october 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
NPR 150 | US$ 4 | AUS$ 6 | INR 100
TIMES AFFILIATED TO NEPAL TOURISM BOARD
yourtravelcompanion
VOL. 2 | ISSUE 9
Get Away! This holiday season, put the fun back in your vacations. See more of your world.
chAllenging the BABA
Gorkha maNAKAMANA
DASHAIN
on PEOPLE AND CULTURE
on destination spotlight
on FESTIVAL WATCH
58
66
104
tREKKING TRAIL
www.traveltimes-mag.com
10
editorial
Editorial Dear Readers, Holiday season is here; have a great Dashain and Tihar! May the lights of the season translate beautifully into your lives.
Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Managing Director / Editor aasha Ram Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager LABIN MANANDHAR Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Layout Supervisor Suman Maharjan Inhouse Writer NISHA SHAKYA Photographer Suresh Maharjan rOCKY PRAJAPATI Advisors anand rungta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Ramon Shrestha Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Dashain and Tihar are two of the biggest Hindu festivals celebrated here but they are so popular that all of us can’t help but celebrate the festivals in our own little ways. Everyone knows Dashain symbolizes the victory of good over evil and that Tihar is a celebration of life. However, the holiday season is also important in that it is really the only time Nepali people get a few days off from their daily lives to take a long overdue breather. This holiday season though, do not just sit at home and catch up on reruns of all your favorite sitcoms. Get out there and make it memorable. Go on a trek and discover what you love about Nepal. Visit some of the most amazing religious and cultural sites in the capital. Kick back in the city of lakes. Scream your way through rough rapids. The choice is yours. To help you choose what to do, read our cover story on holiday getaways.
What else is inside this month? Regular contributor Charlie Das Udasin, an Udasin Sadhu traveled on his first Sadhana to Gosaikund to mark the Janai Purnima festival and brought back with him not just a travelogue but a story of people, culture, religion and how a chillum helps with altitude sickness. Read on to know more about his journey to the holy lake. Ang Sanu Lama writes about letting go of your inhibitions and grappling down a canyon in her piece on one of the new-er adventure sports available in Nepal. Another regular contributor Sradda Thapa fondly reminisces about her time in Madrid and about a white lie concerning her and American President Barack Obama. This and much more is inside the cover of our now much lighter, more-convenientto-stuff-into-your-already-heavy-backpack magazine; one more reason to call ourselves your perfect travel companion! Happy Traveling! The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
Want to Write for Travel Times? Do you love traveling and want to write about your travel experiences? With Travel Times, you can now share your travel stories with thousands of like-minded fellow travelers. Have you always been exhilarated by the idea of traveling and being footloose? Have you always dreamt of spending life on the road or escaping into the wild? What have been your best travel memories ? What is your wildest travel fantasy? At Travel Times we’d love to read about your experiences and help you present them better to a readership that is as passionate about traveling as you are. So hurry up and send us your travel stories, with pictures to match and your story might be the published on the next issue of Travel Times.
For subscription (
01 5536733
or type SUBS TT and send SMS to 98010 98010 or log on to www.traveltimes-mag.com
Rules and Instructions The only rules that we have is you are writing about a trip you have undertaken by yourself, that you have a good selection of photos and that you are very passionate about what you are writing. The final article should be no more than a 1000 words. Tell about where you went, what that interested you about the place, and why you want to tell people about it. Also include a few details about yourself - your age, profession, the companions you traveled with and let us know how we can reach you. Send your stories to editorial@traveltimes-mag.com
Log on to www.traveltimes-mag.com
to read all back issues of tRavel times from any corner of the world. For regular updates on on travel news, destinations, etc. join us in www.facebook.com/traveltimes
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
11
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Contents presents
Contents
TIMES
For more details, refer to page no. 114 or simply dial
12
01 5536733
Dashain getaways
Gorkha maNAKAMANA tREKKING TRAIL
on COVER STORY
Every holiday season we hang out at home indulging in the usual meat, cards liquor routine. Change things around. This year, travel during the festive season.
32
on destination spotlight
In-house writer Nisha Shakya and our staff photographer Suresh Maharjan traveled to Gorkha this summer and discovered a new side to the hilly town.
66
Canyoning
on adventure intro
82
What can be more exciting than climbing a steep cliff? Perhaps climbing down a canyon; read on to find out if canyoning is for you.
chAllenging the BABA on People & Culture
Freelance writers and an Udasin Baba, Charlie Das writes about his fist Sadhana to the holy Gosaikund to mark the Janai Purnima festival.
Forbidden City on Global Treasure
Dashain Special
Abode of Chinese royalty for hundreds of years, the Forbidden City is not forbidden anymore and is home to one sixth of China’s ancient treasures.
86
on opinions
Travel Times talked to the who’s who of Nepali society to find out what they’re doing this Dashain and where they are traveling.
90 28
Dashain
Madrid
Let The Festivities Begin!!! on festival watch
on Travelogue
See Madrid through freelancer Sradda Thapa’s eyes. And oh, pick up some Spanish too.
New clothes, cards, kites, liquor and? Find out why we celebrate Dashain and the meaning behind these rituals.
58
24
104
Start traveling....with Travel Times 12 photo of the month
Reveal the best photography of the month.
14-16 Travel News
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.
20 Travelers’ gallery
Check the best captures sent to us by travelers.
22 Airlines info
78 Recommended Restaurants
56 STD while traveling
92 A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY TO
Find out why and where to go for Budget Airlines Dr Ravi Shankar writes about an often overlooked aspect of traveling – STD. A read can make a huge difference to the kind of trip you have.
74 THE Raddison HOTEL on HOTELS & CASINOS
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.
VINAYAKS IN KATHAMNDU on PHOTOLOGUE
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
13
photomonth of the
by SURESH MAHARJAN
Manakamana temple, situated atop 1300 meters has a deep influence on its devotees as wish fulfilling deity. The shrine holds high religious value as well as historical and natural significance.
www.traveltimes-mag.com
16
Travelnews
news in brief Fourth Kakani Open Changa Chait
Competition 2067
Youth Vision Youth Club is organising the Kakani Open Changa Chait competition on October 8. The club is expecting around 100 participants in the event organized to promote Kakani as a tourism destination. “We have already received confirmation from 51 participants,” said president of the club Pashupati Thapa.
Ganesh Chaturthi observed
Ganesh Chaturthi, the birthday of Lord Ganesh saw a huge celebration on September 11. A religious trip to seven different temples of Lord Ganesh was organized on the day by Tourism Organizer, Dibya Gyan, Nepal Highlights, Gorkha Paryatan, Rastriya Dharma Sabha and WARD Nepal, in association with Nepal Tourism Board (NTB)
Bandipur Mahotsav held
Bandipur Social Development Committee organized a 3-day Destination Bandipur program in Kathmandu from September 23-25. With purpose of establishing Bandipur as a premium tourist destination, the program highlighted Bandipur and its cultural, natural and historical places.
Indra Jatra Celebrated
The 7-day long festival of the God of rain, Indra Jatra was celebrated in Kathmandu valley from 21-27 September. The celebration saw chariot pulling of living Goddess Kumari, Ganesh and Bhairab. The mask dance, Pulukisi, Lakhe and Jhyalincha dance are among other attractions of the festival.
Yeti group overtakes Golf Resort
With successful venture in Airline sector Yeti group is overtaking the well facilitated Gokarna Golf Resort. With 49% of shares already in the part of the group, the resort is in process to handover the remaining 51%. Besides airlines the Yeti group is engaged in hotel, resort, and travel and trekking businesses.
A new eatery in town- Degaa
Degaa-restro lounge saw a large crowd in its opening on 17th September. Located in the hustle and bustle of the center of Kumaripati, the restaurant is a new venture of Mr. Sachit Singh whose former attempt Bhoomi restaurant was a successful one. “We have opened this restaurant in order to affiliate the clients of the Patan area”, said the proud owner. With a 24 feet bar, Degaa boasts of having the longest bar in Patan. The restaurant has a capacity of around 95 guests. It mainly serves Nepali and Newari cuisines. Indian and continental dishes are also available.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
NATIONAL
Tourism and Climate Change Workshop held The “Tourism and Climate Change” Stakeholder Workshop took place in the ICIMOD Headquarter, on Thursday 23 and Friday 24 September 2010. The workshop was opened by Mr. Murari Bahadur Karki, Joint Secretary for the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation, who highlighted the importance of the topic on tourism and climate change, and expressed interest to work further with ICIMOD on this topic. The main objective of the workshop was to share knowledge and experiences on tourism and climate change, and initiate a process for development of a framework for the development of responsible tourism as a strategy for adapting to climate change in KSL Nepal.
of developing a transboundary conservation strategy for the Kailash Sacred Landscape (KSL), with technical and financial support from UNEP. The main aim is to support the development of a Regional Cooperation Framework through coordinated efforts of national partners from China, India and Nepal. The workshop showed participation of 30 participants, represented by key stakeholders from the government, private sector and (I)NGOs.
ICIMOD’s Kailash Sacred Landscape Conservation Initiative (KSLCI) is in the process
NTY stimulates hotel biz to inflate With Nepal Tourism Year 2011 round the corner, immense investments are being made in revamping existing hotels and establishing new ones. Hotel Himalaya, a four-star property, is upgrading to a five-star rating while three new fourstar hotels are coming up. The Implementing Expert Group (IEG), a consortium of small and medium-scale entrepreneurs, is coming up with two four-star hotels in the capital. The existing four-star hotels are also promoting themselves adding more rooms and comforts. Hotel Himalaya is adding 25 rooms and plans to have them operational by mid-October. The Radisson Hotel, a five-star property, is
adding 100 rooms. The Kumari Hotel has applied for three-star status while Fuji Hotel has applied for a two-star rating. Hotel Woodlands, which was closed in 2007, has applied to reopen. Managing director Harihar Lal Shrestha said that the request had been submitted to the Tourism Ministry. Five-star hotels, Yak & Yeti and Soaltee Crowne Plaza are also improving their facilities. The Lumbini Hotel Kasai, a three-star property in Lumbini, has started operations. The Kasai Group of Japan has invested Rs. 500 million in the 46-room hotel. Meanwhile, Hotel Sneha in Nepalgunj has recently been upgraded to three stars from one star. The Opera Hotel in Kanchanpur and the Ratna Hotel in Biratnagar have also been raised to three-star status. The upcoming Tourism Year has also attracted foreign investment in the hotel industry.
Mountain tourism important for NTY 2011 Being a country of Himalayas, mountaineering and adventure tourism are of crucial importance for tourism in the country; more so for the success of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY 2011). Keeping this in mind, the government has implemented some of the recommendations given by a task force set up to advise the government on changes required in this sector. With the changes brought, the royalty for attempting peaks lower than 6,000 meters of height will be nil and provisions for a helping Sherpa and radio communication
obligatory for mountains of 8,000 meters or above and one high altitude guide obligatory for each team for other mountains. Compulsory use of toilet bags at the base camp and above base camp for human waste and the associated agency will be responsible for the proper disposal of those bags bringing them below the base camp are part of the recommendations. As the approach route prepared for different mountains are not behavioral for some mountains, the teams that want to climb through alternative route should be acknowledged.
For lowest fare, Log in to
www.eticketnepal.com
NATIONAL
17
ECO CYCLE RALLY use bicycles. Save fuel, save environment Green Plus, a student organization for raising environmental awareness successfully organized ‘Eco-bicycle rally’ on September 25, 2010. The participants wearing red t-shirts rode their bicycle from Basantapur Durbar Square to Patan Durbar Square supporting the theme of the rally-to make Kathmandu a greener city. With the slogan: ‘Use bicycles, save fuel, save environment’, the rally was initiated by youth politicians Gagan Thapa and Ram Kumari Jhakri, SP of Kathmandu valley - Ramesh Chandra Kharel. The rally also saw participation of other celebrities like former Miss Nepal Sugarika KC, rapper Nirnaya (NSK). The event with participation of more than 300 cyclists included environmentalists, politicians, media personnel, foreigners, students and youths. Travel Times was the official magazine at the event.
Low Fare airline in Kathmandu SpiceJet Ltd. one of India’s most popular low cost airlines of India is all set to start its flights New Delhi – Kathmandu – New Delhi from October 7, 2010. The airline is set to operate six return flights a week. The airline, known for its low-fare carrier, has fixed the air tickets price beginning from INR.1, 499 (excluding taxes) for the flight between New Delhi and Kathmandu. Zenith Travels has been appointed as its General Sales Agent in Nepal. SpiceJet will be using Boeing 737-800 aircraft which has the capacity of 189 passengers. SpiceJet also hopes that the operation of its flights will contribute to make NTY-2011 a grand success by increasing Indian tourists through its quality service. T h e airline is also b e g i n ning Chennai-Colombo flights from October 9, 2010. To enlist your news send us details at news@traveltimes-mag.com
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Travelnews
Travelnews
Sierra Leone welcomes tourists
After a decade of civil war and political chaos, Sierra Leone has now turned to ecotourism to bring much needed funds to the country and to get rid of the demons of the past at the same time. Although certain inroads have been made, the situation is still far from healthy and travelers still live in fear of visiting such a dangerous place. Before the war (19912002), around 100,000 tourists came to Sierra Leone per annum. After falling to around the zero mark during the conflict, the number of tourists is beginning to rise again, though a few years are needed for greater progress. The organization Tribewanted may have a lot to do with any future success stories. It organizes holidays for tourists, who have the privilege of paying $450 for a stay in a typical povertystricken community.
interNATIONAL
Qatar pledges £4bn to FIFA World Cup Qatar has unveiled plans to invest US$4 billion to build nine stadiums and upgrade three more in its bid to stage the 2022 FIFA World Cup.
On show were designs including one in the shape of a sea urchin and another wrapped in a screen that will display moving video images during matches.
The Arabian Gulf emirate is hoping to become the first Arab country to host the tournament, with FIFA scheduled to confirm the hosts of the 2018 and 2022 tournaments in December this year. FIFA representatives are currently visiting Qatar to evaluate its bid.
Qatar is competing against Japan, South Korea and Australia to host the 2022 competition, while Belgium/Netherlands, England, Russia, Portugal/Spain and the United States are seeking to host either the 2018 or 2022 events.
Euro Disney eyes third Paris resort Euro Disney has until 2030 to build a third park in the Marne-la-Vallée region to add to the original Disneyland Paris, opened in 1992, and the neighboring Walt Disney Studios, which opened in 2002.
Euro Disney has signed a new deal with the French government that gives the theme park operator the option to build a new complex on undeveloped land east of Paris, within the next 20 years.
As well as a theme park, the project includes a new eco-tourism resort, which would be developed in partnership with Pierre & Vacances, plus a housing development. The amount of land available for development is 2,230 hectares. The Walt Disney Company owns a 40 percent share in Euro Disney, and Prince Al-Waleed of Saudi Arabia has a 10 percent stake.
Launching of new routes to popular tourist destinations by Air China Air China has launched several new routes for the late summer and autumn seasons, giving further options to customers who plan on travelling over the coming months. A number of new tourist routes have been launched including Beijing-Manzhouli, ChengduUrumqi-Korla, Sinkiang and ChongqingQingdao.
“These new routes will offer China’s growing number of tourists the opportunity to visit some of the most beautiful parts of this country,” said Zhou Enyong, General Manager of Air China’s marketing department. “Over the past few months, we have launched several new and updated routes in order to bring our customers the best in convenience and comfort, as well as a wide-range of travel options.”
Growth in visitor arrivals to Asia
would allow budget airlines to squeeze more passengers into their tight cabins.
and the Pacific
news in brief
www.traveltimes-mag.com
18
The Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) released the preliminary Asia Pacific international visitor arrivals figures for the month of June 2010, showing year-on-year growth in arrivals of 17%. For the first half-year of 2010, international visitor arrivals to the region grew by a robust 11%, as compared to the same period last year.
Boon for Budget Airlines Budget Airlines could be closer to fulfilling its dream of squeezing even more passengers onto its planes with the unveiling of a new “standing seat” that will allows seat to be overlapped and
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
The travel and adventure show with adventures in Travel Expo is the longest running series of consumer travel events in the United States. This year it is being held on the 16th and 17th of October in New York.
Brazil, Russia, India and China
Tourism grows up to 88%
The number of tourists visiting the UK from the fast-growing ‘BRIC’ economies – Brazil, Russia, India and China – is set to leap, according to a new report from VisitBritain.
Boeing inks deal to put tourists in
Travel and Adventure show
space by 2015
US aerospace giant Boeing has forged an alliance with marketing firm Space Adventure to put tourists into low-level orbit in a futuristic capsule by early 2015.
Shangri-La named “Best Business
Hotel Brand in Asia-Pacific”
Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts has been voted Best Business Hotel Brand in Asia Pacific for the tenth consecutive year and won a total of seven awards in Business Traveller Asia-Pacific magazine’s 2010 Readers’ Poll.
