Luci Special - GrandTour - English by Luxembourg for Tourism

Luci Special

Inspiring road trips through Luxembourg ISSUE 2021 – ENGLISH

Not only for classic cars On the road among giant rocks

Grand Tour of Luxembourg Places for connoisseurs and culture enthusiasts

Traditional and modern The diversity of the regions and the capital

Editorial Moien and welcome to Luxembourg! The freedom of being on the open road: time stretches before you, windows open, wind in your hair as you cruise along gently winding roads - what more do you need for an unforgettable road trip? In this “Grand Tour” Luci Special, we take you on a journey through Luxembourg. We make several stops along the impressive routes, marvel at the views, get to know people, and sample regional specialities. Reporting on the spot, to deliver a completely authentic experience. You’ll accompany enthusiastic classic car drivers through Luxembourg’s cosmopolitan capital and the country’s varied and charming regions. The Grand Duchy is a country of short distances, so the next attraction is only ever a few kilometres away. The best conditions for a visit with lasting impressions – not only for classic car fans. We hope that we can whet your appetite for your very own “Grand Tour”, and look forward to you visiting soon.

Romain Weber President Luxembourg for Tourism

Dr. Sebastian Reddeker CEO Luxembourg for Tourism

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Content 6-21

Yves Fiat 500 — 1967 MULLERTHAL

Flitting between giant rocks The impressive steep face of the giant “Perekop” rock makes the “Smiling Machine” look even smaller than it already is. We are on a trip in the Mullerthal region – right in the heart of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland.

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Simone Volvo PV544 — 1962 GUTTLAND

Betting on red The Guttland region is characterised by its dense forests and many meadows, orchards and fields. A serene cultural landscape, ideal for a classic car road trip.

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Thierry Aston Martin DB 2/4 — 1956 MOSELLE

Riviera Rally In the south-eastern region at the border triangle, the Moselle River winds its way through the vineyards. The ancient cultural landscape is a place for connoisseurs and culture lovers, where tradition and modernity merge harmoniously.

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Claude “Kinch” Cadillac Sedan DeVille — 1956 MINETT

Greased Lightning The last pit has been closed, the last opencast mine shut down and the last blast furnace extinguished. The transformation is in full swing. On the road for an impressive tour in the southern Minett region, also known as the Land of the Red Rocks.

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Frazer VW Bulli T2 Westfalia — 1976 ÉISLEK

The Orange Beast Watch out Éislek, here we come! Cruising through the Luxembourg Ardennes in a legendary Bulli, like “The Orange Beast” you can live your van life to the full. Water, forests, deep valleys and airy plateaus speckled with picturesque towns, castles and villages. In the wild north of the Grand Duchy, our vehicle provides a cheerfully colourful contrast.

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Pascal Morgan 4/4 — 2018 CENTRE

Good Morgan! Travelling by car in Luxembourg City is a real rollercoaster ride. Meandering roads and bridges characterise Pascal’s winding road trip through the city in his Morgan. Upper and lower city: sharply separated by the canyon-like valley of the Alzette and the Petrusse. Beyond the city centre, the surprisingly hilly “heartland” awaits.

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Masthead

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Mullerthal ·

Yves ·

Fiat 500 — 1967

Flitting between giant rocks The impressive steep face of the giant “Perekop” rock makes the “Smiling Machine” look even smaller than it already is. We are on a trip in the Mullerthal region — right in the heart of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland.

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Reisdorf Eppeldorf Beaufort Stegen Berdorf

Echternach

Nommern Waldbillig Osweiler

Larochette

Mompach

Fischbach Lellig Junglinster Bourglinster

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The Mullerthal – or “Mëllerdall” in Luxembourgish – is commonly known as Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland because of its hilly landscape. Not only are the roads for our classic car in perfect, pothole-free, condition, but the hiking trails are also well maintained and perfectly signposted.

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With a broad grin, Yves gets out of the huge school bus that he nonchalantly parks at the side of the road. We meet during his lunch break to discuss a few questions about our tour of the Mullerthal region. “Voilà. My workplace! I use this behemoth to chauffeur children all over Luxembourg City.” In private, he prefers to drive his 1967 Fiat 500, which – in comparison – is so tiny that the steering wheel of the school bus probably couldn’t fit inside it. “Poli – that’s the name of the little Fiat doesn’t actually belong to me, but I've been dreaming of a car like this since I was 14. It was actually my father who bought this 500, and I’ve just borrowed it. That was about 20 months ago!” Yves laughs. His good mood is infectious, and coupled with his quirky little hatchback, the trip should be as relaxed as a short holiday to the south.

1,300 years of history We set off a few days later. First stop: Echternach. “For example, if you come via Mompach and drive down the winding roads to Echternach, it’s a pure holiday feeling. As I drive downhill, the lower the altitude gets, the more relaxed I feel. And then the entrance to Echternach appears: the historic houses and winding alleys. Compared to Luxembourg’s capital, this is another world altogether,” says Yves, brimming with enthusiasm. And indeed, when we cruise into the market square of Luxembourg’s oldest city for our photo shoot, we immediately sense the laid-back lightness.

Yves is right to call his classic car a “smiling machine”! The little vehicle really does put a smile on the faces of passers-by. Some wave while others want to take a photo. Dolce Vita in the Grand Duchy.

At the giant rocks From Echternach we follow the road to Berdorf. The impressive steep face of the giant “Perekop” rock makes the Fiat seem even smaller than it already is. We are bang in the middle of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland. Right at the centre of the warm and humid microclimate of the lush green ravine forest. Here, the water has eroded deep crevices into the soft Luxembourg sandstone and – over

thousands of years of work – created a wild and enchanted “jungle landscape”. Every now and then, cold winds whistle far above the gorges. Below, there’s almost no wind, and it’s always somewhat warmer than on the plateau. For this reason, more than 30 different species of moss, rare ferns, numerous mushrooms and countless lichens thrive here. Some of them cover the imposing beech trunks right up to the treetops. We park the car briefly at the “Perekop” in the parking bay and walk a few steps. We squeeze through narrow passages, climb crooked stairs and explore pitch-black caves. By the way, everything is perfectly signposted for hikers. Not only are the roads for our classic car in perfect,

Near the so-called “Priedegtstull” (the Pulpit), the path leads through a special rock labyrinth with very deep passageways. Those who have said a prayer on the Pulpit are now well prepared: in the surrounding area you will find the “Chamber of the Dead” and “Hell”!

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Echternach, capital of the Mullerthal region and also the oldest town in Luxembourg, has preserved its medieval ambience and takes visitors back to times gone by.

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Winding alleys and beautiful town houses await you in Echternach. The Hopping Procession is internationally renowned and has been part of the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010.

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The Mullerthal Trail leads the experienced hiker through a magnificent landscape of hills and rocks. The most prominent rocks have been given bizarre names in the vernacular, such as “Piteschkummer”, “Geierslee” or “Huel Lee”, to name but a few. The Mullerthal region also has an extensive network of walking trails that are accessible to everyone and offer just as many beautiful views.

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Enveloped by the scent of the forest. Here, in the ever-moist ravine forest of Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland, the fresh aroma of moss, mushrooms and trees lingers in our nostrils. Rivulets and small streams ripple past us.

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pothole-free, condition, but the hiking trails are also excellently maintained. Management of the trail has earned the Mullerthal Trail the label “Leading Quality Trails – Best of Europe”.

In the valley of the mills No visit to the Mullerthal region is complete without a visit to Mullerthal! The village that gave the region its name is the starting point for many hiking tours and is home to the Heringer Millen Tourist Centre. At the “Best of Hiking” test centre you can get free outdoor equipment such as hiking boots, baby carriers, jackets or hiking poles to rent. Really handy if you’ve

forgotten something. We’ve already done our hike, so instead we visit the old mill and the historic grinder.

Along the Black Ernz It’s almost an insider tip: located in the immediate vicinity of the Heringer Millen, you can find the brasserie bearing the same name. Its chef, Lars Fiebig, learnt his trade at the Paul Bocuse Institute. And here – far from the hustle and bustle of the capital city – hidden in a small clearing in the woods, he has the opportunity to surprise his guests with culinary delights. After a good meal, we leave the small Fiat and continue on foot via the hiking trail

In addition to free outdoor equipment, the Heringer Millen Tourist Centre also offers picnic baskets filled to the brim with regional specialities. Of course, we didn’t miss the opportunity to try out this special offer and found it to be a real treat – it tastes so good, you’ll definitely eat it all up.

along the “Schiessentümpel” waterfall to the “Kallektuffquell” spring. We reach this enchanted place via a wooden footbridge along the Black Ernz river: crystal-clear, calcareous water flows over a rocky outcrop into a pool below. Depending on the weather and the position of the sun, the rocks and water shimmer in brilliant colours, from turquoise, to rusty red, to bright green. Water drips, trickles and splashes everywhere. If fairies were to suddenly fly out through the curtain of water, one would not be surprised.

