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November 2009

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Trekking in Nepal If travelling be the spice of life, trekking will quench your thirst! Find out why Nepal is truly a trekkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise.

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TSUM VALLEY tashi tenzing sherpa

gokyo lake

helitrekking

on Destination Spotlight

on Company Profile

on Personality Review

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Editorial Dear Readers, With the end of the torrential rains of the monsoons in Nepal comes trekking season. The clouds clear up, the sun shines brighter (on most days) and the mountains beckon to the trekker inside us all. The country sees a sudden surge in tourists from all over the world, trekkers who have heard about the splendor of the magnificent Himalayas here in Nepal and have given in to this temptation. This month, Travel Times, your travel companion, brings to you a Trekking Special issue to rid you of the

conundrum of where to trek to and for what reasons. Nepal makes for such a great trekkers’ destination in this season not only because of the sheer density of mountains here (eight of the world’s fourteen highest peaks to be precise) but also because of the many other highlights of our trekking trails such as Himalayan flora and fauna, our rich culture and the hospitality of the Nepalese. We also have an exclusive interview with Tashi Tenzing Sherpa, grandson of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, talking about his memories of growing up with a famous grandfather.

not to miss in Bangkok and the local cuisine from the Thak region that we can’t seem to get enough of! Happy Traveling! The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Also in this issue: amazing Heli Trekking tours, what

Contents

62 50

Start traveling....with Travel Times 26 Travelogue

54 Health Times

Walking on thin Ice The whipping winds reason otherwise but the views push you on. With water bottles frozen and no toilet paper, a trekker stubbornly climbs on and is rewarded at 5415 meters...

Trekking in Nepal, Where, When and Why If travelling be the spice of life, trekking will quench your thirst! Find out why Nepal is truly a trekker’s paradise.

56 Destination Spotlight A series of high altitude lakes at around 4800m in the Sagarmatha National Park in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal.

60 Travel Tips Right Shoe Forward

44 Global Treasure

Guidelines to choosing the right shoe for specific kinds of treks.

Amazing Bangkok A paradise for tourists of all kinds; culture junkies, architecture fanatics, romantics, the pious, history geeks and shopaholics.

50 Personality Review An Hour with Tashi Tenzing Sherpa Grandson of Nepal’s most famous mountaineer reminisces about growing up with a famous grandfather and why his book on the Sherpa people was necessary.

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Simple health tips from the expert to make sure you conclude your trek on a great note.

Gokyo Lake

30 Cover Story

Staying healthy on a trek

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62 Company Profile Heli-trekking with Fishtail Air Don’t have weeks to trek through the mountains and go sightseeing? Don’t sweat it. Make it short and sweet - get on a chopper for a Heli-trek!

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Contents 68

90 68 People & Culture

82 12 Travel News

The Sherpa People of Illam

Fine examples of how a community is defined as much by the conditions they live in as by time-tested traditions.

72 Hotels & Casinos Gokarna Forest and Resort Get away from the humdrum of city life into an eco-friendly paradise.

78 FOODRINK

Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

20 Market Guide

A sneak peek on what is new in the market.

Arguably the most popular Nepali cuisine of the hills, the Thakali Thali like any other great recipe, also has a bit of history attached to it.

82 Nature and Wildlife Himalayan Flora & Fauna Trekking in Nepal is more than just for the adrenaline rush and the great views. The mountains are a treasure trove for an amazing array of flora and fauna.

86 A Tale of Vagabond The travelling twosome Valeriy and Nadia give pointers on how to make the most of your travels and list some of their most memorable travels.

MOODS Studio Lounge, a new hangout in town Featuring a chosen image sent in by travelers.

42 Trek Kit

Apparels and accessories for trekking

76 Recommended Restaurants A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.

98 Trip Clipper

For subscription (

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or log on to www.traveltimes-mag.com

90 Perfect Takeaways Incense - Essence of the ages Smell good it does - but the incense sticks used in almost all Nepali ceremonies have a lot more meaning attached to them.

94 Festival Watch

The philosophical concept of Mha Puja

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editorial team Deepak Bhatta Chairman A. R. Tandukar Managing Director / Editor Shambhu Tandukar Associate Editor Mahesh Tandukar Creative Head Utsav Shakya Copy Editor Prita Malla Inhouse Writer Manoj Manandhar Graphics Designer Tilak Khatri Director Sales & Marketing Anumesh Bajracharya Marketing Executive Suresh Maharjan Photographer Manager - Subscription & Sajjan Bhandari Distribution Arjun Thapa Distribution Executive

22 New in town

24 Travel Gallery

Thakali Thali

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Advisors A. Das gupta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com or call Mr. Sajjan Bhandari at 98510 92748

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Travelnews

India and Pokhara to be air-linked

On October 28, 2009 a skydiving event was held at Gorak Shep. During the event,

NATIONAL

world skydiving champion Wendy Smith from New Zealand, Global Angels ambassador and tandem master Tom Noonan and Wing Commander Jai Kishan from the Indian Air Force, made a successful landing at the Gorak Shep, Kala Patthar plateau, lying at an altitude of 17,192 feet (5,242m), right beside Mt. Everest. This is believed to be the highest skydiving stunt performed over highest drop zone in the world. The operation was carried out from Fishtail Air’s AS 350 B3 helicopter flown by Capt. Sabin Basnet and Capt. Deepak Rana.

Asian Alpine Association to meet for conference in Hongkong According to Ang Tsering Sherpa, president of UAAA, the conference discussed on mountaineering tourism and activities to bring effectiveness in tourism reducing negative impacts to the environment.

Union of Asian Alpine Associations (UAAA) has organized its conference in Hong Kong. The representatives from Japan, Korea, China, India, Pakistan and Singapore and more than 25 nations had participated in the event to form a new working committee.

China has built an earthquake monitoring station at foot of Mount Everest

Targeting Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY 2011), Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has insisted to organize the International Mountaineering meet in Nepal as well. Sherpa has urged the committee to organize the next conference in Nepal during NTY 2011. itage of upper Mustang which reflects ancient Tibetan tradition attracts tourists to the tiny Trans-Himalayan district.

China built an earthquake monitoring station at the foot of Mount Everest, to improve scientific understanding of the world’s highest peak. Shang Rongbo, deputy director of the earthquake monitoring and warning center under the regional seismology bureau, said the station is located at about 14,000 feet (4,255 meters) in Tibet’s Tingri County. He said the station would boost real-time collection of data about seismic events along the China-Nepal border, sending that by satellite to research centers elsewhere.

Dutch Team claims Nepal a good spot for tourism A team from Netherlands that had arrived in Nepal by TUI ArkeFly of Netherlands has found Nepal a suitable site for tourism. The Manager of TUI group Manfred Lahe said, “I found possibilities of tourism market 12 NOVEMBER 2009

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The dives were performed in the morning of 28th Oct, 2009 between 7:30 to 9 AM. The helicopter took off with the skydiving team from Shyangboche airport and flew to a height of 23,000 feet before dropping from 21,000 feet at right air layer. As a continuation of the Everest Skydive 2008, the Everest Skydive 2009 program was organized by Explore Himalaya with the help of Nepal Tourism board to promote Nepal Tourism Year 2011.During the event, all the skydivers sported the logo of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 on their jumpsuits.

Biratnagar to host major industrial trade fair

Biratnagar of Morang district will host a weeklong agriculture, tourism and industrial trade fair starting from January 19, 2010 with the aim of commercial development of agriculture, tourism and industrial products, organized in collaboration of Morang Industry Association. The District Development Committee, Biratnagar Sub-Metropolitan City, Commercial Agriculture Alliance, Regional Agricultural Directorate and Regional Livestock Service Directorate are co-organizers of the fair. According to the organizers there will be at least 16 stalls featuring agriculture machinery and tools, industrial and agriculture products, handicrafts, garments and automobiles will be put on display in the fair. People from Sunsari, Jhapa, Udayapur, Siraha, Saptari, Ilam, Panchthar, Dhankuta, Tehrathum, Bhojpur districts as well as from India and Bangladesh are expected to participate.

here,” he said adding that the Dutch people are interested in spending their vacation in Nepal. The airlines made its first flight to Kathmandu from Amsterdam on October 7 with 153 passengers. It has selected Malla Travels as its authorized agent in Nepal. To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com

Travelnews

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Nepali mountaineer to gift U.S. president with rock from Mt. Qomolangma

Nepal in international trade fair

camp during his visit to the United States next month to highlight the impact of climate change in the region.

Mountaineer Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who set the world record for conquering Qomolangma in the shortest time ever in 2004, plans to gift United States President Barack Obama a piece of rock from Mt. Qomolangma base

Sherpa who has already climbed the summit for 10 times also plans to show pictures and videos from the region to Obama during his visit starting from Nov. 7. Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal had also gifted Obama with a piece of rock from Qomolangma to highlight the same cause during his recent U.S. trip to participate in the United Nations General Assembly.

Statues of 3 tourism ‘heroes’ at Nepal Tourism Board pal Tourism Board (NTB) in honor of their contribution to the country. Subash Niraula, Senior Director at the NTB said, “They have all played significant roles for the promotion of tourism in Nepal,”.

The statue of first Mt Everest conqueror Tenzing Norgay Sherpa.along with Sir Edmund Hilary and adventurer Boris Lissanevitch has been erected at the premises of Ne-

Hilary and Sherpa were the first two persons to scale up the world´s highest peak on 29 May 1953, whereas Lissanevitch was the first to introduce the concept of ´tourist friendly hotels´ in Nepal.

Nepal will be participating in an international trade fair on construction equipment and technology hosted by India from November 25-29. Organized by Federation of Indian Chambers and Commerce Industry (FICCI), the trade fair aims at promoting advance equipments and technology related to infrastructure development. Dozer, roller, crane, motor and motor parts will be put on sales and exhibition. Besides Nepal and India, the US, Britain, China, Germany, Italy, South Korea and 34 other countries will also take part in the fair that will have 282 exhibition stalls. The event is expected to help Nepal bring in latest equipments and technology developed in the field of infrastructure development.

Yeti Travels acquires Skoda

Yeti Travels acquired eight Skoda Lauras from Skoda MAW, the sole distributor of Skoda Auto in Nepal. With this acquisition, Yeti’s fleet now numbers 114 vehicles. Singha B. Basnyat, chairman of Yeti Travels, received the car keys from Jan Kreuter, chargé d’affaires, Embassy of the Czech Republic, at the Skoda showroom in Thapathali. On the occasion, Basnyat said that Yeti Travels believed in its longstanding tradition of provid-

ing quality service, continuity and innovative approaches. He also highlighted Nepal being included in the Top 10 hottest destinations for 2010 and adding the Skodas to its vehicle fleet was in preparation for Nepal Tourism Year 2011. Kreuter said that tourism in Nepal was one of the most important sectors and needed to be continuously reinforced keeping up with international standards.

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Travelnews

Welcome to 3rd NATTA Himalayan Intl. Travel Mart 2009 ings, B2B session and soThe organizing of an Inter3 NATTA Himalayan cial functions will mark national Travel Mart of International Travel Mart 2009 the Mart schedule, such great magnitude in city and shopping Nepal was initiated by tours as well as Nepal Association of the customary day Tour and Travel Agents long excursion set (NATTA) in 2005 and in the Shangri-La then in 2007, in close ambience of the city conjunction with Nepal 23-25 November 2009, of Kathmandu. Under Tourism Board and Nepal Kathmandu, Nepal the theme “Sustainability, Airlines Corporation. The event is now being held for the 3rd time and Networking and Profitability” the it carries global brand value. The 3rd co- organizers- Nepal Tourism Board NATTA Himalayan International Travel (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation Mart 2009 being held in Kathmandu, have spared no efforts to make this Nepal from 23-25 November 2009 international level event successhas provided a wonderful opportunity ful and enjoyable for all delegates. for the tourism fraternity to assemble About 200 travel trade related entretogether under a common roof and preneurs from countries like Hong interact to improve their business net- Kong, China, Taiwan, France, Monaco, Poland, India, Bangladesh, Cambodia, work. Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, ZamThe first NATTA Himalayan Interna- bia, Sri Lanka, Israel, Bhutan, Pakitional Travel Mart was organized stan, Mynmar, Turkey, Singapore, Italy, under the theme ‘Streaming Efforts Spain, Bulgaria, Switzerland and Sweof Promoting Inter-Regional Tourism’. den have sent in their entry forms with The event, the first of its kind in Nepal, more entries flooding in every day. coincided with the 15th National Convention of NATTA. There were more This year the 3rd NATTA Himalayan than 150 foreign participants including Int’l Travel Mart has coincided with exhibitors from 18 countries and more 43rd UFTAA World Congress which than 400 local participants participat- will be wrapping up on the 23rd and ed in the Mart with a total of 30 stalls on the same day, the Mart will be inaugurated at Bhrikuti Mandap. There from the entire tourism fraternity. are more than 50 dedicated buyers Following the grand success of the and exhibitors attending the Mart on First NATTA Himalayan International special invitation by NATTA. UFTAA Travel Mart, NATTA organized the 2nd participants will also be attending the Himalayan International Travel Mart Mart. 24th Nov is marked for the B2B under the theme ‘Tourism: Prosperity session which will be held at Gokarna for Posterity’. The event coincided Forest Resort. 25th Nov is the last day with the 16th National Convention of of Mart where the general public will NATTA. be allowed to visit the Mart for free. rd

This year, beside the official gather-

NHITM Coordinator Mr. Shambhu Pathak’s Message The only International Travel Mart in Nepal will play a vital role in tourism promotion and global recognition to Nepal as a top class destination. This event will also act as a stepping stone for the success of Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

ORGANIZER:

CO-ORGANIZER:

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UFTAA Congress at Foot of Himalaya The 43rd UFTAA Congress is going to be held at Kathmandu this November (20-24) under the theme “Sustainability, Networking and Profitability”. Nepal Association of Tour and Travel Agents Association (NATTA) is leading this gala event as an organizer along with Nepal Tourism Board and Nepal Airlines as co-organizers. UFTAA is a world body representing the travel agency and tourism industry. The United Federation of Travel Agents’ Associations (UFTAA) emanates from the Universal Federation of Travel Agents’ Association created in Rome, Italy, on November 22nd, 1966. UFTAA was originally founded as a result of a merger of two large world organizations, FIAV and UOTAA, recognizing the need to unify travel agencies and touroperators into one international federation. UFTAA started its operation as a Confederation on January 1st, 2003. It is a non-profit confederation of international scope, representing regional federations comprising of some 80 national associations. Nepal Association of Tour and Travel Agents Association (NATTA) has been a member of UFTAA since the 1980s. The UFTAA congress is one of the highlights of the industry’s year, and attracts participants ranging from National Association’s delegates, Travel Agents, Travel Partners, Tour Operators, Suppliers, Government Agencies

and other associations. It is an occasion for you to network, to exchange information, to make your voice heard, to monitor industry trends in the world and to develop business opportunities. The upcoming 43rd UFTAA World Congress is going to be held in Nepal. The prestigious congress to be hosted in Kathmandu was won by bidding a proposal at Hyderabad, India in one of the board meetings of UFTAA. Mr. Pavitra Karki was elected as Board of Director of UFTAA for South Asian Region at 42nd UFTAA Congress at Manila, Philippines. This year around 200+ participants are expected to attend the Congress from 80 member countries. The Board Members of UFTAA are scheduled to arrive at Kathmandu on 18th for the Board Meeting on 19th Nov. Other participants will arrive on 19th and 20th Nov. The grand inauguration of the 43rd UFTAA World Congress is programmed at Hotel Soaltee on 20th November 2009. The 21st and 22nd will have the working sessions of the congress where speakers from Canada, Singapore and Nepal will present on various tourism affairs and issues. The 44th UFTAA World Congress-2010 host country will host an exclusive dinner on 21st Nov at Hotel Soaltee. This year special focus will be given to B2B/Networking among the foreign participants and local participants.

UFTAA Director/2nd Vice President Mr. Pavirta Kumar Karki’s Message: The UFTAA congress at the foot of Himalaya will provide an astonishing opportunity for all the tourism leaders from various parts of the globe to discover Nepal. A tourism event of this magnitude will set a benchmark in MICE tourism. The event has been touted as the Olympics of tourism.

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

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Travelnews

Positive trends for Asia Pacific tourism – PATA

Figures released by PATA show that the numbers of international visitors to the Asia Pacific region* improved by a marginal 0.5 percent in August 2009 compared to August 2008. However, figures recorded for the first eight months of 2009 in the same region show that international visitor arrivals are down, year-on-year, by some five percent. Northeast Asia recorded a year-on-year increase of four percent in international visitor arrivals for August 2009 with growth in China (PRC) (+3 percent), Hong Kong SAR (+6 percent) and Macau SAR (+7 percent) pushing the August 2009 figure back to positive territory (at least in relative terms). Arrivals to Southeast Asia grew by three percent in August, mainly supported by strong arrivals to Malaysia (+10 percent). Arrivals to South Asia were down by four percent on a steep nine percent decline in arrivals to India. The smaller countries in the sub-region experienced increased visitor arrivals: Maldives (+1 percent), Nepal (+5 percent) and Sri Lanka (+34 percent). Declines in arrivals to the Pacific slowed to a marginal -0.5 percent year-on-year in August, partly helped by some form of stability in arrivals to Hawaii.

IATA welcomes environmental progress The International Air Transport Association (IATA) welcomed progress made at the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) High Level Meeting on International Aviation and Climate Change (HLM-ENV). IATA urged governments to move forward quickly to implement what was agreed and develop an even more ambitious agenda.

“We took a step in the right direction, toward a global sectoral approach, but there is still a lot of ground to cover. As a united industry, we remain committed to the ambitious environmental targets that we brought to this meeting. Governments took note of our targets and recognized the need to work with industry to secure a sustainable future for aviation. This is significant progress,” said Giovanni Bisignani, IATA’s Director General and CEO.

Singapore unveils worldfirst attraction

Burj Dubai observation deck to open this year

From early 2010, visitors to Singapore’s two new Integrated Resorts are set for a series of once in a lifetime experiences with the launch of a host of new luxury attractions, including the world’s only Madagascar theme park attraction and a unique “floating” Louis Vuitton store. Themed after Dreamworks Animation’s blockbuster movie Madagascar: A Crate Adventure will bring the hit animation movie to life with a state-of-the-art indoor boat ride featuring animated figures, digital projection and other special effects. Southeast Asia’s only Universal Studio’s theme park will also be home to the world’s first Far Far Away Castle, a landmark in the box-office hit Shrek series.

World’s Largest Pyramid – Invisible to the naked eye

For hundreds of years, the Great Pyramid of Cholula in Mexico appeared to be a grassy hill with a church on top. Luckily, the dirt and soil gradually eroded away and the stunned archeologists made an astonishing discovery in the early 20th century. 16 NOVEMBER 2009

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The excavation works have so far revealed many of the pyramid’s stairways, platforms, altars and more than eight km of tunnels buried under the church. The base of the pyramid was measured at an impressive 450 by 450 m and its height at 66 m. It is a massive temple which was once dedicated to the deity Quetzalcoatl. A 50-metre long multicolored mural was also uncovered by the archeologists; which features life-sized human figures.

Burj Dubai, the world’s tallest building, will open its top observation deck to the public later this year, Gulf News has reported. Located at the 124th level of the 160storey tower, ‘At The Top’, as the deck will be known, will be accessed via a 10-stage journey, starting at the Dubai Mall, taking approximately 45 minutes.

ITB Asia showcases responsible tourism

ITB Asia and partners will hold a responsible tourism networking event on 22 October. The objective is to share experiences and strengthen contacts and business opportunities between environmentally and socially

responsible travel operators. The event is a continuation of the responsible tourism networking event supported by Messe Berlin during ITB Berlin in March and at the South Asia Travel and Tourism Exchange (SATTE) in New Delhi in April. The responsible travel event at ITB Asia is being co-organised by The Blue Yonder, Traveltocare.com and Wild Asia.

Travelnews

interNATIONAL

Hotel rooms are getting cheaper world wide According to Hotels.com, average hotel prices fell by 17 per cent in the first half of this year compared to 2008. They based their Hotel Price Index (HPI) on money paid in 78,000 hotels across 13,000 places around the world. As a source for the HPI was used information about bookings through the Hotels. com website. According to the index, it was the Latin America that recorded the sharpest decline in hotel room prices during the first six

months of 2009. The prices here dropped by 18 per cent also “thanks” to the swine flu outbreak. North American (US and Canada) hotel prices dropped by 17 per cent during the period. In Europe the prices also reacted to the global crisis by decreasing 10 per cent in Q4 2008 and then by 16 per cent in first half of 2009. Prices in the Caribbean decreased only by 2 per cent during the period in question. Last but not least hotel prices in Asia dropped on average by some 17 per cent.

