Vangardist May Issue

ISSUE 35 / June 2013

PROGRESSIVE MEN'S MAGAZINE Progressives online-Magazin

on tour

how to survive in

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designer giuliano fujiwara

Cosmopolitan Fusion

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metropolitan of Bobos and Bonobos in the urban jngle

Shave “Erfinde dich

Kerry Degman, 22, Mo

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Nr . 35 The articles are the reponsibilty of the author and and do not necessarily represent the views of the VANGARDIST.

Impressum: Publisher and Management: VANGARDIST Ltd. & CO. KG Carlos Gómez & Julian Wiehl Editor-In-Chief: Julian Wiehl Head of Production: Carlos Gómez Copy Editor: Klemens Gindl Fashion Director: Mirza Sprecakovic Music Editor: Juán Danilo Zamora Editors: Anna Kan, Monika Palka, Dennis Stephan, Nicholas Lobberecht, Juan Danilo Zamora, Klemens Gindl, David Winterberg Photo Editor: Carlos Gomez Online Assistance: María José Villamil Rodríguez Photographers:Verena Mandragora, Julie Brass, Vratko Barcik Correctors: Andrew Ütt Translation: Lisa Voigt Production and Styling: Mirza Sprecakovic Fashion-Assistance: Margarita Asami, Kevin Morocutti, Peter Dobias Graphics and Layout: Magdalena Weyrer Video Editing and Video Operator: Cristóbal Hornito Sincere thanks to all who, through their tireless efforts, have helped to produce this edition of the VANGARDIST. VANGARDIST Ltd. & CO. KG Mariahilferstraße 124 Top 10 - 1070 Vienna, Austria

MEHR INFOS

Dear Vangardists, Who doesn’t like to walk on the sunny side of life? At rooftop parties high above the streets, snacking on tasty bites from the complementary buffet and getting in the right mood for a crazy night at the open bar. Yet, in many ways, our sophisticated high culture is often just a more refined way to achieve the instant satisfactions of our age-old basic needs.

Our biggest luxury today is that we can give priority to the celebration of all of our non-essential desires over the basic need for a full belly and in the process come up with ever innovative variations of pleasure. The most creative ones can be found in all those places with an abundance of material goods: the big cities, the natural habitat of any VANGARDIST. Welcome to our metropolitan issue.

Our man in the US is going to introduce us to four different ways of experiencing Chicago. Since Austrian Airlines has direct flights to this Midwestern metropolis, it has been high up on our “favourite city trips” list. Asian mega-cities are the focus of Michael Wolf’s art, who captures them in impressively atmospheric pictures.

For the fashion editorial, our head of the fashion department, Mr. M., got to be the first to go wild inside the newly refurbished wing of Hotel Bristol and its traditional luxury. As a special feature, the theme of this month’s photo spread is based on the film The Place Beyond the Pines – unfortunately without its lead actors Ryan Gosling and Eva Mendes.

Enjoy our metropolitan issue!

Julian Wiehl and the cosmopolitan VANGARDIST team!

SHOOTINGS

Topics

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one of those days

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place beyond the pines 58

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i need a dollar

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COVERYSTOR

radar

the urban jungle

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OF Bobos and Bonobos

vangART

AIMING HIGH–BUT NEVER LOSING SIGHT OF THINGS 104 Michael Wolf

INDEX EDITORIAL

10

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Editor's Choice

74

Style tip facade

Shopzone

116

balance

Beauty

96

Quick action products: always prepared on tour

how to survive in chicago

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City of Eclectic Men on tour

Places

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Metropolitan Feeling vangART

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Recommendations for good listeners

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Giuliano Fujiwara Cosmopolitan Fusion

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GOSLING

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R E G i S S E u R

V o n

bLuE VALEnTinE

Ab 13. juni im Kino!

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radar

The urban jungle of bobos and bonobos

Text: dennis stephan / Collages: Magdalena Weyrer

What’s a metropolis if not a jungle of steel beams and concrete walls? When man still had considerably more hair on his behind, he was roaming the prairies, caves, and forests of this planet. Today his habitat and hunting ground are the metropolises that he shares with up to 35 million of his fellow man. Larking about at rooftop parties, sipping champagne, and cursing those taxis that don’t stop as you try to flag them down is what we now refer to as “civilisation.” That the Homo erectus urbanicus (please don’t make this an officially accepted anthropological term!) leads a rather civilised life, but in his core hasn’t truly lost many of his primitive caveman instincts, has now been demonstrated by our own recent empirical (though not entirely scientific) observations of our species.

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Jo is a great guy. Born in the eastern German state of Thüringen, he moved to Berlin four years ago to pursue his studies. Today he is working for a marketing company as a project manager, organising campaigns for large and small clients. Jo is a bog-standard 26year old. He drinks coffee in the morning, he pees standing up, he loves open air gigs, and has a passion for trainers. The conclusion we came to after accompanying Jo through his urban jungle for one day was that apes, too, are only human – and the other way around.

O bserva t ion one : an old ape in a new coat When looking into Jo’s wardrobe, one notices that nothing seems to be lacking in it; it includes everything from casual to fancy (this guy owns more blazers than Angela Merkel!). The freedom of choice has often been a curse for Jo though, because if there’s one blunder the cosmopolitan urbanite should not

commit, it’s dressing badly.

One phenomenon that has influenced your average western cityscape like no other over the last ten years is that of the chic, well-groomed man. Men looking after their appearances like only women used to do – independent of whether these men are into people of the same or the opposite sex, vegetables or whatever – are now a part of urban life that’s as normal as rush hour.

Since the end of the last century, men have been allowed to care about fashion again, and are now free to carry their wallets around in little Louis Vuitton purses and smear anti-aging cream under their tired eyes. If you think that the body cult was invented by David Beckham though, you are very mistaken. Since primeval times, men of all cultures have adorned themselves, and even in the animal kingdom it’s usually the males of the species that are the colourful ones who appeal to females with their impressive plumage, quivering flaps of skin, or majestic

antlers. Human men seem to now be trying to copy this tradition. According to the research magazine New Scientific, our outward appearance says a lot about our social status. Already in former times, a well-groomed mane would tell everyone that the man whose head it graced had decreed that his underlings would groom it for him. And today? Well, today our man Jo has an undercut, a hairstyle having

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long since joined the mainstream, and carefully twirls a few unruly strands of hair into place with a bit of pomade, and dresses in a combination of COS and Urban Outfitters. He’s quite a hipster, our Jo. In the last couple of years the beard has had a comeback, just like the unashamed celebration of body hair – it’s back to nature! But men already liked to show off their social status long before the invention of Nivea for Men, Head & Shoulders, and all the other fripperies that us modern-day Adonises feel empowered by.

