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August PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
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PARIS | CONTENTS
10 14
Hot Dates
18
A Round Up of Rosés
This month’s calendar of must-see events
Fabulous Family Fun
We share with you the best things to do this summer with the whole family
We toast the French capital with a selection of rosé wine
The guide 20 SHOPPING
The latest trends and the hottest fashions 40 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 50 DINING
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 60 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and shows 70 SERVICES
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings A UGU S T 2 0 19 Issue N o 307
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®
SUMMER in Paris
ON THE COVER
05/07/2019 09:37
Celebrate summer in Paris at Mademoiselle Mouche (page 67) Cover Photo © Pierre Cazana
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Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com
Seeing Paris in the summer is one of the best ways to see the city, firstly because you can walk around the capital discovering its beautiful monuments, and secondly because you can sip on rosé all day while sitting outside in the sun. In our A Round Up of Rosés feature we bring you a pink-coloured list of the popular summer wine and where to
EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko
enjoy it.
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If you are visiting Paris with your children this month then do not miss our Fabulous Family Fun feature with great ideas of things to do and see with the little ones including a boat ride at the Jardin d’Acclimatation and an after dark visit of the city zoo.
DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang* DIGITAL MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT Pauline Valter* OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREMAGAZINE.COM
Spending time in Paris would of course be incomplete without a spot
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trends as well as our A View from the Top photo shoot. Shot on the rooftop of the iconic Plaza Athénée hotel, the feature brings you our
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favourite looks to adopt for when discovering the capital in the heat.
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Meanwhile, our foodie readers will be spoilt for choice with our round-
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up of restaurants in our Dining section with contemporary cuisine, world food and Coco, the new restaurant at the splendid opera house. And if you’re looking for the best bars to enjoy a drink before or after your dinner, turn to our Entertainment section where we share with you the summer’s hottest pop-up bars.
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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris. Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Août 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito
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August
HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month
Going Green ALL MONTH The Fondation Cartier Pour l’Art Contemporain is hosting Trees, an art exhibition highlighting the works of artists, botanists and philosophers inspired by trees. Each work showcases the beauty of these living plants with photographs, installations and documentaries focussing on the recent scientific discoveries surrounding trees as well as shedding light on the threat they face today with deforestation. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01 42 18 56 50
10 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Sebastián Mejía, series Quasi Oasis 17 (Avenida Simón Bolívar, Santiago, Chili), 2012. Collection of the artist, Santiago, Chile. © Sebastián Mejía; © Mr.Kaikai Kiki Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Courtesy Perrotin; Tadao CERN, Blow Job, 2013 © Tadao CERN; Tutankhamen Gold Inlaid Canopic Coffinette of Tutankhamun Dedicated to Imseti and Isis CARTER © Laboratoriorosso, Viterbo/Italy
PARIS THIS MONTH
Art Show ALL MONTH The exhibition Carte Blanche to Mr. and Pharrell Williams A Call to Action, held at Musée National des Arts Asiatiques – Guimet, brings to light the tensions of today’s social, political and technological problems facing children and explores the optimism and potential of the new generation. Curated by American rapper Pharrell Williams, the show features an installation by Japanese artist Mr. with a large-scale mural a nod to the tradition of classic European portraiture. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01 56 52 53 00
Up in the Air ALL MONTH In the heart of Paris’s business district, La Défense, for the second year running, the outdoor art exhibition Extatiques is taking place, bringing art installations to the neighbourhood’s esplanade, turning it into the city’s largest outdoor exhibition space. Through to the 6th of October, walk through the esplanade and discover the works of international artists including Benedetto Bufalino, Choi Jeong Hwa and Tadao Cern. The running thread between all the invited artists is air, with the element inspiring the artwork, from Bufalino’s amazing Caravan in the Sky to Cern’s comical Blow Job portraying people’s faces changing in the wind. Esplanade de la Défense
Tutankhamen Treasures ALL MONTH In the Grande Halle de La Villette an exceptional exhibition is taking place. Tutankhamen, Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh celebrates the centenary of the discovery of the royal tomb and showcases a collection of 150 original objects from the tomb, 50 of which have never been exhibited outside of Egypt until now. 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01 40 03 75 75 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 11
PARIS THIS MONTH
Festivals AUGUST 1-3 FESTIVAL PARIS L’ETE This international summer festival is filled with song, music, art and dance performed by artists from all over the world. Events, performances and shows are held
Dining on the Seine ALL MONTH Take in the beauty of the French capital aboard the Don Juan II, the plush boat that beautifully glides along the River Seine while serving contemporary French cuisine courtesy of chef Guy Krenzer. The Yachts de Paris-operated dinner cruise is an exceptional way to both sample French fare and to take in the magnificent monuments of Paris. Reservations are recommended. Port Henri IV (4th), 01 44 54 14 71
at prestigious venues throughout the city and nearby suburbs. For more information and programme visit www.parislete.fr. Reservations and tickets are available Monday to Friday, 2pm6:30pm, by calling 01 44 94 98 00 or at the Monfort, 106 rue Brancion (15th), and from Monday to Friday, 2pm to 6:30pm, at all of the festival venues one hour before the show.
AUGUST 10-31 FESTIVAL CLASSIQUE AU VERT Concerts celebrating classical music are held outdoors in the scenic Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes on Saturdays and Sundays at 4pm. The entrance fee for the park is 2.50€ and the concerts are free. www.classiqueauvert.fr
ALL MONTH High-end department store Printemps is welcoming the Opéra National de Paris for the whole month of August for a special pop-up store celebrating the 350th anniversary of the opera. Candles, books and even mugs in the colours of the opera are all available. Printemps, Ground Floor, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00
Parc Floral de Paris, Esplanade SaintLouis, Bois de Vincennes (12th), 01 45 43 81 18
AUGUST 23-25 ROCK EN SEINE This rock music festival is held in the beautiful Domaine National
Shopping and Culture THROUGH TO AUGUST 18 Luxury shopping outlet La Vallée Village is the ideal rendezvous for finding bargains at high-end fashion houses such as Chloé and Burberry. And this month your shopping experience is artfully peppered with installations created by some of the world’s most admired contemporary artists including Richard Orlinski and Monsieur Chat, creating an outdoor museum in the village-like shopping destination. 3 Cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, 01 60 42 35 00 12 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
de Saint-Cloud and features a wide selection of confirmed and emerging acts. This year’s line-up includes The Cure and Johnny Marr. There is also a special programme, Mini Rock, for children aged 6 to 12. www.rockenseine.com Domaine National de Saint Cloud 1 ave de la Grille d’Honneur, 92210 Saint-Cloud
Yatchs de Paris © J.P. Salle; © Printemps ; ® M.Chat, Chat in love © Jean-Philippe Lebee
Pop-Up
Feature
Fabulous FAMILY FUN The thrilling Oziris attraction at Parc Astérix
By Patricia Valicenti
In Marne-la-Vallée the magical world of Disneyland Paris continues to thrill with its spellbinding rides, attractions, festive food and fun for everyone. And this summer the Lion King and the Jungle Book, two of Disney’s masterpieces, are being honoured in the park with special shows, exclusive products and themed eateries. Running through to September 22nd, the Festival of the Lion King and the Jungle Book will take you into brand-new shows and immersive experiences drawing their inspiration from Simba and Nala in the African savannah and also into the world of Baloo and the Indian jungle of King Louie. The Lion King: Rhythms of the Pride Lands is an original Disneyland Paris creation complete with singers, dancers, acrobats and drummers with choreography and original costumes designed by Disneyland Paris. The new creation, The Jungle Book Jive, is a trip into the Indian jungle filled with colours and discoveries and will proceed from every side of the park. Baloo and King Louie will be on hand as well as Mickey Mouse and his Friends who will metamorphose into explorers for the season. Guests, accompanied by a variety of artists, are invited to dance to the rhythm of the jungle. On another dancing note you can learn Timon’s MataDance in Adventureland where Timon and Pumba will be available to teach their philosophy of dancing to the MataDance. Visitors can discover 14 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
the Djembe Joy village for an immersive and interactive experience dedicated to these two celebrated Disney movies. The world of the Gauls, the ancient inhabitants of France, is waiting to be discovered in a fun for the whole family theme park 30 kilometres north of Paris. At Parc Astérix, which transposes the world of the celebrated Astérix French comics into a fun-filled amusement park, some 42 attractions and several shows are on hand in the park’s six different worlds: Ancient Gaul, the Roman Empire, Ancient Greece, the Vikings, A Time Journey and Egypt. And this year, the park is celebrating its 30th anniversary in style adding new attractions and shows. You can even stay over in one of the park’s unique and authentic hotels. This year the park is inaugurating Attention Menhir (Watch-out, Menhir), and in so doing is offering for the first time a 4D film in the park’s brand new, 300-seat theatre. In the Studio Idéfix, visitors take their places in dynamic seats that integrate effects like the wind, water and odours and which simulate the various movements of the characters in the film and actions like the launching and falling down of the menhirs or the effects of the magic potion. Summertime is a special time in the park for as night falls a magnificent sound and light show takes place lakeside during the late night openings for through to August 18th the park is open until 10pm. During this period you can also partake in a genuine banquet
Parc Astérix Photo © Cussot
F
rom attraction parks to traditional Parisian gardens and the banks of the Seine, there is plenty of fun in store both indoors and out for the whole family this summer.
