WhereTraveler Paris — October 2019 by Where Paris

OC T OBE R 2 0 19

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 309

Fall into N M U T U A L U F R U O L A CO FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

THE OLDEST JEWELLER IN THE WORLD IS IN PARIS

MELLERIO 9, RUE DE LA PAIX 75002 PARIS FRANCE TÃ&#x2030;L: +33 (0)1 42 61 57 53 WWW.MELLERIO.FR

October PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

8 12

Hot Dates

Meet the talented French chef who is celebrating Provençal cuisine

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

10 Things Not to Miss in Bordeaux

44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The Recipe for Chef Frédéric Duca’s Delicious Career We take you on a trip to the famous wine region

18 SHOPPING

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 58 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 68 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings OC T OBE R 2 0 19

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 309

Fall into TUMN A COLOURFUL AU

GIRAFESIA PHOT

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

WP OCTOBER 2019 COVER def.indd 1

10/09/2019 16:46

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

We publish editions in Chinese (biannual) and Russian (annual). ®

RUSSIAN EDITION

PARIS - CHINESE EDITION THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF UNIONPAY

银联官

方指南

Откройте для себя

Париж

助您探索巴黎

и многое другое

精品店

Dine on Japanese fusion at Ran (page 59)

DISCOVER WHERE PARIS EVERY MONTH IN PARIS’S MOST LUXURIOUS AND BEAUTIFUL HOTELS

餐厅

景点

古迹

PARIS | PROVENCE | COTE D’AZUR | BORDEAUX

They are available on the concierge desk and in-room at all our partner hotels. Where is the largest global publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and operating in 76 cities worldwide. Facebook.com/WhereParis Twitter.com/whereparis instagram.com/wheremagazine

Scan to watch our latest interview

PARIS. MY WAY by where

4 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Ran © Jérôme Galland

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

ON THE COVER

Leelou wears a Maison Michel hat, Annelise Michelson earrings, Michael Kors jacket, Fendi top, skirt and socks, an Roger Vivier shoes. Cover Photo © Alex Fadel Turn to page 26 for more of our Kickin’ Back in Paris photo shoot

Time ﬁnds a new home in the heart of Paris.

Visit us from the 24th of October and experience our watchmaking artistry from up-close:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE PARIS Hôtel Costes · 241 Rue Saint-Honoré · 75001 Paris www.alange-soehne.com

Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com www.parismap.fr

The City of Light is renowned around the world for being the culinary

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

capital and in this issue we meet Frédéric Duca, one of France’s

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com

talented chefs who is leaving a delicious mark on the city courtesy of

EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

his new restaurant, Rooster.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

After meeting the chef we then take you on a voyage to Bordeaux, and while the bourgeoisie city is known for its wines, the city is also bursting with wonderful things to do and see. Make sure you turn to our 10 Things to See in Bordeaux feature for what will surely inspire you to organise a weekend away.

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko ADVERTISING  KEY ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon* DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

Visiting Paris, the fashion capital, is of course never complete without a little, or a lot, of shopping. In our Kickin’ It in Paris photo shoot we bring

DIGITAL MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT Pauline Valter

you the coolest street looks, while our Guide pages bring you the latest

OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREMAGAZINE.COM

offerings from fashion’s hottest houses.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP I EUROPE

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

For our readers who want to eat their way through the city, our Dining pages are bursting with excellent tables to sample. French, vegetarian and Italian fare are all on the menu this month. Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section we bring you the month’s happenings including a celebration of Woodstock, a pop-up bar and Keifer Sutherland in concert.

MVP I EXECUTIVE

PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler

MVP I CREATIVE

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT AND CEO William S. Morris IV

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE Facebook.com/WhereParis Twitter.com/whereparis instagram.com/wheremagazine

We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com

Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Octobre 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

Sandra Iskander [Editor-in-Chief]

ONLINE READERSHIP SURVEY

WHERE PARIS MAGAZINE is endorsed by:

Please take a few minutes to complete our survey about you and Where Paris Magazine. Thank you in advance for helping us improve our magazine to better serve you while visiting Paris.

‹

PLEASE SCAN THIS QR CODE FOR OUR SURVEY 6 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PARIS 9E bucherer.com

October

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

J’Adore Dior ALL MONTH The most beautiful avenue in the world is going through a renaissance at the moment with new boutiques opening up every month and injecting a little bit more glamour to the famous avenue. The latest house to relocate to the Champs-Elysées is French fashion house, Dior. Over three floors, Dior beautifully presents its latest collections designed by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. The house’s iconic bags are also on offer with a personalisation service available to clients. 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 63 12 51 8 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

© Dior boutique © Kristen Pelou; Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe SHARE & DARE / Florian Léger; Victor Brauner, Metagatto, 1958, huile sur toile, 55 x 45 cm, signé, daté et dédicacé en bas Questo Metagatto della fortuna bona per Lidia Victor Brauner, GALERIE ALEXANDRE SKINAS; ARTISTES PROMENEURS - Raphaële de Groot, En exercice à Venise, 2013. Crédit photo Gwenaël Bélanger

PARIS THIS MONTH

At the Races OCTOBER 5 & 6 The Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe is taking place this weekend with the world’s best thoroughbreds and talented jockeys competing at the ParisLongchamp Racecourse. Creating quite the exciting atmosphere, the prestigious event sees Parisians and international visitors head to the racecourse every year to witness what is regarded as one of the greatest horse races in the world. Visit www.parislongchamp.com to book your tickets.

