MAR - APR 2010
www.traveltimes-mag.com
NPR 150 | US$ 4 | INR 100
TIMES AFFILIATED TO NEPAL TOURISM BOARD
yourtravelcompanion
Kathmandu’s world heritage sites give great reasons for tourists to linger on and savor old world kathmandu charm.
TSUM VALLEY sagarmatha national park
paragliding
bisket jatra
on Adventure Intro
on Festival Watch
70
88
on Travelogue
24
8 | editorial
www.nextyatra.com
Editorial Dear Readers,
Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal CDO Regd No : 63/065/66 Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 Fax: +977 1 553 6733 E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com editorial team Chairman Deepak Bhatta Managing Director / Editor A. R. Tandukar Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri Asst. Marketing Manager vishal j. rana Copy Editor Utsav Shakya Inhouse Writer Prita Malla Content Development Officer gaurav kandel Photographer Suresh Maharjan Advisors A. Das gupta Sushil Bhatta Upendra Hirawat Abhishek Anand Deepak Jain Partners China Southern Airlines Gorkha Travels Craft Garden Dakshinkali Hill Resort nextyatra.com eticketnepal.com Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468 Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations, photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher and the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments, suggestions or ideas for improvements at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by sending their stories along with relevant pictures and contact address at articles@traveltimes-mag.com Advertisers are requested to enquire through marketing@traveltimes-mag.com Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to send their news and events at news@traveltimes-mag.com ** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion Reserve your subscription today. Contact at subscription@traveltimes-mag.com
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Fuel shortages, crippling load shedding, traffic jams… why do we love Kathmandu again? For our cover story this issue, we decided to go back to the things we still love about the valley. Yes, we left out the mo: mo places and your favorite hangouts – perhaps for a later issue. The seven World Heritage Sites that we have covered here are pretty amazing too, for similar and different reasons. All of these spots showcase different kinds of art and architecture and have different things to offer while they all share a similar heritage, our heritage of art and architecture and culture. As the country goes through troubled times, perhaps we need to focus on the latter, what makes us similar and not what small things divide us.
Also on the World Heritage Site list but from a different part of the world is the amazing Petra. Paragliding is as close to flying as can be possible - at least for now and after looking at some amazing aerial pictures, you might like us want to get up and go paraglide! Read on also about Sagarmatha National Park – a natural heritage site. As spring arrives and we stack away our winter wear, it’s time to hit the outdoors and check out some of the heritage sites on your own. Happy Travelling.
The Editorial Team Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
www.nextyatra.com
| 9
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
10 | contents
www.nextyatra.com
Contents Cover Story
want to write for travel times?
Kathmandu’s World Heritage Sites
Send us your travel articles or ideas at articles@traveltimes-mag.com
Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with seven of the ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the valley. Read on to find out what makes these sites so special.
FOODRINK Samay Baji Fondly called the ‘food of the gods’, Samay Baji is a Newar gastronomical delight.
66 Travelogue A journey to Sagarmatha National Park
30
Our resident doctor writes about a journey to the spectacular Sagarmatha National Park, home to some of the highest mountains on Earth.
Global Treasure
hotels and casinos Dwarika’s Hotel
Petra The Rose Red City is designed to strike wonder into the hearts of all those that entered it.
78
84
88
Made famous by the Gurkhas, find out what makes a Khukuri a great souvenir.
60 Adventure intro Paragliding Need wings to fly away? Paragliding makes it possible!
Khukuri
bisket jatra A beautiful disaster.
Borne out of a noble effort to preserve Newar architecture, Dwarika’s Hotel deserves all the accolades it has gathered and more.
Perfect takeaways
Festival Watch
24
70
Start traveling....with Travel Times 12 Travel News
74 Holiday Destination
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.
20 Recreation
Small but beautiful, Hongkong is packed with all types of action.
56 Health Times
Holi Raft What better way to get wet for Holi than facing some Nepali rapids!
MAR - APR 2010
Hongkong
TIMES
Staying Healthy in Kathmandu Get ready for Kathmandu with this useful guide on staying safe in the city.
64 Recommended Restaurants A guide to the most happening restaurants in town.
94 Events and Tips Find out what’s happening around you.
www.nextyatra.com
| 11
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
Travelnews
12
NATIONAL
www.nextyatra.com
“Together for Tourism” flags NEPAL TOURISM YEAR-NTY 2011 The most anticipated and highly expected Tourism campaign of Nepal, Nepal Tourism Year-NTY 2011 was officially launched among a large mass of around 50,000 from different walks of life ranging from national citizens, national and international agencies, political parties, government officials, private sector, tourism stakeholders, ethnic communities, army, armed police, police, scout members, students and journalists to express their commitment for the tourism year long event with the theme of “Together for Tourism” at the premises of Tundikhel in Kathmandu. Led by a unique Nepali cultural troupe with MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
various cultural programs demonstrating tourism related activities and tools the NTY 2011 was launched with the illumination of the peace torch brought from Lumbini by Hon Prime Minister, Madhav Kumar Nepal at Tundikhel amidst a gala festival along with parades from six different place of the valley. Similar gala events are being organized at Biratnagar, Janakpur, Birgunj, Chitwan, Pokhara, Bhairahawa, and Nepalgunj aiming to boost up Nepal’s tourism industry by bringing in one million foreign tourists within the one year event . Yogendra Sakya, National Coordinator
of NTY 2011 briefed and highlighted the framework of the program that political commitment was a must for organizing the event in a successful manner. “With a theme ‘together for tourism’, the event will seek every individual’s commitment to making the NTY 2011 a success,” “It will bring all stakeholders together at a platform to show their firm commitment that they will contribute to making the event a success,” he said while addressing a gathering during the official launching of the event.
www.nextyatra.com
| 13
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
Travelnews
14
Second International airport to take off
Nepal government has awarded the contract for a detailed feasibility study of a second international airport at NijgadhDumarwana of Bara district to Landmark Worldwide Company, Korea. According to Binay B. Rawal, Landmark’s Nepal representative, the feasibility study will start in April and last for 10 months. The company will invest $3.8 million for the detailed feasibility study and design feasibility study. With a total investment of US$ 600 million in the first phase and US$ 1 billion until the final stage, the project is to be operated under the “build, own, operate, transfer” (BOOT) model.
NATIONAL
www.nextyatra.com
Destination Manang 2010 to be organized ture and unique cultural experience.
Destination Manang 2010 campaign is all set to promote tourism and protect its timeless culture and tradition. The main objective of the campaign is to disseminate information about Manang district to travelers seeking an once-in-a-lifetime adven-
The program is set to be formally inaugurated on Baisakh 2nd. Programs like Grand Metha, Grand Yartung, Badhe Festival, Tarkya, Tilicho Lake Festival, Tho (Deer Festival) and Nar and Phu Fam trip have been planned for the festival. This festival will hopefully promote the district as a special travel destination for both domestic and international visitors. The festival is being organized by Tourism Entrepreneurs’ Association of Manang (TEAM) along with a number of other supporters.
Fishtail Air acquires new helicopter AS 350 B3 Helicopter was bought from the South East Asia Eurocopter Company of Singapore.
The proposed new airport will have two parallel runways. As per the design feasibility, the airport will be constructed considering the future forecast growth of passenger traffic.
The Fishtail Air has successfully landed new helicopter at Tribhuvan International Airport. The new addition to its fleet, the
AS 350 B3 can easily land up to 23000 feet and can carry an addition of 1400kg along with 6 passengers. It can even fly in the tempestuous weather of the Himalayas. This has opened the possibility for the flight up to the base camps of the mountains and even above it. Fishtail Air plans to fly the helicopter for Pokhara-Lukla, and Simikot-Kailash Mansarobar flights.
Global Bank and Yeti Airlines for e-ticketing
Soaltee Crowne Plaza has a new GM
Prince Charles raises funds for Sherpa museum
Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza now has a new General Manager, Vini Gupta, who had been working for more two-decades in different hotels in the United States, will be working as the General Manager of Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza. Gupta is the successor to Mr. Greesh Bindra, who has successfully completed his period in office.
More than £14,000 has been raised through the charity Community Action Nepal to preserve one of the last remaining traditional Sherpa homes as a museum. Prince Charles has been appointed the president of the Sherpa Heritage Trust and Sir Chris Bonington, its patron. This traditional home in the centre of Khumjung was built in the 16th century when the Sherpa people entered the country from Tibet.
Global Bank Ltd. (GBL) and Yeti Airlines Domestic Pvt. Ltd. (YADL) have signed an agreement to launch e-ticketing from the month of March. Janak Sharma, Deputy General manager of GBL and Vijay Shrestha, Director of YADL signed the agreement during the program. This e-ticketing is aimed to facilitate travelers and minimize the need to visit travel agencies to buy the ticket. Now general public can easily have access to flights from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Biratnagar, Bhatrapur, Bhairawa, Janakpur, Dhangadi, and Nepalgunj with a click. MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Gupta will soon head to the hotel´s headquarter in Singapore to better understand the work cycle of this chain of Hotels. He will be working towards making Soaltee more attractive for the guests with better packages for its clients. He also ensured that Soaltee will actively participate in providing its hospitality service in Nepal Tourism Year 2011 campaign.
The Prince told Telegraph Travel: “Trekking in Nepal twice, I was struck by the breathtaking beauty of the scenery and the charm of the Nepalese people. I fully appreciate the importance of renovating the Sherpa Heritage House into a living museum so that present and future generations in the Sherpa community can experience their rich and remarkable heritage.” A fundraising trek led by Sir Chris Bonington and Pertemba Sherpa to the grand opening of the Sherpa Heritage House will take place in late October.
www.nextyatra.com
Travelnews
NATIONAL
15
Tallest statue of lord shiva set to launch on 24th May 2010
Gazing at the magnificent 108 ft (approximately 32.9188 m) statue of Lord Shiva at Shanga, Bhaktapur, artisan and sculptor Maturam Verma and the structural Er. Manohar Raj Bhandari along with their team’s seven years of sweat and toil has come to fruition. Kamal Jain, Chairman of Hilltake Industries Private Limited, is the initiator behind this
whole project and has devoted a lot for its completion as he smiles and says that it will be launched on 24th May which is auspicious day for the Bhagwan Sthapana as told by the holy priest to him. Being attached to Hindu Religion and a true devotee of Lord Pashupatinath Jain planned to initiate it. The colossal statue of Lord Shiva is being named as “Kailashnath Mahadev ” which is attired in leopard skin, serpent around his neck carrying a trident in one hand and pellet drum in another. Maturam Verma, who hails from Rajasthan has been involved for this project along with his five assistants from India and with many nepali workers from past seven years. Hilltake Health & Home, adjacent to the statue makes one forget the din and bustle of urban mundanity.
Air arrivals up 33 percent in February for Nepal, bounced back with a remarkable growth of 24.25 percent. The European segment was up 20.6 percent and the number of visitors from the US soared to 53.2 percent.
Tourist arrivals by air in February heaved a massive 33 percent to 33,492 persons compared to the same period last year. Arrivals from South Asia were up 12.1 percent according to the figures released by Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). China, one of the largest markets
This is the ninth consecutive month that Nepal has witnessed a growth in international tourist arrivals, confirming improved prospects for Nepal in 2010 with rising business and consumer confidence. A total of 33,441 foreign tourists departed from TIA in February. The number of Nepali arrivals stood at 49,288 while departures numbered 54,564 during the same period.
100th International Women’s Day marked in Nepal
With the theme “Equal rights, Equal Opportunities: Progress for all”, FTG Nepal, FNCCI-
WEDC, FWEAN and in collaboration of other organizations, International SME’s Business Meet was organized from 8-10thMarch to flourish trade and tourism among South eastern Asian countries. Kathmandu Joint Declaration and skill exchange workshops were also organized among the participating nations during the event. Dr. Kiran Bedi, recipient of Ramon Magsaysay Award gave a keynote speech and also elaborated on the issues of Women while she also inaugurated the SCWEC showroom at Pulchowk managed by FTG Nepal.
news in brief • Homosexual Marriage at the Everest Base Camp Homosexual marriage is being legalized in May this year and Gay marriage at the Everest base camp has been planned. Nepal is observing the “Nepal Tourism Year 2011” and hopes welcoming more gay visitors. • Buddha’s epic Sugata Saurabha launched in English Chittadhar Hridaya, renowned Newari poet’s, 400pages epic Sugata Suarabha has been translated in English and published by Oxford University Press, US which will help readers to know more about Buddha in detail. • Dhulikhel Mahotsav 2066 Observed On the occasion of Harisiddhi Jatra, organized every 12 years, Dhulikhel Mahotsav was observed with large gala events and the inauguration of Arniko’s statue. • Los Angeles gets NTY Hoarding Board Dr. Shankar Sharma, Ambassador to Nepal at US inaugurated the first hoarding board of the NTY 2011 on 8th March near LA 710 Highway which was sponsored by tourism entrepreneur Basudev Ghimire. • Sankhu Mahotsav to be marked on 2nd - 4th April Along with Goddess Vajrayogini’s festival , a unique and not to be missed religious and cultural event, the Sankhu Mahotsav at Sankhu is being inaugurated with various events which will last for three days from 2nd to 4th of April.
To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
Travelnews
16
India, Nepal sign for South Asian connectivity
interNATIONAL
Continental Airlines launches mobile boarding passes
India has taken initiative to ensure connectivity with Nepal after the recent agreement with Bangladesh. A new air services agreement was signed between the two countries during the visit of the President of Nepal, Dr Ram Baran Yadav to India. A Memorandum of Understanding was also signed for railway infrastructure development at five border points along Nepal-India border along with MoU for development of Nepal Bharat Maitri Polytechnic at Hetauda and for establishment of Nepal Bharat Maitri Sabha Griha in Birgunj.
Mobile boarding passes has a two-dimensional bar code along with passenger and flight information, which scanners validate. The technology prevents manipulation or duplication of the boarding passes.
Continental Airlines has announced the expansion of its mobile boarding pass service to London’s Heathrow Airport. This service allows customers to receive boarding passes electronically on their cell phones or PDAs and eliminates the need for paper boarding passes.
New Ice Hotel at Balea Lac, romania Although some might be skeptical, there are thousands of snow-fans who wish to spice up their ski holiday with a bit of the bizarre and can’t wait to sleep in a very posh igloo for a night or two.
Tourists seem to love the several ice hotels that have appeared over the past few years in Japan, Canada, and Sweden. A new addition to this icy series is the Ice Hotel at Balea Lac in Romania.
The Balea Lac Hotel in Romania features ice; walls, decorations, furniture, even glasses are made of ice. Although a newbie on the scene it proudly presents its small yet charming ice church, first of its kind, where occasional masses and more importantly eccentric weddings take place.
Celebration of Chinese lantern Festival at Radisson
The Chinese lantern festival 2010 was celebrated with much anticipation in Hotel Radisson by the China Eastern Airlines. The Chinese ambassador to Nepal Mr. Zheng Xianglin and various people from travel agencies and media were present on the occasion. On February 28th the Chinese Zodiac celebrates the start of a brand MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
Continental was the first carrier to offer paperless boarding passes in the U.S. in a pilot program with the Transportation Security Administration that began in December 2007. The airline currently offers mobile boarding passes at 42 airports, including its hubs in New York, Houston and Cleveland.
Qatar Airways Fleet Size Rises to 80 Aircraft
Qatar Airways celebrated another milestone in its remarkable short history by announcing its fleet size has grown to 80 aircraft – double the size of five years ago. The airline has inducted its 15th Boeing 777 into the fleet and maintains a delivery schedule of more than one new aircraft a month, retaining its status as one of the world’s fastest growing airlines.
new year in its traditional cycle with the Famous Lantern Festival. On the 15th lunar day of the year, the Chinese worship the Heaven Officer of Taoism and pray for luck. To mark the festival the hall was decorated aptly with light lanterns. The event also coincided with the Nepali Holi festival making the celebration even more festive and joyful.
These will serve long haul routes from the airline’s operational hub of Doha, capital of the State of Qatar. Qatar Airways is continuing its expansion strategy with vigor as CEO of Qatar Airways, Akbar Al Baker said “As our fleet increases, we are able to raise capacity on existing services and introduce new routes which is continuing as planned despite the industry facing challenges amid the current global economic climate” .
China Eastern Airlines Co. Ltd (CEA) is one of the biggest airlines of China. Based in Shanghai, CEA has 9 domestic branches and also is the controlling shareholder of China Cargo Airlines, China Eastern Jiangsu Airlines Co., Ltd and China Eastern Wuhan Airlines Co. Ltd.
Qatar Airways currently operates a modern fleet of 80 aircraft to 86 diverse business and leisure destinations across Europe, Middle East, Africa, Asia Pacific, South Asia and North America. Here in Nepal, it has been operating 2 flights a day and will add its 3rd flight from 28th of March.
