Warsaw Insider June 2022 #310

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

CATCHING JUNE

Essential Warsaw for the month ahead – p. 10

#310

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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JUNE 2022 Features:

Also...

Warsaw’s best fountains and summer views – p. 10 What’s On: June happenings – p. 16 Rembrandt visits: The Polish Rider rides again! – p. 66

Redefining Fashion: Grażyna Hase exhibition – p. 63 A legend returns: Blue Cactus review – p. 46 Neighborhood watch: Saska Kępa food & drink – p. 34

Contents June 2022

Reviews: Syrena Irena – p. 30 hub.praga – p. 32 Neighborhood Watch: Saska Kępa – p. 34 Republica San Escobar – p. 36 Pollypizza NEOpolitan – p. 38

DISCOVER

Museum of Warsaw Grażyna Hase – p. 63 Rembrandt: The Polish Rider

COVER PHOTO BY ADAM BORKOWSKI, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

- p. 66

AS FAR AS OPENING ACTS GO, it’s hard to compete with the first days of summer – and with covid lurking around like a gatecrashing pest these past few years, this has the feel of the first proper one we’ve had this decade. So damn right, it’s not just us that are waiting to break out of the office and sit in a beer garden for five-days straight. Given all that, you shouldn’t be surprised to find that we’ve given summer our undivided attention this issue, dedicating all available feature space to what lies in store. But beyond all the sunny larks, we’ve also doubled down in our effort to increase our food and drink coverage, and evidence of that lies in another bumper set of reviews – bundled in those, we’ve snooped around Saska, taken a revised look at the F&B hubs that have changed the way we eat, and hailed the resurrection of a bona fide legend (that means you, Blue Cactus). And that’s not the only legend that’s made it back to Warsaw. Regarded as one of his most enigmatic works, this summer has also seen the return (albeit temporary) of Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Polish Rider – of course, we’ve got the story. In short, you should find enough to keep yourself from idle. Till next time, adios! Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Content Editor Krystyna Spark kspark@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

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B A R O Q U E T h e R o y a l

M U S I C C a s t l e

Alessandro

F E S T I V A L i n W a r s a w

St radella design by: Grzegorz Kołnierzak

19 – 26 June 2022

Concerts at the Royal Castle in Warsaw. Performances will also be relayed live online:

June 19, 7 p.m. •

June 22, 7 p.m.

{oh!} The Historical Orchestra

•

conducted by

•

• •

•

conducted by

Martyna Pastuszka, Dominika Małecka, Adam Pastuszka – violin Anna Firlus, Aleksander Mocek – harpsichord Jan Čižmář – theorbo Maciej Łukaszuk – cello

• •

Witosława Frankowska – positive organ Łukasz Macioszek – violone

Ensemble Mare Nostrum

June 26, 7 p.m. •

Andrea de Carlo

• • • • •

Silvia Frigato – soprano Federico Fiorio – soprano Matteo Strafﬁ – tenor Danilo Pastore – countertenor Masashi Tomosugi – bass-baritone

Ensemble Mare Nostrum conducted by

conducted by

Jana Łukaszewskiego

Martyny Pastuszki

•

Polski Chór Kameralny

June 24, 7 p.m.

• • •

Silvia Frigato – soprano Federico Fiorio – tenor Masashi Tomosugi – bass-baritone

Tickets are available at the Castle’s ticket office and at www.zamek-krolewski.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

In front

CITY

Turn It On! A new neon becomes the talk of the town…

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In front • news

he subject of much recent controversy, Warsaw’s longest operating cinema is looking replenished after being adorned with a neon sign modeled on the one that crowned it for several decades. Opened in 1930, Kino Atlantic has long been regarded as one of Poland’s most famous cinemas, with previous guests including President Ignacy Mościcki, Prime Minister Aleksander Prystor and the founder of the modern Polish state, Marshal Józef Piłsudski. Surviving the war largely intact, it reopened after the occupation on September 19th, 1945, with a screening of the Soviet

film Berlin. Completely remodeled during the 1950s, when it opened again in 1960 it looked utterly unrecognizable to what had come before. Looking more like a concrete carbuncle, it was nonetheless cited as one of the most modern such facilities in the country – and marking it out, was a splendid blue neon designed by Tadeusz Rogowski that gleamed over Chmielna. Recent years, though, have not been kind to the Atlantic, and its very survival has often hung in the balance. Under new ownership since 2021, Atlantic’s return to form now appears complete. Smaller than the original, and as yet unlit, the

new neon has been faithfully modeled on the original and has been welcomed by nostalgists across the city.

QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“The admirers of neo-Nazism have again shown their faces” Russian foreign ministry spokeswoman, Maria Zakharova, Russia’s foreign ministry spokeswoman, responding to news that Russia’s Ambassador to Poland had been drenched with red paint by protestors after attempting to lay a wreath at Warsaw’s Soviet Military Cemetery. “Cry me a river,” replied the rest of the planet.

The waiting game is over! For the first time in several dozen years, pedestrians are now finally able to cross Rondo Dmowskiego without having to revert to the spider’s web of underground passaged carved out beneath. Officially unveiled in May, four pedestrian crossings have now been revealed along with three bicycle crossings. Speaking at the ceremony, Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski said: “until now, the area was only accessible via underground passages. For the elderly, parents with small children in prams, and those with mobility difficulties, this made reaching the tram stops on Jerozolimskie and Marszałkowska impossible.” Adding to the beautification process, the area has also seen an injection of greenery: 20,000 plants have been planted as too have 53 trees.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

PHOTOGRAPH TOP NAC, BOTTOM UM.WARSZAWA

WALK THIS WAY!

In front • news

Wet, Wet, Wet The web goes gaga over an ambitious project that has reimagined the concrete-choked tundra that is Pl. Konstytucji…

THIRD TIME’S A CHARM Not bad at all, huh? Plans have been revealed for the first stage of M3, the third metro line that will span Warsaw in the future. Implemented in phases, the first step will see stations built at Dworzec Wschodni, Mińska, Rondo Wiatraczna, Ostrobramska, Jana Nowaka-Jeziorańskiego and Gocław. In accordance with the initial blueprints, these stations will follow a single design model that will see the introduction of grass-topped glass pavilions acting as entry and exit points. Moreover, designers have promised “bright interiors”, “wider platforms”, and “an intuitive approach” aimed at simplifying the navigation of any subterranean passages. As things stand, hopes are high that these stations could be delivered within seven years.

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lthough first published last year, a project envisioning Pl. Konstytucji as a lush, wild wetland has gained further traction after being seized upon by numerous local news sites. Submitted by a trio of students from the Polytechnic’s Faculty of Architecture, Śródmiejskie Mokradła was first aired by Futuwawa, a website specializing in showcasing often fantastical projects designed for this city. Authored by Jakub Bąbik, Aleksandra Krawczyk and Monika Popkiewicz, it was born after the three noticed the abundance of parking lots that dominated satellite imagery of the capital. “Such spatial management makes the city hostile to both animals and people,” wrote the trio. “Large car parks exclude space from city life, increase the urban heat island phenomenon, do not create conditions for retention and kill biodiversity.” Continuing, they say: “We believe that this urban error can be successfully repaired and such concrete stretches turned into urban wetlands. These areas would become green oases in the city tissue. We would introduce greenery to the city that is different from the lawns found in Warsaw’s squares; in addition to the trees and shrubs usually found in parks, there would be meadows, mosses, reeds, and aquatic plants.” Intended merely as a project to draw attention to Warsaw’s most basic faults, it has nonetheless won widespread praise for its clarity, ambition and over-riding relevance. And whilst it has been dismissed by some as verging on the absurd, others have pointed to the success of the London Wetland Centre, a 40-hectare reserve opened in 2000 in the city’s southwest. Warsaw: never say never!

TAKE A BUILDING

Destination: Moscow A closer look at the Warsaw’s Russian Embassy…

ew buildings in Warsaw have courted as much attention in recent weeks as the Russian Embassy on Belwederska 49. The staging point for numerous anti-war rallies, its formidable gates have become a familiar sight on TV, and so too the hundreds of soft toys left outside in protest. But what lies beyond them? Completed in 1955, there are those who argue that this was the last building in Poland to be finished in the Socialist Realist style that defined the Stalinist era. Jointly designed by Alexander Vyelikanov and Igor Rozhen, there can be no

doubting its message. Purposefully over-shadowing the nearby Belvedere Palace, it was a pompous show of power that some critics suggest showed a sub-conscious desire by the architects to celebrate the imperial and classicist architecture of 18th and 19th century Russia. Positioned on an artificial hill, much gossip still surrounds it; containing a 400 sq/m apartment within, rumors remain that it was in here that Brezhnev stayed during his Warsaw visits. Looking vaguely sinister due to its overbearing dimensions, one can well imagine diplomats inside holding court sitting at either end of a Putin-style table.