Paris by Night Art & Design OCTOBER 17 TO 21 Over five days art fair Art Elysées -Art & Design will be bringing together almost 100 galleries to showcase their collections, ranging from contemporary art to urban art. A wonderful event for collectors. Turn to page 48 for more information on the fair.

OCTOBER 5 The City of Light shines brighter with the La Nuit Blanche annual event that sees free entertainment organised throughout the city. Everyone is invited to enjoy the exhibitions and concerts from dusk till dawn, which are taking place all around the French capital. Turn to our Entertainment pages for more information. w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trick or Treat OCTOBER 31 Celebrate Halloween with De Neuville’s scarily delicious ghosts. The treats are a creamy praline chocolate covered with white chocolate that will have everyone, young and old, screaming for more. Available at all De Neuville stores including at 63 rue Saint Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01 46 33 33 33

Wine O’clock

PFW

OCTOBER 9 TO 13 Montmartre’s grape harvest festival is a 5-day festival that celebrates the grape-picking season at the oldest vineyard in the French capital. As part of the Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre festivities Montmartre’s famous steps will be painted in a rainbow of colours, while concerts, dance performances and even a huge picnic party will be organised. Make sure you head to www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com for the full programme.

OCTOBER 1 Paris Fashion Week is coming to an end today with the spring/summer 2020 collections already shown letting us in on what we will be wearing next year. French fashion houses Chanel and Louis Vuitton are both billed to be showing their latest collections today.

Trade Shows & Art Fairs This show, which is held twice a year draws some 500 merchants from all over France displaying antiques, wares and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy all spread out over a miniature village setting on an island in the Seine. An exhibition devoted to the 1980s is being held at this year’s show. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredechatou.com Ile des Impressionnistes, 78400 Chatou, 01 34 80 66 00

OCTOBER 10-13 SALON D’AUTOMNE This prestigious show, being held for the 116th time this year, was first held in 1903 and remains a platform from which major artists and movements have emerged. This year the show is presenting some 870 artists from 45 countries displaying works in a host of mediums including engravings, sculptures, paintings, drawings, digital art and environmental art. The show is open from 10am-7pm, until 10pm on the 12th and until 6pm on the 13th. Champs-Elysées, Place Georges Clemenceau (8th)

OCTOBER 16-20 ASIA NOW 2019 This show, referred to as the Paris Asian Art Fair, presents a rigorous selection of contemporary works from more than 250 emerging and confirmed Asian artists and is committed to 10 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

supporting contemporary Asian artists on an international level. This year the show is presenting a section called IRL (In Real Life) featuring artists working with digital and technological techniques. The show is open from 11am to 7pm, until 8pm on the 18th and 19th and until 6pm on the 20th. www.asianowparis.com 9 ave Hoche (8th)

OCTOBER 17-20 OUTSIDER ART FAIR This convivial show, being held in Paris for the 7th time, offers an opportunity to take in Self-Taught Art, Art Brut and Outsider Art from a host of international galleries including both established and emerging galleries. The show is open from 11am to 8pm, from 6pm to 9pm on the 17th, closes at 6pm on the 20th. www.outsiderartfair.com Atelier Richelieu, 60 rue de Richelieu (2nd)

OCTOBER 18-23 IMMERSIVE ART FESTIVAL PARIS This show, being presented by the Atelier des Lumières art and exhibition venue, is devoted to graphic creation and immersive digital design. The most influential art collectives in the world will present in competition works that have been conceived for the Atelier des Lumières. The presentations are held from 7pm until 11pm. www.atelier-lumieres.com 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), 01 80 98 46 00

OCTOBER 25-27 PARIS COMIC CON The pop culture show is back in Paris once again this year. The event showcases comics, films, television, toys and video games and features special guests. Fans can meet up with creators, artists and actors and participate in the French Championships of Cosplay. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 27th. www.comic-con-paris.com Grande Halle de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th)

OCTOBER 30-NOVEMBER 3 SALON DU CHOCOLAT This heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour is marking its 25th anniversary in Paris this year. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate are all on the agenda. This year a new section devoted to pastry is being inaugurated. There are over 500 participants and the event is the largest gathering of coca-producing countries in the world. And plenty of activities and workshops for young and old alike are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

View of the vineyard, named Clos de Montmartre, iStockphoto 2019 © Page Light Studios

OCTOBER 1-6 FOIRE DE CHATOU

您

条款与条件

• 活动时间：2019年9月20日至2019年10月20日 • 当您要求使用环球蓝联支付宝快速退税时，请向工作人员出示20%额外退税的电子券以及相应的支付宝购物收据。此活动仅适用于使用支付宝付款购买的商品。 • 退税款20%的额外退税计算方式如下：假如购物金额为1,000欧元/英镑，除去相关费用后的退税金额为120欧元/英镑，那么额外退税则为退税金额的20%，即24欧元/英镑。 • 20%的额外退税是在退税金额的基础上计算的，而非购物金额。20%的额外退税将在商品获得海关验证后进行支付。 • 本活动不适用于自助退税服务机。本活动的最终解释权归环球蓝联所有，且本活动可随时终止。

