July 2009
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AN A N UNP NPRE NPR REC CEED DEENT NTEED D CY YC CLLIIN NG G VEEN NTTU NT UR REE, E, TTO O AN UN UNM MA AR ARK RK KEED D RO OU UTE TE MU M UK KTTINAT IIN NAT ATH ttoo LO O--MA MAN NTTH HA AN NG G
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Contents
18 Travelogue
64
70 38 Personality Interview
54 Adventure Intro
Marriage in Maldives
An Hour with T.R. Manandhar
Opening the Skies above Everest
This is a story of a couple in their quest to achieve their dream marriage in the beach of Maldives surrounded by heavenly water. Join them as they take this magical journey together.
All that you wanted to know about the working of the only international airport in Nepal from its General Manager including details about the concept of airspace and future plans of utilizing Nepal’s airspace for international civil aviation.
An adventure sport that beats all other adventures. Experience firsthand the leap from 29,500 ft. and freefall past Mount Everest on to the highest drop zone in the world at Shyangboche, 12,350ft!
24 Cover Story Lo-Manthang Express This travelogue unfolds the spirited adventure of three friends cycling on terrain, where any man would think twice about walking.
34 Global Treasures Crater Lake National Park Overpowering yet sublimely beautiful, Crater Lake National Park has been recommended as a wilderness preserve. Even in a region of volcanic wonders, this lake can only be described in superlatives.
42 Destination Spotlight
60 Hotels & Casinos
Exploring the sacred Tsum Valley
The Fulbari Resort & Spa
Explore and experience the mystical settlement of this ancient city, which has stood victorious even after the test of time.
Re-imagining architectural wonders of Nepal’s golden age, The Fulbari Resort & Spa stands as a manifestation of the beauty espoused by the ancient Malla Kings of Kathmandu Valley
48 People & Culture Unfolding the mysteries of Tibet
Discover the lifestyle of Tibetan people and the real Tibet famous all over the world as the destination for people in search of their spirituality and true peace of mind
64 Nature and Wildlife Vultures, soaring high in the blue Vultures with their characteristic bald head and spooky bent beak may look brutish and aggressive, but these birds are of immense value in the ecological balance.
July 2009
www.traveltimes-mag.com
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18 LO-M LO -MA AN NT TH HAN ANG EX E XPR PRE ES SS AN U AN UNPRECED UNPREC UN UNPRE NPR NPRE NPRECED NPRECE NPREC PRECE P PRECED REECED EC CEED CE DEENTED ENTE EN NTTED NTED N TED C TE CYC CYCLI CYCL CY YC CLLLIING NG V VENT VENTURE VENTURE, VENTUR VEN ENTURE EENTUR NTTU NTURE TUR UR U RE, TTO OA AN N UN UNMAR U UNMA UNM NMAR NMA NM N M MA ARK KEED KED ED R ROUTE ROU RO ROUT OU UTE UT TTEE MUKTINATH MUKTINAT MUKTIN M UKTINATH UK UKTIN U UKTINA KTINAT KT KTIN K TI TIN TTINA TINATH IIN INATH NA NATH N NAT ATH A TH to TH to LO LLO-MANTH LO-MANT LO-MANTHA LO-M LO-MAN O-MANT OO O-MAN -MANT --M M MANTH MAN MANTHA ANT ANTHA A NTHA N TTHA HANG AN NG G
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Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal CDO Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com
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EDITORIAL TEAM Chairman DEEPAK BHATTA Managing Director / Editor A. R. TANDUKAR Associate Editor SHAMBHU TANDUKAR Copy Editor UTSAV SHAKYA Inhouse Writer PRITA MALLA Creative Head MAHESH TANDUKAR Graphics Designer MANOJ MANANDHAR Director Sales & Marketing TILAK KHATRI Marketing Executive ANUMESH BAJRACHARYA Photographer SURESH MAHARJAN Manager - Subscription & Distribution SAJJAN BHANDARI Distribution Executive ARJUN THAPA Credit Executive ANU KC Accountant NEEMA GYAWALI
Start traveling....with Travel Times 70 Good Food Chinese Chomps Just the mention of Chinese food is enough to get anyone’s mouth watering. Scrumptious, unique, and varied Chinese cuisine has no doubt prevailed in the hearts of the people all over the world.
76 A Tale of Vagabond Brooke versus the World If you are planning or thinking of planning an around the world trip, here is what you should not miss. A young girl of just 25, already half way around the globe and still going strong on her venture.
82 Perfect Take-Aways Souvenir Shopping in Nepal The mere mention of the word shopping can surely put a smile on every person’s face, but souvenir shopping is a whole different ball game.
12 Travel News
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.
22 Market Guide
Gives you the sneak peak on what is new in the market
68 Recommended Restaurants 88 Yaka Bhujya
The Day Women Descend On the Streets
90 Event & Tips
Bored and don’t know what to do this monsoon? Why don’t you try out some of these hot and happening places in town?
To subscribe Travel Times, refer to page no. 89 or simply dial
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ADVISORS A. DAS GUPTA SUSHIL BHATTA UPENDRA HIRAWAT ABHISHEK ANAND DEEPAK JAIN PARTNERS CHINA SOUTHERN AIRLINES FOX TOURS AND TRAVELS GORKHA TRAVELS CRAFT GARDEN DAKSHINKALI HILL RESORT COLOR SEPARATION: CTP NEPAL PVT. LTD HATTIBAN, 5250466, 5250468 PRINTING: JAGADAMBA PRESS, HATTIBAN, 5250017 Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com or call Mr. Sajjan Bhandari at 98510 92748
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TRAVELNEWS
IMJA ACTION EVENT 2009
NATIONAL
NEPAL VISA FROM TIBET At a promotional campaign jointly held by the Consulate General of Nepal in Lhasa, Nepal Tourism Board, and China Tibet Tourism Bureau, an official from the Consulate General of Nepal promised 22 travel wholesalers that travel agencies in Tibet would be able to offer visa services to Chinese tourists who want to visit Nepal in the near future.
Initiatives for Development and Eco Action Support (IDEAS) organized ‘Imja Tsho Action Event 2009 - Beat the Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (GLOF) Action Run and Khumbu Festival’ on June 18. The Imja Tsho glacial lake in the Khumbu region has been identified as the most threatening and likely to burst its banks at any time. “If the glacier bursts its banks, it would unleash a catastrophic flood that will cause disaster along the downstream valleys affecting communities and the ecology of the mountains, hill regions and also the densely populated areas of the Gangetic plains to the south,” said Dawa Steven Sherpa of IDEAS. The Beat the GLOF Action Run was organized to showcase the effects of the phenomenon. Khumbu Festival was held in Khumjung village on June 19 with the support of World Wildlife Fund (Nepal ) and International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD).
According to Prachanda Man Shrestha, the director of Nepal Tourism Board, between 2006 and 2008, 500,000 tourists visited Nepal each year and 7 percent of them were from China. Nepal hopes the cooperation between the two regions would certainly be a success and the promotion will attract more people to visit the country via Tibet.
ASIA’S TRAVEL OPERATORS JOIN FORCES FOR A POWERFUL MARKETING ALLIANCE Asian Connections (AC), a powerful new marketing alliance of Asia’s best independent inbound travel operators, was launched on June 25, 2009 in Bangkok, Thailand. The marketing alliance sees the collaboration of eight travel partners covering 14 key destinations throughout Southeast Asia and South Asia. Explore Himalaya from Nepal is the connecting partner for Nepal and Tibet. AC offers a streamlined Asia-wide service for pro-
NEW AIRCRAFT, PILATUS PORTER OF YETI LANDED ON TIA
Yeti Airlines’ received its new Pilatus Porter aircraft. The airline said the aircraft, which is abbreviated as PC-6, was directly flown from the factory. Yeti Airlines is set to begin flight operations in Syangboche, Jiri, Langtang, Dhorpatan and Kalikot using its fleet of PC-6 aircrafts. Pilatus Porter aircraft has excellent STOL (Short Take Off and Landing)
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performance and will be used for passenger and material transportation, medical and emergency services, measurement and photo flights with spraying equipment for agricultural work and for fire fighting. The airline believes that the revival of flight operation services in remote areas will help contribute to local development and tourism promotion.
fessional group travel arrangements, with one point of contact for most destinations throughout the region. Travel planners can expect unbeatable value and top level of reliability and professionalism. AC will market spectacular travel opportunities throughout Asia for leisure and MICE groups, while building a robust buying network that will build new opportunities for its partners. AC covers the key Asian destinations, including Bali, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodia, China, Hong Kong, Laos, Macau, Malaysia, Nepal, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Vietnam.
LUKLA AIRPORT TO BE NAMED AFTER EVEREST PIONEERS According to the Tourism Minister, Prithvi Subba Gurung, there are plans to rename the airport that serves as the gateway to Mount Everest after Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary, who died recently. At a condolence ceremony for Hillary held in Kathmandu he said, “I will ask the government for approval to rename Lukla airport as the Hillary-Tenzing Airport”. Hillary and Norgay made history in May 1953 when they became the first to summit the world’s highest peak (8,848 meter). Hillary was instrumental in helping establish Nepal as a trekking destination. Set up with help from Hillary’s Himalayan Trust in 1964, Lukla airport, 140 km northeast of Kathmandu, is one of the busiest in the country during the trekking and mountaineering seasons.
TRAVELNEWS
NATIONAL
VISITOR ARRIVALS UP IN JUNE 2009
780 SUMMITEERS ATOP VARIOUS SUMMITS THIS SEASON
The figures released by Immigration Office, Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) reveal that visitor arrivals in the month of June 2009, compared to the same month last year, have increased by 6%.
Two climbers, after more than three decades, succeeded in reaching the summit of Mt Cho Oyu this season. The government had permitted the duo to scale the mountain without permit fee as a part of promoting Nepal Tourism Year 2011 campaign.
In June this year, arrivals from Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka have witnessed positive growth of 16%, 4%, and 7% respectively. The Indian market, considered as a major market for Nepal, showed a decline of 6%. Similarly, Chinese arrivals have increased by 17% along with Thailand (37%), Malaysia (3%), South Korea (55%) and Singapore (8%). The other Asian market to decline in this month was Japan (4%). The Asian segment has registered a positive growth of 18% altogether. By far the most encouraging results came from European markets, having registered an overall positive growth of 25%. Arrivals from UK have maintained the increasing trend with a growth of 15%. Nepal’s major generating markets in West Europe: Germany, the Netherlands, Italy and Norway all have posted significant increases of 27%, 30%, 34% and 17% respectively. However, France recorded 2% decrease in the arrivals. Tourist arrivals from Australia, New Zealand, Canada and United States of America have also registered positive growth of 27%, 5%, 11% and 21% respectively. A total of 28,210 foreign tourists departed from TIA in June 2009. The number of Nepalese arrivals stood at 40,337 while 45,541 Nepalese departed from TIA in June 2009.
According to the mountaineering division of Ministry of Culture and Civil Aviation, seven hundred eighty mountaineers from 98 different expeditions reached the summit of different peaks in the country. A total of 284 climbers from 29 different expeditions reached the highest peak in the planet. However, eight climbers died while trying different peaks this season.
MUSEUM CAN NOW BE ACCESSED ONLINE The only biodiversity museum in the country, Natural History Museum launched its website - www.nhmnepal.org after 34 yrs of its establishment. The site has detailed information on thousands of specie of flora and fauna housed at the museum which will help promote biodiversity conservation in the country.
AIRLINES TO PUBLISH AIR FARE IN NEPALESE CURRENCY According to the new Foreign Exchange Policy, Nepal Rastra Bank (NRB), has introduced a new provision, which allows domestic travel agencies to make use of Nepali currency while settling payments related to purchase of international air tickets from foreign airline companies. International airlines and their agents providing service in Nepal should quote air fares in local currency in the online GDS/
ticketing system and payments made in Nepali currency should also be accepted. Similarly the new policy has also addressed the demand of Airlines to pay their expenses to Tribhuvan International Airport, Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal, Nepal Oil Corporation, Ground Handling Agent, Catering Company/Agent for Landing, Parking, Navigation Housing, Ground Handling, Catering and Flooring in NPR. The initiative for this change was taken by Nepal Association of Tour and Travel Agents (NATTA) along with NRB, TIA, CAAN, NOC and BARN.
4TH NATIONAL OPEN CLIMBING COMPETITION Pasang Lhamu Mountaineering Foundation (PLMF) in association with TAAN, NTB & NMA is organizing the 4th National Open Climbing Competition - 2009, on July 24 and 25. The competition is going to be held at Pasang Lhamu Sports Climbing center, PLMF Building Premises, Dhumbarahi, Kathmandu.
To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com
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TRAVELNEWS
THAI AIR-ASIA KEEPS ON GROWING
While other airlines have either maintained or downsized flights in their industry’s severe downturn, Thai AirAsia continues to move ahead with expansion in its network. The low-cost carrier is on course to take delivery of new Airbus A320 aircrafts, enabling it to add six international destinations in Taiwan, China and India between September and early next year. The airline is due to start flying from Bangkok to Taipei, before adding services to Mumbai and New Delhi around December along with Kunming, Chengdu and Guangzhou. A second daily flight on the Bangkok-Hong Kong route is also expected to be introduced. They currently hold a fleet of 16 jets - nine A320s and seven Boeing 737-300s in which additional two new A320s will be introduced.
RECORD NUMBER OF VISITORS ON SKYSCANNER SITE
Skyscanner, a travel search site reports that Monday 6th July was its busiest day ever. Not only was traffic at a record high, but the site experienced a massive week-on-week spike. Spanish sunspots of Malaga, Alicante and Palma, were among the top destinations searched. Last month Skyscanner reported a surge in late bookings – another factor that may be contributing to the increase in traffic on the site: “We’ve seen a real difference in booking patterns this year,” said Skyscanner director and co-founder Barry
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INTERNATIONAL
KYRGYZSTAN GETS ITS FIRST UNESCO LISTING Kyrgyzstan for the first time has won UNESCO World Heritage status for a site. The Central Asia nation’s bid for recognition of the Sulamain-Too Sacred Mountain was approved by UNESCO during the World Heritage Committee’s 33rd annual meeting. The mountain stands over the Fergana Valley, close to the city of Osh, on the ancient Silk Road.
MEDICAL TOURISM TO SEE GLOBAL GROWTH
The global medical travel industry, estimated to be worth US$50 billion, is expected to see annual growth rates of 15-20%, and double in size to US$100 billion by 2012. More than half of this growth will be led by India, Singapore, Thailand and South Korea because of their solid infrastructure and strong government support.
It has five peaks containing several places of worship, and caves with petroglyphs. Burkina Faso also joins Kyrgyzstan on the UNESCO for the first time for the Loropeni ruins – stone walls of an ancient fortress. The Committee also placed China’s Mount Wutai, South Korea’s Royal Tombs and Iran’s Shushtar Historical Hydraulic System on the World Heritage List. The German city of Dresden however, has had its UNESCO status revoked following the construction of a four-lane motorway bridge in the city centre.
VODKA MUSEUM INVITES TO A “NEW” RUSSIAN VILLAGE Verkhnie Mandrogi, a small village near to St. Petersburg has become a popular tourist attraction. The village which was completely destroyed in World War II is rebuilt with hotels decorated in traditional Russian style. Visitors may observe potters, weavers, carvers and painters at work and also buy souvenirs. Visitors can also go fishing or hunting, practice archery or ride a horse. There is a mini-zoo, moose farm and a bread museum. However the vodka museum with 2700 different kinds of Russian vodka is the main attraction here. They have bottles in all possible shapes of guns, swords, crowns, busts and even submarines.
These countries are expected to be the biggest gainers as patients from the West seek cheaper alternatives abroad. But the industry is getting more competitive, with more countries in the region - such as Japan, Indonesia and Malaysia - looking to tap into the sector. According to experts the countries which will come out ahead will be those who can integrate healthcare and travel aspects into an attractive package.
