#37 / 09 / 2013
t h e Fa s h i o n i s s u e
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Impressum: Publisher and Management: VANGARDIST Ltd. & CO. KG Carlos Gómez & Julian Wiehl
Nº37 The articles are the reponsibilty of the author and and do not necessarily represent the views of the VANGARDIST.
Editor-In-Chief: Carlos Gómez & Julian Wiehl Production Manager: Carlos Gómez Copy Editor: Klemens Gindl Fashion Editor: Mirza Sprecakovic Music Editor: Juán Danilo Zamora Editorial Staff: Ana Kaan, Theresa Sophie Breitsching, Klemens Gindl, Dennis Stephan, Juán Danilo Zamora, Mario Kollinger, Mirza Sprecakovic Photo Editor: Carlos Gómez, Juán Danilo Zamora Online Assistance: María José Villamil Rodríguez Photography: Julie Brass, Andreas Waldschütz Correctors: Jay Bannmuller, Andrew Ütt Translation: Lisa Voigt Production and Styling: Mirza Sprecakovic Fashion-Assistance: Noi Oki, Kevin Morocutti Graphics and Layout: Magdalena Weyrer Video Editing / Video Operator: Cristóbal Hornito Making of: Tamara Pichler, Cristóbal Hornito Sincere thanks to all who, through their tireless efforts, have helped to produce this edition of the VANGARDIST. VANGARDIST Ltd. & CO. KG Mariahilferstraße 49 Top 15 - 1060 Wien
Editorial Dear VANGARDISTS! Our rejuvenating makeover is complete! After a summer of being hard at work, from this fashion issue onwards, the Vangardist is going to gleam in new splendor. We can’t deny that many of our interns have ended up in the office shark tank, but quality assurance has always been our top priority, so sometimes sacrifices had to be made. The positive news is that we’ve moved to a bigger office to accommodate our steadily growing team and egos, have pimped up our general image including our logo, and have given a general makeover to our iPhones, iPads, and website, so that you can now also find current affairs, news, and exciting event tips online. So with all that rejuvenation under our belts, I am now looking forward to tons of exciting new reports that’ll shake up some dusty world-views and provide for some cool parties to shake up our sleepy neighbourhood a bit. This whole rebuilding process was, of course, extremely labour-intensive, which is why I want to thank everyone involved in making it a success: First and foremost, my best buddy and business partner Carlos Gomez, as well as Mirza Sprecakovic, who’s our own bright star on the stylist firmament, Magdalena Weyrer, a lovely companion and graphic designer with magic hands, and the whole tireless and enthusiastic team, including all the freelancers and guest stars. Hoping you’ll enjoy the September fashion issue, Julian Wiehl and his stylish VANGARDIST team
SHOOTINGS
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the last fitting
COVERY STOR
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atelier
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Authencity or Alter Ego
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denim equation
tyranny of authenticity
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fashion shows 2014
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INDEX EDITORIAL
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Editor's Choice
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Style tip facade
Shopzone
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balance
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audiencE with the Multitasking-monkey 86 The Nicola Formichetti interview
Beauty
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When Designers Embalm on tour
how to survive in milan
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Shades of gray on tour
Places
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Flagship Stores vangART
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Recommendations for good listeners
vangART
A Baroque Fairytale Eugenio Recuenco Photography
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o f a u t h e n ti c it y a u t h e n t i c i t y o r a lt e r e g o ?
Text: Klemens Gindl phOTO: ANDREAS WALDSChĂœTZ illustration: Magdalena weyrer
The fall fashion season is here! After we were able to evade annoying fashion questions for the past eight weeks while donning the relaxed style of bare chest, swimming trunks (albeit definitely not knee-long!), and flip-flops, we are now again faced with the old, familiar, tricky questions: In which direction will our personal fashion choices develop over the next couple of months with Fashion Week and similar events approaching fast? Which of the more or less wacky designs of the more or less mad young designers are the really progressive ones that reflect my individual personality at the same time? Because everyone wants to be part of the avant-garde while at the same time staying true to themselves – don't they?
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Intern devoured by sharks
It was right here in this column where we presented the results of our philosophical “style and authenticity” working group one year ago. And these results were indeed very clever and helpful, and thousands of letters of gratitude by happy Vangardists who had finally managed to find their individual style thanks to that issue’s cover story flooded the magazine’s offices. We were so confident! But then the tide turned. JeanPierre, that unfortunate intern of ours, ran into our chief editor on the street one night by sheer coincidence and in a completely private setting. Despite his momentary paralysis induced by the shock of this unexpected encounter, he was able to take a photo with his mobile and post it on a certain social
network. It was utterly shocking! Our boss, the most stylish of all style icons was publicly wearing a sweat suit! JeanPierre disappeared in the company’s shark tank soon thereafter, but the incident troubled us and raised quite a few questions. For example: Why is it that we’re all so obsessed with this whole authenticity nonsense? Does it ruin our boss’ credibility as a style icon if we know that sometimes the boss doesn’t give a damn? And consequently, does that mean that at the office or a public event he’s actually a fake? And most importantly: Who says that fashion should only express who you really are instead of who you want to be? The answer to the last one: society says so – the kind of society that doesn't understand fun.
