Where Paris magazine, October 2017 by Where Paris

OC T OBE R 2 0 17

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 285

Playing in Paris

DISCOVER THE SEASON’S HOTTEST JEWELS FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

October PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The guide 22 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

Discovering the World of Cognac

52 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

Go on a tour of the Cognac region and visit the world-famous cognac houses

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

An Autumn of Art

68 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants

A cultural visit of the month’s most important art fairs and exhibitions

82 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and coolest bars 92 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings

OC T OBE R 2 0 17 Issue N o 285

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

Playing in Paris

DISCOVER THE SEASON’S HOTTEST JEWELS FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

ON THE COVER

Turn to page 32 for our Excess Gaming photo shoot Photo © Marc Martinon

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42

This month marks the season of the arts and the French capital is not welcoming one major event but two fairs that avid art collectors will not want to miss. FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, will be held for the 44th time and will bring together 192 different galleries from 29 countries. Meanwhile, the Art Elysées - Art & Design show will be bringing together 70 French and international galleries. The City of Light will also be hosting major art exhibitions including Gauguin the Alchemist at the Grand Palais and Pop Art, Icons that Matter at Musée Maillol, which explores the world of pop art. In this issue we also take you on a tour of the Cognac region, taking you from one world-famous cognac house to another as well as introducing you to Parisian spots where you can taste the famous drink.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

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Visiting Paris is of course never complete without a little, or a lot, of shopping. In our Excess Gaming photo shoot we bring you the key pieces from our favourite jewellery and timepiece houses to make sure you win every fashion game.

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For our readers who want to eat their way through the city our Dining pages are bursting with excellent tables to sample, covering your every meal from breakfast to lunch and from high tea to dinner time. Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section you will find a round up of musicals, sexy cabarets and some great bars for original cocktails, we even bring Oktoberfest to you here in the French capital.

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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: Octobre 2017. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito Lombarda S.p.a

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October

HOT DATES Discover the best of October in Paris

Sweet Celebrations OCTOBER 1 Today is your last chance to gobble up Christophe Adam’s mini versions of his delicious eclairs that he created for his Mini Eclairs Weekend. Make your way to his Marais shop for a selection of 30 different eclairs made just for this event. 14 rue Pavée (4th), 01 42 77 85 11

10 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

PARIS THIS MONTH

Barbie Girl OCTOBER 21 AND 22 Barbie gets a makeover thanks to 15 fashion houses who have all given the iconic doll a new look in celebration of Barbie and Ken’s new shapes and sizes. Dressed to impress, the dolls will be showcased at a private space with ateliers organised for children. Free entry. Hotel Particular Le Molière 40 rue de Richelieu (1st)

Barbie © monaawad; Didier Ludot Chanel 1960; Paris Roller Marathon DR

An Haute Couture Auction OCTOBER 3

Blades of Glory OCTOBER 15 Take part in the first Paris Rollers Marathon and rollerblade your way through the city. Go solo or relay with a partner and show off your blading talents while taking in its monuments in a novel, and competing, way. Registrations close on the 8th of October so make sure you go to www.parisrollersmarathon.com to reserve your spot.

He amassed a very fashionable collection of little black dresses and now Didier Ludot is putting his haute couture collection under Sotheby’s hammer. Collectors can bid on a 1960 Chanel creation, a Christian Dior cocktail dress dating back to 1950 and a 1938 dress designed by Jeanne Lanvin. 76 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 05 53 05

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs OCTOBER 1-2 SALON ZEN Well-being, healing careers and personal development for one and all are to be found here. Conferences revolving around a return to authenticity and the natural, workshops and classes in various Zen methods are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm. www.salon-zen.fr Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th), 01 45 56 09 09

TUTU Cute FROM OCTOBER 11 Discover a new take of Swan Lake at Bobino where the TUTU musical will be swanning onto its stage to perform quite the original dance numbers. Turn to our Entertainment section for more information.

OCTOBER 1-8 SALON DES VÉHICULES DE LOISIRS Since 1966, this has been the rendezvous for the very best in recreational vehicles from camping cars to luxurious mobile homes. Exhibitors come from all over Europe and the United States to present the latest innovations in leisure vehicles, equipment and accessories. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salon-vehicules-loisirs.com Parc des Expositions du Bourget, Le Bourget

This show brings together over 100 European book dealers offering a wide selection of printed materials. There is a plethora of books, magazines, letters, old magazines and newspapers along with postcards, poster drawings and vintage photographs. The show is open from 11am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 22nd. www.bibliomania.paris Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)

OCTOBER 27-29 PARIS COMIC CON

La Nuit Blanche OCTOBER 7 Take in the City of Light as it shines brighter tonight, guiding you through the annual La Nuit Blanche. Free entertainment is organised throughout the French capital, inviting locals and visitors to discover exhibitions and street art from dusk till dawn. The late night event draws out crowds of all ages to discover various genres of art, concerts and is just a simple invitation to not sleep and to discover Paris by night. Head to www.facebook.com/NBParis, La Nuit Blanche’s official Facebook page for up-to-date information and programme.

PFW THROUGH TO OCTOBER 3 The most important week in the fashion calendar, Paris Fashion Week will see Céline, Christian Dior and Lanvin showcase their spring/summer 2018 collections. Enjoy the à la mode vibe that thinly veils the fashion capital of the world. 12 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

The pop culture show is back in Paris once again this year. The event showcases comics, films, television, toys and video games and features special guests. Fans can meet up with creators, artists and actors. This year there is a special tribute to the Justice League of D.C. comics. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 29th. www.comic-con-paris.com Grande Halle de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th)

OCTOBER 28-31 SALON DU CHOCOLAT A heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate are all on the agenda. The show welcomes cocoa producers from around the world and is holding the International Cocoa Awards 2017 to award the cocoa producing regions and the planters. There is a section of the show, Chocolat Junior, devoted to children with workshops and adventure-filled games. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

Tutu - Chicos Mambo © Michel Cavalca; Nuit Blanche 2016, Conciergerie, Installation de l’artiste Pierre Delavie, “Cote 15,28 l’amour déborde”

OCTOBER 18-22 BIBLIOMANIA

Roy Lichtenstein, Girl in Window (Study for World’s Fair Mural), 1963. © Whitney Museum, N.Y. © Estate of Roy Lichtenstein. New York / Adagp, Paris, 2017

An Autumn of Art By Patricia Valicenti

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Paul Gauguin (1848-1903), Dans les vagues, 1889, Cleveland, The Cleveland Museum of Art, don de Mr et Mme William Powell Jones © The Cleveland Museum of Art

Exhibitions

Roy Lichtenstein’s Girl in Window (opposite page) and Paul Gauguin’s Dans les vagues

utumn in Paris brings in a superb season of art through exhibitions, fairs, in galleries and in the great outdoors.

An Atmospheric Art Elysées A festive world of modern, contemporary art, design and urban art unfolds in the midst of October in Paris when the autumn art fair, Art Elysées - Art & Design, held for the 11th time this year, offers a dynamic stage for art and design during the French capital’s autumn art fête. Four ephemeral pavilions emerge on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées each housing a distinct section of the fair: modern art, contemporary art, design and urban art. The event offers an opportunity for art dealers and collectors to intermingle, but, too, an opportunity for the public at large to discover fine art galleries and to engage with a full range of art works in diverse mediums. The exhibitors at Art Elysées - Art & Design are chosen by a committee that ensures the authenticity, quality and general interest of the works presented. This year the contemporary and modern art sections showcase some 70 galleries from France and abroad while the design section has been enlarged to bring together some 15 galleries featuring 20th and 21st century pieces from Scandinavia, Finland, France and Italy. Meanwhile, the

Carré Rive Gauche, a group of galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements, is participating in the show, presenting a selection of pieces from 15 of the galleries in the group. Each year Art Elysées hosts exhibitions within the pavilions and this year the art pavilion will be presenting an exhibition by Fred Kleinberg entitled Odysée and which explores human migration. Meanwhile, the public can discover two exhibitions in the heart of the design pavilion. One show, curated by Jean-François Declercq, the founder of the Belgian art centre, Atelier Jespers, puts the spotlight on several generations of Belgian designers. A second show is devoted to design of the second half of the 20th century and presents objects from the landmark industrial design collection of Jean-Bernard Hebey. Art Elysées in conjunction with the magazine ArtsHebdoMédias, is presenting in the 8e Avenue pavilion, which is devoted to urban art, a discovery of Mobile Art with SemanticPaint, applicative works and artistic QR codes. A Fine FIAC The FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, being held for the 44th time this year, brings together beneath the captivating glass cupola of the Grand Palais some 192 leading galleries from 29 countries showcasing modern and contemporary art. Design is also returning to the FIAC this year with five internationally known galleries showcasing 20th and 21st century design. Galeries Lafayette, the FIAC’s official partner, is hosting the Secteur Lafayette, w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

Niki de Saint-Phalle’ Daddy (above) and André Derain’s Le Pecq (below). Opposite page (top to bottom): David Hockney’s A Bigger Splash and Henry Taylor’s It’s H. I .M.

a space of 10 young galleries featuring emerging talents, offering a certain visibility to young creators during this major art rendezvous. The On Site part of the show located inside the Petit Palais across the way and on the Avenue President Wilson presents sculptures and installation works while performance art takes centre stage in the Palais de la Découverte with the Parades for FIAC part of the fair. This year the FIAC has given carte blanche to the American artist Oscar Tuazon who will exhibit a work on the Place Vendôme underscoring the problem of water shortages in collaboration with the Chantal Crousel gallery and in partnership with the Swiss Mirabaud financial institution. Other venues taking part in the fair include the Tuileries Garden with installation works and the Musée National Eugène Delacroix in conjunction with the Louvre. Exhilarating Exhibitions With exhibitions devoted to the great masters like André Derain, Paul Gauguin and David Hockney, the city’s museums are offering a rich programme featuring modern and contemporary art throughout the month. The Centre Pompidou, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, is presenting the show André Derain, 1904-1914. The Radical Decade, which through a host of works, takes a fresh look at this major 20th century artist tracing the various stages of his career before the First World War when he was involved in the most radical of avantgarde movements. Also on at the Centre Pompidou is a spectacular retrospective devoted to the contemporary artist David Hockney being held in collaboration with London’s Tate Britain and the Metropolitan Museum of New York. The exhibition celebrates the artist’s 80th birthday through more than 160 works in diverse mediums including his most iconic paintings like the spectacular swimming pools. Meanwhile, the Grand Palais is hosting a superb show devoted to Paul 20 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Gauguin. Entitled Gauguin the Alchemist, the show offers an exceptional journey into the fascinating creative process of this major artist. This all-encompassing show brings together over 200 of his works in a host of mediums including 53 paintings, 28 ceramics, 44 sculptures and wooden objects, 69 engravings and 35 drawings. And over at the Musée Maillol, an immersion into the world of Pop Art awaits with the show Pop Art, Icons that Matter with the works emanating from the collection of the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. The Whitney is an anthological collection of American art of the 20th century and it possesses masterpieces of Pop Art in the mediums of paintings, sculptures and impressions. The show brings together some 60 works by, among others, Robert Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns, the initiators of the movement, Andy Warhol, Jim Dine and Roy Lichtenstein.