Smith. “Financial uncertainty has made people more cautious about booking a long time in advance. But Scottish schools have already broken up for the summer holidays, and schools in England and Wales will break up in a couple of weeks so now the hunt is on for last minute bargains.”
TRAVELNEWS
HYATT CHANGES ITS NAME TO HYATT HOTELS CORP.
INTERNATIONAL
CHINA, KOREA & VIETNAM OFFER DARK TOURISM was founded in early 1951 by U.N. troops and held some 170,000 Chinese and North Korean prisoners during the Korean War. To preserve the memory of the Korean War, the camp was reconstructed and presently serves as commemoration of the conflict. There are exhibition halls with pictures and recordings that give visitors an idea about this part of the Korean history.
Global Hyatt Corp. has changed its name to Hyatt Hotels Corp. Hyatt Hotels own, operate, manage and franchise hotels, resorts and residential and vacation ownership properties under the brand names Hyatt, Park Hyatt, Andaz, Grand Hyatt, Hyatt Regency, Hyatt Place, Hyatt Summerfield Suites and Hyatt Vacation Club. “The name Hyatt Hotels Corporation leads with our brand and captures the company’s core business,” says President and CEO Mark Hoplamazian. “Operating in various countries around the world for decades has given Hyatt a global perspective as well as an understanding that making a difference in people’s lives through authentic hospitality is an inherently local–rather than global–mission. Each of our hotels is rooted in and reflective of its market and community, which enables the members of the Hyatt family to provide the type of hospitality and experience our guests have come to expect.” Guests, employees or operations at the company’s more than 380 hotels and residential and vacation ownership properties around the world will not be affected by this change.
Another war related tourism attraction is in the former Chinese capital, Nanjing. Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall was built in 1985 to commemorate the infamous Nanjing Massacre in which Japanese occupants raped and killed thousands of unarmed Chinese in 1937. It occupies an area of approximately 28,000 square meters offering outdoor exhibits, sheltered skeletal remains of victims as well as historical documents.
Sites of ancient battles or the Nazi concentration camps are nowadays sought-after tourism attractions. War tourism or dark tourism is gaining popularity even in Asia. Many tourists visit the former POW camp on the Geoje Island, Korea. The camp
Another important war site is War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam which portrays war crimes of American imperialism and the puppet government in 1975. It displays period military equipment information on various atrocities like the My Lai massacre. Human fetuses deformed by the exposure to the infamous Agent Orange are among the popular exhibits.
IHG LAUNCHES IN DUBAI FESTIVAL CITY
‘LONGEST CRUISE’ SETS SAIL FROM AUSTRALIA
Inter-Continental Hotels Group (IHG) will open another key property in Dubai this July; the Inter-Continental Residence Suites Dubai Festival City. The 212-unit property will be IHG’s first specialized extended stay property in the UAE, offering 1/2/3 bedroom suites, as well as a Royal Suite penthouse with stunning creek views and its own spa treatment room. All rooms are kitted out with facilities such as high-speed broadband internet, 37” plasma screen TVs and fully-equipped kitchens.
Almost 2,000 Australians left winter behind them, as they sailed from Sydney on the longest cruise ever undertaken from the country – a 104-night, around the world voyage on Dawn Princess. 911 passengers onboard will complete the full world cruise; while a further 2,800 passengers will join in a range of sectors as the ship visits 42 different ports.
TAAI HEADS TO DUBAI The 58th convention of the Travel Agents Association of India (TAAI) will be held in Dubai from 29 September to 01 October 2009. The decision was made partly due to the enthusiasm of Dubai Tourism, whose representative office in India, headed by Carl Vaz, took an active interest in the event. This will be the second consecutive year the TAAI convention is being held outside India, following London’s hosting of the event in 2008.
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TRAVELOGUE
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R R I A G E IN T HE
M A L D I V E S After planning the perfect wedding day for all her life, one woman goes on the cruise of a lifetime which changes all her ideas.
By Donatella Moica
Macana Maldives Tour operator - Via Pertini, 754 Pistoia
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She had examined specialized magazines and internet websites for such a long time that her boyfriend, Massimiliano, was starting to believe this marriage would not be possible! For every woman her marriage is a dream which she plans in the smallest details since her childhood. The dream is enriched throughout the years, her plans “subject to no compromise”. This romantic vision of the perfect day belongs to all newly-wed couples, even the most cynical ones. Sometimes however, people’s expectations run head first into practicality forcing them to modify plans. When my friend Liana came to me to talk about the perfect marriage, I realized that we shared the same ideas. For entire months she had been thinking about how and where she should celebrate her marriage. She had examined specialized magazines and internet websites for such a long time that her boyfriend, Massimiliano, was starting to believe this marriage would not be possible! When he was almost sure that they would never marry, they decided to go on a cruise on board a splendid boat right when I myself was cruising on the same boat.
THE REASONS FOR THE CHOICE The good reception we were given on the boat, the pleasure of a careful and accurate hospitality and the breathtaking landscapes that changed every morning recharged the couple’s romantic minds. The calm blue sea disclosed innumerable gems that shone with the glints of the rainbow. The sky would take on a rosy color and then an orange hue that would later fade away into an intense unreal light blue. It was dawn! Only later small light and solitary clouds floated on high over the sea. Then the sun would shine tirelessly for 12 hours.
GETTING MARRIED ON A CRUISE A few months later, Liana asked me if it would be possible to get married on board one of our splendid boats. Certainly, but careful because the marriage will have no legal value! I simply answered. It will have value for us! she replied. Thus my friends planned a new cruise, this time to get married on! At the airport, they are a little exhausted by the flight and by the time zone. The heat and the dampness cannot be escaped, but as soon as we get onto the boat we feel better immediately. Princess Haleema opens its door to the betrothed very gladly! Even other guests on board find the event pleasant, amusing and very romantic. They have been secretly informed about how the ceremony will develop, but in a respectable Masonic nucleus, nothing leaks out.
On the wedding day the kitchen staff is in a stir. Two chefs prepare the wedding cake, three levels of delight, covered with clotted cream and flowers. The sailors briskly work on sand chosen for the ceremony. They prepare the gazebo under which our betrothed will exchange their promise of love. Long woven palm branches, decorated with a candid organza cloth‌ and heavenly blue waters all as far as the eyes can see! The sky takes a lilac tone when the betrothed get to the beach. Both of them look beautiful and super-excited. Abdullah, the elegant captain with the traditional pareu, performs the ceremony in the Maldivian language (translated in Italian by the person responsible for the boat!). The sun slowly sets to give space to the moon, even more spectacular and snow-white tonight. After the promises are exchanged, the rice throwing ceremony puts all in a joyous mood, typical of our tradition even if we are in the Maldives. This is followed by a customary
The stars somehow shine longer and more vividly as if to convey their best wishes for a long and happy life together. toast, a bit of emotion and then it is time to go back to the boat for the real party! The bride and the bridegroom romantically settle down for a specially prepared candlelit dinner for two on the upper deck. The stars somehow shine longer and more vividly as if to convey their best wishes for a long and happy life together. The sea waves tune up a melody and the wind blows words of love...
THE GIFT OF THE SEA To crown the feast the following morning, an unbelievable carousel of manta rays accompany us all along the dive. A group of about ten giant manta rays decide to give us a ballet worthy of the Opera de Paris. Like light dancers, they twirl in the water almost caressing us with their wings. We leave them unwillingly after 75 minutes, only because we are short of air in our tanks. It’s time to leave! A bit of emotion, some witty remarks and the usual promise to come back soon... another romance, another magical beginning to another life.
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MARKETGUIDE
A
SNEAK PEAK ON
WHAT’S NEW IN THE
MARKET
IMS TELE TRADE P. LTD. INTRODUCES SAMSUNG TOUCH MOBILE Samsung Star S5233 is Full Touch screen mobile phone which comes with the latest multimedia features in a slim and compact body. Adopting a 3.0-inch WQVGA full-touch screen and Samsung’s TouchWiz User Interface, the phone enables its users to enjoy their mobile easily and intuitively. Samsung Star supports 50 MB internal memory capacity with an external memory which can be expanded up to 8GB. This means you don’t have to delete songs and pictures from your phone. Available at IMS Tele Trade, Durbarmarg Contact: 4425496
ESSENTIAL TOOL FOR SPORTS AND REPORTAGE PHOTOGRAPHERS Canon EOS-1D Mark II is the successor to the Canon EOS-1D. This new generation of digital SLR almost doubles the resolution with its eight megapixel CMOS sensor and also doubles the size of the continuous shooting buffer. Despite the advertised 8.5 fps the EOS-1D Mark II actually shoots at a maximum of 8.3 fps (the same as the EOS-1D). The EOS-1D Mark II is also Canon’s answer to Nikon’s fast shooting D2H. Technical Details • Optical Sensor Resolution: 8.2 MP • Optical Sensor Technology: CMOS • Optical Sensor Size: 19.1 x 28.7mm • Included Flash Type: None • Display Size: 2 inches • Light Sensitivity: ISO 100, ISO 360, ISO 800, ISO 400, ISO 200, ISO 320, ISO 640, ISO 500, ISO 250, ISO 50, ISO 1600, ISO 480, ISO 3200 • Image Types: JPEG, RAW • Viewfinder Type: Optical • Width: 6.1 inches • Depth: 3.1 inches • Height: 6.2 inches • Weight: 2.6 pounds Available at Bazan International, Shop No: A42-45, Ground Floor, UWTC, Tripureshwor Contact: 4117129
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NO. 1 PERFORMANCE BIKE IN UK AND FRANCE NOW AVAILABLE IN NEPAL Combi Disc is for the riders looking for both comfort and performance. With its dual suspension and robust characteristic, it is the best bike for Nepali terrain. Main Features: Frame: Meta 4 2007 Shock: Rock Shox Bar 2.1 Fork: Custom White Rock Shox Tora SL lockout 80mm (XS)/100mm Brakes: Avid Juicy 3 160/160 Available at EPIC Mountain Bike Adventure Contact: 5555021
PUMA BRAND NOW IN NEPAL A TRENDY JACKET TO BEAT THE MONSOON Lowe Alpine - Manufacturer of outdoor equipments including packs and apparel for a wide range of activities, has introduced a Venture GTX Jacket, perfect at keeping the unexpected showers and winds at bay. The fabric is Gore PacLite, the seams are taped and the zips have substantial storm guards. The hood, cuffs and hem are adjustable; the pockets are high set with a classic and casual look. Lightweight and easy to pack, this trail jacket is designed especially for hiking and traveling enthusiast.
Sherpa Mall at Dubarmarg has opened “The Puma Store” as an authorized dealer of the International Puma Brand in Nepal. Ladies and Gents wear along with Sports shoes, Bags and other Puma Brand can be accessed in store, with an opening discount of 15% in every item for 30 days. In future the puma store is going to open new outlets in different location of all over Nepal.
Features: -Two-way front zipper with double storm flap -2 zippered side pockets -Velcro adjustable cuffs -Fold-away hood with welded peak and volume adjustment -Single pull draw-cord at the hem Available at United Brand, Tridevimarg, Thamel Contact: 4416116
TOUGH ON THE JOB, NOT THE HANDS -LEATHERMAN BLAST Loaded with all the customer favorites, Blast offers the most requested tools - with a new perspective. Longer blades make it easier to slice, saw, file, turn a screw and much more. Zytel handle inserts offer a comfortable and reliable grip. Built to take on an even heavier load, the Blast’s hands can withstand up to 175 pounds of pressure. With the blast, even small hands can get themselves around the biggest jobs comfortably. Features:
A NEW HANGOUT IN TOWN If exquisite food is what you are searching for, look no further than Copa Cabana. Copa Cabana, literally meaning the place where the sun never goes down reflects this place’s laidback optimistic and cheerful ambience. The place is warm and cozy, yet has the space for both indoor and outdoor seating arrangements for optimum appreciation of its beauty. Emanating a cool atmosphere and with its mouthwatering good food, Copa Cabana is perfect for taking in the view of the bustling city life and the hazy traffic. Open: 10am to10pm, Seven days a week Kupondole, Lalitpur Contact: 9841333628
420HC Clip Point Knife Regular Pliers Hard-wire Cutters Small Screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver Scissors Saw Can Opener 8 in | 19 cm
Needle-nose Pliers Wire Cutters Wire Stripper Large Screwdriver Small Bit Driver Wood/Metal File Bottle Opener
Available at Novelties International 101, Bishalbazar Contact: 4228063/4220524
To feature your product send us the details at marketguide@traveltimes-mag.com TIMES JULY 2009 25
LO-MANTHANG EXPRESS AN UNPRECEDENTED CYCLING VENTURE, ON AN UNMARKED ROUTE
MUKTINATH to LO-MANTHANG Mustang is located in the north-east of Nepal, bordering China (Tibet) on the Central Asian plateau between the Nepalese provinces of Dolpo and Manang. It is roughly 80 km long (northsouth) and 45 km at its widest, and is at an elevation of over 2500 m
China Mustang
Myagdi Baglung Parbat
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David Yonzan, one of the daredevils of the adventure, unfolds his cycling experience on terrain where one hardly dares to walk. Written by: David Yonzan Photos by: Samir Jung Thapa & Tenzing Nodup
Lo Manthang! I had never heard the name before and my imagination was running wild trying to put a picture to the place. So I did what any normal person would do in such a situation. I googled ‘Lo Manthang’ and was instantly flooded with information! Lo Manthang – a walled city, is the capital of Mustang, an ancient Himalayan kingdom at an elevation of nearly 3800 meters. It lies in the northern central part of Nepal and at the top of the Kali Gandaki River. The entire region is famous for its inaccessible caves, chortens, monasteries and arid desert-like conditions. The unbelievable part was that Samir, Tenzing (the other two that make up the
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Cycling Route Rivers
Lo-Manthang
Tsarang
Zaite
Chele
Muktinath Kagbeni
trio) and I had decided to cycle up to LoManthang and back. Our trip to Lo Manthang coincided with the beginning of the Ten–Chi festival and we were eager to witness it. To give you a heads up on the three of us, Samir is a photographer with quite a bit of trekking experience, Tenzing, a passionate cyclist and as for me, I am just a person who loves adventure and extreme sports. What was common, however, was that none of us had ever cycled on such terrain. The date was set, bags were packed, medicinal supplies were bought and our mountain bikes were fitted for the rough journey ahead and most important of all, we readied ourselves mentally for the
strenuous journey. Yeti Travels, Nepal’s prestigious Destination Management Company had sponsored the logistics throughout the trip and had also provided a Nissan Patrol 4X4 to take us and our gear up to Muktinath from where we would start cycling.
along the Kali Gandaki river, the route: Beni- GaleshworTatopani- Ghasa- Jomsom. The raw power of the 4X4 was much appreciated as it managed the off road track with ease. The ride was as exciting as it could get, offering us views of rushing rivers and stiff mountains be-
We had settled on a warm - up cycle ride down from Muktinath to Kagbeni in the evening. The down-hill ride was exhilarating, as we whizzed past chortens silent bystanders to our crazy ideas. Kagbeni in its heydays was home to the ancient salt trade route between Nepal, India and
Samir is a photographer with quite a bit of trekking experience, Tenzing, a passionate cyclist and as for me, I am just a person who loves adventure and extreme sports. What was common, however, was that none of us had ever cycled on such terrain. So on a Thursday morning, the team set off from Kathmandu towards Pokhara, and then drove up to Beni where we settled for the night. The next day’s journey on our Nissan 4X4 took us
sides the odd old wooden bridge and the makeshift roads with rivulets cutting through. We neared Jomson by two and proceeded on to Muktinath (3750), a religious shrine for Hindus.