3989_GW_A6__GUERLAIN_FR_190904

在参与活动的门店使用支付宝购物，则可享受退税款20%的额外退税。

Interview

The Recipe for

CHEF FRÉDÉRIC DUCA’s

Delicious Career By Alexander Lobrano

hef Frédéric Duca has a lot to crow about right now, but that’s not his style. Rooster, the handsome and very original restaurant he opened in the Batignolles district has received rave reviews and become a huge hit. He also continues his prestigious gig as a consulting chef for La Compagnie, the all-business-class French airline that flies between Paris and Nice and New York City. Just a year and a half after a triumphant four years of cooking in Manhattan, Duca has also re-established himself as one of the most talented and respected members of a new generation of chefs who are renewing Paris’s vaunted gastronomic reputation as the Western world’s preeminent culinary capital. For my part, remembering my first meal at Rooster still makes my mouth water, because I loved the frank, earthy, southern flavours of Duca’s carefully cooked and generously served food, a superb veal carpaccio with an anchovy condiment, poutargue and Pecorino, a whole palate of umami rich flavours, and white tuna with round courgettes, peaches, avocado and harissa, an elegant composition of tastes and textures, homemade mushroom-stuffed ravioli with sautéed ceps and an earthy bouillon, and cuttlefish sautéed with garlic and parsley with artichokes, citrus and Lardo di Colonnata and a brilliantly cooked ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) with celery, salicorne (a crunchy seaweed) and caper juice, one of the best things I’ve eaten in years! Earthy, bold, perfectly cooked, and bursting with flavour, this was, and is, food I could happily eat every day, a brilliant and very personal fusion of haute cuisine and southern French comfort food. On a cool but sunny autumn morning, Duca is taking a break over an espresso at a table on the sidewalk just outside of this restaurant, and our chat is repeatedly punctuated by the greetings of his neighbours as they pass by. “This is a great part of Paris,” he says of Les Batignolles, which is not only little-known to most tourists but many Parisians as well. “It’s like a friendly little village hidden in the heart of the city, and it’s a pretty cool neighbourhood, unlike many other parts of town, which are buttoned up and bourgeois.” An amiable man, and a deeply drilled and experienced chef with his feet on the ground, Duca is in a good mood. So I ask him why he became a chef. “I cook to make people happy,” he said, which is the only answer any sincere and seriously talented cook could give to this question. 12 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

“With my new restaurant, I’m free, really free. Every morning when I come in, it still amazes me that I’m actually coming to my own place, and it makes me really happy, because now I’m cooking what I want to eat,” says the chef, a native of Marseille who ended up pursuing a gastronomic career by happenstance. “I wasn’t great at school, but I came from a family that really loved to eat, so food was already a big part of my life. We ate really well, Provençale dishes and Italian, we were happy at the table. So I ended up getting an apprenticeship in a kitchen, and after the first week, I immediately knew this work would make me happy.” Duca went on to get a degree from a Marseille hotel school, and then began his remarkable career working in kitchens in and around Marseille. The experience that most marked him were the three years he spent as chef de partie in the kitchens of chef Gérald Passedat, who holds three Michelin stars at his delightful seaside restaurant Le Petit Nice in Marseille. “Working with Passedat, I learned a certain finesse and technique, and also an enormous amount about seafood. Passedat has several local fishermen who fish for him exclusively and so the kitchen here gets the freshest fish imaginable. I learned how to make fish soup. I was like a fish in water during the time I spent at Passedat,” Duca explains. Though he says he never aspired to work in Paris, his next stop was a year working at the legendary Taillevent, after which he returned south and worked in Cannes at Le Palme d’Or at the Hotel Martinez and Les Mets de Provence in Marseille. This later restaurant was a place he remembers fondly. “I love traditional Provençal cooking, which is not easy to find in restaurants anymore, and this wonderful place overlooked Le Vieux Port, the old port, right in the heart of Marseille and was very popular with the locals. Working here allowed me to master a whole battery of the classic Provençal dishes I think of as southern French soul food.” When Les Mets de Provence closed, Duca headed back to Paris and worked at Le Fouquet’s on the Champs-Elysées, the Hotel de la Tremoille and finally Restaurant Hélène Darroze for three years. Next he was hired as head chef at L’Instant d’Or on Avenue George V where he won a Michelin star in 2013. Then in 2014 when an opportunity presented itself to work in New York City as the executive chef of the new American branch of the Paris restaurant Racines, he seized it immediately. “I’d always wanted to work overseas, and New York fascinated me in so many ways. It was an amazing

experience. I spoke almost no English when I showed up for the job, and I had to learn the completely different produce of North America. We lived in Clinton Hill in Brooklyn, and every day I rode my bicycle to work over the Brooklyn Bridge. It was the most exhilarating way to start the day.” New York loved Frédéric Duca back, too. New York Times food critic Pete Wells enthusiastically gave Duca’s cooking two stars and said, “Dinner and drinks at Racines NY come as close as anything in Manhattan to the flavours of Paris today.” New York changed his cooking in many ways, too. “I made my food less complicated, fresher and more spontaneous in New York. Part of this was the great produce I found there.” Still, Duca dreamed of having his own restaurant, so when his American visa expired he and his wife and family returned to Paris, and he started looking for a restaurant space. Finally, he settled on an address in Les Batignolles, and with his own savings and help from his family, he set about renovating the space himself, including laying the ivory-coloured handmade Moroccan floor tiles in a herringbone pattern on his own, “It almost did me in,” he says with a grin.

