Epikouria spring summer 2014

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Issue18 Spring / Summer 2014 www.epikouria.com â‚Ź6.50

Extra Virgin

ISSN 1790-5141

Peerless Oil and Olives



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editorial

Thank you, Mr. Samaras

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as reported by the newspaper Kathimerini on May 13, 2014, Greek prime minister Antonis Samaras stated that makers of traditional specialty food products can play a bigger role in Greece's economy, by bringing Greek products to international markets. "Today, 200 large companies account for 85 percent of production while 17,000 small and medium-sized companies have huge potential," said Samaras. If there were any upsides from the recent, slowly dissipating financial crisis in Greece, one would be this: to survive, many food-related firms turned their focus from the domestic market to the international stage. This is good news for for non-Hellenites, who now are thence given access to many of the best products Greece has to offer. Fir Honey, quality saffron, rare wines. Things you could only find in Greece, you can now find at gourmet markets around the world, prettily packaged and authentically delicious. Hopefully this trend will continue. Hopefully the Greek government will invest the resources necessary to help producers of fine food reach their full potential. One way they could help is by putting more muscle into protecting Greece's Product Domain of Origin (PDO) and other wholly Greek wares from unscrupulous foreign competitors. Yogurt maker, Fage, has shown what a strong legal action can accomplish. This past January, a British court ruled that Chobani, a U.S. brand of yogurt, cannot label its products “Greek” in the U.K. because the yogurt is, in fact, made in America. To be fair, the EU (presumably with Greek participation) has lately began a campaign to prevent US companies from using European trade names for certain cheeses, like Parmesan, Feta and Gruyere. The EU's argument for Feta is that “is so closely connected to Greece as to be identified as an inherently Greek product." Hear, hear! I would welcome a world free from Kraft's atrocious Athenos cow-milk "feta". I wonder why Kraft chose Athenos for a name, it doesn't sound very middle American to me. Surely they wouldn't be trying to convince consumers that their product is made in Athens, Greece? What would also be helpful to Greek producers of specialty foods, and other small and medium sized businesses, would be the creation of a fairer tax code and a far less onerous and Byzantine regulatory environment. Enabling a robust export culture – one which puts Greek producers at least on equal footing with their EU competition – should be the primary goal of this and any future Greek government. As Robert Picard wrote in Forbes, "Small and mid-sized enterprises (SMEs) have been continually overlooked in [Greek] government policy, partly because the dominant socialist party has traditionally focused on regulating large employers and providing extensive government employment. These blinders led policymakers and agencies to pay little attention to small business development, despite SMEs being recognized as having higher importance to economic developments in southern Europe than in other European countries." Apostolos Tsoukalas, former head of the governmental agency, Invest in Greece, concurs with Picard's assessment. When asked for comment at the writing of this editorial, he stated, "The Greek State should use its leverage in all international institutions and organizations in which it participates, towards enabling Greek products to become truly competitive in the export marketplace." He added, "The uncertainty created by an ever-changing, whimsically applied and cynically enforced tax and regulatory landscape grossly inhibits SMEs, including makers of traditional foods, from operating at peak efficiency." Hear, hear! Let us hope that Mr. Samaras meant what he said. We look forward to a Greek government committed to revising policies with the express goal of helping those 17,000 small companies (and other SMEs) reach their full potential. Ellen Gooch Editor-in-Chief 2

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contents

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News Bites Introducing the latest products from Greece.

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Extra Virgin Greece may be only the third largest producer of olive oil in the world, but 75% of that is extra virgin.

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Unusual Olives Green, Blonde and Black. World-Renowned or really rare, you can find them in Greece.

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The White Stuff Imbued with the flavors of the countryside, the creamy, soft cheeses of Greece are the perfect food for the season.

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Memorable Recipes Chef Andreas Lagos rolls in the dough and the lovely island of Samos.

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The Magic Tree It has been making history, and products, and pastries, for millenia. It is Masticha, and it only grows in Greece.

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Painted Lady Cover Photo George Drakopoulos Styling Tina Webb

10 + 1: Octopus A favorite pet of the sea god Poseidon, octopus could be considered Greece’s national dish.

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Last Look Greek coffee: Fortune in a cup.

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Advertiser Index page 6 Sourcing Guides page 44

Blue Nude II (1952) by Henri Matisse

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advertiser index

AROSIS

SEVITEL

Organic Pulses, Ready meals www.arosis.gr cover

Feta, white cheeses, spreadable cheeses, yellow cheeses www.arvanitis.gr 23

Greek Association of Industries and Processors of Olive oil www.sevitel.gr 13 WINE ROADS OF NORTHERN GREECE Association of Wine Producers of the Vineyards of Northern Greece www.wineroads.gr 43

EPICUREAN G.P.

ZANAE MEDITERRANEAN DELICATESSEN

Wine www.epicurean.gr 1

Mezes products, ready to serve meals www.zanae.gr 9

Back

ARVANITIS S.A.

HAITOGLOU BROS S.A.

Sesame, Halva, Tahini, Sesame oil www.haitogloubros.com cover

Inside back

KARDASI DISTILLERY - WINERY

Tsipouro, Ouzo, Brandy www.tsipourokardasi.gr 41 KRONOS S.A.

Canned fruit www.kronos.com.gr 25 LADI BIOSAS

Extra virgin Olive oil www.ladibiosas.com 7

recipe index DELICIOUS SOFT CHEESES

Crêpes with Manouri and Mushrooms

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Cheese Pie with Mizithra

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MINERVA S.A.

MEMORABLE RECIPES

Olive Oil, Olive pastes, Margarines, Butter, Seed oil, Cheeses www.minerva.com.gr 3, 5

Xerotigana (fried dough)

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Kourambiedes with dried figs

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Moustalevria with basil

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Salted Tsipoures with bergamot salsa

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ROUSSAS S.A.

Feta, white cheeses, spreadable cheeses, yellow cheeses, haloumi www.roussas.gr Inside frond cover

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Trahana (pasta made of fermented milk and wheat) 37 MARVELLOUS MASTICHA

Trip to Valencia

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Founder Triaina Publishing – Kyriakos Korovilas Publisher Nikos Korovilas Editor-in-Chief Ellen Gooch Editor-at-Large Diane Pappas Em Smith-Hughs Art Director Diana Dadaki Assistant Editor Diane Pappas Photos George Drakopoulos Food Styling Tina Webb Publishing Advertising Manager Katerina Gitsi Information Technology Philippe Watel Accounting Niki Gavala Triaina Publishing Offices: 110, Syngrou Avenue 117 41 Athens (4th floor) Tel.: +30-210-9240748 Fax: +30-210-9242650 www.epikouria.com e-mail: info@epikouria.com COPYRIGHT 2014 Triaina Publishing (ISSN 1790-5141), all rights reserved. Epikouria is a trademark of Triaina Publishing. Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited without written consent. Epikouria assumes no liability for either the content or presentation of advertisements.

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News bites from Greece By Em Smith - Hughes

Feel the Crete Creteleon is a premium extra virgin olive oil made with care by a family of Cretan origin. Generations old, the recipe emphasizes Greek quality and its organic products. The large container is just one of the many factors that proves Creteleon is serious about good olive oil. www.creteleon.com

G.E.T. it Together Another organic extra virgin olive oil has hit the Greek market. G.E.T. stands for Greek Exquisite Tastes, and that is certainly the case with the range of flavors in a single oil. The fruity notes, along with slight bitterness, and a spicy aftertaste, satisfies every possible expectation for those who expect the best from Grecian products. greekexquisitetastes.com 8

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news Beloved Oil A total of 42 olive oil producers joined together to create the ultimate extra virgin with Monakrivo. This line includes three separate flavors: the velvety Limnes, the fruity Afanoules, and original Organic. With an olive oil for every taste, it’d be silly not to give the award-winning Monakrivo a try. www.monakrivo.com

Ancient Virginity Don’t let the name fool you – this variety of extra virgin olive oil is especially fresh due to careful harvesting and the cold extraction process. Its production and packaging are inspired by the history of Kotsonis Estate and Mycenaean vessels used for oil storage in ancient times. Sit back, read The Epic of Gilgamesh, and take yourself back with 3000 BC. www.thekotsonisestate.gr