Tibet. The same river forms a distinctive travel corridor which had been used for thousands of years, connecting the Tibetan people up north with India. An hour later we were drinking pipTIMES JULY 2009 27
The path along the hill was very rough; one miss and we would fall down into the river. We would realise later, that much of the trail to Lo Manthang would be made up of similar terrain!
ing hot coffee and exchanging stories with fellow travellers at our hotel in Kagbeni. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast of Tibetan bread and eggs, we were raring to hit the road. Our luggage was carried by our porters while we managed the mountain bikes ourselves. An hour into the ride, we obtained a fairly good idea of what we had got ourselves into. We had opted for the route that took us up the steep hill instead of the easier route along the river banks. The path along the hill was rough; one miss and we would fall down into the river. We would realise later, much of the trail to Lo Manthang had similar terrain! As we climbed the steep hill, cycles carried on our backs, I said a silent prayer for all of us. We stopped for lunch
at Chuksang where we caught up with our porters, who had arranged some delicious local food for us. Our next stop was Chele. By now, we had crossed the Kali Gandaki river, picking up fossils on the way and been overtaken by super strong Tibetan horses carrying loads as we cycled on trails that offered us amazing views of the barren hills and the snow-capped Nilgiri mountain range. We cycled down bizarre rock formations in varying colours with caves where people had dwelled hundreds of years ago. These mountains would be a steady companion for the next few days. By evening we reached Chele, a small town on a hill above the Kali Gandaki River. Chele appeared like an oasis in a desert with whitewashed houses. We enjoyed our dinner in the kitchen of a local family. I had expected 1
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a simple meal, but was surprised by the generous helpings and variety of delicious food. Popcorn, mushroom soup, potato cutlets, canned luncheon meat; we could have been anywhere but Chele! It was now the second day on our cycles and we decided to start early, because of the heavy wind blowing dust and sand around from later in the morning till the afternoon. From Chele, we cycled whenever possible or carried our cycles till we reached Samar. I will never forget Samir saying ‘after the next hill’ which actually meant a long and hard walk! After moving up for a long time, sweating in the hot afternoon sun while at the same time getting battered by the non-stop cold winds, we stood above a deep gorge. From there we enjoyed careen-
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Chele - The oasis in the desert Yes wer’e crazy!! Where are we? Chele – Home for the night
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Keep on Cycling
ing down the steep trail on our cycles to the base of the hill. Onwards to Bhena- Shyangboche-Tama Gaon! Geiling, was tough. Tenzing and I were tired, but we had to reach Geiling before dusk. The trail went through a cluster of small trees and green bushes that grew here, because the rock formations are high enough to keep it cool and moist. The silence there was unnerving; we were the only ones there and our destination was nowhere to be seen. By this time we were pretty low on stamina. Our backs and feet were hurting when we reached Tamagaon, a settlement of a few houses. After some hot tea and noodle soup, we got back on the road again. We had been 30 JULY 2009
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told that Geiling was just around the corner but we proceeded without getting our hopes too high. After nearly 45 minutes, we entered Geiling and were warmly welcomed into a guest house. We spent the evening amidst rounds of Tibetan butter tea, hot raksi (stiff liquor made out of wheat) and delicious food as the raksi acted as medicine for our aches. The next day was clear and sunny and we were geared up to reach Tsarang which is supposed to be four hours away. We all seemed over energized, or maybe it was just the fresh air and healthy food kicking in. On top of that, we had been promised relatively better roads to cycle on from now on. Along the trail to Ghami, we were joined by locals on foot and horseback; the porters carried
wooden window frames and furniture and shepherds herded mountain goats. The landscape was harsh and unforgiving and it is a marvel how the inhabitants manage every day. But then aren’t we humans the most adaptable creatures of all? Samir and Tenzing were busy taking pictures of this place, but images seldom do justice to the magic of a moment. So I tried my best to memorise the moment accurately; the people, the landscape, the smells, the sound of the gushing streams, the sun playing hide and seek with the clouds, the harsh wind and the joy of just being there. We soon reached Ghami, one of the larger towns in Mustang, where we were chased by children who wanted a ride on our cycles. Even grownups were eager to take our
The small community of Lo Manthang is made up of more than a thousand residents whose houses are connected by narrow cobble stone alleys. thought Tenzing was the culprit. He lunged across the room and had pinned Tenzing against the bed. On the other hand Tenzing thought he was being attacked by a wild animal and was about to hit the so called animal on the head with his Maglite!
Ghami – One cycle is not enough !
We entered the town and were chased by children who wanted a ride on our cycles. cycles for a spin. Lunch awaited us in Tsarang and we were soon on our way. Outside Ghami, we passed the longest maney wall in Mustang; its impressive length of approximately a thousand feet is outstanding just for its ability to merge with the surroundings. It was a downhill ride at first, across a stream, then a steep uphill where we needed to tow and carry our bikes. This uphill climb took us up a pass (3820 m), where an undisturbed desert stretched into the horizon. Barren hills and uncanny rock formations with no greenery or the remotest sign of human life welcomed us. The chorten of Tsarang awaited us; the first sign of inhabitation that we noticed. We later found out that the word Tsarang is derived from the Tibetan word Chaptrun Tsetrang (cock’s crest), the crest being the narrow ridge upon which the Tsarang castle stands. Interestingly a Japanese monk, Ekai Kawaguchi is said to have stayed for nine months in Tsarang on his way to Tibet in 1899 AD. A big red stupa forms the gateway to the town. Further ahead, the palace and the monastery of Tsarang are visible amidst fields. It was almost too much to take in – the massive chorten, the ruin of the old fort, the brightly striped gompa and the windswept plateau surrounded by hills. It had been a short day and we contemplated trav-
elling to Lo Manthang directly, but Tsarang beckoned and we stayed there to experience the warmth it offered. At the hotel, I played carom with the porters downstairs. Everyone seemed to be flirting with the hotel owner’s assistant, a pretty Tibetan girl. All of us were holed up in the warm kitchen where we had the chance of making our acquaintance with two tourists. Meg from Australia had cycled the LhasaKathmandu route some years ago, and had
The same night, I was rudely awakened by a loud thud and the pain of being scratched on my forehead.
The next morning we were on the way to Lo Manthang, the capital of Mustang. We had mixed feelings as we realised we were nearing our destination after five days of cycling. The capital of Mustang, Lo Manthang was established around 1450 by the son of the legendary Ame Pal, who conquered and united the small kingdoms in Upper Mustang. A wall, 300 meters long and 150 meters wide, has served as protection against bandits, warriors and the ferocious winds. The small community of Lo Manthang is made up of more than a thousand residents whose houses are connected by narrow cobble stone alleys. The ground floors of most houses have stables where horses of each family are kept and one can see the Mustang Palace towering over the settlement. The locals stared at us in bewilderment as we cycled into Lo Manthang. Small girls washing dishes and clothes in the stream smiled at us. We met Indra Dai, a local businessman and a very helpful soul. He had decided not to keep tourists in his guesthouse
spotted us on the way to Tsarang. She was astonished to know we were cycling to Lo Manthang from Muktinath. Jerome, also an Australian, told us that we would have to pay him to do a trip like this and also have a hefty insurance package taken out! As I lay on my fourth different bed at the end of the fourth day, I wondered about how Mustang looked like an inhospitable and uninhabited place at first, but the place was actually so charming and unique. Despite the hardships, the people seemed content with their lives. The same night, I was rudely awakened by a loud thud and the pain of being scratched on my forehead. I woke up to see Tenzing shout and light up his torch. Samir had dreamt about his cameras being stolen, and in his sleep induced daze, he TIMES JULY 2009 31
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1. Ten-Chi
2. Prayer for peace & prosperity
The Ten-Chi festival, one of the most popular festivals of the region celebrated over three days, would begin the next day. this season; however, as Samir had met him earlier, we were given a room and became happy residents of the entire property. With our bags unpacked and our cycles stored away, we felt a little empty. This was our sixth day on the road and we were excited for whatever Lo Manthang had to offer. I was the only one battling with an injured knee, but that was not going to dampen our plans of visiting the local monasteries, going around the city and enjoying Lo Manthang. We visited the Jhampa monastery, the oldest monastery built in 1387 AD, believed to be a replica of the Ghangtse Jhampa monastery in Tibet which still exists in Ghangtse in Khasa. The sheer size of the monastery itself is an attraction. We also visited the Choyeda monastery, a hub of religious activity which is also the main monastery in Lo Manthang. The Ten-Chi festival, one of the most popular festivals of the region celebrated over three days, would begin the next day. Ten–Chi is a derivative of the Tibetan word Tempa Chirim- meaning a prayer for world peace. However, most people seemed to call the festival Tiji, probably because it is easier to pronounce. It is a ritual centred on the Ten–Chi myth of chasing the demons and 32 JULY 2009
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3. It should rain now!!!
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4. LoManthang!! Here we come
also celebrates the triumph of good over evil. It tells the story of a deity named Dorje Jono who must battle against his demon father to save the kingdom of Mustang from destruction. The demon father wreaks havoc on Mustang by creating a water shortage which, in this extremely arid land, is the most precious life-sustaining resource. Dorje Jono eventually defeats the demon and banishes him from the land. Ten-Chi is a celebration and reaffirmation of this myth. Throughout the festival the events and story of the myth are re-enacted. The festival is timed to coincide with the end of the dry season (late winter/spring) and ushers in the wetter monsoon season. During our stay there, Lo Manthang’s first library was inaugurated. The whole town seemed to be abuzz with excitement and activity. We spent the evening at Indra Dai’s eatery, drinking hot soup and listening to stories of guides and porters who have spent a good part of their lives trekking and guiding tourists to the remotest parts of Nepal. Tsering and Sonam, two brave women who run Indra Dai’s eatery will always be remembered. Sonam’s flirtatious smile and Tsering’s ability to get away with over priced food will always stay with us! These simple, smiling people are the true ambassadors of Nepal, showcasing Nepalese hospitality, bravery and culture to each traveller. We stayed in Lo Manthang for four nights and soon it was time to say goodbye. Due to my injured knee, I opted for a tractor ride along with my cycle from Lo Manthang to
5. Which way?
Chungkar. Once again I did not know what I was in for. The driver was a young man just out of his teens with an unmistakeable “been there, done it all” swagger. We are tossed up in the back of the tractor like grains of wheat. At times we noticed one of the rear wheels hanging out over the edge of the road but the driver carried on unperturbed. The ride to Chungkar took us a good five hours. After lunch and a short rest, I carried on to Syangboche and then to Samar, which was the stop for the night. The next morning I started early having made up my mind to reach Jomson. I cycled through familiar terrain, enjoying the striking sights once again. At Chele I remembered the ride before and did not make the mistake of taking the trail through the rocky hills. I walked along the riverbed of the Kali Gandaki river. The river was swollen and at one point where I had to cross it, the water reached up to my thighs. I narrowly escaped being swept away by the thundering river! A three hour journey got me to Kagbeni, where this unforgettable experience had started 13 days ago. Samir and Tenzing cycled back to Kagbeni and it took them three days. They continued cycling to Beni from where all of us took a bus back to Kathmandu. We will always hold this trip close to our hearts for it has evoked emotions in us, we never knew existed. Our lives each had a part of Mustang in it. We had lived life the Mustang way and are sure that we would be back again.
Yeti Travels – Nepal ’s largest Destination Management Company has ventured into the Adventure Sports segment and regularly organizes mountain biking, 4 X 4 off road challenges, dirt biking and other special interest activities. To know more please visit www.yetitravels.com
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GLOBALTREASURE
C r at e r L a k e N at ion a l Pa r k Few places on earth command overwhelming awe from observers, and Crater Lake National Park, in south central Oregon, is certainly one of them. By Roselyn Palikhe Photos by: Dave Harrison, Dave Grimes, Benita Tsao of National Park Service
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1. Aerial view of Crater Lake
Few places on earth command overwhelming awe from observers, and Crater Lake National Park, in south central Oregon, is certainly one of them.
Located in southern Oregon on the crest of the Cascade Range, 100 miles from the Pacific coast
Overpowering yet sublimely beautiful, Crater Lake National Park has been recommended as a wilderness preserve, a place where we may forget ourselves for a time and enjoy a surge of healthy outdoor exploration.
Overpowering yet sublimely beautiful, Crater Lake National Park has been recommended as a wilderness preserve, a place where we may forget ourselves for a while and enjoy a surge of healthy outdoor exploration. At the park, we may rediscover ourselves and learn that material things do not necessarily constitute our richest possessions. This blue gem of the Cascades certainly moves us deeply when we imagine the awesome power which created this wonderful place. With a product of nature’s grand design, astoundingly beautiful Crater Lake is the main feature of Crater Lake National Park. The lake is magical, enchanting - a remnant of fiery times and a reflector of its adjacent forested slopes. This moody lake at times is brilliantly blue, ominously somber whereas at other times, it is buried in a mass of brooding clouds. Even in a region of volcanic wonders, Crater Lake can only be described in superlatives. Stories of the deep blue lake can never prepare visitors for their first breathtaking look from the brink of this nearly 6 miles wide caldera. Even seasoned travelers gasp at the twenty-mile circle of cliffs, tinted in subtle shades and fringed with hemlock, fir, and pine: all this in a lake of indescribable blue. Some 7,700 years ago volcanic Mt. Mazama erupted in a burst
2. Wizard Island
of energy that made the 1980 Mt. St. Helens pyrotechnics look minor. Before the eruption, the mountain was a 12,000-foot peak in the Cascade chain. As the eruption progressed, exhausting materials from within the ground, the land around the volcano collapsed and a vast bowl remained, more than five miles across and 4,000 feet deep. It is wondrous to think of the amount of energy expressed in that eruption, with its earthquakes, a cubic yardage of earth moved, amounts of molten lava flowing, gases and steam released, and mudflows caused. Subsequent filling up of the crater with snowmelt and rain has created the deepest lake in the U.S., fully 1,932 feet deep and 6x4.5 miles in dimension, a blue sapphire gem of a lake. To appreciate Crater Lake, Oregon’s only National Park, you can drive up to its edge, gaze in, and then skirt it by car or by hiking trail, as the sun and seasonal changes present new perspectives of it. The park is open year round, but full services are available only in summer. Snow around the lake may be present for eight months of the year. Crater Lake National Park is host to a diverse array of activities. While enjoying the natural scenic wonders, park visitors may hike in old growth forests, participate in a variety of interpretive activities, camp out or stay in Crater Lake Lodge or even cross-country ski during the eight month long winter. This is a wonderful bicycle outing, providing, of course, that you have the stamina to withstand the climbs and the wind. All bike
and car travel follows a one-way clockwise pattern around the lake. In winter, Crater Lake offers excellent cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Hiking and camping along with fishing for trout and salmon in the lake are some of the favorite pastimes. For a brief time each year, Crater Lake National Park emerges from winter hibernation to bask in summertime glory. Early season you will be surprised by the amount of snow which remains long into months which are considered mid-summer in most parts of the country. Even most park roads are closed into the late spring which gives a picture of the far more dominant winter scene sensed even in June and early July.