Yet despite its grim reminders of the country’s Communist past, this Embassy also played a star role during one of Poland’s classic triumphs over the Soviet Union – namely, the defection of Polish super spy Ryszard Kukliński. A key member of Poland’s General Staff, he had been summoned to the Embassy on the evening of November 6th, 1981, to attend a 1,000-strong reception to toast the October Revolution. Kukliński, however, was already in the employ of the CIA. Leaving, he stepped into a black chauffeur-driven Volga, but unknown to the security services who had been watching him, the car was driven by American agents with whom he’d been sharing secrets with for the previous decade. Delivered to a safe house, he was then smuggled out of the country the following day. Though some Poles consider him a traitor, his defection was a keynote moment for the West, and is credited by some historians for averting WWIII. “In the last 40 years,” wrote CIA director William Casey in a memo to Ronald Reagan, “no-one has done more damage to Communism than that Pole.” More closer to the present, the Embassy again made news in 2013, this time during the capital’s Independence Day riots. Having already burned a rainbow and attacked a squat, marchers concluded their evening by attempting to storm the gates. Largely vilified at the time by the media, such is the mood today that it is hard to find a person that doesn’t secretly (or not-so-secretly) wish they’d made it through. warsawinsider.pl

PORTRAIT BY JAVIER PRESENCIO

Interview

Insider Perspectives Formerly of Grupa Warszawa, Bartek Kraciuk helped re-shape Warsaw with his F&B concepts; now describing himself as a ‘neo-hotelier’, he’s redefining slow travel through projects such as Bookworm Cabin, Gniazdowo nad rzeką and the soon-to-launched UKOI escapes…

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Where was the last memorable meal you had in Warsaw? I just had another great meal at Bibenda. I love the place for its consistent quality, brilliant flavor pairings and its laidback atmosphere. I’m also a big fan of how they serve mostly vegetable-based meals in a manner that makes you forget about meat. In your previous role at Grupa Warszawa, your bar and restaurant concepts re-defined the idea of ‘Warsaw cool’! With that in mind, how do you create a place that’s hip and happening? We were just trying to build places that we ourselves would want to spend time in. When I was still involved, my guiding philosophy was to simply show things as they were – I wanted to avoid being theatrical. When creating places that are ‘on trend’, I still believe that this fundamental motto holds true. What is ‘the Warsaw style’! Mashup. In every way. Where can we catching you drinking nowadays? I’ve partied enough in my life already! Nowadays, you’re much more likely to bump into me sipping my morning coffee at Ministerstwo Kawy or enjoying a smoothie in Coco Bowls. Do you remember the first ever restaurant you visited in Warsaw? I was born here, so I’ve visited more restaurants than I can remember! But I do remember vividly the first time I felt eating out could actually be an ‘experience’. That was at U Kucharzy in the old Hotel Europejski, before it changed to Raffles. I couldn’t count the number of dinners I had there, but they all have a special place in my memory. Do you have a favorite cinema here? I wish! I do appreciate the idea of Kinogram (Fabryka Norblin) even if it seems a bit too much sometimes. Otherwise I love Luna as it’s in walking distance, Kinoteka for its easy access and Iluzjon for being in such a beautiful 1950s building.

Speaking of which, is there a building that makes you go wow each and every time! Willa Pniewskiego on Al. Na Skarpie 27. The architect himself lived here, and even today you gaze at it and can’t help but think how amazing the area must have been back when it was built in the inter-war years. That said, there’s a lot in Warsaw to make you go ‘wow’, and for similar treasures I highly recommend the architectural guides published by Centrum Architektury. Do you have a favorite city secret? I’m not going to tell you my secrets! But what I will say is wherever you are in Warsaw, stay local. There’s so much to be discovered no matter what area you are in. Is there a street that you feel captures the essence of Warsaw? Actually, I think the most inspiring (and challenging) thing about this city is that it can’t be contained within one street. Do you have a favorite store that you feel makes the city better? The Bęc Zmiana bookstore is great if you’re seeking a little creative inspiration. Also, I love Probiernia Urbanowicz for its unique Polish liquors as well as the Paititi Holistic Store for its range of ceramics and other bits and pieces. What do you see out of your window when you’re working? That depends where I am, but since I work in the travel industry, the views are usually amazing: trees, grass, fields... And mostly just an hour’s drive from Warsaw. What are you looking forward to doing this summer in Warsaw? Spring and summer are my favorite times of year in the capital; the city and its people really wake up then. Genuinely, I have no specific plans, I prefer just to walk around on these sunny days, meet friends and let the day take its own organic course… warsawinsider.pl

SUNSETS &

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WATER-FALLS

Summer’s back, and with it a range of options to suit all tastes and wallets. But as they say, the best things in life are free, and they don’t come any freer than gazing as the sunset or sashaying through a fountain…

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SUNSETS & WATER-FALLS Palace of Culture & Science

Witness to some of Warsaw’s most turbulent chapters (a coup, wartime destruction, fire, etc.!), Poniatowski Bridge has remained positively imperial in its pomp with its unmistakable silhouette now all the more powerful when juxtaposed against the glimmering sight of the National Stadium in the distance. Unsurprisingly, the stretch of beach on this side is one of Warsaw’s top summer hangouts – and never does it feel better than when the skies turn scarlet and the sun slowly sets on the hundreds gathered on the sands below… Watch rose-tinted sunsets from the futuristic rooftop garden that sits on top of the BUW Library (Dobra 68/70). Brimming with vine encrusted pergolas, miniature apple trees, silvery willows and metallic walkways, this unexpected park comes with the bonus of fab riverside views and a brilliant vantage point that juts from the roof. Cele-

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

brating its 20th birthday this year, the project has been previously described as “a symbolic keystone between culture, nature and the cosmos.” When moving to Warsaw, visiting the viewing platform at the Palace of Culture (Pl. Defilad 1) becomes part of the unspoken deal. Located on the 30th floor, the windswept wraparound terrace opens late each summer, with opening hours customarily extended at the weekend from the standard 8 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Reputedly Warsaw’s most visited attraction, viewing the sunset from here is like starring in your own romcom. The bell tower of St. Anne’s (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) is a stairway to heavenly views. Haul yourself up the 147 steps to enjoy the city’s most picturesque viewing platform – unofficially ranked

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Sunset Moments

From Most Siekierakowski

as Warsaw’s top kiss spot, the views of the Castle Square are exceptional: it’s as if you can reach out and touch King Ziggy’s column that rises in front. Close by, and closer to the ground, leave a lovelock on the railings of the viewing platform at Gnojna Góra. After gaze longingly as the sun lowers over Praga to the east. When skies turn red head to the bridges of Warsaw. Scissored in shadows from the criss-crossing support pillars, Gdański is a favorite for lovebirds, as is Świętokrzyski – featured in a medley of films, vids and ads, its appeal has proved enduring. For those that fancy themselves as photographers, head to the southern Siekierkowski: flanked by woodland, the river’s natural bend and the distant glimmering skyline provides for plenty of dramatic contrasts between nature and the city.

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flanked by woodland, the river’s natural bend and the distant glimmering skyline provides for plenty of dramatic contrasts

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SUNSETS & WATER-FALLS Water Worlds! Multimedia Park

MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN PARK Attracting a million people per year (woah!), Warsaw’s Multimedia Fountain Park is one of the city’s big summer winners. Equipped with 367 nozzles capable of firing out 30,000 liters of water per minute, it’s got the capacity to display a total of 16 million colors – yep, we didn’t know that many existed either. Covering an area of 2,850 sq/m, the weekends are when the action hits fever pitch carefully coordinated water displays paired with audio and visual effects. Back after a two-year covid-enforced break, throughout June shows take place every Friday and Saturday at 9:30 p.m. Skwer 1 Dywizji Pancernej ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE The epitome of the new live-work-play urban model, this restored power plant is at its most beautiful in summer when the plaza outside buzzes with activity: but it ain’t just about the al fresco cinema or restaurant terrace scene, but also the multimedia fountain outside the entrance. During daytime, it’s not unusual to find kids running through it – as night settles, join the millennials shooting selfies in front of its illuminated colors.

WARSAW SPIRE Hemmed in by greenery, curving pathways and pristine street furniture, find an array of synchroMETROPOLITAN nized water jets combining to provide a display Taking center stage inside Sir Norman Foster’s donut-shaped Metropolitan building, this fountain that looks utterly hypnotic once darkness slides in. With the Spire tower glimmering above, it’s reaches a height of 15 meters and is recognized really quite a sight – home to a seasonal outdoor as one of the first ‘intelligent’ fountains found in cinema and glowing blocks housing temporary the country. Costing over half a million złoty, the Canadian-designed system responsively reacts to art displays, the place typifies modern Warsaw. wind conditions to ensure no-one gets drenched Pl. Europejski unless they really want to. Pl. Piłsudskiego 1 Dobra 42

GRZYBOWSKI For a potted history of Warsaw look no further than Pl. Grzybowski. Penned in by socialist blocks, pre-war tenements and latter day skyscrapers, its clash of sights and sounds is one of the archetypal Warsaw experiences. And at its center, find a concrete plaza brimming with flowers, shaded benches, al fresco historical displays and a tinkling water feature spanned with wooden walkways – often featuring in commercials, social media influencers also love shooting here. Pl.

