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Imprint: Publisher and Management: VANGARDIST MEDIA GmbH Carlos Gómez & Julian Wiehl
The articles are the reponsibilty of the author and do not necessarily represent the views of the VANGARDIST.
Publisher and Management: Carlos Gómez & Julian Wiehl Editor-In-Chief: Julian Wiehl Production Manager: Carlos Gómez Copy Editor: Klemens Gindl Fashion Editor: Mirza Sprecakovic Music Editor: Juán Danilo Zamora Editorial Staff: Dennis Stephan, Klemens Gindl, Christoph Daniel, Juán Danilo Zamora, Mario Kollinger, Mirza Sprecakovic, Evelyn Höllrigl, Andrés Damm Photo Editor: Carlos Gómez Online Assistance: María José Villamil Rodríguez Photography: Tom Binder, Vratko Bracik Correctors: Jay Bannmuller Translation: Lisa Voigt Correctors: (English): Andrew Ütt Production and Styling: Mirza Sprecakovic Graphics and Layout: Magdalena Weyrer Illustration: Ruth Moosbrugger Video Editing / Video Operator: Cristóbal Hornito Making of: Cristóbal Hornito, Tamara Pichler Sincere thanks to all who, through their tireless efforts, have helped to produce this edition of the VANGARDIST. VANGARDIST MEDIA GmbH Mariahilferstraße 49 Top 15 - 1060 Vienna
Editorial Dear VANGARDISTS! Welcome to our frontier issue. Never before has the one-world mentality been as palpable as today. While politics and the media are generally quite happy to rile up people from different cultural backgrounds against each other, most of our social media accounts are bustling with friends and acquaintances from all over the globe. The world is moving closer and closer together, and our traditions and identities have been thrown into the giant blender that is multiculturalism. All that is reason enough for us to dedicate this issue to the question of how much sense the concept of national identity still makes today and to take a good look at the cultural mix our "interconnected world" has produced. Everyone who’s not been aware of how hard-nosed life can be in the modern melting pots will certainly know after looking at our “Untamed”-photo editorial. With his customary excellence, Mr. M. shows us what style befits the ethnowarrior of the future. The ideal designer for this look already exists in the form of George Styler. His ethno-futuristic creations make us aware of the tight-knit connections between tradition, cultures and nationality. For his current collection, for example, he brings together traditional patterns from Serbia, African prints and elements from British punk. And as a nice round-off, we let photographer Jimmy Nelson’s images take us on a trip into the lives of indigenous tribes from Ethiopia to Ecuador and Northern Siberia whose ancient traditions have, so far, been unspoilt by the doings of the rest of us. Hoping you’ll enjoy our boundless frontier issue are, Julian Wiehl and his multi-cultural VANGARDIST team
SHOOTINGS
topics
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In love we trust
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COVER STORY
radar
No border, no nation?
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Is the end of the nation our future?
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unTAMED
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George Styler and his interwoven worlds
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INDEX EDITORIAL
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Editor's Choice
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Style tip facade
Shopzone
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balance
Beauty
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exotic tinctures for stressed skin on tour
how to survive in ibiza
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Ibiza is not only for partying on tour
Places
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Isolation vangART
listen to this! Recommendations for good listeners
vangART
BEfore they pass away‌ Jimmy Nelson Photography
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celebration
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Upcoming What‘s on in...?
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radar
No
border, no nation?
Is the end of the nation our future? Text: Klemens Gindl illustration: ruth moosbrugger
We’re the children of a globalised world who only know the term "nationalism" from history class at school – where it always came up in a negative context. If it were up to us, we would be able to jet back and forth between Barcelona and Shanghai with nothing but Bitcoins in our virtual wallets and only present our passport valid for "the whole world" when headed for some extraterrestrial destination. So far it’s not up to us yet, but it will be! So how far developed is that "one world" mentality of ours actually? Are we really progressive enough to leave our national identities and mental barriers behind once and for all?
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a p r o g r e ss i v e G e n e r at i o n ? So who the f… are "we"? The VANGARDIST dares to claim that quite a substantial percentage of its readers can be classified as progressive, cosmopolitan individuals who disapprove of race and gender stereotypes, are against violence and for non-discrimination, and weren’t yet proper grownups when the 20th century ended prematurely in 1989; in other words, boys and girls who last lived in a world without mobile phones, the Internet, Amazon, Facebook, Western domination, and the war on terror when they were teenagers – or even children. Of course, this whole generation thing is a bit tricky nowadays, because the defining age boundaries from one generation to the next have become quite blurred. If you consider though, that right now all the movers and shakers in politics, business, science,
and culture are on average between 50 and 65 years old, that leads us to an interesting conclusion: For the first time in history, many of the people who move into significant positions in our society over the next ten years will have grown up in a globalised world. Or in other words, sooner or later, you, dear readers, will have become part of the establishment and be labelled as "reactionary fools" by younger generations. W h o b r i ngs h o m e the bacon in the Global Village? One thing’s for sure: The "smaller" and more interconnected our planet becomes, the less we can afford to think inside the national box. If the world is actually turning more and more into one global village, then it can’t be right that when moving around inside this so-called village I’m not able to pay for my bread at that bakery "round the corner" with the currency that I've earned in an office nearby; or
that just to get access to, say, “the local football pitch", some people have to apply for three different visas, which they’re only granted if they were born in the "right" district of our metaphorical village; or that someone would have to think twice about visiting friends who live "just a couple blocks away" because on that street people can get thrown into jail for their sexual orientation. I’m sure everyone would agree with this analogy, but on the
other hand there’s no denying the fact that nationalism is a lot more than a simple administrative tool that we can just throw on the scrap heap of history now that some of us feel we’re done with it. It’s a mindset that can manifest itself in many shapes and colours and provide us with the answers to questions that are especially crucial in our globalised times, questions like: Who earns what for whom? Who makes the laws that regulate our actions and
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from where do these people get their legitimisation? The birth of a l l n at i o ns Nationalism was the brainchild of the modern era. After the French Revolution had done away with God and the system He had supposedly singlehandedly signed off on – a system in which you were either assigned to be the king, a member of the aristocracy, a citizen, or a peasant – people had to come up with new ideas to justify the state in its role as executive authority. At the same time, the end of the 18th century saw an enormous developmental leap (also known as the Industrial Revolution) that required the formation of efficiently governed territorial states. For this, the decision-makers desperately
