PROCESS SETTING IN A SLEEVE
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1. Assemble all pieces needed for this procedure. You will need the jacket, a pair of sleeves, a pair of shoulder pads and sleeve roll. Place the jacket on the table. Lay the sleeves next to their respective armholes. N.B The shorter forearm seam is the front of the sleeve and the longer hindarm seam is the back. 2. Pin the sleeves into the correct armhole, matching notches and raw edges.
Š Karen Ferry and Rosemary White
3. Once the sleeve is pinned into place check the pitch of the sleeve on the stand. 4. INCORRECT PITCH: Sleeve swings too far to the front. 5. INCORRECT PITCH: Sleeve swings too far to the back. 6. CORRECT PITCH: Sleeve sits in a natural arm position.
PROCESS SETTING IN A SLEEVE
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7. Start sewing at the back notch and continue around the underarm and up towards the sleeve head.
10. Cut sleeve roll so that it sits 1cm below the back and front notches.
8. Ease the sleeve fullness between the front and back notches. Do this by easing the fullness between your fingers as you sew.
11. Pin the sleeve roll into position while extending the roll 0.5cm beyound the raw edge of the armhole.
9. Check the sleeve head is pucker free and smooth.
12. Machine stitch the sleeve roll following the previous armhole stitch line. 13. Clip into the sleeve roll so it curves around the shape of the inner sleeve.
Š Karen Ferry and Rosemary White
PROCESS SETTING IN A SLEEVE
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14. Position the shoulder pads. The punch hole on the topside of the shoulder pad should be lined up with the shoulder seam underneath. 15. Pin into place along the armhole stitchline. 16. Attach the shoulder pad to the armhole using a loose hand stitch.
Š Karen Ferry and Rosemary White
17. Turn through to the right side and check for a smooth finish. 18. Check front and back sleeve heads on both sleeves. 19. Check sleeve position on the stand.