Art pavillion at Art Elysées. Niki de Saint-Phalle. Daddy. Courtesy David Guiraud; André Derain, Le Pecq, hiver 1904-1905 © Adagp, Paris 2017 Huile sur toile, 81 x 116 cm Cincinnati Art Museum, Museum Purchase : Bequest of Mary E. Johnston, by exchange, and The Edwin and Virginia Irwin Memorial

Exhibitions

ADDRESS BOOK ART ELYSEES - ART & DESIGN From October 19th through to the 23rd, from 11am to 8pm, closing at 6pm on the 23rd Avenue des Champs-Elysées from the Place Clemenceau to the Place de la Concorde (8th)

A Bigger Splash, 1967 © David Hockney, Collection Tate, London; At the FIAC. Henry Taylor. It’s H. I .M. 2012 © Henry Taylor. Work exhibited by Blum & Poe

CENTRE POMPIDOU André Derain - From October 4th through to January 29th David Hockney - Through to October 23rd Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33 FIAC From October 19th through to October 22nd, from 10am to 8pm, until 7pm on the 21st and the 22nd Grand Palais, 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) Petit Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th) Jardin des Tuileries, 1 Place de la Concorde (1st) Palais de la Découverte, Ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt Musée National Eugène Delacroix, 6 rue de Furstenberg (6th) Place Vendôme (1st) GRAND PALAIS Paul Gauguin exhibition showing from October 11th through to January 22nd 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 MUSEE MAILLOL Pop Art, Icons that Matter exhibition showing through to January 21st 61 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 42 22 57 25

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Discovering

the World of Cognac By Patricia Valicenti

the soil on the grapes, enjoyed a unique quality and taste, one that was found nowhere else. The first casks left for the United States in the 18th century and today the brandy known as cognac is shipped to 160 countries around the world.

Rolling vineyards, manor houses and castles, charming provincial towns like Jarnac, Segnozac and Cognac, which gives its name to one of the world’s most celebrated spirits emerge some 465 kilometres south of Paris. The geographically limited region of Cognac extends along the banks of the Charente River, which Henri IV of France called the most beautiful stream in his kingdom. It was in the 17th century that towns in the Cognac region began producing the world-class brandy it is known for today. The spirits of the region, perhaps because of the proximity to the sea, and perhaps because of the effects of lime in

Cognac received its AOC, the French Appellation of Controlled Origin in 1936, meaning that its quality is controlled by strict and permanent controls. It can only be distilled from grapes grown mainly in the Charente and CharenteMaritime regions as well as a few towns in the Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres. There are six geographical divisions within these regions and six corresponding grades of cognac ranging from the Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. Only the first two grades, regarded as the best, go into the making of Grande Fine Champagne. This

14 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

is traditionally ordered up as a “fine” in a café. Cognac is distilled from white wine of the Ugni Blanc grape variety with to a much lesser extent the Colombard and Folle Blanche varieties. The distillation takes place once the fermentation of the wine is finished at the end of the year. Cognac undergoes a double distillation in the copper pot stills, known as Charente stills. Once the cognac to be has been double distilled it is placed into oak casks, which enhance its colour and flavour. Cognac is a blend and therein is found one of its secrets. Several months before bottling, the individual firm’s tasters and cellar masters choose the brandies (the eaux-de-vie) to be assembled together, but that is only part of the cellar master’s work whose craft is akin to that of a

iStockphoto 2017 © Tammy Fullum

he good earth of France has managed to work its gastronomic magic on just about everything and cognac, a unique brandy, is no exception. And while all cognacs are brandies, not all brandies are cognacs.

Cognac

Clockwise from top left: The 12th century crypt at Tesseron where the eaux-de-vie are aged in old oak casks; Distilling cognac at the house of Courvoisier; Vineyards supplying Rémy Martin

goldsmith. The cellar master will regularly check on the aging process, deciding to transfer the eaux-de-vie to oak vats or to add distilled water to reduce the alcohol content.

Vineyards supplying Rémy Martin Photo © E. Rémy Martin & Co / Stephane Charbeau

World famous names emerge on the cognac landscape in and around Cognac and the neighbouring towns and countryside. Entering a house is a journey into another world, a burnished world, surrounded by casks of ages. Founded in 1809 by Louis Gallois and Emmanuel Courvoiser as a wine and spirits business based in Bercy, then outside of Paris, the house of Courvoisier remains indelibly linked to 19th century France. Napoleon Bonaparte would visit the trade in 1811 and decided to give his artillery troops a ration of cognac to boost morale. The founders’ sons Félix Courvoisier and Jules Gallois would move the business to Jarnac to exercise more control over the quality of cognac and created the company Courvoiser in 1843. Today, the house of Courvoisier still lies on the Charente River in the sleepy town of Jarnac. A mythical name in the world of cognac, the house was the official supplier to the court of Napoleon III and Courvoisier was served at the dinner at the Eiffel Tower for the structure’s inauguration in 1889 where it was enjoyed by guests that included Buffalo Bill and Thomas Edison and today it continues to grace tables the world over. Cognacs of exception are assembled at Courvoiser, of note its Napoleon cognac made with finely aged brandies, the youngest of which has been in the oak casks for 20 years. The Essence de Courvoisier is assembled from over 100 rare brandies, giving the spirit a golden amber colour and a delicate taste bringing to mind liquorice. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

Cognac

A Courvoisier cognac cocktail (above) and the Bar Kléber at the Peninsula Paris (below)

Back in the 19th century Abel Tesseron acquired a property in Châteauneuf-sur-Charente to house his passion for collecting rare and priceless cognacs before going on to making and ageing his own eaux-de-vie and cognacs. In 1905 he founded the Maison Abel Tesseron and adopted his policy of building up stocks of eaux-de-vie, which he conserved in the 12th century crypt of his property. His son Guy joined him in 1940 and together they perfected their art of ageing cognacs, but it wasn’t until the early years of 2000 that these cognacs emerged to a small circle of connoisseurs outside of the Cognac region, when Guy Tesseron’s children, Alfred and Gérard, embodying the third generation, began to set down the foundations for their own brand, Tesseron Cognac to begin selling, commercially, bottlings from their collections. Today, the president, Alfred, and his niece Mélanie Tesseron perpetuate the family tradition offering unique and carefully composed elixirs assembled by cellar master Romain Martial. The house’s line of very top shelf cognacs called XO and Beyond is brought out in very limited quantities. 16 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Cognac in Paris THE BAUDELAIRE BAR AT THE BURGUNDY HOTEL 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12 CAVES AUGE 116 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 22 16 97 LMDW FINE SPIRITS 6 Carrefour de l’Odéon (6th), 01 46 34 70 20 LAVINIA 3-5 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01 42 97 20 20 LE BAR KLEBER AT THE THE PENINSULA PARIS 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01 58 12 67 78

For visiting Cognac, the region and the cognac- producing houses COGNAC TOURIST OFFICE www.tourism-cognac.com 05 45 82 10 71 LES ETAPES DU COGNAC www.cognacetapes.com 05 45 36 47 35

The Bar Kléber at the Peninsula Paris Photo © Peninsula Paris

A wine grower founded the house of Rémy Martin in 1724 and it has been a family run business for nearly 300 years headed up by two families, Rémy Martin and Hériard Dubreuil. The house, headquartered in Cognac, elaborates its elixirs from the grapes that come from the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne vineyards and continues to distil all of its cognacs on the lees in small copper stills. In the 1960s André Hériard Dubreuil established what is today called the Alliance Fine Champagne, an equitable and long-lasting partnership with some 900 winegrowers. The house’s emblem, a centaur, a symbol chosen by Paul Emile Rémy Martin in 1870, is known throughout the world and it was also Paul Emile who created the famous Louis XIII cognac, regarded as the king of cognacs, produced by the house. Today, Baptiste Loiseau carries on the sacred tradition of cellar master at the house checking the casks, tasting and blending the eaux-de-vie. The house of Rémy Martin has also received the prestigious Living Heritage Label.

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Tasting cognac at Hennessy Photo © Jeff Burton

The House of Hennessy: A Journey

ichard Hennessy, an Irish officer in the service of the king of France, founded the venerable house of the same name in 1765 and it was one of the first houses to export to the United States with the first recorded sale in New York in 1794. Today, through Les Visites Hennessy you can explore the world of Hennessy guided by experts who take visitors on a backstage tour to learn about the complex and mysterious world of the cognac-making process while offering a look at the people behind it. Visitors can plunge into the world of eight generations of the Hennessy family and the Fillioux family, the house’s master blenders. The house is found on both banks of the Charente River in Cognac for the ageing cellar storehouses sit on the banks of the Charente River in Cognac across from the house’ s headquarters on the opposite bank. The tours are designed around crossings of the Charente in a solar-powered boat with the journey between the two river banks evoking the journeys once made on the river by barges carrying the barrels of cognac to sea ports. The tour starts off with a visit to the Pavilions Cellar with a contemporary design by the Aimko design agency incorporating noble and sustainable materials like wood, glass and copper, and it is here that the 250-year-old history of the house and the Hennessy family can be explored. In an ageing cellar storehouse, filled with

oak casks, visitors are taken into the heart of the eau-de-vie or brandy making process. The tour winds up with a tasting workshop in which the house’s experts explain the different steps in cognac production and visitors learn the theory and practice of tasting like a professional as they taste. The Hennessy Signature tours are limited to 25 people and are available all year round with or without a reservation. In addition to the 80-minute Hennessy Signature visit three tours adding special features to the Signature tour can be reserved. The Hennessy X.O. Symbole visit offers an insight into Hennessy X.O., one of the house’s most iconic products. Hennessy Exception is an exceptional tasting of the house’s precious cognacs in a private salon combined with a tour of the Paradis cellar where the house’s oldest eaux-de-vie are stored. The à la carte tour features a private guide and a visit to the house’s exceptional locations that are usually closed to the public and winds up with a tasting session in a private room. The latter two tours need to be reserved in advance. HENNESSY 8 rue de la Richonne, 16100 Cognac, 05 45 35 06 44 For online ticketing visit lesvisites.hennessy.com