Portrait Frédéric Duca © Julie Limont

Now the dining room is divided into two spaces by an antique metal pharmacy cabinet displaying handmade ceramics from Aix-en-Provence and Brooklyn. The overall all effect is, as they say in Paris these days, “très Brooklyn.” Duca says he thought really long and hard about what kind of a restaurant he wanted to do in Paris. “I think we’re living at a time when the codes of what people want when they go to a restaurant are changing. People go out to have a good time and don’t want to have to get a bank loan to pay for a meal. They want food they’re not likely to make at home, but they don’t want food that’s too fussy. Every dish should be legible, fresh, seasonal, delicious, and logically original,” says Duca, adding, “And I knew I didn’t want to do a prix-fixe menu with no choice either, because I think a lot of those menus kill the pleasure of deciding what you want to eat, they take too long, and they’re too expensive.”

Ultimately then, the menu at Rooster is a reflection of Duca’s remarkably rich professional experience and the three cities that have shaped him, Marseille, Paris and New York. Duca nods when I suggest this to him. “Yes, that’s it exactly. Marseille and the south of France are my roots, Paris is where I learned a certain level of culinary technique and exigency, and New York set me free, which is when my cooking style all came together.” And what does he want in the future I ask him, before he has to go inside and start prepping the lunch service. “Maybe some day it would be nice to also have a restaurant in the south of France, maybe even Marseille, but for now the future is tomorrow morning when my alarm clock goes off and I come in to start cooking for another day. And that’s just fine, because I’m a very happy man,” says the chef, and even if I hadn’t heard him say this, I’d know that it was true just by eating his succulent, savoury, sincere and deeply satisfying food. Rooster 137 rue Cardinet (17th), 01 45 79 91 48 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 13

Getaway

10 Things Not to Miss BERNARD MAGREZ INSTITUT CULTUREL An art space open to the public where contemporary artists’ works are exhibited, with the shows updated every time the menu at the Restaurant de La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez changes. Housed in a château, which is listed as an historical monument, the cultural centre is an open invitation to patrons of the arts who are invited to discover shows by local and international artists. 16 rue de Tivoli, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 81 72 77

LA GRANDE MAISON DE BERNARD MAGREZ A charming château hotel with only 6 rooms makes this 5-star hotel more of a luxurious B&B-style establishment rather than a stuffy manor-like accommodation. And it is in this charming hotel that you will find the 2-Michelin star Pierre Gagnaire restaurant, simply named the Restaurant de La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez. Managed by Gagnaire and beautifully executed by chef Jean-Denis Le Bras, the restaurant is a wonderful dining experience where you are met with a culinary symphony accompanied by an outstanding wine list with a who’s who of Bordelais wines including of course wines from La Grande Maison’s owner’s wineries including Château Pape Clément. The menu here is seasonal with an emphasis on local produce, married with flavours of the land and sea, creating a carte with surprising dishes including the duck foie gras with seaweed. The wonderfully talented chef is also a whizz in creating degustation menus for both vegetarian and vegan diners, not an easy feat but one that the chef beautifully and masterfully delivers. 10 rue Labottière, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 35 38 16 16 14 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Miroir d’eau © Steve Le Clech Photos; Institut culturel Bernard Magrez © Jean-Claude Monin; La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez © Artiste-Associé Photographes, Mathieu Mamontoff

When people think wine they think Bordeaux and while the wine here is fantastic, the city also offers visitors a wonderful escape with restaurants, museums and plush hotels, setting up the perfect scene for a French getaway.

IN BORDEAUX

Cathédrale Saint-André © Steve Le Clech Photos; La Boca © Grégoire Grange

By Sandra Iskander

SAINTANDRE CATHEDRAL Built between the 12th and the 14th centuries, the cathedral is a national monument of France and where Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII were married in 1137, just a few months before she became queen. The architecture of the cathedral is of Gothic style with depictions of religious scenes and gargoyles detailing its doors. The cathedral is open daily. Place Pey Berland, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 52 68 10

LA BOCA 14 restaurants, a cocktail bar, a wine cellar and a beer bar are all found in this converted slaughterhouse that is fast becoming one of the city’s most popular eateries with the convivial “food court” bringing a wide selection of cuisine under the one roof. Mexican, French and Japanese are only some of the specialties on offer at this cashless address, where patrons are asked to use a rechargeable card available at reception or to download an app to use at the different stalls, making it easier and quicker to pay. Quai de Paludate, 33800 Bordeaux

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 15

Getaway

CHATEAU PAPE CLEMENT Classified as an historical monument, this highly regarded winery was named after its first, and most famous owner, Pope Clement V. One of the oldest Grands Crus of Bordeaux, Château Pape Clément is located just a few kilometres from the heart of the city of Bordeaux, and is where the grapes are manually harvested, ensuring that separate vinification is possible, allowing the grapes from different plots of the estate to fully flourish and show off their unique notes. The Château organises guided tours and tastings throughout the week, taking you through the grounds of the estate before ending the visit with a tasting. There are several visits you can partake in including the Tour and Tasting Class that includes a tasting of 8 great wines, or for a more unique experience reserve a spot in the B-Winemaker workshop where you will blend your own wine and have it bottled in a personalised bottle. 216 ave Dr Nancel Penard, 33600 Pessac, 05 57 26 38 38

16 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

CHOCOLATERIE SAUNION A delightful family-run chocolate shop in the heart of Bordeaux where four generations of chocolatiers have mastered the art of chocolate making. Made in Bordeaux, Saunion chocolates are made to delight with a wide variety to choose from, dark chocolate, milk chocolate and praline-filled. The chocolates here are so good that the house has been granted the Living Heritage label. 56 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 48 05 75