Of castles and palaces Since we – somewhat bemused by the seemingly magical steam of the “Kallektuffquell” spring – have already arrived in Middle Earth in terms of our current state of mind, it is fitting that the next stop on our little road trip is the Beaufort Castle complex. For our photo shoot, Poli is exceptionally allowed to pose in the courtyard. We explore the castle on foot. In the dungeon, the massive iron chains remind us of the original purpose of this gloomy hole. What an endearing era the Middle Ages must have been! Fortunately, the castle’s cellars are used for other purposes today: almost 5,000 litres of blackcurrant liqueur are produced here every year, made from regionally cultivated berries. Now we find it a bit of a shame that we are travelling by car: our tasting is limited to a single sip. Cheers to you, brave knights!

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With grace and elegance, little Poli drives through the courtyard entrance of Beaufort Castle, as though made for it! It couldn’t be much bigger, after all, as the Renaissance gate was made to accommodate carriages in the 17th century. The castle’s remarkable interior bears witness to the magic of the past.

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You can reach the “Kallektuffquell” via a 600-metre-long wooden footbridge. Crystal-clear, calcareous water flows over a rocky outcrop into a pool below. Depending on the weather and the position of the sun, the rocks and water shimmer in brilliant colours, from turquoise, to rusty red, to bright green.

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The Mullerthal is first and foremost a unique biotope with a scattering of rocks. The landscape of sandstone rocks owes its peculiar appearance to thousands of years of erosion. 17 4_GRAND TOUR_Müllerthal_EN.indd 17

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The impressive medieval castle in Beaufort was built between 1050 and 1650. After major repair works, the imposing ruins were opened to the public as early as 1932 and are now considered a historical monument.

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The stairs lead to the former dungeon of Beaufort Castle. The castle’s adjacent cellar vaults are now used for completely different purposes: around 5,000 litres of blackcurrant liqueur are produced here every year, made from regionally cultivated berries.

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Regional is the first choice

Culinary delights along the way

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Electrifying!

The Tudor Museum Anyone whose car has ever had a broken alternator knows that without electri city, little else works. In Rosport, you can look over Henri Tudor’s shoulder, so to speak. For the engineer and pioneer in the development of electricity storage, electricity was a real passion. The Tudor Museum  is a mixture of a science centre and traditional museum. Experimentation is encouraged. www.musee-tudor.lu

When you get peckish: cheese, honey, liqueurs and more can be found at almost

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Behind every rock or tree in the Mullerthal region lies a magnificent view. Hikers on the Mullerthal Trail know this. But even on four wheels you can always stop for a moment, at the giant “Perekop”  rock, for example. Next vantage point: travelling from Berdorf in the direction of Echternach at the end of the village turn left onto the narrow dirt road towards the forest. From the parking area, walk 300 m to the amphitheatre and the Hohllay cave , where you can see how millstones were carved out of the rocks. From the “Priedegtstull”  rock formation, you have a view over gorges and rocks. You also get a great view from the Aquatower water tower  in Berdorf. www.mullerthal.lu

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Over hill and dale

Good views

every kilometre along the way in the Mullerthal region. The Heringer Millen Tourist Centre  not only offers hiking equipment for rent, but also regional and local specialities, either in a picnic basket or as individual items. In such picnic baskets, you can also fit a bottle of sparkling cider. If you’re interested in the production of traditional cider, you should visit the Ramborn Cider Haff . It becomes fruity and highly concentrated in the “Tudorsgeeschter” liqueur, giving you a good drop of alcohol to enjoy. But during a road trip, best to try as a syrup or juice. www.mellerdaller-produzenten.lu

Mullerthal

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He who writes, stays

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It’s worth leaving the car behind to explore the city of Echternach on foot. But around the impressive abbey, there is one more special feature to discover for those interested in culture: the scriptorium of the Echternach writing school. During the Middle Ages, artistic manuscripts went out into the world from here. The guided tour, called Abbey Top Secret & Scriptorium , shows the fascinating work of the Benedictine monks. Take a look around rooms that are otherwise not open to the public. www.museedelabbaye.lu

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Soak up the past

The castles of Larochette

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The art of writing in Echternach

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The castles of Larochette  characterise the image of the picturesque village of Larochette or Fels (Fiels in Luxembourgish). They tower above the valley. The ruins of the castle and the restored castle can be visited. Leave the car behind, wander through the ruins and feel the past all around you. www.visitlarochette.lu

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Guttland ·

Simone ·

Volvo PV544 — 1962

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Betting on red The Guttland region is characterised by its dense forests and many meadows, orchards and fields. A serene cultural landscape, ideal for a classic car road trip. Wahl Grosbous

Vichten

Préizerdaul

Bissen Redange-sur-Attert Boevange-sur-Attert Mersch Beckerich

Ansembourg

Eischen

Steinfort

Koerich

Kehlen

Kahler Mamer

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Situated right on the capital’s doorstep, the Guttland region – geographically located in the centre west of the country – offers an enchanting backdrop of imposing castles and mysterious fortresses, charming villages and captivating natural landscapes.

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“Oh my God, it’s beautiful!”, Simone exclaims. Simone, who is driving a classic car for the first time in her life today, is referring to the 1962 Humpback Volvo. It’s a good friend’s collector’s item, and is the protagonist today. In its design and elegance, it’s really made for a lady. Even if she – the lady – will be surprised to discover during the course of the day that she has aching muscles, which such a vehicle without power steering gives an inexperienced classic car driver. The Volvo: nail varnish red, white wall tyres, curved chassis with perfect lines. Big bright eyes, elegant appearance and a high- spirited, engaging nature. This applies to both the classic car and its current driver. Together with Simone, we not only want to experience the feeling of travelling in a classic car, but also explore the Guttland region. This is an excellent place for classic car novices: in Guttland, everything seems gentler. The curves are longer and the hills stretch further than elsewhere in the Grand Duchy.

As a counterpoint to the ancient walls of the castles and palaces of old, we visit Kahler, far to the west, near the Belgian border. The village is decorated all over with graffiti. A larger-than-life monkey brass band is emblazoned on a house wall. Diagonally opposite, there’s an oversized frog on a bicycle. Next to it, a racing snail dashes across a front door. No wall remains bare in Kahler. The “guilty party” responsible for this village-cum-gallery is Alain Welter, an artist and son of the village, who was able to persuade his fellow villagers to use the walls in his home village as a canvas as part of his bachelor thesis.

We’re impressed, but still want to go further. Simone is drawn to the alpacas at the Freylinger-Klein farm in Hovelange.

A Grand Duchy for an alpaca Dany and Jean-Marc keep a few of these fascinating animals on their educational farm and offer guided walks with them. At the beginning, the alpaca farmers still witnessed lots of head-shaking in the village. It was a somewhat unusual sight to see alpacas grazing in the middle of the

The origins of the historic gardens of Ansembourg Castle date back to the 17th century. So as not to confuse the “new castle” with the older castle complex of Ansembourg situated on the nearby hill, the castle is often referred to as the Nouveau Château. The castle complex and château belong to the Valley of the Seven Castles.

We drive alongside fields that are curved as though painted by an impressionist, time and again punctuated by small woods. The trees along the roads are decorated with painted white bands. Even though this is supposed to be a safety measure, we imagine that the trees in the Valley of the Seven Castles have been painted that way especially for us – as a form of welcome. It reinforces the fairy tale-like, enchanted atmosphere on this section of the route.

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Nowhere else will visitors find such a high density of medieval buildings as in the Guttland region. Fairy-tale castles to dream about and plenty of beautiful places to stop at and unwind. Just follow the signs to the “Vallée des 7 Châteaux”. 26

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Everything forms a guard of honour in front of Ansembourg Castle: the stone guardian lions at the gate, the apple trees all in a row, the neatly trimmed boxwood hedges forming the maze. It’s such a delight to wander through here! A ride in a classic car through the enchanting Valley of the Seven Castles in Guttland is a double journey back in time.

