Luci - Issue 5 - English

Off the hamster wheel Goodbye old routine, hello new life

Luci

Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg ISSUE 5 — ENGLISH

The Picnickers Walk to relax and explore

Urban Outdoors Islands in the middle of the city

Editorial

Moien and welcome to Luxembourg!

Have you ever felt the urge to just get out, into life, into nature, to switch off and recharge? Then let us take you with us in this special edition of Luci magazine. Join us in discovering new places and activities in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg and join people who are on the go out of love for the country, and are passionate about what gives them new strength.

Hike the narrow slopes of the Éislek, climb among impressive rock formations of the Mullerthal, and cycle through the gentle Moselle landscape in the heart of Europe. We take you to our favourite places in the city and countryside, looking for your inner centre and inspiring moments. We’ve put together many outdoor activities tips for you.

But for now, get comfortable and immerse yourself in Luxembourg’s stories, both great and small. Enjoy reading Luci and we hope to see you soon in Luxembourg.

Dr. Sebastian Reddeker CEO

Luxembourg

for Tourism

PS: Did you miss the first editions of Luci? Order it for free online at www.luci.travel and we’ll deliver even more inspiring Luci moments to your door.

A classic trail calls!

The Mullerthal Trail spans a whopping 112 kilometres and is one of the most popular hiking trails in Luxembourg. Distinguished as a “Leading Quality Trail –Best of Europe”, it is marked by varied landscapes, surprisingly challenging hills and an array of camping spots. An ideal spot for a father-son adventure!

Today, Luc and Leo are starting the Mullerthal Trail at Berdorf campsite, ideally located in the heart of the Mullerthal. Early morning light shimmers through the trees. Steam swirls up from other campers’ coffee mugs. Luc and Leo, with their hats and backpacks, are ready to go.

Immerse yourself in nature for days on end. Let a babbling brook and an owlet’s tender hoots soothe you to sleep under the stars. Heat up a hearty soup on the camping stove and savour a sense of freedom and independ ence. No need to traverse the vast expanses of Lapland. There is adventure to be found right here in Luxembourg!

Originally, the tour was meant to prepare Luxembourgers Luc Reis and son Leo for a big hiking adventure in the far North: the challenging Fjällräven Classic Sweden. Like the Mullerthal Trail, Fjällräven is known for its narrow paths and stairs that require a lot of climbing up and down. At 112 kilometres, the Mullerthal Trail is even longer by two kilometres. Perfect practice!

Much more than a test run

The duo hits the challenging trail equipped with their Sweden gear including camping stove, tent, functional clothing and more. They couldn’t be more prepared. Dad carries 20 kilos, son eight.

“The Mullerthal Trail is an adven ture. The landscapes are just so unique and beautiful: caves, rocks, ravines, unexpected vistas, villag es. And the trail is not easy! It’s a fun challenge,” says Luc Reis.

Luc works in tourism and knows what people look for when they need a break. He loves hiking for the sense of calm and freedom it instils. Now in his mid-forties, he appreciates certain luxuries

but doesn’t mind trading them in for a thin camping mat every now and then.

“Campsites in Luxembourg are really great! Often in beautiful locations, some have pools and most have great playgrounds for children,” he says. Along the Mul lerthal Trail, he’s already stayed at Nommern, Heringer Millen, Beaufort and Berdorf.

The father and son first hiked the Mullerthal Trail five years ago. Their successful trip to Sweden shortly after was an unforgettable adven ture. Leo was ten years old at the time. He is fifteen now. A passion ate scout, he feels at home in nature. “Sleeping and eating outside, being on the trail with friends is amazing,”

he says. He is looking forward to the 2023 World Scout Jamboree in South Korea, a huge event that takes place every four years and unites up to 50,000 fourteen- to sixteen-year-old scouts from all over the world. They share a love of nature and community spirit. These values are also important to his dad, Luc. He was and still is a member of the scouts.

Today, Luc and Leo are starting the Mullerthal Trail at Berdorf campsite. The first goal is the socalled Devil’s Island (“Däiwelsinsel”) in Berdorf. The forest opens like a curtain onto a pan orama of luscious green woods and cliffs, emblematic of the Mullerthal. Can you spot the ravines, cliffs and caves hiding

The Trooskneppchen trail is a challenge for Leo. It’s a blazing hot summer day and Leo is looking forward to resting in the shade with a view of the abbey in Echternach.

The Mullerthal Trail consists of three different routes, four ExtraTours and a few other hiking trails. All trails are interconnected and can be hiked together or in sections.

At the core of the so-called Devil’s Island, father and son come across two people doing yoga. Bart and Lobke are from Belgium and are holidaying in their camper van. They are here to go climbing with friends but also enjoy doing yoga in nature.

The unique Girsterklaus near Rosport is one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in Luxembourg. Behind the small chapel, crops were rolled into straw bales. Trees and a cemetery surround the chapel. It is a peaceful place, ideal for a rest.

among the greenery? Like the Devil’s Island, they have spooky names like Death Chamber and Den of Thieves!

Here, Luc and Leo stumble upon Bart Cockx, 44, and Lobke Dillin, 43, doing yoga. “We’ve been coming here for almost 20 years. The Mullerthal region is a highlight. You’ll find peace and solitude without having to drive far,” says Bart and switches to another yoga pose. On the bridge with the green metal rail ing, Leo tries to stand on one leg but his heavy backpack throws him off balance and he gives up, laughing.

Luc and Leo continue on their way, over hill and dale, through crevices and a sea of boulders. On this hot summer day, the ancient rock formations feel refreshingly cool. The Mullerthal is truly diverse. The duo climbs up the Trooskneppchen path in Echternach. The serpentine trail is steep and narrow. A small number of bushes and leafy trees offer some respite from the scorching sun. Leo needs a break. “We’ll take a break at the top,” says Luc and tightens his backpack. The view at the summit is well worth it. Before them lies the stately basilica of Echternach embedded in green ery, its bells chiming. Leo sits on a bench and takes a sip from his water bottle.

To cool off, hikers can head to the forest around Alkummer near Steinheim. The narrow, pointed dolomite rocks form a kind of room and one of the many puzzle pieces that make

up the Natur- & Geopark Mëller dall. The Mullerthal has been part of the international network of UNESCO Global Geoparks since 2022. Both dolomite and sandstone formations are em blematic of the Mullerthal region and offer a profound insight into the country’s geological history.

Hiking in the prehistoric sea

During the Triassic and Jurassic eras, over 200 million years ago, the sea covered the Mullerthal region along with its dolomite and sandstone formations. As the water receded, rivers scored through the stone and created the current landscape including plateaus and valleys that have been populated by humans since the Mesolithic era. As the biggest river in the region, the Sauer shaped rock into sheer rock walls on both sides of the valley. Riv

ulets and streams also created ravines, offering a beautiful contrast to the rolling hills of the region.

Training ground for bigger feats

The “Alkummer” is essentially a very narrow passage between two huge rocks. It fits one person, squished, and only if the backpack isn’t too big. Luc and Leo wait for two other hikers to clear the passage one after the other. Sandra Verholen, 43, and Ronny Josten, 37, are visiting from the Netherlands and are in Luxembourg for six days. They

The Alkummer is an impressive dolomite corridor. This is where Luc and Leo meet two Dutch hikers.

Last stop on Luc and Leo’s tour is the town of Larochette. It’s the weekend and there’s a bustling market in the town centre. And yet, a few metres uphill everything is green and quiet. To crown the adventure, the father-son duo hike up to the Himmelsbierg viewpoint overlooking the castle ruins.

Veilz, Velz, Feltz, Fels, Rupes, Roketa, La Roiche, La Rochette, Larochette.

Over its more than 800-year history, this place has had many names. The name refers to the rock on which the castle was built in the 11th century.

At the Himmelsbierg viewpoint above Larochette, Leo gets his well-deserved snack: packet risotto cooked on a powerful camping stove. Luc follows up with a cup of coffee. Today’s tour is complete.

are using the Mullerthal Trail to practise for the Norway Trail. Clearly, the Mullerthal Trail is a training ground for bigger feats. It’s their first time in Luxem bourg and they are enchant ed. “Yesterday, we covered 22 kilometres with 400 metres in altitude change. It’s challenging

and ideal for training. And the landscapes are just gorgeous!” says Sandra. Today, they’re walking 14 kilometres on Route 1 and admiring the rock for mations. Luc and Ronny share their experiences of sleeping in the wilderness. “In Norway, used toilet paper must be burnt,” Luc recalls and grins. For outdoor adventures, he keeps his toilet paper on a wire in a plastic bag to keep it safe from rain. Shar ing outdoor experiences is part of this world. We never stop learning.

Reaching the summit

The last stop on Luc and Leo’s tour is the town of Larochette. It’s the weekend and there’s a bustling market in the town centre. New and old wares are being sold. Portuguese is spoken all around. Everything is colourful and lively. Children want toys, adults toast with beer. And yet, a few steps away, everything is green and quiet. To crown the adventure, father and son want to hit the Himmelsbierg viewpoint.

The path leads past the church, up many stairs to the top of the hill, along somewhat untamed and mysterious gardens. There are little figurines everywhere. At the top, Leo gets his welldeserved snack: packet risotto cooked on an ultra-fast camping stove. They’ve completed the tour. Leo’s smile gets bigger and bigger. On a trail like this, it’s the little things that make you really happy.

Devil’s Island, Death Chamber or Den of Thieves: The Mullerthal region is imbued with evocative names and fabled stories that awaken a sense of myth and magic. The name “Mëllerdall”, or Mullerthal, finds its origins in the many mills along the Sauer and the Black Ernz, as well as along many other streams.

Hiking

Top Trails

Rewarding experiences

For hikers, Luxembourg is the ideal destination: the country has one of the densest networks of hik ing trails in Europe. The “top class”, so to speak, are “Leading Quality Trails – Best of Europe.” They meet strict criteria to ensure attractive tours and glimpses into diverse landscapes.

The 112-kilometre Muller thal Trail  , which runs through the Mullerthal region, is internationally renowned. The landscape alternates between fasci nating rock formations and dense forest. And the altitude you climb during your hike is not to be sneezed at either. www.mullerthal-trail.lu

The 158-kilometre Escapar denne Trail  combines two “Leading Quality Trails - Best of Europe”, the Lee and the cross-bor der Éislek Trail. It leads through varied and, in part, still original landscapes in the Luxembourg-Belgian Ardennes, over high pla teaus and cleft rocks, green meadows and through coniferous forests, and is always well marked. www.visit-eislek.lu

In the north of Luxem bourg, more precisely in the Éislek, there are over 200 circular walking trails through forests, past cas tles, through deep valleys and between rocks. The 18 Éislek Pied  are particu larly beautiful and diverse. They are also a reason why the Éislek has now been named the first quality walking region in Europe “Leading Quality Region –Best of Europe”. www.visit-eislek.lu

In the south of the coun try, hiking culture is also breaking new ground: The 90-kilometre Minett Trail  runs through a fascinating nature reserve on the former industrial wasteland of the open cast mine. The “Kabaisercher” hiking lodges are there to welcome hikers. The original accommodations are former industrial buildings, the entrance portal to the fairy tale park, schools, factories and tourist vehicles that have been converted for overnight stays. www.minettrail.lu

Right at the heart of Luxembourg, the Guttland.Trails  take pleasure hikers on dreamy journeys. Two of the trails are part of the “Leading Quality Trails Day Walks – Best of Eu rope”. Slow tourism is the magic word here. Simply walk in nature, stress free. www.guttlandtrails.lu

In the east of the country, various dream loops  certified by the German hiking institute attract visitors to the vineyards and the Mo selle. Across the country, the Auto-Pédestres  circular walking trails offer the opportunity to take shorter, yet charm ing, hikes. Last but not least, there are a large number of local and themed hiking trails. Why not discover a meditation trail, barefoot trail or sound walking trail? Take things down a gear and go for a pleasant walk...