We are normal;
i t ’ s e v e ry o n e e l s e t h at ’ s w e i r d !
This little episode brought on a wee identity crisis, because simply rehashing a commonplace attitude obviously doesn’t exactly qualify as progressive. Besides, our boss is the coolest cat and never errs, so it must be that everyone else is mistaken. In search for an explanation, we once again looked for answers in philosophy and history and, lo and behold, the error was identified! The problem is the commonplace widespread assumption that fashion and style are one and the same when in reality, in a world that is completely fixated on individuality and has a narcissistic obsession with veracity, the latter is forced upon the former. Across all social settings that act as playgrounds for new fashion, whether it’s at work, at a party, or at a no-tell motel, we are constantly looking for the private individuals behind our playmates’ stylish façades. We don’t judge our politicians based on how skilled they are at handling official government functions, but rather on whom they’re sleep-
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ing with or whether they’ve ever been caught snorting coke. We are shocked when we read somewhere that that nice actor we like is actually a massive c***, and the fact that the successful chief editor of a lifestyle magazine wears sweat suits in his free time makes us doubt his expertise. r o l e p l ay
n o t fa k e ry
Style is not so much an expression of something, as it is a natural characteristic. It is a thought construct inextricably linked to one’s individual character (whatever that may be). If we say that someone “has style,” what we really mean is they’re authentic and by that we mean they’re an individual or not fake. If this definition of style is used synonymously with “fashion” though, the whole thing becomes a very limited, sort of dull, and definitely uncreative affair. Because where’s the fun in always having to be yourself or at least
having to pretend you are? Aren’t we taking ourselves way too seriously with this unconditional authenticity claim? And anyway, aren't we all just who we present to others? Just imagine the potential for creativity, playfulness, and fun in fashion if we could just stop constantly searching for the true person behind someone’s façade. What a liberated form of expression fashion would suddenly be if we could just answer “f*** it!” to supposedly crucial style questions like: Does this shirt express my true personality? t h e w o r l d i s m y s ta g e r
Society’s serious handling of this light and playful matter is not a law of nature, though. Instead, like all things that are not fun, it is a product of the highly conservative nineteenth century, a time marked by puritan straight-lacery when appearances (as in the mere appearance of something... the impression or performance) began to be
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viewed as despicable because people found them unsettlingly insecure. In the much less uptight Europe of earlier centuries however, the world was regarded as a giant stage. And even though this view hasn’t really changed, we no longer accept this as a given, but instead try to convince each other that the roles everyone plays are authentic and not a mere performance. Kind of funny to think that for the posh urbane societies of the Renaissance and Baroque, fake behaviour was a natural part of public life, an attitude which was also reflected in the fantastic fashion excesses of the times. The human body was viewed as a kind of fashion mannequin which had to be adorned in as spectacular a fashion as possible and in any way one pleased. Beauty spots as a
m e a n s o f c o m m u n i c at i o n
Venice was of course the place where things were taken to extremes. In its
heyday, not only was the city stinking rich but it was also crowded as hell. To be able to separate private from public life in a place so full of people, the high society of Venice developed a habit of wearing masks whenever they left their lavish palazzos, and, of course these, masks were not exactly modest adornments. And even if, at a party or any social event, people knew whose face was behind a certain mask, they would still treat each other as if personal identity was utterly irrelevant. Changing one’s mask was always an option as well of course. This highly entertaining masquerade resulted in people only greeting each other with the words “greetings to you, mask,” an archaic version of our modern-day neutral greetings “good morning, sir" or "good evening, ma’am.” The most beautiful and slightly less arcane example of this dégagé attitude toward fashion were fake beauty spots, which were en vogue during the Rococo and employed according to a
certain code system: If worn high up on the cheekbone, they characterised a person as “melancholy and dreamy”; when worn next to the eye they signaled that their bearer was “hotblooded and wild"; and above the upper lip they marked a “liberal-minded dame.” These embellishments were, however, not meant to convey someone’s true personality, but rather their current mood or preferences and who one chose to be on any given day. People’s entire social life was a glamorous
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C a l l f o r p r o g r e s s i v e r e s i s ta n c e
fashion show enhanced by frivolous frolicking and rollicking; everyone could present themselves the way they pleased and no one cared whether the role you played matched your true personality. And when you were bored with one of your public alter egos you just went and changed it without the identity crises that precede this process today.
This type of sophisticated, civilized mode of behavior is matched only unsatisfactorily by our modernday attempts to conceal our personal flaws and blemishes through the use of fashion, hoping these flaws will go unnoticed. It is not for nothing that seventeenth- and eighteenth century life is said to be a lot more fun than today’s (apart from such horrible occurrences as syphilis of course). Obviously this is a rather extreme position. Fashion is an expression of the zeitgeist, and – independent of what this year’s Fashion Week might bring – the current zeitgeist proclaims authenticity. Most designs can’t really be worn at the office or at a party without making their wearer look “costumed” anyway. A tip for all the fashion victims and young designers bored with all this earnestness: Swim against the current; start using fashion as a means to invent and don the alter ego of your choice and outsmart the style terrorists by being in favour of “fake and fun” and being against the tyranny of authenticity! A personal comment to end things on: Person comes from the ancient Greek word personae, meaning – I kid you not – mask! All characters and stories in connection with the editorial staff of your favourite magazine are purley fictional. No people or animals were harmed for this article.