needed to think up an abstract identity ideology so that they could explain to, say, a peasant from Swabia why he should let himself be shot defending the interests of a trading company from northern Germany in a colonial war somewhere in East Asia. Quickly, a great number of philosophers appeared on the scene who formulated the idea that it’s human nature to want to split up into different nations where everyone supposedly shares the same characteristics. In the true spirit of Enlightenment they concluded that these "natural" commonalities (as well as differences) would provide the only legitimate framework for the building of a nation, and that people could only develop their full potential as long as they identified with "their" nation and state above all else. Nationalism had thus been born. F r o m p o l i t i cs to biology The unknown variable in this equation was of course the actual definition of what a "nation" was. Regardless of
what each person understands by this term, it will always remain a man-made chimera. A relatively moderate type of nationalism was exercised by the French and the British, who defined the concept as sharing a language (something that could be learned) and belonging to a certain state structure (that in these cases had already existed before anyway). It was in Germany that nationalism’s full baneful potential later manifested itself, which had to do with the fact that, whereas France and England could simply superimpose the nationalist idea onto their existing structures, "the Germans" didn’t actually have any kind of structure that they could’ve pimped up into a nationstate. Over the course of the 19th century, the inferiority complex Germany carried away as a result of this would freely develop into the insane concept generally described as ethnic or racial nationalism, which basically promoted the idea of a nation as genetically determined by race, and supporting a trumped up narrative of a common prehistory ("the Germanic peoples"
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as such simply didn’t exist) that has to fight for its rightful position in the world. The rest is history (or rather a history lesson – the one where we all learned about National(Social)ism). The spirits t h at w e c a l l e d Now we’ve moved on to the 21st century, we all know that nationalism should be scrapped for being closely tied to racism, extreme chauvinism and stupidity and for creating competition where solidarity is needed. It is also outdated as it stands in the way of finding joint solutions to global tasks and problems like climate change, poverty or the global financial crisis. But even though Europe has been trying to overcome the arbitrarily drawn borders that separate us from one another to this day, we have still not been able to get rid of the old spirits – even though most of us like to claim we have. Especially in times of crisis when solidarity is needed most, we regularly retreat into our old thought patterns. When Ukrainians take to the streets to fight for the chance of one day becoming part of a potentially transnational Europe, we waste so much time
claiming it’s a national matter concerning them and them alone that eventually ultranationalist fringe groups manage to undermine the movement and can then use our ignorant attitude of "let Ukrainians look after Ukrainians while we look after ourselves!" as justification for their actions. And when it came to handling the Greek crisis and reacting to the unlawful actions of a Hungarian government dominated by fascists (who have brought antiZiganism and government-supported homophobia with them into office) our actions were hardly decisive either. F r o m r a c i sm t o c u lt u r a l i sm There are obviously a great number of reasons why we still haven’t managed to overcome the old boundaries in our heads, one particularly perfidious reason being that nationalism (as well as racism) is a very changeable kind of menace. In German-speaking countries where terms like Volk and Nation (which essentially both mean nation) are effectively discredited for good reasons, we pride ourselves in being more morally purged and cosmopolitan than the rest of the world
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– and thus able to hand out advice on national chauvinism to others – all the while ignoring the fact that the most dangerous, albeit most idiotic, feature of nationalism continues to exist everywhere in almost unaltered form: the inclination to arbitrarily organise people into groups with specific characteristics that these people were allegedly born with and can consequently not abandon. Today, instead of race, the defining trait is culture, but the principle remains the same. You’re Turkish? So it’s the Turkish culture that has shaped you, and for the rest of your life that’s how everyone will see you, which is why you’ll never really fit in here. Every culture has its own compartment. W e h av e n o t o v e r c o m e This type of culturalism is a new form of racism and consequentially caters to our prevalent nationalism, which, although it may have changed, does still exist. Because even if we (optimistically) look at Europe as a union, for instance, its aim is still to be another great Western "nation" wanting to remain separate from the rest of the world, just as the nation-states of the 19th and 20th centuries wanted to re-
main separate from each other. The mindset behind this is still based on culturalism and argues along the lines of: "European culture is like this, which is why it doesn’t really fit together with that other culture, which is why we should distance ourselves from things that are too foreign." And that’s exactly the point that every progressive person should sweep before their own door. Because we may well have internalised the fact that we are not a nation that can derive the right to world domination from its history, and that everyone who claims to have such a historical "mandate" must be off their rocker, but most of us have apparently, since our infancy, still imbibed the no less chauvinistic concept of culturalism. A g l o b a l e N at i o n ? If we want to hold our own in this imagined global village of ours, we have no choice but to overcome boundaries and borders – once and for all! Because even if we were to ignore the moral factors that could be cited in favour of this, splitting the world into national administration units would still be an outdated concept for the simple fact that our globalised reality has
long stopped observing these borders. If enterprises like Amazon are able to sell their products all over the globe while only having to pay taxes in obscure island states with dodgy reputations, then something’s going seriously wrong. And as long as states still try to gain a competitive advantage by ignoring climate targets that they all signed off on to reduce global CO2 emissions, a hundred years from now we’ll be f… .ed (albeit at least jointly so). One of the big challenges of this century will be to transfer onto the concept of a global society the one positive idea promoted by nationalism: that of abstract solidarity and identification with a group of people 99.99 % of whom we’ll never actually get to know personally. To reach this goal, we have to cleanse the con-
cept of "nation" from all its cultural and racist attributes and recognise that there’s only one sustainable definition for it: a large body of human beings. All people who pride themselves in being progressive should be able to grasp this. Being children of the globalisation has surely provided all of us with the necessary intellectual requirements to do so.
