Luci - Issue 7 - English

Visiting Berg Castle In the Grand Duke’s garden

Luci

Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg

The charm of small cinemas Where film lovers and community meet

A picture-perfect adventure

From castle to castle by bike and rail

Editorial

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Moien and welcome to Luxembourg,

a lush green part of the world, which is also a veritable garden paradise. Travellers are often drawn to these oases of calm found both in the countryside and right in the heart of the capital. In this issue of Luci, we take you to parks, castle courtyards, and herb gardens nestled among tall buildings. We also get an exclusive glimpse into Grand Duke Henri’s garden at Berg Castle.

There’s plenty of sporting activity this time around, too. Four friends take a bike ride from castle to castle, and we embark on a hike along the Luxembourg section of the Camino de Santiago and through the Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall.

We invite you to experience great moments in small spaces as we explore cinemas across the country. And if popcorn isn’t enough, perhaps you’ll find culinary inspiration in our fresh interpretations of typical Luxembourgish recipes.

Find your own oasis of calm, and enjoy reading our latest issue of Luci

See you soon in Luxembourg!

Yours,

Dr. Sebastian Reddeker CEO Luxembourg for Tourism

6-16

Outdoors Passion ONE TOUR, THREE PASSIONS Of castles, trains and bikes

18-23

The Good Life AROUND LAROCHETTE CASTLE Castle legends and works of art

24-35 Outdoors Passion THE GRAND DUKE'S GARDEN His garden, his home

36-43 Daydream SURPRISING DETAILS ON A STROLL Just look up!

44-52 Daydream ESCAPE TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS Oases of calm 54-59

Open and Diverse A DECLARATION OF LOVE TO SMALL CINEMAS Sweet or salty?

60-66

The Good Life LUXEMBOURG PLAYGROUNDS Play, Laugh, Dream!

68-76

Outdoors Passion A HIKE THROUGH THE UNESCO GEOPARK Mullerthal's living geologic past

78-84

Outdoors Passion A THEATRICAL TOUR WITH THE GREEN MAN

Beyond the buildings, a green haven

86-92

The Good Life BUCOLIC ADVENTURES

The call of the countryside

94-104

Transforming Experiences THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES IN THE GRAND DUCHY

The Camino of Luxembourg

106-114

Transforming Experiences THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF RESISTANCE AND HUMAN RIGHTS IN ESCH-SUR-ALZETTE Light and shadow

116-121

The Good Life LOCAL DISHES TO COOK AT HOME

Traditional dishes with a modern twist

Oftrainscastles, and bikes

Photographer Alfonso Salgueiro has many passions that he shares with friends: outdoor adventures, cycling through Luxembourg’s picturesque landscapes and, of course, capturing places and moments on camera along the way.

In this story, Alfonso describes their trip that combines all of these things, riding their bikes and hopping on the free trains around the country.

Text and Photos ALFONSO SALGUEIRO

With around 600 kilometres of cycling routes and 700 kilometres of mountain bike trails (constantly growing!), Luxembourg is a paradise for cycle tourists. Test your mountain bike skills on tracks in the forest, through rocky ravines and ride by the lush meadows of river valleys. Luxembourg simply has an amazing variety of landscapes, and the routes always promise you a delightful ride.

When I first arrived in Luxembourg as a foreign national, I faced the common challenges of finding friendships and adapting to a new reality, including work, studies, and language barriers. Over time, I found the best way to integrate was by pursuing my passions and sharing them with like-minded people. For me, this included hiking, cycling, and photography. I’ve been fortunate to meet wonderful people from all over, including locals.

The symphony of the railways

Today, I want to bring all of these passions together to share with my friends. We will go on a cycling adventure and do a photo workshop together “on the road”. We meet in the ultra-modern Kirchberg district, near the Pfaffenthal funicular. As we descend to the Pfaffenthal train station, I’m again amazed by Luxembourg’s sleek and efficient public infrastructure.

Adding to the experience is the fact that all public transport in Luxembourg is free. While we wait on the platform, we share our impressions of public transport in our home countries and other places we’ve lived. We all agree that investment in public transport is one of the aspects we appreciate most about Luxembourg.

From the moment we step onto the platform, a symphony of sounds greets our ears. The announcements over the speakers, the passing trains, and the whistle from the train assistant all create a unique auditory experience. Everyone knows the familiar rhythm of a

moving train: a sort of diddly-dum beat, four quick beats repeated over and over. Modern railways have made that sound almost obsolete, yet the essence of that “music of the train wheels” still lingers.

We find the bicycle carriage, marked by a white bicycle symbol on a green background. Amid the train station sounds, we board and leave the capital city. Conver-

Located near the Pont Rouge, the funicular connects the Luxembourg rail network with the tram, bus and cycle track. It allows passengers coming from the train to climb 40 metres in 63 seconds and continue their journey.

Cycling is most enjoyable in a group, even when skill levels differ, as it offers natural opportunities to pause and take in the scenery.

Schoenfels Castle, with a history dating back to the 12th century, is one of the castles belonging to the “Valley of the Seven Castles” At present the renovation of the tower is underway. The plan is to install a visitor centre, as well as a Water & Forestry Museum.

sations flow, turning the journey into an exchange of experiences. Before we know it, we arrive at our destination.

Navigating through the stations to find our various routes, it’s evident how well everything is designed to accommodate cyclists. We were particularly amused by the lateral grooves on the stairs, allowing cyclists to easily roll their bicycles up or down. It’s important to remember, however, that cycling on the platforms is strictly prohibited.

The idea of combining trains, cycling, and photography came to me during a wonderful morning spent around Bourscheid Castle with my good friend Eric Engel. Eric, a Luxembourger, is an inspiring individual – a professional musician, an excellent photographer, and an avid cyclist. We share many passions. I have always enjoyed

photography, hiking, and cycling. There is so much to appreciate: the train journey, cycling through the beautiful Luxembourg countryside, capturing castles and landscapes with our cameras, and sharing enjoyable moments and great conversations along the way.

City buzz to country calm

Disembarking the train in Ettelbruck, we find ourselves deep in Luxembourg’s Éislek region in the north of the country. Our goal is to embark on a circular cycling route from Ettelbruck, aiming to take in some of the best vantage points around Bourscheid Castle.

Joining me is my British-Romanian friend, George Adam. He hasn’t been in Luxembourg long and is still adjusting, and his situation reminds

Free, uncomplicated and sustainable travel on public transport: Luxembourg is the world’s first country to offer free, nationwide public transport. Travellers no longer need to buy tickets to use local, regional and nationwide trains, trams or buses.

me of my own early days here. We set off from Ettelbruck train station, crossing the town towards Warken, where the ascent begins, leading us through forests and fields dotted with bright red poppies.

George, an accomplished long-distance cyclist, rode from London to Luxembourg to join his partner. When I mention the long ride, he says, “It didn’t feel that hard since I did it with two good friends.” This summer, he’s planning a trip from Luxembourg to Lisbon. On our way we chat about George’s introduction to photography by his father, who taught him to develop film and make prints. George, with his keen eye, moves around to find good angles of the castle.

We pass through Bourscheid village and then enjoy a fast, scenic descent towards Bourscheid-Plage, where we stop to admire the views before we continue towards Lipperscheid. We reach the Gringlay viewpoint, a place I have visited many times but which never disappoints. It’s George’s first time here, so we set up the tripod to capture the moment, standing on the stone wall overlooking the beautiful valley of the Sûre River below. The view is spectacular.

From here, we follow some field tracks and enjoy another fast, scenic descent towards Michelau. On our way back to Ettelbruck, George shares a funny anecdote from his cycling trip from London to Luxembourg. One evening, he and his two friends were near the France-Belgium border, exhausted and without food. With limited signal, they texted a friend for the nearest place to buy food and cycled 10km to a closed petrol station. After another

The old monastery Marienthal is now repurposed as a home for asylum seekers and a centre for the National Youth Service.

From the pond in the midst of the park, to the adventure playground for the youth, the many comfortable benches and the clean paths: in Park Mersch, in the heart of Luxembourg’s Guttland region, everything has been thought of to ensure that every visitor will find his favourite spot.

After fixing the issue of a loose valve, we enjoy our planned break at Useldange Castle, snacking and exploring the grounds to find the best angles to capture the castle’s impressive architecture.

Bourscheid Castle is Luxembourg‘s biggest castle, an impressive structure with its characteristic round towers, situated on a steep promontory, perched 150 metres high above the Sûre river.

10 km back in the dark, they burned the only food they had: Brazilian nuts. They went to bed hungry and had to cycle 30 km the next morning to find breakfast. George says it was the best panini he’s ever had.

The castles of Meysembourg and Larochette are easily reachable by bike from Mersch. Among the various routes we’ve taken, this one passes through more wooded areas, making it a delightful experience to cycle while listening to the sounds of the forest, especially in the springtime.

Meysembourg Castle is privately owned and not open to the public, yet cycling around the area offers rewarding views. Larochette Castle, dating back to the 11th century, sits atop a hill overlooking the White Ernz valley. The vistas from the hills surrounding the castle are truly impressive.

The Valley of the Seven Castles

We find ourselves in the heart of Luxembourg’s Guttland region. Mersch boasts its own castle, one of seven in the valley, famously guarded by a dragon. Typically, our excursions lead us away from Mersch along the Alzette Cycling Way. Passing through Mersch Municipal Park in the early morning feels especially rejuvenating and provides a beautiful, easy start to our day. I mention to the group that the routes here are generally not too challenging, though some skeptically remark, “We’ll see about that later.”

As we cycle past serene fields where cows and horses peacefully

Exchanging questions and tips on capturing the castle in Schoenfels with our cameras. Moving around to discover different and unique angles, unhurriedly, is key to creating more personal and memorable photographs.

graze, we reach Schoenfels and its distinctive castle, steeped in history since the 12th century. We take a break here for photography, exchanging questions and tips on capturing the castle with our cameras. One piece of advice I share is the importance of slowing down when photographing, avoiding the most clichéd viewpoints where everyone stands to capture the same image. Moving around to discover different and unique angles, unhurriedly, is key to creating more personal and memorable photographs.

As we ascend towards Schoenfels Castle, my friend Nuno Fontes jokingly reminds me of my earlier claim about the route not being too strenuous. We catch our breath

as we pause halfway up the hill to admire the impressive view of the castle from below.

We plan to take a break in Useldange, but upon arrival, we encounter a WWII artillery gun and notice Gritta’s bike has a puncture. “It’s a tubeless tire,” Gritta explains. Fortunately, George diagnoses the issue as a loose valve, which just needs tightening. We share a laugh, as most of us are more familiar with traditional inner tubes and find the tubeless system a bit mysterious.

After fixing the bike, we enjoy our planned break at Useldange Castle, snacking and exploring the grounds to find the best angles to capture the castle’s impressive architecture. During our journey through the

Valley of the Seven Castles, we’ve discovered several stunning spots. At Hunnebuer, legend has it that Attila the Hun watered his horses during his conquest of Western Europe in the fifth century. We’ve also encountered charming old stone bridges, which I must admit I have a fondness for.

Marienthal deserves a brief stop to admire its picturesque surroundings and the setting of the old monastery, now repurposed as a home for asylum seekers and a centre for the National Youth Service. The castles of Ansembourg, both old and new, are impressive landmarks dating back to the 12th and 17th centuries respectively.

Taking a short break near Septfontaines Castle, we engage in a

Tips:

 The Éislek’s regional tourist office offers guided tours of Bourscheid Castle for groups, carried out by qualified tour guides. www.visit-eislek.lu

 Useldange castle admission is free for self-guided tours but there are also guided tours of 90 minutes. www.visitguttland.lu

 With its abundance of landmarks, stunning nature, and historic towns, a tour of the Valley of the Seven Castles is a must for anyone looking to expand their knowledge of Luxembourg. www.visitguttland.lu

conversation about different ways people appreciate nature. Kamilė Vaupšaitė, from Lithuania, shares an intriguing story with us. “Have you ever heard of the ‘Claude glass’?” she asks. None of us have. Kamilė explains that in 18th-century England, the Claude glass, popularised by poet Thomas Gray, was used to view scenery artistically. Users would turn their backs to the landscape, finding the reflected image in the mirror more painterly. This reminds me of modern tourists taking selfies with their backs to iconic landscapes. Kamilė adds that this way of “enjoying” nature was satirised at the time, reflecting some people’s attitudes towards nature.

Koerich’s baroque church, historic houses, and its castle are another significant stop on our journey through the valley. Returning to Mersch train station, we feel invigorated by the wonderful cycling, cultural experiences, and personal exchanges. We decide to enjoy a delicious coffee at the station’s restaurant, where we had admired

the mouth-watering dishes carried by the waiters. The coffee is exceptionally good, and we all opt for a second round.

