Luci - Issue 6 - English by Luxembourg for Tourism

Luci

Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg ISSUE 6 — ENGLISH

Fairytale experiences Follow in the footsteps of the famous giant

Photo collections A country in photos

Cycling through the country From west to east along the Sûre river

plan K

B O U RG M E X U L LE M OS E L

DESTINATION WINE ROAD to be consumed with moderation

Find the winemakers on vins-cremants.lu

Editorial Moien and welcome to Luxembourg, Have you ever been so enthralled by a story, it felt like you were right in the middle of it? Hopefully, the stories in this edition of Luci magazine will do just that. Immerse yourself in Luxembourg’s abundant photography collections with unique origin stories. Explore the spectacular places where they are housed. Let Parc Merveilleux, Luxembourg’s fairytale park, enchant you as you follow in the footsteps of the giant and spend the night in a real-life fairy tale castle. We also explore Luxembourg by bike, following the river Sûre from west to east. Let the river surprise you with its many stories. Find out where to hear rocks whisper in the underground world of Luxembourg City. Time to dive in. Enjoy our new edition of Luci, Luxembourg’s destination magazine. See you soon in Luxembourg! Yours,

Dr. Sebastian Reddeker CEO Luxembourg for Tourism

PS: Did you miss the first editions of Luci? Order it for free online at www.luci.travel and we’ll deliver even more inspiring Luci moments to your door.

Content

6-17

Outdoors Passion

MINETT TRAIL

The path of change 18-26

The Good Life

BETTEMBOURG’S FAIRYTALE PARK AND ADVENTURE TRAIL

The giant’s journey 28-33

The Good Life

GREVENMACHER BUTTERFLY GARDEN

Follow the flutter of butterfly wings 34-40

Transforming Experiences

NATURE ADVENTURE CENTRE ROBBESSCHEIER

Horsepower with purpose 42-47

Outdoors Passion

HAFF RÉIMECH AND BIODIVERSUM

Naturally passionate! 48-52

Daydream

CASTLES AS INSPIRING PLACES OF POWER

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Dreams of travel and castles

54-62

Transforming Experiences

BORDER TO BORDER: A BIKE TOUR ALONG THE SURE RIVER

Go with the flow 64-69

The Good Life

AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE IN VIANDEN

Floating on a journey through time

102

70-82

Open and Diverse

PHOTOGRAPHY COLLECTIONS IN LUXEMBOURG

Luxembourg, your pictures!

84-88

Transforming Experiences

SLATE MUSEUM IN HAUT-MARTELANGE

A slate story 90-101

Transforming Experiences

LUXEMBOURG CITY’S CASEMATES

Hidden tunnels and talking stones 102-110 Daydream

LIBRARIES OF LUXEMBOURG

Travel for mind and soul

112-120

Open and Diverse

CARTE BLANCHE: MIKE ZENARI

Museum Night 122

Impressum

64 5

Outdoors Passion MINETT TRAIL

The path of change Showcasing the scenic beauty of Luxembourg’s southern region, the Minett Trail is sure to capture the hearts of nature and history lovers alike. The trail winds its way over 90 kilometres through the former heartland of the steel industry. A hiking adventure into Luxembourg’s industrial past and through its natural beauty. Text TOM JUTZLER Photos ANDRÉ SCHÖSSER

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The Minett Trail reflects the multi-faceted region perfectly: from red rocks over industrial landmarks to dark, dense greenery. Nora Peters is essentially the mastermind behind the trail. Here she is pictured in the woods near Esch-sur-Alzette where an old mine shaft opens onto a tunnel.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The Dudelange water tower appears like a beacon before us, showing us the way. Visible from afar, it’s the tacit emblem of the Neischmelz brownfield site. At its feet lies a pond with a “Kabaisercher”, a kind of hiking lodge designed specifically for the Minett Trail. This is where we’ll spend the night. It looks like a houseboat floating between water lilies and ducks, a work of art that you can live in and which beckons to be explored. We go in. The walls are made of layered wooden panels made to resemble the rock face of an open mine. Huge windows offer a view of the water tower. Modern, inspiring and cosy. Unfortunately we can’t stay yet. The day is still young and we have a lot to do.

Regional DNA We are meeting Nora Peters from the regional tourism office at “Kantin”, a pub-restaurant located a stone’s throw from our floating lodge. Together with the microbrewery Twisted Cat, they are located in an industrial heritage building. Nora sits in a comfy chair with an open Minett Trail map and beams. The trail on the map, along with information on distance, places of interest and difficulty levels, is essentially her work.

We cheerfully inspect the map, cherry picking the things we want to see. To get a sense of the DNA of the region we begin with the mining museum in Rumelange. The friendly, tattooed “Kantin” manager with huge biceps invites us to stay the evening. Later on there will be a DJ and dancing. There’s rumbling and squeaking. The small, slow train taking us into the depths of the mountain jerks a lot. The air is increasingly cold and humid. In the extensive tunnels of this former iron ore mine, the hard and dangerous job of those who worked there is brought to life.

Good luck! The tour leads through dark, dimly-lit tunnels featuring old tools and machinery that convey a sense of how difficult mining iron ore must have been. In the beginning,

Signposts indicate places of interest along the way. Highlights include nature reserves, bodies of water, viewpoints and industrial landmarks.

It took months to test the different trails, discuss paths with locals and gather insider information on special attractions. We don’t have time for the whole 90-kilometre trail so we ask Nora for tips on which highlights to focus.

Dudelange’s water tower is the tacit emblem of “Neischmelz” brownfield site. At its base is a pond with a “Kabaisercher”, a kind of hiking lodge designed specifically for the Minett Trail.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

When steel manufacturer ArcelorMittal closed its mill in 2005, Dudelange created the “Neischmelz” project. On 36 hectares in the middle of the town centre, steel wasteland is being converted into a modern and ecological district. 11

the tools essentially consisted of hammer, chisel and raw muscle power. At the end, gargantuan machines were used. Huge, yellow bucket wheel excavators and oversized drills can be seen in the closed galleries. They look like sentient machines straight out of a science fiction movie.

Hidden worlds

“Gonner” house is the “Kabaisercher” in Rumelange. It’s a historical gem with a twist. Formerly home to mining offices, its mix of brick and natural stone walls are living witnesses of the ore-mining era.

Our subsequent walk through the woods between Rumelange and Esch-sur-Alzette feels refreshing after the darkness, rock and dust. We pass “Haus Gonner”, the tenth “Kabaisercher”, near the mining museum before the forest greets us with fresh air and luminescent green leaves. Suddenly, there’s a cool breeze. Tree trunks are covered in moss and lichen. If you keep your eyes open, you’ll see them: old, abandoned mine-entrances sealed off

with heavily barred gates. Portals to the underworld. Cold wafts of air often presage these gateways. We don’t enter. The path begins to burrow into the forest ground, deeper and deeper until it turns into a veritable duct coated with moss and ferns. The temperature drops considerably. Then, behind a blackberry hedge, we see it. A dark opening in the midst of the straggly forest. These admittedly slightly spooky discoveries can turn woodland strolls into adventures. We realise how much humans actually change their environment and how quickly nature reclaims everything, if we let it. We follow the trail to Esch-surAlzette and take the bus back to Dudelange where a floating abode, DJ and craft beer await us. The next morning, the sun kisses our faces through the large window and the water tower’s reflection dances in the pool. It looks almost artful. The doorbell rings. No one’s there but we find a breakfast tray full of regional produce on the doorstep. Let the day begin!

Searching for a slag cart We start with a search for a slag cart, a kind of dump cart mounted atop a rail carriage which was used to transport liquid slag from steel production. The carts were driven from “Dudelange Hut” to the edge of the “Haard plateau” where the slag was dumped over

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Fond-de-Gras Minett Park showcases over 100 years of Luxembourg’s industrial history. The steam train “Train 1900” still runs between Pétange and Fond-de-Gras, just as it did at the turn of the century.

You’ll also find a “Kabaisercher” in Fond-de-Gras in the form of a restored train wagon. It houses six rooms and is much more than just a luxurious sleeper car. It also features a sauna, two full bathrooms, a kitchen and a common room with a covered exterior gallery. Relaxation guaranteed!

Visitors of the Rumelange mining museum can take a train into the depth of the mountain. The mining tunnels below ground bring to life the hard and dangerous job of mining workers.

the slope of the former mine. Today, the slag heap is a precious habitat for heat-loving animals and plants. The debris warms up quickly and is brimming with small hollows, a perfect refuge for lizards, beetles and snakes. We find the cart, climb into it and enjoy the view of one of the largest bluffs in Europe. Even though the striking red cliffs were made by

humans, they are reminiscent of the natural rock formations of the American “Wild West”. Open woodland and steppelike landscapes alternate, continuously interspersed with the red rocks emblematic of the Minett region. A small black snake slithers amid the rock fragments. Butterflies flutter from orchid to orchid. We almost expect the Marlboro-man to ride up to the precipice of this ‘canyon’ and pensively gaze into the distance. Instead, we hear bleating. A flock of sheep emerges from the bushes. A dog dashes around, keeping the flock together. Instead of a cowboy, there’s a shepherd in a long cape.

Structural transformation We hike through the “HaardHesselsbierg-Staebierg” nature reserve to Tétange and then take a bus to Belval. Countless stairs await us on the way to the observation deck of the former furnace. The steps creak under our feet as we make our way up, surrounded by the striking industrial architecture of a bygone era. At the top, we are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Belval and the surrounding region. The rusty furnace structures seemingly soar into the sky while new life bustles in the borough below. The old steelworks stand shoulder to shoulder with modern buildings which house the university, museums and businesses.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

We stroll through the “Cité des Sciences”, where future knowledge is forged and admire the melding of old and new. Here, in the streets of Belval, we feel the rhythm of progress moored in the ever-present memory of an industrial past. Our explorations lead us through “Prënzebierg-Giele Botter” nature reserve. Here too, nature has reclaimed the former mine. New biospheres have formed and become home to amphibians, reptiles, insects, bats, birds and plants, including extraordinary wild orchids.

History and rhubarb cake From here we walk downhill to Fond-de-Gras, a former mining centre turned historic open air park. The old Fond-de-Gras train station has been preserved in its original state and, quite literally, takes us back to the steam train era.

mechanics. We’re one big role-playloving family!”

The “Train 1900”, a historic steam train, is a special attraction that runs on a fixed schedule between Pétange and Fond-de-Gras and takes visitors on a journey into the past.

We hike through thick, mountainous forests towards Lasauvage. Along the way we come across countless mining relics including “Bremswee”, tracks used by “Buggies”, mining carts with which the precious ore was transported out of the mines. Vestiges, like old pylons and overgrown railway tracks, feel like whispers of a past epoch.

The train station houses an old-fashioned café. The rhubarb cake is as delicious as the whitepermed lady behind the counter is cheerful. “It takes you back to the turn of the century, doesn’t it? We’re all club members. I mean, everyone who works here. From guards to train drivers, café employees to steam train

The “Kabaisercher” in Lasauvage is an absolute gem. This is where we spend the night. Architect Anouck Pesch artfully transformed this former worker’s house into an abode that blends history with modern comfort. Inside, there’s a large common room as well as several distinctly designed rooms. Every room features artistic frescos of the

The water and bird reserve “Dumontshaff” is part of the Natura 2000 network of nature reserves. Visit to witness the splendour of the Alzette valley. Following the decking through this haven of biodiversity, spot storks and lapwings in their breeding habitat and, if you’re lucky, see water buffaloes in the wetlands. A rare insight into a protected ecosystem.