Will Maldives become to the first carbon free nation? climate change are worrying locals. The thing is that it is expected that most of the state will end up under water by 2100 because of the rising sea levels. The president would like the country to use only renewable energy sources instead of fossil fuels. The Maldives, the smallest Asian country, is now planning to tax tourists. President Mohammed Nasheed wants the island Muslim country to become the world’s first carbon neutral nation. It would not change the fate of the planet that much because the Maldives have only 309,000 inhabitants. Nevertheless, global warming and the

The new green tax would be $3 per each tourist a day. It is a tax that definitely would not put off regular visitors of Maldives’ luxury resorts. Rich visitors of this island nation are paying up to 15,000 dollars a night so 3 dollars is no big deal for them. Based on average numbers this tax would bring $6.3 million annually to the Maldives government’s coffers.

World Cup to boost South Africa tourism

Next year’s World Cup will help South Africa promote its tourism industry in new markets, especially in the Americas where the nation has little presence, organizing chief Danny Jordaan said Tuesday. Qualifying nations like Mexico and Honduras will raise South Africa’s profile in the Americas, while strong ticket sales in theUnited States will give the country a new boost among American travelers, he told parliament’s tourism committee. “Mexico, Honduras, these are all completely new markets. The US has bought the highest number of tickets, 82000,” he said. “It carries great opportunity if we can strengthen tourism in the US market.””In many of these (qualifying) countries we do not have an embassy,” he said. “There is a high interest and it comes with great opportunities.”

Kilimanjaro’s ice may disappear by 2033

Cruising on land? A unique resort in Turkish Antalya In Turkey, a unique idea was turned into reality thanks to a generous $50 million investment – a glamorous hotel resort which in fact is a magnificent cruise liner. The hotel is quite a spectacle. It is located on a beach between the clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea and the Taurus Mountains, in the region of Antalya. The layout of the resort resembles a harbor, whereas the hotel features several smaller villas, shaped as ships, one of which is a slightly futuristic copy of the infamous ocean liner the Queen Elizabeth.

The ice on Africa’s highest mountain could vanish in 13 to 24 years, a fate also awaiting the continent’s other glaciers, a study said Monday. U.S.-based researchers Lonnie Thompson and colleagues said glaciers on Kilimanjaro, Tanzania’s snow-capped volcano which attracts 40,000 visitors a year, could disappear. “There is a strong likelihood that the ice fields will disappear within a decade or two if current conditions persist,” said the study, published by the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS) journal TIMES

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marketGUIDE

SNEAK PEEK ON

what’s new IN THE

MARKET

Nature Valley, Crunchy Granola Bars… Brought to you by General Mills, trusted name in the food industry for more than 150 years, Nature Valley is a tasty, crunchy granola bar. It made of rolled, whole grain oats which is mixed with other wholesome ingredients like honey, fruits and nuts and baked into crunchy convenient bar. Nature valley was first introduced by general mills in the US in 1975, and is now enjoyed the world over as healthy and wholesome snack bar full of fiber. Nature Valley, also provides consumers with cereal that is bursting with crunchy chunks of granola bars. Whether it’s your hectic office life, your workouts at the gym or your weekend trek, Nature valley is the perfect snack for your active lifestyle.

- It 100% natural - It is made of wholesome ingredients like whole grain oats, fruits and nuts. - It is a perfect snack that can be enjoyed anytime, anywhere. - It is a source of fiber, protein and essential nutrients - It comes in various delicious flavors; Oats and Honey, Apple Crunch, Peanut Butter, Roasted Almond and many more… Sitaula group in Nepal is the authorized distributors in Nepal.

LG launches new mobile in the market

Panasonic TS1

SLet your fingers do the talking with the LG GW525, the phone that keeps you connected with your friends, family and music. With the intuitive QWERTY keypad and 2.8” full touch screen the LG GW525 is designed for messaging on-the-move. Some of its features are:

Panasonic, maker of the ToughBook series of notebook computers, has launched its first rugged digital camera: the Lumix TS1. The Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS1 is a rugged shockproof, waterproof, and dustproof digital camera with a sensor resolution of 12.1 effective megapixels from a 1/2.33” RGB CCD image sensor. Panasonic has coupled this to an image stabilized, Leica DC Vario-Elmar branded 4.6x optical zoom lens with a useful 28-128mm-equivalent wide-angle zoom. Featuring a 28mm wide angle lens, 4.6 x optical zoom and IA (Intelligent Auto) mode, this versatile camera lets you capture your special moments on the move. In addition to reinforcing the exterior of the camera with shock-resistant material, the FT1 uses folded optics to prevent its lens from taking damage if dropped during use. Combined with its dustproof and waterproof qualities, this makes it an ideal camera for the outdoors, in active situations, and for casual everyday shooting.

- - - - - - - -

RF Band: GSM 850/900/1800/1900,UMTS 900/2100 Display: 2.8-inch full touchscreen TFT display with 240×400 pixels resolution Dimensions: 106.5×53x15.9 mm Slim and Compact design Slider QWERTY keyboard Enhanced messaging and social networking features Push e-mail and instant messaging 3 megapixel camera

To feature your product send us the details at marketguide@traveltimes-mag.com

20 NOVEMBER 2009

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newintown

a new hangout in town

Moods S t u d io

lo u n g e

One of the new and notable hangouts in town, Moods Studio Lounge is fast gaining popularity among Kathmanduites. Two months after its formal opening, it still manages to create a buzz around town and is always full of people looking for a good time in the evenings.

Located in the Bluebird Mall building in Thapathali, with ample parking space, it is an ideal place where you can hang out with your friends or spend quality time with your family. It is for any occasion; be it a small get-together, corporate events, cocktail parties, private dining or even a birthday bash. Moods Lounge is not just a lounge; it’s a style of adapting liquor diplomacy in creative and traditional yet entertaining environment. Moods has meticulously designed a state-ofthe-art, stylish interior that has no comparison. It is a melting pot of sensation, innovation and excellence. The African flavored décor (designed by Sun City developers), all

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Nepali exotic artifacts, futuristic lighting and music, it is the place to relax your senses and pamper your moods. High-quality large range of cuisines, reasonable prices and its amiable ambience makes Moods a great, trendy choice. It’s the first lounge in Nepal to install a system of recording live music that can be turned into a music album. So next time you are there don’t forget to try out the Karaoke. Moods adapts the beverage habit with the creation of art, skills and professionalism. With three custom-made bars, Ferdie’s Bar for cocktails, mocktails and high range of spirits, Marita’s Bar for wine, cognac and cigars, and Dave’s Bar for coffee hookah, bartending here is a fine art of concocting alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages to suit different tastes and

some new exotic concoctions. Service here is affable and personal as they are trained not just to serve food but to build lasting relationships with the customers. For all the music lovers, there is live music from 7pm to 10pm every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and with high-tech music system and laser lights, the DJ nights every Friday & Saturday from 10pm to the wee hours in the dawn is truly memorable. Moods is a true memento for those who enjoy a cheerful evening with family, friends and associates. Even if you walk in alone you will never feel lonely, such is the service Moods delivers. “With whatever mood you walk into Moods Studio & Lounge, a new mood is created here!”

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By rex maharjan

24 NOVEMBER 2009

TIMES To publish your photographs in this section, submit to info@traveltimes-mag.com with photo and camera details.

View of the mountains from Ghandruk

IMAGE OF THE MONTH KOdak Easyshare C913 F/3.8 / Ex Time 1/320.

TRAVELGALLERY

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TRAVELOGUE

Walking On Thin Ice The whipping winds reason otherwise but the views push you on. With water bottles frozen and no toilet paper, a trekker stubbornly climbs on and is rewarded at 5415 meters.

Text by Dave Matthews

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My first night in Ngadj brought to me, the reality of what true Himalayan cold feels. During the day the sun was hot and even in shorts and a t-shirt, I still sweated like a beast of burden. Yet as soon as that bright sun dipped behind the ice capped mountains it became eerily cold. I had brought only one pair of thin quick dry pants, three shirts, one fleece, one windbreaker, a scarf, three pairs of socks and three pairs of underwear. This was not good. I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expecting the terrific views to start so soon. But a bright sun over a wind-swept mountain-scape soon put that right. By Jagat, we passed a truly massive pass where people were hammering away on the rock face with chisels and hammers in an effort to construct a road. It felt like a scene from an ancient explorer movie as we walked the four foot wide pass, rocks tumbling down into the raging aqua marine coloured river several thousand feet below us. We

made it to Chamje that evening with the air rapidly cooling and I realised how terrible a squat toilet can be without foot wear. In just a single day’s walking, ice capped mountains started to appear larger and more majestic as we continued our forested ascent. We trudged up high narrow ledge passes leading to Timang Besi. The sun was setting and the mountains were showing off their pink shades of explosive colours. We sat ourselves into the smoke filled kitchen of our hotel for warmth. The local women were making buff momo, a sort of steamed or fried pastry dumpling with meat, for a celebration. I then remembered it was New Year’s Eve. I decided to try Yak Cheese momo as a treat and looked on as the Himalayas treated us to a mini light show. The mornings often felt the coldest; too

cold for an essential squat position, though apple pancakes beforehand help! For the first time along the trek, it was obvious there were less people around. We were also walking across frozen ground into a snowy fantasy land. Wonderful frozen waterfalls soon became a regular occurrence as did streams frozen in time. At 3000 meters, Bhratang was a ghost town of a place with a bitter, cold wind whipping though it. A solitary crow cawed at us over lunch and Narayan took it as a bad omen. Dark clouds were moving in. The snow was coming. We only had days to make it to the top. My head was aching slightly due to the cold, though subconsciously I suspected worse. What also did not feel good was that there was no more toilet paper available. So I went the Nepalese way of the left hand and a bucket of water. I can confirm that at 6 am, water is frozen solid and cleaning yourself with ice is a strange and not a very enjoyable experience!

By the time we reached Manang for our two days acclimatisation, my head was a little light and achy. Yet the spectacular views overcame any ill feeling. Barren yak filled landscapes surrounded us as two lone travellers made their way past the odd lone stupa and prayer flag towards the small village. We detoured first though, heading over a few rocky paths against the harsh icy wind until we found the giant circle of frozen water. My first frozen lake and glacier! Steam drifted up from the lake in the distance, from the bright afternoon sun. To the left was a semi frozen stream that had an incredible light blue florescent colour to it. I couldn’t resist taking a mouthful to drink, imagining that this glacier water was thousands of years old. At first a little nervous about walking on frozen water, then tepidly venturing further out onto the cracking shiny surface, I stared down in wonder as tiny jagged lines loudly cracked

racetamol did nothing for. I headed to bed early. By 1 am, I awoke to turn over in bed. Cold air is hard to sleep through. I pulled the sleeping bag hood over my head and tried to get back to sleep under my warm breath. Something was wrong though... no air! I thought the sleeping bag covering my head was the problem so I pulled it back. I inhaled deeply. No air. I gasped, sucking in empty coldness. I began breathing rapidly, shock was setting in fast and my heart started beating hard. I sat up, my body breaking out in a hot sweat of panic as I tried to breathe in as deeply as possible. A little air crept in, but it was not enough. My head started to spin a little as my mind raced and heart thumped loudly. It was the altitude, I had to get down. I sucked in deeply and drew what little air I could as I pulled my pants on and threw my arms into the

In just a single day’s walking, ice capped mountains started to appear larger and more majestic as we continued our forested ascent. alive under my weight near the edge. I was like a child on the ice. Manang was also where we met a few Koreans also trying to beat the snow to the top, one of whom was in bad shape. Altitude sickness had hit him hard. He was pale, sweaty and was throwing up every half hour. You would think this would serve as a warning to anyone. But with only one night in Manang, we headed off to the summit as Narayan was convinced it was already snowing up there. By now, we were truly in the middle of the Himalayas. Frozen waterfalls, streams and mountains were all around us by the time we hit Yak Kharka (4018m). I had a full on headache that Pa-

fleece. As I bent over to grab my boots I felt a little more air enter my chest. I started to catch more gasps of icy air. Making my way to the door I opened it and caught a blast of the freezing air and felt it fill my aching lungs. Breathing as deeply as possible I headed downstairs. I was breathing again. Back in my room a little later, I looked at the barometer: - 5.5 degrees. I was recovering, but my heart was still pounding. I decided to get back into bed, this time with my fleece on. I felt my heart continuing to pound. I couldn’t get back to sleep for fear of it happening again. My mind raced to distract myself from what had happened, or what might happen again.

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It had been a cold sleepless night. Looking at the map it seemed like Thorung high camp was only three hours away. Without a second day acclimatising at Manang, I felt it better to stay here. But the clouds were now moving faster though the brilliant blue sky. My headache had lessened and I had a choice to make. If we stayed and it snowed we could go no further as the pass would be blocked for weeks. It was my choice, so we moved on. The landscape was about as barren as it could get. Yet the sky was an incredible vivid blue colour and the snow capped mountains were postcard perfect. We passed by another landslide area and were pummelled by giant wild Nepalese sheep which sent pebbles firing down the rocky slope at us as we approached Thorung Phedi. We ate daal bhat again at high camp. My head pounded from the smell of kerosene. Outside, the wind was howling in the barren Martian terrain. I wrapped myself up with everything I had. We opened the double doors into the icy high speed wind and plunged ourselves upwards to the high camp at 4800 meters. It took us an hour 45 minutes to climb the mountain pass in the fierce freezing wind. We trudged through loose rocks, passed frozen water springs - its frozen icicles bent forward in little arrows from the high freezing winds. It was a silent ascent marked only by the wind’s howl and slipping rocks. Once inside the sunlit guest house, the temp was 0.1 degrees. Unfortunately the sun was about to disappear behind the mountains and by 7 pm it was -5 degrees. My 28 NOVEMBER 2009

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alarm went off at 4.45 am. The barometer measured -7.5 degrees in the room. I packed up everything and headed out into the dark night. The stars were shining so brightly, yet my attempts to photograph them failed as my hands were shaking so much from the cold freezing wind that was whipping around outside. By 5.30 we were off. Narayan took the lead using my head torch. Snow covered the whole area as we crunched upwards into the darkness. Large areas were covered in

frozen. I forced a smile at the thought. I trudged forward, scrambling over ice, rocks and snow. Mucus was freezing in my nose as I blew it out in heavy clumps. My head felt drunk from the altitude. I lost the path. Ahead I saw some stone pillars used as religious markers. I stumbled through some ice and fell into deep snow on the way up. This had to be it. I fumbled clumsily at my barometer which first flashed -20 then -23, then nothing. It was frozen. I looked around the white, snow covered landscape, the beauty of its desolation bypassing my

The landscape was about as barren as you could get. Yet the sky was an incredible vivid blue colour and the snow capped mountains were postcard perfect. thick ice making it difficult to traverse the steep slopes in the darkness. Worse still, the wind was blowing again and it bit into me like nothing I had felt before. I was shivering and needed to go faster to stay warm so I over took Narayan and headed up the barren snow mountain alone. My barometer measured -15 degrees. Dawn began to appear, and the mountains glistened like a spectacular icy dreamscape. I was hoping the sun’s rays would be warm, instead they brought with them even stronger freezing winds. My barometer faded in at -20 degrees. We were at 5200m.

frozen brain as I searched for a path in the icy tundra. Narayan called up to me from below, he had caught up. I followed him along the newly found trail.

I trudged on in the snow, tugging heavily at my scarf to keep the wind out. Parched from the freezing air, I stopped to take a drink. My first water bottle was frozen solid. I scrambled with numb fingers for my other bottle only to find it too was near frozen solid. With only a cup full of water left I felt the bottle crunch against my beard and realised it had formed icicles and had

I felt as though I had just survived one of the hardest things I ever had to accomplish. Many cross this pass throughout the year. Few also cross the pass at the coldest time of the year. Fewer still do it in thin African combats and only three layers with no extra acclimatisation days. Stupid or pushing the limits of oneself, either way; I had made it.

My beard crunched as I wiped frozen saliva from my mouth as we ascended the final part of the trail. Prayer flags fluttered in the wind around a small cabin. A large green and yellow sign board wrote “Congratulations for reaching the Pass. Do come again!” I took an altitude reading; 17120 feet or 5415 meters. We shook hands in the bitter wind and posed for photographs.

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COVERSTORY

Trekking in Nepal Where, When & Why Text by Utsav Shakya Photo Courtesy Explore Himalaya, Yeti Travels and Mr. Nabin Subedi

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The Joys of a Good Trek

Ah! The joys of trekking! Books

your lungs enjoying the crisp air,

could be written about the

your muscles slowly familiarizing

sheer joy of not just conquering

with new terrain.

a hilltop, but more importantly about the simple pleasures that

A trek gives you time to reflect, the

trekking up a hill offers. There is

serenity of the hills helping you to

a small list of things in life that

rethink decisions, the panoramic

can feel as wholesome as a good

views widening your own

trekking experience. A trek brings

perspectives. Your very soul is re-

you closer to nature, asking you

energized. Away from the mundane

to tread gently, noticing every

of every day, it is replenished with

rock, pebble and twig. Your body

every new sight, smell and feeling.

settles to a comfortable rhythm,

Put bluntly, trekking is the good life.

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But the question arises, why trek in Nepal? There are mountains worth climbing everywhere in the world and all of them would have great views to offer once you get to a certain height. Most mountains will surely offer a host of flora and fauna as well. So why not trek up a hill that is closer to home instead of flying all the way to the other side of the world, to Nepal despite warnings of political instability? And even though most foreigners pronounce the name of the country wrong, often saying ‘Nepaul’ instead of Nepal, those who have been here will come back again and again. But for first timers, the answer really is not in a sentence but rather spread out all over the many hills and mountains of this charmed country.

The Answers Bound by the high mountains of China to the North and the low plains of India to the South, Nepal is a geographic wonder. Similar in size to Cuba (800km long, 200km wide), Nepal has over 28,000 feet of altitude change within ninety miles. The terrain changes longitudinally from glaciers on the northern Tibetan border to the flat, greens of the Terai in the south, barely 150m above sea level. The country does not ascend gradually from the plains. Rather, it rises in several chains of hills that lie in an east-west direction, finally terminating in the highest mountains of the Himalaya, beyond which is the 5000m-high plateau of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). With eight of the world’s fourteen highest peaks, the Himalayas give Nepal the highest and densest collection of mountains in the world. Not only this but recent measurements show that the mountains are growing! Complementing the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest, Nepal also has the world’s deepest gorge, the Kali Gandaki. The system of valleys and rivers running through the Himalayas provides support to the spring melt from high peaks and the summer monsoon. One only needs to imagine the run off of snow from the world’s highest mountains to understand the opportunities awaiting the adventurer on Nepal’s wild rivers. Although the Himalayas may be Nepal’s most known geography, they are equally challenged in beauty and grandeur by the lowland Terai along Nepal’s southern border.

Here along the border with India, travelers can experience safaris through jungles and marshes home to over twenty endangered species. In Nepal’s Terai, it is not that uncommon to hear news of man-eating tigers or of rogue elephant herds trampling villagers and houses! Trekking in Nepal’s mountains is also a treat for bird watching enthusiasts with more than 800 species of birds known to exist here - more birds than in Canada and the USA combined or nearly 10% of the world’s bird species! Nepal’s dramatic array of geography gives rise to one of the world’s most dynamic range of climates with tropical jungle conditions to the South and ice capped mountains in the North. Within this range of climates, Nepal encompasses four seasons- autumn, winter, spring and monsoon. With each season comes different opportunities. During the winter, the high mountains are buried in heavy snow while the lower altitudes are perfect for exploration. With spring and the melting of snow, wildflowers abound abundantly throughout the hills and mountains painting the hillsides in vibrant arrays of color. Although the monsoon season blankets most of Nepal with rain from June till August, it gives rise to beautiful, crisp weather in the fall which is the optimal time for trekking in the Himalayas. However, the Nepalese mountains unlike most trekking destinations are open year

With eight of the world’s fourteen highest peaks, the Himalayas give Nepal the highest and densest collection of mountains in the world. Not only this but recent measurements show that the mountains are growing! 32 NOVEMBER 2009

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round. Trekking is possible any time of year depending on where you are going. The popular seasons are spring and autumn. During winter, trekking is possible at lower altitudes. During the monsoon season, you can trek in the rain shadow areas north of the Himalaya like Mustang, Upper Manang (Annapurna region) and Dolpo. These places are out of reach of the rain clouds because of the high mountains and are unaffected by the monsoons. The best part about trekking in this season is that the routes are less crowded and if you happen to be a keen amateur-botanist, you will revel in lush vegetation as meadows bloom in full swing. A lot of trekking companies today have also started to add a very important dimension to most trekking experiences. Whereas most trekkers will come back with stories of the places they reached and the sights they saw there, trekking in Nepal also has a rich cultural element attached to it. In the villages of the country through which the trails offer lead, trekkers will be able to experience firsthand, the culture, traditions, religious bent and hospitality of the Nepalese people. But precisely because of this diversity in geography as well as the luxury of choice, trekkers often have a hard time figuring out where to go, for what reasons and whether the trip will meet their, by now much hyped expectations. By breaking down some of the country’s more popular trekking routes, making this decision could be more of an informed choice than a random pick.

