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SEPTEMBER 2010
TIMES AFFILIATED TO NEPAL TOURISM BOARD
yourtravelcompanion
VOL. 2 | ISSUE 8
gauri shankar
Mountain Biking
trekking area on destination spotlight
42
A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY TO
naagdaha on PHOTOLOGUE
60
on adventure intro
Gai Jatra
70
on festival watch
84
PUSHKAR SHAH
cy wi cl th i se re ng
ll vie in w gc o yc f 7 le be s st
sp ec ial
One Nepali Cyclist. A Journey of Determination and Hope. For Peace Against all Odds.
BIKRUM PANDE
ChriSt the redeemer
48
66
an hour with
on Personality Review
on Global Treasure
Himalayan coffee
on Perfect Takeaways
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editorial
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Editorial Dear Readers,
on mountain biking should help you get
Here we are again, with our Cycling
you buy your first bike. Cycle on!
started. Also in this issue is a guide to help
Special Issue. And who better to kick
things off than Pushkar Shah – a man
As this issue comes out, the rains will have
country’s flag and travel the world to
creeps into busy Kathmandu. And what
who took it upon himself to carry the Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Editor aasha Ram Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager LABIN MANANDHAR Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Inhouse Writer NISHA SHAKYA Content Development Officer gaurav kandel Photographer Suresh Maharjan rOCKY PRAJAPATI Advisors A. Das gupta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Ramon Shrestha Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com
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begun to subside as the cold weather
spread the word of peace representing
better way to keep the cold at bay then
Nepal. But his journey was mired in
challenges as one would expect. True to
his word however, Pushkar Shah did what he set out to do and did us all proud.
In doing so, Shah has set an example,
to sip on some warm coffee. Prasanna Pandey writes about some of the
Himalayan variety available that is grown here in Nepal.
one that many Nepalese would do well
This and more is what’s inside this month.
emulating. Read on about his journey.
Read on. Happy Traveling!
For those of you who after reading the
The Editorial Team
story feel like picking up a bike and
pedaling away, our Adventure Intro story
Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
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Contents 12
Contents
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Pushkar Shah
gauri shankar
Cycling for World Peace
trekking area
on COVER STORY
1 1 years on the road, 150 countries, scaling the tallest peak in the world – Pushkar Shah is a hero. Find out why.
on destination spotlight
Explore this magical land where Gods,spirits and Goddesses still roam and man lives in harmony with nature.
24
42
Mountain Biking
60
Life on Two Wheels On adventure intro
As much fun as it is great for your health, learn about mountain biking as a possible new interest!
Himalayan coffee Locally Grown and Among the Finest in the World on perfect takeaways
ChriSt the redeemer
Some of the world’s finest coffee is now grown in Nepal! Find out more about your favorite drink! an hour with
bikrum pande
on Global Treasure
Learn more about why getting there is half the fun about the recently renovated statue of Christ in Rio, Brasil.
66
Nepali tourism’s Paryatankaar, Bikrum Pande talks about his journey in the tourism sector and his exciting new products.
a photoGraphic journey to
naagdaha
Festival of Life and Death on festival watch
What started to make a queen smile now is reason for huge celebrations on the capital’s streets. Find out what the commotion in the streets is about.
on personality review
90 48
Gai Jatra
80
on photologue
70
A majestic photographic tour to one of the coolest destinations within the valley itself, not far from the buzz of the town, yet seems to be.
84
Start traveling....with Travel Times 12 photo of the month
Reveal the best photography of the month.
14-18 Travel News
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.
19 Travelers’ gallery
Check the best captures sent to us by travelers.
SEPTEMBER 2010
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20 new in town
Besides a magnificient 143 ft. tall statue of Lord Shiva in Sanga, find one more reason to be there.
22 Airlines info
Oman Air, a new feather in cap, connecting Nepal to rest of the world more conveniently.
38 Health Times
The monsoon is pretty to watch but it can wreak havoc on your health. Learn how to stay on the safe side.
52 the everest hotel on HOTELS & CASINOS
56 Recommended Restaurants
A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.
64 BIKE REVIEW
With our cycling special issue, Travel Times presents a few of the best bike models available in the market.
13
TIMES SEPTEMBER 2010
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photomonth of the
by: rocky prajapati
“Kumari Ghar�, is the house of the living goddess Kumari who is considered as the incarnation of Hindu goddess Taleju. The three-storey traditional brick building has beautifully wood carved doors, windows and pillars.
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Travelnews
NATIONAL A successful “Nepal Day” was marked on September 3 at the Nepal Pavilion of Shanghai Expo 2010 going on in Shanghai.
“Nepal Day” at Shanghai Expo
The day was marked in coordination with Ministries of Foreign Affairs, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Information and Communications, Commerce and Supplies, Constituent Assembly, Federal Affairs, Parliamentary Affairs and Culture as well as Nepal Embassy in Beijing, Lumbini
Buddha Air lands in Paro Buddha Air, a leading domestic airline has now become the first international airline to operate flights to Bhutan. It formally extended its wings to international skies by operating its first commercial flight to Paro on August 23 and with this it has become another international airline of Nepal. An 18 seated Beech 1900D aircraft is used for service 4 days a week initially. However
the air service agreement between Nepal and Bhutan allows both sides to have seven flights a week between Kathmandu and Paro.
Development Trust and Nepal Tourism Board. The Nepal National Pavilion at the Expo has been able to attract the visitors as well as the Chinese media. More than 30 thousand visits the Pavilion every day and the artistic architecture presented at Nepal Pavilion has been center of attraction. The Expo which is held every five years will run till October 2010.
operating up to 12 flights or transporting 192 passengers to Paro per day.
The Druk kingdom with an offer to attract more international tourists permitted Buddha Air to operate flights to and from Paro. Buddha Air currently has 4 Beech 1900D planes and has the capacity of
ECO CYCLE RALLY use bicycles. Save fuel, save environment
Green Plus, a student organization for goodness of environment is organizing a bicycle rally on September 25, 2010 from Basantapur Durbar Square to Patan Durbar Square. With the slogan “Ride Bicycle, save the environment”, the cycle rally is being organized to encourage public to use bicycle to make the pollution free city and encourage youths to be a medium for eco-awareness. The Cycle-Rally has been managed for participation of environmentalist, politicians, media personnel, foreigner, students and youths. The program will start at 7:30 am from Basantapur.
Organised by:
G+ green plus
SEPTEMBER 2010
This event is put forward for the concept of cycle path in Kathmandu city. Bicycle, an eco-friendly means of transportation, can be helpful to mitigate the environment problems. Objectives: • Encourage public to use bicycle to make the pollution free city. • Encourage youths to be a medium for eco-awareness. • Pressurizing government to - Build the cycle path on the road. - Decrease tax in bicycle. - Government Officers should use bicycles at least once in a week
Co-organised by:
rotaract cLub of patan
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PROGRAM DETAILS
Date : 25th September 2010 Time : 7:00 AM onwards Route : Basantapur Durbar Square to Patan Durbar Square Participation : 300-400
T-shirt, lunch box, breakfast and Free dental checkup coupon
World cyclist, Pushkar Shah will inaugurate and lead the rally.
Supported by:
rotaract cLub of thamel
TRI-chandra campus
OFFICIAL MAGAZINE:
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Kathmandu Cycle City 2020
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Travelnews
Dutch Airline in Kathmandu Dutch Airline ArkeFly will soon be connecting Amsterdam with Kathmandu. The flight is scheduled to depart every Friday from the Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport at 22:05 hrs which will arrive in Kathmandu at 9:35 on Sunday morning. ArkeFly will be commencing its flights from October 1 until the last flight on April 23, 2011. The B737-800 jetliner will be used to bring in Dutch and other European passengers and will significantly contribute towards Nepal Tourism Year. Last year Arkefly flew 3000 passengers during 2009-10 seasons. Malla Travel & Treks, the general sales agent for Arkefly in Nepal is offering special introductory airfares and tour packages on the first three flights departing Kathmandu.
NTY-2011 at Washington Nepali professionals, community members and students of the WashingtonMetropolitan area organized a Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY-2011) promotion campaign on Sunday, August 15, 2010 at the National Mall, Washington, DC. The National Mall is a major tourist attraction in the capital surrounded by the US Capitol, Washington Monument and various museums. There were twenty volunteers who helped to promote the NTY-2011. They distributed brochures to the visitors during the event. The visitors were attracted by white T-shirts worn by the volunteers which had Nepal Tourism Year 2011 printed on the front and Visit Nepal 2011 on the back. The organizers said they have effectively managed to inform the visitors about the tourism promotion year and actively encouraged them to visit Nepal. A lot of excited tourists were provided with information about Nepal on various attractions and events, natural beauty, adventures and other travel information.
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NATIONAL
Dragon Air to start new flights to Kathmandu Dragon Air has added three more flights in its Kathmandu-Hong Kong route. After this addition, the Hong-Kong based airline has six weekly flights. Alasdair Boyd, country manager of the airlines, said in response to the growing numbers of passengers, the airline is increasing its flight to Kathmandu. “Kathmandu- Hong Kong has been an appropriate route for us,” Boyd said. He also expressed his hope that this increment in flight would be helpful in achieving the target of one million visitors to the country
during the Nepal Tourism Year. Dragon Air has been using Airbus A 330 for its flights to Kathmandu. The new flights were operated from September 1.
NTY 2011 in international arena
As the government has announced the year 2011 as Nepal Tourism Year, the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) has begun to promote NTY 2011 vigorously in the international arena. The NTB will be holding promotional campaign at the JATA World Travel Fair, Japan in September, in the United States in October and in
Britain and China in November. The government announced the NTY 2011 campaign on Oct. 25, 2008 in a bid to expand the tourism base as a national priority and mainstream tourism into the national development process. The promotion besides the Time and budget constraints been bedeviled by issues of improvement of Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). Bhola Bikram Thapa, member of the NTY 2011 implementation committee who is coordinating the aviation sector, said that there had been a slight improvement in services at TIA. However, the international airport needs to do more to provide full functional services, he added.
Oman Air lands Kathmandu
Oman Air, the national carrier of the Sultanate of Oman commenced its service from September 2nd making Kathmandu its 40th destination. The flight operates its service between Kathmandu and Muskat, the Omani capital. “Oman Air is very happy to add the Nepalese capital of Kathmandu to its network. Kathmandu is a much awaited destination, and Oman Air would like to extend its customers in the region the opportunity to experience one of the
most naturally beautiful landscapes in the world. Oman Air is pleased to support this growth with its new services”, said Peter Hill, CEO of Oman Air. A B737-800 aircraft of Oman Air offering Busines and Economy Class cabins are in operation 4 days a week on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Oman Air currently operates direct flights to major Gulf countries, South Asian and few European countries.
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interNATIONAL
Air Astana pens partnership with Abacus na’s full flight information and fares as part of its Competitive Booking Source (CBS) program, without being subject to the Commission Booking Deductible (CBD) that will accompany non-qualified GDS bookings beyond 1 January 2011. Abacus International, Asia’s leading revenue partner for airlines, has further established its market leadership position in the region by signing an agreement qualifying Abacus as a Competitive Booking Source for Air Astana. This enhanced partnership brings Abacusconnected travel agents a host of benefits, which includes complete access to Air Asta-
Kazakhstan is a very important market for Abacus and Partnerships, such as the one with Air Astana, have assisted Kazakhstan’s travel industry to grow and booking made through GDS are increasing at 24% year-onyear. Specifically, Air Astana is growing 16% of bookings via the GDS channel, a testament of the continued successful Kazakhstan’s travel sector enjoys.
New adds in UNESCO list The UNESCO, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization have added 21 new sites pushing up the list to 911. The UN organization which has been working to preserve world’s most precious sites and phenomena for decades has been actively working for its protection. Every year UNESCO meets to discuss which of the nominated sites of ‘outstanding uni-
1st Asian Bird Fair in Davao City
Birdwatchers, conservationists and ecotourism promoters from all over Asia and elsewhere have been waiting for the 1st Asian Bird Fair to be held in Philippines. According to the Wild Bird Club of Philippines, the First Asian Bird Fair will be held
in Davao City from 24 to 26 September, together with the 6th Philippine Bird Festival, the country’s premier avian conservation and eco-tourism event. The event is co-hosted by the Philippine Eagle Foundation and the Davao City government. The First Asian Bird Fair themed “Nurture Nature, Save our Future” highlights the respective bird festivals of the participating countries and seeks to enrich eco-tourism through bird watching and promote the natural and cultural heritage of host cities.
STB’s new initiatives to showcase Asian Tourism The Singapore Tourism Board (STB) is launching the first comprehensive travel and tourism festival, TravelRave, being held between the 18th and 29th of October 2010, in Singapore in order to bring together a series of key travel and tourism industry. Travel Rave looks for creating a regional marketplace where travel and tourism profession-
SEPTEMBER 2010
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als from across the entire industry including hospitality, airlines, attractions, integrated resorts, travel agents and associations can gather to share business best practices and industry insights which would serve as the basis for cross-sector collaboration. Besides this, Travel Rave also aims to celebrate Asia’s unique and versatile tourism landscape.
versal value’ should be added to the list, and which are no longer in danger. This year’s ten-day meeting in Barsilia made the addition to the UNESCO list. The UNESCO initiative goes back to 1959 when Egyptian government decided to create a massive dam which would have – among other areas - flooded the location of the ancient Abu Simbel temples. Eventually, these were relocated to a safe place and gradually, UNESCO grew. This year, the Bikini Atoll in the Marshall Islands or the Atsinanana rain forest in Madagascar, the Thang Long-Hanoi imperial citadel in Vietnam, the archeological site Sarazm in Tajikistan, the Episcopal city of Albi in France, and even a 17th-century canal ring in Amsterdam were among the 21 newly added sites.
