best of Nepal in beauty, warmth and hospitality.

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Savor the flavour of

Russia Russia The largest country in the world by area, but it is no less famous for its hearty cuisine and the ability of its people to indulge in copious amounts of alcohol.

Text by Yesha Malla Photos Courtesy Wunjala Moskva, Naxal & Chimney, Hotel Yak & Yeti

The surest way to know a country, its peoples and its culture is to join them for dinner. What better way to explore a people’s traditions and way of living than through their food? Globalization has allowed you to now savor any cuisine in any part of the world or even in the comforts of your own home. Also, the recipes of one nation have influenced and been influenced by cuisines from around the world. Still, food and the way it is prepared and sometimes even tales of its origin can remind one of and identify a particular people, a particular place. Think of sushi, you think Japan.

Picture dal-bhat and you think of Nepal.

Such are the associations that build up over time.

Now Russia may be famous for its extremely cold weather, its statuesque people, and the fact that it is the largest country in the world by area, but it is no less famous for its hearty cuisine and the ability of its people to indulge in copious amounts of alcohol. Think Borscht MAY - JUN 2010

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soup, beetroot salad and lots of vodka, think Russian cuisine! The cuisine itself like any other has evolved through the ages with the help of various influences. Originally, the typical Russian meal was plain peasant fare, consisting of cereal and vegetables that thrived in the cold climate of Russia - fish, mushrooms, milk products and very rarely, some meat. The Vikings introduced herring and preserving techniques to Russia in the 9th century. The Mongol-Tatar invaders in the 13th century brought with them the samovar (a tea-making/serving vessel), spices, techniques for grilling meat, making sour clotted milk and pickling cabbage (sauerkraut). Pasta, frozen desserts (gelato and sherbet), pastries, and vodka were introduced to the Russian diet from Italy. French, Austrian and German cuisines were introduced and adapted to Russian cuisine during the reign of Peter the Great. In Soviet times, Russian cuisine accumulated numerous national dishes of the Soviet republics

such as Ukranian vareniki, Uzbek pilaf, Georgian dolma and chakhokhbili.

With cold winds and snow beating at your windows, it isn’t hard to picture traditional Russian families settling in cozy rooms for a warm meal of hot steaming stew full of chunks of meat and cabbage, and hot stuffed buns fresh from the oven, with starters of soup and salads, and fortifying cups of tea or alcohol. Russian cuisine is strongly influenced more by its weather and rough terrain than by external cultural influences. The long and cold winters meant that filling, starchy food such as coarse dark bread made from rye, potatoes and porridges made from various grains always made it to the dinner table.

Peasants indulged in the hearty “one pot” suppers that were usually in the form of a soup ranging from a thin broth consisting of mainly water and vegetables to a substantial stew-like affair with added fish or meat. Vodka was cherished for its instant warming abilities.

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Kasha Russian staple - porridge made of buckwheat

A typical day in Russia, gastronomy-wise, as expected consists of three major meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner. Later in the evening some families may have a very tiny meal usually of fruits or vegetable salads. For breakfast, or zavtrak as it’s called in Russia, people traditionally have tea and kasha, which is a kind of porridge typically made from buckwheat and topped with sour cream or even meats, fish or berries. Neither tea nor kasha is limited to breakfast. Tea is drunk in massive amounts throughout the day and is considered so important and symbolic of warmth and hospitality that no dinner party is considered complete without a samovar tea ceremony. Kasha is an essential part of every meal and when topped with various foods, is a dish suitable and preferred for special occasions such as harvest feasts, weddings, birthdays and even funerals. “You can’t feed a Russian without kasha,” goes a Russian saying.

Russians believe that for energy to do work well throughout the day, you need to have a big meal, so pancakes made of buckwheat, huge omelets made from two or three eggs, and sandwiches consisting of cured or salted meats are common and are eaten in large amounts. Black rye bread is a staple of any Russian meal and is certainly eaten at breakfast. Heavy and meaty, with a characteristic ‘sour’ taste, Russian rye bread is nearly hearty enough to be a meal in and of itself. It’s the perfect bread to offset salted meats, pickled cabbage and sauerkraut. Toasted and slathered with butter, it’s the perfect breakfast to start a day off well, and dipped in soup, it adds texture and flavor to anything from the thinnest broth to the thick, hearty stews of the northern steppes.

Lunch, called obed, is the largest meal of the day and is commonly consumed at mid-day. It consists of several courses and is often accompanied with vodka. Lunch always begins with a salad, which is considered an appetizer and is called zakuska (‘light snack’). Russian salads are much heavier than salads in the West with hearty portions of pickled or fresh vegetables – especially cabbage - salted meats or poached fish and dressings made of mayonnaise or sour cream. The most popular salads in Russia are potato salad, vinegret – a salad with a tangy dressing of vinegar and vegetable oil - red-beet salad and Salade Olivie or Russian salad, a particularly famous salad made of diced boiled potatoes, dill pickles, peas, vegetables and meat dressed in mayonnaise.

After the salad starter comes the soup course, called pervoe blyudo. Soup is a very important component in Russian cuisine and sometimes doubles as the main entrée in harder times. There are soups for every season and occasion, of every type: cold soups, light soups, creamy ones, noodle based, fish stews and vegetable soups.

The most popular is the Borscht soup, the national soup of Russia with flavorful diced meat and vegetables on a meat-based broth unusually tinted pink by beetroots and garnished with a generous dollop of sour cream. Similar to gazpacho, it tastes tangy with its sweetness from beets and tartness from sour cream, and is exceptionally versatile—it can be vegetarian or meaty, served hot or cold. Another common soup is “shchi”, a hearty cabbage soup that includes potatoes, pickles, herbs, and meat. Soup is usually served with some fresh bread and sour cream.

pervoe blyudo Roughly translated ‘first dish’, the soup course of Russian dinners.

Borscht Soup Famed beetroot soup bursting with color and flavor

Shchi Versatile hot cabbage soup

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Dinner, called Uzhin in Russian, is a warm familial affair, more of a celebration punctuated with toasts, stories and laughter.

Shashlik

vtoroe blyudo The hearty main course of russian dinners

pelmini tasty earshaped dumplings with every filling imaginable

Blinis Thin savory or sweet pancakes with various toppings

Piroshki Hot buns stuffed with cabbage, meat and vegetables

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The last course of the mid-day meal is the main entrée, vtoroe blyudo. This course is often built around red meat or fish and is served with two side dishes of roasted or pickled vegetables and garner which consists of cabbage, potatoes or kasha. The most common traditional main dish is the Pelmeni. Roughly translated as “ear shaped bread” it is a type of dumpling stuffed with meats, mashed potatoes, mushrooms or other vegetables and cheeses, akin to our own momos. The dish is served with butter, sour cream or vinegar.

Dinner, called Uzhin in Russian, is a warm familial affair, more of a celebration punctuated with toasts, stories and laughter. It is traditionally a much smaller meal than the midday meal and only consists of a variety of zakuskas and hot tea or vodka. An assortment of salads, caviar, pickles and cured savories is served. Kotlety Pozharskie is ground chicken cutlets prepared with lots of butter. Shashlik is meat marinated in a mix of onions, spices and lemon juice or white wine and grilled and skewered with slices of onion.

Zharkoe is a rich stew made of vegetables and meat in white sauce broiled in a special clay pot and topped with cheese. Blinis, thin Russian pancakes filled with meat, fish, caviar, vegetables or

plain sour cream and pirozhki, small stuffed buns filled with boiled meat, rice, eggs, sautéed fish, mashed potatoes, cabbage or mushrooms served fresh from the oven are very popular. Sweet versions of blinis and pirozhki contain stewed or fresh fruit, jam or cottage cheese and are served as dessert.

Speaking of dessert, Russians love everything sweet, eating bite after bite of chocolate and homemade sweets with gusto. The very extensive dessert course consists of an assortment of pies, cookies, candies, cakes and gingerbread. Rich layered tortes are composed of sweet butter creams and nuts in between sheets of cake. Russians are also fond of Baked Alaskas. Candy is often just as rich, made of nuts, marzipan, dried fruit or wafers dipped in dark chocolate. Homemade favorites include vareniki, dumplings filled with fruit or sweet cheese, medianyk, a wonderful honey cake spiced with ginger, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon, and kissel, pieces of stewed fruit thickened with cornstarch and milk poured over it.

No dinner is complete without beverages and Russian cuisine has its own brand of drinks to choose from. Besides the strong vodka that Russians love to indulge in, there are drinks made from berries and honey that are equally popular. Medovukha is a light, special blend of vodka and honey. Mors is made of berry juice. Kvass is a refreshing summer beverage made from fermenting rye bread which can be sweetened with honey or berries.

It is an ingredient in many soups. Shiten is a hot winter drink made of honey and spices. After the meal, hot sweetened tea is served frequently from a samovar as part of the famed Russian tea ceremony. The samovar is a traditional Russian teapot used to make strong black tea that is served with sweet rolls, jams, chocolates and homemade cakes.

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Vareniki Variation of dumplings filled with anything from fruit to meat

Medianyk Sweet and spicy honey cake

Besides the strong vodka that Russians love to indulge in, there are drinks made from berries and honey that are equally popular.