17
TIMES 09
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
Travelnews
18
interNATIONAL
Asian countries unite for Medical Tourism
IMWell Summit International Summit on Medical Travel, Wellness & Retirement
With the Philippines spearheading the initiative for Asia to be a regional hub for health, wellness and retirement, representatives of different Asian countries including India, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea, Taiwan and Singapore are set to gather in the
International Summit on Medical Travel, Wellness and Retirement (IMWell Summit) on October 12-15, 2010. The IMWell Summit is the first of its kind to present the global state of healthcare, explore current and future opportunities in medical tourism, and map out a strategy for the growth of the entire industry.
Asia Leads Travel Industry’s Recovery; Promising Start To 2010 Year 2010 is off to a good start for Asia’s travel industry following its lead in the global travel market’s recovery. Abacus International, a veteran of the travel industry, revealed that emerging markets and new business practices will underpin growth and set the underlying trends for the year ahead.
Singapore Targets around 12.5 Million Visitor in 2010
The Singapore Tourism Board is targeting 11.5 – 12.5 million visitor arrivals for 2010. 2010 will see the much anticipated opening of World Sentosa and Marina Bay Sands resorts. There will be commencement of new events such as the Asia Fashion Exchange, the Youth Olympic Games and Live! Singapore while its signature events such as the Singtel Singapore Formula One Grand Prix, F1 Rocks and Singapore International Water Week will continue. Collectively, they will enhance Singapore’s stature as a vibrant global city with a distinctive lifestyle that attracts visitors. MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Emerging markets - one of the green shoots seen during the economic crisis - will continue to drive travel bookings up with IndoChina and Central Asia as key growth regions. Several other markets such as Nepal, Bangladesh and South Korea had also contributed to Abacus’ better-thanexpected business results. Asia is expected to enjoy 5.7% GDP growth in 2010, with emerging markets leading the rest of the world out of the downturn.
ITB Berlin now on Your Mobile ITB Berlin is offering its visitors a trade fair guide for mobile and smart-phone users for the second year. The ITB Mobile Guide lets its users navigate their way more easily around the Exhibition Grounds. Besides a map of the grounds, information includes the program of the ITB Convention, a list of events along with press conferences, presentations, receptions, and a function for looking up exhibitors. This clever pocket-sized trade fair companion can be easily downloaded at http://www.itbberlin.de/mobil via an internet landline and itb-berlin.mobi via a mobile phone / smartphone browser or texting.
www.nextyatra.com
Facebook Makes Travel to China Easier Group tours are popular on Mainland China but to decide on the best tour company is the difficult part. The China Guide, a Beijing-based travel company, is offering unique group tours for 2010 and has came up with novel ideas to brand itself as one of the best company among the visitors. In the homepage guest will be acquainted about China Guide’s unique service style. The most useful tool for trip planners however, is the company’s Facebook group where clients have posted their personal experiences and photos of The China Guide’s tours, http:// www.TheChinaGuide.com/facebook Facebook, the fast growing networking site is a great reference tool that potential trip planners can use and trust. The China Guide’s Facebook group is open for all guests to post feedback, comments, trip highlights or ask questions about future travel. The group also has a large selection of photos that have been uploaded by past clients, highlighting their tour in China.
www.nextyatra.com
19
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
recreation
20 |
www.nextyatra.com
Holi Raft A recreational initiation of Yeti Travels
Holi - the festival of colors! The day that people associate the beginning of summer with and ring it in they do by playing with water and smearing each others’ faces with colorful powder. Almost a battle of sorts, a battle with unfair advantage to the offensive party and that leaves not blood in its trails but pollution and wet and harassed bodies. No wonder many people wish they were far away from the madding ground, so to speak, where they can celebrate with loved ones amid laughter in the true spirit of Holi. Yeti Travel and Tours, a creative company that always has innovative and fun ideas to promote Nepal’s natural wonders to the masses, came up with the perfect solution – Holi RAFT.
Text by Yesha Malla MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Holi raft | 21
www.nextyatra.com
bathtub. The best time to raft, of course is the monsoons. As other rafts gained up on us, in celebration of Holi, vigorous water fights ensued, and soon we were splashing water at each other with our paddles and screaming “Happy Holi!” Our raft had a bucket, the more the easier to retaliate their offences, complete with battle cries. We were completely drenched in minutes. We paddled further downstream, keeping an ear out for more instructions from the guide, pushing the waters back and forth against the current and propelling the raft onwards. We passed scenic hills that towered over us and children playing at the shore. More children waited on overheard bridges, ready to aim colored balloons at our rafts. We paddled faster. The rapids. The thrill of the whole rafting experience. As water swirled around us, splashing ferociously and drenching our drying bodies yet again, our hearts beat faster and we let out delighted shouts. The raft swayed and bobbed dangerously on the water, prompting us to scream louder, until our guide resignedly asked us to keep it down or we wouldn’t be able to hear his instructions. There were five to six rapids during our trip with names such as “Upset Ladies’ Delight”, “Surprise”, “Upset” or “Monsoon”, and they were the eagerly anticipated highlights of the entire trip.
T
hink about it. Instead of being reluctantly drenched with water from suspicious origins, you get to play Holi while rafting, without artificial colors and with water that comes “trickling down from the majestic Himalayas”. And with the present water shortage in homes, the event also brings to your disposal an unlimited supply of water! Besides, people who don’t like itchy colors or being hit by water-filled balloons thrown in the name of fun can rejoice at the opportunity to play Holi au natural. With this refreshing concept dubbed the “Holi Boat”, the event Yeti Travel & Tours offered was obviously popular because twenty or so people showed up early in the fine morning of Holi. We hit the road at eight in the morning, once all of my future rafting mates had trickled in and settled down in our swanky tourist bus –with air conditioning – for a three hour long drive to CHARAUDI. We were an eclectic bunch. Even career-wise, rafting had brought together people from different fields: a criminal psychologist, a journalist, a geohydrologist, even a self termed “peace specialist”. Having dressed befitting rafting purposes – anything that dries off quickly, swimsuits, shorts, tees, we finally got ready for the main reason we had come here for - an adventure of a lifetime. We donned lifejackets and helmets and gathered to listen to instructions from the rafting guide. Rafting is called an extreme sport for a reason,
he warned us. We could drown, or injure ourselves against the craggy rocks if we weren’t careful. He went on to list out basic safety procedures - make sure the life jackets are a tight yet comfortable fit. Make sure you row as a team, following the guide’s instructions to paddle forward or back. The proper way to sit on the raft is on the edge of the raft, with feet tucked inside the boat. If you fall off, don’t panic, but swim towards the boat to be pulled up and if you don’t know how to swim, you can trust the life jackets. A bit intimidated, especially once we were asked to sign waiver forms indicating understanding and acceptance of potential serious risks, we clambered onto the rafts. And as the waters gently lapped around us, most of our trepidation washed away and got replaced with thrill and excitement for the adventure. “Forward all!” our guide shouted, and we started paddling in earnest, trying to synchronize our movements. The first few minutes were spent concentrating hard on the paddling movements, to the guide maneuvering the boat, but soon we had gained rhythm and started to enjoy the ride. Rafting on the Trishuli River is great for beginners, graded 3 in water difficulty, based on the Colorado River scale of 1-10, with 1 being the easiest and 10 the most difficult and quite technical. Rafting in February - dry season - meant that it was going to be even calmer. As a fellow rafter quipped, level 3 was like sailing on a huge
We were genuinely sad when our guide told us we had reached the end of the rafting expedition. More rafting had been planned but because the trip had started late, the sun had gone down and it was too windy to risk any more rafting. As we staggered to the shore, towards the hot dal bhat tarkari and a steaming mug of Mustang Coffee – more rum than coffee - waiting for us to help us warm up, I’m sure I wasn’t the only one very tired but still very exhilarated about having actually rafted down the Trisuli River. And as we bundled up on our bus in the evening to return home after a brief stay at the gorgeous Riverside Resort, the feeling of camaraderie and pleasure, of adventure and triumph at our shared adventure lingered in the air… DOOR PRIZES SPONSORS: • BUDDHA AIR (complimentary mountain flight for 1) • FISTAIL LODGE, POKHARA (overnight for two with bb) • BAKERY CAFÉ (meal voucher) • ISLAND JUNGLE RESORT (over night for 2) • RADISSON (meal voucher) • PRANA SPA (spa for 2) The “Holi Raft” is just one of the exciting events Yeti Travel and Tours organizes each month. Future plans include a Golf challenge and a roping competition too.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
newintown
22
www.nextyatra.com
Sherpa Adventure gear Inspired by the many unsung Sherpa heroes of Everest, Sherpa Adventure Gear aims to create dependable and outstanding outdoor clothing.
“Each season we grow. But at the core we will always be a small company with a simple vision of doing business in the inimitable way of the Sherpas; one step at a time, helping each other on the climb up, and never losing sight of the destination,” -Tsedo Sherpa, Vice President
MAR - APR 2010
Think mountaineering and you think ‘thrilling’, dangerous and then inevitably, ‘Sherpas’. Hardy and experienced veterans of the highest altitudes, Sherpas are renowned in the international climbing and mountaineering community. It has been speculated that a part of the Sherpas’ climbing ability is the result of a genetic adaptation to living in high altitudes. The link between Sherpas and mountain climbing has become so ubiquitous that it is perfectly apt to name an outdoor adventure gear enterprise after these heroes of mountaineering. Inspired by the many unsung Sherpa heroes of Everest, Sherpa Adventure Gear aims to create dependable and outstanding outdoor clothing. With their unique line of clothing one can glimpse into Sherpa culture and their way of life. Although a small company, they strongly believe in having a testing phase for their products, especially expedition the gear. The gear is tested in the rugged condition of the Himalayas and then altered according to
TIMES
feedback. Sometimes the product needs to go through numerous expeditions before being launched in the market. All of the products are designed and developed with the help of Sherpa athletes who are paid a royalty based on sales. In a positive note, Sherpa Adventure Gear has partnered with Alpine Ascents to donate up to $.50 for every item sold to The Sherpa Education Fund in the Khumbu region. Whether you’re trekking around Europe, prepping to climb Everest, or just heading out for a hike close to home, the complete line of base layers, travel clothing, shells and winter-worthy insulation will literally have you covered. You don’t have to be a Sherpa to survive in extreme environments; you just need the right clothing. Sherpa Adventure Gear uses the latest technologies like intelligent moisture management fabric, sustainable and odor-repellent bamboo charcoal, and eco-friendly itch-free merino wool to make clothing you’ll be comfortable in for days on end.
Until recently, outdoorsy women had to put up with wearing bulky, oversized men’s clothing to get the technical functionality they craved but thankfully, every piece of Sherpa Adventure Gear women’s wear is made with the same fabrics and features as men’s clothing, but designed to fit a woman’s body. Apart from men and women’s wear, Sherpa also has a wide range of bags, hats and sleeping bags. 90% of the production is done in Kathmandu. All of their products have a life time warranty. A new outlet of Sherpa Adventure Gear is soon to open in March at Namche. Much like having your very own Sherpa guide, you can count on every piece to be there for you— wherever your adventures take you.
For more details:
www.sherpaadventuregear.com
www.nextyatra.com
23
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
TRAVELOGUE
24 |
Sagarmatha national park Text by Dr. Ravi Shankar Photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar, Dr. Ashutosh Bodhe & Dr. Bimantha Perera
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
TRAVELOGUE | 25
www.nextyatra.com
The spectacular and tricky Lukla airport
Our resident doctor writes about a journey to the spectacular Sagarmatha National Park, home to some of the highest mountains on Earth.
My friends spent a freezing night huddled together in their tents at the foot of Kala Pathar (Black Rock), a famous view point for Mt. Everest in the Sagarmatha National Park of Eastern Nepal. They had set out from Gorak Shep at about four in the evening. The number of people volunteering to spend a night with flimsy protection in such arctic conditions steadily declined as the evening progressed. At the end only five brave souls set out led by my friend and an intrepid traveler - Dr. Bodhe. They were planning to capture the full moon rising above Mt. Everest. The black rock glistening in the silver moonlight with the snow giants dozing peacefully in the night’s stillness promised to be a sight to be treasured for the rest of one’s life.
The mercury dipped below minus 20°C at night and the photographers passed a frigid night, burning camphor in an attempt to beat the cold. Overcome by the cold they dozed off and by the time they got up, the moon was already high up in the sky. The magical moment had passed. Dr. Bodhe later told me that he bitterly regretted missing an opportunity of a lifetime. The spirit was willing but the body was weak! Early the next morning, at around four, we set off to capture the sunrise on Everest from atop Kala Pathar. The black rock had a thin coating of ice and the temperature was fifteen below zero. I soon began losing all sensation in my toes and fingers. My body started shiv-
ering in a vain attempt to generate heat. The Sri Lankans in our group unfurled their flag and had a small ceremony to celebrate having reached so far. The summit of Kala Pathar loomed challengingly above us. We retreated back to the safety and warmth of our lodge. On a later visit, I made it to the summit of Kala Pathar (5545 m) the highest I have ever been, accompanied by my good friend, Dr. Anup on a balmy winter afternoon. We were a large group of fourteen people with members from Nepal, India and Sri Lanka. Our flight to Lukla aboard a Yeti Airlines Twin Otter had been repeatedly delayed and it was only after two in the afternoon when we finally landed. Lukla airport is risky to land on with a very short runway. It’s safe to say that your life is literally in the hands of your pilot! The airport was created by Sir Edmund Hillary who also played an important role in convincing the Nepalese government to establish the Sagarmatha National park and the government of New Zealand to fund and support it.
sagarmatha national park
Location: Solu-Khumbu District of the Sagarmatha Zone Feature: UNESCO World Heritage Site (Listed In Year 1979 ) Area: 1,148 sq. km. Lowest point of 2,845 m (9,335 ft) at Jorsalle to 8,850 m (29,035 ft) at the summit of Everest.
Sagarmatha National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains some of the highest mountains on earth. In addition to Everest (8848 m) it also encompasses Lhotse (8516 m) and Cho Oyu (8188 m). The park was created in 1976 and was designated a natural world heritage site in 1979. Barren land above 5000m forms 69% of the park. In the lower forested zone, one can find flora such as birch, juniper, blue pines, firs, bamboo and rhododendron. Only dwarf shrubs are found above this zone. As the altitude increases further, plant life is restricted to lichens and mosses At least 118 species of birds, including the Himalayan Monal, blood pheasant and yellowbilled choughs are found. The park is also home to a number of rare animal species including the musk deer, wild yak, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear and red panda. The area is dominated by the Sherpa people (people of the east) who migrated to this region from eastern Tibet over 400 years ago. Sherpa people are predominantly Buddhists and are world famous as having much expertise in mountaineering.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
26 | travelogue
www.nextyatra.com
Spectacular Namche bazaar
Shortly after landing and after a tasty lunch at the Sunny Garden Lodge, we arranged porters and slowly set off. We were planning to spend the night at Phakding, (2600 m) a pleasant spot on the banks of the Dudh Koshi (Milk River). The initial part of the trek was along the Dudh Koshi valley. The going was hard, the hour late and we eventually settled for the night at the Lama Lodge in the large village of Ghat. We were tired and after a dinner of dal-bhat-tarkari (lentil soup-rice-vegetables) with sumptuous and fresh green vegetables, we dozed off easily. The next day was to be a long and tiring one as we were climbing to Namche Bazaar (3400 m), the unofficial capital of Sherpa land. Our plans to start early the next morning were foiled by a little over-enthusiastic photography by my friend Bodhe. By the time we
set out it was after nine. We had an early lunch at Monjo, the entrance to the park and finally started climbing again. Halfway through the climb we had our first glimpse of Everest and the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. Everest was clouded over. The sun hid behind a cloud bank and the weather became distinctly chilly. By the time we reached the outskirts of Namche it was after three. The town was teeming with trekkers and rooms were scarce. After repeated disappointments, we got lucky at the Ama Dablam lodge. The lodge is in the center of Namche, a collection of lodges and houses set in a hemispherical valley. The next morning there were superb views of Kwangde which turned golden in the warm glow of the rising sun. After breakfast and the by now usual round of photography by Bodhe, we set off on
Nuptse, Everest, the Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Lhotse
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Tempting goodies on display at a bakery in Namche
our acclimatization day hike. We planned to climb up to the airstrip at Syangboche (3900 m), visit the three star-rated Everest View Hotel and return. The boche in Syangboche means ‘a flat land seen from a hilltop’. There are a number of boches in the Everest region as people generally settled where arable land was available. The airstrip constructed to ferry high paying tourists to the luxury Everest hotel was out of use during our visit. At present Tara Air, a subsidiary of Yeti Air conducts regular flights to Syangboche. Tea at the Everest view in the company of Himalayan
giants like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam was a delightful experience. Carried away with the views, it became cloudy and cold by the time we returned. Our next day’s halt was the hamlet of Deboche below Tengboche. From there we set off to the settlement of Dingboche. The landscape was changing slowly and was becoming increasingly rocky and barren. It was T-shirt weather under the harsh sun even with a stiff wind beginning to blow our way. Many tourists prefer to stay in Dingboche as it gets more
Tea at the Everest view in the company of Himalayan giants like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam was a delightful experience. Sunrise on Ama Dablam
TRAVELOGUE | 27
www.nextyatra.com
1. 2. 3. 4.