The Jungle Book show at Disneyland (above) and colourful red coatis can now be viewed in the Amazon-Guyana zone of the Parc Zoologique de Paris (below)
of the Gauls with a brilliant buffet laden with cold cuts, fish, seafood, fruit and vegetables from the farm, cheeses and desserts. Celebrated characters from the comic books are on hand as well to bring a special ambiance to the dinner table.
Disney Photo © Disneyland Paris; Parc Zoologique de Paris. Photo © MNHN-FG Grandin
And Paris is filled with plenty of good old favourites for summer fun including the oldest theme park in France. The Enchanted River boat ride, the Little Train that wends through the woods and exotic birds are among the panorama of attractions for the visitor in the Bois de Boulogne at the Jardin d’Acclimatation founded in 1860, and inaugurated by Napoleon III and the Empress Eugénie. The park is home to a host of fun and exciting rides with evocative names like Speed Rockets, Flying Chairs, the Steam Machine and the Clock Tower and for hot summer days there are plenty of cooling water attractions including a wading pool and highly refreshing water misters. There are also indoor activities in the event of inclement weather including a magic show and a cinema and visitors can restore themselves in one of the venue’s eateries. Flora inside the park includes four hundred oak trees most of which were planted in the 19th century. There are exotic specimens as well like the Californian redwood, the horse chestnut and Himalayan cedar, for the original vocation of the garden was to acclimate species to the Parisian climate, hence its name. Walks wending through the greenery and on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne woodlands have been put into place offering a discovery of regional flora.
For some more wild adventures, head to the Parc Zoologique de Paris in the Bois de Vincennes. The zoological park showcases in 16 natural environments some 1000 animals: birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing some 194 different species. It is a highly diversified collection ranging from predators to colourful birds and a host of frog and lizard species. On August 1st, 8th and 15th, visitors can take in one of the park’s nocturnal sessions when the zoological gardens are open until 10pm and discover how the animals behave at night. This year the park is celebrating the 5th anniversary of its major renovation and the public establishment, which belongs to the Museum d’Histoire Naturelle (France’s National History Museum), also engages in research, the dissemination of information and participates in conservation programmes. The majority of the animals in the park were born in captivity and this summer visitors can discover some of the five new species that are slated to join the park throughout the year. The South American fur seal has been welcomed into the Patagonia zone, colourful red coatis can now be viewed in the Amazon-Guyana zone and the not to be missed bat-eared fox is in the Africa bio zone.
This year the park and garden that has been devoted to the natural world since its inception in the 19th century is presenting, in conjunction with the Jane Goodall Institute, which works to protect natural habitats, Wild Immersion, plunging the visitor into the heart of the natural world through superb films and virtual reality. The series of six 12-minute films projected in the Palais d’Hiver take young and old alike on a journey into the heart of nature to come up close to animals in the wild, so many of which are endangered with extinction. Wild Immersion, described as the first virtual nature reserve aims to raise awareness about the plight of our natural world through vibrant films enhanced with virtual reality and new immersive technologies. w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 15
Feature
The Grand bassin in the Luxembourg Gardens (above) and taking to the beach on the Seine at Paris Plage (below)
ADDRESS The scenic and refreshing Luxembourg Gardens stretch out over 25 hectares, are split into French gardens and English gardens and remain a gracious tried and true tradition for young and old alike. There are vintage apple trees, an apiary where genuine Parisian honey is collected and the superb and shady Medici fountain, an ornamental fishpond built in 1624. And there are a host of activities for children including pony rides, a puppet show, slides and swings and a large pond, the Grand Bassin, for sailing model yachts (by prodding them with wooden sticks) that are available for rent in the gardens.
LUXEMBOURG GARDENS Rue de Médicis-Rue de Vaugirard (6th) JARDIN D’ACCLIMATATION Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01 40 67 90 85 PARC ASTERIX 60128 Plailly, 08 26 30 10 40 PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS Entrance at the corner of Avenue Daumesnil and La Route de la Ceinture du Lac (12th), 01 40 79 31 25 PARIS PLAGE Parc Rives de Seine The quays between the Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor and the Pont de Sully, Bassin de la Villette, Quai de Seine, Quai de Loire Palace and Gardens Luxembourg iStockphoto 2019 © Lady-Photo; Taking to the beach on the Seine at Paris Plage. iStock © olrat
You can even get into beach mode at Paris Plage, which brings fun and games, colourful beach chairs, palm trees and refreshing water mists to the banks of the Seine. Workshops for children, board games, books and exhibitions are all on the agenda along with events and attractions revolving around the candidacy of the city of Paris for the 2024 Summer Olympic Games. A second venue at the Bassin de la Villette hosts nautical activities and a place to swim. And the beach is on all month through to September 1st.
DISNEYLAND PARIS www.disneylandparis.com RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy (40-65 minutes from Paris)
16 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Feature
A ROUND UP OF
R
By Patricia Valicenti
Rosés
efreshing rosé is a beverage of choice in and around the French capital offering many dreamy midsummer nights but also a glimpse of what the good earth of France can provide when guided by the hand of man. Rosé is produced in many a wine-growing region, here we take you to the south, a precious rosé making territory and then to the northern most vineyard in the country for some rosé or pink champagnes.
Rosé is a savant assembly of old vine plants of the Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault grape varieties grown in sandy limestone soil and the wine can be aged for up to two or three years. The domain produces a memorable Grand Vin Rosé with old vine plants of the Grenache and Syrah varieties grown in limestone terrain. Art and leisure are also on the agenda, for the domain exhibits 30 major contemporary works of art outdoors and there is a hotel on the grounds.
In the heart of the wilds of the Massif des Maures the Château Cavalier in Provence is exclusively devoted to the making of rosé wine. The good earth in this region is a result of a geographical fold of the Quaternary period and ranges from gravel soil to clay sands soils ideal for growing Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, three of the grape varieties used in assembling Château Cavalier along with the Rolle variety. The house uses local fermentations in its winemaking process to accentuate the taste of the land. The limited edition Grand Cavalier Côtes de Provence is a complex rosé bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Rolle grapes.
Organic is the order of the day at the Domain of Fontenille located in the Luberon where the sun coupled with the stony soil of the northern part of the domain makes for a well-structured, gastronomic wine. The domain’s new organic cru, Rosé 2018 du Domaine de Fontenille, is a bouquet of nuanced flavours ranging from citrus fruits to strawberry, rose and litchi. For the second year in a row the Fontenille rosé has been awarded the gold medal at the Paris Agricultural Show in the Organic Vintage Challenge.