Kissel Sweet and tangy fruit dessert

Kvass One of the national alcoholic beverages of Russia

Shiten A warming drink of honey and spices

Russian cuisine is rich, healthy and full of unique flavorful foods prepared lovingly. No wonder it has become popular all over the world, even in Nepal. It was first introduced in Nepal by Boris Lissanovich, a man we fondly call the “father of tourism in Nepal” and who assisted in opening the Chimney Restaurant. The Chimney Restaurant serves Russian specialties such as Russian Borscht Soup, Chicken a la Kiev, chicken breasts pounded and rolled around cold garlic butter with herbs then breaded and fried, and Tenderloin stroganoff, a rich stew of meat and vegetables, using his recipes. Wunjala Moskva, a Russian-Newari café founded by Mrs. Gayatri Kansakar to spread the joys and flavors of Russian food as she had experienced in Russia herself, serves delicious salads, zharkoe stews and pirozhki - a full Russian fare. More Russian themed cafes are cropping up all over Kathmandu. So if you can’t go to Russia to taste their version of the momos or need an excuse to drink vodka all day long and want to taste something new, delicious and fascinating, you know where to go!

Russian etiquette: • When you are invited to a Russian house, bring a gift to the family specifically for the hostess. A bottle of wine, cake, box of candy or bouquets of flowers are traditional. A small gift for the child is always appropriate.

• Always take off your shoes at the front door.

• The oldest or most honored guest is served first.

• Do not begin eating until the host/hostess asks you to start.

• Men pour drinks for women seated next to them.

• Leaving a small amount of food on your plate indicates that your hosts have provided ample hospitality.

• It is improper to look into another’s plate or saucer.

• Small food should not be cut.

• Do not cross your legs with the ankle on the knee or put your feet on the furniture. It’s impolite to show people the soles of your shoes.

• Do not get up until you are invited to leave the table. At formal dinners, the guest of honor is the first to get up from the table. Tea and conversation is done at the table after the meal.

• There will be toasts. Your host/hostess will begin.

In Russia, vodka is served straight and taken as a shot.

• It is impolite for you to fail to offer a toast honoring your host/hostess and thanking them for the gracious invitation into their home.

• Do take bites of food in between sipping vodka.

To not do so is bad form. And it will help absorb the alcohol.

Priyatnovo Apetita!

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68 | Recommended restaurants&Bars 365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 2110800 Speciality: Arabian Baryo Fiesta Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4414395 Speciality: Tandoori, Taas

Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Bar Chhetrapati Tel:4212730 Speciality: Italian/Indian Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Nepali, Continental

Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Dillibazar Tel: 4411603 Speciality: Nepali

HADOCK DINING & BAR Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5546431 Speciality: Wings Momo

Bhumi The Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4412193 Speciality: Newari

Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Thamel Tel:4422519 Speciality: Multi

Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Restaurant Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4721939 Speciality: Various Veg Tastes

Hot Breads New Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Confectionery

Bourbon Room Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental

Kausi Kitchen Restaurant & Bar Woodland Complex Tel: 4227288 Speciality: Multi

Cafereena Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4231313 Speciality: Thai, Multi

Khing Thai Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel:4244378 Speciality: Thai

Café de Patan Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 Speciality: Newari Foods

Koto Restaurant Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine

Chez Caroline Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070 Speciality: French

K-Too Bear & Steak House Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Thai La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel:4700612 Speciality: Italian

Delicatessen Center & Cafe Durbar marg Tel:4221331 Speciality: Multi

Road House Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5520524 Speciality: Italian

Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Indian Factory Thamel Tel: 4701185 Speciality: Multi Fire And Ice Thamel Tel:4250210 Speciality: Italian Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Bouddha, Kathmandu Tel: 2140277 Speciality: Chinese Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Teku Tel:4260630 Speciality: Multi

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www.eticketnepal.com Layaku Restaurant Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Multi

Royal Thai Restaurant New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai

Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Thamel Tel:2191729 Speciality: Italian

Rum Doodle Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4701107 Speciality: Steak & Pizza

Matsuri Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4229032 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese

Seoul Arirang Korean Restaurant Nagpokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4429052 Speciality: Korean

Mike’s Breakfast Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Moods Studio Lounge Blue Bird Mall Tel:4215740 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Nepali Chulo Restaurant Durbar Marg Tel:4220475 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tel: 4414383 Speciality: Organic Foods Pizza Express Lazimpat Tel:2161212 Speciality: Pizza Rice & Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel:4260677 Speciality: Chinese Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 01-6914930 Speciality: Australian Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-230890 Speciality: Indian, Continental

Shisha Terrace Cafe and Bar Thamel Tel:4701104 Speciality: Multi Shogun Japanese Restaurant Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263720 Speciality: Japanese Tamas SPA Lounge JP Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4257658 Speciality: Multi Tukuche Thakali Kitchen Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4225890 Speciality: Authentic Nepali Tushita Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4432957 Speciality: Continental, Nepali Wunjala Moskva Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Newari, Russian Speciality: Israeli, Arabia

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Snowboarding One More Reason to Hit The Mountains Words and Photos by Richard Ragan

I

t’s really no surprise that extreme sports do so well in Nepal. After all, this is the land of the Gurkha soldiers, famed worldwide for their unparalleled courage.

But extreme sports here also make up a good contrast to a more traditional culture and lifestyle that is still existent in most parts of the country. Bungee jumping, kayaking, paragliding, mountaineering, rock climbing – we thought we’d seen it all. But we hadn’t.

Snowboarding – that spoilt, loud, bastard child of skiing has finally arrived in town.

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Skiing has always had tags like luxurious getaways, refined and proper attached to it. It’s always been associated with things you can do and things you can’t. Not snowboarding. Baggy clothes, loud music, freestyle tricks - the mountain is your mistress with nothing to stop you from doing what you want to. Hurtling down steep mountainsides, leaping off cliffs, kicking up a mini snowstorm and pulling off the unimaginable – this is what gets a snowboarder’s blood pumping.

Richard Ragan is an unlikely poster boy for snowboarding in Nepal. For one, Richard works as Country Representative for the United Nations World Food Program in Nepal. It’s the kind of work description which makes you picture an aging, bespectacled man whose idea of exercise is walk around the park and perhaps some golf on the weekends. Not so with Richard. The very amiable, progressive music loving Country Representative’s idea of fun is hurtling down some of the world’s largest peaks on a snowboard.

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TRAVEL TIMES met up with this adventurous guy and asked him about his daredevil ways.

What kind of potential do you see for Nepal in this sport?

The snowline here is pretty high so I don’t think the country will ever be able to develop traditional ski resorts. Backcountry or big-mountain riding with helicopters is really the only way to go. To make the sport marketable, a number of things have to change. First of all, the Government has to make it easier. For example, instead of issuing a 1-week permit restricted to a specific mountain range, they should consider issuing blanket permits for the season. Heliboarding/skiing isn’t like mountain climbing where the clients are fixed to a single mountain. You have to go where the snow and weather conditions are best and this can change very rapidly. By offering a blanket permit you get the flexibility to move through the whole range. As it stands now, we have to hassle with getting permits for each new group every week and the permit is always restricted to a single area.

And since we are basically chasing the weather, having to jump through complicated government procedures every week makes it hard to plan trips.

Essentially, the Ministry applies what they know which is sort of a “mountaineering permit” model and this doesn’t work for heliskiing. Secondly, for the sport to grow, I think it really has to be driven by outsiders. Other than mountain climbing, Nepali people don’t have a history of involvement with alpine sports. Over time this could be developed, but initially the expertise has to come from outside the country. This means that the government has to try and make it easy for outside experts to work.

Snowboarding sounds expensive. How much does a trip cost? Can Nepali people really afford it?

In general it’s an expensive sport -- using helicopters and riding in a place like Nepal makes it even more so. Trips here are all-inclusive and usually cost about $10,000 a week per person. Although those prices are likely to go up next year because helicopter rates have greatly increased.

You should only go with certified guides that know how to read avalanche danger and provide rescue services. There is also a great deal of safety gear one needs – avalanche beacons, probes, portable camp, gammo bags etc. Of course all this is what makes skiing here more expensive than at a resort. As to if Nepali people can afford it or not, if someone wants it bad enough, he/ she will find a way to do it. A few years ago, a group of women raised huge amounts of money to scale Everest so it can be done.

Where do you want to snowboard next? Any dream spots?

I’ve climbed on Manaslu for the last 2 seasons and there are places in Upper Gorkha I’d like to check out. Upper Dolpa, and Upper Humla both have lots of potential and are also pretty isolated so are great for the more adventurous kind. So far the Annapurna Sanctuary has been one of the best areas with riding opportunities on Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, and Annapurna 1. The Khumbu could be also great, but the mountains there are too exposed and tend to get more windblown.

How involved are you in bringing snowboarding to Nepal?

I am friends with a guy named Craig Calonica who is really the pioneer. He is a former climber, and former US ski team racer with over 30 years of experience. He also owns Himalayan Heli Ski Guides which is the only company in the world bringing clients on ski and snowboarding expeditions in Nepal. Over the last 4 years, I’ve tried to help Craig develop things here because I love the sport and I think he is doing something really revolutionary.