Passion Synergy

Using Luxembourg’s public transport network reduces our carbon footprint. Engaging in a sport I’ve loved since my teenage years brings joy and keeps me physically active. It allows me to appreciate the stunning outdoors and discover some of the country’s prominent landmarks. Lastly, capturing beautiful scenes and cherished moments with my camera creates lasting memories. It’s an all-encompassing experience that I highly recommend to anyone seeking fulfilling and enjoyable activities, along with the numerous attractions Luxembourg has to offer.

Considering taking your bicycle on the train? Bikes are carried free of charge and no reservation is required in Luxembourg. Access is subject to space availability on the train.

m o b il i t e i t .l u

F i n d t h e f as t es t

w a y a c r o s s

L u x e m b o u r g o n

p ub l i c t r a ns p o r t

w i t h o ur j o u r n e y

pl a n n e r a p p !

Castle legends and works of art

Surrounded by the gorgeous green of Luxembourg’s valleys, the charming village of Larochette is home to historical castle ruins. Our writer, Tom, journeys back in time and experiences the creativity and vitality of village life in the here and now.

Text TOM JUTZLER Photos ANDRÉ SCHÖSSER

I wander into the valley of the White Ernz. Up ahead, the ruins of Larochette Castle stand proud and tall on a Luxembourg sandstone promontory at the heart of the idyllic village. It strikes me that stories from the distant past are built into the medieval walls of this castle overlooking the valley from 150 metres above. My route to the castle takes me through a large outer bailey protected by an earth fortification and up to the spectacular ruins.

It’s hard not to be impressed by the main building – made from sandstone and surrounded by a wall that has deteriorated over the years – and the ruins of stately homes. I make my way up some steps that seem to lead nowhere and end up in the old dwellings. Or what’s left of them at least. It looks as though the castle has been rebuilt over and over again. And the ruins that remain in front of me could easily be a three-dimensional painting by the Dutch artist M.C. Escher.

Stories in the walls

The castle has been the subject of extensive restoration work and the site of archaeological excavations ever since it was acquired by the Luxembourg state in 1979. With a new roof over its multiple floors, the main building is both the heart of the castle and the hub of the village of Larochette as a concert venue and exhibition space. It stands tall and mighty like a massive monolith stretching up into the sky. Just imagine how difficult it must have been to build a structure this tall on a promontory back in medieval times.

I’ve arranged to meet a local artist called Pol Brachtenbach in this fascinating historical setting. I’m greeted by a man with grey hair, a well-groomed beard and a hat balanced jauntily on his head. He’s warm and endearing with a little twinkle in his eye. I feel immediately at ease. Pol might not have an exhibition at the castle right now, but that doesn’t stop him taking the time to let me in on some of the castle’s stories.

The castle has been partially restored in recent times but dates back to the 12th century. It looks over the village and the valley of the White Ernz from high up on a promontory. Larochette – “Fiels” in Luxembourgish –is named after the rock the castle was built on.

He tells me that the first references to the Lords of Larochette are from the end of the 12th century, mainly in their capacity as flag-bearers for the House of Luxembourg. By the end of the 14th century, there were five seigniorial families living within the castle walls. Pol proceeds with a captivating retelling of an old legend.

“It was a dark and stormy night when Larochette Castle was stormed by the enemy. In a panic, the lady of the castle climbed

down into the deep well in Créhange House with her child in her arms. Her plan was to escape the fighting and save her child’s life. But her brave and heroic actions stopped the attackers in their tracks. The next day, they rescued the innocent victims from the well. Still in need of a scapegoat for the whole atrocity, they seized the castle steward whose betrayal had allowed the castle to be stormed and threw him into the deep, dark well. The steward’s ghost turned into a dragon, which

remains in the well to this day and watches over the gold he had been given as a reward for his original betrayal. Legend has it that the dragon reappears at midnight on Good Friday every year. He emerges from the well and leads the enemy in an infernal dance around the abandoned castle courtyard.”

Artistic eye for detail

Pol Brachtenbach works on his intricate masks and other wooden works of art in his warm and welcoming workshop. He’s clearly dedicated to his art and it’s absolutely fascinating to see how he manages to bring the wood to life.

After telling me this captivating story next to the well inside the castle, Pol invites me to his home. He is one of the local artists who occasionally showcase their work in the exhibition space at the castle. He’s keen to show me his workshop and his woodcarving work. We step into his warm and welcoming workspace, where he introduces me to his intricate works of art. His passion shines through in the close attention to detail in the wood. Every one of his wooden sculptures tells its own story and reflects the artist’s affinity to his material. Pol is clearly dedicated to his art and it’s absolutely fascinating to see how he manages to bring the wood to life.

Pol tells me about his trips to Austria, where he learned how to carve wooden masks. This is not an art that originated in Luxembourg, after all. His passion for woodcarving took him to the Alps, where he picked up the old tradition before bringing it back home with him in his work.

Larochette is a stunning place to visit. A welcome reminder of the incredible experiences that await

Extensive excavation and restoration work has been carried out across the entire castle site. Temporary art exhibitions and occasional concerts breathe new life into the old walls of the historical castle.

Standing tall and proud at the heart of the village, the castle gives Larochette its unique charm. The oldest buildings here date back to the 11th century. In the modern day, Larochette is home to a beautiful blend of nationalities and cultures.

Larochette is a stunning place to visit. A welcome reminder of the incredible experiences that await when you escape the city and spend time exploring the depths of the valleys and woods.

when you escape the city and spend time exploring the depths of the valleys and woods. Temporary art exhibitions and occasional concerts breathe new life into the old walls of the historical castle and give the lovely village of Larochette its unique charm. You can’t help but be inspired by the special sparks of energy and creativity in rural Luxembourg. Every visit promises to be an unforgettable adventure – with talented artists to meet along the way.

If you’re inspired by the old ruins, you won’t want to miss out on the chance to explore Beaufort Castle while you’re in the area.

More to explore:

 With parking on site and a bus stop nearby, it couldn’t be easier for visitors to get to Larochette Castle .

 The small Larochette Textile Museum is located in the annexe of the old train station. Learn all about the cloth and clothing factories that were part of Larochette’s landscape for centuries by looking at old machinery and equipment from the golden days of the textile industry.

www.visitlarochette.lu

 The Verlorenkost promontory is well worth a visit while you’re in Larochette. Situated opposite the castle, the old watchtower offers a fascinating insight into local history and a fantastic view of the castle itself. The name “Verlorenkost” means “lost food”. According to the story, a cook was bringing the builders their lunch but tripped and dropped all the food.

www.visitlarochette.lu

 You’re treated to two castle experiences in one in Beaufort , where you can explore the ruins of a medieval castle and wander around the ornate rooms of a Renaissance castle . This is a unique opportunity to delve into different chapters of the region’s history.

www.beaufortcastles.com

Hishisgarden, home

His Royal Highness Grand Duke Henri is a nature lover who enjoys lacing up his hiking boots and exploring Luxembourg's landscapes on foot. However, the Grand Duke has a fond attachment to the garden of the Colmar-Berg castle in the Éislek region of northern Luxembourg. He can relax here, and he knows almost every shrub and flower by heart. We take a stroll with the monarch through the Berg Castle park.

Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

A sophora stands at the start of the path through the garden. Grand Duke Henri has a particular affinity to this over 150-year-old tree as it reminds him of his father, Grand Duke Jean, who passed away in 2019.

This one tree partially overhanging the path is particularly dear to Grand Duke Henri. The branches with their delicate leaves reach down to the ground, and the inside of the tree (supported by a few poles) forms a proper dome, like a greenhouse, providing shelter from the sun and the rain. "This sophora is certainly well over 150 years old and has been here longer than the castle. We used to play hide and seek here as children. Our grandchildren adore this place too, of course, and my father, Grand Duke Jean, loved to paint watercolours of this tree in his later years. He used to say that the shape of the tree makes it look like a mammoth." Grand Duke Henri smiles as he stands reminiscing inside the green dome. He then steps out of its shadow and continues along the path, away from the castle, towards the tall trees and the carp pond.

Morning inspiration

"When I get up in the morning, I almost always head out into the garden first thing, whenever I have time," explains the Grand Duke. He looks at the plants and draws inspiration from nature and the peaceful surroundings. Behind the Grand Duke, his main residence with its impressive towers reaches high into the sky. On the first floor, overlooking the garden, the private chambers of Grand Duke Henri and his wife, Her Royal Highness Maria Teresa, can be found, amongst other things. "My wife also loves the garden very much. She particularly enjoys arranging the flowers,"

explains the Grand Duke. Each member of the Grand Ducal Family has lent their name to a rose that can be found in gardens around the world, and of course here in the park of Berg Castle. "Here, you can see my wife's favourite flower: a pure-white peony!" says Grand Duke Henri with a smile.

From the workroom in an office located in the tower you get a stunning view of the garden and the nearby pond.

This is the view that greets Grand Duke Henri when he begins his morning stroll through the garden. Although 'garden' is something of an understatement here –it is more of a park!

His family descends from the noble House of Nassau. The Grand Duke himself is the eldest son of Grand Duke Jean and Grand Duchess Joséphine-Charlotte. He and Grand Duchess Maria Teresa also have five children, the eldest of whom, Hereditary Grand Duke Prince Guillaume, has been undertaking representative duties as heir to the throne for quite

some time, and has been officially appointed to represent the Grand Duke since October 2024. Grand Duke Henri is committed to many social causes, and to nature. On both national and international levels, he is the patron of various foundations and institutions that focus on nature conservation and climate protection. Grand Duke Henri has nature in mind, especially right in front of his own castle door in the park that spans around 20 hectares.

Nature conservation from the heart

"As you can see, the meadow isn't being mowed right now. In the past, there was English lawn everywhere, but I wanted more biodiversity, no pesticides of course, and space for insects and other small animals. When I stroll here in the mornings, I often come across a family of foxes. The little ones are very curious and come quite close," reveals Grand Duke Henri with his characteristic gentle smile. A few steps further, busy bees buzz around some brightly marked beehives. The Grand Ducal bees produce between 200 and 300 kilograms of honey per year, and it sometimes travels with the Grand Duke as a gift for his guests. Conversely, the Grand Duke enjoys gathering gardening inspiration from around the world when on his travels, whether in Japan or England. It’s a constant exchange, a collection and a learning experience.

Another philosophy that can be sensed while accompanying the Grand Duke through his garden

The beehives can be found in the area of the garden where things starts to look a little wilder and there are no more flower beds.

The honey from the Grand Ducal garden makes an ideal gift during state visits.

Visitors arriving in the reception room of the Colmar-Berg castle are enchanted by a special charm. Historical photographs alternate with large-format paintings, captivating onlookers. Coffee and other drinks are skilfully presented on the serving table.

The past is always present at Berg Castle, whether in the historical photographs, the paintings or even the plants in the garden.

The roses are one of the centrepieces of the garden and some bear royal names. Her Royal Highness Maria Teresa's beloved peonies can also be found here.

One of the plants that particularly fascinates the Grand Duke and that he likes to show visitors is his tulip tree. There are actually two of them in the park in Colmar-Berg.

is 'never give up hope too soon'. A weeping willow, which stands on a small island in the middle of the castle pond, was supposed to be cut down a few years ago; it was totally bare at the time but not completely dead.

The principle of hope

"A small green branch was sticking out towards the top of the tree, in the middle, so I said to my father and the gardeners: 'Let’s cut the tree back and give it time'. And although everyone thought it was dead, the tree actually recovered," recalls the Grand Duke.

A meeting, a walk with the monarch is stimulating, pleasant and not intimidating at all; in fact, quite the opposite. Right from the start, Grand Duke Henri is warm and interested. A perfect example of openness, curiosity, and not least, a wealth of knowledge. Exotic-looking tulip trees, a beech tree that mysteriously has two different types of leaves, small, seemingly inconspicuous wild orchids in the tall grass that have nearly faded on this spring day... no detail seems to escape him; everything seems to interest him.

And this also applies to the rest of his country, which he criss-crosses by motorbike or, indeed, as a hiker on foot. "Once upon a time, I even used to go climbing, in Berdorf, in the Mullerthal region, but those days are over," says the youthful-looking almost 70-year-old, with a smile.

When we ask him where he likes travelling these days, he replies, "Every landscape, every region has its particular attraction, so I don't really have a favourite region. Our country is so diverse," he adds, after a brief pause for thought.

He naturally admires the impressive backdrop of the Mullerthal region with its mysterious caves,

On 23 June 2024, on the occasion of Luxembourg National Day, Grand Duke Henri announced that he intends to pass on his office as head of state to his eldest son Guillaume in October of this year. The prince is set to become Lieutenant-Representative, but this is not associated with an abdication on the part of the Grand Duke.

but he also likes to visit the Minett, also known as the Land of the Red Rocks, with its industrial landmarks and UNESCO Biosphere.

The diversity of Luxembourg

The delightful Moselle wine region has its special charm, and the Grand Duke is also very fond of the north of the country, especially the circular hiking routes around the Sûre Valley, and of course Vianden Castle.

He can often be seen in Luxembourg City and the surrounding Guttland region as his workplace

Every plant, no matter how inconspicuous it may be, has its place here and deserves respect.