Walking and resting:  The Minett Trail is a 90-kilometre tour of nature and history. Various nature reserves demonstrate why the Minett region is also known as “land of red rocks”. 10 different trails connect all key towns and attractions and provide a perfect way to explore the region at your own pace. www.minetttrail.lu  The “Kabaisercher” were created in 2022 when Esch was the European Capital of Culture. Just like with music, the old was “remixed” to create something new and unexpected places were transformed into overnight accommodation. Spend the night at a “Kabaisercher” while exploring the Minett-Trail. www.simpleviu.com

“wild woman” who gave this place its name. Staying here is not just relaxing, it is an immersion into Lasauvage’s culture and history. The next morning, we leave Lasauvage along the babbling “Crosnière” on our way to Differdange where we will take the free train to Schifflange. To round off our Minett Trail weekend adventure we chose the easiest lap from Schifflange to Bergem. It’s also the most unusual in the region. Instead of red earth, forest and ever-changing industrial sectors, we embark on a tour of Luxembourg’s marshes. Water buffaloes included, if we’re lucky. The wetlands around the Alzette form a water and bird sanctuary named “Dumontshaff”. For decades, this whole area was dry. Now, after a renaturing project, rare species such as storks have returned. The wooden decking, which make up the majority of the trail, creak under our feet. All

around us, marsh plants with big pink blossoms grow in abundance. Butterflies rest on the sun-kissed wooden boards along the way. We pause on the bridge across the Alzette, let our feet dangle and admire the grasslands. The path leads slowly uphill from here. Things are drier. Steppe-like landscapes emerge. We scan the riverbank. Could the black spot all the way in the distance between the reeds and the poplars be a water buffalo? We’d like to think so. The sun makes the dragonflies glimmer metallic-green. They are definitely real.

Everything in flux Every step of the way we see how deeply humans encroached on this environment and much of it is changing yet again. Now, humans try to shape their surroundings in harmony with nature. Everything is in a state of flux. We can’t wait to see what else will have changed on our next Minett visit.

The common room in the Lasauvage “Kabaisercher” features a huge fresco recounting the story of the “wild woman”, a legend that gives this place its name. She is said to have roamed the woods of Lasauvage clad in only her wild hair, glowing eyes and terrifying claws. Memories of a mystical past.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

World heritage: enjoy the breathtaking views of the new Belval district and its surroundings from the observation deck of furnace A. Visitors climb over 180 stairs to reach the platform.

The Good Life BETTEMBOURG’S FAIRYTALE PARK AND ADVENTURE TRAIL

The giant's

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

journey Bettembourg’s “Parc Merveilleux” (fairytale park) is a tourist magnet which is well-known in Luxembourg and beyond the country’s borders. Its landmark is the giant, lying next to a playground for children to climb onto. But one day the giant wakes from his slumbers. Are you brave enough to follow him through the park and the town of Bettembourg? Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

It took a lot of effort to decorate the water tower with the giant. But it was worth it, and now the friendly giant waves to the whole town. The best place to see the tower from Parc Merveilleux is from the donkey enclosure. If you stand at the base of the tower, you can bring the giant to life with augmented reality.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The giant suddenly snores loudly, shifts in his sleep and Léa and Ben almost fall off his belly in shock. Is he alive after all? The two five-year-olds look towards the source of the noise. It’s just a loudspeaker! And the good old giant in Bettembourg’s Parc Merveilleux is only a model. But what if he really did come to life?

A park mascot

In addition to characters from the local community, the story is inspired by real-life events. For example, the little Thumbelina figure really did disappear from the park. And there really was a “Ghost Army” in Bettembourg during the Second World War: in which dummy tanks and actors posed as soldiers to make the enemy believe there was a huge army stationed there.

Many of the stations in Parc Merveilleux are familiar to several generations of Luxembourgers. The little horses that ride through the forest are definitely one of them. Ben and Léa really enjoy the ride through the forest. “Again!” they shout.

The giant, whose name in Luxembourgish is “De Ris”, has been the park’s mascot from the very beginning. He has changed his appearance over the years and used to look much scarier. “My grandma used to say that if you’re not good, the giant will wake up in the park,” says Patrick Hurt, communications manager for the municipality of Bettembourg, with a grin. Of course, he too has known the giant since he was a child. There is a comic book all about the park’s giant for those who are curious to know what would happen if he were to get up and start walking around… The comic book’s images show how the giant, who has been sleeping in the park for decades, suddenly wakes up. He and the park’s animals are delighted at first. But then the friendly “Ris” discovers that his close companion, Thumbelina, who usually always stays by his side, has disappeared. Has she been kidnapped? He must return to the fairytale park to find out. The giant sets off together with Lori the parrot, and searches all over Bettembourg until he gets to the bottom of the mystery.

Friends Ben and Léa enjoy racing between the fairytale stations, as well as listening to and watching the stories unfold. The original buildings contain various scenes from the most famous fairy tales. Each window in which characters move is a chapter of the story.

The highlight of the whole story is that you can follow the giant’s path on a short hike in Bettembourg using a special town map. There are echoes of the giant and his friends all over the town. The giant can be seen sleeping in the park with a book of his story beside him. You can also find his oversized red cap on a meadow, or spot him on the town’s large water tower, seated and soaking wet in

the town park’s pond, leading visitors into the town’s old orchard where cows keep the grass short, and you can even bring the giant to life using the augmented reality app. The whole experience is ideal for family outings.

Real life and fiction collide The idea of using the fairytale park for a real story on the one hand and turning the small town of Bettembourg into a stage for a tourist experience, namely the giant’s adventure trail, had been on the minds of committed Bettembourg residents for some time. “As part of Esch2022 Capital of Culture, we then said: we have to make this happen!”, says Patrick Hurt. In 2019, plans were made, the adventure trail was put together and Bettembourg artists created works of art at each of the giant’s stop-off points. Last but not least, two well-known comic book creators wrote a comic book: Lucien Czuga who, among other things, invented the likeable Luxembourg superhero “Superjhemp”, and Andy Genen, a young illustrator and graphic artist whose penmanship can be found in several projects and heroes. The fact that the book was published as part of Esch2022 – European Capital of Culture, and to mark the tenth anniversary of the Bettembourg “LiteraTour” Book Festival, fits with the idea of bringing things together: past and present, fiction and reality, art and nature.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

On their walk through Bettembourg, authors Lucien Czuga and Andy Genen bump into Mayor Laurent Zeimet. “My three children have already tried out the trail and love it. People really do come here just for the adventure trail,” he enthuses. 23

Oops, the giant has fallen on his bottom! On his search for Thumbelina, he also ends up in the park’s pond.

Dancing with wolves: Ben and dad Patrick keep an eye out for the wolves in the fairy tale park at this station. Hopefully Little Red Riding Hood has found a good hiding place!

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

As a well-loved Luxembourg attraction, the authors themselves know the park well. Andy Genen, a child of the 1970s, has fond memories of his visits there. “My favourite thing was always the tiny horses and the little racing cars,” he says. Rediscovering the park as part of his research was great fun. “The park is special. It is not as stressful as going to a big amusement park and it has its own flair,” says Andy.

Places that really exist Andy Genen was quickly taken with the idea of the book. He says: “Lucien and I were contacted by comic collectors Charel Bauer and Alex Kloos from Bettembourg and immediately agreed,” he recalls. “We worked on it for two years,” says “Superjhemp” father Lucien Czuga, who has become an institution in the Luxembourg comic book scene. Lucien wrote the texts while Andy drew. “During the process, it was interesting to see which stations we could depict graphically and how. It’s a real town, the places really exist. That’s an exciting challenge,” says Lucien. Children from the local community also lent a hand after a call for ideas about what the giant should experience on his journey. So what does the giant’s journey look like? The two authors are happy to wander along the adventure trail with Patrick Hurt from the municipality. Visitors can choose from the 6.7- or 9.7-kilometre circular routes. In all, there

Patrick Hurt from the municipality of Bettembourg, author Lucien Czuga and illustrator Andy Genen stroll through a “Bongert” or orchard in Bettembourg and enjoy the peace and quiet. The orchard is one of the stops on the signposted circular route. Some of the oldest fruit trees in the Grand Duchy can be found here.

Fairytale experience  Relive the giant’s journey for yourself by ordering a copy of the comic book, merchandise or the city map, directly from the municipality of Bettembourg, in Bettembourg’s Parc Merveilleux or online. www.deris.info  Parc Merveilleux is also known beyond the country’s borders as a peaceful park without the stress, the hustle and bustle associated with some amusement parks. In addition to animal enclosures, playgrounds and small rides, fairytale stations with animated figures are scattered throughout the park. It is here that Snow White, Rapunzel, Little Red Riding Hood and Luxembourg’s fairytale heroes come to life.

are 15 giant stations, designed by 13 Luxembourg artists, with street art, sculptures made of various materials, augmented reality and more. The water tower station with the oversized giant on top can be seen from the donkey enclosure in Parc Merveilleux. But if you stand directly in front of the tower, you can bring the giant and Lori the parrot to life on your phone by downloading the app. Lori the parrot has also been immortalised by graffiti artists in the town, a work of art which has achieved cult status in Bettembourg. And what of Thumbelina? You can spot this character on a bench beside the path. Would the “Ris” like to take a break? Visitors can do that at a chunky table. Perhaps he would like to travel to another country? Or

 Fancy spending the night in Bettembourg in true fairytale style? Now you can at the Bettembourg “Kabaisercher”, in the red-brick tower at the entrance to the park. This special overnight lodge is one of several scattered along the Minett Trail hiking experience. The highlight of Bettembourg’s accommodation is that you can climb the tower, just like Rapunzel! Breakfast is available in the morning via a secret door in the courtyard if required. www.minetttrail.lu

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

does he just need to lift a train back onto the track? You can find out at the station. And who is actually responsible for waking him from his slumber? Was it magic? A golden apple at the entrance to the beautiful and luscious “Bongert” or orchard, can help visitors to solve this mystery. Of course all will be well at the end of this fairytale. However, there remain plenty more adventures to be written about the giant, Lori and Thumbelina. In the meantime, visitors can see for themselves how the little town of Bettembourg became the adventure playground of a great hero.

Real wolves and moving horses After their visit to the sleeping giant in Bettembourg’s Parc Merveilleux, Léa and Ben continue to enjoy their day: crossing wooden bridges, stroking goats and donkeys, shaking at the sight of snakes and reptiles, discovering white wolves, riding through the forest on bobbing horses, and trying out the many playgrounds. They are also fascinated by the fairytale stations that have been in the park since the beginning. Some of the figures date back to the 1960s, but some are brand new, and the children are amazed by the fairy tales from Luxembourg that they had never heard of before. After all, good stories work for every generation.

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The Good Life GREVENMACHER BUTTERFLY GARDEN

Follow the flutter of butterfly wings Tucked away in the picturesque town of Grevenmacher is a place that transports visitors to another world. Visit the butterfly garden for a natural show of colour. Text and Photos TOM JUTZLER

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The garden blooms with life. Every visit begins with the fluttering of wings and a firework display of colours. Everywhere hums and buzzes, and the scent of exotic plants permeates the warm, humid air in the large greenhouse that houses the garden. But it’s not just the butterflies that make this place so special. The people behind the scenes also play a big role. One of them is Pit. A cheerful young man with a slight learning impairment.

The butterfly garden in Grevenmacher is not just a home for butterflies and an educational site for visitors, it is also a place where people with special needs or disabilities can learn and grow.

Educational centre Here they have the opportunity to learn practical skills and prepare for the demands of working life.

A small piece of paradise on the banks of the Moselle: the butterfly garden is the ideal place for nature lovers. Located in the wine-growing town of Grevenmacher, visitors can take a stroll through the 600m² site, the highlight of which is a tropical garden with hundreds of exotic butterflies.

A butterfly’s favourite food Pit’s eyes light up when he talks about his work. He has an eye for detail that is essential in this delightful garden. The garden helps him to prepare for working life “outside”, and he goes about his work with commitment and enthusiasm. When we meet Pit, he is feeding a group of bright blue morpho butterflies. “They like overripe bananas,” he explains with a smile as he carefully places a banana on a feeding spot. His fingers move carefully and his movements are deliberate. Pit talks about the different species that live in the garden, from the tiny, inconspicuous butterflies to the magnificent specimens with brightly coloured wings. His knowledge is impressive and his enthusiasm infectious. You can’t help but share his love for these delicate creatures.

For climatic reasons, the butterfly garden is only open from April to October. The temperature here is a constant 28°C and humidity is always high. Families in particular can spend a pleasant hour or two here and buy souvenirs and books in the store, which sometimes even hosts readings!