Menage of Paté Eon Flavours also announces a selection of three patés, using all natural ingredients. Consisting of a vegetable paté, a paprika paté, and a sundried tomato paté, the trio uses produce that has been dehydrated at the peak of its freshness. The variety in this package gives you exciting options to choose from, what’s not to love? www.eonflavours.com 10

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news

Happy Hibiscus Dinapoja has added a new syrup to their line of handmade products from fresh fruits, herbs, and flowers of Crete. Free of additives and preservatives, this syrup is perfect for hot or cold beverages, in winter or summer, as well as a great accompaniment to dessert, cocktails, and salads. The combination of hibiscus and rosemary in the syrup has plenty of health benefits in addition to tasting great. Be happy and healthy when adding hibiscus syrup to your favorite drinks and desserts. www.dinapoja.com

Grecian Meal Saravelos introduces an all-natural meal made of the finest of Greek raw materials. Made of sea salt, eggs, and extra virgin olive oil, the meal stays fresh up to ten months without the use of preserves or additives. The meal is an absolute staple for any Mediterranean kitchen and Grecian cooking. www.saravelos.eu

Enjoy for Eons The deep green and golden hue make Eon Extrissimo extra virgin olive oil unique in appearance and taste. The balanced flavors are smooth and fruity with a robust aroma, similar to freshly mowed grass. The low acidity make Eon ideal for nearly any culinary need. Don’t let the interesting look and smell scare you off from enjoying this olive oil. www.eonflavours.com 12

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news Shine Bright Ela Gold does not disappoint with their new sparkling wine infused with 23 karat gold flakes. Said to have nutritious, therapeutic, and cosmetic properties, edible gold is one of the most fascinating ingredients to find its way into wine. Because Ela Gold is produced in low quantities, it is certainly an experience you will treasure. elagold.gr

The Star of Pom Your new favorite jam has officially been born. Made of 65% natural pomegranate puree, Rodi Hellas introduces a jam into their line of pom-tastic products. Add some pom into your routine this summer to gain a little extra vitamin C. Out with the old fruit preservatives, and in with the new! www.rodihellas.gr

What a Wine Epicurean introduces a new line of 6 wines to wine-lovers everywhere. All of them are born of native Greek grape and PDO certified. Whether you’re in the mood for white, red, aged, or otherwise, Epicurean presents options to accompany any meal. www.epicurean.gr

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Precious Pescatarian Kallimanis is at it again with their new variety of frozen fish – easily baked or microwaved for your convenience. The packaging includes a vented bag which keeps the dish moist as well as the kitchen neat. The use of traditional Greek recipes in their products assures an authentic taste, every time. www.kallimanis.gr

Wonder Lemon Mylelia brings a new pasta into their family of 40 different varieties with Lemon Tagliatelle. Made with durum wheat milled under low temperatures, the Tagliatelle is air-dried and hand shaped to preserve authenticity. Quick, easy and delicious, you can’t go wrong with a pre-flavored pasta. www.mylelia.gr

Stupendous Salami Tsianavas has teamed with food technology experts to develop an environmentally innovative salami. Infused with olive polyphenols, the salami is preservative-free and full of antioxidants. Unlike typical processed salami products, this one is actually good for you. Let Tsianavas show you that new things aren’t so intimidating after all. www.tsianavas.com.gr

Dragounis International Trade Ltd. (DIT LTD) Pesmazoglou 37, Kifisia 14561, Greece T: (+30) 694 6685980 F: (+30) 210 8071714 E: info@dit.com.gr www.ofelia.gr epikouria

O r g a n i c OliveOil O l i v e s Sundried To m a t o e s Premium Thyme Honey FreshPasta &Risotto Homemade Tomato Sauces Seasonal Jams Handmade H a l v a Authentic O u z o M a s t i h a L i q u e u r Tr u f f l e s 15


Cover Story

extra virgin By Ellen Gooch Photo: George Drakopoulos 1 Styling: Tina Webb 16

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ou’ve got to hand it to the Italians: they know how to market olive oil. Heaven knows they’ve had practice. Even Mario Puzo acknowledges this fact. What was Vito Corleone’s legitimate business in The Godfather? Importing olive oil. The problem with Italian olive oil, especially extra virgin, is that much of it isn’t Italian at all. A good deal of it isn’t even extra virgin – and some of it isn’t even olive oil. Paul Armas Lepisto, Director The Olive University in Italy, acknowledges this. He wrote: “When you consider the fact that oil is rarely sold as anything other than extra virgin, yet the majority of the oil on the market is of a lesser quality (and when one considers how expensive a true extra virgin is to produce)…, I think some suspicion is warranted.” Italy does make excellent oils. But as Tom Mueller wrote in the August 13, 2007 issue of the New Yorker, entitled “Slippery Business – The Trade in Adulterated Olive Oil”: 'Fraud is so widespread that few growers can make an honest living”. Mueller goes on to state that the adulterated oil business is more lucrative than dealing heroin (plus, you’re not as likely to get shot).

Extra-virgin Land

Greece is the third largest producer of olive oil in the world. It is, however, the largest exporter of extra virgin olive oil. 75% of its olive oil is extra virgin, a far greater percentage than any other country. Most Greek olive oil is exported to European Union (90%) of which 80% in bulk and only 10% brand name (as of 2009, according to FAOSTAT). Greece’s ability to produce extra virgin is partially because the terrain is not conducive to harvesting by mechanical means. Instead, most of the olives are harvested by hand, which reduces the potential for bruising. Bruised fruit becomes bitter fruit. There are few large groves in Greece. Most of the production, though, comes from small plots. These, theoretically, must register the number of trees they cultivate and the estimated output expected from these trees. Such bureaucracy is proscribed by European Quota rules so complex that it would be cruel to describe them here in full. At harvest, each grower brings their fruit to one of the 3,000 or so local mills. Sometimes they make just enough for family and friends. Sometimes they make more. Those that make more make their oil available to the “markets”. Regional, these local markets consist of large exporters and/or brands and one or two brokers. Small producers who sell to buyers other than these established buyers risk being ostracized by the established buyers in subsequent seasons. It should also be noted that, generally, mills receive a fee as well as a percentage of the product of the harvest. Some of the small producers, for various reasons, band together into one of the more than 60 cooperatives. Greek olive oil varies in taste depending on the varietal used (there are many of them – from Kalamata to Mavrelia), and the region in which it is grown. Many olives used to

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Cover Story

make table olives are also used to make olive oil, mostly because it is easier to make top grade olive oil from them than top grade table olives. Some of these oils are fruitier, some grassier and some taste like artichokes on the finish. There are plenty of options to choose from. Whatever option chosen, it is a good bet that Greek olive oil purchased from a reputable source – which is easily verifiable – is the same oil the producer feeds his family. And other Greek families as well: Per capita, Greece has the highest consumption in the world, quaffing 23 liters per person per year The US is the biggest importer of olive oil in the world (38.4%) You would think that more enterprising importers would avoid the middlemen and build lasting relationships with oil producers. It’s not like it is difficult to ship from Greece. Chefs, Importers: if you want help finding the right source for your olive oil in Greece, drop us a line. We’d be glad to help.

Grades of Olive Oil

As defined by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), following are the grades of olive oil with additional explanations (the US does not acknowledge these grades nor require that labelling adhere to the definitions as standardized by the IOOC).

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Produced by the first pressing of the olive fruit through the cold pressing process (either traditional or centrifuge) with an acidity of less than 0.8% and possessing a ‘superior’ taste.

Virgin Olive Oil: Also cold-pressed. The fruit, however, is of inferior quality, which leads to a higher acidity level (less than 2%). Also must possess a "superior" taste.

Ordinary (virgin) Olive Oil: A lesser quality oil with an acidity of less than 3.3%. Any oil with a greater acidity is deemed unfit for human consumption unless refined.

How to Tell a Fake Olive Oil and other tips 1. Real olive oil will always have a peppery bite. It will also be a bit bitter and smell of olives. 2. Olive oil has a shelf life of about 18 months. Always check the production date (which generally falls between November and January in the northern hemisphere) before buying. 3. Olive oil should be stored in tinted glass, stainless steel or porcelain containers. Never store in plastic containers, as the oil can absorb PCVs. Store the oil away from light; light, along with heat and air, can turn the oil rancid. Do not refrigerate fine oils as they can lose their flavor. However, olive oil is ideally stored at 57 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you have a wine fridge, you can store it there. 18

Refined Olive Oil: A tasteless olive oil, refined, but with a low acidity (less than 0.3%).