Tips:

 The Luxembourg Urban Garden (LUGA) 2025 open-air exhibition will give visitors plenty of opportunities to discover the beauty of Luxembourg's gardens and landscape design. The gardens belonging to the Grand Ducal family are not part of the exhibition. www.luga.lu

 Which hiking trails does the Grand Duke particularly appreciate in the local area? All of the trails around Vianden Castle, for example, including the Éislek Pied, and the trails around the Sûre river.

www.visit-eislek.lu

 In the south of Luxembourg, the Grand Duke is fascinated by the UNESCO Biosphere in the Minett, a nature reserve located in the former industrial landscape. www.visitminett.lu

 The Grand Duke can also be spotted hiking in the Mullerthal region, for example near the climbing rocks in Berdorf or around the Huel Lee cave. www.mullerthal.lu

is located in the city centre, right in the heart of the old town. When his flag is raised at the palace, visitors know that he is there. The same applies when he is at his main residence, Berg Castle. Anyone who is in the area and sees the flag flying from outside the castle walls can be sure that Grand Duke Henri is home, and most likely taking a walk in the garden, if it happens to be morning.

 The Guttland.Trails lead hikers through gentle forest and meadow landscapes, inviting them to enjoy a moment of peace and tranquillity. www.visitguttland.lu

 In Luxembourg City, the Grand Duke's 'place to be' is naturally the Grand Ducal Palace, which attracts visitors from far and wide, and can be visited inside during the summer.

www.luxembourg-city.com

The tree in the middle of the pond seemed to be dead for ages, as it had barely any foliage. Grand Duke Henri was convinced that it was still alive – and he turned out to be right.

What do a wild man, a unicorn and a dragon have in common?

No, it’s not the start of a bad joke… these are all fixtures on buildings in Luxembourg City that are only visible by looking towards the sky.

Just look up!

Text NATALIE A. GERHARDSTEIN Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

Strolling is a wonderful way to indulge in architectural highlights or discover a city’s obscure alleys and passageways. But taking a different perspective by looking up affords a new way to discover details on buildings that can often reveal fascinating histories. Some features are more mysterious, steeped in legend than others…

Milly Theisen  has been a Luxembourg City Tourist Office guide since 1999 and is no stranger to odd questions about building features. Having lost her husband eight years ago, and since her children have all moved out, the empty-nester likes to keep busy as a guide: “I’m happy to come to the city and speak to different people with different nationalities and languages.” Her kind eyes, gentle demeanour and sense of humour make her well-suited for the role; her lavender-tinted hair and ankle tattoo give off an open, free-spirit vibe.

A new way to discover details

On this day, we’ve asked her to provide a bird’s eye view of Luxembourg City. It’s therefore fitting that the first building she chooses is nicknamed the “American Building”  on the corner of rue Notre Dame and rue Phillippe II, with its iconic eagle atop a dome. Her finger pointed upwards, Milly explains that here once stood a travel and emigration office (Derulle-Wigreux).

In fact, Ernest Derulle (18511912) was an American consular agent who represented the Red Star Line and helped people get documents to go to the U.S. For Milly, the eagle is a good example of how, historically, it was important that buildings could be seen through images and not just addresses; literacy rates at the time were not as high as they are today.

Down the road is the NotreDame Cathedral . Children, Milly notes, often ask about interesting parts of structures. She likes to point out to them the statue of Saint Nicholas, bringer of gifts on his feast day, on the cathedral’s exterior.

Inside, Milly takes a seat and points to the ornate, alabaster organ tribune, credited to German sculptor Daniel Muller, who died in 1623. Angels are clearly visible within the floral motif, but perhaps less seen by visitors is the dragon hanging upside-down below the organ . Meanwhile, Milly points out the horizontal reeds, generally indicative of Spanish organs.

Changing perspectives

Back outside the cathedral, Milly leads the way to the Grand Ducal Palace. En route, across from the Chambre des Députés (Luxembourg’s parliament), is an art installation that’s easy to overlook, unless

you’re looking up: the illuminated faces of the “Cinq bons Esprits”, created by Ingo Maurer, designed so that their gazes follow passers-by. Before revealing the many highlights of the Grand Ducal Palace itself –including past heads of state  and ornate chimneys  – she pops into the short passageway just off the rue de la Reine. Visible behind the gate is La Maison de Raville , home of the noble de Raville (von Rollingen) family, erected in 1575. As Milly notes, the site once had an unobstructed view of the palace (first erected as the city hall in 1572), and its balcony gives a good indication of what the original one at the palace may have looked like. At the base of the balcony are heads of a sheep and a lion, the former worn down so much so as to be nearly unrecognisable.

Iron anchors in house facades

Milly also enjoys showing off some of the features of the former Palais de la Justice  on the street of the same name. The building now houses the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs, but its history as a courthouse is evident in the designs, including the scales of justice. It’s easy to imagine how passers-by of yesteryear had a

clear view of criminals being led into the building, given the ample space in front of and adjacent to it.

Heading from the former courthouse down to rue Wiltheim is a bit dizzying if you’re still facing upward – but it’s worth it! There’s plenty to see on the upper parts of buildings in this area – from the iron anchors in house facades, designed to support the beams inside, to the mysterious “wild man”  hovering over those strolling by. It was near this wild man, Milly explains, that a café once stood. If you look closely, you might also notice (also throughout other locations in the capital) street “pixel” art above the rooftops by an artistic duo known as IPDO, who often incorporate real or fictional characters, like Smurfs.

Revealing hidden stories

There are faded shop window signs, hints of past architectural elements that are no longer functional as you curve along the National Museum of History and Art toward the historic heart of the “Fëschmaart” (fish market). By reading the names of street signs, it’s possible to guess at their historical purposes. Milly explains that fish from the Alzette were indeed sold here, but the market expanded to include products like wool and fabrics. Similarly, pharmacies were often named (and some still are) after animals, like the unicorn on rue du Curé (see photo on the opener pages 36+37).

Continuing along the rue de la Loge is one of the most iconic turrets in Luxembourg, featuring the national motto, “Mir wölle bleiwe wat mir sin” (“We want to remain what we are”) , stemming from an 1859 patriotic song titled “De Feierwon”. Just metres away from that, a freemason symbol is visible above the entranceway of the Grand Lodge of Luxembourg.

Discovering new elements

Among the final mysteries on the walk is the “cannonball” lodged into the St Michael’s Church tower. Here Milly runs into a fellow LCTO guide. The two discuss the church’s tumultuous history: a fire destroyed much of it in 1679, repairs were done. Then France, under Louis XIV’s leadership, invaded; the church suffered bombardments. While some believe the cannonball lodged high is a remnant of that, others are sceptical, thinking it was just a design element during the last reconstruction of the building.

But that’s the fun in changing perspectives, discovering new elements. Whether it’s in higgledy-piggledy places like Vianden or Clervaux or in the oldest town of Echternach, be sure to look up and discover something new!

More strolls:

 The Wenzel Circular Walk takes you on a tour of what is essentially Luxembourg’s biggest open-air museum. The starting point for the 5.5 km walk is the ruins of the former castle of the Counts of Luxembourg and the adjoining archaeological crypt – the birthplace of the city and the country. In three hours, you will explore the medieval ramparts and the remains of the fortress. Don’t miss: the Bock Casemates.

 The 4.6 km Mansfeld Circular Walk takes you in and around the district of Clausen, with its many architectural gems dating back to the time of Count Mansfeld, who became a prince in 1517 and was made Governor of the Duchy of Luxembourg (1540) and then of the Netherlands (1590). Follow the ‘M’ arrows to explore winding lanes, hidden staircases and 19th-century walls. This is a great three-hour tour with some amazing views!

 Are you a fan of military history? If you are fascinated by the city’s last fortifications – how they were built and which parts were most strategically important –then the Vauban Circular Walk is for you. The walk is named after engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, who was responsible for the reconstruction work after the fortified city was captured by the French. The work carried out by Vauban earned the city its reputation as an impregnable fortress – it was known as the Gibraltar of the North.

 Or maybe you just want to go for a walk that will give you a wonderful panoramic view over Luxembourg City? In that case, head for the Chemin de la Corniche, described as Europe’s most beautiful balcony by Luxembourg writer Batty Weber. The walk takes you along the ramparts built in the 17th century by the Spanish and the French, running parallel with the Alzette valley. www.luxembourg-city.com

Oases of calm

The demands of modern life can quickly drain our energy reserves, making it all the more vital to restore our inner balance – whether on a journey exploring the beauty of Luxembourg or as a local in search of a quiet retreat. Emotion coach Kim Henn offers guidance by introducing her personal sanctuaries in nature, places of solace and renewal.

Text CAROLE THEISEN Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

There are places in Luxembourg that seem to have leapt straight out of a storybook. Emotion coach Kim Henn has selected four of these magical places such as the “Pëttener Waasserbuerg” near Mersch.

“It’s about heightening awareness of our bodies and allowing repressed emotions to surface,” explains emotion coach Kim Henn. “Often, due to upbringing and societal expectations, we lose touch with our bodies and our feelings. We function instead of feeling,” she says. “My work helps people become more conscious of their bodily sensations, creating not only relief but also a deeper connection to themselves.”

To further deepen this inner journey and heighten awareness of one’s own sensations, Luxembourg offers enchanting spots that feel as though they’ve leapt from the pages of a storybook. Kim Henn has handpicked four of these extraordinary places for you to explore.

A paradise of diversity

The journey begins in the “Giele Botter” nature reserve in Differdange. Once an iron ore mining site, nature has since reclaimed this land, transforming it into a serene landscape. “I love this place,” Kim Henn says, “I found it during a time of uncertainty, and being here helped me organise my thoughts and rediscover my creativity.”

The “Giele Botter” enchants with its rich flora and fauna. Moss covers the rocks like soft, green carpets while frogs and birds sing in harmony, soothing the soul. Here, you can meander along winding trails or explore hidden paths for a touch of adventure. Resting in a meadow, eyes closed, you are wrapped in a blanket of calm and security. “It’s as if you turn down the volume of

life,” Kim describes, “a place where the senses come alive, and the soul finds peace.”

A transformative experience

Kim’s approach to guiding people towards inner peace through the harmony of body and mind finds its ideal setting here. “It’s about shedding the pressures of daily life and experiencing the freedom to just be yourself,” Kim explains. “Nature gives us the space and quiet we often miss, providing room to listen inward.”

Kim Henn’s journey to becoming a full-time emotion coach began unexpectedly a few years ago, following a turning point in her life. She spontaneously decided to attend a five-day retreat in Portugal. What started as a curious excursion quickly became a transformative experience. “It was about activating the body through

breath and then releasing what we hold back – screaming, punching pillows. It was incredibly liberating.”

This intense physical and emotional work opened up new perspectives for Kim. “When you work only with the mind, there’s a tendency to overanalyse and try to understand everything,” she explains. “Working with the body is different. You don’t have to understand what’s happening– it just happens.” This insight led her to delve deeper into somatic work and embodiment. “What I do is give people space to feel what they might struggle to feel on their own,” she says. “Feelings can be overwhelming. It’s comforting to not have to climb that mountain alone but to do it together.”

The journey through nature’s sanctuaries continues. Further north, nestled among vast fields near Mersch, lies the centuries-old, romantic “Eenelter Kapell”. Though unassum-

The former open-cast mining area “Prënzebierg-Giele Botter” has been a nature reserve for over 30 years. Nature has reclaimed this land, creating new biological habitats.

Even in the heart of the city, there are places and moments perfect for rediscovering one’s center. The lush greenery soothes the eye and mind.

The “Dräi Eechelen” park in the Kirchberg business district is located just behind the Philharmonie surrounding the MUDAM and Fort Thüngen. Designed by Michel Desvigne, the park offers a splendid panoramic view of the old town, merging modernity with history, valley with plateau, medieval structures, and skyscrapers of the contemporary metropolis.

History echoes throughout the “Dräi Eechelen” park, as the nearby museum of the same name is housed in a restored and partially reconstructed section of Fort Thüngen.

ing in appearance, this chapel holds a rich history dating back to early Christian times and was declared a national monument in 2021. Yet, there is more to this place than its historical significance.

Surrounded by what Kim calls a “fairy garden”, she walks barefoot through a wild, natural maze of flowers, trees, and hedges, leading up a hill. From there, sweeping views

of endless fields, blooming meadows, and distant villages instil a sense of boundless freedom in the body. “The ‘Eenelter Kapell’ feels like a gateway to another world,” Kim enthuses. “It’s like stepping into a fantasy realm without ever leaving reality.”

Ancient stone facades

Just a stone’s throw from the “Eenelter Kapell”, the ruins of the “Pëttener Waasserbuerg” rise up in the heart of the village of Pettingen. Originally, this imposing water castle was built for defence, once surrounded by broad moats to fend off attackers. Today, the moats are dry, but the walls are cloaked in wild grass and flowers sprouting from the ancient stone. It gives the place a uniquely romantic charm.