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Justine wears Dior Mini D de Dior watch and Pré Catelan rings Mellerio dits Meller Giardino ring Alex wears Audemars Piguet watch Clementoni Virtual Reality Eiffel Tower puzzle Turn to page 32 for more of our Excess Gaming photo shoot

22 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Photo © Marc Martinon

SHOPPING

Jewellery

Birds of a Feather… … Stick together and at Gas Bijoux this season the feathers are colourful, dainty and carefully handled by the talented artisans in the house’s atelier in Marseille. Gas Bijoux, an Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company), has drawn inspiration from an Italian voyage taking its collection from Florence to Verona with a quick stopover in Sicily where the beautiful Italian women ooze femininity bringing you vibrantly coloured earrings to adorn your lobes and bring to your look an air of chic playfulness. Gas Bijoux Boutique 44 rue Etienne Marcel (2nd), 01 45 08 49 46

Statement Accessories Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest autumn/winter collection takes inspiration from the 20s and 30s when the art of cabinet-making and mineral processing gave life to precious artefacts. Taking its name from a mineral, the Malachite collection includes pieces that glow with a myriad of green offsetting the carving appearance of the jewellery. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51

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Shopping SHOPPING For Her Her For advertorial

The bags that make you unique Couture handbags by Stéphanie Césaire. Structured like architectural masterpieces, cut like couture creations, Stéphanie Césaire’s bags are completed in splendid leathers by talented artisans in the best traditions of French luxury. The designer puts forward her bags, alluring like dresses, in her boutique full of flair and character. Creative and timeless shapes are available in limited editions. Césaire 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01 42 97 43 43 www.stephaniecesaire.com (See Luxury Map “Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal”)

Haute Bags

Vintage Fashion

Turn heads in your little black dress with one of Verbreuil’s precious leather bags. The French house prides itself in offering its elite client list only handmade bags that not only showcase a rare savoir-faire but also original designs. The house’s iconic bag, La Gare, is an example of the craftsmanship that goes into making haute leatherwear. Each bag is made by the same artisan from start to finish with meticulous attention paid to every detail from the rounded crocodile handle to the way it opens in a fan-like way. Available in a number of colours, including soft sorbet pink, La Gare is a striking accessory to complete any look, day and night.

Pre-loved fashion finds are elegantly found at Miss Griffes, a vintage boutique located in the luxurious Golden Triangle of the French capital. Pieces from French fashion houses including Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent sit with pieces from Italian fashion houses including Armani and Prada, waiting to be rediscovered by fashionistas looking to add a vintage touch to their contemporary wardrobe. The boutique is open on weekdays only, from 1 to 7pm and upon appointment.

Verbreuil Boutique 18bis rue Saint Roch (1st), 01 76 53 97 48

Miss Griffes Boutique 19 rue de Penthièvre (8th), 01 42 65 10 00

24 R EE PA 24 WWHHEER PaRrI Si S I i OOCCTO TOBBEERr 2017 2017

SHOPPING

For Him

A Time Machine Classic, precision watchmaking is embodied in A.Lange & Söhne’s Tourbograph Perpetual, the fifth masterpiece timepiece in the house’s Pour le Mérite series. The watch combines five complications, the fuséeand-chain transmission with a tourbillon, a chronograph, a rattrapante function and a perpetual calendar, making for a peerless timepiece. The fusée-and-chain transmission is one of the most effective complications for increasing the rate accuracy of a mechanical watch. The watch is housed in a stately platinum case with a diameter of 43 millimetres while the dial is outfitted with Arabic numerals, blued steel hands for the time and rhodiumed gold hands for the calendar. Thermally blued screws, screwed gold chatons, bridges and plates made of untreated German silver and decorated with Glashütte ribbing and perlage round out the watch’s features. The Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite, a reference to the Prussian order conferred for exceptional scientific merit, has been brought out in a limited edition of 50 watches. - P.V. A.Lange & Söhne Boutique 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01 42 65 68 71

Comfort for Millennials Tommy Hilfiger has given way to Citadium with the multi-brand store taking over the American designer’s boutique on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées. The prime location gives the streetwear store a very desirable address to go perfectly with its very desirable range of millennial fashion. Sprawled over three floors, Citadium offers millennial males a floor dedicated to them, and only them, with brands such as Carrhatt, Adidas and Human with Attitude making the cut and being showcased in the street art décor of the store. Of course any millennial will not be worth his salt in owning his “I’m ironically wearing affordable-looking expensive clothes” look without the trademark sneaker option for footwear, and with that in mind the third floor awaits with its entirety dedicated to the comfortable footwear with flashbacks to the 80s that millennials love to reference with Nike, Reebok and Converse only some of the names helping the cool hipsters complete their “everything old is new again” cool look. Citadium 65 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 75 42 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

SHOPPING For Him

Casual Cool 2

5 9

1 & 5 Eden Park, 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01 43 25 02 25 2 & 7 Oliver Spencer, available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 82 00 3 Uniqlo x JW Anderson, available at Uniqlo, 17 rue Scribe (9th), 01 58 18 30 55 4 & 6 Balibaris, available at Le Bon Marché 8 Lanvin, 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 44 71 31 25 9 Bobbies, 79 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 73 75 65 95

26 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

SHOPPING Spas

A Moment to Relax In the recently renovated Relais Christine hotel is where you will find one of the Left Bank’s most relaxing spas, The Guerlain Spa. Under vaulted ceilings and exposed stone walls you are invited into a tranquil setting to experience one of the spa treatments, which include the Deep Muscular Massage and the Complete Facial, which uses the French house’s signature products, leaving you relaxed, refreshed and with a je ne sais quoi glow. The spa boasts individual treatment rooms as well as duo rooms suited to couples on a romantic weekend in the City of Love or for friends enjoying a girl’s trip. The Guerlain Spa Relais Christine 3 rue Christine (6th), 01 40 51 60 80

Department store Printemps’s recently reopened beauty space has set the benchmark quite high with not only offering shoppers a plethora of beauty products, a hairdresser and nail salon, the new space also boasts a spa. The Nuxe Spa is open daily during the opening hours of the department store and has put in place a treatment menu, which includes a 30-minute bespoke massage and express scalp massage to get you relaxed after a day of intensive shopping or to revitalise you between shopping finds. Reservations are required, except for the express treatments.

Gentlemen, sit back and take time out to enjoy a moment of complete relaxation at Cercle Delacre, a space dedicated to you and only you. The spa, which opened its doors in 1990, boasts a private club atmosphere and features a restaurant and both a steam room and sauna to decompress after a day of long meetings or non-stop sightseeing. Sprawled over two floors, the spa includes a barbershop and treatment rooms for facials and massages ranging from anti-aging facials to deep tissue massages.

Nuxe Spa 61 rue Caumartin (9th), 01 42 82 52 52

Cercle Delacre 17 ave George V (8th), 01 40 70 99 70

28 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Nuxe Printemps © Romain Ricard. Cercle Delacre DR

A Massage Break

Reserved: Gentlemen Only

Where Paris Promotion

LE BHV MARAIS

THE PARISIAnS’ FAVoRITE DEPARTMEnT SToRE Boasting a 160 year history, LE BHV MARAIS is a Parisian institution, housing over 2,000 brands and a bespoke set of tourist packages, straight from the heart of the Marais

ounded in 1856 and ideally located at the entrance of Marais district, the flagship LE BHV MARAIS finds itself amidst the capital’s most famous tourist destinations; the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Pompidou centre included. An area entirely unique in the world, the Marais is an epicenter of trends, uniting history, nightlife and shopping in one distinctive location.

This year, LE BHV MARAIS is opening its doors to this historical quarter, giving you a front row seat! The store has created its own tailor made tourist packages that take place in the Marais, showing you the most exclusive cultural, arty and foodie spots to be seen. Round off the experience with a luxurious shopping spree in the department store and

a well deserved drink on the rooftop bar of Le Perchoir Marais.

Book your bespoke Marais package via Expedia Or contact us on: booking@bhv.fr The Parisians’ favorite department store, LE BHV MARAIS welcomes 70,000 visitors on average each day. An immense space, this multispecialist store houses over 2,000 brands within its 45,000m2 surface area, catering to any kind of lifestyle needs, be they fashion, home, beauty, DIY or food. You name it! A stone’s throw away on the Rue des Archives, 5 luxury boutiques have been opened to offer a new range of high-end items. Come and discover the spacious stores of Givenchy, Gucci, Valentino, Fendi and Moncler.

A hub of activity and creativity, LE BHV MARAIS presents countless pop ups and collaborations throughout the year, putting new designers and brands in the spotlight. Exclusive international previews, a cutting edge press area and passionate sales experts are forever on hand to make your experience truly one of a kind. Feeling peckish? LE BHV MARAIS will tickle your tastebuds with some of the most delicious gourmet names, such as L’Eclair de Génie, L’Artisan de la Truffe, Café Marlette and Big Fernand. Better yet, the store enjoys one of the best views in the city, direct from its rooftop. Want to see it up close? Come and discover Le Perchoir Marais, the rooftop bar with a panoramic view that needs to be seen to be believed.