Grzybowski

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

WISŁA BOULEVARDS There’s a few jillion fountains to admire, including a historic one of the Warsaw Mermaid. Found at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge this pre-war survivor was modeled on a poetess fatally wounded on the first day of the 1944 Uprising – look carefully, and you’ll spot bullet holes round the base. For those that care not for the past, oodles of contemporary fountains can be found running along the riverside with the highlight being a pod of water-spouting whale statues. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie

Elektrownia Powiśle

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What to do in June

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Let the good times begin! Fully primed for a summer to remember, the city’s June calendar dives straight in at the deep end with a range of full-throttle events to send the mood soaring…

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Loud & Proud! Whereas some Polish cities treat their pride parades with suspicion and – on occasion – outright hostility, the Warsaw version has found itself strongly supported by the incumbent Mayor. The largest event of its kind in Poland, the divided nature of Polish society nonetheless means that the route usually remains unpublished until the very last moment in the interests of safety – i.e., to deter counter-gatherings. Despite that, it’s a sure bet that the area around the Palace of Culture will figure highly. Forecast to draw thousands, it’s also a given that the party will continue long into the night in the city’s more gay-friendly venues. Interestingly, adding a topical twist, this year has seen organizers join forces with Kyiv Pride in a show of solidarity. “Due to Russia’s attack on Ukraine, the jubilee anniversary of the Equality March in Kyiv cannot be held in its traditional format,” they write. “For us involved in Warsaw’s Equality Parade, community means standing up for others. Community means creating space for voices that cannot be heard. Community means walking hand-in-hand for the safety and freedom of those who have had such values taken away from them… We call on the community to join the Warsaw and Kyiv Pride march together and stand up for peace, love and the freedom of the Ukrainian people.” Where: Unknown at press time When: June 25th Web: fb.com/paradarownosci

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What to do: June Spend Sunday First unveiled on November 14th, 1926, the Chopin monument had been years in the planning – as early as 1889, members of the Warsaw Musical Society had discussed such a memorial to mark the 40th anniversary of the composer’s death, and in 1901 Tsar Nicholas II bent to the growing clamor for a monument after the Polish opera singer Adelajda Brocholska personally appealed to him following a performance in St. Petersburg. Despite this, it was to take another couple of decades until the city’s favorite son was rightfully remembered – even if only for a fleeting moment. In 1940, it became the first Warsaw monument to be destroyed by the Nazis when it was removed under the orders of Hans Frank. With Chopin regarded as one of the great patriotic figureheads of Poland, the monument’s destruction was a purposeful ploy to crush the Polish spirit – but if anything, the iconoclastic act galvanized the local population. Apocryphal it might be, but the next day it is said a slogan appeared on the plinth as if painted by the composer: “I do not know who did this,” it read, “but I know why: so that I won’t play the funeral march for your leader.” Rebuilt in 1958, the 16-ton statue was constructed based upon old photographs as well as a miniature gypsum model found in a destroyed cellar belonging to Wacław Szymanowski – the sculptor who had first coined the original design in 1907. Depicting the composer sat under a willow tree, the six-meter statue has since become one of the city’s iconic meeting points, and its rose-fringed setting ideal for romantic trysts. However, it is for its free summer concerts that it is now best known. Taking place for the 63rd time, this summer drop by at noon or 4 p.m. each Sunday to listen to recitals from both Polish and international pianists. Attracting hundreds, and occasionally thousands of people, they’ve become a defining element of summer in the city.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

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With Chopin

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What to do: June Up, up and away! For only the third time in history, the skies over the river will fill with the sight of hot air balloons huffing their way over the water as part of the Warsaw Balloon Fiesta. A quite staggering spectacle, the event is expected to attract thousands of onlookers vying for the best vantage point along the Wisła. If previous years are to go by, anticipate around 25 balloons to make it up into the air, though the entire event will of course be subject to weather conditions. When: 10th to 12th June Web: fb.com/balonowastronanieba

Previously drawing authors of the caliber of Zadie Smith, Hanif Kurieshi and Vivian Gornick, the tenth ever Big Book Festival is widely regarded as the most dynamic of Warsaw’s literary events. Though largely of interest to Poles, there’s enough of an international presence to pique the curiosity of non-native speakers. Among others, writers that have been booked to appear include Megan Nolan (Acts of Desperation) and Gabriel Krauze (Who They Was). Not short of wacky creativity, Saturday night will also involve a party where guests are challenged to dress-up and party whilst dressed as their favorite character or book title! When: 24th to 26th June Where: Otwocka 14 Web: bigbookfestival.pl

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

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Feeling Bookish?

Be Orange! From modest beginnings in 2008, the Orange Warsaw Festival has emerged as one of Poland’s key musical festivals, rivaled in size only by the Heineken Open’er held each year in Gdynia. Of course, the term modest beginnings is relative – even the first event attracted a crowd of 35,000. Originally created with the support of city hall, the days of free admission are long gone, replaced instead by a slick two-day event held at the racetrack. Considered one of the top big format events in Central Europe, it’s taking place for the first time since 2019 (blame you-know-what for that). Thus far, confirmed acts include Florence + The Machine, Tyler, The Creator, Stormzy, Foals and

NAS. Note, festival goers will be allowed to travel for free on public transport – moreover, the city has also pledged to lay on extra transport connections to ferry crowds back and forth. With regards to tickets, numerous configurations exist, with the basic two-day package weighing in at PLN 529 (PLN 999 for VIP access). Basic one-day passes have been priced at PLN 329 (PLN 629 for VIP). All tickets purchased for the aborted 2021 event will also be valid. When: June 3rd to 4th Where: Służewiec Race Track Web: orangewarsawfestival.pl

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What to do: June

The law regarding BBQ’s pretty idiot proof: don’t have a smoke-out on your apartment balcony, the forest or anywhere else that risks going up in flames. Do so, and you’ll get a hefty fine from the uniformed lads of Warsaw’s Straż. Most historic parks are also off limits, so you can forget wheeling your barbie to a place like Łazienki. So, where can you spark up the grill? People-friendly public spaces are numerous, with classic faves including Pole Mokotowskie, Park Skaryszewski and that bit of scrubland on the eastern Praga side of Poniatowski Bridge. Where product is concerned, Mięsny in Saska Kępa is our go-to place to stock up on meat, but we’re also partial to visiting Crazy Butcher and Befsztyk. Also, let’s hear it for Darren at Ke Nako (kenakofoods.pl), a purveyor of homemade South African Boerwor sausages. For English bangers, then check out the Cumberland sausages at the online Koko & Roy deli (kokoandroydeli.com). Finally, to give your meats a bit of oomph, don’t forget to stock up on hot sauce! Do so at bedziepieklo.pl, an online portal with an interesting line in artisanal Polish hot sauces – in terms of producers, Lubelskie Słoiki are the pack leaders.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

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Go Up In Smoke

Screen Time Summer brings with it an onslaught of open-air cinema options, and whilst most (make that all) had failed to release their plans at press-time, you can expect the seasonal kino scene to be up-andrunning by the end of the month – most likely, by the last weekend of June. Now though NONE of these had been confirmed as we hit the printing press, we’re fully expecting the following to open once again – and aside from those, we’re also pretty certain that hubs such as Norblin, Elektrownia, Koneser and Browary Warszawskie will also follow suit. Filmowa Stolica Co-organized by the city, Filmowa Stolica is the biggie with several locations around town. In the past, that’s included a hugely diverse selection of venues such as Royal Wilanów, POLIN, Saski Park, the horseracing track, Kępa Potocka and many more besides. To see what plans they’ve cooked up this year, check filmowastolica.pl over the coming weeks.

Kino Letni Na Plac Europejskim Held in the shadow of the Warsaw Spire, anticipate hammocks and deckchairs strewn around the pristine modern square that is Pl. Europejski. To keep up to speed, check into: fb.com/PlacEuropejski.

Kino W Łazienkach It doesn’t get better than watching random classics in Warsaw’s prettiest park – usually held at the outdoor amphitheater, you’ll find yourself in the very heart of this historic park. For details, see: fb.com/Muzeum.Lazienki.Krolewskie

U-Jazdowski Expect a mega laidback vibe in front of Ujazdowski Castle, an area bristling with bits of outdoor sculpture, hammocks and a couple of interesting food and drink options. Again, keep updated by checking in online: u-jazdowski.pl.

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What to do: June

For foodies (and drinkers), nothing says summer more than the reopening of the legendary Nocny Market and its riverside sister, the madcap Lunapark…

Nocny Market It seems like each year it’s the same – debuting in 2016, we don’t think there’s been a single summer where we haven’t been told that this will be the last of the famed Nocny Market. That’s not them crying wolf, incidentally, rather a reality – set on a disused train platform, for years the future of this spot has hung in the balance. With the station due for an overhaul by the state rail service provider, it’s only the latter’s tardiness that has kept the Market in business. And boy, are we glad about that. Still feeling as edgy as when it first premiered, Nocny Market brings together dozens of food vendors

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-fun collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some crazy-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. It is the essence of summer Warsaw. ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

That Summer Feelin’

Lunapark Otherwise knows as the hedonists asylum (at least by us), there is nothing we can say about Lunapark that we haven’t said before: this remains, no questions asked, just about the most imaginatively insane F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen. Located in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex, this overgrown plot has been lent a Coney Island makeover to feature a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A wild world of top quality street food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness, it’s a haven of hip

and a weekend essential that lasts till daybreak. True, during daylight hours on Friday and Saturday (it’s closed all other days), people converge here to feast on sticky paper plates whilst kids caper about; but at night, the atmosphere ratchets way, waaaay up. And nowhere more so than Hocki Klocki, an offshoot club whose entrance is constructed from giant bricks of Lego. Fringed by shipping containers housing bars and DJ decks, visit at night to jiggle in the open air with other party-loving souls. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla

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What to do: June

Sto Lat Maluch!

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

in Cuba where over 10,000 are currently registered. Though retired from production at the turn of the millennium, their curiously amusing design has even reached Hollywood with famous owners including Tom Hanks. “I don’t know how many miles it will take on the California roads,” quipped the actor on delivery, “but I’m comforted to be able to fix it with a screwdriver and a ladies’ trouser belt.” Though officially celebrating its birthday on June 6th, celebrations honoring this mighty mouse will take place on Saturday June 4th and will include a rally and car exhibition at the Polish Automobile Club at Powstańców Śląskich 127.