Numerous archeological findings have shown that the size of a man’s weapon also determined his place in the social hierarchy: the bigger and more impressive the thing was, the more prestige was granted to its owner. Sound familiar? We’d definitely say so!

Another prestige object that continues to be highly popular among men of all social classes is the car.

The faster his set of wheels, the more polished its paint, the more its chassis resembles a phallus, the more it inflates its owner’s ego (unfortunately, no substantial evidence exists that proves that our ancestors sped around on pimped-out mammoths).

O bserva t ion t w o : tribal behaviour on the dance floor At night, Jo likes to have a few drinks with his mates. With Bennet, for example, or Marcel, who can drink like a fish – no, a whale! After all, proper manto-man friendships are a guarantee for climbing the social ladder. In the case of the macaque monkeys this has

even been scientifically proven. Some scientists from Göttingen have recently found out that those monkeys with tighter male alliances would quickly move up in ranks, whereas those that didn’t invest anything in their friendships would either eventually lose their social position or remain outsiders from the start. Well, you might say, that’s just the macaques, though.

22

fers to be in the company of his mates So let’s forget about them for a minute, because he feels safe and protected because it doesn’t matter what type of when they’re around, and no one monkey, as literally all of them – from understands him quite like they do.

Rafiki to Bonobono to King Kong – are pack animals, which means they de- O bserva t ion t h ree : the hunting instinct pend on the group to protect them and captured prey and can only survive inside the collective. Interestingly, the social be- Back when the prairie was still expanhaviour of the urbanite also reflects sive, the jungle still dense, and our this instinct. Have you ever been so- food still walked around on four legs, ber enough at a party to observe the man came up with the division of lagroup dynamics a little? At any pub or bour. Predestined by physical advanclub of any genre, whether it’s in Berlin, tages, males were assigned the role New York, Amsterdam or London, we of the bloodthirsty hunter who would usually stand together in small herds attack his prey with spears and axes – either on the dance floor or beside – or at least that’s what the anti-femiit – screeching happily when a familiar nist Darwinists claim, when they go on member of the pack approaches or de- about how the average male is taller, fending our territory with icy looks and of stronger build, and endowed with dismissive poses. Parties are the mod- a better sense of spatial perception ern-day agora: this is where we submit than the “homo parietalis.” ourselves to strict hierarchies, treat our Today, we no longer have to lie in wait dealer like he’s superior to us, or os- to catch our roast beef because we can tentatiously play the alpha male. And just purchase our beer and chips, and once again, Jo is no exception: He pre- every possible type of exotic fruit – re-

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gardless of the season – right at the street corner, no matter what the hour. Nevertheless, the urge to hunt is still in us; we’ve just found ways to compensate for the actual thing (not that we had much choice in the matter, since all our prior hunting grounds have been converted into pavement).

Jo’s passion is landing new advertising clients; the bigger the client, the greater his ambition. Recently, he persuaded a major German brewery (we promised we’d only allude to the name “Warsteiner” at this point) to let his company collaborate with and

design a sponsoring model for them.

And believe it or not, closing a deal like that makes Jo happy, because men satisfy a great part of their hunting urge with the pursuit of success at work.

There’s a more “practical” way to achieve the same goal though: consumption. When the Homo erectus urbanicus goes mental about every year’s hot smartphone, completely ignoring the fact that it’s nothing but a piece of plastic made in China with a piece of fruit imprinted on it, this wild pursuit resembles a hunt. In our (western) world, where no man’s body is actually starved for food any longer, his psyche lusts after material goods. Other occasions that turn us into wild beasts are sales like the vintage one at Weekday on Berlin’s Friedrichstraße, which find us, along with approximately 350 other “hungry” hunters, tearing our textile prey off the shelves (for those of

you who don’t know what I’m talking about, have a look at this video. observa t ion fo u r : The rutting call of the urban animal So we’ve finally arrived at the topic that we have all been waiting for, the thing that elates us males like no other: procreation.

Jo is 26 and doesn’t like to talk about his sex life, so we’ll go on and spill some beans for him, because we’re familiar with what goes on between his sheets.

Jo changes his sex partners like other people change notes for small change.

That’s certainly nothing we object to, because after all, one of the benefits of big cities over life in smaller communities is the limitless selection of sex partners. If Jo is the kind of person who’s only after satisfying his sex drive, chances are it doesn’t much matter to him if what he invites into his bed is a woman, a guy, a drag queen or a grapefruit, and he’s certainly not alone

with this view. Some social biologists claim that the reason many men are so promiscuous in their pursuit of sex is that this type of hunting behaviour still stems from our genetic heritage from the Stone Age. Because, even if some of us have chosen to forget it, the original purpose of two bodies entwined in a passionate embrace was to guarantee the survival of our species. There’s one advantage we have over our hairy ancestors though: We’re able to procreate all year round. On the downside, this results in a continuous effort to woo potential partners. By the way: When it comes to sex, many animals don’t distinguish a difference between male and female either. According to at least some research, brotherly love supposedly fortifies the social structures inside primate groups – which takes us back to the beginning of our story.

So after tirelessly ranging the jungle we’d like to know: What does all this mean for our research? Unfortunately, Darwin was more right than some of us like to hear: Our ancestors were apes who sauntered through the primeval forests naked, scratched their balls, stuffed their faces with greens and insects, and knew what they had to do when their kindred’s asses turned red. And as lovely as this kind of life may sound now, evolution is merciless and the apes’ plans for a peaceful future of their species unfortunately got monkeywrenched. So, here we are now,

us poor humans. After millions of years and numerous stages of humanization, we’re finally walking upright, working IT jobs, constructing nuclear power plants, and trying to work off our fat bags at the gym. But if you contemplate the modern man and his behaviour a bit more closely, you’ll (almost) realise with something like dismay: it’s true! We do sip champagne at pool parties, saunter down shopping streets to satisfy our greed for consumption and enjoy all the benefits that the

urban jungle has on offer, but at the end of the day we’re all just primates that have taught themselves how to wipe their bums with toilet paper. You, Jo, us, all of us. Let’s face it, everyday male behaviour in the big city is still quite archaic. It’s great how far we’ve come, but to be honest, it seems like this whole cultural history of ours has just been a pretty complicated detour that always takes us back to the same thing: how to satisfy our good old basic instincts of eating, drinking, and sex. On that note: Yabadabadoo!Sinne: Yabadabadoo!