Pit checks the tickets of newly arrived visitors. “I’m needed here. And I learn something new every day,” he says enthusiastically. In addition to butterflies, Pit deals with other fascinating animals: a chameleon slinking through the greenhouse, the quails flitting about, the crawling spiders and small fluttering birds, not to mention the colourful koi carp circling in the pond. Exotic plants complete the picture, giving the impression of being in another country.

Doing your own research in the lab Another highlight of Grevenmacher’s butterfly garden is the so-called laboratory. In this

room school classes and interested visitors can dive deeper into the world of butterflies. The laboratory is equipped with modern microscopes that allow people to study these fascinating insects in intimate detail. “Here, children can look at the creatures up close and explore their structure,” explains Sandra, one of the supervising instructors, as she leads us into the lab.

Learning to fly Under the microscope, you can see the fine scales that cover the butterflies’ wings. The children also make out the complex compound eyes on these creatures and the fine hairs that cover their bodies. “It’s incredible when children make their first discoveries. Their eyes light up and they are so excited that they can hardly stand still. That is the moment when they understand that nature is full of wonders waiting to be discovered,” enthuses Sandra. Visitors don’t always need microscopes for research; they can also observe the different life cycles of butterflies. From caterpillar to pupa, from hatching to majestic flight - they can see everything happening right here in front of their eyes. The butterfly garden sparks curiosity and encourages people to explore. It is a place that encourages a love of nature and perhaps inspires the next

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Visitors don’t always need microscopes for research; they can also observe the different life cycles of butterflies.

Butterflies live for only two weeks. Where do they come from? It’s a mix: some are delivered from Costa Rica and the Philippines and home-grown locally.

Thanks to the tropical climate in the greenhouse, it is not only butterflies from all over the world that live here. A number of Chinese dwarf quails, chameleons, tortoises, various bird species and a bee colony (inside a glass box) also call this place home. Colourful flowers and an idyllic atmosphere make this a place for children and adults to dream and learn new things.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

generation of naturalists and conservationists.

It’s not just the butterflies that make this place so special. The people behind the scenes make a significant contribution. One of them is Pit. Here he is pictured taking children on a tour of the garden and collection stations.

The cosy store is directly connected to the garden. This is where nature meets handcrafted art. Visitors will find a range of lovingly crafted gifts and souvenirs, from jewellery inspired by the colours and shapes of the butterflies living in the garden, to locally produced honey products.

Store and café An employee proudly shows us some of them: “Many items are inspired by our butterflies,” she explains as she holds up a piece of jewellery shaped like a magnificent monarch butterfly. The store leads on to the café, from where visitors can watch the comings and goings while indulging in a slice of homemade cake and a cup of freshly brewed coffee.

Coming together A meeting place for visitors and the staff who look after them, people of all ages and from different walks of life come together here to share the magic of the garden. It’s a place to relax, laugh and learn, to celebrate the simplicity and beauty of nature. The butterfly garden in Grevenmacher is more than just a garden. It is a place for discovery, education, encounters and pleasure. It is a garden that fills the hearts of visitors with joy and wonder and leaves a lasting impression.

Transforming Experiences NATURE ADVENTURE CENTRE ROBBESSCHEIER

Horsepower with purpose Charel Braquet and his Ardennes horses are a winning team. Come and meet them at the Robbesscheier nature adventure centre! Text SIEGLINDE MARX Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Charel Braquet has been working with the majestic and good-natured horses since he was young. They are strong and reliable. He sees them as colleagues. A perfect team.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Picture a coniferous forest on an early summer morning. We are in the north of Luxembourg. The lingering coolness of the night dissipates along with the last few dew drops as the first sunbeams appear. Deeper in the forest, you’ll notice the typical woodsy scent: the blended aroma of dark green needles and resin seeping through the branches. Suddenly, there are chomping sounds. Then, the chiming of horse harnesses. Moments later, thudding hooves softened by the forest ground. Branches move and a long log is dragged across the ground. Charel Braquet and his Ardennes carthorses, Bieke and Jasmin, are moving tree trunks, a familiar sight on these steep hills.

Animal welfare first

“The way back to the village is so short, it’s not worth taking the trailer. And the carriage is more fun,” he says. The path follows a quiet forest trail, then leads through the village where they share the road with cars. For the locals, Bieke and Jasmin are an integral part of daily life in the village. They don’t bat an eyelid. Visitors however, always look pleasantly surprised and puzzled at the same time. Either way, Charel Braquet and the horses keep cool.

Prrr: Relax! Soon we reach Robbesscheier. This is where the horses live and Charel Braquet works. “Prrrrr” - the stout horses come to a halt outside their stables. The modern, wooden-clad building melds perfectly with its pastoral setting. Charel Braquet expertly removes the harnesses before leading the horses to the rest of the herd. Time to relax.

Fringes aren’t the latest fashion trend for horses. In fact, they were inspired by zebras. Because of their compound eyes, flies can’t recognize fringes and therefore let the horses be. Natural, practical and smart.

Sweat drips from Charel Braquet’s forehead and his clothes are stained. “It’s not easy work but I can’t imagine anything more amazing this early in the morning,” he says laughing and visibly satisfied. The sun is getting warmer now which means the first part of the workday is over for Charel Braquet and his four-legged colleagues. “Logging is hard work for the horses. It’s really important to me that they feel well. That’s why I stop forest work as soon as the temperature rises,” he explains while removing the horses’ harnesses. He gives them water and attaches them to a nifty carriage.

“For the horses, at least,” he says with a grin. For Charel Braquet, the second part of the day begins. He is director of the workhorse centre at Robbesscheier, a nature adventure centre where children and families can explore the natural world through workshops.

Young apprentices

Explore important facets of agriculture on the Robbesscheier grounds. Find out how fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in greenhouses and vegetable beds.

Charel Braquet’s first stop? The paddock, of course. A glance is enough for him to know everything is alright. “If you spend a lot of time with horses you learn to understand them. Just as they see through us and our body language too. If I’m in a bad mood, they’ll know and behave accordingly. It prompts me to take a minute to cool off. Then I can go back to work feeling like a new person,” he says.

Next stop? The apiary. A group of apprentice beekeepers in astronaut-like suits, led by apiarist Dana Ross, observe a comb full of worker bees. Suddenly, there’s excitement. “There! The queen!” a mini-beekeeper exclaims. Charel Braquet grins. Here too, everything is going well. He continues past the bunnies, goats and donkeys to the large vegetable garden. Here he greets fellow horse-lover Romain Mores, the landscaper, and his son Simon, a Robbesscheier apprentice who wants to follow in his father’s footsteps. The greenhouse is the home of tomatoes, cucumbers and chilis. Outside, red and white beets are almost ready for harvest. “This morning I already took carrots, zucchini and peas to the restaurant. You’ll probably find them on your plate in a minute,” says Romain winking at his colleague.

Real teamwork with horses During lunch, Charel Braquet shares where his passion for Ardennes horses comes from. “My parents always had horses. I started horse riding when I was little but at some point, I didn’t like it anymore. Through my work with Robbesscheier I got to know about work horses. For me, working with these animals is genuine teamwork. It requires humility and a somewhat essentialist perspective. It’s much more gratifying than typical equestrianism,” he says.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

A carriage ride drawn by gently trotting Ardennes horses is a highlight for families and school groups.

Explore the countryside  “Um Knapphaff” is a familyowned agricultural business where children can and should pitch in. You can also host children’s birthday parties here. www.um-knapphaff.lu  “A Schmatten” in Schuttrange is an educational farm that welcomes families and school kids alike. Learn about everything from bread baking to mucking out the stables. You’ll get a taste of country life both past and present. www.a-schmatten.lu

Adventure tours Whether in tourism, forestry or landscape management, workhorses can be employed in many sectors. The biggest challenge is training people who prioritise animal welfare and work safety for both horses and humans. After lunch, Charel Braquet prepares the Ardennes horses for the afternoon carriage rides. “During workshops visitors can help care for the horses. Children are often a little scared but I explain to them that they don’t

Calm is required when dealing with bees. The children learn that bees aren’t necessarily dangerous. You just have to behave correctly.

need to be scared but they do need to respect the animals. I then suggest they simply hold their hand in front of the horse. When the horse lowers their head and sniffs the hand, something indescribable happens between them,” he explains, moved. This is where he sees his work: “Children who grow up in the countryside have knowledge city kids don’t have. That’s where we come in!” he says and jumps into the carriage driver’s seat to lead a group of school kids on an adventure through the Munshausen greenery.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The creation of the Robbesscheier workhorse centre gave Charel Braquet a new purpose: educating people about workhorses and reintroducing them into our lives.

 “A Mëchels” offers an insight into cattle breeding as well as three holiday flats. The speciality is the Wagyu cattle. They have a home here in the Our Nature Park in the north of the country. www.amechels.lu

 “An Neipéitsch” in Reimberg is a modern milk farm with cows, calves, bunnies and ponies. Visitors learn about the milk production process and can also lend a hand. www.visitatertwark.lu

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Outdoors Passion HAFF RÉIMECH AND BIODIVERSUM

Naturally passionate! Visit the enchanting “Haff Réimech” nature reserve and its “Biodiversum” to connect with nature and learn about conservation. Enthusiastic staff share insights and guide tours. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

In the beginning, there were animals. “I love animals!” says Kerstin Rose. The tall, blonde woman walks through the “Haff Réimech” nature reserve. Her gaze rests on the quiet pond. Suddenly, there’s flapping and three coots land on the water, creating ripples on the surface. They shriek three times. Then, silence. Kerstin Rose is a guide who leads mostly young visitors through the reserve and “Biodiversum”. Step by step, literally, she introduces them to the world of conservation and sustainability.

She applied for the “Biodiversum” guide job without expecting to get it because her qualifications didn’t match. “I immediately realised that she is a motivated, dedicated and charismatic person who is committed to her work and has great ideas,” says Steve Jungen. He manages the “Centre nature et forêt Biodiversum Camille Gira” and is touring the reserve with Kerstin today to view several new sites. Thrilled to be part

of his team, it is clear to see that Kerstin is a woman with a calling. All of this takes place in and around the “Biodiversum”, a futuristic and sustainable building that looks like an upturned wooden ship. Three floors depict the local environment and all its elements worth protecting. For example, one timeline illustrates how the Moselle riverscape has changed: It started as a naturally wide river with branches, islands, sandbars, gravel and reed beds.

Futuristic meets sustainability Kerstin is actively involved in creating the centre’s activities, like for “Bird Watching Day” where visitors can come and observe the feathered animals. Together with her colleagues she also developed a scavenger hunt to make tours even more exciting. Some of the questions are actually pretty tricky such as the “find the tiny metal birds up in the trees” challenge. All of this is thrilling and educational and requires a certain pedagogical knack. In her previous job though, Kerstin Rose was a veterinarian, not a teacher. “But I’ve always loved this nature reserve,” she says. “It’s my favourite place in Luxembourg!” Her love of Luxembourg motivated her to move there. She now lives in Wintrange with her husband and their two children, not far from her job.

The “Biodiversum” is a futuristic and sustainable building that looks like an upturned wooden ship. Three floors depict the local environment and all its elements worth protecting. Permanent and temporary exhibits help children and adults grasp – in every sense of the word – it all.

Kerstin Rose and Steve Jungen know from experience: “Biodiversum” visits are always impressive, entertaining and educational. Here, Kerstin Rose uses the timeline to illustrate how the Moselle landscape has changed over time (below).

Over time, it became a straightened waterway with controlled water levels and mostly developed riverbanks. “A former gravel pit has turned into an ersatz-habitat that we nurture and keep accessible artificially so it won’t become overgrown. In this sense, our nature reserve is not wild but tended by people to protect a diversity of species. Whether it’s reed, gravel or sand beds, we have

to fight shrub encroachment and even fell the occasional tree to preserve these habitats and their biodiversity,” explains Steve Jungen. The goal is to mimic the dynamics of a natural river including water levels, erosion and sedimentation. Of course the “Biodiversum” also presents all the different animal species living here. What do bitterns look like? Starlings? Cormorants? Permanent and temporary exhibits help children and adults grasp - in every sense of the word - it all. “Haff Réimech” is home to 76 percent of Luxembourg’s detected bird species and the most biodiverse local wetlands. Many migratory birds stop here on their way south.