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y r e l l a G ’ s Traveler
album, you will always come across Going through any travelers’ photo th away. These images have their brea one or two images that take your to a particular time and place. own stories to tell and they belong lly perfect but they bring a moment These images need not be technica t wonderful experiences of one’s to life, capture and preserve the mos again and again. It could ents life, and helps one relive those mom aps it’s the sight of an perh hing anyt be taken anywhere, and show streets of Kathmandu, a beautiful innocent child playing in the narrow sense of satisfaction on the face of sunrise or it could be the smile and tiresome day. a an exhausted worker at the end of pictures with our readers. Send Travel Times allows you to share your ils with brief captions and contact deta your high-resolution photographs ect. subj the as ry Galle ’ elers Trav to traveltimes.mag@gmail.com with
rbar Square on Krishnasta mi An occasional crowd at Patan Du By Sharan
A beautiful view
By M anish Sh arm of va lley from Dhulikhel a
shades, Beautiful play of light and Bhaktapur
vings in
in one of the ancient car
By Amit Shrestha
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Key features
newintown
• 16 AC Deluxe room for night stay •
Total health package, Disease Treatment Package, Slimming, Rejuvenation, Detoxification & Relaxation Package along different types of ayurvedic massages
hilltake health & homes One more reason to be at Kailashnath Mahadev
through natural remedies like physiotherapy, massages, Jacuzzi, acupuncture, colon therapy, mud therapy etc. The place even has facility of meditation, yoga and pranayams, kriyayog, & gymnasium.
“Om Namah Shivaya” is what one feels to recite on reaching the premises of the World’s tallest statue of Lord Shiva.
the statue today stands as a major center of attraction for everyone.
Set in the beautiful serene atmosphere of Sanga, the statue of Lord Shiva is Situated at Chhitpol-5, standing with his trishul held Kailashkut hill in Bhaktapur, on his left hand and a serpent the place “Kailashnath around his neck attired in a Mahadev” is just 20 kms tiger skin. The statue has zinc from Kathmandu. The covering topped with copper sculpture standing 143 ft was giving it a lustrous look. On a sole aspiration of Kamal the right hand, of the statue Jain, Chairman of Hilltake Industries Private Limited who are the beautiful sculptures of Parvati along with Ganesha dreamt of this magnificence and Kumar. The uphill after his visit to Gurgaon, Delhi where he saw the 65 feet toward the statue from the tall statue of Lord Shiva. After entrance has numerous Shivlingas built. 6 years of its construction, SEPTEMBER 2010
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The temple premise has a big clean garden for children to play and for people to wander around. Another major attraction of this place is children’s park with different amenities for them to play with, and jogging track of 1 km for a nature walk. The hilltop location of the temple gives ample opportunity to enjoy the wide view of the valley and panaroma of beautiful Himalaya. Situated at the backdrop of the temple is the “Hilltake Health and Homes Pvt. Ltd.” that provides you an ideal blend of health, home, nature and devotion. The lush green vegetation, pine trees and the quiet pollution free environment of the place certainly makes one forget the hustle and bustle of the city. Spread in over thousand square feet, the health home provide health facilities
“Hilltake Health and Homes Pvt. Ltd.” is one of its kind of a Health home with its unmatched facilities and services. It offers you various benefits with nominal fees. Family membership, Executive membership and Single membership are the different categories of membership available here with various benefits and facilities. Besides these, it also offers a Residence Package, Day’s Leisure Package and Half Day Package for those who want to spend a day at the Home. Not so far from the city if you need to get away from the hectic busy city life then “Kailashnath Mahadev” would be the perfect destination for you where you can not only relax your soul but also revitalize yourself with the natural therapy at the Health home.
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AIRLINESINFO
OMAN AIR MODERN VISION. TIMELESS TRADITION.
NOW IN NEPAL
Paris, Frankfurt and Munich.
With the aviation history of more than a decade, Oman Air, the national flag carrier of the Sultanate of Oman commenced its operation in 1993. Started off as a regional airline, Oman Air with its high performance standards has witnessed a rapid growth since the time of its establishment. Oman Air has played a major role in making Muskat a major traffic hub in the Middle East providing an incentive to commercial, industrial and tourism activities. It is the first airline in Gulf to introduce the brand new Boeing NG 737 aircraft series. It also holds a list of achievements to its credits.
The service is offered with a B737-800 aircraft offering Business and Economy Class cabins. The Oman Air fleet consists of most modern and fuel- efficient aircraft with aesthetically designed interiors. Ultra- modern in-flight service equipment is deployed onboard to improve safety and overall performance.Currently Oman Air’s fleet consists of Boeing 737-800, Airbus A330s, 15 B737-800s, two A330-200s and three A330-300s. Oman Air has also signed a contract with Embraer for purchase of five Embraer 175 aircraft from the E-jets family besides two additional Airbus A330-300.
The Oman Air embarked its services in Nepal from 2nd September 2010. Kathmandu is the 40th destination in the Oman Air network. Oman Air (WY) operates 4 days a week on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The scheduled flights depart at 18:05 and arrive that evening in Muscat at 20:45 local time offering connections to destinations in Middle East such as Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha, Bahrain, Dammam, Riyadh, Jeddah, Kuwait and Cairo as well as to other European cities as London,
With renowned services like First Class Mini Suite and lie-flat Business Class seat, Oman Air offers quality and greater level comfort and amenity. Oman Air was awarded the AHS 1000 excellence certificate from IATA for its quality and control standards and has also been certified by the prestigious ISO 9001 2000.
Flight Schedule:
FRANKFURT
LONDON PARIS
Flight from KATHMANDU to MUSCAT Flight No. : WY336 Aircraft : B737-800 Days Of Operation: Mon, Tues, Thurs, Sat Departure: 1805 hours Arrival: 2045 hours
MUNICH
CAIRO
AMMAN
JEDDAH
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KATHMANDU
KUWAIT
DAMMAM BAHRAIN DOHA ABU DHABI RIYADH
DUBAI
MUSCAT
B737-800 AIRCRAFT Business Class 12 Seats 40 Inch Pitch Economy Class 144 Seats 32 Inch Pitch Cabin Crew Seat Toilet Gallery Exit
This airlines info is brought to you by:
Easier. Faster. Cheaper. United World Trade Center (Ground Floor) Tripureshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal T +977 1 4117122, 9841593441, 98010 56789 F +977 1 4117122 E info@eticketnepal.com W www.eticketnepal.com
*Conditions apply
*Inclusive of applicable Taxes Pardi, Pokhara, Nepal. Tel.: 977-61-460210, Fax: 977-61-460211 Reservation: Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal. Tel: +977-1-4005030/ 4431347 Fax: 977-1-4005029, E-mail: salesktm@pokharagrande.com Website: www.pokharagrande.com
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COVERSTORY
Pushkar Shah
cycling for world peace
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Pushkar Shah cycled through 150 countries and successfully climbed Mt. Everest upon his return home. He carried with him the flags of the countries that he had visited. Did he think he’d be heralded as a hero and paraded in the streets of the capital? Did he think he’d be able to singlehandedly bring peace to his troubled country? Should we be obliged to do anything for him or do the certificates of appreciation that the government awarded him suffice?
Words Utsav Shakya Photos Courtesy Pushkar Shah
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CoverStory
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If the media did stories on him when he came back home a few times in between to take a break, either the stories didn’t make the headlines or I was simply unaware of it.
CoverStory
When I blogged about Pushkar Shah, his journey and what a soup he’s in a while ago, titled “Around the world in 11 years (and nothing to show for it)”, I got some mixed responses. Some of my readers were unsympathetic. “I think what he did was “nice”. But just that; he had a dream and he got recognition for biking around the world with the message of peace. Doesn’t that mean his objective was to travel and to bring peace? What does Nepal as a state have to do with it? He didn’t go through the ministry of foreign affairs with the Nepali agenda at hand.” While some were more so - “Pushkar Shah should have humility, as any hero should, and we –the people whom he represented around the world for eleven years, meeting and winning hearts of thousands of people in hundreds of countries with no other identity than the one we share with him–we should lionize him, call him a hero, as he rightly is. We owe him praise, laurels, a chariot-ride through the forum, and goodwill until that day when he squanders it.” Both views seemed justified but I have to admit, I wasn’t exactly sure what to think of it all; until I met the man. Before meeting, I did not know what to expect of him. I had first read about him in Wave maga-
29
zine, which carried his journal entries. In simple words he’d illustrate easily about life on the road as he carried the Nepali flag and cycled for peace around the world. But I didn’t read Wave so regularly and for a few years in between, I forgot about Pushkar Shah. If the media did stories on him when he came back home a few times in between to take a break, either the stories didn’t make the headlines or I was simply unaware of it. After cycling a total of 221,000 kilometers, he called it a day and finally got back home more than a year ago. A few stories were done on him, a few pictures made it into the papers. This was when I heard about Pushkar Shah again. On the television, he seemed serious, even a bit sad. His answers to the questions asked were short, to the point and punctuated regularly by sharp satire. Every word seemed weighed and wise. I took an immediate liking to this guy who seemed not to care about how he was perceived by the media and who, quite obviously, did not enjoy TV interviews. What Shah is, is a 21st century patriot – albeit one who sticks out like a sore thumb. All he set out to achieve was that which he thought was his part to play. And played the part he did - through physi-
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CoverStory
cal confrontations with thieves and thugs, though having his cycle and other equipment being stolen and so many nights without dinner that he got used to sleeping on an empty stomach. The first time around, Shah seemed guarded and answered only what he was asked. He let on about being in a tight spot financially but did not disclose much. His eyes, seemed always to be sad and heavy with emotion. The second time we met, Shah was noticeably more relaxed and in the mood to talk about his travels, his experiences and his grievances. He also reacted to comments I read out from my blog. “I don’t expect a prize from the government. It is true, I did not go on a government mission and no one owes me anything. All I want is for my knowledge of these countries and its people which is what I came back home with, to be used, to find a proper channel so that it can help us Nepalis.” Shah claims that he has 4000 pages of text - handwritten accounts of his travels, thousands of pictures SEPTEMBER 2010
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and many, many hours of video from eleven years of peddling around the world; enough perhaps for a few lessons if not anything else? Could some advice from a man who’s traveled the world and soaked up some culture hurt a tourism sector that’s expecting a wind fall with its Nepal Tourism Year 2011 campaign? What do foreigners expect when they travel, what do they look for, what are their expectations from a trip to Nepal? Shah talked to thousands of people who were interested in coming to Nepal over his travels. Wouldn’t he come in handy to the tourism sector, to the policy makers at a time like this? Shah has tried to be patient though. He understands how inefficient the Nepali government is and like so many of us, he is frustrated with it. Even so, as planned after getting back to Kathmandu, seeing his mother again and taking a short break, he trained to and finally scaled Mt. Everest to round off his journey around the world by ending it in a place many call the roof of the world.
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To read into some snippets of his journal entries over the years he pedaled around the world, is to try and understand this old soul and his journey better.
Australia, Sydney The young spoke English while the elders spoke Nepali with a heavy Newari accent. Even in Sydney, I felt as if I was in a mha puja in Bhaktapur.” Traveling once through a thickly forested area, somewhere in Australia, Pushkar writes: “Found black ainselu in abundance in the jungle and had a stomach-full. A man on a cycle said ‘don’t eat, you’ll die’. When I replied, “You can taste too, if you want to die,” the man went away smiling. Poor guy! What would he know about [having] natural fruits? For people like him they are grown in supermarkets.
They wouldn’t recognize a cow even if they had been drinking cow milk all their lives. They have to go to the zoo to see a cow.” This was around the time when Tihar was around the corner back home in Nepal. Missing home a great deal, he writes about how he wanted to celebrate Tihar playing deusi (a song and dance routine where youth visit houses
in the neighborhood and sing and dance in exchange for sweets and sometimes money) with fellow Nepalis in Sydney. Deusi in Sydney never happened but he did get to celebrate Mha Puja, a popular and important self worshipping custom of the Newar community in Nepal. Organized by the Newar community in Sydney, it was richly attended by a lot of Newar families. It’s amazing how the most unexpected
things remind one of home. Of this he writes: “The feast afterwards consisted of various Newari delicacies - choela, kachila, aalu tama and beaten rice. The young spoke English while the elders spoke Nepali with a heavy Newari accent. Even in Sydney, I felt as if I was at a mha puja in Bhaktapur.”
America | New York
Cuba
He was supported by a large number of Nepalese people whom he says opened up their hearts and homes to him.