Jakub: Jacket & pants Ute Ploier shirt Diesel Filip: shirt Die sel Shorts Ute Ploie r

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Fashion Editor Mirza Sprecakovic www.mirzasprecakovic.blogspot.com Photography

Julie Brass

www.juliebrass.com

Hair & Make Up Alexandra Elena www.alexandraelena.com Models Jakub Z. & Filip H. / exitmm.sk Leah / stellamodels.comm Making Of Crist贸bal Hornito

m o r eg M a k iont o s of F re he

One of those d ay s . making of

photography: Crist贸bal Hornito editing: Crist贸bal Hornito Interpret/ Track: King Vitaman / Minimal Public Domain Electronic #1

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ON TOUR TEXT: Nicholas Lobberecht photos: matthias heschl

POWERED BY

Chicago, the third largest city in the U.S. right behind New York and Los Angeles, is the Mecca of the American Midwest. It is home to the Cloud Gate mirrored bean, commercialized hipsters, the original Playboy mansion, and the iconic American figures President Obama and Oprah Winfrey, though visitors will also get a random amount of Midwestern culture. Chicago is a cold city: eight months of the year individuals live in their pea coats and down jackets, but when summer arrives, Chicago is the place to be.

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While many city dwellers try to escape their cities during summer for countryside escapes, Chicagoans remain put. You will enjoy beaches, outdoor restaurants, swanky clubs, and charming neighborhoods. Don’t even think about skipping the West Wing of the Art Institute, shopping on Michigan Avenue, or the Ferris Wheel rides and cotton candy at Navy Pier.

Chicago lies stoically alongside Lake Michigan, and behind the shadow of

the skyline are the colors, sites, and sounds of a mega-metropolis. When arriving at O’Hare International, the largest airport in the U.S., you will be lead by conveyor belt to the city’s veins, the train lines of the Chicago Transit Authority. After a 40-minute commute

by CTA train to downtown, you will be greeted with Midwestern friendliness that is not common in many metropolises.

In this city there are certain breeds

of men, and in order to survive, you must follow their styles and their lead.

Chicago born-and-bred men demonstrate their lifestyles in the way they dress, the places they go, and the careers they build. They carry these values like badges, and what better way to show one’s badge than by being the most authentic of one’s own category of manliness.

Here are the following guidelines to behaving like a real Chicago man:

The Business Executive Man The high roller and business man will lavish his senses and self-esteem at The Peninsula Chicago. Possessing a Hong Kong aesthetic with an American twist, you can sit in your international room, sipping a mimosa and gazing out at the view of Chicago. In the cocktail lounge, don’t be surprised to bump shoulders with Lady Gaga or Justin Bieber, considering this is one of their favorite places to go in Chicago.

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As an executive man on the go, a worry you might have is how to not disrupt your workout schedule. The East Bank Club will surely fit your gym standards.

Hop on the treadmill, swim laps in the rooftop pool, or relax at the spa, surrounded by Chicago’s politicians and other elites – you might even see President Obama in the locker room. Right around the corner of the Peninsula, you will discover the Ralph Lauren flagship store. Pick up a fresh shirt, tie, and shoes for your meeting in the morning.

But be especially sure to make a reservation for the Ralph Lauren Restaurant, where you will be surrounded by dark navy walls, gold aristocratic picture frames, and leather-bound books and feel like you are actually in Ralph Lauren’s own home.

To round off the night in similar aristocratic fashion, head over to the legendary Pump Room to indulge in some more elegant metropolitan American style. Inspired by the bath houses of Europe, golden orbs loom overhead as guests dine at light sandalwood tables – in order to not take away from the colorful aesthetic of the meal. Gold leaf covers the back bar, and sultry lounges are opened for entertaining a significant other you might happen to

meet. Later in the evening, it begins to resemble a posh club scene. Jetsetters from Quebec will take up their post at a table, girls from Japan will be buzzing around the couches, and American executives will “let their hair down” after a long week of work.

Continue on your Chicago binge the next morning with brunch at Lux Bar where chic black and white tiled floor and bold wood designer tables fill the scene. Set yourself up outside with a cup of coffee, a pair of sunglasses, and a big glass of water to cure your hangover. Enjoy a light breeze and sunny skies to reminisce on your business trip to the Windy City.

The Adventurous Artist Man Arriving at the W Hotel Chicago, this man’s design senses will be satisfied by the hotel’s vibrant colors and contemporary luxury style. Work out on Lake Michigan with a grand path of trees, beaches, runners, cyclists and skylines to keep the eye and body occupied. Lakeshore Bicycle has bikes for rent: take a friend along and enjoy a bright sunny day. For some art appreciation, Nicholas Zahn, owner of Degenerate Art Gallery, has modern and unique pieces that are perfect for

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the adventurous artist man. The gallery caters to activist artists as well as boisterous abstract contemporaries. This is not your sleepy art gallery, so expect to find local and international artists making bold statements on everything from sexting to animal cruelty. Afterwards, how about a few drinks with friends at Pops For Champagne? Its ambience – warm lighting and crackled iridescent tables – feels as if you are sitting in a champagne glass. Take a seat at the bar, order a decadent cocktail, and watch the latest fashion runway shows on the television screens. In need of some shopping?

A block away is Haberdash Men’s boutique, a mix of classic style and street wear. With brands ranging from Monocole, Red Wing Shoes, Rag & Bone, and Apolis Global Citizen. Any man with a fashion sense could buy the whole store if his American Express allowed it.

This man’s spirit will be itching to create, and luckily, Chicago’s underground scene holds something near and dear to him: Nuts & Bolts is A DIY Dance Party hosted the first Tuesday of every month at Township.

This scene will satisfy this man’s inno-

vative taste buds with color, fashion, and night life. Bring your innovative creativity, because the most eccentric fashion statements are the highlights of this party.