The large green courtyard, surrounded by the massive castle walls, offers a peaceful retreat. “Once I step inside the castle walls, I feel wrapped in a sense of security, as if completely shielded from the outside world and all its influences,” Kim describes. Despite the urban surroundings, one can settle here, letting the mind wander while observing history and nature harmoniously intertwine.

Historic views

Our last stop takes Kim into the bustling Kirchberg district, where a hidden gem awaits history lovers: the “Parc du Musée Dräi Eechelen.” This park, nestled around its namesake museum and adjacent to the Philharmonie and Mudam, sits on a restored and partially reconstructed part of the historic Fort Thüngen. Visitors are treated to a fascinating journey through Luxembourg’s past, recalling a time when the

The ruin of the “Pëttener Waasserbuerg” is a former medieval water fortress, once surrounded by 15-metre-wide moats, which are now dry.

The large green courtyard, surrounded by the fortress’s massive walls and the dried moats, provides a peaceful retreat where history and nature blend harmoniously.

city was fortified by mighty walls. Descending into the lower parts of the park, through the fort’s underground passages, reveals a breathtaking panorama of the old town, blending medieval charm with modernity. Rarely crowded, this park is “a classic among Luxembourg’s retreats”, offering an awe-inspiring view that invites reflection and a fresh perspective on one’s worries. Enclosed by protective walls, historical grounds, and lush vegetation, this place offers a unique form of calm

and contemplation, Kim adds. “The walls make you feel held, while the vast view frees your mind.”

Luxembourg’s hidden oases not only provide a welcome escape from daily life but also an opportunity for self-discovery and inner peace. “It’s often the little things that make a big difference,” Kim says. “A deep breath, the warmth of the sun on your skin, or simply listening to nature’s sounds – all of these can have a transformative effect.”

More nature retreats:

In addition to the four featured places, Luxembourg offers numerous other spots inviting peace and relaxation:

 Pétrusse Park and Merl Park in the capital are further natural oases in the middle of the urban context that offer a refreshing break from city life. www.luxembourg-city.com

 In Kockelscheuer , south of the capital, the natur&ëmwelt nature reserve allows visitors to experience nature up close, observing animals like donkeys, goats, chickens, and rabbits. Located at the forest’s edge, this area is ideal for peaceful walks. www.naturemwelt.lu

 Historical sites such as Useldange Castle , a medieval castle in the village of Useldange in the west of Luxembourg, or the castle of Ansembourg in central Luxembourg, part of the Valley of the Seven Castles, offer a captivating blend of history and nature. www.visitluxembourg.com

Connecting with nature, touching wood, stone, green leaves, taking a deep breath: all of this can have a transformative effect.

Et plongez dans les coulisses de production de vos bières et eau minérale favorites !

cours de brassage

cours de débit

Sweet or salty?

Cinema experiences extend far beyond the grandeur of multiplex theatres. There’s a delightful and often surprising charm to small cinemas, where film screenings transform into enchanting encounters. In these cosy, intimate settings, the magic of the silver screen comes alive in a truly unique way.

Text CAROLE THEISEN Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

Guiding us on this cinematic journey is Céline Schlesser, a young assistant director and set decorator. From her earliest days, Céline dreamed of making films: “I originally wanted to be an actress,” she recalls. “My uncle works in the film industry, and he took me to my first film premiere in 2016 or 2017.” This experience sparked her profound passion for cinema. Today, at just 23, Céline has already contributed to around 20 films, fulfilling her long-held dream.

Céline dreams of becoming a director, crafting films with strong political or activist messages. “Sometimes, when I watch movies on TV, I think, ‘How does this come together?’ And then, when I’m on set, seeing every department collaborate, I think, ‘Wow! We’ve created this beautiful story together!’” Her passion and dedication are truly inspiring as we explore Luxembourg’s charming small cinemas alongside her. Our journey begins up north in Diekirch.

Luxembourg’s most colourful cinema

Nestled on a former wood industry site lies Ciné Scala, Luxembourg’s largest small cinema. A bright, spacious foyer welcomes visitors before they enter one of the five cinema halls, each unique within Luxembourg, thanks to their vibrant, colourful cinema seats. “You’ll only find this here!” beams cinema director Nadine Petit. Ciné Scala values comfort

deeply. “We sacrificed a few seats to install luxurious, spacious ones that offer a bit more room,” explains Nadine. When it opened in 2017, Ciné Scala also introduced the first Dolby Atmos sound system in the area, following Brussels, Cologne, and Paris. “This is a cinema experience you can’t recreate at home. When a helicopter flies from left to right in a film, it feels as if it’s really moving through the room,” Nadine enthuses.

Ciné Scala takes special pride in supporting Luxembourgish film productions. “We provide a worthy stage for Luxembourgish films and co-productions, even if they don’t attract hundreds of viewers,” Nadine emphasises. This philosophy especially benefits young filmmakers like Céline Schlesser, who finds in Ciné Scala a valuable platform to showcase her work to a wider audience. Incidentally, Ciné Scala is open 364 days a year, only closing on the day of the Diekirch Cavalcade.

Next, we travel to Echternach. Hidden in the charming streets of Luxembourg’s oldest city lies an inconspicuous entrance leading to a winding passageway that slowly reveals another world.

Family spirit in Echternach

Walls adorned with vintage movie posters and soft lighting guide the way. With each step down this passage, the outside world fades away until one finally arrives at Ciné Sura’s cosy screening room. The cinema showcases

Céline Schlesser particularly appreciates the affordable prices at Ciné Sura: “Here, they truly care about what’s best for the cinema – that people keep coming.”

an impressive range of films, from blockbusters and family-friendly features to arthouse films, and both French and Luxembourgish productions. Yet, it’s the many lovingly organised events that truly set this cinema apart. “We offer breakfast cinema, Halloween events, New Year’s Eve celebrations with home-cooked buffets, and a hugely popular drive-in cinema by Echternach Lake,” says manager Sandra.

Recently, however, Ciné Sura was faced with a major challenge. The old projector was no

longer reliable and threatened to bring cinema operations to a standstill. Without new technical equipment, the Ciné Sura would probably have been forced to close its doors. In response, the cinema launched a crowdfunding campaign, which turned out to be a remarkable success. Thanks to generous donations from across the region, including Germany, France, and Belgium, the necessary funds for a new projector and screen were raised. “The support was incredible,” Sandra says.

This rescue operation not only secured the future of the cinema, but also demonstrated the significance that this small theatre still holds within the community. Ciné Sura is more than just a cinema – it is a labour of love and a family enterprise, with this familial spirit filling every corner of the theatre.

Ciné Sura also offers the space for private events, from wedding films to bachelor parties. “We’ve had all kinds of events here, even a bachelor party with a stripper dancing in front of the screen,” Sandra laughs. “I could write a book.”

Art and cinema combined

Next, we venture to Ciné Starlight in Dudelange, a place where films are not only shown but also celebrated for their artistry and significance. “We often organise cinema conferences and personal receptions, where films are discussed and explored in depth. For Luxembourgish films in particular, we invite the film crew so the audience can ask questions and engage in conversation. That’s the charm of small cinemas – the closeness to people,” explains Yves Steichen of the Centre national de l’audiovisuel (CNA).

But in times when home cinemas are becoming more and more affordable, cinemas are facing a particular challenge. “So much heart and soul goes into these productions,” says Yves Steichen. “Cinemas must offer something that people don’t have at home. Before or after the film, you can visit an exhibition or dine at our restaurant or at the nearby Kantin,” suggests CNA manager Gilles Zeimet. An extraordinary feature is the ceiling of the main theatre, adorned with glowing constellations. This romantic and whimsical touch is not only captivating but also the origin of the name Ciné Starlight.

Ciné Sura is a labour of love and a family venture. Sandra’s mother worked at the cinema over twenty years ago and regularly brought her children to work with her.

It’s not just the technical highlights and exquisite comfort that make the Ciné Scala so special. In Diekirch, the social aspect is also highly valued. “Customer feedback means a lot to us,” explains Nadine Petit.

In addition to the film screenings at Ciné Starlight, visitors can enjoy exhibitions at the Centre national de l’audiovisuel (CNA) or the nearby Pomhouse and Waassertuerm.

The Kinoler (the cinema in Kahler) is indeed the smallest cinema in Luxembourg. It is run exclusively by volunteers, such as Marc Barnig, one of the initiators and volunteers of the Kinoler project.

Dudelange also has a significant Italian community. “Films that address migration, particularly the Italian migrant experience, resonate with a special audience here,” Steichen shares. Such films connect deeply with many residents’ experiences and serve as a mirror to their own stories.

Small but charming

The last stop on our tour of the small cinemas takes us to the “Kinoler” – a play on the word “cinema” (Luxembourgish: Kino) and the name of the village of Kahler (Luxembourgish: Koler), the smallest cinema in Luxembourg. Upon entering the village, visitors are immediately drawn to the colourful spray-painted buildings, walls and even cowsheds. These artworks were created by Alain Welter, a graffiti artist born and raised in Kahler. When Kinoler opened its doors in the former fire station in 2018, it was only natural that Welter should also be given the opportunity to design the cinema. “He had a free hand,” says Marc Barnig, one of the initiators and volunteers of the Kinoler project.

Despite its small size, Kinoler offers top-notch amenities with cosy leather seats and an old-fashioned curtain in front of the screen. “From the beginning, we wanted to invest in quality,” says Marc. “Even though we’re the smallest cinema, we still have a Dolby Atmos sound system.” The theatre is operated solely by volunteers, including

many seniors who find meaningful social engagement here.

“People even come from the city, saying, ‘It’s so much cosier here. People are more relaxed, and you can have a chat.’” This intimate and friendly environment attracts many visitors, and for big films the cinema is often sold out before the film is even screened. Marc Barnig, who devotes almost ten hours a week to Kinoler in addition to his regular job, summarises it well: “It’s a wonderful way to come together and experience films as a community. We offer something that the big cinemas can’t – a personal and homely atmosphere.”

In essence, these small cinemas are much more than places to watch films – they’re gathering spots for film enthusiasts and culture lovers alike, providing a cosy atmosphere and a truly personal cinematic experience. Now, there’s just one question left: sweet or salty? How do you like your popcorn?

Cinema Tips:

 Find all practical information about the cinemas featured in this story on their websites: www.cinescala.lu, www.cinesura.lu, www.kinoler.lu, www.cinestarlight.lu. In addition to these charming small cinemas, you can also enjoy movies at the Kinepolis Group’s larger multiplex theaters: www.kinepolis.lu

 Free and outdoors: In summer, the City Open Air Cinema presented by the Luxembourg Cinémathèque takes place on Place Guillaume II (Knuedler) in the heart of the city centre. www.vdl.lu

 Right next to the CNA, with its Ciné Starlight, lies the “Neischmelz” industrial heritage site. At the foot of the water tower in the cooling pond, you’ll find the “Floater”, one of the Kabaisercher hiking lodges specially designed to accommodate hikers along the Minett Trail www.minetttrail.lu

Luxembourg has a remarkable variety of themed playgrounds that will enchant any visitor of any age group in some of the most beautiful locations of the country.

Travel blogger Elfi and her daughters went on the ultimate playground tour to check out the boundless themes!

Play, Laugh, Dream!

“Neverland of Peter Pan must have a lot of playgrounds like these,” my 9-year-old says while running around trying to figure out what she should try first: the slides or the swings? And her eyes sparkle with joy.

We are at the playground in Mersch by the beautiful pond, the sun is shining, and the birds are singing. We come here quite often when we are not off exploring Luxembourg’s many other playgrounds.

As a travel blogger and mother, I often think that Luxembourg has a remarkable variety of themed playgrounds. They offer visitors the possibility to enjoy, to relax, to try, to explore, to spend quality time with friends and family but also to organise picnics and even birthday parties. The

additional amenities like toilets, picnic tables, shaded areas, water games and even free distribution of potable water and sun cream, provide a safe, playful and stressfree experience. Luxembourg playgrounds are also a place to meet and mingle with other families and of course a great opportunity for the children and adults to make new friends.

My thoughts are interrupted as my daughter invites me to push her at the zip line. “So much fun! I wish I could come here every day!” Indeed, I think, feeling happy to see my children happy.

“That’s it!” I say with excitement. “We will do a project but I need your help: I will show you pictures of the playgrounds we have visited and you will try to remember their names and we write them all down along with what you remember and what you loved the most about each playground.” Here is the result.

Ahoy!

All aboard!

Pirate Ship Playground, Luxembourg City  +  : “I remember driving the big boat,” the little one says, “and playing with water.” This playground in the Luxembourg City Municipal Park will transport its visitors, especially the children, into a world of pirates and mermaids. Happy feet on the soft sand, water themed games just next to the pirate ship, rubber wheels as swings, the areas for toddlers,

and also the slides will bring hours of joy to the children. During our last visit to this beautiful playground I noticed a little boy playing dressed as a pirate. Cutest thing ever, I thought, and said to my children, “so next time you visit why not dress up as pirates?” Fun!

Needless to say, this playground is in walking proximity from the city centre so it can be perfectly combined with your visit to the capital – with or without a pirate hat.