PHOTOGRAPHS NAC

June marks the 49th anniversary of the Fiat 126p, the diminutive rear-engine car that became one of unforgettable sights of communist era Poland. Introduced to Poland as part of Edward Gierek’s plan to ‘motorize’ the nation, prior to its rollout it was estimated that there were just 17 cars per 1,000 people in the country. Nicknamed the Maluch (‘the little one’), the Fiat 126p tipped those numbers right onto their head – produced under license from Fiat, in all 3,318,674 were manufactured up until 2000. Zippy and nibble, these fierce little creates were also prone to calamity – the ‘start’ system had a rep for being particularly faulty, with common on-spot fixes famously utilizing sticks, belts and even bras. Even so, they attained a cult status, not least for their durability and magical powers - under communism, practically every family had tales of epic National Lampoon-style journeys undertaken to the beaches of Bulgaria. Famed for their remarkable capacity, iconic actress Małgorzata Potocka famously once recalled a riotous drive through Łódź with eleven people riding in and on a Maluch while glugging Soviet champagne. Also nicknamed the Kaszlak (cougher) after its trademark throaty roar, it wasn’t just a phenomenon in Poland. Over 900,000 were exported abroad, and they remain tremendously popular

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MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

THE SIREN’S SONG Syrena Irena gives the dumpling a makeover...

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Review

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for an updated taste of traditional Poland, this could become a culinary stalwart...

witty homage to the classic eateries of old, it’s fun just to look at. Ordering at the counter, the food is equally enjoyable with pierogi filling including delicious white sausage or sauerkraut and mushroom. Classics such as cheese and potato Ukrainian pierogi (formerly known as Russian pierogi until the invasion) are something of a default choice, but do also look for their more maverick suggestions: for instance,

sweet cheese and orange peel. Lovingly made by hand inside a white-tiled kitchen which you can peer right into, the food goes well beyond the mediocre standards that this tourist strip is famed for. In fact, for an updated taste of traditional Poland, this could become a culinary stalwart. Top it out with a nip of vodka or a slab of wuzetka cake and you have a very pleasant evening all but guaranteed. Syrena Irena Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, fb.com/syrenairena PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF SASSY

espite being such a staple of the Polish diet – not to mention one of the country’s most famous culinary exports – dumpling restaurants have traditionally been low-impact affairs aimed more at oldies and traditionalists rather than any other demographic (e.g. people below fifty). True, in many ways that reflects the humble nature of the food. In a nation that spends half the years shivering under brittle blankets of frost, there are few dishes that lend more pleasure to life than a steaming plate heaped with pierogi. But come on, sometimes you want even the most basic of foods elevated another level. Syrena Irena does that – firstly, by serving them inside an interior you actually want to stick around in. Designed by Projekt Praga, the retro-minded interior is awash with ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tabletops and bold blue colors. A

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

FOODIE NEWS

What’s hot, what’s not and what’s happening around town… FEELING SASSY

Already well-established in Gdańsk, Sassy have become the latest venue to open in the Browary Warszawskie complex. Open from Thursday to Saturday, head down for elaborate sushi and classy cocktails served in a glam and glossy venue that’s been designed to thrill – the ace up the sleeve is a live entertainment roster that involves drag queens, burlesque artists, DJs and jazz bands.

CHAMPIONS DETHRONED!

After well over two decades of business, Champions have ceased operations. A bastion of glitz and glittering trophies, one of the country’s most celebrated sports bars finally shut its doors just before Easter. Filling its vast floorspace, we’ve been told to expect a super-sized version of Paros – a well-regarded Greek restaurant with a current outpost on Jasna.

I, ROBOT

With staff shortages representing one of the biggest complaints in the F&B industry, one restaurant has found a novel solution to the crisis by unveiling Warsaw’s first robot waitress. Developed by LSI Technologies, and featuring cat-like facial features, find BellaBot prowling around the tables of Navona, an Italian eatery in the heart of Ochota. We’ll be visiting soon to learn if she warrants a tip…

COMING SOON…

As Warsaw’s gastro industry recovers from the long-terms effects of the Bat Virus, signs that things are looking up are coming thick and fast – as evidence of this, cult hangout Kraken have announced a new venue at an undisclosed venue in Żoliborz, whilst the outstanding Rusiko are to open another slice of Georgia on Pl. Teatralny. Also in the pipeline, the Argentinean culinary maestro Martin Gimenez Castro is in the process of recruiting for Franco Warsaw – we’ve no further details, but we’ve already pledged to be among the first there.

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Review

HUBBA BUBBA!

Praga’s renaissance rises another notch with the debut of an upmarket gem…

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

igns of Praga’s ongoing gentrification are numerous, and although it’s the mixed use Koneser project that tends to hog the headlines, advances are being made in the streets all around. Sitting practically opposite the gloriously revived Kamienica Pod Sowami, a prewar tenement embellished with Gothic gargoyles, hub.praga is something of a poster child for the area’s regeneration – an upscale eatery overseen by one of the country’s leading chefs…

IN THE FRONT Greeted warmly by a supremely amiable waiter, you walk in to find a stunning dining room with high ceilings, long windows and an interior that’s effortless in its understated elegance – tan, beige and white, these seemingly neutral colors are brought to life by some statement art, moon-shaped mirrors and gleaming light fittings of different shape and size. Lightly embellished with contemporary culinary bibles such as The Nordic Cookbook, not to mention some discreet Gaggenau brand placement, this feel-good space is small but never suffocating – perfectly proportioned, it’s got a sense of insider privacy, something that rises yet further should you choose to sit in the little four-seater nook tucked in the back corner. ON THE PLATE “We recommend four to five courses a’la carte,” states the menu, something that’s easily done given there’s eleven or so choices. Priced from PLN 22

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

OUT THE BACK Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘One To Watch’ title at the Insider’s 2016 Best of Warsaw awards. “Looking to challenge diners,” we wrote at the time, “Iwański’s cooking embraces obscure and unusual ingredients, fine-tuning them using the latest know-how and kitchen magic. A breathlessly exciting talent, the one problem is that his restaurant lies 40 kilometers away.” Not anymore is that an issue.

hub.praga ul. Jagiellońska 22, hub-praga.pl

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Looking like miniaturized works of art, each course is a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness... to PLN 41, these mini-courses fill out to form a complete meal should you follow their advice; larger appetites, though, might want to extend a little beyond this. Those wanting the full 360 view, meanwhile, should opt to take the full tasting menu for PLN 360. Looking like miniaturized works of art, each course is a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness: for us, a tartar topped with crunchy perilla leaves and served along with a waffle adorned with dots of egg yolk and a pair of marinated Mirabelle plums. Subtle and refined, it’s a dish where you bite, pause and reflect on the harmony of tastes. Next, beetroot salad with hazelnut biscuit and a ginger flan – appealing on the eye, it’s another triumph of delicate and exquisite taste. This, mind you, pales next to what is modestly described as being ‘vegetable casserole / bechamel / lovage’. Bursting open with the softest of touches, its contents pour forth: carrots, marinated zucchini, broad beans. The freshness is vivid in its impact. But every meal needs that standout moment where the tastes wallop you in the nuts, and in our case that’s what

happens with the arrival of the veal. Though acutely small in its portioning, it’s a massive hit of flavor notes. Served with savoy cabbage and a strudel with duxelles mushrooms, for a brief moment I consider ordering another. Exceptional in every regard, the peaks continue with dessert: a strawberry fantasia of ice cream, sorbet, fresh sorrel and a little hit of house vinegar. “You’re the first guest we’ve ever served this to,” says the waiter, “so let us know what you think.” The answer, I’m afraid, is not fit for print: OMFG. It’s really that good.

AND A FINAL THOUGHT The location is audacious, and you can’t help but wonder if it’s a masterstroke or a mistake – can Praga support it? And if not, will enough outsiders visit? I would sincerely hope so. In this post-lockdown era, most new restaurants have played it safe by simply offering a reliably good feed. Iwański’s project on the other hand dares do something different by presenting an experience in the truest sense – it’s a restaurant that harks to the time when chefs wanted to thrill. And my God, Iwański does just that. Did we like it? Nah. We absolutely loved it. warsawinsider.pl

District NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH: SASKA KĘPA

Something of a garden suburb, the affluent Saska Kępa district is quieter than most. But amid the modernist villas and leafy backstreets sit several food and drink options that make life feel good…

Mr. Greek Souvlaki Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reins in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family. Vegan Ramen Shop Finlandzka 12

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks. Francuska 30 Francuska 30

The terrace is the place to be, shaded from the sun by the dangling overhead yellow-blue brollies. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by a snacky

Mięsny Walecznych 64 To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the best informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. A primal joy, do your feasting inside a simply white-tiled interior, or the terrace that sprawls out in front.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

way, Flaming is the height of Saska sophistication. MOD Donuts

Paryska 27

The award-winning NYC-style donuts at MOD belong in a league of their own. Matching artisanal production methods with playful, all-natural toppings and fillings such as black forest gateau, this place has hit the bull’s eye with Saska’s younger crowd. Looking pretty in pink, visit too for ice cream and flowers! As for us, we pop in for yuzu bombolini. Hałas

Elsterska 10

items such as the top-selling Iskender (kebab meat piled with sour cream and tomato sauce). But let’s not kid about, everyone in Warsaw knows Efes for its little take-away hatch – join the queue for one of the town’s street food legends. Flaming

Francuska 2

menu of cakes and crepes. Efes Francuska 1 Furnished in an ‘exotic, 90s style’, the interior packs out with diners that appreciate hearty

Seen as a glass-fronted oblong, this pearl of inter-war modernism comes into its element each summer – in-filled with wooden platforms, the back garden is rife with pathways cut amid the plants and vegetation: for the best view though, climb the spiral staircase for moonlit cocktails and sparkly wines on the balcony. Impeccable in every

Divide Hałas into three sections: first, a tiny garden area with a couple of park benches; then, downstairs, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Finally, at the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty. Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Zwycięzców 49

An offbeat locale inside a recharged 1950s pavilion, find Towarzyska crowned with a tilting neon sign. Offering a fridge full of craft beer, competent cocktails, homemade lemonades and other alternative-minded drinks, it’s the best late night in the area. Soak it up on the terrace steps or inside an ascetic interior of bare concrete, chipped furnishings and retro tile-work. warsawinsider.pl

Review

TELL ME MORE Actually, it’s been possible to visit San Escobar for quite some time. Starting life in 2017, to this day it runs as a cult corner spot found in the depths of Hala Gwardii. Serving craft beers and South American snacks, it’s become an essential part of this food hub, and a magnet for a fun-loving crowd that mingles with ease. As we all know, Hala Gwardii is great, but it’s the San Escobar unit that’s the greatest bit of all.