Pure Olive Oil: Usually marketed just as "olive oil", it comes from the second cold pressing of the olive fruit or from a chemical extraction of the olive mash. It also may be a blend of oil obtained from the second cold pressing and a finer grade of oil. It has a higher smoking point than extra virgin or virgin oil.

Refined Olive/Pomace Oil and Olive/ Pomace Oil: Not something anyone who reads this magazine would ever think of consuming.

Light Olive Oil: While the name suggests a sort of diet olive oil, this oil in fact contains the same number of calories as its "regular" cousins. It is made from oil so bad that it must be chemically processed to be edible. epikouria


Letter from a Greek Grove By Tim Kamarianakis, Artemis Olive Oil

Olive oil is undoubtedly one of the best foods readily available to us. Its daily consumption has been scientifically proven to benefit a host of ailments and to shield the body against disease and aging. The micro climates and harsh terrain of Greece offer the best results for olive oil production. Entire regions produce extra virgin oil with less than 0.5% acidity, and polyphenol contents that are the envy of the Mediterranean. It is these same micro-climates and enclaves of cultivation that produce olive oil of extrao rdinary quality and purity, factors that have until now been attributed to 'Italian' olive oil. Over the last few years, consumers and retailers have begun to realize that amongst the olive oils on offer, the most sought after category is extra virgin from Greece, which in addition to the topographical and climatic benefits, also enjoys the tradition of olive cultivation that dates to the Bronze Age, and local varietals that offer a wide organoleptic diversity. In recent years, organic cultivation has expanded and there are a few farmers in Greece who have extended this philosophy to their olive groves. Unsurprisingly, the results are astonishing. The devastating fires that scoured huge areas of Greece in 2007 left behind a terrible loss of life and property, and for families to rebuild their lives there has to be economic growth and markets that will absorb these superior products. It was time for local farmers in the burnt areas to realize that a move towards organic farming methods would benefit their land and local environment, while, at the same time, boost the region economically in a way that conventional cultivation has failed. An opportunity that should not be missed. By the time the trees recover from the fire they could be certified organic, and the infrastructure for exports of this wonderful product could be in place and ready to support the local communities. The world is waiting. Let us focus on quality and prove that all our products are superior be they cheeses from the islands, wines from the mainland, or extra virgin olive oils from the rugged land that we have learnt to love.

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Cover Story

Unusual Olives By Ellen Gooch Photo: George Drakopoulos 1 Styling: Tina Webb

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WorldRenowned or Really Rare, You Can Find them in Greece The Real Olive Company, a Bristol-based specialty food wholesaler and retailer, does sell peppers, cheeses and vinegars. But, as its name implies, olives are the stars of the show. Partners Ben Slight and Karen Anderson take a personal interest in these drupes, traveling several times a year to visit their suppliers in Greece. These are mostly family-run concerns that use traditional methods of farming. “We do source olives from other countries,” says company spokesman Doug Storey, “but the bulk of our olives comes from Greece. The quality and the range there is just superb.” One reason for this high-quality may have been explained by the ancient agriculturalists, most notably Theophrastus. Theophrastus, Aristotle’s successor and the man credited with sending the first message in a bottle, believed that the olive tree would not thrive unless planted in close proximity to the sea. And if there is one thing Greece has, it is coastline. Of course, the abundance of warm sun, good soil and the lack of rain are also contributing factors.

Too Many Names

As to variety, there is indeed a wide assortment. The differences have to do with where the tree grows, when the olives are picked and how they are processed as well as with the cultivars from which they come. Conservolea and Kalamata are commonly grown cultivars for table olives. Some cultivars, like Megaritiki, Kothreiki and Thrubolea, are used for both table olives and olive oil. The fruit of these cultivars tends to be smaller. To make matters confusing, fruit coming from a cultivar from one region can look and taste completely different epikouria

than fruit coming from the same cultivar in a different region. Sometimes a “type” of olive may be named for its place of origin, sometimes for the kind of cure it has undergone and sometimes by the name of the cultivar. Never mind. Each region in Greece has a distinct name for each olive it produces which, because they really are all different, is warranted.

Picky Picking

Olives are harvested in the fall. Green olives are picked at the end of September to the middle of November. Blond olives are picked from the middle of October to the end of November and Black olives are collected from the middle of November to the end of January or early February. Greece’s terrain is mountainous. Many olive groves are located on mountain steps. This makes harvesting by machine well-nigh impossible. For connoisseurs, this is good news: almost all Greek olives are harvested by hand. This method causes the least amount of bruising to the fruit, resulting in a superior finished product. Hand harvesting is not easy and its mechanics haven’t changed much since Theophrastus’ time. Tarps are laid underneath the trees. A few branches from each of the trees are sawn off; this pruning is to ensure the health of the tree for future production. Olives from these branches are added to the pile. Then the remaining branches are beaten with a broom, sometimes mechanized. The branches, thus agitated, release the fruit. Some farmers, it must be said, toss some tarps under their trees and wait for Mother Nature and gravity to do the work. Needless to say, this isn’t the best, or (luckily) the most typical, method. 21


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Perhaps because olive harvesting is a labor-intensive and time consuming task, most olive groves are still small, family-owned concerns. This also affects quality. These trees are these farmers livelihood. If they don’t treat the trees well, next year’s harvest may suffer. And if they don’t treat the fruit of these trees well, this fruit will be worth far less at market.

ways: lye-cured, salt-cured, brine-cured, fresh watercured or olive oil-cured. Lye-curing is the fastest, most efficient curing method. It is also the worst one in terms of taste. Lye-curing leeches much of the olive’s flavor and can leave a residual chemical taste on the palate. Natural curing, represented by the other four methods, is far more desirable.

In some areas, grove owners band together into cooperatives, many of which enforce quality controls. These individual landowners and cooperatives may cure some, all or none of their own olives. Excess or total yield may be handed over to another entity for curing and packaging. The best of these entities develop strong relationships with their olive suppliers. They care about quality, from the raw good to the finished form.

In salt-curing (also known as dry-curing), the olives are packed in plain salt for at least a month. This, as you might imagine, produces a pretty salty (and wrinkled) olive. Brine-curing involves placing the olives in a salt and water solution (e.g. brine) for a few days or more. Fresh water-curing is achieved by rinsing the olives and soaking them in a succession of baths; the water is changed each day. Oil-cured olives, the rarest, are placed in tubs of olive oil and allowed to cure for several months. Cured this way they offer a sweet, mild taste.

The Cure

With one exception (Thassos Olives), olives are inedible when picked from the tree. This is due to the glucoside in their flesh. This substance makes them bitter indeed. To remove this glucodise and render the olive edible, the fruit must be cured. Olives may be cured in several

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Once cured, the olives may be left with their pits intact or unpitted. Unpitted olives may also be stuffed; with capers, with almonds, with pimentos – you name it.

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Olives for Everyone

Here, then, is a guide to some – but by no means all – of the more interesting table olives one can find in Greece. It should be noted that there can be several different spellings for many of the olive’s names. We chose what we believe to be the most common spellings.

Conservolea Conservolea olives may be the most versatile table olive grown in Greece. Known both by its cultivar name (Conservolea) as well as by any number of regional names, it is the country’s most commercially important variety. Unripe, Conservolea is deep green. As it matures it can turn any number of colors, from green-red and green-yellow to dark brown and nearly black. They are processed in both green and black form. Several versions of this olive have been accorded Protected Designation of Origin Status. These are: • Conservolia Amfissis • Conservolia Artas • Conservolia Atalantis • Conservolia Piliou Volou • Conservolia Rovion • Conservolia Stilidas

Kalamata Named after a south-western region in the Peloponnese, Kalamatas are Greece’s most renowned olives. Rich and fruity, these eggplant-colored drupes are processed only as a black olive. They are usually slit and preserved in vinegar and/or olive oil. Kalamatas also enjoy PDO status.

Nafplion Nafplion olives are grown in the eastern Peloponnese. Always a (slightly salty) green olive, they are picked in September when young and unripened and then cured in brine. A smaller-sized olive with a big nutty taste.

