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Rato Machchindranath

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Nick Griffith

at the bottom of the top of the world

1 Destination Spotlight:

Bandipur : Along a Hidden Trail

Explore and experience the mystical settlement of this ancient city, which has stood victorious even after the test of time.

14 Flight Schedule 18 Around The World After Tsunami

It was the Boxing Day of the year 2004 that Mother Nature gave a real knock

20 Hotel & Casino:

41 Global Treasures:

Spread over 11 acres of land, the hotel includes amazing restaurants, lush green lawns and intricately manicured gardens. The rooms in the hotel are facilitated to ensure that the guests are treated to maximum comfort.

I was really shocked to find that when the Eiffel Tower was first constructed, many in the artistic community of Paris signed petitions against “…the useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower.”

Soaltee Crown Plaza

Eiffel Tower

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Start travelling....with Travel Times Coupons 35 Interview + Biography: An Hour with Thinley

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Learn about this cute furry little animal which has amazed and tantalized scientists over the world with its amazing anatomy and feeding habits.

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TRAVELNEWS

Visitor Arrivals in April 2009 up by 15.8%(by air only)

The figures released by Immigration Office, Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) reveal that visitor arrivals in the month of April 2009, compared to the same month last year, have increased by 15.8% and have reached 37,819. Last year it was 32,665 in April, 2008.

For the first time in 2009, the month of April witnessed positive growth in visitor arrivals to Nepal, in a way challenging the worldwide decline in tourist arrivals. The entire Asian region registered positive growth except Japan. Visitor arrivals from every market from South Asia registered a positive growth. India which occupies largest share in visitor arrivals in Nepal recorded whopping 27.3% of growth. Similarly, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and Bangladesh witnessed positive growths of 61.2%, 29.4%, and 1.3% respectively.

Other Asian source markets: China, Malaysia, Thailand, South Korea and Singapore have regained the upward trend with 27.3%, 68.5%, 20.9%, 73% and 61.3% of growth respectively.

However, arrivals from Japan witnessed marginal negative growth of 1.3%.

The entire Europe and Oceania registered robust growth of 23.3% and 16% respectively in comparison to the same month last year. However, France and the Netherlands registered negative growth of 3.7% and 9.4% respectively. Likewise, arrivals from Canada and United States of America also registered positive growth of 20.2% and 5.8%.

The increment in the visitor arrivals reflects and reinforces the resilient nature of tourism economy which can play a crucial role towards recovery of economies which are dependent on tourism. The remarkable growth in visitors’ arrival from India and China; our immediate neighbors and major players in the intraregional tourism underscores the need to focus in the regional markets at the time of economic crisis.

A total of 41,439 foreign tourists departed from TIA in April 2009. The number of Nepalese arrivals stood at 43,444 while 45,886 Nepalese departed from TIA in April 2009.

NATTA Award for Tourism Journalism – 2066

Recognizing the contribution of media towards tourism development and acknowledging the importance of maintaining close relations with them, an Information & Media Centre has been set up at the NATTA Secretariat.

An annual ‘NATTA Award for Tourism Journalism’ has also been announced. According to NATTA President Ram Kaji Koney, the award will carry a purse of Rs. 25,000.00 along with an attractive Plaque of Honor and selection will be done in an impartial and transparent manner by a special committee. The award will be presented at the NATTA AGM This year.

Nominations will be on the basis of regular publications (in Nepali or English) about NATTA’s activities, especially upcoming mega events. Dailies and fortnightlies will be considered from amongst the print media. The published material should be sent to the Secretariat. Electronic media are requested to inform the Secretariat about the time of transmission well before time.

Nepal goes colorful in ATM Dubai- 2008 Danish mountaineer Morgen Jensen plans to summit Mt Everest and hoist the flag of the United Nations and leave a copy of Universal Declaration of Human Rights on the summit to mark the Diamond Jubilee of the declaration.

A 60-member team of Danish human right activists, including Jensen, left for Lukla on April 4. Jensen, who has already reached the summit of Mt Cho Oyu, plans to reach the summit sometimes between May 22 and 25.

The team – Human Rights Base Camp Trek – will hand over the UN flag to Jensen at the Everest Base Camp. Jensen also plans to talk to UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon from the top of summit over satellite phone.

Danish plans to hoist UN flag atop Everest

Danish mountaineer Morgen Jensen plans to summit Mt Everest and hoist the flag of the United Nations and leave a copy of Universal Declaration of Human Rights on the summit to mark the Diamond Jubilee of the declaration.

A 60-member team of Danish human right activists, including Jensen, left for Lukla on April 4. Jensen, who has already reached the summit of Mt Cho Oyu, plans to reach the summit sometimes between May 22 and 25.

The team – Human Rights Base Camp Trek – will hand over the UN flag to Jensen at the Everest Base Camp. Jensen also plans to talk to UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon from the top of summit over satellite phone.

TRAVELNEWS

Afghanistan Gets First National Park According to BBC, Afghanistan has established its first national park, Band-e-Amir, a region of deep blue lakes close to Bamyan Valley where the Taliban had destroyed two giant 1,500 year-old Buddha statues. The region is visited by thousands of Afghans, as well as pilgrims, though foreign tourism stalled with increase in violence after 1979. It is home to varied wildlife including the ibex, a species of wild goat, and urial, a type of wild sheep, as well as wolves, foxes and a variety of bird species including the Afghan snow finch, believed to be exclusive to Afghanistan.

Declaring Band-e-Amir a national park should help protect its fragile environment.

Australian Tourism Industry Optimistic In Face of Global Recession According to the Australian Tourism Export Council (ATEC) the economic crisis has increased the number of backpackers heading for Australian shores.

“The backpacker market is absolutely booming, we’ve seen visa applications up by 20 % out of Germany and Britain alone,” says Managing Director Matt Hingerty. The number of tourists visiting Australia has been predicted to fall by at least 250,000, translating into a loss of around1 billion Australian dollars (0.71 billion U.S. dollars), but Hingerty says the industry is well-equipped to bounce back. “The industry’s been through SARS, September 11, the collapse of Ansett and the Bali bombings, and we have learned and got better at recovery every time.” The government has launched an 8.5 million dollar grant program to support tourism innovation. According to Hingerty, tourists seem to be taking advantage of the heavily discounted airfares and the 900 dollars federal government cash bonus. Around 300 tourism operators will meet in Darwin to discuss the state of the industry at the annual ATEC conference to be held on April 29-30.

Liverpool FC to Play Friendlies in Bangkok, S’pore, in July

Liverpool Football Club will play two friendlies in Bangkok and Singapore in July this year as part of their pre-season preparations for the 2009-2010 English Premier League campaign and other tournaments. The Reds, who have won the English Premier League 18 times and the European Champions League 5 times, will fly direct from their training camp in Switzerland to play against the Thai National Team in Bangkok on July 22 and the Singapore National Team on July 26. “We have a fantastic group of fans in both countries and it will be great to take the lads out there again,” Manager Rafael Benitez said in a statement released here.

World’s Largest Cave Discovered in World Heritage Site in Vietnam

The Quang Binh administration has revealed that an English potholing team has discovered what is believed to be the biggest cave in the world in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a World Natural Heritage site. Located in an area that is extremely difficult to access (about six hours walk from the Ho Chi Minh trail), the Son Doong Cave is approximately 200m high, 140150m wide and over 5km long. It has replaced Malaysia’s Deer Cave as the world’s largest. During the one month trip, 20 more caves were discovered, bringing the total number in the park to 150. The English mission promised to return and carry out further exploration with more advanced technology.

Deputy Director Vu Ngoc Quy of Quang Binh’s Foreign Affairs Service stated that the English team had made several explorations since first arriving in 1995 and their research had contributed considerably to the conservation of the heritage site. Describing the cave as a thing of overwhelming beauty and grandeur, team spokesman Howard Limbirt warned against using the cave to attract tourists. He recommended preserving it for scientific research.

Passenger Demand Slide Continues – IATA

March data released by International Air Transport Association (IATA) shows demand falling 11.1% year-on-year. Airlines cut international passenger capacity by 4.4% resulting in an average load factor of 72.1%, a 5.4 % decrease from March 2008. The shift in Easter from March in 2008 to April in 2009 negatively distorts March 2009 demand by about 2%, leading to an underlying fall in March demand of 9%. IATA estimates March revenues to decline by up to 20%. “The global economic crisis continues to reduce demand for international air travel,” said Giovanni Bisignani, IATA’s Director General and CEO. Carriers in Asia Pacific continued to lead the decline with a 14.5% fall in demand, particularly in long-haul travel, outstripping a 9.3% downward adjustment in capacity. Middle Eastern carriers were the only ones to experience growth in March (4.7%). However, it remained out of balance with the 13.1% increase in capacity. According to Bisignani, IATA is working with WHO to respond effectively to the swine flu threat.

TRAVELogue

At the bottom of the top of the world

Everest Base Camp - Sally Evers & Nick Griffith

After much persuasion, I finally convinced Nick that it was a much better decision to hike for 16 days through the Himalayas, experience altitude sickness and trek to the Everest Base Camp rather than going for the easy option of flying to Jomsom, trekking 5 days downhill and having no problems of getting back to Kathmandu!

We joined a group of 5 other trekkers and our Everest Base Camp trek started in a very civilized manner with a traditional Nepalese meal and dancing which included a Nepali version of the emu; a dressed up peacock, and some mad dancer dressed up as the infamous Yeti.

The next morning was an early start to catch a flight to Lukla where we were to commence our trek. We should not have bothered getting up so early as flights to Lukla were invariably cancelled due to bad weather and had been for the last two days, thus we ended up waiting 6 hours in Kathmandu’s domestic airport with nothing to do but listen to very dated Nepalese pop videos (there’s me showing my age using the word ‘pop’). Around1 pm, we were so excited to board our twin propeller plane that looked like it would make for a fun ride...and it did. We were given cotton wool balls for our ears by the on-board hostess who had to duck ‘coz the plane was so small.

We touched down on Lukla’s airstrip that was set in a valley, only a few hundred meters long and actually went uphill! It was good to land as I was going a bit green. After meeting our team of 3 porters (we are lazy gits, I know) and two assistant guides, our first trek was a relatively easy 2 1/2 hour walk downhill (mostly) to a little village called Phadking where we stayed overnight.

Ours second day was a killer as we hiked for a good 7 hours ending with an 800m climb to the bustling town of Namche Bazaar. I had to take several rests on the climb up towards the town and of course was at the back of

Well, we could not resist seeing the remains of this legendary creature, however it looked more like an odd shaped human skull than that of a Yeti. We were not entirely convinced with the story ! ( Would you believe, I had seen a few Yetis on my way up, so could distinguish that it was a fake!!! ). the group, as I had expected to be, for the majority of the trip! Unfortunately when a couple of us enquired to our guide, the legendary KP, “Is this the hardest day?” his reply was a definitive “No, Day 6, 7 and 8 are harder than today”.