The starving artist will find cheap and chic at the Buffalo Exchange, the trendiest thrift store in the city. Secret gems can be found here – you never know when you’ll come across a pair of Jeffrey Campbells or even a 1980 Members Only jacket.

To keep in check with hipster protocol, veganism and anything glutenfree must be your diet or else. The artist man will grab lunch down the street at Native Foods where he can score vegan burgers, wraps, and cupcakes that will satisfy his desires for food as he watches his non-hipster friends eat. He will continue more hipster adventures at Scarlet, a bar with a British nightlife vibe with pop and rap music. The crowd at this spot is that rare breed of gay hipster boys from art school dancing the night away. To end off your artistic vacation, finish off with a nice stroll around Chicago’s art district Pilsen. Beautiful graffiti covers the streets, for this, the final scene in your well-rested weekend in America’s hipster capital.

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The Industrail Rave Man The industrial man will be at the Hostelling International Chicago to save cash for the night. During the daytime, he is kicking back at Hollywood Beach, where sexual tension is at an all-time high thanks to men in scandalous bathing suits, and clear waters invite you to take a dip to cool off. Or perhaps he will be on North Avenue Beach, where it looks like a spring break video on

MTV is taking place with beach volleyball, plus drunken boys and girls making out in the sand. When the sun turns off, and the night turns on, get ready for Chicago’s nightlife. In need of some high street fashion, the rave man will find some new digs at RSVP Gallery.

Its brands range from Givenchy, Play Comme des Garcons, Billionaire Boys Club, and ACNE. The rave kids wear all black, with eccentric makeup, boots,

and ripped up graphic tees. A popular spot is Berlin Nightclub, with original house music. You can find any type of person at Berlin Nightclub, from gay, straight, or questionable sexual orientation. This club stays open until 4 a.m., so get ready to party. If you are feeling a little weary from dancing, take a quick stop next door to Cheesies. Get a loaded grilled cheese sandwich with a beer that will have you stuffed, and

perhaps battling indigestion for days, but it’s well worth it. In Chicago, there are bars that stay open until 2 a.m., and others that stay open to 4 a.m. If you’re ready for a change of scenery, travel over to the VFW. Typically these bars are for those who were Veterans of Foreign Wars, but not in Chicago.

Here, the industrial man will join his hipster friends who are clamoring for tables, smoking cigarettes, and sing-

ing karaoke. If you feel you’re in need of a little snack, surprise – they have popcorn at your beck and call.

If you didn’t die from your hangover and come here in August, you have to leave one day to the music festival Lollapalooza to see headliners like Lana Del Rey, Crystal Castles, Kendrick Lamar, and Vampire Weekend – the final sounds of your neon weekend in Chicago.

The American Collegiate Man During the day the collegiate man is posted in a classroom studying at Columbia College, Loyola, or DePaul.

Once class is out, he plays music in the park, lying on a blanket, smoking, and day-drinking with friends. If you want a feel of life at American state universities, The Cedar Hotel will deliver this atmosphere for you. A Wisconsin state school bar, the energy gets rowdy as the night progresses. With so many tables outside you and your friends can mix and mingle around the area in the comfort of a warm summer evening.

If you want to join in on the ultimate college festivity, sign up for the pub crawl that many go on in the summer: simply search for “pub crawl” at www. chicago.cbslocal.com to find an array of upcoming events. With an energet-

ic environment, and a college crowd, prepare for anything and everything to happen. The Red Ivy, a sports bar home to the state school hoes and bros, provides for every shameless flirt. Don’t even think about sitting: the bar is a large open space to get your dance on and pick up a random boy or girl for a night of play. The next morning, the collegiate American man and his friends will wake up bright and early for “Brunch Gone Wild,” a gay night club by night, and sunny day spot by morning where you can relax and ponder over the mistakes and good times you had on your collegiate weekend.

Chicago, the Windy City, has many styles of men who have common interests but are all very much individuals. Many of these men have done all of these things we’ve described – it’s a melting pot of social scenes and accepts any individual that is willing to enjoy them. Try each social bubble and you will surely find a little of yourself in all of them. Be active and open in the daylight, and at night let the city harbor your most cynical ideas. The city will hold your hand, as long as you hold its hand back. Chicago is a place to become the man you always wanted yourself to be.

FACTBOX Chicago

The Peninsula Chicago 108 E Superior St. Chicago, IL 60611 (312 )337-2888 The East Bank Club 500 N Kingsbury St. Chicago IL 60654 (312) 527-5800 The Pump Room Chicago 1301 N State Pkwy Chicago, IL 60610 (312) 229-6740 Lux Bar 18 E Bellevue Pl Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 642-3400

Pops For Champagne 601 N State St Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7677 W Hotel 172 W Adams St, Chicago, IL 60603 (312) 332-1200 Lakeshore Bike 1604 N Lake Shore Dr Chicago (312) 720-5964 Degenerate Art Gallery 5554 N. Winthrop Chicago IL 60640 (262) 408 0305

Ralph Lauren 750 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 280-1655

Pops For Champagne 601 N State St Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7677

W Hotel: Chicago 172 W Adams St Chicago, IL 60603 (312) 332-1200

Haberdash Men’s Shop 607 N State St Chicago, IL 60654 (312) 624-8551

© flickr, ND Strupler

Township 2200 N California Ave Chicago, IL 60647 (773) 384-1865

Berlin Nightclub 954 W Belmont Ave Chicago, IL 60657 (773) 348-4975

Buffalo Exchange 1478 N. Milwaukee Ave. Chicago, IL 60642 (773) 227-9558

Cheesies 958 W Belmont Ave Chicago, IL 60657 (773) 388-1574

Native Foods Cafe 1484 N Milwaukee Ave Chicago, IL 60622 (773) 489-8480

VFW 1000 N. Milwaukee Chicago, IL

Scarlet Bar 3320 N Halsted St Chicago, IL 60657 (773) 348-1053 Hostelling International Chicago 24 E Congress Pkwy Chicago, IL 60605 (312) 360-0300

Cedar Hotel 1112 N State St Chicago, IL 60610 (312) 944-1112 CBS Chicago www.chicago.cbslocal.com/top-lists/ best-upcoming-pub-crawls-in-chicago/ Red Ivy 3525 N Clark St Chicago, IL 60657 (773) 472-0900