He said he could arrange for girls if I wanted. I am more anxious about finding a place for the night.
good time, helped by many beers. The party was still on when we headed for home at 2 AM. An African American stopped me on the way, ‘Give me ten dollars,’ he said. I asked him why. He said he needed it. I contemplated Pushkar taking out my khukuri (traditional spent the most amount of Nepali knife) from my bag and using time in America, traveling across it. There was no one around. I told many states, meeting perhaps the him that I didn’t have $10, that I too largest section of the Nepali diaspora was a beggar. He asked, ‘Are you abroad. For a total of six months, sure?’ I said I was. He took out his Pushkar worked odd jobs, traveled gun, pointed it at me and said, ‘You from state to state, interacted with don’t have the right to live if you his countrymen and did quite a don’t even have $10.’ Hurriedly I bit of sightseeing in the land of said, ‘Wait, wait!’ thinking this guy opportunities. He was supported would definitely kill me now and it by a large number of Nepalese would be unwise to give up my life people whom he says opened up for $10. I fished out a 20 dollar bill their hearts and homes to him. His from my wallet, handed it to him experiences in America were varied. and asked for $10 back. He smiled, put the gun back and walked away “In the evening I went to the Kasturi saying, ‘I won’t ask you if I meet you Country Club, where I met a few of again.’ ‘Don’t meet me again,’ I said my old pals from back home. I had a and continued on my way.
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In Cuba, in Pushkar’s words - a communist country in the western world, a headache for America right under its nose – he found the system as corrupt as anywhere else in the developing world. Shah writes: “It was already 5:50 when we landed at the Jose Marti La Habana International Airport in Havana. Immigration is a headache for me and them as well. I do not have a return ticket or a hotel reservation. Somehow my bicycle didn’t come through. I was again stopped at customs. They made me wait for 15 minutes. I later realized they were expecting a bribe. I did not see any reason to bribe them and showed them today’s Nassau Garden newspaper. They were surprised and amazed. Finally I came out of the airport.” But he also saw some things he liked and possibly thought his country could adopt. “The city was 26
kilometers away. Taxis conducted by the government have the same rates, 18 dollars to get to the city. Drivers are allowed to drive alternate days only, two drivers for one taxi.” The taxi driver who drove Shah though, Raul, had other talents too. “He started talking to me about girls. He told me that he has four girlfriends besides his wife. He said he could arrange for girls if I wanted. I am more anxious about finding a place for the night.”
UK, London
Syria, Maloula
We were there till 11 PM eating momos and drinking ‘Nepali’ beer with names like ‘Kathmandu’, ‘Gurkha’ and ‘Khukuri’.
Maybe they thought I was a rich man, they had no idea about my life.
It was still cold and cloudy when I arrived in London, the first on my list of destinations around Europe. Following the special ‘cycle-paths’, I made my way to the centre of the city where my host and guide, Marie, has an apartment. During my three-day stay at her place, she took me sightseeing. I’d always dreamt of visiting Buckingham Palace and the Tower Bridge and I was fortunate enough to have my wish fulfilled. The Tower Bridge is one of the most recognized bridges in the world. It is simply magnificent. A week later, I had to look for another place to stay, this
time, in West Ealing. I reached my host’s house at 5:30 PM as we had decided but the house was empty. Two hours passed and I decided to leave but not before writing a little note. Then I remembered someone I’d met at the Nepali Embassy. Sushil Thapa had given me his phone number and address in case I ever needed his help. I called Sushil. Unfortunately, his house was more than two hours southeast of West Ealing and it was too late for me to travel that distance. But he assured me that he would find someone to help me.
Finally, the pay phone rang; it was Bijaya, a Nepali living in West Ealing. He said he’d be there to pick me up within 30 minutes and he was prompt. I dropped off my bike at his house and we went for dinner at a Nepali restaurant called ‘Munal’. We were there till 11 PM eating momos and drinking ‘Nepali’ beer with names like ‘Kathmandu’, ‘Gurkha’ and ‘Khukuri’, all of which were made in London. I had a ship to catch at 2:45 AM. Ireland, here I come.
Turkey ‘Pushkar Shah, this is the last call for you to board the plane.’ I ran to the gate. I was the last passenger. Shah’s journey represents every life with many ups and downs. One minute he’d be faced with a crippling dilemma and the next, just like that, someone would appear to help him, a god send, a sign that he was doing a good thing. Of being fined for overstaying in Instanbul, he writes: “The immigration officer charged me $120. All I had was $100. I couldn’t do anything except to pleade to the immigration officer to consider my position and maybe charge me a little less. The queue was
getting longer by the minute with more and more people coming in to settle their fines. I begged the officer but with his English bordering on the weaker side, most of my pleas landed on deaf ears. My eyes were full of tears. Crestfallen, I went back to the immigration officer. Somebody saw me crying in front of the officer and asked what the matter was. Even the rude immigration officer had the heart to explain my problem to him. The stranger didn’t say anything
but just opened his wallet and gave me $50. I gave $150 to the police and got $30 in change. I wanted to give the rest of the change to that person but he was kind enough to let me keep it. I gave him my visiting card and ran to the immigration office as the speakers called out to me: ‘Pushkar Shah, this is the last call for you to board the plane.’ I ran to the gate. I was the last passenger.
I met Peter at an internet café several times before he introduced himself. He was a businessman and worked in Tunisia for a Hong Kong fashion company. He invited me to his apartment and even offered to let me stay there if I wanted to. I agreed because that meant I would save on the hotel money and Tunis is an expensive town. While Peter was at work, his landlord would always come and talk to me. She was a housewife and didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak any Arabic so our conversations were through sign language. Her four daughters, who were very pretty like most Muslim girls, understood a bit of English. Tunisian Muslim girls don’t wear a burka like Muslims in other countries. Every evening on returning, Peter, his landlord and I would talk away into the night. I’d tell them about my experiences which they found funny. Peter would translate for us. This was when the landlord offered to get one of her daughters married to me making it my seventh proposal over the course of this trip. She would start asking me which daughter I wanted to marry at which her daughters would get very excited. Maybe they thought I was a rich man, they had no idea about my life.
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New Zealand “Everyone headed out. The cycle was not where I had left it. Who could have lifted a cycle so heavy? “I don’t expect much from my government… just two meals a day for the period of my journey. My government cannot fulfill this small request. I am traveling around the world leaving behind my own domestic responsibilities, to make my country known all over the world. …I sometimes feel that I should not be doing this. Don’t I have a dream to buy a pharia for my mother? Don’t I have a dream to educate my brothers and sisters? Putting aside all these moral responsibilities, I am on a journey to benefit my nation.” In New Zealand, where his cycle got stolen, Pushkar finally asked himself if what he was doing was worth it. He writes of this frustration towards his government,
At a program there to felicitate him, just as he was being introduced, someone brought in the news that his bicycle had been stolen. “Everyone headed out. The cycle
was not where I had left it. Who could have lifted a cycle so heavy? We thought someone was playing a practical joke. Everyone was shocked. I suddenly developed a headache. Everyone tried to comfort me.” I couldn’t sleep the whole night, my mind was occupied with the cycle issue. I was thinking of ways to continue on my journey. Would my journey be stopped because of this? I lost my appetite for food. A lot of people called to express their sympathy. NZ-1 television station heard about the theft and came to cover the news. At 5 in the evening, the police called to say the bike had been found. The cycle itself was in a bad condition - there was no mile meter, a bag was gone, all spare
parts were gone too, my trousers and a number of new t-shirts, small idols of Buddha, a Swatch watch - all were gone. I found my cycle, but there was not much to console myself with.” There was however a silver lining to his time in New Zealand. “June Hillary had called me yesterday immediately after the news on NZ-1. NZ-1 television crew had reached the Hillary residence before me. The Hillary couple was waiting for me. My age old dream was fulfilled today. I met Edmund Hillary, shook hands with him and could not resist hugging him. Before even beginning the conversation, he asked for forgiveness for the bike. I saluted my hero as I departed after chatting for two hours.”
IRELAND His kitchen and dining room are always packed with people, his couch is never free. In Ireland for two weeks, the personnel at the immigrations office, insisted he stay a month and gave a visa for the same duration. “You’ve come to the most beautiful place in the world,” said the official to Shah. Pushkar writes, “Ireland is truly breathtaking, with green stretches
Japan, 2000
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of land and yellow flowers on both sides of the road. All I could see were sheep and cows, villages were infrequent and quite a few people were dozing off in the meadows. It took me three days to get to Dublin, the capital of Ireland.” There he met a Nepali, Suman,
who informed him of a welcoming ceremony organized by the NepalIreland society in Montis attended by students, workers and even Nepali refugees. He was touched by how Suman was helping Nepali people out in a land so far from home, without any kind of incentive.
China, 2000
“People consider Suman’s apartment the Nepali consulate in Dublin and think of him as the Consul. In my opinion, he is a much bigger person as he doesn’t charge money for all the help he provides. His kitchen and dining room are always packed with people, his couch is never free.”
Malay asia, 2000
Niagra Falls, USA, 2001
St. Kitts, Caribbean, 2001
Tanzania, 2007
7
200 Rwanda,
Norway 2002
Andora 2008
9 Dubai, 200
Greece, 2008
Appreciation from National President, 2010
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Traveling the world, Shah’s fondness for a good drink was fully exercised as he savored the many flavours of the world. As a fond reminder of these times, Shah collected the caps of those bottles. These were put on display at Pushkar Shah’s exhibitions of memorabilia and cycle gear.
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Carrying the country’s flag for a record 11 years and travelling a total of 150 countries, Pushkar Shah’s journey is one of a kind and truly inspired. Dedicating the prime years of his life to such a noble cause, Shah’s achievements have surely set the bar high for leading by example if not to have set a new world record.
In a day and age where people put themselves before anything and everything, Pushkar Shah is a true hero. His story is a shining example of the power of one. Of one man, his one dream and how he achieved it. But still people ask why and for what he did it all for. Shah’s answered these questions many times and opts just to smile when faced
with these questions these days. The closest thing to a reply to these questions that he offers is this: “We all have our roles to play in life. Everyone’s role is equally important. Some work in a bank, some in a bakery. My role was to travel the world and do what I could to bring peace to my country and tell the world about this amazing land.”
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hEALTHTIMES
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health S tay i n g
while traveling in monsoon
By Dr. Ravi Shankar Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.
The heat is enervating. The land swelters under the angry glare of the sun. People huddle beneath fans and air conditioners miserably, in the high temperatures. Rivers, streams and wells run dry. Man and nature are at the end of the proverbial tether. Suddenly black clouds gather. Thunder cracks. Lightning flashes. The rains come down fast and strong providing much needed relief to the parched earth. The monsoon, the annual South Asian weather phenomenon is not completely understood. Life in this region however literally depends on it. The monsoon brings along a set of health challenges. Cities become deluged in the heavy rains. The monsoon glaringly highlights the shortcomings of our city planning, drainage and public health. Traveling during the monsoon is difficult. Rivers in spate wash away bridges and roads. In Nepal, landslides affect the trails and occasionally whole villages are destroyed. The monsoon brings down the high summer temperatures but increases humidity. The rains settle the dust in the atmosphere and the bright sunlight is harsh on the skin. Abrupt changes in temperature increase the likelihood of viral fevers. The monsoon increases water levels in rivers and also chances of sewage and contaminated water mixing with drinking water. Allow water to sediment and then boil or treat it chemically. Avoid eating ice cream or cold drinks outside unless you are confident about it.
Viral infections Many viral infections are spread by droplets released in the air when an infected person sneezes, coughs or even talks. Avoid prolonged contact with an infected person. Be sure to eat a nutritious diet and plenty of fruits to maintain immunity. Dry yourself thoroughly if you happen to be drenched in the rains. Drink warm fluids and wear dry clothes. Vitamin C has been used to reduce the incidence and frequency of colds and other viral infections but recent evidence casts doubts on its effectiveness. Many other nutrients have been recommended for prevention but hard evidence is lacking. SEPTEMBER 2010
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Snakes can be both, poisonous or non-poisonous. Its venom can affect our blood or the nervous system. Snake bites Snake bites may be more frequent during the monsoon as snakes come out due to water flooding their burrows. Snakes can be both, poisonous or non-poisonous. Its venom can affect our blood or the nervous system. In a previous issue, we had looked at managing snake bites. Preventing the spread of poison to other areas is important. Anti-snake venom can be administered in hospitals.
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healthtimes
Viral hepatitis Hepatitis (infection and inflammation of the liver) caused by hepatitis A virus (HAV) spreads by the feco-oral route. The virus is excreted out in the feces and due to poor hygiene and food handling practices enters the food and drinking water and infects another person. Nausea, vomiting, feeling unwell, fever and jaundice may be noticed. Eating well cooked food, avoiding unwashed fruits, raw vegetables and salads, and storing cooked food properly can help protect from HAV infection. An immune globulin containing antibodies to HAV provides immediate protection and can be used for persons who come into close contact with infected individuals. Vaccines for the same are available.
be seen. The Widal test and blood culture are commonly used for diagnosis. The bacteria causing typhoid is slowly becoming resistant to commonly used antibiotics due to misuse and newer and more expensive medicines may be required. Maintaining good hygiene and eating properly cooked food can reduce chances of the disease. A typhoid vaccine also offers protection.