Our hotel in Namche was quite plush with an en suite room and some multiple-legged hairy bugs, a good thing as we were to spend a couple of days there acclimatizing. Namche formed the original trading route between Tibet and Nepal. Every Saturday they have a market where the locals buy anything from beer to foodstuffs that have been carried up the mountain for two days or more by the super-strong Sherpas who can carry up to 100 kilos on their backs - they are the Nepalese version of Jeff Capes and very very amazing!

After Namche we headed to a village called Khumjung (3810m). Along the route we stopped at the 5 Star Everest View Hotel built by the Japanese where we enjoyed a hot chocolate and of course the view of Everest. Khumjung is a small town where we took a short afternoon stroll to the local monastery. The attraction there was the skull of a Yeti that had been given to the town as a gift. The yeti head was very exclusive and locked away in an old gray filing cabinet viewable after the donation of a few rupees. Well, we could not resist seeing the remains of this legendary creature, however it looked more like an odd shaped human skull than that of a Yeti. We were not entirely convinced with the story! (Would you believe, I had seen a few Yetis on my way up, so could distinguish that it was a fake!!!).

Our next day was spent descending and then climbing up 600m to get 70m higher to the town of Tengboche that rests at 3870m. It’s famous for having the highest monastery in the world, which was pretty impressive; Nick saw a monk with a playstation – it’s good to know that they have some time out!

TRAVELogue

Day 6 of our schedule was spent dodging hundreds of Yaks (big hairy cow type creatures) that were making their way back from Base Camp, fully loaded with gear from recent expeditions. After a filling lunch of tomato colored, but not flavored soup, we made our way to a town called Dingboche (4620m) that was going to be our home for the next two nights.

Our rest day (Day 7) was thoughtfully spent climbing 400m up quite a big mountain to acclimatize some more and get past the magic 5000m altitude mark; it took a good three hours and was completely exhausting but worth it for the views at the top (even though the clouds had come in by the time we had got there, typical :)). Earlier we had watched runners of the highest marathon in the world (from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar). It’s pretty tough stuff as you can imagine, but the most impressive runner was an Irish guy who was blind and was running the whole marathon being guided by trekking poles attached to each wrist, pretty unbelievable to watch but we heard that he crossed the finish line at midnight. (He was guided by a friend in front holding two walking poles. The instructions varied little from “Rock, Uneven, Rock, Uneven” - you get the picture. The same guy has also done a few other crazy marathons - lowest, coldest etc.)

We were getting closer to our destination and after an uneventful but completely sleepless night in Lobuche (4930m) we made our way to Gorak Shep (the town before Base Camp at 5160m). The walk there was not the most pleasant as a lot of us were suffering from splitting headaches (a side effect of the altitude); however we made it there after 2 1/2 hours of walking. That was only the start as after a hearty breakfast and lots of lemon tea we started on a 3 hour walk to Base Camp, at last! The walk was the ‘same again’ with lots of ups and downs but the views were pretty stunning as we got to walk

alongside the Khumbu Glacier that runs down from Everest Base Camp. After a few slippery moments on the glacier we made it to the camp. It was quite cool to see where all these mad people start out the expedition but there were not too many tents left as most of the teams had already summited and left. After lots of obligatory team photos and a well deserved Snickers bar we made our way back to Gorak Shep for another sleepless night which was a killer after a good 8 hours of walking.

The next day we started our ascent of Kala Pathar, a 5545m mountain that gives great views of Everest and the surrounding horseshoe of mountains. I was quite grizzly before the ascent, having had only a couple of hours sleep and a splitting headache so only made it 100m up the mountain before I thought I’ve had enough and went back to bed. Nick made it all the way to the top and said it was an amazing view; I got to see the pictures so I was not overly concerned that I was in fact a failure! Once the proper climbers had had their breakfast we headed down, I was so pleased at this point as I had had enough of this high altitude malarkey.

It took 2 days of walking to get back to Namche Bazaar where we celebrated Nick’s 30th Birthday in style complete with drinking games, a chocolate birthday cake, and Tibetan prayer scarves that were given to Nick for good luck from the Sherpas. After a lazy rest day we walked down to Lukla - what took us 9 days to walk up, took us 3 days to walk down! I was so glad to arrive in Lukla and with our flight confirmed for the next day things were looking rosy...

Of course nothing ever turns out perfectly and the next morning we woke to clouds set into the valley...and they did not shift all day, and it rained all day- no flight for us then!

The next morning was pretty much the same story so we spent the day watching 5 different movies and playing cards, this was the longest flight delay I had experienced and it was not much fun especially when we heard the longest people had spent waiting for the weather to clear was 9 days! I contemplated walking for another 3 days to get back to Kathmandu but thankfully by day 3 of waiting the valley was visible so we made a quick exit to the airport and nervously waited for our flight. As the clouds descended again it was a bit touch and go but we did take off and I sat right behind the cockpit so watched the whole operation of the flight. It was good to be back in the hustle, bustle and smelly fumes of Kathmandu! The trekking company treated us to a celebration meal in the Rum Doodle Bar - a great way to end the trip and thanks to Himalayan Glacier (www.himalayanglacier.com) - a very good company to go with.

Overall our experience in Nepal was fantastic. Having come from the hustle and bustle of India, Nepal was a refreshing change, a place of peace, calm and serenity.

Trekking in the Himalayas was something we had only dreamed of while growing up and to realize a dream and make it to the “bottom of the top of the world” is an experience we will cherish forever. We have come away from Nepal knowing that one day we will definitely be back to visit our friends and explore of the spectacular views that it has to offer, including the activities that we did not have time for this time around. Who knows maybe next time we’ll aim for the summit instead! (All the best to us!!)

COVERSTORY

The Chariot of God Rato Matsyendranath Festival story by Utsav Shakya

It was a cold winter’s day in the Nepali month of Poush (NovemberDecember) when an inspection team from Kathmandu set off for Makwanpur in the southern belt of the country. The purpose of their visit was to search for, and choose, the perfect tree to cut down in order to make certain parts of the Rato Matsyendranath chariot. The festival of the same name would start in a few months’ time, marking a tradition that has been carried out in the ancient city of Patan year after year for decades.

The team soon found a suitable tree but, for some reason, returned to Kathmandu without performing the customary ceremony of marking the tree by making a scar-mark on its trunk.

When the team, now accompanied by woodcutters, went back two months later in Falgun (January-February) to cut down the tree and bring back the wood, the tree could not be found. Dil Kumar Barahi who had not joined the inspection team earlier was confounded and asked members of the initial inspection team if all rites and rituals had been performed the first time around. The members unwillingly accepted their mistake. Following this, animals were sacrificed, a traditional ceremony was carried out, and another tree was chosen. Just as one woodcutter was about to strike the newly selected tree to cut it down, something made him look back. What he saw startled him - the tree that had been chosen earlier was staring right back at him!

There is no shortage of skeptics who might scoff at such stories, stories that all Nepali festivals are invariably tied to. Nevertheless, an overwhelming majority of Nepalis have a strong belief about such supernatural tales. Dil Kumar Barahi is a believer. He is a modest Newari man living in Patan’s Yanga Bahal near the famed Patan Durbar Square. He runs a furniture store that specializes in traditional wooden doors and windows, the kind that are seen on so many old houses in Patan and Bhaktapur. Dil Kumar, who started tinkering around on the Rato Matsyendranath chariot since he was twelve, is largely in charge of the historic Rato Matsyendranath festival.

Machhindranath residing at Jawalakhel for Bhoto-Jatra

COVERSTORY Building the Chariot for God Dil Kumar Barahi, now 51, comes from the Barahi clan, a group originally from Assam, India, who were specially brought in to Nepal for making the Rato Matsyendranath chariot. It is the responsibility of Dil Kumar and his fellow Barahis to see to it that age old traditions dating back more than thirteen centuries are followed as strictly as possible. But talk to Dil Kumar, and he makes it feel like his is like any other job in the world! Confirmation perhaps of how, fascinating and unique religious practices such as this one are such a natural part of everyday life for every Nepali. So much so that he never stops to think twice about its mysticism and splendor.

The Rato Matsyendranath festival is one of the oldest festivals celebrated in the country. However, the festival’s significance is not just in its longstanding legacy. For a country of strongly religious people, celebration of the festival according to exacting rites year after year holds immense religious and economic significance.

The lion’s share of the enthusiasm for the festival though has to go to a chariot that basically looks like it was plucked right out of a Hindu mythological tale. Standing more than sixty feet tall in its journey through Lalitpur and across the river to Bungamati, the chariot commands attention everywhere it goes and deservedly so.

For, the making of Rato Matsyendranath’s chariot is not like the making of just any other chariot.

For starters, there is a staggering checklist of rules passed down from generation to generation that must be followed.

The people who make the chariot every year are chosen from two groups; the Barahi clan who only do the woodwork and the Yawal clan who only do rope work. Interestingly, the only metal used for support or structure on the chariot is for holding together the four huge wheels. The entire structure is made using only wood (of various kinds) and rope to tie up the different parts. A local governing body which looks after the community’s welfare (known as guthi) acts as a supervising body overseeing the entire process.

Yawals constructng the “Byamo”

Different types of wood are used to build different parts of the chariot’s body. The noticeably tall structure above the image of Matsyendranath is made up of a species of wood known locally as falnat. The rather long protrusion of wood the entire chariot rests on, and which runs from back to front, known as dhama in Newari, is made up of a single piece of wood known locally as sau. The four wheels of the chariot are made out of wood known as san-nan and the brakes are made of wood known as maeel. The four small pillars that surround the image of Matsyendranath are made up of another type of wood called lakuri. All in all, more than five different kinds of wood are used to construct the chariot.

The word Bungdya is made up of two Newari words, bung and dya. Bung refers to a place called Bungamati and dya is the Newari word for God. Bungdya is more popularly known as Matsyendranath, hence the name of the festival. In the month of Mangsir, this image of the Bungdya, which rests inside the chariot, is brought from Bungamati to Patan’s Tabahal where it is kept inside the Matsyendra Bahal temple. After this event, estimates of the wood required and other expenses are presented to the guthi. In Falgun, on approval of the guthj, the wood is brought in from the Terai. The work on the chariot takes place phase wise. About half of the wooden structure is readied in about three days by the Barahi group and then, on the fourth day, passed on to the Yawals for the rope-work.

A type of rope called baet is used to tie up the wooden parts that constitute the chariot’s main body. Certain clever tricks to strengthen the chariot tend to amuse and amaze. The baet that comes in two qualities, Chiruwa-baet and Maha-baet, is first made wet with water to shrink it considerably before using it tie up the wood. As the rope dries up naturally, it expands and automatically allows for the knots to get tighter and stronger.

Another type of rope called manila rope is used to pull the chariot on its journey through Lalitpur. This rope is brought in especially from India.

Before adding levels to the chariot, the huge wooden wheels are fitted. The construction of the wheels starts on the auspicious day of Shree Panchami. After this, the secondary part of the chariot is constructed by the Barahis and again passed on to the Yawals for the rope-work.

All in all, the chariot has to be completed within fifteen days. The woodwork has to be completed before the Snaan Jatra when the image of Matsyendranath is bathed. Almost all of the work that goes into making the chariot is easy for anyone interested enough to watch, since it is done in the wide open, besides the main road leading from Pulchowk to Jawalakhel.