Cité du Vin et Sicambre ® Alban Gilbert; Château Pape Clément © Pierre Bidart

LA CITE DU VIN Dedicated to the art and craft of winemaking, this museum/ cultural centre is a unique space where you can discover how one of the world’s most favourite drinks is made. The interactive exhibition space introduces you to the fine art of winemaking while inviting you to touch and smell the notes that go into giving each wine its unique taste. Discover the different regions in France that are known for their wines before going on a world tour to discover the wines of other countries including Australia. The educational exhibition delves you into the history of wine while also shares with you food pairing suggestions courtesy of interviews with chefs and sommeliers, making for a great cultural visit for both young and old, and of course for connoisseurs. The highlight of the visit is The Belvedere, where from the 8th floor of La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux is served at 360°. Here you can choose a glass of wine from an international selection to be sipped and appreciated while looking down and out onto the city. Esplanade de Pontac, 134 Quai de Bacalan, 33300 Bordeaux, 05 56 16 20 20

LE PRESSOIR D’ARGENT He’s known as the Hell’s Kitchen chef but Gordon Ramsay’s cuisine at Le Pressoir d’Argent is anything but hellish. The refined menu at the 2-star restaurant is an ode to French fare with flair. The menu here changes regularly, however, the signature dish is always à la carte, the blue lobster with its shell pressed at the table using the Pressoir d’Argent, the lobster press, which is one of only five in the world designed by Christofle and weighs in at an impressive 27 kilograms of solid silver, used to extract the extra jus to mix in with the sauce that is delicately drizzled on the Brittany lobster served with artichokes and shitake mushrooms from Médoc. Another permanent fixture on the menu is pastry chef Aleksandre Oliver’s crêpe filled with a rich vanilla cream, made using a family recipe handed down from his great grandfather. Intercontinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel 2 Place de la Comédie, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 57 30 43 04

Le Pressoir d’Argent © Yoris Photographe Agence Taylor Yandell

INTERCONTINENTAL BORDEAUX  LE GRAND HOTEL Facing the Opéra National de Bordeaux, this majestic hotel, a classified historical monument, is designed by renowned interior designer Jacques Garcia, who brings to life the art of living à la Française. Boasting 130 rooms, including an impressive 44 suites, the hotel is ideally located in the heart of the city on the animated Place de la Comédie. Besides the Michelin restaurant Le Pressoir d’Argent, the hotel is also home to Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay, a brasserie where you are invited to sample dishes from the southwest with a hint of British comfort cooking. The hotel also offers a breathtaking view of the city courtesy of the Night Beach rooftop bar. From here you can enjoy one of the best panoramic views of Bordeaux while toasting the evening with one of the bar’s signature cocktails. 2 Place de la Comédie, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 57 30 44 44

CHATEAU LES CARMES HAUTBRION Designed by Philippe Starck, the wine cellar at the historical estate is a stateof-the-art work of art that blends both modern design with the age-old tradition of winemaking. Guided visits can be organised, taking you through the estate, seeing the château and the vineyards before walking through the wine cellar where the art of making wine is revealed. Each visit concludes with a delicious tasting of Carmes Haut-Brion wines. 20 rue des Carmes, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 93 23 40 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 17

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | Autumn Accessories | New Finds | Beauty Best | Department Stores

De Beers brings nature to its latest collection of jewellery (opposite page)

18 WH ER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48

SHOPPING

For Her

Wild Jewels Channel your spirit animal in jewels with De Beers’s Portraits of Nature collection of high jewellery. Inspired by the kaleidoscope of colours found in nature, the collection is made up of five sets, each inspired by a different animal. Designed with rare coloured diamonds, both rough and polished, each piece is a wonderful example of the house’s savoir-faire. Using diamonds that took seven years to collect for the collection, the flamingo comes alive and dazzles with shades of pink diamonds while the zebra spirit is captured with white diamonds reflecting against grey mother-of pearl and grey diamonds. - S.I. De Beers Available at Printemps

Chic Shirts Parisian brand Bourrienne Paris X was launched only a couple of years ago but has fast become the go to house for tailored shirts for men. This season the shirtmakers have launched a capsule collection for the ladies, borrowing codes from the men’s line to create flattering shirts for any occasion. Made from Egyptian cotton, the shirts are available in white only as with the men’s line and come in beautiful cuts including the Romancière with a rounded bib and cuffs, or the Authentique with the classic French collar and double cuffs. - S.I. Bourrienne Paris X 58 rue d’Hauteville (10th), 01 83 79 31 70

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 19

SHOPPING

Autumn Accessories

Warm up your autumn looks WITH OUR FAVOURITE ACCESSORIES By Sandra Iskander

1 - Guy Laroche 35 rue Françcois 1er (8th), 01 40 69 68 00 2 - Bottega Veneta Available exclusively at www.mytheresa.com from the 12th of September 3 - RedLine 161 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 44 64 92 24 4 - Marni 231 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01 70 91 76 16 5 & 6 - Hermès 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 17 46 00 20 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

RedLine © Fabrice Poincelet; Marni © SAVERIO LOMBARDI VALLAURI; Hermès Ring © Kujjuk; Hermès ©Studio des Fleurs

35 avenue George V, Paris VIII e | +33 1 43 59 15 17 | boutique.georgev@icicle.fr www.icicle.com