The NatureWanderPark delux promises unlimited hiking enjoyment in the Eifel/Luxembourg region. 23 premium-quality circular walking trails are part of the hiking range of the Südeifel, the Éislek region and the Muller thal – Luxembourg’s Lit tle Switzerland. You will pass through four natural parks, dense forests, but also over wide pastures and meadows or even along hop fields, through deep-cut valleys, mysteri ous gorges or past rugged rock formations. www.naturwanderpark.eu

The Circuit du Lac  offers a full experience of the Upper-Sûre Lake in all its splendour. In the middle of the Obersauer Nature Park, you will

discover magnificent views, unique flora and fauna as well as pictur esque small towns around the lake. The Circuit du Lac is divided into two circular walking trails. www.visit-eislek.lu

The Sentier Adrien Ries  National Walking Trail is a 54 km round trip trail around the Nordstad. It symbolically represents the connec tion between the six Nordstad communities. From the valley of the Sauer up to the lookout points of the mountain ridges, the trail leads over meadows, forest and field trails. Numerous castles, including the im posing Colmar-Berg Cas tle, home to the Grand Duke, line the trail. www.nordstad.lu

Light and easy Carefree hiking

Do you want to go hiking but without heavy luggage in tow? Take advantage of the MoveWeCarry  offer. Ideal for staged tours, the service transports luggage from accommodation to accommodation. From the hotel to the next youth hostel, from the camp site to the holi day home: your baggage arrives before you. www.movewecarry.lu

Free on the go Bus and train as

a backup

The hike was more stren uous than you thought? Hop on the free na tionwide transport and return to the starting point. Routes can be viewed and planned via the Mobilitéit transport app. www.mobiliteit.lu

Together on the go

Hiking events throughout the year

Would you like to try hiking in large groups, interacting with others or enjoying a special event, such as a torch walk? The Fédération Luxembourgeoise de marche populaire or ganises such events from various starting points in the country all year round. It is also possible to collect stamps from the IVV Internationaler Volkssportverband (In ternational Folk Sports Association). To partic ipate in the IVV walks, you do not have to be a member of a Luxem bourg IVV association. www.flmp.lu

VISIT THE BRASSERIE NATIONALE:

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE HEART OF A REAL INTERACTIVE SHOW AND DISCOVER THE LUXEMBOURG TERROIR !

Nourished by a heritage that dates back more than 250 years, over centuries the Brasserie Nationale has become the leading brewery of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.

The secret of this success will be revealed to you during a visit to the Brasserie Nationale... an essential stop in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, a place steeped in history while looking towards the future.

Discover a brewery that brings together tradition and innovation.

SMELL, TOUCH AND EVEN TASTE THE RAW MATERIALS

Bofferding, Battin and Funck-Bricher beers are brewed from the best raw materials; they come from pure malt and pure hops. They are 100% natural, without additives or preservatives. Thanks to our knowledgeable guides, you’ll be able to feel and touch the raw materials, and receive detailed explanations along with exclusive stories of our history.

Each ingredient is carefully chosen; right down to the water used. "It’s important to note that water changes the taste of beer. Ours is of impeccable quality," says Georges Lentz, It's noteworthy that the water is drawn at the brewery, from a source found 317 meters underground. An extraordinary purity that you will, of course, be invited to taste directly at the source.

A FUN WAY TO DISCOVER OUR TRADITION

The guided tour of the Brasserie Nationale is a fun way to discover our traditional method. You will start in our brewing room - the heart of production - then discover the new fermentation tanks, pass by the impressive cellar nicknamed "the cathedral", and finish at the bottling and barrelling areas. Throughout the visit, you’ll receive complete explanations about the different stages of the beer-making process.

During this initiation you'll also have the unique opportunity to discover distilled beer as well as young (unfiltered) beer, which can only be found exclusively here!

TRAVEL THROUGH MORE THAN TWO CENTURIES OF HISTORY ADAPTED TO THE MODERN ERA

Nourished by heritage dating back more than two centuries, this impressive family business has one foot deeply rooted in history and the other foot stepping into modern innovation and technology.

During the visit, you’ll be able to see for yourself, on one side, our museum of historical objects and, on the other, large, very modern installations. Thanks to investments made every year, we have built a brewery that is continuously more innovative, cost-effective and eco-friendly.

TASTE OUR KNOW-HOW

The highlight of the visit! The tasting – in addition to those offered during the visit – includes 5 beers from the range offered by the Brasserie Nationale. Starting with a traditional Bofferding Pils, followed by a fresh Bofferding BIO, an excellent Battin Gambrinus, an exclusive FunckBricher and finishing the experience with a seasonal beer. An explosion of flavours accompanied by technical explanations that will allow you to better appreciate each beer.

You will find the "savoir-bière" with a beautiful representation by our guides; a perfectly pulled beer fresh from the tap, served with great technical precision.

An enjoyable and generous tasting experience ends the visit, all presented with good humour and conviviality in a family atmosphere.

We are proud to announce that in 2022, to the delight of beer enthusiasts: DE BRAUATELIER is now part of the visit to the Brasserie and features a brand new tasting room. Here you can discover how to brew your own beer and experience the science and magic of beer brewing, guided by beer experts.

The brewery is also now equipped with a "Microbrewery" type installation for the purpose of developing and experimenting new recipes and offering brewing courses for groups of 10-15 people. You can find all the new activities at www.visitebrasserienationale.com

Don't forget to book before you venture out! We look forward to welcoming you soon for a memorable visit and tasting experience!

BRASSERIE NATIONALE

2 Boulevard J-F Kennedy | L-4930 Bascharage | Tél. : +352 23 63 64 - 217 visite@bofferding.lu | www.visitebrasserienationale.com

Build your dreams

Off the hamster wheel and into a new life.

The daily grind had her firmly in its grasp, but Mia wanted out.

The years of meetings, hierarchies, and deadline stress are over.

The former human resources manager is now a holistic wellbeing coach. She finds inspiration in nature.

Going new ways. For Mia Voss, walks with her beloved dog are an absolute must. Mia has already seen a lot of the countryside on these dog walks with Molly. She knows her way around here in Guttland anyway, she grew up here. And she always finds new, inspiring places. “Mountains give perspective, water gives energy and calm, forests bring strength and clarity of mind.”

The road is bumpy, the grass rises higher and higher, stones scrape the underside of the car. This can’t be the right way! But Google said: “Please turn right in 200 metres!” In the middle of nowhere, branches reaching for the vehicle, doubts arise. Is this the right path? And what is the alternative? This is some thing Mia does intuitively: find alternatives.

Mia stops the Google route plan and relies on her common sense. She turns the car around, deviates and finds another more stable dirt road. Mia Voss, a young woman with a thoughtful look, a slight smile on her lips, is on the road in Guttland with her partner Sarah and dog Molly. The destination: Turelbaach Castle, built by the amateur Luxembourg architect Pol Gilson over decades, and encircled by a lake.

The result: a fantasy-like fairytale castle, with a round tower, partly based on church archi tecture, with a real drawbridge and many small rooms. White washed walls and layered slate alternate, statuettes line the scenery like chess pieces, a mag nificent semi-circular terrace with climbing vines ends above gentle steps in the pond, and all this is reflected in the water where fat trout swim. Pol Gilson created the lake by damming a small stream. Pol worked on his dream until his death in 2007. He left behind a building that is now even listed because it is so unique. Many festivals have been held here, films were even shot there. What will happen

to the castle in the near future is currently being discussed. In any case, it is and remains a dream turned to stone.

Everything in balance!

In a way, this is Mia’s story. A new start on unknown terrain, an unu sual building constructed on the basis of the past. Creating some thing that perhaps not everyone would build. To fulfil a dream. The little castle in Guttland is to Pol Gilson from Luxembourg,

what The Holistic Corner is to Mia Voss. Founded by the native of Denmark and former human resources manager, the business is a space offering holistic health services for people who want to change something in their lives –and bodies! Off of the hamster wheel and into healing nutrition, yoga, massage, and more. The magic word is balance. And for that you need to overcome your inner obstacles, and develop new habits.

“Nature and the precious people around me help me a lot. It started

The right place at the right time can help sort out your thoughts. Can bring calm and broaden horizons. And it can of course then also be the right place for yoga. Mia used to do boxing training and play handball. Now she doesn’t need any opponents if she wants to train her body.

Turelbaach Castle was constructed on a marshy meadow between 1964 and 2007 by Luxembourger Pol Gilson. The passionate amateur architect put all his ideas and love into this dream: to have his own castle on an island. What will happen to the castle – now a listed building – in the near future is currently under discussion.

It is not only from a bird’s eye view that one quickly realises: this is the work of a great dreamer. At Turelbaach Castle there is a three-kilometre circular walk, on which the marvellous building itself is of course the highlight.

You enter the grounds of the “Sonnebierg” nature reserve near Walferdange through wooden gates, just like in the mountain pastures, and a holiday feeling immediately sets in.

with yoga which I first came to through Sarah, but I also want to learn other skills, such as reflex ology, like my mother does,” Mia says, petting Molly. For Mia, walks with her beloved pet are an absolute must. Through these dog walks, Mia has already seen a lot of the country. She knows her way around Guttland anyway, she grew up here. And she always finds new, inspiring places here. “Mountains give perspective, water gives energy and calm, forests bring strength and clarity of mind,” says Mia.

When Mia, Sarah and Molly arrive at the castle, quacking ducks fly over the water. Time seems to stand still. Labradoodle Molly sniffs at the stones by the bridge. Have there been other dogs here? Surely. The view over the water brings peace and quiet. Until Molly barks. “Let’s go, girls! I want to do a real dog walk!”

Primal, adventurous

The Guttland.Trails are just right for this. They have been mapped as short, enjoyable circular hiking trails and can all be discovered, for example, via the Outdoorac tive app. One of these trails is the Fuussepad. The sun shines gently through the light canopy of the mixed forest, then, as we pass beyond a bend, the path is trans formed by rugged rocks and fallen tree trunks, primal, adventurous. “We love the peace and quiet here on the Guttland.Trails, they are less frequented than, for example, many sections of the Mullerthal Trail,” says Mia. The trio have

been here several times. The dog enjoys the freedom and the many scents of the forest. Mushrooms line the path, the undergrowth rustles. Deer also seem to feel at home here. They will certainly visit the other Guttland trails, the Siwe Brécke-Wee and the Mamer leeën-Wee, again in the next few weeks.

Out of the forest and up onto a small hill: the three of them head to the Sonnebierg near

Mia is pictured with her team Sarah and Molly on the Fuussepad trail. Untouched forests and meadows, remote rock formations, mysterious streams, small lakes and beautiful views –the Guttland.Trails are perfect for short enjoyable hikes.

Sandrine, the charismatic owner of Les Paniers de Sandrine in Munsbach, is happy to give advice. And she is also living her dream. No frills, just good things. Nevertheless, there is an immense variety, for example, there are 50 different types of tomatoes, all grown here in her garden.

Walferdange. As the name Sunhill suggests: here the sun warms people, animals and plants unhindered.

Saluting on the sunhill

A multitude of fruit trees entices you to reach for them, but watch out: this is a nature reserve. Don’t take any fruit from the trees, don’t pick any autumn crocus from under the trees, no matter how tempting the delicate lilac blossoms are in the sun. The almost perfect lawn is tended by industrious sheep, as evidenced by the small, dark pellets everywhere.

Nevertheless, Mia rolls out her yoga mat under a tree. The sun saluta tion absolutely fits here. After a few asanas, during which the young woman seems to be completely at one with herself, Mia rolls the mat back up with a smile. That was a good moment.