Water on!

Water playground, Mullerthal +  : “My favourite!” says my oldest, “to play with water is all I want on a sunny, warm day.” She points out that during our first visit to this playground, she couldn’t believe her eyes: so many different installations for water games!

Nested in the beautiful area of Waldbillig in the Mullerthal, also known as “Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland” and home to the region’s iconic Schéissendëmpel waterfall, this playground has the power to give you a happy mood, to exhaust you in the most positive way and to refresh you at the same time. Perfect for families that hike in the Mullerthal area to rest, perfect for the day visitors to explore it, perfect for those that love to go back again and again just to sense the water on their face and body.

“Can we move closer to this playground, please, Mum?...” Luckily, we move on to the forest playground now and maybe we need to move there too… who knows?

A castle in the woods

Forest Playground, Strassen :

If you have not visited Luxembourg before, you may not realise how abundant nature is here. You may not realise how many majestic forests exist… “I remember that the playground appeared amongst the trees quite unexpected, and I just ran towards it...” that’s how my oldest describes the Forest Playground in Strassen.

This playground blends harmoniously with the tall trees; the green colours of nature and the natural brown of the wooden structures are a perfect match, here children can enjoy not only the playground structures but also nature. Small miracles around them: flowers, and plants and the quietness of the forest only interrupted by the happy voices of the children. “Mummy look, a butterfly,” I hear my kids saying while I

am enjoying the sun on my face. This time it is me who asks the children, “can we move here for ever please?” and we all giggle.

Airport Playground, Cents: Cries of “I will drive the plane” can only mean one thing: we have landed at the Airport Playground in Cents. This is the playground where I wish every time to become a child again. Climbing the air traffic control tower, entering the airplane, children will enjoy deeply the learning with fun that happens in this playground.

Little pilots running around, all wanting to fly the plane, let the imagination of the children run free here, ask them where they would love to travel and why, and what their best ever holiday would look like. Don’t you just love places that help you and your children bond? And if there is a fear of airplanes, here you can talk about it safely and in good spirits.

Firefighters on a mission

Fire Brigade Playground, Niederanven: This playground is quite hidden, built in a purely residential area, it is a “secret” that deserves to be revealed.

“I think firemen and firewomen deserve all our love,” says my youngest one while asking if she can become also a firewoman in the future. “Of course,” I say in an encouraging voice, “you can even volunteer as one anytime.” There is a soft breeze in the air that makes me notice how the

leaves of the tress move and how rich, thick, soft and green the grass on this playground is. The dominant colour of this playground is of course red and there is even beautiful graffiti in the theme. The big trees graciously offer their shade. The wooden structures and the big slide are very inviting. In this playground, children love to role-play, and discover what an important service the fire brigade offers.

From outer space

Space Playground Kaltreis, Bonnevoie: “I will definitely be the first one of the family to become an astronaut.” If you also hear this or similar from your children, you must definitely take them to the Space Theme Playground at the Park Kaltreis in Bonnevoie. With its water games, open air gym, a spacethemed slide coming out of another planet as well as nearby parking, this playground is an all-round winner. Kids will not want to leave once they discover the water games.

It is also the perfect playground to bring along some spacethemed children’s books and games with you as kids learn better when they are having fun. The perfect setting to learn more about space, astronauts, and planets in a fun and playful way.

Traffic Playground, Capellen: Landing the spaceship safely, we take our bikes and scooters and head to the Traffic Playground in Capellen. “Let’s drive together but take different routes!” “No, I will be the pedestrian and you the car driver.” Learning to drive

and learning circulation rules was never more fun! The signs, the road markings are like the reallife ones, and the setting is just perfect. Like normal road infrastructure, on a smaller scale. The playground next to it is a huge open space with many different structures, pétanque fields and even a climbing wall. Extra tip: In Capellen you can also find the Luxembourg Police Museum.

Jump, slide, swing and climb

Mersch Playground  +  :

Happy day? Head over to Mersch Playground. Stressful day? Head over to Mersch Playground. This playground holds a special place in my heart. From the very first moment you arrive you know you are somewhere special. Surrounded by tall trees and beautiful flowers, the little paths guide you to different corners of the playground. Areas for the very small ones and toddlers, to areas where bigger kids can let their energy flow, very creative playing structures offering different sensations.

We walk through the playground to head over to the pond, to the small wooden bridge that enters the water and gives you the opportunity to stand in the middle of it observing the birds and the ducks. The colours of the sky are magical; pink, purple, yellow and red... “Mummy, we loved it here, we shall come with our friends next time too, they will also love it...”

Echternach Lake Playground  :

The beautiful lake of Echternach invites children and families to

explore, to play, to relax, to enjoy. At a fantastic location and not far from the trampolines of the Youth Hostel that are present every summer for endless fun, this playground has everything!

For smaller and bigger children, with sanitary facilities just next to the playground, with the Roman Villa overlooking the playground, and just next to the lake this playground will be your family’s favorite. And not often you will find in one place: swimming, water activities, playground, archaeological site, hiking paths, and nice youth hostel with climbing walls and trampolines. “Will Echternach playground always be here for us to come back?” Yes it will.

Unlock the fun

Rosport Adventure and Water Playground: For many families and children, this is the best water playground in Luxembourg. “Time to go children.” Oops not yet…here we always stay longer. No one wants to leave. The water structures and games at this playground are absolutely amazing. The trees offer plenty of shade, there is free parking and the setting by the river is dreamy.

A promise of “We will come back again soon” is the only way to put the kids in the car and return home. And we know we will.

Merl Park Playground: So many nice memories here…The Merl Park Playground will never be empty at any time of the year; it is the meeting point for many families that live near the city. A playground that has many structures for different age groups, a great zip line, basketball courts just next to it, and a smaller water area.

Here is where many children took their first steps, rode their first bicycles, made their first “playground friends” and found out they were becoming big siblings. Merl Park Playground is a vibrant community of families and children, a real oasis of tranquillity, happiness and joy in the heart of the city.

Pure happiness!

Walferdange Playground: A slide from the future or a futuristic slide, a creative ground trampoline shape, free potable water and sun cream dispensers, sandpit, swings, picnic tables and more… “It is very unique,” says my 9-yearold and I get exactly what she is trying to say. Not the biggest one you can find in Luxembourg but definitely one of the best ones. “I made a new friend, Mum” and I love this “music” to my ears. The story starts now: make your own list with your children of favourite playgrounds and fill it with laughter, joy, excitement and fun learning.

More family and fun adventures:

 An important note for parents is that playgrounds are regularly maintained and inspected by designated authorities to ensure the safety of children and their caregivers.

 In Luxembourg, there are many more cool places to discover for families. Go climbing in one of the big indoor climbing parks, visit interesting museums, follow great hiking paths especially for families, discover an aquarium or the famous butterfly garden! You can find more family and fun adventures on our website! www.visitluxembourg.com

TheRoadAbroad

TheRoadAbroad

Mullerthal's living geologic past

Part of the UNESCO Global Geoparks network, Luxembourg’s Mullerthal is a favourite amongst nature-lovers for its stunning sandstone formations, gorges and waterfalls. For those with a trained eye, its features reveal not only fascinating geomorphological processes but also how geology has played a key role in the region’s development.

The numerous mills along its rivers and streams gave its name to the Mullerthal region. At the Huel Lee, which translates to “hollow stone”, curved marks on the interior of this man-made cave indicate where millstones were once extracted.

It might be hard to imagine the Triassic or Jurassic periods, when dinosaurs roamed the Earth, but the Mullerthal is a good place to try. On that crisp summer day, Birgit`s, Conny`s and Robert`s walk through the Mullerthal begins at the Huel Lee, which translates to “hollow stone”. It’s a geosite reachable via the E1 local hiking trail, the Berdorf circular and Route 2 of the Mullerthal Trail.

Birgit Kausch is head of the geology department and nature school at the Mullerthal geopark, and Robert Weis is a research assistant at the Luxembourg National Museum of Natural History (MNHN) with a specialisation on the geological heritage of Luxembourg. Together with Conny Koob of the Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdal, they help visitors to learn more about the fascinating rock formations in the region and what can be gleaned from them.

They all share their passion for hiking in the area, praising the region’s features. But they encourage us to take a moment to consider that the passage of time for a geologist is very different…

A bigger picture

Before heading out, they explain that concepts like “deep time” can be difficult even for geologists to wrap their heads around. Birgit seems in awe of it, saying with a smile: “What fascinates me when we speak about deep time is that all particles, all elements, have been around since the beginning of our solar system.” Consider it a sort of recycling of materials which have moved throughout space and time,

as a result of various forces, be they plate tectonics, waterway currents, or simply gravity.

From our vantage point, under a lush canopy, Robert scans the landscape. “The rocks we see in the Mullerthal have been deposited as sediments 200 to 250 million years ago,” he says. He’s so fascinated by the various geosites the trail network offers that he, an avid writer and published author, is working on a publication with fellow Italian author and “geopoet”, Davide Sapienza, about the Mullerthal.

Luxembourg during the time period Robert indicates was part of “a shallow sea in the margin of the so-called Paris Basin, which was a sea with some islands to the north, where the Ardennes lie, more or less.” The dolomite, sandstone and marl (a carbonate-rich, whitish material) that are visible in the region today were once part of the seabed. Rivers flowed and deposited sediments into the sea and, through the process of diagenesis (the formation

of rocks), sand that had been deposited, for instance, became sandstone. By the middle Jura, the sea had disappeared, and rivers carved through the landscape, creating the cliffs, plateaus and valleys unique to this area. Robert calls the sandstone in the Mullerthal “iconic”, in part because it has special “erosional” formations as a result of the last Ice Age: “The landscape is roughly 10,000 to 15,000 years old in the form we see it nowadays.”

The valley of the mills

Curved marks on the interior of this man-made cave indicate where millstones were once extracted. With simple taps on the interior walls, Birgit and Robert size up the density of the rock in various locations.

The Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall is one of 213 UNESCO Global Geoparks in 48 countries.

The rocky overhangs in the valley below Huel Lee provide welcome shade in the warmer months. The rock face, meanwhile, appears to have several distinct sections: an upper layering of beiges and whites with a more creviced, mossy base.

The history of the Mullerthal begins around 245 million years ago, in a sea. Countless particles of sand and others were deposited and solidified into rock. The sea disappeared, and rivers shaped the impressive rocky landscape of the Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall we see today.

As Birgit explains, a millstone would first be roughly chiselled, and then a wooden wedge inserted behind it which, when soaked, expanded, causing the millstone to break off. It’s believed that the Romans already used the site as a quarry, although the extractions mainly happened during the Middle Ages. Mullerthal, in fact, means “valley of the mills”, and there were over 60 mills powered by the extensive waterways that carve through the region.

Descending from Huel Lee into the valley, the rocky overhangs provide welcome shade in the warmer months. The rock face, meanwhile, appears to have several distinct sections: an upper layering of beiges and whites with a more creviced, mossy base. If you use your imagination, the middle section appears like a set of jagged molars, biting into the lower section.

The horizontal lines above have a clearly visible ripple pattern, and these were layers that were sedimented by the current. “The dynamics of the sand transport makes these kinds of structures,” Birgit explains. The crevices in the lower section, meanwhile, were likely made when lime-rich content was washed away by the current.

Reading the rocks

Archaeologists like the lime content found in the region, she adds. The high lime content of the Luxembourg sandstone means it can keep bones well-preserved – in the case of the Loschbour man, for instance, a Homo sapiens specimen from the European Mesolithic period, discovered in 1935 under a rock shelter in the Mullerthal and today on display at the MNHN.

The Mullerthal Region is above all a unique biotope characterised by sandstone rock formations which are as beguiling as surprising.

As Conny explains, the Huel Lee geosite is simple to combine with the Wollefsschlucht (“Wolf’s Gorge”) in Echternach – a gorge that was formed by a landslide as a result of sandstone weight on top and Sûre River erosion on a lower slope – an event still visible through its jagged contour lines.

Other geosites in the region are just as exciting – Birgit has photographed many of them through her work with the geopark.

Take, for instance, the “Champignon” (mushroom) sandstone formation in Nommern. As the name would suggest, this sandstone boulder, found along the N4 hiking trail, has been weathered away and appears like a toadstool amongst the sandy grassland speckled with heather. The site was labelled geosite of the year in 2021, and around the mushroom formation can be found polishing grooves – traces of humans in the Stone Age, when they sharpened tools here.

Encouraging geotourism

There’s also the stunning Schéissendëmpel waterfall, where on warmer days it’s common to find visitors cooling their feet in the pool below. It’s reachable along the Mullerthal Trail Route 3 or via the local hiking trails W6 and W7, the latter of which can be combined with a visit to the Heringer Millen tourist centre, a 17th century mill still in working condition, where bread is baked in the old tradition in an antique stove. The waterfall is indeed an

Mysterious caves and gorges, narrow rocky ravines, dense woodlands criss-crossed by rushing streams, extraordinary biotopes and an amazing variety of plants and trees: welcome to the Mullerthal Region.