NEXT STOP: SAN ESCOBAR What happens when one cult venue spawns another?

BUT… THEY’VE GROWN! That’s right. Not content with being the dons of Gwardii, the crew behind San Escobar have conquered new territory. Taking the space once occupied by Warsaw’s best-ever wing joint, Zkurczybyk, they’ve moved to open a new bar that seeks to emulate the success of their elder brother. THE LOOK The previous tenant did a good

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY REPUBLICA SAN ESCOBAR, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

WHAT’S IN A NAME? No, the name isn’t some veiled reference to that Columbian dude Pablo, but a tongue-incheek dig at one of the more comic moments in Polish politics. The story is thus: back in 2017, the then foreign minister, Witold Waszczykowski, found himself the butt of all jokes after asserting that he had held meetings with nearly 20 countries “for the first time in the history of our diplomacy.” Pushed to expand on this, he then namechecked an entirely non-existent paradise titled San Escobar. Memes flourished and the public went wild: so this, you see, is the root of the name.

Republica San Escobar ul. Poznańska 7 (enter from Wilcza)

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the opening of Republica San Escobar has created a kind of nocturnal Bermuda Triangle that’ll swallow you whole job of kitting out the interior and filling it with a hip hop / steam punk / super cool vibe; aware of this, San Escobar have done little to transform this – well if it ain’t broke, why fix it? Remaining, you’ve got an interior filled with corrugated iron sheets, a zappy neon, exposed brick, bike pedals on the footrests and lots of chunky woods and brothel

red lighting. Even the signature piece remains: a wall designed to mimic a laundromat, only with the faces of the washing machines in-filled with pics or iconic rock gods.

ing drinks for their mates and even people who aren’t. And yes, the drinks: four or so craft beers on tap, and a range of quick-fix cocktails that’ll leave your legs bandy.

… AND THE VIBE Absolutely bloody brilliant. There’s a fun-loving spirit here that’s impossible to resist: bad moods are banned. Helping this are the dimensions – with such a small footprint, it takes about six people to generate an atmosphere, and as the night draws on you’ll find the party spilling outside on the tight pavement terrace. Aiding and abetting the good times are the owners – keenly engaged in their project, find them working the crowd, buy-

FINAL WORD We loved the place – lacking the usual kind of pretense associated with Warsaw’s city center, you feel that this is a bar where attitudes aren’t welcome. And with cult venues like Kraken, NOLA and Gemba just mere steps away, the opening of Republica San Escobar has created a kind of nocturnal Bermuda Triangle that’ll swallow you whole and leave you in pieces. Leave the passport at home, you ain’t going to be going anywhere after. warsawinsider.pl

Review TAKE THE POLYGRAPH

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Pollypizza passes the test with flying colors...

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Pollypizza NEOpolitan ul. Puławska 24, pollypizza.pl.

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pay attention to the starters: the burrata with hazelnuts is praiseworthy as too the number of veggie options...

F PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

act: every neighborhood deserves a good pizza joint. Acting as a focal point for informal meet-ups, they’re also a get-out-of-jail card when it comes to last minute dinner solutions when the kitchen is bare. But the best ones, they’re the ones that go a further yard. The really lucky neighborhoods, they’re the ones that have a pizzeria run by passionate owners that have invested their soul into making things work – and in this regard, the denizens of Mokotów have scored big time. WHAT’S POLLY? Fitted out with mid-20th century furniture that’s been tweaked to act as counters and storage space, Polly tricks herself out with such whimsical touches as disco balls salvaged from Poland’s PRL period. Entering, it’s not dissimilar to entering someone’s apartment – someone with an eye for detail and a hankering for vintage.

Should you first avoid catching your head on one of the hanging plants (good luck on that!), you’ll find your eyes drawn towards the kind of orphan chairs you wish carried a price tag – I mean, how good would they look positioned in your living room? Of course, there’s more: a 1960s lamp with a polaroid of a happy punter; a painting resembling the Six Million Dollar Man’s girlfriend; and mustard yellow glasses adorning the white-tiled tables. Sit around them on wide wale corduroy banquettes and admire lights decorated with autumnal-colored ribbons and, get this, a homemade tree jutting out from the corner. Wrapping up the vibe, find a neon that declares ‘Cocktails’ in glowing yellow letter. AND WHAT’S WITH THE FOOD? With more and more Neapolitan pizzerias opening around town, pizzaiolos are having to catch

Warsaw’s attention with far-out ideas. Polly does that with gusto. The interior aside, headline grabbers include a pizza titled Legalize Marinara (featuring splashes of CBD oil) and another called Ninja Turtles (alright, we’ve seen that elsewhere). Also notable, we loved the Texas Sun, a pizza with chili honey splattered over it as if by Jackson Pollack – think of it like a sweet kiss after eating a spicy pepper. Moreover, pay attention to the starters: the burrata with hazelnuts is praiseworthy as too the number of veggie options. INSIDER TIP With good food comes long lines. Churning out 250 pies on a good day, PP does get crowded. Bearing that in mind, there’s a temptation to order a takeaway and head to Morskie Oko while you wait for your goodies. That’s all good and well, but doing so you miss out on the scintillating thrill of cutting your pie with a glitzy leopard pizza cutter! - KD warsawinsider.pl

Hala Koszyki

INSIDER'S

GUIDE For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNIT Y HUBS Browary Warszawskie

Norblin Factory

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl Occupying a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele, Browary has proved central to the regeneration of Wola. Opened in 2021, it has become almost a district within a district with revitalized historic buildings rubbing alongside new upmarket apartment blocks. FOOD: marketed as a premium food hall, the ‘communal’ food section finds itself inside a revamped set of vaulted cellars and features a central cocktail bar run by maestro Karim Bibars and around a dozen food units. Beyond, it is the number of bona fide restaurants that have bloomed all around that really stand out, and these include Bombaj Masala, the strikingly popular Japonka and the Adriatic-themed Munja. DRINK: both Baila and Sassy have been firm hits and have, in their own different ways, merged food and drink with live entertainment. Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s

has become Warsaw’s top sports bar, whilst no mention of Browary can overlook the existence of Browar Warsawska, a giant brewpub-restaurant with outstanding food and beer. For the most part, this summer will see people converge in and around the sunken courtyard at the center of this project.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com A former power plant, Elektrownia once powered large parts of the city – today, this is remembered via preserved elements such as a panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture!

FOOD: with each unit marked by its own neon sign, the food hall is visually magnificent. Of the more popular outlets, check out Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and MariCruz Mission Burrito. Set elsewhere in the complex, we’ve visited Dock 19 and Blue Cactus this issue and can vouch for their excellence. DRINK: the food hall includes a craft beer point as well as bars

on either side: authors cocktails from Kandela as well as beers and classic sips from Centrala. As ever, most people will tend to flock outside this summer to Elektrownia’s lawn-filled plaza in front, or to the Patio out in the back. OTHER: the top floor beauty hall offers unique self-care solutions, whilst the retail offer is also finely-tuned to fit the spirit of the place: upmarket Polish design and fashion brands are particularly well-represented.

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl For many, this is the most ‘authentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, something rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsarist-era structure. Note: open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. FOOD: on one side, a farmers’ market flourishes with fresh produce and artisanal goods a forte. Segregated by a communal seating plan in the center, the

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INSIDER GUIDE COMMUNITY HUBS

Elektrownia Powiśle

DRINK: though lacking a central bar as such, drinking plays a big role at Gwardii – dealing craft beers, San Escobar is legendary for its lively spirit and its cult reputation is shared with Niewinność wine bar. OTHER: you could argue Gwardii is the most socially engaged of the hubs, and that’s reflected by an events program that includes frequent pet fairs, national food events, vinyl markets, concerts and even boxing galas!

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays! FOOD: Koszyki contains – at last count – eight street food vendors

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

(our highlight being the burritos at Gringo) and a similar number of standalone restaurants: including the 24hr Cma, and the premium Polish restaurant Warszawski Sen. DRINK: the Central Bar in the middle dominates life at Koszyki and offers decent cocktails and, even, a rather good version of Pimm’s. For craft beer, head to Kielba w Gebie. Though well air-conditioned, the whole point of summer here is to gather outside and drink on the small but lively plaza at the front. All life is here!