In the heart of Provence is the enchanting domain of Château d’Esclans, a 19th century Tuscan-style villa surrounded by grounds of 267 hectares including 44 hectares of vineyards. Acquired by Sacha Lichine in 2006, the domain possesses old Grenache vine plants with the oldest being 90 years old making for grapes with highly concentrated aromas. The grapes that go into the making of the house’s Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence rosé are gathered only at night and in the morning with the varieties being mainly Grenache, Rolle and Cinsault. Meanwhile, also in the Vallée des Esclans, one finds the Château des Demoiselles whose owner and director is a woman, Aurélie Bertin. She is converting the domain into a model of sustainable development with the aim of obtaining the VDD label, the French acronym for Sustainable Development Winemakers. The Charme des Demoiselles Rosé Côtes de Provence 2018 makes for an ideal and refreshing summertime treat, which is a fine companion to carpaccios of meat or fish. The refined and grandiose Domain of Château La Coste rises up between Aix-en-Provence and the spectacular Luberon Natural Park. Spread out over 130 hectares, the domain produces fruity rosés that pair perfectly with Provençal cuisine. The domain’s Château La Coste 18 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Another leading rosé producing region in France is the LanguedocRoussillon nestled between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea. And in an original take on the wine, the house of Domaines Paul Mas fashions rosé wines that can be kept in the cellar for up to five years, offering wines that are full bodied, with the house’s grape variety of predilection being Cinsault, regarded as one of the noble varieties. The house also works with local fermentations, which assist in making wines that can be aged, albeit briefly compared to reds. New this year is Le Rosé by Paul Mas, an atypical assemblage of grape varieties: Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Pinot Gris, Caladoc and Cinsault. Rosé champagne is another refreshing way to sip rosé on its own or while supping. Champagne Collet comes to us from one of the celebrated regions of Champagne country, Aÿ. The house has brought out its Rosé Dry Collection Privée blending together 20 vintages that have been aged for four years. The champagne is available as well in a special boxed set replete with champagne bucket. Meanwhile, the house of Duval-Leroy has brought out its Cuvée Rosé Prestige Premier Cru, a dry and fruity summertime champagne with an aroma of wild cherries and composed exclusively with grands and premiers crus. And Nicolas Feuillatte has brought out its Réserve Exclusive Rosé filled with fine savours of red fruits and whose auspicious bottle is brimming with cherry tree branches.
Opposite page: The scenic vineyards of the Château des Demoiselles in Provence This page (clockwise from top left): The greeneryfilled terrace at the Grand Café Fauchon Paris; The gourmet picnic at the Waldorf Astoria Trianon Palace in Versailles; The secret inner courtyard terrace of Le Cinq Codet hotel; The ambiance at Le Papa Cabane
Le Papa Cabane Photo © Claire Dem
There are plenty of places to enjoy rosé both sparkling and still at a variety of venues in and around the French capital. Tucked away in the upscale seventh arrondissement of Paris is the secret inner courtyard terrace of Le Cinq Codet hotel for a refined rendezvous. The fun and festive Le Papa Cabane offers a brilliant and homey outdoor terrace with a musical ambiance right by Bercy Village, a complex of shops, restaurants and attractions located in the former wine storehouses of the capital. And for a royal way to enjoy rosé head to Versailles where the Waldorf Astoria Trianon Palace is offering up flavour-filled gourmet picnic baskets that you can order along with your favourite bottle of rosé to enjoy in the garden of the hotel or the very nearby grounds of the Château of Versailles. The picnic offer is available for non-guests as well. You can also sip on rosé at Le Grand Café Fauchon inside the sophisticated bar or the terrace hidden from view by greenery and overlooking the Madeleine church. Once a month the establishment organises a tasting in the presence of the wine makers, and you can also purchase the wines you taste in Fauchon’s wine cellar on the Place de la Madeleine. For a luxurious moment, you can enjoy Krug Rosé 23ème Edition champagne on its special terrace at the Shangri-La hotel, which is welcoming the prestigious house of Krug for the Terrasse Krug with the house’s champagnes paired with tapas flavoured with red pepper.
LE CINQ CODET 5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01 53 85 15 60
ADDRESS BOOK TERRASSE KRUG AT THE SHANGRILA 10 ave d’Iéna (16th) Reservations required 01 53 67 19 98
LE GRAND CAFÉ FAUCHON PARIS 2 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01 87 86 28 23 LE PAPA CABANE 2 rue Paul Belmondo (12th), 01 53 46 50 17
THE WALDORF ASTORIA TRIANON PALACE 1 blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 84 50 00 Call 01 31 84 51 00 for reservation with the concierge for the picnic baskets (call 45 minutes in advance) w w w.p ar i s m a p. fr 19
The Guide
SHOPPING
By Sandra Iskander
Angela wears Mr. Boho sunglasses Au Printemps earrings Paule Ka top Essentiel Antwerp belt and bag Lacoste skirt Primark shoes Turn to page 26 for more looks from our A View from the Top fashion shoot
20 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48
Photo © Alex Fadel
Accessories | Jewellery | Cool Sneakers | For Her | Department Stores
SHOPPING
Accessories
Versatile Time If there is one thing we appreciate it would have to be versatility, especially when it comes to clothes and accessories, and in particular when packing for a trip. Les Georgettes by Altesse have come up with the best way to minimise packing accessories without compromising style with the Coutures collection of bracelet watches. With different options for different moods, the watch face can be slipped into different bracelets, from standard watch leather straps to more fashionable cuff bracelets, adapting to a LBD or to a shorts and tee beach vibe with timeless ease, leaving space in our luggage for other necessities. - S.I. Les Georgettes by Altesse Boutique 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01 88 36 00 01
Star Specs Jennifer Lopez and her fiancé Alex Rodriguez have joined forces with Quay Australia to bring us a collection of sunglasses, for both him and her, to welcome the sunny days. The Quay x JLo collection is made up of 6 models, which embody the sexy singer, statement-making, shiny and over the top, while the Quay x A-Rod collection includes 5 models, which are in line with the ex-baseball player’s style, sleek. - S.I.
Les Georgettes © Steve Wells
Available at Citadium 50 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 55 31 74 00
w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 21
SHOPPING Jewellery
A Gateway to Dazzling Diamonds Luxury jewellery house Harry Winston has just released its Winston Gates collection, a gorgeous collection of rose window-inspired jewellery, and a nod to the house’s Fifth Avenue boutique gate that features rosettes. Earrings, rings, bracelets and pendant necklaces make up the romantic collection that works well day and night. Available in rose gold, yellow gold and platinum, each piece dazzles with its pavé setting of brilliant diamonds. - S.I. Harry Winston Boutique 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 03 09
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest collection, Oceano, is a refreshing line drawing inspiration from the marine world and is a summer winner for making a fashionable statement. The cruise collection, which includes necklaces, bracelets and earrings, is both playful and chic with shades of blue colouring the graphic designs with charming seahorses and fish ornamenting the pieces. - S.I. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51 22 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Harry Wonston necklace © Harry Winston
Under the Sea
SHOPPING
Accessories
Cool Sneakers 8
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1 - Furla 414 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 97 50 47 2 - Maje 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 96 84 93 3 - Minelli 2 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01 47 70 86 66 4 - Salvatore Ferragamo 45 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 36 37 5 - Tom Greyhound 19 rue de Saintonge (3rd), 01 44 61 36 59 6 - Puma 22 blvd de Sébastopol (4th), 01 44 59 65 15 7 - Mizuno Available at Shinzo Paris Boutique, 39 rue Etienne Marcel (1st), 01 42 36 40 57 8 - Le Coq Sportif 1 rue Montmartre (1st), 01 40 13 02 19 36 37 w w w.p ar i s m a p. fr 23
SHOPPING For Her
Ice-Cream Dreams By Sandra Iskander
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1 - Richard Mille 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01 40 15 10 00 2 - Annelise Michelson Available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 3 - Nuun Jewels 71 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 22 39 90 4 - Guerlain 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 52 57 5 - Swildens x Kusmi Tea Available at Swildens Boutique, 18 rue du Vieux Colombier (6th), 01 42 84 31 84 6 - Montagut x Cuisse de Grenouille Available at Maison Montagut Boutique, 15, Place du marché Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 33 35 08 7 - Eden Park Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 8 - La Métamorphose Available on www.lametamorphose.pl 9 - Blumarine 56 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 61 33 22 10 - Darjeeling 74 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01 43 45 14 20 11 - Pierre Marcolini 3 rue Scribe (9th), 01 44 71 03 74 12 - Maisons du Monde 5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99 24 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Richard Mille © Philippe Louzon 2018; La Métamorphose © Carlo Scarpato/Imaxtree.com; Montagut x Cuisse de Grenouille © Plume Heters Tannenbaum suite448 l’agence
5
Your summer shopping destination La Vallée Village – Paris
Are you ready for summer? Head to La Vallée Village which is bursting with fashion and events over the summer months and discover more than 110 fashion and lifestyle boutiques with savings of at least 33%* in a charming open-air setting. Open seven days a week, from 10am to 8.30pm in August, 40 minutes from the center of Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks.