The horizontal lines above have a clearly visible ripple pattern, and these were layers that were sedimented by the current. “The dynamics of the sand transport makes these kinds of structures,” Birgit Kausch of the Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall explains.

icon in the region, but Conny urges people to look closer at the bridge, explaining, “There are some amazing pieces of art in the rocks. For example, you can discover a [carved] snail.”

Unique natural and cultural heritage

Imagination can, indeed, go a long way when it comes to envisioning what the landscape would have looked like eons ago – making many of these geosites particularly fascinating (and pedagogically valuable!) for youngsters. The Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall regularly holds kid-friendly workshops and hikes. In 2024, the Beaufort Geo-Pad (“geo path”) was inaugurated. It has 14 partly interactive stations across 5 km – a tour that can be combined with a visit to the Geo-Expo, which showcases the region’s unique natural and cultural heritage and reveals human traces in the area, from the Stone Age to modern times.

But Luxembourg travellers can even explore the Mullerthal from Luxembourg City. The Loschbour man display at the MNHN is amongst youngsters’ favourites: not just for the skeleton itself, but for the miniature display showcasing the gravesite of those hunters and gatherers. Robert knows a great deal about the fossils on display at the museum, of course, and regularly writes about the specimens found in Luxembourg. Recently, for instance, he was part of the team that researched the “vampire squid” fossil found in Käerjeng in southwestern Luxembourg which had not just fossilised

food remnants in the specimen but was also found with fossilised ink!

Like a treasure trove

It might surprise some, however, that the Mullerthal isn’t a hotspot for fossils. But towards the end of our walk, Birgit and Robert remain open-minded about this: just because there haven’t been discoveries yet doesn’t mean there won’t be! As Robert puts it: “It’s thanks to geology that the Mullerthal is like a treasure trove… and there are still many things hidden in the forest, under the rocks, that might be discovered in the future.”

Tips:

 The Mullerthal Trail takes the experienced hiker on 112 km of valley trails through a magnificent rocky landscape. www.mullerthal-trail.lu

 Thanks to its geological legacy and the enormous variety of plants, the Nature- & Geopark Mëllerdall was awarded with the UNESCO Global Geopark label in 2022. www.naturpark-mellerdall.lu

Deep valleys and imposing rocks: often referred to as Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland, the Mullerthal Region owes its name to its hilly landscape reminiscent of Switzerland.

 Another educational nature experience is the biosphere reserve Minett UNESCO Biosphere, located in the very south of the country. It shows the impact humans have on nature and the resurgence of nature in a region forged by industrial activity. The extraction of the iron ore and its subsequent abandonment left their mark on the landscape. www.minetttrail.lu

Come visit the Roman villa!

We’re open from 8 April through to 28 September 2025

Beyond the buildings, a green haven

A stroll through Klosegrënnchen Park accompanied by a “Grénge Mann” (Green Man), an endless source of information on the trees and plants that grow in Luxembourg’s business district.

Text SALOMÉ JEKO Photos PIERRE MATGÉ / CAPSULE

The meeting point is a bus stop on boulevard Pierre Werner, right next to the Robert Schuman Hospitals in the Kirchberg district. Slightly hesitant, the ten or so participants of the day’s tour gather at the entrance of Klosegrënnchen Park. “Did you come to see the ‘Grénge Mann’ too?” asks one couple.

Suddenly, amidst the comings and goings of cars on one side and the chirping of birds on the other, gentle music can be heard. “It’s coming from the trees, over there!” exclaims a child, darting off along the park path. And indeed, a few metres further down, at the edge of the woods, the Green Man is there, sitting on a rock in a field of nettles, with his ocarina at his lips. “Have you seen my friend the jaybird? I’ve been waiting for him for hours. Do you know him? Let me show you his plumage,” whispers the Green Man, brandishing his wooden staff topped with various feathers and a sculpture in his image.

Theatrical visits

Behind the beard and the costume of the self-proclaimed guardian of nature, who “tells the trees to shed their leaves and the hedgehog to wake up after winter,” is a man named Lex Gillen. A biologist by training with a true gift for improvisation and storytelling. “At first, I gave talks in classrooms, and when my wife, who has a theatre background, saw me in action, she came up with the idea of creating this character of the ‘Grénge Mann’.

Since then, I’ve taken on other roles, including those of local historical figures,” he confides. As a music enthusiast, Lex Gillen spent several months with Aboriginal people in Australia, conducting research on various instruments. This unforgettable experience strengthened his innate connection with nature.

“I have deep respect for the forest and I’m convinced that trees have

Trained biologist Lex Gillen embodies the “Grénge Mann”, the guardian of nature. He has always been really passionate about nature, which holds no secrets for him.

Lex Gillen offers theatrical visits throughout Klosegrënnchen Park to introduce curious onlookers to the secrets and virtues of wild plants and trees. The “Grénge Mann” captivates his audience with his knowledge and anecdotes.

a soul. I became deeply interested in plants and all of their benefits, and I take great pleasure in sharing this knowledge with the people who come to meet me,” he enthuses.

For two hours, he doesn’t just play the role of the Green Man, he embodies it, revealing the secrets of the plants around us to curious minds, whether young or old.

“Nettles sting? That’s because you’re holding them the wrong way. You simply need to grab them by the roots and stroke them against the direction of the hair,” he explains while demonstrating, before eating a leaf under the surprised gaze of the participants.

“You trust what’s in the supermarket more than what grows in nature…,” the Green Man teases. Recognising a cherry tree by observing its bark, distinguishing a wild rose from a hawthorn, tasting the fruits of the blackthorn, picking St. John’s wort (“a plant that stores all the sun’s energy”) to make anti-depression infusions or oil to soothe sprains... The participants at today’s tour marvel at so many revelations. “The problem is that we are far too disconnected from nature,” admits a father who came with his two children.

Over 40,000 trees planted

Disconnected from nature?

Undoubtedly. And yet, despite the tall buildings around us and the planes criss-crossing the sky, the nature surrounding us on this day proves to be fascinating.

It should be noted that since 1991, Kirchberg has made particular efforts to restore biodiversity, which was disrupted by the initial development of this former pasture land into a district dedicated to finance and European institutions. “An initial analysis of the topic was carried out in the 1980s, and in 1991 the

“I have a certain gift for theatrics and acting, that’s what gave us the idea of creating the ‘Grénge Mann’,” exclaims Lex Gillen.

It’s tasting time, with a 100% plant-based menu! In terms of flavours, some surprises are in store…

A preserved patch of nature is hidden between the buildings of Luxembourg’s financial and European institutions district. More than 40,000 trees and shrubs have been planted in the Kirchberg Arboretum since 1994.

Some remarkable flavours are revealed by tasting the edible plants that grow on the Kirchberg plateau.

Kirchberg Fund adopted the urban and ecological concept of landscape architect Peter Latz.

He instigated the idea to create a 30-hectare Arboretum within all of the district’s green spaces, particularly in public parks. Planting began in 1994, and since then, more than 40,000 trees and shrubs from across Europe have been planted.

We’ve also kept surface waters to attract toads and dragonflies, we carry out selective mowing, and

we’ve created flower meadows... The goal being to revive the flora and fauna as they existed before all of this construction,” explains Thierry Helminger, a botanist at Luxembourg’s natural history museum (MNHN). He is responsible for researching and collecting interesting seeds from natural populations of species, advising on the plants to be cultivated, and cataloguing all of the varieties that exist in the district in a database.

Restoring biodiversity

Réimerwee Park, with its array of oaks, beeches and pines, Central Park with its ornamental fruit trees, and Klosegrënnchen Park – all of which were successively renovated from 1994 to 2000 – hold no secrets for him. “At Klosegrënnchen Park, the dunes were shaped using excavations from the construction of the city’s eastern bypass. As the substrate was not improved, it was possible to recreate the usual biotope found on sandstone plateaus in Luxembourg. Nowadays, you can observe rare orchids, gorse, juniper, willow, birch and pine trees, wild roses, etc.” lists the botanist, who also offers guided tours through the Arboretum which houses around 500 species and varieties, all labelled in four languages.

The Green Man doesn’t need any labels, as he uses illustrated stories to teach those interested in how to recognise the trees. Speaking of which, hush up! It’s story time by the spiral-shaped retention basin that collects rainwater and run-off from Klosegrënnchen Park.

“The devil scratched the bark of the oak tree and his fingerprints made the lobes of its leaves,” he recounts under the spellbound gaze of the children present.

Anecdotes and tastings

Next up is the highly-anticipated moment when participants get to taste the various plants collected during the walk. Flowers, leaves and roots feature on the menu:

“This one tastes like mushrooms!” exclaims an amazed young woman. “It’s a bit like garlic,” observes her partner, munching on the end of a dandelion root. “It’s like mint sweets,” laughs a little girl…

One discovery leads to another, and eyes widen even further when the “Grénge Mann” opens up his mysterious bag to reveal a roll of string “made with nettles” followed by a hat made of “mushroom leather”. So many discoveries! And yet the tour has only just begun…

Top Tips:

 If you’d like to take part in a guided tour with the “Grénge Mann”, sign up on the Fonds Kirchberg website: www.fondskirchberg.lu

The Kirchberg district (“Kierchbierg” in Luxembourgish) is a vast plateau located in the northeastern part of Luxembourg City. It is one of the capital’s 24 districts. Once a purely agricultural area, since the 1950s the district has become one of the main business and finance hubs of Luxembourg City, also home to three European institutions.

 Kirchberg offers a variety of spaces to relax after work or take a break following the many discoveries of the city, whether at Place de l’Europe with the Philharmonie concert hall and the Mudam modern art museum or in the nearby shopping centres. The district’s large park houses an arboretum, pétanque courts and an open-air café & restaurant (in summer). The city boasts several other beautiful parks, often designed in surprising ways, from the Grund to the Cloche d’Or, passing through the Pétrusse Valley and the Kinnekswiss Park, as well as the Merl and Limpertsberg districts. www.luxembourg-city.com

 The Coque sports and leisure complex is located in the heart of Kirchberg. This shell-shaped building with its impressive architecture invites you to swim a few lengths in the Olympic-sized pool before enjoying a delicious snack. www.coque.lu

The call of the countryside

Explore life in Luxembourg’s countryside with all five senses: rest amidst the fields and meadows or roll up your sleeves and pitch in!

Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

Enjoy yoga in the woods and pastures; pick your favourite flowers and create your own beautiful arrangements; experience the course of the seasons in the vineyards. All this and much more will be part of your backcountry adventures.

An interregional project on “rural tourism” held an open call for creative ideas. Let us introduce you to the winners and their “adventure tours”.

Kapenaker Blooms: flower farm and workshops

The beauty of flowers, a sensory experience

Kapenaker Blooms, in the Moselle region, is a special flower farm that beckons with beautiful, delicate flora. You won’t find big, fancy flowers here. Instead,

Stefanie Hildebrand grows local and seasonal flowers  . Visitors can cut and arrange flowers themselves, even draw them. Drop by for an all-round sensory experience!

Stefanie Hildebrand  created the flower farm on her 1000-square-metre property in Kapenaker near Wormeldan-

ge. This is where she tends to multiple fields and flower beds full of seemingly dainty and pastel-coloured blossoms, though some flowers pop. Colourful, just like nature  !

Soon, this place will hold many “slow flower” events: drop by to pick your own flowers and arrange them in beautiful vases. Why not enjoy a delicious picnic with local products underneath the big walnut tree  ? Maybe let an artist teach you how to draw flowers on canvas or paper? Anyone who loves flowers and nature can participate: children, adults, individuals, couples, families, even work teams!

Both visitors and nature should be happy. That’s why Stefanie uses a permaculture approach. She doesn’t dig up the ground but consistently adds new layers instead, including organic compost. “I work with what’s there!” she says.

“miniWënzer”:

young vineyard explorers

Tending, pruning, vine-training, harvesting and more

What happens year-round in a vineyard? How is wine and grape juice produced? Children can join “miniWënzer”  to

find out everything there is to know about viticulture, from care to harvest, including the big end-of-season “Hunnefeier” festival.

The “miniWënzer” project is led by winemaker, psychologist and teacher Laurence Duhr  , who comes from a prominent viticultural family, and outdoor adventure and tourism guide Jutta Kanstein  . At the moment, eight- to ten-year-old children can participate five times a year.

The nature-loving duo teaches budding winemakers everything there is to know about caring for vines and their environment. The children learn how to work the ground, tend the vines, pick grapes and extract juice. They also learn what other beings grow, crawl and fly around the vineyard and its walls, and how important it is to protect nature.

The vineyard is located in the Manternacher Fiels  nature reserve, in the eastern part of Luxembourg. Participants are expected to actively pitch in

and thereby experience wine and grape juice making with all five senses. They will also learn how diverse the vineyard and forest ecosystems are and what happens during a growing season. This project is a fun way for children to learn, to awaken their interest in nature and foster their understanding of biodiversity.