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In love we trust making of
Photography: Crist贸bal Hornito editing: Crist贸bal Hornito Interpreter / Track: Rataxes / 'Hooked'
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VANGART
BEfore they p a s s
Kazakhs, Mongolia
a w a y , ‌
Jimmy Nelson's photography of Disappearing cultures TEXT: Dennis Stephan / fotos: © Before They Pass Away by Jimmy Nelson, published by teNeues, www.teneues.com. Photo © Jimmy Nelson Pictures BV, www.beforethey.com
…is how photographer Jimmy Nelson quite solemnly titled his most recent project: a splendid illustrated book about tribal cultures from all around the globe. If that immediately makes you think “oh no, not another boring coffee-table book that’ll just end up as decoration in the waiting area of some hairdresser’s with customers’ greasy fingerprints all over it,” then you should think again. From the Mursi people in Ethiopia to the Huaorani in Ecuador and the Nenets in North Siberia, Nelson has trained his camera lens on all of them and created thoughtprovoking images that are stunning but also evoke a sense of loss.
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Nothing persists
In a way, human beings are like sandstone: both exist in an endless variety of shades and colours and they’re both defenceless against the ravages of time that eventually turn every one of us into dust and faint memories. The lives of our ancestors were constantly threatened by nature’s travesties in the form of storms, floods and droughts, so in the hope of survival our predecessors would sacrifice livestock, each other, and even themselves, to our Mother Earth, sublimated into a plethora of gods. For a long time, people were quite successful at this, but by now our increas-
ingly globalised “civilisation” has crowded out all but a few remaining tribal cultures. It’s precisely the fragile state of transience that these cultures find themselves in that Jimmy Nelson has set out to explore. At the age of twenty, the Kent-born photographer picked up a camera for the first time. Having spent ten years at a Jesuit boarding school, he then set off on his own to traverse the length of Tibet on foot, armed with his camera. The journey lasted a year and, apart from blisters and aching feet, also resulted in a unique visual diary that was published to wide international acclaim. In 2009, Nelson first came up with the idea to visit thirty-one remote tribes to document their cultures while they were still in existence. With the perseverance of a trained collector, he went out to look for the quintessence of human co-habitation to produce photographic evidence that could live on long after these cultures and their human representatives will have ceased to exist.
Se c l u ded b u t n o t i s o l a t ed
Before They Pass Away is a compilation of the photographs Nelson collected on his journey and
T i b e ta n s
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Nenets, Russia
an illustration of the souls of the last remaining tribal peoples of our planet. Obviously, the book’s title is not without reason, because at the same time that global free trade, technological advances and population growth stomp all over our planet like inconsiderate children, the heirs of these (almost) forgotten cultures, along with their centuries-old customs and traditions, are being crowded out of their worlds by all that inexorably spreading "civilisation". Tepees are having to make room for highrises, rainforests are being replaced by shopping compounds and, more and more, natural nudity is concealed beneath this season’s fashion trends that usually excite for just a brief moment before ending up on the shelves along with all the other old hats and we fix our eyes on the next novelty. Modern man suffers from John Smith Syndrome, meaning we feel the constant need to open up new territory and then quickly exploit everything in it, as according to our notion of maximum efficiency. We believe we’re invincible just because we can rely on technology for entertainment and social interaction and don’t have to engage in tedious conversation and because we don’t have to run through the prairie to find food but can just call Joey’s Pizza instead. For us, nothing would be worse than to be forced out of our “natural” habitat by some invisible force, but what we
Kazakhs, Mongolia
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don’t see is that the fact that these cultures are secluded doesn’t mean they’re isolated from the environment they live in. On the contrary: The people Nelson met on his three-year journey through the wilderness have a very intrinsic connection with the things that surround them. On high-gloss photographic paper the viewer can witness the relationships between tribe members as well as how these individuals interact and communicate with every tree and bit of nature around them as if some silent language connects everything and everyone. “In our world, many things are out of balance,” Nelson explained in an interview with the news magazine Der Spiegel.
“And while people in the developed world only focus on the future, tribal people live in the present.”
Before we pass away
It was his respect for these cultures that enabled Nelson to take his pictures. He treated them with decency, always wearing a friendly smile on his face, uncomplainingly drinking the concoctions brewed from secret ingredients offered to him by the tribal elders, and even joining in on the occasional calumet smoking ritual. And his friendliness certainly paid off; the epic portrait shots he took of indigenous groups from all over the world with his 1950s analogue field camera – images of men and women, riding on animal back or walking barefoot, carrying their traditional weapons or hard at work, painted with body paint or covered in wild furs – show each of these cultures in their own very unique and distinctive way, while at the same time illustrating that at our core, all human beings are remarkably similar. What the portraits have in common is that they were taken with the intention to preserve something. They paint memories of different ways of life and skills that are far removed from our everyday horizon of experience. They take us on a trip into a world full of graceful "unsophistication" so captivating in its naturalness that every Photoshopedited Instagram snapshot seems like a mere con-
Maori, New Zealand
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glomeration of insignificant pixels in comparison. Nelson’s pictures make us see to what degree we have already domesticated our planet; the images are thought-provoking in that they show us civilisations that are seemingly so different from ours but at the same time appear to be the quickly fading master template that today’s fast-paced civilisations have evolved from. There seems to be a hidden message in these pictures insinuating that what all of us leave behind in the end will be nothing but a couple of footsteps in the sand soon to be blown away by the wind. If you’d like to experience Jimmy Nelson’s pictures not just in a book but up close and in person, then head to Berlin where Before They Pass Away is currently on show at the CAMERA WORK gallery. Jimmy Nelson: Before They Pass Away teNeues Publishing Group (2013). ISBN: 978-3832797591 www.beforethey.com
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on tour
Text: Andrés Damm
There’s probably not a lot of things that could get party princess Paris Hilton to take to the streets with fishermen and farmers to jointly protest against something. But the party island Ibiza made it happen! And even though the agenda was actually a pretty serious one – in February, the American "it girl" joined Ibizan demonstrators in their protest against an oil drilling platform off the coast of Ibiza – Paris Hilton’s action was also emblematic of what makes this Balearic island so special: With its many facets that include everything from glamour to unspoilt nature and traditions, Ibiza attracts a great diversity of people from all walks of life.