Small steps, big impact Sustainability and conservation are the number one priority. “Every tour through our reserve begins with an overview of our rules,” says Kerstin Rose. Even as she guides tours, both she and visitors pick up trash along the way. Another benefit: children who don’t have much contact with nature learn about nature conservation and can share that knowledge back home. “An important point: we teach them about specific actions they can take without overwhelming or frustrating them,” says Steve Jungen. Small steps are the key. Showing people: What can I do here and now?

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Retiree Matthias W. regularly comes here all the way from Saarland to photograph the birds at dawn and enjoy the tranquility. He purchased his camera equipment when he retired after working in Luxembourg-City for many years. He leads a different life now and clearly enjoys it.

There are two circuits in “Haff Réimech”. The short one spans 2,2 kilometres, the long one 4,6 kilometres. Something for everyone.

“Haff Réimech” is not a nature park where things grow wild and are left untouched. Instead, it’s a nature conservation area with ersatz-habitats preserved by humans in accordance with species’ needs.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The reserve is home to beautiful dry stone walls with hollows full of animals and plants. There’s also an “apiary” made of various sandstones, a herb spiral and many other compelling examples of sustainable gardening and landscaping. “If only more people had dry stone walls in their gardens instead of concrete,” says Steve Jungen.

Shaped biodiversity The path leads over wooden planks through reeds protected by canopies of leaves. Some low-hanging branches form natural archways. There are viewpoints throughout the

reserve, some of which are stilt huts. Every now and then, frogs dive into the water. “Every season is gorgeous here but spring is the best,” says Kerstin Rose, while admiring her surroundings. “That’s when bird calls turn into an open-air concert.” The coots chime in. Not the gentlest voices in the ornithological world, but definitely part of a whole.

“Biodiversum” nature guides Luc Gossmann and Isabelle Zwick are pictured setting up signs near the apiary for the scavenger hunt.

Nature: an educational experience Luxembourg is currently home to 60 nationally established nature reserves. This ensures that 8.116 hectares, about 3 percent of Luxembourg’s land surface, are protected. Visitors will also enjoy Luxembourg’s nature parks:  “Naturpark Öewersauer” is located in the north-western region of Luxembourg. At its heart lies a 3,8km2 reservoir, a recreational destination that also provides drinking water to the country. The nature park extends around the reservoir. Enjoy a long hike or cycling tour through the park. Or maybe even explore the lake with a solar boat ride? www.naturpark-sure.lu  Explore “Naturpark Our” in the Ardennes in the tri-border region between Luxembourg, Belgium and Germany. It is shaped by the vast plateau and the narrow, romantic shale valleys formed by side creeks of the Our and Clerve rivers. www.naturpark-our.lu  The history of “Natur- & Geopark Mëllerdall” began 245 million years ago in an ocean. Countless grains of sand and other particles solidified into rock. The ocean disappeared and rivers shaped this now magnificent rocky landscape. www.naturpark-mellerdall.lu

Daydream CASTLES AS INSPIRING PLACES OF POWER

Dreams of travel and castles Castles can be places of power, or simply offer a place to daydream. Actress Hana Sofia Lopes and hotel manager Mayke Van Straalen explore the magic of Luxembourg’s castles. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Sometimes dreams and visions can move entire buildings. This was the case with a small castle in the village of Clemency, near the Belgian border in Luxembourg. Built by the lords of Clemency in the 14th century, in the 17th century its owner had a vision that the former ruins would shine again in new splendour.

Mayke, who comes from the Netherlands, recalls: “I was travelling through here in 2021, on my way back from a threeweek trip through Italy. Something told me: ‘You have to spend the night here! Something special is going to happen!’” Mayke immediately fell in love with the hotel. She told the owner Pascal Zimmer. He realised:

this woman belongs here! And a few weeks later, Mayke quit her job as an undertaker, a job which she had always been passionate about, left the Netherlands, and moved into the top floor of the hotel. She has been running it ever since. “It is simply marvellous! I have no regrets, I love the little castle, the encounters with people, Luxembourg and our other projects!”

And so the stones were removed and rebuilt just 30 metres away from the original site. Clemency’s little castle has stood in its “new location” since 1651. Since then it has been rebuilt again and again. In 2009, it was renovated and turned into a hotel by the architect, businessman and visionary Pascal Zimmer, who is known in Luxembourg for his many lifestyle projects. Not long ago, this attractive, dark grey and white building had a life-changing impact on a traveller.

Castle connections

Mayke van Straalen (r) and Hana Sofia Lopes meet at Schlosshotel Clemency. They live very different lives. But meeting people is central to both of their jobs. © CLAUDE PISCITELLI

Mayke Van Straalen’s fate is now inextricably linked to the castle. Beaming, she leads her visitor through the corridors and up and down the narrow stairs, showing her the new room with the large table for cosy, sociable evenings and the homey terrace in the converted former shed. She walks with her through the Sherlock Holmes suite and Peggy’s “Belle Epoque”, a room designed entirely by the artist Peggy Dihé. Each room tells its own story. There are valuable collector’s items everywhere, from crockery to works of art.

Together with Pascal Zimmer, she has opened a bed and breakfast in Beaufort, among other places, and will soon open new bed and breakfasts in Vianden and Wormeldange.

Always a fresh start Her visitor nods thoughtfully. The young woman with the long, dark hair is Hana Sofia Lopes, an actress from Luxembourg with Portuguese roots. “Sometimes the universe has something special in store!” She says as she has coffee with Mayke at the bar, which is also the reception desk. The two women hit it off straight away, discussing life choices and encounters. They both agree that you have to push yourself, and every day brings new possibilities that can lead to something really big.

profession. She has been to the Lisbon and Toronto film festivals and award ceremonies, but she always comes back to Luxembourg. This is where she grew up and where she lives in her parents’ house in the centre of the country. “I love the nature in Luxembourg,” the young actress stresses. Taking long walks in places she has loved since childhood are just as important as recharging her batteries in spots she has only recently gotten to know. One such place is the garden of the “new” Ansembourg Castle in the Guttland region, an ideal place to let your imagination go wild. Two cats greet Hana Sofia behind the wrought-iron gate. Large goldfish frolic in the water basin, which is flanked by topiary trees. Further down, a fountain flows. It is as if this garden is waiting for the new lady of the castle, who

Starting from scratch can be an enriching experience. For example, when you leave your job and start something completely different like Mayke has done. Or, like Hana Sofia, when she has to familiarise herself with a completely new role that also changes you as a person and helps you grow. Hana Sofia is known in the film scene for, among many other things, the film “Kanaval” and a role in the TV series “Capitani”. She has also performed in theatres across Luxembourg in a variety of productions, such as “Hedda Gabler” and “Medea”. Hana Sofia travels a lot in her

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

wanders between the columns, hedges and flowers. Statues look up at the sky, down at the ground or directly at the visitors. “Ever since I did a shoot for a film about the beauty of Luxembourg’s castles, this has been one of my favourite places,” says Hana Sofia.

A new lady of the castle? The actress likes to walk between the trees or through the labyrinth of hedges, slowly climb the stairs and look at the castle from the outside. When will life return to this place? What would it be like

Ansembourg Castle is currently in a kind of slumber. It is not yet clear what will happen within its walls in the future. At the moment, only the romantically designed garden with its baroque features is open to visitors.

Vianden Castle is considered among the most beautiful castles in the world. Visitors can also approach the formidable walls via hiking trails and the chairlift.

Tips:

A favourite place: Clemency Castle Hotel adds special touches for its guests, turning rooms into fictional worlds like here with the 1920s themed a room, a theme which is reflected down to the smallest detail.

to shoot a film here? What would it be like to have a hotel or a café here? Perhaps, time will tell. Hana Sofia Lopes has grown fond of yet another castle: the magnificent Vianden Castle, a crowd-pleaser and at the same time a place where quiet corners can also be found in the castle chapel, in the long corridors, at the characteristic windows with their breathtaking views, between the walls and under the archway.

Life and the universe When Hana Sofia talks, she does so in many different languages. She is fluent in French, and with her family and in Portugal she speaks her mother tongue, Portuguese. That is typical of Luxembourg, and even more so for

someone who leads a polyglot life. When she talks about Toronto, where she bought her vintage leather coat, she switches to English. Memories of the family’s dog in Luxembourg are shared in Luxembourgish and, when the German interviewer talks about something personal, she switches to German. Empathising, putting yourself in other people’s shoes, thinking about how and why, Hana Sofia does this naturally and with genuine interest, which is why it is so pleasant to walk with her. Chatting and wandering between old walls: perhaps Mayke will be back for Hana Sofia’s next visit to the castle. Because nothing fires up the imagination better than talking to other inspiring people. Chatting about yesterday and today, life, the universe and all the rest.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

 Vianden Castle, located in the north of Luxembourg, is open to visitors all year round. It is one of the most popular castles in the world for travellers, who also love to explore the surrounding areas on foot. www.castle-vianden.lu  The romantic garden of Ansembourg Castle is a popular stopping off point in the Valley of the Seven Castles in the Guttland region.

A trip to the other six castles is also worthwhile! The “Old castle” of Ansembourg houses a cosy bed and breakfast, which is run by the current Count of the castle. www.visitguttland.lu  The castle hotel of Clemency is just one of Luxembourg’s exceptional accommodations. In every region, there is something special to discover! www.visitluxembourg.com/ plan-your-stay/stay

The Luxembourg Story Michel Engels (1851-1901), Bilder aus der Luxemburger Sage und Geschichte, Die Lützelburg auf dem Bockfelsen, 963-1543 (detail), around 1886

PERMANENT EXIHIBITION

MORE THAN 1000 YEARS

OF URBAN HISTORY

TUE - SUN 10 - 18.00 THU 10 - 20.00 MON closed

citymuseum.lu

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Transforming Experiences BORDER TO BORDER: A BIKE TOUR ALONG THE SURE RIVER

Go with the flow Three friends, three cyclists and a river: a wonderful, boundless adventure from west to east along the Sûre. Feel the European spirit on Luxembourg’s biking trails. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos ALFONSO SALGUEIRO

The river loop almost completely hugs the small village Esch-sur-Sûre. At the top lie castle ruins with small towers and flags.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The air is crisp on this early spring morning in Martelange on the Belgium-Luxembourg border. Near the bridge, right next to the gas station and the café, three men are preparing for a tour. The bikes are ready, the outfits snazzy, the mood jolly. One man pulls a thermos out of his backpack as well as three camping mugs, sugar cubes and a real German condensed milk, the one with the bear logo. “What’s that?” asks the man in the dark blue shirt in French. “That’s something I loved in Germany! But I made the coffee with a traditional Neapolitan coffee maker,” says the guy with the backpack. “I know German ‘Kaffeesahne’ (coffee cream),” says the third man in English, grinning. “I lived in Germany for a few years!”

friendships and memories from different countries throughout their lives. Everything is in a state of flux. Today, they want to follow the flow of a river. They love cycling. “It’s pure happiness,” says Georges. “And biking is honest. It forces you to face your limits, pushes you. You evolve. That stays with you your whole life. And biking with friends means spending a lot of time together.

The three friends start the bike tour on Luxembourg’s western border with some coffee. It’s May and the canola fields are in full bloom. You’ll find many of them along this tour.

Rooted in several countries Meet Alfonso Salgueiro, Georges Gloukoviezoff and Andres Gavira Etzel. Their friendship, their backgrounds, their story… all of it is quintessential Luxembourg. They live and work here but their family history is colourful, their roots literally from all over. Alfonso and Andres are Spanish. Georges is French with Italian and Russian roots. Alfonso and Georges’ wives are Irish. That’s how they met. Andres’ mother is German and he spent a few years studying in Munich. They’ve picked up habits,

The conversations get deeper and unfold along with the trails.”

A tour from west to east The tour Alfonso, Georges and Andres are about to embark on crosses Luxembourg from west to east along the Sûre. Begin your trip in Martelange on the Belgian border, then continue through Esch-sur-Sûre, Bourscheid, Ettelbruck, Echternach and Rosport until you reach Wasserbillig on the German border.