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl Behold, Warsaw’s newest hub! Opened last year on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. FOOD: the largest of all food halls, exploring Norblin takes time and is best done over several weekends. Known as Food Town, find

over 20 units as well as a large section dedicated to various Asian cuisines. The generous amount of seating ensure that despite its popularity, it’s rarely a problem finding your own private space. Restaurant-wise, and the big news this month is the launch of another outpost of Blue Cactus. DRINKS: this they do incredibly well. Again, choices are numerous, and highlights include the cocktail-driven, jazzy-spirited Piano Bar and the Uwaga craft beer pub. Inside the main complex, find more bars such as Amaro Mio and Old Shaker – these are overseen by Tomasz Malek, one of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture. OTHER: the BioBazar farmers’ market has no peer when it comes to size and scope. But Norblin is about more than just food and drinks, and that much is pushed home by the presence of Poland’s most luxurious cinema – Kinogram – and an intriguing concept called the ArtBox Experience that takes you on a multimedia journey into Wasaw’s pre-war past.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

rest has seen the floorplan lined with street food units of high reputation.

EVENTS VINTAGE FAIR

Score those sought after cowboy boots at the 9th edition of one of the best vintage fashion fairs in town! Over 60 sellers will gather at this replenished former power plant. Launching mid-pandemic did not dim the potential of this trendy new location, which has quickly become known for its youthful energy. Free entry and dogs welcome. 4-5 June @ Elektrownia Powiśle (level -1)

ARTISANAL ICE CREAM FAIR

Though the main event is centered around ice cream, the Ice Cream Fair will also include many fun activities aimed at the youngest ice cream lovers. A colorful wash-off tattoo stand, face painting station, puppet show, stilt-walking and live bands are only some of the attractions planned for the three-day-long event. 3-5 June @ Wars Sawa Junior (Marszałkowska 104/122)

EVENING OF IMPROVISED SONG

Everything you’ll hear will be composed on the day with the audience’s involvement! With words sung to the music of Joanna Kucharczyk and Agata Pankowska, this will be an evening to remember. Entry is free. 5 June @ Norblin

CLASSICAL AT KOSZYKI 5TH EDITION

Since 2017 this series of events has attracted over 50,000 attendees and in 2019 found itself nominated for the Warsaw Cultural Education Award. Counting the National Philharmonic as its partner, upcoming concerts include a performance by Julia Łozowska on June 5th, Iwo Zeju Li and Magdalena Dębowska on the 12th, the Accorvion Duo on the 19th (playing accordion and violin) and a closing concert on the 26th. Ongoing until June 26th @ Hala Koszyki

FUNDRAISER FOR PETS IN NEED

Artisanal crafts, jewelry, accessories for pets and This new Sunday series brings resident actors from the much more! Hala Gwardii will be holding a charity Comedy Club Theater to Fabryka Norblina. What songs fundraising fair to raise money for cats hurt as a rewill be sung? That’s impossible to answer. sult of the war in Ukraine. 11-12 June @ Hala Gwardii

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IN THE DOCK!

Well-known as one of the city’s top restaurateurs, when Mateusz Gessler’s venture at Elektrownia Powiśle opened in December, many saw it as the final piece in the jigsaw: the kind of big-name resto-bar that the project demanded to act as its gleaming star. That said, referring to Dock 19 by Mateusz Gessler as simply a resto-bar fails to accurately convey just what it has accomplished. Gathering the great and the good of Warsaw, it has become a destination in its own right, one crowned by a long rooftop terrace for the starry nights ahead. As impressive as it promises to be, this final element tells just a fraction of the story. Below, explore a stunning interior that lends a rich dose of glam to this otherwise industrial space – whispering measured affluence, that sensation continues on the flanking ground floor terrace, a neat space that catches the warmth of the early weeks of summer.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Yet it is not just the design that is in tune with the moment, but the menu as well. Incorporating various Asian influences, options include such light, vibrant bites as Hong Kong style shrimps and Vietnamese fried spring rolls with shrimps – these are dishes that marry simplicity with sophistication. But there can be no Dock 19 without drinks. Taking its dual role as a bar seriously, the cocktails here are masterfully composed glories that get no better than the Passion Dock 19. Silky smooth, find vodka infused with mango-passion fruit yogurt, Passoa, lemon juice and sugar syrup. Topped at your will with a smidgen of Prosecco, it is a drink to return for time and time again… DOCK19 by Mateusz Gessler Elektrownia Powiśle, dock19.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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SEE YOU AT THE… PATIO Located towards the back entrance of Elektrownia Powiśle, what could easily have risked becoming something of a deserted noman’s land has again been transformed into a vital and valued part of the project with the introduction of a seasonal terrace sitting in the shade of this former electricity plant. Featuring strings of tactically placed overhead lights, potted trees and blooming plants, the Patio offers a sharp contrast to the dark, cavernous form of the Food Hall inside. But more than just a place to eat in the sun, the presence of a cocktail bar and DJ decks have made this a nailed-on summer star. Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

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THE RESURRECTION

Enshrined in Warsaw legend, the Blue Cactus has returned once more…

THE PAST First opened in 1997, the Blue Cactus was one of those early clutch of venues that set Warsaw’s gastronomy on a bold, new course. Having endured years of unadventurous cuisine, for Poles and expats alike, its bright, Tex-Mex flavors hoisted a culinary lifeline into the sea of bigos we’d previously flailed around in. But it was more than merely a restaurant: a bastion of life and good living, it became symbolic of Warsaw’s wild, early years in the capitalist world.

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THE NOW Shut in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively option kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. Make no mistake, veterans will enjoy this place, but so too will newer generations unfamiliar with the brand. There’s a vitality here, and though the interior does much to express that, it’s a point best reflected by the overall mood.

of salsa. Could this become the best burrito in Warsaw? Where we’re concerned, regular visits to check are already in the pipeline – say it loud: The Cactus is Backtus!

THE MENU Succinct and understandable, this is a menu that emphasizes modern trends that value concepts of freshness and provenance. Sourcing the chorizo from an artisanal producer based in Kashubia, the shrimp & chorizo starter should be treated as a case in point. This refinement is equally apparent via dishes such as the salmon ceviche and tartar ranchero. THE HIGHLIGHTS For all the smart additions, what you’re dying to hear is how they fare on the taco and burrito front. The answer: very well indeed. We tried every taco combo served and suggest you do so too – there are no weak links, but there are certainly highlights: loaded with chicken, cucumber, pineapple and coriander, the Al Pastor is a victory of zing. As for the burrito, the care the chef extends to his food is amply demonstrated by what he does here: traditionally quite an ugly-looking thing, at the Blue Cactus this Mexican staple comes spliced in half and perched on a careful slick

THE SALSAS Though the choice is limited to just three, this trio feel broad enough in both heat and scope to fulfill their requirements with honor and distinction. Full of fresh, homespun charm, the pico de gallo is a joy; the pina verde, on the other hand, is all about tang and subtle bite. Smooth in its consistency, addictive personalities will struggle to stop. Then, there’s the habanero chimichurri. Marketed as their hottest salsa of all, it’s got a lingering tingle that should please all but the most demented of heat-seekers. You get the idea of a kitchen that’s nailed it. THE DRINKS Oddly, we could not find margaritas on the menu, but margaritas we ordered and plenty were delivered: strawberry; mango; classic. Repeat. Every bit as good as you want them, they’re all you need to get the fiesta started. Yet there’s more. Touting also a strong line-up of tequila, the drinks list is further bolstered by the appearance of craft beers from Inne Beczki. Going the extra mile, they’ve created their own Blue Cactus beer with a lime-cactus finish.

Blue Cactus ul. Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle), blue-cactus.pl

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Out With Friends

From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…

long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

FOTON

ul. Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, but it makes this list for a super cool design that’s involves plenty of raw materials and a vast green fleet of tumbling plants – keeping them alive is a quite brilliant irrigational contraption set around the steel frames that support it all. It sure is a quite a sight and one that gets more pronounced the later it gets.

LEGENDS

Cybermachina Warszawa ul. Nowy Świat 54/56

This gaming bar is strange in every respect: among other decorations discover glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks and a toilet evoking Game of Thrones. Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to mimic a 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum!

BAR PACYFIK ul. Hoża 61

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kickass drinks such as their Clamado

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Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman.

BEIRUT & KRAKEN ul. Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.

MIEJSCE CHWILA ul. Żurawia 47

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSTIE COURTESY OF PIANO BAR

ul. Emilii Plater 25

itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz.

bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

This the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country.

Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.

PARDON TO TU

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER Pl. Konesera 4

W OPARACH ABSURDU ul. Ząbkowska 6

Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky

to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, you then need all the luck in the world to bulldoze through the scrum that has gathered to listen to Balkan rockers, Afro-Latin bands and the spectacularly named Bum Bum Orchestra.

WOREK KOŚCI ul. Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor (over 400 replica skulls) as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal.

PLAN B

ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)

Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery.

RITUAL

ul. Mazowiecka 12

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous

KEEP THINGS LIGHT PIANO BAR

ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte.

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Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE ul. Brzeska 29/31

The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt.

STARY DOM

ul. Puławska 104/106

ul. Targowa 81

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well.

BEZ GWIAZDEK ul. Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

PATELNIA PATERA ul. Wilcza 29A

Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes

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offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere!

POLANA SMAKÓW ul. E. Plater 14

THE FARM

ul. Mokotowska 8

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry.

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ ul. Smolna 4

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Źródło

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best.

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.

The Vegan Scene

Astonishing as it sounds, Warsaw is officially rated as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet. We’d need a telephone book to list them all, so instead settled for a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO ul. Krucza 23/31

Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.

MOMENCIK

ul. Poznańska 16

You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.

Peaches Gastro Girls ul. Mokotowska 58

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI ul. Wilcza 11

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc.

