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Celebration time In the Alentejo, these wines are mostly made in pots called ‘talha’, used for fermenting grape juice and storing various liquids, especially wine and olive oil. The talhas are made from clay and therefore porous, and the inside is coated with an impermeable surface, such as pine resin. After the harvest, the grapes are crushed and then put inside the clay pots, where fermentation spontaneously takes place. During this period, the grape pulp and skins rise to the surface and form a solid mass. This is punched with a wooden plunger and is pushed back down into the must to transmit more colour, aroma and flavour to the wine. When fermentation is complete, the mass settles to the bottom of the talha, near the bottom of which there is a hole that is closed with a cork stopper – a ‘batoque’ – that keeps the wine from dripping out. This talha wine is traditionally declared ready to drink on 11 November, Saint Martin’s Day (Feira de São Martinho), the high point in each year’s celebration of the millenary relationship between the Alentejo and orange wine. At the ceremony, the wine is consumed very quickly in the traditional Alentejo pubs and wineries so it is fast to run out. As an accompaniment, seasonal dishes – quince, walnuts, chestnuts, and a wide range of local delicacies, especially the famous Alentejo black pork – are offered. The wine that’s left will end up in stainless steel tanks. Alternatively, it can be bottled after the addition of a small amount of sulfur dioxide. If you are thinking about food pairing, orange wines are super versatile. I think that meat is a great choice. The combination of acidity, white-grape freshness and tannins makes orange wine a good partner with lamb or spicy stews, curries, grilled meats, and even strong cheeses. Because of their boldness, orange wines also pair well with Moroccan dishes or traditional Japanese cuisine. However, these wines are great to sip before starting a meal or while transitioning from a main course to dessert.
Best enjoyed When it comes to serving, do not drink an orange wine too cold – if you chill it down too much it mutes the flavours and aromas. For storage, I would suggest cellar temperature, then to serve it at 12-14°C. Because orange wines tend to have a little more tannin and structure than white wines, they benefit from a bit of oxygen in the glass. Choose a larger glass than you would for a white wine so that those more complex aromas get a chance to open up. Orange wine is a discovery of new aromas, new textures in the mouth, and a cultural tradition dating back to when man first made wine. A taste of history, so to speak. Do not look for a supermarket purchase – head instead for wine shops or buy directly at the wineries.
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WINE PLUS
These are orange wines that I recommend are worth trying: CARTUXA VINHO DE CURTIMENTA WHITE 2017 This wine is a blend of the Arinto, Roupeiro, Fernão Pires, Trincadeira das Pratas, and Malvasia Rei grape varieties. Tanning lasts for 29 days in carving, which is very evident in the complex aromas of dry vegetables and citrus fruits. Great harmony and perfect acid balance appear on the palate with this elegant and vibrant wine. Producer: Cartuxa (Alentejo) cartuxa.pt/en/ wine-portfolio/cartuxa-whitecurtimenta-wine-doc-alentejoevora/ ANSELMO MENDES CURTIMENTA WHITE This is a multi-awarded winning wine made from the emblematic grape variety of the Vinho Verde region, Alvarinho. The wine completes fermentation in used barrels, in addition to undergoing an aging period of nine months also in used barrels, and then another six months in the bottle. With an intense yellow colour, and aromas of citric fruits and floral nuances, it is a soft, fullbodied, and very persistent wine, characteristic of the grape variety used. Producer: Anselmo Mendes (Vinho Verde) anselmomendes.pt/en/wine/ vinhos-verdes/36
FITAPRETA – A LARANJA MECÂNICA is a beautiful orange wine with a wonderful dark golden hue. The wine is creamy yet structured with character and notes of rooibos, saffron, grapefruit, and a lovely herbal undertow. A deliciously textured palate, with the right amount of grip and lick of acidity, it is spicy and herbal, an orange wine in more than just colour. Producer: Fita Preta Vinhos (Alentejo) antoniomacanita. com/en/onlinewines/fita-pretavinhos/a-laranjamecanica-2020 QUINTA DE SANTA TERESA CURTIMENTA I would suggest this wine for organic wine lovers. It is a white tanning wine made from the Avesso single grape in the Minho region. The tanning process promotes the dissolution of more phenolic compounds and tannins, resulting in a wine with amberorange tones. It is partially aged in barrels for six months, and then in stainless steel vats. No animal derivatives are used. Expect expressive notes of dehydrated fruit, dried oregano, and tea leaves on the nose. Typical rusticity of the astringency of the tannins in a combination of notes of dried fruits, bay leaves, and loquats on the palate. Producer: A&D Wines (Baião, Vinho Verde) andwines.pt/ wines/quintade-santa-teresa/ curtimenta/2022/