CELEBRATE THE GOLDEN WEEK AT LE BHV MARAIS From 1st till 15th October 2017, a special offer is waiting for all the Asian visitors. Ask for more information at our welcome desk (ground floor, main store). LE BHV MARAIS - 52 rue de Rivoli –75004 Paris Tel: 00 (33) 977 401 400 - Open Monday-Saturday: 9.30am – 8pm; on Sunday: 11am – 7pm www.lebhvmarais.fr w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 29

SHOPPING

For Children

Rock Princess

7 6

9 5

1 Tartine et Chocolat x Balzac, available at Tartine et Chocolat, 266 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01 45 56 10 45 2 Little Marc Jacobs, available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 3 DKNY, available at Kids Around Boutique, 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 05 19 50 4 Molo, available at Galeries Lafayette 5 Chloé, available at Marina Boutique, 82 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 96 21 6 Zadig & Voltaire, 22 rue de Turenne (4th), 01 42 71 81 12 7 & 9 Karl Lagerfeld Kids, available at Kids Around Boutique 8 Disney x Pandora, available at Pandora, 132 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 42 22 31 44

ADVERTORIAL

Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th (M° Félix Faure) Tel: 01 45 58 17 44 30 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

SHOPPING Fashion

Excess Gaming Photographer: Marc Martinon Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Tao Douay Hand Make-Up Artist: Katy Denniel Models: Justine S from DMA and Alex V from VIP Models Thanks to Le Burgundy Paris Hotel

Justine wears Piaget Limelight Couture Précieuse ring and Limelight Secrets and Lights cuff bracelet Dubail ruby and diamond rings and Four Butterflies diamond ring Alex wears Franck Muller limited edition Dubail watch Messika Joaillerie black titanium and diamond bracelet Lanvin chessboard 32 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

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Justine wears Chanel Joaillerie Lion Pepites bracelet Longines Equestrian Etrier watch Dior Mini D de Dior watch Dubail Four Butterflies diamond ring, and sapphire and diamond ring Alex wears Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 watch Messika titanium and diamond bracelets

34â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Essius shirt Parmigiani Fleurier Toric ChronomĂ¨tre watch Sony mobile phone S.T. Dupont lighter w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. comâ&#x20AC;&#x2021; 35

Justine wears Vacheron Constantin limited edition Dubail watch Redline bracelets Alex wears Chanel Premiere watch Chanel Joaillerie Coco Crush rings, bracelet and cuff bracelet

36â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Piaget Limelight Secrets and Lights cuff bracelet, white gold and diamond watch, Limelight Couture PrĂŠcieuse rings and Limelight Party ring Dubail Four Butterflies diamond ring

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Justine wears Breguet Reine de Naples watch Dior Joaillerie Pré Catelan ring Piaget Limelight Cocktail ring Alex wears Breguet Classique watch Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon watch 38 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Justine wears Gucci Plexiglass Rainbow watch and Running rings and bracelet Richard Mille RM 07-01 Ladies watch Alex wears Richard Mille RM 35-02 Rafael Nadal watch w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. comâ&#x20AC;&#x2021; 39

Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories

children’s clothing & toys

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

BeAuty spAs & products

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Abriza - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.43.87.74.69. M° Opera Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

Books & music

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CerCLe DeLaCre

| Beauty Spas & Products

40 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),

clothing: men & Women Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine

LauLhère

| Accessories

Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

depArtment stores & shopping centres

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),

09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

eye WeAr

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

home

Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12.

M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

shopping

Address Book

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),

JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra

Yohji Yamamoto

01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1 ), st

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine

| Clothing: Men & Women

01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

lingerie

luggAge And BAgs

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

buCherer

| Jewellery & Watches w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 41

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT IE

AVE

SNI

NORÉ

OÉT

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

BOUR

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

ATHU

DES M

ES MA T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D S

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling E SÈZE

•Anne Fontaine

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

Marella

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ES MA

•

• Eres • Swarovski

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UC

APUC

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch Basler • INE

DES C

RUE

Place Vendôme

INES

EVA

IG LI O N E

• Burma Ciro pour

RUE D

NORÉ

RINS

Église de la Madeleine

R U E CA ST

RUE TRONCHET

42 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Lauren • Lancaster Kenzo •Kate spade • • Max Mara

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

MADELEINE

• •• •Wempe Ralph•

ULE

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

RUE DE RIVOLI

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: +33(1) 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

UÉP

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

•

A reference for more than 137 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

ROQ

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Yohji Yamamoto

CROCKETT & JONES

•

CONCORDE

•

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

SHOP STOP

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla

•• •

Lanvin

•

Place de la Concorde

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

SSM

RUE

RUE DE SURÈNE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

’

O AST

BLV

INE

SHOP STOP

MANN

ÉS

ÉR

ROQ

RUE

B AM

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent • Crockett Dandys • Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy UIER • Cartier • RUE PASQ Alessi Burberry Hermès • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

R D H A U SS

ESN

OÉT

RU E DE DU RA

ESN

B O U LE VA

MIR

IÈV

• Loriblu

NT-HO

IRO

E ED

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES

G SAI

M DE

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

E ED

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

Pierre Cardin

Gringoire Joaillier

•

WEMPE

OÉT

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

CIER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

PER

NUE

•

• Sothys

• Christie’s

MIROMESNIL RU

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

•

Antiquités

• Français O T • Gorky H P

LEI NE

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

RUE DE RIVOLI

• De Fursac

• Gresley

ivk

Acaba •

L’O

id •A •Q ier L nna u R e

• Kam’s

eli do t n

N VE

RUE RICHELIEU

■

•D

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

Pie r

•

Bonpoint IRO

RUE DU LOUVR E

Hartford

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

• •

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

•

Place des Victoires

’AB

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

0039 Italy

by Terry Xavier Lust

Aizea

Galerie Vivienne

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

RUE VIVIENNE

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • • re Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo

• • •

ÉR

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

’OP

44 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

CIN

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

L DE

•Cotélac

PALAIS ROYAL

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

Printemps du Louvre

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

•

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

•

• RedLine

Garland RUE DE LA PA IX

•Christian Dior •M.A.C

FreyWille

SHOP STOP

• Akillis

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

Vendôme

•Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat • Burma •Stuart Weitzman • Balenciaga

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

RUE S A IN T -H

Ami • Missoni• Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • La Prairie •

Carrousel du Louvre

Place

RUE S A IN T -H

•

A member of the Syndicat National des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités specialises in Napoleon III, Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque, Art Déco, Retro, signed jewellery and Russian pieces. After 30 years at the Louvre des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités opened its new gallery boutique in the 1st arrondissement in 2016.

•

Goyard • •Dubail Church’s• Paule Ka• TUILERIES Jack Russell

GORKY ANTIQUITÉS

IG LI ON E

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

18 rue Duphot - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 22 76 gorky@gorkyantiq.com www.gorkyantiq.com

•

Marella

Le Jacquard

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi• Parakian Paris •RU E

• Wempe • Vertu • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

Césaire

MADELEINE

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

Espace Cachemire

•

■

• Oliver Grant

•

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

LAULHÈRE

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

•

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

▼

Open from Monday to Saturday: 10am-7.30pm Sunday: 12:30pm-6:30pm 24 Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 35 81 www.gresley.fr

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

TUR T

Liquides • April 77

• DE

YM E

T RU E CH AR LO

RUE

TEMP

LE DU

TO NG E

VIEIL

RUE

RU E DE SA IN

RUE DE THORIGNY

CH AR LO T

RU E

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

EL LE R U E D EB

RUE DU TEMPLE

RU E DE LA

•

Mi-Mai •

PE RL E

RU E DU PA

LE DU

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

TEMP

RUE DU TEMPLE

Centre Pompidou

• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D Cologne French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• R Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Denicourt DE E Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire U R • •-CL • Saint James Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T APC Calais • S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Weekday• • Customellow • Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Musée National Bruno •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • • Le Mont Saint Michel Magnanni • La Fée Maraboutée RU E DE S 4 • FI LS • Consuelo Zoelly RUE SA

RC RO YA L

IN T -G IL

LES

VI GN É RU E SÉ

VIEIL

RUE PAY ENN E

RUE

LHE

▼

RUE PAVEE

DE TURENNE

S É V IG N

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch El Ganso

RUE DU TEMPLE

Place des Vosges

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d tyque Dip in Guerla

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford ➞ Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE Emile Lafaurie • DES FRAN Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • Chanel OIS • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • ■ RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker URGEOIS Muji • • •Mademoiselle •• •• ➞ Iro • Essentiel Jeanne Michael • • • • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston • • Eres Ekyog •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX ea y • t IZIPIZI i T err se • •Maje• • sm d P reu Bimba y Lola u Iris Cantabri e Devernois • C K Fr e Maison Chanel • • • • L Créa Concept Alain Mikli • L’Argenterie • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault R O SI ER • • • Heschung• S • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE El Ganso • DE JARENTE Cire Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• Trudon • K.Jacques • • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Ugg • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • Mode en Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • •Maje BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi Chevignon• • TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché MX • SAINT-PAUL • RIVOLI E • Finsbury RUE D • Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier • • IVOLI E DE R RUE

SHOP STOP

Gloss

56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

Nicolaï

•

ENN

Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man. Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

APC

TUR

EMILE LAFAURIE

UD RI ET TE

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

E E D

RU E DE S HA

White Bird • Bonton•

SHOP STOP

•

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

•

RUE PASTOURELLE

État Libre d'Orange Paul Smith

Le Slip Français

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

ENN UR E T E D

•

JLC Opticien

LOUIS QUATORZE

RU E DE PI CA

F IL L E

RD IE

N 13 Bonaparte Bellerose • OR• M

• Ron Dorff IE March La.B • • Mes Demoiselles • RU E DE BR ET AG NE Popelini •

M IN E

Empreintes

The Louis Quatorze and Castelbajac Paris Maisons have joined forces for a sunny and ecological collaboration. Monogrammed scarves, bags, kits exclusively for the occasion, available since September 25.

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

A IR E

RU E CH AR LO

•

ILL

RU E DE CA FF

AR EL LI

La Boutique Extraordinaire

•

RU E PE RR ÉE

ENN

RUE DU TEMPLE

E E D

Carreau du Temple ■ The Broken Arm

COM

CALV

UAR

THO

RUE

ETIT

S DU

DU P

DES

RUE

46 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

■

Mémorial de la Shoah

RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER

RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

ARLEM

AGNE

Village Saint Paul ■

•Pierre Boisset

Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

RUE DE LOBAU

Adresse : 46 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 4 Tel: +33 (0)1 43 56 04 99 M° Saint-Paul (line1) or Hôtel de Ville (lines 1&11) www.izipizi.com th

Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier

RUE CH

PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

IZIPIZI IZIPIZI is a brand of ready-to-wear trendy glasses. They offer everyone a classical and funny accessory, a basic must-have for reading, sun protection and screen protection. Soft and colorful glasses for adults, children and babies.