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The Freylinger-Klein educational farm in Hovelange offers guided walks with alpacas: Charly Brown, Danny, Donatello, Mister D, Wonder and Eldorado allow visitors to stroke, cuddle and lead them on a leash.

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Alpacas, which belong to the camel family, are somewhat smaller than their relatives, the llamas, and reach only up to shoulder-height of most adults. In South America, they are bred mainly for their wool, while in Europe, they are an integral part of animal- assisted therapy because of their gentle nature and calming temperament. 29 5_GRAND TOUR_Guttland_EN.indd 29

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village, but in the meantime the animals have become part of the landscape. When we finally arrive, we are first led to see the Galloways, which also belong to the farm. They graze on a huge pasture and come trotting over curiously when they notice us. “It’s unbe lievable how trusting these giant animals are!” Simone says excitedly. And to crown this dream of every city dweller stressed out by civilisation, after the cattle we finally get to see the alpacas. Like organ pipes, the six mini camels stand in line and look at us cheekily. The alpacas seem to have held their heads in a tumble dryer – they are even more tousled and cuddlier than the rest of their already fluffy bodies. Now they look at us with their huge wide eyes, each head like an exploded

woollen popcorn. That was it for Simone: love at first sight! It is only with a very, very heavy heart that we say goodbye to the animals.

Guttland does good On the way to Rindschleiden, or Randschelt in Luxembourgish, Simone sums up the day: “Even though I’ll probably have insanely sore arm muscles tomorrow from driving without power steering, I have to say: with such a grand vehicle, you proceed nevertheless more heedfully, drive more slowly and more consciously than usual, and take in more of the landscape! After all the hustle and bustle at work, it’s good to slow down and

The bistro in Rindschleiden is worth a visit not only for its interior: fantastic dishes are prepared here from regional ingredients. A small bistro with great cuisine!

travel around a slow tourism area like Guttland. You really shift down a gear – pun intended!” She parks in front of the small bistro, quite naturally, as if she’s been driving the car for ages. “I love alpacas!” Even before anyone can say “Moien!”, this admission obviously had to come out! Simone buoyantly takes a seat at the tiny bar. She reveals her affection for alpacas to Romaine Zieser, the owner of the small Rindschleiden bistro where we end our Guttland tour. Surrounded by countless aphorisms, song lyrics, witty words and other snippets of text, we sit in the bistro’s small room, decorated in red, white and black, and can’t stop looking around and taking it all in. In addition to the sayings Romaine has written in black felt-tip pen on the doors, shelves and walls, the former pigsty is overflowing with art parapher nalia and cinema memorabilia. The hodgepodge makes it incredibly cosy, and we can’t help looking at it all and smiling. The attentive visitor quickly notices that her own gender generally comes off a bit better than the men’s in the sayings on the walls. In combination with the larger than life Romaine behind the counter, this is probably the reason why ladies’ circles like to meet here so much. An incredibly stimulating atmosphere pervades the place, and the owner of it all is an equally stimulating conversationalist. It’s no wonder that people want to shout out their love here. Even if it’s the love of alpacas.

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Tucked away in a valley, far from traffic and hustle and bustle, lies Rindschleiden – with only one inhabitant, it’s the smallest village in Luxembourg. A walk along the meditation path helps even more to deepen your relaxation, and the twelve stations invite you to read, reflect and linger a while.

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“Make Koler Kooler” was actually only supposed to be Alain Welter’s bachelor’s thesis – but it’s now taking on new dimensions. No sooner was one farmhouse façade sprayed than the next person wanted theirs painted. Just like the ravens, which can also be found in the village’s coat of arms. By the way, “Koler” in Luxembourgish, or “Kahler” in German, means bare.

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No wall remains bare in Kahler. Alain Welter is the “guilty party” responsible for this village-cumgallery, an artist and son of the village, who was able to persuade his fellow villagers to use the walls in his home village as a canvas.

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With their shaggy coats, Galloway cattle can (theoretically) be kept outdoors all year round. Incidentally, they originally come from the region of Galloway in south-west Scotland. These exotic creatures are most welcome in Guttland.

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“Hey!” – Simone lets out a surprised cry when one of the animals nudges her. Apparently, the cattle are used to people and enjoy getting petted – and a crust of bread.

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Guttland Daydream

Guttland – land of daydreams. The Seven Castles , which form a row along the drive through the valley of the same name, contribute a great deal to this mood as a picturesque backdrop. The castles tour includes the estates in Mersch, Schoenfels, Ansembourg Castles and the complexes in Koerich, Hollenfels and Septfontaines. The nearby Useldange Castle  is also worth a stop. In the evening, the ruins are atmospherically illuminated. www.visitguttland.lu

Dreaming from castle to castle

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Just like Napoleon once upon a time

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The Napoléonsgaard offers a great view over the countryside. From Koetschette, follow the road east for 5 km and you’re on the hill. At 554 metres, it is the third highest elevation in Luxembourg. Napoleon is said to have looked down over the area from here. Luxembourg’s smallest village, Rindschleiden  ,

Beautiful views

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is around the corner. On the way to Grevels, in good weather, a panorama opens up to the capital’s Kirchberg plateau. www.visitguttland.lu

Mill tradition

Not at all dusty 

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Clang-clang! Once upon a time, the mills rattled away beside the rushing brook. Luxembourg is also a country of mills. They are spread all over the Grand Duchy along the rivers. You can learn everything about this traditional agricultural heritage at the “Beckericher Millen”  mill. A living museum! The machines are used and shown. Visitors can also lend a hand. Besides readings there are concerts, art exhibitions and markets. And of course, culinary delights. Take a closer look and get your nose dusted with flour. www.dmillen.lu

Stretch your legs in an idyllic setting

In the footsteps of the Hun King 

warriors in the 5th century – so why shouldn’t car enthusiasts park their vehicles here and treat themselves to a little break in the forest with a picnic and drinks? The “Hunnebour”  is an enchanted pond in a small wood. Myths and legends are attached to this place. You may be able to hear Attila’s horses neighing. To the sparkling end

Distilling and brewing Don’t drink and drive! The following two destinations are more suitable for the end of a day, for example after a detour to the urban art village of Kahler. In Kehlen, not only does the distillery museum  await visitors, you can also meet Luxembourg’s first female distiller at Distillerie Adam . In Bascharage you can visit the Bofferding national brewery with its adjoining large museum and sample various traditional and modern beers. The Béierhaascht also offers regional specialities from Luxembourg. Perfect souvenirs! www.distillerie-adam.lu

This is where Attila the Hun is said to have watered his horses with his

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Moselle ·

Thierry ·

Aston Martin DB 2/4 — 1956

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Mertert

Grevenmacher

Wormeldange Lenningen

Stadtbredimus Waldbredimus Dalheim

Remich

Schengen

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“D’Musel”, as the inhabitants affectionately call the Moselle Valley, forms the natural border between Luxembourg and Germany along a 39-kilometre stretch. The region is not only known as a wine-growing area, but also attracts hikers and even water sports lovers.

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“Don't dive straight in,” is how I greet Thierry in Mondorf. We start our Moselle Grand Tour – rather atypically – out of sight of the vineyards and the river. We meet at the Aviation Museum under the “Klemm”. The restored 1930s monoplane is hard to miss. Bright red and polished to a high sheen, the aircraft hangs under the ceiling of the small museum. On the way through the green area of the thermal spa to the car park where the classic car is waiting, Thierry recounts the unlikely story of his vehicle. He’s the owner of a 1956 Aston Martin DB 2/4 in metallic light green.

When he was 14, they put together a jeep left behind by the Allies. From then on, Thierry has helped with all kinds of repairs, and even though he didn’t make a profession of it, he’s not afraid to get his hands dirty. At some point, he came across an advert for an Aston Martin in the French magazine “La vie de l’auto”. It wasn’t really roadworthy. “All the better – that was the challenge I was looking for!” We arrive at the car park. It’s hard to believe that this vehicle, which looks new to our eyes, was once an old rust bucket. The chrome glistens. The wheel spokes are in excellent condition. The leather is perfectly stretched.

A classic in its own right How many hours of work must have gone into it? What we don’t understand is how you can seriously go out on the road with such a valuable machine. “Oh, come on,” Thierry replies, “What's the point of having such a car if I can’t drive it?” We glide off in the direction of the Moselle. The Aston Martin drives ahead, we follow behind: Now please don’t bump into us under any circumstances. Our insurance will kick us out immediately! But it’s beautiful. From behind too. A real classic.