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU ul. Wilcza 60

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

LEONARDO VERDE ul. Poznańska 13

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format

UKI GREEN

ul. Koszykowa 49A

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI ul. Hoża 62

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.

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Best of Europe

Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw… details. This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England.

BUTCHERY & WINE ul. Żurawia 22

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA Fort Służew 1B

ul. Grzybowska 43A

Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).

BIBENDA

brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots,

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

ul. Nowogrodzka 10

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique

KONESER GRILL

ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Frank

Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.

LE BRACI

ul. Górnośląska 24

You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.

KLONN

ul. Jazdów 1B

Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.

MUNJA

ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)

Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter,

both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.

REST.BACZEWSKICH

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

Al. Szucha 17/19

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in.

RUSIKO

Al. Ujazdowskie 22

To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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Specialty Coffee

Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s our tried and tested faves…

mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room!

FAT WHITE ul. Andersa 6

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past.

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA ul. Niemcewicza 3

ul. Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42).

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined

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by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops.

COPHI

ul. Hoża 58/60

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in

FORUM

ul. Elektoralna 11

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Dobre Materia

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.

Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.

PO DRODZE ul. Bagatela 11

Set over two rooms inside a beautifully renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, head to the back to discover the real soul of this cafe. Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit.

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

RELAKS

ul. Puławska 48

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.

RELAX NA WILCZEJ ul. Wilcza 17

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

STOR

ul. Tamka 33

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.

U KRAWCA

SUMMER STAR ROŚLINA

ul. Schroegera 80

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.

ul. Siennicka 3

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Special Night Out When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…

organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

EPOKA

ul. Ossolińskich 3

Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Al. Jerozolimskie 3

Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington.

ALE WINO

ul. Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.

DYLETANCI

ul. Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel

MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising

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Muzealna

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

fashion photographers.

NOBU

ul. Wilcza 46

Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73 Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists.

of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

ul. Poznańska 15

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos

of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great pleasures.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20 ul. Rozbrat 20

This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough

CULINARY MASTERCLASS NUTA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.

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Bottoms Up!

Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…

drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.

EL KOKTEL

ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.

GRONO_MOKOTOWSKA

Czarne Czerwone Złote ul. Koszykowa 49A

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab.

BRUSH 2.0

ul. Nowogrodzka 6A

Once darkness falls this on-trend barber shop transforms into a high-energy cocktail den populated by whiskered local scenesters and off-duty models. Mingle alongside them inside an industrial, masculine interior that’s heavy on raw brickwork, exposed steel and all the fixtures and fittings you’d expect in a barber’s: from revolving, stripy poles to cabinets full of razors. Incongru-

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ous as the overall concept sounds, everything comes together in seamless fashion.

CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA

ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1

Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his

A place of subtle and calming class, their philosophy moves in rhythm with a design authored by the Moszczyńska Puchalska studio – featuring ceramic floor tiles and an inter-connected table arrangement, it’s an intimate space (30 sq/m!) that softly whispers goodness. Set with easy colors, there is nothing that overpowers the chief attraction: wines stored on gorgeous wall fittings that have been made to feel like they organically belong inside this pre-war property.

LANE’S GIN BAR

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44

Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when you discreetly enquire about

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE FACEBOOK, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Mokotowska 54

their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.

list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.

VHS BAR

Poznańska 7

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol

and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!

WINNICE MOŁDAWII ul. Czarnieckiego 63A

Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house – wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden.

NOLA

ul. Wilcza 43

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ ul. Wilcza 27

“In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia.

REGINABAR

ul. Koszykowa 1

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail

BORN FOR INSTA PALOMA INN ul. Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complementing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors.

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Feeling Crafty!

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…

seven beers on the go. The rotation of new finds is balanced well with traditional faves.

DRUGIE DNO

ul. Nowogrodzka 4

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Evoking the look of a disused power station, the Double D. sports rugged brickwork and a scuffed style with the industrialized look amped up through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.

JABEERWOCKY

ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Browar Warszawski When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!

CUDA NA KIJU

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused. Though less experimental than other tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner

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courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.

CZEŚĆ

ul. Grzybowska 2

It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap? Yeah, by that we mean small, little places with six or

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The beer selection can be brilliantly radical.

PINTA

ul. Chmielna 7/9

Find a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and bits of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves.

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ul. Nowogrodzka 25

ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

Taste The Exotic

For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

GURU

ul. Widok 8

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

Japonka

ul. Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

BASIL & LIME ul. Oboźna 9

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account

of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara.

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE ul. Nowy Świat 58

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.

CEVICHE BAR ul. Twarda 4

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT ul. Koszykowa 1

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

LE CEDRE

Al. Solidarności 61 & 84

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise,

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just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

KARMA

Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

LA SIRENA ul. Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.

and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

THE COOL CAT

ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and

taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.

K-BAR

ul. Piękna 28/34

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss.

PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul.

Pańska 85

SENOR LUCAS

ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on)

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

WORTH THE WAIT UKI UKI

ul. Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOMASZ KACZOR

GRAŻYNA HASE: ALWAYS IN VOGUE

Krystyna Spark explores the world of fashion icon Grażyna Hase…

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t 83-years-old Grażyna Hase still has the fervor of a fashion designer on the brink of stardom. Perhaps unsurprisingly so – after all, she was one of a handful of individuals who successfully established a recognizable name amidst the uniform mediocrity of clothing produced in Communist Poland. Her silver gray hair is cut in a youthfully elegant pageboy style, perfectly paired with a white shift dress of her own design worn casually over her everyday outfit. Three more versions of the frock in question hang from the ceiling of one of the exhibition rooms. Hase commands the room on the opening night of her namesake exhibition. As the first floor of Muzeum Warszawy fills with mature women of similarly fireball-like frailness, a certain energy begins to fill the space. We are stepping back in time to a moment when Polish fashion, as it is known today, was just being born... This is the first fully fashion-focused exhibition held at Muzeum Warszawy. Located in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town the museum focuses on the history of the capital. With a tiny room dedicated to a permanent display of garments and accessories, only a fraction of the museum’s fashion archives are on display. Now, the public has the opportunity to see more. Grażyna Hase: Always in Vogue pulls together over 200 objects: clothing and accessories, as well as photographs, press cuttings, archival magazines, film stills and newsreels. The layout of the exhibition reflects the trajectory of Grażyna Hase’s career. We begin in the late 1950s when Hase was

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“

While it is difficult to pin point a characteristically “Hase” cut or style it is undeniable that she had an affinity for colors and patterns launched onto the fashion scene through her work as a successful model. Subsequent displays focus on her role as a fashion designer, then creator of her own label and, finally, portray how she inspired future generations of fashion designers. This chronological overview lets viewers look at Hase’s work through various lenses and was chosen in part because of the breadth of her creations. She is a designer who dipped her toe in a multitude of styles and techniques, from simple linen dresses to a quirky ‘hedgehog’ hat. While it is difficult to pin point a characteristically “Hase” cut or style it is undeniable that she had an affinity for colors and patterns. This is especially visible in her fashion drawings, which line the perimeter of almost every room, as well as a series of garments in which she references Polish traditional folk costume. Grażyna Hase’s designs are also a unique medium through which to observe the socio-political shifts occurring in Poland during the second half of the 20th century. Agnieszka Dąbrowska, curator of the exhibit, said: “the clothes, designed by [Hase] from 1967, were

treated as a materialization of communism’s ‘little stability’ and propaganda-praised ‘successes’ of Edward Gierek. In the 1980s, amidst the economic crisis, they [Hase’s designs] were seen as a “breath of luxury”. Final examples of Grażyna Hase’s collections from the 1990s document the designer’s inventiveness as she conjured her own brand within Poland’s budding capitalist environment.”

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42 Grażyna Hase: Always in Vogue is on until early September 2022

But what does Grażyna Hase have to do with Warsaw? The above is a fitting question considering the venue of the exhibit. Apart from being born and educated in the capital, Hase possessed a personal affinity towards the city she was raised in. She often chose it as the backdrop for photographs of her designs, giving a glimpse into the city’s post-war reconstruction, and showcased new collections

at known theaters and cultural venues. Warsaw was also where she opened the doors of her very own Grażyna Hase Gallery – first on Marszałkowska Street and then on Senatorksa; the former remains the location of her personal archive. The Grażyna Hase collection was acquired by Muzeum Warszawy in 2015 and 2017. It comprises a total of 354 objects and is the largest and most com-

plete archive within the museum’s fashion collection. Grażyna Hase: Always in Vogue allows visitors to transport themselves into a world of vibrant tones and textures – visions rarely associated with the blandness of cheap fabrics produced by state-owned factories – and experience the wonder of what could have been… had Grażyna Hase not been one of the few who managed to stand out. warsawinsider.pl

THE POLISH RIDER RIDES AGAIN! Back after a 200-year absence, a classic Rembrandt has gone on temporary show in its former home…

nphased by the ominous clouds that have gathered behind him, he sits astride his steed exuding a sense of calm authority. Lavishly clothed, his expression is stoic, almost defiant. Gazing at this figure, one can feel almost inspired. So who, you are entitled to ask, is this enigmatic figure? Painted by Rembrandt in around 1655, the identity of The Polish Rider is just one of many enduring mysteries that surround this masterpiece. According to some, the work is merely a simply depiction of Marcjan Aleksander Ogiński, a Lithuanian-Polish nobleman who served the Commonwealth with distinction. Others, however, take a different view, speculating that the subject is more likely to be