YOUR EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS**: · Complimentary roundtrip from Paris with the Shopping Express® coach service when you book online at LaValleeVillage.com/ shoppingexpress using the code ‘LVWHERE’. · VIP Card for a further 10% reduction on the Village price in six boutiques of your choice · Complimentary Hands-free Shopping for an effortless experience · A refreshing treat at Amorino Gelato
#LaValleeVillage
*off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. **upon presentation of this page at our Welcome Center until 31/08/19 © La Vallée Village 2019
06/19
SHOPPING Fashion
Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Aurore Donguy Make-Up: Monica Bibalou Hair Stylist: Emrick Rongier Model: Angela Kajo of Mademoiselle Special thanks to Hôtel Plaza Athénée
A View from the Top 26 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Selima Optique x Michael Nelson sunglasses Elisabetta Franchi top Talbot Runhof pants Salvatore Ferragamo bag ASOS shoes w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 27
StÊphane Rolland coat and shoes Dawei skirt agnès b. belt Swarovski ring and bracelet 28 W H ER E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Kristina Fidelskaya jacket Karl Lagerfeld belt Margaux Lonnberg pants Chanel ring and J12 watch
w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 29
Junko Shimada hat Printemps dress Maison Boinet belt de Grisogono rings and bracelet Stuart Weitzman shoes
30 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Maison Michel visor & Other Stories jacket Chopard rings
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 31
Quay Australia sunglasses Isharya rings and bracelet Printemps top Delafon Paris bum bag Pleats Please Issey Miyake skirt Cosmoparis shoes
32 W H ER E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Begum Khan earrings Caroline Bliss dress Fendi bag Maison Ernest shoes
w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 33
LUXURY MAP
Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
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RUE RICHELIEU Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois
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Bonpoint IRO OU
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto
Hartford
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Galerie Véro-Dodat
Christian Louboutin
Place des Victoires
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by Terry Xavier Lust
Galerie Vivienne
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Musée du Louvre
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Galerie de Valois
15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
OPÉRA Kusmi Tea
•Cotélac
AV
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
Opéra Garnier
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•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil
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ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ
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•Christian Dior •Clergerie
Galerie de Montpensier
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
EV
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RUE DE RIVOLI
LEI RUE DE LA PA IX
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
FreyWille
Printemps du Louvre
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Vendôme
•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire
•Aésop
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Place
•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous
Vivienne • Westwood
SHOP STOP
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RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com
ONORÉ
Carrousel du Louvre
RUE S A IN T -H
The Kooples •
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TUILERIES
• Lipault
RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Delvaux •David Morris
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Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •
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Église de la Madeleine
•Chanel Chanel
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Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •
MADELEINE
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SHOP STOP
AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.
Dior U P H O
Max&Moi•
14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 / www.laulhere-france.com
Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara
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•Pucci
Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•
This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.
• Oliver Grant
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
Jeu de Paume
Jardin des Tuileries
•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère
BL
RUE DE RIVOLI
RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
LAULHÈRE
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Musée de l’Orangerie
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Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Sartore Miu Miu
Burberry
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Place de
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
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Aïzea
LUXURY MAP
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
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Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• •
L ’A R C A
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Chanel Dior
•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français Chaumet •
RUE DE
Oliver Grant
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Crockett &Jones SQUIER RUE PA
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Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara
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• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •
Yamamoto
In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.
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• Yohji
BUCHERER PARIS
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Lanvin
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• Jitrois • Saint Laurent • Boucheron • Givenchy Alessi • • Hermès
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Place de la Concorde
The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers. 16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
OM
ROQ
• Marina
•55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli • Hogan • Leonard Paris
Roger Vivier • Valentino • Heurgon • Djula • René Caovilla • Chanel • Tod’s • Cartier
B O U LE VA
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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H dau • r Au a ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris
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• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• Christian Louboutin • Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •
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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
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Gringoire Joaillier
Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe
Daniel Levy
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Galeries •Bartoux
RU
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
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SHOP STOP
IG LI O N E
Place
Vendôme
12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35
LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées - Montaigne
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Kenzo
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AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
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• GrandOptical • Bulgari
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Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie
• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany • Galeries RUE L Lafayette
• Dior •
RU
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RUE DE PONTHIEU
18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 / www.jlcopticien.com
EN
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• Swarovski
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Montblanc
GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple
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Armani Collezioni
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Publicis Drugstore •
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Place des États-Unis
RUE DE CHAI
In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Cartier, Dita, Thom Browne, Mikyta, Eyevan, Chanel, JLC Paris, Gucci and more...
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RUE JEAN GIRAU
57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com
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Fabio Caviglia•
BERETTA GALLERY
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Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.
Arc de Triomphe
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Zadig & Voltaire
Dammann • •Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel
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Grand Palais
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RU
ALBERT
36 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
COURS
38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com
NFÉRENCE
Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.
PORT DE LA CO
MAJESTIC 38
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Elie Saab • ROOSEV D. IN NKL
•Adidas
ATIG
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LUXURY MAP Vendôme
Gare Saint-Lazare
SHOP STOP
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E
RUE SAINT-LAZARE
Passage du Havre
Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant
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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray N H Dunhill C O Corthay Guerin • U B Y Cartier • • Christophe ED AM RU • OLNE Piaget EC • Diesel V RU • Hugo Boss E Maître Parfumeur • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo X • Van et Gantier IWC • PA I Dinh • • DE LA ••Fred Alexander McQueen • • UE •Goralska Cartier Emporio Armani R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo Bvlgari •Daum • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T EVA
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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
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Savoir-faire, knowledge and French heritage are the hallmarks of contemporary shoemaker Corthay. The house was founded in 1990 by master craftsman Pierre Corthay who was honoured with the Maître d’Art distinction by the French Minister of Culture. The Maison Corthay embodies French knowhow in the art and craft of bootmaking be it inside its Parisian workshop or in its own manufacture in the heart of the Mauges region of France.
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Discover the newly refurbished Dubail boutique on the prestigious Place Vendôme. Take a walk in this elegant and refined boutique to find and purchase the worlds most exclusive and finest timepieces and the most exquisite jewelry by Maison Dubail in this temple dedicated to prestige.
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38 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
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4 rue des Quatre Vents, Paris 6th Tel : + 33( 0)1 44 07 37 64 www.sabre.fr
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Poiray Jo • LiuFaçonnable • RUE VA R U CI Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE • Repeat Sonia • • RM • AIN Rykiel Chaumet Cashmere Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • • Lejaby LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • Ecco Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Le Minor • Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops • • U FOUR Alain Mikli • • Sabre La Perla• D • Durance RUE Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE •TS M.A.C.• •Repetto • E VEN R T A Français U ES Q Omega Heschung RUE D • S E Berluti • VR • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Saint Laurent Longines Camper • • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • Tumi • Maje Eres• • • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • • RU
Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles.