© Pacha Ibiza
POWERED BY
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Everyone loves house When it comes to nightlife, the standard in Ibiza is absolutely world-class, both in terms of the sound and the appeal of its DJs. Everybody who’s anybody in the house scene DJs here during the summer months, particularly during the so-called opening week (this year, starting on May 21st) when clubs try to outdo each other by dishing up their very finest. Ideally, the clubs will coordinate their openings so that the party-crazy crowds can attend a different excessive re-opening party for every night of the week.
In theory, Pacha, Space, and Amnesia are still the biggest clubs on the island, although it needs to be said that nowadays, Pacha’s fame is owed largely to its legendary reputation. But even if younger and flashier locations have stolen some of Pacha's limelight, when in Ibiza you should definitely go there at least once. While Amnesia is increasingly turning into a hillbilly hangout, since 2011 the Ushuaia Beach Hotel has, with its Departures party series, established itself as the new must-do for the island’s coolest party people. From about four in the afternoon, pounding bass lines will gradually start to take over the entire four-star hotel compound. The most
© Cebete / Nemesis Design © Cebete
and never having dinner before 10 p.m. – that’s La Dolce Vita Ibiza-style.
Š Pacha Ibiza
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popular rooms have balconies facing the dance floor and are used by the lucky guests who get to stay in them as their own private VIP areas. When partying in Ibiza the same rule applies as for the rest of your time here: Try not to worry too much about money. The fact that you can party hearty in a perfect island setting and enjoy DJs, food, and drink that are worthy of a world city does of course come at a certain price. Where the jet-set goes when they wanna have a good time To be able to enjoy every minute of your stay here, you should probably prepare your trip in advance. Anyone who’s ever experienced the devastating revelation of realising on Saturday that you missed David Guetta’s "Fuck Me I’m Famous" party on Thursday will agree that you should always study the lineup before going to Ibiza. Don’t plan too far in advance though, because as in many other places, the use-by dates of the reputed hot-spots are quite limited here. The party caravan is always moving on to new locations, and even at really happening places the night can suddenly feel quite lukewarm – that's
not just the temperature, but also the atmosphere – if you’re there for the wrong event. A good site for reliable and essential information, as well as for buying event tickets, can be found at ibiza-spotlight.com. And by the way, not only are online tickets generally cheaper, they also allow access to a club via a separate queue, which means no more waiting for hours to get into some talk-of-the-town gig. In addition, almost all clubs offer nearly a 100 percent refund if you cancel your booking up to 24 hours before the event. Spontaneous last-minute decisionmakers might want to check out the different clubs around the centre of town after 10 p.m., as most bars here are either still willing to add people to their guest lists or to send out promoters who generously throw around free-entry bracelets for B-grade parties. For everyone who wants to check out a number of parties in one night, this is definitely not a bad option. In the lap of luxury A serious conglomeration of the rich and beautiful can be found in Santa Eulalia del Rio. Because of its
© Nikki Beacj
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Nikki Beach
marina, Hollywood stars and oligarchs can arrive here in the luxurious style they are accustomed to and, at least in the summer, can rely on the presence of an admiring audience gawking at them bathing in champagne (as we all know, Ibiza’s jet-set has never been shy to confirm all the typical clichés). This part of the island is also where the latest luxury establishment for the diversion-hungry high society has recently opened, namely the tenth location of the glamorous Nikki Beach Club of Saint Tropez. Obviously, not even in Ibiza are they able to completely re-invent the concept of the glamour party, and therefore, just as in numerous other beach clubs
around the world, the Nikki also seats its guests on white lounge furniture underneath large umbrellas branded with champagne labels and decks its staff out in shorts and polo shirts. But if you’re looking for a place to see and be seen, then you shouldn’t miss it. Mum's cooking gets some serious competition Two other things apart from its beaches and parties that make Ibiza worth a trip are its stunning natural landscape and its excellent restaurants. You could easily follow different restaurant recommendations for lunch and dinner for an entire week and would still not manage to try all the good ones.
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dry (excuse the pun), you might want to start off the holiday with a little trip to an inland wine store. Although very little wine is cultivated on the island itself, you can get lots of good Tempranillos and Syrahs produced on the mainland or on neighbouring islands. Even if you have a private finca, make sure you don’t miss out on all the island’s great restaurants. At La Caleta, we recommend the house specialties, black fish risotto with an intense saffron overtone as a main followed by the island’s typical dessert, flao, a type of cheesecake lightly seasoned with mint, which makes it a lot more refreshing than the American version.
The last hippies Even though Ibiza offers the possibility of non-stop partying, you should definitely take some time off all the revelry and get up early enough to visit some places during the day. Even though the hippie enclave Sant Carles has long stopped being an insider tip, it has largely managed to maintain its authentic charm. As well as the hippie markets that attract lots of people on Monday nights and Saturday during the day, the oldest bar in the village, Bar Anita, also merits a visit. And while you sit there and enjoy some delicious tapas and the typical Ibizan herb liqueur, Hierbas ibicencas, you
© Pacha Ibiza
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can watch the town’s inhabitants collect their letters and packages as the bar also houses people’s post boxes. When you’re sitting in the evening sun, watching aging hippies or listening to the sound of the church bells, the concepts of pounding electro beats and never-ending nights suddenly seem very far away. And that’s when you realise that when you came to this island you didn’t just enter a special micro-cosmos, but a conglomeration of different cosmoses.
So instead of the widely used label "Party Island", a much more fitting one for Ibiza would be Pleasure Island. No matter what you choose to call it though, it’s doubtlessly the ideal destination for everyone who knows what they need to recharge their batteries, can handle all the choice and appreciates a place that offers everything from secluded beaches to beautiful remote fincas, top-notch cuisine and world-class parties.