At the end of the course, at harvest time, there is even a big “Hunnefeier”, a traditional festival among winemakers, where everyone eats and drinks fresh grape juice together. The project leaders plan to expand their offers to include more diverse groups as well as one-day events for tourists.

Yoga Trails Luxembourg

The journey is the destination

Anyone is welcome on Isabel Schank’s Yoga Trails  . Here, yoga is an act of self-care. No pressure, just pleasure. Outdoors, in Luxembourg’s magical countryside.

We often associate yoga with Instagram pictures featuring young people who appear thin

and perfectly balanced. And then we think: I’m not flexible, not strong enough. It creates inhibitions and puts people off.

That’s where Isabel’s idea comes in. It’s meant to improve lives through yoga. It’s not about the perfect posture, the perfect outfit, the perfect body. Isabel Schank’s Yoga Trails offer a sensory experience in nature  . You’ll feel present. Guided yet completely self-confident. There’s no pressure, no judgement. Mental health is the priority.

The journey is literally the destination. We walk to the areas where we do the postures  In the spirit of Goethe, “only where you walked, you truly were.”

Luxembourg’s beautiful landscapes, especially up north, are not just a pretty backdrop  Isabel wants both locals and visitors to relish the beauty of the region. The footsteps on the forest ground, taking deep breaths in a lovely clearing. It’s all part of the experience. Explore the treasures within and without, connect with nature and yourself. Inspiration, personal growth…those are the goals. Body, mind, spirit and energy working in harmony.

 Kapenaker Blooms offers workshops for every weather and fancy, with or without a meal.

www.roomsblooms.lu

 Contact the “miniWënzer” by email: miniwenzer@pt.lu

 Connect with nature and try out the Yoga Trails. More information here: www.anandaliving.lu

 For more inspiring nature adventures, please visit: www.visitluxembourg.com

 The interregional rural tourism LEADER project was created by the tourism office of the Moselle region. It supports start-ups, businesses and organisations in the tourism sector that offer unique adventures in and around rural Luxembourg. www.leader.lu

Where humanity and inclusion are in focus: Camping Kaul

For our camping guests, this philosophy is synonymous with an enriching experience for every day of the year: They enjoy the unique atmosphere of togetherness and interaction between different people. By meeting people who have mastered their own challenges, guests experience a deeper connection to the community and a greater appreciation of diversity. This not only creates a harmonious cohabitation, but also broadens their own horizons and enriches the camping experience with authentic human encounters in a unique environment, the green ‘Kaul’ at Wiltz at the foot of the Ardennes. In addition to large and sunny pitches, Camping Kaul also offers glamping experiences in its fully equipped safari tents, pods and chalets of various types and sizes. Let yourself be treated by our great service, freshly made beds, local soaps and treat yourself to a breakfast basket brought to your chalet in the morning by our team.

The Camino of

Luxembourg

If you’ve ever noticed a sign with a stylised yellow scallop shell on a blue background, you’ve already been along the Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St James. This vast European network of routes includes roughly 180 km in Luxembourg that are worth exploring.

Text NATALIE A. GERHARDSTEIN Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

The impressive stone marker in Weilerbach at the river Sûre indicates the distance to Santiago. The Camino network across Europe extends several thousands of miles, connecting over 440,000 visitors in total each year.

During the Middle Ages, the Way of St James was one of the most popular Christian pilgrimages, following well-established Roman trade routes. Traditionally, the journey began when a pilgrim left their front door and headed to Santiago de Compostela, the cathedral in which St James’ remains are believed to have been buried.

Of course, walking from Luxembourg to Santiago is still possible, though the journey would take several months. The Luxembourg route, however, offers many historical markers and pilgrimage sites across its 180 km, providing walkers with a unique sense of accomplishment and camaraderie.

Spirit of the Camino

Del Lloyd and Amanda Surbey are two American expats who met through a local hiking group. Del, who used to work in Silicon Valley, has long, chestnut hair and a contagious laugh. It’s evident to see how they became fast friends, given their similar sharp wits and sense of humour. Amanda is a self-described “serial expat” with “endless moxy” and learned beekeeping after moving to Luxembourg (she likes tending her hives near the Moselle).

Amanda had hiked the Camino Francés, or the French Way, from St Jean-Pied-de-Port, at the base of the Pyrenees, to Santiago de Compostela, a walk which took roughly 35 days back in 2014. Her stories inspired Del to do three different Camino paths in Spain and Portugal, and later in Luxembourg. The pair were eager to meet up

again to share their stories about the portions of the Luxembourg trail they’d hiked, the spirit of the Camino, and experiences along the transformative journey.

Those who want the pilgrim credential, a passport that can be stamped along the way, can order it via the website of the non-profit association, Frënn vum Camino de Santiago de Compostela, for €5. Stamps

Although the yellow arrow was only created relatively recently, it is now one of the most international symbols of the Camino de Santiago. Together with the historic scallop shell, which is carried as a souvenir by returning pilgrims, these are the two most important symbols of the Camino.

Echternach is the oldest town in Luxembourg. This medieval town shows many monumental works like the St. Willibrord Basilica. In 2010, the famous Dancing Procession that always takes place on Whit Tuesday became part of UNESCO‘s Intangible World Cultural Heritage.

are available at the organisation’s headquarters in Grevenmacher but also at various places along the way, such as Echternach Abbey, Notre Dame Cathedral, plus some tourist and parish offices along the route.

Although the Luxembourg Camino can be divided into different stages, the organisation suggests eight stages of approximately 18-24 km

each, with stops at Rodershausen, Bettel, Echternach, Grevenmacher, Senningen, Leudelange, Hellange and Schengen.

The trail begins in Ouren/Lieler (see opener photo, page 94-95), hugging Luxembourg’s eastern border, approximately following the E2 European long-distance path, and the first 18 km stage to Rodershausen is the most challenging, following narrow paths in the rolling hills of the Éislek region, or Luxembourg Ardennes.

Starting in the Éislek

The Luxembourg trail peaks at a height of 409 m but, for Amanda, would probably be nothing compared to the 1,140 km climb on the first stage of the traditional French Way. “I had two children without epidurals, but walking across the Pyrenees was the hardest thing I’ve ever done!” she says with a chuckle.

For many hikers, the climbs and descents across the forest-spotted hills throughout the first stages offer some of the most magnificent panoramas. Although Amanda’s Camino was to set herself a new challenge, for Del the reasons are often “more spiritual. One was the physical challenge, plus also taking the time to think.” She’s a fan of taking a break on “chair-bed” benches, reflecting from a height above, simply watching the world go by.

Hikers pass along the River Our, passing the Kalborn Mill, where there’s a protected mussel breeding station, then follow the N10 road to Roderhausen. For those doing consecutive stages and overnighting

After enjoying the sun on a terrace, Del and Amanda decide to have a picnic lunch outside the city. And of course the delicious dessert must not be missing.

Not everyone sets out to make friends along the Camino, but some make friends for life. As Del puts it, “It’s as social as you want to make it. But there’s the spirit of the Camino: the sense of community is what I love about it.”

The Moselle is not just a quiet river. It is also a sunny region with a gentle way of life. Its sun-drenched hillsides produce internationally renowned wines, crémants and late harvest wines from its most famous grape varieties.

The picture was taken in summer 2024; meanwhile the ponton has been removed. In this place you will soon find a new dock for the MS Princesse Marie-Astrid, the ship, where the Schengen treaty was signed.

The final stage takes hikers to Schengen. It seems a fitting end, a sense of connection to the start of the trail where, just outside Ouren, stands a monument commemorating the 1957 founding of the European Community.

along the way, it’s important to book early; Del says the northern route is a bit less developed than later stages of the path.

The next stage to Bettel (24 km) offers an exciting detour for those who want to feel a sense of the history of the Camino: Bivels marks the birthplace of the first modern Luxembourg pilgrim, economist and prolific writer, Adrien Ries, who walked from Luxembourg to Santiago de Compostela.

Without the detour, the trail continues past the stunning Romanesque-style Vianden Castle before winding its way to Bettel. It’s common to pass pastures of sheep or cows, and the fauna is something Del has enjoyed throughout her walking. She’s proud to admit that she has also seen a fox along the Luxembourg Camino. Yet it’s common to hike portions and not see a single hiker…

Onwards to Echternach

Then begins the 25 km stage to Echternach. Along this route, a short detour takes walkers to Wallendorf, Germany—where it’s common to see kayakers splashing along the Sûre River—then onwards to small villages, including Bollendorf-Pont. Amanda was surprised to discover on this stretch the covered bridge at Weilerbach, as well as an impressive stone marker indicating the distance to Santiago. A thrilling reminder, she says, “that we’re connected to a network bigger than all of us.”

Indeed, the Camino network across Europe extends several thousands of miles, connecting over 440,000 visitors in total each year.

In Grevenmacher’s church one can find St Roch, to whom believers pray for their safe pilgrimage and who’s often depicted with the Cross of St James – or as here with the scallop symbol on his head cover and his bag.

Amanda and Del agree that Echternach, the oldest town in the Grand Duchy, makes for a fine day out. At its heart is the Abbey of Echternach, where it’s easy to jump into conversation with the staff enquiring about their pilgrimages. “The Mullerthal is special to me,” Amanda says. “It reminds me of Southeastern Ohio, it’s very similar to the Hocking Hills there, so it touches me a bit.” A sweet reminder of her home state and summer camp, where she made friends for life.

Del and Amanda enjoy lapping up the sun on a terrace, then decide to have a picnic lunch outside the city. Under the shade of the tree, they watch the horses nearby. Not everyone sets out to make friends along the Camino, but some make friends for life. As Del puts it, “It’s

as social as you want to make it. But there’s the spirit of the Camino: the sense of community is what I love about it.” Even if friends don’t set out to hike together, it’s easy even on the Luxembourg Camino to pop into a café and join in conversation with others.

Mindful moments

From Echternach, the Luxembourg Camino continues towards the vineyard-studded slopes of Grevenmacher (22 km), passing along another historical marker known as “Jokesbierg”, where a St James hermitage and chapel once existed. In spring, the fields below this hill are lined with bright yellow rapeseed.

The path continues towards the quieter towns of Berbourg and

Manternach. Above Manternach, it’s common to catch a sight of grazing deer. Both Amanda and Del live around this area, and for Amanda it’s a reminder that the Camino begins at home, by walking out one’s front door. Del particularly likes the small churches along the way and learning more about the figures within them—like St Roch, to whom believers prayed for their safe pilgrimage and who’s often depicted with the Cross of St James, sometimes with the scallop symbol. Grevenmacher’s church is no exception, and visitors can stop by the parish secretariat to get a stamp. Hikers can reward themselves with a crisp glass of Riesling or Elbling along the banks of the Moselle.

Tips:

 Pilgrimages are a tradition in Luxembourg. You can experience this in person in Echternach at Pentecost. Pilgrims come from all directions to take part in the jumping procession www.visitechternach.lu

 During the so-called Octave between Easter and Pentecost, pilgrims from all of the country’s parishes come together in the cathedral “Notre-Dame” of Luxembourg and celebrate church services after their pilgrimage. https://www.visitluxembourg.com/ place/cathedrale-notre-dame

 Information about the Camino in Luxembourg can be found on the website of the non-profit association “Frënn vum Camino de Santiago de Compostela”. www.caminosantiago.lu

The fifth stage takes visitors onward to Senningen (22 km), passing the satellite giant SES in the Betzdorf Castle. The next stage to Leudelange, another 22.6 km, passes through Luxembourg City’s historical centre and the Notre Dame Cathedral, where it’s possible to get another stamp.

A sense of connection

The seventh stage, onwards another 23.8 km, pushes onward toward Hellange via Dudelange. Given that a good leg of this portion is along the motorway, Del recalls that this was also the case along various other Caminos she has hiked but, given that the French Way tends to get extremely crowded along the last 100 km, the open spaces are a welcome relief.

The final stage takes hikers to Schengen 24.5 km later. With its history tied to the agreement that established Europe’s free movement

area, and a portion of the Berlin wall hovering near the Moselle, it seems a fitting end, a sense of connection to the start of the trail where, just outside Ouren, stands a monument commemorating the 1957 founding of the European Community.

The connection of countries and people, the mindful moments along the way… As Del sums it up, “There’s so much in Luxembourg that I’ve discovered through walking that I might not have discovered otherwise. The reason I do the Camino is that I have nothing to do but to get from point A to point B.” Just follow the shell markers! Del would personally like to have a guidebook for the Luxembourg trail and is even considering producing one herself… perhaps the next leg of her journey.

It’s evident to see how Del and Amanda became fast friends, given their similar sharp wits and sense of humour.

Lightand shadow

The National Museum of Resistance and Human Rights in the city of Esch-sur-Alzette has become a magnetic draw for visitors. The freshly reimagined permanent exhibit brings to life the grave history of World War II and the impact of the resistance movement. Our writer Tom visited the museum.

Text and Photos TOM JUTZLER

Originally built in 1956, the renovated museum now combines historical architecture with modern elements. It is a space that honours the past while serving as a warning to the present and future.