A time-tested truth that these workers believe in, is that without the numerous ceremonies and sacrifices - the latter of which is now frequently frowned upon by many - the construction of the chariot is just not possible. The final wooden structure of the chariot is huge and its only support is the relatively very thin baet rope.

The structure is put to test throughout the festival with people climbing on it and pulling it from all sides on its journey through the very frequently pot-holed roads of the old city. For the chariot to endure all this is considered to be nothing short of a miracle. When proper rites and rituals are not followed, strangely, work just does not seem to get completed on time and many times the chariot is even known to topple over. To pacify the spirits perhaps - some maybe even their own - more than twelve different pooja ceremonies are performed during the construction of the chariot by priests who are collectively known as Panejus. The Panejus consist of men from the Shakya and Bajracharya communities.

The small doors and windows made up of gold along with the dhama are fixed on the same day, but before the image of the Bungdya or Matsyendranath is kept inside the chariot’s small temple. All finishing touches are completed on the same day as well.

The chariot is said to weigh more than ten tons. Thirty-six sheep are sacrificed during the construction of the wheels alone many more being sacrificed before and after every phase of construction - making this perhaps the bloodiest festival in the country. The cost of construction amounts to more than NRs. 1.5 million even when only some parts of the chariot, that have been damaged from use the year before, are made. Every twelve years, an entirely new chariot is built, costs for which reach more than NRs. 3 million. That year, the customary Bhoto Jatra, where an ancient Bhoto is displayed from the temple atop the chariot, is performed twice, once in Jawalakhel and once in Bungamati.

There are plenty of interesting tidbits related to the construction of the chariot.

Members of the inspection team that choose, mark and cut the tree to make the chariot, confide that when the tree is marked by making a wound on its trunk, the trunk bleeds a red substance that looks exactly like blood. This substance is often brought back by the priests and used as an ointment for flesh wounds by solidifying it and then grinding it into a paste with home made liquor.

From top to bottom

1. Outer skeleton with wheels fixed 2. Yawals making structure for first floor 3. Wheels being brought

Besides the tying style of the rope - now improved for strength and elasticity - little has changed in the shape and size of the chariot itself. A formal schematic drawing of the chariot was made by an overseer much later. Before such documents were available, a system of measurement common in Nepal was used, called the haat. Haat simply means the length of a normal adult person’s hand. The section of the chariot above the small temple equals thirty-two haats. Twice the circumference of each wheel equals thirty-two haats as well. The entire length of the dhama is also thirty-two haat. The reason for the number thirty-two is that Rato Matsyendranath is said to possess batttis lachchhan or thirtytwo good qualities. Another reason is that thirty-two priests, besides Matsyendranath, take part in the major ceremonies of the festival.

The story of how the Barahi people were brought into Nepal is also quite amusing.

Originally from Kamarukamachhey, now Assam in India, the Barahis were a vegetarian people in their hometown, (although since then things on the vegetarian front have not remained the same!) These workers would come to Nepal to build the chariot every year and return to Assam after work was finished.

But soon some of them got married and refused to come back and work on the chariot, as was tradition. So, the next time some of them were in Nepal, the priests cleverly fed them meat without their knowing, branding them as nonvegetarians. Since they could not go back home now, these Barahi men stayed back in Nepal for good and started to raise families here. Today they are just one of the many Newar people who live harmoniously in Patan.

4. Yawals doing betwork 5. Barahis at work 6. First fllor completion

COVERSTORY The Story of Karunamaya and the Journey of the Chariot As one of the oldest festivals celebrated in the country, the Rato Matsyendranath festival brings together people from all factions of society.

Rato Matsyendranath’s story is one that reads like a fairytale. There are many variations to the story, every one of which makes it all the more colorful further validating the popularity of the festival amongst the Nepali people.

One of the more popular stories relating to the prosperity of the people in Kathmandu valley, which was a separate country many, many years ago, goes like this. A long time ago, people of the valley were in great distress due to a drought that had crippled their cultivation and was thus wreaking havoc in everyone’s lives. The reason for the drought is said to have been Gorakhnath, a disciple of Matsyendranath, who started to pray for his master by sitting on the heads of all the snakes in the valley. Snakes are closely connected with rainfall in Nepali folklore.

Karunamaya, which is another name for Rato Matsyendranath was a deity born into a house of demons.

Karunamaya is also said to be the god of nourishment.

So, when this famine

became unbearable, the king of Bhaktapur, Narendra Dev, Bandhu Dutta Acharya, a shaman from Kathmandu and Ratan Chakra, a Jyapu man from Patan, set out to get help from Karunamaya.

Now the demons would not let the group of three take Karunamaya away so easily so the shaman used his shamanic powers to get Karunamaya’s mother sick.

When the three reached the house of demons, in modern day Bungamati, the shaman innocently pretended to cure Karunamaya’s mother, thus pleasing the demons. But this ploy proved useless in persuading the demons to agree to part with Karunamaya. So the shaman used his powers again to lure Karunamaya away from the demons’ house.

Finally, Karunamaya reached Kathmandu and necessary ceremonies were performed. The snakes, on whose heads Gorakhnath sat praying, were freed too and soon there was rain and the valley saw bountiful harvests.

But as is the nature of humans, the three who had brought Karunamaya to Kathmandu now started to argue over where Karunamaya should be kept. Nepali folklore mentions that after having salt from a person, the one who tastes the salt,

Rato Matsyendranath residing at Pulchowk

The reason for the drought is said to have been Gorakhnath, a disciple of Matsyendranath, who started to pray for his master by sitting on the heads of all the snakes in the valley. has to agree to the one who fed him the salt.

The Jyapu man from Patan, Ratan Chakra, is said to have cunningly mixed in a little salt in Karunamaya’s curd, effectively settling the dispute. This is how Karunamaya or Rato Matsyendranath came to rest in Patan’s Tabahal. The temple where Karunamaya is kept before the festival is called Matsyendra Bahal, on the left when one walks from Lagankhel towards Patan Durbar Square.

There is also a bit of mythology behind why Matsyendranath is red in color. When the aforementioned group of three - Narendra Dev, Bandhu Dutta Acharya and Ratan Chakra were trying to lure Karunamaya, her mother, wary of the shaman’s powers, prudently spread her long hair before the house’s entrance. In trying to avoid walking over the hair, Karunamaya mistakenly stepped over a single strand of hair. Since walking over any senior person’s body is deemed very disrespectful and a sin, the image of Karunamaya seems to be bleeding all over in red to signify blood. The meaning of ‘Rato’, which means red in Nepali, as a prefix before Matsyendranath, comes from here. A part of the body of Matsyendranath is also said to have been damaged because of the same reason.

Now, every year, the image of Karunamaya makes its way from Bungamati to Patan’s Matsyendra Bahal from where it is taken around Lalitpur or Patan on various days.

Karunamaya’s mother is said to have forgiven the people of Kathmandu for taking Karunamaya away from her. But to meet her child every year, Karunamaya’s mother is said to come and rest under the huge tree at the centre of the busy Lagankhel. So the chariot is taken around this tree in its journey around Patan, allowing Karunamaya’s mother to see her child once every year.

The journey is also for the Bhoto Jatra festival that takes place at the end of the Rato Matsyendranath festival. Bhoto Jatra, formerly witnessed by the living goddess, Kumari, and Nepal’s royal family, now has the President as the chief guest. But more importantly, the journey is to bless the country and its people with what Rato Matsyendranath represents nourishment and prosperity.

COVERSTORY A Glorious Past, a Troubled Present The role of the guthi is vital in the construction of the chariot and the celebration of the festival. The guthi is also the keeper of the valuables that are used in the festival such as the ornaments and the gold parts of the temple atop the chariot.

Senior members of the guthi also take part in many of the pooja ceremonies. They are also members of the inspection team that choose the wood and bring back to Kathmandu.

Located in the premises of the Matsyendranath Bahal, in front of the temple where the Karunamaya is kept before the festival, the guthi building is a strong testament to the faith Nepali people invest in such institutions by trusting them with - what the Rato Matsyendranath and other such festivals represent for many Nepali people - their identity. But the guthi is only a supervisory group and every year a lot of the costs have to be raised by the Barahis themselves. Before, the guthi had its own land that produced crops, (mainly rice) which was distributed to its members. This practice has ceased to exist, and with little incentive, makes it hard for people to dedicate themselves to the festival’s preparations.

Dil Kumar Barahi discloses how UNESCO was once interested in sponsoring the entire

festival. Besides the financial ease this would obviously have brought about, UNESCO was also interested in holding numerous training programs to help pass on the skills of building the chariot to young people.

But, like many good ideas in Nepal, this one too fell through when policy level officials muffled this idea for good. With young minds bent towards the corporate world to support their livelihoods, each passing year the festival faces new challenges of finances and workers. Dil Kumar’s own son, who used to work on the chariot, now works a ten-tofive job and has very little time to help the family out with the festival preparations. Dil Kumar’s elder brother, who led the Barahi’s work before him, resigned from his duties and passed on the torch to him.

But the Nepali people are an extremely spirited people. Religion holds a sacred and dear place in their lives, right from birth to death. Unwavering faith in a higher power is more of a reassurance to a devoted populace which believes that doing good earns them good karma and refrains them from any wrongdoings. As long as this belief continues to be rooted firmly in the Nepali mindset, there is absolutely no way that celebration of the Rato Matsyendranath festival will ever stop.

Utsav Shakya is a freelance writer and can be contacted at utsavshakya@gmail.com Cell: 9841327187

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EIFFEL

TO ER

THE OLD LADY OF PARIS

I was really shocked to find that when the Eiffel Tower was first constructed, many in the artistic community of Paris signed petitions against “…the useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower.”

My best friend Rijana recently returned from her honeymoon in France and gushed about how beautiful Paris had been.

She could not stop talking about the sights she saw and the places that she went to. Half of her conversation however was dedicated to singing the praises of the Eiffel Tower - its towering magnificence and the wondrous view from the top that she gazed at while her husband whispered sweet nothings into her ears. It was after listening to her lengthy description with rapt attention that I realized that I had been hearing about Eiffel Tower my entire life but never once had I given it much thought. Listening to her really aroused in me a new found fascination with this wonderful marvel of engineering, one of the more intriguing wonders of the world.

Eiffel Tower is perhaps one of the most recognizable structures in the world. In 1887, the city of Paris had held a competition seeking designs for a temporary monument that wasto be unveiled during the World Fair being held in 1889to mark the centennial celebration of the French Revolution. The winning designer, Gustave Eiffel, designed a huge iron latticework tower as a symbolic tribute to the French Revolution. Because the Eiffel Tower was the tallest structure in the world at the time of its construction, Eiffel put careful consideration into ensuring that the tall structure would hold up to gusty winds. In September 10,

1889, Thomas Edison visited the tower and signed the visitors’ book expressing his deep respect for the designer cum engineer. The tower is now the fifth-tallest structure in France and the tallest structure in Paris.