For lowest fare, Log in to
www.eticketnepal.com
19
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
NewsandEvents
www.traveltimes-mag.com
22
Travelers’gallery
y r e l l a G ’ s Traveler
album, you will always come across Going through any travelers’ photo th away. These images have their brea one or two images that take your to a particular time and place. own stories to tell and they belong lly perfect but they bring a moment These images need not be technica t wonderful experiences of one’s to life, capture and preserve the mos again and again. It could ents life, and helps one relive those mom aps it’s the sight of an perh hing anyt show be taken anywhere, and streets of Kathmandu, a beautiful innocent child playing in the narrow sense of satisfaction on the face of sunrise or it could be the smile and tiresome day. a an exhausted worker at the end of pictures with our readers. Send Travel Times allows you to share your ils with brief captions and contact deta your high-resolution photographs ect. subj the as ry Galle ’ elers Trav to traveltimes.mag@gmail.com with
A Tamang women in her traditional attire during Temal Jatra at Boudhanath Stupa. By Kushal Goyal
Perfect capture of Stunning Fewa Lake in rain
By Mohan Duwa l
Rara Lake, surr trail circling theounded by dense forest, snow-cap serenity in its pristpicturesque lake, offers the extr ped peaks and mystica l eme remoteness an ine nature. d By Sagar Budh at
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
hoki
work), On our way back from Surkhet to Kathmandu (after a hectic few days of fieldcolor on us we were stopped by a bunch of local kids who were very interested on puttingand made us on cheer a put hey T s. themselve as happy as and and making us as colorful By Himadri Palikhe the long tiring travel back home bearable.
www.traveltimes-mag.com
24
AIRLINESINFO
Budget Airline Budget Airline is most appropriate for those who do not have many bags to carry and do not care about in-flight meals, complimentary drinks and pre-bookable seats.
Budget Airline (BA) or a low cost airline is an airline that generally has lower fares. It does not charge you except for the real ticket price. However, the airline may charge for extras like food, seat allocating, priority boarding, baggage and other services. Hence Budget Airline becomes the most appropriate for those who do not have many bags to carry and do not care about in-flight meals, complimentary drinks and prebookable seats. Budget Airlines are popular as you can get to the place just as fast as in a much more expensive airline. The tickets for these airlines can be booked online with a click. Extra charges need to be paid
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
only if you want the services and they frequently run promotional fares so you can travel at much cheaper rates. Travelling by air has always been considered as a luxury of the rich. The nonsensical extra costs that the airlines charge for a short route always scare the passengers and creates a question for the value of money and service. The arrival of Budget Airline in 1997 has opened up a new dimension in the aviation sector and has made air travel accessible to people regardless of their income. With BA, you need not restrict your travel due to a tight budget. You can escape for a weekend or make a trip anytime you want.
25
The concept of Budget Airlines started in 2003 in Nepal. Since then the frequency of Nepali travelers via air has increased significantly. Since Budget Airlines fly with the principle “What you need is what you pay”, it avoids the unnecessary charges and is suitable for the Nepali traveler. Here are few of the Budget Airlines that operate in Nepal.
air arabia
Air Arabia, established in February 2003 is said to be the first budget airline in the Middle East region. Based in Sharjah in the UAE, Air Arabia the low-cost airline, operates its services throughout the Middle East and in the Indian subcontinent. Air Arabia started its Sharjah - Kathmandu- Sharjah flight from November 2006. It currently operates 12 flights per week on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The scheduled flights depart
flydubai
Flydubai is a low cost airline operating flights to, from and via Dubai. Established in March 2008, the airline has reduced operating costs by lowering airfares. All fares of the airline are one-way and tax-inclusive. With an aim to make Nepal more accessible to a greater number of people in the
Jetlite
Started three years ago in April 2007, Jetlite is an economical subsidiary airline of Jet Airways India Ltd that connects 25 domestic cities of India and 2 international cities to Kathmandu and Colombo. Operating over 110 flights every day, the airline offers ‘Buy on board’ in-flight meals, inflight shopping and other services.
at 17:30 hrs and arrive the same evening in Sharjah at 20:20 hrs. This allows useful connections to other destinations. The Air Arabia fleet consists of Airbus A320 aircraft with seat capacity up to 162. Despite being a budget airline, it has up to 30kgs of free luggage allowance while other airlines allow less than 10-15 kgs only. It is further increasing its flight to two flights per day from November of this year.
UAE, flydubai started its service in December of 2009. Currently the airline has daily flights from and to Dubai. It gives greater connectivity to 16 other destinations such as the South East, Egypt, and Sri Lanka. At present Flydubai has a fleet of six Boeing 737-800 aircraft that have 189 economy class seats. It has free baggage allowance up to 10 kgs only.
At present, the airline operates daily flight from Kathmandu to Delhi and vice-versa. The flight leaves Kathmandu at 12:00 hours and lands in Delhi at 13:45 hours. The service is offered with a Boeing 737800 Airbus that has 186 seating capacity. The baggage allowance is up to 20 kgs.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Airlinesinfo
www.traveltimes-mag.com
26 TRAVELOGUE
On Tapas, Plazas and Bocatas –
Relishing Madrid Words Sradda Thapa
I landed in Spain a month after the inauguration of America’s 42nd president, so it was well over a year ago. But, as the Spaniards battled the Dutch to earn their coveted first world cup this summer, I was taken back to my brief but beautiful trip to the memorable city of Madrid. It is, as always, a relief to be a tourist without actually looking like a tourist. And, while this is difficult as a brown-skinned-browneyed girl in much of Europe, Madrid was not the case. Starving as soon as I landed, I hunted for a restaurant. I made my way from the airport to the city and found a café near an address my friend had emailed me. I scuttled in and feeling not-as-jetlagged as much as frazzled, sat myself down and smiled at the server. Far from fluent in the Spanish language, I pointed at a few dishes that sat inside a glassed counter and looked like marinated meat and zesty vegetable. I had little idea then as to what I was feasting upon, but no sooner had he brought it over that I scarfed it down. Satisfied and suppressing a burp, I felt a grandfather-ly man staring at me. Wondering if I had sauce on my face, I avoided his gaze. My introduction to the Spanish language meant I caught very little of what he was then beginning to say. So, I awkwardly tried
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
rah Raub
Photo by: Sa
rid -
’ in Mad heart of ‘OKM Right at the . ty ci e th the center of
out a phrase, Lo ciento, habla no espanol. Sorry I don’t speak Spanish. He tried again, very slowly De donde eres? This one I could do, but mindful of what my mother had taught as a child I didn’t want to tell him where I was really from, so I mentioned where I was livin Soy de DC, uh… Washington DC…? My new friend broke into a huge smile and offered me his English. Obama! Your neighbor? Obama? Hmm. Not exactly. We lived in the same city, yes, but far from shared the same zip code. Then again, when you’re across the ocean that minor detail hardly seems to matter. So, I nodded. And we chatted in “Spanglish”. Proud of my ability to converse in what little Spanish I knew, I thanked the language Gods, but in particular Mark and Cara over at Coffee Break Spanish, a handy podcast I’d irregularly listened to for a few months. The free iTunes application is highly recommended for any Nepali planning a trip because Spanish easily rolls off of Nepali tongues. In fact, it’s not just the language but the city itself that makes it easy for a Nepali to call it their own. Between tangy dishes, a nonchalant notion of “time” and just how much we look
like the black-haired, olive-skinned South Americans who also populate the city, a Nepali readily feels less like a tourist and more like a local. However, merely passing for a local is not half as good as having a local host. In my case, it was Ryan. He lived on the outskirts of the city and when not working, took time to show me the city he obviously missed when we were students in Boston. Madrid, not unlike Boston, is a wonderfully walk-able city. And, it’s not just at the tranquil gardens, with a large lake in the middle, where boys skateboard and couples enjoy the botany that leisurely walks seem natural. Because how easy is it to navigate a city that has an absolute center point – Puerta de Sol (Gate of the Sun)?
Also known as “0KM”, this is where radial network of the Spanish roads begin. It is, I was also told, the place to gather on New Year’s Eve. And, at the Cibeles Square, right around the corner, stands Palacio de las Comunicaciones (Telecommunications Palace). Deceptive architecture for it stands more like a stately palace than a simple post office. But, it is in front, at the Cibeles Fountain that the Madrid football team’s fans gather to celebrate and splash at the end of victorious games – I can only imagine the impromptu party the fountain hosted when Spain erupted with euphoria after earning their enviable first star. Royal Palace of Madrid, Palacio de Oriente may be the official residence for the King of Spain, but the current monarch has opted for a less ornate housing on the outskirts of the city. The palace is partly welcome to visitors and is used more for state ceremonies. It is most accessible from the Opera metro station – easy to remember because you will hear echoes of majestic opera, groovy jazz and all other form ooze out of the music cells and onto the palace gardens. We encircled the royal palace, where in the evenings mushy couples adoringly stared at each other and forget to note the palace, but where by day people lunched and smiled at the stubborn horse that refused to abide his master during the change-of-guard ceremony. After such a royal visit, hunger pangs ensued. Not a bad sensation in this city because half of Madrid, much like
Kathmandu, is about the food. The coffee is rich and the ice-cream is sweet, but the bocata is something you absolutely cannot miss. Ryan’s girlfriend, Jessica, showed me how to coat the freshly fried calamari set between soft bread with squeezed lemon. She didn’t need to show me how to enjoy it. Licking our fingers, we strolled to the heart of the city, to the bustling Plaza Mayor. Previously a meeting place for merchants and traders who tumbled in from the then larger city of Toledo, it is today the durbar square of Spain – souvenir stores, restaurants and tapas bars dominate the square when the square’s spirits are not being lifted during festivities, open markets and Easter and Christmas celebrations. The first walls of the square were built in the mid1500s after multiple fires and restorations. In 1848, the statue of King Felipe II was erected in the center. In the 1960s the plaza was closed off to traffic (take a clue, Thamel!) and in 1992 the mystical mural of angels and saints was decorated unto the Casa de lapanaderia (“The Baker’s House). The ancient plaza is home to the world’s oldest restaurant, Sabrino de Botin, which was founded in 1725. Food aside, a series of stores selling junkets and trinkets line the street, but also trendy stores, like Spain’s own brand, Bershka – where I was prodded to thumb through magazines, listen to CDs and watch some videos while trying on outfits and accessories. Now, that’s a nice way to shop!
And, it is to the Plaza Mayor that we returned to in the evenings, night by other standards, since it was well past 9 or 10PM, but just the start of the evening for Spaniards, to devour tapas. The Spanish way of eating is entirely different to that of the Nepali. Whereas we eat two or three generous meals a day, they take it slow, they eat a little here, a little there, they drink, they chat, and they savor. Tapas, in the typical Spaniard ways, are small snacks that used to accompany drinks ordered at tapas bars but are becoming something you have to order on its own. Tapas can be anything – olives, fish, potatoes, eggs, green pepper, elaborate sandwich – you name it. A night out with buddies is composed of visiting multiple tapas bars through a good portion of the night –usually one bar is renowned for one type, so you make your way around the city, tapas in one hand, drinks in the other, surrounded by friends - a far from shabby way to spend any evening! Madrid is a truly vibrant city, and if the names Picasso, Velazquez, Bosch, Goya, Tintoretto or my personal favorite, Rembrandt mean anything to you, you will probably drool as you make your way through the majestic halls and chambers of the Museo del Prado. For the artist in you, the Prado Museum – the ninth most visited museum in the world - is a must. Even for those of us who unfortunately just got by their 9th grade Fine Arts class it is an opportunity to gape at the renowned Picasso petals and Rembrandt shadings. It is exciting enough to plaster a smile on our faces and keep us shuffling down the mile-long line that it takes to even enter the building.
For the artist in you, the Prado Museum – the ninth most visited museum in the world - is a must.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
27
The historical and quaint city of Toledo, a day trip for Madrid, is not to be missed.
Despite the museum’s grandeur, and just like a visit to Kathmandu would feel incomplete without a trip to Bhaktapur, I left the vibrant city of Madrid for the more subdued town of Toledo. As a Nepali who grew up in a city full of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it is as easy to overlook as it is to appreciate another, especially when its grandeur is equivalent. But the distinctively non-Nepali architecture and style keeps you on your toes. The tiny city nestled atop the hill is full of restaurants, souvenir shops and tourists. The endless gulleys composed of narrow cobble stoned streets are pretty and all too easy to lose yourself in. But getting lost is nothing to worry about - Toledo is so small you will pop out onto the less daunting streets sooner or later. The city of Toledo is of great historical importance too. It was the main commercial and administrative center for a Roman province and its wealth is apparent in the buildings that stand proud even today. Once home to the peaceful co-existence of Christians, Muslims and Jews in Toledo, the Museo Sefardi attempts to preserve the essence of that era. The museum is housed
The tiny city nestled atop the hill is full of restaurants, souvenir shops and tourists.
in the Synagogue de el Transito. Other must sees include the Gothic Cathedral that dates back to the 13th century and the Tornerías Mosque that dates to the 11th century. The entire city seems to be a tribute to the evidence of the Muslim-HebraicHispanic coexistence of days gone by. A meeting point of various peoples and cultures in history, the legacy continues today. After spending all morning walking around I spotted something that teased my hunger pangs. Signboards advertising Döner Kebabs (Shwarmas in Arabic or Gyros in Greek) pulled me into a store and I eagerly watched as the olive-skinned man pulled off layers of the meat from the rotating spit cast in front of the heated iron plate. He slapped the pile high meat in with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and garnished it with a few flavorings in between two slices of thick pita. As I began my lunch I could overheard him speaking in Hindi. Turns out Toledo today, much like in history, continues to be a meeting point, a place for different customs and peoples to co-exist – Here I was, a Nepali girl, eating a sandwich that originated in Turkey, which in turn was made by an Indian man, while sitting on a bar stool in Spain. Stuffed and smiling, I walked about town, bought a few souvenirs and caught the bus to the
Photo by: Benjamin Jacob
bottom of the hill where the train station waited to scoot me back to bustling Madrid. It was only early evening when I got back so my friend and I walked about the city. Walking about in Madrid seemed to be not just to get somewhere. It is as similar to soaking in the always pleasant sun, a way of life for those that call Madrid their home. Ryan and I enjoyed an espresso and had another bout of tapas. I saw him eyeing a football game being played by 12-year olds and I commented how late 10PM on a Tuesday was for children. Ryan smiled. He explained how normal these friendly scuffles on the side of the streets were as children wait for their parents to finish up dinner inside the many restaurants that lined the streets of Madrid. As the parents finished dinner, I finished my trip to Madrid with Churros - fried pieces of bread, dipped in melted chocolate. Warm, comforting and delicious, a fitting way to bid adieu to a city that knew how to enjoy, eat and live - truly, viva la España!
www.traveltimes-mag.com
30
opinions
Dashain is the country’s biggest festival; a time to rejoice and also to rejuvenate. It is the time of the year when we get the longest vacation too. This is when most Nepali people get to travel. Travel Times talked to some well-known personalities about their preparations for Dashain, how are they going to make the most of this festival time and their travel plans.
We will be going to Nagarkot, Kakani, and other nearby places. Kiran Manandhar A senior artist, Kiran Manandhar who started his artistic career from 1972 has held over 108 exhibitions in Nepal, India, France, Germany, and Finland.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Dashain is time for family gatherings for me. Since I have been living in Paris for more than 10 years, for all these years I was not here for Dashain. However, this time since I am here, I am going to finally celebrate Dashain with my family. In addition, I have been nominated as Chancellor of Nepal Fine Art Academy and have a huge responsibility. Therefore, Dashain this time will be for work and family.
I travel a lot. But for this festival season, I don’t have any long travel plans. However, we will be going to Nagarkot, Kakani, and other nearby places. We are planning to visit different restaurants and have some amazing Newari cuisine. I am a foodie and mostly prefer Newari food. Since Dashain can be synonymous to feasting each day, the festival is going to be a major food festival for me.
31
I have been really looking forward to go for a trek to Annapurna Base Camp and Everest Base Camp regions. During Dashain I am usually occupied with musical programs around the country and abroad. Most of the times, in the past, I was not with my family. But this year since, my wife has just given birth to a baby and so I have cancelled all my tour programs. I am going to be free from work, so I’ll be spending time with friends and family this Dashain. However travelling has always
been a part of my job. I have travelled to most parts of Nepal and abroad for programs. But all these travels have been for work than for personal joy. I have also organized a program ‘DJ Raju World Tour’ and am planning to finish it within 2011. But personally I have been really looking foreward to go for a trek to ABC and Everest Base Camp (EBC) regions.
DJ Raju A well-known celebrity in the Nepali DJing field, DJ Raju is amongst the most popular musicians in Nepal.
Binod Tuladhar The proprietor and Executive Director of Bluebird Department Store, Binod Tuladhar is the pioneer of European styled self-service shopping centres in Nepal.
I am really looking forward to visiting some Russian countries as well. My father is the “Thakali” (head) of the family and we have various rituals to be performed during Dashain so we seldom have any travel plans during this time. Also since we are in the retail business, Dashain is the “season” for our business so I don’t have any travel plans. For me this year Dashain is going to be traditional. However, I have a group of all couples and we mostly plan our travel
together. We usually visit Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore, as these places are not too far and are relaxing. We won’t go during Dashain but we are planning to take a trip to Greece and Turkey by the end of this year. I am really looking forward to visiting some Russian countries as well. We also have some trekking plans to some famous places in Nepal like Mustang, Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) and others.
I really like to go to India. It has all types of travel places that suit me. I feel like Dashain is only for children. The new clothes, meat delicacies and kites were more luring when I was younger. Now Dashain is the most uninteresting time for me. I am a vegetarian and I don’t drink or gamble, so Dashain becomes boring for me. As I have to be a part of the family function I cannot even go out and for this Dashain also it’s the same.
Rajesh Kaji Shrestha Chairman and managing Director of R. K. associates at present, Rajesh Kaji Shrestha is an ex-president of FNCCI.
Traveling during Dashain is not possible as it’s a family function. But this year, I am going to China on Tika. We have put trade fairs at various parts of China so I will be visiting there. Besides this when I get to travel, I really like to go to India. It has all types of travel places that suit me. The similarities in both countries also make traveling a lot easier.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
OPINIONS
www.traveltimes-mag.com
32
OPINIONS
I like to travel to cool places like Nainital and to hill stations. B. R. Sharma President of Global Jobs, Mr. B.R. Sharma is also managing director of Int’l Management Institute of Nepal.