A holistic approach to wellbeing naturally includes appropriate nu trition. She’s passionate about cook ing, loves whole foods, preparing colourful dishes from scratch and experimenting with new recipes. It’s not about restrictions or extremes but rather about sustainable long term health choices. The key word is balance and Mia embraces it whole heartedly. In addition, there is a lot of curiosity about herbs and broths, also from traditional Chinese medi cine, which Mia also includes. None of this is witchcraft; in fact, it’s the obvious goodness that Mia embrac es quite naturally here too.

Mindful shopping

The fruit and vegetables that she and Sarah prepare and eat at home often come from Les Paniers de Sandrine in Munsbach. When you arrive, you think you are in the middle of a busy farm. Trucks whirl up dust, a large hall awaits visitors. And inside? Salads, herbs, pump kins, cucumbers, but also oils, flour and many other products are appe tisingly arranged in long rows. Old, dark cupboards behind the counter contrast with the industrial charm of the hall. It smells good, and the people selecting potatoes, apples or nuts here look content. In between, boss Sandrine scurries around.

“It just feels right to buy such products. You know where it comes from,” says Mia as she puts her wal let in the basket. Molly yawns and lies down on the floor. She is tired. But don’t worry: the way home will be easy for her mistress. The time of bumpy dirt roads is over, at least for today.

A holistic approach to health and wellbeing naturally includes proper nutrition. Mia is passionate about cooking, loves whole foods, preparing colourful dishes from scratch and experimenting with new recipes. It’s not about restrictions or extremes but rather about sustainable long term health choices. The key word is balance and Mia embraces it wholeheartedly.

Water activities

Relax and refresh Go with the flow

From the beach in Lultzhausen, visitors to the Naturpark Öew ersauer reservoir can practise a range of water sports. The youth hostel  rents out kayaks, canoes and and standup paddle boards. You can paddle alone or on a guided tour and explore the dramatic scenery which is reminiscent of the Norwegian fjords! www.youthhostels.lu

The National Youth Ser vice Water Sports Centre  in Lultzhausen offers various activities for groups. These include sailing trips, rafting, stand-up paddle board and diving. www.erliewen.snj.lu/ lultzhausen

There is also a diving school  on the banks of the reservoir. Explore underwater life and be prepared for some surprises waiting at the bottom of the lake. In ad dition, the school offers other activities, such as preparation for the boat ing licence. www.divewinns.com

From April 30 to Octo ber 31, Rosport’s lake is open for water skiing and banana boat rides. These activities are organised by Le Dauphin water ski school. www.waasserskirouspert.com

Set out on a guided tour by solar boat  to dis cover the largest drink ing water reservoir in the north of the country! Visitors can learn about the fauna and flora in and around the Upper Sûre Lake, as well as the history of the lake and region and about the steps being taken to keep the water pure. www.naturpark-sure.lu

Spanning a surface of 30 hectares, the artifi cial lake in Echternach  offers pedalo rides. Paddle boats can be rented on the eastern shore of the lake, on the island near the bistro De Grénge Schapp. During the high season, rental is possible every weekend and on request during the week or for groups. From the summer of 2023, swimming enthu siasts will be allowed to bathe in the lake and take advantage of other activities organised by the leisure and recreation centre. The programme includes festivals and concerts. www.degrengeschapp.com

In the rocky Mullerthal region, the Sûre River offers perfect condi tions for kayak and canoe trips. Boats can be rented from Outdoor Freizeit. The region also has a canoeing route suitable for beginners, young sailors, canoe ists and nature lovers, couples and groups. This course is located be tween Wallendorf-Pont and Bollendorf. Boats are available to rent from Ronn's Bikes, Kay aks & Kanu. www.outdoorfreizeit.lu www.kanuverleih aufdersauer.lu

There are two artifi cial lakes in the im mediate vicinity of Weiswampach  . The upper lake is reserved for fishing, while the lower lake is dedicated to swimming, various water sports and pedal boats. www.visit-eislek.lu

Due to its balmy tem perature and the width of the river, the Moselle offers an ideal environ ment for water sports enthusiasts, but also for beginners looking for an adrenaline rush on the water. Water skiing and wakeboarding  are among the most popular activities. Among the main clubs and sports providers are Ski Nautique de Grevenmacher

Aqua Ski Ahn-Machtum, Sports Mosellans Ehnen and Club Nautique de Luxembourg BechKleinmacher. www.wake-sng.com www.aquaski.lu www.ehnenbeach.lu www.cnlwaterski.lu

The port of Schwebsange is the only marina on the Luxembourg Moselle. It is built in such a way that it can be adapted when the Moselle floods and can, therefore, offer places to winter boats in the harbour. www.mycl.lu

Explore the Moselle region around Remich on board an electric boat from Wateradventures, which does not require a special licence. For those requir ing a qualified captain, boats can be rented with skippers. Adrenaline fans will love the Malibu Speed Boat with its 450 horse power – available for rent with a professional cap tain. Other water activities are also available. www.wateradventures.lu

Outdoor swimming Jump in the deep end!

Outdoor pools offer the perfect environment for sporty swimmers.

Camping de Rosport has an outdoor pool with a paddling pool for little ones. www.camping-rosport.lu

The Redange-sur-At tert swimming pool  , surrounded by unspoilt nature, has a wave pool, guaranteeing fun for all. www.reidener-schwemm.lu

Spanning more than 10,000 m², Aquasud Differdange  guaran tees relaxation and and fun. Recharge your batteries at this excep tional aquatic complex, which also has outdoor pools. www.vert-marine.com/ aquasud

Take a dip at Aqua Park Beaufort  ! Campsite customers get free entry to the pool, which has a 50-metre adventure slide, fountains, water jets and jacuzzi. www.visitbeaufort.lu

Relax into the water and wellness world of AquaNat'Our  in the north of the country. The complex boasts 3,500 m² dedicated entirely to water activities. Visitors can do sports, rest and relax. From the paddling pool to the sauna area, to the fitness and health centre, there is plenty to choose from. www.aquanatour.lu

LOOKING FOR A BREAK?

In Remich, a completely renovated state-ofthe-art swimming pool complex with an Olym pic-size sports pool and a spacious children's play pool and area offers visitors plenty of recrea tional fun. www.visitremich.lu

In Grevenmacher, right next to the campsite, a heated outdoor pool with long lanes also at tracts sporty swimmers. www.grevenmacher.lu

The Escher swimming pool  is equipped with a paddling pool and a and a relaxation area, while the outdoor pool with massage benches is accessible all year round. https://lesbainsduparc.esch.lu

Splash around in the open air at Dudelange’s outdoor pool. It boasts heated pools, a slide, a children's area and a large lawn for sunbath ers. www.dudelange.lu

In spring and summer, the lakes of Remerschen  in the Moselle region attract hundreds of swimmers and sunbath ers. Visitors can play or swim in the lake, sun bathe and take walks on the 25-hectare site. There is a small entry fee to access the bathing area www.visitmoselle.lu

With its building in the shape of a flying saucer, Les Thermes  attracts many a swimming fan to Strassen. In addition to water fun inside and out, the site has a com prehensive spa area. www.lesthermes.net

The Diekirch swimming pool has an indoor pool with a movable floor. In summer, the seaside comes to landlocked Luxembourg as it hosts Diekirch Plage (Diekirch beach). In addition to bathing in the pool, vis itors can play beach vol leyball, football or just have fun in the children's playground, all free of charge during the special summer event. Drinks, snacks and ice cream are all sold on-site. www.diekirch.lu

Visitors to Syrdall pool in Niederanven will be greeted with a varied and entertaining water world, including an out door pool open all year round, jacuzzis as well as a separate spa area. www.syrdall-schwemm.lu

Äddi ciao tipptopp

Mike McQuaide, “An American in Luxembourg”, is an enthusiastic ambassador for beautiful places and interesting encounters, and prefers to travel on two wheels.

When he’s not writing a book, he documents his experiences on YouTube, Instagram and the like.

When you get to know him, you meet a person who openly cycles through the country with an almost childlike, cheerful gaze and collects one thing above all: positive encounters.

Mike McQuaide, born in New Jersey and now 61 years old, arrived in Luxembourg in 2013. Since then this self-exiled American has become an enthusiastic Luxembourg ambassador. His favourite thing to do is to get on his bike. That way he can see more of the country.

Rows of theatre seats made of stone form a semi-circle.

In the centre, a man is visible only as a dark silhouette in the backlight of the early morning, surrounded by the first autumn fog. He stands in a heroic pose, his hand raised, the skull firmly in his grip and gaze. “To be or not to be; that is the question here: whether nobler in mind to suffer the slings and arrows of furious fortune, or ...”

Hang on a minute! It can’t be! That’s not Shakespeare’s Hamlet, it’s Mike McQuaide. And the expatriate American is not hold ing a skull in his hand, but his smartphone. He is making one of his well-known and muchloved selfie videos. “Moien! What’s up? Ech sinn de Mike!”

He shoots the short film early in the morning from the Roman amphitheatre in Dalheim.

A vlogger through passion

Mike McQuaide has lived in Luxembourg since 2013. His wife had a job offer in the Grand Duchy at the time, so the McQuaide family packed their bags and moved from Seattle. Mike, who was a journalist in the USA for many years, worked as an English teacher, but also continued to write articles. In them, he processes his new life in Luxembourg. Various passions come together for him: sport and especially cycling; getting to know the country and its people; and telling entertain ing stories. “An American in Luxembourg” was born.

These experiences were first compiled in a book, which was published in 2017 and received an audience award in 2018. And of course in the form of short, funny videos “on the road”, which now have a large following at home and abroad. The mobile phone is always there as a camera when Mike gets on his bike and rides off to discover Luxembourg.

He doesn’t own a car, also for the sake of the environment. From his home in the capital, he prefers to use the country’s free public transport and his bike. Today, on this sunny autumn day, when the first leaves have already changed colour, Mike is riding his bike through the Moselle region. The route follows – coincidentally –to a large extent the Roman Road, which leads from Dalheim via Remerschen, Wellenstein, Grevenmacher and Mertert to Echternach.

After the brief intermezzo in the theatre, Mike swings himself onto his black carbon bike in the di rection of Mondorf-les-Bains. You can see immediately that he enjoys cycling. He smiles, makes jokes, greets other cyclists. The road gets steeper, and Mike lifts himself out of the saddle, the frame swing ing energetically back and forth. Suddenly, we are struck by the full Schengen, the small village at the border of three countries, is nothing less than the birth place of freedom of travel within Europe. Opposite the floating Tourist Info point, which was designed by architect François Valentiny, is a huge star-shaped sculpture covered in noble rust. Lovers can attach their engraved locks here. “I recently put one up too, hang on, let me look for it!” says Mike.

Dalheim is the most important archaeological site of the Roman period in the Grand Duchy. It was an important stopover on the Via Agrippa, the great Roman road from the Mediterranean to the Rhine. At that time, the amphitheatre could seat up to 3,500 spectators.

In the former Roman town of Dalheim, called Ricciacus around the second century, there are many reminders of antiquity. 120 spectators can easily fit on the original stone seating of the amphitheatre. The first seats, right at the front, even have armrests for high authorities; just the right place for Mike.

”D’Maus Ketti” (also D’Maus Kätti) is the best-known work by the Luxembourg writer Auguste Liesch. The story, told in verse, is based on a fable by the famous Greek poet Aesop about the city mouse and field mouse. The fountain in Mondorfles-Bains is a tribute to them. Mike meets the well-known cellist André Mergenthaler here by chance.

impact of the beautiful landscape: fog between the hills and trees. It is dreamlike.