Trekkers on the way to Dughla Mountain panorama The lodges of Chukung Mt. Everest from Kala Pathar
2
1 3
afternoon sun and is thus warmer than Pheriche. Dingboche was our second acclimatization halt. I was having a slight headache and was worried about altitude sickness having heard and read so much about it. The nexy day, we set off on a hike to Chukung along the Imja Khola valley. Chukung (4734 m) is a small collection of lodges among glacial debris. Upon reaching there, we had a Sherpa delicacy - Rigi Kur (thick potato pancakes) and enjoyed magnificent views of Ama Dablam. This photogenic mountain like Machapuchhre, which lies to the north of Pokhara valley shows different perspectives from different locations. Our stay for the night was arranged at Pheriche’s Himalayan Hotel owned by Nuru Sherpa. Over my many visits to the Khumbu region, Nuru had become a good friend. The rooms at his hotel were taste-
4
fully decorated and the dining area was warm and cozy. Nuru has also recently built a luxury lodge at Pheriche. The place is damp and cold, yet strangely beautiful. It also has the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) aid post. We were given a tour the next day by a Welsh volunteer doctor. I would meet him again two years later while doing a research project. From Pheriche, it is a four hour trek to Dughla. We stayed at a small lodge run by Tashi Tsering, the first Sherpa to summit Everest twice with two different expeditions on two consecutive days. In the Khumbu region, there are people who have summited Everest so frequently that it starts to sound like they’re walking to the market. When the weather turned bad that afternoon, I was huddled under a quilt trying vainly to think of warm beaches and the tropical sun. Soon
a few snowflakes started drifting down. Our Sri Lankan friends were elated. They had never seen snow before and started dancing in the snow storm. The ground was soon blanketed in thick white snow. The lodges were getting increasingly crowded and we had to reach early to be assured of a place to sleep. Next morning we decided to split the group into two. My student Vishal and I would race ahead to try and book a lodge at Gorak Shep (5100 m). Bodhe would concentrate on his photography and lead the rest up. We started climbing the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier soon. En route were two distinctly differently monuments – one was a monument to climbers who had lost their lives on Everest and the other a sculpture commemorating successful climbs atop Everest just in front of the HRA aid post. The
lodge at Gorak Shep was surprisingly comfortable for such a high altitude. Our staple was fast becoming Shakpa (Sherpa Stew) a thick and nourishing soup made of vegetables, potato, chunks of meat and whatever else was available! Next morning after climbing Kala Pathar (only some of us were up to it) and enjoying Everest up close we started back. We flew back from Lukla and were soon among the hustle and bustle of traffic in Kathmandu. After so many days of peace and quiet, it took quite some time to adapt. Dr. Bodhe was all for going straight away on another trek and leave civilization as we know it far, far behind! I was left thinking if in the race for more material possessions and wealth we had somehow lost our very soul.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
28 |
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
| 29
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
COVERSTORY
30 |
Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with seven of the ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the valley. Read on to find out what makes these sites so special.
Text by Utsav Shakya Photos by Suresh Maharjan (Travel Times) & Rocky Prajapati
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
| 31
www.nextyatra.com
O
f all the words that have been used to describe Kathmandu, the word ‘boring’ will never make it to the list. The place is just so happening. Politically, as the country goes through the most volatile time in its history, Kathmandu looks on, witness to the change. Culturally, like all great cities around the world, Kathmandu too grows and changes and moves slowly away from what it used to be. A concrete invasion is all too obvious in the ‘town of temples’. Kathmandu Valley - the melting pot of all major cultures in Nepal - went through many ruling dynasties and the whims and fancies of its many kings. As a result of this, today there are innumerable monuments and temples
that stand as testament to the rich art and architectural scene of those days. Some of these have been preserved well while others have fared badly with time. Tourism wise, Kathmandu sees increasing numbers of visitorss each year. Most come for the amazing trekking trips that Nepal offers. Others don’t even travel outside Kathmandu, reveling in the city’s sights and sounds. Kathmandu ends up as a rather unfair representation of the entire country for a lot of these tourists. But while the city’s crammed hoarding boards and unbelievable traffic jams hardly showcase Nepal in the best light, there are several reasons people fall in love with Kathmandu.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010 TIMES mar - apr 2010
32 | CoverStory
www.nextyatra.com
According to mythology, Kathmandu Valley was said to have been a huge lake that was drained by Bodhisatva Manjushri. The land was very fertile and people moved here for its cultivable land. Nepal was then divided into many small countries which were ruled by separate kings. Kathmandu was ruled over time by a string of small and large dynasties, all of which seemed to have one thing in common – their passion for art and architecture and a religious bent. Perhaps with the need to satiate their burgeoning egos, these rulers tried outdoing their predecessors with the many temples and monuments that we see spread out over Kathmandu Valley. With the annexation of the smaller countries into one Nepal, Kathmandu was chosen as the capital of the country and was divided into three cities - Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Lalitpur. Religious monuments such as the Swoyambhunath stupa or the Pashupatinath temple represent an important pillar of Nepali society - religion. Others such as the three Durbar Squares of the valley’s three cities and their awe inspiring design and sheer beauty, are testament to the cultural capital that Kathmandu is. The amazing architecture combined with their rich history makes them unique features, definitely worth the adulation they get from art, history and architecture enthusiasts. But we took it all for granted and let time and nature do its worst to many of these important structures.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
UNESCO’s announcement of Kathmandu as a collective World Heritage Site with seven noted sub-sites has played a huge role in the preservation and promotion of these places. The country joined UNESCO on May 1, 1953.
Sadly, due to negligence on the part of those concerned to keep up with UNSECO standards of preservation, Nepal was taken off the UNSESCO heritage site list once. Now that it’s listed again with many other new spots in and outside the valley en route to making it to the list, the tourism industry should make hay while the sun shines. Travel Times takes a look at these seven marvels of the valley and tries to understand what is it that qualifies them to be called World Heritage Sites. The Kathmandu Valley, inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979, is the object of a vast safeguarding endeavor. At the crossroads of the great civilizations of Asia, the site harbors some 130 Hindu and Buddhist monuments exemplifying Nepalese art at its peak.
For a small city like Kathmandu to have seven heritage sites is quite a boon. It gives Kathmandu a very unique advantage over other cities in the region. The listing itself adds a whole new dimension to the number of tourists interested in visiting the country.
budhanilkantha
sundarijal gokarna
bajra yogini
balaju
swayambhunath
bouddhanath pashupatinath
kathmandu durbar square
balambu
Changu narayan
airport thimi
kirtipur
patan durbar square chobar
BHaktapur durbar square
khokana lubhu harisiddhi bungamati
surya binayak
www.nextyatra.com
Changu Narayan With structures that date as far back as the 4th century, Changu Narayan is perhaps the best kept secret/ treasure trove of ancient artwork that combines tales from Hindu epics to Nepal’s former royalties.
CoverStory - Changu narayan | 33
Quick Facts
Location : 22 km from Kathmandu Importance : Oldest temple in Kathmandu valley Built in : 4th century A.D . Devoted to : Hindu Lord Shiva Major Attraction : Vishnu image with ten heads and ten arms
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
34 | CoverStory - Changu narayan
1
2
The doubleroofed temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his incarnation as Narayan and is exceptionally beautiful, with intricate roof struts depicting multi-armed Tantric deities.
1.
An idol of a lion, which is said to be the protector of bad spirits entering the temple
2.
Aerial view of Changu Narayan (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
3.
A 5th century idol of Garuda in front of the west side of temple dated.
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
The beautiful and historic temple of Changu Narayan stands on a hilltop at the eastern end of the valley, about 6 km north of Bhaktapur and 22km from Kathmandu. It dates back to 1702, when it was rebuilt after a fire. Its origins however go back to the 4th century with many stone sculptures in the premises dating to the Lichhavi period (4th to 9th centuries). Despite the temple’s beauty, easy access from Bhaktapur and the proximity of some fine walks nearby, it attracts relatively few visitors. The one street of Changu village leads up from the car park past a central pilgrim shelter, water tank and Ganesha shrine, before ascending past thangka and wooden mask shops to the temple entrance. The double-roofed temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his incarnation as Narayan and is exceptionally beautiful, with intricate roof struts depicting multiarmed Tantric deities. It is fronted on the west side by a kneeling figure of Garuda said to date to the 5th century. The man-bird mount of Vishnu has a snake around his neck and kneels with hands in the Namaste position facing the temple. Stone lions guard the wonderfully gilded door, which is flanked by equally detailed gilded windows. Two pillars at the front corners carry a conch and disc, the traditional symbols of Vishnu. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple itself, which is normally shut and open only for special occasions. The temple’s true gems are the wonderful, much older sculptures that dot the courtyard. In the southwest corner are several notable images, including one of Vishnu as Narsingha, his man-lion incarnation, disemboweling a demon. Another one shows him as Vikrantha-Vamana, the six-armed dwarf
TIMES
who transformed into a giant capable of crossing the universe in three steps during his defeat of king Bali. To the side of these images is a small black slab showing a 10-headed and 10-armed Vishnu, with Ananta reclining on a serpent below. The scenes are divided into three sections - the underworld, the mortal world and the heavens. The beautifully carved image is around 1500 years old. In the northwestern corner there is a 7th-century
www.nextyatra.com
image of Vishnu astride the Garuda. In front of the Garuda figure that faces the front of the temple is the oldest stone inscription in the valley, dating from 464 AD. The inscription is in Sanskrit and describes how the king persuaded his mother not to commit sati (ritual suicide) after his father’s death. Also interesting are the statues of King Bhupatindra Malla and his queen, kneeling in a gilded cage in front of the temple. Also worth noticing is the use of triangular bricks in the centre of the courtyard while out towards the edges are older, rounded-corner bricks.
CoverStory - Changu narayan | 35
Superb architecture from the 5th Century in Changu Narayan which says volumes about the impressive art scene of those days.
What to do: The sculptures are one of a kind here, most dating bac k hundreds of years. After explori ng the area, enjoy a short nature wal k in the area and visit some tra ditional villages along the way .
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
36 | CoverStory - Swoyambhunath
Swoyambhunath The very reason for the existence of the valley, Swoyambhu stands tall today as one of the most popular Buddhist places of worship in the country.
Prayer Wheel - A symbol of Buddhism
MAR - APR 2010
Swoyambhunath sits atop a wooded hill, with more monkeys than people and more people than houses. It is arguably the most ancient and enigmatic of all the holy shrines in Kathmandu valley. Its lofty white dome and glittering golden spire are visible for many miles and from all sides of the valley. Historical records found on a stone inscription prove that the stupa was already an important Buddhist pilgrimage destination by the 5th century AD. Its origins however, date to a much earlier time, long before the arrival of Buddhism into the valley. A collection of legends about the site, the 15th centuTIMES
www.nextyatra.com
Quick Facts
du m Central Kathman Location : 3 km fro y A.D. Built in : 5th centur ha dd Bu d Lor Devoted to : The to reach the Stupa, ps ste 5 36 i rat Major Attractions : Ha , ace Pe of e Stupa, Palac Temple d Swoyambhu reated, hence name Believed to be self-c
ry Swoyambhu Purana, tells of a miraculous lotus, planted by a past Buddha, which blossomed from the lake that once covered Kathmandu valley. The lotus mysteriously radiated a brilliant light, and the name of the place came to be Swoyambhu, meaning self-created or self-existent. Saints, sages and divinities traveled to the lake to venerate this miraculous light for its power in granting enlightenment. During this time, the aforementioned Manjushri was meditating at the sacred mountain of Wu Tai Shan and had a vision of the dazzling Swoyambhu
CoverStory - Swoyambhunath | 37
www.nextyatra.com
light. The deity flew across the mountains of China and Tibet upon his blue lion to worship the lotus. Deeply impressed by the power of the radiant light, he felt that if the water were drained out of the lake, Swoyambhu would become more accessible to human pilgrims. With a great sword Manjushri cut a gorge in the mountains surrounding the lake. The water drained away, leaving the valley that is present day Kathmandu. The lotus was then transformed into a hill and the light became the Swoyambhunath Stupa. Swoyambhunath’s worshippers include Hindus, Vajrayana Buddhists of northern Nepal and Tibet, and the Newar Buddhists of central and southern Nepal. Each morning before dawn, hundreds of pilgrims ascend the 365 steps that lead up the hill, file past the gilded Vajra (Tibetan - Dorje) and two lions guarding the entrance, and begin a series of clockwise circumambulations of the stupa. The four pairs of big eyes are symbolic of god’s all-see2
ing perspective. There is no nose between the eyes but rather a representation of the Nepali numerical one, signifying that the only way to enlightenment is through the Buddhist path. Above each pair of eyes is the third eye, signifying the wisdom of looking within. No ears are shown because it is said that the Buddha is not interested in hearing prayers in his praise. Surrounded by chaityas, temples, painted images of deities and numerous other religious objects, the stupa also has many small shrines with statues of Tantric and shamanistic deities, prayer wheels for the Tibetan Buddhists, Shiva lingams (now disguised as Buddhist chaityas and decorated with the faces of the Dhyani Buddhas), and a popular Hindu temple dedicated to Harati, the Goddess of smallpox and other epidemics. The presence of the Harati Devi temple signifies the intermingling of the pantheons of Hinduism and Buddhism in the development of the religious trends of Nepal.
The presence of the Harati Devi temple signifies the intermingling of the pantheons of Hinduism and Buddhism in the development of the religious trends of Nepal.
1.
Aerial view of Swoyambhunath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
2.
Group of different stupas, one of the attractions of Swoyambhunath
3.
A monastery near the stupa
4.
Harati Temple, a Hindu temple at the Buddhist site
4
What to do: The best time to visit Swayambhunath is in the day to notice all its details. But late in the evenin g when the place is lit up with spo tlights and oil lamps, is when the stu pa really shines, literally. Stay back on a day visit till when the lights come up and enjoy the calm here. Special bonus: The hill top is the best viewing spot for the city ’s night lights.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
38 | CoverStory - pashupatinath
www.nextyatra.com
Pashupatinath
Pashupatinath is the ultimate destination for Hindus all over the world. And they have good reason to think so. Its history and location all make for a wonderful visit that allows mythology to come alive. Nepal’s most important Hindu temple (admission Rs 250 for non Nepalese) stands on the banks of the holy Bagmati River, on the eastern fringes of Kathmandu. One of the most important Shiva temples on the subcontinent, it draws Shiva’s devotees in the millions during major Hindu festivals. Also in presence during these festivals without a miss are Shiva’s faithful sadhus, holy ascetic men, enjoying a hit of marijuana, a favorite of the deity who is popular for two things, his anger issues and his love for the ‘recreational’ drug.
Shiva Linga - Idol of Lord Shiva
Hindus know Lord Shiva as the destroyer and creator of the Hindu pantheon. He is also feared in his ‘terrible’ avataars. In Nepal, we know this MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Quick Facts of Kathmandu Location : 5 km east place/ ort st imp ant cremation Importanct Fact : Mo s in one of the oldest temple Nepal A.D. Built in : 5th century va d Shi Devoted to : Lor oda Style Pag le: Sty re ctu Archite
hostile avatar of Shiva as the cruel and destructive Bhairab. Shiva also has peaceful avatars. According to a legend recorded in local texts, especially the Nepalamahatmya and the Himavatkhanda, the Hindu god Shiva once fled from the other gods in Varanasi to Mrigasthali, the forest on the opposite bank of the Bagmati River from the temple. There, in the form of a gazelle, he slept with his consort Parvati. When the gods discovered him there and tried to bring him back to Varanasi, he leapt across the river to the opposite bank, where one of his horns broke into four pieces. After this, Shiva became manifest as Pashupati (lord of animals) in a four-face (chaturmukha) linga.
www.nextyatra.com
CoverStory - pashupatinath | 39
Aerial view of Pashupatinath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
The temple stands in the center of the town of Deopatan, in the middle of an open courtyard. On both sides of each door of the temple are niches of various sizes containing gold-painted images of guardian deities. Inside the temple and around the sanctum is a narrow ambulatory. The sanctum contains a one-meter high linga with four faces (chaturmukha) representing Pashupati, as well as images of Vishnu, Surya, Devi and Ganesh.
the temple courtyard is the small pagoda temple of Vasuki, the King of the Nagas. Vasuki has the form of a Naga (mythical snake) from the waist upwards, while the lower parts are an intricate tangle of snakes’ bodies. According to local belief, Vasuki took up residence here in order to protect Pashupati. One can often see devotees circumambulating and worshipping Vasuki before entering the main sanctum.
The struts under the roofs, from the late 17th century, are decorated with wood carvings of members of Shiva’s family such as Parvati, Ganesh, Kumar, Yoginis as well as Hanuman, Ram, Sita, Lakshman and other gods and goddesses from the Hindu epic Ramayana.The temple’s extensive grounds include many other old and important temples, shrines and statues. South of the temple, for instance, is Chadeshvar - an inscribed Lichhavi linga from the 7th century and Dharmashila, a stone where sacred oaths are taken, and pillars with statues of various Shah kings.