Thassos These are the only olives you may eat straight from the tree (and may be what gave our ancestors the idea that olives could be edible). Harvested when fully black and wrinkled, they are dry-cured then packed in olive oil. From the island of – surprise – Thassos in the northern Aegean Sea, these olives of the Thrubolea cultivar are meaty with a strong, rich flavor. Stafidolies olives are their cousins. 24

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Megaritiki Cultivated in the Attica region (where Athens is located), these may be black, dry-salted olives or green cracked olives. The green version can be known as Tsakistes, which are generally marinated in herbs and brine.

Halkidiki These olives come from the Halkidiki region in northern Greece, close to male-only monastery area called Mount Athos. A larger-than-average olive, they are also known as “gaidouria” (donkey olives) in much the same American’s can call large pills “horsepills”. Elongated with a prominent tip, these may be used for green olives – uncracked, cracked, pitted or stuffed – or for black olives.

Ionian From the Ionian Islands comes this bright green olive. Large and crunchy, they are cured in very light brine, giving them a mild flavor.

Hondroelia One of the rarest of Greek olives, Hondroelias come from Astros in Arcadia. Absolutely enormous (nearly two inches long), this is a blond olive that is traditionally cured in salt, sometimes for a full year. Meaty, mild and slightly bitter, Greeks call them “Olives for Heros.” Literally translated, the word ‘hondroelias’ means ‘fat olives’

Elitses Mostly grown for its oil, this olive is really small, so while there is more pit than flesh, what flesh there is sweet and fruity. These olives originated in Crete and can still be found there; locals tend to eat them by the handful, spitting out the tiny pits a la watermelon seeds. Unfortunately, they are pretty hard to find anywhere else.

Atalanti From the town of Atalanti in Eastern Greece, this medium to large green olive is pale and round with a complex, zesty flavor. A member of the Conservolea family, these olives have PDO status as noted above.

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Product Focus

Photo: George Drakopoulos 1 Food Styling: Tina Webb 26

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the white stuff delicious soft cheese By Lauren O’Hara

Mention Greek cheese to a non-Greek and they will probably only be able to name Feta, that luminous white, soft cheese found in horiatiki, the famous Greek salad. Or they will remember the Feta cubes preserved in brine and oil on supermarket shelves. But Greek soft white cheeses are much more than the ubiquitous Feta. Although many are unknown beyond Greece’s shores, they play an essential role in the cuisine and culture of the country and are as old as its mythology:

“...and he milked the sheep and bleating goats, let half of the white milk coagulate and set it away in tightly woven baskets for settling and firming…” - Homer, The Odyssey epikouria

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Consumed fresh, it is easy to spread and has slightly sharp overtones – refreshing and spicy. It was served to me in a small earthenware pot with a hard Cretan rusk and a glass of wine, a perfect warm-up to the main meal, sating our hunger while we ordered.

G

reeks love cheese. They make at least 62 distinct varieties. It is a core ingredient of most meals and, at 23kg per person, Greeks consume more cheese per capita than any other nation, including the French. Since cows are few and far between in Greece, almost all of the soft white cheeses are made from goat and sheep milk. The variety and subtlety of flavors reflect the various cheese making processes and the diversity of the flora and fauna of the Greek landscape – from the cooler northern mountains to the hot, drier islands. Cheese making is still very much a local craft, and knowledge is passed from one generation to the next. Soft white cheeses are used in many traditional recipes from hot filo pastries filled with horta (wild greens from the countryside) to stuffed squid, or are eaten on their own with bread or fruit. Many cheeses are made organically and have EU Product of Designated Origin (PDO) certification to show that they come from a unique geographical area with its own agricultural importance. Galotyri, a curd cheese from Epirus and Thessaly in mainland Greece, is made from sheep milk and, sometimes, varying amounts of goat milk. Because of its longstanding traditional crafting, Galotyri has PDO status. Old-timers still store it in a goatskin bag. 28

Anthotyro, a cheese similar to Mizithra, is made from varying combinations of unpasteurized sheep and goat milk and whey, with occasional additions of extra cream. Served young, it is traditionally rolled into cones or balls and has a texture akin to cream cheese. The flavors vary depending on the cheese’s origin, but it is generally a mild cheese with hints of herbs and an underlying fragrance of flowers. Perfect at breakfast, it is also popular as filling for tyropita, a Greek snack pie sold on most street corners. Cretan Anthotyro is renowned for its light, delicate texture and rich, barely-sweet flavor. Crack some fresh pepper over a mound, perhaps with a side of Cretan olives and a drizzle of Cretan olive oil, and you have a fabulous appetizer or a light meal. Even Zeus, who grew up in the mountains of Crete, was fed by the milk of a goat. To this day, Crete’s delectable soft cheeses remain part of the folklore and a central, nutritious component of local meals. I first tasted Anthotyro as a dessert served with fresh figs and honey. It had a smooth consistency that reminded me of Mascarpone, and the fig and honey accompaniments brought out a creamy, slightly lemony tang. Like many Greek cheeses, as Anthotyro ages, it hardens to a saltier, richer cheese, ideal for grating over pastas and vegetables. Manouri, another extremely popular cheese from Macedonia and Thessaly, is slightly firmer than Anthotyro. It still has a soft, light texture but can hold shape in slices or chunks and is sold in small logs. To produce Manouri, cheese makers capture the sheep and goat whey drained during Feta production and add extra cream (higher percentages than in Anthotyro). This gives Manouri a highly rich, full-fat consistency. The cheese melts on the tongue and is gentle on the palate. Use Manouri in dips with aubergines and other vegetables or layer it on crackers with a sharp relish or a drizzle of thyme honey. epikouria


Many cheeses are made organically and have EU Product of Designated Origin (PDO) certification to show that they come from a unique geographical area with its own agricultural importance epikouria

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Product Focus

O

n the island of Mykonos you will discover Kopanisti, a small granular white or blue-white cheese that is preserved in little terracotta pots. Produced entirely by hand, again with varying combinations of full-fat sheep or goat milk, Kopanisti stands out for the salt and ground pepper which are added just before the aging and curing process. Kopanisti is the result of a controlled and repeated fermentation, which is done through the care of the traditional cheese maker and lasts over 40 days. The finished cheese has a sharpness that is particularly delicious with a glass of Ouzo. Also made in the other islands of the Cyclades (each has its own special blend!), the cheese has been granted PDO status. Touloumotyri, produced in many of Greece’s Aegean islands, is a moist, soft cheese. A much scarcer relative to Feta, it is often ripened in goat hide (touloumi), hence its name. While similar in texture to Feta, it emerges from the curing process slightly sweeter and can be pure white or, at higher acidity levels, a light pink. Touloumotyri is one of the oldest cheese varieties in Greece. Travel in Greece and you will soon hear the unmistakable sound of tinkling bells as goats clamber up hillsides or are herded along country lanes. Since most of the sheep and goats roam freely, they eat whatever they forage. As noted in Giles Milton’s charming novel about cheese, Edward Trencom’s Nose, each household produces a cheese with a slightly differing flavor depending on where its livestock graze: ‘Ah, yes’, he said in a low voice. ‘That’s Touloumotyri all right. It’s one of

At 23kg per person, Greeks consume more cheese per capita than any other nation 30

Teodoro’s – and it’s a September cheese, definitely a September cheese.’ Goat's milk is rich in vitamins B1 and B3 as well as in minerals such as magnesium, potassium and phosphorus. Compared to cow's cheese, it is greater both in vitamin A and calcium by at least 10%, so it’s healthy too. Greece’s creamy white cheeses are as versatile as local ingenuity. From puddings to pasta, from baked meats to breakfast, they are used in every aspect of Greek cooking. The experimentation and alchemy of cooks continues to conjure new culinary delights from the cheeses’ delicate flavors. Inventive grandmothers and bistro chefs alike bring the flavor of the countryside to every table: the tastes of sun-filled days on meadows and mountains, and the lingering scents of herbs and wild flowers, olive trees and lemon groves.