In Mondorf-les-Bains, Mike steers his bike towards the park and dis mounts. The only spa town in the country has a large thermal bath. Inside: a wellness oasis with sauna, spa, fitness and many treatments. The park around it is ideal for tak ing a stroll, having a break – and meeting people. Everyone meets in Mondorf: politicians, actors and

other prominent Luxembourgers are out and about here. “Hey, isn’t that André Mergenthaler over there?” Behind the fountain depicting a scene from the Luxem bourg fable “D’Maus Kätti”, a slen der man with a bald head, glasses, sports bag, black jacket and sweat pants saunters by. Yes, it’s him! The cellist from the south of the country is at home in various mu sical genres – “everything except classical”. “Hi, how are you?” asks Mike, grinning broadly. André is in a good mood. He has just done some light fitness exercises to bal ance out his cellist’s posture. He comes here twice a week. André is also a bike fan, “I’m like a little boy”, he says; at home he has lots of vintage bikes and a new gravel bike. The two talk shop for a while about their bikes. “Bikes are the common language,” says Mike, and André nods. Like music.

Little village, well-known

We continue on to the village of Schengen. It was here that the Schengen agreement was signed, making it easier for people to cross borders in the EU. A huge star-shaped sculpture covered in noble rust stands on the prome nade, where lovers have attached engraved padlocks. You can feel his enthusiasm as Mike searches for his padlock. “There! Look: Äddi ciao tipptopp! My sign-off at the end of my videos!” he says, turning the padlock in his hand. “Have you seen the columns with the nations? I think it’s cool how figuratively the countries are depicted. And that you can also read the original names of the countries.”

“Munneref” is the Luxembourgish name for the spa town of Mondorfles-Bains. Normally, the style at Luxembourg’s only thermal spa is dignified-classic, but this construction site wall opposite the fountain at the entrance breaks the ’80s charm.

In the east of the country stretches the Moselle, called “d’Musel” by Luxembourgers. Along the 42 km over which the river flows from Schengen to Wasserbillig, the Moselle has created a hilly landscape interspersed with limestone cliffs, making it ideal for viticulture. The Celts, the Gauls and later the Romans all cultivated wine here!

Where have I landed? In a medieval village? It almost gives that impression. The wine village of Wellenstein charms with its secret little nooks and crannies, picturesque corners and no fewer than five archways in a row.

The next moment a blonde woman approaches him, beaming. “It’s really you, isn’t it? Mike McQuaide. I love your videos!” Tania is around 50 and a big bike fan. Her family owned a bicycle shop for years. And she knows the famous Luxem bourg racing cyclists, the Schleck brothers, personally. “I’ve met them too!” says Mike. “Mondorf is, after all, their hometown. I once stood in front of a huge photo of Fränk Schleck and imitated the winning pose for fun and posted it. And you know what? Fränk saw it on social media and asked me if I wanted

Because of the pandemic, the Bentz-Seil fruit and vegetable shop no longer sells at the country markets, but at home in Stadtbredimus. This has not harmed business and there is also a nice atmosphere with good advice. After all, the family has been in the business for four generations.

to go cycling with him. And that’s what we did! So cool!”

From Schengen, it’s just a short pedal to the Markusberg viewpoint above the village. “I love it. In Schengen you can experience the significance of Europe on the one hand, and on the other hand it’s a picturesque little wine village. The Biodiversum nature reserve in Remerschen is also great, and not far away at all.”

But Mike is not stopping there today. Instead, he continues on to Wellenstein, a scenic village which charms with its secret little nooks and crannies. Behind the wroughtiron gate near a rural tourism apartment, an original passageway opens up, with no fewer than five stone archways in a row.

Someone is speaking English with an American accent?! The next fans to recognise Mike are Americans themselves! Justin is looking for a

flat, together with his Luxembour gish mother-in-law. He wants to make Luxembourg his home. Blake from California is a professional basketball player and has been liv ing in Wellenstein for a few months. Mike takes selfies. He is in a good mood and then becomes pensive. His son is no older than the two young men, he says: “At the end of the week, my wife and I are flying to the USA. We’re going to visit our son in California. I’m looking forward to it. We haven’t seen him for a long time,” Mike says. The son, who came to Luxembourg as a teen ager and grew up there, has not yet found a place to settle. He wavers between Luxembourg and America. Not so for Mike: “I know the USA well enough. My place is here now.”

A train to go back home

Over gently winding roads, we then travel via Greiveldange to Greven macher, where it gets busier. The Moselle shows its other side: cargo shipping. Containers and open goods are transported. Gravel, scrap metal, food and more find their way to their recipients via the river. At the lock, the last attraction of the day awaits, the sawn-off hull of a con tainer ship that has been converted into a lookout point.

Mike climbs onto the bow and lets his gaze wander over the lock and the Moselle. But then he looks at his watch. “Oh, my train is leaving Wasserbillig soon! I have to go!” Quick as lightning, he is down at the promenade and swings onto his bike. Of course, not without his favourite Luxembourgish words: “Äddi ciao tipptopp!”

Directly on the Moselle in Grevenmacher, opposite the lock, you can find the sawn-off bow of an old container ship. What is transported on the Moselle? How does shipping work? If you are interested, you will find the answers here.

For every type of bike Discover diverse landscapes

With around 600 kilo metres of bike paths and 700 kilometres of moun tain bike tracks (the num ber is continuously rising), Luxembourg is a paradise for cyclists. Experience the capital on two wheels, race along the Moselle surrounded by vineyards, ride through the forest and between rocks in the Mullerthal, along lush meadows in the Guttland or explore the fascinating Land of the Red Rocks on a mountain bike. Alterna tively, take on the winding roads in Éislek. In high season, the regional tourist offices offer guided tours, inviting you to explore the country by bike.

Bike paths

Some highlights

Luxembourg's cycle paths offer an unforgettable experience and a variety of routes. Try new ones every time!

The Vennbahn , which has won numerous international awards, is

undoubtedly one of the most beautiful routes in the Grand Duchy. It crosses no less than three countries – Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg – and is considered to be one of the longest former railway paths in Europe. From Reuland in Belgium, through the bat tunnel to Troisvierges in Luxem bourg. www.vennbahn.eu

A European cycle path which partially runs through Luxembourg is also the Via Romea Francigena aka EuroVelo 5  . Originally a pilgrim age trail from England to Rome, the trail passes through seven countries, including 107 kilometres through the Grand Duchy. The route follows na tional bike paths from the Belgian border to the capital and then on to the German-French border in Schengen, the symbolic heart of Europe and home of the European Museum. www.eurovelo.com

The 23 national cycle paths (CPs) criss-cross the coun try and take the cyclist to interesting places, such as the old railway tunnels in Besch. These CPs are often dedicated to specific themes. For example, PC6 crosses three cantons, PC8 runs through the Red Lands, PC3 runs along three rivers, etc. www.visitluxembourg.com

Want to combine fun on two wheels with the enjoyment of regional specialties and interesting facts about them? Try the thematic trails such as Velo Vinum and Velo Pomarium  through vineyards and orchards or limitless cycling: Subroute Pleasure Panorama. In the Mullerthal, the Tudor Tour invites you to discover the country’s electricity production. www.visitluxembourg.com

There are various trails for mountain bikers, such as the RedRock MTB Trails  . These six trails, cov ering 167 kilometres, take mountain bikers through the Red Rocks to discov er the former open-cast mines that are now nature reserves. www.visitminett.lu

Bike days Events for cycling fans

A very special bike event in Luxembourg since 2020, the Vëlosummer  invites you to dis cover the country on two wheels. During the summer holidays, certain roads through beautiful landscapes are closed to regular traffic and become cycle paths. www.velosummer.lu

Alles op de Vëlo, a popular family cycling day in sum-

Park Mersch

mer, takes place between Mamer and Mersch and is organised by the Mouvement Ecologique in collaboration with certain municipalities and ProVelo.lu. A similar cycling day is also held in September between Strassen and Bertrange. www.meco.lu

In a more sporting atmosphere, various bike races are organised in the country, notably the Schleck Gran Fondo  and La Charly Gaul races are reminiscent of famed Luxembourg racers. To the east, the Mill Man Trail challenges cyclists. In the Land of the Red Rocks, you can sweat through the Red Rock Challenge  on Moun tain Bike Day and the X-Duathlon . The 24-hour Wëntger challenges you to stay on your bike for 24 hours. And the Skoda Tour de Luxembourg crosses the entire Grand Duchy. www.mullerthalcycling.com www.schleck-x-perience.com www.lacharlygaul.lu www.rr-challenge.lu www.24hwentger.lu www.skodatour.lu

Special services

Help with your bike

Cyclists appreciate the bed+bike-label, which highlights particularly

bike-friendly accommo dation. Bike room, repair services and more make your stay pleasant and useful. www.bedandbike.lu

No bike of your own? Lux embourg offers many bike rental  possibilities. The capital has vel'OH! stations with robust bicycles for city use. In the countryside and in the other cities of the Grand Duchy, Rent A Bike and Bikestation offer various types of bikes. www.myveloh.lu www.rentabike.lu www.bikestation.lu

Want to cycle without carrying your belongings? You can do that with the MoveWeCarry luggage transport service. Back packs and the like are transported from accom modation to accommo dation, and arrive before you do. www.movewecarry.lu

Tired of pedalling? Board the next bus or train with your bike No need to buy a ticket, as public trans port in Luxembourg is free. All timetables and updates are available via the Mobilitéit application. www.mobiliteit.lu

The large community of the ProVëlo.lu initiative provides cycling informa tion and assistance. www.provelo.lu

The city, her stage

For theatre director Anne Simon, all the world is a stage. Whether she is inside or outside, everyone is an actor and everyday objects become props. The ideas for her productions come to her in flashes of inspiration, an inspiration which she feeds on her many walks through Luxembourg City.

The city is her territory. Here, theatre director Anne Simon chases after the most diverse impressions. “Stories everywhere! I love it –and I can’t stop thinking about it either: people leave traces in all kinds of places. And they tell stories.”

We meet Anne Simon on the ter race of café-bar Interview for an interview. We want to meet her and (re)see the city with her. The café has set out bistro tables and on one of the chairs sits the art ist, leaning forwards, a cigarette smouldering between her fingers. Her slender legs are crossed and she fixes her gaze on something in the distance. The posture reminds me of a hawk about to strike, seizing the object of desire in a few seconds. She is lost in her thoughts. But on what? She is definitely not looking for food, as the bird of prey would be. And she doesn’t need it. A cappuccino steams on the table in front of her, with a biscuit. No, she’s tracking down some thing else. She is searching for situations, people, actions, art and everyday things that interest and inspire her. She absorbs and she exhales ideas.

Enigmatic paths

It’s fun to listen to Anne Simon talk. And to see how engaged she is in her storytelling: shining eyes, her hands dance. Her clothing style is a typical theatre combination of striped trouser suit coupled with a modish pur ple-pink three-striped jogging jacket. 50s style sunglasses rest on her blonde hair. Fashion consciousness paired with un derstatement. A pink notebook lies on the table in front of her. It’s probably always with her. Ideas must be caught and pinned down.

“Stickers!” She almost shouts with pleasure, “Stickers, stuck on lampposts and on distribution

boxes. Awesome. I could track them down for hours. Who put that one there? And why? What kind of person was it? I think of the kind of person who places stickers on lampposts. What’s the story? Then I go on a search. The next sticker with the same design is often not far away. And so a stranger leads me on a mysterious path through the city.”

On her scavenger hunts through the city, Anne keeps her eyes open. What strikes her is that public space offers so much yet is used so little, especially in the city. People live in boxes, sit in one box to get to another box to work. Then they go back into the small box to return to the first box. They then sit – admittedly – in the garden, free of strangers. That’s not Anne’s thing. She has to get out into the city, into the parks and play grounds where those who don’t have gardens meet and where you

hear many languages being spoken. What a Babylonian babble of voic es. People live, laugh and love here. They barbecue, argue, reconcile. Anne Simon, the story collector, is among them. She likes to come here with her young son. And, from time to time, when he comes, he likes to dress in a tutu. People are happy about that. He can just be here, dancing among the trees, before going back to being a dig ger operator again.

Where audience members usually take their seats on the red velvet chairs, a table is built on the backrests in the final row of the Théâtre des Capucins. The table supports monitors, cables and equipment with sliders. Anne stands with the lighting technicians and is fascinated by their skill.