RSVP Gallery Mini Bar 1753 N Damen Ave Chicago, IL 60647 3341 N Halsted St Chicago, IL 60657 (773) 770-6666 (773) 871-6227

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Fashion Editor

Mirza Sprecakovic

www.mirzasprecakovic.blogspot.com

Photography

Verena Mandragora

www.verenamandragora.com

Hair & Make Up Alexandra Elena

www.alexandraelena.com

Models

Matus Juran & Barbora Sencakova

mmanagement.sk

Babymodel Dino Spahic Assistant Kevin Morocutti, T homas Kremser Making Of

Margar ita Asami

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Photography: Cr istóbal Hor nito editing: Cr istóbal Hor nito Interpret / Track: Löhstana David / Dèjà tout bu

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FACADE

Editor‘S Choice:

style

T IP

Glasses by Lindberg

Shirt by Antony Morato

Belt by Balenciaga

Glasses by BOSS Black

Shorts by 3.1 Phillip Lim

Watch by Hublot

Sneakers by Givenchy

Mobile case Givenchy

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Eye creme by La Prairie

Shoes by Hey-Mr! Of Lukรกcs & Lutsak

Socks by Kenzo

Ice Watch by Swatch

Chair by Vitra by Antonio Citterio

Briefcase by Ermenegildo Zegna

stylE

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Outfit Alexander McQueen

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Pullover Vladimir Karaleev, Shorts Aurelia Paumelle, Shoes Allsaints

Hat Urban Outfitters, Shirt Aurelia Paumelle, Jacket Cornelia Bรถlke

Jacket Aurelia Paumelle, Pullover Vladimir Karaleev, Socks O' Neal, Shoes Dienne

Photography Vratko Barcík

www.vratkobarcik.com STYLING Timo Blum Hair & Make Up Timo Blum

www.timoblum.blogspot.de Model Erik Reisinger / viva models Assistant Peter Dobias

www.photographypeterdobias.com Thanks to Aurelia Paumelle

aureliapaumelle.com Cornelia Bölke Müller PR &Consulting

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Giuliano Fujiwara Cosmopolitan Vintage

Text:ana kaan Photos: GIULIANO FUJIWARA COLLECTION

Giuliano Fujiwara brings together the best of two worlds: Japanese minimalism and Italian savoir-faire. Under the guidance of its Italian creative director, Sergio Daricello, the label is currently experiencing a kind of renaissance, and during Milan Fashion Week it simultaneously presented two new collections for men with a proclivity for the avant-garde.

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S

ergio Daricello already managed to get everyone’s attention with the first collection he designed for the Japanese/Italian label. Inspired by film character Sebastian Valmont (who could ever forget Ryan Philippe in Cruel Intentions, the US adaptation of the classic Dangerous Liaisons?) he designed a look for self-assured men and experimented with the contrasts between classic bespoke tailoring and minimalism. With both his Autumn/Winter 2013 line and the New Vintage Capsule collections, the label has already been a Fashion Week talking point and is now being treated as something of an insider tip among the fashion avantgarde.

cultural union

For more than 25 years, constant research and innovation have repeatedly played important roles in the fashionable world of Giuliano Fujiwara. The label’s founder, Yoshiaki Fujiwara, a recognized Japanese fashion designer and buyer for luxury labels, fell in love with Italian beauty and culture, even getting married in an Italian church. Yet in order for this wedding to happen, he had to get baptised.

His new Christian name Giuliano together with his Japanese surname later became the name of his label, which has served as a symbol for the

successful union of the two cultures ever since.

In the 80’s, Giuliano Fujiwara, who is said to be one of the inventors of minimalist fashion, caused a worldwide stir with his aesthetics. During the label’s careful revitalisation, its extraordinary quality and trademark features, characterised by its strict “made in Italy” policy mixed with trendy Japanese details, have been reverentially preserved.

We had the chance to talk to Giuliano Fujiwara CEO Stefano Sacchi about upcoming projects, the unique New Vintage collection, and the cosmopolitan origins and future of the label.

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INTERVIEW: VANGARDIST: Stefano, at Fashion Week in January you presented a collection based on your label’s historical archive. Can you tell us a little bit about that idea?

STEFANO SACCHI: After the successful retrospective in connection with our 25th anniversary, we came up with the idea to use a marketing strategy that would be based on the origin principle. The second step was to design a collection that would re-interpret Giuliano Fujiwara’s very first collection and create a new and modern version of the varsity/college style.

VA: The style of your new 2013 Autumn/ Winter collection is a mix between classic and sporty. Is that the label’s new look?

S: After Yoshiaki Fujiwara’s death in 2001, the label was determined to maintain his sartorial art and minimalist style but has since also moved in the direction of street wear a bit (especially when it comes to our trainers and accessories).

The label’s identity is being preserved thanks to our historical archive and Yoshiaki Fujiwara’s legacy: his teachings, his personal consistency, his passion for design – and not just fashion design, but his quest to find beauty even in the smallest things, imperfections, and asymmetries.

VA:Giuliano Fujiwara sales are also strong on the Asian market. What are the biggest differences between Asian and European men?

S: For many years, our Asian buyers were exclusively Japanese. Quality is extremely important to Japanese men, who are also constantly on the lookout for trends and innovations – sometimes to an extreme.

European men are more moderate, going back and forth between classic and modern styles. They’re interested in trends without having to follow them excessively.

VA: What does the term ’cosmopolitan‘ mean to a label like yours?

S: Cosmopolitan is a concept that we’ve always tried to represent in our collections.

The initially beguiling idea of the ‘cosmopolitan person’ can quickly turn into one of mass globalisation today.

In order to be considered fashionable everywhere around the globe, we

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become mere copies: expensive and branded ones, but widely accepted by the masses.

Our customers should make their purchasing choices based on their own research and enjoyment. The people who buy our products like to experiment with fashion in intelligent ways and preserve a certain playful ease, in spite of all the socioeconomic problems we are experiencing at the moment.

The label is currently revitalising its past, which was characterised by a concept that is still quite cutting edge today and continues to be interesting on many different levels – regarding communication, branding or aesthetics, for example.

VA: What are the label’s central pieces of the Summer 2013 collection?

STEFANO SACCHI: This summer will see a kaleidoscope of colours with electric blue as the guiding theme for both clothes and accessories. The trainers in this collection are certainly an absolute

must-have: Japanese design and Italian manufacturing.