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FACADE
Editor‘S Choice:
style
T IP
Chain by Louis Vuitton
Bracelets by Hermès
Shades by Saint Laurent
Bracelet by Ann Demeulemeester
iPad case by Dolce & Gabbana
Scarf by Givenchy
Hat by Dsquared2
Cap by New Era
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Backpack by 3.1 Phillip Lim
Bag by Giorgio Armani
Shirt by Kenzo
Shirt by Givenchy by Amicis
Shoes by Versace
Watch by Guess
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Sweater by Acne
Sweater by Alexander McQueen
Jogg Jeans by Diesel
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on tour
Text: Ana Kaan
Milan is not exactly one of those topten destinations on European city trip lists; too grey, too much business, too little atmosphere is the prevailing opinion. And it’s true, it’s not the kind of city that would immediately strike a first-time visitor as charming and inspiring, and at first glance it does seem quite un-Italian.
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Despite all this, every time I ascend from the underground (which is called the Metro here), I am stunned by the dazzling beauty of the Duomo and the elegantly attired Milanese, always on their way to some meeting or important appointment. You instantly get the feeling that in this city everyone works a lot and at a very fast pace, which is underlined by the fact that no herds of tourists are crowding Milan's streets – in sharp contrast to Florence or Rome. Even in the summer, the motto is “business as usual,” which is not surprising, as this is the time when almost the entire city is busy realizing the
designs of the great Italian and French fashion labels. For us mere mortals who would rather avoid the summer heat and smog, spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Milan. So many favourites If you’re in Milan for something other than a shopping spree on Via Monte Napoleone, you’ll have to make a bit of an effort, but in return you’ll be rewarded with some truly unique spots, like for example one of the most beautiful concept stores in the world. Carla Sozzani’s Corso Como is tucked away in a green courtyard with a charming
relaxed café in the middle, surrounded by a gallery and the store itself, with its excellent designer collections for both men and women, a space selling a sophisticated selection of perfumes, a book store, and a music shop that fulfill even the most exotic wishes. The gallery has constantly changing exhibitions and is one of the few places in Milan where you can look at stuff for free. When stepping back out into the street, still dazzled by the great setting, you’ll instantly become aware of one of Milan’s key characteristics: The layout of the city is not a coherent structure, but rather a conglomerate of
small “islands” alternating with massive construction sites and architectural eyesores. One of these islands is Brera, not far from Corso Como. Here you’ll find classic stucco-ornamented Milanese residential houses in beautiful reds and yellows interspersed with the kind of small boutiques, cafés, and restaurants that you’d expect to find in an Italian city. In Brera, I often make a brief stopover at the Sergio Rossi shoe shop designed by hyped young architect Antonio Cardillo. Just a few steps down the road there’s a Marc Jacobs store followed by a bar that usually gets really busy at aperitivo hour. Across
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Kanal Naviglio Grande
the road, check out the men’s version sible light,” is taken so seriously here. Life happens in the street of the label-intensive Antonia store with the most recent designs of Lan- Almost as seriously as the aperitivo, a vin trainers on display in the window. northern Italian invention that is sacred to the Milanese and celebrated every evening between 6 and 9 p.m., right Fare bella figura The fashion-conscious Italian man before dinner. After work, most peocomes in many different varieties. ple stop at a bar for an Aperol spritzer There’s the elderly gentleman in his accompanied by maybe a few small exquisite Ermenegildo Zegna suit for plates to snack from and, depending example, which he often likes to com- on the weather, take to the sidewalks bine with a matching pocket square – or even the middle of the street. and hand-made leather shoes, while The best thing about this custom: the the younger version might don a whole thing never costs more than 7 or sports coat and boldly coloured be- 8 euros and the food is always complispoke trousers by Luca Rubinacci. This mentary. As a foreigner it’s hard to unyoung tailor/designer, son of a famous derstand how this all functions, but to Milanese tailor, has a studio on Mi- the Milanese, it’s just the normal prellan’s most prestigious street, the Via ude to dinner, which is consumed elseMonte Napoleone, where he clothes where and generally quite substantial a new generation of Italian gentle- and with dolce incluso. men. The intellectually minded fash- One of the nicest locations for the ion editor dressed from head to toe aperitivo is somewhere along the cain Neil Barett and Raf Simons is just nal Naviglio Grande right by the Metro one of many different examples. The stop Porta Genova, which is an area fascination Italian men, both hetero- with reduced traffic (a rare treat in a and homosexual, have for fashion is busy place like Milan) where you’ll find noticeable and can be seen in people one bar after the other and can simulfrom all backgrounds and age groups. taneously enjoy a nice view of the waIt’s not for nothing that the Italian ex- ter. Rita & Cocktails, located on a small pression fare bella figura, meaning side street off the Ripa di Porta Tici“to represent yourself in the best pos- nese (the street along the other side of
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the canal), is my personal favourite for its interesting clientele and relaxed atmosphere. And in case you come with a proper appetite, this place also offers the best burgers in town. The '70s style Mono in Porta Venezia at the other side of town is a preferred hangout for the intellectual fashion scene. Head in the opposite direction and you’ll get to the Blanco, a bar you’d normally expect to find in Ibiza with a white interior, plus cool design and cool people. You might even run into the boys from Dolce & Gabbana here, as their headquarters are located just around the corner in a small street well away from the commercially-oriented shopping mile Corso Buenos Aires. Design is everywhere In Milan, culture and pleasure are never far removed from each other, which makes a visit to Milanese museum such an idle affair. But at the new Museo del Novecento located right in the city centre, you can simultaneously admire its 20th century modern art and paintings distributed over various floors that are connected by a grand spiral staircase reminiscent of the Guggenheim in New York while enjoying the view of the adjacent cathedral