Leptospirosis Leptospirosis is favored by a tropical climate and flooding during monsoons. Rats excrete this disease causing organism in their urine. Human infection occurs while wading through contaminated water collected in flooded fields and streets. Entry is made easier if there are cuts or breaks in the skin. Fever, severe muscle pain, headache, diarrhea, photophobia (inability to tolerate bright light), small bleeding spots in the conjunctiva (the membrane covering the eye ball), jaundice, bleeding and fall in blood pressure can occur. The disease can be treated with antibiotics like doxycycline (a broad spectrum medicine which acts against many types of bacteria); benzyl penicillin and newer antibiotics can be used. Avoid wading in flooded streets as far as possible. Farm workers in areas where the disease is common are at high risk. Personal protection equipment, applying water proof plasters and other dressings over wounds can reduce transmission. Nepal is believed to be at risk of the disease but studies are lacking.
Typhoid fever Typhoid (also known as enteric fever since it mainly affects the intestinal tract) and the closely related paratyphoid fever are common in Nepal. The disease like many other diseases of developing nations is spread feco-orally. The disease peaks during the monsoon. Fever, headache, muscle pain, diarrhea, a slow heart rate, pain in the abdomen and enlargement of the spleen may
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Amebic dysentery Dysentery is the passage of blood and mucus in stool. In Nepal and other countries for treatment it is differentiated from diarrhea which is passage of loose watery stools. An ameba (relative of the one you studied in school) called Entameba histolytica is responsible. Dysentery may alternate with constipation, the abdomen is tender and there may be fever. The organism also produces cysts. Metronidazole (metron) is the main stay of treatment followed by diloxanide furoate to destroy the cysts. Like other diseases, hygiene plays an important role in prevention. Bacteria may also cause a similar disease.
and rashes especially in the finger webs are seen. Benzyl benzoate and gamma benzene hexachloride application are the main treatments. As the disease is very contagious also treat all members of your party.
Conjunctivitis Conjunctivitis is infection of the conjunctiva. Redness and a gritty feeling in the eye are common. The infection can be caused by viruses or bacteria. Antibiotic eye drops could be used to reduce symptoms in bacterial infections.
Leeches Leeches are a major hurdle while trekking in the monsoon. Covering exposed skin can
Skin infection Fungal infection may be a problem because clothes do not dry well in the monsoon. Also clothes washed in dirty water may get infected. If traveling be careful how your hotel handles its laundry! Keeping the groin, your feet and arm pits dry and clean can reduce the risk. If you are planning to do a lot of walking then cotton socks and breathable footwear are recommended. While you rest, remove your shoes and socks and allow your feet to dry. Scabies, a disease caused by a small organism called a mite is common in Nepal. Itching
reduce bites. Salt and kerosene application to the skin may help. Opinion varies about whether leeches can be pulled off from the skin. Some say while being pulled off the leech may regurgitate its stomach contents increasing risk of infection. To stop bleeding apply pressure to the area. Watch for any signs of wound infection.
The monsoon brings with it a whole set of health threats and hazards. A few basic precautions will ensure you avoid most of these. Traveling in the monsoon has its problems but in many places especially the trekking areas of Nepal the trails and lodges are less crowded, plant and animal life is plentiful and the light can at times be magical. The rewards are yours if you can brave the leech, a small annelid worm which brings many big, burly individuals to grief! mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to
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Destinationspotlight
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gauri shankar trekking area Words Ravi Shankar Photos Courtesy: Eco Himal
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Mt. Gaurishankar is the reference point for Nepal’s unique time zone. Have you ever wondered about how Nepal Standard Time (NST) originated? According to a book on the Gauri Shankar trekking area sunrise on the summit of the holy mountain, Mt. Gaurishankar is the reference point for Nepal’s unique time zone. Gaurishankar (also spelt Gauri Shankar), the abode of the Goddess Gauri (Parvati) and Shankar (Shiva) the destroyer of the Hindu trinity at 7146 m is not a particularly high mountain but for a long time it was confused with Mt. Everest, the highest mountain on Earth.
Why trek in this area? Location of the the wealth of trekking areas in Nepal the Gaurishankar trekking With question naturally arises why you should choose area this area to spend your holidays. The region is
The trekking area is situated about 150 km from Kathmandu, the national capital. The dual snowy summits of Gaurishankar, dominate the region which extends for about 20 km from north to south between the Tibetan border and the Lamosangu-Jiri highway and about 50 km from west to east from the Sun Koshi River near Barabhise to the Rolwaling valley proper just west of the Everest region. The region includes northern parts of two districts, Sindhupalchok and Dolakha with the ridge of Kalinchok danda forming the barrier between the two. About one hundred thousand people live in this beautiful region which has been recently developed as a trekking area by Eco-Himal, an Austrian nongovernmental organization (NGO) with the help of local communities.
easily accessible from Kathmandu. Barabhise one of the starting points is less than three hours by microbus and there are also good transport facilities to Charikot, the headquarters of Dolakha. The region offers beautiful views of Mt. Gaurishankar and the Rolwaling and Lapchi ranges. Most of the trekking is at relatively low altitudes below 3000 m. Many ethnic groups like Sherpas, Tamangs, Newars, higher caste Hindus, Thamis, Magars, Gurungs, Sunuwars and Hindu occupational castes make a fascinating cultural mosaic. The trek is ‘off the beaten track’ but easily accessible. Active Buddhist and Hindu religious sites are common and the region is relatively untouched.
Bigu gompa Bigu gompa (also called Tashi gompa) is a large residential nunnery that houses over 60 Buddhist nuns. I count myself lucky to have visited the spectacular gompa last Tihar. The village of Bigu is a three day trek from Barabhise and you have to cross the 3300 m high Tingsang pass. The communityowned lodge is right at the top of a steep hill. The nunnery situated in a grove of old junipers was founded in 1934 by a lama from Bhutan and a local Sherpa headman. The original gompa had a prayer hall (lhakhang) and two rows of private residences for the nuns. The monastery has the golden figure of Chenrezig (Avalokiteswara), the Tibetan Bodhisattva of compassion. In the four walls there are one thousand miniature statues of Chenrezig.
Dolangsa gompa (Shylabung gompa) This gompa is situated above the village of Dolangsa two days walk from Barabhise. The community owned lodge is just above the gompa. It was founded in the mid-1940s by Lobsang lama, a practitioner of Nyingma Buddhism from Tibet. The gompa has a close relationship with Bigu gompa and this is a typical village gompa with a householder lama. There are also gompas in Simigaon and Beding in the upper valley. The Beding gompa according to local beliefs was built more than thousand years ago.
Hindu temples The main Hindu temples are Bhimsenthan in Dolakha town, the mountain top shrine of Kalinchok, the Chakreshwori temple, the Tenekhu temple and the sacred Baula Pokhari lakes. In times of political crisis in Nepal Dolakha Bhimsen has been known to sweat with liquid oozing from the shiny black stone. This happened in 1949 before the Rana Prime ministers were overthrown, in 1990 during pro-democracy demonstrations and just before the June 2001 Royal massacre. Many Hindu deities are worshipped by the non-Hindu Tamangs and Thamis under different names. Kalinchok is a hill sacred to various ethnic groups. The mountain top is the abode of Goddess Kali Mai, the eldest sister of all female deities inhabiting the region.
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destinationSpotlight
A spectacular panorama of Mt. Gaurishankar and Menlungtse peak delights trekkers. Clockwise: • A spectacular waterfall by Chhetchhet • Lodge in Bigu, for trekkers’ convenience • Chekigo on TIbet Border • On trail to Bulung • Bigu Gompa proudly overlooking the valley • On the wide high trail near Bulung
The upper Rolwaling area The Gauri Shankar area merges with the Rolwaling trekking area and one can reach Thame in the Everest region by crossing the technical Tashi Lepcha. The upper valley is a ‘beyul’ or refugee where Tibetan Buddhism can find a sanctuary and be revitalized after challenges. In the eighth century Padmasambhava (the Guru Rimpoche) subdued five female demons residing in Gauri Shankar. Shiva spends his time in Gauri Shankar in meditation and is intolerant of human interference. A story goes that Shiva spies a group of mountaineers toiling up Gauri Shankar. Shiva wants to send down avalanches and storms to sweep away the mountaineers. Goddess Parvati tells her Lord to be patient as she wants to see the color of the leader’s eyes. The mountaineers come closer and Parvati notices the leader is very handsome with blue eyes. She tells Lord Shiva now you can do as you wish and Shiva sends an avalanche sweeping down the mountaineers to their death. The upper valley was settled only recently and the highland pastures can be used only after they are ritually opened by a ceremony conducted by lamas.
Reaching the upper valley: The trek to the upper valley starts from the village of Singati. From Singati you can go to Orang and Jagat. Multiple trails join at Orang where there is a lodge run by the villagers. There are stunning
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views of the Bhote Koshi valley, Simigaon and Gauri Shankar. From Orang at 1900 m it is a long descent to Gongar Khola where there is a shop and a community lodge. From Gongar Khola it is a four hour walk to the settlement of Simigaon. The trail through a forest follows the river and reaches the tea houses of Chetchet. After crossing a suspension bridge it is a long climb to Simigaon which can be translated as ‘beanville’. The story goes a hunter dropped a handful of beans which he had brought with him for eating at this place. A year later he found the beans had sprouted and thinking this was a fertile place he settled here. Simigaon (2100 m) is a Sherpa village. Renorbu Sherpa, a villager was a runner for Sir Edmund Hillary and today is engaged in attracting tourists to his village. The trek up is along the Rolwaling River. The forests of rhododendron, magnolia, oak and deodar are spectacular. Beding (3500 m) and Na (4200 m) are the two main villages in the upper valley. A spectacular panorama of Mt. Gaurishankar and Menlungtse peak delights trekkers. Above Na village the route meanders up to the high altitude Tsho Rolpa Lake and to the lateral moraines of the Rolwaling glacier passing below the Rolwaling Icefall (5181m). After two day of rugged glacier walking one reaches the high Tashi Lapcha (which has many alternative spellings) pass (5755m). On the other side of the Tashi Lapcha, the trail drops down into Theng Po and Thame village (3800m) in the Khumbu Valley.
On the way there are dramatic views of Ramdung peak (5945m) and Pharchamo (6187m).
Beding: Beding is a typical Sherpa village with well built houses. Though there is no lodge Sherpa families may be willing to take in travelers. Traditional Sherpa foods like boiled potatoes, soups will be available in contrast to the westernized menus in the Khumbu. High up above Beding there is an old gompa. The Tibetan border is nearby. From Beding it is a gentle climb to Na. Just before Na the valley opens up and in summer alpine flowers are in bloom. Na is the summer settlement of Beding and on clear weather days offers the option of day hikes to Tsho Rolpa Lake and the holy Dudh Kunda, Yalung Ri (a spectacular view point) and Guru Rimpoche’s cave. Tsho Rolpa is one of the lakes at high risk of glacial outburst floods in Nepal.
Different treks in this area: The trekking region is easily accessible. Barabhise one of the starting points is only a four hour ride by bus or microbus on the Arniko Rajmarga to Kodari and the Tibet border. The other entry and exit point is Singati which is an eight to ten hour bus ride from Kathmandu. Treks of 4-5 days, 7 days, 9 days, 10 days, and 14-17 days can
mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to
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be organized. Last Tihar I did a 5 day trek in this beautiful region. The treks are only of moderate difficulty and except in the upper Rolwaling valley stay at an altitude below 3500 m.
Developing the trekking region: Eco Himal is an Austrian non-governmental organization (NGO) based in Salzburg which has been involved in various developmental activities in Nepal. The Rolwaling Eco Tourism development Project (RETP) was started in 1997 and aims at generating jobs through tourism designed to bring economic benefits to the region and promote the conservation of the environment and the cultural heritage. RETP was phased out and handed over to the community in December 2008. RETP covered a total of 12 VDCs, 24 settlements and an estimated population of 12000. From the beginning the project concentrated on involving local villagers in developmental activities. Twenty community development cooperatives (CDCs) were established in various villages and these were involved in developing basic infrastructure like toilets, bridges, drinking water and improving trails. In the second stage emphasis was on developing tourist infrastructure. Special care was taken to ensure participation of depressed communities, ethnic groups and women in the cooperatives. Community-owned lodges are built like a village mountain home with two
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Traditional Sherpa foods like boiled potatoes, soups will be available in contrast to the westernized menus in the Khumbu. Clockwise: • Beauties near Bigu • Nepali handmade paper • Drinking water projects completed by Eco Himal. • Trekkers infront of Loting Community lodge • Faith healer in Bigu • Beding, at 3700 m
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Visit this magical land where Gods, spirits and Goddesses still roam and man lives in harmony with nature.
Let’s go Getting there: The two road heads are Barabhise a four hour drive from Kathmandu and Singati an eight to ten hour drive. From these settlements you can plan treks of various durations. The trek can be combined with the Everest one by crossing the technical Tashi Lepcha. Attempt this only if your party is well equipped and has mountaineering experience. When to go? The months from mid-October to December may be the best time. In late December there may be snow in the higher reaches. March to mid April may also be fine. After mid-April it may be too hot in lower elevations Permissions if needed: At present no specific permissions are needed except for the upper valley which falls within the Rolwaling area. A Gaurishankar conservation project may soon be started.