The Everest Experience The idea of trekking in the lap of Mount Everest, the roof of the world, brings trekkers from all over the world to Nepal. However, a lot of them come with the view that there is one amazing trail to be covered and great views to see. This then leads to a general confusion upon arrival when it is learnt that there are actually a number of amazing trails in this area, all of them offering an amazing, picture perfect trekking experience. The most popular three trails in this area do justice to giving you a complete Everest experience.

Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek 1

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A breathtaking view of Mt. Everest Sherpa Villages in Namche A Tibetan Monastery in the area

The Everest Base Camp trek is arguably the most famous trekking route in the world and provides you with opportunities to take in some truly amazing views from the roof of the world. The trek also gives an insight into the lives and culture of the Sherpa people who are local to the area and closely linked to the Tibetans on the other side of the summit. The view of the sunrise on the snow capped peaks above the Khumbu Glacier is an unforgettable sight from the summit of Kala Patthar. An EBC trek requires physical fitness as it demands some challenging climbs on the trail. A lot of the trail has well graded paths; however there are pretty tough sections along the Khumbu glacier where utmost care is required. Most trekkers fly to Lukla from the capital; the adventure beginning even before you land as the plane takes you right between hills and lands on a unique inclined landing strip. Most trekkers spend several days

trekking through Sherpa villages, a few even choose to stay in localsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; homes over traditional lodging facilities. While there, trekkers can visit Buddhist monasteries with distant views of Everest and the neighboring Ama Dablam, considered by many to be among the most beautiful mountains in Nepal. Namche Bazaar, the bustling market town in the heart of Solukhumbu district and Pheriche, a cluster of houses set among the high summer grazing pastures of the region are the most popular stops. Plenty time is allocated on most trekkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s itineraries for acclimatization giving trekkers the opportunity to explore the area. Those who have fully acclimatized trek to the Everest Base Camp but the highlight for most will be the awe-inspiring view which unfolds from the summit of Kala Patthar the chaotic ice sculptures of the Khumbu Glacier, Nuptse and the south-west face of Everest itself.

know before you go Places covered by the trip Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung, Kala Patthar, Everest Base Camp Min/Max Altitude 2840 m/5545m Trekking Grade Moderate to Fairly Strenuos Trek Duration Around 16 days Highlights of the trip Sherpa museum in Namche Bazaar/ Panoramic view from Syanbu-che/Sherpa culture in Khumjung village/Tyangboche Monastery/Great views from Kalapathhar and Khumbu ice fall from Everest Base Camp

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2 Gokyo Ri Trek

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View of Gokyo Lake from Gokyo Ri Everest from Gokyo Ri The long ridge between Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang (7952m) from the fourth Gokyo Lake. Panaromic View of Gokyo Ri

A popular trekking trail that uses alternate routes in the same area, the Gokyo Ri trek features the unbelievable scenery of the remote Gokyo Valley as well as complimentary views of turquoise lakes, huge glaciers, and stunning mountain vistas that include Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu four of the eight highest peaks on earth. The 360-degree view from Gokyo Ridge is lauded as the best in the Khumbu area. The beginning of this trek is the same as the trail to Everest Base Camp. Most trekking agencies will schedule two nights in the village of Namche Bazaar to acclimatize. Namche is considered the trading center for the Khumbu region, and people walk from as far away as Tibet Saturdays to sell their wares here. This is also the hub onto which each trail converges, so yaks and people compete for space in this amphitheater style city.

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After visiting Namche, the trail detours from the usual Everest trail and follows the river that originates from the Ngozumpa glacier. The next stop for most tour operators is in the village of Machhermo for a chance to rest or hike up Machhermo Ri. Trekkers will then finally move on to Gokyo Valley. A cluster of the most scenic cobalt blue lakes accompanies trekkers on the 3-hour hike to Gokyo Village. The village is located at the foot of Gokyo Ri (18,300 ft) - a huge black mound of rock and dirt. The following dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s itinerary takes you on a 3-hour trek to the summit of this black, rocky mound to witness the 360-degree Himalayan view offered only from this vantage point. The Himalayas here stand like giants guarding the border into Tibet. The view from Gokyo Ri offers you much more than just Mount Everest, with magnificent views of many of the other 8000-meter peaks.

know before you go Places covered by the trip Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung, Kala Pathhar, Everest Base Camp Min/Max Altitude 2840m/5383m Trekking Grade Moderate Trek Duration Around 14 days Highlights of the trip Explore Sherpa museum in Namche Bazaar/ Panoramic view from Syanbuche/ Experience Sherpa culture in Khumjung village/Ascend Gokyo Ri/Grand view of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama dablam

Everest Jiri Trek 1

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The trail gets crowded in the season Tengboche Monastery on the trail Rushing rivers fed vy the melting snow Scenic views of Everest Base Camp

Everest Jiri Trek, although relatively easy compared to some of the other treks in the area, takes you high up along the trail to Tengboche Monastery (3850m). Although short, the trek is no less scenic, offering superb views of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, Ama Dablam and many other. Also because most trekkers go through Lukla, the initial days on the trek are less crowded and thus even more charming. Instead of the usual flight to Lukla to access the district, the Everest Jiri trail starts with a six hour drive to Jiri (1905 meters). From here it is a gradual ascent up to Phakding at 2610 meters going through Shivalaya, Bhandar, Sete, Junbensi, Taksindo, Khari Khola and Payu on the way there. At the rate of about five to six hours every day, getting to Phakding from Jiri should take one about eight days. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another six hour trek to Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3535 meters from Phakding. Namche Bazaar is usually where trekkers take a day off to

acclimatize to the now thinning air. Also known as the gateway to Everest, the bazaar offers trekkers the first proper view of the same. There is also a museum here which trekkers can visit to better understand the place and the people who inhabit it. From here it is the conventional trail up to Gorak Shep again that will take most trekkers five days with a day of acclimatization in Dingboche. After going to Everest Base Camp and back, most trekkers trek up to Kala Patthar from where the views of the entire range are the best and stay the night at Zongla and then descend thereafter to Thagna and then finally to Gokyo (4790 m), setting up camp for at least two days here. The climb to Gokyo Ri (5483 m) is surely one of the highlights of this trip with the aforementioned breathtaking views of the Ngozumpa glacier , the whole Khumbu Himalayas - Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu (8481m), Cho Oyu (8153m) and Gychung Kang (7922m). The return trail is through Namche Bazaar to Lukla.

know before you go Places covered by the trip Lukla, Namche, Tyangbuche, Chhukung, Kala Pathhar, Everest Base Camp Min/Max Altitude 2840m/5545m Trekking Grade Fairly Strenuous Trek Duration Around 26 days Highlights of the trip Explore the Sherpa museum in Namche Bazaar/Panoramic view from Syanbuche/ Experience Sherpa culture in Khumjung village/ Ascend Gokyo Ri with grand view of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama dablam

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COVERSTORY

The Annapurna Trails Whereas the Everest region boasts of views from an altitude, attracting tourists even with its branding as the area to trek in, the Annapurna region pulls in equal if not more traffic from both domestic and international amateur trekkers. Because it is more accessible from the capital, a lot of trekkers opt for this region which offers everything from seriously tough terrain to easy trekking trails that offer idyllic village stays and panoramic views at a dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trekking distance from scenic Pokhara valley. The Annapurna region also offers the option of taking one of many trails to explore this area. These three trails summarize the Annapurna region well, letting you take in the views as well as a bit of culture and tradition on your trek.

Annapurna Circuit Trek 1

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The lush lap of Annapurna Poonhill Thorong La Pass Mt. Manaslu

know before you go Annapurna region is best described as the most happening trekking destination of Nepal. The trek is highly recommended by all trekkers as a spectacular trekking route in the Annapurna region since it opened to foreign trekkers in 1977. This three weeks trek starts right from Besishahar and goes along the Marshyangdi River, with great views of Manashlu and Himal Chuli to the east. The trail also leads you through villages inhabited by a wide diversity of people from different ethnic groups, all surrounded by the majestic Himalayas on most sides. As the trail continues to the north of the main Himalayan range on to

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the high and dry Tibetan Plateau, the scenery only gets better. The highest point of the trek is Thorung La pass at the top of the valley at 5416 meters. Due to the difficulties of crossing the pass, the circuit is usually traversed in a counter clockwise direction. Traveling clockwise, the longer ascent and short descent from the west to the east is too much for most trekkers to manage in a single day. The crossing of the Thorung La pass - surrounded by some of the most magnificent mountains - is in itself a very challenging ascent.

Places covered by the trip Besishar, Manang, Throung La Pass, Muktinath, Tatopani (natural hotspring), Ghorepani Poonhill, Ghaundrung village, Pokhara Min/Max Altitude 830m/5316m Trekking Grade Moderate and Fairly Strenuous Trek Duration Around 21 days Highlights of the trip The high points of the trek entails crossing of the 5414m high Throng Pass, from the arid valley of the upper Manang, home of Tibetan Buddhists, down to the Hindu pilgrimage site of Muktinath, and the Kali Gandaki valley, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deepest river gorge, before heading down to Pokhara. Besides the mountain views, there are a variety of mountain communities of the Gurung, Manangi and Thakali people that offer a rich cultural experience. Poon hill, after crossing Ghorepani, is another popular site, for the views on offer as well for star gazing.

2 Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek 1

know before you go Places covered by the trip Pokhara, Ghorepani, Poonhill, Machhapuchhre Base Camp, Annapurna Base Camp, Ghaundrung village Min/Max Altitude 910m/4090m Trekking Grade Moderate Trek Duration Around 14 days Highlights of the trip Terraced farmland above Pokhara/Inner sanctuary of Annapurna/ Panoramic views of ten peaks over 6000m/Views of Dhaulagiri and the Kali Gandaki from Poon Hill/Scenic villages and farmland at Ghandruk set against the panorama of high peaks/Natural hot spring at Jhinudanda.

Annapurna base camp trek is another very popular trekking trail. The principal peaks of the western portion of the great Annapurna Himal, including Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Fang, Annapurna, Ganagapurna, Annapurna 3 and Machhapuchhare, are arranged almost precisely in a circle about 10 miles in diameter with a deep glacier-covered

amphitheater at the center. From this glacier basin, known as the Annapurna Sanctuary, the Modi Khola (river) drives its way south in a narrow gorge which is 12,000 ft. at its deepest point. Further south, the gorge opens up into a wide and fertile valley, domain of the Gurung community. The middle and upper portions of the Modi Khola offer some of the

best short trekking routes in Nepal. The valley is located conveniently so that treks into the Kali Gandaki in the west can be combined with the ABC trek easily. In spite of the great heights of the surrounding peaks and ice walls, the valley floor between 12,000 and 14,000 ft. can provide comfortable camping spots in good weather.

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The amazing view of Annapurna from Base Camp Mt. Dhaulagiri from Ghandruk Mt. Machhapuchhre from Ghandruk Northwest face of Annapurna

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Annapurna Jomsom Muktinath Trek 1

The Jomsom Muktinath area is to the north of Pokhara. Nepal’s spectacular diversity appears at its finest here. The deep valleys and high mountains encircling the giant Annapurna, embraces a variety of climates, from subtropical jungles to high and dry landscapes that resemble the Tibetan Plateau. This is the most popular trekking region in Nepal, attracting over 75% of all trekkers. It’s also among the tamest areas, with excellent lodges lining the main routes. Finding Nepal beneath the flood of trekkers can be difficult, but the scenery and culture are top-notch, and even if one is to avoid the peak-season crush, the weather is mostly fine, as are the views. The views of the mountains are spectacular with the route actually crossing to the other side of the main Himalayan range for some unusual views of the northern flanks. Because the area is pretty dry even in the monsoon season, a lot of people opt to go to the Hindu pilgrimage site of Mukti-

nath with its line of 108 water spouts during the off seasons. Bathing under these bull shaped spouts supposedly washes off pilgrims’ sins. The place is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists and is located at an altitude of 3710 meters at the foot of the Thorung La Pass. Tibetan Buddhist texts state that Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism once meditated at Muktinath on his way to Tibet. Also, the waterway downstream from Muktinath along the Kali Gandaki River is the source of all silas or shaligrams that are required to establish a temple of Vishnu anywhere in the world.

This is the most popular trekking region in Nepal, attracting over 75% of all trekkers.

know before you go Places covered by the trip Pokhara, Jomsom, Muktinath, Tatopani/ Ghorepani/ Poon hill/ Ghaundrung village Min/Max Altitude 910m/3802m Trekking Grade Moderate Trek Duration Around 14 days Highlights of the trip Explore beautiful Kagbeni village/ Pilgrimage town of Muktinath/View of Dhawalagiri Ice flow - world’s deepest gorge/ Kaligandaki valley/ Natural hot spring at Tatopani/ Sunrise view from Poon Hill

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Village of Kagbeni Kali Gandaki Gorge Muktinath Temple, holy pilgrimage for Hindus and Buddhists Sunrise view of Mt. Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill

The LANGTANG TRAILS Langtang valley trekking is one of the most popular trekking routes in the Langtang region offering superb Himalayan views of Mount Lantang Lirung, Ganesh Himal, Naya kanga, Gyachungkhang, Yala peak, Tibetan Himal and Annapurna Himalaya range. Also on offer are sightings of wild animals such as leopards, pandas, ghoral , tharal, mountain thar, monkeys, musk deer and birds namely pheasants (Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national bird), longtail, sparrows and the Himalayan dove. Langtang valley trekking gives you the opportunity to get right in among the Himalayan peaks and to get off-the-beatentrack, walking through some fascinatingly remote and relatively unpopulated areas. It also passes through changing climates and offers trekkers an exceptional diversity of scenery and culture. Altitudes of 4984m (Tsesku Ri) are reached, and a reasonable level of physical fitness is necessary to comfortably complete Langtang valley trek. The trekking starts with an overland journey to Dunche, the main trading post of the area. From here, it takes five days to trek up through this beautiful alpine valley to Kyangjin where most trekkers rest for a day, exploring and observing the mountains and the glacier systems. The treks in the Langtang valley and the famed Gosaikunda trail are most popular amongst amateur and professional trekkers.

Langtang Valley Trek 1

1. 2.

Langtang Range Kyangin Gompa

know before you go Places covered by the trip Dhunche/ Lama Hotel/ Langtang Village/ Kyanjin Gompa

The trek starts from the lower Langtang Valley and moves up through its forests, numerous villages and farmlands of its people, many of whom are of Tibetan origin. Once an important trading route with Tibet, this influence is reflected in the character of the villages and the people here. A part of the trek takes trekkers through the National Park here, and though wildlife is never easy to spot in forest settings, sightings of some rare birds and animals cannot be ruled out. Among those found in the park are monkeys, musk deer, pika and the national bird of Nepal, the colorful danphe.

From Langtang village, the trail continues to Kyangjin Gompa (3,740 m), site of the popular Yala cheese factory. There is a STOL airstrip at Chhaldang, a short distance east of Kyangjin. Visits to the cheese factory, perhaps the cheese factory at the highest altitude, and the small lakes beyond Yala are worthwhile. Yala can be reached within half a day from Kyangjin Gompa. From this gompa, a continued trek to the pastures of Langsisa (4084 m) provides great views of numerous glaciers. There are also some huts in Langsisa that can be reached within a dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s walk from Kyangjin Gompa.

Min/Max Altitude 1950m/5122m Trekking Grade Moderate to Fairly Strenuous Trek Duration Around 8 days Highlights of the trip Tibetan village in Langtang/Amazing views of Langtang Ri and Ganesh Himal/ Ascend Chorkari Ri (5050m)/Panoramic view of 10 peaks that are over 6000m/ Spectacular views of the ice fluted Gyanghempo/Crossing the Ganjala Pass (5122m)/ Helambu valley.

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2 Langtang Gosaikunda Trek

The Langtang Gosaikunda trek combines the remote and spectacular valley of Langtang, with the high mountain lakes at Gosainkunda. Trekkers are encouraged to trek to the Langtang National Park and then to the end of the valley to view the wonderful mountains views. Following the Trisuli River north out of Kathmandu, trails go through Trisuli Bazaar and Dhunche to Syabrubensi, a Sherpa village located at the very edge of the park. The trail then swings east into the Langtang valley, crossing the river several times as the paths moves along a gorge-like, lower section of the valley. Oak and rhododendron forests line the trek as well as views of cross glacial moraine on

the way to Tamang villages here.

know before you go

A little further up the valley is Kyangin Gompa, where most trekkers stay overnight. The yak cheese tasting here is quite popular too. The trail passes through Nubamatang, nestled in a hidden valley, on the way up for a view of the glaciers, which mark the gateway into Tibet. Backtracking, trekkers travel through Syabru and Sing Gompa to a high plateau, where the sacred lake Gosainkunda is located. Crossing the Laurebena Pass (4610m) and continuing south, the trail leads away from the Langtang region behind us, and through the Helambu valley into Gul Bhanjyang.

Places covered by the trip Dhunche, Lama Hotel, Langtang Village, Kyanjin Gompa, Gosaikunda, Singompa, Lauribinayak Pass, Chisopani, Sundarijal Min/Max Altitude 1950m/5122m Trekking Grade Moderate to Fairly Strenuous Trek Duration Around 14 days Highlights of the trip Tibetan village at Langtang, Amazing views of Langtang Ri/Ganesh Himal/ Lang Sisa/Ascent of Chorkari Ri (5050m)/ Panoramic views of 10 peaks over 6000m/ Spectacular views of the ice fluted Gyanghempo/Crossing the Ganjala Pass at 5122m/Walk through the Helambu valley

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Gosainkunda: Holy site for Pilgrimage Langsisha from the trail Chhorten on a trail and Mt. Langtang on background

When to go The best season for treks in Nepal is from September to early December as well as the post winter trekking season from mid-February to the first week of June. The winter season from September to early December is an ideal time for the best mountain views. The days are typically sunny and clear with moderate temperatures and the evenings are usually quite cold. On most days, trekkers can even get by in just t-shirts and shorts. Warm clothes that can field the Himalayan cold are an absolute necessity for the mornings, evenings and the nights. From the middle of February until the first part of June, temperatures get warmer by10° -15° warmer than in the

Head Gear fall. The mornings are bright and clear with the air slowly becoming hazier as the day progresses. The rhododendron forests in springtime are spectacular, with color displays that are unique to this area. June is warm and green with fewer people, the sense of solitude much greater than other seasons. However, the days from July to August lie in the Monsoon period in Nepal. Sudden rainfall that can last for a week is normal. The good news however is that trekking in rain shadow areas such as Mustang, Rara, Dolpo, Annapurna circuit, Langtang valley, Everest base camp and Gokyo valley respectively make for great alternatives.

Packing for Trekking The key words here are light and multipurpose. Most trekkers make a huge checklist of essentials and pack in way too much than they need to. This only adds to the weight that they will need

to carry with them up the mountain. A lot of essentials are available on the trail itself with shops catering specifically to trekkers. A condensed checklist like this one should be more than necessary.

• • • •

Sun hat Scarf Warm fleece hat Sunglasses with UV protection

Clothing • • • • • • • • • • • •

T-shirts x 2 Light & expedition weight full body thermals Fleece jacket or pullover Waterproof jacket Down vest and/or jacket Underwear x 4 Hiking shorts (2) Lightweight hiking long pants Lightweight gloves Thin, lightweight inner sock liners (2) Thick, warm wool hiking socks (3) Worn in hiking boots and spare laces

Accessories • • • • • • • • • • •

Sleeping bag rated to 0 degrees F Headlamp w/ spare bulbs and batteries Duffle bag and small lock Basic First Aid Kit Large plastic bags Daypack (approx. 2500 to 3000 c.i.) Thermarest sleeping pad One liter water bottles x 2 Toiletries Small quick drying towels Trekking poles (optional)

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TREKIT

Shall We Trek? Too often we get caught up with staying warm and safe when we head into the hills. But today’s clotheslines aimed at trekkers combine the smart with the safe.