What has been your most memorable snowboarding adventure ever?

I guess probably getting caught in an avalanche on Annapurna South. We were shooting a movie for Nike ACG and an unstable slope cut loose on me. Luckily I was at the top of the slide and

Richard Ragan, working as Country Representative for the United Nations World Food Program in Nepal, is an initiator of Snowboarding in Nepal.

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www.eticketnepal.com just rode it out until it stopped. But for those 20 or 30 seconds, I thought I was done. The weather also closed in on us and we couldn’t see to move up or down. After a couple of hours the weather broke and the helicopter was able to fly in and rescue us.

Let’s talk a little about your personal life.

Where are you from originally? What are your favorite childhood memories?

I was born in Norfolk, VA where my Dad was stationed as a naval officer. We moved on to New Iberia, Louisiana, a place on the Gulf Coast more famously known as the home of Tabasco hot sauce. My father passed away when I was pretty young so we moved back to my mother’s hometown in the Mississippi Delta. When we arrived, everyone sort of adopted my baby sister and me so we basically had an entire town taking care of us. The Delta, among other things is where blues music was born, and is chock full of quirky and colorful characters. There was one man in particular, Mr. Jack Carter, who immediately took me under his wing. Mr. Jack loved nothing more than being on the water traveling up and down the river. We spent countless days together camping, fishing, and hunting along the Mississippi. Those experiences really shaped me and that’s where my love for the outdoors grew. In fact, my son Carter is named after Mr. Jack.

We spent countless days together camping, fishing, and hunting along the Mississippi.

Those experiences really shaped me.

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What did you study? What were your interests growing up? What other hobbies do you have besides snowboarding?

I studied economics in undergraduate school, and foreign affairs in graduate school. Truth be told though I’m more of an “experiential learner” so traveling has really influenced me. After my first year of college, I decided to backpack across Europe, but somehow ended up in Northern Africa. That trip showed me how powerful the experiences of a journey can be – the newness of discovery, the freedom of being on your own in a totally alien place. My brothers and I were really into skateboarding, comic-books and music. We’d sit for hours trying to find the newest sounds to propel us up and down a skateboard ramp we’d built. I always liked both art and reading so for me comic-books offered a great blend of the two mediums. Even today there is never a time when I’m not digging into the latest graphic novel or reading several books. When I was less busy, I did a great deal of painting -- I met my wife Marcela because she wanted to meet the artist who’d drawn a mural she saw at a party I was hosting. I don’t produce much anymore, but I still try to view the world from the lens of an artist because I think this makes life more colorful and less serious.

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How about your career path? What did you start off doing and what is the strangest job you’ve held?

I started working when I was really young. Holding down a job, I believe, has played a big part in making me more responsible. My grandfather owned several grocery stores so at seven or eight he had me bagging groceries for pocket money.

I’ve had a pretty wide range of jobs – farm laborer, clerk in a Ralph Lauren store, cook, Peace Corps Volunteer, and bartender to mention a few. One of the things I think that has made me a better person was working in the service sector. When you have to wait on people one learns very quickly about rude behavior. I usually find that the biggest jerks are people that have never spent anytime in the “service” sector. After graduate school I moved to Washington, DC, and a few months before starting an internship in the US Congress, I was a bicycle courier. This was probably the toughest job I’d ever had, dodging angry drivers in chaotic traffic. The experience stuck with me because I made friends whom I stayed close to for the entire 10 years I was in DC. None of them had anything to do with politics or government so we likely wouldn’t have met, had I done something totally different.

A lot of children seem pretty sure about what they want to be when they grow up.

Did you have any such plans? Did they come true in any way?

Honestly, I didn’t have a clue about how’d I make a living. I guess everybody dreams, but I never really imagined I’d be doing what I do now. I’ve had such a gifted life – plus an awesome wife who lets me go play in the mountains and three wonderful children who love adventure. Because of my job, we get to experience life in places that most people dream about. We travel the world experiencing new things and then on top of it all I actually get paid to do good things for people.

That’s tough to beat.

How did the Peace Corps opportunity come about? What would be your most memorable experience from those days?

...what motivated me to join the Peace Corps wasn’t so much the idea of helping people, but rather the adventure of going to a new place.

After college, I was living in Aspen, Colorado, being a ski bum, and a couple of my friends came out for a visit. Both were serving in the Peace Corps and they asked why I didn’t go get a real job? In the end, what motivated me to join the Peace Corps wasn’t so much the idea of helping people, but rather the adventure of going to a new place. My most memorable experience from the Peace Corps, was surviving.

No matter where one serves, volunteers universally have pretty much the same set of doubts – some overcome them, others don’t. I guess I took my experience to the extreme by living with a tribe of semi-nomads in mountains of the Philippines. They were also the last ritual TIMES MAY - JUN 2010

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www.eticketnepal.com the rest of the world. Not many people have the chance to experience what its like to be in such an intensely beautiful, but sometimes deadly environment. What I hate is the caste-system, and while we say it doesn’t officially exist, everybody knows it still does. I simply can’t buy the notion that people are somehow created as lesser beings; this is just an excuse to subjugate other humans.

I love the Annapurna Sanctuary because it’s where I’ve done some of the best snowboarding in my life.

We know you love to travel. What does it mean to you though? Just getting away for a break or something more?

headhunters of the country so their lifestyle was about as alien as anything middle-class kid from Mississippi could have ever dreamed of.

During the first year, there wasn’t a day that passed when I didn’t want to go home. Eventually though, I adapted and ended up extending my service by an extra year. One of the advertisements for the Peace Corps during that time was, “The toughest job you’ll ever love,” and there couldn’t have been an ad that was more accurate. After spending three years doing that job, I feel like I can now survive pretty much anywhere on the planet.

What brought you to WFP? Of the numerous places you’ve been stationed, what has been your favorite besides Nepal?

I worked in the Clinton White House on the National Security Council and the United Nations was among the issues I covered. WFP was the agency that seemed the most action-oriented so that appealed to me. The head of WFP at the time was an American named Catherine Bertinni and she recruited me. I became the 1st of what would be three other NSC staff to join WFP. At that time there weren’t any former NSC staff working in UN Agencies, but just recently our old boss President Clinton’s National Security Advisor, Tony Lake, was nominated to be the new Executive Director for UNICEF. It’s hard to say which other place I liked the best. North Korea was for sure the most difficult, made even more so because I was American. In fact, my family is still the only American family to have ever been allowed to live there. I guess I’d have to say Zambia was among the most special because we love Africa and this was when we had our first child, Zoey.

What do you love/hate about the country?

The natural beauty of Nepal is unparalleled.

After I’ve spent time in the higher mountains I always come back feeling slightly apart from

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In my view, the human experience is about ‘really living in the world’ and travel is one of the best ways to have that experience. I often tell my daughter that each new day is so wonderful because I get look at her and fall in love all over again. Travel offers us the same opportunity, to fall in love again with the beautiful diversity of our world.

What in your opinion are the five best travel destinations in Asia and for what reasons?

Nepal, because of the people and geography – my wife has to fight with me to get me to agree to travel outside the country. China because I think it is most fascinating place in the world today. Bali, Indonesia because I learned to kiteboard there and it was where my twins came into the world. The Philippines because I know it like the back of my hand and it is the place I feel most at home in Asia. Phuket, Thailand because we bought a place there, my kids love the beach and the water is nice and warm which makes it so great for scuba diving.

Where do you want to travel to that you haven’t already?

I’d love to snowboard in Valdez, Alaska, but the lines are huge and honestly I’m scared stiff to take on that level of intensity. I haven’t been to every country in the world, but certainly covered a lot of ground. Our daughter Zoey for example, has already lived in or traveled to 12 countries by the time she was five. I guess the two places I haven’t visited that interest me are the North and South Poles.

What are your favorite travel destinations within Nepal and for what reasons?

I love the Annapurna Sanctuary because it’s where I’ve done some of the best snowboarding in my life. To drop in on a line with the south face of Annapurna 1 and Fishtail as backdrops has got to be the most awesome experiences imaginable. I also like Humla, Dolpo and Upper Gorkha because these areas seem less spoiled. I’ve spent the last two seasons climbing on Manaslu, and gotten to know the area where the Lo people of upper Gorkha live and believe this is one of Nepal’s truly special places.

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Bagan

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The religious city of

china

NEPAL

BHUTAN INDIA Bangladesh

MYANMAR BAY OF BENGAL

BAGAN

LAOS THAILAND

rANGOON aNDAMAN sEA

Words Darshan Shakya Photo Courtesy Ravin Bajracharya

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For passionate tourists, the debate of Angkor Vs Bagan rages on to this day and not without viable reason either. The beauty and wonder of Bagan speaks strongly for itself. Situated on the eastern banks of the River Ayeryawady, 688 kilometers from Yangon, this city houses more than 2200 temples within 42 sq. km. Each of these temples is a jaw dropper. Bagan was once the center of Buddhist culture and learning, the capital of an empire and the one city which was built by kings and commoners alike.