There’s always a risk that trying to revitalise a cult label can backfire slightly, but in the case of Giuliano Fujiwara it has definitely worked. After all, it’s not for nothing that the Japanese concepts of style and beauty have significantly helped bring European modernism forward. The fact that the average Japanese visitor to Europe has an abysmal clothing style often hides the fact that people in Nippon have a very high appreciation of good taste – which is exactly why the combination of Japan’s cultural heritage with Italian fashion is a great one, and something you shouldn’t miss.

The Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter 2013 collections, as well as the New Vintage Capsule collection, are available online exclusively through The Corner website, as well as being carried in select stores in Europe and Asia.

98 BALANCE

Beauty The Boy Scout’s modus operandi is totally accurate for the metropolitan life: you have to deal with an agenda of different activities in no time while looking sharp even at the end of the day. The grooming products for the busy city guy must quickly show results, giving him time to be everywhere he is expected, from a work meeting to a romantic date. Let’s get ready before breakfast gets cold!

text: juan danilo zamora

UlltraMan 3-in-1 Shaving Cream Shaving might be one of the longest grooming processes we have in our daily routine, so how can we make it shorter? The solution is improving the results by using a multi-action product like this shaving cream that is also a moisturizer and a pre-shave hair softener. What we like about this formula is that it doesn’t even need water, so it’s perfect for business trips, music festivals or any other event when you have to be ready at a moment’s notice.

Task Essential New Skin Scrubbing Gel We all know the benefits of peeling (removes dead cells, leaves your face renewed), but if you have no time to go to your dermatologist this product is the perfect option. You can use it at home or after the gym, and it will give you important nutrients like zinc and magnesium. A painless exfoliation that will leave your face ready to go! We like the fast action it has, leaving the face with a soft texture and a clean look.

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Lancôme Men Age Fight Yeux AntiAge Eye Perfecting Gel the enemies of a fresh look, but we have an ally in this battle. This product is so light and penetrates the skin so fast it’s almost unbelievable it has so many benefits: not only is it a relief for puffy eyes, but it helps to prevent the first signs of aging. We recommend this product for sensitive skins or for those who want to prevent wrinkles around their eyes.

Matrix Design Pulse Beach Clay If your summer destination includes a lot of activities, from the beach to the party, you won’t have much time to do your hair properly. That is why it’s important to use a product that gives you the perfect look in just a few seconds to impress your summer love. With a nice and tropical scent, this clay will give you strong hold adding texture to your hair and leaving you with that charming windswept look that is relaxed and sharp at the same time.

Myego Cover Select Liquid Corrector A little party never killed anybody, right? But what if you have that important meeting the next day? Don’t worry; they won’t even notice you have slept for only few hours with this formula that hides dark circles around your eyes leaving them bright and ready for a fresh look. Apply it directly around the affected area and stop worrying about your tired face!

Dr. Dennis Gross Cleansing Foam Nothing says “I’m ready” more than a clean face. Even if you have been working an entire day, keep greasy complexion at bay with a product that takes oiliness away. We recommend this one because the ingredients it uses not only don’t over dry the skin, but they help to prevent acne, keeping in the moistness. Soft with skin, but radical in performance, fighting oiliness from its first use.

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CELEBRATION

y d n a C a n n e i V around the World!

WienTourismus geht mit VANGAR

DIST auf Partytour

WienTourismus startet im Zürcher Boyahkasha die länderübergreifende „Vienna Candy“ Partytour.

Gemeinsam mit internationalen Veranstaltern vor Ort und dem Vangardist Magazin wird die Wiener Kultur des Genusses und Feierns nach Zürich, Berlin, London und Chicago gebracht. Die Eventserie ist Teil der Marketingstrategie Gay & Lesbian-Reloaded, die Wien als Topreiseziel für Schwule und Lesben positioniert.

Am 19. Mai 2013 war es nun soweit: Im Rahmen des „Vienna Candy“ Specials wurde das Plaza Zürich mit überdimensionalen Mannerschnitten, Makronen und einem 2 Meter großen Cup Cake in ein Candy Land verwandelt. Die 1.000 Besucher waren sichtlich begeistert von dem Aufgebot an verführerischer Deko und leckeren Punschwürfeln. Auch DJ Kevin Neon kam extra aus Wien angereist, um einen Vorgeschmack auf die aktive Wiener Partyszene zu geben.

VANGARDIST hat für euch die eindruckvollsten Momente zusammengefasst und freut sich schon auf den nächsten Event im GMF Berlin.

Mehr Fotos gibt’s auf: www.facebook.com/GayCityWien Alle Infos über Wien auf: www.wien.info/schwullesbisch

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VangART

…but never losing sight of things

AIMING HIGH…

michael w o l f

TEXT: monika palka photos: michael wolf

Welcome to foreign territory. And you don’t need an airline ticket to get here.

Thanks to Michael Wolf’s photos, your gaze can travel far and wide without you even having to move a finger. The photographer, born in Munich in 1954, is a three-time World Press Award Winner and captures everything that is usually too high up, too far away, or too fast for viewers’ eyes.

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Michael Wolf grew up in California, went to university in Berkeley, and later attended the Folkwang University of the Arts in Essen, Germany. Before choosing art photography as his field, he worked as a photojournalist for the German news magazine Stern and Wolf has never lost his interest in photojournalism.

Stay away from Wolf’s photo series Architecture of Density or The Transparent City if you are afraid of heights. The pictures of living and working environments located at vertiginous altitudes start off his Life in Cities series and show a dizzying state of suspense between tradition and modernity. The glazed facades of these images are faintly reminiscent of binary codes and transport the viewer into a world of science fiction. Working and living behind the smooth, cool fronts of these modern-day fortresses are, however, real flesh and blood people.

Wolf’s predilection for representing bizarre habitats and living arrangements already began during his studies, when he was avidly experimenting with atypical perspectives. In 1976, he created the black-and-white series Bottrop Ebel 1976, but soon after ended this colourless exploration of different shades of grey. Today, Wolf’s pictures are in colour, even though sober hues prevail. His work portrays metropolitan life and has been exhibited in major cities like Venice, Helsinki, Chicago, New York, and Frankfurt.