MIRON

OIS

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE

FRANÇ

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

HOTEL DE VILLE

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

E CEA

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

MA R

RUE

LLOT

AVE

NUE

Kenzo

OT UE EN

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

OIS 1 ER

FRAN Ç

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

EJ EA NG OU JO N

1ER

N AVE

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

• •M.A.C. •Furla • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

OÉT

• Chanel • J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver Château Euphorie

•Galerie 26 •Adidas • Banana

Republic

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or

AVEN

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

FRA

Grand Palais

Elysées Joaillerie

•

UE M

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

UE F

RAN

• Marionnaud Paris

ELT

KLIN

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

EVE

OOS

D.R

• Cartier

Montblanc

•

ALBERT NUE

AVE

IN NKL

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

COURS

48 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

NFÉRENCE

8 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 23 88 00 www.bymarie.com

•

RUE BALZAC

Armani Collezioni Corneliani PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Ellie • Dubail • Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier UE EN • • RUE P •Les Suites • AV Arije • IERRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi V R R E ON • Tea • Rolex Scabal • GEORG • Chaumet Dubail NUE • Beretta Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • • RUE MA • Oud Burma • Sicis • Franck RBEUF • •Tom FordRUE PI •Carvil ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE • RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR R • Vionnet É U MOI E M• • Smalto By Marie&Gas Bijoux LLE A Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Davidor • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN E MAR E Dior RUE D Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • Joseph• • Nina Ricci PSG • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont PORT DE LA CO

BY MARIE A Bohemian spirit awaits you all year long by the Champs-Elysées. The BY MARIE concept store proposes sunny ready-to-wear collections as well as rare jewelry selected by its founder, Marie Gas.

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

• Milady

C AR

•

SANO

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

E BAS

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

U EM AR CEA AV EN U

ALILÉ

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

ENU

RUE D

RUE G

IÉN E D’

D’IÉ

A EDL

Galerie-Musée Baccarat

FRI

■

D’IÉ

AHO

NUE

AVE

AC M

NUE AVE

RUE DE CHAI

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

DOUX

ALILÉ

SHOP STOP

ARABIAN OUD

O AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

RUE G Place des États-Unis

17 ave George V - Paris 8th M° George V www.cercledelacre.com

On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

CERCLE DELACRE

Arc de Triomphe

AVENUE KLÉBER

As a pioneer in men’s care, Delacre relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: Delacre is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

AV Marina • ENUE VIC Rinaldi TO

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

ATIG

NON

CERCLE DE SOINS POUR HOMME

Men are increasingly attentive to their well-being and appearance. As a pioneer in men’s care, DELACRE relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: DELACRE is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

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Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne and more... 68 rue du Bac - Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 58 10 www.jlcopticien.com

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

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In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

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At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

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The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Yves Saint Laurent in his studio, 1986 © DR

Yves Saint Laurent in his studio, 1986 (opposite page) 52 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Niki de Saint Phalle, Gwendolyn, 1966-1990, socle métallique de Jean Tinguely © André Morin, Courtesy NCAF et Galerie GP & N Vallois, Paris; Dress paying tribute to Piet Mondrian. Collection haute couture automne-hiver 1965 © Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris / Alexandre Guirkinger

Exhibitions

Shapely Nana The joyful and iconic works of Niki de Saint Phalle are taking centre stage in an exhibition entitled Belles! Belles! Belles! The Women of Niki de Saint Phalle, being held at the Galerie Georges-Philippe & Nathalie Vallois. A selection of some 20 works among her most emblematic of the 1960s and 1970s are on display. Her celebrated sculptural and sculpted Nanas underscore the innovative, feminine and avant-gardist aspects of her work. She created her first Nana in 1965 and already in the 1960s the artist denounced the conventional, clichéd representation of women. In her Nana works the woman’s body becomes emancipated transformed into womanly shapes that are exuberant, monumental, and powerful. Through to October 21st 33 & 36 rue de Seine (6th), 01 46 34 61 07

Yves Saint Laurent, the Museum The museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent is opening its doors this month on the premises of his former haute couture house. It will open up with a retrospective of some 50 of his designs alongside accessories, sketches, photographs and videos. The collection, which is owned by the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, enables visitors to see the entire creative process that went into designing a garment. Further contributing to the strength of the collection was Saint Laurent’s decision to keep a selection of prototypes, beginning in 1962, from each collection. These prototypes are the version of the model that he designed, executed in the ateliers according to his instructions and which was later shown on the runway. The prototype was conserved along with its matching accessories such as jewellery, shoes, gloves and hats. The collection comprises every haute couture collection that Yves Saint Laurent presented between 1962 and 2002. From October 3rd 5 ave Marceau (16th), 01 44 31 64 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 53

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Dream Worlds

MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 54 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

From October 3rd through to October 11th Mairie du 1er Arrondissement 4 place du Louvre (1st), 01 44 50 75 01 La Bouée © Boissegur

CHEN JIANG-HONG Untitled Oil on canvas, 150 x 150 cm

A large and colourful feline in a boat, crossing a desert of pink and purple sands and worlds on the shore where water holds sway, the paintings of Boissegur offer a journey into dream-like worlds filled with hidden messages and premonitions. Through the artist’s use of oil and multiple richly coloured pigments, skies and backgrounds seem endless in landscapes ranging from Brooklyn to the West Indies. Humans emerge early in the day in settings punctuated by red balloons or a red buoy. Boissegur’s styles range from the Surrealist to the Figurative to the Abstract with the works encompassing a palette ranging from ochre to golds, greens, and the colours of the dawn and red. The town hall of the first arrondissement of Paris is hosting a retrospective devoted to the artist.

Lucio

F o n ta n a

Concetto Spaziale, Attese, 1967 - Waterpaint on canvas, 73 x 60 cm

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 • paris@operagallery.com • operagallery.com NEW YORK· MIAMI · ASPEN· LONDON · PARIS· MONACO· GENEVA· DUBAI· BEIRUT· HONG KONG· SINGAPORE · SEOUL

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

An intriguing photographic dialogue between father and son is being played out at the Maison Européen de la Photographie featuring the pictures of Richard Bartholomew and his son Pablo Bartholomew. The former was a renowned art critic, writer and painter though the public at large did not know his photography. Upon his death in 1985 he left behind 17,000 negatives, intimate portraits of his family and friends. His son, Pablo is an awardwinning photographer who began taking pictures, of his friends, at the age of 15 after being expelled from school. The show, fittingly entitled Affinities, juxtaposes photographs by father and son that are striking by their similarities though they are separated in some cases by 25 years. The show offers a look at the cultural and intellectual life in India from the 1950s to the 1970s and reveals a unique portrait of Indian society. Through to October 15th 5/7 rue de Fourcy (4th), 01 44 78 75 00

A Famous Fair Now in its 114th year, the prestigious Salon d’Automne, since the early 20th century, has been a platform from which major artists and movements have emerged. The fair, an association of artists supported by the French Ministry of Culture and Communication, was a reaction to Academic Art, which held sway at the beginning of the 20th century, and the first show, in 1903, was organised by, among others Bonnard, Rouault and Matisse. This year the show, which is held on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, is presenting some 900 artists from 45 countries displaying works in a host of mediums including engravings, sculptures, paintings, drawings, digital art and environmental art. This year Jacques Villeglé, a major figure of the New Realist movement, is the event’s ambassador. A cultural programme of concerts, conferences, round tables, lectures and a fashion show round out the agenda. From October 12th through to October 15th Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, Champs-Elysées (8th) 56 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Richard Bartholomew, Jeram, Navina and a friend at a party, New Delhi, circa 1970 © The Estate of Richard Bartholomew; Alkaplan, Départ pour le chemin de Saint Jacques de Compostelle, SOCIETAIRE

From Father and Son

1UE1D0 S, EALER

ANTIQ RIES E L L A ART G OPS. AND SH

Between the Orsay Museum and the Louvre Museum, the Carré Rive Gauche, a neighbourhood rich in history! Take a unique trip through 7,000 years of decorative art history while revelling in the diversity and wealth of the works on display!

CARRÉ RIVE GAUCHE ANTIQUAIRES & GALERIES D’ART - PARIS VII

Rue du Bac, rue de Beaune, rue de Lille, rue Montalembert, rue des Saints-Pères, rue de l’Université, rue de Verneuil, quai Voltaire. Paris VI and VII. www.carrerivegauche.com

Avec le parrainage du ministère de la Culture et de la Communication

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

An Engaging Encounter The highly original, eclectic and unclassifiable works by the contemporary American artist Daniel Brush are being showcased in an exhibition being held in the exhibition space in the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, which is supported by the high jewellery house of Van Cleef & Arpels. Artist, historian and connoisseur of fairy tales, Brush creates sculptural art jewels, paintings, sculptures, objects and drawings in his studio in Manhattan working with a variety of materials ranging from gold to steel, aluminium, paper and ink. He draws his inspiration from diverse sources like jazz, Japanese Noh theatre and Pre-Columbian art. Entitled Cuffs and Necks, the show brings together his sculptural cuff bracelets, dog collar necklaces, paintings, drawings and art objects. From October 13th through to October 31st From Monday to Saturday, 2pm to 7pm 31 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 01 70 70 36 00

The Caillebotte family began to live in Yerres, a picturesque town some 20 kilometres from Paris, in 1860 when the painter-to-be Gustave Caillebotte was 12-years-old. They would remain in the home until 1879 and during his years there the artist would paint portraits of family, friends, vistas and viewpoints from the property’s magnificent 11-hectare park. This natural setting would inspire over 90 of the artist’s paintings including 20 devoted to the scenic river, the Yerres that borders the park. Today, visitors can discover the park and the home, which over the course of a 20-year restoration has been returned to its 19th century splendour. Caillebotte who was personally wealthy also supported fellow painters like Claude Monet and Edouard Manet, and he would exhibit in and help organise the Impressionist fairs of the latter part of the 19th century. Today, the Caillebotte property is regarded as a high place of Impressionism and is part of the Destination Impressionnisme network. Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays open from 10am to 6pm 8 rue de Concy, 91330 Yerres, 01 80 37 20 61 RER D from Gare de Lyon direction Melun to Yerres (20 minutes), 7 minutes by foot from station 58 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Sculpture by Daniel Brush; Le Casin, the Caillebotte home in Yerres photo ©Ville de Yerres

Caillebotte Country

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Les 12 travaux d’Astérix de Goscinny et Uderzo. Distribution DARGAUD FILMS. ©1976 – Dargaud Films Productions – René Goscinny – Albert Uderzo; Lucky Luke ©Lucky comics, 2017; René Goscinny and John Wayne - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés; Albert Uderzo et René Goscin - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés

GOSCINNY, THE GRAND

a Cinémathèque française is paying tribute to the French comic book writer René Goscinny the author of amongst other works Lucky Luke and Asterix, in an exhibition entitled Goscinny and the Cinema, Asterix, Lucky Luke and Company. The show, being held 40 years after his death, demonstrates the influence cinema had on his work as well as taking a look into the movies that he made himself. The show underscores how the cinema and its most mainstream genres like westerns, peplums and burlesque, were parodied and magnified by a creator who drew inspiration from his immense knowledge of cinema. Before launching into filmmaking in his own right when he created the Studios Idéfix in 1974, Goscinny was the gagman for Bourvil, the scriptwriter for television dramas for Jean Rochefort and the screenwriter for his friend Pierre Tchernia for cult films like Le Viager and The Holes. With his own films produced at the Studios Idéfix like The Twelve Tasks of Asterix and Lucky Luke, he contributed greatly to the inception of the French school of animated cinema. “I left for the United States with the hope of working for Walt Disney, but Walt Disney didn’t know it,” Goscinny once said,” I admire Walt Disney, it was his creations that inspired me to

do what I do.” It was in Buenos Aires where the Paris-born Goscinny grew up that he discovered classics of American cinema like Laurel & Hardy and Buster Keaton. The exhibition also shows how the characters of Goscinny and his fellow creators, among them Uderzo and Sempé continued their career on the silver screen through other producers and filmmakers turning characters like Asterix and Obelisk, Lucky Luke, Petit Nicolas and Iznogoud into international stars. Goscinny was nicknamed Walt Goscinny by his friend Gotlib and today one of the avenues that leads up to Disneyland Paris is named avenue René Goscinny. The exhibition is made up of five sections and takes the visitor on a journey into the artist’s life and works.