SHOPPING New Finds

Beautiful, Bountiful Bronze Olive Branch Fashion Keeping the environment in mind when designing, Hugo Boss is perpetually looking for sustainable ways to create new collections. And one of the fashion house’s latest collections has incorporated the use of Olivenleder in tanning its leathers. The Olivenleder capsule collection brings nine Boss pieces to gentlemen to choose from including a bomber jacket and gloves, all of which have been designed using the 100% natural and biodegradable tanning agent, which is made from olive tree leaves. - S.I. Hugo Boss Boutique 115ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40

Bell & Ross has brought out this year its BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze with brilliant bright bronze-coloured details that seem to glow in the dark against the black dial and bezel, offering an effect of gleaming gold on dark, dark black. The watch is made in a specific alloy of bronze, the CuAI7Si2, also known as aluminium bronze, known for being tarnish resistant. Its 41mm case in bronze sets off the black dial equipped with metal applique numbers and indices and a 30-minute timer at 9 o’clock. The eye-catching chronograph is outfitted with an in-house automatic mechanical movement, the calibre BR-CAL.301, and is waterproof to 100 meters. The watch with its vintage look enhanced by a handsome black calfskin leather strap, brings together legibility, functionality, precision and reliability, the hallmarks of the house. The timepiece has been brought out in a limited edition of 999 pieces. - P.V. Bell & Ross Boutique 25 rue Royale (8th), 01 40 07 98 52

Fighting Tea With breast cancer awareness month upon us, Kusmi Tea has collaborated with French lingerie designer Chantal Thomass to bring us a limited edition tea blend. The mint green tea with rose petals is not only a calming tea to indulge in but it is also created for a good cause with 100% of the proceeds going to organisations working to prevent the disease. The limited edition blend is available in all Kusmi Tea stores including the Opéra store. - S.I. Kusmi Tea 33 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 42 65 23 56 22 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Sumptuous SOCKS T

he house of Doré Doré has been crafting superb socks of the highest quality for men and women since 1819 and today is the oldest sock brand in the world. Traditional techniques, refined materials, hand finishing and innovation are the hallmarks of the house coupled with a great attention to detail. This is the house that invented and patented the ankle sock in 1926.

each and every pair of socks passes through the hands of highly experienced craftsmen to be examined and hand-finished prior to packing and shipping. The house was taken over in 2003 by the Italian entrepreneur, Giuseppe Colombo and today Doré Doré has 14 shops in France and works with the finest of department stores worldwide including Le Bon Marché and Les Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Harrod’s and

Selfridges in London. The sumptuous socks of Doré Doré are finely crafted in the charming town of Desenzano del Garda on the southern shore of Lake Garda in Italy.

The Flagship Shop 66 rue de Rennes (6th) 01 45 48 85 52 www.doredore1819.fr

This year the house is celebrating its 200th anniversary in style and has opened a flagship shop in Paris, for the house ‘s lineage is French. The Doré Doré adventure all began back in 1819 in France when Jean Baptiste Doré a craftsman in Fontaine-lès-Grès near Troyes launched the company Doré. He would be succeeded by his brother Laurent in 1835. When a distant relative Elie Doré joined the company in 1862, Doré Doré was born and it would be greatly expanded by his grandson André Doré who came on board in 1908. Doré Doré’s socks are fashioned with the finest of materials: Egyptian cotton, Merino wool, cashmere and silk. Comfort and quality are intrinsic to the house’s socks and the brand is known for its seamless socks and the use of extra fine gauge looms, which make the finest of knitted socks. Once the knitting is completed w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 23

SHOPPING

Beauty Best

Our TOP 5 Picks to help you look after your skin By Sandra Iskander

Give your skin new life with Natura Siberica’s body scrub. Made with black mud, the organic scrub works to exfoliate your skin to leave it feeling softer while fighting the appearance of cellulite. Available at Monoprix 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 77 65 65

Make sure you do not leave any residue behind when cleansing your skin before moisturising it by using Glamglow’s Supertoner. The exfoliating acid toner unclogs pores and removes dead cells to leave your skin purified and ready for its nightly skincare routine. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50 24 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Rid your skin of impurities with La Prairie’s Supreme Balm Cleanser. The make-up remover starts off as a balm before transforming into a cleansing oil that dissolves your make-up without stripping your skin of its natural oils, leaving it clean and feeling soft. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

Increase your skin’s moisture with Esthederm’s eau cellulaire. Used day or night before your serum and cream, the eau cellulaire infuses your skin with its hyaluronic acid-rich formula, boosting its moisture levels. Available at Printemps de la Beauté 61 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Even out your skin tone while moisturising it with Chanel’s Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream. Combining Camellia Alba PFA, a white camellia extract that promotes hydration, with hyaluronic acid and vitamins C and E, this face moisturiser promises to replenish your skin and leave it looking plumper, giving you a more youthful glow. Chanel Beauty Boutique 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 75 87 20

Tuva Siberica © Ivliev Oleg; Chanel © Chanel

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Maud Ganry Boutaric, Founder

YOUR OWN PRIVATE SPA A

n innovative French company gives you the opportunity to bring the total spa experience into your home or wherever you might happen to be. How to Spa is the concept designed by founder Maud Ganry Boutaric, a cosmetic engineer with a degree in spa management. After working in some of the leading hotel spas in Paris, she decided to recreate the spa experience with all of its rituals and cosmetics to take to wherever someone was, be it at home, at work or on vacation. The journey begins on the How to Spa website where the visitor is guided step by step into how to relax and take in the well being experience on one’s own through tutorials and relaxation and wellness kits conceived by spa professionals.

energy boost or detox. Next on the agenda is to say where you are taking the spa to: home, work, to your hotel, in the plane or the train or on public transportation. The guides are conceived with wellbeing experts. And starting in November How to Spa’s wellbeing expert Fabienne Crocq will be available to work with you on a made-tomeasure programme and the first appointment is complimentary.