The Bagmati River, which runs next to Pashaputinath Temple, has highly sacred properties. The banks are lined with many ghats (bathing spots) for use by pilgrims. Renovating or furnishing these sites has always been regarded as meritorious.
On the northern side of the temple is a 9th-century temple of Brahma. In the northeast corner of
Arya Ghat, dating from the early 1900s, is of special importance because it is the only place where pure water for Pashupatinath Temple can be obtained. The main cremation site is Bhasmeshvar Ghat, which is the most used cremation site in the Kathmandu Valley. Across the Bagmati River are 15 votive shrines, the Pandra Shivalaya, which were built to enshrine lingas in memory of deceased persons between 1859 and 1869. TIMES MAR - APR 2010
40 | CoverStory - pashupatinath
www.nextyatra.com
In & Around pashupatinath 1. Path between Guheshwori and Pashupatinath temples 2. A unique avatar of Vishnu 3. Sadhus around Pashupatinath (photo by Gregor Younger)
4. Virupakshya 5. Pandra Shivalaya - 15 small temples of Lord Shiva in a row. 6. Gorakhnath and Vishworup Temples
2
What to do: If possible, vi sit the temple during the Hindu fest ival of Shiva Ratri to experience the maddening re verie that Pashupatinat h commands. On other days, enjoy th e superb arch itecture of the temple and peace of the cr emation area by the ri ver and the fo rests across the rive r where Shiva was believed to ha ve lived disgui sed as a deer.
MAR - APR 2010
5
4
7. A deer in nearby Slesmantak Forest
TIMES
6
7
www.nextyatra.com
| 41
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
42 | CoverStory - bouddhanath
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
CoverStory - bouddhanath | 43
www.nextyatra.com
Bouddhanath
With every little detail of the stupa having profound meaning, Bouddhanath is somewhere you can lose yourself for hours. Amidst the hustle and bustle of community life here, is a strange aura of peace.
Tibetan Prayer Wheel
Quick Facts
of Kathmandu Location : 7 km east A.D. Built in : 4th century dha Bud d Devoted to : Lor bu Chorten Chenpo Also known as : Yam gest stupa in Nepal Important Fact : Big a diameter of about The whole structure has of approximate ght hei a 100 meters and 40 meters.
On the eastern side of Kathmandu, just north of the airport and around 6 km from the tourists hub of Thamel, is Bouddhanath (admission for foreigners/SAARC Rs 50/20), home to one of the world’s largest stupas. The area is known as Boudha and is the religious centre for Nepal’s considerable population of Tibetan exiles. The side streets are full of maroon-robed Tibetans (and foreign) monks, gleaming monastery roofs and shop-fronts full of Tibetan texts and yak butter. This is one of the few places in the world where Tibetan culture is accessible, vibrant and unfettered. Bouddhanath has always been linked to Tibetan Buddhism and Lhasa. A major
trade route coming from Lhasa went through Sankhu, and Bouddhanath therefore lies at the Tibetan traders’ entry to Kathmandu. One can easily imagine the traders giving thanks for their successful journey across the Himalaya, or praying for a safe return. People, including mountaineers and Sherpas, still come here to pray before undertaking a journey in the Himalayas. From a height, Bouddhanth Stupa looks like a giant mandala - a diagram of the Buddhist cosmos. And as in all Tibetan mandalas, four of the Dhyani Buddhas mark the cardinal points, with the fifth, Vairocana, enshrined in the center (in the white hemisphere of the
Aerial view of Bouddhanath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
44 | CoverStory - bouddhanath
www.nextyatra.com
It’s a wonderful feeling to be swept around by the centrifugal force of faith remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction. stupa). The five Buddhas also personify the five elements (earth, water, fire, air and ether) and are represented in the stupa’s architecture.
1. Front face of Bouddhanath
There are other symbolic numbers here as well: the nine levels of Boudhanath Stupa represent the mythical Mt. Meru, center of the cosmos and the 13 rings from the base to the pinnacle symbolize the path to enlightenment or ‘Bodhi’ — which gives the stupa its name.
2. A monastery in Bouddhanath 3. A artistic mandala on the ceiling
The stupa is surrounded by an irregular 16-sided wall at the bottom, with frescoes in the niches. In addition to the five Dhyani Buddhas, the stupa is closely associated with the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara (Padmapani), whose 108 forms are depicted in sculptures around the base. The mantra of Avalokiteshvara - Om Mani Padme Hum - is carved on the prayer wheels beside the images of Avalokiteshvara around the base of the stupa. At the base of the stupa are three large platforms, decreasing in size. These platforms symbolize the 2
What to do: in the morning Visit the area early to enjoy the g nin eve the in e or lat Get a meal ce. pla serenity of the any of the at or some Nepali tea from the oss acr ts ran new restau about how ng nki stupa and try thi ked like loo ve ha uld wo ce the pla point for ry ent an as o decades ag Tibetan traders.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
earth. Next are two circular plinths supporting the hemisphere of the stupa, symbolizing water. As in Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath is topped with a square tower bearing the omnipresent Buddha eyes on all four sides.The square tower is topped by a pyramid with 13 steps, representing the ladder to enlightenment. The triangular shape is the abstract form for the element of fire. At the top of the tower is a gilded canopy embodying air and above it is a gilded spire, symbolic of ether and the Buddha Vairocana. Prayer flags tied to the stupa flutter in the wind, carrying mantras and prayers heavenward. Late afternoon is a good time to visit Bouddhanath, when the group tours depart and the place once again becomes a Tibetan village. Prayer services are held in the surrounding gompas and, as the sun sets, the community turns out to pray at the stupa - a ritual that combines religious observance with social event. It’s a wonderful feeling to be swept around by the centrifugal force of faith - remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction.
www.nextyatra.com
CoverStory | 45
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
46 | CoverStory - bhaktapur
www.nextyatra.com
Bhaktapur Durbar Square With its famed 55 window palace and serene environment, spending time in Bhaktapur Durbar Square will give you a taste of life in ancient Nepal.
Quick Facts Location : 13 km east of Kathmandu Architecture Style: Assortm ent of Shikar and Pagoda Style Major Attractions : The Lion Gate, The Golden Gate, The Palace of Fifty Five Win dows, The Art Gallery, The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla
Bhaktapur or Bhadgaun as the old folk call the place is perhaps the best preserved old world heritage site in the country. Both because of it’s out of the way location from Kathmandu city and owed to the incredible preservation work in the area, Bhaktapur retains the very air of the old days. Its durbar square is an assortment of pagoda and shikhara-style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The square is part of a charming valley as it highlights the idols of ancient kings perched on top of stone monoliths, the guardian deiMAR - APR 2010
TIMES
ties looking out from their sanctuaries, the wood carvings in every place - struts, lintels, tympanums, gateways and windows - all seem to form a well orchestrated symphony. The square is full of not to be missed places. The Lion Gate is a massive gate that dates back to 1696 AD. It is guarded by two huge statues of lions at either side. The dreadful stone image of Lord Shiva and a fearful image of Ugrachandi stand out. The Golden Gate is said by many to be the most beautiful and richly molded specimen of its kind in
CoverStory - bhaktapur | 47
www.nextyatra.com
the entire world. The door demonstrates superb craftsmanship depicting monsters and mythical creatures. It was erected during the reign of King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance to the main courtyard of the fifty-five windows palace. The palace itself was built during the reign of King Yakshay Malla in 1427 and was subsequently remodeled by King Bhupatindra Malla in the 17th century. Among the brick walls with their gracious setting and sculptural design, is a balcony with
fifty-five windows, considered a unique masterpiece of woodcarving. The Art Gallery contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu and Buddhist traditions of various periods and descriptions and is particularly famous among researchers on Hinduism and Buddhism. Also popular is a statue of King Bhupendra Malla in the act of worship. It is located on a column facing the palace. Arguably the most famous pagoda in Nepal, Nyatapola was built in 1702 A.D by
Bhupatendra Malla. It was dedicated to Siddhilaxmi, the tantric goddess of supreme power. Nyatapola in Newari means a five tiered structure symbolizing five basic elements - water, earth, fire, wind and sky. Also on display is a Pashupati temple built by a Shiva devotee who lived in the area. The devotee was apparently asked by Lord Shiva to make this temple. Another temple worth a visit is the stone Vatsala Temple, from the 17th century, dedicated to a mother goddess, which is full of intricate stone work. TIMES MAR - APR 2010
48 | CoverStory - bhaktapur
www.nextyatra.com
Both because of it’s out of the way location from Kathmandu city and owed to the incredible preservation work in the area, Bhaktapur retains the very air of the old days.
5
2
4
1.
Aerial view of Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Photo
4.
An inspiring architecture - Golden gate Torana with Garuda and Taleju Bhavani
Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
2.
A day shot of Bhaktapur Durbar Square
5.
Nyatapola - 5 tiered temple
3.
A stone sculpture of Vishnu over Garuda
6.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square, sparkling in night
6
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
What to do: The square is the bes t preserved out of the three squares of the valley. Take some amazing postcard per fect photographs of the area and of you rself while going around. This is a pla ce you want to write home about! Als o, feast on the very popular milk curd( Juju Dhau) of Bhaktapur, good for cooling off on warm days and also for dig estion.
CoverStory - kathmandu | 49
www.nextyatra.com
kathmandu durbar square
This is where community life meets a heritage site in a rich coming together that celebrates Nepal’s artistic history in the most wonderful yet simple way. Kathmandu’s Durbar Square was where the city’s kings were once crowned and legitimized, and from where they ruled (durbar is Nepali for palace). As such, the square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture. After the palace was shifted to Narayanhity, which is now a museum, the old palace was cordoned off for official use. The surrounding area however is open to the public making it a wonderful coming together of a heritage site with the everyday life of the thousands who go through there every day. Part vegetable market, part tourist hub for its small knick knacks, it’s easy to spend hours wandering around the square and watching the world go by from the terraced platforms of the towering Maiju Deval. From this perched location, the chaos of the traffic in the area somehow has a sense of peace and purpose, their collective hullaba-
Quick Facts hmandu Location : Central Kat site for former royalty tion Important Fact : Corona Temple, Mahendreshvara Major Attractions : Taleju ple, Temple, Jagannath Tem Chowk, al Nas ka, Dho an um Han ayak Bin ok Ash pa, Kasthamanda Shrine
loo bouncing off the white washed walls of the old palace. Although most of the square dates from the 17th and 18th centuries (many of the original buildings are much older), a great deal of damage was caused by a large earthquake in 1934. Many structures were rebuilt, but not always in their original form. The Durbar Square area is actually made up of three loosely linked squares. To the south is the open Basantapur area, which runs into Freak Street, an old, popular tourist destination frequented by hippies back in the 70’s. There is the main Durbar Square area, with its popular terraced temples to the west. Running northeast is a second part of the square, which contains the entrance to the Hanuman Dhoka and an assortment of temples. From this open TIMES MAR - APR 2010
50 |
www.nextyatra.com
2
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
| 51
www.nextyatra.com
The square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture.
What to do: Climb atop the terrac ed Maiju Deval temple with a cup of tea, brewing at its base at the busiest hou r of the day and enjoy the chaos of life in the old town. Leave your iPod and travel guide at home. Lose yourself her e.
4
area Makhan Tole - at one time the main road in Kathmandu and still the most interesting street to walk down - continues northeast. A good place to start an exploration of the square is with what may well be the oldest building in the valley, the unprepossessing Kasthamandap, supposedly built out of the wood from a single tree. The entry ticket to Durbar Sqaure is valid only for the date stamped. If you want a longer duration you need to go to the site office (4268969; opening hours 07:00 - 19:00) on the south side of Basantapur Square, to get a free visitor’s pass, which allows you access for as long as your visa is valid. You will need your passport and one photo and the process takes about two minutes.
1, 2. Wide shots of Kathmandu Durbar Square 3.
Taleju Temple
4.
Nautalle Durbar (Nine storyed palace)
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
52 | CoverStory - patan
www.nextyatra.com
patan Durbar Square
Patan Durbar Square
s Quick Fact east of Kathmandu Location : 5 km of ancient Newari : good specimen Importance e. ur ect archit th 21 golden Krishna temple wi : ns tio rac Major Att k, Sundari ow Ch l pinnacles, Mu rayan Chowk Na av sh Ke k, ow Ch
Monuments and temples are literally crammed into this Durbar Square. Linger here and feel the ‘breath of centuries’. No other site demonstrates everyday lives merged into the heritage site as well as Patan’s Durbar Square. Tourists in Nepal will find themselves utterly awestruck by the exceptional grouping of palaces, shrines, monuments and temples in Patan Durbar Square. Who would have thought that so many buildings of historical and religious value MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
could be found in such great density? Patan Durbar Square is one such wonder. Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is preserved almost like a museum with only minimal activity inside the square and a large part of Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is cordoned off for official use by the state. Patan’s Durbar Square is unique in that it’s temples and the grand palace
CoverStory - patan | 53
www.nextyatra.com
Krishna Mandir
Sundari Chowk
and huge square is so very integrated into the lives of the people who live there. Outside the palace you will see old men resting on wooden benches, reading the paper or smoking and talking to each other. On the steps of the temples in front of the palace-Patan museum, you will see young people converge at the end of the day, sipping on tea or enjoying the street food that people seem to enjoy here right on the square. You will not see people embracing city life so much anywhere else in Nepal with people choosing to sit on the steps of their homes and not inside.
Some of Nepal’s top sights and architectural feats are located in close proximity to each other at this famed Durbar Square. The square is loosely designed around a former royal palace. Surrounding the intricately designed palace of are numerous temples, all exquisite examples of Newari architecture. Patan Durbar Square boasts of three courtyards, known locally as chowks. These are the Keshab Narayan Chowk, Mul Chowk and Sundari Chowk. Standing out as a classical example of Nepali stone architecture is the grand Krishna Mandir. Containing some 21 TIMES MAR - APR 2010
54 | CoverStory - patan
www.nextyatra.com
2 4
Patan’s Durbar Square is unique in that it’s temples and the grand palace and huge square is so very integrated into the lives of the people who live there. shrines, the temple stone structure was constructed during the 1600s under the direction of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla. It was built with the purpose of praising Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as Krishna. Scenes from the Mahabharata have been carefully engraved on the temple walls. 1.
2.
Patan Durbar Square with Taleju havani temple in background Aerial view of Patan Durbar Square (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)
3.
Mul Chowk in Patan Durbar Square
4.
Keshav Narayan Chowk in Patan Durbar Square
As you make your way around Sundari Chowk of Patan Durbar Square you will see the magnificent Tushahity royal bath. This exquisite structure is a marvelous work of stone art. A massive platform built from stone dominates the chowk. It is here that one of the kings would sleep during cold nights and sit during the monsoon rains, all with the goal of achieving eternal bliss. Another popular attraction in the square is the famed Golden Temple. Inside this Newar monastery is a marvelous collection of metal sculptures, statues, paintings and scriptures. The deity that resides inside this temple is supposed to be a powerful one and pooja ceremonies here follow strict rules. One is asked to remove leather products such as belts, wallets or shoes before entering the premises. Another religious site here that features
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
praiseworthy metal work is the Bhimsen Temple. The temple was built in honor of Bhim, a god worshiped by businessmen in Nepal for bringing them good luck. Other sights to look out for in Patan Durbar Square are Taleju Bhawani Temple (1667), Degu Taleju Temple, Oku Bahal beind the Rudra Varna Maha Vihar and Mahaboudha Temple – the temple of a thousand Buddhas. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Patan Durbar Square has much to offer tourists. Not only can visitors view the marvelous structures and religious art works, but there are also fascinating stores located around the squares where you can find delightful souvenirs and other items.
What to do: When in Patan, do as locals do. Enjoy the world go by from one of the benches outside the Pa tan Museum, or on the steps of any temple in the area. Enjoy the street food or better still feed some pigeon s while you are spending time doing not hing.
CoverStory | 55
www.nextyatra.com
Words from unesco Axel Plathe
Head, UNESCO Office in Kathmandu UNESCO Representative to Nepal
The seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley inscribed on the list of World Cultural Heritage as a single site “Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site” in 1979 hold a very special place in the Nepalese people’s lives. These ensembles, including Hindus and Buddhist monuments and three residential palaces of the former royal cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, are not simply monuments and sites that were constructed by ancient rulers that have been reduced
to museum pieces. Quite the contrary is true. These sites are so intricately woven into people’s lives here that their absence would mean a huge vacuum in the community, They are physical and cultural signatures of the community living in and around espousing their ancestors’ great contribution to the civilization of Asia, notably representing the era of Nepalese renaissance in terms of highly developed craftsmanship in brick, wood and bronze as well as of various cultural manifestations that used to be a part of their communal life. The exceptional architectural typologies displaying historic and artistic achievement testify to “living cultural traditions” manifested even today in the unique urban setting of the Newar community and reflect a unique coexistence and amalgamation of Hinduism and Buddhism within the strategic natural setting as an interface between the great cultures to the north and south of the Himalayas, closely
Getting there: All of the sites mentioned above are easily reached. There are local buses that go towards all the sites mentioned after which one might have to take a short walk to get to the heritage site. Taxis will easily get one exactly to the site. Cycling or hiring a motorbike for a day might be other options. Non Nepali tourists might be asked for a small entrance fee at some sites. These rates differ for tourists from SAARC and nonSAARC countries.