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stories and a verandah. The lodge foundation was laid by locals as a voluntary community effort. For the rest of the construction Eco Himal employed locals on wages. The first lodge was completed in Loting in 2001 followed soon after by Bigu. The last lodge to be completed was at Karthali. In all eight lodges were constructed. Sixteen community campsites were also completed mainly in the lower valley. Due to haphazard road construction only two campsites, at Chilankha and Bulung are functioning at present. The campsites were planned at places where trekkers stopped for lunch while lodges were constructed at areas where they stayed overnight. Eco Himal handed over the lodges to local CDCs which were renamed as Tourism Development Cooperatives (TDCs). Local villagers were trained in various aspects of lodge management. Many lodges are run on a lease model where every year members of the TDC bid for running the lodge for a oneyear period. Organized tour or going alone: Both are possible. Community lodges are present in many areas. In others campsites are available. A lot of road building is going on and landslides occur making trail finding difficult in places. A local will be a useful guide. Equipments: Most of the trek is at low elevation. Sleeping bags may be useful. For exploring the upper valley warm clothes may be useful. For crossing Tashi Lepcha mountaineering equipment may be needed. Trek details: Maximum elevation: 4600 m (Tsho Rolpa Lake) Transportation: Bus Trek grade: Moderate to easy Trek highlights: Scenic drive to Barabhise and Singati, diverse ethnic groups, Bigu Gompa, Tingsang La, views of Mt. Gauri Shankar, upper
Villagers were also trained in producing local handicrafts and in organic farming of fruits and vegetables. These are planned to be sold to trekkers at a fair price. I had organically grown vegetables at Karthali and Bigu on my trek and organically grown pineapples at Karthali. I end with an interesting legend about Kal Pokhari, a lake by the Ramdung pass in the upper reaches of this trekking area. In the lake there lives a spirit who guards the peace and quiet of the place and the mountains. The slightest noise makes the spirit extremely angry and it whips up the water and throws the offender into the lake. Most trekkers and locals creep by silently without provoking the spirit. Considering the noise levels in our cities I think the spirit should be brought to urban areas of the subcontinent. Come visit this magical land where Gods, spirits and Goddesses still roam and man lives in harmony with nature.
Rolwaling valley, Tsho Rolpa lake, Rolwaling glacier, the holy shrine of Kalinchok Bhagawati suggested Itineraries 3 day trip: Kathmandu-Singati-Bigu-DolangsaBarabhise-Kathamndu. Start early from Singati as it is a long walk to Bigu 5 day trip: Kathmandu-Singati-Loting-BiguDolangsa-Barabhise 7 day trip: Kathmandu-Barabhise-KarthaliDolangsa-Bigu-Loting-Laduk-SingatiKathamndu 11 day trip: Kathmandu-Barabhise-KarthaliDolangsa-Bigu-Loting-Laduk-OrangGongarkhola-Simigaun-Jagat-SingatiKathmandu
Eco Himal (www.ecohimal.org) is a nongovernmental organization based in Salzburg, Austria with a sister organization in Kathmandu. The organization works at the grass roots level with local communities for sustainable improvement of living conditions in the Himalayan region. Their projects are funded by Austrian and Swiss Development Cooperation and by private sponsors and donors. The organization is active in Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet. The organization is active in health, rural development and cultural cooperation. In Nepal the different projects undertaken by Eco Himal are development of villages in Arun valley, Eastern Nepal, health programs in two village development committees in Khotang and Solu Khumbu districts, restoration of Keshar Mahal, the garden of dreams in Kathmandu, financing a small hydroelectric power plant in Thame, Khumbu region and the Rolwaling Eco tourism project. Eco Himal supports children of Nepal in an educational project. The organization brings out a newsletter which can be downloaded from their site and a Himalaya 2011 calendar which can be purchased and costs 25 euros.
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personalityreview
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An h UR WITH
Bikrum Pande Words Utsav Shakya Photos Rocky Prajapati SEPTEMBER 2010
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A Paryatankaar in Nepali Tourism
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Bikrum Pande is a travel and tourism industry professional who does not like to be called one. Utsav Shakya talks to the modest yet dynamic CEO of Himalaya Expeditions about putting Nepal on the global tourism map and about breaking away from family tradition. What are Himalaya Expeditions’ main travel and tourism products? Himalaya Expeditions has four major products right now. Firstly, the Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon that takes place on May 29 each year, which has garnered a tremendous response from the international tourism sector. It was started in 2003 and is a fun run – we are not pitting one country against another here. The second product we have is the Annapurna Maurice Herzog Harka Bahadur Gurung Marathon that takes place at the Annapurna Base Camp. I did not choose Annapurna Base Camp just for its accessibility. Many people might not know this but Annapurna is actually the first mountain of all the Himalayan ranges to have been measured. This was in 1950, three years before Everest was first scaled. This lends the mountain its bit of interesting history and makes the event more exciting. These two are our international products that call upon the world to take part. Our third product is the Gautam Buddha Circuit tour. This tour touches both India and Nepal and traces the life of the Buddha from his birth in Lumbini to his death in Kushinagar. In this way, it is designed to be sort of a Buddhist Mecca pilgrimage trip. The tour will start from November this year. The fourth product which is still in the pipeline for now and will be launched in 2012 is the World’s Highest Trans Himalayan Mountain Bike Race. This will comprise of a race from Kathmandu, to Lhasa and go up to the Everest Base Camp from the Northern side. So this product touches both Nepal and China.
Tell us a little about Himalaya Expeditions. The company was established in 1988 and so that makes it more than 20 years old. At first, we started out focusing on trekking because back then tourism was synonymous to just that. Gradually we branched out to adventure tourism and now have a list of services and products to cater to every kind of tourist who wants to enjoy all that Nepal has to offer. Our major clientele is from the U.K. but we also readily cater to local clients. With the
Everest and Annapurna Marathons, we are trying to establish not the company but the name of the country on the world map as an exciting tourist destination. And that is the kind of company that Himalaya Expeditions is.
Nepal has a lot of potential as a tourist destination. What do you think is stopping Nepal from achieving its full potential? That’s easy; it is the political disturbance in the country that is stopping us from achieving our true potential as a great tourist destination. They might have their own problems amongst themselves but that doesn’t mean they can hold a country’s future in limbo like this. When a country is constantly in the news for political disturbances and shootouts and bombings, how can one expect tourists to go there? This is the case with Nepal even though the peace situation is considerably better, although mostly in urban areas. We are still launching our products and advertising them globally to help the situation and raise awareness that Nepal is no more a war zone and that there are a lot of exciting things to do here. We are doing our part for our country by creating exciting events to send out a message to the world that Nepal is always a hot and happening place, besides certain disturbances and public demonstrations. However, this is something that the government should do but we are doing it for them instead.
With the Everest and Annapurna Marathons, we are trying to establish not the company but the name of the country on the world map as an exciting tourist destination.
What got you into the tourism industry? Tell us about your journey. My family actually has an army background. I did not hate the idea of joining the army but just like a cobbler’s son might not necessarily want to become a cobbler too, I wanted to break away from tradition and do something else. I had that ambition but I didn’t know what I wanted to do. When I was around 18, I met a Nepali entrepreneur who I somehow impressed and he was the one who got me into tourism. I even worked part time at Yeti Travels’ adventure division back in the day.
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I am no star or celebrity in my profession. Just like a Shilpakaar or a Tamrakaar with their various skills, I prefer to call myself a Paryatankaar who
Back then, tourism was practically non-existent and the only tourists we saw were the hippies who were lured in by the cheap drugs. Slowly as the country opened up to the world, I got even more involved in it and here I am today after more than 22 years with a job that is also my hobby. That is why I do it really, the tourism campaigns and the products – not just to earn money but because it gives me great satisfaction. I love my job.
works in tourism.
My identity is as someone who is constantly learning and striving further. I am no star or celebrity in my profession. Just like a Shilpakaar or a Tamrakaar with their various skills, I prefer
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to call myself a Paryatankaar who works in tourism.
What is Himalaya Expeditions’ core mission then? Himalaya Expeditions’ core mission is certainly not routine tourism. It is to put Nepal on the world tourism map not just as a beautiful, scenic place but also as an exciting tourist destination. We aspire to make Nepal a household name when it comes to tourism and travel. People should talk about Nepal as they sit in bars, restaurants and dinner tables. People should say, “Hey buddy, let’s go to Nepal this time. There’s always something exciting happening there!”
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hotels&casinos
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The Everest Hotel L u x u r y
R e d e f i n e d
Text by Priyesha Pradhananga
T
he lofty hotel in bustling New Baneshwor that boasts a 5 star status, The Everest Hotel is as majestic and grand as its huge, snowcapped namesake. First opened for business in 1981 as part of the Sheraton chain of hotels, the hotel has been providing first class service for years. Even though its exterior seems formidable and austere, inside, the hotel evokes grandeur and elegance. The top choice of royalty, dignitaries and celebrities native or international, The Everest Hotel
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is the epitome of class and regality. The hotel incorporates international standards and traditional Nepali hospitality to make guests feel welcome and well cared for. Enter The Everest Hotel and it becomes instantly apparent that the hotel leaves no stone unturned to maintain its image of excellence and elegance. Curios shops which sell Nepali handcrafts and goods line the corridor into the lobby. The wooden beamed high ceiling and spacious hall of
the enormous lobby is dotted with statues and traditional Nepali art pieces. Light classical music lingers in the air. Potted plants and vases brimming with flowers give splashes of color to the toned down brown and cream dĂŠcor. The polite and cheerfully helpful staff at the reception asks you to make yourselves comfortable in the lobby where comfy sofas and armchairs and little quaint coffee tables give every appearance of a well endowed and cozy living room of the affluent.
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Additionally, the rooms are designed to meet the needs of the guests; Deluxe rooms can come with twin beds, and both Deluxe and superior rooms offer interconnecting rooms for families. Right across the lobby is The Café, only one of the three fine restaurants the hotel has to offer. The Café serves continental dishes and is the preferred restaurant for guests to have breakfast and dinner. Pretty and quaint, the café has a stained glass ceiling and a chocolate and cream color theme that exudes a warm and comfortable atmosphere. At the front of the café is a well stocked wine bar, perfect for an enjoyable evening. The Everest Hotel also has the Far Pavilion, an Indian themed restaurant which serves typical Indian dishes, may it be an Indian Thali or naan roti. The restaurant is bright and
cheery with big windows, and a fountain altar in the middle. With a capacity for 72 guests, the Far Pavilion also features a live gazal performance every day except for Tuesday after 7:30 in the evening to add to the mystical Indian mood.
arguably the most popular restaurant of Everest Hotel, leads outside to a balcony that was originally the Ropes Barbecue and View but now is part of the restaurant. From the balcony and from the big windows of the restaurant, you can see magnificent views of Kathmandu City in all its glory. And if you fancy a drink, you can head off to the Bugles and Tigers Bar. The bar imitates a British officers’ mess and is decorated with paintings depicting AngloNepal history and Khukuris on the walls. The bar is well stocked and you can have any cocktail you want, from a Screwdriver or a Manhattan to the ever popular Bloody Mary. There is a live performance every evening except on Wednesday and Sunday where the band plays both local and English numbers. The plush carpet, the comfy sofas and the hookahs by the wide windows give the bar a cosmopolitan yet laidback feel. A description of the hotel would be incomplete without mentioning its accommodations. The Everest Hotel has
a total of 160 rooms. There are six Suites, 10 Club rooms, 60 Deluxe rooms and 84 Superiors. Each of the rooms is furnished to perfection and gives a feel of comfort. Each room has all the facilities a guest may require from a closet and TV to mini bars and coffee makers. The bathrooms are chic, and are full of luxurious amenities as well. Each room is bathed in light with huge windows that are easily the highlights of the hotel. The Superior rooms, which are currently being renovated in anticipation of Nepal Tourism Year 2011, are targeted at the no frills traveler. The room houses all modern amenities and has been decorated in a traditional Nepali style. The Everest Club rooms have been designed keeping in mind high profile guests who are accustomed to a certain level of comfort and class. The interiors at the Everest Club Room are tastefully done to suit a globetrotting guest list that recognizes and appreciates quality and finesse. Additionally, the rooms are designed to meet the needs of the guests; Deluxe rooms can come with twin beds,
The Mandarin, which seats 80 people, is the hotel’s Chinese themed restaurant that serves Chinese/Tibetan cuisine and has an Oriental décor; Tibetan paintings and laughing Buddhas line the walls of the restaurant. The restaurant, which is TIMES SEPTEMBER 2010
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and both Deluxe and superior rooms offer interconnecting rooms for families. There is no shortage of things to do for guests in The Everest Hotel. If lounging in your well furnished rooms all day is not your cup of tea, you can go out to the hotel’s swimming pool for a quick swim, or get a tan on its deck chairs. The round swimming pool with its azure waters is perfect for splashing about with friends and family. Having had your swim, you can head on to the Looks Health Club and Beauty Salon for a bit of pampering and relaxation or to work up a good sweat. The outfit features massaging facilities for men and women, saunas, and the salon does it all; haircuts, facials, you name it. There is even a small barber shop! The gym has state of the art equipment and is the usual haunt of VIPs and dignitaries. And if you are suddenly interrupted by urgent work, a quick nip to the hotel’s Business Center will take care of it instantly. The Center is open 7 am to 10 pm and has all the facilities you’ll need for any business matters, which come in handy particularly when you are in a hurry to go back to your leisure activities. The Everest Hotel is not just a leisure hotel.