Wasserbillig, the tour’s grand finale on the German border, boasts several bridges and two rivers, the Sûre and the Moselle.

Along the way you’ll find many picturesque villages, insider tips and enchanting spots. Experienced cyclists can do the route in a day while leisure cyclists might enjoy doing it in two or three days. We leave Martelange with its many gas stations and dive right into the lush meadowlands surrounding the Sûre. The three friends head down the EuroVelo 5 Via Romea Francigena. Alfonso’s tour consists of bike paths and convenient roads with little traffic. Keep going past Arsdorf to reach Misärshaff, an old farm on the side of the road. From here, take the steep hill to Houfels to enjoy spectacular views. The wooden cabin perched on the precipice is iconic. Andres and Georges stand near the wooden fence and are delighted. This is their first time here. “When you’re biking, you always want to keep riding, so I wouldn’t

necessarily have taken the detour up here. But sometimes a one- or two-kilometre detour will take you to an amazing place like this one! It’s totally worth it!” says Georges. A wood cabin rests on the edge of the cliff, along with a bench. Further away, a deer dashes through the woods and the sun shines through the trees. It’s quite warm this morning, even in the woods. Georges pulls his mobile phone from his pocket. It’s wrapped in a plastic bag. “This way it’s protected from sweat and rain!” he says laughing. It’s good to be resourceful.

“Cycling heaven” Two young men on mountain bikes brave twigs, roots and rocks to reach the viewpoint. The three friends watch them appreciatively. Andres also enjoys mountain biking and thinks Luxembourg is ideal terrain. “Mountain biking is as crazy as it gets,” he says, smiling. Alfonso and Georges enjoy gravel biking. At 16, Alfonso was a successful racing cyclist. He trained a lot and would ride 250 kilometres a day on a weekend. “These days I ride for fun,” he says. All three agree that Luxembourg is a “cycling heaven”. The path leads our three friends along the Bavigne dam wall. It smells like BBQ. Small groups grill along the path and enjoy summerly barbecues. A small wooden house appears seemingly out of nowhere. A sign reads “De klenge Buttik”. Alfonso

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

The “Camping du Moulin” campsite is an inviting spot for a short break. Dip your feet in the river, relax and enjoy the views of Bourscheid castle.

Rivers and roads have always been a country’s lifelines. This is where goods are transported, voyages are made and perspectives changed.

Savour the soothing view of water. Take a cycling break, gaze at the reflection, breathe deeply.

The path is peppered with wooden bridges beckoning to be explored even if the track leads a different way.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

takes a peek inside. A few vending machines sell organic produce like eggs and potatoes. Probably not very practical if you’re cycling but there are also energy bars and sports drinks. These little “shops” are increasingly ubiquitous in Luxembourg. We continue along a beautiful tree-lined road. Black and white cows graze in the meadows. The trees cast shapely shadows. Leaves rustle in the wind.

scheid. Bright yellow canola fields hug the path. Spring is in the air. Cows watch as the three friends cycle by. Birds chirp. The path continues along the PC 16 towards Bourscheid. The bridge in Michelau offers a beautiful view of the castle. Right below the castle lies the “Camping du Moulin” campsite. Why not take a break on the river bank? Dip your feet in the

Houfels offers spectacular views with a delightful wooden cabin. Confluences often allow us to see the different river colours, like here in Wallendorf.

Culinary delights from around the globe The conversation of course revolves around food. “Here in Luxembourg, you’ll always find good quality ingredients, whether it’s for Italian, Portuguese, French or Spanish cuisine,” says Alfonso and takes a sip of alcohol-free beer. “Simply because people from those countries live here. They wouldn’t accept subpar ingredients!” Andres regales us with tales of paella and his wife’s cooking. She is from Valencia, motherland of paellas. Georges is “master of mayonnaise” and also enjoys making vegan lentil burgers with a very special recipe. Alfonso likes to make a chickpea, spinach, egg and garlic dish, Sevilla-style. The three friends agree: they’ll soon have to meet up for an international cooking night!

The cows' watchful eyes From Esch-sur-Sûre, they take the “Piste Cyclable 18” toward Heider-

water and relax while campers set up their tents or enjoy coffee on a deck chair. We’re still on the PC 16. In an industrial area near Ettelbruck, one of the larger northern towns, the Sûre and Alzette join blending both river colours. In Reisdorf, PC 16 becomes PC 3 Rivières. You’ll find another confluence near Wallendorf. Here, the Sûre and the Our join, a river that flows through the Éislek region and a gorgeous nature reserve. Continue the journey through Bollendorf and the Mullerthal region to reach Echternach. “I could spend all day here,” says Alfonso dreamily. Echternach is home to the Hopping Procession, small alleyways, international cuisine and the magnificent basilica. An attractive tourist destination, indeed. But our three friends want to continue

cycling to reach their goal before nightfall. There’s still time for an afternoon snack at the “Sauerpark Beach” restaurant at the Rosport’s campsite. Enjoy the restaurant’s maritime design and the patio’s lovely vacation vibes.

“We’ll be back!” The tour’s big finale? Wasserbillig on the German border. Here too, the Sûre joins another river: the majestic Moselle. Geese and swans nestle under the crossborder bridge. As the sun sets, the car ferry comes and goes between Luxembourg and Germany. “The tour was amazing,” says Andres as they toast with a last alcohol-free beer. From here, simply take the free train with your bike back to Luxembourg City. Georges is convinced: “We’ll be back!”

Mobility and more:  Travelling by bike? Don’t want to carry your own luggage? Check out Move We Carry, a luggage transport service that will bring your baggage from one lodging to another in exchange for a small fee. www.movewecarry.lu  Tired from the road? Flat tyre? Want to travel easily? Use free public transport to return to your home-base or simply choose another beautiful destination. For some vacay-vibes, try the electric-solar ferry “Sankta Maria” between Oberbillig in Germany and Wasserbillig. www.mobiliteit.lu

The statue of abbot Johannes Bertelius on the “Alte Sauerbrücke”, a historic bridge between Echternach and Echternacherbrück (Germany), bids the cyclists farewell.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

For many years now, Camping Kaul has welcomed its guests in a natural setting at the foot of the Ardennes. After the takeover by Coopérations s.c. in 2021, the human, sustainable and cultural values, true to the image of Coopérations s.c., are lived at Camping Kaul. Furthermore, the principles of the circular economy are emphasised. Many novelties and a warm welcome are guaranteed all year round. For those who want to combine adventure, sport and nature with pleasure, our various types of fully equipped chalets, which are constantly being upgraded, can be booked all year round. You can also have your food delivered and making this an unforgettable experience. Open all year round - in winter with a reduced range of accommodation.

Camping KAUL 60, Campingstrooss L-9554 Wiltz

Tél. : (+352) 95 03 59 1 E-mail : info@kaul.lu www.kaul.lu

The Good Life AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE IN VIANDEN

Floating on a journey through time A ride on the chairlift in Vianden is like travelling back in time. Slowly floating, gently swaying, machinery softly rattling. At the top, visitors can enjoy a spectacular view of the town and castle. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

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I’m standing in front of the ticket office at the valley station in Vianden. Further ahead, two chairs clatter around the corner. They are silver-grey, simple and surprisingly small. That’s exactly how they were back when I learnt to ski. I was just three years old when I sat on one for the first time, on my father’s lap. It’s exciting! We climb higher, only a thin bar separates us from tumbling down onto the mountain. At the same time your gaze wanders over the breathtaking landscape, your nose gets colder the higher you go, and you feel free, filled with happiness, a little excited and secure at the same time. Later, over the years, chairlifts have become futuristic, all-round oases of well-being. Padded to the hilt, heated, and with streamlined hoods to protect against snow and storms. Sometimes, just occasionally, I’ve sat in one of these high-tech armchair lifts, with seven other mountain friends sheltered from the weather and seated on cushions, and quietly missed the old days. The wobbles. The thrills. And now, here in Vianden, it’s all coming back to me on Luxembourg’s only chairlift!

ing machine here. Insert a coin, add a second coin for payment, turn the crank and you have a copper-coloured souvenir with Vianden Castle on it. Of course you have to do it – it’s simply part of the ultimate tourist experience! I slide the freshly minted coin into my wallet. A few steps further on, I’m standing on a yellow circle with an arrow pointing to the lift-off area. A nice young woman waves me over, directs me where to stand, pushes the chair under my buttocks, and off I go! Up towards the summit, just me, the sun and a sense of nostalgia. I float over houses, the river, a miniature golf course that also reminds me of the past, and glide slowly over gardens in my chair. It goes slowly, very slowly. My gaze wanders calmly. Swinging is

forbidden – just like on the ski lifts. Below me in the shade are children in a playground.

Just don't drop your phone! We cross the Our river. I take a photo, tensing up at the thought that my smartphone could fall off at any time and sink into the water of the river. I hold on tight. Soon I’m hovering over modern houses and forest. I spot a few hikers from above. And further up, diagonally to the left, sits Vianden Castle. The sun is intense. Next time I’ll have to wear a hat. Shortly before the exit, the path becomes steep and I see flowers blooming below. The machinery squeaks and the seat jumps as cables are tugged through the pulley.

The narrow alleyways, the Gothic churches, the outer wall with its fortified towers - every year, thousands of visitors are drawn to the pretty medieval old town of Vianden, situated at the foot of the mighty, restored castle.

Mint a coin for luck! In front of me, two tourists buy their tickets for the trip to the lofty heights of Vianden. Should I quickly have a two-cent coin pressed into a souvenir medal? As with other places that attract visitors, there is also a mint-

At the end of the ride, a sign on one of the poles reads: “Please smile in 50 metres!” And then, bam! A photo is taken. You can buy the photo once you get off - again with friendly help to avoid accidents. I buy the photo, of course, because I want the whole experience. It comes in a small cardboard presentation cover. I can only pay for it in cash - also old school! While rummaging through the coins in my purse, I come across my copper coin again. It’s delightful!

At the top, I enjoy a cool Coke and soak up the fantastic views all around me. The castle towers to the right and beckons. The path up there is rocky, crosses slate and winds through the forest; it looks wild in places and is impressive. You definitely need sturdy shoes here. I enjoy the impressive castle from afar. I’m not going to visit it today. I climb back down to the town for the last two stops on my journey. The narrow streets of Vianden are charming. People smile in the

sunshine. Like them and now me, the famous writer Victor Hugo once strolled through these streets. He was politically persecuted because at the end of the 19th century he protested against the French government for shooting at its own people during riots. He found his self-chosen and secret exile in Vianden, having already fallen in love with Vianden as a traveller.

With sand and coffee grounds The great Victor Hugo is remembered, among other things, in the name of a restaurant and hotel which looks out over the river and, of course, the house where he lived for a few weeks.

On the small balcony of the museum dedicated to the writer Victor Hugo, you can browse through his writings, get a breath of fresh air and imagine what it was like when he stood here, letting his mind wander and coming up with new ideas.

It was here that he wrote a poem dedicated to the city and at the same time to the suffering of children in Paris. But he also created other works. Victor Hugo created around 60 drawings during his time in Luxembourg. I enter the house, which is now a museum, and walk up the stairs to his study. A life-size sculpture sits at his desk, gazing thoughtfully into the distance. His eyes are fixed on Vianden Castle, a landmark which he adored and, of course, immortalised in paintings. Victor Hugo was an original man: he painted and drew sometimes with ink, sometimes even with sand and coffee grounds. He was open to new ideas, inquisitive, loved nature, respected stinging nettles and weeds just as much as cultivat-

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

At the end of the walk, cross the bridge from the castle into the town.

The metre-high portraits of workers on the dam wall are a “reverse graffiti” artwork by Dusseldorf artist Klaus Dauven.

Vianden Castle is one of the main attractions in the Éislek region. The castle towers mightily over the town. The armoury, crypt, chapel, knights’ hall and many other rooms transport visitors to the Middle Ages.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

ed roses. I wonder how often he walked to the castle and whether he would have liked the chairlift. He would probably have enjoyed the journey, discovering new details in the landscape. Special plants, wandering people, drinking bottles lost in the forest that can be seen from above.