Ashwini Acharya The Director of Sales and Marketing of Fulbari Resort and Spa, is also the General Manager of Casino Fulbari. Being a local resident, I really don’t travel much. So Dashain is going to be a family celebration for me. As I have been looking after Fulbari Casino and Restaurant, work comes alongside the festival. Nevertheless, I am travelling to Bangladesh and Mumbai but these are work related trips.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
My family is in India so undoubtedly I will be going there for this Dashain to be with my parents. Dashain celebration will be in the usual way with various rituals being performed and friends’ gathering. This year my friends in India
have invited me to join them on a holiday to Thailand and Bangkok. The exotic location and beaches of the country are really beautiful. So most probably, I will be travelling there. I like to travel to cool places like Nainital and to hill stations.
I am also very interested to visit Lake Rara. The serenity of the place is really enticing.
During this time, my primary duty is to be with my family and be a part of the rituals held at home.
Personally, I would like to go Palpa. It has been 10-12 years since I was last there. I am also very interested to visit Lake Rara. The serenity of the place is really enticing. Swargadwari in Pyuthan district is where I would make my next tour. It has been years since I have been thinking about traveling to that area.
Dashain is the biggest festival for all of us. It is more about family gatherings and social reunions. So during this time, my primary duty is to be with my family and be a part of the rituals held at home. As everyday of the festival has its significance, the days are spent being involved
Vijay B. Shrestha Vijay Shrestha is the Executive Director of Yeti Airlines, the leading domestic airline of Nepal. in family events. I avoid travelling during this time and even if I do go, it will be to various temples around the city. On top of that, being in the service sector, customer service is our first preference. As many passengers travel to their homes at this time of year, more service is required.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
33
www.traveltimes-mag.com
34
COVERSTORY
Get Away! Top Destinations for the Festive Season
If life is a book, those who don’t travel, read but a page. Words Utsav Shakya
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
35
Words Utsav Shakya Photos Courtesy Pushkar Shah
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
36
CoverStory
The Nepali calendar will show you that our year is punctuated regularly with holidays for numerous festivals. A holiday for the wet and wild Holi - the Hindu water festival and one for Gai Jatra - which celebrates the life of those departed, one for Lhosar - the Tibetan New Year and one for Eid ul-Fitr or Eid - a Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan - the Islamic holy month. However, most of these holidays and others that dot our mundane weekdays are single-day celebrations. Most Nepalese work 6-day weeks, which means that Friday nights are spent nursing cold ones in neoghborhood bars and Saturday mornings nursing the awful, inevitable hangover. So when do we get out and vacation? When do we get away? During the leave we all get for the Hindu festivals of Dashain and Tihar? Bingo! Truth be told, until a few years ago, traveling for the sake of traveling alone was an alien concept to most Nepalese. So much so, that the word tourist still sounds synonymous to foreigners for most of us. Even those who could afford to shell out a few lakhs (10 lakhs equal 1 million) to shop in Bangkok or doze off in front of the sunsets in Bali, seldom traveled, opting instead to splurge locally or just invest in shares, gold and land. Even easily accessible, affordable and
popular local destinations like Pokhara saw only international tourists. Not anymore! Domestic tourism is finally alive and kicking! More Nepalese are traveling now than ever before. With time, perspectives are slowly but surely changing with people opting to dip into their savings and spending it on seeing more of the world that they live in, whether it be the next town or a city on the other side of the world. The growing numbers of tour operators setting up shop in our cities are proof of this changing trend. Nepalese, most of us at least, work as hard anyone else, so why shouldn’t we vacation accordingly? Also, while we’re it, let’s lose the guilt associated with kicking back once in a while and enjoying the fruits of our hard work. Queuing up for petrol at unearthly hours of the day, early morning grocery runs, late nights at work, potholed roads on the way back home, load shedding, helping with the children’s homework and the dishes, falling asleep in front of the TV; enough is enough. You’ve been saving up for as long as you can remember. This festive season, be good to yourself. Get away from it all. Go on vacation!
You know when to go. For where and why, read on for a useful guide to the perfect, short getaway. We have for you a list of places to go to and things to do this festive holiday season. There is something in here for every one of you. So take a look, find your calling and get going!
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
37
www.traveltimes-mag.com
38
CoverStory
Kathmandu Valley
- The Melting Pot
Potholed roads, unbelievable traffic jams, an ever-increasing cost of living – Kathmandu is the center of all kinds of activity. Love it or hate it, it is the capital for a reason. From culture to clubs and arts to adventure, the valley has it all. Divided into three historic districts, Kathmandu, Lalitpur and Bhaktapur, all three have their own distinct flavor allowing visitors to enjoy three diverse places in one valley.
KATHMANDU
A great mix of the new and the old
Left to Right: Bouddha, Kathmandu Durbar Square
The cultural, financial, arts capital of the country; Kathmandu city is a great mix of the new and the old, of the modern and the traditional. Nowhere else does this seem as seamless and natural as in this touted town of temples. Old monuments and temples jostle for space with malls and parking lots and people from all 75 districts of the country pour in each day, attracted by the hustle bustle of the big city. Kathmandu is one big melting pot of people, culture and time. Start off with some food. An eating out culture is booming like never before in the city. From the locals’ favorite momo and Indian snack stalls in New Road to upscale joints in Thamel and Lazimpat serving everything from Italian to OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Japanese cuisine - you name, Kathmandu will serve it up. If you want some authentic Nepali food though, Nepali Chulo might be your kind of place. Time for some clubbing or maybe some live music to liven up your evening? Visitors will revel in the budding live music scene, with young musicians wowing your auditory senses in private clubs as well as world class DJs coming in regularly to play here. If it is culture and architecture you seek, the Basantapur Durbar Square with its centuries-old palaces and temples should wow you. Also, pay a visit to the oldest Buddhist stupa in the world, the recently renovated Swoyambhunath stupa. The Bouddhanath stupa is also
equally popular amongst Buddhists here. Pashupatinath is one of the oldest Hindu temples in the city and brings in thousands of Hindu devotees every year for the Shiva Ratri festival; a festival which supposedly takes away the cold from the valley.
Not to miss:
Pashupatinath - which is the most important Hindu pilgrimage site in the region. Swayombhunath – the oldest Buddhist stupa in the world got renovated recently is a huge draw for Budhists and appreciators of culture and architecture. Take a walk through the tourist hub of Thamel and enjoy the live music and night life.
39
Lalitpur
Travel back to an era of arts and architecture If you feel like someone stopped time here when you visit parts of Patan in old Lalitpur, you won’t be the first to think so. Indeed, the architecture of the district, especially the amazing Krishna Mandir - built solely out of stone –will take you back to the golden age of arts and architecture in Nepal when the Mallas ruled over the country for over 550 years. One visitor put it well when she said, “If you listen closely, you can hear the breath of centuries here.” Some of the streets in Patan are so narrow that they seem built that way to obstruct traffic. It suits the place well. With temples around each turn,
quite literally, the whole of Patan is akin to a museum in motion - a casually arranged collection of captivating art and architecture of a fantastic, bygone era. Patan Durbar Square, which consists of the ancient palace of Patan’s ruling family, - now a restored amazing museum, as well as the famed Krishna Mandir was built for gatherings. Today with a bustling nightlife consisting of street food and street markets, the square remains true to its purpose. Not to miss sites here are the Krishna Mandir temple - the Golden temple, the Kumbheshor temple and the Mahabouddha temple. While you are in the area, ask for some spicy Newari cuisine and finish off with
some traditional Newari sweets. If you are traveling with kids or happen to be an animal lover, Nepal’s only zoo, the Jawalakhel Zoo with animals unique to this region is nearby. The newer parts of the district including Jawalakhel and Jhamsikhel are where you want to be for a little shopping and eating out. Jhamsikhel especially has a crop of new restaurants serving some amazing food and is a far cry from the noisy alleys of Thamel. Recommended: wood fired pizza at the Roadhouse Café, fresh muffins and other baked delicacies at Cafe Hessed, live music at Moksh and drinks at Chai Chai.
Not to miss:
The Patan Durbar Square with its amazing palace and temples, other important Buddhist temples and shrines, Newar cuisine and the only zoo in the country.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
40
CoverStory
bhaktapur
Stumbling upon the valley’s forbidden city If you felt like the commotion in the streets and the everyday chaos obstruct a clear view of the monuments of yesteryear in the other two districts, then Bhaktapur will delight you. The folks in Bhaktapur have made sure that areas such as the Bhaktapur Durbar Square are cordoned off from traffic or locals trying to open a fast food stand or a kiosk selling kitsch. The effect is one of having stumbled into a forbidden city with plenty to see, do and eat! The district is home to an amazing woodcarving tradition and the national Bhadgaule topi. The most famous site here is without a doubt the charming Bhaktapur Durbar Square. The palace with 55 windows, the stone temple of Batsala Devi, innumerable other temples, architectural showpieces like the Lion Gate and the statue of king Bhupatindra Malla are all reminders of the artistic heritage of the place. Bhaktapur Durbar
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
square was listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Monuments List in 1979. Other interesting sites to visit The National Art Gallery is popular for its collection of ancient and medieval paintings from the Hindu and Buddhist schools. The awesome Nyatapola Temple is a five- storied pagoda built in 1702 AD by King Bhupatindra Malla and is one of the tallest pagodas here. The Bhairavnath Temple is dedicated to Lord Bhairav- the god of terror (!) and is famous for its artistic splendor. The temple dates back to 1718 AD. Nearby is Surya Vinayak, an enchanting temple site of Lord Ganesha, situated amidst smaller, scenic towns. Changu Narayan is the oldest pagoda temple situated at the end of the long ridge built by King Hari Dutta in 323 AD. Visitors might also want take a walk in Thimi, a farming town famous for earthen pots, home spun cotton and artistic masks.
While in Bhaktapur, grab a bite at the centrally located Cafe Natapola and take in the sights as you dig into some local cuisine. Don’t forget to get some Juju Dhhau (milk curd fit for kings), a local favorite and one of the things Bhaktapur is famous for.
Not to miss:
Bhaktapur Durbar Square – is like entering into a forbidden city full of amazing examples of a bygone era’s architecture; Nyatapola temple; the pottery culture in nearby Thimi; the milk curd popular in the area.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
41
www.traveltimes-mag.com
42
CoverStory
Pokhara
- The Lake City
A huge, shimmering lake, an elusive, oddly shaped mountain peak, amazing local cuisine, a young, hip and happening nightlife, a budding adventure sport scene and gateway to some of the most popular treks in Nepal; all of it awaits you in the country’s most popular getaway. So what do you do when you get here? Anything! what to do There is good reason why many tourists, both domestic and international, have fond memories of the place. A valley like the capital, Pokhara is however, noticeably more laidback and less cramped. The famed Lake Side, a short but activity-filled strip along Lake Fewa is full of some great bars, clubs and restaurants. Some of them offer some decent live music too. Boating in Lake Fewa is the most popular activity here. Hire a boat and burn off some calories as you circle around the huge lake. Swimming in the lake is not a good idea although there are plenty who dive into the clear waters to beat the heat. One of the reasons the youth
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
are frequenting Pokhara more now than ever before is for Paragliding off the surrounding hills and getting an uninterrupted view of the city and the lake. You can either DIY or fly off with an expert from the site. A visit to Pohkhara would not be complete without a trip to Devi’s Fall, a beautiful, deep gorge with sturdy scaffolding built around it. The best time to view this spectacular sight is during the monsoon season when the water swells up. Also popular is the Mahendra Gufa (cave), named such after Shah king Mahendra. The limestone cave, lit with electric lights has some amazing stalactite and
stalagmite rocks. Ten minutes into the cave should get you to the Chamero Gufa (bat cave) with thousands of bats hanging on the cave’s ceiling. Give those city legs some exercise and hike up to the Shanti Stupa (30 minutes), situated on the hillock that overlooks Lake Fewa. With ample greenery and far from the city, the site is a treat to urban dwellers. Cycling around the city in the mornings is a great way to see the local life. Pokhara is also the gateway to many amazing trekking trails. Lace up and hit the trails for a short invigorating trek.
43
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
Not to miss:
Boating in Lake Fewa, the nightlife in Lake Side area, local fish eateries, a hike up to Shanti Stupa and Paragliding for a aerial view of the lake city.
what to eat Thakali cuisine, a staple of the people from the Thak region is one of the most popular cuisines in Pokhara. Consisting of a typical dal bhat set with chicken curry and greens, Thakali food is best eaten at local eateries. Do not miss the amazing pizza at Mama Mia. For some fresh fish with your lunch however, forget Lake Side and ask for directions to Duna Tapari.
Accommodations From budget lodges near the Lake Side to star resorts, there are plenty of options for spending the night. For NRs. 500, one should be able to get a decent sized room with attached bath. AC rooms come for upwards of NRs. 1500 and resorts charge upwards of NRs. 2200 for B & B. For luxury seekers, Pokhara offers world class five star hotels too, viz. Fulbari Resort, Hotel Shangril-La and Pokhara Grande.
getting there and around Pokhara is easily accessible by road and is a mere five hours ride from Kathmandu. A flight to Pokhara is roughly 30 minutes. Once you get there, taxis might be your best bet. Local buses are available too. For moving around the city, hiring a cycle for upwards of NRs.15 0 for a day might a good idea too.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
44
CoverStory
Sauraha
- Where the Wild Things Are
So you’ve done the whole laidback thing before and want something different. Its getting a tad bit cold for rafting and you don’t like heights so a bungee trip is off the list. Perfect. Time to reconnect with with man’s original environment. Welcome to the jungle. Welcome, to Sauraha. what to do
what to eat
The good thing about Sauraha is that it allows you to vacation at your own pace. So whether you want to go into the jungle straight from your bus ride there or take the afternoon off and watched the Sunset along the Buri Rapti River, its completely up to you. When you do feel like it, there is much to do here. An Elephant Safari into the dense forests of the Chitwan National Park to see some wildlife should be number on your list. Hold your breath as your mammoth ride trudges around the rhinos or watch in awe as the spotted deer trot off into the distance. If you’re lucky, you just might see an elusive Royal Bengal Tiger come out for a drink of water or to bask in some warm Tarai sun. Perhaps do some Bird Watching, as a shaky, wooden canoe traverses through a crocodileinfested river? Sounds good? It is. Visit the Elephant Breeding Center to feed some adorable baby elephants or even the Crocodile Breeding Center to play with the little ones before they grow up and scare the daylights out of you. In the warm afternoons, trod off to the banks of the Buri Rapti River for some wet and wild Elephant Bathing. Finish the day sipping on a chilled cocktail as you watch the amazing sunset.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Sauraha has its own Thamel lane where you can choose from Italian to Chinese cuisine, all of then of course with a Nepali twist. It’s the Tarai and it gets quite warm, so be careful what you bite into. juices, greens and fruits would be a good idea.
Accommodations All sorts of accommodation are available in Sauraha, from luxurious resorts right in the middle of the jungle to smaller lodges for the backpacker in you. Prices range from NRs. 400 upwards for a decent room with attached bath.
getting there and around Sauraha is a five-hour bus ride from the capital. The nearest airport is the one at Bharatpur, 30 minutes from Sauraha by private cars that are available on hire. Most hotels arrange jeeps for moving around the place. The place is small so you might want to walk or maybe rent a cycle for the day.
Not to miss:
An Elephant Safari through the lush forests, a trip to the Elephant Breeding Center, a canoe ride on a croc infested river and sunsets – watch the dying sun turn the Buri Rapti River into a rich gold color
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
45
www.traveltimes-mag.com
46
CoverStory
Trekking
- Discover Nepal
One of the most absurd questions posed to Nepalese people abroad is - “Have you climbed Mount Everest?” As if the snow capped mountain was in our backyard and was where we chilled our beers. However, the question shows how Nepal’s mountains and trekking have become a part of every Nepali’s global identity. For a country that is 68% hills, most of us have done some bit of hiking in our lives but trekking? Not really. Besides being one of the major draws for tourists visiting Nepal, it remains just that for most Nepalese – something tourists do. However, if you want to see the country in an honest light, there really is no better way to do it than to trek though it. This holiday season, do just that - go on one of these short treks.
Chisa Paani Hike
The short Chisapani trek is quite popular with locals and tourists in the know. A four-day trip, it requires only two days of actual trekking. The trail offers some amazing countryside experience, walks through unspoiled
forests and excellent views of Gaurishankar, Langtang, Dorje Lhakpa and the Everest range. To get here, visitors will have to drive from Kathmandu to Sundarijal (one hour) and walk for
Dhampus Trek
This is a fantastic two-day trek that starts from Phedi which is at a 45-minute driving distance from Pokhara. From Phedi, trekkers will climb through beautiful OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
forests for at least three hours and reach the hilltop named Dhampus. The view from here includes that of the Annapurna South peaks of Annapurna range, Fishtail and
four hours to reach the Chisapani ridge. The uphill walk is through the Shivapurai National Park, itself rich in unique flora and fauna as well as providing some great opportunities for bird watching. Once in Chisapani, the views are mainly of the majestic eastern Himalayas. On the way back, hike through lovely, dense forests. During the winter, wild life - specially spotted deer and wild fowls can be seen as they come out to get some sun. Accommodation is at a family lodge with basic facilities.
Dhaulagiri, Hiunchuli and Lamjung Himal. Dhampus itself is quiet and serene, a good place to unwind and spend time with friends. The sunrise and sunset from here are equally amazing. Dhampus is not just a scenic viewpoint but also a culturally rich Gurung village providing you with a great opportunity to observe the daily lives of the villagers. Accommodation is usually in a small family-run lodge which offers clean continental and local dishes.