and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Afterwards, head to Original Pizza OK at Piazza Santo Stefano for the best pizza in town and a nice rest. If you’re in a bit of a rush, go to Brek instead, a nice self-service restaurant where many locals who work in the area go on their lunch break. An important design centre like Milan needs its own design museum of course. The Triennale near Cardona showcases Italian interior design classics as well as a constantly changing series of temporary exhibitions. In summer, you can also take a relaxing break at the museum’s café, sitting between art sculptures and shady trees. One must-do that’s always on my Milan wish list is the Spazio Rossana Orlandi, a combination between furniture store, gallery, and fashion boutique located inside a former tie factory. It's hidden away in a courtyard, and you have to ring a bell to get in, but it’s well worth overcoming any feelings of shyness, as on the inside you’ll be rewarded with fantastic old and new furniture and art on multiple levels. There’s also a great shop with small accessories and accent pieces at affordable prices. The owner, Rossana Orlandi, an elderly lady with extrava-
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
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gant taste and looks, is always on the centre, where the big labels like Establook-out for new designers and artists lished & Sons and Moroso have their to show and sell at her gallery and shop. exhibitions, areas such as the former working-class and now seriously trendy neighbourhood Zona Tortona have also Design fever Especially when the big furniture fair become commercially relevant, so now Salone del Mobile takes place, spots you can see crowds of people moving like these are highly frequented and across Porta Genova Bridge in the dithe whole city is buzzing with excite- rection of Superstudio Piu, a massive ment and activity. Over the years, dif- event complex which houses designferent parts of the city have managed ers' shows. The times when Zona Torto establish themselves as favoured tona was home to the furniture design locations for the fair. Apart from the avant-garde are over though, as most
Salone del Mobile
of the young talent has already moved on to Lambrate, where rents are cheaper. Although these days many people moan and complain about the Salone, to me it is still quite a spectacular affair. For days on end, the streets are a lot livelier than usual and you have the chance to see tons of great things for free. There are also a lot of parties going on during that time – you just have to figure out where (or simply come across one by accident and crash it). For the rest of the year, fashionistas
dominate the Milanese party scene which might, for example, entail tasting a little vodka sampler at the Pravda vodka bar in Porta Romana or queuing outside the Plastic club, a well-established institution among Milan’s partygoers. Near Corso Como there’s the Puncto G (the former Gasoline), another Milanese institution, which provides a proper electronic underground experience amidst all the pseudo-fancy teenage places that prevail. The metro only runs until midnight and can be
© Sara Cimino
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quite deserted and run-down, which means that around 4 a.m. taxis become a sought-after rarity that you should order by phone, as catching a free one in the street is next to impossible. Your best bet is asking an Italian for help or just moving on to some after-hours place and carrying on until the metro starts running again.
Milan’s beauty certainly doesn’t hit you in the face, and you could easily dismiss it as just another industrial town with one great piece of art (I’m speaking of Da Vinci’s Last Supper in case you’re wondering) and a world-class opera. Or you could make the effort, see behind its gates, and discover its lovely courtyards.
FACTBOX Milan Hotels For luxury lovers, I recommend the Bulgari, right next to Via Monte Napoleone: 1930s style and fantastic design located right in the heart of Milan. Bulgari Hotel Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7B, 20121 Milan www.bulgarihotels.com Double rooms for platinum card owners If you’re more the type looking for charming accommodations, stay at the Antica Locanda Solferino Via Castelfidardo 2 right in the heart of pretty Brera. www.anticalocandasolferino.it Double rooms from 150 euros For more limited comfort, try the central and affordable Ostello Bello, Via Medici 4, right next to Metro stop Missori. Ostello Bello Via Medici 4 www.ostellobello.com/it Double rooms from 80 euros,
beds from 28 euros Bars Rita & Cocktails Via Angelo Fumagalli 1 – for relaxed people-watching and great cocktails next to the Naviglio Grande Blanco Via Morgagni 2 – Milan’s Little Ibiza, very gay friendly www.blancomilano.com Mono Via Lecco 6 Ang. Via P. Castaldi – '70s flair plus fashion people in interesting an atmosphere mono on facebook Pravda Vodka Bar Via C. Vittadini 6 pravda on facebook
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Restaurants Milan is the best place in all of Italy to have fish (!), with the best fish flown in daily from the south. Cafés Botega Caffè Cacao Corso Garibaldi 12. – normally, people in Milan drink their espresso standing at the bar but if you’re in need of a more extensive sitdown coffee break, you’re in the right place here www.caffebotegacacao.it
L’Officina 12 Alzaia Naviglio Grande 12. – great fish and atmosphere by the Naviglio Grande canal www.officina12.it
Deus Cafe Via Thaon di Revel 3, in Isola. – beautifully decorated café, restaurant, and concept store selling fashion, bicycles, and motor bikes www.deuscafe.it
L’angolo d’Abruzzo Via Rosolino Pilo 20, near Porta Venezia. top-notch pasta and antipasti, traditional checked tablecloth plus an original atmosphere; good food at affordable prices.