Restaurants La Oliva – Ibiza Old Town 6:30 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. Calle Santa Cruz, 2 +34 971 30 57 52 www.laolivaibiza.com KM5 (out towards St. Antonio) CTRA. SANT JOSEP KM 5,6. +34 971 396 349 www.km5-lounge.com Bam Buddha Grove Carretera de San Juan, km8.5 07840 Santa Eulalia del Río +34 971 19 75 10 www.bambuddha.com El Gallo Viejo Closed on Monday and Wednesday Thursday–Friday 7:00 p.m. to 12 a.m. Saturday–Sunday 1:00 p.m. to 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 12 a.m. Port des Torrent, C/ Valencia, 2 +34 971 34 19 69 www.restauranteviejogallo.com/en/
© Chriringuito
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love is a
bloom
growing anywhere T he ts i s L if e B e t i all’s 22nd production inv s” gue t s t s in to a “garden of earthly deligh
Text: mario kollinger photos: "Adam & Eve", credits on the next pages
Fanciful garden settings and fantastic worlds of insects and flowers are what the Life Ball on May 31 has in store for its guests this year. The theme will revolve around the topic of lust, humanity’s most powerful driving force. The organisers want to use this emotion in its most life-affirming form to continue their unremitting fight against AIDS and HIV and reach the UN’s target to have completely stopped and reversed the spread of the virus by 2015.
The Life Ball should especially raise awareness in those parts of the world where AIDS is still a taboo topic. At the same time, this year’s slogan “love is a bloom growing anywhere” calls attention to the ongoing marginalisation of people existing on the fringes of society. And like every year, attention given to the charity event will certainly not be lacking when forest elves, dragonflies, and the occasional Narcissus march into the gardens of Vienna’s City Hall to celebrate their lust for life.
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No doubt it will also be the Life Ball guests with their extravagant styles who add to the visual opulence that characterises the event, and just like every year, for some of them the Style Bible will serve as a source of inspiration for all their outlandish costumes and creative efforts. For the first time this year, a Life Ball pop-up store will open at the end of this month to provide all guests with an incredible range of accessories and decorative elements before the ball and help them to fulfil even their wildest costume fantasies. In coope-
Style B
ration with design and decoration specialists ZARUBA, the shop offers all the things – from artificial flowers to animal costumes to sophisticated ornaments – that will make the heart of every Life Ball fan leap with joy. And there’s another reason a trip to the shop will definitely pay off: 10 percent of its profits will go to HIV/AIDS projects run by the Life Ball. More information on the Style Bible, the ideas behind the designs, the dress code and tickets can be found at www.stylebible.org
4 1 0 Bible 2 FactBox Life Ball Pop-Up Store Bene Flagship Store Neutorgasse 4-8 1010 Vienna Opening hours: March 27 – April 26 2014 Thursday and Friday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. www.lifeball.org www.decozaruba.com www.bene.com
Adam & Eve
Idea, concept and styling: Gery Keszler; Photographer: Inge Prader / prader. at; Studio: Interspot Film GmbH; Decoration and props: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann Adam & Eve: Models: Carmen Jahrbacher / La Muse, Dominik Wirlend / Tempo Models; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Hair: Christine Wegscheider Young Man with Golden Apple: Model: Seref Ünal / Mother Agency; MakeUp: Andreas Bernhardt / BASICS–Berlin; Costume: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements from Zaruba Group of Wood Gnomes: Models: Florian Eidherr, Tabea Marie Kerschbaumer / Tempo Models, Laura Roche / Mother Agency, Clivia Treidl / Mother Agency, Nadine Marienne Meudtner / Stella Models & Talent Management, Laura Winter / Body & Soul, Anna-Maria Zugg / Mother Agency; Make-up: Tamara Mascara / Haus Mascara Make-up assistants: Angela Reinold, Claudi K.; Hair: Ana Castro / Mother Agency; Hair assistants: Mirella Aminah / headQuarters, Sara Belin / headQuarters; Costumes: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements from Swarovski and Zaruba Living Box Trees: Models: Ulrike Huber, Herbert Huber, Thomas Grosmann, Florian Schöller; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Body painting team: Julia Eder, Monika Huber, Jennifer Kogler, Steffanie Saliterer
The Unicorn & the Maidens
Idea, concept and styling: Gery Keszler; Photographer: Inge Prader / prader. at; Studio: Interspot Film GmbH; Costumes: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements by Swarovski and Zaruba; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Decoration and props: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann Unicorn: Artist: Mischa Sosnovski; Make-up: Emir Tuncman / PB Production Office; Unicorn’s horn: Birgit Mörtl Maidens: Models: Sophie Frank / Body & Soul, Julia Geiger / Stella Models & Talent Management, Vera Grillmaier / Next Company, Michelle Müller / Body & Soul, Valeria Müller – Kiraly, Caroline Piller / Body & Soul, Melanie Olczykowski, Anna Strümpel / Tempo Models, Sandra Zelechowski; Make-up: Emir Tuncman / PB production office; Make-up assistants: Sabine Reiter, Claudi K.; Hair: Ana Castro / Mother Agency; Assistant: Julia Eder
The Gardeners Idea, concept and styling: Gery Keszler; Photographer: Inge Prader / prader. at; Studio: Interspot Film GmbH; Decoration and props: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann The Gardeners: Model: Denis Zecic / Stella Models & Talent Management; Makeup and Hair: Andreas Bernhardt / BASICS – Berlin; Costumes: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements from Swarovski and Zaruba Living Box Trees: Models: Ulrike Huber, Herbert Huber, Thomas Grosmann, Florian Schöller; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Body painting team: Julia Eder, Monika Huber, Jennifer Kogler, Steffanie Saliterer
The Spring Society
Idea, concept and styling: Gery Keszler, Raja SchwahnReichmann; Photographer: Inge Prader / prader.at; Studio: Interspot Film GmbH; Decoration and props: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann The Spring Society (female protagonist – petrol blue dress): Model: Andrea Ojdanic / Wiener Models; Make-up: Peter H. Schindler / perfectprops; Hair and wig: Ana Castro / Mother Agency; Costume: costume collection ART for ART; Costume painting: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann The Art Society (group): Models: Darija Gavric / Wiener Models, Susanne Lackner / Next Company, Christina Sommer / Mother Agency, Baoyi Zhong / Stella Models & Talent Management; Make-up: Peter H. Schindler / perfectprops; Hair and wigs: Ana Castro / Mother Agency; Costumes: costume collection ART for ART; Costume painting: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann Living Box Trees: Models: Ulrike Huber, Herbert Huber, Thomas Grosman, Lucienne Emily Lücke; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Body painting team: Julia Eder, Jennifer Kogler, Steffanie Saliterer, Monika Huber smann, Florian Schöller; Body painting: Birgit Mörtl; Body painting team: Julia Eder, Monika Huber, Jennifer Kogler, Steffanie Saliterer