La Cinémathèque française is home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

Exhibition from October 4th through to March 4th 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

The Twelve Tasks of Asterix by René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo, 1976. René Goscinny and John Wayne in the offices of the comics magazine Pilote, published in the 58th issue of Pilote on December 1st, 1960. Albert Uderzo and René Goscinny at the soirée for the premiere of Astérix the Gaulois at Maxim’s on November 15th, 1967 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 59

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Azay-Le-Rideau, A Renaissance

t emerges from its island setting, a mystical, mythical château reflected in the surrounding waters of the Indre, seemingly a shimmering mirage.

The Château of Azay-le Rideau, built during the reign of Francis I on the ruins of a feudal castle between 1518 and 1527 by Gilles Berthelot, advisor and then treasurer of the king, is regarded as a masterpiece of the first French Renaissance. Its striking setting along with its diverse French and Renaissance Italian features like the rising dormer windows, steeply sloping slate roof, the grand central staircase rising in straight flights and sculpted decorations have made it one of the most famous castles of the Loire Valley. Royal guests over the years have included Louis XIII and Louis XIV. The great French writers Prosper Merimée and Honoré de Balzac were 19th century visitors with Balzac describing Azay as “a faceted diamond set in the Indre”. Following a three-year restoration by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, visitors can discover the castle in a new way, catching a glimpse into the French lifestyle of the 19th century when the château was at its apogee. While both of its wings were built in the early years of the 16th century, the château took on its final shape in the 19th century. The restoration work focused in on the roof and facades but also concentrated on reconstituting on the ground floor all of the luxury and comfort of its last private owners, the Biencourt family, enabling the visitor to plunge into the art of living in the 19th century. Charles de Biencourt, the Marquis of Biencourt, purchased the château in 1791 and the family would greatly embellish it during the 19th century paying utmost attention to furniture and furnishings. Up on the first floor Les Enchantments d’Azay has been installed with works by contemporary artists inspired by the castle’s collections and the Renaissance. Installations by Piet.sO and Peter Keene include miniature 60 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

automats and a banquet enjoyed by a host of animated creatures. On this floor the visitor can also discover the Renaissance bedroom of the wife of its first owner. The château is surrounded by a unique park with a host of flora including the American tulip tree, the sequoia, the bald cypress and a magnificent array of hydrangeas. Meanwhile, winding walkways offer interesting perspectives onto the château and with its river location, the park is home to some 60 species of dragonflies, some of which are endangered. THE CHATEAU OF AZAY-LE RIDEAU 19 rue Balzac, 37190 Azay-le-Rideau, 02 47 45 42 04 www.monuments-nationaux.fr/en

Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, southern facade © Léonard de Serres – CMN; Statuette of Louis XII and portrait gallery in the living room of the marquis de Biencourt © Léonard de Serres – CMN

Day Trip

LA RENAISSANCE

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Although the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 62 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; OctMarch 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; AprSept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm;

Panthéon: iStockphoto 2017 © VitalyEdush

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Monuments

The Panthéon

Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE-CHAPELLE

The Palais de Tau © David Bordes – CMN

A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. JanMarch 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

PALAIS DU TAU This medieval palace next to the Cathedral of Reims was originally the home of the archbishops of Reims and over the years has been used as a court, trading hall, barracks and prison. Today it is listed as a historic monument managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux and houses a museum and hosts temporary exhibitions. Among the remarkable objects on display are Charlemagne’s talisman, the Chalice of the Kings of France and the Holy Thorn reliquary. From October 7 through to January 7 Divins ornements, textile treasures from the Cathedral of Reims. Tues-Sun 9:30am-12:30pm & 2pm-5:30pm. 8€. www.palais-du-tau.fr/en. 2 place du Cardinal Luçon, 51072 Reims, 03 26 47 81 79. SNCF train from Paris Gare de l’Est

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arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AreAs & MArkets Paris Flea Market

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Opera Gallery

Carré Rive Gauche

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

Art gAlleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

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Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

AttrActions

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Flight Experience Paris

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. M° Quai de la Gare

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are four major shows including two featuring horses, encounters with animals, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville, 03.44.54.00.96.

Flight experienCe paris | Attractions

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Address Book

monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

From Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7

Le Manoir de Paris

Batobus

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

Parc Asterix

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Chartres

boAt cruises Bateaux Parisiens

dAy trips Auvers sur Oise

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

parC asterix | Attractions

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

gArdens Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways

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arts&attractions Address Book

for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MuseuMs & fondAtions Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries

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d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Espace Dali

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent

Musée d’Orsay

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to

Musée de l’hoMMe | Museums & Fondations

arts&attractions

Address Book

6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural

center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Palais Galliera Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

palais galliera | Museums & Fondations

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

prActicAl inforMAtion Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Musée des arts déCoratiFs | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67

The Guide

DINING

Italian Cuisine | French Fare | Bistros | High Tea | Brunch

Dine at Les Foodies, a modern bistro in the Marais (page 70)

68 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

DINING

Restaurants

Pasta, Please After opening two of the best restaurants on the Left Bank, Ze Kitchen Galerie and KGB, exceptionally talented chef William Ledeuil has a new hit on his hands with the delightful Kitchen Ter(re), an art-gallery-like restaurant specialising in pastas made with flour from stone-ground heirloom grains. This excellent new table was born of a chance meeting arranged by one of Ledeuil’s suppliers, Michel Bachès. Bachès, whose farm is located in Eus near Perpignan, supplies Ledeuil with the citrus fruits that are a key ingredient in his cooking, and he was the one who introduced him to Roland Feuillas, a miller and baker in Cucugnan twenty miles northwest of Perpignan. What especially drew Ledeuil to Feuillas’s pasta is that it beautifully absorbs the mostly Asian influenced bouillons and sauces that have made his reputation. Among Ledeuil’s favourite ingredients are galangal, basil, ginger, Japanese seaweed, lemongrass, coconut milk, and coriander, and he also uses a variety of typically southeast Asian cooking techniques, including steaming, bouillons, marinades and juxtapositions of raw and cooked ingredients in the same dish to create a contrast of textures. Start with the deliciously rich gazpacho or the steak tartare seasoned with Sobressada, a soft pork sausage from Mallorca, and then try the Dentelle de Cucugnan pasta with cuttlefish, tomato, galangal and lemon or maybe the coquillettes (little shells) in Thai bouillon redolent of fresh herbs. Desserts are excellent, too, including pandanus-flavoured coconut milk soup with raspberry coulis or the gianduja chocolate with coffee and miso. – Alexander Lobrano Kitchen Ter(re) 26 blvd Saint-Germain (5th), 01 42 39 47 48 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 69

DINING

Restaurants

Mediterranean Dining at Palais de Tokyo The latest address from the Paris based Quixotic Projects group, which has signed some of the hippest bars and restaurants in the French capital, including Le Mary Celeste and Candelaria, is Les Grands Verres, which is located in a stark but striking space in the Palais de Tokyo. Sleek oak chairs at a long counter, oak-framed black banquettes, and dangling single-bulb suspension lamps make this 170-seater new venue look like a contemporary art gallery, and young American chef Preston Miller’s modern Mediterranean menu is a roster of temptation that caters to all appetites and is vegetarianfriendly. Begin your meal with one of the superb cocktails created by mixologist Hyacinthe Lescoët, the previous head bartender of Le Mary Céleste who recently won the first prize at the famous Chivas Masters France contest, and then peruse the menu, which is different at brunch, lunch and dinner. Stopping by for dinner, we started with three appetisers to be shared, heirloom tomatoes and melon with candied garlic and tahini, curried mussels with parsley butter, and grilled marinated vegetables with labneh. Next, spiralini pasta with clams, whey butter, horseradish and mint and milkbraised pork shoulder with smoked aubergine, new potatoes and chicarrón were succulent delights. Desserts were excellent as well, including grilled peaches with yogurt-cashew ice-cream and chocolate sumac torte with rose meringue. – A.L. Les Grands Verres 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 85 53 03 61

Les Foodies, a stylish new modern bistro in the Marais is an ideal address for lunch while visiting one of the most charming neighbourhoods in Paris. Chef Davide Calloni, who’s of Thai-Italian background and grew up in Milan before roving the world to cook in places as diverse as Mongolia and Mexico, has created a light, fresh, creative menu with an intriguingly cosmopolitan character. If you fancy an aperitif, the one not to miss is Le Saint Germain, which is made with elderflower cordial and is gently floral and very refreshing. Then start with the baby pea soup with courgettes, mint and almonds or the langoustine tartare with fava beans, pancetta and Pecorino, and then try the roasted duck breast with white asparagus, orange and black garlic, or maybe the grilled squid with rice noodles, peas and feta cheese. Service is friendly and efficient, and there’s a good wine list, too. N.B. They’re open for brunch on Sundays. – A.L. Les Foodies 6-8 Square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 09 82 42 73 09 70 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Dining in the Marais