Rucksack 55+10 lts. Trekking rucksack with flash system 100% water proof backpack. Perfect fit due to the individually adjustable Twist2Fit hipbelt and easy to adjust torso length with softly padded shoulder straps. Rs. 16,350

Cap

Jacket

A cap with distinct glow in the dark inserts made from fluorescent fabric for additional safety. Adjustable mesh inserts for ventilation – made up of synthetic nylon. Rs: 2,250

The combination of wind resistant, inner brushed fabric with highly stretchy inserts for freedom of motion. Light as a feather and enormously compactable, this jacket packs a punch. The Ceplex active coating ensures reliable weather protection and a comfortable micro-climate. Rs. 5,780

Sleeping bag Lightweight 3-season down sleeping bag featuring body contoured mummy design and an extra protection thermal collar for optimal temperature regulation. Water proof and breathable fiber for an excellent inner microclimate. Rs. 25,000

Bum Bag Lightweight lumbar pack with bottle holder, it stays in place with non-slip prints on the padded back. Also with small zip pocket and light attachment. Rs 1,500

Pants Rugged yet superbly comfortable climbing pants with slim cut, stretch material and water resistant finish. This multipurpose pant is made up of synthetic nylon for a cool and comfortable feel. Rs. 3,980

Mattress Combined air mattress and selfinflating ground pad with 2 airbags. Light weight and comfortable. Rs 12,950

Water bottle Poly carbonated drinking bottle with large opening and push-pull cap. Rs. 1,150

Shoes Tent Optimally ventilated, it also offers “foolproof” pitching. The durable flysheet is made from weatherproof, PU-coated polyester, holding up well under heavy rains, and a cleverly devised ventilation system for comfortable sleeping climate. Rs. 27,500

Meal Kit 6 pieces set it comes with two split free cup and a combo set. Rs. 2,320

Trekking Kits Courtesy: VAUDE, Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel.: 4445447

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Meindal Gore Tax Hiking Shoes features especially developed MFS (Memory Foam System) for support and comfort. The foam softens from the foot temperature and adjusts perfectly to the foot. With shock absorbing Meindl AirActive footbed it is completely waterproof and made up of breathable Gore-Tex® linin. Rs. 17,500

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globaltreasure

bangkok A paradise for tourists of all kinds; culture junkies, architecture fanatics, romantics, the pious, history geeks and shopaholics. Text by Darshan Shakya Photos Courtesy: Ravin Bajracharya

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Thailand has become a most-talked-about tourist destination. And why should it not? A plethora of exotic and culturally distinctive destinations is spread throughout its 76 provinces, and those who travel to Thailand know that every part of Thailand and every experience on a Thailand holiday will be unique and fulfilling. The adventure activities, the breathtaking beaches, the rich culture and heritage, not to mention the insuperable shopping experience and the infamous pampering -especially that Thai Massage- comprise a holiday you will not forget easily. In fact, there are so many must-see places in Thailand, and so many must-do activities in Thailand, that we could easily fill a whole book. Which is why, this time, the focus is on the one place any Thailand holiday would be incomplete without: the city famed for its fantastic shopping opportunities, incredible cultural landmarks and vibrant nightlife, any Thailand tour’s crown jewel: Bangkok. Presenting, the 8 Bangkok hotspots not to be missed.

Grand Palace

A trip to Bangkok would be left disappointingly incomplete without visiting the city’s most famous landmark: The Grand Palace. Living up to its name, this palace offers a jaw-dropping display of beautiful architecture and intricate detail; it is a monument to the awe-inspiring creativity and craftsmanship of the Thai people. The Palace also houses the Wat Phra Keuw (temple of the Emerald Budhha), the most important Buddhist temple in Thailand. Numerous galleries await the tourist inside the Palace complex, unquestionably a feast for the eyes. And then there is the impressive Dusit Hall, rated as perhaps the finest architectural building in its style. The many parts of the Grand Palace, from the Entrance Hall to the Upper Terrace, will have tourist swoonings. A grand, grand palace indeed. There is one thing that the tourist must keep in mind, though. The Grand

Palace is Thailand’s most sacred site, and one must adhere to a strict dress code to be allowed entry to the temple. Men must wear long pants and shirts with sleeves and women must be modestly dressed. See through clothes, bare shoulders and the like are not tolerated. Also, socks must be

worn: bare feet are a violation of the dress code. However, if the tourist does show up at the front gate inappropriately dressed, a booth is available near the entrance that can provide clothes in the proper code. A deposit, of course, is required.

Reclining Buddha From the most sacred Buddhist Temple to the image of the Buddha himself: the Wat Pho [Temple of the Reclining Budhha] is another must-see for Bangkok tourists. It is no wonder that this is the largest Wat (Buddhist temple) in Bangkok, for it houses the largest image of the Budhha. The highly impressive gold plated reclining Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters high, and is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. The feet and the eyes are engraved with mother-of-pearl decoration, and the feet also show the 108 auspicious characteristics of the true Buddha.

The Wat Pho is also known for two other things: First, it contains the largest number of Buddha images compared to any other temple. Second, it is the best -and highly recommended- place to receive a traditional Thai massage. Prospective clients should be aware, though, that the massage isn’t exactly a gentle experience. Traditional massage here cost 150B for 30 minutes, 250B for an hour and herbal massages are available at 350B an hour. A foot reflexology massage is also available at 250B for 45 minutes.

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Erawan Museum

The phrase “dream come true” is symbolized and brought to reality in the Erawan Museum. A splendid, towering beast, 250 tons in weight, 29 metres high, 39 metres long, and cast in a pure green-hued copper, it is a most majestic image of Hindu mythology’s Airavata (the three headed elephant deity), and a museum unique. The museum is divided into three levels, symbolizing the three-tiered cosmology of the Hindu-Thai Buddhist concept of Tribhumi. The basement level represents the Underworld, where the Nagas dwell. This level presents exhibitions concerning the

background and establishment of Erawan Museum, in addition to antique displays. The Hall represents the Human World, with exquisite interior decoration inside the dome-shaped architecture reflecting a harmonious blend of Eastern and Western art. The top level -the belly of the beastsymbolizes Tavatimsa Heaven. This in Buddhist cosmology is said to be where sacred beings, including elephant deity Aira-

vata, congregate. It presents to the viewer a solemn serenity of Buddha images - a walking Buddha and eight more in a variety of postures - oddly offset by lurid abstract art that lines the concave walls, and depicts the solar system. This majestic museum, once a billionaire’s dream, is now a reality, one that the tourist can -and should- enjoy.

5 Safari World Only a one-hour drive from Bangkok city is wilderness on exhibition: a Park called Safari World. The park is divided into two parts: the Marine Park and the Safari Park.

Dream World

When was the last time you were a child? Who cares!!! Dreamworld caters to both the young and the young at heart, for it is an amusement park extraordinaire. This is a big American-style theme park with all the trimmings. Corkscrew, Bumping Cars, Swinging Viking Boat, Rollercoaster – they are all there, and more! Dream World even has a full fledged go-kart track and ‘Snow Land’ – a display of artificial snow (although this attraction is not included in the main ticket fee). Like we mentioned before, if you’ve got kids, YOU wouldn’t want to miss the Safari Park. And if you’ve got kids, THEY wouldn’t let you miss Dream World. A full day of nothing but fun- a break from all that culture and heritage, and so much to do that you won’t leave this amusement park until all your energy -or your kids’ energyis used up. You might want to go straight to bed later, though.

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Housing a vast spectrum of animals from the land, sea and air, the Marine Park sets the scene for 8 amazing world class shows. Be they live stunts or animal performances, the Marine Park is undoubtedly one of the greatest shows on Earth -and interestingly, it is as educational as it is entertaining. If you’ve got kids with you, you wouldn’t want to miss this park.

The Safari Park is more of a regular park than an exhibition, but it is the only drive through zoo in the whole of Bangkok. One can take one’s own car or ride the mini-coach up close to these wild creatures and the thrill of the feeding show. There’s something indescribable about encountering wildlife like the Safari Park experience; it is one experience you will regret not taking.

Chao Phraya River Cruise Dinner

Now here’s something you don’t see everyday: a restaurant boat that cruises along some of the most beautiful sites on the planet today. i.e., the Chao Phraya River Cruise Dinner. As you cruise slowly along the Chao Phraya River you will pass The Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) and the Grand Palace complex which both provide sensational twilight photo opportunities; it is guaranteed to be a memorable 2.5 hour evening cruise. Watch and ponder about the life along the

river, as the Thai people wind up and are on, to some of amazing local food.

7 Wat Arun

Sitting majestically on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the legendary Wat Arun is one of the most striking riverside landmarks of Thailand. The name Wat Arun literally means Temple of the Dawn, but ironically, the most spectacular view of the glittering monument can be seen from the east side of the river at sunset, when the spires of Wat Arun make an impressive silhouette against the skyline. There are some restaurants on the opposite side of the river that are good for watching this, though one would be lucky to see the image of Wat Arun that’s on all the postcards - that of a red sky sunset with the sun setting directly behind the temple.

described by the Tourism Authority of Thailand as 104m high, while most other sources quote figures around 80-85m. It is decorated by bits of porcelain which had previously been used as ballast by boats coming to Bangkok from China, a hallmark of the reign of King Rama III.

The Wat Arun consists of a massive elongated prang (Khmer-style tower), and is surrounded by four smaller prangs. The central prang is topped with a seven-pronged trident, referred to by many sources as the trident of Lord Shiva himself. The prang is

Although the Wat really looks better from a distance than close up, its grounds are fairly pleasant and peaceful, with good murals and a main Buddha image supposedly designed by King Rama II. The mythical guardians here are also quite impressive.

8 Ancient Siam

Even so, we recommend getting there by the river. The Tha Tien express boat pier, at the southwest corner of the Grand Palace / Wat Phra Kaew, is opposite Wat Arun and boats leave every few minutes. Believe us, it’s the best way to visit the temple, and you will not regret it.

how to get there? to be found here, some of which are hard to come by nowadays. This is THE place to visit if you're interested in Thailand's culture and heritage, and if you're keen on learning about the roots of the Thai, there is no better place to be. Regardless, Ancient Siam is another must-see destination for anyone who plans on visiting Bangkok.

Both direct and connecting flights are available for the journey from Kathmandu to Bangkok. One can take the direct flight offered by Thailand’s own Thai Air International or that of our own airlines, Nepal Airlines. Or, one can take a connecting flight. There are flights offered to Bangkok via Delhi by Jet Airlines and Indian Airlines as well as flights that connected to Bangkok via Dhaka. Of course, the thing with connecting flights is the transit time. Tourist be ‘warned’, transit may take upto 8 hours.

When to get there? Ancient Siam is known as the world's biggest outdoor museum, for it is a piece of history itself. With scaled down as well as full size replicas of Siam's original structures, it is best described as a nutshell of Thailand's past and present -and according to some, even the future. Furthermore, there are rare traditional folk arts and cultures

April and May are the hottest months of the year, when even the locals are moved to complain about the heat. June sees the beginning of the South West Monsoon, and brings with it the rainy season, which continues intermittently until the end of October. From November to the end of February the climate is much less trying with a cooling North East breeze and a reduction in the humidity level. This is also the main tourist season, and the best time to visit Thailand. If you intend to avoid Tourist season however, you’ve got to beat the heat.

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personalityreview

An h UR WITH

Tashi Tenzing Sherpa Grandson of Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous mountaineer reminisces about growing up with a famous grandfather and why his book on the Sherpa people was necessary.

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Years after Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary triumphantly scaled the great Mount Everest; the legacy of Tenzing is being carried on by his grandson Tashi Tenzing Sherpa. With three ascents of the world’s highest peak under his belt, Tashi has rightfully gained his own share of fame and honor in the mountaineering world. Tashi was born in Darjeeling, India on 30 November, 1965, the youngest son of Tenzing Norgay’s eldest daughter Pem Pem. Since his childhood, he emulated his grandfather’s love of mountain exploration and has managed to maintain this quest by researching and leading many treks and expeditions. Tashi is now a successful businessman, author, mountain climber, guide and more importantly a humanitarian. He motivates corporations and organizations with his knowledge, his work ethic, focus and the determination of his people, the Sherpas of Mount Everest. Tashi is married to Bandi Nima Tenzing and together they run their successful travel agency in Kathmandu–Tenzing Asian Holidays – which specializes in treks, tours and expeditions across the Himalayas in Nepal and in India, Tibet, Bhutan and even Antarctica. Below is a brief tête-à-tête with the man himself. Name Tashi Tenzing Sherpa

How did you feel growing up with such a famous grandfather? Every grandfather and grandson shares a special relationship. I never contemplated that my grandfather was famous. I used to ask my mother to show me who the great Tenzing Sherpa was but I was surprised to find out that the famed Tenzing was the same man who woke me up every morning. For me he was just my grandfather. After my mother told me stories about his feats, I was taken aback and only then realized that my grandfather was no ordinary man; he was the Tenzing Sherpa, the first to step on Everest, the third pole of the world. Not everybody has such vision at the age of 12 but I knew then and there that I wanted to be a climber just like my grandfather. I was really inspired by him and wanted to follow in his footsteps. Tenzing is a great family name and I am proud to be associated with this legacy. I never wanted to ride on my grandfather’s coat tails. I remember my grandfather as a very humble man; he was fascinating and gave me lot of inspiration. I am very proud of him.

Can you please tell us a little about the work you do? Tenzing Asian Holidays caters to a small select group of clientele and we try to give them the best facilities available. I think most of us are selling Nepal cheaply and catering to budget tourism. Thamel, the hub of trekking and tourism is getting clogged and losing its charm. We have the expertise and the knowledge and the facilities too. My question is, why should we charge so less? We have knowledgeable people here, the highest mountains of the world, and the best sceneries, why should we compromise with the prices? I think it is high time the people in the

Date of Birth 30 Nov, 1965

I never wanted to ride on my grandfather’s coat tails. West perceive Nepal as one of the top class destinations of the world.

What are the future plans regarding your work? Collaborating with Yeti Holidays, we are planning to commence our project of sky trekking. Yeti Holidays is bringing in two new PC 6 Otters aircrafts. We will be taking clients who are unable to go on a treacherous hike literally from one end to another in Nepal, focusing on the eight highest mountains of the world in Nepal. We will visit beautiful pristine areas like Simmikot, Rara lake, Shey Phoskdundo Lake, Jomsom, Mustang, Langang and Everest. For 12 days, they will get to see the full glory of the Himalayas while I tell them about the history and the culture of people and places they will visit. This is going to be a first in Nepal and I believe it has a niche market.

What are your thoughts on Nepal Tourism Year 2011? Frankly speaking, before aiming to bring in one million tourists to Nepal, I think we need to do extensive research. Do we have the logistics, the infrastructure that a million people will need? We certainly cannot accommodate such a huge number with the available infrastructure. I think it is better not to focus on numbers but to concentrate on the services that we are providing. We need to promote areas that are still pristine and pure that people do not know about rather than just focusing on Everest

Educational Qualification Graduate in Sociology Interests and Hobbies Traveling, photography, trekking, mountaineering, wild life enthusiast, outdoor activities, adventure sports, art & craft, books and environmental / social development related sector / motivational speaking / Running and fitness training and Playing guitar and tennis Other information • Runs own specialist Himalayan trek & expeditions and tour company in Nepal with wife Nima Tenzing. This includes a consultancy service for the Himalayan regions and outdoor skills and survival courses for high school students. • Author of the book Tenzing and the Sherpa’s of Everest : PUBLISHED BY HAPPER COLLINS SYDNEY AUSTRALIA (Ragged Mountain Press USA 2001) • Patron for ICIMOD Nepal from 2008 onwards. SUMMARY OF ACHIEVEMENTS • Graduate of St Paul’s Anglican School, Darjeeling • Recipient of Duke of Edinburgh’s Gold Award • Bachelor of Arts Degree, Delhi University • Fully qualified Mountaineering Instructor – trained at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling • Leader of Australian International Everest Expedition, 1993 with two mountaineers summiting • Member of 1997 Tenzing Everest Expedition - Tashi reached the summit on 23rd May • Recipient of the National Citizen’s Award of India from the President of India, February 1998 • Member of Australian Antarctic Research Expedition, Aug 1998 to May 1999 • Co-author (with wife Judy) of the book Tenzing and the Sherpas of Everest - Published worldwide in 2001/2002 • Member of Swiss 50th Anniversary Everest Expedition May 2002. Reached summit with Yves Lambert May 16, 2002 • Member of the Kennedy Miller Production & Warner Brother unit to shoot photographs of Antarctica landscape and wildlife for 5 months in the Antarctica region from October 2002 to February 2003 to make a feature film which was released worldwide in December 2006. The film was called ‘HAPPY FEET”.

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He didn’t climb Everest to be the first man to summit, but because of his love for the mountain. and Annapurna. Places like Simikot, Humla, and Dolpo are very beautiful but the government has placed high royalty in these places, so budget travelers cannot afford to go there. If the government were to subsidize these royalties and only charge the national park entrance fee, more people would visit without clogging Mt. Everest and Annapurna. Bardia National Park is another beautiful place that is suffering because of shortage of lodges. I think we need to work together to utilize our resources well. There should be strict rules planned out before taking impetuous decisions.

What inspired you to write ‘Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest’? Everyone who has climbed Everest has written a book about it. Many of the books however do not mention the Sherpa people even though successful ascents are largely attributed to these people. The Sherpas are born and raised in the shadows of the Himalaya and this is a part of my culture - part of who I am. I also had my mother’s journal where she kept her record of traveling accounts with her father. These were very interesting so I thought of sharing them. In my book I have brought out the perspective of the Sherpa people. This is their story, dealing with their physiology, their culture and what makes them maestros in climbing treacherous mountains that every one fears.

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Now the book has been translated into 15 languages. This book is my tribute to the immense contribution of the Sherpas, including my grandfather, to Himalayan exploration and mountaineering.

How did it feel to finally summit Everest in 1997 and twice later? It was exhausting (laughs). No, but really it was a relief. I had attempted to summit in 1993 to mark the 40th anniversary of the first successful expedition by Tenzing and Sir Edmund. But I had to descend 400m from the top due to snow blindness. However the desire to climb Everest remained in my heart. Going back again in 1997, I was finally able to summit Everest. I had looked forward to the day since my childhood and I could feel the adrenaline rushing in my veins. It was around 6:30 in the morning when we finally reached the summit. We saw the sun rising and the moon setting. The most beautiful part of summiting is that you can see that the earth is round from that height. You can really see its curvature. It was a wonderful feeling of achievement. Everest has been very kind and welcoming to me as all my three expeditions have been clear and beautiful. In 2002, I made my second ascent of Everest with the Swiss Rolex 50th Anniversary team to commemorate the gallant attempts of 1952 by Tenzing Norgay and Raymond Lambert. I reached the summit with Yves Lambert to fulfill the dream of a father and grandfather. Then in 2007, I scaled Everest for the third time, from the Tibetan side this time.

What are your fondest memories of your grandfather? He used to come really early into our home and used to get angry if we were

not already awake. Once I was on a trekking trip with him and my uncle in upper part of Sikkim for 14 days. One day a huge number of yaks came charging down at us. We were really terrified but my grandfather ran towards them and shouted and they stopped miraculously. This incident might sound astounding and incredible, but the fact is that Tenzing had been around yaks all his life. He understood them well. He used to herd yaks since he was 8 years old and he knew their language. He was a very humble man, he had absolutely no ego. He didn’t climb Everest to be the first man to summit, but out of love for the mountain.

Tell us a little about your travels. I love traveling. Personally, I believe traveling broadens one’s horizons. I have traveled to many places; the Himalayan region of Nepal and India to Pakistan, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. I have been to South America, Germany, Switzerland and Antarctica. Antarctica is one of my favorite destinations. Another place I would like to go to is to Africa to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest peak there.