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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris
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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!
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Made in France-Meant to Travel, crafted in Paris with highest care, Justine Red bags are designed for a well travelled, active and elegant woman looking for a light and chic bag to follow her 24-7. The Saint-Germain-des-Prés boutique displays all the collections in various sizes and colors plus limited editions.
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Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford • Marionnaud Paris RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • Baker Repetto • • • RU•E DES FRANCS BOUR•GE•OITed •Mademoiselle S ••• Iro • Sandro Michael Jeanne • • Essentiel • Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • Bimba y Lola • • IZIPIZI Devernois • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D• • Cos ES Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Sandro• Moscot • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •Ugg • • Lacoste • Fleux Gucci• John Galliano RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Givenchy • •Maje Le BHV Marais • Moncler Crockett Lagerfeld• ILE & Jones • RUE DU ROI DE SIC • l’Homme Chevignon TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • LI O IV R E D RUE ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul • Psyché Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane RUE
18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com
• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty
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PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.
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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr
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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !
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In the heart of Le Marais, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more... 19 rue de Bretagne, Paris - 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 44 54 06 26 www.jlcopticien.com
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The Guide
ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti
Discover 200 photos of the iconic Marilyn at the Galerie Joseph Turenne (opposite page) 40 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Marilyn Monroe Photographed by Milton H. Greene © 2019 Joshua Greene www.archiveimages.com
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Marilyn Monroe Photographed by Milton H. Greene © 2019 Joshua Greene www.archiveimages.com; Pablo Picasso La Baie de Cannes Cannes, 19 avril 1958 - 9 juin 1958 Huile sur toile 130 x 195 cm Musée national Picasso-Paris Dation Pablo Picasso, 1979 © RMN-Grand Palais / Mathieu Rabeau © Succession Picasso 2019
Exhibitions
Marilyn Divine Marilyn, an exhibition at the Galerie Joseph Turenne brings together for the first time in France the photographs of three of the leading names in American photography, Sam Shaw, Milton Greene and Bert Stern, all of whom immortalised Marilyn Monroe in what are now some of the most famous photographs in the world. “Photographing Marilyn is like photographing light,” Bert Stern would say. The show brings together over 200 photographs and documents, with a space of 50 photographs by Sam Shaw, who photographed her in her private and professional life between 1952 and 1962, presenting pictures, notably, of her first year of marriage to the playwright Arthur Miller. In another corner 50 photographs by Milton Greene are on show including the star dressed as a ballerina. Bert Stern would photograph Marilyn Monroe a few days before her death and 12 large format photographs from the Last Sitting, as this shoot is known, are on display. Eight photographs by André de Dienes, on loan from the celebrated New York Gallery StaleyWise, are on display depicting some of the very first photographs of Norma Jeane Baker, as Marilyn was then known. - P.V. Showing through to September 22nd 116 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01 42 71 20 22
Mediterranean Meanderings An exhibition is underway at the Musée Picasso Paris revolving around the relationship Pablo Picasso had with the Mediterranean Sea and its environs. Entitled Picasso, Obstinately Mediterranean, the show looks at the rich links the artist had with this geographical setting starting with his landscapes of Spanish ports through to the workshops of the last years of his life by way of the seaside towns of the Riviera and the South of France notably Antibes, Vallauris and Cannes. Myriad works are on show emanating from the rich collection of the Musée Picasso Paris and loans from other institutions. Among the works on display are his Bay of Cannes in billowing blues, his Bullfight Under a Black Sun and his celebrated and monumental The Pan Pipes. - P.V. Showing through to October 6th 5 rue de Thorigny (3rd), 01 85 56 00 36 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 41
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions
Jackie Twenty-five years after her death, she continues to fascinate and continues on as one of the legends of elegance and style. In an exhibition entitled Jackie, an Icon, the Galerie Joseph Minimes is presenting an exhibition devoted to Jackie Kennedy’s youth and the Kennedy years when she was married to the most powerful man in the world. The show brings together 100 photographs retracing the incredible destiny of a woman who would become the First Lady of the United States of America. Jacqueline Lee Bouvier was born into a wealthy New York family in 1929 and would marry John F. Kennedy, the future president, in 1953. Upon taking up residence at the White House she undertook its restoration and transformed the presidential home into a window of creativity inviting painters, musicians, writers and scientists to state dinners where they mixed with politicians, diplomats and heads of state. - P.V.
Into the Economy A new museum opened up in Paris in June devoted to the economy. Christened Citéco, the City of the Economy, it hosts a permanent exhibition, a café and a boutique. Visitors enter into a sumptuous décor inside the Gaillard mansion, which was a branch office of the Banque de France, and are initiated into the world of the economy through six sequences: Exchanges, the Players, Markets, Instabilities, Regulations, Treasures, with the final sequence presenting objects linked to the way the bank functions. The museum offers a wide variety of approaches to the subject with 58 original videos, 26 individual and collective multi-media games, 15 interactive manipulations, 390 objects and 60 photographs. The venue also has an auditorium, pedagogical workshop spaces, a temporary exhibition space and conferences, master classes and live shows are all on the agenda. Citéco is the initiative of the Banque de France, the country’s central bank. - P.V. 1 place du Général-Catroux (17th), 01 86 47 10 10 42 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
John and Jackie Kennedy © Bridgeman; Citéco © Banque de France, Agence Confino
Showing through to September 1st 16 rue des Minimes (3rd), 01 42 71 20 22
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
© Jerry Schatzberg, Le marché aux poissons 1958; Masque cimier. Bois dur polychromé, noir (enduit résineux), ocre rouge foncé, blanc, bleu indigo. Vers 1930 © musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, photo Patrick Gries
Exhibitions
Showing Schatzberg Catherine Deneuve with wet hair and a cigarette, the Rolling Stones in drag, a fish market, legendary photographs by legendary photographer and filmmaker, Jerry Schatzberg. The Domaine de Chamarande is presenting a retrospective of his celebrated photographs in an exhibition entitled Off Grand Concourse with the title referring to the photographer’s childhood in the New York City borough of the Bronx and its major roadway, the Grand Concourse. Schatzberg is regarded as one of the finest photographers of his generation embarking on his career in the 1950s and who contributed to major magazines, notably Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Life and Glamour. The show, held in the spectacular setting of the Domaine Départemental de Chamarande, is curated by Olivier Lorquin, the president of the Fondation Dina Vierny-Musée Maillol. - P.V. Showing through to September 1st 38 rue du Commandant Arnoux, 91730 Chamarande, 01 60 82 52 01
Journey within a Journey A painted tunic decorated with hair from the mane of a horse, a magical zoomorphic statue, masks and headdresses from faraway lands are just a few of the objects passengers at the Aéroport Paris-Charles de Gaulle can discover. The Espace Musées, located in the airport, is welcoming the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac for a show devoted to travelling with a selection of major works from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas representative of the museum’s vast collections, which cover a period spanning six thousand years. Entitled Journeys of Explorers, the exhibition offers today’s travellers another journey filled with discoveries. - P.V; Through to October 6th Aéroport Paris-Charles de Gaulle (Terminal 2 E Hall M-Departures), 77990 Roissy-en-France, 01 44 13 76 94 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 43
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments
Arc de Triomphe - Place de l’Etoile
The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité
9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon
Sacré-Coeur
SAINTE-CHAPELLE
Luxembourg Garden
PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS La Conciergerie
EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily
Eiffel Tower
44 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Through to September 1st Un Air d’Italie, the exhibition explores the history of the French lyrical scene with Italy. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
Opéra de Paris
A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. JanMar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
Tuileries Garden
Photos iStock 2019 Arc de Triomphe © pawel.gaul; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy; Luxembourg Garden, Fontaine Medicis © mdmworks; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Sacré-Coeur © Golero ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
WHERE PARIS PROMOTION
YACHTS DE PARIS THE DON JUAN II RESTAURANT
S
et sail for an exceptional and spectacular dinner-cruise on board the Don Juan II, the gourmet and gastronomic journey from Yachts de Paris. Superb, mysterious and attractive, the Don Juan II welcomes you on board for an unforgettable moment. The journey is sublime, refined and thoroughly gourmet, offering the finest French gastronomy. It is the quintessence of Parisian chic for a business or private dinner. The beautifully appointed Don Juan II departs from the private landing of the Yachts de Paris at the Port Henri IV on the banks of the Seine right across from the Cathedral of NotreDame to head out onto the stunning waterway punctuated by some of the world’s most beautiful monuments and edifices: Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre, the Conciergerie and more, so much more. The yacht’s panoramic windows offer a perfect viewing perspective onto the capital of France.