Seasoned grease monkeys “Almost everything on a car like this is manual work,” enthuses Thierry, who works in the financial sector. “If I want to repair or improve something, I either have to do it myself or find a specialist craftsman who is able to repair, for example, an instrument part. You can’t really buy any parts. But that’s precisely what makes it so appealing! To preserve the amazing craftsmanship and recreate the various work stages. The satisfaction when the restora tion is a success is simply beautiful!”

The European Museum in Schengen is clad in plaster mixed with Moselle sand. The colour of the building blends harmoniously with the old winegrowers’ farms in the village. The sandstone used in these buildings has the same colour as the museum. Just in front, Thierry double checks the engine compartment on his Aston Martin.

This type of skill is of course not something you’re born with. At least not for us mere mortals. Thierry’s father had a petrol station with an adjoining workshop, and so the son learned many craftsman’s tricks from his father at an early age.

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From this high vantage point, you have to look carefully because the Biodiversum and landscape merge into one another. The nature centre is the work of the internationally renowned architect François Valentiny. He set up the Valentiny Foundation in his home town of Remerschen. With the help of models, pictures and drawings, visitors can see how the architect works and from where he draws his inspiration.

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Resembling an upturned wooden barge, the Biodiversum (the information centre of the “Haff Réimech” nature reserve), is situated on a peninsula on the lake among the reeds. The history as well as land and water flora and fauna are presented in futuristically designed rooms.

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Known far beyond its borders, the spa town of Mondorf-les-Bains is a successful mix of a wellness oasis, health centre and cultural venue. With its park of over 40 hectares, the spa is a delight for nature lovers. The old thermal baths, the orangery and the “Waasserhaus” cinema are just some of the discoveries you can make on a walk through the park. 44

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In the mid-19th century while drilling for rock salt, healing water suddenly bubbled up from the ground. This is how the spa town of Mondorf-les-Bains started to become a meeting place for bathers seeking relaxation. On the walk around the town, Thierry passes stately Art Nouveau villas from the time of the spa’s foundation and immediately feels transported back to that golden age.

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After a short drive through the countryside, we reach the border town of Schengen.

Famous yet unknown The funny thing about Schengen is that all of Europe knows the name, but few can picture the place in their mind’s eye. No wonder: the birthplace of free movement in Europe is a village with fewer than 700 inhabitants. It is a typical winegrowing village situated at the border triangle between France, Germany and Luxembourg, and because of the location, it became a symbol of Europe more or less by chance. We make a stop in front of the European Museum and walk among the Columns of Nations, between the flags and the Europe Monument.

The museum highlights the history and impact of the Schengen Agreement. It is the work of the architect François Valentiny, who is renowned beyond the country’s borders. The Biodiversum in Remerschen is just a stone’s throw away. Another Valentiny work of art. We get out and walk along the shores of the lakes via the various boardwalks that criss-cross the “Haff Réimech”. We try to count the great crested grebes that descend and reappear at ever-changing points in the water. An impossible task. We continue our road trip and turn off at Bech-Kleinmacher towards Wellenstein. We drive on small snaking roads up the wine terraces. Our destination: the panoramic road above the vineyards, parallel to the Moselle. With the panorama of the Moselle

Vineyards as far as the eye can see in a remarkable riverside setting. Luxembourg’s only wine region is found along the banks of the Moselle River.

always in view, we want to approach the “Luxembourg Riviera” from above. The Remich “Croisette” with its pier for the excursion boats and its restaurants and stalls is – rather amusingly – called the “Riviera” by the tourists. However, when you sit in the sun with a glass of wine from the region and some “Moseler Friture”, freshly caught rudd fish, fried whole, you have to admit that the name “Riviera” is justified.

Along the Moselle Fortified, we continue our journey. Our fingers still greasy, our co-drivers still inspired from sampling Auxerrois and Pinot Gris, we take another turn through the vineyards up to the “Koeppchen”, a vantage point below which the Moselle valley reveals its beauty as it meanders along. We are inspired by the passion and love that the Moselle winegrowers devote to their terroir. You can see it in the well-tended dry stone walls and in the attention to detail, for example in the small signs that are set up between the vines. When new cellar buildings are erected, there is – in the architectural design – always a reference to the homeland, to the soil, to the stone. Between gleaming vines, we drive along an asphalted dirt road above the Moselle to the small winegrowing village of Ahn, where you will find several private winegrowers and authentic wine taverns. Perfect to get “one for the road”.

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A discovery tour in a classic car: picturesque villages in a unique cultural and riverside landscape. Here you can enjoy award-winning wines and sparkling Crémants in historic wine villages, modern wine bars, cafés or restaurants that combine contemporary culinary art with regional cuisine. 47 6_GRAND TOUR_Mosel_EN.indd 47

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The “Koeppchen” vineyard near Wormeldange is perhaps the best known in Luxembourg. In any case, it is one of the steepest: with a slope of more than 45°, soil rich in shell limestone

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The “Koeppchen” is topped (in the truest sense of the word) by a chapel, which is also a vantage point from which visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the Moselle valley.

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The “Caves St Martin” are a veritable labyrinth of cellars. The underground galleries stretch for almost a kilometre. When we speak, our voices project a muffled echo through the cellar passageways.

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Carved into a huge limestone rock, the “Caves St Martin” maintain a damp and cold 12°C all year round. Seemingly endless corridors with old wooden barrels and dusty bottles provide an eerily beautiful backdrop, accompanied by soft gurgling and the plip-plop of drops of water splashing onto bottles.

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Moselle To your health

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Beautiful views over river and hills, best with a wine glass in hand! The Markusberg tower  and vantage point in the middle of the rows of vines above Schengen is a very popular spot for this. Wine tastings are organised here. At the Henri Ruppert winery , organically integrated into the vineyard, you can enjoy fine wines by the glass and a great view. www.visitmoselle.lu

Wine tasting with a view

Wine and architecture

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Wine and architecture are closely linked at the Moselle. Now this alliance has been given a name: Via Mosel . It connects four wine-growing regions across borders, from the Côtes de Toul and the AOC Moselle in France to the AOP Moselle Luxembourgeoise and Germany’s Mosel. Some cellars are carved out of the stone and house centuries-old wine cellars, others have

A pleasurable alliance

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been built as modern and elegant structures up on the heights. www.viamosel.com Experience antiquity

The Roman road 

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Antiquity has left its mark. You can visit them along the Roman road, for instance in Dalheim. The Gallo-Roman site “Vicus Ricciacus”  was a way station on the important long-distance road from the Mediterranean to the Rhine in around 15 BC. A particularly well-preserved theatre, an archaeological centre with ancient thermal baths and the remains of a residential and commercial quarter invite visitors to travel back in time here. The most important archaeological site is open to the public at weekends. You can also experience this with the “Lauschtouren” tour guide app. www.ricciacus.lu www.lauschtouren.lu Enchanting!

Butterflies meet a princess

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In the summer months, butterflies of all sizes and colours flutter around the covered butterfly garden  in Grevenmacher. Other exotic animals can

also be found there, from chameleons to Chinese dwarf quails. Not far away is the anchorage of the MS Princesse Marie-Astrid . The passenger ship docks in Grevenmacher, among other places, and starts there on weekends for a day tour. On the other days of the week, you can also call at different stops until autumn and return to the starting point at any time by public transport. www.papillons.lu www.entente-moselle.lu The spirit of Schengen

Europe up close Openness and the European spirit are what make the region so charming. But how did the small winegrowing village of Schengen become the epitome of open borders within the EU? You can find out in the European Information Centre . The original treaty of the Schengen Agreement is displayed here. On the banks of the Moselle, you can wander around the Columns of Nations, see a piece of the Berlin Wall on the “Place des Étoiles”, and the steel stelae on the “Place de l’Accord de Schengen”. www.visitschengen.lu

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Minett ·

Claude “Kinch” ·

Cadillac Sedan DeVille — 1956

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Bertrange Dippach

Differdange

Bettembourg Schifflange

Frisange

Esch-sur-Alzette

Dudelange Rumelange

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Kinch’s son, Philip, will conquer the Land of the Red Rocks today. The transformation from industrial landscape to natural paradise and from steel processing to city of the future is in full swing: the Minett is an exciting region that is really taking off in terms of tourism.