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history

While the city of Bagan dates back to almost the beginning of the Christian era (the 2nd century to be precise), the real history of Bagan begins with the ascension of king Anawratha in 1044 A.D. During the period, the people followed the Mahayana religion. In 1057, King Anawrahta conquered Thaton and brought back to his capital the Theravada scriptures in the Pali script, a large number of Buddhist monks, as well as artists and craftsmen of every description. Bagan’s people received their alphabets, religion and scriptures from these Mon monks. It was also from this historic year that Bagan’s extraordinary architectural and artistic activity began.

It is said that each and every household was able to donate an enshrined pagoda, because of their faith in Buddhism and also because of their wealth.

In a little more than two centuries, the remarkable efforts of both king and subjects covered the city with

thousands of splendid monuments of every shape and size, the inner walls of most of which were decorated with incredible paintings. This was Bagan’s golden age, an era in which more than 13000 temples, pagodas and other religious structures were built. The end of the 13th century marked the fall of the Bagan dynasty. It is believed that things began to go bad under the decadent King Narathihapati, who built the gorgeous Mingalazedi pagoda but went bankrupt because of it, leaving it vulnerable to attack by Kublai Khan in 1287.

With this attack, many of the structures of Bagan were torn down. Left to rot and decay, Bagan was hit by another calamity - the earthquake of 1975 AD, measuring 6.5 on the Richter scale. This disaster destroyed most of the principal structures from Bagan. However, over time, the locals and the government got involved in restoring Bagan to its former glory.

Bagan Today Today, the city of Bagan stands as a magnificent tourism site, overshadowed by the rocky political situation of Myanmar. However, those who visit this city nevertheless are rewarded with amazing views and memories to last a lifetime.

Today Bagan draws tourists from around the world.

Also, to make things easier for tourists, Bagan offers luxurious riverside accommodations, where after a busy day of touring the temples, guests can relax with cocktails and watch the sun set over the River Ayeyarwady. The place is also famous as the centre of Myanmar’s thriving lacquer ware industry.

Interested tourists can watch the skilled artisans work on the various stages of the six-month process. Much of this lacquer ware is destined for souvenir shops in Yangon, and from there to the world market.

Bagan stands as a magnificent tourism site and those who visit this city are rewarded with amazing views and memories to last a lifetime.

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Sites not to be missed There are over 2200 temples in this city and although each one of these structures is a wonder, these are the structures that we recommend you to not miss.

Ananda Temple

This is the most famous of all the temples in Bagan. This temple was completed in 1091 A.D. by king Kyanzittha. It is modeled after the legendary Nandamula cave in the Himalayas. Soaring tall at 51 meters, it received its golden gilding in 1990 in commemoration of the 900th anniversary of its construction. Contained within the temple are four great statues of

the Buddhas of the four ages; Kakusandha faces north, Konagamana faces east, Kassapa faces south, and Guatama, the most recent Buddha faces west. However, the legend of this temple is quite tragic. The king, in order to retain the uniqueness of the temple, got the architect monks killed to ensure that another similar structure was not built by them anywhere else.

Manuha Temple

The Manuha temple is on the right side of the main road going south from Bagan, and right in Myinkaba village. King Manuha’s inscription says that it was built in AD

1067, a decade after the Mon king was brought to Bagan. The name of the temple was given after the name of the captive King Manuha. Traditionally, Manuha was considered one of the earliest temples at Bagan. In Bagan, the kings and queens, the princes and princesses all built pagodas, both large and small. Manuha the Mon king, detained in Bagan, also wanted to build a temple of his own. He did not have money ready, so he sold his priceless Manaw Maya jewel to a rich merchant of Myinkaba and obtained six cartloads of pure silver. He used this to build the impressive Manuha temple. It is still an important place of worship for Buddhists.

Dhammayangi Temple

Shwezigon Pagoda

Shwezigon is amongst the four most significant buildings of Bagan. It was built as the most important reliquary shrine in Bagan, a centre of prayer and reflection for the new Theravada faith that king Anawarahta had MAY - JUN 2010

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established in Bagan. The pagoda stands between the villages of Wetkyi-in and Nyaung U. It is a beautiful pagoda and was commenced by king Anawrahta but not completed until the reign of king Kyanzittha (1084-1113).

This temple is another of the four significant monuments of Bagan. After murdering his own king father, Narathu ascended the throne of Bagan and due to that, he built this temple.

It is said that Narathu oversaw the construction himself and that masons were excecuted if a needle could be pushed between bricks they had laid.

But he never completed the construction because he was assassinated before the comple-

tion. It was said that he was displeased by the Hindu rituals and one of them who made those rituals was the Indian princess who was the daughter of Pateikkaya, and executed her for the same. The princess’s father wanted revenge for his innocent daughter and sent 8 officers in the disguise of Brahmans and assassinated Narathu in this very temple. Another sad legend, but a temple built to awe.

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traveler’s note

Sulamani Temple

This is one of Bagan’s premier temple attractions. The name itself

means ‘crowning jewel’ or ‘small ruby’. It was the first and most important temple of the late period (1170-1300) of Bagan monument building and was built by Narapatisithu. This temple is similar to Htilominlo and the Gawdawpalin in architecture but with better interior lighting. It stands beyond the Dhammayangyi Temple. Important features of the Sulamani include its fine brickwork and use of stone in both load-bearing areas as well as on vulnerable external corner elements. The interior was once painted with fine frescoes but only dim traces can be seen today.

Shwesandaw Pagoda Built in 1057 by king Anawahta, this was the first monument in Bagan to feature stairways leading from the square bottom terraces to the round base of the pagoda itself. The stupa is said to enshrine hairs of the Buddha, a relic that Bagan prides itself in. This temple is sometimes called the Ganesh Temple after the elephant headed Hindu god whose images once stood at corners of each of the five terraces.

Myoe Daung Kyaung Myoe Daung Kyaung or Myo Daung Monastery means the ‘monastery at the corner of the city’. The main monastery building in Bagan, with an east-west orientation, it is spread over approximately 15000 sq. ft. Most of its significant elements are from the pre-colonial Konbaung period while some of the rooms apparently are from later times. Its glory and what should be a major claim to prominence lies in its numerous woodcarvings which are also mostly from the late Kon-baung period from mid to late 19th century.

Bagan Awaits

Despite the unstable political situation of Myanmar and the surprising lack of any other tourist activity, Bagan is still a site that you don’t want to miss. To quote filmmaker Sophia Pande, “There wasn’t much to do besides sightseeing, but Bagan was definitely a must see. Even a trip only to visit these temples is most definitely worth it.”

This time, we had the opportunity to interview Sophia Pande, a filmmaker, about her trip to the city of Bagan. This is what she had to say.

(In her own words)

The thing about Myanmar is that in terms of the political situation, you don’t know what to expect. You think that the military might be stationed around the country and also anticipate some sort of repression. I’m happy to say that during our stay, we did not have to worry about this at all.

If there is any of sign of civil unrest, however, the military forces are mobilized immediately.

The people of Myanmar are very friendly towards tourists.

One would think that the people of an authoritarian state would be quite suspicious, but this is not so.

The heat is definitely an issue though. We went there in February and yet it was still quite hot. To beat the heat, we woke up early in the morning and toured the temples till about 11 AM. Then we returned to our hotel to cool off. Later, we set out to watch the magnificent view of the temples against the sunset.

I think the December/January time would be the best time to go because it’s very hot in the summer.

One of the things that brings awe to tourists is the very skilled masonry that is prominent throughout Bagan.

Although the temples of Bagan are mostly constructed with bricks, you cannot see anything similar to cement. It makes you wonder how these structures are held together.

I very much recommend getting a good guide because that would make things much easier for you. Our guide was very helpful, although his English wasn’t so strong.

There are so many temples that a one-day trip is impossible. As for us, we took 3 days to tour the temples, visiting about 6 – 10 a day.

Myanmar is also well known for Lacquer ware - unique Burmese handicraft, made from bamboo and a mix of tree sap and resin, among other things. Personally, I’m not much of a fan of these, but it has a great appeal and might make a very good souvenir.

You have to be conscious about what you wear, though.

Showing skin is regarded rude in a number of temples and people wearing sleeveless clothes, or shorts, have been barred from entry in some places. Also, there is no facility that would provide any sort of cover-up robes, so you have to be prepared.

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croc with a pot

The gharial’s slender snout is too fragile to attack bigger animals, but means death to fish. It is hence not surprising that gharials, one of the largest crocodilians in the world, are called the fish-eating crocodile or the long-nosed crocodile.

Words Prita Malla Photo Courtesy WWF Nepal

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lumps of weed and driftwood float lazily on the murky waters of the Narayani River when suddenly what looked like a knotted log comes to life and a long and slender snout emerges out of the surface, carrying a thrashing fish between its sharp toothed jaws. The gharial’s slender snout is too fragile to attack bigger animals, but means death to fish. It is hence not surprising that gharials, one of the largest crocodilians in the world, are called fish-eating crocodiles or long-nosed crocodiles. And while we’re talking about names, gharials are named for the bulbous growth on the tip of the mature male’s snout which is called a ‘ghara’, after the Indian/Nepali word meaning ‘pot’.