Originally, the tower was slated to stand for only twenty years. Part of the design contest rules stated that the structure should be made in such a way that it could be taken down easily. When the tower was completed in 1889 it was the world’s tallest tower (300m) - a title it retained until 1930 when New York City’s Chrysler Building (319 m) was completed. The tower was never meant to be a permanent installation on the Paris skyline but because it became valuable as a communications resource, it was allowed to remain in place even after the permit had expired. Over the decades since then, the tower has played an important role for the International Time Service, transatlantic radiotelephone service, radio broadcasting, and French television.

It was shocking to discover that when the Eiffel Tower was first constructed, many in the artistic community of Paris signed petitions against “…the useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower.” Nature lovers worried it would disrupt the flight of birds over Paris. The tower was met with much criticism

GLOBALTREASURE

You may not be Tom Cruise, but that should not stop you from popping the question to your special someone at the Eiffel Tower. It is cliché, of course, but the breathtaking view just might make her say yes! from the public during its construction, with many calling it an eyesore. Despite these early complaints, people flocked to ride the elevator nine hundred feet up to the third level observation platform. From the platform visitors could marvel at the uninterrupted vista of Paris from every direction. In fact, so many people visited the Eiffel Tower during its first year that almost all its construction costs were covered by just the ticket sales. Today the Eiffel Tower stands as one of the most famous landmarks of France, attracting tourists from all over the world.

Among the many fascinating facts about the tower, one that stands out as extravagant is that, of the 7.5 million kilowatt hours of electricity used annually, 580 thousand are used exclusively to illuminate the tower.

Equally intriguing to know is that the tower’s annual operation requires the use of 2 tons of paper for tickets, 4 tons of rag or paper wipes, 10,000 applications of detergents, 400 liters of metal cleansers and 25,000 garbage bags.

Visitors have two options, take the elevator, or if adventurous and strong hearted, climb the 1665 steps to reach the top. The tower has three platforms, from the topmost platform the panorama can stretch for some 80 km on a clear day. It is said that the streets and environs of Paris below unfold like a giant map. Besides promising a panoramic view, the top level contains a replica of Gustave Eiffel’s own salon complete with wax figures of the man himself. During its lifetime, the Eiffel Tower has witnessed quite a few strange scenes, including being scaled by a mountaineer in 1954, and two Englishmen parachuting off it in 1984. In 1923, the journalist Pierre Labric (who was later to become mayor of Montmartre) rode a bicycle down from the first level. Some accounts say he rode down the stairs, others suggest he rode the exterior of one of the tower’s four legs that slope outward!

Definitely, the dreamiest view of the tower is at night, when the tower literally twinkles with glittering lights. During rainfall, many people remark that the lights of the monument make the rain look like little drops of gold hitting a bronze statue. And as you step out onto the top floor, all of Paris and its lights are at your feet making you feel as if you are really above all the stars, an out of the world experience you have to witness to believe. The view of the city from the Eiffel Tower is so spectacular that it takes your breath away. And if you guys feel up to it, the Eiffel Tower is a great spot to ask for your lady’s hand in marriage. It is a well known fact that Tom Cruise proposed to Katie Holmes atop the tower. You may not be Tom Cruise, but that should not stop you from popping the question to your special someone at the Eiffel Tower. It is cliché of course, but the breathtaking view just might make her say yes!

Although the Eiffel Tower is regarded as a symbol of love, it is much more than that. It is an exemplary architectural and engineering achievement, one that is considered to be personification of art itself. It was a marvel during its time; it has stood the test of time and still continues to fascinate people today.

Although it was built more than a century ago, it still stands as a striking piece of contemporary art. The Eiffel Tower, symbol of innovative technique at the end of the 19th century, has maintained its universal image. The intricate architecture and the designer’s meticulous attention to detail inspire us to this day.

On a personal level, I find that the more I learn about this manmade marvel, the more I want to go and experience its ethereal beauty for myself. It is no longer the highest monument in the world, but the beautiful yet strange Eiffel Tower has to be seen at least once in a lifetime in order to comprehend its immense attraction. So, if you are thinking of a romantic getaway or just planning to indulge in an exhilarating experience, then Paris would be the perfect escape

PersonalityREVIEW

An hour with

THINLE The protagonist of Caravan, the only Oscar-nominated movie from Nepal, an ever strong and determined Thinle, is recuperating from the life threatening illness of stomach cancer. He says that his fight is focused on seeing his dreams being fulfilled in his lifetime.

His dreams are not personal but rather devoted to his land and his people. Thinle says, “After I recover I want to go back to my land and finish the works of irrigation and building schools that I have started. Many people have helped me and it is my responsibility to complete the tasks and repay them for their immense support.”

Thinle became a household name after the international success of the movie Himalaya (Caravan) directed by Eric Valli. Valli previously directed the widely acclaimed documentary “Honey Hunters” and has written numerous articles on Nepal. The movie was nominated for Best Foreign Film at the Oscars. The bold performance of Thinle, a man unfamiliar with cameras, and inexperienced in the bargain, has won him adulations. Thinle says “All the praise that I’ve received would not mean a thing if the development of Dolpa remains at a standstill.”

Born in 1942 in Saldang village, Thinle Lundup Lama has led his people for a long time. He has served as ward president and chairperson of the Village Development Committee.

He was also a part of the District Panchayat during the days of the Panchayati system. He has been involved in yak caravan trade his entire life, bringing salt from Tibet and taking back various foodstuff for the snowy season from the lower plains.

He is saddened by the bitter fact that due

“I welcome everyone to come and explore the uniqueness of Dolpa” -Thinle to salt import from India, the age-old source of income generation of the Dolpa people is now in danger.

He has many stories to share with us of the times he led numerous yak caravans. But none is more fascinating and of more importance than his meeting with Valli. Thinle recalls, “I met Valli in 1987. I remember the production of maize was all ruined that year. We were returning from a caravan and Valli followed us. I never imagined that the meeting would be so significant and I would find a friend in him. He used to come to Dolpa often, but once he disappeared for about eight years and then suddenly he came and asked me to help him make a documentary. I agreed and thus The Caravan came into being.”

The most important thing about the movie was that it not only gave national and international recognition to Thinle but also introduced Upper Dolpa to Nepal and to the world.

Upper Dolpa, a remote and inaccessible area of Nepal, became the center of attention of the whole world. It also marked Dolpa as a popular travel destination for tourists and adventurers from all over the globe. Thinle says that for a few years after the release of the movie the number of tourists visiting Dolpa increased considerably. But, along with the country as a whole, Dolpa too faced an alarming attrition of visitors due to the escalating violence in the country. Now, with a greater degree of peace prevailing, he hopes that once again, Dolpa will be a popular travel destination for Nepalese tourists as well as for foreigners. However, he feels that the prevalent lack of necessary infrastructure might create some hindrances.

Dolpa is indeed a paradise. Also known as “Bu Yal” meaning Hidden Valley, it is home to Phoksundo Tal, the deepest

Dolpa is cursed due to its difficult terrains but at the same time is gifted with alluringly beautiful lakes, unique living creatures and wonderful panoramic landscapes. I welcome everyone to explore the uniqueness of Dolpa. lake in Nepal. The lake is devoid of any aquatic life and so is absolutely pure and pristine. The remoteness has provided the place with an aura of mystery that further enhances its beauty. During our visit, the altruistic Thinle told us about his organization www.caravanthinle.org which he established to commence and assist development projects in Dolpa. The foremost objective of the organization is to start plantation of the Jayangma tree, the only tree that can survive in the extreme climatic conditions of Upper Dolpa. The irrigation work initiated with the help of Dr. Shankar Sharma is incomplete as the pipes brought in from Nepalgunj have to be transported to Upper Dolpa via Tibet, which, Thinle complains, is difficult and time consuming.

With a grave look on his face, Thinle says “I am getting old and it is my dream to make my people capable of walking hand in hand with the rest of the country. For this to happen, linking of roads from Tibet to Dolpa is of the utmost importance as it will facilitate other development projects.”

Thinle also lamented about the poor health conditions in Dolpa.

“There are two health posts in the VDC but only one doctor.

Good doctors are always reluctant to stay in Dolpa.” He adds that irrigation, education and tree plantation are other issues he is working on and hopes that the people of Dolpa can achieve the basic standards of life that they are currently deprived of.

Thinle acknowledges that Dolpa has immense potential for tourism. “Dolpa is cursed due to its difficult terrain but at the same time is gifted with alluringly beautiful lakes, unique living creatures and wonderful panoramic landscapes. I welcome everyone to explore the uniqueness of Dolpa.” He adds with a sparkle in his eyes “Tourism industry can be an important factor in uplifting the economy of this district as a whole. I’ve heard that the number of tourists visiting Dolpa has increased and I hope this trend will continue.”

Along a hidden trail...

BANDIPUR Bandipur, situated at an altitude of 1030 meters in the Western hills of Tanahu district, is an ancient Newari town that used to be the main trading center from the late 18th century to recent times before being replaced by Damauli which later became the district headquarters. Bandipur is a mere three and a half hours drive from Kathmandu along the Kathmandu-Pokhara highway, eight kilometers of which is graveled from Dumre onwards. You can also follow a popular two hours foot trail from Dumre bazaar to get there. The town is 143 kilometers from Kathmandu and 73 kilometers from Pokhara.

R

DESTINATIONSPOTLIGHT

Home to the largest caves If you are a traveler in a hurry, you’d be tempted to pack your bags and head towards Pokhara for the ultimate vacation.

And, even if you are not, chances are that you might still choose Pokhara for a quiet retreat. Either way, you’ll be missing the hidden trail that leads to the small and serene paradise of Bandipur. With cobbled, moderately steep paved streets and traditional Newari styled houses, Bandipur is an interesting destination, one that gives

you the feel of returning back into time and witnessing the serenity and mellowness of a bygone era. Bandipur’s rich cultural past still remains intact, and along with it, offers a magnificent natural vista as well.

The region is also well known for its many mystical caves. Doubtless, Bandipur is a beautiful destination with an otherworldly exoticism capable of mesmerizing all, from historical researchers to cultural enthusiasts, nature lovers to adventurous explorers.

DESTINATIONSPOTLIGHT

The Place That Was Bandipur was the headquarter of Tanahu district for much of its history. According to historians, King Mukunda Sen of Palpa unified much of western Nepal and his kingdom was divided among his four sons after his death. Tanahu was then ruled over

by Bhringgu Sen and his descendants until King Prithivi Narayan Shah conquered the place in the process of unification of modern Nepal. The alleged stories passed through generations claim that Prithivi Narayan Shah took control of Tanahu by conspiring against their king. He challenged the King of Tanahu for a duel without weapons while hiding his own weapon under the sand. Later, seeing the right opportunity, he took out his weapon and captured the king eventually taking command of the district. From this story we can surmise that Tanahu and Bandipur used to be powerful kingdoms during historical times.

Bandipur originally was a Magar settlement during the 1800’s. The third largest ethnic group in Nepal, the Magars still reside in villages like Ramkot and are scattered around the surrounding hills of Bandipur.