The three other sites on the country’s heritage site list are the expansive forests of the Chitwan National Park, the serene and equally grand Sagarmatha National Park and Lumbini – the birthplace of the Buddha. To promote all ten sites is a must and processes are underway to make the most of the UNESCO listing.
associated with legends, rituals and festivals. These seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley have fulfilled specific criteria to be together on the list of World Heritage and deserve to be preserved for the value they holds not just to bring in tourists, but also as an important part of the Nepalese people’s rich cultural, artistic and architectural history. UNESCO plays an important role in the preservation of the World Heritage Site of the Kathmandu Valley that is one of four sites in the country. Over time, UNESCO has been not only been helping to preserve these sites through strong alliances with the national authorities, notably the Department of Archaeology and the site managers represented by the municipalities and the trusts, but also with the communities living in and around the monument zones whose daily lives are so closely linked with these places.
There has been criticism from the international community that preservation of the heritage sites has not been up to par. It has to be understood however that the monuments here are not merely show pieces but an important part of daily lives. There are a huge number of people who frequent these sites, not as tourists but because their daily lives - may it be prayers, small businesses or even something as simple as a morning walk revolves around these places. Preservation is undoubtedly important to highlight the rich cultural, artistic and architectural history of the Nepalese people. But all of this has to be understood and defined from a uniquely Nepali point of view. Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is one such plan; a pretty ambitious one too for that matter. The numerous promotional packages have been aimed at bringing in a million visitors. Promoters claim to have come up with new and innovative travel packages to suit every kind of tourist. From history and culture-themed escapades to wildlife
UNESCO has consistently worked towards generating increased awareness of the site managers for the preservation of the world heritage values of the site, notably through the preparation of the Integrated Management Framework which was adopted by the Government of Nepal as a benchmark for assuring sufficient protection of the sites. The approval of this framework had a considerable impact upon the decision making levels by bringing together the different stakeholders and government line agencies into dialogue. As Head of the UNESCO Office here in Kathmandu, it is indeed a pleasure to contribute to the preservation of such amazing sites that belongs to all humanity. I look forward to working with the Nepali people to protect them from the threats that may affect them and to ensure that they contribute to social cohesion and well being, including in promoting them in relation to the celebration of the Nepal Tourism Year 2011.
adventures, to extreme sports and trekking in the great Himalayas, the packages offer all. While the state tourism board’s preference to quantity over quality has been frowned upon, with many skeptics calling it mere wishful thinking for the country’s ill-equipped hospitality sector to accommodate so many tourists, it’s still a very good initiative. It’s about time the Nepali people stopped worrying about every possible setback to its development and took concrete steps towards it.
References: www.unesco.org/kathmandu
www.welcomenepal.com
Together for Tourism
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
hEALTHTIMES
56 |
health in Kathmandu S tay i n g
www.nextyatra.com
By Dr. Ravi Shankar Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.
Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal evokes strong emotions among travelers. Some on reaching the valley fall hopelessly in love with its splendid architecture, bustling durbar squares, majestic monuments and the deep sense of history which pervades the city. Others take a look at the crowded, chaotic streets, the dust and the pollution, the dirty polluted rivers and cannot wait to hop on the next flight home. Kathmandu valley has seven World Heritage sites. Among these are the durbar squares of the three ancient capitals of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur), the Changu Narayan temple, the temple complex of Pashupatinath and the stupas of Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. With this concentration of world heritage sites and Kathmandu being the major point of entry/exit the traveler is bound to spend a lot of time in the valley. In this article we look at how to stay healthy in the Kathmandu valley. As in any large city, rapid urbanization has caused an increase in population with attendant problems of clean air, safe drinking water and sewage disposal. Traffic and brick kilns are among the major air pollution sources. Avoid the evening peak hours if possible and try to patronize hotels set back from the road. Jogging along the roads can increase the breathing rate and depth of respiration and a greater amount of pollutants can reach the lungs. Also most roads lack side walks or are perennially dug up increasing the risk of accidents. MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
The other major concern is about food and drinking water. Over the years, unfortunately, the quality of drinking water in the Kathmandu valley has deteriorated. Ensure you drink only clean, boiled water. Storage of boiled water in unclean containers can cause recontamination. While going on a day trip either buy a processed drinking water bottle or ensure your hotel supplies you with clean, boiled water in a clean bottle (better). Bringing water to a rolling boil for around 20 seconds ensures that most disease-causing organisms are
www.nextyatra.com
| 57
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
58 | hEALTHTIMES
www.nextyatra.com
destroyed. If you are using processed water remember to crush the bottle after use and keep in mind that plastic bottles are a major environmental problem in the valley. A variety of disease causing germs can be transmitted through food. Food preparation methods can vary in quality and the water used for cooking may be of doubtful quality. Certain restaurants have a good reputation for cleanliness and good food handling. You can patronize them. Remember that quality of restaurants can fluctuate quickly in Kathmandu. Properly cooked food is safe but be careful with salads. If you have to eat them ensure they are properly washed in clean water preferably with some iodine. Food spoils quickly in the high temperature of summer and previously prepared and reheated food may be dangerous. I still remember an episode which happened nine years ago. My friends and I had had some food in a restaurant which looked pretty safe. I had severe vomiting and diarrhea later that night and by the morning was weak and dehydrated. I suspect the reheated ‘dal’ (lentil soup, a staple of the Nepalese diet) was the culprit. Stomach infection can result in severe vomiting and may cause diarrhea or dysentery. Diarrhea is loose watery stool and is commonly caused by viruses. Antibiotics will however have no effect on the course of illness. Diarrhea causes loss of salt and water through the stool and oral rehydration salts (ORS, Jeevan Jal, Nava Jeevan) may be all that is required. Dysentery is blood and mucus in the stool and the two
most common organisms responsible in Nepal for it are Entameba and Giardia. In Nepal, a drug called metronidazole (metron) is commonly prescribed and used in all types of stomach infections. The drug can cause a metallic taste in the mouth and can cause a severe reaction when alcohol is taken. Monkeys can be a menace at certain locations in the valley. Some sites frequented by monkeys are the Thapathali monument complex, Swayambhunath Stupa and the Pashupatinath temple. Monkeys usually try to snatch food from the hands of unwary travelers. Do not keep your food out in the open. Do not eat and drink in a place where monkey are common. Do not go near baby monkeys. A tetanus toxoid injection may be necessary for monkey bites and scratches. Clean the wound well with soap and water and apply an antiseptic ointment and a clean dressing. Monkeys are deemed capable of transmitting rabies in Nepal and all travelers are requested to complete their course of pre-exposure rabies prophylaxis before coming to Nepal. If a person has completed the course of injections and is exposed to a possibly rabid animal then two shots of a booster injection are recommended. If the person has not taken the pre-exposure injections then immunoglobulin injected around the wound offers immediate protection followed by the course of rabies treatment injections. Stray dogs are plentiful in the valley. Do not pick up strays and be careful while entering houses with dogs.
Before coming to Nepal it is recommended that you update your vaccination status by completing the required courses of immunizations. The vaccines recommended are hepatitis A, hepatitis B, Japanese encephalitis, meningococcal meningitis, rabies, polio, tetanus toxoid and typhoid. The valley is at a height of around 1400 m and is free from malaria though mosquitoes are aplenty.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Check that your hotel/lodge has adequate mosquito protection measures and/or offers mosquito nets. Mosquito repellent creams may be helpful. The altitude of the valley however does not expose travelers to the risk of altitude sickness. The valley is surrounded by hills which offer trekking opportunities. While trekking the usual risk of injuries is present. This has been discussed in detail in a previous issue of Travel Times. In the monsoon leeches may be present and the risk of leech bites is a possibility. The valley’s location ensures that summers are usually pleasant and the high temperatures seen in the flatlands (the Terai) are rare. Risk of health related illness is minimal. The average temperature though has been steadily increasing. Health related illnesses have been covered in a previous issue of Travel Times. Remember to wear loose white clothing in summer, use a hat and stay well hydrated and replace the salt losses while walking around the valley in the summer months. In winters the minimum temperature is about 4° C and thick woolens may be required. However, the valley has some world class medical facilities. There are many up to par public and private hospitals. Many teaching hospitals attached to medical schools are also present in the valley. There are specialized travel medicine clinics which deal with problems of travelers.
Quick tips to stay healthy in Kathmandu • Keep in mind noise and vehicular pollution. If possible stay in quiet areas set back from the road • Drink only clean, boiled water • When going on day trips either use packaged drinking water or get your hotel lodge to provide you clean, boiled water in a clean container (preferable) • Patronize restaurants which maintain good standards of hygiene • Be careful with salads and raw foods • Keep ORS handy. Dissolve a sachet in a liter of boiled and cooled water, store in a clean container and use as required • Be careful around monkeys • Complete your course of vaccinations before visiting Nepal • Be careful while trekking in the hills surrounding the valley • Dress appropriately to suit temperature requirements • Seek specialized help when required
www.nextyatra.com
| 59
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
hotels&casinos
60 |
www.nextyatra.com
Culture meets luxury
dwarika’S HOTEL P
eople travel to find new things, explore new cultures, meet foreign people with thoughts so different from their own. They long for exotic customs, unique food, and quirky traditions that will enliven the ordinary lifestyles they have become so used to back at home. Tourists come to Nepal to experience its authentic culture for themselves, and it must be a more than a little disappointing MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
to see that Nepal too has fallen victim to rapid Westernization. Nepali traditions all but forgotten, vehicles jamming the streets, fast food chains cropping up everywhere, modern Western-style hotels, did they travel all that way to find a disappointing copy of what they already had where they came from? Fortunately, Dwarika’s Hotel, Nepal’s first
Text by Yesha Malla
ever Heritage Hotel, more than makes up for the current apathy towards disappearing Nepali traditions and antiques. Entering the unassuming doorway to Dwarika’s, you find yourself in a quaint sitting room overlooking a courtyard evoking bygone eras of historical glory. Handmade old furniture carved with dancing figures and tables of polished wood adorn the waiting area, complete with a set of the ancient game of
| 61
www.nextyatra.com
Walking about the hotel premises will make you feel like you are in an ancient palace, what with the carvings and art pieces that have been flawlessly crafted into the buildings.
1. 2. 3.
Facade of the Hotel Bathroom of Royal Suite Lumbini Lounge
“Bagchal” to play at leisure. The sounds of the city now sound far away and are pretty much forgotten in the sunlit cobbled floor of the courtyard dotted with rustling trees teeming with chirping birds. The atmosphere is rustic and peaceful, as if time stands still in the heart of fast paced Kathmandu. Dwarika’s is a unique hotel that was not, like most hotels, opened for commercial business purposes. Rather, it evolved as a work in progress, out of the efforts of a noble man to preserve the culture of his homeland. In 1952, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha, pained to see intricately engraved wooden pillars being ripped off unceremoniously from old buildings to be used for firewood or stripped off for lumber, bought them on the spot rather than see them destroyed. He couldn’t bear to see signs of the selfsame destruction of the symbols of architectural prowess of his forefathers everywhere
and soon after started to salvage all the artifacts he could, creating an extensive collection in the process. As his collection grew, he needed a place to keep them in. He decided then to construct a building in the old Newari style of Kathmandu using the carved doors and windows he had rescued. The idea of using the building as a lodge so people could appreciate the architectural skills and culture of Nepal
emerged and so Dwarika’s Hotel was born. Today, even after his demise, his quest to protect the architectural glory of Nepal is not only alive and well but thriving. Dwarika’s Hotel prides in its mission to not only scour the nation for and rescue carved wooden artifacts to add to their burgeoning collection but also train their own legion of craftsmen to duplicate the skills of ancient Nepali artisans. The craftsmen are trained to effectively repair and refurbish missing pieces of wood carvings imitating the style of the ancient carvers and incorporate them into the Dwarika’s buildings. A tiny lane from the main buildings of Dwarika’s Hotel leads to a special restoration workshop established for this purpose.
With such a noble mission and such dedication to art, it is befitting to find that Dwarika’s hotel is spectacularly beautiful. Walking about the hotel premises will make you feel like you are in an ancient palace, what with the carvings and art pieces that have been flawlessly crafted into the buildings. Each artifact rescued and lovingly preserved has its own TIMES MAR - APR 2010
62 |
www.nextyatra.com
showpieces placed in the niches and on the tables further adorn the rooms. The Royal Suite does justice to its regal name, with its spacious and luxuriant interiors, the valuable art pieces, and the stairs leading to an upper chamber complete with a chess set. Huge windows look out to the charming courtyard of the hotel. A door leads to the terrace where one can spend hours sunbathing or enjoy the fresh evenings, lying on the swing chair at the farthest end.
All modern implements are seamlessly concealed behind authentic handmade furniture so as to maintain the authentic look.
1. 2.
3.
MAR - APR 2010
Royal Suite Lounge Krishnarpan restaurant to give you a taste of Nepali cuisine in traditional Nepali surroundings Nepali cuisine served in Krishnarpan restaurant
TIMES
history, accompanied by tales of lore and rituals from ancient times. The oldest is a large ornate door from the 13th century. Each wing of the Hotel is unique and was built at different years in different styles. Each is a veritable museum on its own. Dwarika’s Hotel boasts Heritage Rooms, Junior Suites, Executive Suites and the Royal Suite, all individually furnished, unlike the box set décor of most hotels. Fully equipped to make guests comfortable, and at home, the rooms, with floors of finely polish terracotta tiles, beamed ceilings and carved windows, are quaint and very welcoming. All modern implements are seamlessly concealed behind authentic handmade furniture so as to maintain the authentic look. Collectibles and
The Hotel provides many ways to whittle away time pleasantly. You can go to the Library Lounge, lined with books from Dwarika Das Shrestha’s collection, mostly dealing with Nepal and its culture. It is cozy and softly lit, where you can spend a comfortable evening by the fireplace with friends or family, or simply in the company of books. Exploring the House of Treasure for souvenirs is another perhaps more expensive option. Or perhaps you would like to take a few laps at the swimming pool that imitates a lavish 12th century Malla Dynasty baths. Even better, you can enjoy special in-room massages – natural Ayurvedic massages, relaxing Deep Tissue Vibration massages, or traditional Newari massages. Besides recreational facilities, the Lohn Hiti conference hall, so called because of the stone spouts gushing water nearby – lohn hiti is literally stone spouts in Newari - is also available for business seminars and workshops. A surefire way of experiencing a culture, is of course, through food. Dwarika’s hotel has the Krishnarpan restaurant to give you a taste of Nepali cuisine in traditional Nepali surroundings. Here you can enjoy delicious Nepali fare ranging from 6 to a 22 courses on the floor with traditional Nepali utensils. The small chamber that lead into the main dining area is stocked with classy wines, and lined with framed photographs of celebrities, VIPs, and royalty who graced the hotel and dined in Krishnarpan.
| 63
www.nextyatra.com
If you ever wanted to indulge yourself in Nepali culture and history, Dwarika’s is the place to go. 1. 2. 3.
Toran Restaurant Fusion Bar Swimming pool
Lit by dim soothing lights, the huge hall is dotted with low tables and cushions on the floor. In true Nepali tradition, shoes have to be removed before entering the restaurant. For an international feel, Dwarika’s also accommodates the Toran Restaurant which features first class dining from all over the world. The Fusion Bar, where the traditional meets the new, is the place to hang out, with live blues and Jazz music, exotic drinks, great food and a casual atmosphere. Musical instruments, photographs of famous musicians line the walls. Dwarika’s Hotel’s success is evident in the other establishments it operates: the Dwarika’s Himalayan Shangri-la Village Resort in Dhulikhel and the Kaiser Café Restaurant and Bar at the Garden of Dreams, Thamel. The hotel was featured in “Asia’s Legendary Hotels” in 2007, in the renowned HIP Hotels series of books: “HIP Hotels: Orient” by Herbert Ypma and in “The Hotel Book” published by Taschen, Germany. Its heritage restoration attempts was appreciated and honored by the PATA (Pacific Asia Travel Association) and the hotel was awarded its first PATA Heritage Award in 1980. It was even named a World Heritage Site. Its continued efforts to preserve the architectural heritage of Nepal has obviously paid off. If you ever wanted to indulge yourself in Nepali culture and history, Dwarika’s is the place to go. Nowhere else will you be able to stay in an authentic museum of Nepali artifacts and not be told off for touching the specimens. Travelers hungry for a taste of Nepal, stay here and enjoy its truly Nepali atmosphere, be inspired by its dedication to its cultural conservation principles as well as towards the comfort and satisfaction of its guests, and return home satisfied and content, for you have experienced the essence of Nepal, in Dwarika’s Hotel.