Original Pizza OK Piazza Santo Stefano, near Duomo – great pizza and nice atmosphere
Pizza OK Via Lambro 15, near Porta Venezia. – offers the most gay-friendly pizza in Milan – and the most beautiful waiters! The Small Via Paganin corner of Piazza Argentina. – modern Italian cuisine, basic but good the small on facebook Brek Piazzetta U. Giordano 1, near San Babila – a good option for a quick and affordable downtown lunch
Clubs Plastic – a well-established club with a rigorous door policy, predominantly gay and fashion people plastic on facebook q|Lab Via Padova 21, near Loreto – open every Friday, this has recently turned into the new place to be Magazzini Generali Via Pietrasanta 14 – large club with a great variety of events and DJs www.magazzinigenerali.it
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VANGART
A Baroque Fairytale
eugenio recuenco photography
TEXT: Andrew Ütt photos: eugenio recuenco
It’s not every day that a photographer invokes art history into their imagery. And even less so that a photographer reinterprets the concepts of fashion based on mise-en-scène. Yet Eugenio Recuenco not only knows his art history, he knows how to use it to create individual and often ominous settings for both his artistic and commercial practice.
BL ANCANIEVES, 2005
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Let's be clear. Marie Antoinette was not from the Renaissance. She was born into Rococo and ended up (without a head) in the Neoclassical period. Yet she’s known for what she was— splendidly dressed with outrageous costumes (not only her dress, but her pumps, jewelry, masks, and headwear) that referenced the symbolism, religiousness, and chiaroscuro of the Renaissance. So when we see portraits or fairytale-like scenes that evoke a longforgotten time, we immediately think of Da Vinci’s turn-of-the-(16th)-century’s paintings with rolling hillsides and deep shadows—the Renaissance. Rococo, in turn, was the result of the eventual growth of the Baroque art movement, which focused on religious symbolism and the careful use of natural light mixed with an indeterminate artificial lighting to give prominence to its paintings’ subjects. The result was a half-century of well-lit paintings of wealthy Italian, French, and Dutch individuals.
So it’s no surprise that this form of lighting inspired photographers who attempted to transmit both a naturalistic and austere sensation onto their subjects. The result was the opposite of natural, and therefore defined as pictorial, or constructed. These two sentiments, the presence of artificial lighting and the construc-
THE BEAUTY AND THE BEAST 2, 2008
tion of the image, are seminal to the work of Eugenio Recuenco, a Madridbased photographer who in addition to constructing images for magazines such as Vogue, GQ, Madame Figaro, Bertha, and Twill, has produced a body of artistic work that reflects themes of fantasy worlds, surreal machinery, fairytales, exaggerated histories, and sadis-
tic scenes.
Fairy tales to Social Analysis In his most recent exhibition at Camera Work Contemporary Gallery in Berlin, Recuenco displays a series of images based on well-known Disney® fairytales such as Snow White, Beauty and the Beast, and Cinderella, as well as on historical references to Abraham Lincoln, pistol dueling, and even a commentary on Orientalism in society. The images span a broad spectrum of
concepts that are produced with the utmost detail, representing the most exceptional lighting conditions—a result of his staff of assistants who operate together as if working on a Hollywood set. Recuenco’s images are cohesive and complex, and in some cases utilize the digital laboratory to construct forms, combine images, or define spaces. Those images that haven’t been constructed have been built on location and captured with the instant click of the shutter. In the case of the images
EL DUELO, 2008
Cinderella and Snow White, every detail has been perfected, even down to the leaves on the ground and the period clothing and patterns on the fabrics. Though these images in this exhibit speak of distinct concepts, what really completes their presentation are the models themselves. It is clear that, once the preparation of his scene, the careful placement of lighting, and the after-effects have taken place, that Recuenco is a portraitist. Unlike other portraitists, he is not seeking to capture the person
PAYASO, 2006
and identity within his subject, but rather to manipulate his model to display his own attitude. The result can be an interpretation of the photographer as subject, or simply as evidence of an experienced commercial photographer who knows how to handle his models.