Highlights of the trek Fantastic views of Gaurishankar, Langtang, Dorje Lhakpa and the Everest range. Trekking through the Shivapuri National Park is a great way to spot wildlife, do some bird watching and sight unique flora. Places covered: Sundarijal, Chisapani, Shivapuri National Park trekking grade: Easy
Highlights of the trek: Great views of the Annapurna South peaks of Annapurna range, Fishtail, Dhaulagiri, Hiunchuli and Lamjung Himal. Cultural experience in Dhampus’ Gurung village Places covered: Pokhara, Phedi, Dhampus trekking grade: Moderate
47
Everest Mini Trek If you wish to see Everest up close but don’t have the time to trek all the way to Everest Base Camp (EBC), this five-day trek is for you. The trail moves through areas that allow you to take in the finest views of Everest, Amadablum, Lhotse, Nuptse and other mountains. You will also get a rare opportunity to observe the biggest Sherpa village and take in some lessons about their fascinating Buddhist culture. The trek starts with an exciting 45-minute mountain flight to Lukla airport, the highest airport in the world. From Lukla, trekkers will walk along the Dudh Koshi
River and reach Namche Bazaar gateway to Everest - on the second day. The ridge above Namche offers extraordinary views of Everest and other mountains of the Khumbu region. The next stop - Syangboche, offers breathtakingly close views of the tallest mountain of them all as well as the entire range. Visitors can also go the Sherpa village – Khumjung, filled with exotic monasteries, the famed Hillary school and finally return to Namche for an overnight stay. Hiking down to Lukla the next day, trekkers will fly back to Kathmandu.
Highlights of the trek: Fine views of Everest, Amadablum, Lhotse and Nuptse. Flying into and out of the world’s highest airport in Lukla. Khumjung – the biggest Sherpa village Places covered: Dudh Koshi River, Namche Bazaar, Kumjung trekking grade: Moderate to Strenous
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
48
CoverStory
Ghandruk Trek
The Ghandruk trek is a short and easy cultural trek providing some wonderful insight into the lives of the Gurung people whose villages are in the area. The trek offers great views of the Himalayas with mountains such
as Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Hiunchuli and Annapurna South visible clearly. The trail winds through scenic river valleys, rhododendron and orchid bushes and has some moderate ascents and descents.
Trekkers will have to leave Pokhara early in the morning to get to Phedi. The trail climbs steeply up the hill to our right towards Dhampus. Walking along this ridge gives great views of the Annapurnas and Manaslu. Through Birethati, the trail turns right after crossing the River Modi and reaches Ghandruk in about four to five hours. The trail here is quite steep. Trekkers can spend time in neighboring villages or straight off move down to Modi Khola and climb up again to Landruk, walk through paddy fields and move uphill to Pothana via Deurali village. Pothana, situated on the ridge of a hill, offers scenic views of the Annapurna range. Trekkers will then descend to Phedi and get back to Pokhara.
Highlights of the trek: Spellbinding views of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Hiunchuli and Annapurna South. Scenic river valleys and rhododendron forests. Gurung villages Places covered: Pokhara, Phedi, Dhampus, Birethati, Ghandruk, Landruk, Pothana trekking grade: Easy to Moderate
Ghorepani - Poon Hill Trek
The trek to Ghorepani - Poon Hill, which is located in the Annapurna region, makes up one of the most scenic and fun trails in Nepal. The trek offers spectacular mountain views along with charming villages inhabited by the Gurungs & Magars, dense rhododendron forests full of birds and deep sub-tropical valleys, all
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
set below the Annapurnas. One of the highlights of this trip is Poon Hill. When the sun rises, Poon Hill seems to touch the snow-capped Himalayan giants - Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. As with the Ghandruk trek, trekkers begin their trip at Pokhara’s Nayapul, walk along the
banks of the Modi River and get to Birethanti - a large village with many shops & teahouses. From there, the trail continues through the village, following the northern bank of the Bhurungdi River and then climbing steadily to Hille and then to Tikhedhunga at 1525m. The next stop for trekkers is Ulleri - a large Magar village at 2070m. The trail continues to ascend gently through oak & rhododendron forests towards Banthanti, Nangethanti and finally to Ghorepani at 2775m. Trekkers will get to hike up to Poon Hill with superb sunrise and sunset views and panoramic views of the Himalayas. Coming back to Ghorepani, trekkers will then move to Tadapani from where a downhill trail through forests reaches Ghandruk. From Ghandruk, its back to Nayapul and then to Pokhara.
Highlights of the trek: Amazing views of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Hiunchuli and Annapurna South. Sunrise, sunset and star gazing at Poon Hill. Places covered: Pokhara, Birethati, Bhurungdi River, Hille, Tikedhunga, Ghorepani, Tadapani trekking grade: Easy to Moderate
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
49
www.traveltimes-mag.com
50
CoverStory
Adventure Sports
-LetLetGoGo
Long hours at the office make you feel like swearing out aloud and jumping off somewhere. Every day routines reduce your once active life into mere existence. You miss not knowing what you’ll be doing later that day or where you’ll end up by nightfall. You haven’t felt an adrenaline rush for years. You miss feeling alive. This holiday season, change all this. Regain control or rather lose it with some exciting adventure sports. what to do Nepal is slowly turning into the Mecca for adventure sports in Asia. You name it and it’s here. Bungee off into the roaring Bhote Koshi River and feel that rush your life was missing. Opt for the Bungee Swing as you soar into nothingness and relish the abandon you longed for everyday. Scale a waterfall in the opposite direction. Canyoning lets you grapple for a hold as you climb down a cool, slippery and steep waterfall.
Where to do it The tranquil Last Resort alongside the Bhote Koshi River, near the Nepal China border, is the place to get that shot of adrenaline you’ve been craving for. To add to the list are amazing hikes into the surrounding forests to sight some rare birds and flora. For rafting on other rivers, a slew of travel and tour operators are available in the market. Make sure you check their credentials though.
Need something that lasts longer and gets you wet? Yes we are still talking about adventure sports - those deceivingly quiet-looking rivers you glanced at from the highway make for some amazing White Water Rafting. Conquer the rapids and feel ten feet tall. You could also fly off to Pokhara’s Sarangkot to come closest to flying like an eagle as you Paraglide over Lake
Fewa and take in an aerial view of the Himalayas. Haven’t had enough? Dust off your helmet, get your Mountain Bike out of the garage and hit the slopes around the valley itself. For those of you in Kathmandu, hills surround you so get to the nearest one, perhaps the Shivapuri hills and speed down off-roads, letting every bone feel the terrain.
How to get there The Last Resort runs a shuttle service for their clients. Local buses are available but not timely. Private cars and jeeps are a good idea. Bikes are not; the road gets super rough at a few places. The resort is approximately a three-hour drive from Kathmandu. For paragliding in Pokhara, either take the 30-minute flight there or a five-hour ride on the highway.
The Last Resort:
4700525, 4701247 (Sales office), 4410753 (Head office)
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
51
Renewing Your Faith
There comes a time in every one’s life when the normal vacation just does not do it anymore. Evereything starts to feel like just one more thing to do. Going away for a few fun days seems pointless and redundant. Maybe it is time to renew your faith in that pillar of society that the Nepalese most lean on – religion. Kathmandu is a town of temples but some sites stand out for the sheer amount of history and heritage linked to it. However, the capital is not the only place with popular religious sites. Maybe this Dashain you’d like to spend some time around these places.
Lumbini
Birthplace of the Buddha, Lumbini still retains the charm of a small town The birthplace of the Gautam Buddha, Lumbini is one religious site you don’t want to miss. Listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, the main Lumbini Garden is now an amazing collection of stupas and monasteries representing Buddhism around the world. Initiated by one time UN General Secretary U Thant, work is still going on here but most sites are ready for visitors. Highlights of the gardens are the Maya Devi Temple where the Buddha was born, the footprint of the Buddha and centuries-old ruins from that era. The German Tara Foundation’s monastery and the Japanese Peace Pagoda are definite highlights for their
unique architecture. The gardens are out of bounds for cars and bikes and a ride on these will only give you a short tour. A better idea is to hire a bicycle to go around the sites. This will allow you to take your time and save up a bit too. Getting to Lumbini takes about ten hours by bus from the capital. The nearest airport is in Bhairahawa - 22 km away from Lumbini. Accommodation is available to suit all types of tourists. A smart idea would be to spend a night or two at one of the monasteries that have
small hostels. Rooms are cheap here and you get to truly soak in the mood of the gardens where the Buddha was born.
Not to miss:
Go during the winter time to enjoy the warm Tarai sun. Do not miss the Maya Devi temple, the Tara Foundation’s (Germany) majestic Buddhist shrine, Japan’s amazing Peace Pagoda and the Thai Vihar.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Culture & Religion
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
52
CoverStory
Gosaikund
Make a pilgrimage trek to the holy lake region with his trident to obtain water to quench his thirst after having swallowed the Kalkut poison that threatened to destroy the world. The large rock in the center of the lake is said to be the remains of a Shiva shrine. The Brahmins change their sacred thread (Janai) on this day. Gosaikund remains a popular pilgrimage site not just for Hindus who frequent the site on the full moon day - Shrawan Purnima but also for trekking enthusiasts who are drawn to see the serene lake. It is at a two to three day trekking distance from Dhunche.
Not to miss: The Gosainkund basin in the Langtang region has around twelve lakes. The three main lakes -Gosainkund, Bhairavkund and Saraswatikund - are the most revered amongst Hindus, Buddhists and Bons. Most of the trekking trails in the LantangHelambu region pass the Gosainkund lake.
Trek to the lake region during Janai Purnima to witness a massive outpouring of devotion. Gosaikunda remains a popular pilgrimage site not just for Hindus who frequent the site on the full moon day - Shravan Purnima but also for trekking enthusiasts who are drawn to see the serene lake.
Lake Gosainkunda is at an altitude of 4360m and is the site for the annual full moon festival, which falls in JulyAugust. Hindus go for a purifying dip in the lake’s sacred water and the shamans visit to initiate the novices into their fold. According to a Hindu legend, Lord Shiva created the lake by piercing the glacier
Muktinath
An amazing trekking destination and a popular pilgrimage site, Muktinath makes for a great escape.
Muktinath-Chumig Gyatsa is a sacred place for both Hindus and Tibetan Buddhists. At 3750m, about 18 kms northeast of Jomsom in the North Central part of Nepal and falling within the Annapurna Circuit, it is also a popular trekking destination. Muktinath is a great example of how two religions can share the same holy spot with mutual respect and harmony.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Muktinath (the provider of salvation) is a holy site that thousands of devotees flock to for attaining the much sought after moksha. Lord Vishnu is supposed to have gotten Moksha here thus the name Muktinath or Lord of Salvation. Hindus call it Muktichhetra (place of salvation). Many Shaligrams found here are considered by Hindus as avatars of Lord Vishnu and thus fit for worship. Similarly, Buddhists call this valley the Chumig Gyatsa (place of a 108 waterspouts). It is believed that Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambha) the scholar-founder of Tibetan Buddhism, once meditated and gained lifetime achievement of spiritual knowledge here while on his way to Tibet in the 12th century. The trip to Muktinath can be divided
into two parts; going to Jomsom from Kathmandu and then to Muktinath from Jomsom. From Kathmandu you can take a bus to Pokhara and then another to Jomsom from there or once in Pokhara you can trek to Jomsom (6 days). Once in Jomsom you can walk to Kagbeni, then Jhargot and finally reach Muktinath in about 5-7 hours total.
Not to miss:
The historically and culturally unique Jomsom area, a purifying bath under the 108 water sprouts, rugged yet tranquil trekking trails, Shaigrams found in the area make for a great souvenir.
53
Janakpur
Birthplace of Sita, wife of Lord Rama from the Hindu epic Ramayana, the place is full of historical sites. Janakpur, the capital of ancient Mithila culture is famous as the birthplace of Sita – an incarnation of Goddess Lakshmi. It is believed that Lord Ram and Sita met here for the first time, fell in love and got married. A temple in Janakpurdham known as the Janaki Mandir dedicated to Sita is the prime attraction of this region. Nearby is Dhanushadham, a historical and religious site, its reference dating back to the great Hindu epic Ramayana. This is supposedly the site where broken remains of the divine Shiva bow that Ram broke to obtain Sita’s hand for marriage fell. A fossilized fragment of the broken piece is still believed to be seen and is worshipped by devotees.
known as Janaki. A rare blend of Mughal and Rajput architecture, the temple is the first and only example of its kind in Nepal. Dhanusha Mandir in Dhanushadham is a historical temple constructed in 1939 A.D. Dhanushadham falls on the resting place of Parikrama route that has special significance to Hindus. Dhanusha Forest near Dhanusha Temple is ideal for picnics or leisurely walks in the shade. The forest is lush with trees, bushes and a big pond. Parashuram Kunda previously known as Janak Sarobar holds historical as well as cultural significance. It is believed to be the pond where Rishi Parashuram bathed to quell his anger after his confrontation with Ram over breaking of the sacred bow.
Janaki Mandir - also known as Naulakha Mandir - is dedicated to Sita who is also
Janakpur is a 10-hour drive from Kathmandu. A flight to Janakpur takes 40
minutes. Public transportation is available to Dhanushadham from the city area. Luxury hotels to budget accommodation and food facilities are available in Janakpur city. Dharmashalas are also available for pilgrims in Dhanushadham. The best time to visit the area is between October and March.
Not to miss:
The historically fabulous Janaki temple, the Dhanusha temple, Dhanushadham, a historical and religious site – site of Lord Ram and Sita’s marriage.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
54
CoverStory
International Getaways Bali
A small tropical Indonesian island, Bali is a magical, romantic place, filled with dense tropical jungles, long sandy beaches, warm blue waters and friendly people who do not just have a culture but also actually live it. Bali is the main tourist destination in Indonesia, and after just one visit, you can see why.
what to do A must for any romantic visit to Bali is to watch the Sunsets. Locals and tourists take time each evening to watch the sunset, and it is not too hard to find a nice spot on the beach in order to enjoy a private moment. In the South, Seminyak Beach offers some of the best spots for viewing the sun disappear over the Indian Ocean. Tanah Lot, one of the most popular places of interest in Bali, is located on the coast of West Bali, at the village of Beraban in the Tabanan Regency. The temple Pura Tanah Lot, beautiful in its construction, has a dramatic oceanfront location and is one of the main temples in the worship of Balinese gods.
Where / what to eat Bali’s cooking is as much of a delight as its sunsets. Your lines will work better on a full stomach. Paul’s Place is a romantic,
dubai
Accommodations The seemingly endless spectrum of holiday options in Bali indirectly translates to a vast assortment of accommodations. Family hotels with recreational facilities for children, first-class resort properties, secluded villas
what to do The Wild Wadi Water Park offers families an entire afternoon of thrills and water activities. This “hidden lagoon” features everything from waterfalls and soaring cliffs to swimming holes, a tidal pool and scores of waterslides. How can a trip to Dubai be complete without seeing the spectacular Burj Al Arab - designed to resemble the graceful sails of an Arabian dhow. The building soars to a height of three hundred and twenty one meters, dominating the Dubai coastline.
Lounge around on an exquisite beach full of white sands for as far as you can see. Watch the waves crash in an ocean so blue it clears your mind. Get pampered at luxurious resorts and bump into your favorite celebrity. Shop in humongous malls that carry every luxury brand you know of. Sounds like a good time? Head towards Dubai, play ground of the rich and famous and the fastest growing city in the world. OCTOBER 2010
gastronomic hangout, a rambling lifestyle village and social gathering place, complemented by a chic boutique and the Meng Spa. Dine at La Lucciola, a romantic Italian beachfront restaurant along a deserted stretch of Seminyak Beach, with memorable views of the Indian Ocean.
TIMES
Seawings is a spectacular way of seeing Dubai’s majestic attractions from a Cessna Seaplane flight. A must is a trip to the Dubai Museum housed in the Al Faheidi Fort, which dates back to the early 19th century. The museum has an impressive collection of military and cultural artifacts.
with private pools and low-end guesthouses cover every preference, need and budget. One common characteristic is the attention to outdoor areas and beautifully landscaped gardens, which even the smallest and cheapest establishments take pride in.
How to get there & around Denpasar International Airport at Bali is a small but beautiful airport. Flights from Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, Melbourne & Sydney arrive here. Taxis offer the quickest and cheapest way of travel around Bali.
what to eat Dubai offers a diverse range of cuisine as its population constitutes a heavy mix of foreign visitors and local population. The local cuisine is indeed the best from the Arab world. “Stuffed Camel” is one of the prominent items in the weddings of Sheikhs and their family members. For something a little smaller, try some popular Iranian cuisine.
Accommodations Dubai is home to some of the world’s most luxurious beachfront hotels and resorts. Staying there however will burn a huge hole in your pocket. Cheaper, not too shabby accommodation is available too. Hook up with a local guide to get a great deal.
How to get there & around There are direct flights from Kathmandu’s TIA to Dubai. Holiday season might see these flights being booked to capacity so book early.
55
Mauritius
singapore
Mauritius is a fascinating, world-in-one-island, slice of paradise. While in many destinations famed for cobalt-blue seas, white sandy beaches and luxury hotels, you may eventually find yourself wishing for something to do besides sunbathing and swimming, it’s often hard to know what to do next in Mauritius.