WHAT’S INTERESTING? • The deepest lake in the United States. • The second deepest lake in the Western Hemisphere. • The seventh deepest lake in the world. • Maximum lake depth: 1932 ft • Average lake depth: 1500 ft • Maximum lake width: 6 miles • Lake surface elevation: 6176 feet • Wizard Island elevation: 6940 ft • Wizard Island height above water: 764 ft • Hillman Peak, highest point on rim: 8151 ft • Mount Scott, highest point in park: 8929 ft • Union Peak: 7709 ft • Rim Village elevation: 7100 ft • Precipitation, yearly average: 66 inches • Snowfall, yearly average: 44 ft • Maximum snow depth at Park Headquarters: 21 ft • Park Size: 183224 acres
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1. Pine Pollen Swirling on Crater Lake 2. Vidae Falls along the East Rim Drive 3. Creek in the summer time 4. West Rim Drive in mid-June
However, from October to June, the park turns into a snow covered wilderness, receiving an average of 533 inches of snow annually. A wide variety of trails and unplowed roads provide winter enthusiasts with access to breathtaking views, open slopes, and dense forests, making Crater Lake ideal for both day trippers and backcountry campers who are prepared to face the challenges of winter. By early spring it is typical to have 10 to 15 feet of snow on the ground. While snowfall is common in the Cascade Mountains, Crater Lake is one of the snowiest areas in the entire Northwest. Even in the long, harsh winter months, Crater Lake National Park can still provide the hearty visitor with a phenomenal outdoor experience. While Crater Lake is considered the primary scenic wonder at Crater Lake National Park, management of all the natural resources of the park is given equal weight. As no forest is independent from the streams that run through it or the geologic history which has given rise to its different kinds of soil, ecosystems are dynamic parts of the whole which function according to their inputs and outputs. For example, if down wood is removed from park streams, a major source of habitat for insects is taken away. In turn, fish suffer from the loss of a significant food source. In the end, it is not only the fishermen, who will ache for their catch of yesteryear, but the bear, eagle, and other fish-catching animals will suffer even more. So intricately is the lives of each 38 JULY 2009
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of these aspects intertwined that one cannot thrive in the absence of another. As such, Crater Lake National Park manages its ecosystems for the sustainability of all resources which are found in the park. Objectives of the park’s Resource Management Plan include; securing adequate resource information through scientific research, conserving natural resources, promoting understanding of the geological and biological processes found within the park and how the public may access these resources without their deterioration, and preserving the cultural
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resources found within the park so that they may be enjoyed and understood by future visitors. Crater Lake National Park is an environment with boundaries imposed only by man. Its connections to the world are as inseparable as a tree to its roots. The resource management staff at the park is responsible for overseeing that these connections remain unimpaired for time immemorial, so that generations to come may enjoy this special place.
WEATHER INFORMATION SUMMER The months of July through midSeptember are generally mild with little precipitation. Due to the elevation of the park (6,500 ft. at Park Headquarters and 7,100 ft. at Rim Village), weather conditions may change quickly and a warm jacket and wool sweater are always recommended items to carry. WINTER From October through June, weather conditions dictate preparing for extreme winter conditions. Blizzards, high winds, extreme cold, and low visibility dominate the weather patterns, Visitors should come with cold weather gear.
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PERSONALITYREVIEW
AN HOUR WITH
T. R. MANANDHAR GENERAL MANAGER Tribhuvan International Airport Mr. Tri Ratna Manandhar, a veteran Air Traffic Controller oversees the daily operations of Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA), the only international airport in Nepal. He has been working in this ďŹ eld for more than
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27 years and is now currently the General Manager of TIA. Mr. Manandhar handles airport operation, provision of air navigation services, facilitation, safety and security and emergency services.
Travel Times met up with Mr. Manandhar in his office in TIA after going through a rigorous security checking in the airport lobby. He gave us some of his valuable time to give us a clear picture of his job, working of TIA and the two proposed air routes of Nepal. Here are some of the excerpts from our conversation: How does working amidst high security Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal feel like? (Laughs) TIA, as we all know, is the main hub of business and life in the country and has proudly catered to various domestic and international airlines. We are really concerned about the well being of our passengers so their safety and security is of top most priority. This is my second time in the office as GM so I am pretty used to the hectic work schedule. There is much talk about ‘carbon footprint’ nowadays especially concerning aviation. What is it all about? Carbon footprint refers to the impact of any work in terms of carbon emission. There has been a continuous growth in the movement of passengers. Growth of the passengers signifies a growth in aviation which leads to more air traffic congestions, holdings and delay of aircraft, all leading to increased carbon emission. Increased aircraft emission is a growing concern faced by the international air transport industry today. What has been done to improve the condition? Initiatives have been taken by the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) to address these problems such as introduction of fuel efficient aircrafts, implementation of more efficient route structures in the region including EMARSSH (Europe, Middle East Air Route Structure South of Himalaya) route, introduction of Air Traffic Flow Management and implementation of Reduced Vertical Separation Minima (RSVSM). The minimum vertical separation between two aircrafts flying above 29,000 ft was 2000 ft which has now been reduced to 1000ft which will allow more aircrafts to utilize the same airspace. IATA’s campaign in the form of “Save One Minute per Flight” and its instigation to open a new short, direct and efficient ATS Route is also noteworthy. IATA has already initiated 390 new efficient routes worldwide in 2007. You talk about ‘airspace’. Can you explain what it actually means? Airspace means the portion of the atmosphere controlled by a particular country on top of its territory and territorial waters or, in the context of Nepal portion of the atmosphere over its political boundary. Controlled airspace exists
where air traffic control service is provided to the aircraft flying in that airspace. What has been done for the improvement of air route and air space in Nepal? Development of air route structure in a way to maximize the utilization of the Nepalese airspace is one of the main concerns under National Policy. According to the policy for developing air routes and to utilize maximum airspace of Nepal across mountains and eastwest international flights, coordination with the ICAO and related nations is underway to establish an East- West Himalayan Route and Trans-Himalayan Route with a view to incorporate Nepal’s airspace. Nepal is in process to establish new route from Kathmandu to Delhi via Mahendra Nagar, which will reduce Kathmandu- Delhi distance by about 22 NM (Nautical Miles). In the same way Nepal was also lobbying for the shortest and direct route from Kathmandu to Hongkong since long before. If this route is established, it would be a greatest achievement in the history of Nepalese aviation which will in future pave a way to promote Nepal as an important international hub. Apart from these constant reviewing and upgrading of the airspace is a done regularly. Could you elaborate on the Himalayan route you speak of? Nepal has proposed the Himalaya 1: BangkokKolkata-Nepalgunj-Indek(Pakistan) (Two-way) and Himalaya 2: Kunming-Kathmandu (Twoway) during the EMMARSH project to resolve air traffic congestion in Bay of Bengal. Himalayan 1 Route, supplemented by existing Route L507 (Bangkok-Kolkata-Nepalgunj), will not only ease the traffic flow over Delhi but also improve the bottleneck over Afghanistan. Himalayan 2 Route if established will be the shortest route from Hongkong to Kathmandu & vice versa. Distance of the existing Kathmandu - Hongkong Route is 1770 NM whereas Himalayan 2 Route is only 1669 NM via Impha (capital of the Indian state of Manipur). Now, since 6 NM can be covered by an ordinary aircraft in one minute, and the proposed route is less than the present one by 101 NM, we can save 17 minutes of flight time. This may seem insignificant, but considering that an aircraft uses up to
NAME Tri Ratna Manandhar DATE AND PLACE OF BIRTH 26 June, 1955, Kathmandu EDUCATIONAL QUALIFICATION Master Degree in Economics OFFICE Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal SERVICE ENTRY 1981 as an Air Traffic Controller. PRESENT POSITION General Manager, Tribhuvan International Airport TRAININGS 1.
Basic Air Traffic Control Officer Course in Kathmandu
2.
Advanced Trainings in Approach Control, Radar Control and other aviation related fields from Singapore, Japan, Malaysia and Thailand
COUNTRIES VISITED Singapore, Japan, Thailand, China, Maldives, Malaysia, England, France, Belgium, Ireland, Croatia. SEMINARS & WORKSHOP attended and presented papers in many national and international seminars & workshops
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Himalaya Route : Thin line existing route, thick line proposed route
Trans Himalaya Route: thin line existing route, thick line proposed route BEIJING
SENGHAI
ISLAMABAD
NEW DELHI KATHMANDU CHEGDU NEW DELHI KARACHI
GUHATI LUCKNOW
LHASA
KUNMING HONG KONG
RAJ
KATHMANDU
IMPHAL
LUCKNOW
LASHIO
KOLKATA
HYDERABAD
50 liters of jet fuel in just one minute, this is a great improvement. The distance can be further reduced by 35 NM, if direct routing from Kunming to Kathmandu could be materialized but Kunming, being a military air space, has declined the proposal of the Himalayan 2 Route. However, there is a possibility for flexible use of air space between the civil and military aircraft for maximum benefit. This route has been proposed to be extended up to Delhi, which will ultimately benefit more than a dozen airlines operating scheduled flights to and from Hongkong to Kathmandu, Delhi and several other destinations in the Middle East. Can you describe the Trans-Himalayan route? With a strong projected gross domestic product growth rate and rising per capita income in China and India and unprecedented air traffic growth in the recent years in the two countries, we have opened a new
These routes have been identified as the shortest possible routes for the flights to/ from mainland China and Far East and to Middle East/ Europe via Nepal and Indian Subcontinent. In concurrence of China, this Trans Himalayan route can be extended up to Seoul as a direct and shortest route from Delhi and Kathmandu. In terms of environmental benefit and fuel, time and cost savings, these routes if established have enormous benefits not only for Nepal but the whole world. Nepal intends to draw the attention of operating airlines as well as IATA to continue support for the promulgation of these routes. Now, moving on towards the working of TIA, what are the main challenges faced by the airport? Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) of Kathmandu, which is the only international airport, has still got a long way to meet expansion and technological requirements inclusive of safety standards. The approach
to the needs of passengers efficiently. Is there a need for a new international airport in Nepal then? I firmly believe that a new international airport is necessary for maximum utilization of Nepalese airspace, and to overcome all the limitations and restrictions faced by TIA. Nepal should not be satisfied with a few hundred thousand tourists but must strive for the overall economic development of the country by targeting to bring millions of tourists, for which a second international airport project is a must.
Thank you so much for your time. Anything else you’d like to add? Nepal needs to set up a new full-fledged international airport as early as possible. If the new international airport project cannot be materialized, commercial operations of small aircrafts including helicopters should be shifted away from TIA for safety reasons.
Nepal should not be satisďŹ ed with a few hundred thousand tourists but must strive for the overall economic development of the country by targeting to bring millions of tourists. prospect of Trans Himalayan route; LhasaKathmandu-Lucknow (B 345), flying over Mount Everest. From Lhasa, this route is further extended to Beijing and Shanghai as B213. Nepal has proposed this route to be extended to Delhi and beyond as follows: i. Beijing-Chengdu-Lhasa-KathmanduDelhi or Beijing-Lanzhou-Lhasa-KathmanduDelhi ii. Shanghai-Chengdu-LhasaKathmandu-Delhi 42 JULY 2009
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and departure procedures in Nepal due to its difficult high terrain and narrow valley demand extra capabilities from all pilots, which seem to have discouraged a great many international flights in Nepal. Seeing the trend in growth of passengers, there could be at least 3 million passengers by the year 2015, so the existing capacity of TIA will not be sufficient to accommodate the growing number of air passengers in Nepal. All these technological factors are suggestive of the fact that TIA is currently unable to cater
I strongly believe that there should be at least one International ATS route passing through Nepalese airspace over flying Kathmandu Flight Information Region so as to keep Nepal within the scope of International Civil Aviation. Otherwise Nepal will be isolated from the broad spectrum of international air transport activities i.e. TIA will have to operate just as the substation of Delhi and Bangkok. For this, concerted efforts from politicians as well as support from the grass root level are very essential.
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DESTINATIONSPOTLIGHT
Exploring the Sacred
TSUM VALLEY By Valeriy Garkaln and his wife Dr. Nadia Neupokoeva Photos by: Valeriy Garkaln
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TSUM COMES FROM THE TIBETAN WORD “TSOMBO� WHICH MEANS VIVID.
Tsum Valley is situated in the northern Gorkha district of Nepal,
Tsum Valley is situated in the northern Gorkha district of Nepal, surrounded by the Buddha Himal with Himal Chuli to the west, Ganesh Himal to the south, and Sringi Himal to the north. Tsum is one of the eight sacred valleys (called Beyuls) in the inner Himalayas and owes its genesis to the 8th century Buddhist saint Padmasmbhava. Legend has it that Padmasambhava created beyuls as a refuge for people fleeing from the adverse effects of war, famine or from religious persecution. Saturated with Buddhist culture, these valleys uphold religious values and help preserve the lost way of life. Tsum valley is inhabited by Tsumbas, an indigenous community.
Together with the majestic back drops of the famous Ganesh Himal, Sringi Himal and Buddha Himal, this serene valley carries a history of ancient Himalayan civilization styles, culture, art, tradition, religion, customs and thinking.
Fields and pastures close to Chhokangparo
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View of Rachen Gompa, at the foot of a hill
IN AND AROUND TSUM VALLEY Places like Tsum and other remote Himalayan villages have a long history of flourishing Buddhist religion and culture and with considerable influence. The ancient remains are also clearly visible and can be seen by everyone.
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When you reach the first settlement in Upper Tsum, you immediately feel as though you have been transported to another world. The valley is beautiful with small and very decorative stone-built settlements, cultivated fields, crystal clear streams, massive forests and towering snowy 7000 m peaks. Walking along the old Nepal – Tibet caravan path leads you to Mu Gompa, which was established in 1895 and restored in 1998. Close to Mu Gompa is the oldest monastery in the valley – Dephyudonma Gumba, founded about 700 years ago. The landscape is dotted with mani walls, chortens and kaanis (gateway chortens). Chortens are Buddhist religious monuments, also known as stupas, which are distinct features in Tsum Valley. They are erected to ward off evil spirits from places that are identified as thresholds
A family praying-room at a Lower Tsum village
such as confluences and bridges or to commemorate the visit or death of historic figures, lamas or even relatives. Kaanis are also called gateway chortens placed before the entry of any village which travelers are supposed to walk through. Mani walls are long walls made of mani stones i.e. stones with carved mantras. The main purpose of these mani walls is to ask gods for the wellbeing of travelers. Around Tsum Valley, at higher altitudes, closer to the glaciers and snow peaks, there are a few circular routes. The best thing, after observation of Upper Tsum from Chhokangparo up to Mu Gompa, is to take a day’s rest and then continue exploring the valley. Two routes are especially
The setting sun casting a golden glow over the Ganesh Himal range
recommended; a high altitude hike around Mu Gompa and another one around Ganesh Himal Circuit. The first one starts from Dephyudonma Gumba. This trial takes 6-7 days and ranges in altitude from 4000 to 5000 m. The trial is the same one that locals use to go to Tibet. Caravans of yaks travel to Tibet every two months to get the necessary food supplies for monks. The highest pass here is Ngula Dhojhyag (5093 m). The area is home to fauna such as blue sheep, yaks, naks and chauris. The second trail is the one to Ganesh Himal Base Camp (3888 m) from Dumje. In the past this trail was used only by monks and nuns. A glacial lake called Kangthang can be seen from
Nile-Chhule settlement
Prayer flags fluttering
the lap of Ganesh Himal. For the avid trekker and even for those who might not be as familiar to high altitude treks, the Tsum valley is truly a delight.
A WORLD WITHIN ITSELF What not to miss in Tsum Valley Upper Tsum Valley is a separate world where nature, people and spirit co-exist in harmony. The people here never slaughter animals, not even as a sacrifice to the gods as is customary in many parts of the world. Every single family sends a child to the local monastery to become a monk or a nun. Rachen Gompa is the biggest nunnery/monastery in the val-
ley with life size statues of Avalokiteshwara, Guru Padmasambhava, Tara and Buddha Amitabha. The interiors of this monastery are richly painted with murals depicting Buddhism. Tara, an avatar of the Buddha, is worshipped from September to November. During this time the nuns are invited into the villages for ceremonies. Piren (pigeon) Phu (cave) - also known as Milarepa cave- located in the village of Burji, is one of the most sacred caves in Tsum Valley. The great Buddhist Yogi Chyuchin Milarepa is said to have meditated here once. Footprints of the great
2009Cave 47 TIMES Sacred Stupas (chortens) nearJULY Milarepa’s
1. Chortens near Mu Gompa 2. Young monks prepare lunch inside Mu Gompa 3. Karma Lama, whom we called Ama (mother), entertains guests at her home in Chhokangparo
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Buddhist Yogi Chyuchin Milarepa have been preserved here. The cave is probably the largest and the most popular cave in Northern Gorkha. There are two separate gumbas attached to the same rocky cave which houses the life size statues of Avaloketishvara, Budhha, Tara and Milarepa.