highly professional while the tables are spaced apart, offering an even more select experience. The full-course gourmet menu begins with a gastronomic hors d’oeuvre before embarking upon an appetizer, a main course, cheese and dessert followed by miniature pastries, the famous and uniquely French mignardises. Meanwhile optional top-of-the-line services are available on request for example luxury car service, a bouquet of roses, a special birthday
dessert making this exceptional experience even more exceptional.
Dinner Cruise from 8:30pm to 11:15pm. Boarding from 7:45pm to 8:15pm. The cruise last for 2 hours 45 minutes. Yachts de Paris - Port Henri IV 75004 Reservations at + 33 (0)1 44 54 14 71 By e-mail: reservations.dj2@ydp.fr donjuan2.yachtsdeparis.fr
EXCLUSIVE OFFER: A COMPLIMENTARY GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE WITH THE CODE WHERE 2019
The glamorous adventure begins on the terrace for some sumptuous champagne sipping before stepping inside the luxuriously appointed interior, a celebration to the elegant style of Art Déco, to savour a totally gourmet experience. As you cruise the river you will be treated to the amazing cuisine of Guy Krenzer, the director of creation at the house of Lenôtre, who has twice been awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France compensation, in 1988 and in 1996. A sublime food and wine pairing has been carefully chosen for you by Olivier Poussier who was named the World’s Best Sommelier in 2000 and is the Head Sommelier at Lenôtre. Service on board is personalised, discrete and w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 45
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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
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PARIS
Paris Flea Market
Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.
IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY
ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées
A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Olwen Forest
Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga
Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Richard Orlinski
This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Opera Gallery
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde
ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles
Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and 46 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris
Carré Rive Gauche
This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
www.parismap.fr SCAN TO DISCOVER!
DIGITAL MAP
a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Atelier des Lumières
A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Flight Experience Paris
You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare
FlyView
Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra
France Miniature
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt
Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée
Grande Arche
Ballon de Paris
La Mer de Sable
This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée
Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel
Catacombes de Paris
The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau
This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are three major shows, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. There is a shuttle bus from La Porte Maillot on certain days, reservations at 07.71.37.28.79 or by car from Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7.
Le Manoir de Paris
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau
Parc Zoologique de Paris
This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
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de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.
& 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf
Parc Asterix
River Limousine
This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).
Rex Studios
Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Thoiry Zoo Safari
This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67
BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens
Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches
The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus
A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12
Vedettes du Pont Neuf
These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon
Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37
Vedettes de Paris
Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
Giverny
Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21
France Miniature | ATTRACTIONS
Musée National du Château de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde
Jardin du Luxembourg
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon
GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris
Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra
Paris Authentic
This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19
Paris City Vision
City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
Retro Tour
Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07
MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou
France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. Wed-
Mer de Sable | ATTRACTIONS w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 47
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book
Mon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro
Dali Paris
In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers
La Maison de Victor Hugo
This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design
This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz
MAD
A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal
Fondation Louis Vuitton
Mona Bismarck American Center
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
Institut Giacometti
This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail
Institut du Monde Arabe
Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu
The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna
Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti
This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme
A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville
Musée des Arts et Métiers
National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers
La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy
Retro Tour | GUIDED TOURS 48 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides
This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne
Musée Cernuschi
The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau
Musée Cognacq-Jay
This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul
Musée Grévin
A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet
This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/ Boissière
Musée en Herbe
The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace
Musée de l’Homme
Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of
The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned
Musée d’Orsay | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Address Book
prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro
Musée de la Vie Romantique
A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche
Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil
Musée du Louvre
One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée de la Magie
A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir
The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard
Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra
Musée Marmottan Monet
A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm,
Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle
A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner
This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes
Musée de l’Orangerie
In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
Musée d’Orsay
A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac
An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
Musée Picasso
A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Musée Rodin
Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 6:30pm, last tickets at 5:45pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne
Parc Zoologique de Paris | ATTRACTIONS
Musée du Vin
Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau
Palais de la Découverte
This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Palais de Tokyo
Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna
Petit Palais
The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique
This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin
PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre
Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Musée Rodin | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 49
The Guide
DINING
Dine on contemporary cuisine at the new Coco (page 52)
50 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Coco Opéra © Romain Ricard
World Food | Contemporary Cuisine | French Fare | Bistros | Fine Dining
DINING
Restaurants
A Culinary Voyage The 16th arrondissement in Paris is having a muchneeded injection of cool. The neighbourhood known for its posh residents leaning towards a more mature age group is slowly attracting a younger, cooler crowd, and with such a demanding demographic only great restaurants need apply, enter La Gare. This former train station, which was transformed into a contemporary French restaurant in the 90s, was recently taken over by Moma Group, the name behind some of Paris’s trendiest restaurants including Manko and Noto. The restaurant boasts a large outdoor dining area, perfect for the warmer days, to enjoy dishes overseen by chef Gastón Acurio. The menu spoils diners for choice with dishes influenced by Peru, Mexico, Japan and of course France. Tacos, sushi and French farmhouse pork chops are all on the menu, taking you on a culinary voyage with a stopover in cocktail-ville for great happy hour options, including an intoxicating Pisco Sour. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner, with brunch served every Sunday from 12 to 3pm. – S.I.