{ {

“I bring the spa to you,” said Mrs. Ganry Boutaric in an interview. On the site you can read one of the 15 tutorials on line as a guide book or watch a video, there are three, for tips for self-massage and stretching along with recommendations for ethical organic products that re-create the spa experience like cosmetics, finely made scarves, pillows and blankets, teas and herbal teas as well as books. The website enables you to compose your kit according to your needs. How to Spa suggests that visitors to the site first determine the result they wish to obtain choosing between a cocooning experience, an

“People love do-it-yourself as long as they are guided. I propose the care methods and the products that are adapted to your needs.”

Relaxation kits accompany the tutorials and you can custom compose your own kit or opt for one that is ready to order. Only ethical and fair trade products are employed in the kits and each kit comes in three different sizes.

“People love do-it-yourself as long as they are guided. I propose the care methods and the products that are adapted to your needs,” she said. There are the pure organic essential oils from Les Huilettes, a French brand of natural cosmetics, which are relaxing for the face. There are fair trade scarves from India, which she recommends to wear when travelling imbibed with a few drops of essential oils for a relaxing trip. Additional brands partnering with How to Spa include The Organic Pharmacy, World’s Best Travel Pillows and Skin & Tonic London. Starting in December a monthly, quarterly, bi-annual or annual subscription to the relaxation kits will be available. “It does not replace the treatment room (in a spa), but I can bring you this experience, I can bring you wellbeing,” she said. A printed-out tutorial booklet is free with each kit, which is placed in a free reusable tote bag handmade in France with upcycled materials, here fabric remnants for the bags, and so consequently each bag is unique. The kits are also an original gift to offer relaxing moments to family or friends.

www.howtospa.com contact@howtospa.com

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 25

SHOPPING Fashion

26 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Aurore Donguy Make-Up Artist & Hair Stylist: Emrick Rongier Models: Leelou from Karin Models Agency and Pierre-Malo Special thanks to Jo&Joe Paris â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Gentilly Hotel

Kickinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Back in Paris

Leelou wears Sony headphones Ungaro top Etam bag De Maarse Paris ring Paul & Joe shorts Asos boots

Pierre-Malo wears Avnier beanie and jeans Cerruti sunglasses Asos coat Maison Standards shirt Fila bum bag and sneakers

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 27

Luc Kieffer earrings, Paule Ka coat, Paul & Joe jacket and pants, Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top, Fendi shoes, Karl Lagerfeld bag 28 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Francine Bramli Paria earrings Manish Arora jacket Junko Shimada dress Reebok bralet Fila sneakers Marie Beldi bag

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 29

Fila cap Homme PlissĂŠ Issey Miyake coat Umbro polo shirt Aigle pants Hogan sneakers Penny Skateboard

30 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Caroline Bliss coat AgnĂ¨s b. jumper and pants Hogan sneakers

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 31

Leelou wears Asos earrings Michael Kors coat Elisabetta Franchi dress Christian Louboutin boots Issey Miyake bag

32 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Pierre-Malo wears AgnĂ¨s b. trench coat Paul & Joe hoodie Umbro pants Christian Louboutin sneakers

Leelou wears Gucci sunglasses Avnier cap Daily Paper trench coat exclusively at Printemps Homme PlissĂŠ Issey Miyake pants Tods sneakers Penny skateboard Pierre-Malo wears Issey Miyake bag Mr. Saturday jacket and pants Radical Chic scarf

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 33

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Doré Doré - 66 rue de Rennes (6th), 01.45.48.85.52. M ° Sèvres Babylone Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois

(4th), 01.42.71.88.29. M° Saint-Paul Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. M° Opéra Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),

01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20.

M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M°Madeleine Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.34.19. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th), 01.43.27.88.42. M° Sèvres - Babylone Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.43.25.96.11. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Lacoste | CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN 34 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. M° Porte Maillot Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. M° Corvisart One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin

EYE WEAR GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries

FABRICS: COUTURE Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.

M° Concorde Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.53.10.00.81. M° Mabillon Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. M° Madeleine

Haviland | HOME

SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.86.60.60. M° Opera Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal

Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43.

M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. M° Sèvres - Babylone Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34. M° Mabillon Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V

L’Occitane | BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.97. M° Tuileries

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.60.58.39 M° Concorde

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.43.03.70. M° Concorde Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01.57.40.94.05. M° Saint-Paul

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.