It was only during late 18th century that Newars from the Kathmandu valley, especially Bhaktapur, started migrating to Bandipur. They brought along with them their cultural heritage and architecture,

which basically has remained unchanged to this day. Historians point out various reasons for Bandipur becoming a popular destination for the Newar migrants back then. Firstly, it is surmised that after the invasion of Kathmandu valley by King Prithivi Narayan Shah, many Newar inhabitants migrated to other places, one of which was Bandipur. Since Bandipur had similar altitude and similar climatic conditions with that of the valley and was safe from the dangers of malarial epidemic, many migrating Newars might have found it appropriate to settle in Bandipur.

Secondly, Newars, also well known for their business skills, probably wanted to cash in on the trading route along the Marsyangadi valley to Tibet and downwards towards India. With the influx of new inhabitants, Bandipur became a busy trading center in no time. During the 9th century, Bandipur was popular among merchants from Tibet and the northern plains.

Later, the town started losing its value as malaria was eradicated from the Terai and many settlers moved back to the lower plains.

The district headquarters was also moved from Bandipur to Damauli. The construction of the Kathmandu–Pokhara Highway bypassed the town, which became another reason for the place falling into a state of seclusion.

The Place That Is...

Today, the town still carries the glory of yesteryears as its relative isolation has contributed in keeping the originality of the place intact. You can experience the essence of traditional Newari culture in Bandipur that still remains in its purest form today.

One can also see many examples of Newari art and architecture in the temples and buildings of the tow. Besides this, Bandipur also has numerous natural attractions including various caves, beautiful forests, hilltops, landscapes and a panoramic view that captivates the hearts and souls of all visitors.

The houses are structured in traditional Newari design. The maintenance of the old houses is done with such meticulous detail and exactitude that their authenticity is not lost. The various shrines like Khadga Devi temple, Bindebasini temple and the Maha Laxmi temple, located in and around the town, also reflect and match the architecture of the Malla era. Despite being small, Bandipur projects the beauty of emblematical Newari art and architecture.

The people still follow traditional norms of Nepali culture like “Atithiti Devo Bhava” (“Guests are Gods”) and are extremely hospitable to guests. You can stay in numerous guesthouses in the town and

be assured of receiving traditional Newari hospitality.

Bandipur is blessed by nature and the two most notable caves found there are Swargadwari and Siddha Caves.

Swargadwari Cave, also known as Paatali Dwar, is a two-hour hike from the main town. The cave is considered to be the gateway to heaven hence it is named as Swargadwari (doorway to heaven). Similarly, Siddha Cave, which is the largest cave in Nepal and has even been presumed to be the largest cave in Asia, is a newly discovered cave and has yet to be fully explored.

Bandipur being a hilltop settlement is well suited for mountain-viewing too. On a clear winter day the mountains sparkle bright with a white and yellowish hue against the blue backdrop of the sky. Tudhikhel, a flat field on the northern end of the town, the historical fort of Mukundeshawori and the Gurunche Hill are places famed for a panoramic view that encompasses nearly 900 Km of the delightful Himalayan range. The mountains that can be viewed from Bandipur extend from Jugal Himal in the east to Langtang Himal, Ganesh Himal, Gorkha Himal, Manaslu Himal, Himchuli Himal, Buddha Himal, Annapurna Himal, Dhaulagiri Himal

and Kanjiroba Himal to the west. Make sure of being there at the right time of the year and you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Himalayan range that is simply awesome.

The other enticing thing about Bandipur is its numerous small hiking trails leading to beautiful landscapes, forests and villages. A four-hour walk to the Magar village, Ramkot, gives you a typical overview of life of the Magar community. You can continue this hike up to Chapdi Barahi and to the popular Narayan Temple with its fishponds; the distance, about an hour from Ramkot. Another popular hiking route is a two hour hike to Mukundeshawori, a place dedicated to the goddess who is believed to have given King Mukunda Sen immense power and strength.

The locals, and especially the Magars, believe the temple to be full of occult power. Another short hike from Bandipur also takes you to Bahun Bhanjyang past Raniban.

Bandipur has recently been recognized as a potential tourism spot. The place is the perfect blend of awe-inspiring nature and untainted culture. As it is opening up rapidly to embrace the outer world, it would be good idea for travel enthusiasts to get their gears ready to experience the natural aura and traditional mysticism of this ancient city before it is too late.

PEOPLE&CULTURE

Etiquette is that Important in Japan — Amar B Shrestha Stories of westerners being ostracized for not knowing about the intricacies of Japanese etiquette have been a common theme running through many novels based on Japan. The Japanese are a very sensitive people, very fastidious about etiquette not only in their ways of doing business or during social gatherings, but also in how they eat and how they behave within their own homes as well. In Japan, there is a correct way of doing things and the ‘correct way’ can include so many things that one will really have to live in Japan for some time before claiming to know it all.

On eating, alone, a website, ‘Japanese Manners and Etiquette’, lists 24 do’s and don’ts. Among others things, it is impolite to pour your own drink when eating with others, you pour your companion’s drink and your companion pours yours, and when eating noodles, it is okay to make slurping sounds.

When visiting or when in restaurants, one is offered a moist rolled-up towel called an ‘oshibori’ to wipe one’s hands with. It is impolite to wipe the face and neck with it. Do not put sugar or cream in Japanese tea. Saying ‘Itadakimasu’ before eating and ‘Gochisosama deshita’ after eating is customary as is ‘Kanpai’ for ‘Cheers’.

According to japan-guide.com, the proper usage of chopsticks is the most fundamental element of Japanese table manners. Chopsticks should be held towards their end and should not be used to spear food. Don’t point your chopsticks at others and do not wave them around in the air or play with them. Neither should they be used to move around plates or bowls. Use the opposite end to take food from a shared plate and be very very careful not to stick your chopsticks into your food, particularly rice, and do not pass food from your chopstick to another’s. These are funeral traditions.

It is worthwhile knowing the proper ways to eat some of the traditional Japanese dishes like rice, sushi, sashimi, miso soup, noodles and Kare Raisu.

You can lift the rice bowl towards your mouth while eating but please do not pour soya sauce over white rice. Emptying to the last grain of rice is considered good manners. As far as sushi is concerned, pour some soya sauce into the small dish provided because wasting it is bad manners.

Generally, a sushi piece is to be eaten in one bite.

As for sashimi, again, a little soya sauce should be

Use the opposite end to take food from a shared plate and be very very careful not to stick your chopsticks into your food, particularly rice, and do not pass food from your chopstick to another’s. poured into a small dish. Put some wasabi on the sashimi piece and dip it into the soya sauce. Miso soup may be drunk straight out of the bowl and the solid food pieces can be fished out with chopsticks.

When eating noodles, use your chopsticks to lead them into your mouth and yes, slurping is okay. Kare Raisu (Japanese style curry rice) and other rice-sauce dishes may be eaten with large spoons.

Once seated in a restaurant, water or free tea is immediately served along with an oshibori. At some restaurants, such as izakaya, everyone in the party order and share various dishes. In most restaurants, you pay your bill to the cashier when leaving. Many ramen and gyudon restaurants have vending machines where you can buy ‘meal tickets’.

When entering a house, shoes are replaced by slippers at the door and even these are removed when entering a room with tatami floor.

PEOPLE&CULTURE Whatever the type of restaurant, you are not expected to tip but you are expected to say ‘gochisosama deshita’ (‘thank you for the meal’) when leaving.

Besides the fine art of eating, there are particular rules governing etiquette for different places and different situations. For example, when in the house, while visiting shrines, when talking a bath, when giving gifts, when doing business, and so on. When entering a house, shoes are replaced by slippers at the door and even these are removed when entering a room with tatami floor. Nowadays, both Japanese style rooms with tatami floors and modern rooms with wooden or tiled floors are usually found in Japanese homes.

Made of straw, tatami mats measure about 180 cm x 90 cm.

Special toilet slippers are to be worn when in the washroom. As for bathing, the Japanese do not do so just to cleanse themselves but also as a means of relaxation. When bathing, one is to first rinse one’s body with a washbowl outside the bath tub. The tub is for soaking purposes only. After soaking, leave the tub and soap yourself. Then rinse once more and enter the bath tub for a final soaking. The water is usually left for the next member of the house which explains the above intricacies.

In Japan, sitting upright on the floor is common. For instance, meals are traditionally held on tatami floors around low tables and during traditional events like the tea ceremony, sitting on the floor is customary. The formal way of sitting is kneeling (seiza).

In casual situations, men usually sit cross-legged while women sit with both legs to one side. As for seating arrangements, the most important guest sits on the honored seat (kamiza), located farthest from the entrance while the host or least important person sits next to the entrance (shimoza). If the room has a tokonoma (an alcove displaying a scroll (kakejiku) and a flower arrangement (ikebana)) the guest will be seated in front of it. People greet each other by bowing. If on a tatami floor, people get on their knees to bow. Bowing to express thanks, apologize, to make a request or to ask a favor is also customary.

Japanese worship in both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.

Knowing the proper etiquette when visiting both is obviously very important. When at a temple, demonstrating respect by throwing a coin into the offering box and saying a short prayer in front of the sacred object is a good start. Burning incense (osenko) is customary in some temples but remember to wave out the flame after lighting the incense instead of blowing it out. When entering temples, take off your shoes. Photography is forbidden indoors at some temples. When visiting a shrine, first rinse both hands by ladling fresh water from the purification fountain near the shrine’s entrance. Then cupping water, rinse your mouth and spit the water beside the fountain. Do not transfer the water from the ladle into your mouth or swallow the water. In the offering hall, toss a coin into the offering box, bow deeply twice, clap your hands two times, deeply bow again and pray for some time. You may use the gong before praying to get the kami’s (diety’s) attention. You should not visit a shrine if you are sick, have an open wound, or are in mourning. Usually, photography is permitted at shrines.

Exchanging gifts is a way of life in Japan. In December and in June, relatives, friends and co-workers exchange gifts called oseibo and ochugen respectively. The gift may be food, alcohol, household items and so on. One often presents a gift of Japanese

sweets or sake (temiyage) to thank somebody. When returning from a trip, a Japanese man or woman will bring home souvenirs (omiyage) for friends, colleagues and relatives.

Although not a Japanese tradition, gift giving on birthdays and Christmas is common today. Gifts are to be given and received with both hands. One should not give certain kinds of gifts that are believed to cause bad luck.

Doing business in Japan is serious business. Appropriate dressing is a must. The seating arrangement in a business meeting will be according to status and you will be directed to the appropriate seat. At the head of the table will sit the highest ranking person from the host side and those of higher status will sit closest to him. You should stand and wait for the top person’s permission to be seated. Exchanging of visiting cards is done at the beginning of meetings. Stand when exchanging cards with higher ranking people. Your visiting card should be double sided, in both English and Japanese. This conveys the message that you are serious about doing business and that you respect their culture. Bow slightly and hand over the card (with the Japanese side up) with your right hand or with both hands. Do likewise when

Your visiting card should be double sided, in both English and Japanese. This conveys the message that you are serious about doing business and that you respect their culture.

receiving others’ visiting cards and show interest in the other person by reviewing his card carefully. If beverage is served at the beginning of the meeting, as is usually done, you should wait for the top person to drink before starting on yours. It’s a good idea to bring a small hometown souvenir to give to your host and if in return, you are given an unwrapped gift, show appreciation profusely. If it is wrapped, don’t open it during the meeting. Show that you are interested in the meeting by taking notes but never write anyone’s name in red ink. After the meeting, wait until the top man rises to his feet before standing up yourself.