For more information on Dwarika’s Hotel, log on to: www.dwarikasgroup.com
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
64 | Recommended restaurants&Bars
www.nextyatra.com
365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 2110800 Speciality: Arabian
Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat Teku Tel:4260630 Speciality: Multi
Layaku Restaurant Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Multi
Royal Thai Restaurant New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Thai
Baryo Fiesta Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4414395 Speciality: Tandoori, Taas
Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Bar Chhetrapati Tel:4212730 Speciality: Italian/Indian
Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Thamel Tel:2191729 Speciality: Italian
Rum Doodle Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4701107 Speciality: Steak & Pizza
Matsuri Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4229032 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese
Seoul Arirang Korean Restaurant Nagpokhari, Kathmandu Tel: 4429052 Speciality: Korean
Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Dillibazar Tel: 4411603 Speciality: Nepali
Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Nepali, Continental
Bhumi The Restro Lounge Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4412193 Speciality: Newari
Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Thamel Tel:4422519 Speciality: Multi
Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Restaurant Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Tel: 4721939 Speciality: Various Veg Tastes
Hot Breads New Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Confectionery
Bourbon Room Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4441703 Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental
Kausi Kitchen Restaurant & Bar Woodland Complex Tel: 4227288 Speciality: Multi
Cafereena Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Tel: 4231313 Speciality: Thai, Multi
Khing Thai Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel:4244378 Speciality: Thai
Café de Patan Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Tel: 5537599 Speciality: Newari Foods
Koto Restaurant Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine
Cherry Lounge & Bar Lazimpat, Opp. Shangrila Hotel Mob: 9741 115143 Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks
K-Too Bear & Steak House Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Thai La Dolce Vita Thamel Tel:4700612 Speciality: Italian
Chez Caroline Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263070 Speciality: French Delicatessen Center & Cafe Durbar marg Tel:4221331 Speciality: Multi Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Indian Factory Thamel Tel: 4701185 Speciality: Multi Fire And Ice Thamel Tel:4250210 Speciality: Italian Flavour’s Café & Restaurant Bouddha, Kathmandu Tel: 2140277 Speciality: Chinese
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Road House Cafe Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 5520524 Speciality: Italian
Mike’s Breakfast Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Moods Studio Lounge Blue Bird Mall Tel:4215740 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Nepali Chulo Restaurant Durbar Marg Tel:4220475 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tel: 4414383 Speciality: Organic Foods Pizza Express Lazimpat Tel:2161212 Speciality: Pizza Rice & Bowl Restaurant Tripureshwor Tel:4260677 Speciality: Chinese Red Dingo Jawalakhel, Lalitpur Tel: 01-6914930 Speciality: Australian Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-230890 Speciality: Indian, Continental
Shisha Terrace Cafe and Bar Thamel Tel:4701104 Speciality: Multi Shogun Japanese Restaurant Babarmahal, Kathmandu Tel: 4263720 Speciality: Japanese Tamas SPA Lounge JP Road, Kathmandu Tel: 4257658 Speciality: Multi Tukuche Thakali Kitchen Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 4225890 Speciality: Authentic Nepali Tushita Lazimpat, Kathmandu Tel: 4432957 Speciality: Continental, Nepali Wunjala Moskva Naxal, Kathmandu Tel: 4781104 Speciality: Newari, Russian Speciality: Israeli, Arabia
www.nextyatra.com
| 65
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
FOOdRINK
66 |
www.nextyatra.com
Samay Baji Food of the Gods Text by Prabal B. Malla
{
Laa chhaku wayka Samay baji, Give us Samaybaji with a piece of meat
Walla walla pulu kishi‌ Here comes the white elephant‌.
{
These are the words to an old, humorous Newari song, passed down from one generation to the other. During the Indra Jatra festival, the words to this song ring through the streets of old Kathmandu. As they labor hard pulling at a chariot, the song is sung in anticipation of the feasting that that will take place to mark the end of the festival.
Location Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, Kathmandu MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
foodrink | 67
www.nextyatra.com
H
“
eave, ho…heave, ho…pull harder, flank to the left, get out of the way …” hordes of tipsy men shout. A magnificent chariot of the living goddess Kumari along with smaller but equally majestic chariots of the elephant god Ganesh and Bhairab are being pulled into the cultural hub of Kathmandu, the Hanuman Dhoka. It is the time of the Lakhe dances, folk dramas and joyful processions. The white wicker elephant (Indra’s Steed) tumbles around, dancing amidst the amusement of everyone around. Children are running around giggling and singing songs while the women look at the procession with a smile on their faces. The great festivity of Indra Jatra is coming to its royal end. This is marked by a huge feast in which, the whole of the city participates, some at the square itself while most at their homes. The feast is called Samay Baji. Diversity is their hallmark; feasting is their passion. They are the Newars, the indigenous folk of the Kathmandu valley who work at different professions and excel in all. Most importantly, they are known for their food culture, which is rich and varied, though the rest of the world has yet to taste it. A traditional dish of the Newars, Samay Baji is a regular item in many Newari festivities. What makes this dish so popular is the range of varieties on offer. Samay Baji is a set of dishes representing the Pancha Tatwa (five elements) and more. The pancha tatwa holds a high pedestal in many religions and cultures, in particular, Hinduism and Buddhism. According to Hindu scripts, the great or
Samay is a variation of the regular beaten rice in which the beaten rice is lightly fried till it’s puffy. This puffiness created by trapped air is the reason why Samay symbolizes one of the pancha tatwas - space.
Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ and pure by the Newars and hence offered to the gods on many occasions. primary elements from whence people and everything else evolve and dissolve are five folds. From god himself, space came in to being; from space, air was born; from air, the burning fire; from fire, water; finally from water, the earth. Symbolization of the pancha tatwa in this dish signifies the importance this dish holds in Newari folklore. This Newar cuisine comprises of mustard oil and a host of spices, such as cumin, sesame seeds, turmeric, garlic, ginger, methi, bayleaves, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, chili,
Baji is dehusked rice which is flattened into flat light dry flakes. This form of raw, ready to eat form of rice is very popular in Nepal and is an integral part of a Nepali’s diet. It even holds it’s own in various cultural and religious ceremonies. The crunchy feel of the baji is good on the taste buds and goes easy on the stomach.
mustard seeds and vinegar. These spices used to add flavour to the dish actually give the cuisine its unique taste. It basically constitutes Baji (beaten rice), Samay (puffed rice), Chhoyla (grilled meat), Sanya (smoked fish), Mushya (fried soya bean), Lava (garlic), Palu (sliced ginger), Woh (ground black lentils pancake), Bhuti ( boiled beans), Alu Waala (boiled potato), Khein (egg), Chatamari (ground ricepankcake) served with Aila or Thwon:, the common liquors that Newars make at home.
Chhoyla – meat grilled over the flames of dried wheat plants, is a very popular Newari dish that goes far beyond its ethnic boundaries. It represents one of the five pancha tatwas - the earth. This mouth watering dish is made up of buffalo meat which is marinated with spices and grilled.
Sanya, an integral part of Samay Baji, is basically fresh water fish that is dried and smoked till its crispy brown. It represents the third pancha tatwa - water.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
68 | foodrink
www.nextyatra.com
Woh is an exclusive Newari dish prepared by grounding black lentils. The mash is then shaped into small pancakes and cooked till it’s slightly brown. Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish consisting of boiled and salted beans.
aila is a locally brewed rice brandy which is a considerably strong drink. Thnwo: however is more like Newari beer. This represents the final pancha tatwa -fire for obvious reasons. It is consumed in almost all Newari festivals and thus is a signature drink of the Newars.
Some items can be added or removed from this incredible mixture depending on the occasion. The vast range of items and varying flavors give it a unique taste. Served on a traditional leaf plate, the presentation itself is a piece of art. The different colors and smells provide enough incentive to dig in as soon as the food is served. The beaten rice (Baji) and the flattened rice (Samay) are centred while the rest of the items are placed round the centre piece. The Aaila is served alongside, customarily on a clay saucer. Samay baji is traditionally eaten seated on the floor on long mats woven from straw called sukul. Only the right hand is used to eat (after washing of course!) while the left hand should never touch food as it is considered impure but may be used for cups and glasses. It is usually eaten by mixing all the side dishes in different ways with the beaten rice, little by little, savoring the delicate taste of everything on offer. Every combination, up to the diner’s imagination provides a unique tingle on one’s taste buds. The musky taste of woh, the crunchy beaten rice, the spicy meat, the fiery aaila and all the other diverse feels of the different items makes eating this dish feel like an adventure in itself.
Chatamari is another popular dish served as a part of Samay baji. Although many variations of this dish are available, the one here is the most basic one. Grounded rice is mixed with water and cooked on a flat pan in the shape of a very thin cake.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Aalu Waala means mixed potatoes in Newari. Boiled potatoes are cut into pieces and mixed lightly with a hint of spice, edible oils and salt. It serves to be quite a good cohort to the beaten rice.
Khein is a boiled egg, lightly fried and served whole. Eggs hold an important role in Newari customs. They are offered and partaken on every occasion ranging from festivals for the gods to birthdays.
With so many festivals and such a rich culture of food and drink and worship, celebrated for ages, the Newars are cultural standouts when it comes to feasting. Every next morsel tastes different from the last. Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ and pure by the Newars and hence offered to the gods on many occasions. Many restaurants in and around Kathmandu give everyone a chance to taste what the gods devour. Not just a unique cuisine, it is a cultural heritage and a piece of history that has survived the test of time. And to be a part of the past, the future and the present, all in the same instant of time, is a privilege that not everyone can experience. With so many festivals and such a rich culture of food and drink and worship, celebrated for ages, the Newars are cultural standouts when it comes to feasting. Newari cuisine with its unique taste, peculiar cooking style and natural spices has always been popular with Nepalese. For all of you out there who have yet to experience Newari gustatory delicacies, there are
Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish consisting of boiled beans that are sautéed with salt and spices. The mild taste of dish compliments the whole set.
a number of good restaurants where you can try some good Newari cuisine. Or, if you have Newar friends, perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to be invited to a traditional Samey Baji meal. As the feast concludes, the people of the city get back to their hearths with heavy hearts - the sights and sounds of the celebration still imposed in their minds, for they wish that the night would last for ever. A stomach filled with Samay baji and the mind filled with Aaila, the tired citizens of this ancient country drift away into a peaceful slumber on the full moon night, dreaming of the gods and heaven, still singing, still dancing. Where to get your hands on Samay Baji • Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, Kathmandu • Patan De Café, Mangal Bazaar, Patan • Kwalku Kitchen, Patan • Layeku Restaurant, Patan Durbar Square • Newa Lahana, Kirtipur
Lava and Palu are garlic and ginger respectively. These ingredients are not mashed and mixed into any other item as in the case of most cuisine. Here, the ginger and garlic are cut into small pieces and then lightly fried and served. They blend in to spice things up.
Mushya is fried black soya bean which adds a darker color and more crunchiness to the Samay baji. It represents the pancha tatwa - air. Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish consisting of boiled and salted beans.
www.nextyatra.com
| 69
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
ADVENTUREINTRO
70 |
Paragliding The desire to spread wings and take off has been long associated with freedom. Paragliding might be the best answer yet that man has come up with towards this dream.
Text by Yesha Malla Photos Courtesy: AVIA CLUB NEPAL
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
adventureintro | 71
www.nextyatra.com
For once you have tasted flight, You will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, For there you have been, And there you long to return.
-Leonardo da Vinci
L
eonardo da Vinci, the great 15th century artist and inventor who had dedicated so many years delving into the mysteries of flight and sketched many plans for flying machines, would have appreciated the simple yet elegant idea of gliding through the air with a piece of fabric forming a canopy overhead to increase air drag. Paragliding, considered both a recreational and a competitive sport, is a basic form of free flight that will delight and excite the most adventurous of thrill seekers and make the dream of man to soar the skies like birds come true.
Paragliding owes its origins to parachutes, for paragliders are simply parachutes that allow us to glide through the air and not descent vertically. Paragliding evolved from skydivers flying their parachutes off small hills in eastern Montana in the late seventies and climbers in the French Alps using ram-air skydiving canopies to make safe and efficient descents from peaks after ascending technical routes. People realized there was a whole new challenge in prolonging the distance and duration of such flights if one could find and loiter in areas of rising air like the hang gliders did. In September 1965, David introduced ‘slope soaring’ as a summer activity for ski resorts. NASA originated the term ‘paraglider’ in the early 1960s, and ‘paragliding’ was first used in the early 1970s to describe foot-launching of gliding parachutes. Today’s paraglider is a free-flying footlaunched ram-air airfoil canopy, flown and landed with no other energy than from the wind, gravity, and the pilot’s muscle power, who sits in a harness suspended below a fabric wing. Paragliders combine the light weight and safety of sport parachutes with the convenience, low cost, and soaring capability of hang gliders. It gets lift from the wind and sun, providing a way to soar along a ridge or to rise in the warm air of invisible, thermal
currents. The pilot lays the canopy out on the ground, puts on the harness, launches by running down a slope, and quietly glides down to the landing area below. With the right conditions and experience, it’s also possible to make flights where one gains altitude and flies for many miles and many hours. Needless to say, Nepal enjoys its fair share of paragliding enthusiasts. After all, people paraglide not only for the exhilaration and the sense of adventure, but to enjoy the scenery and nature with a bird’s eye point of view. And where better to glimpse a bit of heaven, with azure skies, snow-white mountain peaks, clear waters in lakes and frothing and gurgling rivers than Nepal? The best place to paraglide is the Annapurna region in Pokhara, where paragliding already enjoys immense popularity and many agencies offer the best of paragliding adventures. The micro-climate of Pokhara valley makes it an ideal area for flying, with far more constant conditions than the Kathmandu valley. There are several sites around Phewa lake but the most accessible is Sarangkot. A view point 700m above Pokhara, it is unique in that it has a road running to the top. With the lake 2000ft below, the mountains behind, and the unlimited potential for cross country flying out and returns, this has quickly become the main site for the area, and many pilots have based themselves in Pokhara for the season, flying from this mountain alone. There are an abundance of other sites around the valley such as Dhikie Danda, Galem, Sirkot, Tansen, Bandipur all of which can be connected by air from Sarangkot. Gliding is a weather dependent sport and the flying season in Nepal commences from mid October until the beginning of May with the clearest and more favorable
people paraglide not only for the exhilaration and the sense of adventure, but to enjoy scenery and nature with a bird’s eye point of view. TIMES MAR - APR 2010
72 | adventureintro
www.nextyatra.com
Turning time
Ready for run-up
weather for mountain views in the months of November, December, and January. No previous experience is required as qualified pilots provide a short briefing before launching, so anyone can paraglide, and can fully trust pilots for one of the most exciting journeys of their lives. For the beginner there are tandem flights where the passenger gets to fly in front of a trained pilot in complete safety. Both the pilot and the passenger have their own harness which is attached to each other and the wing. The more experienced paragliders are usually allowed by companies to fly on their own after a small test. Adventure companies in Nepal offer many paragliding options. Those who want to travel through the country via paragliding for multiple days can be given a few days training course for cross-country gliding. This type of travel program can last for a few days or weeks if desired and makes for a unique way to travel through Nepal and see different towns that many travelers do not get the chance to see. Annapurna MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
paragliding is perfectly safe in the hands of trained professionals; it is only as safe or dangerous as the pilot makes it. Panorama flights are available for a sightseeing of three of the highest mountains of the world, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Manaslu. Midday Cloud buster flights are more thrilling as paragliders thermal higher and higher up above Sarangkot and land by the lake after a enjoyable ride of half an hour. Cross-country flights follow a trail to the north of Pokhara towards the big mountains to travel from one valley to another in duration of an hour. The most thrilling option is Acrobatic Flying, for the biggest shot of adrenaline, where acro pilots, in the mere space of 10-20 minutes take passengers on a wild rollercoaster ride looping
and spiraling in the air, with maneuvers such as the “Helicopter” “SAT” “Back-fly” “Tumble” and “Wingover”. Paragliding is often viewed as a higher-risk sport than it actually is. But part of the excitement of paragliding is how difficult and dangerous it looks; after all, you’re hovering in midair and the ground appears to be staring up hungrily at you as you fly. But paragliding is perfectly safe in the hands of trained professionals; it is only as safe or dangerous as the pilot makes it. While paragliding one must make sure that all the flying equipments including gliders, harness, helmets, reserve parachute and other essential safety gears are top of the
adventureintro | 73
www.nextyatra.com
Exploring the forests and trails
Aerial view of paddy field next to phewa lake
line and constantly checked for reliability at all conditions. Nonetheless, there many risks of injury for the reckless or ill-prepared. However good equipment, proper training, and most importantly mature judgment make the sport safe. General safety precautions include pre-flight checks, helmets, harnesses with back protection (foam or air-bag), reserve parachutes, and careful pre-launch observation of other pilots in the air to evaluate conditions. The safety of the sport is directly influenced by the skill and sense of the pilot. Given that equipment failure of properly certified paragliding equipment can be considered a non-issue, it is accurate to say that paragliding can be a very safe sport. The individual pilot is the ultimate indicator of his or her personal safety level. However if the following safety measures are taken and the general rules of paragliding are taken into consideration then it is safe to say that the only injury that will take place is minor injuries such as sprains and bruises.