Architecture of density

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Factory Workers portraits

Finding his individual style Wolf is not an innovator like his mentor Otto Steinert, who had taught at the Folkwang School since 1959. Instead, Wolf documents things that already exist, and makes experience visual. His visual ensembles are mostly composed of steel, glass, and plastic; only a few human figures are thinly scattered throughout them. The resulting constellations, such as in his series Toy Factory Workers or Tokyo Compression, can be quite vexing. The Tokyo series shows city dwellers in the kind of extreme situations that are typical of life in the mega-cities. Wolf photographed travellers in jam-packed metro cars at rush-hour. The

resulting portraits, taken a second after the doors have slid shut, are unusual and strangely romantic.

Wolf’s combination of still-life, industrial, and portrait photography often brings things to the surface that would otherwise stay invisible or go unperceived. Through an expert positioning of the film plane, the artist creates parallel worlds and new perspectives. Then horizontal and vertical lines that neither plummet nor vanish follow, combined with coloured surfaces that, in the end, become an integral parts of something whole. The depiction of diversity in unity: this is definitely one way to describe Wolf’s work.

Space, light, and perspective Wolf likes to explore factors such as different light sources and their effect on his objects. In this way, the interaction and functional relationships between things become clearer – one could call it something like the basic approach to interior design and style of living. Urban space is transformed into a mere backdrop; long rows of apartments nestle against each other. Wolf acquires great depth without ever having to change position – serial thinking allows you to do that.

Factory Workers portraits

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Appearing then disappearing again This is an endlessly recurring phenomenon in most big cities. With his camera lens, Wolf also illuminates occurrences behind the facades. His interest in his subject matter seems to be of an almost scientific nature: he subjects the picture puzzle that is a metropolis to his experiments. Wolf attempts to structure the urban chaos by aesthetic means. He peels each city like an artichoke. The facades of high-rise buildings represent the outermost layer, and within, he finds his bizarre Corner Houses, incidents in rear courtyards, and Toy Factory Workers until finally in the core of things, a comment on all of this: Fuck You (from his Street View series). For this series, Wolf captured existing Google Street View pictures off the internet and then enlarged them.

These grainy and often extremely pixelated “found footage images” taken from Google’s Street View, earned him an Honourable Mention in the 2011 World Press Photo contest in the Contemporary Issues category.

The course of time Wolf’s pictures are often extremely high-resolution and rich in detail. Once away from the noisy inner cities, they can also exude a great feeling of calm and quiet. Eerily quiet? Especially in his photos of architecture, Wolf takes out all potential noise factors – there are no screaming children, no cars, nothing but fractal geometric images and stimulating light effects dominate these images. In most of his architecture series, objects dominate an entire space and surface. According to one theory, architecture is the material expression of a society, reflecting its character. A city that is constantly growing and in motion not only needs proportionately designed buildings, but also a cultural frame of reference.

The latter is, however, often neutralised by today’s cheap purpose-built architecture, leading to a loss of historicism and architectural autonomy.

And so, Wolf also serves as a witness to and a chronicler of the change in aesthetics over the course of time.

VANGARDIST: Herr Wolf, you’ve

fuck you, serie street view

interview

michael w o l f

moved around a lot, even since childhood. Which city has the best coffee?

Michael Wolf: I think the coffee tastes good everywhere, as long as I have something to read with it.

V: Do you remember your very first photo?

W: Yes, it was one I took of my mother in 1966, with the Polaroid model “Swinger.”

V: As a photographer you are constantly “on the hunt” for new pictures. What satisfies you more, the hunt for a good motif, or the end result?

W: I love the hunt, although I perceive my job more as being a kind of flaneur sauntering around than as a hunt.

V: What is the view from your current flat like?

W: I can see a sea of high-rises and at night I can look right into more than 2,000 other flats.

V: You’re currently living in Hong Kong. What has your experience of this city been like so far?

And could you reveal some of your favourite spots to us?

W: To me, Hong Kong is a constant visual stimulation. I find every minute I spend there exciting – even after 19 years. What I most like is, when it rains really heavily, to ride around the city on a bus, sitting by a

window way up front.

and efficient; it should have air as clean as possible, affordable housing prices, V: How much nature do you need to and cultural diversity. be happy?

W: Not much. I love big cities.

V: What are you working on at the moment?

V: What do you think about projects W: I am continuously working on the like Masdar City, the emission-free different aspects of my favourite city, city in Abu Dhabi scheduled to be Hong Kong. completed by 2020?

W: I think that, first of all, we should V: Herr Wolf, thank you for this interraise our own level of consciousness. view.

It has been established that 30 to 50% of all food produced around the world ends up being wasted instead of ever The curious viewer landing in someone’s stomach. This If your curiosity has now been aroused, is an unacceptable situation. And I’ve you should have a look at Wolf’s work noticed how I myself waste food on a on the internet or in one of his thirteen daily basis, so I’m now trying to treat different photo books. our resources more carefully.

The attentive viewer will soon notice that Wolf never acts as a “translator” of V: Please describe your “Idealpolis” his pictures, nor is he, strictly speaking, an innovator. What he does is experito us.

W: It should be located near an ocean, ment and represent – without comment. all of its important locations should be reachable within 25 minutes, and pub- See more of Michael Wolfs photos : lic transport should be well-organised www.photomichaelwolf.com

116 facade

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on tour

Places

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i ta i l o p etro

n

g n i l fee

m

The

ME Hotel London

www.melia.com Text: David Winterberg

In the heart of London’s West End the ME has recently opened its doors. The harmonious fusion between interior and exterior

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is thanks to Foster & Partner, who designed everything from the faรงade to the mountings and fixtures. The design focus is on clean lines combined with luxurious materials.

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Galaxy Soho Peking

www.galaxysoho.sohochina.com

The Galaxy Soho project is a shopping and entertainment complex covering 330,000 square metres. Its architecture is a composition made up of five large open spaces which converge into each other via a network of bridge spans. The

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design, implemented under the management of Zaha Hadid Architects, is a dynamic form of flowing volumes, without edges or abrupt transitions that would break the fluidity of the formal composition.

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One One One Eagle Street Brisbane

www.oneoneonebrisbane.com.au

111 Eagle Street is the centrepiece of a trio of towers that mark Brisbane's renowned Riverside Precinct. Like a tree whose branches grow upwards toward the light, its columns were placed in a pattern resembling that of the branches of a fig tree, and

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are visible through the fully glazed glass faรงade covering its 45 storeys. With a focus on sustainable design, the architectural firm Cox Rayner has created a visually unique tower architecture which blends perfectly into the urban landscape.