Orientalism & his Brand Either way, it is clear that Recuenco is a technically fantastic photographer. His conceptual pillars are constantly questioned within his own work, attempting to distinguish themselves through the identities defined by his own vision. One group of images stands out among the others—the series titled “Orientalism�. Before seeing the photos, one could make observations solely on the title, giving reference to scenes of Asia, Asiatic cultural references, or the use of Asia in the production of his photographs. What we see, however, is not so Asian, rather much more similar to the high Renaissance paintings of Da Vinci and Rafael. Distinctly, they take on another aspect of art history that
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isn’t explored in the other images. The images are typological in nature and present their model as having her own identity, rather than that of the photographer. We can relate to this woman, just as we can with the beauty of the Mona Lisa and the distantly evasive horizon fading behind her. Beyond these images, Recuenco has also explored other art movements, including possible scenes of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Film Noir, Silent Films, and French Surrealism. It is without a doubt that Eugenio Recuenco is both a commercial and artistic photographer. We can easily read his images and discern his social and historical references while also appreciating his distinct style of lighting. His exhibit Camera Work Contemporary opens on August 31 and runs until November 16.
VIOLIN 2, 2009
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BALANCE
Beauty Beauty and fashion come hand in hand, and designers have realized that there is a growing market waiting for new grooming products to help achieve the perfection their brands represent. This isn’t only about beautiful clothes, but also about beautiful people.
Text: JuĂĄn danilo zamora
Armani Men Perfect Master Aging gracefully is something we all aim for, and in this matter, there is no better adviser than Giorgio Armani, whom with more than 70 years, keeps his young spirit. Perfect Master is a product that combines seven actions into one formula, making it perfect for those of us who are worried about the effect of time on our faces. This is not only an anti-aging cream, but a pore reducer and oil-control balm. With quick absorption and an amazing scent, this solution is a good option to prevent those annoying signs of aging.
Versace Eros After Shave Balm Donatella Versace knows what we want, and she’s presenting a new line based on her fantastic new creation. Give your daily routine a touch of lavishness with this aftershave that leaves your skin soothed and ready for action. Versace is all about opulence, and its new fragrance is a fresh and vibrant combination of mint leaves, geranium flowers, green apple, and cedar wood. Take that scent with you everywhere, and get ready to seduce everyone around you. The signature Versace Medusa will look amazing in your bathroom, too.
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DSQUARED2 Potion For Man Hair & Body Wash Dan and Dean Caten from DSquared2 bring the refinement of their brand to a grooming product that will clean your whole body (hair included), leaving it with a scent of cashmere wood, cinnamon, and musk. Traditional yet refreshing, this gel is perfect for a nice shower after a long day, in order to go to bed feeling recharged. It’s a practical solution for those who live in a rush and want to make shower time an exquisite experience without it taking a lot of time. The cool bottle is perfect to carry to the gym, or to take with you on a trip.
Dior Homme Dermo System Anti-Fatigue Firming Eye Serum Tired eyes? Don’t worry. The top French brand has a line created exclusively for men that brings the latest technology on the market to the aid of our good looks. This product is meant to be applied to the sensitive skin around the eyes, reducing dark circles and preventing puffiness. The special tightening effect of this serum will restore eye contour, giving you a fresh appearance day after day.
Prada Luna Rossa Shower Gel Miuccia Prada was inspired by the ocean and boating competitions to create the proper scent for the man who seeks adventure. If you like outdoors activities, sailing, or just want to freshen up after the gym, this powerful combination of orange, spearmint, and wood will recharge your energy. This product’s potent hydrating effects make it perfect for a shower after a sunny day.
Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Men Deodorant If you want to keep the scent of your perfume for a long time, here’s a practical tip we can give you: look for a deodorant that matches it. In this case, Venezuelan glamour lady Carolina Herrera offers the perfect solution for the man who wants to smell good during the day, even if he has a long routine: a long-lasting deodorant that protects your body from sweating, keeping it fresh and dry while giving it the sophisticated aroma of Herrera’s most popular fragrance.
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Audience with the Multitasking Monkey interwiew / Nicola Formichetti, Creative Director of Diesel
Text: Ana Kaan Photos: Mirza Sprecakovic & collection Xiao Li
Over the past 12 years, the talent factory ITS has accumulated 11,000 portfolios, more than 200 outfits and over 120 accessories and pieces of jewellery. As one of the most renowned talent contests in the areas of fashion and accessory design, the event counts on support from well-known labels like Diesel, Swarowski, YKK, and Swatch, who put up lucrative awards every year, and a carefully chosen jury, which enforces the competition’s high standards for creativity and originality. This year the main award, worth 25,000 euros, went to the fashion designer Xiao Li, who managed to win over the jury with her extravagant creations made of knitwear and rubberized elements.
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After the show, the VANGARDIST spoke to Diesel’s new creative director Nicola Formichetti about what it was like being a jury member and about his future projects, for example the Diesel Reboot Project, which was one of the first things he tackled in his new job. Being a pioneer in both social media and fashion, Formichetti came up with the idea to invite talented people from around the world to participate in the #DIESELREBOOT project by sharing their inspiration and ideas via the #DIESELREBOOT Tumblr page, thus contributing to the shaping of a new Diesel era. Ready, set, #DIESELREBOOT!