Explain yourselves properly, abide by the simple rules and you shall be treated like one of their own. Kyimulung is the sacred and secret Buddhist pilgrimage circuit in the mountains around Tsum Valley in a 30 km radius of the Nepal-China border. It is bounded by Lajyang Bhanjyang in the west, Thapla in the east, and goes through places such as Chhekam, Philim, Sirdibas, Dyang, Bihi, Namrung, Prok and Lho in Nepal and Rui Gaon, Ning, Sala Himal and Nyang in Tibet. Buddhists circumambulate the region 48 JULY 2009
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clockwise. It takes about 30 days to complete the circuit. Buddhist religion has a keen sense of beauty- a mystic sense of nature that plays an important part in leading the mind from the mundane to the higher and deeper world of the divine and in transforming mere existence into an experience of living with wisdom and compassion.
small groups. Explain yourselves properly, abide by the simple rules and you shall be treated like one of their own. In many homes, people will not accept money for lodging and will only charge you for the food. Feel free to pay a little more but do not force them to take money for lodging. This might offend some locals.
A FORGOTTEN HOW TO GET THERE CORNER OF THE WORLD The real gem in Tsum valley is the Upper Tsum valley. You can visit Upper Tsum valley by availing the services of a local professional guide. Two special permits are needed and these permits can be prepared in Kathmandu. Help is also available from the Tsum Welfare Committee (TWC) if you think you need help planning your itinerary. Please note that no guesthouses or lodges are available once you enter Tsum valley. Local families often provide accommodation for
Due to inaccessibility, remoteness and migration of the youth to urban areas, this sacred valley and its people have been suffering from a major economic and developmental setback. Suppressed by the challenges of everyday life, they have been forced into becoming a minority. The art, culture, tradition and religious values of this place near the danger of total extinction. Hence, it is as much the responsibility of travelers who visit the place as it is of the government to promote
the place in order to help protect what this place stands for. Tsum valley might be popular for being a forgotten, exotic corner of the world, but people here should not be reduced to being put on show. If you go to Tsum valley, tell friends and family about the place but do not forget to mention the people and the conditions under which they are living. Help develop Tsum Valley.
NOTE Explore Himalaya Travel & Adventure runs treks to Tsum valley and Ganesh Himal Circuit. For detailed itinerary of Tsum Valley Trek browse www.explorehimalaya.com
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Devotees and culture enthusiasts travel from all over the world to catch a glimpse of the Jokhng Temple , Potala the Winter palace, and Norbulingka the summer palace of Tibet. PEOPLE&CULTURE
Unfolding the mysteries of
TIBET By Ngawang Tenpa Ratutsang Representative, Tibet Travel & Tours Pvt. Ltd.
The Rooftop of the World, the true abode of the Dalai Lama, Tibet is famous all over the world as the destination for people in search of spirituality and true peace of mind. Even after Tibet was invaded by China and the Dalai Lama was forced into exile in Dharamsala forcing thousands of Tibetans to flee as refugees to Nepal and other neighboring countries, Tibetans have managed to cling to their rich culture. Nestled in the Himalayas, Tibet has many topographical wonders to boast of. It is composed largely of mountains, southern and northern Tibet plateau lake areas, and eastern Tibet high mountain valley areas. The region boasts of more than 50 peaks each with a height of over 7000 meters and five over 8000 meters. Tibet is also home to three world class nature reserves, namely Qomolangma (Mount Everest), Northern Tibet Changtang and Eastern Tibet Yarlung Zangbo (Tsangpo in Tibetan) Grand Canyon Nature Reserve. Devotees and culture enthusiasts travel from all over the world to catch a glimpse of the Jokhng Temple established in the 7th Century, Potala-the Winter palace, and Norbulingka, the summer palace of Tibet. Influenced mainly by Tibet’s landscape, the natives have unique customs that deal with everything from the celebration of life and religion to death. They have solemn ceremonies, mystical taboos and interesting etiquette for everything under the sun. The Tibetan way of life proved fascinating enough for me to want to share what little I have learnt about them. Tibetans are exceedingly courteous and have many rules and quaint etiquette governing each form of their relationships. They are very polite; they add ‘la’ after the name when they call someone to show respect. When meeting a friend or an acquaintance, a Tibetan removes his hat and bows while holding his hat in front of his chest. The other person should also do the same. Whether talking or walking, the host always lets the guest go TIMES JULY 2009 51
first. People must sit cross-legged as it is very rude to point the sole of your shoes or feet towards other people. When entering a house or a tent, people should avoid stepping on the threshold. Monks and nuns are not allowed to sit together so when seated inside, men sit on the left, while women sit on the right. However, lay men and women sit together, be it a festival or while receiving a teaching. The hostess pours yak butter tea for the guest who must wait until the host presents the bowl. The guest should not empty his bowl; the host will add more tea to your bowl to ensure that it is never empty as a full bowl signifies lasting abundance. It is impolite to spit in front of or behind others. Clapping hands behind others or touching others’ heads is also considered impolite. Presenting Khatag, a white, loosely woven scarf, is very popular in Tibet. Generally, the presenter holds it with both arms stretched out evenly before him, and makes a little bow. The receiver should accept it with both hands and put it on around his neck to wear it, because putting it down immediately is considered rude. When presenting a Khatag to a senior, arms raised up above the head and while presenting to people of the same age or younger- the presenter can tie it di52 JULY 2009
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rectly to their necks. This custom is derived from the ancient practice of adorning deities with clothing and has evolved into a greeting of respect and caring. On another note, some Tibetans believe that photos can steal their soul and whether or not you agree, taking pictures of people without their permission can be intrusive. During festivals, a guest is offered Chang or Changkol (a homemade beer made out of barley, wheat and even rice). The guest is to sip only once from the bowl, and then allow the host to fill it. This is done three times and on the fourth time, the guest must empty the bowl. After this process is completed, the guest can drink as much as he likes! In fact, he must drink a lot or the host will think that he is not pleased with the treat or that he is very unfriendly. As a Tibetan saying goes, ‘One bowl only will make good friends enemies.’ Religion is very important in Tibet. The dominant religion here is Tibetan Buddhism. After all, when one thinks of Tibet, one envisions the colorful temples, the monks in their long maroon robes, pilgrims burning incense, lighting yak butter candles, or meditating in front of a thanka, perhaps reciting sutras, murmuring mantras, hanging
prayer flags, or turning endless rows of prayer wheels surrounding temples and religious sites. They even have special rituals when it comes to visiting the temples. A monastery shouldn’t be entered without permission. As of now, people collect monastery entrance fees so permission is a must. One should always walk clockwise around a monastery, mani stones, pagodas, or other religious structures. Prayer wheels should always be turned clockwise too. Tibetans use the Tibetan calendar with its unique traditional astronomic calculation method, which is different from the Lunar and the Solar calendar. It is a rather accurate science that combines the primitive calendar of Tibet and those of the Indians and the Han people. The calendar is respected and adhered to with utmost conviction; in fact all the customs and habits of the Tibetans are guided by their calendar Tibet is virtually a
‘One bowl only will make good friends enemies’
cornucopia of festivals. The most important among these is the Tibetan New Year. Preparation for this festival starts from the beginning of the 12th Tibetan month.
In fact, he must drink a lot or the host will think that he is not pleased with the treat or that he is very unfriendly.
Two nights before the New Year day is the night of Ghost Exorcising Festival, when the natives actively participate in driving away any possible evil spirits or ghosts. Main activities involved are chasing away of the evil spirits and exploding fire crackers and whistling. Whistling at other times is treated as inauspicious. On this night, every Tibetan home will prepare a stew called Guthuk. In the evening, after having Guthuk, torches and fireworks are lit to scare off ghosts. On the very early morning of the New Year, Tibetans put on their best clothes and propose toasts with Qingke (Changkol in Tibetan) to neighbors and exchange good wishes saying “Tashideleg�. It is considered a taboo to sweep the floor during the New Year and people try to refrain from quarreling and crying. Besides the New Year celebrations, the Great Summons Ceremony, which is celebrated from the 3rd to the 24th day of the first Tibetan month, is considered the grandest of their religious festivals. During the festival, thousands of monks pour into Lhasa forming a veritable sea of Kasaya vestments and TIMES JULY 2009 53
chanting sutras. The jolliest festival of Tibet, the Butter Lantern Festival falls on the 15th day of the first Tibetan month. People go to pray in temples and monasteries during daytime, while at night there is a lantern show with various lanterns of butter sculptures artistically shaped as deities, animals, plants, and human figures. Shoton Festival or the Yogurt Banquet is the liveliest festival of summer. To Buddhists, this ceremony is a means of purification of the sprit and the soul. Harvest Festival or Ongkor is mainly celebrated to pray for good harvest. On this day, farmers carry harvest pagodas and circle around their fields beating drums, chanting holy songs and dancing. The Bathing Festival lasts for one week in the early part of the 7th Tibetan month. Legend has it that when pestilence was widespread, Avalokitesvara, a Buddhist deity, poured holy water into the rivers and people recovered miraculously after bathing there. Ever since, people have bathed in the rivers during this week in the belief that it will not only cleanse the body, but also cure potential diseases. A primitive religion called Bon which is found in abundance in old Tibet and focuses mainly on sacrifices, is comprised of three rituals: the burning of aromatic
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plants, blood sacrifices and dances. Chemar, a box containing Tsampa or other grains and stuck with butter sculptures, is the traditional offering to deities, as animal sacrifices have now become obsolete due to the forbiddance of killing in Buddhism.
They believe that death is not a termination of life but rather gives way for rebirth. Tibetans are firm believers of reincarnation. They believe that death is not a termination of life but rather gives way for rebirth. Hence the process of burial is given the utmost importance, and they have a variety of burial customs. For example, Stupa burial is the noblest funeral and is reserved for the Dalai Lama, Panchen Lama and the Living Buddha. After the nirvana of a high Lama, the embalmed corpse is dehydrated and wrapped with rare medicinal herbs and spices. The corpse is then moved to the stupa encased in gold plating and preserved for worshiping. In case of cremation the corpse is placed on a stack of wood and straw and then cremated. The ashes of the sainted monks are added to tsatsas (clay impressions of holy objects, images of deities or sacred symbols) and thus preserved. The corpse is wrapped in with white cloth and disposed
into a river in case of a Water Burial. However “Sky Burial” has to be the most dominant and most peculiar burial rite of the Tibetans. It involves the offering of the dead to the vultures of the vast skies. Although it might sound gruesome to us, this ritual is adopted by almost all Tibetan residents as Buddhism advocates that “the soul is immortal and the body is only a carrier, it would be better to benefit other creatures rather than let the body rot”. Vultures are sacred birds in the eyes of Tibetans, which are avatars of Dakini. What an honor to be useful to sacred birds even after death! Family members however are not allowed to be present at the burial site or witness the ritual, as Tibetans believe it will have a negative impact to the ascending souls. Mourners avoid going to the deceased’s house for two days after the burial, lest the souls will be brought back home. And there you have it ! A little peek into the oriental world of Tibet. From day-to-day encounters to matters of life and death and even after, Tibetans have a unique way of perceiving and dealing with the world. An interested tourist should very well be armed with knowledge about Tibetan culture before diving headfirst into the delights of Tibet! Happy traveling…
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ADVENTUREINTRO
OPENING THE SKIES ABOVE EVEREST “Keep calm, breathe the oxygen normally, do not exert yourself at this altitude, you will need all your energy for the skydive.........” By Wendy Smith
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Passenger Scott Diesel and Tandem Instuctor Tom Nonoon in freefall Photos by Wendy Smith
SKYDIVING OR PARACHUTING as it is more popularly known is the sport of jumping from enough height to deploy a parachute and land safely.
The sport appears to have started with Andre-Jacques Garnerin who made successful parachute jumps from a hot-air balloon in 1797. The military is actually credited with developing parachuting technology in its early years, first as a way to save aircrew from emergencies aboard balloons and aircrafts in flight and later as a way of delivering soldiers to the battlefield. Early competitions date back to the 1930s and it became an international sport in 1951.
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1 | 2 | 3 Syangboche Drop Zone at 12.500 feet (Photos by Shanker)
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4 | 5 Prepartion for skydive and exit (Photos by Wendy Smith)
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6 | 7 Flying in the Himalayas (Photos by Wendy Smith)
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8 Kate and Tom in freefall from 29.500 feet (Photos by Wendy Smith)
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9 | 10 Under canopy high above the Drop Zone (Shanker)
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World renowned sky diver and photographer Wendy Smith participated in this one of a kind skydiving event which shatters all previous records of high altitude diving. The dive was over Mount Everest! The following is a personal account of this adventure in her words. At 29,500 feet, with a wind chill in the slip stream of - 45 degrees, the Pilatus Porter single engine aircraft is running in along a fine invisible axis far above our landing area at 12,500 feet in the valley below. The last 20 minutes of a 40 minute climb to this exacting altitude had become very cold, since it was necessary to cut the heating to maximize aircraft climb power.
There we were, as part of World’s Highest Skydiving Adventure, skydiving in front of Mount Everest (29,035ft / 8848m), in a World Heritage national park, freefalling past some of the world’s highest mountain peaks, landing on the highest drop zone in the world, the first aircraft operation at 12,500 feet in 12 years.
I could feel my head pulse beating hard against the inside of my camera helmet, butterflies of excitement running through my body. I have been jumping out of airplanes since I was 17 which amounts to nearly 18,000 skydives. But I just couldn’t get over where I was.
I can now appreciate the sublime feeling of those who have made a summit of Mount Everest, because out in freefall next to these amazing towering mountains of the Himalayas, the feeling is unlike anything else. Growing up as a young farm girl with the mountains, valleys and freedom of nature surrounding me in New Zealand, Sir Edmund Hillary had always been my hero, my country’s icon and undoubtedly the most 4
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important man in New Zealand history. I always knew I would visit this place that he loved so much, but I never knew the full intent of my destiny- to be one of the first skydivers in the world, jumping out in freefall above this legendary, mythic mountain. Ever since I left New Zealand as a registered nurse to travel and pursue my career in skydiving, I have carried that famous NZ $5.00 note my good luck charm, with Sir Edmund’s face on
As the days passed at crew base camp, we acclimatized and set up the airfield structure. No aircraft had landed here in twelve years and it had taken the locals two months to roll out this 800 meter runway toiling away with their bare hands. it. I had it with me in October of 2008, for nearly a month, as we lived at 4000 meters. We had 41 clients trekking up from Lukla to Syangboche along with 103 yaks supporting equipment specially designed and manufactured for this amazing adventure. The crew had been picked by Nigel Gifford, the brain child of this entire expedition. Mountaineer, parachutist and travel adventure guide, Nigel had chosen well - experts in parachuting, mountain safety, oxygen experts from previous Everest ballooning records, high altitude mountain pilots, aircraft from Switzerland, doctors of medicine and mountaineers and Explore Himalaya Travel & Adventure company from Kathmandu, with in-country Sherpas as mountain guides. All of it was for this one in a life time opportunity - to initiate a future ad-
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Kate and Tom landing (Photo by Wendy Smith)
venture tourism idea of ‘Everest Skydive’ to the Himalayas, to Nepal and to the world. As the days passed at crew base camp, we acclimatized and set up the airfield structure. No aircraft had landed here in twelve years and it had taken the locals two months to roll out this 800 meter runway toiling away with their bare hands. From the blue barrels on the yaks’ back to our equipment store house at 12,500 feet, all the equipment was set up and checked. We were ready for our first clients and the first fly in and landing of the Pilatus Porter PC6 turbine aircraft from Switzerland. From the first exit out into thin air at 29,500 feet, to becoming part of the immense chain of mountains, feeling like they were going to swallow you up, I knew this was to be a great privilege, my dreams coming true but in a way I had never imagined possible - flying my own body in this space and environment. It was simply spectacular. My duties as a photographer kicked in immediately mid-air. It was amazing capturing the first time jump clients - skydiving friends and instructors in this impressively humbling arena. For such an experience of a life time, I am delighted to return this year with ‘Explore Himalaya’ as their European Event Organizer for Everest Skydive 2009. Knowing the pleasure that we delivered to our clients for their personal achievements and the money raised with Global Angels Charity for the Children of the Himalayas (US $300,000), we can continue to deliver this experience again for clients from the world over and give back to Nepal with our fund raising for the future education in Enviroment Sustainablitiy for children in Asia.