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Did you know?

The gharial’s scientific name, Gavialis gangeticus is based on a misspelling of the Hindi word ghariyal. “Gavial” is a misspelling of the word “Gharial” that refers to the ghara - a swelling around the nostrils of mature males used for communication.

Gharials (Gavialis gangeticus) are found usually in the calmer areas of deep, fastmoving rivers. As they are not well equipped for movement on land, they only leave the water to bask and nest on sandbanks.

Their leg musculature is not suited to raise the body off the ground or to produce the “high-walk” gait. They are only able to push its body forward across the ground or “belly-slide.” However, when in water, the gharials are the most nimble and quick of all the crocodilians. Because their tail is overdeveloped and laterally flat, they have excellent aquatic navigational skills.

The average size of mature gharials is 3.6-4.5 m (12.2-15.5 ft). Typically, adult gharials have a dark olive color tone while the young ones are pale olive with dark brown spots or crossbands. Their characteristic elongated, narrow snout becomes progressively thinner with age. The bulbous growth on the tip of the male’s snout is a cartilaginous protuberance that is used as a vocal resonator with which the gharial can produce a loud buzzing noise during social behavior. It also acts as a visual lure for attracting the opposite sex and is used to make bubbles, which have been associated with their mating rituals!

Gharials are best known for their slender jaws which are lined with many interlocking, razor-sharp thin teeth. The thin shape gives the snout low resistance in water, which is suited to fast lateral snatching movements underwater; these are ideally suited for holding and struggling with prey such as slippery fish. The gharial has 27 to 29 upper and 25 to 26 lower teeth on each side. The front teeth are the

largest. The gharial’s snout is narrow and long, with dilations at the end and its nasal bones are comparatively short and widely separated from the pre-maxillaries.

Gharials however aren’t exclusively fisheaters all their lives. When they are younger, gharials feast on a variety of insects and frogs, and as they mature, transition to fish.

Gharials will often use their body to corral fish against the bank where they can be more easily snapped up. There have been rare accounts where larger gharials have attacked larger prey, including mammals.

As mentioned earlier, despite its immense size, its thin and fragile jaws make it physically incapable and impossible to consume a large animal. Gharials look menacing but attack human beings only if provoked for self defense.

Females reach sexual maturity after they are over ten years old while the males guard a harem of several females. The mating period occurs for two months during November, December and may extend to January. Nesting occurs in March, April and May; the dry season. The female digs a hole in the sand bank and lays around 30 to 50 eggs into it before covering it carefully.

The size of gharial’s egg is the largest for any crocodilian species, weighing 160 grams on average. After 83 to 94 days, the eggs hatch and the hatchlings make their way to the water unaided by the mother, who in all truth couldn’t help even if she wanted to because of a mouth full of razorsharp teeth. Unlike reptiles such as sea turtles who lay eggs and abandon them to their own means, gharials are to some TIMES MAY - JUN 2010

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extent maternal and protect their young for some time after the hatching until they learn to fend for themselves.

These crocodilians once thrived in all the major river systems of the Indian subcontinent. Today their distribution is limited to 2% of their former range; less than 200 breeding adults. The gharial is now considered to be confined within the river systems of the Brahmaputra (India and Bhutan), the Indus (Pakistan), the Ganges (India), and the Mahanadi (India), with small populations in the Kaladan and the Irrawady in Myanmar. In Nepal small populations are present and slowly recovering in tributaries of the Ganges, such as the Narayani-Rapti river system in Chitwan National Park and the Karnali-Babai river system in Bardia National Park.

The major threat at present is habitat loss due to human encroachment, sand mining and disruption of its population through fishing and hunting activities along with a rise in pollution. Gharial eggs are occasionally collected by local people for medicinal

Kingdom : Animalia Scientific Name : Gavialis gangeticus Class : Sauropsida Order : Crocodilia Family : Gavialidae Genus : Gavialis Species : G. gangeticus Type: Reptile Diet: Carnivore Average lifespan in the wild: 40 to 60 Years Size: 12.25 to 15.5 ft (3.6 to 4.5 m) Weight: 2,200 lbs (977 kg) Dentition Code: 5 pre-maxillary; 23-24

maxillary; 25-26 mandibular

Total no. of teeth = 106-110 Protection status: Critically Endangered

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purposes, and males have been targeted for the aphrodisiac properties associated with the snout - something people in the know call an old wives’ tale. The decline in its population has been linked to a decline in fish catches and receding water levels in big rivers. Moreover, the crocodiles that enter Indian territories cannot return due to the presence of dams.

Experts believe that the water quality of Nepalese rivers is better suited for the gharial’s survival. Thus environmentalists are focusing intently on its conservation efforts in Nepal. Their efforts with the cooperation of several governments have led to some reduction in the threat of extinction. There have been some smallscale projects to breed and rehabilitate gharials in Nepal’s Chitwan National Park.

A short walk from the park HQ will lead one to the “Gharial Breeding Centre” which is home to the “Marsh Mugger” and a number of turtles. Presently, there are as many as 440 crocodiles in Chitwan National Park. The park said it has so far released 708 crocodiles in different rivers

across the country but the number of the reptile has been decreasing in these rivers despite the park’s efforts.

The Gharial Breeding Centre has wasted no effort in conserving the gharial. Its eggs are searched for in riverbanks, and brought to the centre for incubating safely under heating lamps to maintain an appropriate temperature. After about three months, the baby gharials break their leathery eggshells to start a new life. They remain in the pools of the centre until they reach the age of four after which they are released into the wild.

Gharials may not be what you would call adorable or beautiful but there is certain elegance to their streamlined body and armored hide, and efficiency in its hunting techniques that you can’t ignore. Gharials are an essential part of the river ecosystem and if we do nothing to save this dying species, we will not only lose a magnificent species but bring chaos to an intricate balance in the biosphere.

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PHOTOLOGUE

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a PHOTOGRAPHic journey to

Namo Buddha

Namo Buddha is considered “…one of the unsurpassed, supreme sacred sites known as the three stupas in Nepal…” and is also known as Tagmo Lüjin or “the place where the future Buddha sacrificed his body to a tigress”. The site is regarded by Buddhists as the place where the Buddha, at the time still on a path of learning, offered his own body without regret to a tigress suffering from such great hunger that she would have eaten her own cubs.

The then prince thus died and was reborn in the Tushita realm of the gods. Searching for the reason to his death, the Buddha chanced upon his parents who were mourning his death. The Buddha assured them that his death was for a noble cause.

Somewhat assured, in his loving memory, his grieving parents made a casket of seven precious jewels, put his bones inside and buried it. Above this, they erected a stupa - which we know today as the Namo Buddha stupa.

Photos Sudhir Bhandari

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The monastery itself is quite beautiful, nestled amidst greenery, a far cry from the hustle and bustle of the city.

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Words Utsav Shakya

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The ancient site is popular amongst Buddhists. It is however also a recreational spot for anyone who likes a good hike, some fresh air and does not mind a religious spot.

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The Namo Buddha stupa erected in memory of the prince who died to feed a hungry tigress.

Devotees can light oil lamps here in the memory of loved ones or just as a show of respect to the Buddha.

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The simple stupa has an aura of peace and tranquility. Perfect for a day’s getaway with the family or even friends.

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Quite touching and with a rather artsy look, is a wall where people can put up pictures of their loved ones.

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The site is also rapidly gaining popularity amongst foreign tourists.

The site recently went through a small restoration. It not shines brighly in the summer sun.

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Getting there: A pleasant fairly easy all-day walk of about 3 hours south of Dhulikhel, will take you to Namobuddha. It takes about one hour to reach Dhulikhel in a taxi or private car, or two and a half to three hours by cycling. Local buses are also easily available. Namobuddha is situated at a distance of about 62 kilometers from Kathmandu. Taxis and private vehicles will get one easily up to the parking area. But you will have to walk 10 minutes from the parking to reach the stupa.

You can then walk back or take a circular route back. You can also walk to Panauti, another 1½ hours away and then get a bus back to Dhulikhel or Kathmandu via Banepa.

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The site of the monastery at Namo Buddha also offers an idyllic view of the valley. Shown here are the hills and the valley towards the north from the monastery.

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ataleofvagabond

Around the world at his own pace

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atALEOFVAGABOND | 89

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What is your prime profession?

What motivated you towards travel photography?

I’ve spent the last 35 years of my life working on computer networks for the Canadian government. I even worked as a photographer for a newspaper. Once I retired, I decided to pursue photography seriously. I have always loved photography as it is a great tool to relive memories. So I thought of incorporating traveling with this interest.

Why do you like to travel? Who has inspired you to travel?

I have always loved history so when I was given the chance to travel to see the archaeological wonders of the world I jumped on it. Trying to capture pictures that no one else has is an impossible task but that is what has kept me going. I have found out that people basically are the same everywhere even with different cultures and religions, but they all love their families and want to have a good life.

Amazing people and different cultures is what makes traveling such an amazing experience that I wish everyone could

enjoy. My father was in the navy and got to visit many places in the world and I longed to see these wonderful places as well.