La Gare © Jérôme Galland; Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Cabana Cafe by Hana Le Van
La Gare 19 Chaussée de la Muette (16th), 01 42 15 15 31
California Dreamin’ The posh Plaza Athénée hotel takes you to Beverly Hills for a chic afternoon courtesy of its ephemeral Cabana Café. Under its signature red awnings, settle in for milkshakes, cocktails and salads while taking in the view of one of the French capital’s most famous shopping avenues. The seasonal café is open from midday to midnight and is the perfect rendezvous for a casual, yet very chic, lunch, snack or dinner. Shaded by palm trees why not order the Secret Garden cocktail and the Sunset Club sandwich, taking your taste buds to California while feasting your eyes on Parisian glamour. – S.I. Cabana Café 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 75 18 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 51
DINING
Restaurants
Contemporary Coco From the same team that runs several of the most fashionable restaurants in Paris, including Monsieur Bleu, Loulou, Girafe and Apicius, Coco is a glamorous new table at the gorgeous Opéra Garnier in the heart of Paris. Offering a big beautiful terrace for outdoor dining and a sumptuous dining room with olive green velvet arm chairs and plump banquettes, Coco is open daily and serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, and the menu offers light stylish contemporary dishes like shrimp carpaccio with smoked avocado, sea bream tartare with Granny Smith apples and seaweed, John Dory with a sauce vierge, grilled rock lobster with miso rice, steak with sauce Béarnaise and wonderful desserts, including an Opera (fine layers of chocolate with coffee cream) and strawberry tart. – Alexander Lobrano Coco 1 Place Jacques-Rouche (9th), 01 42 68 86 80
After serving as head chef at Laurent, a fashionable power table in the gardens of the Champs Elysees, Alain Pégouret has taken over Le Sergent Recruteur, a stylish table on the Ile Saint-Louis and given this delightful island in the Seine the excellent gastronomic table it was previously lacking. Working in an open kitchen at the back of a chic contemporary dining room, Pégouret’s menu evolves with the season but his contemporary French cooking is consistently elegant, refined and delicious. Expect dishes like foie gras poached in sangria with grapefruit and rhubarb, chicken roasted with black garlic, and chocolate biscuit infused with ginger with cocoa sorbet. Note, too, that they serve small-plates like sautéed girolles mushrooms, cod ceviche, and vitello tonnato at the very comfortable bar in the entry of the restaurant, which makes this address as perfect for a quick light meal as it is for a romantic gourmet feast. – A.L. Le Sergent Recruteur 41 rue Saint Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01 43 54 75 42 52 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Coco Opéra © Romain Ricard; Le Sergent Recruteur, Le Sergent Recruteur © Romain Zarka
Dining on a Parisian Island
MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32
BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27 Seafood take away
Open Daily - Valet Service - Patios - Private Rooms
New summer carte : all inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif - Starter - Main course - Dessert - Wine - Coffee
www.legrandbistro.fr
LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris
d o r r Paris
MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37
SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37
Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Private Rooms
Amazing seefood platters Paris’ largest oysters bar New summer carte Cap Ferret menu 45€
DINING
Restaurants
On the Edge of the City La Défense, the distinctive forest of skyscrapers that are home to several of the largest companies in France on the western edge of Paris, is a part of the city that visitors rarely discover, but two large terraces, one overlooking a fountain and the other with beautiful views of Paris, Octopus, the new table by the Rostang family makes it a great night out for summertime dining al fresco. With a great list of cooling cocktails, and interesting tapas like grilled octopus, oyster and sea bass tartare, and cheese croquettes, plus appealing mains like steamed cod with summer vegetables and grilled Basque sausage, it’s a great break from the heat in the heart of the city and is easily reached by metro. – A.L. Octopus 1 Esplanade de La Défense, Puteaux, 01 84 20 06 58
It’s not surprising that Le Colvert, a friendly affordable bistro with good food and a pleasant dining room right in the heart of Saint-Germaindes-Prés has become a big hit ever since it opened a few months ago. This is because it can be a challenge to find well-cooked traditional French food in a neighbourhood that’s filled with sushi restaurants and Italian tables. Start with salmon marinated with beets, a Caesar salad or the millefeuille de legumes with feta and dill vinaigrette, and then tuck into sea bass with spelt risotto, duck breast with sweet potato purée or a steak with potato purée and Sarawak pepper sauce. The strawberry vacherin with peach sorbet and basil is an ideal summertime ending to a pleasant meal here. – A.L. Le Colvert 54 rue Saint Andre des Arts (6th), 01 42 03 73 67 54 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Octopus © Pierre Lucet Penato
Bistro Dining
DINING
Restaurants Advertorial DJAKARTA BALI
AU COIN DES GOURMETS
Indonesian cuisine
Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com st
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.
438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr
This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.
LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.
20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr
w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 55
Address Book
DINING
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)
Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro
Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)
The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
FOOD & WINE Beaupassage
This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac
Fauchon
A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite
This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host
of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette
La Maison Plisson This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart
Nicolas The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine
AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€) A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles
Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)
The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)
Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)
This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides
This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Yachts de Paris | CLASSIC FRENCH (4th) 56 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Clover Grill | STEAKHOUSE (1st)
DINING
Address Book
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th)
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Breakfast in America - American (€€)
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
Bofinger - Brasserie
(€€)
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€) In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-
walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€) This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon- Sat D. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€) A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€) Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€) Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€) In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€) Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
L’Ambroisie | HAUTE CUISINE (4th)
Relais Louis XIII | CLASSIC FRENCH (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 57
DINING
Address Book AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Les Ombres - Contemporary
(€€€€)
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Le Récamier - Classic French
(€€)
This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone
AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)
An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
This 2-star gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
Monsieur - French (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)
Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the
This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V
Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
(€€€)
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau
This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an
This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau
Verde by Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)
This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up a fresh and inventive tapas menu and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. Tues-Sun D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V
AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)
This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Les Ombres | CONTEMPORARY (7th) 58 W HE RE PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Monsieur | FRENCH (8th)
DINING
Address Book followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau
Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)
This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed
atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes
AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th)
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse
Benkay - Japanese (€€€)
This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. A nice dessert is the crepe made on the hotplate and served with ice-cream. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. M° Dupleix
TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)
Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin
Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)
This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière
This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna
La Scène Thélème - Gourmet
(€€€€)
This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include
Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt
ReminiSens - Classic French
(€€€€)
This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Le Céladon | GOURMET (2nd)
La Scène Thélème | GOURMET (17th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 59
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Celebrate 100 years of the Negroni cocktail at Crillon’s Yacht Club (opposite page)
60 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Hotel de Crillon Yacht Club 2019 © Aimery Chemin
Pop-Up Bars | Al Fresco Cocktails | Concerts | Cabarets | Clubs | Wine Bars
ENTERTAINMENT Pop-Up Bars
A Celebratory Drink Hôtel de Crillon’s La Terrasse Gabriel has transformed itself into the Yacht Club for guests to pop in for an Italian escape. The ephemeral Yacht Club is open until early October and not only does it delight with its colourful décor, created by artist Alexandre Benjamin Navet, it also kicks into gear the celebrations for the 100th anniversary of Florence’s most famous drink, the Negroni. To mark the occasion, the menu here features three original Negroni cocktails, including the N100 Celebration made with Campari and Mezcal. The Yacht Club is open daily from 12 to 10pm. - S.I.
Hotel de Crillon Yacht Club 2019 ©Aimery Chemin; Mademoiselle Mouche ©Pierre Cazana
Cour Gabriel 6 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 44 71 15 00
Party on the Seine Summer in Paris means sun, Seine and rosé and this year the hottest spot to indulge in all three is Mademoiselle Mouche. The pop-up rooftop bar serves up chilled rosé, original cocktails and the best view of the city with the Eiffel Tower at arm’s length. Stools overlooking the River Seine are the hottest seats in the house, offering a view of the passing boats and the city’s gorgeous architecture. The bar, perched on the quay where Bateaux-Mouches cruise boats are moored, is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 6pm to 1am and from 4pm on Sundays, with the pumping music guiding you to it. - S.I. Mademoiselle Mouche Port de la Conférence – Pont de l’Alma (8th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 61
ENTERTAINMENT
Al Fresco Cocktails
Al Fresco Drinks Le Perchoir de l’Est is back for the fourth year to bring Parisians and international visitors one of the best spots to enjoy a cocktail al fresco. The Le Perchoir bars are famous for offering guests magnificent views of the City of Light with the BHV Marais rooftop bar serving up a front row seat to the Hôtel de Ville, the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame, and here at the Gare de l’Est locale the backdrop is a confidential perspective of one of the oldest train stations in the city. Perched above the station, the bar is romantically located under the Eiffel rose window and looks onto one of the entrances to the busy station, creating quite the peoplewatching spot with travellers spotted coming in and out of the station, setting an energetic atmosphere while cocktails are served. The bar, which is open only during the warmer season, is set in an otherwise no-access area of the station, is a wonderful spot for al fresco cocktails while surrounded by gorgeous bouquets of flowers, delicately breaking up an otherwise very bustling location. Le Perchoir de l’Est is open from 6pm, from 4pm on Fridays and 2pm on the weekends. Guests are invited to reserve by emailing resabar@leperchoir.fr otherwise walk-ins are very welcome. - S.I.
Cocktails with a Grande View The French capital’s business district is becoming the city’s party district with the recent opening of The Skyroom. The Grande Arche is moving its restaurant bar to its rooftop for us to enjoy cocktails with a great view. Music and signature cocktails are on the menu every Tuesday and Thursday night where you can party 110 metres above Paris from 6 to 11.30pm. The summer pop-up boasts 5 bars and a revolving door of entertainment including acrobats and even a temporary tattoo stall. - S.I.