The Republic of Singapore is an island country off the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula. A city-state, Singapore is the world’s fourth leading financial centre and a cosmopolitan city, playing a key role in international trade and finance.
what to do The smells, noises and bustle of the mercantile capital Port Louis, Africa’s wealthiest city, are never far away, while the busy garment markets in the Central Plateau towns of Quatre Bornes and Curepipe and Black River Gorges National Park’s dramatic virgin forests give away the lie about Mauritius being just another beach destination. Add to this the rousing beat of séga music and the infectious party spirit of the locals, and you have yourself a holiday of a life time.
Diving is a major activity in Maritius with many providers. Royal Botanical Gardens of Pamplemousses - the island’s premier attraction - is located in the northeast part of the island seven miles from Port Louis - 60 acres of flowers, fruit trees, spice gardens and much more. The Chamarel Falls are a beautiful 300-foot tall waterfall located near Black River National Park in the southeastern part of Mauritius.
dishes you have back home, try something new for a change and see if it suits your palette.
visiting spots like the Blue Bay Marine Park and le Val Nature Park. When you move north, you can tackle the West Coast, like Flic en Flac and the Black River Gorges.
How to get there & around Although no direct flights are available from Nepal, many airlines operate connecting flights to Mauritius. The best way to get around here is to rent a car. Many tourists recommend just hopping
Hawker centers and food courts, with dozens of individual stalls each selling different things, are your best option for sampling a variety of cheap, delicious local food. For seafood, head on to the East Coast Seafood Centre,
Accommodations
Accommodations A good idea is to stay in two different places; perhaps the first five days in Blue Bay and five days after in the North-West. When in Blue Bay, tackle the southern
For a bit of history, head over to the Hua Song Museum. The museum details the inspiring stories of Chinese immigrants and documents some wellknown individuals. For a more laidback time, Sentosa Island should be your choice. Known as a resort getaway, Sentosa (Malay for peace and tranquility) has plenty to recommend and is one of Singapore’s most popular destinations.
A unique attraction, Snow City is just what it sounds like it might be; a 3000 sq. m. indoor winter fun center. When the humidity is 90% and the temperature hits the 30°C mark there is no better place to be. Linking Marina Bay to Marina Centre, the Helix Bridge, is set to become Singapore’s next landmark. Located beside the Benjamin Sheares Bridge, it was officially opened on 24 April 2010 and is the world’s first curved bridge.
what/ where to eat
what to eat The place is popular for it’s amazing Chinese, Indian, French and African cuisine. But don’t stick with the familiar Indian
what to do
on one of the timely, local buses which have well planned out stops. A great idea is to hire a local guide who will take care of things. Or just DIY!
One of the best budget hotels in Singapore is Hotel 81. If you want something cheap which has close access to the city, then Hotel 81 is a great choice. It’s also right next to Chinatown and has very nicely
where over a dozen restaurants serve up fresh fish. Everything from traditional French and Italian to modern Asian and Australian is available in the more upscale range.
furnished rooms. If you’re looking for something a little more up market, then the Grand Copthone Waterfront might be a good place to consider.
How to get there & around A Kathmandu to Singapore flight is merely 4 hours 20 minutes. Getting around Singapore is easy, as the island is small and the infrastructure is very well developed. Many of the places
of interest are within walking distance of each other, and the best way to see them is on foot. Taking a cab should be your last resort, as it is more costly than the MRT and the bus. TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
56
CoverStory
THAILAND
Thailand is many things to many people, but above all, it is a place of romance. Made popular by shoppers going crazy in Bangkok’s malls and night markets, it has something on offer for every kind of vacationer. From crazy rave parties and amazing beaches to the food and the shopping, Thailand is definitely a getaway to write how about.
what to do
Where / what to eat
Run on the beaches in Phuket. An island in the Andaman Sea, it is idyllic, has long sandy beaches (some with dunes), warm water and excellent snorkeling and scuba diving off Koh Similan. Koh Samui is the kingdom’s second largest island after Phuket. Relatively unknown for years, this sun lover’s paradise has now attained international standards of service and accommodation. For less sand and more city, head to Chiang Mai. It would be difficult to find a city that reflects more of the country’s diverse cultural heritage and modern aspirations than this. Bangkok, popular for the shopping and the nightlife and the food has good reason for people to sing its praises when they’re back from a trip. While here, check out the amazing Grand Palace, the popular floating market and Jim Thompson’s house.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Thailand is a foodie’s delight! You never need to go too far to find what you had no idea was waiting for you. For the most part, the food is delicious, exotic, and prepared with a wonderful array of fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass, sweet basil, ginger, garlic and, of course, lots of chili. What’s not to miss? Tom Yung Goong or Spicy Shrimp Soup- a bold, refreshing blend of fragrant lemongrass, chilli, galangal and lime leaves. Don’t miss the Pad Thai - the default international Thai dish. Dropped in a searing hot wok, fistfuls of small, thin or wide noodles (you choose) do a steamy minute-long dance alongside crunchy bean sprouts, onion and egg, before disembarking for the nearest plate.
Accommodations For the budget traveler, Hua Lamphong will be ideal. Subway and buses make your trip easy to go anywhere in Bangkok with culture, historic places on the left and modern life with shopping malls and night activities on the right. Check in to the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok for an upscale experience. Traditional Thai architecture, hand-painted silk ceilings, intricate artwork, an impressively scaled lobby and glorious gardens – the hotel offers exquisite accommodations and gracious hospitality.
How to get there & around There are many ways to get around Thailand. Although most travelers choose to fly between the major tourist centers of Bangkok, the North and South, there’s something to be said for the alternatives. The state railway operates the inter-city trains throughout Thailand. It can be an amazingly cheap way to get around the country, if you have the time. Thailand has an extensive network of inter-city buses. Bus service is available in two classes. Second class is not air conditioned, while first class services have air conditioning, and often much more.
57
Sail Away
Star Cruises’ Malaysian Experience
The cruise to Malaysia is recommended for Nepali tourists with a great value for money package and for being at a short distance from here; perfect for a short getaway! Star Cruises, together with NCL, is the third largest cruise operator in the world that owns a combined fleet of 18 ships cruising to over 200 destinations, offering approximately 35,000 lower berths. With a freestyle cruising, you can indulge in any of the extensive variety of sumptuous cuisine and activities you like, whenever you like or do nothing at all. The cruise also provides various entertainment, sports and other activities so that your time onboard does not have a single dull moment. The cruise operator also won the Travel and Tourism Fair India‘s The Most Exclusive Leisure product Award for 2010 as well as TTG China Travel Awards’ Best Cruise Operator Award in 2009. The cruise to Malaysia is recommended
for Nepali tourists with a great value for money package and for being at a short distance from here; perfect for a short getaway! From the Star Cruises terminal in Port Klang, head out to Kuala Lumpur. The capital of Malaysia, it is a bustling metropolis that uniquely blends the traditional and modern and is home to the Petronas Twin Towers – the tallest twin towers in the world. Next up is Langkawi Island, an island of myths and legends. Discover Langkawi’s pristine beaches, magical islands and mysterious mangroves. Delve into the local legends about the virtuous Mahsuri, the Seven Wells Waterfalls where fairies bathe and the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden.
It’s off to Penang then, dubbed the “Pearl of the Orient”. Penang’s mouth-watering delights, in particular, the hawker fare, is a culinary experience not to be missed.The cruise then takes you to the ancient Dutch trading port of Malacca, whose community and cultural heritage has been shaped by centuries of foreign influence. Finally, Redang Island or ‘Pulau Redang’ is one of the most captivating islands in Malaysia. Visitors to this island will be greeted by crystal-clear blue waters, perfect to discover some of the most beautiful corals and witness a world of spectacular seascapes of colorful fishes as you go diving and snorkelling.
So whether you scream out aloud, as you fling yourself towards a raging river or end up having a cold one on a boat in the middle of a gorgeous lake, make the most of this holiday season; make it count.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
CoverStory
www.traveltimes-mag.com
58
hEALTHTIMES
Gender Issues & Reproductive & Sexual Health while Traveling A trek is often a trip back in time to a community and region living a more simple and uncluttered lifestyle. Most hill and mountain communities or communities in other regions in developing nations are traditional. In the Himalayas, there are a whole range of religions and belief systems ranging from Buddhism in Tibet and Bhutan to Buddhism and Hinduism in Nepal, Hinduism in large parts of the Indian Himalayas and Islam as we go further west. The majority of trekkers to these regions are from developed economies and in these countries over the last two centuries the concept of body image and dress codes have changed a lot.
What to wear while trekking or traveling in the Himalayas Most Himalayan communities are quite conservative and body exposure is not readily accepted. Many trekking books, magazines and even the disembarkation card to Nepal mention ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ for trekkers and travelers. The major one is to limit body exposure. An attire recommended by most travel writers is the ‘Salwar Kameez (and its variations in different countries like the Daura Saruwal in Nepal). It is comfortable, loose enough and covers the body respectably for both genders. It may be especially suitable attire for women as in some remote communities women wearing pants may not be considered as women leading to problems of gender identity. Personally, I find a loose fitting white tshirt and loose fitting cotton pants excellent trekking attire.
Gender Many traditional societies have well defined gender roles for men and women based on religion, tradition and culture. Buddhist cultures may allow more freedom and opportunities for women. Many authors recommend women trekkers to take their cue about culturally appropriate and sensitive behavior from how females of the particular community conduct themselves. The same is also true for men and certain behavior may be looked down upon. As trekkers are their source of income, hosts may not say anything to displease their guests but trekkers have a greater chance of being accepted if they behave suitably.
Women’s health concerns Urinary tract infections
Urinary tract infections (UTI) are more common in women mainly because of the short length of the female urethra (the passage for urine). Bacteria can invade the tract from the vagina. While trekking it is difficult to mainOCTOBER 2010
TIMES
ommend them to carry antifungal creams or suppositories (a tablet which can be inserted into the vagina).
Pregnancy Pregnant women are recommended to not travel to high altitudes (above 3500 m) as effects of altitude on the fetus are not known. Communities residing at high altitudes since generations deliver normal babies but this is the result of a long period of adaptation on the part of the mother and the fetus. Also traveling along rough roads and rough trails can induce a miscarriage.
tain personal hygiene therefore increasing risks of infection. UTI symptoms are fever, a burning sensation while urinating, and even blood in the urine. Sexual intercourse after a period of abstinence can cause traumatriggering UTI. Drinking plenty of water will help dilute and flush out the organisms by maintaining good urine flow. Antibiotics like cotrimoxazole, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin and amoxicillin can be taken. In many areas, bacteria have become resistant to these organisms due to a variety of reasons. Make sure you complete the course of treatment (taking drugs for at least five days, preferably seven) to reduce the risk of bugs developing resistance and recurrence of infection. UTI can also occur in males though less frequently than in the female.
Use of oral contraceptives
Amenorrhea
N. gonorrheae (the organism causing gonorrhea) in many areas is becoming resistant to penicillin the main drug. Newer medicines may be required making the disease difficult and more expensive to cure. Antiretroviral drugs (used against HIV/AIDS) do not cure the disease but only stop the division of the virus, and reduce the symptoms. These are expensive and treatment regimens and monitoring required is complex and expensive.
Amenorrhea means absence of normal menstrual bleeding or periods. International travelers zip through different time zones throwing the body’s biological clock out of gear. Trekking is a physically strenuous and demanding activity and many treks go to and spend time at high altitude. All this may cause delayed or absent periods. The only worry would be possible pregnancy. Periods tend to resume with a lower level of activity and the first period may be heavy. Sanitary napkins are increasingly available in major towns and shops in the hills and definitely in the valley bazaars.
Vaginitis Vaginitis or inflammation of the vagina is commonly caused by overgrowth of yeast (most commonly candida). Use of antibiotics which kill the resident bacterial flora of the vagina may allow yeast to colonize and grow. Pain, irritation and a whitish discharge from the vagina are common. Many authorities consider this a common problem among women travelers and rec-
Oral contraceptives (the pill) slightly increases the risk of blood clots in women. The risk is slight and the benefits more, so current recommendations are for women on the pill to continue taking it.
Sexually transmitted diseases HIV/AIDS and gonorrhea are two major problems. Syphilis and other sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) can also occur. According to Lonely Planet, many people consider travel time as not a part of their ‘real time’. People engage in sexual practices and behaviors, which they refrain from during the rest of the year. Sex with prostitutes (both male and female), unprotected intercourse and sex with locals may prove life threatening.
Needles used for tattooing, blood transfusions and improperly sterilized injection needles can spread HIV/AIDS and hepatitis B. Get your tattoo done only from proper facilities and insist on disposable injection needles. Blood is routinely tested for common disease causing organisms before transfusion in most countries. Taking care of gender issues will bring you closer to your hosts while a few simple precautions about sexual and reproductive health will ensure you stay healthy and take back sweet memories of your holiday to your workday world!
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
59
www.traveltimes-mag.com
60
PEOPLE&CULTURE
Pilgrims dip in the bracing waters of Gosaikund on Janai Purnima, while others stream upwards to Suryakund and the source of the Trishuli River.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
61
Challenging the Baba A High-Altitude Pilgrim Words / Photos: Charlie Das Udasin
Guru-ji’s face explodes with pride as I tell him I wish to go on the fullmoon pilgrimage of Janai Purnima. To Gosaikund, a 4,380m high lake. It is to be my first sadhana or mission as a baba without him. Like a chick taking it’s first flight. But this is nothing compared to my elderly and cantankerous, Mata-ji’s (spiritual mother) glow. I know what she is thinking: thank Godawan—he’s not a stoner baba, sitting, sleeping and smoking chillums!
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
PEOPLE&CULTURE
www.traveltimes-mag.com
62
PEOPLE&CULTURE
1
1. A temple to Lord Hannuman, the representation of selfless devotion, perched next to Gosaikund 2. Above Lauray Vinayak the pilgrims thicken. 3. Inside the business savvy Gurungs’ tent, Gosaikund.
Janai Purnima comes in August, during the rainy monsoon. Sitting on the bus’s roof, wrapping myself in my orange shawl, I smile as rain falls. Only seven more hours I think, bumping along the mountain road into the Langtang Valley. Calming my mind, I repeat Jai Gosaikund Mahadev, letting him (Lord Shiva) know I am enroute. This is a real pilgrimage, one of the world’s toughest and dangerous, not some fancy trek. By evening, I reach a washed-out mountain road covered by landslides in Rasuwa District.
What do You Mean ?
I laugh, asking if he also charges Indian sadhus. Soldiers who have gathered, snigger at my impertinence. I press home my point: a thousand rupees is not possible Sir, I say with conviction. I’m on a sadhana. He asks where to? Gosaikund of course. With soldiers hooked, watching, he cedes the point, giving me a four day permit. Dhanyabad! He has me register in case of an accident. Gladly having won the battle, I sign on the line. Outside, the Dahals are waiting.
I press on for Dhunche town, followed by two Dahals (Brahmins), one short and scrawny, another tall and plump. Both are teachers from Kathmandu, immaculatly clean in appearance—both are totally unprepared for what lies ahead.
Along mainstreet, at 1,764m, pilgrimage clutter abounds: coconuts, tika, rice, plastic sheeting and umbrellas. I take some plastic, certain I’ll need it. We move fast, crossing the Trishuli River. It’s all uphill now. I’m glad; getting a start on
Water rushes around my ankles. A fearful man helps pilgrims cross. Nobody wants to be left behind; everyone demands taking darshan (spiritual-wash), meeting Lord Shiva to receive his mighty blessings. High caste Brahmins and Chettris make the annual change of their sacred thread, the janai, here.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
An army checkpost approaches, someone shouts out that I’m to register, as a tourist. I try explaining that I’m a Sadhu, but without success. I go deal with the Langtang National Park’s clerk inside his cramped office. He demands a thousand rupees. I say it’s not possible: Ma sadhu ho. He radiates disbelief, looking at this foreigner in sadhu’s robes. I produce my offical sadhu identity card. He is shocked. He now complains it’s in Hindi. I ask him what he means; it clearly states that my address and Guru-ji are Nepali. He repeats: give me a thousand rupees.
63
my game of cat and mouse with that great nemesis: altitude. Every few hundred meters sees a plastic shelter where milk powder tea, food and lodgings are available; these are tended to by buisness savvy Gurungs. It’s pilgrimage time; they intend on making their year’s money. Darkness begins descending, but the Dahals wish to continue. I stop at the next shelter, settling down. Rolling a cigarette, I ask for hot water for my thermos, popping in a teabag. The tent quickly fills with pilgrims, some of whom think raksi will help them with the cold, I choose another cigarrette.
2 3
The pilgrims move by 4 a.m.; I sleep-on, starting slowly. There’s nowhere to bathe, one of my most important daily routines. Later, sitting on the trail, I meet two brothers with chiseled faces, sporting neat moustaches and almost identical features. They’re Bahuns (the highest priestly caste) from Kakani, one in his 20’s, the other about 30, wearing simple pants, t-shirts and bandanas over tidy haircuts. They’re waiting for a friend, so we share a chillum. Compared to the Dahals, these guys are prepared; strong, lean and ready. They’ll be topside today. They plan to sleep at Gosaikund Mahadev Temple and wash first thing tomorrow. After Deorali village comes a ravine full of Shiva lingams (stone phalluses) built upright, one stone on top of another, like little sky-scrappers; we make one each. Lingams are scattered everywhere; one of the many symbolic acts that pilgrims perform here.
The path beneath them, strewn with countless pilgrims, turns into a quagmire. An old man, his face kind and soft, sporting a beard and rudraksha beads (Shiva beads) greets me with his sonin-law. Their air tells me they are Brahmins. Coming from Pokhara, they quest for blessings also. They look me up and down before we move together.