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“Once upon a time, long, long ago, there was a land of fire and shining red earth, where the sky glowed orange every night from the embers of the blast furnaces, like a perpetual sunrise. There the dwarves, who hewed the iron ore from the red rock in the mines, built a village of wood, the conical roofs resembling pointed hats. All the doors in different sizes, the windows crooked and slanted, sometimes round and painted in bright colours. The village: a cheerful complement to the hard and dangerous work underground!” This is how we would have liked to answer Kinch’s son Philipp’s question about who built these tree houses at the animal park in Esch-sur-Alzette. Unfortunately, we’re not as spontaneous as that and only tell the real story: that there are many great projects underway in the region. Open-cast mines that have been renatured and partly used as mountain bike parks. Industrial plants that have been shut down and can now be visited. The university is located between the blast furnaces of Belval and the tree houses that can be rented for overnight stays.

If the image of a rust belt is to be used at all in rather tidy Luxembourg, it is of course best used in the Land of the Red Rocks. That’s what the locals call their territory – with a certain pride typically found in the mining regions of Europe. The red rock is omnipresent in the rusty south.

Steel and nature For a family, the region is a huge adventure playground. We arrive at the Cockerill pit, in the Ellergrund district near Esch-sur-Alzette. It could also be the backdrop for a Rammstein concert. Although it’s too green here for that: nature has already fought its way back. Besides, the playground with its cable car doesn’t quite fit into the Rammstein image. For Claude

and Philipp, this is a place they always like to come to discover a new secret corner every time.

Grand Canyon in the Grand Duchy We cruise along Ellergrund through former mining terrain, rocking gently with every bump. The rock is riddled with holes, as if an army of oversized moles had been up to mischief here. Again and again, the dark eye sockets of mine entrances appear in the bushes. Sometimes you can see red cliffs shining through the trees: nature is slowly reclaiming the open-cast mines. Although the landscape here is man-made, the shape and colour of the former mines are reminiscent of the Red Rocks in the USA.

An experience especially for families: Located in the middle of Esch- sur-Alzette’s animal park, the “Escher Bamhaiser” (Esch treehouses) are accessible at a height of up to four metres via wooden walkways.

Sounds a bit boring for a threeyear-old. But what’s changing down south is worth seeing up close! Kinch, by the way, is the DJ name of the Cadillac DeVille driver Claude, who will be taking his wife Jill, son Philipp and us for a spin around his home region. Claude is a real boy from the Minett, as they call the south here.

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Over an area as large as 170 football fields, a modern city district is being built in Belval with a university and research centres, start-up companies, shops, the large Rockhal music and event venue, exhibition spaces and, last but not least, apartments. An entire district infused with optimism.

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The blast furnaces in Belval: huge, silent, steel structures. Gigantic witnesses of another time. Over 7,000 workers were once employed here. Today, a modern university and city of science is growing in the south.

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Everywhere you can see how nature is reclaiming the former mining territory. The Minett boasts a wealth of biodiversity and rare plants. In October 2020, the Minett was officially granted the UNESCO Man and Biosphere label. The region is now part of a prestigious international network of more than 700 biosphere reserves in 124 countries.

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The playlist plays the complete Grease soundtrack. With every bump, the chassis bobs to the beat. Is that really Olivia Newton-John sitting next to the driver? Even if it’s not her, the car is like Greased Lightning!

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We take another tour through “Little Arizona”. In the sunlight, the scenery shines in a brilliant Grand Canyon red. We wouldn’t be surprised if a puma suddenly jumped in front of the Cadillac.

Between mines and modernity Claude wants to take us to his undisputed top photo spot: the blast furnaces of Belval. In the past, this was totally covered with heavy industry. Now it is being transformed. Most of the gigantic blast furnaces are still standing. The huge steel structures are polished to a high gloss and glisten between the modern buildings. Everything that’s new grows between the old and enters into a tense alliance.

Rumble in the jungle “Let me introduce you, this is what it looks like when the “Retro-Cars-Péiteng” club meets.” Claude’s face is wearing a very broad grin. Although only a handful of the club’s members are waiting for us with their cars at Minett Park Fond-de-Gras, it’s a scene from a James Dean film. You can just imagine what a sight it is when the group drives past together. Crazily beautiful! We take another look at the Victor Binck grocery shop, which was moved from Differdange to Fond-de-Gras as a walk-in exhibit. The high wooden shelves are filled with antique tins, bowls and all kinds of packaging. Everything has a little patina on it. But we can

Meeting of the generations. The “Retro-Cars-Péiteng” vehicles are just as lovingly restored as the factory halls of the Minett Park Fond-de-Gras.

still imagine how the wooden drawers behind the counter used to be slid open and flour and polenta measured out in small scoops. After all, many Italians immigrated to the south of Luxembourg as workers, bringing their food culture with them. It’s dusk. We move on. DJ Kinch will now take his family back home. An atmospheric drive through the falling night. In the twilight, the silhouettes of mine trains, trolleys, the rolling mill and other shadowy objects pass by. Eerily beautiful.

Epilogue in Esch The region has its own sound. As we listened to people’s conversations, it seemed to us that the tone here was more direct, perhaps rougher. More honest. A remnant from the time of the shafts and mines, when a clear, concise announcement could be vital for survival. That, too, is cultural heritage. Unadorned cordiality. The final stop: the Café Chaplin, at an inconspicuous crossroads in Ehlerange. Kinch often meets the boys from another friendly car club here. Today was no exception. With a hearty nearintroduction to the gang (we just lack the right car) we agree: Retro car clubs fit well in a region where friendship, the purr of engines, polished metal and a community spirit celebrated with food, drinks and witty sayings are skilfully kept alive.

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“All we need” is emblazoned in huge letters on the wall of an old hall in Belval. A question? An exclamation? We’re allowed to interpret it for ourselves. Here, in the midst of all this old-meets-new, we think: all we need is vision and courage. Then great and inspiring things can happen.

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In the Cockerill pit, where countless ore trains entered and left the galleries over the decades, the natural and industrial heritage of the region go hand in hand today. The “Ellergronn” Nature Conservation Centre is located in the immediate vicinity of the museum. It displays how impressively nature has developed without human intervention since the open-cast mining areas were closed down. 64

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Huge steel machines. Gigantic flywheels. Disused steam locomotives. Dilapidated platforms. Gallery entrances from which a cool wind blows. The region is a huge adventure playground, and not just for families.

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It’s dusk. The rear lights on the tips of the Cadillac’s tail fins now shine like two small lighthouses. An atmospheric drive through the falling night. In the twilight, the silhouettes of mine trains, trolleys, the rolling mill and other shadowy objects pass by. Eerily beautiful.

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A trip to the Minett Park Fondde-Gras is a trip into the past. Young and old can travel on the Train 1900 steam train from Pétange to Fond-de-Gras, right through the Land of the Red Rocks. Volunteers have been ensuring that the train line remains alive since 1973. 67 7_GRAND TOUR_Minett_EN.indd 67

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From dust to dawn

UNESCO Biosphere The Minett has been designated as a UNESCO Biosphere since 2020. Ideal for a stop when touring by car: the “Giele Botter”  geological tour. On the 2.5 km-long thematic walk through the disused

Esch rocks the south



Esch2022 is casting its shadow ahead: the region will be the European Capital of Culture 2022 . The mood: alternative multiculturalism, start-up spirit and a good dose of creativity. Digital projects and live performances mingle against a varied backdrop of nature, industrial culture and a future world. The new Minett Trail hiking network is also being launched. www.esch2022.lu There is already a lot to discover in Esch- Belval : the Massenoire old industrial hall with exhibitions about the past and future of the site, the Rockhal with concerts and other cultural events or the general campus life with its cafés, restaurants and bars. You can tell that it’s a cool place here just by looking at the street names. Where else can you find a Rock’n’Roll Avenue? www.belval.lu

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Just swap your car for a steam train and take the Train 1900  from Petange train station to Fond-de-Gras. Or hop aboard the “Minièresbunn” miner’s train. The Minett Park includes the Fond-de-Gras openair museum and the former mining village of Lasauvage . Also great: the National Mining Museum in Rumelange and the Cockerill pit museum in the Ellergronn nature reserve. The migration history of many workers of the steel industry’s past is documented in the Documentation Centre for Human Migrations in Dudelange. www.minetttour.lu

City of Culture 2022

On a Minett tour

Industrial past live

open-cast mining area, you can learn interesting facts about iron ore deposits, open-cast mining and fossils. www.minett.lu

Minett

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Well cool

Urban art photo stop

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The university library in Belval with the Luxembourg Learning Center  is another masterpiece by architect François Valentiny. Inside, spacious rooms with reading corners and, of course, plenty of books. From the inside looking out, you can see the dust patterns of the iron industry printed on the faceted windows. www.uni.lu

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Sprayer Alain Welter has completely covered the five remaining former cooling towers on the factory premises of steel manufacturer ArcelorMittal  in Differdange with his street art. The history of the Minett region in pictures: Rails, trains and wagons, miners and sayings can be discovered. The best spot to take pictures is on the bridge at Avenue de la Liberté between Niederkorn and Differdange. www.differdange.lu

  69

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EXPERIENCE A REGION AS DIVERSE AS ITS PEOPLE Cultural diversity, a center of science, unique natural escapes, and an industrial heritage. Experience the European Capital of Culture.