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Crêpes with Manouri and Mushrooms Serves 4

Ingredients

For the crêpes: 2 cups (480 ml) milk ½ cup (120 grams) flour 3 eggs 1½ tablespoons (20 ml) olive oil 1 teaspoon (5 grams) salt 1 teaspoon (5 grams) dill, finely chopped For the filling: 1 cup (250 grams) Manouri cheese, cut into small pieces 2/3 cup (160 grams) mushrooms 2½ tablespoons (40 grams) onion, finely chopped 2½ tablespoons (40 grams) butter 1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine 1 tsp (5 grams) white pepper

Preparation Sieve the flour and add all the crêpe ingredients. Mix them in a mixer and sieve the mixture again to remove any lumps. In a crêpe fr ying pan, prepare the crêpes one by one: put a small portion of the batter in the frying pan and swirl it so it lines the pan. Cook until golden brown. Turn over and cook the other side only if necessary. For the filling, saute the mushrooms and onion in the butter and add the wine. Add the pepper and the chopped Manouri and mix until you obtain a uniform consistency. Fill the crêpes with the cheese mixture and place for a few minutes in a preheated oven. Serve the crêpes warm.

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Cheese Pie with Mizithra Serves 6

Ingredients

For the pastry: 2 lb (1 kg) flour 1 tablespoon (15grams) salt 1 cup (240 ml) olive oil 1½ cups (350 ml) water 1/4 cup (60 ml) Tsipouro 2 teaspoons (10 ml) vinegar For the filling: 3/4 cup (180 ml) milk 2 tablespoons (20 grams) butter 1 tablespoon (15 grams) semolina 2 tablespoons (20 grams) corn flour 1 lb (500 grams) Mizithra cheese 3 eggs white pepper to taste salt to taste

Preparation Place all the pastry ingredients in a mixer and blend until you obtain a soft pastry. Let it rest for 15 minutes on a sheet of plastic wrap. For the filling, boil the milk and butter. When it boils, add the semolina and stir with a wooden spoon until it boils again. Let the mixture cool. Put the filling in a mixer and add the remaining ingredients. Blend until you have a uniform mixture. Add salt and pepper according to taste. Roll the pastry into a thin sheet (roughly 1/5 inch or 0.3 cm thick). Brush the pastry with egg, and then fill it with the cheese mixture and roll it into a longish pie. Brush again with egg and sprinkle with sesame. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 30 minutes.

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recipes

I was born on the island of Samos and raised among lush gardens, and it was there that I cultivated memories that have sustained me and influenced me beyond any other source. When I return to my island, I also step back into my childhood. Into a period of my life which was simple, and organic. And to this day, the aromas of grape must, the aroma of the drying tomato paste and the smell of the first rains of September trigger memories. The aromas I grew up with are those of oregano, mountain tea, the wood of the olive trees and the cypress trees. Ingrained in my memory is the light perfume of the grass, the small yellow flowers, the blackberries and the hot beverage made from chamomile. In the evenings, when I walk down the streets of my island with my "parea" (company of friends), I can distinguish different fragrances. Each street has its own wealth of flowers and blossoms, beauty and aromas. My memory banks are full of times when we cooked by the seaside and under the shade of the blackberry trees way up in the mountains. The aromas of the wood fire oven, the dirostia and the heavenly smells which emanated from the electric and gas stoves are locked into my memory. And it’s these flashbacks of aromas and tastes that have influenced my cooking today. Having grown up in an environment of freshness, I am certain to use only the finest and freshest of Greek produce, vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices. I have taken liberties with old classic recipes and combined them into my own style of cooking. My passion is my cooking and I owe it all to my childhood. The remembrances of the tastes and the smells of the foods I was raised with fill my heart and soul with joy!

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Memorable

Recipes

Renowned chef Andreas Lagos puts in a cookbook his childhood memories of this beautiful island. Photo: Stavros Pechlivanides, Eleni Petalidou (Majeriko) Food Styling: Stavros Pechlivanides, Eleni Petalidou, Andreas Lagos

epikouria


Xerotigana (fried dough)

“Mom, it is my turn to fry the dough!” Hesitantly, she lets me have a go. I am careful not to splatter the hot oil as I cautiously drop the dough into it. As the dough rises and takes shape in the hot oil, I excitedly start jumping, hopeful that mine will be the best… and for some reason they always are!

Serves 6

Ingredients 2 eggs 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon Greek vanilla powder 170 grams all purpose flour, sifted 300 grams organic milk olive oil for frying petimezi (Greek grape syrup) almonds, coarsely chopped and toasted black sesame seeds

Preparation In a bowl add the eggs, the sugar and the vanilla and whisk together. Add the sifted flour and alternate with the milk and continue whisking until batter is smooth and has no lumps. Heat the oil in a frying pan and carefully put a clean whisk in the oil to heat. Remove the whisk and wipe with paper towels. Dip the hot whisk into the dough mixture and then directly into the hot oil. Let the dough begin to take shape and then carefully shake the whisk to allow the dough to fall away. Remove the dough when golden brown and allow to dry on a plate covered with paper towels. Repeat the procedure until all the dough is used. Place the xerotigana on a platter and lightly pour the petimezi over the dough. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds and black sesame seeds.

Variation: For chocolate xerotigana use 20 grams less of flour and substitute it with cocoa powder.

Andreas' cookbook "THE TASTES WE GREW UP WITH" is published by Ellinoekdotiki.

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33


recipes

Kourambiedes with dried figs

The best dried fruit by far is the dried fig. Sundried on the roofs of the nearby houses and flavored with bay leaves …it is then shared with the entire neighborhood.

Yields 60 pieces

Ingredients

150 grams coarsely chopped dried figs 40 grams cognac 180 grams organic butter 130 grams of margarine 70 grams powdered sugar 1 egg 2 teaspoons Greek vanilla powder 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder 200 grams almonds, coarsely chopped and toasted 500 grams all purpose flour powdered sugar for the sprinkling

Preparation Soak the dried figs in cognac for 30 minutes and then puree in the blender. Set aside. In the mixer place the butter, the margarine, the powdered sugar and the fig puree. Beat on high until fluffy. Add the egg, 1 teaspoon Greek vanilla powder and the baking powder. Mix until well blended. Remove bowl from mixer and add the almonds and the flour and mix until the dough is soft. Form balls of dough (about 20 grams) and place them neatly in rows on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake the kourambiedes at 340°F (170°C) for 15-17 minutes or until golden brown. Carefully remove the warm cookies and place them on parchment paper which has been covered with powdered sugar. Let cool for 5 minutes and then generously sprinkle with powdered sugar which has been mixed with 1 teaspoon Greek vanilla powder, ensuring they are all totally covered. Place the kourambiedes on a platter and once again sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Variation: For dark kourambiedes use cinnamon and cloves. Instead of cognac use Greek coffee and in place of figs use dates.

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epikouria


Moustalevria with basil

I remember as if it were yesterday when I was a little boy and my father lifted me to look into a huge vat where they were making grape must. There, in the back of the room, was a large barrel for stomping the grapes and a large strainer to strain the juices. The whole experience was incredible! I felt as if I was dreaming! When the must was almost ready, we took some home for good luck. My mom was unbelievably talented when it came to cooking. Wow, what her hands could do with the grape must and 3 leaves of basil, the results were truly “out of this world�!

Serves 6

Ingredients

5 cups grape must 1 cup all purpose flour, sifted 200 grams ground walnuts 3 leaves fresh basil 100 grams walnuts, finely chopped 50 grams toasted sesame a pinch of cinnamon

Preparation Heat the grape must in a pot over medium heat. Add the sifted flour and continuously whisk until there are no lumps. Allow it to continue cooking until it becomes thick. Remove the pot from the stove and add the ground walnuts and mix well. Brush the paste with basil leaves for flavoring and then divide it into individual serving cups or into a big bowl. Allow the moustalevria to cool to room temperature and serve sprinkled with chopped walnuts, toasted sesame and cinnamon.

Variation: Mastic will give it another twist. Remember to use the 5/1 ratio of grape must to flour and add your choice of flavorings.

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35


recipes

Salted Tsipoures with bergamot salsa

“Fresh fish! Fresh fish here!� shouts the fisherman. His voice comes over the megaphone and awakens our entire village. We run down to the square to buy the fish in anticipation of our kitchens smelling like the sea. The small fish are headed for the frying pan, after being dusted lightly with hand milled flour. Their bigger counterparts are going onto the grill or in the oven after being doused with olive oil and seasoned with fresh herbs from our own potted plants and herb gardens.