A World Record and Guinness Book Record holding skydiver, Wendy Smith was one of the daredevils to leap from an aircraft at a record height of 9000m in the skies above Mount Everest last fall, as part of an international group of amateur and professional skydivers at the Everest Skydive 2008. Wendy made her first jump in 1985, in New Zealand. She has a passion and talent for photography and filming. Her technical abilities have allowed her to cover - cameras on helmet - exceptional reportages and international skydiving events. She has co-produced, filmed and participated in extreme skydiving movie and published a photographic book, ‘Eyes in the Sky’, to compliment 15 years of sport skydiving with French photographer and film-maker Patrick Passe. She is the European Event Organizer Everest for Skydive 2009. This journey would not have been possible without the trust and co-operation of the Nepal Tourism Board, Nigel Gifford and Explore Himalaya’s insight to the future. “Everest Skydive 2009” is managed and operated by Explore Himalaya Travel & Adventure. www.everest-skydive.com www.explorehimalaya.com For more information on Global Angels Charity www.globalangels.org .org
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HOTELS&CASINOS
DESTINATION PARADISE
the fulbari R
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A piece of paradise here on Earth, The Fulbari Resort and Spa, has the perfect blend of classic beauty and elegant style with distinctive hospitality. Mesmerizing its guest just by its grandeur, this resort ranks among the best in the country. By Prita Malla
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Suitably secluded from the hustle of city life giving you an option to relish in a peaceful and serene environment filled with verdant fields, the resort offers unparallel panoramas of Fishtail and Annapurna mountain ranges. If you are a first-time visitor to Nepal, then Pokhara should be in your list of must visit places; for no visit to Nepal is complete without the scenic views of beautiful lakes and stunning panoramic views of Himalayan peaks from Pokhara. And if this isn’t the first time you are here, then you definitely know what we are talking about. The serenity of lakes and the grandeur of the Himalayas rising behind them create an ambience of delightful peace and mystique. The city has not only become the starting point for most popular trekking and rafting destinations but also a place to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. And what better way to rest and relax than at The Fulbari Resort and Spa, the ultimate blend of contemporary international standards and time-honored traditions. The hotel offers luxury along with comfort with modern and sophisticated facilities that are hard to obtain elsewhere. Re-imagining architectural wonders of Nepal’s golden age, The Fulbari Resort & Spa stands as a manifestation of the beauty espoused by the ancient Malla Kings of Kathmandu Valley. Suitably secluded from the hustle of city life giving you an option to relish in a peaceful and serene environment filled with verdant fields, the resort also offers unparallel panoramas of The Machhapuchhre and Annapurna mountain ranges to the north, and the breathtaking Seti River Gorges to the south. The resort has 165 exquisitely decorated super deluxe accommodations. The rooms offer incomparable style of simplicity and elegance, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies to allow breathtaking views of the Himalayas and the resort’s landscaped gardens. All rooms are equipped with all the modern amenities from airconditioning to television, mini-bars, and
fire protection systems. Deluxe rooms are configured into single, double, King- and Queen-sized niches, all with amenities and facilities. Similarly, the Super and Royal Executive Club rooms can make your stay in Pokhara very memorable. The 4 luxurious Honeymoon Suites are named after legendary universal beauties; Nepal’s very own Raja Mati, Mumtaj of India, Helen of Troy, and Egypt’s Cleopatra. These suites are tastefully decorated with in-room Jacuzzi. The nine Landmark suites characterize the ethnically and culturally diverse districts of Nepal. The Kantipur, Lalitpur, and Bhaktapur suites represent the Newar civilization of Kathmandu Valley. The Helumbu and Namche suites evoke the Northeast Sherpa culture of Mt. Everest region, and Jomsom represents the northwestern Nepalese-Tibetan region. The Palpa suite reflects western Nepal, while the Dhankuta and Ilam suites embody the near-eastern and far-eastern Nepal, so you experience the whole of Nepal in just a few rooms. Apart from the superlative view, the resort is also famous for its worldclass restaurants. The Café Fulbari is a coffee shop which offers all-day continental cuisine as well as some selected dishes from South Asia. The Masala Bazaar, the “spice market”, represents all the delicious cuisines found along the ancient spice route that ranged from the Far East to the Middle East. Diners will also be serenaded by Gazal singers providing music to complement the setting and the food. The Komagane restaurant offers a cozy environment for guests to try out classic Japanese dishes prepared on its wide tepanyakis. The Hanging Garden restaurant is the best place if you crave for barbequed meat and other light dishes to munch alongside tall TIMES JULY 2009 63
chilled glasses of beer and cocktails. The Gurkha Bar is the resort’s lobby bar, offering a classic lounge ambience dedicated to the bravery of Nepal’s famous Gurkha regiments. Alongside the khukuris and embalms of the mighty Gurkhas, the bar also offers the best public views within the hotel of the iconic Machhapuchhre and mighty Annapurna mountain range. Rainbow Lounge is located opposite of the registration desk and offers a quiet spot far away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the resort providing best views within the resort of the back gardens, the 12 hittie (stone water spouts) pond, and the swimming pool. If you are addicted to the gentleman’s game, then this resort is your perfect solution as it is the only property in Pokhara to have its own Yeti’s Golf Course. It is a 9 Hole Executive Golf Course, designed to be Nepal’s most iconic and unique course that challenges not only amateurs but professionals as well. Overlooking the Seti River Gorge, players not only have to navigate the usual water hazards and sand traps, but also the 300 ft. gorges that intersect some holes. A number of the tee shots across the Seti Gorge will challenge even the very best golfer. The area is tranquil, the views of the Himalayas and the Seti River spectacular, and by the 9th hole you will really have earned your refreshment. Golfers can avail themselves with the luxuries of the Fulbari Resort & Spa, attached to the golf course, open all year-round. It also has the Club House offering a Coffee shop and a bar, and small pro-shop selling golf amenities. Club membership for local and overseas golfers is also available, which allows discounts for spouses and guests at other facilities and outlets in the Resort. After a hectic day of sightseeing, who wouldn’t want to relax in the Fulbari Avatar - Relax & Rejuvenate – Spa which is renowned for its soothing treatments and has been nominated as one of ‘The Great Spa Hotels of The World’ ? The whole atmosphere encourages relaxation, and good health. It is the Mecca for the rejuvenation of mind, body and spirit. Managed by experts, Spa Avatar is a sanctuary to rest, unwind and indulge. Here you can pamper yourself with time-honored Himalayan remedies and world class spa therapies in 6 elegantly designed private spa suites. It offers treatments and packages, that range from aromatherapy with exotic Himalayan incense for the jetsetter executives to a combination of deep cleansing facials and 64 JULY 2009
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massages for the ones just back from an exhilarating trek, and floral Jacuzzis that are simply designed to give a true feeling of spiritual and physical well-being. Ananda (in Sanskrit, a state of blissfulness), a holistically inspired integrated health care and life improvement centre, is just what the name implies. It provides detoxification, weight loss, anti-aging facilities along with age-old Himalayan Ayurvedic system of healing. Therapy pools, steam and sauna rooms, a gymnasium, an aerobics studio, and a hair salon all add to the Ananda’s exceptional facilities. For those who believe that life is a gamble, the resort offers a worldclass gaming facilityCasino Fulbari. The newly opened Casino offers the most exciting gambling pleasures. All the usual favorites are available for the daring gambler, including slot machines, blackjack, roulettes and more so one can enjoy the thrills of Vegas at the base of the Himalayas. The resort provides a multifunctional conference hall for those on the move. The conference room is perfect for groups between 20 and 120 people. Seti and Kali meeting rooms are apposite for smaller corporate meetings while Marsyangdi can be used as a premier venue for larger social events and conventions. These rooms are fully equipped with state of the art audio-visual equipment and a supporting business center. A tempting choice of outdoor and indoor recreation facilities include tennis court, table tennis, snooker, outdoor swimming pool with Jacuzzi and swim-up bar, well equipped gymnasium and an entertainment center. Traditional dances and Meditation/ Yoga can also be available on request. Pony rides and bird watching are equally fun and relaxing. The resort offers its own helipad, allowing guests to not only charter flights from elsewhere and land directly within the resort property, but also to utilize the resort as the starting point for other adventures. The resort also provides varied packages to choose from according to one’s needs; Pokhara Paradise, Honeymoon, Recreational, Casino, Dashain and Golfing Packages. The beauty and elegance of the Fulbari Resort and Spa is inspiring, but the full credit of its continual enhancement goes to its dedicated management staff who have worked endlessly to make the guests feel at home, thus maintaining its rank as one of the top resorts in Pokhara.
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NATURE&WILDLIFE
V U LT U R E S S OA R I N G H I G H I N T H E B LU E S By Dr. Surya Paudel, Vulture Conservation Programme, BCN
A huge mangy bird... circling in the sky. Its characteristic bald head, swiveling in search of corpses to feast on. It spots a recent kill; swoops down, plunges its big, distorted beak into the carcass and tears into esh. Soon its friends join in the gruesome deed. A scary sight to envision? True, but imagine a world without vultures. Feeding on carcasses of dead animals, these kings among scavengers help to clean up after the natural process of death.
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These birds are of great value as scavengers, especially in hot regions. They can easily digest decayed and rotten carcass infected with harmful zoonotic diseases. Vultures may look brutish and aggressive, but like all birds, they are very family-oriented. They start building nests from the Nepali month of Asoj (September/October) and usually lay only a single egg. The chick hatches after an incubation period of about 75 days and starts its flight on an average of 120 days after its hatching. Vultures gorge themselves when prey is abundant until their crop bulges, and sit, sleepy or half torpid, to digest their food. Unlike other birds they disgorge the food from the crop to feed their young. These birds are of great value as scavengers, especially in hot regions. They can easily digest decayed and rotten carcass infected with harmful zoonotic diseases like anthrax, tuberculosis, brucellosis and cholera, hence eliminating any chances of epidemics. And you thought vultures were bad!
White-rumped
Slender-billed
Egyptian
Red-headed
Nepal has its own “garbage disposal� squad: six species of vultures namely White-rumped (Gyps bengalensis), Slender-billed (Gyps tenuirostris), Egyptian (Neophron percnopterus), Red-headed (Sarcogyps calvus), Himalayan Griffon (Gyps himalayensis), and Lammergeier (Gypaetus barbatus), are residents of Nepal where as Cinereous (Aegypius monachus) are winter visitors to Nepal in small numbers and the Eurasian Griffon (Gyps fulvus) is primarily a passage migrant through Nepal. Lammergeier is a common and widespread resident found at altitudes of 1200-4100 m. They have a unique habit of splitting bones for the marrow by dropping them from a great height. Egyptian vultures, listed as endangered species, are fairly common in the central and western parts. They are small in size with long, pointed wings and a wedgeshaped tail. White-rumped vultures, formerly common and widespread residents found in the range of 1000-1800 m, are now critically endangered. The number of Slender-billed vultures has sharply declined making it one of many critically endangered species. They are mainly found below 350 m, but in the summer time they fly up to 1525 m. Himalayan Griffons are the largest of the Gyps vultures,
Himalayan Griffon
Lammergeier
Cinereous
Eurasian Griffon
Decline in the number of vultures has a range of socio-economic, as well as cultural and biodiversityrelated impacts. with a broader body and slightly longer tail. Eurasian Griffons which are quite similar to Himalayan Griffons, are rare passage migrants that have been recorded below 915 m. Cinereous vulture, a near threatened species, is mainly a winter visitor, found below 2900 m. Red-headed vultures, listed as critically endangered species, are found below 2000 m. Vultures seem invulnerable, but sadly, the vulture population in Nepal and the Indian subcontinent has undergone a dramatic decline in number since the mid 1990s. It doesn’t help that vultures only lay a single egg in a year. On an average more than 95% of the Gyps population has collapsed leading to probable extinction of the species. Diclofenac, a potential NSAID (Non Steroidal Antiinflammatory Drug), used to cure pain and inflammation in animals, is the major cause for the precipitous decline in vulture population. Vultures are exposed to diclofenac when they feed on livestock carcasses with residues of this drug which stimulates the uric acid level in their body to rise, causing death by nephrotoxicity. Decline in the number of vultures has a range of socio-economic, as well as cultural and biodiversity-related impacts. One adult vulture consumes a kg of decaying meat in every three days, averaging 120 kg per year, so around 160 million vultures in India and Nepal were consuming 20 million tons of meat per year during the nineties. It is obvious that if measures are not taken promptly in order to protect and conserve these useful birds, the world would be full of rotting carcasses, creating a drastic ecological imbalance, which would very likely be the least of our worries considering the hellish stench and sight! Let it not be said that Nepal has done nothing for the conservation of these birds. Bird Conservation Nepal (BCN*) along with the cooperation of other organizations has massively contributed in their conservation. This includes a vulture restaurant, vulture breeding centre, highway transaction surveys, NSAID monitoring and awareness campaigns among other activities. TIMES JULY 2009 67
1
3
5
2
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Jatayu (Vulture) Restaurant, specially built to protect the declining number of natural scavengers and increase their chances of survival in the wild, is a place where vultures are provided with clean, safe and diclofenacfree food, in stewardship and management of the local communities. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Vultures settle down for their lunch at Jatayu Restaurant. Vultures feeding on the carcass of a Wild-beast. Young White-rumped vultures at the breeding centre. Counting the days until their release into the wild. Birdwatchers enjoying the acrobatic performance from the hide. A researcher at work.
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Jatayu (vulture) Restaurant, specially built to protect the declining number of natural scavengers and increase their chances of survival in the wild, is a place where vultures are provided with clean, safe and diclofenac-free food, in stewardship and management of the local communities. When cattle become old and unproductive, they often become a burden to farmers as cows are sacred and its killing is punishable by law in Nepal. These old animals are bought and reared at the Cow Rescue Centre with regular examination by a veterinarian. After their natural death, these animals are fed to vultures, thus providing them with food free of diclofenac. A viewing house (hide) is ideally placed to observe the vultures while they feed without disturbing them. Visitors can enjoy the acrobatics performed by vultures in the area. Even though most people would think this feeding to be quite macabre, it seems to attract a considerable number of people, and has given a certain boost to tourism. Records show that from Dec ‘07 to Dec ‘08, 100 foreigners and 400 internal tourists have visited this site. Vulture restaurants provide a supplementary source of food that is free of con-
tamination from veterinary drugs, poison and agricultural chemicals. They provide extra food close to breeding colonies, which helps to increase vulture breeding success by improving the survival chances of young vultures. They also raise public awareness on vulture conservation and provide an excellent opportunity for ecotourism and photographers to see these stately birds. The Visitor Centre provides information on diverse aspects of these majestic creatures and the conservation efforts carried to safeguard them. The income generated is used to manage the restaurant, Visitor Centre and for activities that support the livelihood of local
communities. A community managed vulture restaurant is an innovative idea of BCN and now replication of this model is in final phase in Pakistan as well as India. Currently there are three vulture restaurants; the one in Nawalparasi being the first community-managed vulture restaurant in the world. The other two have been recently introduced bearing in mind the social, ecological and economic benefits of the restaurant. The Jatayu restaurant Pithauli lies in two VDCs (Pithouli and Kawasoti) of Nawalparasi district, adjacent to the buffer zone of Chitwan National Park. In Lumbini, it lies inside Gaidatal Community Forest of Bishnupura VDC, in Rupandehi district. There is another Jatayu Restaurant in Lalmatiya, Dang, which is situated in Kalika Community Forest. Apart from vulture restaurants, Vulture Conservation Breeding Centre, a captive breeding center has been established to safeguard healthy birds from the wild for breeding, conservation and future release. A breeding centre is a place where young birds are reared in closed aviaries until they mature fully. At present, one exemplary vulture breeding centre which has 14 white rumped vultures has been established at Kasara, Chitwan. There are two smaller aviar-
ies while a new and sophisticated aviary with wider space has recently been completed. Capture of further 30 white rumped vulture chicks this year has brought the total number of vultures to 44. Understanding the usefulness of these majestic creatures, many efforts have been commenced to safeguard their existence in nature. Meloxicam, a safer alternative is an effective replacement for veterinary Diclofenac, which has been banned by both the Nepalese and the Indian governments. Similarly, studies of population trends, colonies and breeding of all vulture species in Nepal are being carried out. Besides, the restaurants, several sites in Kailali, Dang, Palpa and west Nawalparasi also provide safe food for vultures. Awareness raising activities targeting various groups such as veterinarians, pharmacists, school children, government agencies, conservation partner and local communities are being organized regularly. Vultures are an integral part of nature. Even though they may seem ungainly and downright scary, they carry out their purpose in life with dignity and help the world in their own way. The regal vulture should be conserved, and more importantly, given due respect and recognition as the sovereign of the birds that it is.