With the support of

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ESCH2022.LU

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Éislek ·

Frazer ·

VW Bulli T2 Westfalia — 1976

Weiswampach Asselborn

Clervaux Munshausen

Stolzembourg Wiltz Vianden

Bavigne Esch-sur-Sûre

Bourscheid

Diekirch

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Ettelbruck

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The Éislek region in the north of Luxembourg is criss-crossed by picturesque valleys and high plateaus with panoramic views. In this unique and largely unspoilt landscape, not only nature lovers get their money’s worth. Here, no two views are alike.

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Place of action: the Oesling, or Éislek, as they say in Luxembourg. The heroes of the story: two Britons with Luxembourg passports, a Spanish woman and a German with an English name. It has to be said that the German has a soul, but instead of a heart, she has a 47-horsepower engine. Frazer – the driver of the old Volkswagen – has christened the van “The Orange Beast”. Luxembourg has long been a biotope for diversity and variety, and so we accompany this typically Luxembourgish travel group on their bus trip through the north of the country. Bourscheid Castle is perched on its hilltop like in a fairytale. At its feet is the Sûre river – and now us too. Passing the campsite, we drive along the riverside promenade and look up.

In the land of castles

spot, criss-crossed by hiking trails. In the densely wooded landscape, you often come across gnarled evergreen oaks. They were originally planted by the tanners who needed the bark for their craft. Today they give the area a wild and enchanted appearance. The Spaniard, Cami, and the British Luxembourger, Andrew, let Frazer take them along the “Bourscheid Plage” in his van. We daringly and death-defyingly take the turn-off to the castle – the largest building of its kind in the country – and amble up back into the Middle Ages. “I know a great photo spot a few bends behind the castle! If we take a photo there, your

Instagram feeds will explode”, jokes Mr Discoaquajogger. Frazer’s social media name suggests that we are dealing with a typical Brit (his parents are originally from England), both a witty lad and contemporary eccentric. After a sheltered upbringing in Luxembourg, he initially studied computer science, then joined the British Army, served in Iraq, came back to Luxembourg and worked as a business consultant, and now – a logical step, we think – started teaching in a primary school. He is also a marathon runner known throughout the country and as such, he loves to discover nature while jogging in his adopted home. Of course, he prefers to travel to his running routes in his old van.

It’s not just children who smile when he drives by. “I feel like I’m sitting in an oversized orange balloon floating across the street. The upright seating position is perfect for waving back!” You can tell Frazer loves his van life.

We always have the majestic castle in view. “I wonder if we’ll make it up there at all,” Frazer says. “Well, the old lords of the castle had to make do with even less horsepower. The Beast won’t let us down!” The Éislek in the north of Luxembourg is a foothill of the Ardennes. The landscape is comparatively rough: jagged slate, windy heights, deeply carved river valleys. It is a pristine and extremely varied

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600 years ago, the knights probably didn’t travel any slower than with a 47-horsepower VW “Bulli” when they rode up the winding roads to Bourscheid Castle. But the slower one goes, the more one sees! After all, the Éislek region has a lot of natural beauty to offer.

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Bourscheid Castle is Luxembourg’s largest castle. It’s an impressive structure with characteristic round towers. The castle was probably built in the 10th century, enlarged in the 14th and 15th centuries and then given the fortress wall flanked by six Gothic towers. From the castle you have a fantastic view over the valley. In the evening, the building is atmospherically illuminated, creating a fairy-tale scene. 77 8_GRAND TOUR_Eislek_EN.indd 77

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Civilisation and wilderness: sometimes they perform an inspiring dance. The Upper Sûre Lake is located in the Éislek in the middle of the nature park: swimming, paddling, diving, surfing, sailing – the largest reservoir in the country has enough space for all this. But only for water sports without engine noise.

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To appreciate the full beauty of the Upper Sûre Nature Park, we visit the Bélvedère Burfelt panoramic platform. Leaning over the parapet, we look down 70 metres. Silently, the solar boat passes by, with a few excursionists on board.

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Immersed in water and landscapes “Speaking of...”, Frazer urges us on, even though the scenery beckons us to stay: the view over the castle and the countryside is magnificent. “My favourite running routes are close by, around the Upper Sûre reservoir. There are numerous paths through the forest. The lake sparkles intermittently through the branches.” They are here so often that The Orange Beast knows the roads inside out: the route from Esch-sur Sûre towards the lake, along the shore or over the mighty dam wall. You can’t help but fall in love. But before we get to appreciate the lakeside landscape, we have an appointment at the “Hôtel de la Sûre” in Esch-sur-Sûre. “My

kingdom for power steering!” Frazer has quite a bit of cranking to do in the winding streets of the little town, but it’s worth the effort. The heavy wood slice serving board, replete with Ardennes delicacies, invites us to stay longer on the roof terrace, but the motto is “Grand Tour” and not “delay all day”. So save the wine for later, and off we go. “Please get in, the reservoir is waiting!” Chauffeur Frazer steers the T2 through the narrow tunnel that leads right under the castle ruins onto the narrow road into the Nature Park of the Upper Sûre. “And voilà. This stretch from Esch-sur-Sûre along the lake shore and – finally – over the dam wall is my absolute favourite section! The long curves are just made for cruising. Totally relaxed… especially when you’re sitting in such a sweet old van.”

The “Hotel de la Sûre” in Esch-sur-Sûre is set among narrow streets. From the roof terrace, the small tour group has a good view of the ruins of the old castle fortress and the loop of the Sûre River that flows around the old town centre.

A vintage touch We visit a very special photo exhibition in the north of the country: The Family of Man is on permanent display at Clervaux Castle and is part of the UNESCO World Documentary Heritage. We drive on, in valleys cut deep into the Ardennes, over winding roads, through the hilliest region of Luxembourg. We wind our way up to plateaus with far-reaching views and disappear again into the wooded depths of the Éislek. This rollercoaster ride brings us to the town of Vianden. As if from nowhere, the mighty castle suddenly appears in front of our windscreen. Everyone’s necks are strained. We all press our noses against the windows to catch a glimpse of the masonry towering high up on a rock in the narrow valley.

In the Valley of the Donkeys Then on to Diekirch. Donkeys on every corner and in all forms: real ones, fluffy toys or in bronze. The town’s mascot is omnipresent. We’re almost a little disappointed that none of these animals are hiding among the shiny cars in the classic car museum. We carefully chose the town as the last stop on our Éislek tour. After a visit to the History Museum of the Diekirch Brewery, our after work beer at the Brasserie “Beim Louis” in the old town centre tastes so much better.

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The Family of Man is a legendary photographic exhibition of humanist photography put together by Edward Steichen for New York’s MoMA in 1955. After an international tour, the exhibition is now on permanent display at Clervaux Castle and is part of UNESCO’s World Documentary Heritage.

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In earlier times, the farmers from Diekirch used donkeys to plough and cultivate their fields and vineyards on the slopes of the Herrenberg — the donkey being the only animal that could manage on such terrain.

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In Diekirch, you meet the likeable, stubborn animals at every corner. The mascot is omnipresent, and when we encounter them up close, we immediately understand why the people of Diekirch have never given up their love for the donkey.

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The Bulli — and its helmsman — loses its bearings in the intricate maze of alleys and has to turn around in a dead-end street in front of a picture-perfect backdrop, with smiling passengers on board. From an aesthetic point of view, a beautiful scene: the retro paint of the vehicle in front of the vintage façades of the old houses in the town of Vianden. A perfect composition.