What are the rules you abide by while traveling?

Traveling is something that has to be done with a lot of care and planning.

Tourists are the number one target at many places so I am always cautious. I have not had a bad experience yet but have been on tours where other people were pick-pocketed and backpacks cut with razor knives. I never carry a wallet or keep all my money in one place; I have shirts, vests and coats that all have inside pockets. I carry just enough cash for a day and leave the rest of the money at the hotel.

What are your personal natural or manmade seven wonders?

My top seven wonders might be quite biased as sometimes it is the experience and not the place that makes it special to me.

1. Machu Picchu in Peru – for its location on a mountain in a rain forest

Abu Simbel, Egypt

PETRA, JORDAN

Often we cannot have conversations as most do not know the language but it is a smile, a handshake, a look or a gesture that just says - we are the same and that we care.

2. Tibet – for the religious sites, the people and the mountains 3. Abu Simbel in Egypt – for being an awesome monument 4. Petra in Jordan – for being so large and so mysterious 5. Angkor Wat in Cambodia – for the carvings and buildings which are simply wonderful 6. Varanasi in India – for the people and the atmosphere which is really enchanting 7. Tikal in Guatemala – for being a lost city What are your travel pleasures?

What do you do while travelling which you wouldn’t do or get at home?

The greatest pleasure when I travel is meeting new people. Often we cannot have conversations as most do not know the language but it is a smile, a handshake, a look or a gesture that just says - we are the same and that we care. It is also great to see famous sites like the pyramids, Machu Picchu, Angkor Wat and the Great Wall of China amongst others. They are all amazing places to visit. I know it’s a cliché but what I like best about travelling is that I get to see different landscapes, meet new people, try different cuisines and see wonderful places.

What is the biggest reward for a traveler/photographer?

The biggest reward for me would be to publish a book with the pictures I have taken. I get e-mails from people saying that they travel through my eyes. It is a great feeling when they enjoy my work.

It also feels great when watching a

Machu Picchu, Peru

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Varanasi, India

television show about places you have been to and can actually relate to the story.

What have you learned about yourself through your travels?

I think the one thing I have found out about myself while traveling is that I am very lucky to have what I have. So much of the world has so little in comparison to what we have and yet these people have learnt of ways to be happy. I don’t think a day goes by when I don’t think about how lucky I am.

What are your thoughts about Nepal?

Nepal is a wonderful country and I have heard nothing but praises from my friends. I am looking forward to my visit.

What’s the most dangerous place you’ve been to? Any interesting incidents that you would like to share?

I can honestly say that I never feel afraid to venture off to new places. I went for a walk alone in Cairo to an area which felt a bit intimidating. I was concerned that since I looked the typical tourist I felt I was a sure target but to my relief everyone who saw me waved and said “Welcome to Egypt”.

Funny how the mind works; I was on a flight back from Egypt on Egypt Air. The crew was great and the trip was going well but soon I noticed that the staff was not in their uniforms. Now this was the first day of Ramadan and I hoped they were not planning something like 9/11. But actually there were two crews for long flights like this and they were changing crews at that time.

Which foreign city would you most like to live in for a year?

Of all the places I have visited I would like to live in Varanasi in India for a

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Tikal, Guatemala

year. Varanasi has so much to offer and language is not a problem there either, which is also one of my concerns as I don’t know any other language other than English (laughs).

Any favorite experiences you want to share with us?

My group and I were walking through the Fez Medina (Fez, Morocco) and I was lagging behind taking pictures.

When I tried to catch up with my group they were nowhere to be seen. I was horrendously lost. People say, “If you go into the Medina a young man without a guide, you will come out an old man”.

It is a mindboggling labyrinth. I ran around fruitlessly for a while before a man pointed down a street indicating the correct path. I gave him a small Canadian flag pin, which I always carry, in gratitude and finally caught up with the group. As we continued our journey we were hounded by people trying to sell us things. We had been walking about 20 minutes when a man started tapping me on the shoulder. I just kept saying no but he continued. When I finally looked up exasperated, the man showed me the pin I’d given him and he gave me a key chain. It was the Hand of Fatima, referring to Fatima Zahra, Prophet Muhammad’s daughter. It is a sort of “protection of the hand” or “the hand of God“. It’s a very treasured possession of mine.

Any tips for aspiring travelers/ photographers?

To anyone who wants to travel and get good pictures, first of all, know your camera. Travel light. Taking many lenses

When in a new place travel with a smile, be tolerant of other people, show respect and don’t worry about all the small things that might go wrong. can be heavy and unnecessary. I use a Nikon D300 and only travel with my 18200mm VR lens as it has a great range and fits almost all of the situations. In my last two trips, I started taking my SB-800 flash. I store all my pictures on an Archos 5, 120GB hard drive until I get home and it takes up minimal space.

Always take enough memory to store the picture; you pay thousands for the trip so why not spend a few dollars more on storage. All my chargers, camera, lens, hard drive, extra batteries, memory cards fit in a Lowpro Slingshot 200. However I have just purchased a new bag, a Lowpro Fastpack 350 as many airlines are now restricting people to one carry-on bag. This has room for all my photography things as well as a change of clothes.

When in a new place travel with a smile, be tolerant of other people, show respect and don’t worry about all the small things that might go wrong. Do this and you will meet lots of wonderful people, be treated well and get lots of great pictures.

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Thangka

Picture-Perfect: Painting a Perfect Picture Words Prasanna Pandey

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Photos Suresh Maharjan

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For centuries, Nepal has and continues to have, an amazing ability to preserve and nurture culture and traditions of a variety of different religions and spiritual practices. Religion is openly practiced and uniformly tolerated. It shapes the way of life of Nepali people exemplified in innumerable festivities and celebrations that punctuate the banality of everyday existence. Over the ages this intermingling of spiritual ideas has helped its people to understand even the most esoteric ideals and transmit them using a variety of instruments such as books, scrolls, sculptures, paintings, prayer flags, music and other religious objects. A Thangka is one such instrument used in visualization practices of Buddhist philosophy.

Buddhism stresses on understanding. Humans are the only beings who can become knowledgeable about the nature of their consciousness. But it is grossly inadequate to just become knowledgeable about oneself without the knowledge of Brahman or cosmic consciousness. In this process of contemplation, a Tapaswi acquires the ability to distinguish between positive thoughts and negative thoughts and willfully acts to meditate only upon the positive and fruitful ones. Once he starts asking the right questions, a process of transformation initiates and the thinker can rise above the delights of the five senses and everyday experiences. Nothing in the material world can bother him in this quest for realization. Once he achieves this realization he would be called a Bodhisattva.

A Bodhisattva who has attained enlightenment shows no feelings and acts only for the benefit and the service of the mankind who are mostly confused and susceptible to sinister energies of lust, anger and violence. In past ages, such enlightened beings wrote down shastras (religious text) for the benefit of mankind that gave a pictorial representation on a variety of religious subjects. These depictions were sketched on a flat surface by master painters and regarded as pictorial scrolls. They were revered by Buddhists as knowledge passed down from enlightened beings for everyone’s benefit. They called these representations thangkas and these were venerated and used in ritual visualization and worship in different parts of the Orient as Buddhism gained popularity.

A thangka is considered to initiate an onlooker to ask questions. If he is asking the right questions, then he will be able to identify the answers within it. A passive picture thus designed will initiate a dynamic thought process that would guide him in the correct path of understanding and he will be able to ask further relevant questions to enrich his experience on this quest for realization and enlightenment.

The origin of the practice of painting thangkas can be traced to the days of Shakyamuni Buddha (Siddhartha Gautama) (563-483 BC). In that time there were two rulers Utatyana and Bimbisara in neighbouring states who were also close friends and were in a habit of exchanging gifts. Once, in return of a priceless gem from Utatyana, Bimbisara thought of giving a painting of Buddha on cloth to Utatyana. Bimbisara summoned master painters and took consent of Buddha to have his portrait. However, when the artists sat down to paint his image, they were so overwhelmed by the luminosity and majesty of the enlightened one that they could not complete their assignment. Buddha suggested that they draw a likeness of his form by looking at his reflection in still water. This water image of the saint became the first thangka.

As Buddhism spread, several schools specialized in the painting of thangkas with their own variations upon a common theme and three prominent styles or schools emerged - namely Mensar, Menri and Karma Gadri.

These three styles influenced Buddhist art as it spread further into India, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar and Tibet through traveling monks as they could be easily rolled up and transported between monasteries.

Most notably, in the seventh century, King Srongtsen Gampo (617-698) of Tibet married Princess Bhrikuti (Thritsun) the daughter of King Amshuverma of Nepal who went to Tibet bearing several gifts along with the thangka paintings and this proved instrumental in the introduction and nurturing of the art form there.

Over time numerous schools emerged that specialized in the ritual of this art as its fame spread further into China, Japan and other countries by the Pacific Ocean and eventually all over the world.

The name thangka comes from two Tibetan words ‘Thang’ and ‘Ku’. ‘Thang’ means flat and implies that the painting has to be created on a flat surface. ‘Ku’ stands for body or form. Contemporary thangkas are

Chenrezig is another name of Avalokiteśvara, a Bodhisattva who embodies compassion of all Buddhas.