However, in hostess bars, drinks can cost you the earth, so one has to be consider this aspect too. Be gracious if you are asked personal questions you don’t want to answer because some questions considered rude back home are not necessarily impolite in Japan. The Japanese like to drink with and after dinner but if you don’t drink yourself, make up an excuse and don’t be angry if your hosts push you to drink.

When eating, show appreciation and make efforts to show that you are enjoying the food. Hopefully, by doing all the above, you will have created a favorable impression on your Japanese hosts resulting in a fruitful end to your business trip.

Socializing is an important part of doing business in Japan.

If you go out for dinner, you as the guest can expect a free evening of entertainment. Even if it is normal for the evening to be on the inviting party, you should make at least an attempt to pay. It is good manners to offer reciprocation in equal measure when and if the host visits your home country at a future date. Since the Japanese rarely invite foreigners to their homes, dinner meetings are normally held in restaurants and it is usual to extend the evening by going to a coffee shop or a bar later. You can offer to pay for the coffee or drinks.

The Japanese are very proud of their ancient culture and quite particular about the traditionally correct way of doing things. If you are planning to visit their country, you should make efforts to acquaint yourself with at least some of the fundamentals of Japanese etiquette so as not to embarrass yourself. Because in Japan, annoying your fastidious hosts through bad manners might quite easily lead to the loss of even the most almost-done deal.

Oh yes, etiquette is that important in Japan!

ADVENTUREINTRO

Prepare to get very, very wet as you climb, swim, slide and float through spectacular and mysterious green worlds full of sculptured rock forming narrow gorges with numerous drops, beautifully sculpted walls, and stunning waterfalls with sparkling and crashing cascades. It is a unique water and rock adventure, where you will find yourself plunging down a steep canyon, past wild rock formations and through powerful blasts of water.

If you still cannot figure out what I am talking about, it’s

Canyoning!

However, there are many more canyons that need to be explored, as the potential is phenomenal. This new form of tourism could be developed here in the years to come, the idea being that this activity could contribute in a meaningful way to the economy of the country.

Canyoning, also known as canyoneering in the US, is done in mountain canyons with flowing water. Portugal, Australia, New Zealand, Spain, France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany etc. are just a few of the countries where it is already a established sport. Canyoning is frequently done in remote and rugged settings and if you are apt at navigational, route finding and other wilderness travel skills, then you are in for the treat of your lifetime. Deep, dark, narrow and twisting, these canyons are places forgotten by time and forsaken by light. Carved by water over many thousands of years, their sandstone walls and waterfalls make them a challenge to visit. Canyons can be very easy or extremely difficult, though emphasis in the sport is usually on aesthetics and fun rather than pure difficulty. A wide variety of canyoning routes are found throughout the world and canyoning is enjoyed by people of all ages and skill levels.

Canyoning gear includes climbing hardware, static ropes, helmets, wetsuits, and specially designed shoes, packs, and rope bags. While canyoners have used and adapted climbing, hiking, and river running gear for years, more and more specialized gear is being invented and manufactured as canyoning popularity increases. Although this sport is completely unique it is often assimilated to rafting or rock climbing. This adventure unique combination of mystical landscape and mountain rivers of this country gives the intrepid canyoneer the freedom to explore some of the most ruggedly

beautiful, yet forbidden places in the virgin parts of the Himalayas. There are various levels of canyons to suit your needs, from exploratory walks for school children to some of Nepal’s most extreme environments for the reckless thrill-seekers.

Canyoning hotspots in Nepal are Langtang, Modi Khola, Sun Kosi, Kanchangunga, Kali Gandaki, Bhotekoshi, Sundarijal, Kahule Khola, Kanglang Khola, Bhukuthe Khola, Panglang Khola, and Kanglang Khola. All these canyons offer very variegated experiences unique to each that will make you wanting for more, with some really challenging rappels, high pool jumps, water slides and rock hopping all the way down to the bottom. However, there are many more canyons that need to be explored, as the potential is phenomenal. This new form of tourism could be developed here in the years to come, the idea being that this activity could contribute in a meaningful way to the economy of the country.

However thrilling the sport may be, one should be aware of the risks involved. Canyons with significant water flow may be treacherous.

Hydraulics and undercurrents occur in flowing canyons and can trap or pin and drown a canyoner. Another potential danger of many canyoning trips is a flash flood, when water levels in the canyon rise due to a large amount of precipitation. Hypothermia can also be a serious danger in any canyon that contains water, during anytime of the year.

There is also the fact that any mistake can be fatal in a sport where one slip on the rope can result in a plunge to the death. Escape out the sides of a canyon is often unfeasible, and completion of the descent is the only possibility. Rescue may be unattainable for several hours or several days. While I don’t want to turn you off canyoning, I can’t stress enough on the need for safety. Make sure you know what you are doing, what the hazards are, and have an expert in canyoning to guide you.

Your safety largely depends on your judgment based on competent instruction, experience and a realistic assessment of abilities and understanding of current canyon conditions.

Canyoning is an exhilarating sport perfect for enjoying the thrills and extremes of nature.

With the excitement of skidding down high slopes and the reward of diving into a pool of pristine water, one can ask for no other elating experience. So if you are itching to do something wild and have some fantastic outof-this-world fun stories to tell your friends, then canyoning is definitely for you. Get your daredevil gear on!

Canyoning in Nepal

Canyoning involves going down beautiful but steep waterfalls, swimming in narrow gorges, jumping down as much as ten meters or even more in deep waterways. It is an amazing body and mind experience involving exploration of narrow, steep chasms by abseiling in and then combining swimming, jumping, and sliding down the walls and water courses to the deep pools below.

Soaltee Crowne Plaza THE PLACE TO MEET.

The Soaltee Crowne Plaza Hotel has the wellearned reputation of being an establishment that offers the best in comfort and hospitality. Suitably well located, the hotel’s high standard of services and its many customer friendly facilities are geared towards ensuring for a most comfortable stay when in Kathmandu. It would be fair to say that the Soaltee Crowne Plaza is probably the most prominent hotel in the Capital. Four decades of providing uninterrupted quality service to its guests has resulted in such excellence as to be difficult for others to match. Reason enough why the Soaltee Crowne Plaza is recognized as the premier five star deluxe hotel of Nepal.

Inaugurated as Hotel Soaltee Oberoi in 1967, it metamorphosed into Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza in 1998. The hotel opened its doors at a most opportune time. A time when Kathmandu was a mecca for hippies from all over the world and tourist inflow into the country was at a peak. From those days onwards to the gradual development of Nepal as a prime tourism hub, Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza has been witness to many ups and downs and in the process, has become a landmark in itself. The hotel is internationally popular and already very well known to many who visit Nepal. The hotel has played host to not only hundreds of thousands of holiday tourists but also to innumerable businessmen, corporate executives and denizens of the glamour world, as well as to various dignitaries including guests of the state.

The hotel is well located and is perfect for conveniently exploring the charms of the city. Away from the hustle and bustle of city life and well ensconced within serene surroundings, a satisfying feel of peace and tranquility prevails within its environs. However, despite being on the

HOTELS&cASINOS quiet outskirts of town, the hotel is easily accessible and just a 15-minutes drive away from Tribhuwan International Airport and 10 minutes away from the city center. The feeling of peace is enhanced by the view of the famous Swayambhunath Temple, dedicated to an incarnation of Lord Buddha, and regarded as a symbol of peace and justice, which is just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. The location is also fabulous for the awe-inspiring view of misty mountain slopes along with the scenic beauty of the majestic Himalayan range and perfect for exploring various tourist attractions in the city.

Spread over 11 acres of lush green lawns and intricately manicured gardens, the hotel provides a wide array of accommodation types to suit personal preferences, from 283 Superior, Deluxe and Crowne Plaza Club Rooms to 8 Executive and 7 Regal Suites. All the rooms, as expected, are so facilitated as to ensure the maximum comfort possible. A shopping arcade within the hotel grounds makes it convenient to purchase gifts and souvenirs for loved ones back home.

Products on offer range from leather goods to pashmina items and jewelry to a wide range of Nepali made products.

The hotel has been successful in providing more than satisfactory services to many VVIPs including various heads of state, high ranking government officials, international movie stars and acclaimed musicians besides global leaders of the business world during their visit to Nepal, making their trip to this beautiful and spiritual country even more memorable. Distinguished guests like Queen Elizabeth, former US President Jimmy Carter, US Senator Hillary Clinton, former Prime Minister of Pakistan Late Benazir Bhutto, former General Secretary of United Nations Kofi Annan and Managing Director of Reliance Industries Anil Ambani are just some of the few who have praised the hospitality of the hotel. The hotel is so adroit at attending to royalties and celebrities that you feel no less a celebrity yourself during your stay here.

Miss Universe 1994, Sushmita Sen, after her stay in the hotel, had this to say, “Thank you so much for making my first visit to Nepal a very memorable one...Your warmth and hospitality has left me wishing for another visit soon”. Her comment reflects the high level of service the hotel provides to make all its guests feel welcome by adding that little bit of extra care and attention which sets it apart for many other hotels.

Ms. Sagina Manandar, Assistant Marketing Manager of the hotel, maintains proudly “We really try to uphold our standards and satisfy the needs of every guest. Our hotel is therefore the best place to meet, eat, stay and work.”

Every feature regarding the hotel has been carefully planned to make sure that the guests get nothing but the very best. There are lots of relaxing options for guests, including a top class health club where one can unwind after a hectic day of sightseeing and a swimming pool designed in neoclassical architecture, a plunge into which is sure to revitalize the weariest soul. You can also enjoy a game of bowling with friends and family at the in-premise bowling alley or let yourself be pampered with

HOTELS&cASINOS

a wide range of beauty treatments by professionals at the beauty salon and barbershop here. And of course, you can try your luck at Casino Nepal, the biggest casino in the country, open 24 hours.

Whatever your tastes, you can indulge in the five worldclass restaurants and a bar situated in the hotel’s premises.

These five excellent restaurants, successful in capturing the essence of five different styles, are certain to satisfy all of your cravings. The Rodi Bar, which serves as the social and business rendezvous, is just besides the main entrance. The bar is great for socialization between the guests and to get rid of your boredom with some quick drinks in a relaxing ambience.

The Garden Terrace and Coffee Shop is the main restaurant and it serves multi-cuisine (Continental, American, Oriental, and Indian) breakfasts, meals and light snacks. The Patisserie Cake Shop, just besides The Garden Terrace, tempts you with mouth-watering pastries and chocolate cakes. China Garden offers Chinese and Oriental cuisine, which instead of being conventional, have a deliciously exotic twist. Kakori is a neo-traditional restaurant adorned with Indian carvings and European furnishing, serving exquisite North Indian Awadhi cuisine of Luknow. Regarded as the best restaurant of the hotel, the Al Fresco offers authentic Italian fare. Here, you will be greeted with the strong and delicious aroma of olives and cheese and the food is certain to titillate your taste buds.