DINING

Restaurants

Hotel Dining Aside from its well-mixed cocktails and very good Italian cooking, the main reason to come to Ristorante National, in a stunningly chic but low-key new hotel, is the spectacular décor of the atrium dining room, which has a glass roof that slides open when weather allows. Only recently opened, this place is already pulling in a chic international crowd who come to dine on dishes like burrata with borage, trofie pasta with pesto sauce, linguine with bottarga and sea bass baked with cherry tomatoes. The dessert not to miss is the Sicilian pistachio cream with pistachio ice-cream. Service is charming and there are some excellent Italian wines on the list. – A.L. Ristorante National 243 rue Saint Martin (3rd), 01 80 97 22 80

Overlooking the atmospherically moody canal Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement, Two Stories showcases the succulent Creole cooking of New Orleans, a kitchen that’s a distinctive and delicious mixture of French, Spanish, African-American, Native American and other cuisines. On the ground floor, the casual Po Boy Café serves up such succulent Cajun classics as Jambalaya, which is a mixture of shrimp, ham and sausage served over rice, and gumbo, made here with house-smoked pork sausages, chicken and okra. A variety of excellent and very generously garnished sandwiches are also served, including braised beef with smoked Cheddar and Creole sauce, New Orleans-style fried chicken, and Andouille (homemade Cajun sausage). Since American owner Rachel Moeller also runs a bakery specialising in such Yankee desserts as cheesecake, brownies and pecan pies, desserts here are outstanding and the one not to miss is the sour-cherry pudding. Upstairs, Nola, an acronym for New Orleans, LA, has the casually elegant ambiance of a restaurant in that city’s French Quarter and serves a more gastronomically ambitious menu. Start with Louisianastyle crayfish with artichokes or the charred aubergine salad, and then try the quail gumbo or the succulent braised and grilled pork belly with carrot puree. Don’t miss the strawberry shortcake made with biscuits, strawberries and buttermilk ice-cream for dessert. – A.L. Two Stories 72 Quai de Jemmapes (10th), 01 53 16 17 88 72 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Two Folds American

dining

Restaurant Advertorial

Santoor Indian Cuisine / Paris 8th This charming restaurant offers fine halal gourmet Indian cuisine. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts. Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Open every day, Mondays-Saturdays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for dinner. 30 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: +33 (0)1 42 56 33 18 www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr

La truffière Cuisine d’Auteur / Paris 5th Chef Christophe Poard offers up a creative and modern cuisine based on the seasons of the various kinds of truffles. There is a wine list with some 4,200 offerings and which has received the Best of Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator. Come and discover the ABCs of Wine boutique featuring the table arts and a wine cellar. Lunch from 40€, Dinner from 65€/ 95€ on Saturdays. 4 rue de Blainville - Paris 5th Mº Place Monge (line 7) or RER B: Luxembourg Tel: +33 (0)1 46 33 29 82 www.latruffiere.com

74 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

DINING

Restaurants

French High Tea It is time to celebrate the fact that summer is over and indulge, without the guilt of having to worry about fitting into your swimsuit, and if we had to recommend a place to do so it would have to be at La Bauhinia for the sweetest high tea in town. Pastry chef Michaël Bartocetti has deliciously created the L’Heure du Gouter, high tea à la Française, which celebrates the French’s favourite childhood treats. Served every Saturday and Sunday between 4 and 6pm, L’Heure du Goûter is an inviting buffet of what sweet dreams are made of with French pastries sitting scrumptiously side by side just waiting for the picking. Paris Brest, millefeuille and éclairs are only some of the creamy delights enticingly laid out on the elegantly dressed tables. And if you are feeling extra forgiving do yourself a delicious favour and leave room for Bartocetti’s chocolate chip cookie with dollops of caramel, best enjoyed like nobody is watching, by dipping it in your cup of coffee. - S.I.

La Bauhinia 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 91

Italian Cuisine Another month, another Big Mamma Group restaurant opening its doors in the French capital and this time round it is the second arrondissement of Paris that has welcomed the new table everyone is lining up to try. Not straying from the group’s winning formula, Pizzeria Popolare serves up affordable and hearty Italian dishes with the standout dish being the margherita pizza going for only 5 euros. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations so be sure to be first in line at 12pm for lunch and 7pm for dinner. - S.I. Pizzeria Popolare 111 rue Réaumur (2nd) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75

dining

Restaurant Advertorial

LE bistROt DU LOUcHÉbEm Traditional French cuisine

Traditional French cuisine

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

bREakfast in amERica

WEPLER Traditional French cuisine 414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30e 4Set-menu 24.50e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com th

A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: one of the finest French Onion soups in the capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone .

76 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

LE LOUcHÉbEm

The "Original" American Diner in Paris! 4BIA 1: 17 rue des Ecoles, Paris 5th 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th 4Open 7 days a week - 8:30am - 11pm 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri, 10.95€ & 8.95€ (students) 4Sunday Brunch served all day 4www.breakfast-in-america.com

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes... and much more! Hand in this ad to receive 10% off when you order Breakfast Anytime off our menu!

DINING

Restaurants

Brunch in the Marais Lazy weekends go hand-in-hand with brunch and Le Comptoir du Trésor is our go-to address for an all-you-can-eat buffet brunch. French baguettes, freshly baked cakes and pain au chocolat will start your breakfast end of brunch while salads, seafood and eggs will savour up the lunch end of the meal. Open on weekends only, the restaurant also boasts a dessert buffet with sweet treats including lemon meringue pie and crepes that you can enjoy with a dollop of Nutella, while freshly cut fruit to choose from is available for patrons looking for a lighter end to their brunch. Our advice, however, is to indulge and walk off your brunch by getting lost in the streets of the Marais. - S.I. Le Comptoir du Trésor 7 rue du Trésor (4th), 01 42 71 12 36

Contemporary Village Dining Nestled between Place de la Madeleine and Place de la Concorde the French capital hides the Village Royal, a quaint little village-like passageway that links Rue Royale and Rue Boissy d’Anglas. The gated village is home to upmarket boutiques including Dior, Chanel and Napapijri, and with a large outdoor dining area Le Village, the only restaurant found within the village. Open from Monday to Saturday, Le Village is the famous Hotel Costes’s sister establishment, serving the hotel’s signature dishes including the prawn risotto and the grilled eggplant served with creamy burrata cheese. Although it is only open until 7pm every night, the restaurant opens from 8am with continuous service, inviting shoppers to start their day with eggs and buttery croissants for breakfast before flexing their credit cards at the neighbouring boutiques, or enjoying a relaxing lunch or a fun cocktail hour to celebrate their fabulous purchases. Of course the restaurant’s terrace also makes it an attractive table when the sun is out, letting diners enjoy the rays without the foot traffic. - S.I. Le Village 25 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 17 02 19 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 77

Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dining on the seine Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann

Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Chacha Club - Classic French (€€)

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant offers up a great atmosphere that includes an outdoor terrace with a smart view in good weather. Starters include raviolis of Royan in a creamy broth or foie gras with homemade apricot jam while for a main course sample the tagliatelle with smoked salmon or lamb chops with mashed potatoes. There is a cheese board and a host of delectable desserts. Wed-Sun D. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, l & D: Breakfast, lunch & Dinner.

Clover Grill | Steakhouse (1st) 78 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

le Quinzième | Fusion (15th)

dining

Address Book

jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-gerMAin (5th, 6th)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

le CélADon | Gourmet (2nd)

Au Boeuf Couronnè | Classic French (19th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 79

dining

Address Book Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French (€€) Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The menu revolves around the seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack menu is served everyday throughout the day. MonSat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening. 5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie

(€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary

(€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens

of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

Around oPérA gArnier & PigALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, l & D: Breakfast, lunch & Dinner.

mAnKo PAris | Peruvian (8th) 80 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

lADurée ChAmPs-elysées | French Pastries (8th)

dining

Address Book Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie

(€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style

restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood

(€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea

bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

le GAstroQuet | Classic French (15th)

mAmA shelter PAris | Contemporary (9th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 81

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Don’t miss your chance to see West Side Story live in Paris (page 84)

82 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

ENTERTAINMENT

Events

Oktoberfest Comes to Paris You don’t have to go all the way to Germany to take part in Oktoberfest with the French capital bringing the beer festival for the third year running to the Paris Event Center from the 5th to the 14th of the month. The ten-day festival naturally includes a lot of beer to swig, German specialties including pretzels and sauerkraut and a whole lot of music. Leading the entertainment pack is Steinsberger Musikanten, a folk band that will be playing traditional German music and promises to get you dancing on the tables while the Swings dance troupe will be adding a French touch to their cabaret performance with the leg raising Cancan. Buy your tickets at www.oktoberfestparis.fr Paris Event Center 20 ave de la Porte de la Villette (19th)

Rolling Stones (c) Claude Gassian

Rolling into Paris This month marks the opening of the U Arena, the city’s new stadium located in the business district, La Défense, and who better to inaugurate the arena than the most famous rock band in the world, The Rolling Stones. Performing on the 19th, 22nd and the 25th of October, the band is bringing their No Filter tour to the City of Light with a show promising to be a once in a lifetime experience. Tickets at Fnac U Arena 99 Jardins de l’Arche, 92000 Nanterre w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 83

ENTERTAINMENT Shows

A Broadway Musical in Paris La Seine Musicale will be welcoming the award-winning Broadway musical, West Side Story, from the 12th of October, for an unforgettable theatrical experience. Inspired by William Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet, West Side Story tells the story of Tony and Maria in 1950’s New York. Set in the Upper West Side neighbourhood of New York City, the musical is a tale of rivalry between two street gangs, the Jets and the Sharks and the love story between two teenagers from the warring families. Choreographed by Joey McKneely, student of and assistant to Jerome Robbins, the choreographer and director of the original 1957 Broadway production, this musical will blow you away with it’s captivating cast and tragic love story. Watch as 32 actors and 21 musicians perform Maria, America and Somewhere, as the two gangs struggle to gain control of the neighbourhood. Tickets at Fnac La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 53 53 Performed in English

It is the kooky family that everyone loved to watch on TV, Gomez and Morticia Addams, their children, Wednesday and Pugsley, and of course who can forget Lurch and Cousin Itt, and now The Addams Family is coming to the City of Light. This season Le Palace is welcoming everyone’s favourite family to its stage where mayhem is guaranteed to follow. The story picks up a few years from when we last left the family and now Wednesday is a young lady in love. Nervous about introducing her boyfriend to her mother, who she thinks will consider him to be too ordinary, Wednesday confides in her father who is made to promise not to say a word before a proper dinner is organised to officially introduce her boyfriend to her mother. All the fun of course begins when Gomez is forced to keep this secret from his wife. Tickets at Fnac Le Palace 8 rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), 01 40 22 60 00 Performed in French 84 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