Landing at the bank of Phewa lake.
• The safe pilot will not fly at sites that pose an unreasonable challenge to his/ her flying skills. • The safe pilot will not be influenced by the possibly negative examples set by others. • The safe pilot will only fly on days in which the weather is conducive to safe flight. Turbulence in all its forms is enemy #1 for a flying paraglider wing. Because paragliders have no solid support, their shape (and ability to fly) can be ruined by an errant down draft or the like. Therefore, turbulence or conditions conducive to turbulence generation is a primary factor in determining whether the weather is safe. • Paragliding is only done in good weather. For paragliding, it is best to be prepared with strong shoes and a windproof jacket. If sensitive to motion sickness it is recommended to take some sort of non-drowsy medicine well before the flight.
If you would like to watch the sunset from a comfortable seat in the air, supported by the buoyant evening air with prime views of Phewa lake and mountains then paragliding is for you.
Besides rafting and bungee jumping, paragliding is the most exhilarating and popular extreme sport in the world. People come in droves to paraglide and experience the winds beneath their feet. If you would like to watch the sunset from a comfortable seat in the air, supported by the buoyant evening air with prime views of Lake Phewa and mountains then paragliding is for you for it is the simplest and most serene way to fulfill man’s oldest dream -- free flight! Even though mishaps and accidents can occur due to faulty equipment or unfortunate lack of judgment in the pilot’s part or plain bad luck, if you dream of flying not in stuffy airplanes or noisy compact helicopters but like the kingly eagles, then do not limit yourself in fear of could be or might be’s. Soar free! suggested paragliding operators • AVIA CLUB NEPAL www.aviaclubnepal.com • Blue Sky Paragliding www.paragliding-nepal.ch
• Sunrise Paraglider www.sunrise-paragliding.com • Frontier www.nepal-paragliding.com • Annapurna Paraglider • Para Nova
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
HOLIDAYDESTINATION
74 |
www.nextyatra.com
You haven’t lived till you’ve been to
the city of life
| Artificial and natural beauty to knock your socks off. | | Activities and thrills to stop your heart and blow your mind. | | Sights and shows to dazzle your eyes. | Hong Kong may be small in size, but it’s a tourist destination jackpot; almost any of Hong Kong’s districts can be designated as one. There are that many places to see within these 1,104 square kilometers. So, keeping in mind a holiday experience, here are the nine Hong Kong destinations you don’t want to miss. Text by Darshan Shakya
The Peak
OCEAN PARK Opened in 1977 on the southern side of Hong Kong Island, Ocean Park features rides, exhibits and conservation facilities. Visit some of Asia’s rarest animals at the ‘Amazing Asian Animals’ exhibit. Enjoy the thrill of SkyFair, a huge helium-filled balloon soaring more than 100 metres into the sky. Immerse yourself in a fantastic voyage on the Ocean Express: the latest quick, smooth and thrilling way to travel from the Ocean Park Waterfront to the excitement at the Summit.
If you just thought of a snow capped mountain, think again. Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak is not a cold, uninhabited geographical feature: it’s a tourism hotspot, bustling with seven million visitors a year. What makes this place one of the most popular tourist sites? First, the jaw –dropping view of the surrounding city skyline, the world-famous Victoria Harbour and Kowloon, towering skyscrapers and peaceful green hillsides. Second, two major leisure and shopping centres, the Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria are situated nearby, adjacent to each other. And third, the famous Peak tram system to get you there. For great continuous unfolding vistas, we recommend taking the Peak Circle Walk or going directly to the Lugard
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Road. The Lions View Point Pavilion and the viewing terrace at the Peak Galleria, as well as the Peak Tower Sky Terrace are excellent viewing spots as well. As for shopping…well that depends entirely on the tourist’s budget! One more recommendation for the Peak-bound tourist: do not miss out on Madame Tussauds; Hong Kong , open from 10 am to 10 pm daily. This one-of-a-kind wax museum offers visitors an unprecedented multitimedia experience.
Peak Tower
Symphony of lights This spectacular multimedia display, already named the “World’s Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show” by Guinness World Records, has been further expanded to include more than 40 buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour. The show creates an all-round vision of coloured lights,
laser beams and searchlights performing a stunning, unforgettable spectacle synchronised to music and narration that celebrates the energy, spirit and diversity of Hong Kong. For best view, we recommend taking a harbor cruise.
www.nextyatra.com
| 75
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
76 |
: HOLIDAYDESTINATION
www.nextyatra.com
Hong Kong Disneyland The name speaks for itself, but we’d like to add a little more. Anyone visiting the Hong Kong Disneyland Resort will have magical journeys through four themed lands, namely Main street U.S.A., Fantasyland, Adventureland and Tomorrowland. Plus, two Disney-style hotels offer a diverse range of food at various restaurants in the park. And of course, specialty stores sell Disney souvenirs in each themed land and at the two hotels.
Avenue ofStars
Ngong Ping 360
Hong Kong Wetland Park
Hong kong is known as the Hollywood of the East. This place is a tribute to that. Featuring commemorative plaques, handprints of movie celebrities, descriptive milestones, kiosks with movie memorabilia, a towering Hong Kong Film Awards statuette, and a life-size statue of Bruce Lee as well as fantastic views into the Victoria Harbor [Symphony of Lights included] and the Hong Kong skyline, this is one spot you don’t want to miss.
Markets
for your shopping pleasure
After the initial 25 minute cable ride, three major attractions await the tourist. Witness the transition of Siddhartha Gautam into Gautam Buddha in “Walking with Buddha.” Enjoy the antics of the three monkey friends, as they travel on a journey of greed, gluttony and friendship
Jumbo Kingdom Live it up, then shop till you drop. But where? There’s a plethora of markets in this ‘small’ tourist destination: the Western market, the Stanley Market and Murray House, Cheung Sha Wan Road Fashion Street, the Ladies’ Market, Temple Street Night market, Jade Market and Jade Street, Yuen Po Street Bird Garden / Flower Market / Goldfish Market and more! Shopper’s heaven or budget nightmare? Each of these markets is worth checking out – so much that ranking is near impossible.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
with the show “The monkey’s tale.” Experience a birds-eyeview of the deep blue sea and the lush green mountainside underneath your feet with the glass-bottomed cable car ride, The Crystal Cabin. We especially recommend the last one: the thrills are unbelievable.
Home to a stunning array of wildlife, this manmade wetland is a world class ecotourism facility aimed at promoting green tourism, education on environmental protection and wetland conservation. If you love nature, you’ll adore this place.
Tired from all that touring? Stomach rumbling from all that sight seeing? How about dinner – Chinese royalty style? Presenting the Jumbo Floating Restaurant: a truly unique restaurant, designed like a classic Chinese palace, excelling in the preparation of seafood for discerning diners. Situated in Aberdeen harbour,
the Jumbo can accommodate around 2300 people at a time, and is one of the world’s largest floating restaurant. Today, the restaurant has been renovated and goes by the name Jumbo Kingdom: it is now not only a restaurant, but a modern complex of fine dining, shopping, sightseeing and cultural attractions.
The Hong Kong experience is unforgettable. And almost indescribable. We can only sum up this experience with the official Hong Kong slogan, Hong Kong – Live it. Love it.
GEtting there Quite a number of airlines are available for your journey to Hong Kong: Nepal Airlines and Dragon Airlines fly directly to Hong Kong more than thrice a week, whereas other airlines offer connecting flights. Included in the more popular connecting flights are China Southern Airlines(via Guangzhou), China Eastern Airlines (via Kunming), Thai Airlines (via Bangkok) and Singapore Airlines (via Singapore).
www.nextyatra.com
| 77
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
globaltreasure
78 |
petra
www.nextyatra.com
The Rose Red City
Hidden behind an almost impenetrable wall of mountains lies what has come to be known as the treasure of the ancient world. Getting there may seem difficult, but it’s well worth the effort. As a site dedicated to heritage says about Petra - “there is nothing in the world quite like it.” It was a city designed to strike wonder into the hearts of all those that entered it.
Text by Darshan Shakya Photo Courtesy Dennis G. Jarvis
Turkey
cyprus lebanon mediterranean sea
syria
iraq
israel
palestine
jordan
petra
Laos
Thailand
Angkor Wat
egypt
Cambodia
saudi arabia Phnom Penh
Vietnam
red sea
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
Petra is considered the most famous and gorgeous site in Jordan located about 262 km south of Amman and 133 km north of Aqaba. It is the legacy of the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled in southern Jordan more than 2000 years ago. Admired then for its refined culture,
massive architecture and ingenious complex of dams and water channels, Petra is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the new seven wonders of the world that charms visitors from all over the globe.
: Globaltreasure | 79
www.nextyatra.com
history Petra’s story begins from 10,000 BC when small human settlements became its first inhabitants. Petra’s major inhabitants, the Nabataeans, settled in this place during the 6th to 4th millennium BC. During the next four hundred years, their dominion spread as far north as Damascus and their capital city was beautified with splendid temples, tombs and many hundreds of freestanding residential and commercial buildings (the less substantial houses and stores have long since crumbled). The earliest tombs and temples, dating from 300 BC, show Egyptian and Assyrian characteristics, and with the Greek and later Roman influences the Nabataeans developed their own distinctive architectural style. Petra continued to prosper as the Romans carved many buildings as well as a great theater capable of holding 3000 spectators. While the political and economic power was completely in the hands of the Romans, the Nabataeans continued to adhere to the practices of their own religion. All these structures were laboriously cut into the soft sandstone rock that would have crumbled long ago if not for the fact that this region of Jordan receives very little rain. However, the magnificent city of Petra had disaster in store for it. First, having fallen under the control of Islam, the commercial importance of the city plummeted. Then, a series of earthquakes in the 7th and 8th centuries destroyed many of the cities in the region, further weakening the agricultural and commercial infrastructure. Neglected, abandoned to time and the elements, Petra was now
A good view of the Theatre, built by the Nabataeans and expanded by the Romans.
lost to the human world. The tale of its rediscovery is akin to a Hollywood movie. A young Swiss adventurer, Johann Burckhardt, was slowly making his way from Damascus to Cairo by a little known and dangerous land route. Fluent in Arabic and posing as a Muslim traveler, he heard tales from desert Bedouins of the extraordinary ruins of an ancient city hidden in the remote Sharra Mountains. No European had seen the fabled city, or lived to tell about it, and Burckhardt recognized that he would have to resort to deceit to gain entrance. Pretending that he intended to sacrifice a goat at the shrine of Aaron, Burckhardt persuaded two Bedouins to escort him along the Valley of Moses and toward the shrine of Aaron. There is only one reasonably safe path leading to the shrine from Wadi Musa and, luckily for Burckhardt, it passed directly through the ruins of Petra. Thus, the magnificent city of Petra was rediscovered.
The earliest tombs and temples, dating to 300 BC, show Egyptian and Assyrian characteristics and with the Greek and later Roman influences the Nabataeans developed their own distinctive architectural style.
Sites to see Frankly, the city of Petra is just too beautiful to describe. No, really. Still, out of the several monuments, these four sites we recommend the reader NOT to miss. The Treasury The kilometer long, cool, and gloomy chasm leads to (or Siq) a long narrow gorge whose steeply rising sides all but obliterate the sun. It leads to Petra opens into a natural square dominated by this magnificent structure. The intricately carved facade glows in the dazzling sun, its architectural splendor presented in all its glory, at least all that remains of it. Perhaps this is the most famous Petra monument
of all. Its elaborately carved facade is alive with a cast of Nabataean deities and mythological characters - equestrian figures of the Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux) whose role in the Greek myths was to guide the souls of the dead to the Elysian Fields, dancing Amazons wielding axes, winged Victories, Medusa heads, eagles and various mythical creatures - all funerary symbols.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
80 |
: Globaltreasure
www.nextyatra.com
1. The Treasury at Petra, Jordan 2. The facade, 40 m high, carved out from the sandstone cliff wall, 3. The Urn Tomb which has an immense courtyard and main chamber giving an air of importance. 4. Corinthian Tomb, mostly damaged by earthquakes
1
2
The Treasury’s original purpose remains elusive - except that it was not a treasury. Some scholars believe it was a royal tomb, with the king’s burial place in the small chamber at the back; others, a temple, pointing to its temple-like facade and the lack of burial holes. For them the rear chamber was
the sanctuary, complete with ritual ablution basin. It could also have been a memorial mausoleum some say, perhaps for the cult of the defied Obodas I. Whatever it was, it was built magnificently and stands today as one of the most wondrous monuments of the world.
The Royal Tombs Of the 500 plus tombs in this magnificent city, these tombs are the most impressive. The difficultto-reach Urn tomb, the small multi-colored Silk Tomb, the eclectic Corinthian Tomb, the 3 storey 3
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
4
high Palace Tomb and the badly eroded Sextus Florentinus Tomb give a wonderfully ironic and beautiful use of the dead.
: Globaltreasure | 81
www.nextyatra.com
The High Place of Sacrifice Petra’s High Place of Sacrifice is perhaps the best preserved of all such sacred places of the ancient world. It may have been created by the Nabataeans, as the high quality of the stone work would indicate, or it may date back to their predecessors - the Edomites. The rock was leveled to form a shallow courtyard with benches (triclinia) on the
north, east and south sides facing the altar platform, on which animal sacrifices were made. These sacrifices represented the renewal of the close relationship between man and his gods and blood was, of course, a symbol of life.
1, 2. Across the street where the people are gathered is the start of the climb that goes to the High Place of Sacrifice. 3, 4. Al -Deir Monastery
Al-deir - the monastery Al-Deir itself is cut into the mountainside but not dominated by it. One really needs to see a human figure at its base to appreciate the huge scale of the largest facade in Petra. The doorway alone is over 8 m high. The temple/tomb is devoid of decoration, but is striking in its simplicity and magnitude. It was an extremely important site for pilgrimages with its carefully orchestrated processional way
terminating in the vast open area in front. A short way beyond, one is rewarded by magnificent views from a new perspective in the direction of the Wadi Araba to the west. It is a tiring climb, but thanks to the other monuments to be seen en route, the mountain scenery and splendid views, the climb is definitely worthwhile.
This sandstone marvel has made it to the new Seven Wonders of the World and it’s not difficult to see why. Petra sights are at their best in the early morning and late afternoon. When the sun warms the multicolored stones, one can view the majesty of Petra as it was seen first when discovered. At these times of day, it feels as if one has walked into a dramatic scene from a movie. Petra is always breathtaking, and never to be forgotten. This sandstone marvel has made it to the new Seven Wonders of the World and it’s not difficult to see why. Still, one has to see it to believe it and see it one must. TIMES MAR - APR 2010
82 |
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
| 83
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
perfecttaKeAWAYS
84 |
www.nextyatra.com
Khukuri Uniquely Nepali
Text by Prasanna Pandey
P
“
arashuram Thapa of Sindhupalchowk had invited me to come and attack Nepal, but at the same time he had sent his younger brother west of Gorkha with the instructions to gather a hundred-thousand by inciting the BaisiChaubisi states to attack Gorkha from behind, and I learned that they were quartered in Hatiya of Pokhara. And I asked them – “Who among you can go and kill him?” No one could find a person suitable, so I said—”Perhaps Jhangal Gurung can,” and sent for him and gave him the short-
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
sword on my waist, so he went disguised as a gaine singer with fishhooks in hand and a sarangi (a traditional stringed instrument played like a violin) under his arm and a 2-4 dharni (ancient Nepali measuring unit) Mahseer sahar fish, and as the troops in Thapa’s camp rested to eat their morning rice, Jhangal Gurung sought an opportune moment and decapitated Thapa. After thusly securing the rear and ridding of all obstacles by taking in hand the people of the east and the west, I conquered Nepal.”
This excerpt is from Dibya Upadesh, an autobiographical account narrated by King Prithivi Narayan Shah, the unifier and founder of modern Nepal. Dibya Upadesh mostly relates the ideas and stories as told by the king on how he was able to unify more than fifty independent city states and give an identity to a nation of this rugged Himalayan Republic in the mid eighteenth century. Prior to the use of firearms in the early 18th century, the Gorkhali soldiers or Gurkha
perfecttakeaways | 85
www.nextyatra.com
History of Khukuri
Through the Gurkha warriors, the uniquely tapered blade of the Khukuri has gained popularity all over the world and it is as much a part of our identity as it is a mere fighting apparatus.