From time to time, various programs like Pasta Promotion Week, Mango Celebration Month, and so on, are organized by the restaurants.

Providing facilities for corporate meetings and conferences is another important client service Hotel Soaltee offers.

Everything from large conference halls, a small hall for programs and press conferences, projectors, sound system, online facilities, technical services, and skilled staff are made available. The Megha Convention Center and The Malhar Convention Center are the two main conference halls that can also be combined to make a larger hall for big conferences. State-of-the-art audio-visual equipment is available with fully trained technicians on hand to ensure a professional edge to any conference. A modern Business Centre is also located in the complex, providing full support to the meetings and conferences in progress.

The place with a perfect blending of business, pleasure, comfort and leisure, Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza is just right for your ultimate vacation to the Himalayan republic of Nepal. Ms. Manandhar asserts, “We are presently working on being a top class corporate hotel following the MICE (Meetings, Incentive, Conference, and Events) formula. At the same time, we want to invite leisure travelers to come and enjoy our hospitality too. Your stay in Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza is guaranteed to be comfortable, luxurious and an experience of a lifetime.�

NATURE&WILDLIFE

RED PANDA nigalya ponya “eater of bamboo” The red panda has stumped scientists. The problem of its classification is capable of giving any taxonomist very violent headaches. Where do you categorize an animal which is classified as a relative of the giant panda, but has anatomical features similar to the raccoon in the hierarchical system? It shares the giant panda’s rainy, high-altitude forest habitat but resembles a raccoon in size and appearance. The scientists came up with a simple solution - currently, red pandas are classified under their own unique family—the Ailuridae!

These reddish brown, long-tailed, raccoon like animals, about the size of a large cat, usually reach a body length of 50 - 64 cm at adulthood, with a big bushy tail that adds about 30 - 60 cm.

It weighs approximately 3 - 6 kg. The red panda has soft, thick fur- rich reddish brown above and black underneath. The face is white, with a stripe of red-brown from each eye to the corners of the mouth; and the tail is faintly ringed. The feet have hairy soles, and the claws are semi-retractile. The pandas wrap their tails around themselves to keep away the cold in the chilly mountain heights.

The red panda is found in a mountainous band from western Nepal through northeastern India and Bhutan and into China, Laos and northern Myanmar. The species also lives throughout mountainous areas of southwestern China. Red pandas only live in temperate forests in the foothills of the Himalayas. They reside at altitudes generally between 1500 and 4800 meters where the temperature is generally cool, and there is little annual variation.

A bamboo understory grows in these forests and provides the bulk of the red panda’s diet. However, these patches of bamboo are only found in narrow bands throughout the red panda’s range.

Thus, although red pandas are distributed across thousands of miles of territory, they are restricted to these small, fragile areas.

The red panda’s diet mostly consists of bamboo, very unusual for a mammal. Their broad teeth and strong jaws allow them to chew bamboo’s tough leaves and stalks. They also have a small, bony projection on their wrists that helps them grip bamboo stalks. When the weather is warm enough, it sometimes supplements its diet with fruits. It has also been reported to occasionally eat berries, blossoms, fungi, seeds, acorns, eggs, young birds, small rodents, and insects. To cope with the lack of food during the winter months and meet their energy demands red pandas can spend as much as 13 hours a day foraging for food. They also have a very low metabolic rate and can slow their metabolism even further in cold temperatures. The thick fur that even covers the soles of their feet allows them to conserve body heat. With a diet that relies mainly on bamboo, that grows sparsely and sporadically, and deforestation for timber, fuel and agricultural land, their habitat is shrinking day by day.

The red panda lives high in the mountains among rocks and trees and climbs trees with agility. It seems to do most of its feeding on the ground. It uses trees not only for feeding but also to escape ground-based predators, and to sunbathe high above the canopy of leaves in winter. They are primarily crepuscular, as being active in the night and most active during the early morning with slightly decreased activity around midday. On average, they are awake for only 56% of the day.

WHERE DO YOU CATEGORIZE AN ANIMAL WHICH IS CLASSIFIED AS A RELATIVE OF THE GIANT PANDA, BUT HAS ANATOMICAL FEATURES SIMILAR TO THE RACCOON IN THE HIERARCHICAL SYSTEM? IT SHARES THE GIANT PANDA’S RAINY, HIGHALTITUDE FOREST HABITAT BUT RESEMBLES A RACCOON IN SIZE AND APPEARANCE.

Interesting Facts about the Red Panda • The Chinese name for red panda is hunho or firefox, due to their colour and similar size to a fox.

• Like giant pandas, red pandas have an extra ‘thumb’ which is actually just an enlarged bone.

• A red panda can consume up to 45 percent of its own body weight daily eating approximately 200,000 bamboo leaves in a day.

• The origin of the name “panda” is the Nepalese word “Nigalya ponya”, which means “eater of bamboo”.

• They are also known as “Chitwa” or “Wah” in native Nepali language.

• The red panda was first discovered in 1821, 48 years before the giant pandas were found in 1869.

• There are very few examples among mammalians that are endowed with such beautiful fur as that which adorns the body of the panda.

NATURE&WILDLIFE It may live alone, in pairs, or in family groups.

A female red panda makes a maternal den in a tree hollow, branch fork, tree root, bamboo thicket or a rock crevice, fashioned and lined with branches, leaves and moss. After a long gestation period of about 134 days, litters of one to four young ones are born, usually in the spring. Cubs are born covered in thick grey fur with their eyes and ears closed. The cubs will stay in the nest for about 90 days, remain close to their mother until the next mating season begins, and reach adulthood after 12 months.

WITH A DIET THAT RELIES MAINLY ON BAMBOO, THAT GROWS SPARSELY AND SPORADICALLY, AND DEFORESTATION FOR TIMBER, FUEL AND AGRICULTURAL LAND, THEIR HABITAT IS SHRINKING DAY BY DAY.

In terms of their ranging patterns, red pandas behave much like larger carnivores.

They tend to have overlapping home ranges in which the individuals rarely interact with each other. Red pandas mark their territories with urine, secretions from anal glands, and scents from glands on the pads of their feet. They have also been known to use communal latrine sites to stake out territory and share information with others.

In addition, red pandas often communicate using body language and different noises.

Red pandas are an endangered species, with an alarmingly small and declining population. With a diet that relies mainly on bamboo, that grows sparsely and

sporadically, and deforestation for timber, fuel and agricultural land, their habitat is shrinking day by day. Their limited food resource and slow rate of reproduction contribute to their attrition and cause a great deal of difficulty recovering from population declines. Then there is the illegal poaching and trading of its beautiful fur that drastically decreases its numbers. Its red fur is in high demand in China, where it is used to make hats and clothes. In Yunnan Province, hats made of red panda fur are still desired by newlyweds as a talisman for a happy marriage. It is already extinct in 4 of the 7 Chinese provinces in which it was previously found.

The exact size of Asia’s red panda population is currently unknown, but with their extinction looming ahead as an ominous and dismal possibility, zoos around the world have taken up the call to preserve the species. More than 80 zoos currently have red pandas, and almost all of them participate in a management program to ensure the survival of a viable zoo population.

North America runs the Red Panda Species Survival Program (SSP) which keeps a record of all red pandas on the continent, determines which animals should be mated, and develops longterm research and management strategies for the species. Other management programs have been created in Japan, Europe, Australia, and China

GOODFOOD

Singapore Capital of Food in Asia !

One of the best things about being in Singapore, famed for its harmonious blend of culture and cuisine, is undoubtedly its food.

When we talk about Singaporean food culture, it will be unfair not to mention Singaporeans’ passion for food and their sophisticated food palate.

Variety of Cuisine

Singapore is the food capital of Asia. There is a real culture of dining out among local people, and along with shopping, the pursuit of food and drink is the most popular form of recreation on the island. Although every Asian dish imaginable is available in Singapore, the only true local specialty is Nonya dish which brings together a fusion of Malay and Chinese flavors.

It may be a small country but the choice of foods available is always an eye opener for firsttimers to Singapore. Singaporean cuisine has continuously touched and delighted the hearts and taste buds of so many people in Singapore and around the world. For the newcomers, deciding where and what to eat can be intimidating, yet at the same time, an exciting and adventurous experience. Singaporean cuisine has evolved under the influence of China, India and Malay. Influence from such varied lands ensured that the Singaporeans learnt to cook an astonishing variety of dishes.

Dishes of such diversified taste never cease to fascinate tourists and they are never tired of experiencing the same.

Here is some information about the wide and exotic variety of Singaporean food:

Nonya

Nonya is a delicious blend of Chinese, Malay and other influences. Nonya recipes have been passed down from one generation to the next and its preparation is rather time-consuming. Nonya cooking is all about the combination of spices: using pungent roots like galangal, turmeric and ginger; aromatic leaves like pandan leaf, fragrant lime leaf and laksa leaf, with other ingredients like shrimp paste, chillies, candlenuts and shallots. In this variety, dessert is served with cakes instead of fruits.

Nasi Padang

Mouth-watering halal food is popular in the Muslim community.

Available as either Malay Muslim or Indian Muslim cuisine, both are ever ready to ignite the taste

buds. A cooking style that originated from Sumatra, Nasi Padang is a must-try for all food lovers. Indian Muslim or Mamak cuisine, the main dishes of which include mee goreng, rojak and mutton soup, are greatly enjoyed by Singaporeans.

Vegetarian Food

Vegetarian restaurants are seen to be mushrooming everywhere. These restaurants serve delicious vegetarian dishes that are influenced by Indian and Chinese Tao traditions. Though non-vegetarian food is more popular among both Singaporeans and tourists, inclination

towards vegetarian food is also on the rise.

and sesame seeds scintillate your taste buds!

4. Hainanese Chicken Rice: Steamed rice is cooked with chicken broth and served with smooth boiled chicken pieces and cucumber with chilli, ginger and dark soy sauce, to make this deliciously filling meal.

Sea Food

The all time favourite amongst visitors is undeniably Singaporean seafood.

Black pepper crabs, chilli crabs, drunken prawns and deep fried baby squids are a few juicy dishes not to be missed. Lobsters, chut chut (a cone shaped sea shell to be sucked) and raw cockles are also island delicacies.

Eating barbequed stingray served on banana leaf is definitely an experience to savor.

Must-try Foods

1. Chilli Crab: Cooked with hearty gravy of fresh red chillies, tomato sauce, eggs, spring onions and spices, it is considered to be the signature food of Singapore.

5. Laksa: Also known as Laksa Nemak or Nonya Laksa, it is rice noodles in a light, curried broth of coconut milk and spices topped with fish cakes, prawns and cockles.

2. Chilli Stingray: Served with chilli, sambal and honey, it is renowned as a hot-and-sweet exotic delicacy.

6. Char Kway Teow: Fried wheat and rice noodles in fish sauce, sweet fruit sauce with sprouts, eggs, fish cakes and fresh cockles is a lip-smacker!