Understanding the usefulness of these majestic creatures, many efforts have been commenced to safeguard their existence in nature. Where are the Jatayu Restaurants located ? ToDang
Lumbini,Rupendehi East-west highway
Jatayu Restaurant Gaidahawa Lake
To Taulihawa To Bhairahawa
r
ti aso
zaa
Ba
To Narayangarh
w Ka To
Nawalparasi
To Butwal Jatayu Restaruant
Lalmatiya, Dang To Lamahi Jatayu Restaruant Lalmatiya
Note: Bird Conservation Nepal (BCN) is an oldest and largest organization dedicated for the continued survival and conservation of birds and their natural habitat. With the help from national and international partners, BCN has been spearheading vulture conservation efforts in Nepal since 2000.
To Butwal Eest Wast High
JULY ULY 2200 2009 0099 69 9 TIMES TI T IME ES JU
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS&BARS 365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 2110800 Speciality: Arabian Baryo Fiesta Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4414395 Speciality: Tandoori, Taas Bhumi The Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4412193 Speciality: Newari Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Restaurant Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4721939 Speciality: Various Veg Tastes Bourbon Room Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental Cafereena Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4231313 Speciality: Thai, Multi Café de Patan Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 Speciality: Newari Foods Cherry Lounge & Bar Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Mob: 9741 115143 Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks Chopstick Restaurant & Bar Buddhabari, Teku, Kathmandu Tel: 4104503 Speciality: Chinese Cuisine Chez Caroline Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070
Speciality: French Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Indian Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Bouddha, Kathmandu Tel: 2140277 Speciality: Chinese Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Nepali, Continental Hot Breads New Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Confectionery Holiday Karaoke Restaurant & Bar Pani Pokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4445731 Speciality: South, East, Asian K-Too Bear & Steak House Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Thai Koto Restaurant Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine Lakhe Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4256606 Speciality: Lebanese, French, Italian Layaku Restaurant Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Multi
Matsuri Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4229032 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese Mike’s Breakfast Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tel: 4414383 Speciality: Organic Foods OR2K Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4422097 Speciality: Israeli, Arabian Road House Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5520524 Speciality: Italian Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 01-6914930 Speciality: Australian Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-230890 Speciality: Indian, Continental Royal Thai Restaurant New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai Rum Doodle Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4701107 Speciality: Steak & Pizza Sandwich Center Tridevi Marg, Lalitpur Tel: 4426267 Speciality: Sandwich
Tian RuI
The Ambiance Restaurant & Bar
MANGAL BAZAR, LALITPUR TEL: 5538980 SPECIALITY: MULTI
Restaurannt Bar THAPATHLAI, KATHMANDU SPECIALITY: CHINESE
LA ROTISSERIE GRILLED CHICKEN & SANDWICH & ICE CREAM PARLOR
COPA CABANA` It is an European style of cooking system, which stops the spit for a period of 20 seconds in front of heating element every 180 degrees. It allows meat to constantly baste itself, sealing in natural juices while letting fat drip off. The Rotisserie offer delicious, low-cholesterol, healthy grilled chicken and many more to all of valued customers...
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KU KUPONDOLE LE 98 28 9841333628 SPECIALITY: Quesadilla | Honey Giazed Pork Drunken Chicken Breast | Deep Fried Ice Cream
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TRAVELTIMESREVIEW
EYE TRAVELER Into the Wild (2007) A superb cast of Emile Hirsch, Vince Vaughn, Catherine Keener and an even-handed treatment of a true story Into the Wild, is Sean Penn’s screen adaptation of Jon Krakauer’s bestselling book. Emile Hirsch stars as Christopher McCandless, from of a prosperous family who, after graduating from University, decides to throw it all and become a vagabond in search of “ultimate freedom.” After donating his substantial savings account to charity and literally torching the rest of his cash, McCandless changes his name, abandons his family, and hits the road. For the next two years he lives the life of a vagrant, working odd jobs, kayaking through the Grand Canyon into Mexico, landing on L.A.’s Skid Row, and turning his back on everyone who tried to befriends him. But when the harsh realities of life in the wilderness set in, he finds himself well out of his depth, not just ill-prepared for the rigors of day to day survival but realizing the importance of the very thing he wanted to escape, human relationships. What happened to him on the way transformed this young wanderer into an enduring symbol for countless people -- a fearless risk-taker who wrestled with the precarious balance between man and nature. Well this eye traveler will rate this movie as one of the greatest travel movies of all times and a must watch giving it a rating of four stars.
EAR TRAVELER Keane: Hopes and Fears Keane’s debut album “Hopes and Fears” went straight in at No.1 in the UK at its release, and has since gone almost triple-platinum. Not an exception, this ear-traveler loved it from the first time he heard it. Instead of guitar, the simple piano’s tinkle is omnipresent in this entire album, and is successful at setting out what it intend to achieve; to deliver brilliant and emotional music. The tunes soar to the heavens in a mix of melancholy lyricism and innocent desire. Songs like “Somewhere Only We Know” “Bend and Break” and “She Has No Time” among others are the best this album has to offer. This album is filled of songs that one cannot stop listening to. With such beautiful melody and breathtaking vocals in their debut album, the band creates a true classic. This is a work of pure genius and will no doubt be loved by music enthusiast all over.
MIND TRAVELER Playing for Pizza, John Grisham It seems that our favorite law writer Mr. Grisham has fallen in love with all things Italian. After setting his last book, ‘The Broker’ in Bologna, the master craftsman is back to Italy with his 2008 released ‘Playing for Pizza’. The story is primarily about a washed up quarterback sacked from the Cleveland Browns, who after squandering a professional football career is in Parma to play for the local outfit the Panthers. But the master craftsman has treated the reader to pages filled with detailed information about Parma’s food, culture, architecture, churches, castles and civic buildings that carry away the reader to the heart of the Italian region of Emilla-Romagna. Although somewhat predictable in parts, the book is a pleasant read, even for someone who cannot understand, nor has any interest in American Football. It is not a book for the slightly overweights, for the long descriptions of ham and cheese will drive you bananas. Although Playing for Pizza, isn’t the most exciting or groundbreaking Grisham out there, but will appeal to his legions of loyal fans. The book does have its share of poignant, humorous and moving moments. Finally, from the mind traveler’s perspective an excellent view of the Italian countryside, its food and a sneak peak at its culture as well. This mind traveler enjoyed it and hopes that many others will too.
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ATALEOFVAGABOND
BROOKE VS. THE WORLD An epic love story of a girl and her backpack. By Eric Daams
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BROOKE SCHOENMAN Birthday: Hometown: Interests:
May 29, 1983 East Peoria, Illinois Guitar, Song-writing, Crafting, Creating, Traveling the world - its a work in progress. Colleges: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign ‘05,International Studies University of Georgia ‘04, GLOBIS study abroad in Verona, Italy High School: East Peoria High School ‘01 Employer: Elabs (English/Math/Science Tutor) March 2009 - May 2009 Location: Sydney, Australia Employer: American English Center (English Teacher) November 2008 - February 2009 Location: Kiev, Ukraine Employer: Volt Information Sciences (IT Analyst) 2006 - September 2007 Location: East Peoria, IL Countries visited: Spain, Guatemala, Mexico, Honduras, Poland, Ukraine, Kyrgyzstan, United States, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Hungary, Australia, New Zealand.
I’ve slept in a yurt in a country people don’t even know exists (Kyrgyzstan), drank vodka to stay warm during my winter in Ukraine, and felt the earth move in Guatemala.
Whatever people might say, this ISN’T a small world. Ask any experienced traveler. Better yet, ask Brooke Schoenman, who at the mere age of 25 is bent on circumnavigating the world and is already halfway there. On her first trip overseas to Italy in 2000, she made a promise to spend her life experiencing cultures other than her own and now nine years later she is still keeping that promise. “My plans over the past couple years have changed quite a bit. This is not a bad thing, and I actually quite enjoy the opportunities that have come about because of the flexibility” says Brooke. According to her, the journey is going to be done in phases, either until she a) runs out of money, b) finishes the journey, or c) figures out what she wants to do with her life.
Travel Itinerary
Talking to her about her travels and hearing about her varied experiences is always an eye-opener. Brooke enthusiastically tells us, “I have done many things, including traveling to 13 different countries. I’ve studied Spanish, studied Russian, taught English, and worked as an archaeologist. I’ve slept in a yurt in a country people don’t even know exists (Kyrgyzstan), drank vodka to stay warm during my winter in Ukraine, and felt the earth move in Guatemala. I love traveling, and am always trying to figure out where I will go next.”
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Eric Daams, editor of TravelBlogs.com, caught up with Brooke to learn more about her experiences in Eastern Europe and Central Asia as a solo traveler. Why do you like to travel? What made so enthusiastic about traveling around the world? It’s invigorating, insightful, interesting... any other “I” words? (Laughs) Besides, the usual answer is that it helps to understand how the world works in a very global time. I would have to say that, on a personal level, it makes you see life differently. Besides being the type of person who feels that anyone can do anything if they want it bad enough, I decided to stop talking about how amazing traveling the world would be and just do it! Travel has always been a passion for me. Even way back in family roadtrip days, my suitcase was packed at least a week in anticipation. Something about the feel of a new place and a taste for adventure fueled me even as a child. Traveling the world was only natural.
You have traveled to Poland, Ukraine and even Kyrgyzstan. What attracted you to those parts of the world? My attraction probably stems from a combination of wanting to learn the Russian language, regretting never signing up for Peace
Corps, and truly wanting to live in a place for some time with a culture extremely different from my own. I decided that I wanted to travel, but I also wanted to make sure I was going to countries that I would be less likely to just take a quick vacation to down the road. As I was researching for my big around-the-world trip, I became more and more interested in Central Asia, so I decided that was where I needed to go. Poland and Ukraine fell into place after that.
What have been some of the challenges of traveling solo? Well for starters dealing with language barriers has been quite the struggle. When you are traveling with someone else, he/she is there to help communicate, or at least share in that moment of stress when you can’t find your hostel, or get the taxi driver to go the right direction. This has sometimes left me feeling like I was “on the outside” until getting adjusted to a city. In the same light, I have to sometimes work a bit harder to find evening activities. Being a girl that too traveling solo, I feel like I have to be a little bit more on guard while going out at night to clubs, bars, or even for a walk for it could
put me in a stressful situation. Luckily, I have been able to find other solo travelers in my hostels to befriend.
Any advice you’d like to give solo travelers? Be open. As a solo traveler you have an amazing opportunity to do what you want, when you want. Traveling opens up so many chances for adventure, so by making yourself available, you will have an unforgettable time with new friends and experiences!
How do you decide how long to stay in one location before moving on? How much of your trip was pre-planned? I leave when it just feels right to do so. I wish I could give an answer, but it really just depends on the place and my mood. Ukraine was a place that was not making me happy, so I felt it necessary to leave. I mean, why do something that doesn’t make you happy when you can change it, right? As for planning, I don’t do as much as I used to. It is probably good to have a rough idea of places to see, but nothing set in stone (laughs again).
Travel has not made me dislike my own culture, or truly love another one. It has merely made me appreciate the positives of my own, and others a bit more.
Mujer Pajaro - Macaw Mountain Bird Sanctuary in Copan, Honduras
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I also took up a part-time job, scored essays from home, sold my car, gave up cable TV (but not Internet!), and recycled, all of which added a substantial amount to the travel fund.
Brooke with coconut - Flores, Guatemala
Any favorite experiences you can share with us? I think living with a Kyrgyz host family was amazing. Even though it was probably one of the toughest things I have ever done, those seven weeks were an insightful look at a culture that not too many people know about.
How much has experiencing other cultures shaped your view of your own culture? When I returned home from studying abroad in Italy during college, I visited my academic advisor. He immediately said he could tell I had spent some time in that country because I seemed so laid-back and go-with-the-flow. I loved that about the Italian culture - the opposite of our hustle and bustle culture in America. At the same time, I really appreciated the fact I normally lived in a culture with get-all-you-need superstores and 24-hour food joints in every town. Was that more important to me than an intense sense of family and month-long vacations? Not necessarily. If anything, travel has not made me dislike my own culture, or truly love another one. It has merely made me appreciate the positives of my own, and others a bit more.
How do you afford your travels? Since I was already planning on doing a long around-the-world trip, I had quite a bit of money saved up to pay for my cur-
rent travels. I became a bit obsessed with the idea of long-term travel and so I set my sights high and let my slightly OCD-ish nature take over. I had a fairly decent job, and all my extra money went partly into music CDs but mostly into various bank accounts. I also took up a part-time job, scored essays from home, sold my car, gave up cable TV (but not Internet!), and recycled, all of which added a substantial amount to the travel fund.
What is your next destination?
As you can probably tell, I did go a little crazy during this process, but in just about 14 months time I had a very rewarding amount of money in the bank. It was not easy, but now I can honestly say that every new experience I have on the road makes any of these former saving struggles worthwhile. The fact that I had a goal and was able to follow through with it until the end is gratifying enough in itself.
Too expensive probably - You’d be surprised by what you can do if you put your mind to it.
What do you recommend for traveling on a budget? Keep a money journal. I know it sounds tedious, but you’d be surprised at how easy it is to lose track of spending on the road. Those quick stops for a gelato or a beer sneakily start to add up. If you keep a journal, you can have a better idea of where the money is going and adjust accordingly. Also, just because you are on a budget doesn’t mean you should forget to have fun. Sometimes splurging is necessary… After all, why be in a place if you can’t really experience it?
I have no idea. Any suggestions? (Laughs)
Why do you think around-the-world trips are better than a regular vacation? To tell you the truth I believe packaged vacations are expensive and superficial... you need time to examine the lifestyle and LIVE it.
What is the biggest myth that people have about around-the-world traveling?
What is your advice for people planning their own round the world trip? GO! Make a plan and do it!