The origin of Khukuri is speculated to be derived from the ancient cavalry sword of Macedonians called the Machira. The troops of Alexander the Great wielded the Machira when it invaded Northwest India in the 4th century BC and that particular technique of sword making is believed to have been adapted by local black smiths. Another speculation about its origin arises from local history with historians who believe that Khukuri had been in use in the Kirat Dynasty as far back as during the 7th century and with the Malla kings in the 13th century. The oldest known Khukuri in Nepal is on display at the National Museum in Chhauni. It belonged to Drabya Shah, the founder of the kingdom of Gorkha and is dated 1627 AD.
warriors were armed with Kora (also referred to in old texts as Khura or Korna). It was a short sword with blades of varying length and width. This Khura was believed to be the true native weapon of Nepal and was mostly worn across the back or on the left side with the sling draped above the chest or over the left shoulder. It was used as an auxiliary weapon and was stuck in the fighters sash directly in front of his body. The indomitable spirit of the Gurkha warriors and their fearless thirst for victory along with their valor in battle gave a new meaning to the art of war in this rugged mountainous terrain particularly in the Anglo – Nepal war in 1814 which greatly impressed the British and they started recruiting Gurkha warriors into their army. Through these Gurkha warriors, the uniquely tapered blade of the Khukuri has gained popularity all over the world and it is as much a part of our identity as it is a mere fighting apparatus.
Making of an Ancient War Apparatus There are two distinct processes involved in Khukuri making – the forging of the blade and the making of the scabbard or the sheath. The blade is mostly made with high grade carbon steel and the scabbard out of buffalo hide. The handle of the Khukuri can be made out of either buffalo horn or any type of hard wood. The blade is forged in a coal furnace with repeated blows from a hammer on an anvil to give it shape. A notch (kaudi) is drafted onto the blade and it has a practical purpose of catching an opponent’s blade during attack. The tempering of the blade is a delicate process and is done by pouring cold water from a kettle onto the hot blade along the cutting edge to give it strength. After tempering the steel, it is filed, sharp-
ened and polished. The handle is prepared by shaping and filing animal horns or hard wood and the tapered edge of the blade is inserted into the handle and fixed in place. The sheath is also prepared using wood or buffalo hide and it also involves a similar process of measuring, shaping and polishing to make it worthy of a finely polished blade. Finally, the blade is rubbed gently with oil and stored in the scabbard to complete the handmade process. The scabbard of each Khukuri holds two small knives called Karda and Chakmak. Karda is a sharp knife used to hone the master blade and for small cutting jobs. The Chakmak, being rough is used as a flint stone to start fires.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
86 | perfecttakeaways
www.nextyatra.com
The Khukuri as a Souvenir The deeply ingrained cultural and religious significance associated with the Khukuri makes it a perfect choice for a souvenir. A longer version of the Khukuri is often used in ritual sacrifice of buffaloes, goats and sheep in annual festivals. It is found in almost every Nepali home and used as a multi-purpose knife for cutting grass, chopping wood, peeling vegetables, slaughtering game and skinning. It also provides security in its capacity as a weapon to
Through generations, Khukuris have gained popularity as the national weapon of Nepal and its production has been localized to districts such as Bhojpur, Dhankuta, Salyan; Bhojpure khukuri being the most popular and well recognized. Bhojpur is an eastern city in Nepal well known for its Khukuri craftsmanship. Bhojpure khukuri is not a military issue but is heavier than the standard blade Khukuri. The blade is 10 or 11 inches long with a 5 inch handle. The handle is made up of buffalo horn or wood and the scabbard is made up of buffalo leather. There are often engravings of dragons, temples or figurines of gods and goddesses on the blade and weighs about 750 grams.
The British Service No. 1 is the standard khukuri which is issued to the Gurkha soldiers in the British Army and it has garnered fame all over the world. The Khukhuri is used by the soldier as a self-guard or in battle. It is mandatory for British Gurkha soldiers, Singapore Police and Gorkha Reserve Unit in Brunei to carry this Khukuri. The jungle or the pri type Khukuri is used for jungle warfare by the Gurkhas. The shape and size of this Khukuri is similar to Service No. 1 but it is unpolished standard-sized Khukuri. Buffalo horn and hide are used for making handle and case respectively. It weighs about 700 grams with scabbard.
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
ward off wild animals in the jungle and an occasional thug. The versatility of the Khukuri as an all purpose knife and a weapon for security makes it an ideal possession for households and travelers alike.
Dhankute Horn Khukuri originated in Dhankuta of eastern Nepal. It has a beautiful scabbard evocative of nationalism since it incorporates hand inlayed brass depictions of Nepal’s National symbols such as the national flag, national bird (Lophophorus), Crossed Khukuri and national fish (Asla) and the king’s crown. The scabbard is made up of wood or horn and the handle is made up of horn, wood or brass.
World War II or Dehradoone Khukuri originated in Nepal but was later used by the Indian and British Gurkha army. Before World War II it used to be forged in Dehradoon in India. This type of Khukuri is slightly bigger, heavier and more curved than the standard issue. The blade is forged from the steel used in railway tracks. The handle is similar to Bhojpure Khukuri and the case is made up of Buffalo hide. The handle is made out of aluminium, brass, horn or wood. This Khukuri is 16 inches long with 5 inch long handle and weighs about 750 grams.
Nepal Police type khukuri is the authentic Khukuri used by Nepal Police and the Armed Police Force. The shape of the blade is similar to Bhojpure Khukuri and it slightly heavier than the one used by the Nepali Army. The sheath is made from hide covered by cotton-wood. The blade is 9 inches long with 4 inch handle that is made up of rose wood. It weighs about 700 grams.
Cheetlange Special originates from a village by the same name and is a special issue Khukuri with narrow blade and a wide grip base. The blade is used for general cutting and light to moderate chopping. Kothimora Khukuri is a special khukuri made for retiring Gurkha or British Army officers. It is manufactured as a memento and has an especially designed scabbard of silver filigree and velvet background matching the color of the regiment. The regimental badges and the crown is mounted in the scabbard as well. The blade is found in varying lengths – the 10 inch standard Kothimora, the 11 inch Gurkha Badge Kothimora and the 14 inch Royal Kothimora. The Royal Kothimora used to be occasionally presented to royal families in Nepal and Britain and is amongst the most precious and desirable of all Khukuris.
perfecttakeaways | 87
www.nextyatra.com
Variations of Khukuri
Name Chitlange Khukuri
Name Dhankute Khukuri
Name British Service No. 1
Name Jungle Khukuri
Size 13 inch blade 5.5 handle
Size 5 - 18 inch blade 3 - 10 inch handle
Size 10.5 inch blade 5 inch handle
Size Same as british service no. 1
Price Range Rs. 2,200 to rs. 3,000
Price Range For 5 inch Rs. 1,600 For 18 inch Rs. 6,000
Price Range rs. 2,000 to rs. 3,000
Price Range rs. 2,000 to rs. 2,800 Primary Use Training Purpose in the jungle.
Primary Use Primarily Decorative Purpose
Primary Use Standard Khukuri, Ceremonial In British parade
Weight 900 gms
Weight Depends on size
Weight 700 gms
Name Bhojpure Khukuri
Name Nepal Police
Name World War II
Name Kothimora
Size 10.5 blade 5 inch handle
Size 9 inch blade 5 inch handle
Size 11 inch blade 5 inch handle
Size 10, 11 or 14 inch blade 5 inch handle
Price Range Rs. 2,500 to rs. 3,500
Price Range rs. 1,500 to rs. 2,300
Price Range rs. 2,500 to rs. 3,500
Price Range rs. 14,000 to rs. 25,000
Primary Use Normal General Use
Primary Use Police Use
Primary Use Used in WW II.
Primary Use As a Memento
Weight 750 gms
Weight 700 gms
Weight 750 gms
Weight Depends on size
Primary Use Cutting, Showpiece, Skinning and many other use
The versatility in types and uses of this multi-purpose knife make it an ideal souvenir that also has many practical uses. It can also be regarded as a symbol of national heritage and rich culture that defines life in Nepal. A handmade Khukuri is an affordable item that is evocative of all that is uniquely Nepal.
Weight 700 gms
Availabile at NEPALESE KHUKURI HOUSE PVT. LTD Amrit Marg, Thamel-29 www.nepalesekhukuri.com Also available at: Khukuri House Sat Ghumti, Thamel, Kathmandu www.khukuriblades.com Gurkha Khukuri/Khukri House Patan, Lalitpur,Nepal www.gurkhakhukurihouse.com
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
festivalwatch
88 |
www.nextyatra.com
A Beautiful Disaster
Text by Utsav Shakya | Photos by Rocky Prajapati
T
he Bisket Jatra of Bhaktapur in Kathmanu Valley is infamous for the inevitable fights that break out every year at this popular festival. This festival is celebrated on the first day of the Nepali New Year and is observed as an official holiday. Around two thousand years ago, king Bikramaditya started a Nepalese solar calendar. This is still the one that Nepali people follow today to keep up with the seasons and the many, many festivals that punctuate the year. This calendar is known as the Bikram Sambat. In Bhaktapur, 15 kilometers east of Kathmandu, the
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
New Year celebrations takes place with the grand and a bit rowdy Bisket Jatra. Who really wants a sober uneventful festival anyways? Bisket commemorates the Hindu epic, the battle of Mahabharata, with the wooden pole symbolizing the victory of good over evil. After two days, images of the Hindu god Bhairab and his female counterpart Bhadra are enshrined in two large, intricately decorated chariots and pulled through crowds of cheering on-lookers. This pulling of the chariot is what makes
the festival so popular amongst locals as well as visitors who come to this idyllic town to just watch the chariot make its customary rounds or maybe even get into the crowd and get an experience of a life time. The chariots parade the numerous idols of gods and goddesses between the sub-cities of Tigani and Nagadesh. The chariots are made solely of wood and jute rope. No metal is used in such a huge structure, every part of which represents a specific religious deity. On the eve of the Nepali
www.nextyatra.com
festivalwatch | 89
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
90 | festivalwatch
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES
festivalwatch | 91
www.nextyatra.com
An ancient festival, there is something very pure about the entire celebration right from its use of a chariot made with ancient methods to the pulling of the chariot around town. New Year, such a chariot with idols from numerous temples around Tigani together with a huge procession of devotees pulling it is moved towards Nagadesh. The chariot carries idols of Nil Barahi. Another similar chariot is also made ready carrying the idols of Ganesh in Nagadesh. The Sindur Jatra also called the Abir Jatra is started in Bode as the two chariots carrying all the idols of the area are paraded all around all the temples there.
the coming year. This festival goes on for nine days. A tall wooden ceremonial pole called yosin is also erected in one of the main squares during the festival. Amidst all the chaos, a part of the procession parading around Bode is the musical Dhimey Baja-playing ensemble. Consisting mainly of senior, seasoned musicians, the troupe may also sometimes make room for new members. Playing for this festival is a treat to any Dhimey Baja player.
An ancient festival, there is something very pure about the entire celebration right from its use of a chariot made with ancient methods to the pulling of the chariot around town. Red vermillion, a sign of purity and prosperity colors the air as the now huger procession starts the next journey. Before the chariots are pulled by the devotees, Chhyang - local liquor made of out rice is served all around. Tipsy or drunk youth then race through the narrow streets Bode pulling at the ropes tied to the chariot.
At the lead of it all, moving in a trance is a man with his tongue pierced with an alarmingly large piece of metal. This tongue piercing ceremony is what starts off the chariot in its journey on the eve of the 1st of Baisakh, the first day of the year. The procession ends at Tigne on the 2nd of Baisakh where the chariot that was brought to Nagadesh is returned.
When the chariot reaches the center of the town, a tug-of-war between the inhabitants of the two neighborhoods takes place. The winners of the tugof-war are considered blessed with good fortune for
Fights usually break out during the festival, the inebriated chariot pullers are a moody lot. Standoffs with the police also turn into a full blown riot sometimes. But amidst it all, there’s a sense of calm and a quiet that once can’t see but only feel, once you’re in the middle of things at Bisket Jatra.
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
92 |
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
| 93
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
events&tips
94 |
Places and Faces of NepalPhoto exhibition “Explore Nepal, Explore Life” When: 10th April -2010 Organizer: Tourism Development Endeavors (TUDE) , Baneshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal Where: Basantapur, Kathmandu Description: An amateur photo exhibition on places and faces of Nepal to promote Nepal tourism year 2011. Entries are welcomed till late of the March and are requested to contact TUDE. Contact:9841265165, dev.endeavors@gmail.com
KIMFF 2010 Submission When: 1st April-15th August-2010 Where: Himal Association (a non for profit organization), Patandhoka, Lalitpur Description: The 8th edition of KIMFF is supposed to happen from 9-12 Dec 2010 and the submission will start from the early April. The detailed information on entries guidelines is available at www.kimff.org Contact: +977 1 5542544, kimff@himalassociation.org
Chandra Surya Musical Program-2067 When:17th April-2010(12:00-5:00PM) Where: City Hall, Pradarsani Marga, Kathmandu Description: Organized by Better World Family Nepal with the motto of “Music for Change & Development”, it supports the education for the first school in Ramechhap. Performances by national & international artists, Ani Choying Drolma, Kunti Moktan, Pramod Nirwan, Paribartan and others including dance, food festival, mart mela, fun games drama and documentary screenings would entertain the audiences. Contact:4810163, 9751005424
Caucasian Chalk Circle Premiere When:23rd March -2010, 5:30PM Where: Gurukul Theatre, Kathmandu Description: Directed by Max Webster and Mia Theil and translated by Bhimlal Aryal on the script of Barlett Brecht the play is being played for the first time presenting the diverse dramatic field with a range of scenes expecting audiences to be entertained. Contact:4810163, 9751005424
MAR - APR 2010
TIMES
www.nextyatra.com
Roles of the Indian Film Heroine The Changing Ethos 1957-2005 When: 14th April- 18th April Where: Nepal Tourism Board-NTB Description: Celebrating the changing ethos of Indian cinema Heroines, Indian Cultural Centre in collaboration with NTB, is organizing an Indian Film Festival this April. Contact:4412629(Passes can be collected from Indian Cultural Centre, Bal Mandir, Naxal on 11th/12th April)
God Lives in the Himalayas World Premier in Australia When: 25th March-23rd May -2010 Where: Melbourne: Daily from 25 March 2010 @ Greater Union City Cinema, 131 Russell Street, Melbourne Brisbane: Daily from 15 April 2010 @ Birch Carroll & Coyle Brisbane City Regent, 167 Queen Street Brisbane Sydney: Daily from 6 May 2010 @ Beverly Hill Cinema, 447/453 King Georges Road, Beverly Hills Description: Directed and script by Sanjay Srinivas, the motion film is uniquely presented unfailingly, the unique aspects of Nepal, its rich culture, it’s wonderful people and the extraordinary benevolence of nature gifted with a vision that is both energizing and exciting. Contact: 0414 724 042, +61 414 724 042, info@godlivesinthehimalayas.com, info@solangture.com, www.solangture.com
ICIMOD Photo Contest – Mountain Biodiversity Submission When: 10 May 2010 Organizer: International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) Description: With the slogan ‘Biodiversity is life. Biodiversity is our life’, ICIMOD calls submission for the Photo Contest on the biodiversity of the Hindu Kush Himalayan region and its role in people’s lives which reflects the theme for the International Day for Biological Diversity - 22 May 2010, ‘Biodiversity, Development and Poverty Alleviation’. Contact: photocontest@icimod.org, http://www.icimod.org/photocontest/2010/
South Asia China Trade Fair When: 8th April- 11th April Where: Bhrikutimandap, Exhibition Hall Description: Organized by Nepal-China Executives Council-NCEC, to promote the South Asian and China Trade at the same platform with 150 stalls exhibiting various range of trade and tourism market. Contact: 4117101
KJC Chevrolet Concert Series When: 27th March-2010(2:30-5:00PM) Where: KJC Moksh Auditorium, Jhamsikhel, Lalitpur Description: Enjoy performances by KJC Choir, KJC Big Band & Mariano Abello Quartet and other great performances. Contact: 5013554 (Free Entrance)
Art of Living course for all ages
World Expo 2010 Shanghai, China When: May 1st – October 31st -2010 Where: Shanghai, China Description: World Expo 2010 Shanghai, China with the theme “Better City, Better Life” providing great example of sustainable and harmonious living organized under 5.28 sq.km. ( largest exhibiting area in the history) will exhibit expo’s, event and many others . Contact:8621-22062010, Fax: 8621-22060670, http://en.expo2010.cn/
When: Starts every Monday Where: Dil Niwas, Chhakubaku Marga-132, New Baneshwor, Kathmandu Description: Know Breath , Know Life No Breath, No Life. Self-development and stress elimination programs that empower people to face life’s challenges gracefully. These workshops equip the participants with skills, and techniques that enhance the quality of their lives. Contact: 9803039750, yes.in.nepal@gmail.com, www.artofliving.org.np
To enlist your events in this section, mail us your details at
events@traveltimes-mag.com
www.nextyatra.com
| 95
TIMES MAR - APR 2010
96 |
MAR - APR 2010
www.nextyatra.com
TIMES