3. Yu Sheng: Raw sliced fish in oil with garlic, spring onion sprouts, freshly squeezed lime

7. Satay: Small bite-sized pieces of meat - chicken, beef or mutton -

8. Roti Prata: It is a sort of fried croissant originating from South India served with fish, chicken or mutton curry.

9. Fish Head Curry: A huge fish head and vegetables simmered in curry and served with rice.

10. Kaya Toast: Kaya is a scrumptious local jam made from eggs, sugar and coconut milk.

11. Nasi Lemak: Nasi Lemak is a hearty meal comprising coconut-flavoured rice, a slice of omelette, anchovies, a slice of cucumber and some chilli paste. It is often uniquely packed in brown paper or banana leaf.

12. Hokkien Prawn Noodles: Vermicelli and yellow noodles fried with prawns, sliced cuttlefish and pork bits definitely make our must-try list!

1. Hawker’s Centre Yummiest meal at local fare

Places you must visit

steeped in a sweet-spicy marinade, strung along wooden skewers and barbequed over charcoal, it is served with a punchy peanut sauce for dipping, raw onion, cucumber and steamed rice cakes.

There isn’t a more popular way to enjoy this rich culture of flavors than at Singapore’s greatest culinary institution – the hawker centre! A collection of individual stalls selling food at very reasonable prices, in an open-air arrangement, the centre serves foods that are vast and variegated. This no-frills experience that’s common in Singapore and unique in Asia is probably the best way to sample some of Singapore’s yummiest perennial local favorites.

2. Food Courts Eateries at the corner of almost every shopping mall

Along with hawker centers, food courts are popular places to go to when dining out. You can find hawker food widely available here; a meal costs on an average, about $3 or more. The choice is also more cosmopolitan, with some food courts even offering Italian, Korean, Japanese and Greek cuisine all in the same place.

3. Restaurants And Hotels Sophisticated wining and dining

Besides Hawker Centres and Food Courts, you can taste the Singaporean flavor in high class, expensive, lavishly decorated restaurants and hotels. You can find these restaurants and hotels at every corner of the island. Wide array of food ranging from American Steak to Japanese Sushi and to local, popular dishes are available in these places.

So what are you waiting for? Next time you are there, dive into this food paradise and immerse yourself in food heaven. When you go back home carry the divine tastes on your tongue and let your taste palate get expanded with the best of Singapore cuisine.

Enjoy your Singapore food discovery!

AROUNDTHEWORLD

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up in these had slowly been picking The tourism economy them over led pp cri idents that had inc ed eat rep er aft s ion reg li’s Kuta Beach attack on tourists at Ba ist ror ter e Th rs. yea the cs of the year 2002. The epidemi had taken 202 lives in the se), which sea Di ory rat vere Acute Respi (Se RS SA d an flu an avi le in 2003, also ee or four hundred peop thr of es liv the ed im cla ture sucker tourist industry. Then na the on w blo avy he a alt de nically, 2004 the tsunami in 2004. Iro th wi rd ha m the d he nc pu region that -breaking success for a ord rec of r yea a en be d ha nned for some time. foreign travelers had shu

The best way that a help build concerned person could al g and keeping the region the place was by visitin local population back in economies moving, the tly boosting the tourism employment consequen astrophe would be if the industry. The second cat bookings. Tourism, an tourists cancelled their can also be a force for engine for development, income to a region that reconstr uction, bringing this disaster for years to will be recovering from come. ch of Patong Tourism nami that destroyed mu tsu the er aft s nth mo y Three the areas hit. economically. But slowl the economy of most of uket was still devastated of Ph , e on ach In Be ckb l. ba ne the tun d g the me din of for son, ad pear at the end he struck during peak sea light was beginning to ap of the ) Moreover, the catastrop nd isla ai Th et generated only 10% lar pu , po 05 ce, Phuket (a t quarter of 20 Phuk firs rism the tou ’s nd d isla ha the ts salt to injury. For instan touris . Most of r because the number of m revenue it saw in 2004 ris of tou lf ha in , s ng mi na bri et tsu called 2004 a golden yea ter the 2005 Phuk m the previous year. Af ry has agreed that if in ust ind r. yea ny od ma go a se increased 23 percent fro nt becau 05 will have been in tourism was 50 perce what it did last year, 20 in as however, the drop off ere wh y, ged tra the shocked by e out of the tourists were scared and Something good that cam compared to other ged ma da ally nim mi s t the places reality; Phuket wa ne o disaster however was tha b k c a ained in places. which had previously rem ed the b of m r o f got the ces pla m se t the s the shadow of mos Touri f o y limelight. the o m int o me This remarkable plunge n e o portunity to co h c op t e , r e e ion h reg ov t of Gulf of of t in tourism in the One good example is tha it. More h s g a had long been et n e uk i r Ph has been accredited to r a u d e ailand. Though Th h k t c u r the ners, due to misconception of phe st the first choice for foreig had not been catastro on, addich people as they watched wh lf of Thailand Gu the er ast dis s ht the ug stination the media and tho k sea a usly became a suitable de e vio ob p mi na tsu . of by a y ed are ect r aff to cater the inju Aceh (the worst hit o t d was in a better position t an l to h itc a n sw s tha uld re co y mo the ing Indonesia, where s needs of the tourists.

130,000 were killed) wa cals sed World the same as Phuket. Lo to a report of London-ba s from across the globe list ing rna ord jou acc 0 ly, 10 ng n sti tha ere re Int seem to bounce had to invite mo cost more than 100 uncil, tourism and travel It Co a. l are ave Tr the t d ou an ab sm th” uri To er str uck. For to report “the tru paid off as it received higher than before disast el ally lev a ntu to eve d gy an ate ter str fas the ck ba rs gone by, million bhat, but ade disasters of the yea the first three months of n-m g ma rin d du an ts al ris tur tou na n the llio all more than 1.1 mi er major step und 4-5 million). Anoth travelers seem more the of the year (annual being aro date the status up tly en qu fre to s wa taken by the locals affected areas being carried out in the development activities , media and ndence to travel agencies either through correspo ptical about less tourists were still ske their websites, neverthe the security of the place.

AROUNDTHEWORLD determined than ever to leave home. The number of leisure travelers visiting tourist destina tions hit by trouble has in some cases shown significant increase to its prior standing.

A lot to this trend can be accoun ted to the fact that travelers are becoming more knowledge able about what is happening around the world and geography as a whole due to easy access of the information media larg ely owing to the internet and abundant news age ncies. They were well aware that a tsunami is an event unlikely to have another occurrence.

Usnaya Sahib of Nias, done sia was one of the many victims of TsIn un am i an story of terror, loss, and apprec d here is her iating simple gifts in life…

s s e n t i w e ey

Visits were also on the upswin g to post-tsunami Thailand, where the giant wav es killed 5,400 and left more than 5,000 missing. Alt hough the tsunami killed more than 500 Swedes on the Thai resort island of Phuket, the largest number of any foreign nationality to die, Swedes are flocking to the isla nd in larger numbers than last year, according to My Travel Swe den, a Stockholm-based group that sends 600,000 tourists ove rseas annually and claims a 28 percent market share for Sweden .

“I was watching TV with Muklihun, my husband, when suddenly the whole house started to sha ke. I rushed towards the children, and tried to get out of the house, but the door was jammed. So all we could do was sit and pray to Allah. Then the shaking got worse and pieces of the roof started to fall on top of us. Then suddenly one of the walls of the house fell, and we could get out. We were lucky tha t our house is built of wood.

Outside, we could see the land moving, and the street was By the time it was July, 2005 alm ope ning ost all of the islands of below our feet. So we had to run Phuket were restored back to , we nor malcy or went out of the town, up tow ard made even better, hardly s h t the hills. “The wave, the wave V wi T g showing any scar of the is n i h c at coming,” is all I could hear, so destructive catastrophe; we d, when ran I was w n a b s u on, carrying the children. We h y m thanks to the incredible , e n s u u stayed in the mountain for two Muklih hole ho and astoundingly fast-paced w e h t y nig l hts, with little food and water. clean up campaigns at the ushed r sudden I . e k The n on Friday we decided to com a beaches and underwater, and e to sh d d n e t a r , dow a n n t to pray in the mosque. We e s r d l i installation of tsunami-alarm h c the found Oxfam and YEU here to system in the beaches by the help house, us. e towards h t f o They gave us water and some t u o t local authorities and people of e g eggs. We were very grateful. tried to s the region. On the other hand, a w r o o d there were other places that wer We went back to our house, just but the e looking at our home . d e more severely affected like Kh m made me cry. It is completely m a ao j ruin ed, with the smell Lak and Phi Phi Island where of the dead all round it. We lear it ned that our neighbors took about a year for restoration were killed. My husband’s bec a (bicycle taxi) was caught by as a complete redevelopment was the wall, and broken beyond rep required. But all of these airs. He earned 20,000 rupiah places had again one thing in com (ab out $2) a day with it. We had bor mon – they look even more rowed the money to buy it, mesmerizing and enchanting tod and now we must pay that mo ay! ney back. I don’t know how we will manage.

I have to accept what has hap pened. I try to smile and laugh in all this pain. And I can smile ton ight because my family will eat rice, thanks to Oxfam” --Usna ya Sahib

EVENTS&TIPS

May 25

Blues with Nekhvam When: 7pm onward Where: Bottles n Chimney Description groove in the smoothness of blues every Monday

May 17

Waiting for Godot When: 7:15pm Where: Hotel Vajra Description: a play by Samual Beckett from 8th to 24th May

May 18

Six Monologues in Stage When: 5:30pm onward Where: Gurukul Description: plays performed by the gurukul members till 30th may

May 19

On the Other side When: Where: Kathmandu Photo gallery Description: a photographic exhibition by Bruce Gundersen

May 21

Thursday with peanuts When: 7 pm onwards Where: Bottle n chimney, Thamel Description: quite possibly the only place in kathmandu where littering is actually encouraged

Every Tuesday humble bee When: 7:30pm onwards Where: Moksh Description: live music play by humble bee

May 27 May 22

Some like it hot When: May 22, 2009 Where: fusion the bar at Dwarika’s hotel Description: With live band Dinesh Rai and the sound minds includes BBQ dinner, contact: 4468589

Salsa evening When: 8 pm Where: Club Platinum Description: salsa night with Jimy and Masha

May 29

May 20

Jatra ladies Night When: every wednesday Where: Jatra Description One free cocktail to all the ladies with mesmerizing unplugged sufi, nepali, and English music by Dharmendra shewan

May 26

May 23

Saga Dawa Festival When: Where: at Tarboche Description: Celebration for Sakyamuni’s enlightenmen at Mount Kailash

Lincoln school alumni party When: 7pm onward Where: Hotel Vajra Description : Live concert by rock band robin and new revolution, a buffet, a raffle drawing with fabulous prizes

June 2

Live music @g’s terrence When: Every evening Where: G’s Terrence, thamel Description move with the moving music, live performance by strings bank

June 6

The geography of oneself When: 6:30 – 9:00pm Where: Kathmandu Photo gallery Description: a photo exhibition by Nathalie Darbellay

June 13

Live Sensation When: 9pm Where: Rox bar, Hyatt Regency Description: Groove with Aprilrush band live at