62 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
The Skyroom 1 Parvis de la Défense, 92800 Puteaux, 01 40 90 52 20
Le Perchoir de l’Est © Aude Boissaye & Sebastien Rande / Studio Cui Cui
Le Perchoir de l’Est 10 Place du 11 Novembre 1918 (10th), 06 32 57 78 38
CLASSICAL MUSIC
CONCERTS IN SAINTE-CHAPELLE An unforgettable experience in the world’s most stunning Gothic chapel
Book your tickets directly at www.classictic.com/euromusic Call +33 1 42 77 65 65 or ask your hotel concierge
ENTERTAINMENT Concerts
A New Cocktail Bar Disco fever takes over Baby Doll, the new cocktail bar in the 2nd arrondissement. Velvet poufs, mirrored tables and plush floral carpet invite you into what feels like a sexy time capsule to enjoy a signature cocktail while listening to a great playlist that mixes the tunes of the 70s and 80s. The team here is adorable and serve fun and original cocktails that are inspired by the classics. Try the Bloody and G, a new take on the Bloody Mary, made with horseradish-infused gin. The bar is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 6pm until midnight on Sundays and until 2am on the other nights. - S.I. Baby Doll 16 rue Daunou (2nd), 06 47 94 32 10
Sainte-Chapelle, a gothic royal chapel that boasts magical stained-glass windows that transform into jewels when the sunlight shines through them, is welcoming Vivaldi, Mozart and Handel for exceptional concerts taking place this month. Throughout the month of August, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Euromusic will be hosting classical concerts with music from the greats being played out in a breathtaking setting. Concerts begin at 8pm, though it is advised to arrive 30 minutes earlier. Tickets can be purchased at Fnac or at www.euromusicproductions.fr. - S.I. Sainte-Chapelle 8 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80 64 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Babydoll by Narcisse (l’Eau à la bouche)
An Unforgettable Concert
ADVERTORIAL
Bel Canto, Dining Opera Show Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young professional opera stars of the future. Daily D only from 7:30pm. OPEN IN AUGUST!
72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie Tel: 01 42 78 30 18 6 rue du commandant Pilot 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine Tel: 01 47 47 19 94 www.lebelcanto.com
Sans titre-5 1
01/06/2017 ww w. p a r i s m a11:51 p. fr 65
ENTERTAINMENT Cabarets
Paris is a Cabaret Moulin Rouge
Lido
CRAZY HORSE
LIDO
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-anddance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 . M° George V
PARADIS LATIN
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32. M° Alma-Marceau
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.
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66 WH E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
© Moulin Rouge ® S.Franzese; Lido ® Pascaline Labarrere; Paradis Latin
ONLINE READERSHIP SURVEY
Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 . M° Blanche
Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, starting on May 2nd, Oiseau Paradis is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm.
Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €185 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77
MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM
Address Book
ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille
Buddha-Bar
This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries
Hotel Providence
Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis
Ice Kube Paris
The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy
Ice Kube Paris | BARS & WINE BARS (18th) 68 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
Kléber Bar
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière
Le Bristol Bar
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
Le Bar
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf
Les Ambassadeurs
Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. The menu here boasts over 100 champagne references and signature cocktails include the orange vodka-based Parisian Mule. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. M° Concorde
Moonshiner
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin
Prescription Cocktail Club
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
CASINO Casinos Barrière
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
Le Lucien Bar
JAZZ CLUBS
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
Le Rubis
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous
Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one
Moonshiner | BARS & WINE BARS (11th)
ENTERTAINMENT
Address Book
of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
Le Mona Lisa
Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS
Les Bains
Pink Paradise
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Duplex
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Social Club
This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau
Medellin
This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. M° Alma-Marceau
Pachamama
This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented
L’Arc Paris | NIGHT CLUBS (16th)
while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards
Vanity Paris
This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal
MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul
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The Guide
SERVICES
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris HAIR SALONS Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde
Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6 ), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’OpéraLouis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde th
LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10
First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44
REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin
Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon
Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde
RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr
70 W HER E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
PARIS DISTRICTS 1 ARRONDISSEMENT st
The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.
2nd ARRONDISSEMENT
Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.
3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT
Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.
5th ARRONDISSEMENT
Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.
6th ARRONDISSEMENT
The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.
9th ARRONDISSEMENT
Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Blvd Haussmann.
10th ARRONDISSEMENT
Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.
11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT
The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.
13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.
16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT
7th ARRONDISSEMENT
The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.
8th ARRONDISSEMENT
Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.
Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.
18th ARRONDISSEMENT
19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT
Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.
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SERVICES
Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
72 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.
◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
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w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73
My Paris
MICKAEL CAVARD
HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL BARRIERE LE FOUQUET’S PARIS
Le Joy at Fouquet’s Paris
Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? I would definitely recommend a sightseeing tour of the city either from the River Seine on a private boat or for a more authentic experience with the famous French car Citroën 2 CV. Both ways, you will be able to discover most of the monuments in the city. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Here is my top three: For a fancy dinner, I love to suggest the restaurant Lasserre, this 1 Michelin star restaurant offers excellent traditional French cuisine and the room has an amazing ceiling that opens up to the sky. For an informal and relaxed experience, I would recommend our hotel restaurant Le Joy. We propose a contemporary cuisine to suit all tastes. If the weather is good, ask for a table in our garden, which is a true haven of peace. Last but not least, I would go to the bistro Les Marches for an authentic and casual experience. The place has kept all its charm offering generous, traditional French dishes. You come here for the good-natured atmosphere, to eat well and especially to escape the tourist crowds of the Golden Triangle. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? I would suggest without hesitation l’Arc
74 W HE R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2019
Angelina
de Triomphe as it offers a magnificent 360-degree view of Paris. I would also choose the Orsay Museum. It used to be a train station and now it is the temple for lovers of Impressionism. Louis Vuitton foundation will be my third choice, first of all for the incredible Frank Gehry architecture but also for its temporary exhibitions. If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? Without hesitation on the Right Bank. I would suggest shopping on Avenue Montaigne and Rue Saint-Honoré for high-end fashion. Also, do not hesitate to visit the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées, a new concept store that showcases the latest fashion items. Still on the Right Bank I love to recommend the Marais district for shopping as it offers a large selection of unknown designer shops. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? Definitely Montmartre. Right in front of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica, you have a panoramic view of Paris. It is definitely a district where you can lose yourself in the small streets and visit unusual places such as the Montmartre Museum, the “I love you” wall and even some small vineyards. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots.
Parc Astérix
As a first choice, I would go to the Gallery of Evolution, which is great for kids. If weather permits, the zoo located at Vincennes is a great place to visit. Parc Astérix is also one of my suggestions as it is fun for children. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? Prescription Cocktail Club is my favourite one in town. Everything is there to enjoy a good evening: great cocktails, trendy crowds and fun ambiance. I also like the hidden speakeasy bar of the Jacopo restaurant. You have to pass through the kitchen corridors to reach this spot. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? For a great teatime, I would stop at Angelina, which is located right in front of the Tuileries gardens, on Rue de Rivoli. Their hot chocolate and Mont-Blanc pastry are a must.
My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Ladurée on the ChampsElysées, and then enjoy a walk in the Golden Triangle and a visit of the Arc de Triomphe. 12pm: Lunch at the Brasserie Le Fouquet’s. 3pm: Cruise on the River Seine, then a walk on the docks. 7pm: Have a drink with the Parisian crowd at Mademoiselle Mouche. 9pm: Casual and friendly dinner at the bistro Les Marches.
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Le Fouquets Barrière Paris © Fabrice Rambert; Parc Asterix © C.Sobzyk; Angelina © A.Rinuccini; Musée d’Orsay iStockphoto 2019 © Andrey Krav
Orsay Museum
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A L C O H O L A B U S E I S DA N G E R O U S F O R T H E H E A LT H . C O N S U M E W I T H M O D E R AT I O N .