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epikouria


Serves 4

Ingredients

1-1½ kilos tsipoures 3 lemons, sliced freshly ground pepper 1/4 bunch mint (leaves only) 1/4 bunch parsley (leaves only) 400 grams coarse salt 2 egg whites juice of 2 bergamot oranges zest of ½ bergamot orange 1 tablespoon honey 200 grams olive oil

Preparation Clean and wash the fish. Season the fish with pepper and fill their stomachs with the mint and the parsley. Line the stomachs with lemon slices and then cover the fish with a row of lemon slices. Place the fish in a baking pan lined with parchment paper. In a bowl beat the coarse salt and the egg whites until a paste forms. Spread the egg/salt mixture over the fish to seal them. Bake at 390°F (200°C) in a preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. In a jar, mix the juice, the zest and the olive oil, put the lid on and shake well. Crack the salt crust and carefully remove the fish. Pour the juice mixture over the fish. Note: By baking the fish in the salt crust, the fish stay moist and tasty.

Variation: Replace the bergamot orange with lemon and orange juice.

Trahana (Greek pasta made of fermented milk and wheat)

Every year the traditional gathering for the trahana making takes place on the spacious terraces of the neighborhood. There, gossip and laughter are exchanged. The strong aroma of the souring milk permeates through the nearby alleys and announces the making of the trahana. The trahana is laid out to dry on pure white sheets and lace trimmed tablecloths that were left over from weddings. The joke is one side of the cloths is used to dry out the trahana and the other side is used to dry out underwear!

epikouria

Serves 6

Ingredients

4 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 2 whole cloves of garlic 2 carrots, sliced 1 small potato, grated 150 grams trahana (sour) 1 small tomato 1 liter water (more or less, according to desired thickness) 250 grams of milk salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preparation Heat oil in a large pot. Add the onion, garlic, carrot and potato and sauté until soft. Add the trahana and sauté another minute. Add the tomato, the liter of water, the salt and pepper and the milk and cook for about 30 minutes until the trahana is soft. When the soup is finished, add 1-2 spoons of Greek yogurt or crumbled feta cheese. Add water if needed and bring to a boil before serving. Serve with toasted bread with melted kaseri cheese.

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product focus

The Magic Tree By Deborah Rothman Sherman

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epikouria


B

ack in the day, the sultan reserved the whole crop for the exclusive use of the Ottoman state. Those growers that kept even the slightest quantity for themselves were put to death. Those that so much as cut a branch from the tree that produced it were savagely tortured. Such was the allure of Masticha, a unique substance in the world and unique product to Greece – even more specifically, to the Mastichochoria region of an island in the North East Aegean called Chios. Residents of Chios can take particular pride in many aspects of their heritage. Birthplace of Homer (according to tradition), and site of a particularly gruesome battle in the name of patriotism (in the Greek War of Independence, 1822), the island is worthy of merit on history alone. But the mastic tree has been making history, and products, and pastries, for millennia. Its uses are myriad, its medicinal aspects legendary (and, of late, confirmed), and its status as a delicacy – in confections, in liqueurs, in cuisine – is unparalleled to the converted. The rest of you will at least become curious.

A bit about Chios

Chios has a population of 50,000. It is fairly central in the Greek archipelago and, relative to many other islands, is rather large (842 square km with a coastline of 213 km). Semi-mountainous, its landscape is varied – rocky and precipitous in the north, flatter in the south and east (with sandy beaches), with lush valleys and pine forests interspersed. Chios town is the capital and hub, though there are a multitude of other major villages and hamlets, some quite lovely. Due to its beauty and natural resources, historically Chios was very wealthy (according to Thucydides, Chians were the richest Greeks); centuries of occupation and war have marred this, but the vestiges remain. There is a large Greek Army contingent on Chios; due to its flat beaches, it is apparently ideal for invasion. Perhaps this is one reason it has remained largely undeveloped and free of tourists? Chios is famed for its ship owners (notably Onassis) and lovely countryside, but above all for the fact that it is the only place in the world where Masticha is produced.

Masticha

Masticha, or mastic gum, gum mastic, chios mastic, mastiha and any number of other names (pistacia lentiscus var. Chia scientifically) is a 100% Greek product and, as such, is registered by the European Union as PDO (PGI). It is a natural product that comes from Mastic trees, which

epikouria

are small evergreen trees native to the Mediterranean region, growing as far west as Morocco and Iberia and to the east as far as Turkey. Though the tree grows far and wide, the famed Masticha resin can only be produced from the Chios Mastic tree. Why only on Chios? Well, one would argue, much in the same way that a chardonnay grape in Chassagne Montrachet is unlike any other, it is the terroir – the land. Chios’ soil (with its lime content and high-drainage properties), the sun, the relative dryness, and the underwater volcanoes create an overall environment that cannot be replicated. Perhaps that is why it is such a fickle plant, unyielding of Masticha even if transplanted elsewhere on Chios itself. As you can imagine, this has been the subject of much research. Cultivated similarly to maple sap, it oozes out of incisions made into the bark of the tree. Though it is called “the tears of God” or “Chios Tears” because of the off-white, semi-transparent droplets it forms, it should rather be referred to as nectar. Indeed, its sweet and inimitable scent, exuded from the bark of the tree, is exquisite. It looks like rock candy. It comes in grades of purity, from one to five, with one suitable for immediate consumption. Other grades are processed for sundry uses, edible to industrial.

Foodies can delight

Its uniqueness alone makes us covet it! – but there are some fabulous ways to appreciate and enjoy Chios Masticha. asticha is used extensively in the production of alcoholic beverages, notably ouzo and liqueurs. Drink up! It is also used in sweets, candies, Turkish Delight (loukoumia), biscuits, ice cream, puddings, buns, and crackers. Sometimes it is even used in making cheese. It is wonderful when used as a crust ingredient for chicken and seafood. In the summertime, Greeks enjoy a Masticha drink called soumada – an elixir of almond milk, Masticha, sugar and water and sometimes a strong spirit called tsipouro. Another refreshing concoction is hypovrihio (which means submarine), prepared using a liquid form of Masticha, mixed with honey or sugar, and spooned into cold water. It sinks, hence submarine. Masticha is an important ingredient in Greek festival breads, including the New Year’s traditional vasilopitta (St. Basil’s Bread). The twisted tsoureki, produced yearround, is also Masticha-based (and it makes a wonderful french toast if it’s a little stale). Masticha also is essential to myro, used ceremonially in Greek Orthodox churches.

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product focus

Plus, it’s good for your Health

Trip to Valencia Eduardo Nono, mixologist at Rita bar around Milan’s Navigli canal district, created this cocktail using Roots Mastiha spirit. Artisanal tastes meet the world capital of fashion and design.

Ingredients

70 ml Roots Mastiha 40 ml Rose’s Lime Juice 15 ml fresh lime juice

Preparation Stir and strain and use an old fashioned glass. Top with Valencia bitter orange foam and garnish with a twist of orange.

It is perhaps the most famous indigenous Greek spice and is coveted in Cyprus and throughout Arabia. Arabs consider it a great luxury to flavor their food, sweets, even their milk with gum mastic; this fact is even referenced in their sacred books. The trees’ lentisk berries are used to flavor sausages; its leaves and stems are burned to smoke meats. The resin itself makes a fantastic chewing gum, which not only lasts a long time without disintegrating, it also freshens breath and whitens teeth. Step aside, Dentyne! Masticha was the chewing gum of the sultans and their harems. Imagine – the chewing gum of the kings. (Not coincidentally, the word “masticate” – chew – has the same root as Masticha.)

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Masticha is a traditional remedy for stomach aches and heartburn, and has of late been proven as a treatment and cure for peptic ulcers. It is believed that Hippocrates used it in this capacity. Christopher Columbus was also a strong advocate and believed it was a good treatment of cholera. Further, regular consumption has been proven to absorb cholesterol, reducing the risk of heart attacks and easing high blood pressure. It also helps reduce triglycerides and total lipid levels. Mastic oil has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, and as such is widely used in the preparation of ointments for skin disorders and afflictions, including eczema, burns, frostbite and cancers, and is also used in the manufacture of plasters. It’s not just good for your skin, it’s good for your hair as well, which is why that new darling of the cosmetics world, Korres Natural Products, has developed a special line of hair, skin and beauty care products based on the resin. And finally, as referenced above, it is excellent for oral hygeine, and has been proven to reduce bacterial plaque in the mouth by 41.5%. This explains why many toothpastes and mouthwashes have mastic as their main ingredient.