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hEALTHTIMES

heal hy on a trek S taying

Text by Dr. Ravi Shankar

Trekking for most individuals is the holiday of a lifetime. Most have a wonderful time and return fitter and healthier. In this article I will try and list out the various ailments which can afflict you while trekking and how to minimize their occurrence. Before I go on to specific conditions let me put things in perspective. I have been trekking in Nepal for about ten years and have been on 25 treks and till date have been ill only twice. The clean mountain air, the beautiful scenery and the fresh wholesome food have a beneficial effect on health. Leaving Kathmandu healthy

Stomach problems

Most trekking guides mention leaving the Kathmandu healthy as a major challenge for a trekker. Due to poor water quality, improper food handling and preparation methods, the chances of contracting a stomach ‘bug’ are high in Kathmandu. The dust and air pollution can worsen lung diseases. Eat only in recommended restaurants and drink only properly boiled water. Also pay attention to the cleaning of eating and drinking utensils. Avoid green salads and uncooked food to be on the safer side.

Third world developing countries like Nepal have problems keeping out feces from the water supply. All water especially at low altitudes should be regarded as contaminated and treated before drinking. Chemical disinfectants like iodine and chlorine can be used. Allow at least half an hour for disinfection. Ultraviolet pens are also being used. These methods may not work well if the water is turbid or there is organic matter. Boiling is a good method and bringing the water to a rolling boil for about 30 seconds is enough to kill most disease causing organisms even at high altitudes.

‘Healthy’ trekking Over the years I have developed a set of rules for trekking which have served me well. Ascend slowly with plenty of ‘standing’ breaks of about a minute. The rest step while climbing has been strongly recommended. Your body gradually warms up while trekking and if you take a prolonged ‘sitting’ break then you lose the advantage of warming up. I would recommend not more than three prolonged breaksOne for lunch and two for tea. Descend slowly using a strong walking stick or ski pole for support. Protect your knees and resist the temptation to rush down the mountain like locals. Absorb impacts on a bent knee. Use a trekking boot with ankle support and ensure you ‘break in’ your boots before going on a trek.

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First aid kit Ensure that you or someone in your team has a first aid kit. Most books recommend you carry moleskin (difficult to obtain in Nepal), adhesive bandages, elastocrepe bandages, a thermometer, two or three long wooden scale for use as a splint, antihistamines, pain killers, antimotility agents, antibiotics, ORS, antiprotozoals, sunscreen preparations with a high sun protection factor (SPF), acetazolamide for altitude sickness and antibiotic eye drops. I would also recommend two prefilled syringes loaded with the steroid dexamethasone. This can be life saving if you develop problems at altitude.

Trekking lodges take a lot of care with their food preparation and hygiene. Most food is prepared fresh. Be careful with meat. I would recommend that your main food be the Nepalese staple of dal bhaat (lentils and rice) with vegetables. This food supplies plenty of carbohydrates and proteins and also replaces fluid losses. Do not drink hard liquor while trekking. Beer or wine may be safe if taken in moderation.

Ultraviolet protection The air at altitude is clean, clear and there is lesser thickness of the atmosphere above you. The ultraviolet rays are stronger and can damage the skin, especially in fair individuals. Ensure your face, neck, hands and legs are protected by a sunscreen with a high SPF (around 40). Wear light colored T shirts and

pants while trekking. They absorb less of the heat. Jeans are not recommended trekking apparel.

Trekkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knee Repeated trauma to the knee cartilages can cause pain and swelling. You will be unable to bend your knee. I consider squatting at a Nepalese toilet as a good test for the knee. If you are able to do it properly without any problems your knees are OK! Use a stick/ski pole to absorb some of the shock while descending. Descend sideways if possible and absorb impacts on a bent knee. Take short breaks while descending. Rest, heat application, painkillers and local application of anti-inflammatory ointments are useful if the condition develops.

Stinging nettles Stinging nettles (sisnu) can be a problem along some trails. These plants sting when touched. Antihistamines and pain killers may be useful. Be careful if these plants are growing by the side of the trail and learn to identify them for your own safety.

Trekking at altitude Trekking at altitude brings its own set of problems. Acetazolamide if started two or three days before entering high altitude and continued throughout your period of stay aids acclimatization. Altitude symptoms are common above 3000 m though they can occur even above 2500 m. The most usual is a mild to moderate headache, nausea and even vomiting. Ascend no more than 300 m a day above an altitude of 3000 m. Plan rest days into your schedule. On these days walk higher and return to sleep at lower altitude. Drink plenty of water and keep yourself well hydrated. I find ORS (Oral Rehydration Salts)v a good fluid for maintaining water and salt balance. Your urine should be clear and light colored. Do not go higher if you are suffering alti-

tude symptoms. If your symptoms do not decrease then descend. Fluid in the lungs and in the brain are two life threatening emergencies which can occur. The symptoms are difficulty in breathing even at rest and coughing out pink frothy sputum for fluid in the lungs and confusion, clumsiness and difficulty in walking for fluid in the brain. Oxygen, rest, propped up position, acetazolamide and a blood vessel dilator (nifedipine) are useful in HAPE (fluid in lungs) while acetazolamide, oxygen and dexamethasone can be life saving in HACE (fluid in the brain). Patients can be put into a Gamow bag to buy time and should be carried down or evacuated by helicopter.

Falls Falls are a major risk. Be careful on uneven ground. Be doubly careful towards the end of the day when you are tired. Do not stop when crossing areas of landslides. Many falls occur while going to the toilet at night though it is decreasing with increasing number of indoor toilets. Be careful while ascending/descending stairs in lodges and always mind your head. If the toilet is outside then plan the route of your night excursion in advance.

Mosquitoes and bed bugs Mosquitoes may be a problem during lowland treks. Many lodges in these areas provide mosquito nets. A mosquito repellent may be useful. Bed bugs are a more common problem. Bringing your own sleeping bag can be a solution but these run the risk of getting infested.

Eye care The strong ultraviolet (UV) radiation can damage the eyes. Use a sun glass with UV protection. Do not use dark glasses which do not protect against UV rays. The pupil of the eye dilates behind these dark shades and more UV light enters the eye causing greater damage. If you are walking for long periods on snow, use glacier glasses with side blinders. Persons using contact lenses should be scrupulous about hygiene which may be difficult at higher altitudes.

Leeches Leeches could be a problem especially during the monsoon. Constantly trying to avoid leech bites can lead to falls and injuries. Locals use salt to protect themselves. Some also soak their socks and foot wear in kerosene. Be sure to remove all the leeches when you stop.

Foot care Use thick socks which will absorb moisture leaving the foot dry. Two layers of socks are helpful. Remove your shoes and socks during your lunch break and carefully inspect the skin for signs of blisters. Keep your feet dry.

Persons with medical problems or on medications Contact your doctor or a travel medicine clinic in Kathmandu who would be able to advise you. Generally medications for chronic diseases should be continued unless otherwise indicated. Trekkers from other countries should also ensure that their vaccinations against common diseases are up to date before they start on a trek. These precautions will increase the chances of your staying healthy and having a wonderful trekking holiday.

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Destinationspotlight

GOKYO LAKE Gokyo is a series of high altitude lakes at around 4800 m in the Sagarmatha National Park in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal. Gokyo Ri, a rocky ridge near Gokyo is a spectacular Himalayan view point.

Text and Photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar

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The Gokyo lakes Location of GokYo

The high altitude Gokyo lakes lie in the Sagarmatha National Park in the Solukhumbu district of Eastern Nepal. Founded in 1976, the park was designated as UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979. It encloses the upper drainage areas of the Dudh Koshi (milk river) and is surrounded by some of the highest mountains on earth. The first man to climb Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary had an important role in convincing the Nepalese government to establish the park and the New Zealand government to support the venture. The Gokyo valley lies to the west of the traditional trek to Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp (EBC). Gokyo lakes lie along the lateral moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier, Nepal’s longest. Most tourists reach the lakes trekking up from Lukla, during trekking season, the second busiest airport in Nepal.

Elevation 4,750 meters

There are a total of five lakes at a height of around 4800 m. The third lake is the largest and the collection of lodges called Gokyo is situated on its shores. The settlement is dwarfed by the huge lateral moraine scooped out by the glacier. Gokyo and associated lakes have a total area of 7700 hectares and were designated as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar convention in 2007. Nine wetland sites in Nepal have been included in the convention which aims to protect wetlands all over the world. The shores of the lakes are of fine sand reminding you of sea beaches. These may have formed part of the Tethys sea before the Indian plate rammed into the Eurasian uplifting the edges and forming the Himalayas. The alpine pastures and sloping mountains of the U-shaped Gokyo valley support a number of endangered species including the Kutki plant, the Himalayan Tahr, the Snow Leopard and the wood snipe. The wetlands are important for many species of birds which migrate over the Himalayas. Garbage and sewage of the visitors are possible threats to the lake.

Getting there from Lukla The initial trek is along the gorge carved by the Dudh Koshi. Namche Bazaar, the unofficial capital of the Sherpa region has plenty of lodges including up market ones. It is a stiff climb to Namche, so start early. Namche has many bakeries where you can satisfy your appetite for bakery items and pastries. The cyber cafes have a high speed connection through satellite but are expensive (10 Rs per minute the last time I was there). Spend a day acclimatizing. Visit the monastery at the top of the hill. I would recommend the day hike to the Syangboche airstrip at around 3900 m and the three stars Everest View Hotel. You can have tea with one of the finest mountain views on

earth. Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Tawachee, Lhotse and of course Everest are among the Himalayan giants towering over you. You can discern the village of Phortse and the monastery at Tengboche. About one and half hour after Namche the trail diverts from the main one to EBC and climbs to the village of Mong reputed to be the birthplace of the Saint Lama Sange Dorje who introduced Buddhism to the Khumbu. There is a steep descent after Mong to Phortse Thanga. This descent makes the trek risky from the point of view of altitude sickness as you have to ascend for over 500 m to finally get out of the valley if you fall ill. Be careful and stick to the recommended itinerary though it is easy to go too far too fast. Phortse, a spread out village with excellent lodges is a steep ascent from Phortse Thanga. The next day’s destination is Dole at 4200 m. The best lodge in the settlement is the Yeti Lodge and I still remember their apple custard with relish. Machermo at around 4400 m is your following day’s destination. The hike is short and you should be there by around eleven. The mountain scenery around Machermo is spectacular. Machermo is the site of one of the most credible yeti incident reported in the Khumbu where a yeti attacked a Sherpa woman and killed three yaks way back in 1974. The International Porter’s Progress (IPP) runs a trekkers’ aid post which treats both trekkers and locals. The doctors manning the post in season deliver a talk every afternoon on staying well at altitude. Attend this useful talk and contribute generously to this organization which has done much to improve the condition of porters in the Himalayas. Near Machermo you can see a porter shelter constructed by IPP. From Machermo the trail descends to the river before eventually climbing the

Location Sagarmatha National Park Best for Trekking March, April, May, Oct, Nov, Dec Transportation Car / Van / Plane Nearest Airport Lukla Trek Grade Moderate to Strenuous Trek Highlights Scenic mountain flight to Lukla; Sherpa home town; Gokyo Lakes; amazing view of Mt. Everest, Cho Oyu; Ngozumpa Glacier

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1. The houses and lodges of Namche Bazaar 2. The village of Phortse with Tawachee in the background 3. Sunrise on the Himals from Ghat 4. The trail through Na, Thare and Konar

terminal moraine of the glacier and soon reaches the first Gokyo lake. Spend some time here enjoying the wild surroundings or return after you are settled in at Gokyo. The trail eventually climbs to the third Gokyo lake with lodges by its shore.

of your heated dining room. On my visit there with a big group of students and faculty, we had stayed at a lodge bang on the shore. The lodges have indoor toilets and decent rooms. My advice to trekkers would be to arrive early and look around before

You can see the vast bulk of the Ngozumpa glacier and the Gokyo lakes with the settlement on the shores of the third one. Four of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ten eight thousand meter peaks, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Everest are seen. Finding accommodation is easier compared to the more crowded EBC trek. Gokyo is only about four hours from Machermo and most trekkers are in before midday. Big trekking groups often book a number of rooms making things difficult for individual trekkers. The Gokyo resort (a lodge) was built by the members of an Austrian ballooning expedition over Everest. There is a trading library at Gokyo. You can watch the play of light on the waters from the comfort 58 NOVEMBER 2009

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you make your final choice.

What you can do at Gokyo The two main options are to climb Gokyo Ri, a view point to the northwest or continue further up the Gokyo valley. Cho Oyu, an 8000 m peak towers to the north. I had a wonderful time watching sunset on this lovely mountain. Gokyo Ri (Ri means mountain in Tibetan) is a spectacular Himalayan view point. You can see the vast

bulk of the Ngozumpa glacier and the Gokyo lakes with the settlement on the shores of the third one. Four of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ten eight thousand meter peaks, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Everest are seen. Everest is seen at a greater distance compared to Kala Patthar on the EBC side but more of the massif itself is visible. I rank the view of Everest from Gokyo Ri as one of the finest views of the mountain from Nepal. The top is crisscrossed with prayer flags which flutter in the fierce wind. You can trek up to catch the sunrise from the viewpoint but the hike takes at least 3 hours putting you at risk of hypothermia in the pre dawn cold. Sunsets are more colorful and spectacular than sunrises when the mountains become golden, then orange and finally pink in the rays of the setting sun. The hike up the valley floor is strongly recommended by Hugh Swift, a famous trekker. He describes that during the hike along a barely discernable path, Mt. Everest can be seen from a unique perspective

Play of light on the Gokyo Lakes

LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GO Getting there A 15 to 18 day hike from Jiri. An eight to ten day hike from the airstrip at Lukla. You can combine this trek with the EBC one by crossing a high altitude pass, the Cho La. You can return in three days to Lukla. When to go? The best time is during the peak trekking season from October to early December or during March and April. Permission Trekking permits are no longer needed. Foreigners are advised to obtain a Trekking Registration Certificate. You are trekking in the Sagarmatha National Park and have to obtain a pass at Monjo, the park entrance. The cost is Rs. 100 for SAARC Nationals and Rs. 1000 for others. Entry is free for Nepalese. Organized tours or going alone? Both are possible. With lodge accommodation available and the trail being not very difficult, individual trekkers will not have problems. Health concerns The trek is at a high altitude so keep in mind the possibility of altitude sickness. Keep yourself hydrated and monitor your body. Attend the high altitude talk at Machermo if the doctors are giving one. The dry, cold air of the Khumbu can irritate and inflame your respiratory passages causing a running nose and dry cough. Steam inhalation and lozenges can be helpful.

making it look like a giant pup tent. You come across two more lakes. Take a guide and a packed lunch along as there is no habitation above Gokyo. You can vary the return trip by returning through the eastern side of the valley and the villages of Thare or Konar and Na and eventually reaching Phortse. These villages may not have lodges of the same quality as in other locations.

Specialties of the Gokyo trek Gokyo is a high altitude trek in the Everest region. The village of Phortse is famous for its Sherpa culture and hospitality. You can observe Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest glacier, the

Ngozumpa and a series of beautiful high altitude lakes. The mountain scenery is spectacular and Gokyo Ri is one of the finest view points. Rolling grass pastures and the flora and fauna make it a unique experience. Enjoy the spectacular beauty of this less frequented valley in the Khumbu. Have a wonderful time and trek safely. Also observe first hand the effects of global warming on the glaciers and the mountains. Preserving the wonderful Gokyo lakes and the Himalayas, the abode of snow is a matter of urgent priority. Action is needed right now for tomorrow may be too late!

Equipments Carry warm clothes and a down jacket as it can be very cold. A waterproof windcheater is useful. Good trekking boots with ankle support, a trekking hat and a close fitting cap. Good glacier glasses with side binders. Sunscreen with a good SPF. Crampons and other equipment are needed only if you plan to climb a peak. SUGGESTED TREK OPERATORS Explore Himalaya www.explorehimalaya.com Himalayan Glacier Trekking www.himalayanglacier.com Sacred Summits www.sacredsummits.com thamserku trekking www.thamserkutrekking.com yeti travels www.yetitravels.com

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TRAVELtIPS

Right Shoe Forward! During and after a great trek, most amateur trekkers complain of blisters, backaches and generally sore feet. Most newbie trekkers get all other gear right but think that any pair of good shoes will do. Wrong. Any pair will not do. Your feet are what get you up the hill and then down it too. Take extra care of them with these guidelines to choose the right shoe for specific kinds of treks. Traditional Leather Hiking Boots Traditional leather hiking boots have been around for years. Some hikers swear by them; others swear at them. They have quite a bit of pros and cons.

Lightweight Trekking Shoes Lightweight trekking shoes look and feel a lot like running shoes, but they are usually a better choice because they have stiffer soles with better traction for slippery trails.

Pro Traditional backpacking boots offer ankle support for rugged conditions, especially for hikers with weak ankles or poor balance and are a good choice for hikers with heavy packs. They are durable and can be re-soled and repaired so they last for years. Leather boots are waterproof, and come up high enough above the ankle to keep sand and mud out of the boot. Con Traditional boots are heavy - up to four pounds per pair - making hiking more tiring. They are also much more expensive. Stiff ones are more likely to cause blisters; they need to be broken in.

Pro Trekking shoes are lightweight, which means the hiker exerts less effort to lift them. They also pack more easily into luggage. They are less expensive and are a good choice for warm weather trekking. Con Because trekking shoes don’t cover the ankle, blister-causing dirt and sand can creep in.Trekking shoes don’t offer as much support, making them a poor choice for hikers with heavy packs. Hikers with balance issues or weak ankles might need the support of an above-the-ankle boot. They aren’t waterproof too, making them poor choices for wet or snowy conditions, especially if kicking steps into snow banks is necessary.Trekking shoes are not really known for durability.

Verdict: Not usually necessary, but a good choice for hikers with weak ankles, heavy loads, or those going into rough conditions where durability and support are important.

Verdict: Good choice for day hikers and longdistance backpackers with strong ankles who have managed to minimize the weight of their packs.

Leather-Fabric Hybrid Hiking Boots Leather-fabric boots combine the best of both worlds. They are the best choice for hikers who trek in a variety of conditions. Leather-fabric hybrids have leather for support and fabric (usually Cordura) for flexibility and breathability. Pro Hybrid outdoor boots need less breaking in than leather boots. (Note: they can cause blisters if not broken in at least a little). These boots come up over the ankle, keeping dirt out and offering ankle support sufficient for most hiking conditions. They also are rugged enough to handle uneven terrain, scree, and even kicking steps into snow. Con Hybrids are not waterproof, and can become heavy in wet conditions. They are heavier than trekking shoes, and might not be necessary for day hikers on easy terrain. Verdict: Good choice for most backpackers hiking in a variety of conditions.

As a rule, most backpackers today choose leather-fabric hybrid boots. Day-hikers lean towards trekking shoes, as do ultra-light backpackers who prioritize light weight over support or durability. And a few traditionalists stick to leather boots, valuing their stability and ruggedness. Make an informed choice. Happy Trekking!

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COMPANYPROFILE

Fishtail Air’s AS 350 B2 Chopper at Gorakh Shep, Everest region

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Heli-Trekking

with Fishtail Air

Nepal is famous the world over for its natural wonders - towering Himalayan peaks, verdant hills which shelters some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endangered flora and fauna, gushing rivers and serene mountain lakes, as well as world famous heritage sites. To take in all these splendors from aboard a helicopter is indeed a once in a lifetime experience. Text by Usha Rai Photo Courtesy Fishtail Air

Fishtail Air Pvt. Ltd., a private helicopter charter company with its base in Kathmandu, was established in the year 1997 under the Air Operators Certificate issued by the government of Nepal. Since its inception, the company has been actively involved in operation throughout Nepal with an occasional trans-border flight to Bhutan and India. With a fleet of four helicopters: AS 350 B, AS 350 B2 and the newly added AS 350B3

(all products of Eurocopter, France) and one Bell 206B III Jet Ranger (product of Bell Textron Helicopters, USA) , Fishtail Air operates flights for sightseeing, rescue, medical evacuation, corporate movement, project support, expedition works or any other purposes that need the services of a helicopter. The aircrafts used by Fishtail Air are regarded as one of the most versatile and safest helicopters, and are suitable for mountain flights and all types of helicopter missions. TIMES

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Snowy landscape with towering Himalayan peaks – Everest region

Langtang Heli- trekking- At Kyangjin

Heli - Trekking A new form of adventure that is becoming quite popular these days is the company’s Heli – Trekking programs. Heli-Trekking entails operating support flights for trekking. The Heli - Trekking programs are specially designed for those who can’t spare enough time to go trekking for days. It provides a welcome respite from the hustle bustle of the city, an ideal trekking adventure that one can undertake along with one’s family to the mountains without having to worry about physical strain and time constraints.

Fishtail Air’s Heli–Trekking Programs Fishtail Air’s Heli-Trekking company operates helitrekking in all the trekking regions in Nepal, but the most popular programs on demand are to the regions of Langtang and Annapurna Base Camp.