Narcissus Idea concept and styling: Gery Keszler; Photographer: Inge Prader / prader. at; studio: Interspot Film GmbH; Decoration and props: Raja Schwahn-Reichmann Narcissus: Model: Dimitrij Vysokolyan / Body & Soul; Make-up / Hair: Peter H. Schindler / perfectprops; Wig: Seefestspiele Mรถrbisch; Costume: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements from Zaruba Mountain Nymph Echo: Model: Julia Geiger / Stella Models & Talent Management; Make-up / Hair: Peter H. Schindler / perfectprops; Wig: Seefestspiele Mรถrbisch; Costume: costume collection ART for ART with decoration elements from Zaruba Angel: Model: Michael Gstoettner / Next Company; Make-up / Hair: Peter H. Schindler / perfectprops; Wig: Seefestspiele Mรถrbisch; Costume: costume collection ART for ART Youngling: Model: Clemens Hartleb / Tempo Models; Body painting: Birgit Mรถrtl
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FACADE
Editor‘S Choice:
style
TI P
Shirt by Franklin & Marshall
Umbrella by senz°
Sunglasses by Tom Ford
Bumbag by Eastpak
Shirt from Fred Perry by Raf Simons
Shirt from Fred Perry by Raf Simons
Travel Book Vietnam from Louis Vuitton
iPad Case by Vivienne Westwood Anglomania
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Cardcase by Y-3
Scarf by Jeremy Scott
Shirt by Etro
Jacket by Junya Watanabe
Backpack by Vivienne Westwood Anglomania
Sneakers from Just Cavalli at Salamander
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Look by Diesel
Look by H&M
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The interwoven worlds
Text: Evelyn hĂśllrigl, Mirza Specakovic photOS: collektion Styler, portrait: Arnold Priddie
He believes in a world where everyone feels they’re part of a greater concept: George Styler is a designer who thinks outside the box.
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E thn o Futurismus
Lots of colour to brighten up our dull, everyday lives, flashy patterns, decorative elements, interesting details and sometimes even glitter: For George Styler there are no limits – or rather, he likes to step right over them. He’ll bring together completely different fabrics to create a symbiosis between the unusual and the new. Born in Serbia, Styler spent his childhood living in various Balkan states. His great passion is for knitwear, which he’s able to employ in a way that never looks dull or monotonous. There’s probably no official label for his particular style; maybe ethnofuturism is the best way to describe what he does because in his creations Styler combines African print, studs and avant-garde elements.
Styler’s new collection is called NetWork, which for him expresses two things: By combining certain elements and fabrics, he wants to show that the cultures and customs of different countries are all in some way connected to each other; at the same time, he’s criticizing the increasing interconnectedness of our world that is fostered by social media and globalisation. These are controversial topics that show Styler as someone who thinks about the world around him. His designs are well-thought-out collages where every last stitch is deliberate and nothing is left to chance. Styler’s new home of London is a melting pot of cultures, influences and thoughts and as such, is a great source of inspiration to him, because one thing that, in the least, leaves a slight mark on all his pieces is the unmistakable and die-hard feel of wild British punk.
© Peter Stigter
NetWorked Collection
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We met Styler for an interview. VANGARDIST: So, my dear, please tell us what colours most remind you of your childhood. Styler: I suppose that would be green and blue. Green because I spent my childhood near the River Drina in Bosnia-Herzegovina which is famous for its intense emerald green colour. And blue because of the ocean; as a child I spent some time living on the Adriatic coast of Montenegro, and when I close my eyes I can go back there in my head and remember what the ocean looked like to me back then. V: And what materials do you remember? Styler: That’s an easy one: definitely wool. It’s my trademark fabric and I
would describe myself first and foremost as a knitwear designer. V: Are you proud of your origins? Styler: As a child I lived in different countries, ones which were generally very multi-cultural, and I’m very proud of that, because it enabled me to learn a lot about other cultures from the start. V: Are there any important things from your cultural background that you bring into your collections? Styler: Yes, they’re mainly elements from Balkan culture, like farmers’ shoes, farmers’ coats or trousers, ducats or angels, for example. It often happens that I integrate things into my collections that I would define as characteristic of my own culture while people from
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© links: Peter Stigter / rechts: Pedja Ivkovic
other countries recognise them as part of theirs. That recently happened to me with a fashion journalist from Brazil. V: What cultural symbols interest you for your creations? Styler: My collections are like a form of social study and I think I’m able to equally represent different cultural symbols in my work. In addition, I try to describe certain events that happen in our society and sometimes also criticise them. V: What occupies your thoughts the most? Styler: By nature, I’m quite an analytical person. My brain works non-stop, but to be honest, most of the time I spend thinking about food. But I’m also often grateful for everything I have. Gratefulness is an important factor in your future success.
V: What annoys you most? Styler: I don’t like cigarettes. It’s not so much the smoke that bothers me, than all the rituals that surround smoking. It bothers me when people smoke, and I avoid contact with smokers. V: What’s the funniest thing that’s happened to you recently? Styler: Last summer I spent a whole day happily and blithely walking around Barcelona dressed in nothing but my swimming trunks. What I didn’t know was that you could be fined for this kind of "fashion style" in Barcelona! V: If anyone ever made a film about your life, what would it be about? Styler: It would be a very positive film about fun and luxury without any tragic scenes or violence. I’d like it to be a fairy tale or a cartoon; we already see enough reality in our everyday lives.