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Vianden is not only a picturesque tourist town – it also offered asylum to a famous poet. In the 19th century, Victor Hugo spent some time in Vianden as a political refugee. The house where he lived has been a museum since 1935. And who knows, maybe the Hunchback of Notre Dame sometimes comes to visit. 85 8_GRAND TOUR_Eislek_EN.indd 85

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Éislek

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In summer, the beaches of Insenborn, Lultzhausen and Liefrange  invite you to come bathe. Great views can be enjoyed, for example, at the Ourdall Promenade viewpoint with a view of Vianden Castle , in Michelau with a panorama of Bourscheid Castle and at the Heiderscheidergrund-Teifëlslee viewpoint . In Clervaux, the “Cité de l’Image”  invites you on a tour of an open-air photo gallery. In addition to The Family of Man, the famous UNESCO-classified photo exhibition, the castle also houses a museum of the Battle of the Bulge and, last but not least, models of all Luxembourg’s castles. Worth a detour: the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Maurice in Clervaux with its Loreto Chapel. www.visit-clervaux.lu

Cultural roots and wild nature

The Luxembourg Ardennes

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Local specialities and good fare

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How about a picnic in the Éislek forests? Just spread out the chequered table-

Lay the table!

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cloth and cut some fine slices of Ardennes ham. In the Our and Upper Sûre nature parks, you will not only find unique protected nature, but also shops selling regional specialities . Whether herbs, oils, mustard, honey, teas or cereals: the products with the “Vum Séi” label or from the BEO regional farmers’ initiative are worth sampling, and the “Our daller” and “Den Heischter” breweries are well worth the visit. www.beo.lu www.vumsei.lu

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Experience the Middle Ages

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Castles upon castles

The Éislek region is the cradle of a medieval culture, the traces of which are still visible today. Especially in the iconic castles, of course. The most famous example is Vianden . Also worth seeing is Bourscheid, Luxembourg’s largest castle, as well as the ruins of Brandenburg and Esch-sur-Sûre .



The Wiltz Festival  is held in June and July. In the beautiful setting of Wiltz Castle, visitors can experience music in all its forms, as well as dance, opera and musicals. Numerous world stars have performed on the amphi-

theatre stage here and contributed to the festival’s high status for cultural life. www.festivalwiltz.lu Why not spend the night in a castle? www.chateau-urspelt.lu Experience everyday life from the past

Hands-on museums Éislek is the land of agriculture. That was the case in the past, and it has remained so to this day. Where huge tractors now drive over roads and country lanes, 150 years ago you could hear the rattling of carriages and clattering of horses’ hooves. The Robbesscheier Tourist Centre  in Munshausen and the “A Schiewesch” country museum in Binsfeld offer insights into rural life in those days. Did you know that fabrics were also made in Éislek? The “Duch vum Séi”, an old cloth factory in Esch-sur Sûre bears witness to this. The oldest mill in the Grand Duchy boasts almost 1,000 years of history. It’s located in the town of Asselborn, as are the Post Station and Stationery Museums. Good to know: The old mill in Asselborn also welcomes hotel guests. www.robbesscheier.lu www.museebinsfeld.lu

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Centre ·

Pascal ·

Morgan 4/4 — 2018

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Fischbach

Mersch

Schoenfels Bourglinster

Betzdorf Walferdange

Luxembourg City

Niederanven

Contern

Dalheim

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Skylines and river valleys, modern glass buildings on historic foundations and lots of greenery: Luxembourg’s capital is as diverse as its inhabitants from more than 170 nations.

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We find ourselves in a bespoke tailor’s shop in London in the late 1920s. An extremely stylishly dressed man in a perfectly fitted tweed suit of the latest fashion is taking measurements. A customer with pipe and moustache is chatting with the owner of the shop. Here you not only get tailormade clothes, but also all the essentials that a man of standing needs for his happiness. On display are cufflinks, pocket handkerchiefs, ties, eau de colognes and other items that testify to the buyer’s good taste. Reporter and photographer wait patiently, listen curiously, watch closely. The owner now has time for us: “Bonjour, I’m Pascal, owner of this little shop. Let’s go outside for a moment – an aperitif later? – There’s a lot going on at the moment. – But it’s a great project, this classic car story – Luxembourg is really made for classic car drivers: beautiful landscapes, great roads, even the city where we will be travelling has many streets worth seeing! By the way, my 2018 Morgan 4/4 is almost identical in construction to the 1927 models – a real time capsule.” Hold on. A bit of confusion. We pass through the door to the shop and suddenly find ourselves in the middle of the old town of Luxembourg City. That’s right, it’s the 20s, but ten decades later. The man who speaks so energetically and who escorts us out is Pascal Zimmer, a true original and a jack-of-all-trades. In addition to the three shops he runs in the city, all of which catapult the visitor into another century because of the attention to detail with which they are furnished, he also runs a hotel,

is a building contractor and owns a fitness studio. And in between, he was the coach of the Luxembourg national judo team! Clearly for this man, it’s a matter of all or nothing. “I had a great affinity for Britain and 1920s fashion from the Isles from an early age! It was the golden age for men. The cuts, the fabrics, the hats and caps: the proportions of the fashion items really flattered the men who wore them. The accessories had style without being ostentatious or vulgar. The whole thing was coupled with the legendary British eccentricity and somewhat ironic view of oneself. I just love it,” says Pascal. Rarely have we met someone who is so consistently dedicated to the

style of a particular era. So highly impressed by this, we begin our city tour. Always in focus as a splash of colour is Pascal’s elegant, bright red Morgan. It’s not a real classic car, but similar to the city we want to explore, it is a successful combination of historical elements and a modern engine.

Everything is history The history of the city dates back at least 1,000 years. The end of the Second World War is, of course, still felt today and is interwoven with the fate of modern Luxembourg. At the American Cemetery with its more than 5,000 bright white

1920s fashion from the British Isles meets a tram of today. The proportions of the suits from the golden age of elegance are still state of the art for classic business suits. By the way, you can use the entire public transport system in Luxembourg free of charge, whether in elegant or casual fashion.

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“CHARLOTTE POSENENSKE: WORK IN PROGRESS”, 10.10.2020 - 10.01.2021, MUDAM LUXEMBOURG SQUARE TUBES SERIES D, 1967/2018. DIA ART FOUNDATION

The Grand-Duc Jean Museum of Modern Art – Mudam breathes cosmopolitan flair into the capital and has long since become an icon for architectural reasons alone. Even if you are “just” an aesthete and a lover of beautiful things, you will come here to browse in the museum shop or to linger in the café. A visit here is particularly enjoyable at the weekend, when brunch turns into an extended family feast or a meal with friends. Every Wednesday evening, people dance to live concerts, clap to performances or listen to conferences.

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A beautiful image of a man straight out of the 1920s strolling through the rooms of the Mudam. Pascal pulls out his mobile phone to take a photo. His mobile? "Ah, we've been tricked! This scene with its retro aesthetic had to be interrupted at least once, even if only briefly! It is quite forgivable, because it is true that the museum and its various rooms are simply very photogenic.

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The historic old town has a special charm. A huge red bridge connects it with the Kirchberg Plateau and links the two contrasting districts. Here there are fortified walls and pastel-coloured town houses, while over there, European institutions, international companies and cultural institutions. Just a bridge away.

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Inaugurated in 1966, the Grand Duchess Charlotte Bridge (popularly known as the “Rout Bréck”, or the “Red Bridge”) spans the Alzette valley. At a height of 74 m and with a length of 355 m, it connects the European Quarter on the Kirchberg Plateau with the city centre of Luxembourg.

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crosses, standing silently in rows, admonishing, we get an idea of how important it was and is for Luxembourg to focus on and turn towards a united Europe. The fact that the country is surrounded by friendly states and trading partners, that the barriers at the borders are open, is not preordained, but a reality that had to be won politically. The hospitality that one experiences as a visitor, the fact that more people with non-Luxembourg passports work and live in the capital than locals, is probably an expression of a deeply felt understanding that diversity, openness to the world, turning towards each other pay off in the end. The currency: encounters, ideas, cultural exchange, stories, friendships and – of course – economic success.

We follow the fiery red Morgan through the very green capital until we’re dizzy. We jet through French (or Romanesque?) looking alleys, past inner-city orchards and wooded slopes. We wind down from the Plateau into the so-called Grund. You can really get lost here. And that’s what tourists should do. In winding cobblestone alleys, you discover small restaurants or shops that you would otherwise not come across.