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High mountain adventure, aboard the comforts of a chopper

Langtang Heli-Trekking

Annapurna Base Camp Heli Trekking

From Tribhuvan International Airport, the helicopter flies to Ghora Tabela, a trekking point in the heart of Langtang Valley from where the Langtang Valley trek begins. As we are flown to our destination, mesmerizing sights of snow capped Ganesh Himal (7407m.), Langtang Lirung (7246 m.) and Dorje Lapka (6975m) open up. After flying for about an hour the chopper finally lands at Ghora Tabela, from where we trek towards Langtang village. On the second day, we continue trekking to Kyanjin, passing through yak pastures and picturesque traditional villages en route.

For the Annapurna Base Camp helitrekking, we board the helicopter from Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu and fly to Chomrong(2,100m), a trekking point approximately two days away from the Annapurna Base Camp(4130m). We trek through dense rhododendron forest with towering snowy peaks in the background. En route to Annapurna Base Camp, we pass the famous Annapurna Sanctuary. The sanctuary is a huge amphitheater enclosed by a solid wall of snow-capped peaks of Annapurna I, II, III and IV and the fish tail spire of Machhapuchhare. On the fourth day, our trekking adventure ends and we board the helicopter from Annapurna Base Camp and return to Kathmandu via Pokhara.

The Langtang Valley, inhabited mostly by Sherpas and Tamangs, lies in high alpine country. A place untouched by modernization, people over here still follow the ancient customs and traditions of their forefathers. We get the opportunity to visit small markets, a cheese factory and a monastery. On the third day, we board the helicopter from Kyangjin and fly back to Kathmandu. Duration: 2 Hours (Drop one hour and pick up one hour) Number of Passengers: 04/05

Duration: Trek- 5 hrs(drop 2hrs 30 mins / pick up 2hrs 30 mins). Number of Passengers: 04/05

1. At Gorakh Shep , EBC 2. Heli-Trekking in the Annapurna region 3. Panoramic view of Himalayan peaks seen while taking the ‘Discover Mt.Everest’ Tour 4. Aerial view of UNESCO World heritage site Swoymbhunath Temple, Kathmandu 5. Bird’s eye view of Bhaktapur Durbar Square 6. Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Other Tours – An Overview Fishtail Air also runs other aerial sightseeing tours and mountain flights. The company’s aerial sightseeing flights over the popular heritage and tourist spots within the Kathmandu Valley is quite popular among tourists. From the comfort of the helicopter you get to feast on the amazing aerial views of Kathmandu city. The company’s ‘Discover Mount Everest’ tour offers along with the view of awe-inspiring Mt. Everest, panoramic views of Himalayan peaks like Kwangde, Nuptse, Lhotse, Amadablam, Kangtega, and Thamserku.

The Pokhara and Annapurnas heli- tour,takes you over the magnificent Annapurna Sanctuary and Mt. Dhaulagiri. From the comfort of the helicopter, you enjoy the panoramic vista of Ganesh Himal, Manaslu, Lamjung Himal and the fast flowing Marshyangdi river. The Begnas, Rupa and Phewa lakes, look like jewels from up above. On taking the Chitwan Wildlife tour package, one is flown to the heart of ChitwanNational Park. After completing two fun-filled days in the park, spent on jungle safari, elephant rides, canoeing etc , on the third day you will be picked up for your return flight to Kathmandu. Fishtail Air’s helicopters have also proven quite popular among pilgrims visiting remote pilgrimage sites like Muktinath, Gosainkunda, Damodar Kund Mt. Kailash etc. Many pilgrims prefer to take the company’s charter services to transport them to the holy pilgrimage sites. For more information on heli – trekking and heli tours, www.fishtailair.com 4 5

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PEOPLE&CULTURE

The

Sherpa People of

A sizeable community of Sherpa people lives in Illam, Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tea district that borders on India. They are fine examples of how a community is defined as much by the conditions they live in as by time-tested traditions.

Text by Utsav Shakya

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ILLAM

A huge tree, unearthed, lay inclined in the middle of the road, a part of its roots still in the ridge that had followed us on our left. Our vehicle, an old Land Rover, slowed down and then stopped a few feet away from the tree. The tree was too heavy to be lifted and there were not enough people to even try such an option. It was decided that we would walk the rest of the way to Khopi. I had been trekking with a photographer friend on assignment in the scenic, mountain villages of Illam in Eastern Nepal and our travels so far had been problem free.

But soon, another, graver problem presented itself. The only space the Land Rover had to make an about turn and head back after leaving us was a little ahead of the fallen tree. On our right, a sheer drop of at least fifty feet into a small rocky river added to the tension. There was no way Raju, our driver, could back the huge four wheel drive to another space about a kilometer behind us. But inch by inch Raju turned the vehicle until it lay sideways; covering almost the entire width of the road and then all turned it all the way around. When we finally got to a misty, cold Khopi later that afternoon, a warm Sherpa family awaited us. We would spend our first night in the hills there. In fact, every day for the seven days that we trekked through the hills of Illam, we took refuge in the homes of local Sherpas. How did so many Sherpas, indigenous to Solukhumbu district end up here? What had brought so many of them here and for what purpose? When had they come here? Although my knowledge about Sherpas was not confined to just their fame as trustworthy porters and guides, rather shamefully, I did not know a lot about them either. My first guess that the Sherpas must have migrated internally from the Khumbu area looking for fertile land and work opportunities turned out to be only partially true. According to history, these Sherpas moved to Illam from Tibet in 640 AD and then 1496 AD again. In Illam, out of forty nine Village Development Committees, Sherpas occupy about nineteen with a total of approximately fifteen thousand Sherpas. A

majority of them are engaged in agriculture, with growing numbers also branching out towards business and administrative jobs and even into the army and the police forces. A lot of the Sherpa population here is also involved in dairy farming, tea plantation and cardamom production; a few of Illam’s specialities. In Falake, a half hour drive from the scenic Sandakphu hill top that borders India, new cheese factories have recently opened. Most Sherpas are financially quite secure and their literacy rates are higher than that of other ethnic groups that inhabit these hills with most children attending schools in Darjeeling. Another unique feature about the Sherpas here is that they have managed to build a monastery in each of their villages and almost all these villages have access to motorable roads. It is another thing that most of these roads have been constructed at impossible inclines and are not black topped, both of which makes for some harrowing rides in the area. Locals here do not complain. Any kind of road is better than no roads. Standing witness to the trend of Sherpas migrating to Illam is Lhakpa Nurbu Sherpa, head of the Sherpa family who sheltered us on our first night. Lhakpa dai is warm, always smiling, quick to comment on every topic and witty to no end. We followed his bright yellow rubber boots as they made crunching sounds on the gravel outside into his kitchen, which is separate from the main house, which is often the case in the area. Pasi didi, his daughter in law had already started a warm fire. The kitchen walls are lined with shelves full of

colorful cups, chillies dipped in oil, saucers and wooden containers to sip on Tongba, a traditional alcoholic drink. Her young son, Lhakpa dai’s adorable grandson Tenzing, is one and half years old and stumbles behind her, shy and awkward in the company of rare visitors. He does not speak any Nepali and understands only a few Sherpa words. This tongue, also known as Sharwa is a separate language, and not a dialect of the Tibetan language as it is believed to be. Sharwa is rarely written, the words are hard to pronounce but can be quite accurately spell using Devanagari or Roman characters. Unlike most Sherpas who moved here a long time ago, Lhakpa dai first tried his luck at finding work in the capital when he was a young boy. Unable to find work soon and disliking the city’s hustle and bustle, he traveled east and settled in Illam. Lhakpa dai is originally from Khotang -a district bordering on Solukhumbu-where he still has a brother and other relatives spread out in the area, whose names he is starting to forget. He also has family in Kathmandu but he does not want to move there. It was a tough decision because it meant a compromise against a better financial status as well as better health and educational facilities, but he does not regret it today. He does not remember the year when he got here nor does he remember his exact age; better still, he does not look like he really cares. It’s not an important number to him as opposed to the number of kilos of potatoes he was able to grow last year or the number of years his son has been in the Indian Army and has not been home.

Another unique feature about the Sherpas here is that they have managed to build a monastery in each of their villages and almost all these villages have access to motorable roads.

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“I have meat and Tongba every day. My family is with me. Every day is a festival here.”

As Lhakpa dai helps his daughter in law with the chores, the monotony of their lives is apparent in the way things get done easily with only a few words between them. He prepares all of us some Tongba and talks about how land is not fertile high up in the mountains where his house is. But the recent spurt in medicinal and aromatic herb plantations, encouraged and funded by The Mountain Institute, an American INGO, has caught on well and he is trying to look into it. It would make things easier for his wife, his daughter in law and his grandson. Lhakpa dai is also an example of how culture and traditions and hence a people are subject to changes owed to their environment and financial stability. Popular Sherpa festivals such as Dumje, Mani Rimdu, Lhosar and Dudhkunda festival are heard of but hardly celebrated. When asked about them though, Lhakpa dai describes the festivals in great detail. Dumje is an important festival celebrated by the Solu Sherpa community with tantric dances, initiations and Nen-Seg-Phang-sum i.e. trampling, burning and throwing as a way to dispel evil spirits being performed. Mani Rimdu is similar to Dumje in that it 70 NOVEMBER 2009

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also involves ritual activities and masked tantric dances. However, in Mani Rimdu, Chenrezig or Avalokiteswara, the Buddha of Compassion appears in neither a wrathful nor peaceful aspect and so the offering of sacramental cakes called torma is not required. The devotees recite the six syllable mantra of Chenrezig, Om Ma Ne Pad Me Hum for several days, placing mani pills in front of the shrine. The New Year, Lhosar also known as Dawa-thangbu in the Sherpa Language, is celebrated during February; it is the royal new year of the Gyalpo Losar. During the festival, the house is cleaned,

ritual foods are prepared, and debts are not collected mainly because it is believed to be a time when Guru Rimpoche comes to visit. Mired by financial and geographical difficulties the Sherpas here are unable to celebrate their traditions. Still, religion plays a huge role as they visit the local gompa, monastery regularly and pray there, listening often to the teachings of the Buddha as preached by the Guru. After a hearty meal of local chicken and rice washed down with some more Tongba, we settled down to sleep on the top floor of the main house, in a sizeable room with wood flooring and small beds by the windows. The only sound came from the small stream that ran by the side of the kitchen. It is a good place to be in the world I think to myself, as I drift off to sleep thinking about Lhakpa dai’s answer to my question of whether he celebrates Dashain. “I have meat and Tongba every day. My family is with me. Every day is a festival here.” In the eastern hills of Illam, in a village that goes by Khopi, in a house that lies in the lap of a great hill, lives a Sherpa man who has figured out the meaning of happiness and joy. And he knows it.

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hotels&casinos

Gokarna Forest Resort Every once in a while we need to get away from it all; the hustle and bustle of city life, the long work hours, the heavy workload, the harasses of daily life. Men might dream of a quiet game of golf and maybe an evening at the bar and women might want to relax in a spa and enjoy some pampering in a Jacuzzi, or I might have just committed the crime of stereotyping gender. Whatever the case, the Gokarna Forest and Golf Course Resort is the perfect getaway for everybody. Text by Yesha Malla

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Situated within the city limits of Kathmandu, you reach the resort after a long and winding road. Gokarna Forest Resort certainly makes up for any discomfort from the dusty, bumpy roads. This beautiful oasis is located inside the serene temperate 740 acre Gokarna forest. Gokarna forest was a former royal private hunting ground. Fascinated by the parks he had seen in England, Rana era Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana had the area fenced off and made into a park as soon as he returned, hence preserving the forest. The Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge, a century old, recently renovated part of the resort, served as a place for rest before engaging in teeing off again. The forest, and subsequently the resort, takes its name from the Gokarneshwar Mahadev shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, one amongst the triumvirate of the Gods of Gods â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver and Shiva the Destroyer. According to legend, Lord Shiva whimsically decided to hide himself from the other gods and mankind in the Pashupatinath forest. While he frolicked among the wild animals and trees in tranquility, the world suffered. Vishnu, Brahma, and Indra -

the king of gods, searched and finally found him disguised as a one-horned golden deer. They caught him by the horn which promptly broke into fragments revealing Shiva in full glory. He then gave the fragments to the three Gods: Vishnu took his portion to his celestial abode, Indra to his realm in heaven, and Brahma enshrined it at Gokarneshwor, where the temple was consequently built. The Gokarna Forest Resort and Golf Course, which celebrates its 1st Anniversary this year and which recently hosted the Jazzmandu festival, first opened solely as a golf course. Ever since golf was first introduced in Nepal by the then Rana Prime Minister who returned from Scotland with a few golf clubs in 1917, golf has been played avidly and enthusiastically by people here. Nepal only had nine hole golf courses, until 1999 when Gokarna Forest Golf Resort (GFGR) opened up with Nepalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first international standard 18 hole golf course. The resort was later established to provide golfers with a place to relax and stay over. The resort was formerly known as Le Meridien Kathmandu, Gokarna Forest Golf Resort & Spa. From November of 2008, the resort

has been self managed and is now known as the Gokarna Forest Resort.

producing too much smoke. With more of such projects on the pipeline, Gokarna Resort is all set to become a truly green hotel.

Besides having the nation’s only 18 hole golf course, the Gokarna Forest Resort also boasts of being the only ‘Eco Hotel’ of Nepal. Certified as one of the Eco Hotels of the world since October 2008, the resort has joined the eco-friendly bandwagon. Quite admirably, the resort believes in proper utilization of resources and sustainability. Like all eco-hotels it is environmentally-responsible, follows the practices of free living, and has made many important environment friendly changed in its infrastructure in order to minimize its impact on the environment. Gokarna Resort is currently concentrating on making the resort more eco-friendly. It has already taken some measures such as using CFL lights in the entire resort to save electricity, as well as installing solar cells to generate electricity. The plan is to rid the resort entirely of its dependence on external electrical power. Biogas produced from kitchen waste is used to power some of the areas such as the kitchen and the generator exhaust is used to heat up the water. Rain water is harvested for use in the golf course as well as in the restrooms. Underground water is used in the entire resort with eco-friendly soaps and detergents, which is then treated and reused for plants or to water the golf course. No pesticides or other chemicals are used. It also has a naturalist on board and FATE - Foundation of Advancement of Tourism Ethics - where guests are taught about responsible tourism. As if this were not enough, the resort sets aside a percentage of its revenues to provide education for the poor and for environmental protection. Plans are also being made to establish waste management plants. As part of a new project, the resort plans to use local plants such as titepani to make bio briquettes that burn efficiently for a long time without

“Our mission is to meet the discerning expectations of our guests, giving them a ‘Naturally Nepal’ experience, while preserving our environment, being ecologically responsible, and incorporating models of ethical tourism.”

Having already established Gokarna Resort and Golf Course as an institution dedicated to environmental sustainability and as a hotel full of history, a virtual tour of the resort and its grounds seemed to be in order. Step through the traditional wooden Nepali styled entrance into the spacious lobby with gleaming marble floors and sepia toned warm ambience, where the receptionists are helpful and polite, making you feel instantly at ease. The place is huge and roomy with huge windows and corridors opening into courtyards, giving a fresh airy feel, and letting lots of sunshine into the building. In fact, big floor-length windows seem prominent, making maximum use of the beauty of the surroundings to enhance the resort. The corridors lead into the courtyard, where you might enjoy a sunny afternoon sipping cold coffee and listening to charming forest sounds; the rustling of the leaves, crickets chirping or even the chattering of monkeys. The Coffee Room and the Durbar Restaurant and Bar are always open for delectable snacks and tea, a few drinks, or dinner, in a long dining hall with traditional Nepali furnishings, jute tapestries and ornamental masks hanging on the wall. The rooms are decorated in similar taste. Each of the 65 deluxe rooms and suites display subtly majestic Malla or Rana period architecture and décor. The rooms, both in the cottages dotting the resort grounds or in the Hunter Lounge, are spacious and flooded with light, and are kept immaculately clean. The rooms, bright and with soft muted colors, have huge windows opening to the forest or the golf course grounds. Each room has been lovingly prepared for optimum comfort: a television, mini snack bar, fresh flowers, a lapTIMES

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top with wireless facilities, and even books for your enjoyment. Of course, there is always room service if you need anything at all with the resort’s friendly, efficient staff always on call. Moving on to the Harmony Spa, - one of the highlights of the resort. The Harmony Spa combines therapeutic care with a natural environment impossible to recreate elsewhere. You may want to indulge yourself in the sauna, the steam room or the Jacuzzi. Take a dip in the temperature regulated indoor swimming pool. Get a massage in the Adam & Eve or Serenity massage parlors. Get Ayurvedic treatments in Ayura Ayurvedic Center for complete relaxation and rejuvenation. Primp up in Apsara, the beauty treatment center. Work up a sweat in the well-equipped gym. The possibilities are endless. Or if you want more natural and diverse

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Nepal is famous for its culture and architecture, its hospitality, its natural beauty, its cornucopia of flora and fauna and multiethnic people; Gokarna Resort displays every one of these aspects. ways to while your time away pleasantly, the 70 acre Gokarna forest provides limitless opportunities for bird watching, forest walks and secluded picnics within the forest. You can also take tours of nearby shrines such as Shirdi Sai Baba temple next to the Hunter’s Lodge, Bandevi Temple deep within the forest and the famed Gokarneshwor Mahadev temple. The main attraction, of course, is the sprawling 18 hole golf course. Lauded as South Asia’s finest, and one of the world’s best Golf Courses, it is set within 470 acres of the Gokarna Forest Reserve. It was designed by

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David Kidd of Gleneagles Golf Developments and is spread over 140 acres at 4,550 ft. above sea level; the 6,755 yard par 72 course boasts the only bent grass greens on an 18 hole course in South and S.E. Asia. Soft cushions of local Bermuda fairways, lush unyielding forests, winding streams, undulating hills and valleys opening into a holy river’s plains make it the perfect place for harmonizing with nature while concentrating on a proper game of golf. Even monkeys from the huge forest flank the course, playing around in the grounds unperturbed by the game. During the afternoons, timid deer venture out of the

woods to sun themselves, fleeting away shyly as golf carts amble by. The Clubhouse restaurant nearby serves delicious food for the golfers and guest alike, and the Practice Range was recently opened for novice golfers to learn the exalted sport and for veterans to hone their skills. The Gokarna Golf Course also holds professional tournaments and matches often. Nepal is famous for its culture and architecture, its hospitality, its natural beauty, its cornucopia of flora and fauna and multiethnic people; Gokarna Resort displays every one of these aspects. Guests leave the resort relaxed and satisfied, with beautiful pictures and good times set in their memories, and perhaps a little wistful of leaving this heavenly surreal sanctuary for the mundane of their every day.

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Recommended restaurants&Bars 365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 2110800 Speciality: Arabian

Cafereena Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4231313 Speciality: Thai, Multi

Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Indian

Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Nepali, Continental

Baryo Fiesta Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4414395 Speciality: Tandoori, Taas

Café de Patan Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 Speciality: Newari Foods

Factory Thamel Tel:4701185 Speciality: Multi

Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Thamel Tel:4422519 Speciality: Multi

Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Dillibazar Tel:4411603 Speciality: Nepali

Cherry Lounge & Bar Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Mob: 9741 115143 Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks

Fire And Ice Thamel Tel:4250210 Speciality: Italian

Hot Breads New Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Confectionery

Bhumi The Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4412193 Speciality: Newari

Chopstick Restaurant & Bar Buddhabari, Teku, Kathmandu Tel: 4104503 Speciality: Chinese Cuisine

Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Bouddha, Kathmandu Tel: 2140277 Speciality: Chinese

Holiday Karaoke Restaurant & Bar Pani Pokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4445731 Speciality: South, East, Asian

Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Restaurant Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4721939 Speciality: Various Veg Tastes

Chez Caroline Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070 Speciality: French

Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Teku Tel:4260630 Speciality: Multi

Kausi Kitchen Restaurant and Bar Woodland Complex Tel:4227288 Speciality: Multi

Delicatessen Center & Cafe Durbar marg Tel:4221331 Speciality: Multi

Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Bar Chhetrapati Tel:4212730 Speciality: Italian/Indian

Khing Thai Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel:4244378 Speciality: Thai

Bourbon Room Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental

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Koto Restaurant Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine K-Too Bear & Steak House Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Thai La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel:4700612 Speciality: Italian Lakhe Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4256606 Speciality: Lebanese, French, Italian Layaku Restaurant Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Multi Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Thamel Tel:2191729 Speciality: Italian Matsuri Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu

Tel: 4229032 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese Mikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Breakfast Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Moods Studio Lounge Blue Bird Mall Tel:4215740 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Nepali Chulo Restaurant Durbar Marg Tel:4220475 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Nhuchheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Organic Bistro Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tel: 4414383 Speciality: Organic Foods OR2K Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4422097 Speciality: Israeli, Arabian Pizza Express Lazimpat Tel:2161212 Speciality: Pizza

Rice & Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel:4260677 Speciality: Chinese Road House Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5520524 Speciality: Italian Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 01-6914930 Speciality: Australian Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-230890 Speciality: Indian, Continental Royal Thai Restaurant New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai Rum Doodle Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4701107 Speciality: Steak & Pizza Seoul Arirang Korean Restaurant Nagpokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4429052 Speciality: Korean

The Ambiance Restaurant & Bar

Mangal Bazar, Lalitpur Tel: 5538980 Speciality: Multi La Rotisserie Grilled Chicken & Sandwich & Ice Cream Parlor Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 5530823

It is an European style of cooking system, which stops the spit for a period of 20 seconds in front of heating element every 180 degrees. It allows meat to constantly baste itself, sealing in natural juices while letting fat drip off. The Rotisserie offer delicious, low-cholesterol, healthy grilled chicken and many more to all of valued customers...