Giant portraits on the dam wall Another art form that fascinated Victor Hugo was photography. If you stroll further around Vianden, you will discover something that brings past and present together in a wonderfully original way with the help of architecture and photography. On the outskirts of the town, I walk along the river, past the picturesque cemetery – and suddenly find myself standing

in front of the gigantic dam wall of the pumped storage power plant. Emblazoned on the wall are metre-high portraits of the workers who helped build the pumped storage power plant. The portraits are the work of Düsseldorf artist Klaus Dauven, who painted the photos on the wall with a few helpers and high-pressure cleaning equipment, on the initiative of the ViArt ASBL art association and in collaboration with the SEO (Société Electrique de l’Our). I have to smile. My uncle Walter, a civil engineer from Austria, was one of those who constructed the site in the 1950s. For a long time, I’ve wanted to look for a picture of him and the dam in the archives. I think of him again. Travelling with him, perhaps I once made a coin as a child. Coming here to Vianden has been a real journey through time.

The thinker picks up his pen, looks into the distance, gazes at the castle, then writes a line of poetry or prose.

Tips:  The chairlift takes visitors 440 metres above the Our valley.

During the summer season from April to the end of October it runs daily starting at 11am. At the top station, visitors can enjoy snacks and drinks before making their way down on foot. www.vianden.lu  Fancy a longer hike around Vianden in the beautiful Éislek in the north of Luxembourg? Check out the Éislek Pied circular hiking trails. Choose from different distances and levels of difficulty. What they all have in common are fantastic views and peaceful places to take a break. www.visit-eislek.lu  Follow in the footsteps of the great writer Victor Hugo by visiting the house where he lived for several months in exile in Vianden. Here you will find his writing as well as drawings and paintings. www.victor-hugo.lu

Open and Diverse PHOTOGRAPHY COLLECTIONS IN LUXEMBOURG

Luxembourg,

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your pictures! Fine art photography in Luxembourg begins with Edward Steichen, one of its most famous pioneers. Since then, numerous artists, galleries, cultural institutions and businesses have carried on his legacy. In fact, art lovers decide how art is presented. This is what curators Paul di Felice and Ruud Priem do. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA & MYLÈNE CARRIÈRE Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

Small photograph, significant impact. Artwork doesn’t have to be big to leave a lasting impression. The exhibition at the MNAHA is living proof. 72

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“This photograph is tiny! And yet it shows a family including two important women in Edward Steichen’s life. Actually, many women surrounded and inspired him. That’s why the current exhibit highlights strong women in his life.” Ruud Priem smiles at the black and white portrait format photograph, about the size of a business card. The small print is displayed in a large frame. Here, Steichen’s artistic vision is showcased.

nature, from recurring visual elements like trees to ‘merely’ moods and vibes.

Ruud Priem is chief curator at Luxembourg’s “musée national d’Archéologie, d’Histoire et d’Art”, the Museum of Archeology, History and Art (MNAHA). Originally from the Netherlands, Priem loves fine art photography and greatly admires Edward Steichen.

Steichen always followed his curiosity and strove to evolve. Born in Luxembourg, he moved to the USA at a young age. In the 1960s he returned to his home country and bequeathed the bulk of his photographic legacy to Luxembourg, including the exhibitions The Family of Man (1965) and The Bitter Years (1967). The Family of Man opened in 1974 at the Clervaux Castle in the north of the country

Deep ties to Edward Steichen

The photography world considers Edward Steichen one of the most prominent American photographers who elevated photography into an art form in its own right. “Steichen also painted but when he realized his pictures were better than his paintings, he burnt most of his paintings. That’s bold!” says Ruud Priem.

Originally from the Netherlands, Ruud Priem (left) worked for the research institute of the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles, amongst other places. He also made a name for himself as a curator in various European cities. After working at the renowned Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam and other art institutes in Utrecht, Nijmegen and Bruges, he joined the MNAHA in Luxembourg City in 2020. He is curator and director of the visual arts department.

The cultural institute is home to a permanent collection but for conservation purposes, 20 pictures are on view on a rotating basis and can be seen at the “Nationalmusée um Fëschmaart”. In 2022, a year and a half after starting at MNAHA, Ruud Priem introduced a new series titled “Inspired by Steichen”. This project connects contemporary artists with Steichen’s oeuvre, whose magnum opus “The Family of Man” is considered UNESCO world heritage. Erwin Olaf and Hans Op de Beeck’s artwork was thus exhibited, including photographs and sculptures that bear a deep visible and felt connection to Steichen’s observations on human life and

With its collections comprising more than 30 artists, Mudam is committed to supporting the photographic arts. Their holdings include work by famous practitioners such as Andreas Gursky, Wolfgang Tillmans, Thomas Ruff and Martin Parr.

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Designed by star architect Ieoh Ming Pei, the Museum of Modern Art (Mudam) in Kirchberg beckons with its exceptional modern yet elegant style that beautifully complements the old fortress.

Ruud Priem and Paul di Felice are enjoying the exhibition by Luxembourg artist Romain Urhausen at the “Schlassgoart” gallery in Esch-sur-Alzette. Paul di Felice is also curator here. Romain Urhausen passed away in 2021 at 90 years old. In the 1950s and 1960s, he pioneered photography in Luxembourg and, like many photographers, had to fight for recognition of photography as Fine Art.

and is considered the origin of photographic history in Luxembourg. It’s a permanent exhibition that attracts visitors from all over the world. Since the 1980s, hobby and professional photographers as well as curators have banded together to increase the visibility of the photographic arts in Luxembourg. The Centre national de l’audiovisuel (CNA) was founded in 1989. Its

mission is to collect, preserve and amplify Luxembourg’s audiovisual heritage, including photography. Both Edward Steichen collections, The Family of Man and The Bitter Years were integrated into this institute and became permanent collections in 1994 and 2012 respectively. The Bitter Years collections is currently being restored and therefore closed to the public. The CNA also holds special exhibitions, commissions artwork and offers creative support for national and international photographers.

Aktive: Café-Crème The “Nei Liicht” gallery opened in Dudelange in 1982. At the time, it was the only place dedicated to photography. It hosted exhibits, organised numerous meetups and workshops for all kinds of photographers. Around the same time, Paul di Felice, Pierre Stiwer and Paul Bretz created the CaféCrème club, which published a name-sake magazine from 1984 to 1991 and specialises in photography events. The European Month of Photography (EMOP), created in 2006, plays an integral role here by fostering young and rising artists across Europe. Paul di Felice and the Café-Crème team have also worked with the Casino Art Forum where they held an updated exhibition of The Family of Man in the 1990s titled “The 90s: A Family of Man?” Paul di Felice serves as the president of EMOP. He holds a doctorate in visual arts, is an

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Merl Park in the capital features rotating outdoor photo exhibitions. The “floating” pictures are changed twice a year. Some display the work of Luxembourg’s EMOP artists, others show student creations.

For decades, Arendt & Medernach law firm offices that inspires both visitors and employees alike.

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These pictures are part of the “Hidden Narratives” exhibit that features works by world-famous photographers Susan Meiselas and Isabel Muñoz. 79

independent curator, fine artist and photographer who enjoys combining different practices, from poetry to art installations. At 70, he works all over the country and abroad to promote and celebrate photography. Both he and Ruud Priem share a love of fine art photography and exhibitions that speak to a larger context. Together, they co-curated the “Rethinking Identity” exhibit at the MNAHA as part of the European Month of Photography. Paul di Felice curates Arendt & Medernach’s permanent exhibition and is actively involved in the “Association internationale des Critiques d’art Luxembourg”. He also serves as president of the “European Month of Photography” network and vice-president of the “Lëtz’Arles” Association, a group dedicated to promoting Luxembourgish artists around the world. Additionally, he is co-director of the group “Café-Crème”.

Humans and art “These are existential questions: Who am I? What’s my relationship to the world? What does identity mean? This can include gender but also countries of origin, which is particularly interesting here in Luxembourg with such an international population,” explains Paul di Felice as he and Ruud walk through the exhibit.

The “Rethinking” series shows: We can and must question everything. For example, “Rethinking Nature” and “Rethinking Landscapes” are themes that lead us to ask: How do artists see nature? How do they interpret human awareness of nature and landscapes? It’s a classic art subject that is incredibly relevant today. “Soon we’ll add Rethinking Photography,” says Paul di Felice. “It’s highly relevant because the big question is: How does AI change photography? Does AI enrich photography or should we fight it?” One thing that is clear for both Paul di Felice and Ruud Priem: fine art photography should be viewed in its historical context. In Luxembourg you’ll also find art photography collections beyond museums and galleries. In Kirchberg for example, the business and financial district, the Deutsche Börse Group houses one of the largest photography collections from the second half of the 20th century. It also awards the prestigious “Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize”.

Creative fulfilment The renowned law firm Arendt & Medernach has also been committed to championing artists and contemporary photography for many years. Its offices feature seemingly ubiquitous artworks in an architectural setting that seems tailormade for them. Portraits are displayed in the hallways, landscapes in the conference rooms. Paul di Felice is a key player here as well. He curates exhibitions at the law firm’s

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

How do humans relate to the present? The past? The future? How do we define and reinvent ourselves? Photography can help us explore these questions. 81

Luxembourg headquarters. The offices are also home to a permanent exhibit of national and international photographers and an association that revolves around the distinguished Edward Steichen Award. Additionally, the firm sponsors an artistic development award given to one photographer at the European Month of Photography.

Photo fever forever Luxembourg’s love of photography will not abate any time soon. Edward Steichen has left an indelible mark on the history of photography and Luxembourg seems determined to follow in his footsteps.

“Rethinking Identity” at the “Nationalmusée um Fëschmaart”: the impressive pictures feature women and their stories. Often painful, always beautiful.

Fine art photography tips  The Steichen collections in Luxembourg feature Edward J. Steichen’s (1879-1973) art and legacy, especially his photography. Several collections speak to his remarkable career as a photographer and curator of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York including the exhibitions at the MNAHA in Luxembourg City and at the Centre national de l’audiovisuel (CNA). First port of call for an all-around Steichen experience is “The Family of Man” in Clervaux. www.steichencollections.lu  Interested in open air art? Clervaux is home to an ever-changing outdoor exhibition called “Cité de l’image”. www.clervauximage.lu

 Luxembourg has been playing a key role during the European Month of Photography (EMOP) since 2006. www.europeanmonthofphotography.org  Fine art photography aficionados should start with a visit to the CNA. The Dudelange water tower houses rotating exhibitions and will soon be home again to Steichen’s “The Bitter Years”. www.cna.lu  Visit the “Schlassgoart” gallery in Esch-sur-Alzette with its beautiful architecture to view ArcelorMittal’s (formerly Arbed) fine art photography holdings. Their collections relate to Luxembourg’s steel industry. Architecture by EMBT: Enric Miralles, Benedetta Tagliabue, Arquitectes Associates, Moreno Architectes. www.schlassgoart.lu  The Arendt & Medernach law offices, built in 2017, are open to the public every weekend. They’re easy to find! Just look for the iconic “rambler” sculptures by artist Julian Opie right in front. www.arendt.com/arendt-art

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

URCOMM O .

.LU D

GROUN N O

WW W

룩셈부르크. OUR COMMON GROUND.

BE PART OF IT

Luxembourg is a place where cultures meet. It is one of the most diverse and inclusive countries in the world, with over 180 nationalities and an average of 3.6 different languages spoken per resident. Each one of them makes Luxembourg a common ground.

* Luxembourg

www.ourcommonground.lu

Transforming Experiences SLATE MUSEUM IN HAUT-MARTELANGE

A slate story

Nestled in the rolling hills of quaint Haut-Martelange lies a place that takes visitors back to a time when slate was worked by hand. The rocks are living history and presented in fascinating ways at the new Slate Museum in Haut-Martelange. Text and Photos TOM JUTZLER

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Carefully restored buildings and a panoply of artifacts make up the Slate Museum and offer visitors a glimpse into an often overlooked but fundamental part of Luxembourg’s industrial history from 1790 to 1986. The real treasure however, is not the exhibits but the people who worked here.