Moving On Up
Soldiers and Shamans
The chillum helps me (personally), with altitude’s ill feeling. Dulling steps, and keeping my appetite; something altitude kills. Liquids and food are the best method for keeping fit. Hiking through thick clouds, shouts of Jai Boli Baba, Jai Gosaikund MahaDev ring out. I wonder where the area’s big-peaks are; lost in eerie murkiness. I stop to rest; the brothers look back, I say all’s okay. They disappear and I sip my tea, giving myself time to acclimatize. Passing a hotel (part of the Gosaikund/Sundarijal/Helambu trekking route), five soldiers come racing downhill, boots pounding. Four of them carry some poor soul on a stretcher, followed by their officer. A tough reminder about altitudes sickness, one I fear few will heed in their quest. Onwards forests abound, collossal memory-whispering trees, covered in bright mossy jackets.
How many millions of pilgrims through countless millenia have made this journey? There’s no shelter from the rains in sight; we just keep going.
In the morning, most pilgrims move on by 4 a.m., but I sleepon, starting slowly. There’s nowhere to bathe, one of the most important things a baba does daily.
Passing an army checkpost, I’m asked for my permit and ordered to register. I have none Sir, Ma sadhu ho. Oh, off runs the soldier, bringing back his officer, who looks surprised at this foreign, permittless baba. Showing him my Sadhu card, he’s shocked too as I recount my story. Undoubtedly, the authorities here have never encountered such a case. But without fuss, after signing his registry, I continue. Soon comes Chandan Bari and it’s full: pilgrims, savvy Gurungs, and Tamang jhankaris (shamans), with tantric drums. Some jhankaris sport long peacock feathers atop crowns, their drumming makes the air vibrate. I feel lucky to TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
PEOPLE&CULTURE
www.traveltimes-mag.com
64
1
Bhairavkund (the lake of Shiva in his angry form, Bhairav) appears—deep, dark, menacing like its namesake. Sighting the water brings me chills. 1. A jhankri enveloped in clouds making the air vibrate, above Chandan Bari 2. Muktinath Baba, Gyaneswhor Puri, stands above Saraswatikund as we descend day after the purnima 3. A pilgrim makes her way along the last stretch, just before Ganesh Tappu. The trail becomes narrow and slow 4. The elderly pilgrim from pokhara with his son-in-law, in Chandan Bari
see something so rare - so many jhankaris gathered together; a feeling of honored tradition. At the Nepal Army health post (about 3,500+ m.), medics give free check-ups. Feeling strong, we skip this. We’re at altitude now, above the trees. Only clouds greet me. It’s between me and Godawan now. Soon arriving at a small Buddhist stupa (shrine) with shelters, we stop. Our tent fills quickly to capacity. It’s the night before Janai Purnima; so we squeeze in more pilgrims. The full moon (purnima) is lost to foul weather.
The Big Day It’s 4 a.m. again. Gosaikund is an hour away. But, at 4,000m, I wish rest, sleeping on in the now empty tent. When I go outside, alone, I join faceless plastic shapes that move with purpose. Jhankari’s drums echo through clouds and rain. Saraswatikund (Saraswati: Goddess of Learning) comes into view. The brothers from Kakani appear, looking totally bouyant, mission completed, janais replaced and blessings received. Bhairavkund (Bhairav: Shiva in his angry form) arrives—deep, dark, menacing. Sighting the water brings chills, fear rises. Waters flowing from Gosaikund feed Bhairavkund, then Saraswatikund; like a necklace strung with white threads. I’m told there’s 108 such lakes here. Around a corner comes Ganesh Tappu; shrine to the remover of obstacles, bringer of luck— elephant-headed son of Shiva. Hundreds offer rice, tika and incense around me.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
2
3
Jai Gosaikund Mahadev! Pilgrims besiege Gosaikund, stripping, washing cold bodies in icy waters. Priests frantically tie blessings to the devout and replace Janais around the neck and chest of Brahmins and Chettris. I choose to wait. Gosaikund temple heaves as pilgrims’ make offerings to its mighty lingam—incense surrounds me. Two Indian babas are being loaded with prasads, gifts; smiling they ask which baba I am; Ma Udasin Baba Ho (Udasin Baba: a follower of Sikh tradition). Apprehension rises about bathing, fearing this white baba will... fail somehow. I begin shivering and light a chillum, sharing it around—no better source of heat for this cold scenario. A policeman passes, shouting Jai Bholi Baba! My baba’s mind says go bathe, but my body refuses. Foreign sensibilities override desires to take darshan. Other devotees look happily miserable, it doesn’t help. I see people flowing up to Suryakund (Sun Lake)—source of the Trishuli River. My tired body has no interest. I feel guilty, thinking of my Guru-ji saddened, my shivering inner voice lies, saying it’s okay. I move away. Inside a tent I find a Nepali Baba from Muktinath. We sit, talking, debating, him pointing that Shiva’s the supreme god whereas I see Shiva as the greatest teacher: MahaGuru. There is only one One, beyond titles. After a hot dinner we get blankets from our entrepreneurial hosts. Talking until sleep arrives, I agree to visit Muktinath this winter. I sleep, thinking of shame, fear and a wasted journey.
Down We Go Rising early, the lake is shrouded in white. Businessmen take down shelters, loading horses and bodies for the downward march. The weather’s strangely dry, feeling like Godawan’s rewarding us somehow. Taking a moment alone at empty Gosaikund; filled with yesterdays hopes and memories, I ask forgivness, and recite mantras. Bathing my feet, the water doesn’t seem so bad; a sadness rises. Drinking water, I wash my face and fill my thermos for Guru-ji. Muktinath Baba and I leave, crying Jai Gosaikund Mahadev! Before long I’m outside Dhunche, washing in brisk Trishuli waters—smile wider than before. Since the shame of not taking darshan, my resolve has strengthened, and has not shyed away since. A lesson through experience from the MahaGuru perhaps?
65
The Importance of Janai Purnima and Shiva MahaDev The fullmoon of Shravan (July/August), is known as Janai Purnima. A time when Brahmin and Chettri men change their sacred Janai thread. Worn since coming into manhood, it represents body, speech and mind, and strengthens these qualities. Gosaikund is one of the most auspicous places to bathe on this day, purifying the body. Above it, at Suryakund, (Sun lake) is where Lord Shiva struck the earth with his mighty trident (trishul). Holding a world-enveloping poison in his throat, he required a drink to cool it. This birthed the Trishuli River, sprouting forth from three holes in a cliff, feeding Gosaikund and becoming part Mother Ganga. When pious Hindus wash here, they see a form of Lord Shiva in the water, literally taking Darshan—meeting, seeing God.
Charlie Das is an Udasin Sadhu who tests his Guru’s patience. He praises the long line of who have gone before him. Contacted him at charliedasudasin@gmail.com.
4
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
PEOPLE&CULTURE
www.traveltimes-mag.com
66
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
67
www.traveltimes-mag.com
68
Destinationspotlight
Exploring new trekking trails from
Manakamana ~ to~ Gorakhkali Words Nisha Shakya Photos Suresh Maharjan
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Location of the Mankamana - Gorakhkali Trekking Trail
Located in the Gandaki zone of western Nepal, the trekking trail is above 1300 meters from sea level. The trekking route is situated about 95 kms from Kathmandu and is approximately 25 kms long.
69
Hiking paradise, natural beauty, historical values, religion and tradition come together at one place. Hiking and trekking have always been popular outdoor activities in Nepal. In a bid to promote tourism in Gorkha district, a new, 25 km, trekking trail - “Manakamana - Gorakhkali Cultural Tour”, starting from the famous Manakamana temple to the historic
Gorkha Durbar was inaugurated. The route covers the Manakamana temple, Biteni village, Bakreshwar Temple, Lakhan Cave, Tinmane, Bungkot (home to Nepal’s first martyr, Lakhan Thapa) before reaching Gorkha bazaar.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
destinationSpotlight
www.traveltimes-mag.com
70
destinationSpotlight
The Manakamana temple holds a deep significance for Hindu devotees as a deity that fulfills wishes. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
The beautiful trishuli river as seen from the cable car The only cable car service in Nepal Setting birds free is believed to bring peace to soul Temple of the divine Manakamana Devi Breathtaking beauty of nature from the temple Many souvenir shops surround the temple
2
1
3
4
5
6
Fulfill Your Wishes Situated in Kuringtar, the cable car is the first and only cable car of the country. It connects Kuringtar to the Manakamana temple and covers 2.8 kms. The 10 minutes scenic drive to the temple gives an enthralling experience.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
You will experience a spiritual feeling at the start of the trek from the Manakamana temple. A two and half hour drive to Kurintar and a 10-minute scenic, cable car ride will take you to the temple. The short ride on the cable car also gives you a chance to see the terrain you will soon be hiking through. Situated atop a 1300-meter hill, the temple itself overlooks the beautiful Trishuli River flowing to its south and Marshyangdi River to its west. The temple holds a deep significance for Hindu devotees as a deity that fulfills wishes. Thousands of Hindu devotees visit the temple each day to pay their homage to the goddess. Ani-
mal sacrifices are a common sight here. Manakamana Temple has a four-tiered pagoda style roof with the entrance facing southwest. The temple’s priests, who are 17th generation decedents of Lakhan Thapa, perform daily prayers and rituals early in the morning behind closed doors before allowing the public to enter. You can also find numerous souvenir shops in the temple premises. The temple is also a great viewing point for the deep valleys, terraced fields, rivers and panorama of the mountains.
71
2
1
3
4
Notice the quaint village homes, the ingenuousness in the people’s faces and the local culture, and fall in love with the raw beauty of the place. 1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
5
Trekking trails towards Biteni The entire vilage alongside the trail has an access to electronic medias Khachchar, a cross breed of horse, are widely used here for transporting people and other stuffs. Young boys and girls performing chudka naach Picture perfect Biteni village A local beauty at Biteni
6
An Authentic Nepali Village Biteni, a small picturesque village, is a half hour walk from the Manakamana temple. Often overlooked by most visitors, the short walk up to the village is quite picturesque. Orchards full of oranges and maize fields are common sights on the way to the village. The village is a Gurung and Magar settlement. The traditional houses, their lifestyle and their language seem like a museum that has come alive. Notice the quaint village homes, the ingenuousness in the people’s faces and the local culture, and fall in love with the raw beauty of the place. You can also enjoy the Chudka, a traditional dance performed by
mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to
www.eticketnepal.com
a group of young boys and girls playing a traditional musical instrument called the Khaijadi, made out of goatskin. The small settlement of around 150 families only steals the heart of anyone who once visits the rural community. Not only the people and the culture even the nature adds to the charm of the place. The tiny hidden paradise in Manakamana, Biteni carries high prospects for home-stay tourism. The rich culture of the place, the hospitality of the locals and the magical weather will definitely make tourists want to stay back a day or two.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
destinationSpotlight
www.traveltimes-mag.com
72
destinationSpotlight
2
3
1
5
4
6
The steep maize terraces tumbling down to the tiny villages will almost make you lose your way.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Traditionally cladded Magar girls at Kaule Bhangar A huge rock being idolized as a form of Shiva-Bakreswor Mahadev Through the maize field An amazing view of temple resting over an enormous rock. The first martyr of Nepal, Lakhan Thapa The Lakhan Thapa Magar cave Locals performing a traditional dance
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
7
Religion and Folklore
Historical Villages
Another noteworthy spot on the trail is the Bakreswor Mahadev temple, a religious point on the trail. Ascending from the backyard of the temple for a couple of hours will get you to this holy site, full of huge rocks erected and worshipped by locals. According to the Hindu holy book - ‘Swosthani Brata Katha’ the tongue of Sati Devi was apparently lost in this very site. It is believed that children who do not develop their speech can get back their ability to talk if they visit this site and pay homage to the deity. Another fascinating spot here is an enormous rock with a small temple atop it. Climbing the rock to get to the temple gives you an opportunity to witness a breathtaking view of the area.
Following the trail from the Lakhan Thapa cave will bring you to Tinmane. From the trail to the village, you can see the stone paved path, spellbounding natural beauty and the small, scattered settlements with their glistening roofs. This can be a good spot to take a break and enjoy some tea as you chitchat with the locals. The people and the environment add an old-world charm to this place.
A brief walk from here takes you to a historical site, the Lakhan Thapa cave; named such after the Lakhan Thapa whose descendents are the priests at the Manakamana temple. Legend has that in 17th century, during the reign of King Ram Shah in Gorkha, Lakhan Thapa, a great tantric left his stick of Bhimeswor Pati outside the cave and went inside but never came out. Since then the locals consider this place as a holy resting place. Locals believe that the cave leads to the Gorkha Durbar and that the stick Thapa left here grew into the tree that is near the site.
The trail then continues through the maize fields towards Bungkot. Free of settlements, the trail and the maize fields give one a feeling of traveling back in time. The steep maize terraces tumbling down to the tiny villages will almost make you lose your way. Stepping foot in Lakhan Thapa’s village should give you a taste of the history of the place. Thapa was brutally murdered for revolting against the autocratic rule of Rana era PM Jung Bahadur Rana. A statue of the Nepal’s first martyr and a community school are some of the sites you might want to go to while you are here.
The smoky atmosphere and the orange clad Sadhu babas in the premise of Gorkha Durbar gives the historical place a religious attraction.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
73
www.traveltimes-mag.com
74
destinationSpotlight
1
3
2
4
The west side of the The Historical Gorkha Durbar Gorkha) is popular for the reforms and developis perhaps the most historic hilltop town palace has a temple Gorkha ment brought by this very king. of the country and thus the Gorkha Durbar, at 3281 feet, makes for a great last stop on the trail. of Goddess Gorkhkali Overall, the Manakamana - Gorakhkali tour get to the top of the fort like hill, one will have and the famed cave of To is a cultural, historical and natural wonder of a to climb one thousand seven hundred steps. The trail. Its newness adds to its charm, as trails are fatigue is worth the view from the top though as Gorakhnath, said to still tranquil. A two-night-three-day trip should be one can see a spectacular view of the Himalayan be a powerful sage. range from here. enough to explore the area and come back home rejuvenated from the trek.
1. 2. 3. 4.
The historical Gorkha Durbar The stony step to the Palace Main entrance and the architecturally rich windows in the palace The place from where King Ram Shah handed out verdicts
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
The palace holds historical as well as religious significance. It is the birthplace of Shah king Prithivi Narayan Shah, the unifier of greater Nepal. Locals say the palace was built at such a height for the king to watch over his people. The west side of the palace has a temple of Goddess Gorkhkali and the famed cave of Gorakhnath, said to be a powerful sage. It is a place of religious significance for Hindus. You can visit king Ram Shah’s Chautara, the place from where he handed out verdicts. A popular saying in Nepali “Nyaya napaye Gorkha jaanu”, (if you are deprived of justice, go to
Gorkha Tourism (GT) and Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) had jointly organized ‘Field observation Trip’ of Gorkha to explore the newly developed Manakamana-Gorakhkali trekking trail. The places highlighting religious, cultural, natural and historical significance are specially proposed for the promotion of domestic tourism.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
75
www.traveltimes-mag.com
76 hotels&casinos
The Radisson Hotel k
a
t
h
m
a
A Great Mix
n
d
u
Text by Anish Tuladhar
The Radisson Hotel Kathmandu is conveniently located in Lazimpat, adjacent to the Royal Palace and within walking distance of local attractions, such as Durbar Marg and Thamel. The Radisson offers exceptional amenities, including a rooftop swimming pool, beauty parlor/barber shop, numerous on-site eateries and spacious rooms and suites that offer a level of comfort and style not found at other Kathmandu hotels. It also welcomes you to a style distinctly its own with a remarkable commitment to genuine hospitality and a “Yes I Can� philosophy.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
77
Accommodations
The Radisson Hotel Kathmandu offers 160 beautifully appointed rooms, including Superior Rooms, Deluxe Rooms, Club Rooms and Suites. Enjoy convenient amenities such as high-speed internet access, satellite television and automatic wake-up call service. For an extra touch of comfort and class, the hotel offers Club Rooms, which provide additional amenities and space for the discerning traveler. The Superior Rooms are tastefully furnished and provide stunning views of the surrounding mountains. These rooms feature comfortable beds, dropdown lights, a 21” television and a mini bar. Some Superior Rooms are designed with parquet floors, while others are beautifully carpeted. Deluxe Rooms at the Radisson Hotel Kathmandu are located on the second and third floors. These rooms include a stylish bathroom, comfortable sofas, flatscreen television, mini bar, beautiful parquet floors and all of the amenities of a Superior Room. Club Rooms are on exclusive executive floors and
provide warm and efficient service to the discerning business traveler seeking personalized hospitality and upgraded amenities. The hotel’s contemporary, chic Club Rooms offer guests the ultimate in convenience and comfort, providing complimentary access to the Club Lounge. Junior Suites are beautifully furnished with modern amenities and feature a king-sized bed, comfortable sofa and stylish black marble bathroom. The rooms’ large windows and full-length glass doors provide breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding mountains. Suites have a contemporary design and feature high ceilings, large windows and a separate sitting area attached to the master bedroom. Room amenities include an extra bathroom, separate toilet and two televisions. Mirrors and paintings hanging on the wall provide a blend of modern and traditional Nepalese culture.
Clockwise: • Suite Room • Deluxe Room • Superioe Room
For an extra touch of comfort and class, the hotel offers Club Rooms, which provide additional amenities and space for the discerning traveler.
Solution for all business functions and Seminars
Radisson’s meeting rooms are perfect for hosting events from corporate meetings to intimate family reunions. Choose from seven meeting rooms that can accommodate groups of up to 800 people in conference, theater and classroomstyle seating. Expert technicians provide modern audio/visual technology and a level of service.