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

a representation of a historical, literary or even biblical character. The truth though, is unlikely to ever be known. According to Dorota Juszczak of the Łazienki Królewskie Museum, this is one of the points that makes the painting so compelling. “To the full extent of our knowledge, Rembrandt never ‘explained’ this painting,” she tells the Insider. “And I think that’s one of the reasons why it’s so magic. There are art historians that claim Rembrandt used his son, Tytus, as a model, and certainly the resemblance is uncanny, but also some that have said it could even have been a female that posed for this painting.” In a nutshell, it is whatever – whomever – you wish it to be. Wide open to interpretation, it is easy

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE ROYAL ŁAZIENKI MUSEUM

to understand why many viewers have hailed it as a source of hope and inspiration during these troubled times. Izabela Zychowicz, one of the exhibition curators, says: “It’s strictly my view, but I like to think that this painting is about hope; I like to think of the horseman as a freedom fighter battling for good. Given the situation in Ukraine, I think that it has a relevance even in this present day and contains something of an uplifting message.” The riddles presented by this painting are many, but what we do know is of its first recorded mention. That came in 1791 when the Grand Hetman of Lithuania, Michał Kazimierz Ogiński, penned a letter addressed to Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski. Aware that the monarch had a penchant for Rembrandt’s work, he wrote to the royal asking him if he was interested in exchanging from of the orange trees that grew in Łazienki for the painting. The answer, it appears, was yes. “There is no trace of any financial transaction ever taking place between the two despite the meticulous records that were kept,” says Juszczak, “so we can only presume that Ogiński did really sell a Rembrandt for some fruit.” An avid art collector, the King amassed some 2,500 works of art, eleven of which were from the hand of Rembrandt (only three are now believed to have actually been genuinely the work of the Dutchman). Spread across his numerous properties, including the Royal Castle and the Belvedere Palace, his favorites were kept at the Palace on the Isle at Łazienki, including The Polish Rider (which had been sold to him under the title of ‘Cossack On His Horse’. “Poniatowski had great reformatory visions,” says Juszczak, “so it’s quite possible that he saw a little bit of himself in this painting and considered the rider as his alter ego.” On his abdication in 1795, the painting remained at Łazienki; when he died, the collection found itself dispersed and sold bit-by-bit, and we know that this fate befell The Polish Rider in 1814. Changing owners numerous times thereafter, it was finally sold to the American industrialist and arts patron Henry Frick in 1910 – crossing the Atlantic, the painting was welcomed into ‘the Frick collection’. Following his death, his home was transformed into a museum and soon gained a reputation as one of the most valuable cultural institutions in New York. Captivating streams of visitors, the painting’s affect was such that it even found itself taking a star role in Frank O’Hara’s 1960 poem ‘Having A Coke

With You’. But now, over a century after it left Poland, and over 200-years since it was shown in Łazienki, The Polish Rider has been temporarily returned to its spiritual home after a loan deal was struck with its current guardians at the Frick. “For many Polish art historians, seeing this painting return to Poland – albeit temporarily – had always felt like an unobtainable dream,” says Juszczak, “so we’re hugely grateful to the cooperation shown by the Frick, and especially the curator of their collection, Dr. Xavier Salomon.” Hung in a frame specifically reconstructed to mimic those favored by the King (the original is thought to have perished in a fire at Dzików Castle in 1927), and one of only two equestrian portraits ever painted by Rembrandt, its value is extraordinary. “It’s a superb example of Rembrandt’s later style,” says Juszczak, “and I think that even in a room filled with other paintings by him it would still stand out as something utterly exceptional.” Yet beyond this, it is its monetary value that makes it priceless, but something a lot deeper. “This painting is held dear to the hearts of our country,” says Juszczak. “Seeing it back here can be considered one of our great cultural accomplishments.”

Where: The Palace on the Isle (The Royal Łazienki Museum) When: Ongoing until August 7th Web: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

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LANDSCAPES IN PORCELAIN The Royal Castle in Warsaw presents a unique exhibition of priceless porcelain…

Photographs above left to right. 1. Saucer with a view of Dresden according to Bellotto. 2. A cup with views of Meissen probably according to C.G. Ehrlich, Royal Porcelain Manufactory in Meissen, c. 1800. 3. Coffee pot from Stanisław August's déjeuner set with views of Warsaw according to Bellotto, Royal Porcelain Manufactory in Meissen, 1780-1790

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

he porcelain exhibited at the exhibition was created in the years 1735-1800 almost exclusively at the Royal Porcelain Manufactory in Meissen; mainly decoorated with city landscapes, i.e. veduta, most were modeled on the engravings of various artists, among them Bernardo Bellotto. Similarly, enlarged reproductions of selected panoramas of Dutch cities constitute the ‘background’ for plates from the service of Prince William V of Orange. The exhibition has been arranged in two chambers close to the Canaletto Room, whose walls are decorated with views of Warsaw by this artist. Included in these are views from the Praga side as well as from the square in front of the Bernardine Church and Ordynacki Palace, images that had been previously painted by Bellotto. In all, three elements survive from this déjeuner set which once belonged to King Stanislaus August: the coffee set, the teapot and the tray, and these are presented here after more than 200-years. These original vessels are put together with "copies" of the original elements: a milk jug, a sugar bowl and coffee and tea cups with their saucers. From around 1735, Meissen porcelain decorators used not only landscape motifs but also

architectural ones as well. This is illustrated by a set of four saucers featuring Saxon cities, including Dresden, which were based upon works by, among others, Johann Alexander Thiele (1685–1752), the author of the first Dresden panoramas. His views of the principal palaces and castles of the Wettin dynasty were very often used to decorate Meissen porcelain, often juxtaposed against Bellotto’s veduta, an example of which is presented on a snuffbox. This latter drawing was also used to adorn a saucer at the end of the 18th century, and was part of a set that featured a burning Alberchtsburg castle inspired by a 1774 work by C. G. Ehrlich. The exhibition also presents five drawings by Bellotto showing panoramas of Dresden from the Elbe side seen from varying perspectives which were later used by the Meissen factory to decorate snuffboxes. Also shown are three other vessels modelled on Bellotto’s etchings of the Pirna suburb of Dresden as well as the fortresses in Pirna and Königstein, not to mention a Viennese-produced tray featuring the panorama of Vienna as painted in 1760. Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

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WATCH OUT FOR!

For something hip or arty - or even both - keep an eye on these events around town...

CHAGALL “Happiness isn’t happiness without a violin-playing goat,” says Julia Roberts, who plays the protagonist in the 1999 romcom classic – Notting Hill. She is (of course) referencing the fantastical scene portrayed in a work by Russian-French artist, Marc Chagall. Now, for the first time, we can admire his quirky creativity in person in Warsaw. The exhibit at the National Museum presents a group of 14 newly acquired works created in the 1960s and 1970s, during a time when Chagall lent towards more energetic, intensive and lively tones. Combining techniques such as pastels, colored ink, pencil and gouache, this is one for lovers of Chagall as well as those new to his work. Until July 24th @ National Museum (Al. Jerozolimskie 3)

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE WOJCIECH PLEWIŃSKI/SPOT W. GALLERY

POLISH DESIGNERS POP UP A curated selection of the best of Polish designers and brands will showcase clothing and accessories sure to satisfy even the most demanding fashionista. From womenswear, childrenswear and products for the home, the POP UP at Galeria Mokotów is the perfect opportunity to find a unique gift to commemorate your travels with. 2-4 June @ Galeria Mokotów (ul. Wołoska 12)

WOJCIECH PLEWIŃSKI – NIEULOTNE Before they were famous they were photographed by Wojciech Plewiński. Budding starlets, leading men and candid photos of the fashionable crowd – Plewiński’s work is a window into the social circles of those who mattered in Poland during the second half of the twentieth century. This exhibit at SPOT W. Gallery presents portrait photographs of some of the most noteworthy individuals associated with Polish cinema, among them, film director Andrzej Wajda, jazz and film music composer Krzysztof Komeda, as well as actresses Beata Tyszkiewicz and Barbara Kwiatkowska. Until June 18th @ SPOT W. Gallery (ul. Stalowa 33)

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

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18.12.2018 12:32

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop

inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but

July 4th – August 24th The youngest explorers (age 1-2)

July 4th – August 24th Preschool voyagers (age 3-5)

Apply on www.tep.edu.pl

warsawinsider.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at

the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722

305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well

as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

shopping experiences ARKADIA

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg.

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59,

zlotetarasy.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences National Stadium

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com 3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org 6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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TAKE WARSAW HOME

WONDER WALL

For a city-related gift to remember, think outside the box…

ound on Chmielna 12, Sztuki offer a veritable mine of offbeat art – from graphic works to illustrations via printed photographs and striking collages. And it’s the latter that’s caught our eye this month. Produced by Maria Mróz, and priced at PLN 350, Winter in Warsaw depicts Pasaż Wiecha

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

as shot during the Communist period when it was created as a wider architectural project known as ‘the Eastern wall’. Built to counter-balance the weighty proportions of the nearby Palace of Culture, this development was seen as pioneering at the time. In some ways, so too is this quirky work. Riffing on Mróz’s own childhood memories of the area, the artist has added gigantic chunks of ice to the image in her bid to pass comment on the topic of climate change. “It aims to shows world that never existed, and that will simultaneously never be able to exist either,” says the artist. Released in a limited batch of twenty, and signed by Mróz, this thought-provoking work is guaranteed to lend a thoughtful twist to any wall at home… Sztuki ul. Chmielna 12, sztuki.waw.pl

WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring! For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl

Warsaw Insider June 2022 #310

Articles inside

A legend returns: Blue Cactus review

Hase exhibition

Warsaw’s best fountains and summer views What’s On: June happenings

Kępa food & drink