With an almost youthful smile, René show us an old slate-splitting tool. He sits down and carefully lifts a raw stone. “I wonder if I can still do it,” he says playfully. The room goes quiet as we all watch him place the rock onto the device and begin. Utter silence. Then, the scratching noise of the

The museum offers insights into the history of slate and the stories of people who dedicated their lives to this difficult but rewarding job. René started working here aged 14 years old. The hours were long and slate-splitting required precision and concentration.

During our visit we were lucky enough to meet René Risch, a former worker who transformed slate rock into functional materials. His eyes sparkle, his posture is marked by hard work. He is the face of an industry that played a vital role in the past century.

Off to work at 14 years old René’s stories bring the museum to life. He tells of the difficult working conditions he and his co-workers faced, the camaraderie and the small pleasures they found amidst the hard work. This isn’t just about the history of slate. It’s about the stories of people who dedicated their lives to this hard but rewarding job. With a hint of melancholy, René leads us to the back corner of the museum where light falls through an old window. “Here,” he says pointing at a bench. “This was my first spot.” He leans against the wall, his fingers gently grazing the familiar surface. “I was a kid, 14 years old, when I started. It was hard. Really hard. The hours were long and slate-splitting requires precision and concentration.”

Visit the museum for a fascinating journey through Luxembourg’s 200-year slate history. You’ll learn about everything from the formation of slate rock over slate mining to finished product and transport. During opening hours, visitors are free to explore the museum grounds.

machine. René’s movements reveal the familiarity and precision of an experienced craftsman. There are many small movements. Krrk, krrk, krrk. And voilà: a perfectly split slab of slate appears on his palm. After our meeting with René, another guide leads visitors into the depths of the slate mine. Equipped with helmets we begin the descent. The air is cooler and soon we hear the rhythmic drops of water forming dark pools on the rugged ground. Small puddles on the stairs, huge lakes at the bottom of this ramified cave. The humidity is intense and makes our skin feel cold and clammy. The history of slate mining is brought to life in impressive ways in these mining tunnels. Light and video installations illuminate the galleries and create vivid shadows dancing on the walls. They highlight the raw beauty of slate and, quite literally, shine a new light on the work that was done here.

Revelations below ground The video installations show miners at work and convey a realistic portrayal of what it was like to work in these tunnels. The sounds of hammering and chiselling meld with the voices of men who worked here long ago. But it’s not just history you get to experience here. It’s nature. The humidity, cold, constant dripping…everything

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Visiting a mine is an adventure for all the senses: a place where history can be seen, felt, smelt and heard.

Throughout the tunnels, compelling video projections bring to life the history of slate mining. Jackets and sturdy shoes are highly recommended. Hard hats are provided!

René is the face of an industry that played a vital role in the past century. Large pictures show workers transforming slate rock into functional materials.

Experience work below ground:  After a long planning phase, the Slate Museum opened in 2023. Many dedicated people and former workers were involved in making it the inspirational place it is today. The effort was rewarded with a “Luxembourg Tourism Award 2023” in three categories. www.ardoise.lu reminds us that this place might have been shaped by humans but continues to be ruled by nature. After a remarkable tour of the mines, visitors return to the surface and, with a little luck, might run into René at the “Bopebistro”, the museum bistro and a comfy spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and local specialties.

Slate friends Here, René regularly meets members of the “Frënn vun der Lee” club, a group of enthusiasts who banded together to preserve this significant cultural heritage. Even though the other members

are younger than René, they share his passion for the craft and history of slate. They listen intently as he shares stories, experiences and knowledge of his time as a worker here. These meetups are more than just friendly get-togethers. They are living proof of how committed this community is to preserving local history. In this heartfelt ambiance, you can sense the joy René and his younger friends feel and the pride they take in their heritage. They invite everyone to join them, to learn and experience the unique culture and history of slate mining in Luxembourg.

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 Curious about work “below ground”? Several locations bring Luxembourg’s industrial past to life. Check out the outdoor museum at Fond-de-Gras, a former mine in the southern part of Luxembourg that can be visited with a bumpy ride on the yellow “Minièresbunn” mine train. Unlike the slate mines of the north, these are red-coloured iron-ore mines that were the foundation of steel production in Luxembourg. Take the mine train to the neighbouring village of Lasauvage for more insights into steel production and the life of mine workers. www.minettpark.lu

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Transforming Experiences LUXEMBOURG CITY’S CASEMATES

Hidden tunnels and talking stones 90

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The casemates are a fascinating series of tunnels running for several kilometres beneath the old town district of Luxembourg City, even extending as far as the Kirchberg plateau. Visitors can explore these tunnels at their own pace, as the Bock Casemates are open to tourists with relatively few restrictions. However, more mysterious are the Pétrusse Casemates and other hidden tunnels of the capital, which can only be visited with a city guide or, for the latter, with the Friends of The Fortress History guided tour. Text BIRGIT PFAUS-RAVIDA Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

Guide Jean knows the Bock and the Pétrusse casemates like the back of his hand. He doesn’t wear his hat for fashion reasons. If the ceiling knocks off his hat, like here in the golden rain tunnel under the Golden Lady, it reminds the young man to keep his head down.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

“She was waiting for him. She knew he’d be back. She loved listening to his voice: so excited, so exciting, so wild and wilful and reliably unreliable.” The person who waits is Melusina, a mermaid and the tragic heroine of the story surrounding the origins of Luxembourg City. Today visitors can see her statue seated beside the Alzette, waiting for Count Siegfried, or perhaps for our city tour guide.

young man with the long hair, glasses and hat says in a dramatic voice. He is standing next to the 47-metre-deep well in the middle of the Bock Casemates. Our guide explains that the casemates, an underground defence system that tunnels under the entire old town and extends as far as the Kirchberg plateau, is one of his favourite places to work. More than just a guide, he is also an actor and

Luxembourg City Underground: Both the Bock and Pétrusse Casemates are open to the general public after undergoing renovations. The Bock Casemates can be visited independently; a guide must be present for those wishing to visit the Pétrusse Casemates.

According to the legend, unbeknown to Count Siegfried, Melusina transformed from mermaid to woman in order to marry him. They lived together and Melusina asked to be left alone one day a week. Every Saturday she locked herself in her private chamber, and Siegfried was not allowed to see her. The legend explains that this is the day when she transformed back into a mermaid. One day the Count peeked through the keyhole, saw Melusina’s fish tail and uttered a scream. Some versions of the legend suggest that she jumped from a rocky ledge into the Alzette river, never to be seen again. Other endings describe Melusina being swallowed by a rock.

The snake and the golden key “This is the well where Melusina is said to live today. It stands on the spot where she was swallowed by the rock. Here she weaves a shroud for the city of Luxembourg. She protects the city, but can also bring it to ruin if she is not redeemed,” the

The tunnels, which constantly go up and down, and the ever-surprising views of the world outside, show the complexity of the casemates. These networks of tunnels played a decisive role in shaping the image of the city.

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Traces of Vauban’s influence can be found everywhere in the buildings and structure of the old town. Today, the old town and the fortress are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. More than that, the entire modern city is constructed in large part on the old fortress walls! 95

wrote and published an Englishlanguage collection of short stories: “The Pleasure of Drowning”, under his pen name Jean Bürlesk. In this collection, “Foundations” offers a reworking of the Melusina tale. “I love all languages!” says the Luxembourg native, whose real name is Jean Beurlet. He knows the Bock and also the Pétrusse casemates like the back of his hand. A historian by training, he has been visiting the underground tunnel systems since he was a schoolboy.

The Bock casemates offer surprising views of the capital, for example this scene of Kirchberg district with its modern high-rises.

He is now an official guide of the Luxembourg City Tourist Office. A lot has changed in the casemates since Jean Beurlet first guided people along its tunnels. Both the Bock and Pétrusse casemates underwent renovations during which they were closed to the public. Today both are open to the general public, who can visit the Bock Casemates on their own, or the Pétrusse Casemates accompanied by a guide.

UNESCO World Heritage It is almost impossible to share everything there is to know about the casemates within the space of a 45-minute guided tour. The entire political history of the country, with all its trials, tribulations and conquests, is deeply connected with these tunnels. The French fortress builder Vauban, for exam-

ple, who successfully attacked and conquered Luxembourg in 1684, perfected and expanded the fortifications, transforming them into an ultra-modern fortress. Traces of his influence can be found everywhere in the buildings and structure of the old town. Today, the old town and the fortress are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. More than that, the entire modern city is constructed in large part on the old fortress walls! A model at the entrance to the Bock casemates shows the network of tunnels around the military defence system. Visitors can follow the tunnels underground, through corridors, over stairs, passing large openings in the rock, windows which, before the destruction of the fortress in 1867, were gaps barely visible from the outside. Today, these balconies, which can be seen from both sides of the rock, help shape the image of the city.

Gun smoke and horse meat “You have to imagine how damp, cold and stuffy it was in here. No hygiene, little oxygen, gunpowder vapour when shots were fired. No one died here from an enemy bullet, but perhaps several died from disease,” says Guide Jean, bringing the past vividly to life. In theory, there was room for 1,200 soldiers and 50 cannons in the Bock Casemates. And at one time people really did live there.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

A sign at the entrance shows the scale of the tunnel system at the Bock Casemates.

An impressive experience in the Pétrusse Casemates is the animated stones, which tell their story through a multi-media installation.

The first casemates were begun in 1644. Over the following years, they were repeatedly expanded and improved. The origin of the word “casemate” is not clear. Possibly it derives from “chasma(ta)”, Greek for “crevice” or “gap in the earth”.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Fort Lambert is part of a 17th century fortification in Luxembourg City Park. As a result of the dismantling of the fortress in 1868-1874, the fort itself was razed. Remnants were rediscovered in 2001 during works on an underground carpark.

“At the age of 82, Austrian commander Field Marshall von Bender was stationed here with his troops over the winter months of 179495, to defend the fortress against the French,” Jean explains. When the food supply situation became critical, some of the casemates’ residents had to eat their own horses! Fortunately, after eight months, the Austrian government allowed them to leave.

In the past, people probably felt very cramped in the casemates, but that was a long time ago. During the dismantling of the fortress, the windows were enlarged, so it was no longer possible to shoot, either with cannons or rifles. Nevertheless, during the two world wars the rooms were used as protective bunkers. Not only that, but in the 20th century, the Kasemattentheater, today located in Bonnevoie, performed in the “Tun Deutsch” gallery. “It used to be a lot darker in the Pétrusse Casemates, too,” Jean Beurlet recalls as, after a short stroll through town, he leads us into a new set of tunnels.

A light and sound experience Thanks to recent renovations, visitors to the Pétrusse Casemates are greeted with a new concept: electric torches sputter like embers, lighting our way along the tunnels, the walls of which glow with words. In one room, even the stones begin to “speak” and, as lit silhouettes, tell of the time when the tunnels were used to grow mushrooms, host beer festivals and store sparkling wine. There are also hidden treasures that cannot be seen during conventional walks through the Bock and Pétrusse Casemates. Since the 1990s, the Friends of The Fortress History association have sought to show these treasures. They organise guided tours, where sometimes visitors find themselves climbing through portals into worlds that you

Where to with whom:  “Rocks come to life”: explore the Pétrusse Casemates like never before. Storytelling accompanies visitors every step of the way. www.luxembourg-city.com  “A rock with a view”: Walking through the casemates of the Bock rock, visitors are treated to incredible views of the city, showing the contrast of old and new. www.luxembourg-city.com  Visitors can explore the tunnels’ secret entrances by booking a guided tour from the Friends of the Fortress History (Frënn vun der Festungsgeschicht). For groups, advance reservation is required. Participants in these tours will have a unique experience of the casemates as the guides bring the history of the tunnels to life. www.ffgl.lu From the casemates, many other paths lead through the UNESCO heritage site.

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would never normally see. For example, around the Villa Vauban, close to the tower of Fort Louvigny, or under “Kinnekswiss” park, named after King Louis XIV. And also, for example, in the city park near Fort Lambert. “Let’s see which of these fits!” says Robert Wagner, president of the historical association, pulling out an enormous bunch of keys. He tries three of the keys until the lock gives with a click. Beyond the metal door is a staircase leading into darkness.