Nepa Dhuku
Rara Hall
Gosainkund Hall
Phoksundo Hall
Board Room
At 4,400 sq. ft., Nepa Dhuku Hall is a versatile exhibit center perfect for large events including movable platform stages, rear projection screens, an adjoining pre-function room and a Waterfall Garden.
The 900 square-foot Rara Hall is ideal for small and moderately sized seminars, meetings, conferences or cocktail dinners. Rear projection screens, flip charts and white or soft boards are available.
Ideal for small seminars, meetings or conferences, Gosainkund offers rear projection screens, flip charts, white and/or soft boards. Catering is available for the 800 square-foot conference room.
At 270 square feet, Phoksundo Hall is perfect for cocktail dinners or meetings of 15 to 20 guests. Rear projection screens, flip charts, white and/or soft boards are offered are all available in the room.
This 22 square-foot room can be used as an “instant” meeting room for up to 12 guests. Catering is not available in the board room, but tea or coffee may be served if required.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
hotels&casinos
www.traveltimes-mag.com
78
hotels&casinos
Clockwise: • Rooftop Swimming Pool • Olive Garden • Lobby of the hotel • The Fun Cafe
Hanging out for food at the RAD
While the city is abundant with exotic restaurants, Radisson provides guests the opportunity to experience fine dining without ever leaving the hotel. The hotel offers a number of on-site restaurants, adding a level of comfort to your time in Kathmandu. Enjoy fine cuisine, casual dining, snacks and cocktails; all in the comfort of the Radisson.
The Fun Café (TFC) Enjoy cuisine from around the world complemented by a view of the spectacular Waterfall Garden. Radisson offers breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets, plus a la carte menu items for those who want something light.
The Corner Bar As an upscale bar that offers a large array of snacks and drinks, Radisson’s bar is one of the best in Kathmandu. A live band adds to the upbeat atmosphere. The Corner Bar is the ideal place to share a drink with friends.
Olive Garden Fine dining at Radisson’s Olive Garden is truly unique. Take a culinary journey with delicious Indian, Chinese and Italian dishes while enjoying your comfortable, elegant surroundings.
Splash Bar and Grill Splash is a poolside restaurant set on the 5th floor terrace of the Radisson Hotel Kathmandu. It provides guests with a panoramic view of the valley and the surrounding mountains. Snacks, lunch and dinner are served here.
The Pastry Shop Undoubtedly one of the best places for pastries in town, the Pastry Shop offers snacks, cappuccinos and homemade ice cream.
Room Service The Radisson Hotel Kathmandu offers 24hour, in-room dining with a wide selection of dishes.
Clark Hatch Fitness Center The Clark Hatch fitness Center is a wonderful area to relax, unwind and feel invigorated. With the latest Life Fitness equipment, the exercise room is a great place to get rid of stress after a long day of hard work. There is also a fully equipped health and recreation center with separate facilities for women and men like steam, sauna, and Jacuzzi. The center also boasts of an outdoor swimming pool on the fifth floor and offers various types of rejuvenating massages to pamper your senses. Entertainment Casino Rad provides 24-hour gaming fun for the thrill seekers. Beside the food and games, a variety of entertaining shows keep the guest enchanted.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
79
www.traveltimes-mag.com
80
Rec
å
mmended restaurants&B rs
Nepali
CHinese/ Japanese The Ghangri Café Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5528703
Café De Patan Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 4228833 samaya baji
D’ Square Café Mangalbazar, Patan Tel: 5545056
italian/ continental
Crumbed Prawn
Bhoe Chhen Newari Restaurant & Bar Basantarpur Tel: 2331028
Baithak BhabarMahal Revisited Tel: 4267346
Beijing Roast Duck Restaurant Jawalakhel, Patan Tel: 5547453
Dhokaima Café Patan Dhoka Tel: 5522113
Café Du Temple Patan Dhoka Square Tel: 5527127
Vishram Restaurant Basantapur Tel.2012127
layeku Restaurant Bhaktaour Tel. 4781104
Courtyard Restaurant & bar Kamaladi Tel: 4253056
Rice and Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel: 4251678
PIZZA
Mandarin Palace Babar Mahal Revisited Tel: 4212675
Road House Café Thamel Tel: 4426168, 5521755
Chopstix Kumaripati, Patan Tel: 5551118
Dan Ran Japanese Restaurant Pulchowk Tel: 5521027
Pizza Xpress Lazimpat Tel: 2161212
Hadock Dining & Bar Pulchowk Tel: 554631
TIAN rui Chinese Thapathali Tel.: 4243078
Fire and Ice Pizzeria Thamel Tel: 4250210
Bourbon Room Narayhitimarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4441703 green Olive Restaurant & sisha bar Chhetrapati, Ktm. Tel. : 4212730 La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel. : 4700612 Rum Doodle Thamel Tel.: 4701107
Chopstix
A good location, spacious area and good food; what else would you need in a restaurant? Blessed with all three, Chopstix stands out among other eateries in the area. Chopstix and the adjoining Tangerine bar is a well-known name among those who crave for delicious Chinese and Continental cuisines. Walking down the roads of Kumaripati, you may find many restaurants but Chopstix situated just next door to Yamaha showroom is one such place that serves the best Chinese delicacies. The soothing setting and interior of the place is one
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
of the reasons for Chopstix’s popularity. Smartly separated into dining and a spacious lounge area, the place gives you the option of lounging with your friends or enjoying a happy family dinner. Chopstix serves Chinese and Continental cuisine as the name of the restaurant itself hints at. Tantalizing dishes in their menu is the best reason people opt to visit Chopstix. A variety of mouth watering dishes will excite your taste buds as Chopstix has added some new dishes to its already popular menu.
Amongst the new additions, the must try items are Caribbean Chicken and Chicken stroganoff. Served with butter rice and tropical fruit, the Caribbean Chicken tastes tender and has a delightful Caribbean flavor while Chicken stroganoff, garnished with additional sliced pimentostuffed olives and reserved mushroom liquid makes an enjoyable meal. The next time you visit Chopstix make sure to taste few or all of the new delicacies.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
81
www.traveltimes-mag.com
82
Rec
Indian
å
mmended restaurants&B rs CAFE
MULTI
star restaurants VESPER CAFE Pulchowk Lalitpur Tel: 5548179
chicken biryani
Dhaba Restautant & Bar Thapathali Tel; 4100510 Tehzeeb Restaurant Durbarmarg Tel: 4233037 Bawarchi The restrobar Lazimpat Tel. 2150050
Cappuccino
Delicatessen Centre Café Durbar Marg Tel: 4221331 Imago Del Café Gallery Nag Pokhari Tel: 442464
sizzler
Lobsters’ Sherpa Mall, Durbar Marg Tel: 4231323, 4231437 Bhumi Restro Lounge Lazimpat Tel: 4412193
Jatra Thamel Tel: 4700043 lakhey restaurant and bar Durbarmarg, Ktm. Tel.: 4256606 MOODS Studio lounge Bluebird Mall, Tripureshwor Tel. : 4215740
Ezer Book Café Sanepa Tel: 5546578
The Factory Restaurant & Bar Thamel Tel: 4701185, 4701187
chapter 9 Jhamsikhel, lalitpur Tel.: 5525979
Himalayan Java Thamel Tel: 4253056
Bronco billy Harihar bhawan Tel. 5526212
BUZZ Baluwatar, Ktm. Tel.: 4429903
Ghar-e-kabab durbarmarg Tel.: 4221711
The Bakery Café Kathmandu Tel: 4464438
Café Cheeno Patan Tel. 012210423
NEW YORK CAFE Thapathali, Ktm. Tel.: 4101532
Red Dingo Jawalakhel, lalitpur Tel.: 01-6914930
Soaltee Crowne Plaza Soaltee Mode, Ktm. Tel. 4273999 Kakori Speciality: Indian Alfresco Speciality: Italian Garden Terrace Speciality: Café Rodi Bar Speciality: Bar China Garden Speciality: Chinese Cuisine
Radission Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4411818 The Olive Garden Speciality: Italian The Corner Bar Speciality: Bar TFC Speciality: Continental
Annapurna del’ hotel Durbarmarg, Ktm Tel. 4221711 The Coffee Shop speciality. Café Ghar-E- Kabab speciality. Indian Cuisine Arniko Room speciality. Chinese Cuisine
Hyatt Regency Boudha,Ktm Tel. 4491234 Rox Restaurant Speciality: Multi The Café Speciality: Café
Shangri-la Lazimpat, Ktm Tel. 4412999 Sambala Garden Speciality: Café Lost Horizon Bar Speciality: Bar
Degaa Restro Lounge Recline in a cozy sofa, sip a drink of your choice and relishing the soothing music, share some gossip with your friends or spend a nice evening with your family. Such would be a short summary for the newly opened restro lounge decked out with mud and wood, “Degaa-restro lounge”. Located amidst the commercial area of Kumaripati, Degaa gives you a perfect ambiance to lounge for an evening or for a small get together. Situated on the third floor, it will be a pleasant surprise to find a traditional looking place inside such a formal edifice. The cosy setting of the space offers a warm welcome every time you visit. The interior of the restaurant is luring and relaxing. The mud-covered walls give a feel of being in a traditional place with the wooden ceiling and parquet floor completing the look. The lights hanging from the ceiling and the corner rhizome give a certain glow to the place. A small area, the reception, designed with chopped timber at the center of the lounge is an attention grabber. Every element of the interior, the curtains and the furniture, is made out of local material.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
The place is clearly separated into dining space and lounge. High seated tables and chairs with comfortable cushions, cleanly placed table post sets a nice mood for dinner while the comfortable sofas with matching comfy tables create a great lounging ambience. The restaurant serves every variety of Newari and Nepali food. The main course has typical Nepali/Newari dinner. The appetizer serves a rich variety of mouth-watering dishes such as Chatamari, Woh, Chhoyela,
different “sadeko” dishes amongst others. Samay baji is one of the tempting dishes on the menu here. All the food is served in graceful, brass crockery. The restaurant bar holds the interest of every guest. The 24 feet bar is stocked with world-class liquors and serves every type of drink. The simple yet elegantly adorned bar has a huge plasma TV in the center making it an ideal spot to catch up with some friends for a game of cricket or perhaps some soccer.
www.traveltimes-mag.com
84
ADVENTUREINTRO
Canyoning
Into the Unknown! Words Ang Sanu Lama | Photo Courtesy THE LAST RESORT
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
85
When was the last time you thoroughly appreciated the beauty and danger of nature? Most of us, either enclosed in office cubicles or wrapped up in schoolwork, have lost touch with her. A day or two of canyoning can surely remedy that. Canyoning - as the name suggests - means exploring canyons. Also known as canyoneering in the United States, kloofing in South Africa and river tracing in Japan, it involves navigating down fast flowing rivers through a combination of hiking, wading, abseiling, swimming, boulder hoping, rock-climbing and rappelling. The thrill and danger associated with it is perhaps the reason it is one of the fastest growing adventure sports in Europe. “The beauty of canyoning is that it not only gives you the rush of adrenaline, like most extreme adventure sports but it also provides you the chance to witness nature very closely,” said Chandra Ale, founder of Initiative Outdoor. Another factor for its growing popularity is that it does not require the level of fitness and skill required in other adventure sports such as rock climbing. So whether you are a beginner or a well-tried professional, you can find a canyoning route to match your ability. As fun and less strenuous as canyoning might appear, going down a mountainous stream is still no small feat. It requires the right equipment and expertise. Canyoning takes place in a group of four to six people with a minimum of two guides – one at the head and the other at the end of the group. The trip starts with a hike to the top of the canyon and a little training session on dry abseiling before you head down the river. Your guide must be fully aware of all the hazards that could occur in a canyoning trip and be well qualified in first aid. So get ready to get up close and personal with nature!
History The story of where and when canyon explorations first began is a bit contentious. However, it is safe to say that canyoning as a sport caught on in Europe in the 80’s and in America in the 90’s. Besides Europe and America, this sport has also gained popularity in Japan, Taiwan and New Zealand and is relatively new to Nepal. It was first introduced in the Bhote Koshi by Chandra Ale in 1998, while he was working for Borderlands Resort. Ale had learnt the sport while he was in Norway. Since 1998, the sport has been offered by a few other outdoor adventure companies too. Today there are more than 32 companies offering canyoning in Nepal. The Nepal Canyoning
AQs) ed Questions (F Frequently Ask
avoid May. You should When? een October and tw be o best ne do als is be g n in l ca Canyon Canyoning in Nepa ter gets too cold. wa e th as , on as ter se it during the win of flash floods. eather due to risks w d ba g rin du d avoide g in pots for canyonin Where? r canyoning. Hots fo y syangdi ad ar re M s e on th ny ca agi canyon in Sy e th , Nepal has over 30 ea ar i sh gest s in the Bhote Ko ably one of the lar Nepal are canyon u, Manang - prob Ph r Na in on ny ca u Valley and Lha Jy s in the world. on ny ca t es gh and hi provide . Some companies st be u How long? yo it su to night ps are designed usually with over The duration of tri or two-day trips e on er th ei e ar ch set packages whi n. io at od m acco $40-80 per it cost? it may range from d an , How much does se oo ch u the company yo r a two day trip. Costs depends on -150 per person fo 15 $1 d an p tri y da person for a one-
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
adventureintro
www.traveltimes-mag.com
86
adventureintro
Tips for your trip • It is best to take your own swimsuit to wear inside the wet suit, for added protection. • Wear closed toed shoes with grip for comfort and safety. • Take an extra pair of shoes to wear after canyoning. • Be mentally prepared to take on the adventure and have fun.
Association (NCA) was established in 2007 as a common platform for outdoor adventure trip organizers and individual canyoneers with the aim of developing the sport in Nepal as an adventure sport and an attractive tourism product. In the last three years, it has taken strides in training canyoneers, exploring new canyons and promoting canyoning in Nepal at national and international arenas.
Nepal in the Canyoning Radar “Nepal holds great possibilities in canyoning because of its natural beauty and topographical advantages over other countries, but it has not
yet been exploited to the extent possible,” opined Tilak Lama, Chairperson of NCA. Nepal’s majestic mountainous streams and the canyons they form provide ample challenges for canyoning enthusiasts around the world. Although Nepal’s entry in the global canyoning movement has been belated, we are catching up fast with the rest of the world. In April 2011, Nepal will be hosting the International Canyon Rendezvous. The event is an initiative of the NCA in the Marsyangdi Valley, which is en route the world famous Annapurna Himalayan Circuit trekking trail. Around 270 canyoneers are expected to participate.
Locations Top Canyoning y (three Bhotekoshi valle ly 100 kilometers lley, approximate Va i sh ko ote eers. Bh on e ny Th radise for ca the capital, is a pa m fro ) ive table dr no s e ur ho s. Some of th us range of canyon ro me nu a nglang s Pa er , off ola It , Galung Kh Khola, Handi Khola o mb Jo e ar es on he Khola. Khola and Bhulkut Khola, Kanglang Grade V2.A1 I, ly 3 hours Time approximate Grade V2.A1 I, Handi Khola: ly 4 hours Time approximate Grade V2.A2 II, Galung Khola: ly 6 hours Time approximate Grade V2.A2 II, Kabre Khola: ly 3 hrs 45 minutes Time approximate Grade V2.A3. III, Fanfung Khola: ly 6 hrs 30 minutes Time approximate
Jombo Khola:
y Marsyangdi valle in the Marsyangdi g can also be done in on ny ca t ea gr Some Valley. Grade V3.A1 I, Bul Bule Khola: ly 2 hours Time approximate Grade V4.A3 II, tes Raindu Khola: ly 3 hours 45 minu Time approximate Grade V2.A1 I, tes Kabindra Khola: ly 1 hour 30 minu Time approximate Grade V4.A3 II, tes Sansapu Khola: ly 7 hours 30 minu Time approximate Grade V5.A4 IV, tes Chipla Khola: ly 6 hours 30 minu Time approximate Grade V2.A1 I, tes Gopte Khola: ly 6 hours 30 minu Time approximate Grade V6.A3 III, Syange Khola: ly 7 hours Time approximate , IV Grade V6.A5 tes Jagat Khola: ly 9 hours 30 minu Time approximate Grade V4.A4 IV, Tal Khola: ly 5 hours Time approximate
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
We wish all our valued customers and well wishers a very prosperous and joyous Dashain.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
87
www.traveltimes-mag.com
88
globaltreasure
The Not-So
Forbidden City It’s an irony to refer to one of China’s most beckoning cities as the Forbidden City, and yet that might be where half the allure hides. Nestled in the heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum in China is known to quite a temptation for any traveler. Words Sradda Thapa
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
89
Common & useful phrases in Mandarin Hello How are you? [Good/Okay/Bad] Bye Thank you [You’re welcome] Excuse me (sorry) [No Problem] Excuse me (I have a question) Where’s the toilet?
níhăo níhăoma? [wŏ hén hăo/hái kéyĭ/wŏ bù hăo] zàijiàn xièxiè [búkèqi] duìbúqì [méiguānxì] qĭngwèn cèsuŏ zài nálĭ?