As a contemporary witness of history, the National Museum of Resistance and Human Rights is a powerful reminder that the fight for freedom and human dignity must never end.

Visits begin in a stately hall once home to concentration camp urns. This is when a tight feeling sets in that will stay with me for the duration of the visit. Every step feels like a deep bow to the victims and resistance fighters of these dark times.

The permanent exhibition represents a thematic journey through the complex structures of the Nazi machine that illuminates its brutal impact on the civilian population as well as on the courageous people who resisted and on those who, unfortunately, collaborated. Here, personal narratives complement and give shape to history.

A place of emotions

A few steps into the exhibit, I feel enveloped by a deep silence. The dim corridors are not just paths through the museum but forays into the depths of human history and individual experiences that moulded the resistance.

Every room is dedicated to a story. The carefully crafted exhibits, from poignant photographs to haunting concentration camp artifacts, speak directly to the heart. The displays of printed texts, documents and objects draw visitors into an era that seems both near and far.

Small wooden toys, a whimsical dog, a carved board game. In a different context, the thought that these were made by a loving dad would warm your heart. Instead, knowing that they were carved at the Hinzert concentration camp under gruesome circumstances brings a lump to my throat. The toys just sit there innocently, dust-free, as if made yesterday.

Voices of the past

The great hall is divided into seven niches on the ground floor that introduce visitors to 28 witnesses of World War II. The personal stories of Luxembourgish men, women and children offer a glimpse into the fates of these families. Pictures, documents, artifacts and moving original audio statements bring to life these people’s lived experiences.

The biographical alcoves transport me to a different time. It feels like I’m actually meeting these people. Through the speakers, their hushed voices create a sense of intimacy that gets under my skin. As if their voices were a time machine that lets the past speak to us directly, in the now.

There is no end to history. History unfolds continuously. These are the thoughts that come to mind as I make my way through the exhibit. The first floor presents 16 contemporary stories that illustrate contemporary Luxembourg and the current challenges faced by migrants and victims of human rights violations. Their stories are evidence that lessons imparted by history are still relevant today, and that protecting human rights is an enduring responsibility.

Visits begin in a stately hall once home to concentration camp urns. This is when a tight feeling sets in that will stay with me for the duration of the visit.

Every room is dedicated to a story. The carefully crafted exhibits, from poignant photographs to haunting concentration camp artifacts, speak directly to the heart.

Both, exhibits and architecture, are designed to urge visitors to actively face and grapple with history. The interplay of light and shadow enhances the emotional experience.

The new facade on Rue de l’Alzette is decidedly modern and contrasts beautifully with its surroundings. Its stone elements, stacked over one another, symbolise a divided, deeply wounded society in need of a long healing journey.

Originally built in 1956, the renovated museum now combines historical architecture with modern elements. It is a space that honours the past while serving as a warning to the present and future. The sound-absorbing ceiling and new glass walls create a comfortable, light-filled environment. The interplay of light and shadow enhances the emotional experience.

The new facade on Rue de l’Alzette is decidedly modern and contrasts beautifully with its surroundings. Its stone elements, stacked over one another, protrude into the middle of the street and are marked by a vertical fissure, symbolising the layers of historical conflict within society.

Architecture and change

The building itself crafts a narrative that exposes the challenges and grey areas of this historical era. The museum asks fundamental questions like “What does resistance mean?” and “How do individuals deal with circumstances forced upon them?”. It compels visitors to think about their own perspectives. Both, exhibits and architecture, are designed to urge visitors to actively face and grapple with history.

Remembrance and education

The Museum of Resistance is a place of remembrance and education. Themes of resistance and human rights are meaningfully examined and remind us that it is crucial for us to protect these memories in order to not repeat the same mistakes.

I continue my visit, following the panels with the timelines. I read articles from old newspapers and shake my head at the relics of the tormentors. The exhibit ends with a striking installation that highlights the meaning of

The displays of printed texts, documents and objects draw visitors into an era that seems both near and far.

Some prisoners created drawings in secret, often with self-made materials or supplies stolen from the workshops. Some of their works were created for fellow prisoners. They are a testament to the friendships and solidarity amongst prisoners.

human rights in today’s society. It encourages visitors to reflect on the current challenges in the fight for freedom and justice and to question their own role in protecting those rights.

The museum will leave a deep impression on visitors and show how important it is to remember the past in order to create a better future.

The National Museum of Resistance and Human Rights in the city of Esch-sur-Alzette is a place of remembrance and education. For more information, please visit www.mnr.lu

Find out more:

 Explore the Place de la Résistance in Esch-sur-Alzette, a square dedicated to the World War II resistance. It’s a place of remembrance and home to several monuments. www.esch.lu

 The former Hinzert concentration camp is located across the German border about 50 kilometres away from Esch-sur-Alzette. During World War II, it was also used as a detention facility for political prisoners and resistance fighters from Luxembourg. www.gedenkstaette-hinzert-rlp.de

 The Schumannseck Memorial is dedicated to the fierce Battle of the Bulge that took place in the winter of 1944/45. www.landofmemory.eu

 The Dräi Eechelen Museum in Luxembourg City offers a comprehensive insight into the military history of Luxembourg, including World War II and the Nazi resistance. www.m3e.public.lu

 The National Military Museum in Diekirch depicts Luxembourg’s military history. While it focuses on the Battle of the Bulge, it also shines a light on other elements of World War II and the Luxembourgish resistance. www.mnhm.net

FACES OF LUXEMBOURG

CELEBRATING THE POWER OF FREEDOM, BOLDNESS & COMMITMENT.

By showcasing an eclectic range of people dedicated to the development of Luxembourg on a series of key contemporary themes, such as inclusion, craftsmanship, the circular economy and impact finance, this campaign aims to celebrate the power of freedom, boldness, and commitment.

Meet the FACES through films and readings

Traditional dishes with a modern twist

A menu of classic culinary creations from Luxembourg wouldn’t be complete without the likes of “Kniddelen” (dumplings) and “Judd mad Gaardebounen” (smoked pork with broad beans). In collaboration with KACHEN magazine, we show how local chefs elegantly reinterpret these dishes.

“There’s so much more to contemporary Luxembourgish cuisine than traditional home cooking. We’re cooking with cosmopolitan flair in this country these days, drawing inspiration from the flavours of Italy, Portugal, Asia and the USA,” explains Bibi Wintersdorf, the founder and editor-in-chief of Luxembourg magazine KACHEN. Bibi Wintersdorf loves cooking at home. In fact, she loves cooking so much that she made it to the final of a famous German cooking show with her best friend back in 2007.

One of the most popular parts of the magazine is “My Luxembourg”. The KACHEN editorial team has shared two of the traditional recipes from this section that have been reworked with a modern twist by chefs from Luxembourg.

Influences from around the world

We’re used to putting a fresh spin on things here in Luxembourg, where traditional and modern are contrasting concepts that comfortably co-exist. Our vibrant culture and foodie scene are fuelled by our multinational population, with people from so many different countries living side by side and bringing their own culinary traditions and flavours from their homes all the way to Luxembourg.

We’re also seeing more and more commitment to sourcing and preparing ingredients in sustainable ways. We tend to keep things regional where we can in Luxembourg.

Texte BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Recipes + Photos KACHEN

“Wëllkarkniddele mat Léifstackcrème a Fréijoersgeméis”

After graduating from the École d’Hôtellerie et de Tourisme du Luxembourg (EHTL) as a chef in 2009, Steve Lentz expanded his experience by working in Luxembourg, Switzerland and Germany. In 2017, he returned as a teacher at the Diekirch school, with a master’s degree in his pocket, and a combined motivation: his passion for cooking and his desire to pass on his skills and knowledge. “It’s important to train young people in the culinary profession because the gastronomy sector is sorely lacking in professionals,” explains Steve Lentz, whose culinary adventure began very early in his childhood alongside his grandmother.

Serves 4

Preparation time 30 minutes

Cooking time 30 minutes

600 g spring vegetables of your choice: root vegetables, radishes ...

4 slices of raw ham

50 g butter

80 g walnuts

100 g sour cream

Herbs and/or flowers for decoration

For the “Kniddelen”

150 g stale bread

50 g buckwheat flour

20 g wheat flour

20 g grated parmesan

1/2 shallot

1 garlic clove

2 eggs

150 g milk

100 g sour cream

Salt, pepper and nutmeg

For the lovage cream

150 g neutral oil

40 g fresh lovage

20 g egg white

2 g salt

8 g rice vinegar

25 g ice cubes

The “Kniddelen”

1. To make the “Kniddelen”, sauté the shallot and garlic and mix with the remaining ingredients in a blender. Make small dumplings and poach in salted water. Alternatively, place the mixture in ramekins and cook in a steamer at 75°C for 15 minutes.

2. Clean, peel and cut the vegetables into the desired shape. Blanch in a pan of boiling water and then rinse.

3. Place the raw ham on a tray with baking paper, cover with a second sheet of paper and weigh down with another tray. Bake in the oven at 160°C for 25 minutes. Lightly toast the walnuts in a pan.

The lovage cream

1. Blend the lovage with the oil in a stand mixer until the mixture has reached approximately 65°C as a result of the friction. Strain through a fine sieve and leave to cool in the fridge. Add the remaining ingredients to the stand mixer. Blend the ingredients until foam is formed by the egg white. Then slowly add 100 g of the lovage oil while continuing to blend the cream. Then pour into a piping bag.

2. Before serving, heat the “Kniddelen” in a little melted butter and sauté the vegetables. Spread some lovage cream on the plate, arrange the “Kniddelen” and the vegetables on top. Garnish with the ham, walnuts, sour cream, remaining lovage cream and herbs/flowers.

Tip: For a vegetarian alternative, simply leave out the ham.

Steve Lentz

Lux and Fränk Manes

Risotto “Judd mat Gaardebounen”

Fränk Manes and Jeff Lux have known each other since their time together at the EHTL. Today, they run the restaurant WAX in Pétange together. Fränk, awarded best young chef in 2013, makes no compromises when it comes to taste. “Of course, a dish has to please the eyes,” says the Chef, “but, first and foremost, it has to taste good.” Fresh products and craftsmanship ensure that guests quickly become regulars at WAX. And what could be more inviting than Fränk’s interpretation of the typical Luxembourgish “Judd mat Gaardebounen”!

Serves 4

Prep time 40 minutes

Cooking time 25 minutes

400 g risotto rice

1 onion

1 l chicken broth

120 ml white wine, dry

90 g butter

100 g parmesan

200 g frozen broad beans

(Gaardebounen)

200 g cooked “Judd” (neck of pork)

4 slices smoked bacon

2 tbsp Luxembourgish mustard

5 g fresh savory

1 fresh bay leaf

Olive oil for sautéing

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Peel and dice the onion and sauté in olive oil.

2. Add the risotto rice and the bay leaf, season with salt and pepper and deglaze with the white wine.

3. When the white wine is slightly reduced, gradually add the warm broth and stir vigorously.

4. In the meantime, roast the bacon in the oven until golden and drain on a paper towel.

5. Cook the broad beans in boiling salted water and quench in ice water.

6. Cut the “Judd” into small pieces and fry lightly in olive oil. Then finely chop the savory without stems and add. Add the fried “Judd” and the broad beans to the risotto.

7. Once the risotto rice is cooked, but still firm to the bite, cut the butter into cubes and stir into the risotto.

8. Finally, stir in the Parmesan cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve the risotto warm in a deep dish with the toasted bacon slices.

Feeling inspired to cook up a storm?

 You can check out all the recipes at www.kachen.lu and there is plenty more mouth-watering material on the Food & Drink pages at www.visitluxembourg.com.

Jeff

Publisher

Luxembourg for Tourism BP 1001, L-1010 Luxemburg

Tel. +352 42 82 82 1 info@visitluxembourg.com

VisitLuxembourg visit_luxembourg www.visitluxembourg.com

© LFT 2025

All rights reserved. Any entire or partial use, replication, reproduction, publication, transmission or distribution in any form, is not permitted without previous written approval by LFT.

ISSN 2716-7291

Editor-in-chief

Birgit Pfaus-Ravida

Creative Direction & Editorial Design

Guido Kröger/ ampersand.studio

Texts

Natalie A. Gerhardstein

Salomé Jeko

Tom Jutzler

Eleftheria Koufogeorgou/ TravelMatKanner

Birgit Pfaus-Ravida

Alfonso Salgueiro

Carole Theisen

Photos

Pancake! Photographie (cover)

Tom Jutzler

KACHEN

Pierre Matgé / CAPSULE

Alfonso Salgueiro

André Schösser

Other photos with friendly approval of the partners

Translations & Corrections

Cécile Balavoine

Fiona Gray

Hélène Rybol

Lara Schroeder

Carole Theisen

Translatores

Zenter fir d’Lëtzebuerger Sprooch

Languages

English

French

German

Luxembourgish

Edition

Total editions: 40,000

English edition: 14,000

Print

Imprimerie Centrale

IC

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