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V: Do you have any unfulfilled childhood dreams? Styler: Until two years ago, I worked for other fashion labels, so I started my life as an independent designer quite late. Back then it was my curiosity that led me to decide to design my own collection, hoping that one day I would see one of my own creations in a fashion magazine. I’ve accomplished that and a whole lot more; my designs are now shown in the world’s most famous magazines. So I guess you could say that the majority of my childhood dreams have come true. But I’m already starting to get used to my success and so I’m setting myself goals that are more and more ambitious.
V: How often do you look at yourself in the mirror? Styler: I have a little tick. I wash my hands at least once an hour, so I stand in front of the bathroom mirror quite frequently. V: What’s the most important thing that one culture can give to another? Styler: Respect. V: Thank you for the interview. VANGARDIST wishes you even more success in the future.
If you’d like to purchase one of George’s Styler’s pieces, visit: georgestyler.com.
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BALANCE
Beauty In a globalized world like ours it's hard to find grooming products that still use the natural and organic ingredients they used to be formulated with. Apparently, we forgot about the botanical roots beauty products had years ago. Thankfully, different brands from all over the world are taking those classic recipes to a new level, rescuing traditions and creating grooming products that are part of a healthy lifestyle.
text: Juán danilo zamora
Himalaya Purifying Neem Face Wash One of the most traditional beauty brands from India brings this amazing product that has become a solution to defeat pimples and imperfections. This soap-free formula uses Neem's antibacterial properties to kill the bacteria that causes pimples and eradicate the signs of blemishes, leaving your skin soft and clear.
ˆ GwdihUW Gardener’s Balm This product is as unique as the brand itself. Based in Wales, Gwdihwˆ (pronounced goody-hoo, which is the word for owl in Welsh) uses millenary formulas to create solutions to everyday beauty problems. This balm is useful for those who have to work hard with their hands, or even if you want to soften them after a hard gym session. Marigold flowers, rosemary essence, beeswax, coconut oil and olive oil are the ingredients of their balm formula.
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Melvita Men’s Anti-Aging Fluid This French brand is committed to using natural ingredients, and this product is not an exception. A powerful mix of aloe vera and everlasting flower, together with Siberian pine nut and olive oils, fights against wrinkles and dryness, protects collagen and leaves a smooth sensation on the skin. Use it twice a day and you will feel its invigorating power.
Biotique Bio Mountain Ebony Fresh Growth Stimulating Serum This amazing brand takes recipes from the Ayurvedic traditions from 5,000 years ago and mixes them with the latest technology to create world-class products. Say goodbye to hair loss with this powerful formula that uses ebony, euphorbia tree, and long pepper to stimulate hair growth. Nothing like a natural treatment to attack a natural condition.
Manav Herbal Sandal Face Pack Sandalon If you want to experience the ultimate exotic facial cleansing, this is your product. It's a natural way to improve your complexion while giving it a botanical boost. Mix the powder with water or milk (you can use rose oil too) and apply it directly to your skin. If you think this product is hard to find, think again. It is available online due to the brand’s great reputation.
Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes The American brand Ursa Major is creating an interesting proposal for living in a healthy way by offering totally natural grooming products. These face wipes, for example, not only offer the same as others in the same category, but they promote the use of bamboo fibre and other natural ingredients like green tea, sugar cane, lavender and geranium. Take them wherever you go, and get a refreshing feeling without taking a shower.
on tour
Places
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o s i n o i t a l
The
Posada de Mike Rapu by José Cruz Ovalle & Associates Easter Island, Chile, Photos © explora Text: Mario Kollinger
www.explora.com
Posada de Mike Rapu by JosĂŠ Cruz Ovalle & Associates: The Posada de Mike Rapu can be found right in the middle of the Pacific Ocean on Easter Island, one of the most secluded spots on our planet. When constructing this hotel that
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meets the strictest possible sustainability standards, its planners had to take special care with regards to the island’s specific ecosystem and the astonishing world-famous ruins that lend the whole place its air of mystery. Guests staying
© Wolfgang Günzel
in one of the 26 rooms of this architectural masterpiece will enjoy an utterly unobstructed view of the Pacific and the feeling that they’ve just unplugged from the rest of the world.
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Fogo Island Inn by Saunders Architecture Fogo Island, Canada Photos © Bent René Synnevåg, Alex Fradkin (next page)
www.saunders.no / www.fogoislandinn.ca / www. shorefast.org
Things probably can’t get much more secluded than a holiday on the Canadian
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island of Fogo. Far away from the rest of civilisation, you can kick back and relax at the sauna or with a soothing massage, and to top it off, all these amenities come hand-in-hand with breathtaking views of the North-Atlantic Ocean. The
building is owned by the Shorefast Foundation, a Canadian charity organisation whose aim – among other things – is to further develop the geotourism industry on Fogo Island.
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ION Hotel by Minarc Selfoss, Iceland Photos Š Minarc
www.minarc.com / www.ioniceland.is
The ION Luxury Adventure Hotel is situated only 40 kilometres outside the centre of Reykjavik, amidst unfathoma-
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bly beautiful scenery that looks like it’s not of this world. Surrounded by hot springs and majestic mountainous lava fields, guests can switch off and leave the real world behind for a while inside Californian architecture studio Minarc’s
latest project. The large picture windows that dominate the design concept invite people to gaze out onto a landscape such as this and get lost in the beauty of the Northern Lights.