How much? (money) This That Shall we go?/Let’s go I don’t understand (what you said) Can you speak English? Please give me a pair of chopsticks. Please give me two bottles of beer.
duōshăo qián? zhèige nèige zŏuba? wŏ tīngbùdŏng nĭ huì jiăng yīngwén ma? qĭng géi wŏ yī shuāng kuàizi qĭng géi wŏ liăng píng píjĭu
BEIJING Designed to stand tall in the center of the ancient city of Beijing, the Forbidden City sits enclosed within a walled area, within Beijing - the Imperial City. The Middle Kingdom in being fascinated with centrality and symmetry even write their country’s name so as to illustrate that China is in the middle of the world. The Chinese character for their homeland is meant to symbolize how they lie at the heart of the world. The character is a rectangle (that represents the world) with a line crossed vertically down the middle (to
indicate China’s centrality). The heart of China is, of course, its capital city, Beijing. Prior to bearing the pride as the capital of the new China, it was also the “capital in the north” to some of China’s most formidable dynasties – namely the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. Beijing is perhaps one of the
world’s most populous cities in the world with over 11 million residents. Beijing however, knows how to handle the masses. Despite the massive population, there is little chaos. From feasting upon the succulent Roast Duck and Mutton Hot Pot to shopping for jade works and embroidered silk and being mesmerized by Jingzu Theater – a genre specific to Beijing, the
city has it all. However, if the hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan China wears you, a soothing and rejuvenating option awaits you in the heart of Beijing Tucked away quietly in the capital is the Forbidden City. A short trip, you can get there taking a number of buses or ride the metro and exit at Tian’anmenxi!
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Globaltreasure
www.traveltimes-mag.com
90
Globaltreasure
Forbidden City
Interesting Facts • The Chinese considered 9 to be a lucky number. Thus, once the number of rooms in the Forbidden City was 9,999. • The Forbidden City is ringed by a 10 meter (33 foot) high protective wall and defense was strengthened by a moat as wide as a river. • The Forbidden City occupies 720,000 square meters of land, which is equivalent to twenty plus football grounds. • Puyi, the last resident emperor of the Forbidden City, was permanently evicted in 1924. He was depicted in Bertolucci’s 1987 A. D epic movie ‘The Last Emperor’.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Designed to stand tall in the center of the ancient city of Beijing, the Forbidden City sits enclosed within a walled area, within Beijing - the Imperial City.
The Forbidden City is one of the most complex but magnificent palaces in China but one of only five world-famous palaces including the Palace of Versailles in France, Buckingham Palace in England, the White House in the U.S. and the Kremlin in Russia. Dating back to the Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty, construction commenced in1406 and was completed 15 years later in 1420 under the Ming Dynasty. Over a million laborers worked to complete it the palace that has housed 24 of the Ming and Qing dynasties emperors. The last emperor and his family were permitted to reside in the Inner Courts of the palace grounds after the republican revolution of 1911. However, in 1924 the last em-
peror, Pu Yi was evicted from the residence. It is said that Pu Yi was the last to sit on the “Dragon Throne” in 1909 when he was just three years old. Dethroned at age five, he was an emperor very briefly, even if in actuality he was just the puppet ruler, of a portion of China that had been annexed by Japan. Pu Yi died in 1967 and ended the legacy of dynasties and empires in China. Since 1925, the palace has not housed royalty and has been made the Palace Museum for the public. In 1933, China was forced to evacuate and secure the treasures in the Forbidden City when Japan invaded. A portion of the collection was returned after World War II, but some were evacuated to Taiwan. The small portion was
made available for the public to view in 1965 as the valued possession of the National Palace Museum in Taipei. Still today, the meticulous preservation, antique adorned rooms and sheer glory of the Forbidden City and its natural treasures prevail. It is currently being administered by the Palace Museum, which is carrying out a sixteenyear restoration project to repair and restore all buildings in the Forbidden City to their pre1912 state. The Forbidden City will be able to double in size the number of tourists it hosts when renovations are completed in the year 2020. For very obvious reasons, the Forbidden City has been declared a World Heritage Site and boasts multiple largest or longest designs,
including that of the largest preserved ancient wood structure in the world. The entire city is enclosed with a 10m high wall that is 52 cm wide. The city is spread over 700,000 sq km. Each of the four sides of the walls has a gate. Tourists enter through the Meridian Gate (in the South) and exit through the Spiritual Valor Gate (in the North). At the entrance of the Meridian Gate, you can hire a guide or select an audio guide in multiple languages. It will cost a mere 40RM with a 100RMB deposit. Bags can also be checked in at the same gate. Gift shops and bookstores are aplenty. A souvenir shop is located at the Meridian Gate. The only Starbucks in the vicinity was removed in 2000.
91
Interesting Facts
Designed to stand tall in the center of the ancient city of Beijing, the Forbidden City sits enclosed within a walled area, within Beijing - the Imperial City.
• The colossal complex was home of some six thousand people, including the imperial family. • The British were the only power who succeeded in capturing the Forbidden City. They did so during the Second Anglo-Chinese Opium War, in 1860. • The earth excavated during the construction of the moat was piled up at a single place. The result was Jingshan Hill, an artificial hill. • All of the buildings are made from painted wood. To deal with the fire risk, giant bronze cauldrons filled with water were placed at intervals throughout the Palace.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Globaltreasure
www.traveltimes-mag.com
92
Globaltreasure
Don’t let the splash of red along the walls fool you. The walls of the buildings may be painted in red, but the roofs are yellow, as were the emperor’s personal rooms, clothing and bedding. Yellow being the imperial color was forbidden to be worn else but the imperial family! The complex palace is divided into the Outer Courts and the Inner Courts. It boasts of four gates, ten halls, six western palaces, six eastern palaces, a palace of tranquil longevity, an imperial garden and the Nine Dragon Wall. It comprises of seventy halls and palaces. A thorough visit of the Forbidden City will take you three full days. The Inner Court houses the Hall of Heavenly Purity (the front chamber), the Hall of Union and Peace (a room dedicated to union of heaven and earth which was assumed to
bring peace), and the Hall of Earthly Peace (the empress’s residence). The Outer Court consists of the Hall of Protective Harmony (where emperors gave banquets), the Hall of Central Harmony (the emperor’s resting place before major ceremonies), and the Hall of Supreme Harmony (where important ceremonies were hosted). The city itself consists of over nine hundred buildings and 9,999 rooms. Nine, if you haven’t noticed, is a desired number in China. The volume of rooms and pavilions were necessary for at its peak the Forbidden City housed as many as nine thousand people – including the royal family, concubines, servants, guards and civil servants. A city propped to serve the emperor in administrating the empire. It is no surprise then that the Forbidden City not only showcases the great artistic and architec-
There are presumably over one million articles perched in the museum, which accounts for onesixth of China’s national treasures!
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
tural skills of Chinese history, but also serves as a museum to China’s imperial past. Today, though the rooms and halls are empty of concubines and servants, curators and tourists scurry about the art galleries that exhibit paintings, clocks, bronze wares, pottery and other exquisite works that can be viewed in some of the halls. There are presumably over one million articles perched in the museum, which accounts for one-sixth of China’s national treasures! The Forbidden City may be ancient, but it has been preserved meticulously. Although a popular venue for many, events and performances in the Inner Court are strictly regulated so as to ease any pressure or damage to the structures. And, yet, we have all caught a glimpse of its majestic backdrop to the Tiananmen Square, the largest square in the
world, the ceremonial center for all great Chinese civic matters. If you can avert your gaze from the larger than life portrait of Chairman Mao overlooking the square from the Tiananmen Gate, then enjoy the children flying kites and elderly couples savoring leisurely walks on the square. Whether you are looking to meander aimlessly along the pavilions and streets of the Forbidden City or cram your head with detailed Chinese history, you won’t be disappointed. And, as it so happens Forbidden City is actually not a city, but an imperial palace complex. Even more interestingly, the Forbidden City is not forbidden, anymore that is. It was called forbidden because commoners and uninvited nobility were forbidden from entering the palace complex in imperial China. There is little forbidding about the Forbidden City these days.
TRAVEL TIPS
GETTING THERE
•
Jingshan Hill is the best place to watch the splendid layout of the palace.
•
Not forget to view the Tiananmen Square from rostrum of the front gate.
Though there’s no direct flight connecting to Beijing from Kathmandu, there are numbers of airlines that fly to Beijing via different cities. China Southern: Kathmandu-Guangzhou- Beijing China eastern: Kathmandu-Kunming-Beijing Thai Airways: Kathmandu-Bangkok-Beijing Dragon air: Kathmandu-Honkong- Beijing Silk air: Kathmandu-Singapore-Beijing Qatar: Kathmandu-Doha-Beijing
• You could end up paying much more than you should for your souvenirs. So be careful.
www.traveltimes-mag.com
94
PHOTOLOGUE
vinayak a PHOTOGRAPHic journey to
i n
k a t h m a n du
va l l e y
Photos Suresh Maharjan Words Nisha Shakya
Ganesh or Vinayak meaning “Lord of hosts� is one of the most worshipped gods by Hindu patrons. Son of Lord Shiva and Parvati, Ganesh is depicted as big bellied with an elephant head god riding on a mouse. The significance of Ganesh can be well realized from the number of temples dedicated to him and also the need of worshipping the deity before any other.
Ganesh represents tremendous wisdom, intelligence, and presence of mind. Kathmandu valley is blessed with temples of major vinayaks. Located at various parts of the valley, these vinayaks can be toured within a day.
Bells are important parts of temple. Artistic brass bells can be seen in every hindu temple.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
Located in Chobhar, Kirtipur, Jal Binayak, one of the vinayaks of the valley is also known as Chandra Vinayak. The temple was constructed in pagoda style during the Malla period. A visit to the temple is considered to be blessed with children and get a backache cured.
Swet Vinayak: Chabahil Ganesh or Swet Vinayak is a major vinayak situated at Chabahil. This Ganesh is believed to cure every kind of swellings in the body and other illness.
97
SURYA VINAYAK: One of the important vinayaks of the valley, the shrine is situated under the open sky in a sylvan setting to catch the first rays of the sun. Located in the beautiful setting of Bhaktapur, the temple carries religious as well as historical significance.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
photologue
Kamaladi Ganesh: Located in the prime area Kamaladi, Kathmandu, this Ganesh is considered as one of the holiest Ganesh temple. There is a big crowd of the devotees on Tuesdays and other auspicious occasions.
Ashok Vinayak: Built during 11-12th century, the temple of Ashok Vinayak located at Kasthamandup doesn’t have Gajur. It is believed that worshipping this vinayak keeps one away from tragedies.
Karya Vinayak: Considered as god of good deed, Karyavinayak has a deep significance among the followers as a deity for making successful of one’s effort. Situated in Bungamati, Lalitpur, the temple has a statue of a mouse in front of the temple.
Kamal Vinayak: Resting Ganesh on a lotus is from where this deity got its name as Kamal Vinayak, (Kamal meaning lotus in Nepali). A large number of devotees pay visit to this shrine which is located on the side of a big pond in Bhaktapur.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
99
www.traveltimes-mag.com
100
photologue
Panaromic view of Kamal Vinayak.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
SB FURNITURES’s new showroom unveiled in Panipokhari Only walls do not make up a house. Complementing furniture and interiors are equally essential. Home furniture completes the look of a house and makes it a home. The warmth and appeal it brings to a residence cannot be compared to any other style. The opening of new outlet by S.B Furniture in Panipokhari, Kathmandu proves this very essence.
SB Furniture in association with S.N. Joshi & Sons Private Limited opened its second outlet in Panipokhari, Kathmandu on September 26, 2010. The showroom was inaugurated by Thai ambassador to Nepal. SB Furniture started up a retail showroom on May 3, 2009 in Lagankhel, Lalitpur and within a year it has become successful to live up to its standard of providing quality home furniture. Renowned for high quality the showroom will be showcasing beds, sofas, children’s bedroom furniture, dining sets, entertainment units, wardrobe, and other home furniture which has been designed by the SB Furniture team of Thailand. SB Furniture is a multinational brand that is
synonymous internationally with quality furniture. With its representation in more than 30 countries, this multi national brand is one of the largest manufactures of furniture in Thailand. With over 40 years of experience in modern contemporary home furniture, it has marketed its product under two brands SB Furniture and Koncept.
With its representation in more than 30 countries, this multi national brand is one of the largest manufactures of furniture in Thailand.
SB Furniture is well known for its quality. Committed to excellence, SB Furniture is an ISO 9002 and ISO 14001 certified company that uses the highest quality of raw materials and fittings. It has set up an international quality control standard thus constantly keeps innovating and improving with continuous research and development. The products are made with premium quality in SB Furniture’s state of the art factories in Thailand.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
105
www.traveltimes-mag.com
106 festivalwatch
Dashain
The customary cannon fire salute to signal the beginning of the festival.
Let The Festivities Begin!!! Words Prasanna Pandey | Photos Naresh Shrestha
Something’s in the air. After the incessant rains of the monsoon gradually dwindle and the mercury drops to a mildly pleasant level, the winds pick up and the numerous colorful kites soar upwards into the clear azure sky. The countenance of everyone beams with delight at this welcome change. It is the festive season of Dashain and Tihar and it shows.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
107
Locals enjoyong the traditional swing during dashain.
Few weeks before Dashain, people rush to reserve ticket to buses and airplanes to their hometown. Everyone seeks to be with their family as this is a festival that is as much about receiving blessings from elders and relatives as it is about having a gala time with good food and great company. Goats and sheep embark upon their annual journey from the highlands to be hastily devoured in a market where they are sold by weight. Numerous bamboo swings are erected in the settlements in expectance of good days ahead. Houses and roads are cleaned and walls are beautifully decorated as an invitation to Goddess Durga. In the early days, Nepal was an archipelago with settlements that were separated by rivers and valleys. Such a group of communities observed their own rites and practices which led to an explosion of cultural heritage within the confines of valleys.
Dashain as a festival is observed by all the communities of Nepal and its observance threads the diversity of practice into ethnic harmony. Vijaya Dashami can be translated to the ‘victorious tenth day’.  It is celebrated on the tenth day of the bright half of the lunar calendar on the month of Ashwin and is the grand culmination of the 10day annual festival of Dashain or Navaratri. The legend underlying the celebrations and its way of observance varies from region to region; however, all festivities celebrate the victory of the forces of Good over Evil. One legend recounts the victory of Lord Rama over Ravana on the tenth day after he had worshipped Goddess Durga for nine consecutive days. Another legend marks the tenth day as the day when Goddess Durga was victorious over Demon Mahisasur who terrorized earth as a wicked water buffalo.
Dashain as a festival is observed by all the communities of Nepal and its observance threads the diversity of practice into ethnic harmony.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
festivalwatch
www.traveltimes-mag.com
Locals of Hadigaun celebrate dashain putting their own twist to the hindu festival. The Hadigaun Jatra is popular with locals as well as visitors.
108
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
109
(Above) Devotees bringing the fulpati from gorkha district, a tradition that has remained unchanged for decades now. (Below) A Lakhey dance in sikali on the day of fulpati. Sikali is a unique place that does not celebrate dashain.
The first day of the festival is Ghatashapana in which a kalash - a holy water vessel is established as an embodiment of goddess Durga in the prayer room. The Kalash is filled with holy water and covered with cowdung onto which seeds are sown. The Kalash is surrounded by sand which is seeded and at an auspicious moment the priest intones sacred mantra as an invitation to the goddess to bless the kalash with her presence. During the next five days, various forms of goddess are worshipped till the seventh day - Fulpati. An elaborate assortment of flowers and foliage is assembled and taken to the prayer room in the evening and the Goddess is worshipped in her primary three manifestations – Durga, MahaLaxmi and MahaSaraswati. Traditionally, the sacred Fulpati is brought from Gorkha on foot to Hanuman Dhoka Place where they are used for worship.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
festivalwatch
www.traveltimes-mag.com
110
festivalwatch
The eighth day is known as Maha Asthami and this day starts with sacrifices to the Goddess Kali and libations of purified butter on sacred sacrificial fire. The night of the eighth day is celebrated as ‘Kal Ratri’ by some communities. At night, hundreds of buffaloes, goats and sheep are sacrificed to the Goddess. On Nawami - the ninth day, the Taleju temple at Hanuman Dhoka is opened for the public; an annual event. Throngs of people visit the statue of the Goddess to receive her blessing throughout this day. Official military sacrifices are also observed in the courtyard of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace on this day. The god of machinery and creativity Vishwakarma is also worshipped on the same day.
(Left Top) Animals being sacrificed to worship Goddess Durga (Right) In Bhaktapur, the locals make a colorful and loud spectcale out of preparing buffaloes to sacrifice it later to goddess durga. (Left Bottom) Locals line up for a chance to worship ay the Taleju Bhawani temple which opens only once each year for dashain.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
111
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
festivalwatch
www.traveltimes-mag.com
112
festivalwatch
The tenth day is the culmination of the nine days of rigorous worship to the Mother Goddess and is marked by receiving Tika (rice in axata) and Jamara (the semi-grown saplings planted earlier) as blessings of the goddess from the elders. People in the family visit the elder relative’s home on this day to receive blessings of the goddess. This function continues for the next four days, until the day of the full moon (Kojagart Purnima).
(Above)Tika is marked by elders in the family and community putting tika on the foreheads of younger ones as a sign on blessing.
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
For unbelievable offers, Log in to
www.eticketnepal.com
113
After the chaos of a fortnight, normalcy is restored in daily life. People feel reinvigorated and rejuvenated after a lengthy break from the drudgeries of routine and belief in their faith that they have indeed been blessed by some higher power. Dashain is one of the most anticipated festivals of Nepal and it is not only celebrated at home but also celebrated by the Nepali diaspora abroad.
(Above) Residents of bhaktapur celebrating dashain in their own unique way. (Below) A unique tradition in bhaktapur where children balance oil lamps on their head, shoulders and knees in devotion.
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
festivalwatch
www.traveltimes-mag.com
116
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES
TIMES OCTOBER 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
117
www.traveltimes-mag.com
118
OCTOBER 2010
TIMES