Brooke is now in New Zealand, after spending four months in Australia on route her world trip. For more details on Brook log on to her website http://www.brookevstheworld.com
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PERFECTTAKEAWAYS
SOUVENIR SHOPPING I
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The mere mention of the word shopping can surely put a smile on every person’s face, but souvenir shopping is a whole different ball game. By Utsav Shakya
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In older days in Nepal, when a person went to visit his out of town relatives, he usually took along with him, a gift that was unique to his town. The gift could be anything from fruits and local delicacies to artifacts and fabric. The same idea applied when the person visited another country. The general idea was to take something that was unique from your surroundings for a friend or a relative who perhaps did not have easy access to such items. Such customs are common in all societies; the gifts varying with the norms in each society. In Nepal, this tradition is called ‘koseli’; something which still exists today. A koseli therefore comes the closest to describing a souvenir. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world and has problems of acute shortages of every kind. But owing to geographical and historical ties that Nepal shares with India and China, the country has an advantage of being influenced by the cultures of both of its neighbors. This makes Nepal a rich melting pot for gift items ranging from Tibetan carpets and Thangka paintings to unique fabrics such as Pashmina and artifacts that richly depict the influence of the
mentioned cultures. The mere mention of the word shopping can surely put a smile on every person’s face, but souvenir shopping is a whole different ball game. For one, you have to consider the fact that you are not buying for yourself. So choosing something you like is not the agenda here. You have to put in mind the sensibilities of the person you are buying the gift for. Secondly, what you are looking for is not just any good deal. You need to be on the lookout for a gift that represents where you have been, so you might want to strike off something like a baseball cap or a DVD from your list of options. Thirdly, make your gift personal. Buying a souvenir is first and foremost about the fact that you care enough to spend time and money on getting something special for a person. A random buy is distasteful and shows neglect. There is a huge variety of souvenirs for tourists to choose from and even for locals who want to buy something for family and friends abroad. Some amongst these varied choices stand out for the unique ways in which they represent Nepal and its culture.
The general idea was to take something that was unique from your surroundings for a friend or a relative who perhaps did not have easy access to such items. Such customs are common in all societies; the gifts varying with the norms in each society. In Nepal, this tradition is called ‘koseli’; something which still exists today. A koseli therefore comes the closest to describing a souvenir.
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CARPETS Walk into any living room in urban Nepal and chances are you will see a beautiful carpet laid out across the floor, drawing attention as much for its vibrant use of colors as for its use of symbols borrowed from both Nepalese and Tibetan culture. Besides their visual appeal, these carpets also have a bit of history attached to them that might make you want to consider them. The carpet making tradition entered Nepal only in 1959 along with around 15,000 Tibetan refugees who fled to the country. The Tibetan-Nepalese carpet making industry started with this group of Tibetan weavers and remained small up until it was revealed to the west and flourished in the years that followed. In 1961, the Swiss-organized ‘Jawalakhel Handicraft Center’ was formed and
soon became the focus of carpet making in Nepal. The master weavers from Gyantse, the best carpet making area of central Tibet, who settled in Nepal eventually, taught their skills to others resulting in an increase in production of better carpets. The hand spun wool, high quality dyes and Tibetan designs produced carpets that would soon grow into a major industry in the country. The Swiss helped again in marketing by generating a market in Europe and promoting the art there as well as establishing a system of design with graph paper to produce uniformity. The carpet weaving industry spread around Nepal where Tibetan refugees had settled, especially inside the Kathmandu Valley. By mid 1970, the business was firmly established and continues to grow today. Nepali carpets have a distinct luster similar
to the Tibetan carpets because of unique knotting style and different quality of wool. They resemble Persian carpets but at the same time are much more affordable. The wool used to make Nepali carpets is the best imaginable for carpet weaving. It is highly resilient, tough and flexible. The carpet is springy to walk on and is soft to touch because of the use of lanolin. Its appearance is particularly pleasing, with a soft glow that comes from its high content of lustrous hair. Adding to the charms of an exotic looking carpet might be that these carpets are mostly hand woven. Although previously, countries like Germany had stopped the import of these carpets due to the use of child labor, children are no longer employed in carpet making, hence, allowing you to buy a carpet completely guilt free!
Nepali carpets have a distinct luster similar to the Tibetan carpets because of unique knotting style and different quality of wool.
THANGKA PAINTINGS For a lighter alternative to the carpets, but one which is nonetheless as artful and culturally rich, a Thangka painting might be perfect. Religious paintings worshipped as icons are known as Paubha in Newari and Thanka / Thangka in Tibetan. The origin of Paubha or Thangka paintings may be attributed to the Nepalese artists responsible for creating a number of special metal works and wallpaintings as well as illuminated manuscripts in Tibet. Realizing the great demand for religious icons in Tibet, these artists, along with monks and traders, took with them from Nepal not only metal sculptures but also a number of Buddhist manuscripts. To better fulfil the ever increasing demand, Nepalese artists initiated a new type of religious painting on cloth that could be easily rolled up and carried along with them. This type of painting became very popular both in Nepal and Tibet. A new school of Thangka painting thus evolved as early as the ninth or tenth century and has remained popular to this day. 86 JULY 2009
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From the 15th century onwards, brighter colors gradually began to appear in Nepalese Thangka paintings. Because of the growing importance of the Tantric cult, various aspects of Shiva and Shakti were painted in conventional poses. Mahakala, Manjushri, Lokeshvara and other deities were equally popular and so were also frequently represented in Thangka paintings of later dates. As ‘Tantricism’ embodies the ideas of esoteric power, magic forces, and a great variety of symbols, strong emphasis is laid on the female element and sexuality in the paintings of that period. All of these complex elements that make up Thangka art add to its richness and make the perfect souvenir.
PASHMINA One of the best known and widely produced weavings in Nepal is Pashmina. There is no evidence that reveals when its production and use began. “Pashm” means wool in the Persian language. Cashmere was derived from the shawls sold in Kashmir to the West of Nepal. But the weavers in Kashmir made the shawl while the people from the mountain region of Nepal sold them the wool they needed. The same wool was used to make Pashmina in Nepal. This wool is taken from a species of goat, Capra hircus, which is found in Central Asia and along the Himalayan region. Pashmina is very popular in Nepal for a lot of reasons. The winters in Nepal can get pretty chilly, so a warm shawl is always ‘in’ for women of all ages. Also, because of the
high quality wool, Pashmina is very light and therefore easy to carry around if you want to travel light. The market for Pashmina is huge in the west where it is sold in the form of sweaters, stoles and even caps. But because it is made in the region, buying Pashmina in Nepal makes sense because you can get it at a little over the factory price.
The winters in Nepal can get pretty chilly, so a warm shawl is always ‘in’ for women of all ages.
TREKKING EQUIPMENTS Nepal is blessed with breath taking Himalayas on its northern borders. Every year a large number of tourists enter Nepal through Kathmandu for one thing- climbing the Himalayas or at least for a bit of hiking. Home to the tallest peaks in the world, tourism is the second largest source of revenue for the country; the trekking sector alone employing hundreds of locals as guides and porters. So it is but natural that the streets of Kathmandu, especially Thamel are teeming with stores that are stocked up with everything you need for trekking. From international brands such as The North Face and Timberland to knock-offs of the same that you can buy for a tenth of the price, there are good deals to strike if you know where to look and what you want. Each trekking gear is aimed at safety and protection, making it a good choice for a gift for a friend. So if you want to buy trekking equipment at a range of prices, you know
exactly where to look for them. Many shops also have lots of second hand trekking equipment in good condition which - if you can get over the fact that they have been used by someone else before- is practically a steal. The off season might be a great time to shop for trekking equipment as shops put their stocks on sale to make room for next year’s designs. So if you are into trekking or have that cousin who is interested, trekking equipment can be a great investment.
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BEADS Beads are very popular in Kathmandu valley for a range of purposes too. From a religious point of view, Rudrakshya beads are immensely popular as they are meant to bring good health and luck in every endeavor besides supposedly having a host of other special powers. The Rudraksha is a large evergreen broad-leaved tree which grows in the area stretching from the Gangetic Plains to the foothills of the Himalayas. Rudraksha beads also make up rosaries (108 beads in number). Besides Rudrakshya, other beads made out of marble, wood, animal bones and horns are also very popular. These beads are arranged creatively making for some interesting designs that are favorites of the youth in Nepal. Cheap and light weight, beads make for perfect low budget gifts that you can present to your friends as souvenirs.
For starters, do not start with a very low bid. This would simply insult the shopkeeper and would probably just get him in no mood to make any reductions in price. The listed souvenirs however are just a few of the many amazing items that you can buy in Nepal. Walking along the tourist district of Thamel, in Kathmandu, you are going to be bombarded with a huge variety of choices. Amongst them, the traditional Nepali weapon of war, the Khukuri which was made popular by the Gurkhas is a solid investment too. Masks made out of bone powder are available too, ranging from faces of the Buddha to some interesting elongated faces which are sure to make great conversation starters. Metal and stone images are another favorite amongst tourists who find fine work at fractions of the price they cost abroad since they are made locally. Souvenir shopping in Nepal would not be complete without mentioning the lost art of haggling. As shops around the world put up that odd “Fixed Price� signs on their windows, the streets of Thamel are yet to catch up on that trend. Bargaining is an acquired skill here and if you follow some simple rules, you can 88 JULY 2009
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save a tidy sum. For starters, do not start with a very low bid. This would simply insult the shopkeeper and would probably just get him in no mood to make any reduction in price. Secondly, get an idea beforehand about the price range of the items you are trying to buying so that you know how high and low prices can go. Thirdly, and this also goes for most situations in life, treat the shopkeepers as you would like to be treated if you were a shopkeeper. Smile at them, crack a joke and let them know that they are doing you a favor, instead of being gruff and behaving like your purchase of a pair of shoes is what keeps their business alive. But at the same time, also remember that you are bargaining in one of the poorest countries of the world. When you are sure that you are getting a good deal, pay up instead of trying to cheat a hardworking man of a little well-earned profit by bargaining just to see how low he can go. Due to a bad economy, shopkeepers are forced to sell with a minimal margin and sometimes even at a loss, just to get by. Be considerate. But above all, have fun!
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FLASHBACK
YAKA BHUJYA The Day Women Descend On the Streets
By Utsav Shakya
The Rato Matsyendranath festival: a celebration that mixes religion, culture and everyday life into a heady concoction might as well be famous for something other than just that primal screaming sounds from women of all ages as they pull the famous chariot on the ‘yaka bhujya’ day of the festival. For a moment, this scribe was reminded of maternity wards in hospitals! Armies of women of all ages fill the streets. Some in comfortable kurta salwars or jeans and others in bright, red saris tucked tightly into their hips tug at the towering chariot, their sneaker adorned or sometimes bare feet digging into the earth as they heave at the chariot of god, demonstrating a freakish strength. Whoever said women are only emotionally strong has not witnessed this Nepali tradition that shows a whole other side of women. During the Rato Matsyendranath festival, each community has its own chhwela bu, naika luigu, bhujya and yaka bhujya rituals when the chariot reaches their locality. The ‘bhujya’ ritual of the festival is celebrated after the ‘naika luigu’ ritual; the former marks the arrival of the chariot into their neighborhood and is celebrated with family gatherings and feasts. While men pull the chariot through the neighborhood on the day of the bhujya, it is the turn of the women of the neighborhood to have a go at the chariot the next day. Yaka bhujya was originally intended as the pulling of the chariot by widows, as these families did not have male members to participate in the tradition. Yaka in Newari language means alone. With time however, these women were joined by pretty much all interested female members of the community, in pulling the chariot to its next destination. The more the merrier is the unspoken rule at this event. The entire Rato Matsyendranath festival, which ends with the popular Bhoto Jatra festival in Jawalakhel of Kathmandu, is one festival no tourist should miss.
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EVENTS&TIPS SAHARA MAITRI SAMUHA WHEN: Every Saturday DESCRIPTION: Free classes every Saturday to learn about Reiki, Yoga, Meditation, and Healthy Life Styles CONTACT: 9841394315/ 9841393760
OEDIPUS WHEN: : July 04 – Aug 01, 2009 WHERE: Gurukul DESCRIPTION: Translated and directed by Sunil Pokharel, the 2500 year old Greek play Oedipus by Sophocle is ready to be staged. Renowned actors like Saugat Malla, Aruna Karki, Bishnu Bhakta Phuyal will be playing lead characters in the play. CONTACT: 4466956, 2101332
EXCLUSIVE WORKING WOMEN’S WEEKEND WHEN: July 24, 2009 WHERE: Fulbari Resort & Spa, Pokhara DESCRIPTION: Yeti Travels initiative exclusively for working women. Sightseeing in & around Pokhara, away from the hassle of everyday life for 2 nights and 3 days. Contact: 4224740
HEALTH & FITNESS EXPO 2009 - KATHMANDU DISTRICT, KATHMANDU
CHISO CHISO HAWAMA
WHEN: Monday-Friday 09001000hrs WHERE: Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre Keshar Mahal Marg, Thamel. DESCRIPTION: Qualified yogic and naturopathy practitioner Dr. Manoj Kumar Acharya will lead you to a better and healthier life. CONTACT: 4410402
WHERE: Club Himalaya Nagarkot DESCRIPTION: This is a special package to get away from all the pressures of work in the ever crowded city and indulge yourself in the beautiful ambience, luscious food and 5 star service of Club Himalaya Nagarkot CONTACT: 4410432, 4414432, 4442726
BUDDHIST MEDITATION,
TGIF PARTY
WHEN: Monday-Friday 17001800hrs WHERE: Himalayan Vegetarian Garden Café. HBMC, Keshar Mahal Marg, Thamel. DESCRIPTION: Enjoy the tranquility and soothing effect of Buddhist Meditation along with Buddhist Films and a complete library CONTACT: 4410402
WHEN: Every Friday 8 pm onwards WHERE: Jazzabell Cafe DESCRIPTION: Live Band Epic playing English, Hindi and Nepali dance numbers CONTACT: 2114075
WHEN: August 06, 2009 WHERE:Direction Exhibition & Convention Center, Kathmandu DESCRIPTION: Health & Fitness Expo, taking place from 6 to 9 August 2009, will be focusing on promoting a positive attitude toward health care, by promoting healthy lifestyle choices
HAPPY COCKTAIL HOUR
CHARITY QUIZ WHEN: Every other Thursdays, 18:30 pm onwards WHERE: Bottles “n” Chimney, Near Narsingh Chowk, Thamel DESCRIPTION: Organized by the Umbrella Foundation (Orphanage Home CONTACT: 9851046604/2123135
WHEN: Everyday 5 to 7 pm WHERE: Jatra cafe and bar DESCRIPTION: BUY ONE COCKTAIL AND GET ONE ABSOLUTELY FREE. THERE IS AN ADDITIONAL 10% OFF ON BEERS FROM 2-5PM WITH FREE WIFI. LADIES NIGHT EVERY WEDNESDAY WITH UNPLUGGED MUSIC AND ONE FREE COCKTAIL. CONTACT: 4256622
To enlist your events in this section mail us your details at events@traveltimes-mag.com
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PHEWA TAAL KO ANGAN MA PACKAGE WHERE: Hotel Trek-O-Tel, Pokhara DESCRIPTION: Get away from all the hustle and bustle of city life and enjoy the cool calming evening at lakeside at Rs. 1800 (exclusive of taxes) for couple. Rate includes one night accommodation and breakfast CONTACT: 4410432, 4414432
MONSOON MADNESS PACKAGE
PEANUTS WHEN: Every Thursday, 1900 hrs onwards WHERE: Bottles “n” Chimney, Near Narsingh Chowk, Thamel DESCRIPTION: Quite possibly the only place in Kathmandu where littering is actually encouraged. CONTACT: 9851046604/2123135
YOGA FOR HOLISTIC HEALTH
WHEN: July 1- July 18 WHERE: Shangri~La Village Resort, Pokhara DESCRIPTION: Spend NRs 6999/- and get back coupons worth NRs 5000/- which you can spend on any of the hotel facilities. CONTACT: 4435741- 44
EXHIBITION OF AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL THANGKA ART WHEN: Everyday 5 to 7 pm WHERE: Pathibhara Art Gallery, Thamel DESCRIPTION: An exhibition of Authentic Traditional Thangka Art by prominent artist Nabin Krishna Chitrakar, Gyalze Sherpa, Dondhop and Rrguyen Tsering CONTACT: 4256004 /9841418871/9851026064
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