Yamāntaka is seen as a wrathful manifestation of Mañjuśrī, the Buddha of wisdom, and in other contexts functions as a dharmapala.

White Tara is a Bodhisattva known for compassion, long life, healing and serenity.

The wheel of life or Bhavachakra is a complex symbolic representation of Samsāra in the form of a circle.

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Dakini is a tantric deity described as a female embodiment of enlightened energy.

Green Tara is known as the Buddha of enlightened activity.

Tsongkhapa (1357–1419), whose name means ‘The Man from Onion Valley’, was a famous teacher of Tibetan Buddhism.

Kalachakra Mandala depicts the wheel or cycle of time.

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generally drawn on cotton canvas but silk, rice paper (Nepali Kagaj) are also popular mediums. Natural colours are generally used derived from stones, vegetables, sand, coral, agate, sapphire, pearl and gold.

Modern synthetic dyes are also used. Gold and silver are primarily used for decorative purposes.

The process of creation of a thangka begins in workshops where a small number of apprentices are guided by an experienced master thangka painter. The canvas is prepared by applying glue in layers to prevent the soaking up, fading and chipping off of colour and are subsequently polished. The design follows old iconographic templates that allow for only small variations.

Creation of new designs are restricted to masters but they also have to follow the scriptural description and storyline and can’t modify certain features in the painting such as a deity’s colour, posture, mudra (finTIMES

ger positions), instruments they are holding and their expressions according to the character the masters are depicting. An extensive knowledge of Buddhist philosophy and mathematical proportions is required of such a task that can only be acquired through years of dedicated practice. The sketches of these designs are made on a paper and transferred to the canvas later or they are made directly onto the canvas.

The artistic freedom of the painter is limited to colour combinations and he or she begins by painting the larger and the flatter areas stressing on the subtle harmony of colour at the end result. Each colour has it own psychological meaning in a particular thangka design such as calm, passion and pride amongst others. After painting the larger areas the paint is allowed to dry thoroughly. All subsequent steps are carried out by trained and experienced painters – after

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For good medium and large-sized qualities, one should be willing to spend about $500 or more.

The best quality thangkas start at $1,000. filling in the more delicate designs shading, shadowing and gradations are applied which give the thangka a three dimensional look. The last and perhaps the most important step is the painting of the face and eyes of the deities and this process is carried out by the master painter himself as it is a direct reflection of the quality of the painting. In older days, the final step was accompanied by a religious ritual called ‘eye opening’ and was thought to bring the thangka painting to life.

After the completion of the painting it is mounted on a frame or an elaborate silk brocade to be put on display. The creation of a thangka painting is a painstakingly long process that can take several long months to culminate. Small thangkas of an acceptable quality are available starting at $100. For good medium and large-sized qualities, one should be willing to spend about $500 or more. The best quality thangkas start at $1,000. Such thangkas are still made but they are comparatively difficult to find as the market for them is rather small. Compared with the artistic ability, dexterity, concentration, patience and hard work that go into a painting, it is safe to say that such a price tag is still inadequate.

In Nepal, one can generally find four different kinds of Thangka paintings namely Color thangka (consisting of Menri, Mensar and Karma Gadri), Nharti (gold and other colours in a black background), Mharti (gold and other colours in a red background) and Sherti (pure gold thangka along with other colours).

The nature of a thangka depends on what a patron wishes to use the painting for. It may portray peaceful or wrathful deities, meditational deities, Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, Dharma Protectors or saints and their lives.

Since Nepal boasts of the origin of Buddhism and creation and worshipping of this ancient ritualistic art, one can find the highest number of thangka painters

in the world in Nepal. The art is specialized among several indigenous Buddhist communities such as Gurungs, Tamangs, Lamas, Manageys and Newars.

Huge thangkas are found in numerous Buddhist monasteries of Nepal as well as in Buddhist schools, temples and stupas as well as shops.

Special thangkas of the Newari community are known as Pauwas (Paubhas) and they are considered to be of two types - Palas and Mandalas. Palas are artwork depicting deities or a combination of deities (who maybe Budhhas, Bodhisattvas, Masters, Protectors and Guardians). Mandalas appear as thangkas in all forms of Buddhist art and have mystical and ritual significance in Hinduism. They are geometric patterns, plans or charts which represent the cosmos symbolically and metaphysically or they may be envisaged as ‘sacred space or abode of fully realized beings.’ Commenting at a more esoteric level – it allows the meditating person to access deeper levels of the subconscious, assisting him to experience a mystical sense of oneness with the ultimate unity from which the cosmos arises. By visualizing the ‘pure Buddha land’ in the Mandala, one learns to understand that particular experience itself as pure and the abode of enlightenment and free from the ever changing illusion of Maya. As a meditation on impermanence (a central teaching of Buddhism), after days or weeks of creating the intricate pattern of a sand mandala, the sand is brushed together and placed in a body of running water to spread the blessings of the mandala.

Thangkas are generally used for worship, meditation and decoration. Entire walls of monasteries are covered with huge thangka paintings from times immemorial. Thangkas have a great religious as well as artistic significance and for this reason they are not only treasured but also revered by the Buddhist community. Although thangkas create employment by giving underprivileged communities of even the remotest corner of the Himalayas something to do and also nurture social awareness of Buddhist philosophy and values, the government of Nepal has given little, if no support, to these indigenous communities and has left them to fare on their own. Thangkas and the workforce who create them need to be supported by the state as well as by admirers of their art. They need all our encouragement and support so that they can continue to create a form of art that has been made famous the world over.

Himalaya God – A god who lives in Mt. Everest

Medical Thangka depicts the internal organization of physical human body.

Mahakala is a dharmapala (a type of wrathful deity who is protector of dharma) in Vajrayana Buddhism.

Available at: There are lots of Thangka Showrooms around the Kathmandu Valley.

Thamel, a touristic hub of Kathmandu is more popular for Thangkas. Besides, Bouddha and Patan also provide wide range of Thangkas.

Special Thanks to Unique Tibetan Traditional Thangka Art Family for ourstanding their support.

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Buddha Jayanti Words: Swoyam Joshi | Photos: Rocky Prajapati

Throughout its history, Nepal has been home to many religions and ethnic groups.

People from all walks of life celebrate religious holidays all year round. Buddha Purnima or Buddha Jayanti, celebrated on the full moon day in May, is one of the most popular festivals in the Nepalese religious calendar. The festival is celebrated to commemorate three major events in Buddha’s life- his birth as Prince Siddhartha Gautam, his spiritual enlightenment at the age of 35, and finally the attainment of nirvana at the age of 80, in 543 B.C. The practice of Buddhism in Nepal can be traced back to roughly 2500 years ago when the young prince was born in Lumbini, in southern Nepal in 623 B.C. Legend has it that after the prince was born a hermit told his father, king Sudhodana that the boy would either become a great ruler or a monk. Afraid that young Siddhartha would leave, the king provided everything he could want or need.

Having led a very sheltered life within the confines of the royal palace till the age of 29, the young prince was convinced that the world was a peaceful place, and was completely unaware of the tragedies and miseries of life. One day the ever-curious

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prince urged his charioteer to take him outside the palace on a city tour. He was greatly saddened to see the scenes of an old person, a diseased man and a corpse. The realization that there was more to life than the mere luxury that was offered to him led him to abandon his family, his palace and all the materialistic possessions in search of enlightenment and the true meaning of life.

After wandering, searching and meditating for years Siddhartha Gautam finally attained enlightenment and henceforth became known as Gautam Buddha or “the enlightened one”. He is believed to have discovered the Four Noble Truth – suffering is the inherent part of existence, ignorance is the root cause of suffering, symptoms of ignorance being attachment and craving, which can be ceased by following the Noble Eightfold Path (right understanding, right thought, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness, right concentration). He spent the rest of his life teaching and guiding thousands of followers leaving them with simple instructions about the path to freedom from suffering, and passed away at the age of 80.

Celebration and Rituals Buddhists and Hindus in Nepal mark Buddha Jayanti with particular reverence and enthusiasm. The festival is celebrated nationwide in places of special importance like Bouddhanath, Swoyambhunath, Lumbini and numerous other sites. The ancient stupas of Bouddhanath and Swoyambhunath in the Kathmandu valley are considered the most sacred. The stupas are decorated with colorful prayer flags, butter lamps, and electric lights and are painted with symbolic lotus petals from yellow saffron dye. People walk around the stupas spinning prayer wheels. The day is marked with prayer sessions, and sermons about the life of Gautam Buddha. Monks perform a continuous recital of Buddhist scriptures, conduct group meditation, and worship in front of the statue of Buddha in monasteries across the country. Pilgrims bathe, gather for worship, give alms to monks, and share kheer, a special delicacy made with rice, milk and sugar. Birds are freed and fruits and clothes are distributed among the poor to signify Buddha’ preaching of peace and non-violence. On this day Buddhists reaffirm their faith in the

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five principles of panchsheel - not to take life, not to steal, not to lie, not to consume liquor or any intoxicants and not to commit adultery.