Where to find it

Masticha is produced exclusively by a cooperative known as the Chios Mastic Growers Association. The association handles all exports of the product as well as operates a store, through a subsidiary, called The Mastiha Shop. These may be found on Chios itself, as well as near Syndagma Square in Athens, Thessaloniki, Athens El. Venizelos International Airport and in Heraklion, Crete. Several herbal supplement makers offer processed products that use Masticha. The best, however, is to buy it in its natural form. Several companies import Masticha from Greece and sell it on the web. Alternately, you could pick it up at its source. Now that really would be a vacation that’s good for your health!

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10+1 things

Andrei Calangiu

octopus

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If you asked for octopus in an ancient Greek taverna, the waiter would have understood you perfectly, though he would have spelled it “Oκτάπους”.

Modern Greeks pronounce this delicacy oktopothei, but it means the same thing: 8 legs.

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An octopus is not a fish, but a mollusk that has – oops! – permanently misplaced his shell.

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Three ounces of cooked octopus contains approximately 139 calories and is a rich source of vitamins B3, B12, potassium, phosphorus and selenium.

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The coins of the ancient city state of Eretria in Evia depicted an octopus on the reverse, as the creature was the city’s mascot and protector.

In the Odyssey, Homer writes that the crew of the Argo ship was attacked by a giant octopus called Skylla. This may be the first scary giant octopus story ever.

Octopi are probably more intelligent than any other invertebrate. Neurons exist in both their brain and legs, making the later unusually autonomous.

Perhaps because of this intelligence, octopi are hard to find. Only by locating their “middens” (piles of clean shells), can their dens be found.

Voracious predators themselves, octopi are a favorite prey of Greek professional and amateur fisherman. Once speared, they are pounded repeatedly on rocks to tenderize the meat.

Another popular way to prepare octopus in Greece is to marinate it overnight in red wine; this further tenderizes the meat.

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The Greek sea god Poseidon was credited with creating the octopus, supposedly for its entertainment value.



sourcing info BIZIOS S.A.

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www.alterra.gr

HAHALIS DISTILLERY S.A.

BROTHERS NUT STORES

BIOAGROS

www.tentoura.gr

www.menexopoulos.com

www.bioagros.gr

PILAVAS

NIKOS TZITZIS & CO

FROZITA S.A.

www.pilavas.com

www.thegreeknutcompany.gr

FISH

www.frozita.com.gr

POLYKALA

NUTCO S.A.

ANDROMEDA GROUP

FRUCTA UNION LTD

www.polykalas.com

www.kalatheri.gr

www.andromeda-aquaculture.gr

www.fructaunion.gr

ROOTS SPIRITS

MORAITI BROTHERS S.A.

DIAS S.A.

FRUIT CENTER

www.finestroots.com

www.moraitisbros.gr

www.diassa.gr

www.fruitcenter.gr

SKINOS MASTIHA SPIRIT

OVAKIMIAN S.A.

HELLENIC FISHFARMING S.A.

GEFRA

www.myskinos.com

www.ovakimian.gr

www.helfish.gr

www.gefra.gr

STOUPAKIS CHIOS

SDOUKOS S.A.

FORKYS S.A.

KATSIAMAKAS S.A.

DISTILLERY S.A.

www.sdoukos.com

www.forkys.com

www.katsiamakas.gr

www.stoupakis.gr

VAMVALIS FOOD S.A.

G - FISH

MITROSILIS S.A.

TETTERIS DISTILLERY

www.pellito.gr

www.g-fish.gr

www.mitrosilis.gr

www.tetteris.gr

S.SPIRIDIS DRIED

GALAXIDI MARINE FARM S.A.

TRIKALA FARMS LTD

VANTANA

FRUITS & NUTS

www.gmf-sa.gr

www.trikalafarms.gr

www.vantana.gr

www.oskar.gr

INTERFISH AQUACULTURE S.A.

VENUS GROWERS

www.interfish.gr

www.venusgrowers.gr

KEFALONIA FISHERIES

ZEUS KIWI S.A.

www.kefish.gr

www.zeuskiwi.gr

NIREUS AQUACULTURE

SOULIS S.A.

www.nireus.com

www.soulis.gr

V. GEITONAS & CO, LTD

SYNERGATIKI S.A.

www.eelgeitonas.com

www.synergatiki.gr

FRUITS

OLIVES NUTS

AGRICULTURE OF ROVIES

ANTONIOS

www.roviesolives.gr

DELIPOULIOS S.A.

AGROMET S.A.

www.dekanuts.gr

www.banistradition.com

ANTONIO FOODS

AGROKAN HELLAS S.A.

www.antoniofoods.com

www.agrocanfoods.com

BALLY NUTS

ALEA S.A.

www.ballynuts.gr

www.alea-sa.gr

AGRICULTURAL

LIQUEUR

BIONOT

ARI S.A.

COOPERATIVE

D’ ARTEMIS –

www.bionot.gr

www.arifoods.gr

OF ZAGOR PELION

FILIPPOPOULOS VLAS & CO

EUROSNACK S.A.

ARTION GREEK FOODS

www.zagorin.gr

www.dartemis.gr

www.eurosnacksa.com

www.artiongreekfoods.com

AGRO HARA

AMORGION

HATZIGEORGIOU S.A.

BRETAS S.A.

www.kiwi-tsechelidis.gr

www.amorgion.gr

www.perle.gr

www.bretas.gr

AGROCOM S.A.

DINAPOJA

HARMONY - COUNINIOTIS

CRETA NATURA

www.agrocom.gr

www.dinapoja.com

www.couniniotis.gr

PRODUCTS www.cretanaturachania.com

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45


sourcing info CRETAN TASTE CO

OLIVELLAS S.A.

AMALTHEA LTD

G. BAKOURIS -

www.cretantaste.gr

www.olivellas.gr

www.amalthea.gr

Ν. BAKOURIS CO

D.E. GEORGOUDIS CO S.A.

PURE GREEK

ANDROULAKIS PAVLOS

www.bakouris.gr

www.olives.gr

www.puregreek.com

www.androulakisp.gr

GAEA

DANCO S.A.

ROUAL TSATSOULIS

ARTION GREEK FOODS

www.gaea.gr

www.danco.gr

www.royal.gr

www.artiongreekfoods.com

GREEK LAND FOODS LTD

DEAS S.A.

SEACRETS OF GREECE

ASTRIKAS ESTATE – BIOLEA

www.esti.com.gr

www.deasolives.gr

www.seacrets.gr

www.biolea.gr

GREEK TASTE

ELI S.A.

SIOURAS S.A.

BOTZAKIS S.A.

SUGGESTIONS – GTS

www.eli.gr

www.siouras.gr

www.creta-oil.gr

www.gts.com.gr

ELKO OLIVES

THIN GREEN

BRAHIMO S.A.

GREEKPOL

www.elko-olives.gr

NATURAL GOODS

www.brahimo.gr

www.greekpol.gr

EN ALMI

www.thinkgreen.gr

CANDIAS OIL

HELLENIC FINE OIL S.A.

www.enalmi.com

www.candiasoil.com

www.hfo.gr

G. BAKOURIS -

COOPERATIVE OLIVE OIL

KANAKIS

Ν. BAKOURIS CO

INDUSTRY “ANATOLI”

www.oliveoil-kanakis.gr

www.bakouris.gr

www.abea.gr

KEFALAS - SPARTA S.A.

HELLENIC FINE OILS

CRETAN DELI TASTE

www.organicvillage.gr

www.hfo.gr

www.cretandelitaste.gr

KOLUMPARI S.A.

HERCULES EXPORT

OLIVE OIL

CRETAN MYTHOS

www.kolympari-sa.gr

hrcexport@hotmail.com

“NEW ERA” AGRICULTURAL

www.cretanmythos.gr

LATZIMAS S.A.

ILIDA S.A.

COOPERATIVE OF

CRETAN TASTE CO

www.latzimasoil.gr

www.ilida.gr

GARGALIANI

www.cretantaste.gr

LIOKARPI PROTOGERAKIS

I. M. STROFILIA LTD

www.newera-gargaliani.com

CRITIDA S.A.

www.oliveoil-kreta.com

www.wermio.gr

AGREXPO S.A.

www.critida.com

LYXNARAS VERGINA S.A.