They’re Creepy and They’re Kooky

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

TUTU Cute Starring a scene-stealing pink tutu and six talented male dancers, TUTU is a musical like no other. The Chicos Mambo dance company has put together an original and colourful show that sees the dancers beautifully and cheekily interpret the different styles of dance during the 20-tableaux show. An ode to dance, watch as the dancers plié, twirl and mambo, performing iconic dances of every genre ranging from contemporary to ballet, including quite the original Swan Lake. Showing at Bobino from the 11th of October Tickets at Fnac 14-20 rue de la Gaité (14th), 01 43 27 24 24

Become Parisian Through Laughter According to comedian Olivier Giraud anyone can become French, and more specifically Parisian, in one hour, and during his stand-up show, How to Become Parisian in One Hour?, which recently won the Welcome Awards by CIWY Cultural Discoveries award, Giraud will give you all the tools you need to blend into the Parisian crowd. From ordering at a café to shopping along the beautiful avenues of the city, Giraud makes sure you are well-armed for the City of Light with his comical observations. Performed in English, the show is hilarious, leaving everyone, visitors and tourists alike, in stitches from laughter. You can book your tickets by visiting www.oliviergiraud.com or by calling 06 98 57 45 98. Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 blvd Poissonnière (9th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 85

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Pop-Up Tapas Another tapas bar taking over the little black book of Parisian addresses is Takaramono. The pop-up bar takes over Petite Amour every Friday and Saturday night from 7pm to midnight and is where you can sip on natural wines and sake. Dressed in retro pastel colours, the natural wine bar hosts a revolving programme of music and tapas dishes and is a great spot for a catch up with friends on the weekend, and an opportunity to see where hipster Parisians dwell. Takaramono Petite Amour 3 rue de la Fidélité (10th)

Restaurant and bar Bonhomie is one of our favourite spots for cocktail hour in the French capital. The chic establishment is hidden in a side street of the bustling 10th arrondissement of Paris and where the on-trend Parisians flock to on any night of the week for a drink at the bar. The cocktail menu here changes on a regular basis, much like the restaurant’s, keeping up with the seasons and offering Mediterranean-inspired drinks using only the freshest ingredients, which have included Greek melon in previous cocktail offerings to bring a little taste of the Greek isles to Paris. You can order tapas at the bar to enjoy with your drinks or make your way to the restaurant section where you can sample the chef’s modern take on tapas dining. Bonhomie 22 rue d’Enghien (10th), 09 83 88 82 51 86 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

Bonhomie 2016 -®Yann Deret

A Sip of the Mediterranean

ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a

comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any

situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians! Rated Best Theater Performance / Certificate of Excellence 2015-2016-2017

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH EVERY THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM / SUNDAY @ 6PM Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

CHICOSMAMBO

TUTU

Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Choreography : Philippe Lafeuille

PRIX DU PUBLIC AVIGNON

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

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MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Moulin Rouge

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD!

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €175 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Harry’s New York Bar

bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Le Bar

Le Bristol Bar

The Ballroom

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2 arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier nd

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

harry’s New york Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (2nd) 90 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

casino Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife

Buddha Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

entertainment Address Book

with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th),

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most

raspoutiNe

| Night Clubs (8th)

sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

sileNcio

| Night Clubs (2nd)

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The Guide

SERVICES

Real Estate | Home Décor | Eurostar & Trains | Real Estate Agencies | Metro Map

92 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

SERVICES

The Musée Cernuschi Photo © Benoît Fougeirol / Musée Cernuschi, Paris; The Main Staircase in the Cernuschi mansion turned museum Photo © Benoît Fougeirol / Musée Cernuschi, Pari. Bust of Henri Cernuschi Photo © Benoît Fougeirol / Musée Cernuschi, Paris

Real Estate

Museum Mansions By Patricia Valicenti

Paris has a number of fine museums that were once private mansions inhabited in times of yore by among others, bankers, economists, writers and artists, often surrounded by their extensive art collections. The Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi moved to Paris in the second half of the 19th century where he became known as an economist and a savvy investor. He went on a world tour accompanied by the art critic Théodore Duret from September 1871 returning in January of 1873. During his stay in China and Japan he would acquire some 4000 works of art that would form the heart of his collection. Shortly after his return he would purchase the last parcel of empty land on the Avenue Vélasquez, which today borders the Parc Monceau and asked the architect William Bouwens van der Boijen to build a private mansion for him. He would live there on the third floor surrounded by his works of art. The home was built in the neo-Classic style in vogue in Italy in 1840 and on the facade are two mosaic medallions, one of Aristotle and the other depicting Leonardo da Vinci. Inside one enters into a high-ceilinged immense room where the immense bronze Buddha acquired by Cernuschi in Japan sits in majesty. Upon his death he bequeathed the home and collections to the city of Paris and today the beautifully appointed private mansion houses the city’s museum devoted to the art of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.

Meanwhile, perched on the hills of the Passy neighbourhood, today one of the wealthiest in the city, the Maison de Balzac is the last of the writer’s homes in Paris that remains today. It was on this property that Honoré de Balzac, from 1840 to 1847, would correct his work, the Human Comedy in its entirety and write a number of his masterpieces. The property is located on a site that has been inhabited since the Middle Ages and it remains one of the last examples of the pastoral atmosphere of Passy, which was a village outside of Paris when Balzac lived there. The writer rented an apartment, under the name of Monsieur de Breugnol, in an outbuilding on the property replete with a dining room, living room, garden and cellar. Today, the private mansion on the property is the Maison de Balzac, a museum devoted to the writer, exhibiting his personal objects, paintings and engravings and a large collection of original manuscripts and editions. Musée Cernuschi 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01 53 96 21 50 Maison de Balzac 47 rue Raynouard (16th), 01 55 74 41 80 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 93

Address Book

services

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains

medical services

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

Paris districts

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

rental cars & scooters

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

Jean Perzel HOME DECOR

Home decor

Calligaris - 45 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.44.84 91. M° Rue du Bac Cinna - 189 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.44.39.07.00. M° Rue du Bac Espace Topper - 63 rue de la Convention (15th), 01.45.77.80.40. M° Boucicaut Ligne Roset - 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.94.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (17th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire Ooumm Paris - 22 rue des Bons Enfants (1st), 01.45.74.91.91. M° Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Boissière Steiner Paris - 67 blvd Raspail (6th), 01.42.22.59.13. M° Rennes

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real estate agencies Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule DS Real Estate Paris - 78 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01.83.62.90.14. M° Victor Hugo Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the DenfertRochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes,

4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

miss "griffes" Come discover unique haute couture designs in this store located in the heart of the golden triangle of Paris

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

Prada - Louis Vuitton - Armani

Marni - Valentino - Chanel

Visitors Bureau Reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides. Opening Hours: From November 1st to April 30th, 10am to 7pm. Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville and Montmartre/Anvers (18th) M° Anvers. www.parisinfo.com

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19 rue de Penthièvre 75008 Paris - France Monday to Friday 1pm to 7pm www.miss-griffes.fr miss-griffes.fr

miss-griffes

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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SERVICES

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

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Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

ROMEO ALLEN

HEAD CONCIERGE AT THE DISNEYLAND HOTEL PARIS The California Grill restaurant

Café de Flore

Sacré-Coeur

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? Paris counts many monuments from which you can admire the capital city, the most well-known ones being the Sacré Coeur, the Eiffel Tower or the Montparnasse Tower with its panoramic restaurant and bar. For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Astier, which is an old traditional and authentic bar, there you will find a nice cuisine with fresh seasonal products, along with a rich wine list of more than 300 references. Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes, which serves traditional and generous dishes such as homemade cassoulet and veal kidneys. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? The Arc is a world-famous trendy club and is very much appreciated by the Parisian night owls and in-the-know tourists, it has an exceptional location situated in the Golden Triangle in front of the Place de l’Etoile, next to the Arc de Triomphe. 98 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2017

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? In Le Marais, which is the area regarded as the precursor of fashion and Avenue Montaigne, the place of archetypal luxury. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? For a sparkling experience, the Disneyland Hotel at Disneyland Paris invites you to live an exceptional, luxurious and unforgettable experience. This journey will awaken all your senses, involving culinary experiences and magical entertainment. The journey will begin in the Café Fantasia with a cocktail, and will continue to the California Grill restaurant, where you will taste an exceptional wine-pairing meal. To end this perfect evening, you will be led to the Castle Club, a unique and cosy place, where you will enjoy a glass of champagne and sweet petits-fours, in front of the famous sound and light show, the Disney Illumination. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? The Louis Vuitton foundation and the Espace Cardin, contemporary places of exhibition in perpetual evolution.

Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/bachelorette party? The N’importe quoi, which is a bar with a crazy atmosphere dedicated to frivolity and casualness. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisure stroll? The Saint-Martin canal is an ideal place for a nice walk and picnics, you will be plunged into a festive and multicultural atmosphere, with its locks, its romantic Eiffel-type footbridges, and you can imagine yourself in the Paris of former days.

My perfect day 9am: Breakfast in the terrace of the Café de Flore (guaranteed ambiance of absinthe and old literary geniuses). 12pm: Lunch at Café Marly in front of the Louvre Pyramid. 3pm: Chic shopping at a reduced price at Vallée Village, which is 5 minutes away from Disneyland Paris. 9pm: Dinner at Captain Jack’s - Restaurant des Pirates where they serve delicious seafood platters.

where

Your Guide to the World

California Grill restaurant at Disneyland Paris DR; Café de Flore Istokphoto 2017 © Oleg Albinsky; Sacré-Coeur Istokphoto 2017 © instamatics; Montparnasse Istokphoto 2017 © Tour Montpanarsse 56 photopointcom

The panoramic view from the Montparnasse Tower

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ON THE RECOMMENDED RETAIL PRICE. 2 ON THE OUTLET PRICE. 3 UPON PRESENTATION OF THIS PAGE AT OUR WELCOME CENTER UNTIL 30 NOVEMBRE 2017.

Discover more than 110 boutiques in a charming open-air Village, including Armani, Coach, Furla, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Sandro, Tod’s and many more, with savings of at least 33%1 and tax refunds on your shopping. Open seven days a week, 40 minutes from Paris and five minutes from Disney® Parks. Receive a VIP Card for a 10% further reduction2 in six boutiques of your choice and enjoy complimentary Hands-free Shopping3.

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AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE – PARIS