It is extremely quiet in the small Théâtre des Capucins. Pleasant. Almost reverent. Anne Simon, however, cannot help but break this silence. She asks questions, scurries between the chairs. Disappears behind a curtain, only to reappear in the cone of light. Moves to a seat and whispers in theatre-speak with the technicians. Magic at work.

Located in the heart of the capital, the Théâtre des Capucins is one of the witnesses of Luxembourg City ’s turbulent history. It offers a space for contemporary dramatic creation and emerging talent.

Bonne Nouvelle Bar’s Instagram page says: “a temporary wine bar experience by Satori Brewing”. A wine bar brought to life by a brew ery. It’s exactly this kind of charming aberration that you have to find when you roam the city with Anne Simon. She sometimes sits down at a table with total strangers. You see her gesturing, laughing, drawing on a cigarette. Those who don’t know her quickly get to know her.

“We don’t stop playing be cause we grow old – we grow old because we stop playing.” George Bernard Shaw’s saying is the motto on Anne’s website. She likes people who dare to do something, who experiment and approach things in a playful way. Like the three guys from the Satori brewery, for example. Davide, Joseph and Mathias have just founded a small brewery and are already taking the next step: they have been awarded a

contract by the City of Luxem bourg and are now allowed to run a pop-up bar in the former Charly’s Gare bus stop for a few months. The young men, architecture and economics students, are kept on their toes, heaving gas bottles out of their transport vehicle – an original Piaggio Ape – and carrying them into the kiosk-like glass bar. In addition to the in-house beer, local wines are available here. The menu is inspired by the bar culture of Barcelona or Paris.

Theatrical air

“Let’s go to the theatre!” Not to a performance. No, onto the stage, into a working situation. We enter the small Théâtre des Capucins. Technicians are set ting up and programming the lighting for a new production. Sacred silence. A stage is some thing special. Sounds of the city do not penetrate this space. No daylight. It is exceptionally quiet. Pleasant. Outside again, we are overwhelmed by the loudness of the city. Flagpoles stand in front of the theatre. Children hoot gleefully and climb the iron poles. They don’t pay attention to how many stickers are stuck on them.

In the evening we meet Anne Simon again for an appoint ment on the Corniche, a path that runs along the high ram parts above the Alzette valley. It is considered “the most beautiful balcony in Europe”. In the darkness, the valley at the bottom seems further away than usual. The old craftsmen’s

The Reduit Lambert is part of a 17th century fortification in Luxembourg’s city park.

Demilitarisation works from 1868-1874 razed the entire fort.

Parts were only rediscovered in 2001 during work on a multi-storey car park.

With somewhat jerky movements, Charlie Chaplin fidgets across the open-air cinema screen directly in front of the Grand Ducal Palace. The place is packed. Those who arrived on time sit on chairs in the first row in front of the palace. Others stand, stroll, chat – after all, it’s a silent film.

Free and outside: the City Open Air Cinema, presented by the municipal Cinémathèque, takes place on the forecourt of the Grand Ducal Palace in the city centre.

On the ramparts above the Alzette valley runs the Corniche, described as “the most beautiful balcony in Europe”. The trendy bar-club De Gudde Wëllen has opened a beer garden for when the weather is good, called De Gudde Weather.

houses with their illuminated windows look like a toy village. In the distance, the skyscrapers in Kirchberg glow.

The beer garden of De Gudde Weather (the good weather) of fers a captivating view of the city lights and mixed crowd. Bankers and musicians meet. People in suits sit beside artists. Tables and chairs are also a wild mix, as if to suggest: “All are welcome. We have seating for everyone.”

After trying cocktails (they are good), we wander around the city centre, letting ourselves drift and following the signs. Anne Simon’s dog trots faithfully by her side. Sometimes he decides which way we go. We end up in an alleyway lit by lanterns. “It re minds me of the Lampion Night in Wiltz,” the director enthuses, “it’s a magical festival. The whole town is decorated with large but delicate works of paper art that are lit up at night and transform the town.”

Islands in the city

Urban outdoors: being outside in the city. Wandering through cities. But always seeking out islands to find peace and quiet. A hill in the Kirchberg business dis trict. The sculpture by Bert Theis in the Edith Klein inner-city park, a kind of hunter’s hide which invites you to climb up. The castle at her favourite play ground near her home in Belair. As we wander, we are treated to an unexpected view of the Old Fortress. All islands in the city.

The balmy summer night air carries voices from the distance, scattered laughter and murmurs. Something is happening that we know nothing about. The murmuring grows louder and, as we turn a corner, we are greet ed with Charlie Chaplin’s face on the open-air cinema screen directly in front of the Grand Ducal Palace. A summer night in the capital. We set off without a destination or a plan, and yet we have arrived.

Urban outdoors. Being outside – in the urban jungle, so to speak, that’s Anne’s thing. Always on the lookout for situations, people, actions, art objects and everyday objects that interest and inspire her.

life

Public parks Open to all around the city

The Kinnekswiss  park is an oasis in the heart of the city centre. Its many trees offer welcome shade in the summer, and it boasts a children’s playground with a giant pirate ship where little sailors can embark on an imaginary journey sailing the seas and oceans of the world. www.luxembourg-city.com

Located in the heart of the business district and surrounded by modern buildings, Kirchberg’s public park  is surpris ingly large. Its greenery invites you to relax during a stroll, play a game of pétanque or enjoy a picnic al fresco. Curious visitors will find infor mation panels about its varied flora. https://fondskirchberg. public.lu/en.html

The Dräi Eechelen park  is a delight for history lovers. Located in the mu seum grounds, it is within the restored and par tially reconstructed Fort Thüngen. Visitors can learn about Luxembourg’s past as a fortified city and

enjoy breathtaking views of the capital. www.m3e.public.lu

Tony Neuman Park  is located in Limpertsberg. With its giant redwoods, beautiful flowers and plant tunnel, it is like a secret garden. Art lovers will appreciate the many sculptures by Luxembourg artists which are installed in the four corners of the park. www.luxembourg-city.com

Located a few steps from the city centre, Merl Park  is without a doubt the preferred place to relax for families with children. Its large playground, many swings, climbing tower and multifunction al pool will entertain the little ones, while adults can draw energy from gazing at the peaceful pond. There is also a café-restaurant. www.vdl.lu www.spillplaz.lu

Theme parks Cultural events in the open air

The Wenzel Circuit  self-guided walk ing tour takes visitors through the 1,000-year history of Luxembourg City. It passes through the oldest parts of the capital, and its surviving fortifica

tions, all of which have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994. The tour takes in the Bock rock, the castle bridge and the panoramic path of the Corniche.

The Vauban Circuit  is named after famous French engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban (1633-1707) who transformed the city of Luxembourg into one of the most powerful fortresses in Europe, earning it the name the "Gibraltar of the North".

The Vauban Circuit is a Cultural Route of the Council of Europe.

During the Walk the Art  tour, experienced guides show visitors works of art special ly created for public spaces. Here you will not find monuments com memorating individuals or events, only works of art in the urban land scape. www.luxembourg-city.com

In the south of the country, the vast and free open-air museum of Fond-de-Gras  takes visitors on a journey of discovery through the history of the steel industry in an almost authentic environment. In summer, the Train 1900 with its steam loco motive travels through

© LFTA. SCHÖSSER

the Minett region. A mining train and many other attractions make Fond-deGras a popular destination for day trips. www.minettpark.lu

Clervaux, the city of images  in the north of the country, is a visual treat. New images of artists are regularly installed in the area surrounding its castle, making it the perfect place for a stroll between the works of art. www.clervauximage.lu

The gardens of Ansembourg Castle  in the Guttland region are the ideal destination for dreamers. Stroll among the sculptures and trees, on the terraces or get lost in the maze, while enjoying a unique view of this Renaissance castle. www.gcansembourg.eu

Skateparks

Get your skates on

In the Skatepark Péitruss  , the city of Luxembourg has created a special place, which does more than just attract skateboarders. Located in Rue Quirin, in the Pétrusse valley, the park is designed to blend in with the natural and historical setting and is embedded in the remains of the old fortifications. www.vdl.lu

The Philharmonie, the most famous skateboard spot in Luxembourg, has been featured in many media for board sports. It is an open space where everyone is welcome. (1, Place de l'Europe)

With its floor, ledges and blocks, the Alima school campus is another mecca for skateboarding. (Lycée Aline Mayrisch, 30, Boulevard Pierre Dupong)

Skateplaza Belval: Modern, extensive and located in the heart of the Minett region, the stores and cafés of this trendy new neighbourhood are only a few skateboard rides away. (100, Avenue du Blues, Esch/Belval)

Red Rock Skatepark: Located near Salle Polyvalente, this skatepark has no official closing hours. In summer, it is even lit until 10 pm. (6, Chemin de Bergem, Schifflange)

Skatepark "Schmelz" Dudelange: The skatepark and the "Dirtline" attract many visitors during the summer months. (Route de Thionville, Dudelange)

Skatepark Kaul: This beautiful and modern skatepark is located in the north of the country, in the heart of Kaul Campsite’s Activity Park. (60, Campingstrooss, Wiltz)

Fun outdoors

Amusement parks Beautiful leisure time outside

The Bettembourg Parc Merveilleux  is a lei sure park for the whole family. There are superb play facilities, a restau rant, a magical retro fairy tale village, where generations of children have experienced their favourite fairy tales live. It is also a wildlife park, where more than 200 animal species from all five continents can be visited. www.parc-merveilleux.lu

The regional hiking trail Minett Trail have its start and finish points in front of the park’s entrance. The place is also the perfect stop for an unusual overnight stay: in the small castle gate, an unusual Kabais chen  hiking lodge has been created. Ideal for families, but guests without small children can also spend a won derful night here. Other architectural gems can be found in the 11 municipalities that have joined forces as part of Esch2022. www.minetttrail.lu/en/ the-kabaisercher

Parc Le'h Adventures

Dudelange consists of over 100 different sta tions spread over seven trails with suspension bridges, zip lines, "mon keytrees", a bambini trail and a teambuilding trail. www.aventure.lu

The Steinfort Adven ture climbing course offers thrills and adren aline at high altitudes. Climb through the trees, slide down ropes and experience the fun and action in the air. www.steinfort-adventure.lu

In Vianden, the coun try's only chairlift also takes you to the high peaks. Not for skiing, but to Vianden Castle  , today one of the most important archi tectural monuments in Europe. On the way there, you will enjoy a fantastic view, and much more once you reach the top. Whether you want to visit the castle or go for a hike: the chairlift is always the starting point for a great leisure expe rience in this Ardennes town. www.visit-vianden.lu

The Picnickers

Every week they explore another gem in their home country: Luxembourgers Ralph Kass and Daniel Irrthum decided to walk all the circular hiking trails in the Grand Duchy. Every walk includes a picnic. The reason?

Our 2020 pandemic-induced lockdown. It was the start of a beautiful journey of discovery that continues to this day.

Hiking a new circular trail every weekend has become a beloved tradition for Daniel Irrthum and Ralph Kass. They look up favourite trails before the weekend to choose their next Sunday adventure.

Who are these guys? Where are they from? They appeared on social media out of nowhere. Both men, lean, short hair, glass es, beard, bear a resemblance to each other. Their feeds feature pictures of them in the most beautiful places. And every trip includes a picnic complete with table cloth, bread, grapes and more.

Ralph and Daniel love celebrat ing and photographing their walks. Though “walks” might be a bit of an understatement. And yet “hikes” immediately sounds so laborious and aspirational. You hear “walk”, you think “muse”. A walker savours, gazes, sees more. This spirit is reflected in their online posts.

New favourite spots

They’ve travelled all over the world and couldn’t travel often or far enough. But then Covid hit and international trips be came a no-go. You couldn’t even cross nearby borders. “That’s when we thought: we’re not going to let this get us down! What can we do? Explore our own country!” Ralph remem bers.