VANGARDIST: Nicola, your approach to fashion is a unique and very personal one. What do you look for in new talent? Nicola: I don’t really look for anything in particular. I have a nose for original ideas, and I’m very instinctive, which is why I try to work without rules or anything like that. If I like it, I like it! This year the decision was difficult, because everyone in the jury liked a couple of finalists, so there was some discussion. I think Xiao Li was a very good choice though; her knit pieces that look more like rubber than knitwear are very, very cool. V: Social media are changing communication. Do you believe that will influence future designers and the way they work? Nicola: Yes and no. At the end of the day, all that matters is that your work is good. Sure, you can shout about your work on social networks, but if it’s no good then what’s the point? What social media is very useful for though, is as a tool for research and innovation, and if you really have something strong to say, then you can reach people through them. I think social media can help you broaden your horizon, and that’s a cool thing. But they’re not the most important thing; there has to be a balance between the digital and the physical side.
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V: Your professional experience is extremely diversified; you work as a designer, art director, and stylist. How is this going to influence your work at Diesel? Nicola: I’m sort of the perfect person for the job (laughs) because I’m going to be able to do lots of different things. I’m a multi-tasking monkey; I do everything myself. I think Diesel is such a unique brand. Of course there’s the collection aspect, the clothes, the accessories, sunglasses, and all that. Also, I’m going to do the communication, which is imagery, catalogues, videos, and TV spots. I also develop the whole strategy, do the PR and marketing, and design all store concepts. I spend a lot of time in Italy but I’ve also kept my places in New York, Tokyo and London. I’m a citizen of the world. And, Diesel being such a global brand, I think that’s a good thing. Diesel is a global brand, and I’m a global person – we’re the perfect match! V: What are the exciting aspects and challenges that lie in working with denim? Well, it’s the first time that I'm doing it, so it should be interesting. I don’t really know yet, because I’m only starting with it, but I’m sure it’ll be amazing because it presents me with a great challenge and be-
cause denim is the coolest material there is. For a long time there have been no innovations in denim design so we want to do something crazy. My first show is a boys and girls collection in March 2014, and in October I’m going to present a small capsule collection. It’s great, because it’s the first time that I’m doing something affordable, something that people will actually be able to buy – not at high street prices, but Diesel is not very expensive. For me the idea of seeing people wearing my designs on the street is very exciting. And yes, I’ve already started designing and everything’s looking pretty hot. Quite incredible how many jobs signore Formichetti manages to juggle – and very successfully at that – while still managing to stay relaxed. It was a big pleasure conversing with such a talented "multitasking monkey" and, of course, we’re already very excited to see his capsule collection in October. PS: You’ll find an overview of his work to date at this link in the 20 issue.
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PI CTURES BY VA LER I O MEZZA NO T T I
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Stretch lamb leather jogging MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS
Atelier Photography : Brice Hardelin Model : Clément Becq @TheModsAgency Paris
Shirt and trousers MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS / Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN / Woodstick with silver skull JEAN BOGGIO / Silk scarf JEAN BOGGIO
Silk and cashmere jacket with a mink fur collar / Suit with belted waist, shirt and necktie MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS
Suit with belted waist, shirt and necktie MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS / Shoes PAUL SMITH
Trousers with silk belt and shirt MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS / Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN / Silver bracelet JEAN BOGGIO
Stretch lamb leather jogging MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS
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Neil Barrett Flagship Store by Zaha Hadid Architects Tokyo, Japan Text: mario kollinger
www.zaha-hadid.com
Š Virgile Simon Bertrand
This one-of-a-kind store in Tokyo reflects the minimalistic aesthetic of the clothing label by using the same design parameters such as fixed points, folds, pleats,
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and cutouts in material. The space, marked by its matte white furniture and sculptures in juxtaposition with polished cement flooring, creates an interplay between masculinity and femininity.
Š Virgile Simon Bertrand
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HITGallery by Studio Fabio Novembre Times Square Shopping Mall, Hong Kong
www.novembre.it
Š Dennis Lo
With the first store of the HITGallery concept series, Fabio Novembre wanted to capture the essence and spirit of Italy in wonderfully new ways. A classical Ital-
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ian matrix—symmetrical sculptures, rows of columns, and one dominant color on the wall offset by black-and-white flooring—creates the ideal backdrop for the high-end fashion sold within.
Š Dennis Lo
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NIKE Harajuku Store by Wonderwall Tokyo, Japan
www.wonder-wall.com
Š Kozo Takayama
The NIKE store in Harajuku, Tokyo is a true sporting ground. Adjacent to the bombastic NIKEiD STUDIO, visitors can find the Runner's Studio, where
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they can be fitted for shoes perfect for their feet and receive advice in finding a personal running style. The NIKE spirit can be found throughout the store's interior design in details such as chandeliers constructed from shoes.