There are various ethnic groups across Nepal who celebrate this festival with great reverence. Kathmandu city in particular, with its ever growing population, has seen cultural amalgamation over the years and can be regarded as the country’s “cultural museum”. Magars, Gurungs, Thakalis, Sherpas, Newars and a notable number of Brahmins and Chettris celebrate Buddha Jayanti with great devotion too. Gurungs and Magars, primarily from the western and central hills of the country usually prepare traditional dishes, organize gettogethers and wish each other prosperity and happiness. They also entertain with cultural dances like shorati at monasteries and local shrines. Another form of relaxation is the rodhi dancing and singing - ro meaning to sleep and dhi meaning house).

The Rai people - a group that mostly inhabits the central hills celebrate this day as the harvest day and worship mother earth.

The priests of this group also perform rituals to worship their ancestors. The Newar

community of the Kathmandu valley also marks this day with worship, food and prayers. The Newars who are also credited with much of construction of the artistically beautiful cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, follow both Hinduism and Buddhism. Bajracharyas and Shakyas perform priestly duties and organize sermons by lighting oil lamps at temples and stupas. Most Newars belong to a guthi, a local governing body that organizes religious sermons and gatherings, and follows a set of rules for the benefit of the community.

Some of them also observe asthashil – fasting and eating strictly vegetarian items before noon and participate in procession across town, while others give alms and feed the poor to honor departed souls.

Most Buddhists fly five-colored prayer flags in their houses and local shrines.

Places of Interest In Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur –the cities in the valley images and statues of Buddha are carried through street processions, sometime placing them atop elephants. The festival is also celebrated in Kapilvastu, a historic town some 300 km

from Kathmandu, near Lumbini. Lumbini, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is famous for architectural and natural beauty, is a major attraction for devotees in search of divine feelings of spirituality and holiness. In recent years a number of monasteries have been built in and around the Kathmandu valley where devotees gather and worship. Another place of interest is the Sankhu Vajrayogini temple, some 18 km northeast of Kathmandu. The temple premise also houses a stupa believed to be a thousand years old and is worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists.

The importance of Buddha Jayanti to Nepalese people is such that even those who do not celebrate this festival are awestruck by the wholeheartedness of those who do. It will not be too much of an exaggeration to say that Buddha Jayanti is a day full of joy and devotion, and a day to be grateful to the Prince who abandoned his family, kingdom and the royal throne to bring peace to the world. Every year the festival commands increasing reverence among Nepalese people for it has found an easy blend with Hinduism and is celebrated as a philosophy of life.

Other festivals on the months of May and June Rato Matsyendranath Jatra | Sita Jayanti | Narsingha Jatra | Ubhouli | Sithi Nakha | Kumar Yatra For more details on these festivals, visit www.traveltimes-mag.com/festivals

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The diverse and unifying package of Travelling Film South Asia 2010

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Sherpas - Die Wahren Helden Ah Everest

(Sherpas - The True Heroes of Mount Everest)

Original Language: Nepalese, Swiss, German, English Direction: Frank Senn, Hari Thapa, Otto C. Honneger

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TFSA is a tradition which started with the first Film South Asia festival, held in September 1997. After each FSA festival, about a dozen films are selected to tour regionally and globally. The 12 touring documentaries of Travelling Film South Asia 2010 (TFSA ‘10) are outstanding examples of non-fiction productions of the last two years from this part of Asia. They have been selected from the 35 documentaries screened in the competitive section of Film South Asia ‘09, the ‘mother festival’, held in Kathmandu in September 2009. The selection has been carried out in consultation with FSA ‘09’s three-member jury, chaired by Chennai-based cultural critic Sadanand Menon.

The twelve films of TFSA ‘10

Production: Otto C. Honneger, Swiss National Television

Afghan Girls Can Kick (50’)

Mayomi (50’)

The Battle for Pakistan (40’)

The Way of the Road (60’)

In Search of the Riyal (86’)

The Promised Land (90’)

Come to My Country: Journeys with Kabir and Friends (98’)

Out of Thin Air (50’)

India, 2008, dir – Shabnam Virmani Unlikely bonds in quest for Kabir’s ‘country’.

India, 2009, dir – Samreen Farooqui & Shabani Hassanwalia The high energy of Ladaki cinema.

Filmed from the point of view of a subjective camera by a young ethnologist,

Children of God (89’)

Saamam (The Music) (42’)

The film received third best award at Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival (KIMFF) 2009.

The Last Rites (17’)

The Salt Stories (84’)

Duration: 93 mins

s y n o p s i s

This film shows the work, the hardship and the life of the Sherpas at the Mount Everest.

With their eyes we follow the expedition of the Swiss mountain guide Kari Kobler and his European climbers to the highest mountain of the world. For the first time this film shows the stories of the Sherpas, their feelings and fears on the climb of Mount Everest. They tell us bluntly, what it means for them to work for Western clients, to act as their ladders to the top of the world. We experience their successes but also tragedy when the expedition loses a member. The film shows the happinness of summitting the Everest as well as tragedy of losing friend.

Afghanistan, 2007, Dir - Bahareh Hosseini The girls do kick well.

Pakistan, 2009, dir – Maheen Zia Do extremism and madrassas converge?

Sri Lanka, 2008, dir – Carol Salter Post-tsunami, she struggles for her family.

Nepal, 2009, dir – Ben Campbell & Cosmo Campbell The new Nepal-Tibet road and the locals.

The film received the best award in International Competition at 7th Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival (KIMFF) in2009.

Himalaya, - Le Chemin Du Ciel

Nepal, 2009, dir – Kesang Tseten Deep study of Nepali migrants in the Gulf.

(Himalaya, A Path To The Sky)

Bangladesh, 2008, dir – Tanvir Mokammel Stigma still haunts Biharis in Dhaka.

Original Language: Zanskari Direction: Marianne Chaud Production: ZED Duration: 52 mins

s y n o p s i s

Kenrap is eight years old. He is a Buddhist monk and lives in the Phukthal monastery on the peaks of the Himalayan mountains of Zanskar. He chose his life away from his family, when he was five. He remembered he was the reincarnation of a 68 year-old monk, and then decided to leave his family and return to the monastery where he belonged.

Path to the Sky follows this attaching little monk with whom we share moments of intimacy, and gives us a rare glance at Buddhist monastic life.

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Nepal, 2008, dir – Yi Seung-jun The kids of the Aryaghat cremation grounds.

Bangladesh, 2008, dir – Yasmine Kabir Where the ships go to die.

India, 2009, dir – Ramachandran K Homage to Carnatic music and M D Ramanathan.

India, 2008, dir – Lalit Vachani Following Gandhi’s salt march in our time.

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events&tips

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Maia Ruth Lee’s The Traveller’The Recollections of the Lonesome Traveller

Aba Ke Garne The Summer Writing Workshop for Fiction

When: 16th May -3rd June Where: Siddhartha Art Gallery, Babar Mahal Revisited, Kathmandu Description: The exhibition is an autobiographical interpretation of what it is to be a traveller, metaphorically, with different identities which is to be inaugurated by His Excellency Hong Sungmog, Korean Ambassador to Nepal.

Contact:4218048

Jeevika-Asia Livelihood Documentary Festival Call for Entries (DEAdline): 30th June, 2010 Festival: 27-29 August 2010 Where: India Habitat Centre, New Delhi Description: Organized by the Centre for Civil Society, it aims at capturing the livelihood challenges faced by the rural and urban poor, identifying and bringing to light policies and social, religious and cultural practices which prevent people from earning an honest living. It invites documentaries focusing on individual and community livelihoods in Asia. The competition is open to professional, amateur and student documentary makers of all nationalities.

Contact: jeevika@ccs.in, www.jeevika.org, +91 11 2653 7456 , +91 98 9930 7456

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When:6th June-19th June-2010 (3 hour meetings 3 times weekly) Where: Bookworm (Jhamsikhel, Lalitpur) Description: The workshop is emphasizing more on creating solutions form young emerging writers of Nepal. Facilitated by the graduates from Columbia University Muna Gurung and Tsering Lama.

Contact: aba.ke.garne@gmail.com, www.sattya.org

KIMFF 2010 Submission NEPAL INTERNATIONAL INDIGENOUS FILM FESTIVAL (NIIFF) 2010 When: 25th June- 27th June-2010 Where: Sabha Griha and NTB Hall Description: With festival’s screenings, panel discussions, workshops and cultural events reflecting the diversity of the world’s Indigenous nations, and illustrate the vitality and excellence of our culture and indigenous spirit. IFA requests filmmakers and technocrats the world over to participate in this festival to showcase films and other innovation in film, video and new media.

Contact: www.ifanepal.org.np, 4102577

When: 1st April-15th August-2010 Where: Himal Association (a non for profit organization), Patandhoka, Lalitpur Description: The 8th edition of KIMFF is supposed to happen from 9-12 Dec 2010 and the submission will start from the early April.

The detailed information on entries guidelines is available at www.kimff.org Contact: +977 1 5542544, kimff@himalassociation.org

To enlist your events in this section, mail us your details at

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