That’s when they decided to hike an “Auto-pédestre” circular trail every Sunday, a now beloved tradition that has endured be yond lockdowns.

They peruse various Luxembour gish tourism websites such as Geoportal to select their Sunday hikes. Why do they love these

trails so much? “They’re beautiful, often off the beaten path. They’re more peaceful,” says Ralph who has always loved being outdoors and used to be in the scouts.

Circular trail ambassadors

A staple of every tour: a beauti ful picnic on a small table cloth, prepared with love. “Our friends can’t wait to see the pictures every week,” says Daniel and grins. Both regularly feature their favourite spots on social media and have be come “circular trail ambassadors”. “Doing this made us realise that Luxembourg has a lot to offer!” stresses Daniel.

The northern Éislek is a great region to explore through circular walks. In recent years, the regional tourist office created and perfected 200 trails. The “Éislek Pied”, Lux

embourgish for “Paths through the Éislek”, are particularly lovely. They are based on the strict criteria of the European Ramblers Association. Along the Éislek Pied, hikers will find many accommodation options as well as beautiful places that will help them leave their cares behind.

Ralph and Daniel spent the night at one of the rustic chalets at Hotel Dirbach Plage. “Pure holiday vibes,” enthuses Ralph.

This weekend, Ralph and Daniel slept at Dirbach Plage. The hotel, which has a soundtrack of rushing water, is located near the Sûre river, and can only be reached by crossing a small bridge. This place is like something straight out of a romantic film.

Bourscheid Castle and its surroundings are a rewarding goal for these hiking enthusiasts. The view from the castle is as impressive as the view of the castle from Réngelschleed across the valley.

Bourscheid is the biggest castle in Luxembourg. It’s an imposing structure with emblematic round towers built on a rocky promontory 150 metres above Sûre level. The castle offers magnificent views of the surrounding valley. At night, it is lit up and creates a mystical ambiance.

After Ralph and Daniel learn from Herb Witch Jutta Kanstein and Detective Ralph Heuschen about the history, flora and geology of the Éislek region, they go for a picnic. Today with venison salami, Ardennes ham, reservoir bread, Riesling Pâté and Bourscheid beer.

Usually, they drive straight back home to Esch-sur-Alzette in the South because everything is close in Luxembourg. This time though, the hiking enthusiasts are spending the whole weekend up north.

After an energising breakfast, the duo strap on their backpacks and head out. One of today’s goals?

The magnificent Bourscheid castle, seemingly located at the centre of the world. The chal

lenging circular trail bears the same name and is home to un forgettable views and, of course, the castle itself. Its massive walls are doubly reinforced and in the past fascinated French author Victor Hugo. A replica of one of his drawings adorns the entrance of the castle.

A herb witch and a detective as guides

This is where guides Jutta Kanstein and Ralph Heuschen greet our hikers. “I am Els of Bourscheid, a herb witch, and Ralph is Sherlock Holmes,” says Jutta with a whimsical smile. Her old-fashioned garment transports visitors back to the 19th century. She and Ralph play two fictional characters who solve puzzling cases together in the castle, in cluding the case of questionable money supposedly printed here.

Jutta and Ralph know how to entertain their guests with their knowledge of the castle, plants and regional geology. “The aggressors got caught on these brambles between the walls!” points Jutta, as she recounts some stories from the past. Dan iel and Ralph learn that mullein flowers used to be plunged in wax or bitumen to create torches. To end the visit, Jutta shows the men “wild carrot” growing in the wall. The herb’s roots are edible and truly taste like carrots. In the sunny courtyard, a picnic of venison salami, Ardennes ham, Riesling Pâté and Bourscheid beer tastes even better.

Dream and let your thoughts wander at Bourscheid Castle. Gaze at the fascinating valley sections including Hoscheid, Lipperscheid and Bourscheid all the way to Napoleon’s Tree.

A highlight: the ridge walk along the Molberlee. The crest near Hoscheid is part of the Escapardenne Lee Trail and offers breathtaking views. Watch your footing and stay alert.

“Lee” means “rock”.

The word is part local toponymy and includes many village names as well as other land tracts in Luxembourg, especially in the Mullerthal and Éislek regions.

On the way to Malpaartes, a place in nature near Schlindermanderscheid, Jutta recites the first verse of the famous Renert poem. Hikers stand on slates in the water.

After refuelling, hiking the challenging Molberlee ridge walk at the heart of the Éislek region feels feasible. The trail, an Éislek highlight, is surrounded by mul berry trees, after which the ridge is named. There are steep drops on both sides, offering an open view of the jagged Ardennes. It’s important to mind your step and be sure-footed. A gentle breeze stirs the grass and bushes.

Legendary tours with breathtaking views

Showing visitors how to enjoy nature mindfully, that’s what Jutta and Ralph care about. Hikes don’t need to be about athletic performance. That is also why their tours are real adventures full of stories and legends.

A visit to Schlindermanderscheid, a village below the Molberlee, is a must. The village is mentioned in the second verse of the Luxem bourgish Renert tale, written by Michel Rodange. At that moment, Jutta fittingly fetches the script from its hiding place behind a rock and recites the poem against the backdrop of the forest.

A fox in a tuxedo who flouts all laws and moral principles. What better place to safeguard him than in this beautifully untamed environment? In the Éislek, smoky, tangy and rustic is appreciated, just like Ralph and Daniel’s venison salami, which will surely be part of their next Sunday walks.

The village Unterschlinder has six residents. Plants climb along trellised exterior house walls. Thirsty hikers will find water here as well.

Nature & Geoparks

A beauty to protect On the trails of unspoilt nature

Luxembourg offers a wide range of experi ences in a small area, close to nature. Many of the most beautiful hiking and cycling trails lead through nature reserves or nature parks. But the concept of nature parks goes much further. They are also there to provide visitors and locals with everything they need to know about the treasured landscape.

The newest nature park is the Mëllerdall UNESCO Global Geopark  in the Mullerthal region in the east of the country. Its history began in a sea some 245 million years ago. Countless grains of sand and other particles were deposited and solidified into stone. The sea disappeared and rivers formed the rocky landscape that is so impressive today. Individual special places and rock forma tions come together

for visitors to form an impressive whole. www.naturparkmellerdall.lu

The Naturpark Öewer sauer  , Luxembourg’s water region, lies in the northwest of the coun try, in the Éislek region. Its centrepiece is the dam lake, which serves both as a recreation area and as a drinking water reservoir. The Upper Sûre lake and its tributaries flow through the region, making it a paradise for flora and fauna, but also for sports and nature lovers. www.naturpark-sure.lu

The Naturpark Our  is located in the Ardennes, in the north of Luxembourg, in the trinational region between Luxembourg, Belgium and Germany. It is characterised by the vast high plateau and the narrow, dreamy valleys cut into the rock by the rivers Our, Clerve and their tribu taries. Unique biotopes, important for a large number of plant and bird species, have been preserved in the marsh es on the high plateau and in isolated places in the river valleys. For the past 25 years, farmers in the nature park have been growing mustard, rape, sunflow

ers, flax, hemp, poppies and buckwheat on their own plots. These products are processed and sold here under the motto "from field to plate". Transparency, traceability and quality are the top priorities of the Ourdall farmers. www.naturpark.lu www.ourdaller.lu

Southern Luxembourg is characterised by its biodiversity. This is why it holds the Minett UNESCO Biosphere  label. The region is part of a prestigious international network of more than 700 biosphere reserves in 124 countries. Flowering orchids and lush green meadows near the old mines, the reddish iron ore fields, the fascinating land scape of the Red Rocks: this is the Minett region. Nature reserves such as Ellergronn or the former open-cast mining area Prënzebierg – Giele Botter are great to discover on foot or by mountain bike. www.minett-biosphere.com

Did you know that Luxembourg currently has 60 designated national nature reserves? Over 4 percent of the country’s surface area is protected.

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© LFTTHOMAS JUTZLER

CAPESIUS MARIE BRUNO SCHROEDER UNSEN

SAISON 2022 – 2023 BORIS LODER

The 2022-2023 photographic season celebrates the diversity of Luxembourg creation through the work of six contemporary photographers. On the market square, we set out with Bruno Oliveira to Cap Vert, via a documentary collection shot through with personal sensations, while along the rise to the church, Véronique Kolber presents a series of American street scenes, captured through her lens, that resonate in our cinematographic memory. Behind the church, Marie Capesius, by way of calm and sensual images, explores the question of paradise and the

contrasts between the two worlds that co-exist on the Île du Levant. Inspired by the methods of archaeology, Boris Loder collects objects, examines them, and thus condenses the identities of the City of Luxembourg’s various neighbourhoods and their stereotypes into sculptural photographs that can be seen in the arcades of Grand-Rue. On the Castle concourse, we are greeted by Marc Schroeder’s black and white minimalist photographs capturing urban landscapes which seem to follow a strict graphic logic. While in the Castle gardens, the women portrayed by Jeannine Unsen share with us a moment that is both intimate and intense.

Installation Santeri Tuori © Mike Zenari, 2021

CLERVAUXIMAGE.LU

Hard to the limit

Luxembourg’s Annick Goerens wants to reach for the sky. Whether bouldering spots or rocks in the Mullerthal: Every wall is an invitation. She simply loves climbing. And she does it with energy and ambition.

Climbing partners must trust each other 100 percent. In case of doubt, the life of one partner depends on the reaction speed of the other. Whoever stands on the ground and holds the belaying rope in their hands bears a great respon sibility. Concentration is required here.

“Rope! Rope is coming!“ yells Annick. The sinewy, young woman dangles from the edge of a cliff in Berdorf. Her voice echoes through the cool, damp morning in the Mullerthal region. Trees tower just as high as the prominent rock where she stands with ropes. She throws one of them down now; in a moment she will abseil down herself. Below her, climbing partner Joe Haux casually steps aside as the rope falls and then neatly clears it away. The two are a well-rehearsed team.

This strong woman is full of en ergy. Sometimes while climbing, you can see the tattoo on her left forearm: a stylised moun tain landscape with a full moon above it. Enclosed by a compass rose with the four cardinal points. The tattoo of an outdoor adventurer.

One woman, two faces

If you see Annick in front of the camera - dressed in a muted trouser suit or blazer - doing her job seriously, eloquently and professionally, there is no hint of this other dimension. A dormant volcano. No tattoo, motorbike boots (she rides a heavy motorbike through the Grand Duchy) or dirt under her fingernails.

The television studio world is tidy, controlled: a concentrated work atmosphere. The world out side is a gigantic playground with ever new physical challenges. Dr Annick and Mrs Goerens.

Annick grins as she abseils along the striking, dark grey rock lay ers. 13 carabiners - as the eyelets firmly placed in the rock face are called - dangle from her belt. She uses these to hook into the bolts. “13 is kind of a lucky num ber!” says Annick and nudges Joe in the side.

Beloved challenge

This route is called Father’s Day. Each route here on the rock is mapped out, remembered by a specific name, and each offers up a different challenge. Challenges are what Annick Goerens seeks, finds and loves in climbing. The journalist travels a lot around the country and with people, and she likes to learn new things, to discover, and conquer. “I like to acquire everything systematically and

I am strict with myself. I just want to do it perfectly!” says Annick. “While having fun, of course.”

Annick met Joe Haux, who works for the police, profession ally during an interview almost 13 years ago. He was already a passionate climber back then, and he infected Annick with his enthusiasm. “She learnt really

The Wanterbach climbing area, located near the village of Berdorf, is very compact. It boasts 165 sport climbing routes on a single site. The crags are arranged – more or less – in a triangle and it takes less than five minutes to walk from the first to the last crag.

Around Berdorf there are great hiking paths through crevices and caves. The famous Mullerthal Trail runs through here.

Morning has broken at the climbing cliff in Berdorf, where Annick and her climbing partner Joe find excitement and relaxation, adrenaline and complete peace in nature.