Š Kozo Takayama
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VANGART
listen to this! tions a d n e m m o c e Music r eners for good list
Jay Z MAGNA CARTA HOLY GRAIL If you think Beyoncé’s husband is just another rapper, think again. Jay Z is a pioneer and a hit maker, and this new album is just more proof of his talent. Produced mainly by Timbaland and Pharrel Williams, with collaborations by talented singers like Justin Timberlake and Beyoncé herself, Magna Carta Holy Grail is definitely a piece of art you will enjoy even if you don’t like rap music. “Tom Ford” and its runway show vibe, “JAY Z Blue” and its amazing sample from Mommie Dearest with a raging Faye Dunaway, and “Picasso Baby” are our favorite tracks. go to amazon.com
Kanye West Yeezus Polemic as always, Mr. West shows us he can do whatever he wants while looking flawless and sounding even better. We can tell that Yeezus is the result of an exploratory process, where the limits of right and wrong are blurred and the only thing we get is amazing music. Titles like “Black Skinhead”, “I Am a God,” and “New Slaves” are provocative and kind of bad in a good way. Daft Punk supported the singer in this project, and produced some of its tracks. The result is a powerful sound that mixes rock guitars, electronic beats, and rap vocals. A great comeback from a great performer. go to amazon.com
TEXT: JUÁN D. ZAMORA
Snoop Lion REINCARNATED
The Bling Ring ORIGINAL SOUNDTRACK
In our last issue, we talked about one of our favorite movies of the year so far, and now it’s time to review the Popular rapper Snoop Dogg is dead. music that set the tone for such highBut don’t worry—a new version of class drama. As always, Sofia Cophim has arisen from the ashes. Sick pola brings an amazing selection of and tired of the violence in the world, the artist is reincarnated as a new self, songs to get you into the atmosphere of the story. In Marie Antoinette, she with a new sound and a new attitude. This is an album with a strong reggae chose songs from the ‘80s and ‘90s to project that rebel feeling. Now, rapinfluence and pointed lyrics against pers and black singers are the main injustice and hate, plus collaborations with artists as diverse as Rita Ora, Mi- ingredient for this cocktail where M.I.A., ley Cyrus, Drake, and Akon. Popular Kanye West, Frank Ocean, our beloved Azealia Banks, plus many more, meet producer Major Lazer lends the album to give us the soundtrack for a wild a characteristic sound that might be described as “new reggae,” with its night. Feel like a paparazzi target with electronic vibe and tribal beat. Get in “212” (Azealia Banks), “All of the Lights” (Kanye West featuring Rihanna), and the mood with "Torn Apart," "Lighters “Bad Girls” (M.I.A.). Up," and "Get Away." go to amazon.com go to amazon.com
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CELEBRATION
UP Coming . ?! . . n i n o 's t a Wh
// new york Penthaus Friday / 6. September, 11:00 pm Copacabana Rooftop 268 West 47th Street New York, New York 10036
// romE Gay Village 2013 / 14. September, 10:00 pm Parco del Ninfero Via delle Tre Fontane 00144 Roma
You don't have to load your nose with narcotics to get high. Just climb a few flights of stairs to enjoy a nighttime carousel well above the streets and sidewalks of Manhattan. Every Friday on the Copacabana rooftop, digitized records are spun (by DJ Johnny Dynell, among others), with music that runs the gamut of styles from A to Z – weather permitting, of course. Doors open at 11 p.m. www.boiparty.com
The circus is back in town. And one thing's for sure: It will be a scandal – at least if you literally interpret the newest theme of the mightiest queer spectacle in Vienna. The official event fliers were so indecent that they had to be censored before being posted on Facebook. So what does that tell us? It'll be loud, outrageous, and extremely naughty. The party kicks off at 10 p.m. www.gayvillage.it
// vienna The CircuS – It's a Scandal! / 19. September, 10:00 pm Arena Baumgasse 80 1030 Vienna The circus is back in town. And one thing's for sure: It will be a scandal – at least if you literally interpret the newest theme of the mightiest queer spectacle in Vienna. The official event fliers were so indecent that they had to be censored before being posted on Facebook. So what does that tell us? It'll be loud, outrageous, and extremely naughty. The party kicks off at 10 p.m. www.thecircus.at
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// berlin BeiTola / 21. September St. Georg RitterstraĂ&#x;e 26 10969 Berlin BeiTola: One of the greatest parties because it's one of the manliest that we can find in Berlin at the moment. Not as trashy as London Calling, less hipster than Homopatik, but therefore equipped with lovelier electronic Groovy Music for the type who sweats testosterone. This monthly rendezvous has been a part of the German capital city's party landscape since March. facebook
// las vegas Gay Days Las Vegas / 3.- 9. September For a few days in September, Las Vegas, the city of illusions, is bathed in a different light, one that outshines all the neon signs and casino lighting: Gay Days are coming to the desert oasis. You can play the stranded merman during four days of pool parties, let it all hang out at the Hard Rock Cafe, or simply enjoy one colorful show after another until your eyes hurt and extremities can't take it anymore. All the who, what, where, and when details can be found at www.gaydays.com
// hannover Volume / 14. September Disco Studio 6 Raschplatz 6 30161 Hannover What do we think of when someone asks us about Volume? No, not styling mousse and blow-dry hairstyles, but the hottest set of parties in Hannover. Over four spaces, Volume's organizers deliver the sounds of pop, house, electro, R&B, '80s, and Schlager (German pop songs). Event promoters have arranged for another VIP visitor, but who they're bringing this time is, of course, still under wraps. We'll just have to wait and see! www.volume-party.de