INDIANA HELLAS LTD

www.goumas.gr

DIAMOND MESSINIAN

www.verginaolives.com

www.indianahellas.gr

AGRICULTURAL

EXTRA OLIVE OIL

MEDBEST S.A.

INTERCOMM FOODS S.A.

COOPERATIVE

www.diamonolive.gr

www.medbest.gr

www.intercomm.gr

OF THRAPSANO

ELAIS – UNILIVER S.A.

MESSOLONGI FIELDS LTD

J. C. KOUTROGIANNOS

www.cretan-olive-oil.gr

www.elais.gr

www.messolongifields.com

CORP

AGRO.VI.M.

ELAION one S.A.

MINERVA S.A.

www.elko-olives.gr

www.agrovim.gr

www.elaion.com

www.minerva.com.gr

KAPA OLIVE FARM

AGROCRETA

ELEA CRETA

N.GERENTES S.A.

www.kapaolivefarm.gr

www.agrocreta.gr

www.eleacreta.gr

www.gerentesbros.com

KEFALAS - SPARTA S.A.

AGROKAN HELLAS S.A.

ELEOURGIKI CENTRAL

NUTRIA S.A.

www.organicvillage.gr

www.agrocanfoods.com

COOPERATIVE UNION

www.nutria.gr

KONSTANTOPOULOS S.A.

AGROTIKH S.A.

www.eleourgiki.com

OLIO GRECO S.A.

www.konstolymp.gr

www.agrotiki-sa.gr

ELGEA LTD

www.oliogrec@otenet.gr

KOUKOUNARAS S.A.

AIQ INTERNATIONAL

www.elgea.com.gr

OLIVE OIL SELECTIONS

www.koukounaras.gr

TRADE CO LTD

EVRIPIDIS S.A.

“MOLEON”

LADAS FOODS S.A.

www.aiq.gr

www.evripidis.com

www.oliveoilselections.com

www.ladasfoods.com

ALEA S.A.

FRIEDRICH BLAUEL

OLYMPIA – XENIA S.A.

ODISIA S.A.

www.alea-sa.gr

www.blauel.gr

www.olympia-oliveoil.com

www.odisia.gr

46

epikouria


PANTELOPOULOU

CHIOS SHOP

KAZAKIS LTD

DODONI S.A.

BROS “PANPROD”

www.gummastic.gr

www.ntolmadakia.com

www.dodonidairy.com

www.panprod.com

EURIMAC

MAGEIRA BROS S.A.

EVROFARMA

PELION BRAND

www.eurimac.gr

www.afoimageira.gr

www.evrofarma.gr

SAPOUNAS & CO

EVOIKI ZIMI S.A.

MAKEDONIKI

EVROKLIDON LTD

www.olivefood.gr

www.evoiki-zimi.gr

www.makedoniki.gr

www.evroklidon.com

PEZA UNION

GOUMENISSES

N. ONASSIS S.A. HELLENIC

FAGE S.A.

www.pezaunion.gr

oigoumenisses@yahoo.gr

CANNED FOOD INDUSTRY

www.fage.gr

PREMIUM QUALITY

HELIOS PASTA

www.onassis-foods.gr

FARMA PIERRIAS LTD

FOODS S.A.

www.heliospasta.gr

NORTH AEGEAN

www.farmapierrias.gr

www.pqf-oliveoil.gr

KAPLANIDIS MILLS S.A.

SEA CANNERIES S.A.

FRIESLAND

RAFTELI – PROTOULI

www.kaplanidis.gr

www.konva.gr

CAMPINAHELLAS S.A.

MARIA & CO

MELISSA KIKIZAS

PALIRRIA S.A.

www.nounou.gr

protoulh@otenet.gr

www.melissa.gr

www.palirria.com

INAHOS S.A.

SPEIRON

MELKO A.E.B.E.

PLIAS S.A.

www.inahos.gr

www.speironoliveoil.com

www.melko.gr

www.plias.gr

KOLIOS S.A.

TERRA CRETA S.A.

TA MYLELIA

SARAVELOS S.A.

www.kolios.gr

www.terracreta.gr

www.mylelia.gr

www.saravelos.eu

KOUKAKI’S FARM S.A.

UNION OF AGRICALTURAL

HRYSAFIS S.A.

SPITIKA TROFIMA

www.koukfarm.gr

COOPERATIVES OF

www.xrisafilimnos.gr

(HOMEMADE FOODS) S.A.

KOURELLAS S.A.

MESSINIA

VLAHA

www.spitikatrofima.gr

www.kourellas.gr

www.messiniaunion.gr

bekiaris@otenet.gr

STROFILIA – KENTRIS S.A.

KRI-KRI S.A.

UNION OF AGRICALTURAL

VOSTICHANA

www.strofilia.com

www.krikri.gr

COOPERATIVES

dgiov@teemail.gr

T&T FOODS S.A.

MEVGAL S.A.

OF MONOFATSIU

www.ttfoods.gr

www.mevgal.gr

www.monofatsiunion.gr

VIOSAL

MILK IN OF XANTHIS

VASILAKIS ESTATE

www.viosal.gr

RODOPIS S.A.

www.vassilakisestate.gr

ΖΑΝΑΕ - NIKOGLOU

www.rodopi-sa.gr

VINOLIO CRETA

BAKERY YEAST S.A.

NEOGAL DAIRY

(AGIA TRIADA)

www.zanae.gr

www.neogal.gr

www.agiatriada-chania.gr

READY MEALS

OLYMPOS S.A.

DOLANO FOOD

www.olympos.gr

www.dolanofood.gr

PAPATHANASIOU S.A.

EDESMA

www.papathanasiou-abee.gr

www.edesma.com

SERGAL S.A.

FAKOU BROS S.A.

www.sergal.gr

www.parnassos-foods.com

STYMPHALIA S.A.

FRESH GOURMET

www.stymfalia-sa.gr

PASTA

(CATERING)

YOGURT

TYRAS S.A.

ADAMANTINA HOUSE

www.freshgourmet.gr

AVIGAL S.A.

www.tyras.gr

www.adamantina.gr

GALITEL S.A.

www.avigal.gr

BARILLA HELLAS S.A.

www.galitel.gr

BIOPAN – KOURELLAS

www.barilla.gr

I.M. STROFILIA LTD

www.kourellas.gr

www.wermio.gr

epikouria

47


last look

Fortune in a cup

Greek coffee is an acquired taste. Extremely strong, it has the consistency of fine sludge and packs as much of a punch as two Red Bulls and a fistful of diet pills. Greek coffee is made by heating a mixture of ground coffee and water in a small conical pot with a wide lip and a large handle called a briki. This mixture contains about one espresso cup of water for each teaspoon of coffee. For a medium or metrios coffee, one teaspoon of sugar is also added to the pot. The contents of the briki is stirred once on low flame and then allowed to reach a boil. The coffee preparer must hold fast to the handle: once the coffee starts to boil, foam will begin to rise so quickly that the risk of a colossal spillover is high. When the foam reaches the lip of the briki, the preparer must immediately remove it from the heat and allow it to rest long enough for the grounds to settle. Thus prepared, the coffee is served in small cups (read: shot glasses). Each cup should contain a bit of the creamy foam (kaimaki). In addition to its benefits as a pick-me-up (and throw me over the fence), Greek coffee can be used to predict the future. Really.

48

First you must sip the potable portion of the coffee. Next, tip the cup to one side and turn it three times clockwise (incantations optional). Some sludge will spill out and the rest will be evenly spread around the perimeters of the cup. Excess sludge should then be poured out from the side where the cup handle is. Then turn the cup over on a napkin and leave it alone for a few minutes. Now it is time to read the future. Turn the cup upright. Symbols will be etched in the sludge. The bottom of the cup represents the past, the middle the present and the top the future. Symbols are of course open to interpretation (yours), but can include such things as rivers, the moon, animals, etc. Standard interpretations do exist: a nail represents injustice for example; a mouse, theft; a shell, good news. If you see an iceberg, an octopus or an umbrella (very bad), you may want to consider preparing another cup. A second consultation probably won’t improve your future, but by then you will be too hyped up to care.

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