It’s all a question of the right equipment. 13 carabiners hang from Annick’s belt. Definitely a lucky number!

fast, is ambitious and a super climbing partner!” affirms the dark-haired man, who likes to wear bright orange outside; a colour that is easy to see and cheerful.

“The rocks here are ideal for learning and for sport climbing. I also like to go here alone after work, it’s relaxing,” Annick says. But she has also been climbing with Joe in the Alps and the Dolomites. “That’s

something else, you have to put the wedges into the rock yourself, and it requires even more concentration. You have to know and assess the rock; you have to find your own way.”

Each route is a puzzle

A few more climbers join the couple in Berdorf and are searching for a path on the wall. It can get quite busy at week ends in the middle of a famous hiker’s paradise in the Muller thal. As a former sports present er at campsites Annick certainly likes groups and community, but peace and contemplation are just as important to her. Fortu nately, there are other climbing spots to escape to when it gets crowded, and other types of climbing, such as bouldering.

In bouldering, you pull yourself up without a belay until you reach a jumping height at which it is still safe to fall. You can do this in nature or on indoor and outdoor climbing walls. On climbing walls, the route is shown with coloured moulds that look like small stones which you can grip or step on. Each colour is a level of difficulty, each climb a puzzle to be solved.

The climbing wall in the park in Mamer is one of those places where you can choose new climbs almost every time, because the stones are always placed differ ently. The structure looks like colourful concrete origami. Alex Dermentzoglou is currently working on new routes.

While Annick dangles at the top of the rock climbing partner Joe Haux belays below; the two are a well-coordinated team. When belaying, he has her “in the palm of his hand”, so to speak.

Bouldering is climbing without a climbing rope and harness on boulders, rock faces or artificial climbing walls up to the “jump height” – i.e. the height from which it is still possible to jump from the wall to the ground without any significant risk of injury.

No, the photo is not rotated or misprinted. Annick hangs, deep in concentration, almost horizontal on a wall, every muscle tensed. Giving up is not an option.

The climbing wall in Mamer looks like colourful concrete origami. The handholds are constantly being repositioned so that climbing the artificial wall remains exciting.

“I have to make sure that the markers aren’t too far apart, so that shorter people like Annick can also get up easily!” grins the 1.93-metre-tall young man with a blond bun. He greets Annick with a hearty handshake. An nick is also the president of the Boulder Klub Lëtzebuerg. Boul dering is another of her great passions, along with many other sports such as running, moun tain biking, yoga and stand-up paddle boarding.

The climbing and bouldering community is warm and open, and people help each other: that’s what makes this sport spe cial. You don’t need an opponent to practise. No one has to lose to someone. It is a contemplative sport that requires concentra tion.

Give up? Not an option.

Annick is constantly confronted with the world’s biggest prob lems at work. Climbing allows her to switch off. It is a sport made for people who want to go to the outer limits, who want to feel every muscle in their body without having to defeat anyone. On the contrary: people share tips, exchange informa tion, even across borders, for example with the bouldering community in Trier, Germany. A large bouldering hall will soon be built in Esch in the south of the country.

Mamer hosts the Greater Re gion’s only specialised climbing shop. Alex works there and

looks after the climbing walls as a member of Boulder Klub Mamer. When I visit, he is helping a young girl find her way up. In no time at all she is at the top, beaming be fore dropping onto the thick mat.

Meanwhile, Annick hangs, lost in concentration, she is almost horizontal on a wall, every muscle tense, every sinew visible. Then she lets herself fall. This time she could not crack the difficult route. But Annick keeps at it because giving up is not an option.

The climbing and bouldering community is warm and open, people help each other, offer tips and exchange ideas. Annick is sharing ideas with Alex from the Boulder Klub Mamer. A sport made for people who, like Annick, like to go to the limit without having to beat anyone.

Steep hotspots

Take me higher The best areas for climbing

The Berdorf climbing area  in the Muller thal region is certainly the most spectacular place in Luxembourg to climb steep rock faces. It offers several fixed climbing routes and is set amidst the fairytale forest and rocky land scape of Luxembourg's Little Switzerland. There are many hiking trails in the area, the best known of which is the Muller thal Trail. www.visitberdorf.lu

In the west of the coun try, Mamer Park  is a cool place for outdoor bouldering, in other words free climbing without tools. A polyg onal block of man-made boulders offers several routes to discover, from easy to difficult. The routes are constantly being redesigned by the operators. www.mamer.lu

In the spacious indoor hall of the Echternach Youth Hostel  you can climb in comfort away from wind and weather. The modern

climbing wall is 14 metres high, ideal for regular climbing courses and free climbing, for beginners, advanced climbers or families. Climbing equipment can be hired on site. Group events are also organised. www.youthhostel.lu

Climbing is also possible in the capital: the Coque  swimming and sports centre also offers an at tractive indoor climbing wall and a bouldering wall with different levels of difficulty and over 150 routes. The equipment can be rented. www.coque.lu

The new RedRock Climbing Centre  in Soleuvre is the largest and most modern climb ing hall in Luxembourg. It is designed according to Olympic standards. Its 15.5 m high main hall has four devices with safety devices. A training room for beginners and children and a bouldering room (each 4.50 metres high) complete the facilities, giving a total available climbing area of 1,400 m². Equipment can be hired or purchased on site. There is a café-res taurant and team events and birthday parties are also possible.

www.redrock-climbing center.lu

Where nature meets medieval charm www.visit-vianden.lu Visit Vianden visitvianden

The Steinfort Adven ture high ropes course  offers climbing fun among the trees: for thrills at great heights in the middle of the countryside! Discover nine circuits for young and old with varying difficulty levels. The park also invites you to explore the forest ecosystem and to go for walks and picnics. www.steinfort-adventure.lu

The small Grand Duchy also has an impressive selection of climb ing clubs, such as the Éisleker Klammveräin or the Klammklub Uelzechtdall, which offer courses, tutorials and lectures on the art of climbing  : everything you need to start climbing safely, improve your tech nique and share your passion for climbing with a community of like-minded people. Very often you have to become a member to take part in activities. Full list on www.flera.lu

Running

Get set, go!

Running events in Luxembourg

The most famous and impressive running event in the Grand Duchy is the ING Night Marathon .

During the evening and night, joggers dash through the plateaus and valleys of the capital whose streets are transformed into a festive atmosphere. www.ing-night-marathon.lu

Autumn marks the harvest season in the Moselle re gion’s vineyards. That makes it an ideal time to start a half-marathon through this beautiful countryside!

Created in 1962, the ING Route du Vin  is the oldest road race in Luxem bourg. Some 1,800 partic ipants – experienced and amateur runners – line up at the start every year. www.routeduvin.lu

The famous Ironman  franchise has a race in Luxembourg. In 2023, the triathlon (swimming-bik ing-running) will pass through Germany, France and Luxembourg. The Grand Duchy leg of the race takes place along the Moselle river. www.ironman.com/ im703-luxembourg

Those who participate in the DKV Urban Trail  receive a unique tour of Luxembourg City, and they can tackle it at a leisurely or competitive pace. The route takes par ticipants through some of the city’s most beautiful historical and cultural heritage. www.urbantrail.lu

The Uewersauer Trail  crosses the beautiful Éis lek region starting from Heiderscheid. Proceeds from the entry fee go to charity, as well as to a project supporting young athletes. www.trail-uewersauer.lu

The UTML – Ultratrail Mullerthal  takes experienced runners from all over the world along the Mullerthal region’s trails. Known locally as the Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland, this unspoilt natural landscape features dramatic rock formations, deep caves and narrow paths. Runners might have the impression of being transported to another world. www.utml.lu

In summer, the Escher Kulturlaf  winds its way through the southern metropolis, offering dif ferent routes for different levels. And all this to live music performed by more than a dozen bands. The Kulturlaf is a sporting and

© VINCENT LESCAUT/L'ESSENTIEL

A walk through ii 400 years of history ii

musical event, but also a cultural and fun escape, because it coincides with Esch’s Night of Culture. www.kulturlaf.lu

The Steel-Run , which crosses the steel city of Differdange every year in autumn, is not for the faint hearted. The motto of this 13-kilometre race is "We are steel". www.steelrun.lu

Crossing the capital together Sightrunning

Want to do sports and have fun every week with like-minded people? Through rain, sun or snow, the FatBetty.Run  team of runners meets every Thursday evening at Independent Café in the capital at 18:45. This group run (sometimes more than 50 runners) is not about competition, but celebrating the pleasure of running 5 or 10 kilometres together. The FatBetty motto: "It's not about running fast or at a pace, but about running while having fun together!”

Of course, it can always evolve into something else. Many FatBetty.Runners participate in some of the events described above, and all over the world. Put on your running shoes and give it a go! It only costs you a smile. www.fatbetty.run

© VINCENT LESCAUT/L'ESSENTIEL

© VINCENT LESCAUT/L'ESSENTIEL

A great escape

The two globetrotters and self-made publicists Anabela and Jorge have written an unplanned success story with their travel magazine “diariesof”. From Luxembourg, they explore the globe by motorbike. They took us on a ride through their home country.

The clearing with the lake is the legendary Hunnebour. Besides – currently – “Tarzan” Jorge, Hun King Attila is also said to have stopped here on his raid to the west in the fifth century. He watered his horses. He probably had a picnic. And he certainly drank from the water of the spring that rises here.

Green surrounds us. A waterfall splashes. Jungle. We stand a little apart, watching in silence. Rays of sunlight break on the surface of the waterhole. The man, Tarzan? Do we hear monkeys chattering in the distance? Are the sounds exotic? Or are we dreaming? The well-trav elled man who is not Tarzan but seems to be right here and now, who transforms the clearing with a small lake in the Guttland into a rainforest-like scene by his sheer charisma and the stories from all over the world he carries in his imaginary rucksack, is Jorge Va lente. Long, curly black hair. Che Guevara beard. Motorbike trousers. Upper body exposed. Captivating laugh.

Healing powers at Hunnebour

The clearing with a lake where we find ourselves is the mythical Hunnebour. The water is said to have healing powers. We modern outdoorsmen naturally squeeze the water through a filter before drinking it. Perhaps this filters out the legendary healing powers at the same time. But a sip from the spring is still incredibly refresh ing. And the stopover at this semi-shaded place on the edge of the forest is healing anyway.

Next to Motorbike-Tarzan Jorge stands his wife, Anabela. Dim ples playing at the corners of her mouth, she watches the activities of her partner in life, love and work with reserved amusement.

They have been a couple since 2004. Jorge was born in Luxem bourg and has Portuguese roots

and Anabela was born in Portu gal. They were working in various agencies when they decided to take time out in 2013 to discover Latin America on their motorbike.

Back home in Luxembourg, the idea of having to return to an office job seemed almost crazy to them. At the same time, the calls from friends and acquaintances to make “something” out of the pictures and stories they brought back from their trip got louder.

No risk, no fun!

They quit their jobs and started a crowdfunding campaign to pro duce a print magazine about their trip to America. And so “diariesof” was born and came to stay. Sixteen issues have since made it into print; an amazing success when you look at the highly competitive mar ket for printed magazines. When you get to know the two of them,

you understand that success was almost inevitable. Their curiosity, enthusiasm and warm-heartedness towards people is contagious. At the same time, they are authentic. The project “diariesof” is not about making money first. It is about tell ing stories. About being amazed. About the people. After quitting their jobs, they immediately went Jorge and Anabela’s favourite way of travelling is always by motorbike. It takes them to remote places. They travel fast without having to carry an unnecessarily large vehicle with them. No sheet metal restricts the view as in a car. The view can roam. In all directions. You are mobile and can always find a parking space. The perfect explorer-mobile.

For once, Anabela and Jorge get off the motorbike.

They want to show us the paths into the narrow rocky gorges and over iron suspension bridges of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland on foot, before we continue cruising.