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It has excellent features for business and corporate offices, most prominently its five – yes, five – conference rooms. The Lotus Conference Room has the maximum capacity of 225 people theatre style, and is popular for cocktail dinners or residential conferences. Two of the conference rooms of the hotel are actually one single large – the Grand Ball Room - partitioned into two sections. The partition can be removed for functions with enormous guest lists. The enormous doors of each section of the Ball Room leads into a large spacious room that is perfect for conferences, workshops, educational fairs, parties, wedding receptions or even stage concerts and fashion shows. The Ball Room has all the facilities required for business meetings, from Wi-Fi internet to videoconferences and both sections are soundproof. The remaining conference rooms are also the most recently made – the Namche and the
The Everest Hotel, it’s all about attention to details that things feel just right. Offering the best in luxury, it is the perfect place to begin a discovery of Nepal. Lhotse Conference Rooms. The Namche conference room, which was previously the Bubbles Bar, seats 25 people and is apt for small business meetings in its U shaped conference table. The Lhotse is the smallest conference room which can accommodate 10-15 people for small residential conferences. And there you have it; The Everest Hotel is a world on its own. It provides the best of everything to its guests; excellent rooms and business or leisure facilities, excellent customer service, and is the model of hospitality. Famous writer Chetan Bhagat and pop singer Ginger Spice who stayed here when they visited Nepal – to name some celebrities and high profile people who have enjoyed themselves at The Everest Hotel - might testify to that! The Everest Hotel goes a step further to give the best possible service; at The Everest Hotel, it’s all about attention to details. Offering the best in luxury, it is the perfect place to begin a discovery of Nepal.
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Rec
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Nepali
CHinese/ Japanese
samaya baji
italian/ continental
The Ghangri Café Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5528703
Café De Patan Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 4228833 D’ Square Café Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 5545056
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Crumbed Prawn
Bhoe Chhen Newari Restaurant & Bar Basantarpur Tel: 2331028
Baithak BhabarMahal Revisited Tel: 4267346
Beijing Roast Duck Restaurant Jawalakhel, Patan Tel: 5547453
Dhokaima Café Patan Dhoka Tel: 5522113
Café Du Temple Patan Dhoka Square Tel: 5527127
Vishram Restaurant Basantapur Tel.2012127
layeku Restaurant Bhaktaour Tel. 4781104
Courtyard Restaurant & bar Kamaladi Tel: 4253056
Rice and Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel: 4251678
PIZZA
Mandarin Palace Babar Mahal Revisited Tel: 4212675
Road House Café Thamel Tel: 4426168, 5521755
Chopstix Kumaripati, Patan Tel: 5551118
Dan Ran Japanese Restaurant Pulchowk Tel: 5521027
Pizza Xpress Lazimpat Tel: 2161212
Hadock Dining & Bar Pulchowk Tel: 554631
TIAN rui Chinese Thapathali Tel.: 4243078
Fire and Ice Pizzeria Thamel Tel: 4250210
Bourbon Room Narayhitimarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4441703 green Olive Restaurant & sisha bar Chhetrapati, Ktm. Tel. : 4212730 La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel. : 4700612 Rum Doodle Thamel Tel.: 4701107
NEPALI CHULO An authentic Nepali cuisine restaurant
Chulo is a Nepali word meaning a wood burning stove. Adopting the name of a traditional Nepali kitchen accessory, Nepali Chulo – the restaurant definitely serves some amazing traditional, Nepali delicacies. Nepali Chulo is situated behind the Gang Jong Hotel in Lazimpat in a beautiful Rana mansion. The beautifully restored building reveals our rich architectural heritage and the family environment fits the cuisine
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perfectly. The theme of the restaurant’s interiors is that of a typical Nepali house and portrays Nepal’s rich culture and hospitality. There are a number of seating arrangements that you can choose from here. The floor seating in the restaurant has attractive thangka paintings adorning the walls. The low tables are of a comfortable height and the soft cushions are a necessity after you feast like royalty. The wooden ceiling and attractive traditional lights hanging from the ceiling enhance the beauty of the space. The neatly laid brass crockery atop the trimly arranged table post adds a nice touch. The walls of the restaurant also carry some traditional masks, used during festivals which represent mythological characters. A showcase of various traditional utensils enhances the charm of the place.
The dishes prepared in the chulo do justice to the popularity of the place. As the name suggests, the restaurant serves every variety of food prepared in a traditional Nepali kitchen. The Thakali food set, named after the people of the Thak region is the main course and is the most popular meal here. The meal consists of rice or dhido (millet), a lot of greens, lentil soup, fried potatoes, spicy chicken curry with thick gravy, milk curd and salad. Other food items served here are Newari cuisines such as Chatamari, Woh, Samay Baji and aailah – a strong, home-made Newar liquor. To add to the experience, all the food is served by traditionally dressed staff. A live cultural performance is another major attraction at Nepali Chulo. The restaurant has its own team which performs here every day and are quiet adept in portraying traditional Nepali song and dance. Nepali Chulo is truly an authentic Nepali restaurant and a perfect place to experience Nepal through its food.
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MULTI
star restaurants VESPER CAFE Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5548179
chicken biryani
Dhaba Restautant & Bar Thapathali Tel; 4100510 Tehzeeb Restaurant Durbarmarg Tel: 4233037 Bawarchi The restrobar Lazimpat Tel. 2150050
Cappuccino
Delicatessen Centre Café Durbar Marg Tel: 4221331 Imago Del Café Gallery Nag Pokhari Tel: 442464
sizzler
Lobsters’ Sherpa Mall, Durbar Marg Tel: 4231323, 4231437 Bhumi Restro Lounge Lazimpat Tel: 4412193
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Jatra Thamel Tel: 4700043 lakhey restaurant and bar Durbarmarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4256606 MOODS Studio lounge Bluebird Mall, Tripureshwor Tel. : 4215740
Ezer Book Café Sanepa Tel: 5546578
The Factory Restaurant & Bar Thamel Tel: 4701185, 4701187
chapter 9 Jhamsikhel, lalitpur Tel.: 5525979
Himalayan Java Thamel Tel: 4253056
Bronco billy Harihar bhawan Tel. 5526212
BUZZ Baluwatar, Ktm. Tel.: 4429903
Ghar-e-kabab durbarmarg Tel.: 4221711
The Bakery Café Kathmandu Tel: 4464438
Café Cheeno Patan Tel. 012210423
NEW YORK CAFE Thapathali, Ktm. Tel.: 4101532
Red Dingo Jawalakhel, lalitpur Tel.: 01-6914930
Soaltee Crowne Plaza Soaltee Mode, Ktm. Tel. 4273999 Kakori Speciality: Indian Alfresco Speciality: Italian Garden Terrace Speciality: Café Rodi Bar Speciality: Bar China Garden Speciality: Chinese Cuisine
Radission Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4411818 The Olive Garden Speciality: Italian The Corner Bar Speciality: Bar TFC Speciality: Continental
Annapurna del’ hotel Durbarmarg, Ktm Tel. 4221711 The Coffee Shop speciality. Café Ghar-E- Kabab speciality. Indian Cuisine Arniko Room speciality. Chinese Cuisine
Hyatt Regency Boudha,Ktm Tel. 4491234 Rox Restaurant Speciality: Multi The Café Speciality: Café
Shangri-la Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4412999 Sambala Garden Speciality: Café Lost Horizon Bar Speciality: Bar
CAFE SOMA Coffee and Books
Sip on some amazing coffee as you skim through a variety of books on offer. What can be as much fun on a lazy Monsoon afternoon? Sounds like fun? Head on over to Café Soma. Just the place for who love to lose themselves in books and love how a great cup of coffee can turn one’s day around. Located in the budding Jhamshikhel area exactly opposite Epic, the popular mountain bike shop, Soma is conveniently isolated from the lane of restaurants behind St. Mary’s School, for now. The café delightfully welcomes coffee lovers to taste the rich variety it offers. Besides the coffee, Cafe Soma also offers you a great selection of fresh gourmet sandwiches, cakes, and light bites. from as you grab a bite to eat. The mood at Café Soma is casual and laidback. The black and white prints on the walls command some attention in its simple settings. Smart couches are located at both ends, perfect to lounge on with a cuppa. The chalkboard substituting a regular menu makes for an interesting element of décor. Soma also has a comfortable outdoor seating area, perfect to enjoy the rain SEPTEMBER 2010
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The ingredients used in the dishes on its menu are products from a certified organic farm, making the whole experience even more wholesome. The speciality of the café however is a well-stocked bookstore in one corner of the café. The selection is from United Books and adds that extra something to the café.
Enjoy the affable ambience of Café Soma while you browse through the excellent book collection and sit down to treat yourself with fine Nepali coffee and Free Wi-Fi. Café Soma is truly “a European deli with a Nepali twist”. All the coffee at Café Soma will be produced at its own coffee plantation in Lamjung of the same name, SOMA.
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n i a t n u o M ing k i B 62
ADVENTUREINTRO
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wo t n o Life
B
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History of Mountain Biking Mountain Biking started during the 1970s in California, USA. Mount Tamalpais, better known as Mt. Tam, is widely considered as where it all started. The often-hailed founding fathers of mountain biking such as Joe Breeze, Gary Fisher, Charlie Cunningham, Keith Bontrager and Tom Ritchey converted cruisers and balloon-tire bicycles into humanpowered machines that are capable of passing through all kinds of road conditions. The first breeds of mountain bikers were purely downhillers. They would ferry their bikes up a mountain with a truck and race downhill. These bikes used coaster brakes in order to slow down from the descent. However, these old-styled brakes would heat up during descents in which they would have to be repacked with grease before going through another descent. This breaking mechanism was later replaced with cantilever brakes that were a lot lighter and much stronger. Simultaneously, riders felt that they had to bike up the hills or mountains in order to appreciate riding the descent, thus the birth of multi-speed bikes with shifters and gears to aid riders ride up the hills and mountains. During the early 1990s, champions such as John Tomac and Ned Overend dominated the mountain biking scene. In 1996, the first mountain biking event was held at the Atlanta Olympics and was won by Bart Jan Brentjens from the Netherlands. From 1995, the first Extreme Games have been held in various cities around the United States. 1997 saw the Winter X-Games concept being conceived. Of course, a mountain biking event was a part of it.
Epic Mountain Bike Adventure At the Epic Mountain Bike Adventure store in Jhamshikel, which is really more of a mountain bike enthusiasts’ clubhouse, Managing Director Rupesh Man Shrestha talks of how people reacted to the prices of the bikes when they came into the newly opened store back in 2003. “Some of them would shout at me and accuse me of trying to rip them off. They couldn’t understand how a cycle could cost upwards of five-six thousand,” says Shrestha. Aimed at the local market, Shrestha says his mission is to see bikes in all homes in
Kathmandu. “Nepali people suffer from high blood sugar levels and heart diseases. Cycling is a great cardio exercise and helps bring down sugar levels and reduces pressure levels.” Epic presently has many packages that cater to every kind of bike enthusiast; from the excited newbie to the pros. On Saturdays, Epic runs a free bike ride at seven in the morning. The ride lasts for half a day and trails are within Kathmandu Valley. Cycles are available on hire from the store at NRs. 600/day TIMES SEPTEMBER 2010
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adventureintro
An interesting ride is the Kathmandu Valley rim ride (seven days) which takes the rider through all the hills surrounding the valley, starting from Kakani and ending in Nagarkot.
www.eticketnepal.com if you don’t have one. On Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, Epic organizes two hour, free rides at six in the morning aimed at working professionals who might have to rush back to work afterwards. Sundays are dedicated to students, young adults who want to take up mountain biking or learn more about it. For a nominal fee, Shrestha and his group teaches the students about bike maintenance and important basics like how to ride safe in traffic. Besides this, Epic also offers a list of exciting package bike rides. The Lhasa to Kathmandu ride in March-April and September-October has seen an amazing response. The Annapurna Circuit (Besi Sahar to Beni) ride lasts 14 days and offers more than just biking with scenic views of Nepal’s Himalayas and a cultural experience too as one rides through the hills. The Pokhara to Kathmandu ride lasts ten days. An interesting ride is the Kathmandu Valley rim
ride (seven days) which takes the rider through all the hills surrounding the valley, starting from Kakani and ending in Nagarkot. All of these rides require a certain level of fitness and experience with biking. The Lupra Valley ride however caters to more advanced riders and involves biking in the Muktinath area. So get out there, ditch your earth warming, fuel-guzzling machine at home this weekend and hit the slopes with a mountain bike instead. How to get started and where? Shrestha recommends going up to Godavari for its right length and right slope for beginners. The trip should take no longer than an hour. Before you go though, it is advised that you rack up at least 200 hours of peddling time on the streets to familiarize yourself with your bike, to develop muscle and for good spinning. Happy mountain biking!