Gateway to hidden treasures Robert explains he likes to show groups the “hidden casemates”. The trained structural engineer, who worked for a long time for the National History Museum on excavations in Dalheim and other places, has written several books about Fort Lambert and the military tunnels beneath it, as well as on other parts of the fortress.

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

We descend the stairs. Two tea lights glow, left over from a tour by Robert’s colleagues who visited earlier today. Another “click” and the low-ceilinged, narrow corridor is filled with light. “In the past, you could have cut off the enemy’s way by blasting,” our guide explains, adding that back then gunpowder was used everywhere in the casemates. We follow Robert until we arrive at an exit and are standing among the stone remains of Fort Lambert. An artwork “The Wave”, visible from the park above, breaks up the fresh green lawn around the fort with even, stone circles. After walking through the dark tunnels, you gain a new perspective. Standing between the walls on the lawn and glancing upwards, we notice the curious looks of passers-by who are perhaps unaware it is possible to walk here.

Eerie rumbling Suddenly, a loud rumbling emanates from the dark corridors. “That’s the sound of cars driving over the ramp in the underground carpark,” explains Robert reassuringly. Because right next door, behind the walls, is Monterey car park. Fortunately, it’s not the walls of the casemates that are collapsing! The curse of Melusina has not yet been fulfilled: the city still stands securely on its foundations. Nevertheless, visitors should keep a good lookout around the fountain in the Bock casemates, just in case. Perhaps one day Melusina will return to be redeemed!

The unique blend of stone, concrete and metal, along with the artwork “The Wave”, make Fort Lambert a fascinating place – not only for the two guides and casemate experts Jean Beurlet and Robert Wagner.

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Daydream LIBRARIES OF LUXEMBOURG

Travel for mind and soul Luxembourg’s dynamic cultural life is full of unexpected hidden treasures. The country’s many libraries are architectural gems, mosaics of culture and history, and veritable oases of calm in the midst of hectic city life. Guardians of stories waiting to be unearthed. Whether urban or rural, libraries are where Luxembourg author Stéphanie Heuertz finds inspiration. Text CAROLE THEISEN Photos PANCAKE! PHOTOGRAPHIE

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The national library in Kirchberg is an example of perfect symmetry and a well of fascinating perspectives. Here, young author Stéphanie Heuertz dreams and does her research.

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Welcome to an unconventional journey through Luxembourg! Globetrotters and culturati alike will enjoy travelling through worlds of knowledge, fantasy and inspiration in Luxembourg’s diverse libraries. Don’t be mistaken, these are not stuffy rooms with shelves full of dusty books. Instead, you’ll enter bibliophilic oases full of life and innovation, blurring the lines between reality and fantasy. They offer a liberating contrast to the trappings of digital life. Libraries aren’t just custodians of knowledge and education, they are lively community centres as well as keepers of history and inspiration for future generations.

Boundless curiosity Stéphanie Heuertz has had a special relationship with libraries ever since her schooldays. Today, her passion for literature and her boundless curiosity have led her on a tour of Luxembourg’s libraries: from the stately national library, and the futuristic “Luxembourg Learning Centre” in Belval to hidden book nooks in Wiltz and rural Schwebsingen. Careful: once the magic takes hold, there’s no going back!

From the outside, you cannot begin to imagine the splendour of the lofty reading room and, as we enter, it hits Stéphanie with full force. Awe-inspiring architecture, a warm ambiance and soft lighting greet her. A place full of surprises. Countless nooks and crannies woo visitors into lingering and browsing.

Reading nooks “Libraries are just perfect if you want to be among people but still have your peace,” says Stéphanie. She recounts how much she enjoyed seeking refuge in the national library - at the time still located near the cathedral - and many other libraries in Luxembourg and abroad to study for exams. Today, as chance would have it, she runs into her own students preparing for exams. Stéphanie teaches German at

“Lycée technique pour professions éducatives et sociales”, a job she finds “profoundly fulfilling”, she says. In 2022, Stéphanie Heuertz’s children’s book “De Félix, d’Mimi an d’Lëtzebuerger Traditiounen” won young readers’ hearts. In a captivating journey through the calendar year, the book illustrates Luxembourgish traditions, customs and history in an age-appropriate way. An exciting adventure that brings to life Luxembourg’s cultural diversity. The two protagonists learn about 12 Luxembourgish

The national library is a place of tranquility perfectly integrated into bustling city life. You can take the free tram right to the front door.

Stéphanie’s literary exploration begins in the grand national library located on the Kirchberg-Plateau of the city. It is an accessible fount of knowledge - from rare manuscripts to contemporary comics, historical documents to modern interactive exhibits.

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traditions, including the story of John the Blind and how he was involved with the “Schueberfouer”, why Luxembourg celebrates its national holiday in June and where the mysterious “Kleeschen” comes from. “Originally it was just a crazy idea I had,” says Stéphanie. She didn’t plan to write a book. She just

wanted to write down some of her ideas without a specific goal in mind. But she soon caught the eye of Schortgen publishing house and her “crazy idea” became an exciting reality. A year later, the sequel “De Félix an d’Mimi wëlle bleiwe wat si sinn”, in which the characters learn even more about their homeland, found its way

Let the university library in Esch-Belval guide you through your research. Enjoy the striking architecture and unique materials.

into bookstores. You’ll find it in the national library under “Luxemburgensia”. Stroll through the library to see how modern and creative details lend this place its charm. The analog display boards, made up of many different, individual letters, are particularly eye-catching. Fun fact: at some point the letters had to be glued onto the board because people kept stealing them.

On the edge of tradition and modernity Stéphanie continues her journey through Luxembourg’s fascinating libraries with a visit to the Luxembourg Learning Centre (LLC), the library of Luxembourg’s prestigious university in Esch-sur-Alzette. Located amidst the soaring former steel furnaces, it’s not just a haven of knowledge for students but also a creative, architectural masterpiece. The interplay of glass, steel and strikingly colourful design elements will beguile anyone, architecture aficionado or otherwise. Bright colours, open floor plans and natural light pouring through the large windows give this place a delightful shine. The glass elements on the facade were inspired by ash deposits on the windows of the former furnace, paying tribute to the vital role of the steel industry in Luxembourg’s history. Luxembourg architects Valentiny HVP wanted to inte-

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LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Esch-Belval gracefully blends past and future, industry and academics. Stéphanie visits the Luxembourg Learning Centre library located amidst the old furnaces which can also be toured.

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At the “Bicherthéik” in Schwebsingen, situated in a historical building dating from 1905, bookworms of all ages can read to their heart’s content: from mysteries and novels to children’s picture books and nonfiction, including a comprehensive collection of “Luxemburgensia”. 108

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

grate the defining steel structures of the old industrial hall or “Möllerei” into the design to set off the past against the future of this region. Head into the library and you’ll immediately notice the giant industrial elevator, a vestige of the steel industry, merged with the modern building. “The LLC is like a swanky version of the national library,” says Stéphanie Heuertz. “It encapsulates the zeitgeist which makes it different from other libraries.”

to cosy up with a good book and enjoy the scenery. The library is furnished with relics of the past hundred years: from an ancient typewriter and the bright red 1980s telephone to the blackboard

The rural library in Schwebsingen is surrounded by the fertile Moselle landscape. Why not take a gander at the many books about winemaking found here?

Warm and cosy Our next stop is the Welubi library in Wiltz, nestled between forests, plateaus and the Sûre river in the beautiful landscapes of the north. It provides a delightful contrast to the stately libraries of the capital city and Esch-sur-Alzette. The homely charm and community spirit envelop you as soon as you walk in the door. At the back, you’ll find a large table where visitors can sit, learn, read and play board games together. Stéphanie’s last stop for today takes her to the “Bicherthéik”, a reader’s paradise in Schwebsingen near Schengen and the Moselle. Known for its historical flair, you’ll notice the creaking floorboards, the soft whisper of pages being turned and the unmistakable scent of old paper creating a cosy ambiance.

A magical retreat The window offers an amazing view of the gorgeous vineyards which are emblematic of this region. It is the perfect place

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dating back to when this building was a school. An entire floor is dedicated to children so they can nestle up and immerse themselves in stories. The friendly librarians also offer a cup of coffee for adults, or piece of chocolate for the kids. Stéphanie’s children, who are accompanying her on today’s tour, dive into the bowl of sweets as soon as they walk in. After this pick-me-up, curiosity gets the better of them and the

children begin browsing through the shelves. The colourful book spines catch their eye, pulling them into story worlds for at least half an hour. Before leaving, each child is allowed to choose a book to take on their upcoming holiday. Let Luxembourg’s libraries enchant you. The gates to stories and the knowledge of our world are wide open. Simply walk in and let the libraries work their magic.

Book tips:  The national library on Kirchberg-Plateau, located near the tram line, is a place of both splendour and retreat. www.bnl.lu  Visit the Luxembourg Learning Centre in Esch-Belval amidst the former industrial furnaces. www.uni.lu/llc-de  Immerse yourself in homely charm and community spirit at the Welubi library in Wiltz. www.welubi.lu  The magical “Bicherthéik” awaits in beautiful Schwebsingen, near the Moselle river. www.schengen.lu/bichertheik  You’ll find many other libraries and literary festivals around the country. For more information, visit the National Centre for Literature (“Centre national de littérature”) in Mersch. www.cnl.public.lu

The Welubi library in Wiltz is easily accessible by train. Perfect for commuters, travellers and anyone looking for a place of exchange and creativity. Children’s laughter permeates the library, filling it with energy.

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LUXEMBOURG CITY

DIVE INTO THE DEPTHS OF THE CITY Tickets luxembourg-city.com Luxembourg City Tourist Office - Place Guillaume II 111

Open and Diverse CARTE BLANCHE

A night at the museum! A dream come true for children and adults alike. Stroll by the stuffed animals, frozen in the twilight. Stare at the darkness of the night sky behind glass. Carve out an evening to gaze intensely at a painting. These experiences and more await visitors to Museum Night, taking place once a year in October in Luxembourg City.

Villa Vauban – Musée d’Art de la Ville de Luxembourg

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LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

For this issue of Luci, we gave Luxembourg photographer Mike Zenari the freedom to create his own expressive photo series, showcasing his impressions of Museum Night.

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MUDAM – Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean

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Musée Dräi Eechelen

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Casino Luxembourg – Forum d‘art contemporain

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MUDAM – Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean

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A walk throughii 400 years of historyii

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Luci ISSUE 6

Editor-in-chief Birgit Pfaus-Ravida

Luci

Print Imprimerie Centrale

Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg ISSUE 6 — ENGLISH

Creative Direction & Editorial Design Guido Kröger, ampersand.studio Fairytale experiences Follow in the footsteps of the famous giant

Photo collections A country in photos

Cycling through the country From west to east along the Sûre river

Publisher Luxembourg for Tourism BP 1001, L-1010 Luxemburg Tel. +352 42 82 82 1 info@visitluxembourg.com VisitLuxembourg visit_luxembourg www.visitluxembourg.com

© LFT 2024 All rights reserved. Any entire or partial use, replication, reproduction, publication, transmission or distribution in any form, is not permitted without previous written approval by LFT. ISSN 2716-7291

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Texts Tom Jutzler Sieglinde Marx Birgit Pfaus-Ravida Carole Theisen Photos Pancake! Photographie (cover) Tom Jutzler André Schösser Alfonso Salgueiro Mike Zenari Other photos with friendly approval of the partners Translations & Corrections Cécile Balavoine Jess Bauldry Rachel Ezard Clément Guélé Sieglinde Marx Peggy Nickel Sarah Pitt Kerstin Philippi Birgit Pfaus-Ravida Dr. Sebastian Reddeker Hélène Rybol why vanilla? Zenter fir d’Lëtzebuerger Sprooch

LUCI INSPIRING TRAVEL STORIES FROM LUXEMBOURG

Edition Total editions: 40,000 English edition: 12,000 Languages English, French, German, Luxembourgish Advertising brain&more brain@brain.lu

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