Walter Restaurant & Bar Please Contact for Latest Mouth Watering Selection...

Baber Mahal Revisited, Kathmandu, Phone: + 977 (1) 425 3337 walters.restaurant.nepal@gmail.com

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FOOdRINK

thakali thali Arguably the most popular Nepali cuisine of the hills, the Thakali Thali like any other great recipe, also has a bit of history attached to it. Text by Yesha Malla

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The delectable combination of dal, bhat and tarkari is common in every culture in Nepal but most will agree that nobody does it better than the Thakalis of lower Mustang. They’ll greet you warmly, treat you with the utmost hospitality and welcome you to their abode with a hot cup of tea and one of the most delicious cuisines in all of Nepal. The Thakalis of Nepal are famed for their warmth and most renowned for their food. So it is no surprise that the small ethnic group that originated from the steep Kali Gandaki (Thak Khola) region prides in delicious, traditional food that has people licking their fingers. The delectable combination of dal, bhat and tarkari is common in every culture in Nepal but most will agree that nobody does it better that the Thakalis of lower Mustang. As traders between India and Tibet, the Thakalis adapted dishes and together with local favorites, created a culinary tradition of their own. Today the cuisine’s vegetarian-heavy mix incorporates Tibetan, Indian, Bangladeshi, and Chinese influences. Though originally from Mustang, the

Thakali cuisine consists of a simple fare of rice with lots of side dishes; quite similar to any other cuisine in Nepal. What makes it special is the variety, the visual appeal of the dishes, the small quirks and special techniques that makes the tastes so different. Thakali food specializes in being less spicy than its counterparts, and uses mellow spices such as timur. It introduces exotic items to the menu, may it be ‘dhedo’, a dish made of buckwheat (‘phaper’) flour, or chyangra sukuti, which is dried meat of the Himalayan sheep. It delights people with the unusual green color of its black lentil dal. For those who are curious about this phenomenon, the green color - as the proprietor of Mustang Thakali Chulo confided - is made by a special procedure of slow, rigorous boiling of lentils in an iron pot with turmeric, ginger and chili. The food is tastefully arranged in the ‘thali’ (plate), with rice or dhedo in the center surrounded by vegetables and pickles with as much attention to color as to the taste. Bowls are arranged to the right of the plate with the dal closest, followed by soup and an array of meat and vegetable dishes, appealing to

Thakalis have resettled in Kathmandu and in southern Nepal. Thakalis outside their homeland follow a syncretic form of Tibetan Buddhism heavily influenced by Hinduism, while those in Mustang remain much more traditionally Buddhist. The word Thakali comes from the Tibetan “Thak” which means ‘distant country’. Historically the Thakali region was the most remote region under Tibetan influence. The Thakalis are divided into four clans, and each clan has a distinct clan deity. Folklore maintains that the ancestor of the Gauchan clan, Ani Airam, went on a journey from his home in Western Tibet to Sinja in Jumla, and met Samledhen Samlecyang, the founder of the Tulachan clan, Dhakpa Ghyalsang, the patriarch of the Sherchan clan and Paw Kuti, the ancestor of the Bhattachan clan along the way. The travelers then settled in the area now known as Thak Khola and the Thakalis with their four distinct clans came into existence; with their own customs and traditions, living in the arid slopes of the Himalayas in the Mustang.

Typical Thakali Dhedo Set

both the aesthetic and the utilitarian senses at the same time. Thakali food is also popular for its versatility and usefulness. Since it is adapted for life in Mustang and uses ingredients that are more easily accessible in steep and frigid mountain slopes, Thakali food is preferred during long treks. Thakali food starts off simple. The ubiquitous piping hot Thakali tea or local apple brandy on the side, snacks such as ‘Kanchembo’, phaper French fries and ‘Khoken’, phaper rotis, are served first with spicy sauces. Besides the completely bonafide and original Thakali dishes, there are also familiar and generally Nepali foods enjoyed as snacks and part of the Thakali experience. The saladlike bhatmas chiura is a bright, flavored appetizer of marinated

soybeans with ginger, garlic, chiles, cilantro, and a bracing shot of mustard oil; mix it with the crunchy, neutral-flavored dried rice flakes served on the side. Sel roti, a savory/sweet fried doughnut of rice flour and banana, and momos, steamed dumplings are also favorites. A creamy, white bean soup may be served next, or perhaps a green palak (spinach) soup. The main course would be the aforementioned thali of delicious proportions; steamed rice or a glistening mound of dhedo topped with ghiu – clarified butter – surrounded by vegetables such as spinach or mustard leaves, piquant tomato and radish and chili pickles, and chutney with a touch of timur. The basically flavorless rice or dhedo is also well complemented with chicken or mutton curry and fried potatoes. ‘Gundruk’ is a singular tangy side dish unique to Nepal which is made of fermented vegetables and served as soup. Another fermented dish unique to the Thakali cuisine is the ‘kinema’ made of soyabeans. Lyetpo khu is another exotic dish made with the head of a goat - all organs included TIMES

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Thakali food singlehandedly represents the very essence of the indigenous Thakali people; their hospitality and their identity as well as the unique cuisines of Nepal as a whole.

With such varied delightful treats on offer, and the company of the charming Thakali people, it is no wonder people get

1. 2. 3. 4.

excited and maybe even salivate at the very mention of Thakali food. Thakali food singlehandedly represents the very essence of the indigenous Thakali people, their hospitality and their identity as well as the unique cuisines of Nepal as a whole. Enjoy Thakali cuisine on your trekking trips in Nepal, or in any one of the many popular Thakali restaurants in Kathmandu for an authentic gastronomical experience. Special thanks to Tukuche Thakali Restaurant and Mustang Thakali Chulo.

authentic flavour from china

Tian Rui Chinese Restaurant & Bar Pvt. Ltd. Thapathali, Kathmandu, Phone: 4243078, Fax: 4249162 Email - tianruiktm@yahoo.com

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Tukuche Thakali Kitchen Durbarmarg, Kathmandu Mustang Thakali Chulo Thamel, Kathmandu Spicy Affair Jyatha, Kathmandu Marpha Thakali Restaurant Teku, Kathmandu

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- diced into small pieces and cooked with timur, salt, garlic and chili powder. Another variation is the gidifal, made of the brains (‘gidi’) of a goat. You can wash down the dishes with alcohol - apple/apricot brandy, uwa (a kind of crop similar to wheat) ko raksi or jhwaikatte - or salty tea, a specialty of the Thakalis made of special tea leaves saturated in milk, ghiu, and salt. Rice puddings are often eaten as dessert. Phopkee is a delicious dessert made of fermented rice which is usually served warm.

Where to eat

10% discount for clients of Himalayan Bank Ltd. card holders and ACE Development Bank Ltd. ‘Ace Nari Bachatt’ card holders

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NATURE&WILDLIFE

Himalayan Flora & Fauna Trekking in Nepal is more than just for the adrenaline rush and the great views. The mountains are a treasure trove for an amazing array of flora and fauna.

An example of the biodiversity implied here is the tree population spread throughout the Himalayas. The western part of the Himalayas has forests of blue pine, spruce, silver fir, junipers, conifers deodar and chir pine while the eastern Himalayan region is covered with maple, rhododendrons, alder, birch, oak, laurel and dwarf willows. The biodiversity of the Himalayas synched with its geographical features is truly an impressive biological feat. The best way to capture the true essence of the Himalayas with its exotic flora and fauna is to experience it yourself. And what better way to do this but to trek through amazing trails in the mountains!

Text by Prita Malla Photo Courtesy: WWF

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Life can be quite tenacious. Living proof would be the ability of living things to adapt almost everywhere - from the molten depths of the earth to the dry expanse of the deserts, and even more incredibly, in the coldest reaches of the Himalayas. The frigid climates and steep landscapes of the Himalayas have an astonishing multitude of flora and fauna which lure people with their sheer versatility and enhance the ethereal beauty of the mountainous region. The Himalayas have been successful in pulling in travelers and tourists from all around the world with this exotic wildlife and natural exquisiteness.

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The Himalayas have a number of popular trails to offer. If you are looking to combine sightseeings of flora and fauna with some serious hiking, the Makalu Barun region trek is for you. High in the heart of the eastern Himalayan, seven valleys radiate from Mt. Makalu; these valleys, particularly the Barun valley, have some of the most pristine forests and alpine meadows in the country. The area has some of the richest and most diverse pockets of plants and animals in Nepal, lost elsewhere to spreading human habitation. The unique landscape shelters some amazing but slowly disappearing pristine mountain ecosystems. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in these diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by mankind. Over 3000 different species of flowering plants, 440 species of birds, and 75 species of mammals, including the endangered clouded leopard, red panda and musk deer, have been sighted here. The incredibly steep topography and abundant monsoon rains of the eastern Himalayas support unusually diverse bioclimatic zones. Alpine pastures above 4000 meters contain dwarf rhododendron, juniper, aromatic herbs and delicate wildflowers including 47 different varieties of orchids. These colorfully varied flowers are visited by an equally chromatic and diverse variety of butterflies. Sub-alpine forests of fir, birch and rhododendron, and temperate stands of oak, maple and magnolia thrive in this area. Luxuriant orchids drape the chestnut and pine forests of the subtropical zone and

sal forests reach their northern-most limit within Nepal along the banks of the Arun River. The park has about 400 species of birds, including some rare species like the spotted wren babbler and the olive ground warbler; rarely seen elsewhere in Nepal. There are many wild animals including the endangered red panda, Himalayan black bear and the clouded leopard. Other wildlife found in the park are the ghoral, tahr, wild boar, barking deer, Himalayan marmot and weasel, common langur monkey and the serow. At a higher altitude, the Everest Base Camp trek also offers diverse flora and fauna besides the views, quite literally, from the top of the world. Although a moderately difficult trek, novice and seasoned trekkers alike fill up the trails during the pre-winter trekking months of October and November. One of the major attractions of the Everest Base Camp area is the famed Sagarmatha National Park. It is surely one of the most beautiful places on earth, even more so in the summer months of July and August. After the first monsoon rains in June, different kinds of plants grow rapidly. The hillsides turn a lush green and a variety of flowers start blooming. Butterflies of myriad species appear in iridescent colors. The park is home to 118 species of birds and 26 species of butterflies along with many flora and fauna. Vegetation in the park varies from pine and hemlock forests at lower altitudes to fir, juniper, birch and rhododendron woods at mid-elevations. The

Over 3000 different species of flowering plants, 440 species of birds, and 75 species of mammals, including the endangered clouded leopard, red panda and musk deer, have been sighted here.

Snow LEopard

Alpine Accentor

Tibetan Snowcock

Red Panda

Uncia uncia, is smaller than the other big cats with long thick fur with whitish undersides. They have dark grey to black open rosettes on their body with spots of the same color on their heads, legs and tail

Prunella collaris, is a small passerine bird found at heights above 2000m. It has a streaked brown back but adults have a grey head and red-brown spotting on the undersides. It has an insectivoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine pointed bill.

Tetraogallus tibetanus, is found in 5,000â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6,000 m in the Western Himalayas. Its height can range in between 50â&#x20AC;&#x201C;56 cm and is easily distinguished from other snowcocks by its white undersides with heavy blackish streaks on flanks.

Ailurus fulgens, also called the Firefox or Lesser Panda is a small arboreal mammal. Slightly larger than a domestic cat, it has reddish-brown fur, a long, shaggy tail, and a waddling gait due to its shorter front legs.

Photo by: Martin Harvey/ WWF-Canon

Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch

Photo by: Haris Rai/ WWF Nepal

Photo by: Peter Prokosch

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Noble Rhubarb

Rhododendron

Cypress Vine

Marigold

Rheum nobile, is a giant herbaceous plant native to the Himalaya found in alpine zones at 4000-4800 meters. At 1-2 meters, it is a conical tower of delicate, straw-colored, shining, translucent, regularly overlapping bracts.

Rhododendron spp. is a genus characterized by shrubs and small to (rarely) large trees, the smallest species growing to 10-100 cm tall, and the largest, R. giganteum, reported to over 30 m tall.

Ipomoea quamoclit, with its tiny slender-tubed starry flowers and gossamer foliage, is the member of the morning glory family. An annual twining climber with deeply cut, feather-fine leaves, it blooms from early summer until early fall.

Tagetes spp is an annual and perennial herbaceous plant in the daisy family. The different species have pinnate green leaves and white, golden, orange, yellow to almost red floral heads generally with both ray florets and disc florets.

Photo by: Bhesh R. Oli/ WWF Nepal

Photo by: Wenzel Prokosch

The treks may be long and strenuous with a harsh climate to boot, but with the bounty of nature youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll enjoy, the back aches and the sore knees are quite worth it. famed bloom of rhododendrons which renders entire hills to change color occurs during the spring although much of the flora is most colorful during the monsoon season. The park is the prime habitat for Himalayan tahrs, deer, langur, hares, mountain foxes, martens, and Himalayan wolves. Some of the endangered animals that are found in this park are wild yak, musk deer, red panda, snow leopard and the Himalayan black bear. The most common birds seen are the Impeyen pheasant, blood pheasant, cheer pheasant, jungle crow, red billed and yellow billed coughs and snow pigeon. The Langtang trek is another treat for nature enthusiasts. Because this trail ascends gradually along a river valley, it is not considered strenuous (even this scribe has been to Kyangjin and back). So if you are like me â&#x20AC;&#x201C; someone who loves nature but tires easy - then this trek is definitely for you! It offers an excellent opportunity to explore biodiversity as well as great views of glaciers and the mountains. The Langtang trek starts from Syabru Besi following a trail up the Bhote Kosi River to the wide spread lush greens of the Kyangin valley surrounded by snowy peaks from all sides. It offers some of the best examples of 84 NOVEMBER 2009

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graded climatic conditions in the central Himalayas. The complex topography and geology together with the varied climatic patterns have enabled a wide spectrum of vegetation which includes small areas with subtropical forests. Oaks, chir pine, maple, fir, blue pine, hemlock spruce and various species of rhododendron make up the main forest species. The variation in altitude and topography along with the existing forest cover provide habitat for a wide range of animals such as wild dog, red panda, pika, muntjac, musk deer, Himalayan black bear, Himalayan tahr, ghoral, serow, rhesus monkey and common langur. With so many choices for trekking, one can easily explore the glory of the Himalayas. The treks may be long and strenuous with a harsh climate to boot, but with the bounty of nature youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll enjoy, the back aches and the sore knees are quite worth it. So pack your backpacks and get ready for the heady magic of the Himalayas!

Kathmandu

FIRST REVOLVING Ratna Plaza, Newroad, Kathmandu Contact: 4241712 For Reservation : 9851091404 / 9851091629 (Bishal) Website: www.revolving.com.np

RESTAURANT OF NEPAL

Step in for some delicious :

Indian Cuisine Chinese Cuisine Nepali Cuisine Continental Cuisine

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ataleofvagabond

The Travelling Twosome Valeriy Garkaln & Nadia Neupokoeva

Valeriy and Nadia give pointers on how to make the most of your travels and list some of their most memorable travels. To know more about them and their delightful travels, Travel Times caught up with them. Here are some brief excerpts from the conversation.

Travelling can be both incredibly enriching and exhausting. What made you so enthusiastic about travelling? During the last few years travelling has been taking a lot of time and space in our lives. We are a travelling couple and different things motivate us to travel such as our interest in people, their culture and more importantly the abundance of natural beauties all around the world. We think we have given our due to the big cities so we are now trying to travel outside of such areas. Travelling can exhaust you if you are worried about something. If you have peace in your soul and trust people, then you can travel without anxiety, which allows the best travelling experience. From the professional point of view we aren’t ‘travel photographers’. Our pictures are intended for decoration purposes and for books and websites. We get new ideas and concepts from the places we visit for photo-reports and art-exhibitions. Each element – earth, water, air, fire and space – represents the universe in many aspects. We try to find the sources of this beauty in any existing thing

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We took the small trial, the right bank of Kali Gandaki River, this place famous for the strong everyday wind. and then we share our findings with the rest of the world with great pleasure. This is our main reason to travel.

6. If you are not travelling alone – try to “breathe together” with your companion.

How do you plan your trips? Do you have rules that you abide by while travelling?

Name one place where could you go back to over and over again.

As a freelance art-photographer and researcher we don’t have a set of rules for travelling. Usually when we start, we don’t even know when we will be back. We mostly take one way tickets. This kind of travelling changes our notion of ‘home’. Home for us is any place where we stay together which can include all the territory of our travel. So, when we start, even if we have a fixed time, we prepare ourselves for a long journey and try to organize a homely environment with each other in any place. We often change our minds and stay longer than planned in some places if we feel like it. A new idea, a partner’s invitation or new project can have us packing. We are ready to start all over again! But we do have some general travelling rules: 1. Travelling together is always better than travelling alone. 2. We tend to travel during the off-season. We try to go around the “mainstream”. It is not a good idea to stay on the line to Everest! 3. We try to have an “open roadmap” and an open mind. Who knows what you see or who you meet at the next corner? 4. Every time we start travelling, we also try to incorporate our inner travel as well. This is very important for us to have multi-faceted travelling. We need to find a balance between external physical movement and internal condition. 5. Create breaks in between travels. A good break will aid in choosing the next move.

7. Move slowly.

For us that place is definitely Upper Tsum Valley in the Trans Himalyan region of Nepal. The people are very hospitable; they made us feel like we were one of their own. We would to love to visit Tsum Valley again. It is located 3000 m above sea level and is perfect with bright sun light, fresh air and crystal clear water – what more could one ask for? We dream of visiting Tsum in spring, summer and winter time as well.

Is there anywhere you haven’t been that you’d like to go? We both long to visit one area in Far East Russian–Kamchatka Peninsula. It is quite far away from St. Petersburg. Hopefully, we will get there one day.

What have been your greatest challenges and rewards as avid travellers? All kinds of difficulties can be overcome with a real friend, be it hot or cold weather, strong winds, high altitude or even monsoon rainfall. We have an interesting anecdote, from once when we were trekking from Jomsom to Kagbeni in the Annapurna area. We took the small trail through the right bank of Kali Gandaki River, which is famous for strong winds. We reached the small village Phalyak (higher than the main trail) during the sunset. There wasn’t a single guest house or lodge in sight. As it became darker, the winds became colder and stronger. But from this place we were able to observe an absolutely fascinating view – the valley was flooded with evening light and above the clouds, three golden snow

Interests Traveling, photography, psychology, interior design, collaborations with people in different projects in social area Education Valeriy: Russian State University for the Humanities, Historical department (Moscow), Moscow State University, Journalist Department, Member of the Union of Russian Journalists and International Federation of Journalists Nadia: State Pedagogical University, Historical department (St.Petersburg), East-Europe Institute of Psychoanalysis, PhD, Member of the St. Petersburg Union of Scientists Occupation Valeriy: Photographer, fine-art designer, photo-journalist Nadia: researcher, psycho-therapist, project coordinator Philosophy We draw our life using the wind palette and water streams Countries visited India (long time living), Russia (many places), Europe – many countries, Tibet, Thailand, Sri Lanka, United Kingdom, United States and Nepal Types of People We enjoy We enjoy open and creative people from any place as well as active people who are not afraid of starting something new. At the same time we try to support people devoted to what we think are good traditions because both of them – creators and keepers - save our human world. Teach, Learn, Share, Stop twitch, breathe deep, Open your eyes, and believe in yourself Current location St.Petersburg, Russia Few words to the readers and Travel Times We believe that people can manage together with any challenge

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peaks stood like three brothers in infinite quietness. The view made us forget about the cold wind. The evening later turned into a warm and friendly one at a local family’s house. The local “tentup” soup was so tasty and the hostess’ smile was so lovely. The trip was quite rewarding.

