Opposite page, top left, clockwise: Viana’s contemporary library; pipe organ of the Misericordia Church; Praça da República in the heart of the city; streets of the old town. This page, below: Viana’s famous filigree jewellery; right: The Axis Viana Hotel, the most modern in its category in the country; inset: FeelViana Sport Hotel
Did you know that the many legends about the sacred heart of Viana have inspired an upcoming animated 3D feature film, made in Portugal. It is called Viana, The Legend of the Golden Hearts and it will be in theatres near us by Christmas 2024. I could go on about other beautiful Viana things such as the traditional ceramics you can visit at the Museum of Decorative Arts or the intricate ship replicas crafted by a local boat fisherman-turned-artist displayed upstairs. If you love contemporary architecture, I could tell you a little more about Viana’s Pritzker Prizewinning library building, the industrial-looking Cultural Centre and the Hotel Áxis. I could mention the Gil Eannes Hospital Ship, originally built in Viana in 1955 to support the Portuguese cod fishing fleet working near Newfoundland and Greenland. But space is running out and I hope to leave you curious and tempted.
Axis Viana, 4-star Next to the city park and renowned for its architecture and ‘business and spa concept’, it is considered the most modern hotel in its category in the country. axishoteis.com/pt/axis-viana Pousada Viana do Castelo, 4-star Atop the Monte de Santa Luzia, this is the first choice for many for the historical feel and the exceptional panoramic views. pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-viana
WHERE TO EAT Viana do Castelo is known for its fresh seafood (seriously, I had no words), traditional stews, and sweet pastries. Some of the musttry dishes include bacalhau com broa, bacalhau à moda de Viana do Castelo, arroz de sarrabulho, the delicious bolas de Berlim and the torta de Viana. Here are some places to try: Manuel Natario Bakery Home of the twice daily line-ups for freshly baked bolas de berlim, sold until they run out. A cool fact: if you happen to know of the Brazilian writer-poet, Jorge Amado (yep, Amado does mean ‘loved’), you might find it charming to know that he was once a local in Viana and a frequent customer of this donut shop. In fact, in his novel Showdown, Amado named a character Captain Natario after the owner with whom he shared friendship. 258 822 376 pastelariaconfeitariamanuelnatario.pt. Open till 19:00
Maria Petisca Super charming, in the town centre, and food that goes above and beyond to steal your heart. 258 409 546 mariapetisca.com O Pescador In the historical centre and delivering traditional taste for modern foodies and seafood lovers. 258 826 039 opescadorviana.com Tasquinha da Praça A local favourite down by the docks with great traditional Portuguese, seafood and the famous ‘francesinha’. 258 823 361 tasquinhadapraca.pt Casa Primavera A no frills family-owned and operated restaurant serving delicious (sea)food at very generous prices. 258 821 807 facebook.com/TabernaSoares Joanna's Wine Shop and Tapas Worth driving a few minutes from the city centre for their good wines, good snacks and good times. 968 522 947 joannaswinetapas.pt
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Making Viana more famous
FeelViana Sport Hotel, 4-star This highly-rated resort with in-room jacuzzis is the most sustainable hotel in the area. Think ‘ecological concept’ – wooden bungalows in a forest setting while still close to beaches. feelviana.com
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steer clear of massive crowds, the Costume Museum in the heart of the city is a respectable alternative. Housing an incredible collection of traditional costumes, embroideries and gold jewellery, the museum’s display has enough to keep you busy for a couple of hours. Their Vault Collection downstairs, featuring the famous wearable heart of gold and other Arab-technique-inspired filigree jewellery, is absolutely gorgeous.
ALGARVE P L U S
The Museu do Traje If you prefer to
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WHERE TO STAY