Why go Mountain Biking? Mountain Biking has grown into more than just a pastime. It is now a sport of its own. In this section, take a closer look at some reasons why more and more people are getting engrossed with it: • •
Mountain Biking is a means of staying fit. It is about getting a great and fun aerobic workout that will get you to places.
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•
It is about getting out of the urban jungle and into the wilderness and mountains and having fun.
•
It is about being one with nature.
•
It is usually a few hours away from the reality of everyday life. It is freedom from a 10 to 5 work schedule, deadlines, bills, and pollution.
•
As for most weekend warriors, mountain biking is a ticket to relaxation, time to
recharge their biological batteries. •
Seeing the world from a bike gives you a different perspective in life.
•
Mountain Biking opens your eyes to the beauty of nature.
•
It offers a lot of beautiful destinations around the world, from North America to South Africa, Europe to Asia to Australia.
mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to
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marketwatch
bike review Mountain biking is an amazing way to see Nepalese rural lifestyles on your own and explore hidden trails. Nepal has a diverse terrain and stands as the world’s number one adventure playground for mountain bikers. The tropical terai plains, subtropical valleys of the middle mountains to the challenging Himalaya region, make cycling fun and adventurous. With our cycling special issue, Travel Times presents a few of the best bike models available in the market.
Rs
.2
META 5.5 CARBON
,95
Specifications:
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0
FRAME : SHOCK : FORK : HEADSET : STEM : BARS : SEARPOST :
NEW Meta 55 FULL CARBON FOX FLOAT RP3 FOX 32 TALAS RLC FIT 15 QR Tange Integrated. Campy standard 1”1/8 Race Face Deus XC oversize Custom EASTON MONKEY CNT CARBON 685mm EASTON EC 90 CNT
TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
SUPREME DH 2011
Rs
Specifications: FRAME SHOCK FORK HEADSET STEM BARS SEARPOST
.3
: New Supreme DH : FOX DHXRC4 : FOX 40 FIT RC2 : FSA ORBIT XL2 : SUNLINE direct mount : SUNLINE V1 LOW RISER : THOMSON ELITE
,25
,00
0
TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
Rs
.4
5,0
00
COMMENCAL PRIMIER V-BRAKE 2011 Specifications: Frame : New Premier VB 6061T6 Fork : Suntour XCT V2 80mm on XS/100mm on others Headset : Neco 1”1/8 ball retainer Stem : Premier Oversize Bars : Premier 1” Oversize 6061 Seat post : New Premier no offset TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
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Rs
.6
5,0
00
COMMENCAL PRIMIER DISC BRAKE 2011
Specification: Frame : New Premier Disc 6061T6 Fork : Suntour XCR LO 80mm on XS/100mm on S,M/120mm on L, XL Headset : Neco 1”1/8 ball retainer Stem : Premier Oversize Bars : Premier 1” Oversize 6061 Seatpost : New Premier no offset
META 6 2011
Rs
.2
Specifications:
Frame : Shock : Fork : Headset : Stem : Bars : Seatpost :
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Meta 6 updated Fox Float RP2 XV 200×57 Rockshox Lyric R SA 160mm Tange LAV 85 1”1/8 sealed bearings Race Face Evolve AM oversize 1.5” 6061 DB oversize Crank brothers Joplin 4R
,50
,00
0
TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
ABSOLUTE
Rs
.7
Specifications:
0,0
00
Frame
: New CrMo 4130
Fork
: Marzo DJ2 w/Rebound 80mm 20mm axle
Stem
: Gravity GAP OS oversize
Bars
: 2” oversize white
Seatpost : Alienation Billy Club Pivotal TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
RAMONES
Rs
.1
Specifications:
Frame Fork
: New Ramones LT hardtail frame : Rock Shox Recon 327 U-Turn 140mm 20mm Maxle Headset : Tange Fatty MX2 Stem : Race Face Evolve AM Bars : 2” 6061DB oversize Seatpost : Race Face Evolve
,40
,00
0
TWO YEARS WARRANTY ON FRAME
Available at:
epic mountain bike adventure, Jhamshikhel, Lalitpur, Tel. : 5555021 URL: www.epicmountainbike.com
Dawn Till Dusk Thamel, KTM Tel.: 4700286
Kathmandu Bike Station Thamel, KTM Tel.: 4444250
Himalayan Mountain Bike Thamel, KTM Tel.: 4212860
Nepal Mountain Bike Path Finder Cycling Thamel, KTM Thamel, KTM Tel.: 4701701 Tel.: 4700468
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Details provided by: EPIC mountain bike adventure, jhamshikhel, lalitpur
Headset : integrated Campy standard
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globaltreasure
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Statue of Christ the Redeemer Words Sradda Thapa
We are all well versed in the seven ancient wonders of the world, but are we aware of the seven new wonders of the world? Elected by over one hundred million votes cast to represent global heritage throughout history, the list was announced on, fittingly enough, 07.07.07. Global Treasure presents the “Statue of Christ the Redeemer” or in Portugese, “Cristo Redentor” located on the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Brazil, known for football, carnivals and home to some of the world’s most beautiful people, now has one more plaque to adorn its mantel – the statue of Christ the Redeemer. The 32-meters tall statue weighs a staggering 700 tons. The largest art déco sculpture in the world, it stands atop the peak of the 710-meter high Corcovado Mountain, located in the Tijuca Forest National Park. A site that overlooks the capital city of Brazil, Rio de Janeiro, it is one place to not miss when visiting Brazil. The history of the Statue of the Christ the Redeemer dates back to the XVIth century when the Portuguese named this mountain Pináculo da Tentação – The Pinnacle (peak) of Temptation alluding to the Biblical Mountain where
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the Devil failed to tempt Christ. Some hundred years later the mountain was renamed Corcovado – for the shape resembled a hump or hunchback. In 1829 Father Pedro Maria Boss, arrived in Rio and was captivated by the beauty of the Corcovado. The father recommended a construction of a religious monument. And, in 1921 the recommendation materialized into the idea of a great statue of Christ that could be viewed from the city that the mountain looked upon. The statue of Christ with his arms outstretched was chosen from several other designs; including the representation of the Christian cross, a statue of Jesus with a globe in his hands, and a pedestal symbolizing the world. In 1922, the project became official and a national fundraising drive was organized. Designed by Brazilian Heitor da Silva Costa and created by French sculptor Paul-Maximilien Landowski, it was built out of reinforced concrete rather than steel because it was considered a more durable material for the cross-shaped nature of the statue. The outer layers of the statue were constructed from a mosaic of soapstone due to its malleability and its ability to resist extreme weather.
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Busiest during the Easter and Christmas season for obvious reasons, it is highly recommend you make the trek in the late afternoon so as to devour the splendor of the setting sun. TIMES SEPTEMBER 2010
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Common & useful phrases How are you? - Como está? What's your name? - Como te chamas?
I don't speak Portuguese - Eu não falo Português
I'm English - Sou Inglês (male)/Sou Inglesa (female) Where is....? - Onde é...? (Place) ..................Onde está...? (person/object) I don't know - Não sei How much does it cost? - Quanto custa?
The statue was finally erected on October 12, 1931. In a county where over 70% of the population consider themselves Roman Catholic, the largest statue of Jesus Christ was applauded by all. A symbol of faith to Christians worldwide, the statue has also come to represent the warmth of Rio and of the Brazilians. Today In 2000, the statue received new lighting and in 2002 panoramic elevators and escalators were added. For those who would otherwise be left panting, it is no longer necessary to climb up the 220 steps to the foot of the statue. The statue can be accessed by the 2.4meter Corcovado Rack railway – the same railway used to haul the large pieces of the statue to the tip of the mountain during construction. And, just SEPTEMBER 2010
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like getting dressed is half the fun, the train ride is meant to be alluring in itself. Busiest during the Easter and Christmas season for obvious reasons, it is highly recommend you make the trek in the late afternoon so as to devour the splendor of the setting sun. Now is a good time as any, if not better, for just in June 2010 the four-month long renovation of the statue that towers over Rio de Janeiro was unveiled. Some 250,000 pilgrims and just about all of the 1,447,000 inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro scrambled up the Corcovado Mountain to view the unveiling. The $4 million renovation cost was financed by donations, not unlike its construction. This is a statue built and rebuilt by the people.
Other Attractions Once at the foot of the famous statue, it is difficult to have escaped the Tijuca National Forest – one would have had to travel through that on the Corcovado train and through the forest, after all. Of the 150 trails and 130 historic points, Tijuca National Park is not home to just the statue of the Christ the Redeemer, but also a Chinese viewpoint, a botanical garden, the Tijuca forest and the Gávea Rock.
OPENING HOURS * from 8:30 a.m to 19:00 p.m, leaving every half hour. Monday to Sunday. Subject to change without notice. LENGTH OF TRIP about 20 minutes. THE TICKET PRICE R$ 36,00 - Round trip Children under 5 years at no charge on lap CREDIT CARDS American Express, MasterCard, Visa, Visa electron
Tijuca National Park The forest is located in the heart of the city and just a few minutes away from most neighborhoods surrounding Rio. It is considered the largest urban forest replanted by man in the world. Concerned that the erosion and deforestations caused by the sugar and coffee plantations combined with a dramatic decrease in rainfall in the area would severely reduce drinking water available to his subjects, the then King Don Pedro began
SHOPPING ONLINE www.ticketronics.net CAPACITY 360 PASSENGERS PER HOUR SPEED CLIMB 15 km / h SPEED OF DESCENT 12 km / h www.corcovado.com.br
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Also, in Rio
Copacabana Beach the reforestation of the area. Splattered across 46 square miles of land once stripped bare by coffee and sugar plantation, it is a dramatic success story of reforestation. Today, the forest is home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna unique to the Atlantic forest. It is a forest not to miss; it is all that remains of the Atlantic rain forest that once surrounded the city. The tropical jungle hosts trees from all over the world, creeks and waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks. Complete with hiking trails and hang-gliding opportunities to take in the nearby city, there are also parks for picnics. All in all a beautiful place to spend a day refreshing one’s soul from the hustle and bustle of the city. Gávea Rock Once at the Tijuca National Park, it would be a shame to exclude a trip to Pedra da Gávea - literally meaning Rock of the Topsail. And, for obvious reasons, Pedra da Gávea is a rock and it is composed of granite and gneiss (pronounced neice), a metamorphic rock. The rock rises 842 meters above sea level and it has been suggested that its position and size has caused it to erode heavily and that it is this erosion that has created the im-
pression of a human face on the vertical face of the rock. An inscription on the rock suggests otherwise, as it allegedly refers to the ruler of Phonenicia named Badzir. Scholars, on the other hand, believe the image was not a result of erosion, but a portrait of Badzir carved onto its face. Though the authenticity of the carving is dubious and its formation still contested, the rock itself continues to be a sight to behold. Cascatinha de Taunay Cascatinha is one of thirty magnificent waterfalls in the Tijuca Forest National Park. At a towering 115 feet, it is a delightful alternative to attempting to scale a hill allowing you to relax a bit.
Waterfalls in the Tijuca forests are also an excellent way to to get away from the otherwise sweltering heat of the area. And, adventurists can cascade (a sub-category of canyoning) the waterfall – a nonintrusive means of engaging with nature directly.
One of the world’s most popular beaches, Copacabana Beach is a vibrant four kilometer strip of golden sand, famous for its free, but livid concerts, wild parties and beautiful people. A busy beach where surfing, swimming and diving compete against volleyball, barefoot soccer and thousands of bodies getting a tan, it is a beach visited by people from all social classes. While thousands flock to the beach to celebrate the New Year by singing with the locals and dancing bare feet, it is as lively throughout the year. Perhaps made famous by the opening of the Copacabana Palace Hotel in 1920, the hotel has housed legendary icons such as Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Staying here is a bit heavy on your pocket, but a visit is recommended nonetheless.
Maracana It is impossible to disentangle Brazil from football. Maracana, the famous football stadium in Rio was built in 1950 for the fourth World Cup. Though officially known as Estadio Municpal, the locals continued to call it ‘Maracana’ which takes its name from the small river that flows by the facility. Today the playground of some of Brazil’s best and the world’s most beloved is known as Maracana by all. Even today Brazilians recount the devastating 1950 World Cup final that the Brazilian team lost to the Uruguayans in the Maracana. It is said that the 199,854 fans that filled the stadium and spilled onto the rooftops and streets held their breath when Uruguay scored the winning goal seconds before the referee blew the final whistle. It seems the Uruguayans have a knack for ensuring the world holds their breath, just as they did for the Ghanaians this year. Brazil may have had to give up the cup in 1950 and exit the game this year, but the five stars stitched on the jerseys indicate the five cups they have taken home. Perhaps the fans may have been saddened to a pin drop silence again, but the Brazilians love their football and the world loves Brazil. The Statue of Christ the Redeemer sure is superb icing on the cake. Acknowledgement: www.new7wonders.com, www.nytimes.com, www.destination360.com, www.copacabana.info, www.virtualtourist.com, www.tripwolf.com, www.rio-de-janeiro.info
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PHOTOLOGUE
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Naagdaha a PHOTOGRAPHic journey to
Photos Rocky Prajapati
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Words Nisha Shakya
Hidden in the south-east corner of the valley, Naagdaha, meaning a pond of serpents is a gem of wetland. Naags (serpent Gods) have always been worshipped by the people since ancient times. The history of Naagdaha stands to be as old as the creation of the Kathmandu valley. When the water was drained out of Kathmandu, the serpents living in the lake prayed to the Bodhisatva to spare their lives. Hence Naagdaha was created to provide home for the serpents.