Be A vang artist

! u o y t n a w we

VANGARDIST is looking for VANGARDISTs YOU are a journalist, photographer, model, graphic designer, musician, illustrator, videographer or just a creative person?

We can present your work in our magazine!

For more information write an e-mail to us: redaktion@vangardist.com

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VANGART

listen to this!

s n o i t a d n a m o Music rec s r e n e t s li d o for go

Classixx HANGING GARDENS

Justice ACCESS ALL ARENAS

As remixers, the producer from Clasixx Live albums were popular in the 80s gave us summer tunes to remember and early 90s, but now the French (like that amazing version of Lisztomaduo is bringing this trend to a new nia by Phoenix). Now is their turn to decade. Some may think you have to amaze us with original sounds. Their be in a concert to really feel the vibe debut album has a blissful feeling, of the crowd, but it’s interesting to meant for the summer days. Electronic hear the new versions of songs like music at its finest, sophisticated and D.A.N.C.E. and On N’ On, and the provocative songs that will be the per- climax of the album with the We Are fect soundtrack for everlasting memoYour Friends sample. If you went to ries. The first single Holding On has all their live act last year it’s a good opthe ingredients to become a hit, and portunity to have a souvenir of it, and we can’t wait to jump in the pool if you didn’t, now you have the chance while its playing! to be part of the audience. go to amazon.com go to amazon.com

Text: Juan Danilo Zamora

Vampire Weekend MODERN VAMPIRES OF THE CITY Following their hit album Contra (2010), this indie band brings new music, just in time for the summer. Perfect for an outdoor party while watching the sunset on a terrace, Modern Vampires of the City is an ode to cities like New York, a blend between the trademark sounds they had before with a rock vibe that is refreshing. We can tell that the band wanted to make an experiment, and it worked in a fantastic way. Maybe is a darker twist to what we heard before, but we like it!

Ya Hey is a song that represents the vibrant mood of this album. go to amazon.com

Iggy Azalea THE NEW CLASSIC Summer is here and the race for the anthem of the season has a new contender. Without releasing a full album, Iggy Azalea is kicking some asses, including that of Azealia Banks and Nicki Minaj, with a mix between pure rap and electronic sounds. The new girl on the block took the radios by storm with her hit Work, a song with strong lyrics that left clear who’s bossing the music scene, and now with her new single Bounce she is giving us a Bollywood party vibe that is definitely a summer song. While we wait for her full album to get released this summer, we can enjoy the strong lyrics and the fierce looks of this white trash princess. go to amazon.com

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CELEBRATION

UP Coming ! 's t a h W

? n i on

// vienna VIENNA PRIDE 2013 / June 11–16

Where troubles melt like lemon drops, away above the chimney tops, that's where you'll find me… Im Juni ist es einmal wieder so weit: Zu Ehren der Aufstände von Lesben und Schwulen gegen polizeiliche Willkür im Juni 1969 in der New Yorker Christopher Street hüpfen wir wie Glücksbärchen durch die Regenbogenparaden dieser Welt und feiern, dass wir nun einmal sind, was wir sind. Die Mischung aus politischem Engagement und Singlebörse beginnt dieses Jahr im Pride Village am Heldenplatz. VANGARDIST schwenkt da natürlich auch ein buntes Fähnchen. www.hosiwien.at/regenbogenparade

// Chicago NEw! Vienna Candy / June 29 Studio 6 House of Blues, 329 N Dearborn St, Chicago 60654 Together with Vienna Tourism, the VANGARDIST is travelling across the big pond and stopping over in Chicago. We want to take the glamour of Vienna to the Midwestern metropolis so it can cause a stir there as well. The party is taking place at the legendary House of Blues, a music theatre with a grand stage for performances and live acts, as well as stucco-adorned balconies that remind you of an opera house – the perfect location for a Vienna Candy Special. From 11 p.m., electro house will further ignite the heated crowd after the Chicago Gay Pride parade. A true 2013 highlight!

// BERLIN NEw! GMF – Vienna Candy Special / June 23, 11:00 pm Weekend Club, Alexanderstr. 7, 10178 Berlin-Mitte Vienna Tourism and the VANGARDIST will be dancing through the metropolis. Only one day after the big CSD Parade in Berlin, the famous GMF at the Weekend Club is celebrating the Vienna Candy Special. Export hit DJ Kevin Neon will put the crowd into a frenzy up on the 16th “pop floor,” while one floor up you can indulge in the finest electro tunes. The rooftop terrace will be open as well for all those who want to take in the summer night atmosphere high up over Berlin and meet the hippest guys in town, as well as international city-hoppers. Three floors, an exciting crowd, and sweet surprises await! www.week-end-berlin.de

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// Houston SLEAZY MADRID / Juni 28, ab 8:00 pm Bayou Music Center, 520 Texas The desert is grooving – no, seriously! Avenue, Houston The biggest electro party worldwide, the Electric Daisy Carnival, is going to You’ve stumbled through a rabbit take place in dusty Nevada. And al- hole, your nose full of hallucinogenic though the US is not necessarily known substances, and straight into wonderfor its electronic music, the EDC is land – that’s exactly what Wonderland dishing up the full menu. “From Dusk Houston feels like! The only scene partill Dawn” is this year’s motto, which ty in Houston taking place on a regular means you’ll be dancing from night- basis will take you on a trip to the land fall until the early hours of dawn – for behind the mirror: pulsating music, hot three days! More than 300,000 visitors go-go dancers, glitter and flitter, plus and over 150 music acts, plus art instal- loads and loads of twitching, twirling lations, amusement rides, a 15-minute bodies. On the turntables will be DJ pyro-extravaganza and unstoppable Brett Henrichsen, the man with the turntables. If you want to experience most beautiful musculus rectus abdothe capital city of slot machines in a minis in the boom bang world of mumusical frenzy, you’d better get your sic! Our advice: Just follow the white rabbit… ticket now at: www.wonderlandhouston.com www.electricdaisycarnival.com // Las Vegas ELECTRIC DAISY CARNIVAL / June 21–23

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m o r eg M a k iont o s of F re he

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