What are your personal natural or manmade seven wonders? Our seven wonders : 1. Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu – the most impressive place that we’ve ever been to. 2. Patan, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal – Arts and beauty were born here. If you can spend time here, you can almost feel the breath of centuries. 3. Baikal Lake, East Siberia, Russia – The huge blue eye of our planet. 4. Shanti Stupa in Leh, Ladakh – You can spend so much time here in absolute Shanti 5. Swoyambhu Nath, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal – Self-created wonder. 6. Gomukh Glacier, Gangotri, Uttaranchal Pradesh, India – The origin of the Ganga and the glacial area which can be observed from the Tapoban. 7. Kanyakumari, South India.

What does travel teach you? What have you learned about yourself through your travels? When we travel there are possibilities of meeting interesting people, finding knowledge, improving our professional skills, being inspired, finding new and more interesting routes and being productive. As we have been traveling for a while now, we have come to understand that there are no borders or boundaries in reality, the borders are figments of imagination inside one’s mind.

You’ve been to Nepal several times now. What do you think sets 88 NOVEMBER 2009

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Nepal apart from other travel destinations? We know the most common answer for this question would be the Himalayas. But we feel that there is something else that makes Nepal different - its people. Another outstanding thing would be the diversity and richness of people and culture in such a small area. For Russian people this is quite remarkable – after our huge territory with long distances. Travelling in Nepal, you have the possibility to start from a tropical jungle to rich snowy mountains within a very short time. Russian travellers are used to moving for long durations. Nepal helped us change our mind and to start travelling in a more of a three-dimensional space.

Nepal is popular for its many trekking trails. How have your trekking experiences been in Nepal? Speaking about trekking, except for highaltitude mountaineering, we have been through most trekking routes in Nepal. On each classical trek, one can find something interesting. Everybody needs to try trekking once. We have made one general observation: usually people look happier when they have enough time on the trek. Time is necessary not only for “physical training” on the route but also for breaks to fully enjoy nature and to look at the non-manifested world. You can lose very much if you run without stopping, without the possibility to look around and inside.

How would you rate Nepal against all the other places that you have travelled to? Nepal is a favourite destination for travelling for us. You have every kind of travel possibility here. There are a few things about Nepal that truly fascinate us. 1. The relationships between people in the Himalayas 2. The cascade of the sacred lakes on the way

Travelling in Nepal you have the possibility to start from a tropical jungle to rich snowy mountains within a very short time. to Gosainkunda. 3. Forests during the rhododendron blossomtime 4. Everest skydiving - it is a tremendous adventure. 5. The religious tolerance in Nepal. 6. The Upper Tsum Valley - the most balanced place between people and nature which we have seen

If you had to settle in one place, where would it be? Right now we cannot imagine such a place. It is our wish to move from the South to North depending on seasons. Moving from place to place and learning new things is very important for us.

What advice and/or warnings would you give to aspiring travellers? Don’t hurry too much. Try to listen to the spirit of a place. Having an interest in creating new projects, we are always open to new ideas and suggestions. We hope our common activities will improve the quality of life and bring happiness and joy. We urge all the people in Nepal to save not only Himalayan nature but human relations as well.

We invite interesting people for collaborations! e-mail: n_neupokoeva@mail.ru neupokoeva@gmail.com

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perfecttaKeAWAYS

Text by Sumit Sharma and Yesinia Pd

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Historically, incense has been used for at least 5000 years - to accompany prayer, to worship the Gods, purify air, release negative vibrations, induce self-awareness and to uplift emotional states. In ancient texts, there have been descriptions of incense being burnt to fill the heart with euphoria and uplift the mind to its highest state. In both Hindu and Buddhist tradition incense has been used to create a favorable atmosphere for both prayer and meditation.

Finally, the incense least sought out by foreigners is prayer incense. These are used locally while praying and worshiping gods. Worshippers of both Hindu and Buddhist beliefs use incense in their rites and their prayers. This type of incense, usually non aromatic, is produced and sold locally and if anyone has a desire to use them, they can be found in Ason, the old city market in Kathmandu.

Categorized broadly in three categories, all incense serves similar purposes. The goal being to cure, remove or chase away any bad feelings or notions through purification of the air, mind and body. Herbs used in the making of medicinal and healing incense are the same herbs used to make herbal medicine. The herbs, minerals and resins are shared ingredients in herbal medicines which are still practiced successfully till this day and age. Even without the similarities to herbal medicine, herbal or medicinal incense is very strong and is recommended for people having stress and asthma disorders.

After the exile of the Dalai Lama from Tibet some fifty or so years ago, many Tibetan monks moved south of the Tibetan border into Nepal, Bhutan and India. These monks set up monasteries, and at these monasteries, following age old tradition and using secret ingredients perfected through generations of use, incense sticks are handmade till this day. The most basic incense sticks have a handful of ingredients, while the more expensive or the more powerful ones are said to have a mixture of one hundred elements; minerals, flowers, herbs, resins, roots, sandal wood, etc. Ingredients used

Although medicinal incense seems to be the flag carrier of the incense tradition, it is not. Rather aromatic incense, with soothing and calming abilities is more popular among locals and foreigners alike. Coming in an array of different flavors and fragrances, there is enough incense to tingle anyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smell buds. No matter how the ingredients smell individually, they are carefully proportioned and put together so that the end consumer gets a whole some experience by lighting just one stick of incense. Popular incense sticks in this category are Tashi incense, sweet incense and mixed aromatic incense.

The goal being to cure, remove or chase away any bad feelings or notions through purification of air, mind and body.

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when you pick up a box of incense as a souvenir for a loved one back home, remember that you’re taking something that has been a part of our culture for hundreds of years and holds immense historical and emotional value.

in each incense stick can be as common as household materials such as cloves and cinnamon and as exotic as the extracts of rare Himalayan flowers and red sandalwood. Getting a hold of incense sticks is relatively easy. One can easily roam the streets of Thamel, Ason or Bouddha and find incense of all different types. If you’ve already missed out on getting incense sticks here in the market, exporters have web portals and have foreign trade partners, making Tibetan incense available around the world. Despite the online availability of such products, its best to buy the incense after a test run to make sure it doesn’t contain anything you may be allergic to!

A large proportion of the incense sticks made here are shipped off to Europe. Due to the quality of the raw materials used in its making and its healing, medicinal and mystic qualities, incense is a big business in western markets. Through diversity, unification, rebellion and revolution, the tradition of using incense has survived and will continue to survive as a cornerstone of Nepalese culture. So, when you pick up a box of incense as a souvenir for a loved one back home, remember that you’re taking something that has been a part of our culture for hundreds of years and holds immense historical and emotional value.

Incense at a Glance: Normal Length 15 cm, 30 cm Types Prayer, Meditation, Healing, Tranquility, Serenity, Snow Lion Availability Thamel, Bouddha, Ason

For more information on incense: nature’s gift incense center (Manufacturer, Wholesaler and Retailer)

Thamel Chowk, Kathmandu Tel.: 4421528

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festivalwatch

The

Philosophical Concept

Mha Puja of

The omnipotent and omnipresent existential moment of life is embossed upon performing Mha Puja by the Newar community in Nepal. Mha puja is a grand celebration observed every year in recognition of existential moments of life on the first day of Nepal Sambat; the new yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day of the Newar community. The New Year brings with it the lush and fresh fruiting season, the autumn; when life comes in bloom with the products of mother earth. This is a celebration that recognizes human worth, dignity, and prestige.

Mha puja bears a deep sense of blessing the self for right conscience and right performance for all righteousness to disseminate inner light. This Vedic version is the conceptual essence of mha puja. The light of life glows from within us, this warmth entails all along the existential moments. It needs to be energized through continuous effort at all turns of life. The blazing oil fed wick is lighted in manifesting self existence.

Text by Tejeswar Babu Gongah

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Mandap The mandap drawn in front of a person during the festival represents the luminous bodies in the universe and our planet earth in particular. All beings inclusive of human beings are the honey of the earth while the earth itself is a hive of all beings. Before the mandap is drawn, a mark is made with water which is then dressed up on top with mustard oil, colorful decoration using vermilion powder being added later on. The tracing of this mandap with water is to purify the ground and oil is used to impress the event for a longer period of time. The illumination that is made over the mandap signifies enlightenment inherent inside each person.

course of time it took luxurious shape, yet the essence is embedded on it in its true meaning. Mari sagun is another symbol of blessing to the observant of the mha puja. The sweets have an added sweetness compassioned with making and converging life. Khein Sagun comprises of four elements, woh, with a lintel cake as the base, khein- a boiled egg, a deep fried single small fish, and meat that is first boiled then fried. Khein represents birds that fly over the blue sky. The fish represent the sea and the waters. The meat represents wilderness and

around the neck signifies concentration. Nothing seems plausible in absence of concentrated effort. The oil fed wick lamp is a symbol of self enlightenment. Even the walnut has a symbolic meaning. It is hard externally yet contains softer and tasty edibles inside it, the message being - however hard and tough the surface might be look, a soft element must remain in the depth of being. The external toughness is for a strong physique displaying mental or moral firmness. This is where one might derive aesthetic sense inherent in cultural symbolism.

Sagun The puja sagun is offered by the senior woman in the house. The ceremony is performed in a sequential order from the elderly to the young. Sagun is expressed through eight objects: a) Manda (circle with decoration) b) Mata (Light) c) Puja (Self-Worship) d) Dhau (Yogurt) e) Si (Fruits) f) Wasah (Garments) g) Mari (Sweets) h) Khein (Egg). Eight fold sagun are also addressed as Astamangala – the eight fold excellence in life. The eightfold saguns symbolically manifest philosophical, emotional, material, tangible and intangible objects in human surroundings. Mandap is the manifestation of the stars, planets and nebulas in the universe. Mata the blazing light manifests the light from within us. The Puja ceremony is recognition of human worth and dignity that each individual possesses. Dhau (yogurt) symbolizes the full moon. Dhau sagan is offered with a sense of blessing that you may be like a full moon; capacitated with an ability to keep away darkness even at night. The dignities of life do get embossed through human worth. The si (fruits) is the emblem of the human worth - the worth to produce any commendable object for human consumption. This is where one would sense the emotions underlying culture - the human heritage at large. Wasah (clothing) is one of the basic needs of human beings. In due

Khein sagun conveys a blissful non-verbal message, “May you have a wonderful journey in air, on water and even in the wilderness.” the jungles. Khein sagun conveys a blissful non-verbal message, “May you have a wonderful journey in air, on water and even in the wilderness.” Life is blissful and people have learnt to give meaning to this blissful act through performance. A blissful life is one which is blessed with a blissful heart and mind. Wishful blessings are all but an emblem of good heart and mind. Since life is a continued journey one needs a perennial shower of blessings throughout life which have a positive psychological impression on the human psyche. Each and every object used during the eve of mha puja has deep sense of symbolism. The jajanka (cotton thread) that is worn

Considering human life and evidential aroma, citrus fruit varieties are presented on the eve of mha puja. Symbolically, this fruit is not only large in shape and size but contains huge amount of fleshy edible elements. The skinny layer/strata are quite thin. Deep yellow color attracts and draws attention of the onlooker. The contents of it are useful for medicinal purposes in many ways. The symbolic meaning attached to is all about blessing and wishes upon the life in existence. Mha puja is celebrated thus – a colorful, joyous celebration of life and all that it has to offer.

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Mha Puja Nepal Pavillion Company brought together nationals from Russia, Germany and Spain to spread the good word on the Newari festival of Mha Puja.

Observed on the Newar New Year’s Day by the Newar people, Mha puja the worship of the inner self, is believed to purify, strengthen and understand oneself. Mha puja is unique as it is the only occasion when a person worships himself or herself. Newars believe that one should learn about oneself and respect one’s role in the world before trying to understand others. Mha puja is purification, strengthening and understanding of oneself for prosperity and physical well being. Like many other Newari festivals, Mha puja is exclusive to Newar culture and people. However, this does not mean that people from other cultures or religions cannot join in on the celebrations. On October 12, 2009, the courtyard at Dwarika’s Hotel was decorated with colorful mandaps, fragrant flowers and alluring lights. Nepal Pavilion had held this special

Mha Puja for expatriates to familiarize them with this unique tradition. Many people from different nationalities attended with childlike enthusiasm. There were a total of 16 participants from Russia, Spain and Germany. All of them had the opportunity to experience a traditional ceremony of self-blessing with lights and flowers surrounding them. Just like any other Newari festival, this was celebrated with full vigor and cheerful revelry. All the participants had a sense of achievement and a satisfied smile in their faces even after the ceremony. Laura from Germany said that this was indeed a special experience for her. As a matter of fact the following day was her 18th birthday and after performing the puja she felt blessed and very pleased. Jose Manuel Vilanova, from Spain said that this was a truly amazing experience and would love to participate again if this

the Mha puja. I held talks with the Tourism Board on this idea but to no avail so I decided to conduct this event myself. Last year we had nationalities from Russia, Thailand and Canada. This year, the Russian TV crew came to feature this event and other cultures of our country so we continued this trend.

What are your future plans?

Mr. Naresh P. Shrestha md, Nepal Pavilion Company

How did this concept of performing Mha puja materialized? For the last 11 years NPC has been organizing trade fairs around the world. It was here I thought of integrating our culture along with trade and tourism. Then last year, few days before the Laxmi Puja, I was talking to the Russian Ambassador who said he was keen on attending

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After such success of this event I want to take this on an international level. I know managing such cultural events on foreign lands will be difficult, but let’s hope for the best. I also have plans of focusing other unique festivals like Holi and Ehee or Bel Bibaha. Similarly I am also working on the promotion of Nepali foods from all the geographic regions of Nepal, such as Makhana from Terai, Quati from the Hills, and Tibetan tea from Himalayas. These foods give the authentic flavor of our country and therefore should be promoted.

Any message that you’d like to give to the readers of Travel times? I am gravely disappointed by the fact that at present

kind of opportunity came about in the future. Mrs Smirnov Elena from TV channel Kultura, Russia said that these kinds of festivals were an interesting way of bringing people closer and understanding cultures. After all, there is a huge difference in being a spectator and experiencing it for oneself. This is indeed a unique attempt at promoting and preserving Nepali culture by the Nepal Pavilion Company. The company was established in 1997 with an aim to organize and manage national and international events. It has been working to promote Nepal as a tourism destination in national and international market through various travel trade fairs since then. Below are some excerpts from the conversation Travel Times had with Mr. Naresh P. Shrestha, Managing Director of Nepal Pavilion Company:

tourism here only mteans airlines, hotels, rafting and travel agencies. When foreigners come to Nepal they don’t come to see the hotel and the airlines; they come to experience the local flavors and its ethnicity. Tourism they say is the backbone of our economy but still only some segments of this industry are getting the benefits. Another thing that I strongly believe is that it is high time now to explore new possibilities for tourism development. Yes, I do agree that we have the Himalayas and popular sites like Bhaktapur, Patan, Pokhara and Lumbini bringing many tourists here, but my question is: why are we solely dependent on them? Our country is multicultured; there is an immense possibility to combine culture and tourism here. I am not saying that promoting these places is a bad thing, but we need to move on and explore our other potentials. If we come up with good marketing techniques then I am sure we can reach a wider audience and bring in more tourists.

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TRIPCLIPPER

u uangzho in G Beijing in 1 Nightights Shanghai in 3N 2 Nights

ek e a w ow bel est r e v e

CHIN DAY 01 CAN Arrive in Guangzhou Airport, meet our representative and transfer to 3* Overseas Hotel/ United Star Hotel or similar. (Official Check in: 1200 hrs). Enjoy half day City tour in Guangzhou to Six Banyan Tree Temple and Chen Clan Temple. Visit Pedestrian Street and Qingping Market (B/L/D) DAY 02 CAN/PEK Transfer to the airport for the flight to Beijing, upon arrival, meet our representative and transfer to 3* Peixin Hotel or similar. Later, enjoy the Half day tour to Temple of Heaven. (B/L/D) DAY 03 PEK The day’s sightseeing begins with a visit to the heart of Beijing, Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Explore its Chambers and view the priceless treasures of China’s past. From the bustling energy of the city, move on to the tranquil retreat of the Summer Palace with its shimmering lakes. (B/L/D) DAY 04 PEK Continue your tour to Beijing with a visit to the historical Ming Tombs. After lunch, experience your journey to the Great Wall, one of the Seven Wonders of the World and stroll along this incredible place, the only manmade structure visible from space! Enjoy the breathtaking view! (B/L/D)

journey to the Jade Buddha Temple, and Yu Garden in the old town. Visit Pudong New Area and New World Acrobatics (B/L/D) DAY 07 SHA/CAN/ KTM Free time till the departure transfer to the airport to take the flight back to Guangzhou. Transfer to connecting flight for the flight back to Kathmandu by CZ-3068. (B)

Day 2: Sightseeing in Kathmandu There will be a half day guided tour to the famous and biggest Hindu shrine of Pashupatinath, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal Boudhanath, the 15th century palace of 55 windows and Swoyambhunath.

PACKAGE EXCLUSIONS • Airfare Insurance Tax • Visa Fee for China • Tips to Guides and drivers • Other services not mentioned in the itinerary

Day 3 Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2656m] The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla takes 45 minutes. We head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding.

PACKAGE INCLUSIONS • Airfare KTM/ CAN/ KTM • Domestic flight airfare with tax CAN/PEK/SHA/CAN • Round-trip transfers between airport and hotel • 6 nights hotel accommodation with 6 breakfasts inside hotel • Lunches and dinners as per mentioned in the itinerary • Excursion and services mentioned in the itinerary • An English speaking guide

DAY 05 PEK/SHA Transfer to the airport for the flight to Shanghai, upon arrival, meet our representative and transfer to 3* Zhongxin Hotel or similar. Later after the lunch, enjoy the Half day tour to the Bund and Nanjing Road. (B/L/D) DAY 06 SHA The day starts with the sightseeing

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Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu It is a panoramic thrill flying into Kathmandu on a clear day A representative and driver from our office will meet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel.

For booking or further enquiry, contact at:

Gorkha Travels Pvt. Ltd. Marcopolo Business Complex P.O.B. 629, Kamalpokhari, KTM Phone : 977 1 4440761, 4440765, Fax : 977 1 4440763 E-mail : info@gorkhatravels.com URL : www.gorkhatravels.com

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Day 8 Trek to Namche [3450m] From Thyangboche, we head back down through the forest to Phunki Tenga with its water-driven prayer wheels. We make our way back down to Namche and descend further to Chumoa. Day 9 Trek to Lukla [2900m] Our final day’s trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla.

Day 4 Trek to Namche [3450m] From Phakding, we cross and re-cross the rivers on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park. We then ascend steeply to Namche and along the way, if weather permits, catch the first glimpse of Mt Everest. DAY 05 PEK/SHA Ascending from Namche Bazaar, we pass the airstrip at Syangboche and the Japanese-built Everest View Hotel. We walk to the picturesque village of Khumjung with many old traditional houses as well as a gompa at the top end of town. Day 6 Trek to Thyangboche [3864m] Heading east, we pass a large Chorten and then descend to a bridge across the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga. From the river, the trail ascends through a forest of pine and rhododendron, before arriving at Thyangboche Monastery.

For booking or further enquiry, log on to:

Day 7 Excursion to Pangboche [3908m] Today’s visit include an excursion to Pangboche Monastery and the nunnery at Deboche.

Day 10 Fly to Kathmandu After an early breakfast, we head to the airstrip for our return journey to Kathmandu. Day 11 Depart Kathmandu The Nepalese support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. If you prefer to stay longer, you can go for short tours such as jungle safari at National parks, rafting, Tibet tours, mountain biking etc. PACKAGE INCLUSIONS • Airfare KTM/ CAN/ KTM • Domestic flight airfare with tax CAN/ PEK/SHA/CAN • Round-trip transfers between airport and hotel • 6 nights hotel accommodation with 6 breakfasts inside hotel • Lunches and dinners as per mentioned in the itinerary • Excursion and services mentioned in the itinerary • An English speaking guide PACKAGE EXCLUSIONS • Airfare Insurance Tax • Visa Fee for China • Tips to Guides and drivers • Other services not mentioned in the itinerary