Naagdaha is believed to be an abode of serpents and holds religious and culture significance to the Nepalese of diverse religious background and ethnic groups. The inhabitants of the surrounding village consider the serpent to protect them and as their guardian deity.
The main temple here has an idol of the Naag. Many devotees visit the temple every year to pay their respects to the serpent god.
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During the summer time the local children swim in the pond to beat the scorching heat.
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Naagdaha is rich in biodiversity. The diverse flora and fauna is the specialty of this place.
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The pond is surrounded all sides by lush greenery and villages.
Boating has become one of the major attractions of the place.
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The neighboring area of Naagdaha has open fields used for agriculture. Rice is obviously the main crop here.
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Santaneswor Mahadev, situated east to the pond is an important religious site. The view is of the valley settlemen from here.
Agriculture is the traditional occupation of the people living in Naagdaha. The locals still depend on agriculture for their livelihood.
Getting there Naagdaha is 10 kms away from Kathmandu. It lies about 4 kms south of Satdobato. Turn right at Dhapakhel and along the route past TEWA, 5 minutes drive will reach you to Naagdaha Chowk. Follow the dirt road to a small crossroads and then a rough trial on right, you will reach Naagdaha. Since no direct local vehicles are available, you can hire a taxi or use private transport.
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c ffee ff
H i m a l a y a n Words Prasanna Pandey | Photos Suresh Maharjan
Locally Grown and Among the Finest in the World
T
he happenstance: Boy meets girl. Girl meets boy. Boy feels awkward and wonders what to say. The few words he manages to mumble are incoherent. Boy clears his throat. Girl beats him to comprehension. “Do you want to go out for coffee sometime?” This happenstance is so cliché that it often attempts to belie the role of coffee as a social lubricant. As far as hot beverages go, tea and coffee have been sought through centuries to revitalize the mood, served in courtesy or just plainly craved for their peculiar effects. Caffeine the main constituent of such a drink has several beneficial effects such as temporarily banishing drowsiness, fatigue and restoring alertness. Of late, coffee has been able to make its way into the palettes of Nepali people who are traditionally tea drinkers. Nepal produces excellent coffee and it has not been long since green seedlings of Coffea Arabica were discovered to fare well in the high altitude, temperate climate of Nepal. These saplings were introduced in 1938
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in Gulmi, Western Nepal, from Burma. There it remained as an ornamental plant till the 1970’s when the government started encouraging local farmers to cultivate it commercially. It was designated as a cash crop in the year 1976. 33 districts are presently engaged in its production with over eighty percent being produced in Gulmi, Palpa, Argakhanchi, Lalitpur, Tanahu, Lamjung, Kaski, Gorkha, Syangja, Parbat, and Myagdi. Other mid-hill districts such as Sindhupalchowk, Nuwakot, Kaski, Baglung and Kavre are also successfully growing and producing coffee beans and have been increasing their output year after year. Coffee is generally grown in small family farms or co-operatives under the shade in hills facing north where altitudes range from 800 to 3000 ft above sea level. Most of the coffee is grown between altitudes of 800 to 1600 ft. but coffee that is grown in higher altitudes is believed to have a richer flavor.
quired for production of high quality coffee – climate, temperature, topology, soil, rainfall, relative humidity and altitude. The Arabica bush grows well in mild temperatures with at least about 60 inches of rainfall per year. They tend to prefer steeper terrain but can’t tolerate frost. Coffee is regarded as a high value cash crop and this fact has largely contributed to widespread adoption of its cultivation. At present, the area of coffee plantation has reached 1400 hectares producing 460 metric tons of dry cherry. According to Nepal Tea and Coffee Development Board, the quantity of coffee beans exported in 2005/06 was 91500 kilograms. Nepal exports the coffee beans mostly to Japan, Korea, USA, Germany, the Netherlands, Canada and other countries. The demand in the international market for Nepali organic coffee has gone up significantly in the last few years.
Coffee beans are seeds of a red berry from the coffee bush. These days, Arabica coffee beans are widely grown in the mid-hills based on several key factors that are re-
The ripe cherry produced in these hilly areas are either shipped abroad directly or brought into preparation plants where they are readied for the local market. The major
market for the coffee is the Kathmandu Valley. There are several companies involved with the production, packaging and marketing of Himalayan coffee with brands such as “Himalayan Arabic Coffee” and “Morning Fresh Coffee” produced by Nepal Organic Coffee Products, “Johnny Gurkha” and “Jalpa Gold” produced by Plantec Nepal Inc., and “Himalaya Coffee” produced by Himalaya Coffee Products. Other major stakeholders working in the production, development, processing and marketing of coffee are – Central Coffee Cooperative Union Limited (CCU), National Coffee Producers Association (NCPA), Royal Everest Coffee Mills (P) Ltd., Highland Coffee, Department of Tea and Coffee Development and Na-
tional Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB). Most of these companies sell both ground coffee and roasted coffee beans that boast of being organic, shade grown, sun dried and hand sorted. It is left to the discerning buyer to evaluate these offerings but it is a well known fact that the best coffee is the one that you make yourself from scratch (including roasting of the beans).
The Process
enjoyed. They may also be incorporated into popular drinks such as cappuccino, mocha and latte.
The process of creating a quality coffee product follows some common steps. The first step is the selection of the berries. Only ripened and non-defective berries are selected by hand from the bush to ensure the quality of the product. Then they are transported to the preparation plants for
processing. The fruit is removed from the seed by one of two methods – the natural or dry process, where the cherries are dried in the sun or in dryers and the fruit is then separated from the bean by processing them through a mechanical husker. Another superior preparation method is by soaking the fruit, a process commonly known as a wet process which produces washed coffees. The green beans are then dried, sized, sorted, graded and selected - usually all by hand. The beans are then bagged and are ready for shipment to roasters around the world. The roasting of the beans is the single most important process that determines the aroma and the flavor of the finished product. Roasting temperature, duration and equipment need to be carefully manipulated in order to achieve high standards. After roasting, the coffee can
either be packaged and sent to the market or ground and then packaged. Packaged coffee costs about NRs. 500 to 800 per kilogram. The preparation of coffee is determined by individual taste – generally the roasted beans are ground and soaked in water for a few minutes and filtered through a coffee filter or a strainer to be
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What’s available? All types of coffee grown in Nepal is Arabica. However, one may also find imported Coffea Canephora, or Robusta beans in the markets around town. The imported coffee that one can get in stores is usually not made with Arabica but Robusta beans that are cheaper, have larger beans, harsher flavour and more caffeine content. The “better” brands are blended with old Arabica beans to make them taste more palatable. Coffee made from Robusta beans is widely considered to be inferior
www.eticketnepal.com in quality to coffee made from Arabica beans and for that reason Robusta beans are generally found blended with other types of beans whereas Arabica beans are found unadulterated. Arabica beans are considered to be direct descendants of the original coffee trees discovered in Ethiopia and now make up about seventy percent of the world’s supply. Various types of coffee beans are categorized by their aroma, body flavour and acidity. Arabica coffee is more aromatic than any other type of commercially significant
coffee bean. Body flavour is generally a consequence of the quality of coffee the beans and the roast. The longer one roasts a bean, the more caffeine is oxidized or burnt away from the bean hence darker the roast the lower the caffeine content. A few roasts in increasing order of their coffee content are – Turkish roast, Italian roast, French Roast, Dark Roast, Medium Roast and Light Roast. Arabica beans locally grown have more flavour than any other type of coffee bean and may range from having heavy, medium to light body.
Places to go for a caffeine fix There are many places in Kathmandu valley where you can get fine Arabic coffee beans. They are available in numerous tea and coffee shops in Thamel and New Road as well as few supermarkets in the area. These shops generally sell roasted and packaged coffee beans that may be previously ground. Unroasted coffee beans can be acquired with contact from one of the companies that are involved in the production and export of green coffee beans. A good cup of coffee can be enjoyed in many coffee shops and restaurants around town – Himalayan Java situated in Thamel has good equipment and only uses coffee grown in Nepal to serve its clients; Roadhouse Café at Thamel, Bhat Bhateni and Pulchowk serves Organic Himalayan Coffee, Espresso, Cappuccino, Café Mocha along with exceptional desserts (Tiramisu is probably the best that you can find in all of Thamel); Alchemy at Chettrapati, Thamel has very good cappuccino and aother Italian specialties; La Dolce Vita at Thamel has Himalayan Organic Coffee along with great desserts; Higher Ground Café at Jawalakhel, Patan has excellent lattes and fresh cinnamon rolls; Mike’ s Breakfast at Naxal offers unlimited refills of fresh ground drip coffee for Rs. 75. A good cup of fresh coffee can also be found at Dhokaima Café. Many restaurants and cafés here in Nepal are notorious in serving an abomination known as instant coffee such as Nescafé when someone orders a cup of coffee. If you like your coffee fresh, specifically inquire for it and move on elsewhere if it is not available. Owing to its high demand in the international market, Himalayan Coffee is a rarity outside Nepal. Arabica beans grown in high-altitude hills of Nepal are known both locally and internationally for their exceptional flavour. Due to its lack of availability outside Nepal and its exceptional flavour, Himalayan Coffee is an ideal souvenir that one can take back to be enjoyed by all. This will also help to support the local farmers and encourage them to continue producing one of the finest products in the world.
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festivalwatch
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gaijatra
FestivalofLifeandDeath Words: Prasanna Pandey | Photos: Rocky Prajapati
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ver centuries the human society has evolved into an elaborate melting pot in which every subtle flavor is colored by its culture. Culture has been able to successfully cater to everyone’s imagination by being an object of fascination and misapprehension since there is something unique about every tradition’s rituals. It is an established fact that culture serves as a thread that strings together humanity as a whole as an homage to universal principles of belief and faith. Abundant reflections on the nature of life and the afterlife are found in every tradition. Monuments such as Khufu’s Pyramind and tombs in the Taj Mahal are grim reminders of our inevitable passing. Morbid fascinations aside, death is also celebrated as a part of a broader understanding of nature - an understanding that outgrows the limitations of religion that fragments the populace. Almost each tradition has a unique way of commemorating the dead - the Mexicans celebrate Dia De Los Muertos, Christians celebrate Halloween, and the ethnic Newar Community of Nepal celebrates Gai Jatra. Gai is a Nepali word for cow and Gai Jatra is a festival of the cows - revered as embodiments of female deities. This particular festival is unique in that it is able to commemorate the memories of the dead as well as dwell on the irony and the lighter side of life. Gai Jatra falls in the Nepali month of Bhadra (August - September) and is one of the more popular festivals of Nepal. The origin of this festival boasts of an ancient time when Yamaraj, the god of death was feared and worSEPTEMBER 2010
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The traditional lakhe dance sees men don masks and dance in the streets.
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shipped. The festival originated in the medieval ages when the Kathmandu Valley was ruled by the Malla kings. The queen of King Pratap Malla grew so disconsolate at the loss of her son that nothing could cheer her up. The king announced that whoever could make her laugh would be rewarded handsomely. Soon a procession of people dressed up as cows were brought before the queen and this procession began ridiculing and attacking important people in the society by highlighting their misdeeds and social injustice. This
The Gai Jatra festival lures out the kid in people as they pour into the street and celebrate life.
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The colors of life are reflected in the mask of the lakhe.
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A local character acting the part of Lord Shiva, destroyer of the universe.
A customary dance using sticks as props performed by only specially trained artists.
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Gai Jatra sees young and old, locals and visitors come together to remember the deceased and celebrate their lives in a humorous way.
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Typical newari girls in traditonal outfit and ornaments
Gai Jatra is a unique festival that serves a dual purpose of acknowledging death as a way of life through commemoration of the deceased ones as well as to have a good time dwelling on the lighthearted side of life.
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made the queen smile and a tradition of ridicule and lampoon was established for this day. The festival is characterized by a procession of people leading cows and those elaborately decorated as representations of cows. If there’s been a recent death in a family, a person is expected to lead a cow to represent the death. If a cow is not readily available then a person from that family is dressed up like a cow to fulfill the substitution and participate in the procession. Cows being divine are believed to ease the deceased’s journey through the unknown. Once the procession is over, almost everyone joins in the age old ritual of dressing up, wearing masks, dancing and ridiculing one another about their garish looks. The convivial atmosphere is enlivened by anecdotes, colorful humor, sarcasm
and plain old mockery till late. Caricatures, comic puppet shows and open mic performances are often organized to mark the occasion. Gai Jatra is a unique festival that serves a dual purpose of acknowledging death as a way of life through commemoration of the deceased ones as well as to have a good time dwelling on the lighthearted side of life. This opportunity is saved from going down as a day of debauchery by the print media who use Gai Jatra to pass sarcasm and criticism to influential people in the society such as ineffectual politicians, celebrities and the like. Many magazines and dailies in Newari, Nepali as well as English publish them in special issues around the time. Perhaps due to this fact alone, the festival has been one of the most popular ones in Nepal.
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