Forest massifs criss-crossed by small, winding watercourses, unusual biotopes with high sandstone formations jutting out of them, narrow rocky passages, mysterious caves and gorges and a diverse flora: that is the Mullerthal. The region in the north-east of the coun try is also called Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland. And it lives up to its name.

The Vianden pumped storage power station consists of a reservoir on the River Our and the upper basin. It is used to store water for the generation of electrical energy. The observation tower is freely accessible and offers a great view over the upper basin.

on a trip from Portugal through Asia to Japan on their motorbikes. After 15 issues from all over the world, from Georgia, Iran, Cuba and other places, in issue 16 they finally discover the adventurous land on their doorstep. They made an issue about Luxembourg.

Back to the Hunnebour. That’s why we’re here. Anabela and Jorge show us some of the places they visited

on their road trip through Lux embourg. Anabela and Jorge are explorers and want to immerse themselves in the culture of a country. Of course, they are im pressed by the wonders of nature, but outdoor sports aren’t their thing. They don’t feel the need to hike. For them, nature is not a sports field, but a meeting place, and they can’t get enough of the people there are to meet.

Encounters and other adventures

Cultural techniques, especially ancient ones, are another thing to marvel at. Sure, everyone is impressed when they see how, in archaic-looking areas of Georgia, grapes are thrown into huge clay amphorae buried in the ground to make wine as they did 1000 years ago. But in Luxembourg, too, there is craftsmanship that goes back to ancient techniques. You just have to keep your eyes open. You can also experience the an cient Georgian-style wine-press ing method in Luxembourg. At the Moselle. In Hëttermillen.

Between heaven and hell

In an inconspicuous workshop on the main street in the small village of Berdorf, glassblower Pascale Seil has been working for over 20 years on works of art made of mouth-blown glass and handcrafted, beautiful utilitar ian objects. Martial-like tools are everywhere. The pliers used to work the glass look like the torture arsenal from a dentist’s

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THOMAS JUTZLER

Unexpected things often happen. No tower along the way goes unnoticed. Anabela and Jorge are as happy as treasure hunters when they come across something unplanned on their tours that looks like it could be visited. Like the viewing tower at the reservoir, for example.

In the glassblowing workshop in the small village of Berdorf, ancient craftsmanship meets modern form. Objects are dipped, sprinkled and rubbed into inconspicuous-looking, differently coloured sands before being fired again. After firing: colour explosions!

For more than 20 years, glassblower Pascale Seil has been working on works of art made of mouth-blown glass and handcrafted, beautiful objects of daily use. The thermometer reads over 1000 degrees Celsius, and the furnace heats up the workshop and the visitors nicely.

creepy cabinet. Hellfire and the beauty of art objects stand close together. Colourful glass spheres, like giant eyes of gigantic fanta sy creatures, iridescent dragons perhaps, gaze brilliantly at us. An cient craftsmanship meets modern design language. This is definitely a studio to visit!

Only a few hundred metres further on is the main tourist destination. The Visitor Centre of the Mullerthal region in Berdorf

In the shadow of Vianden Castle, which has a scent of of fairy tales and the Middle Ages, gigantic cutlets, ribs and fillet steaks are roasted Beim Hunn on a soot-blackened old wood fire grill. This must have been the smell of the Middle Ages.

is the starting point for numer ous hikes into the well-known gorges of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland. For once, Anabela and Jorge get off the motorbike. They want to show us the paths into the narrow rocky gorges and over iron suspension bridges on foot, before it’s time for a little cruising. Luxembourg’s roads are perfect for extended motorbike tours. The asphalt is smooth and the network of petrol stations is unbelievably dense. Plus the typical country roads lined with white-painted tree trunks. At the Priedegtstull (see p.112), Jorge skilfully lays into the bend. The bike whizzes past the vertical rock faces and disappears into the dense deciduous forest. A para dise for Easy Riders.

“We love to be surprised,” Anabela tells us. She is mainly responsible for the texts, while Jorge is the designer and photographer. “If

we’re on the road and an observa tion tower appears, for example, and it’s not really obvious what you’re going to see when you climb it, then of course it’s a stop, and we’re almost forced to reveal the secret. Let’s take the tower at the Vianden pumped storage plant. Totally inconspicuous. And that’s exactly why it’s interesting for us. Why has someone built a lookout tower here? There must be something behind it. Sure, it’s not a classic tourist attraction... but it’s also such a building – like this artificial lake that suddenly opens up in front of you when you climb the stairs: it’s part of the history, the culture of a country. It’s interesting. And it’s a shame if you miss it and just plod past.”

Feasting like in the Middle Ages

Nevertheless, we drive at full speed towards Vianden. We pass the huge castle on our left and wind down the hill on which it stands to the restaurant Beim Hunn.

This is a grill restaurant in a half-timbered house. Brave! The smell of wood, barbecue and open fire wafts through the air. The owner, talkative and visibly proud, invites his customers to look around. But he can’t stay too long for the photo! He has to flip the steak. The customers have ordered it rare. Please be quick with the photo! The meat has to be cooked to perfection. Back at the table, the photographer is satisfied. So is the owner. And the dish is excellent.

The ruins of Brandenbourg Castle, whose origins date back to the 10th century, perch on a rocky outcrop and overlook the village of the same name. A circular route leads visitors through the entire complex, from the tunnel connecting the castle with the lower courtyard to the top of the tower.

Open-air celebrations

The main outdoor festivities

Luxembourg looks forward to the famous Schueber fouer  fun fair each year. From the end of August to the beginning of September, the country's largest folk festival attracts visitors from all over the world to the Glacis in the capital: families, friends, tourists, Luxembourgers and even celebrities and politicians. The large car park becomes a play ground for the showmen and restaurant owners. Tradition is very impor tant here, both in the rides and in the specialities. A fairground in all the ways you can imagine. www.fouer.lu

The world-famous UNE SCO intangible heritage, the Dancing Procession of Echternach  is a great pleasure. Every year on Whit Tuesday, pilgrims and spectators from Luxembourg and beyond gather to take part in this unique cult phenomenon. The hop is accompanied by an endlessly played polka melody. Some 12,000 to 14,000 pilgrims, including up to 9,000 dancers, take

part in the procession through the town to the tomb of Saint Willibrord. www.mullerthal.lu

The National Day  is the most important celebration of the year in Luxembourg. On 22 and 23 June, festivities are organised throughout the country: two days of con certs, fireworks, children's games and commemo rative ceremonies such as the famous military parade, which always attracts many guests. The birthday of the current Grand Duke is celebrated on 23 June, regardless of the date of birth of the monarch. www.luxembourg.public.lu

The Advent season in Luxembourg City is lit up by Winterlights  The festival has many Christmas markets and illuminations spread out all over the city. It also includes concerts, exhibi tions and entertainment for young and old. And of course, Christmas speci alities and traditional and modern products are on sale everywhere. www.winterlights.lu

A former industrial site, now a research and inno vation centre, the blast furnaces of Esch-Belval are the centrepiece of the Blast Furnace Festival  in the summer. A vari ety of shows and events

combine culture, art and science: concerts, theatre, dance, exhibitions, as well as a visit to the blast furnaces. There are also reading corners, areas for children to play freely and much more. One of the highlights is the illumina tion of the blast furnaces. www.fonds-belval.lu

On the Night of the Lanterns  , very special Northern Lights can be seen in the Éislek: hun dreds of lanterns are lit in the Jardin de Wiltz. This magical light show took place for the first time in 2007 during the European Capital of Culture year. The Night of the Lanterns takes place in September and now has a large fan community. There is also an exhibition and various performances. www.ndl.lu

Medieval festivals  also have their many fans. In Luxembourg, the festivals in Vianden and Dudelange are particular ly popular. In July, in the impressive setting of the famous castle of Vianden, the festival always has a lot to offer. Medieval music, juggling enter tainment and rattling armour are all part of the fun. In September, the Butschebuerger Buergfest in Dudelange creates a medieval atmosphere. www.castle-vianden.lu www.buergfest.lu

During the golden au tumn season in October, the famous Nut Mar ket  takes place in Vianden. Every year, on the second Sunday in October, it attracts up to 20,000 people from near and far. This is where lovers of walnuts in all their forms meet. It is a popular event for locals, tourists and curious people! www.nessmoort.lu

The Kropemann Festival in Redange-on-Attert in the Guttland region is named after a strange character. The Septem ber festival offers jazz and blues, a hobby and artists’ market, children's entertainment and many delicious specialities. The Kropemann (literally 'hook man') is a mythical Luxembourg figure who belongs to the water spirits. He is the symbol of the municipality of Redange. www.reidener-kropemanns fest.lu

The Steampunk Conven tion  is certainly the most imaginative open-air festival in Luxembourg. It takes place in the Fond-de-Gras open-air museum. Steampunk fans from home and abroad meet here every autumn. The costumes are a crazy mix of Victorian chic and retro-tech elements. www.anno1900.lu

In Nospelt and Luxem bourg City (Marché aux Poissons), the Emaischen markets  take place on Easter Monday. This is where the tradition al bird whistles, the Péckvillercher, are sold. New ones are created and fans buy a new edition each year. The event is part of the official intan gible cultural heritage of the country. The origin of its name is said to be linked to the biblical town of Emmaus. www.emaischen.lu www.vdl.lu

In Bettembourg, the Night of Wonders is a night-time fairy tale: jugglers, artists and per formers fill the town in July. A circus atmosphere fills the streets and music is in the air. www.ndm.lu

The wine events bring colour, taste and pleasure to the annual calendar. They take place in the Moselle region and offer many pleasing wines and imaginative names: the Wine Lights Enjoy  vineyard walk, the Wine Taste Enjoy open cellars, the cult wine festival Picadilly in Stadtbredi mus, and the Mosel Licht & Flammen between Wasserbillig and Remich. Great lighting concepts, dazzling productions, lots of music and enter tainment and even boat

trips are all part of the celebrations. www.visitmoselle.lu www.mosellichtundflammen.lu www.picadilly.lu

Music festivals

Sounds under the starry sky

Every June, the Siren's Call music and culture festival brings indie, rock and pop music to Luxembourg City's cultural centre, the former Neimënster Abbey. www.sirenscall.lu

The Blues’n Jazz Rallye  is organised every summer by the city of Luxembourg City. This internationally renowned festival offers an impressive programme and attracts thousands of visi tors to the pedestrianised areas of the old town –Pfaffenthal, Clausen and Grund. www.vdl.lu www.neimenster.lu

The capital's Summer in the City programme in cludes live music festivals and entertainment of all kinds, from cinemas to open-air concerts in beau tiful locations throughout the city. www.rockumknuedler.lu

The e-Lake-Festival  takes place by the lake in Echternach every August. Three days and two stages with national and inter

national acts, a camp for your own tent in a real festival atmosphere, and free admission on top of it: this makes the summer fun! www.e-lake.lu

Also in Echternach, the Echterlive Festival takes place in July in the middle of the impressive abbey courtyard. Live concerts and an art and gastronomy village await guests. www.mullerthal.lu

Luxembourg Open Air–LOA  , is an EDM festival, which takes place in Luxembourg City and Esch. Local and international DJs take to the stage! In spring, among the blast furnaces in Esch-Belval, and in autumn on the Kirchberg plateau in Luxembourg City. www.loa.lu

The Wiltz Festival is a colourful mix. The annual event brings together theatre, film music, op eretta and pop: since the 1950s, there has always been something going on in the northern munici pality. New art forms are emerging and being add ed all the time. Open to everything and everyone: that’s how cool Wiltz is. Some of the world's top stars have also graced the stage. www.festivalwiltz.lu

Luci

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Texts Birgit Pfaus-Ravida Thomas Jutzler

Photos Pancake! Photographie Guido Kröger Other photos with friendly approval of the partners

Photo Editorial “Tips” Vanessa Migone Walter Ciotti

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