Confusingly beautiful We, on the other hand, just follow the “red lightning”, whose driver must know the city like

The Hotel Graace was originally the blacksmith’s shop of the Graas brothers during the 1960s. And just as the family name still resonates in the hotel name, the former architecture and purpose of the buildings can still be seen and felt. With great attention to detail, the forge has been transformed into a hotel.

the back of his tweed waistcoat. We drive over bridges with rounded brick arches, only to find ourselves right under them after a few manoeuvres. We reach vantage points, and say: “Oh, what a pretty pointed church tower over there,” and in a flash, we speed past that very church tower. All the while, a barely discernible smile hovers around the corners of Pascal’s mouth. He obviously enjoys guiding us along the winding paths through his Luxembourg. We stroll awhile over the cobblestones. A short stop at a pâtisserie. The city's culinary scene is a mixture of the various influences of its inhabitants. Of course, there are many French-inspired restaurants in addition to the Luxembourgish ones, but bistros offering Portuguese, Dutch, Italian or Spanish menus are also situated closely together, from north to south of the Grand Rue, for instance. “You can park close to the city centre in the multi-storey car park under Place Guillaume,” Pascal advises. We don’t do that, however, but drive on in the gathering dusk through a slowly illuminating city to the Hotel Graace. Modern industrial style. An amazing picture to finish off: in a building that had its actual purpose in the middle of the last century and which has now been given a super-modern makeover, there he stands, Pascal, the “Lonesome Rider” from the early 1920s. As if he had always been standing there, as though time had simply passed him by. We’re in the middle of the Bonnevoie district, and now we just have to find ourselves a cool bar. “Make it one for my baby. And one more for the road.”

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Up, down, bridge, tunnel, alley, one-way street: Luxembourg City is a place to get lost in. The capital is criss-crossed by the deep gorges of the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers. The underground cave network of the casemates lies within the rocks. New impressions await you around every bend. At the end, you no longer know which way is up and which way is down. It’s all confusingly beautiful. 97 9_GRAND TOUR_Zentrum_EN.indd 97

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“And voilà! Look at this shop window. What a menagerie!” Pascal leads us to an antique shop. The owner displays his credentials in curved letters on the window. On display are items that were worth keeping for decades and centuries and are now looking for a new owner. Pascal is not the only one who loves enduring and timeless things.

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There are many charming shops in the old town of Luxembourg. This part of town is the ideal place to wander around: too intricate to get a quick overview – and at the same time too small to really get lost. 99 9_GRAND TOUR_Zentrum_EN.indd 99

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Stone upon stone of history. We cross, drive through and pass buildings from several centuries. Sometimes they are inviting little boutiques or bistros, sometimes they are defiant stone structures that recall the city’s fortress. As we drive, history envelops us.

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Luxembourg Fortress, proudly known in the Grand Duchy as the “Gibraltar of the North”, was a fortification of the City of Luxembourg and of great strategic importance for the border region until its demolition in 1867. Fortunately, many buildings — such as the castle bridge built of red sandstone in 1735 — have been preserved. 101 9_GRAND TOUR_Zentrum_EN.indd 101

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Centre Mobile capital city



In the capital, you can lose yourself in the alleyways in your own vehicle. Or wander through Luxembourg City on foot and get around by bus or the brand new ultra-modern tram . Just leave your car in one of the Park & Ride car parks, such as Glacis, the railway station, Luxexpo, P+R Centre Douanier or P+R Bouillon, and then free of charge (yes, you read that right!) right into the sometimes vibrant, sometimes tranquil city life. www.mobiliteit.lu

The tram’s coming



The small, winding alleyways, shops and boutiques  of the city are a wonderful place to shop. Gourmets will find everything from pralines and the famous “Rieslingspaschtéit” meat pie to buttery madeleines in the city’s delicatessens and pâtisseries.

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Shopping, eating and drinking

Invitation to stroll around

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Site is provided by the Wenceslas Tour . It includes the Corniche, the Rham Plateau, the Bock Casemates  and Neumünster Abbey. The You can spend more than panoramic lift  runs a day in the museums in between the upper town the centre of Luxembourg and the Pfaffenthal district. alone. The Museumsmile During the ride you can invites you on a cultural admire the surroundings walk linking seven musethrough the glass walls. ums: The Villa Vauban – Spectacular! The Vauban Musée d’Art de la Ville Trail offers beautiful views de Luxembourg  with its both on foot and by car. beautifully landscaped park, www.luxembourg-city.com the Casino Luxembourg – Contemporary Art Forum, the Lëtzebuerg City Castles Museum, the National near the city Museum of Natural History – natur musée, the National Museum of History and Art, as well as the Dräi Eechelen Museum and Follow in the footsteps the Mudam  on the of the Grand Ducal family Kirchberg plateau. in the surrounding countrywww.museumsmile.lu side, the Guttland region. Culture hopping

One mile of museums



At the Grand Duke’s

Look at this city!

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Views and prospects

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The Corniche is also known as “Europe’s most beautiful balcony”, as local writer Batty Weber once proclaimed. The path runs beside the ramparts built in the 17th century along the Alzette valley. It stretches from the Bock Promontory to the lower part of the Holy Ghost Citadel. An overview of the old town’s UNESCO World Heritage

Hereditary Grand Duke Guillaume lives in Fischbach Castle with his young family. The loving spirit of Grand Duke Jean still lingers. The father of Grand Duke Henri, who was very popular with the people, lived here after his abdication until his death in 2019. Further north, Grand Duke Henri and his wife Maria Teresa now reside in the Colmar-Berg castle. More royally beautiful walls: the castle of Munsbach with its magnificent gardens and Bourglinster Castle , where star chef René Mathieu invites you to dine. www.bourglinster.lu

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Avenue Emile Reuter

Bvd. Prince Henri

VILLA VAUBAN MUSÉE D’ART DE LA VILLE DE LUXEMBOURG

DISCOVER THE DIVERSITY OF LUXEMBOURG’S MUSEUMS WITHIN A SHORT DISTANCE

Rue Notre Dame

CASINO LUXEMBOURG FORUM D’ART CONTEMPORAIN

W W W. M U S E U M S M I LE . LU

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Luci Special

Concept & Editor-in-chief Valerio D’Alimonte

ISSUE 2021

Creative Direction & Editorial Design Guido Kröger, ampersand.studio

Luci Special

Inspiring road trips through Luxembourg

ISSUE 2021 – ENGLISH

www.visitluxembourg.com · www.Luci.travel

Pancake! (photos) Not only for classic cars On the road among giant rocks

Grand Tour of Luxembourg Places for connoisseurs and culture enthusiasts

Traditional and modern The diversity of the regions and the capital

Publisher Luxembourg for Tourism BP 1001, L-1010 Luxembourg Tel. +352 42 82 82 1 info@visitluxembourg.com VisitLuxembourg visit_luxembourg @luxembourginfo www.visitluxembourg.com

© LFT 2021 All rights reserved. Any complete or partial use, reproduction, duplication, publication, transmission or distribution in any form whatsoever without prior written permission of LFT is not permitted. ISSN 2716-733x

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Tips Birgit Pfaus-Ravida (writer) Lis Lorang (coordination) Photos with kind permission of the partners. Final editing Birgit Pfaus-Ravida Translations & proofreading Binsfeld Rachel Ezard Lis Lorang Sarah Pitt Maps Walter Ciotti Acknowledgements Frazer Alexander with friends Cami and Andrew Simone Decker Claude “Kinch” Frantzen with wife Jill and son Philipp Thierry Hilger Yves Mentz Pascal Zimmer

Printing Imprimerie Centrale WP

LUCI SPECIAL

GrandTour — Inspiring road trips through Luxembourg

Stories Thomas Jutzler (writer)

Circulation Total editions: 20,000 English edition: 5,000 Languages English, French, German, Luxembourgish Advertising hello@luci.travel Partnership The six tours presented are part of the “Grand Tour of Luxembourg”, which was devised by the tourism offices of the Éislek, Guttland, Minett, Moselle and Mullerthal regions.

Further “Inspiring Travel Stories from Luxembourg” at www.Luci.travel

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DIEKIRCH VILLE DES MUSÉES Musée National d’Histoire Militaire 10, Bamertal L-9209 Diekirch www.mnhm.net

Musée National d’Histoire Militaire (MNHM)

Musée d’Histoire[s] Diekirch 13, rue du Curé L-9217 Diekirch www.mhsd.lu

Conservatoire National de Véhicules Historiques / Musée d’Histoire de la Brasserie de Diekirch 20-22, rue de Stavelot L-9280 Diekirch www.cnvh.lu _ www.luxem.beer

Conservatoire National de Véhicules Historiques / Musée d’Histoire de la Brasserie de Diekirch

Musée d’Histoire[s] Diekirch (MH[s]D)