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LEAPrus 3912 by LEAPfactory Elbrus, Caucasus, Russia Photos Š LEAPfactory
www.leapfactory.it
If you feel all of the above options are still not secluded enough, we recommend you try out the LEAPrus 3912 Mountain Hotel. All components of the four separate buildings were built by specialists at the LEAPfactory in Italy and then flown to
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the Caucasus and up 4,000 metres to the top of Mount Elbrus via helicopter. Technicians then assembled the separate parts and the hotel on the slopes of Europe’s tallest mountain was ready. Examples of the efficient use of energy that was a top
priority in the construction of the hotel, and for which planners were determined not to compromise the comfort of its guests, are the hotel’s own purification plant and a system that provides the water needed for sanitary facilities out of snow.
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VANGART
listen to this! ations d n e m m o c e R rs e n e t s li d o o for g
Miss Platnum THE SWEETEST HANGOVER (Romania) Stromae RACINE CARREE (Belgium)
With her gypsy sounds and unique looks, Romanian singer Ms. Platnum is a breath of fresh air. We first fell in love with her voice at the Frankie Morello 2014 show in Milan, where After his worldwide hit "Alors On her hit "Give Me the Food" was the Danse" (we bet you danced to it few perfect soundtrack for the runway. years ago), this Belgian singer is back with an album full of sounds from Af- Her latest album, The Sweetest Hangrica. "Papaoutai" is the first single over, is a mix of traditional Romanian from this album, an autobiographical sounds with original lyrics about love, heavy drinking and being broke. Lissong that tells of the singer’s struggle to find his father. Racine CarrÊe is an ten to "Drink Sister, Drink," "Why Did You Do It," and her new version of electronic album with a deep bass that "Babooshka." is perfect for a Saturday night party.
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go to amazon
Text: Juán D. Zamora
Broods BROODS (New Zealand)
Systema Solar SYSTEMA SOLAR (Colombia)
Caleb and Georgia Nott are two siblings raised in a musical environment. As a result of their past, they now form one of the most promising duos of the present. Their album Broods came out in February 2014, and it’s already a classic. With Georgia’s sweet voice and Caleb’s talented skills in playing different instruments, we bet we will hear a lot about this duo. Their first single, "Bridges", is a beautiful song with a contemporary sound.
Colombian band Systema Solar is rescuing the traditional sounds of folklore, bringing rhythms from the past to a new generation. Champeta is a music genre originating in Africa that was first brought to South America during slavery, after which it became an important part of Colombian culture. Systema Solar takes the beat and the instruments from champeta to create a unique sound like no other. Enjoy "Bienvenidos", "Mi Kolombia", and "Quien Es el Patron?"
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go to amazon
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CELEBRATION
UP Coming ! ? . . . n i n o What's
// WIEN FESTWOCHEN SCHAMLOSER KULTUR / April 23 – May 10 Stadtsaal Mariahilfer Straße 81 1060 Vienna This year’s Festival of Shameless Culture will once again have us crying with laughter. The Viennese festival of queer comedy that will be taking place for the third year in a row is delighted to have performer Pam Ann on board again. In addition to the Australian queer comedy icon Ian Harvie, one of the few trans men in the world of cabaret, many others will be stimulating our risible muscles. Weep alone if you must, but for a good laugh come to Vienna. www.kulturbanane.at
// CHICAGO BRITISH INVASION / April 12 Preston Bradley Center 941 W. Lawrence Street Chicago, IL Although it was quite a struggle before the United States of America finally gained its independence from the British Empire in the 18th century, now in the 21st century some Americans are looking forward to a slightly different kind of invasion by Her Majesty’s subjects. Homage will be paid to famous representatives from the faraway kingdom, figures such as John Lennon, Boy George, and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Tea will be served, colour spelled with "u" for a day, and everyone will put on their best British accents. You’re going to be amused. www.lakesidepride.com
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// ZÜRICH WONDERWORLD OLYMPIA / April 19 X-TRA Limmatstrasse 118 Zurich
// LOS ANGELES SIMPLY DIVINE / April 5 The Center's Village at Ed Gould Plaza 1125 N. McCadden Place Los Angeles, CA
For two weeks the Olympic Games cast their magic spell over Russia, although no one actually believed the image we were being sold of Putin as a great friend of the people. If we leave politics aside though, the biggest sports event in the world makes for a great party theme, and so the XTRA in Zurich has decided to celebrate vitality and athleticism. Before the backdrop of fake Grecian architecture from antiquity, the club will be impressing guests with quite a few superlatives. Not surprisingly, the dress code is sportswear in all its shapes and colours. Go Switzerland! www.x-tra.ch
For gourmets – both practicing and aspiring – we recommend the tasting event Simply diVine taking place right in the heart of the city of angels, just left off Santa Monica Boulevard. Some of LA’s most popular restaurants will delight your palate with exquisite food and even more exquisite wines, as well as a range of stronger spirits. Both gourmand and gourmet will love it here – after all, what’s not to love about delicious food? And if afterwards you feel like walking off all those noshes, you can do so in style at the nearby Walk of Fame, only a few minutes away. www.simplydivinela2014.org
// BERLIN SISSY / April 18 Loftus Hall Maybachufer 48 12045 Berlin Strong women and RnB was a combination that dominated the charts in the nineties and early noughties. Back in those years, Janet Jackson was at the height of her fame, TLC were delivering one summer hit after the other, Missy Elliott gave the world a completely new type of strong woman, and everybody’s darling, Beyoncé, had only just hit the road to fame with Destiny’s Child. With SISSY, in Berlin's Loftus Hall, the event's organisers now want to pay homage to all these and other strong women – and especially their music, of course. A must-go for everyone who’s tired of the omnipresence of electro-pop. www.loftushall.de
// AMSTERDAM HOMOMONUMENT / April 25 and 26 Homomonument Westermarkt Amsterdam By the laws of nature, King’s Day is followed by King’s Night, and once again all of Holland is going to get together to celebrate either one or both of these events. While the daytime celebrations are mainly dedicated to the King, at night the Oranjes celebrate themselves. Holland’s gay population will be partying at the Homomonument in Amsterdam, built in honour of all those who have been – and unfortunately still are – suppressed or killed because of their sexual orientation. As is only fitting for a national celebration, the events are free, the drinks affordable, and the revellers happy. www.homomonument.nl