M° Opéra

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64. M° Pyramides Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68. M° Saint-Paul J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Perús - 83 rue de Turenne (3rd), 06.19.32.75.29. M° Chemin Vert Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Karl Lagerfeld | CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

••

APUC

DES C

CA CIN

RUE

PU ES

’OP

ÉR

• De Fursac

•

Birkenstock

Acaba •

• ier An Lu na do Riv ab ka t rie lle Ge pp er t

E NU

É ’OP

• Kam’s

RUE RICHELIEU Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

• •

•

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO OU

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

’AB

•

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Place des Victoires

by Terry Xavier Lust

Galerie Vivienne

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

Pie rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

Musée du Louvre

RUE VIVIENNE

• •

•D

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE DE VALOIS

• • •

PALAIS ROYAL

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

36 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

Galerie de Valois

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

L DE

•Cotélac

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

•

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

Opéra Garnier

•

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

INES

RUE DE RIVOLI

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

FreyWille

Printemps du Louvre

RUE DE LA PA IX

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Aésop

•

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

SHOP STOP

Place

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

RUE S A IN T -H

The Kooples •

LEI

Manoush

AïZEA

Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

•

ONORÉ

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

TUILERIES

RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Delvaux •David Morris

RUE S A IN T -H

Goyard •

• Lipault

Chopard

•Dubail

RU E CA ST IG LI ON

•

Marella

•Chanel Chanel

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

• UE D

RU E CA MB ON

Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

MADELEINE

Dior U P H O

Max&Moi•

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

•Pucci

Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

•

WEMPE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

• Oliver Grant

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

CONCORDE

Musée de l’Orangerie

•

Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Sartore Miu Miu

Burberry

•

•G

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

Aïzea

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

EL AB EL IE

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

NORÉ

ÉS

OÉT

NORÉ

RB HE ES AL DM AR EV UL BO

L ’A R C A

RUE D

ROYAL

Vuarnet

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

T H U R IN

LE VILLA GE ROYA L

Église de la Madeleine

•

Marella

• Zwilling E SÈZE

•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français Chaumet •

RUE TRONCHET

Dior

•

INES

• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite

INE

Omega•

APUC

DES C

Hackett •

RUE

EVA

Vendôme

Place

•

Tommy Hilfiger

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega

IG LI O N E

•Eres •Swarovski

RUE D

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

T H U R IN

LE VILLAGE

ES MA

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

ES MA

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RUE D

•

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RINS

SQUIE RUE PA

•

Burberry

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ATHU

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

DES M

’A N J O

Crockett &Jones

R U E CA ST

Capel

Janssens & Janssens

Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• •

•

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

BOUR

TOR

UÉP

D ’A S

RUE D

ULE

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

’

ROQ

RUE

•

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

RUE

G SAI

INE RU

O AST

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

MANN

CÉR

ROQ

RUE

M CA

RUE DE SURÈNE

CONCORDE

R D H A U SS

NT-HO

OÉT

• •

•

• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

B O U LE VA

ESN

Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

La Perla

ESN

•

Lanvin

OÉT

• Marina

RUE D’ANJOU

••

38 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

•

RUE ROYALE

RUE DE RIVOLI

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

RU E DE DU RA

•• •

Lanvin

Yamamoto

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

• Jitrois • Saint Laurent • Boucheron • Givenchy Alessi • • Hermès

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Place de la Concorde

• Yohji

LAULHÈRE

•55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli • Hogan • Leonard Paris

Roger Vivier • Valentino • Heurgon • Djula • René Caovilla • Chanel • Tod’s • Cartier

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

SHOP STOP

MIR

RUE D’AGU ESSEA U

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

ESN

IÈV

SHOP STOP

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

E ED

• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• Christian Louboutin • Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

E ED

•

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

BUCHERER PARIS

Caron

MIR

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

E ED

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

Pierre Cardin

•

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

Gringoire Joaillier

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

CIER

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • • AV

NUE

•

MIROMESNIL

• Sothys

Galeries •Bartoux

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

Kenzo

•

• Creed

R MA

•

RUE

Christofle •

PIE

Altan Bottier

•

RE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • E G Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• AVE De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto OILL A E Wolford • RBEUF • •Balmain Berluti ALMA MARCEAU • •Courrèges Majestic 38 Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE Akris Chanel • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren ••• Chloé • Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

DU B

OCCA

DOR

RUE FR

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

E V Audemars ORG

OT EN AV

• Marionnaud Paris

•Stefano Ricci

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Lacoste • •Hermès Omega• • AVE Bvlgari • Dubail • Zegna GE NUE

RUE

SHOP STOP

• GrandOptical • Bulgari

RUE

DE B

ERR

Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie

• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany • Galeries RUE L Lafayette

• Dior •

OÉT

RUE DE PONTHIEU

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

De Grisogono • Ellie Saab

U CEA

• Swarovski

• •

ORG

Icicle •

• Cartier

Montblanc

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple

•

Armani Collezioni

ERB

MA R UE EN

CEA

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

RUE BALZAC

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

E AV

•

• Milady

AVE

CEA

LLOT

Hugo Boss

SANO

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

RUE DE CHAI

BERETTA GALLERY

AVE

A EDL

ALILÉ

FRI

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE G

’IÉ UE D

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

D’IÉ

AHO

NUE

AVE

Maison Baccarat

EM AR CEA

SHOP STOP

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

D’IÉ

AV EN U

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

AC M

NUE AVE

RUE G

RUE

35 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 15 17 www.icicle.com

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

DOUX

In search of harmony between humans and nature, ICICLE offers a timeless elegance wardrobe composed of natural materials in a sober palette, designed with care for our environment. Discover our universe and collections in our first Parisian store.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

荈搬 ⛓ 麤

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

N A T U R A L W AY

AVENUE KLÉBER

ICICLE

Arc de Triomphe

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara

EJ EA NG OU JO N

1ER KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

AVE

NUE

FRA

Zadig & Voltaire

Dammann • •Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel

•

AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

40 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

COURS

18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 / www.jlcopticien.com

NFÉRENCE

In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Cartier, Dita, Thom Browne, Mikyta, Eyevan, Chanel, JLC Paris, Gucci and more...

PORT DE LA CO

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

ELT

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D. IN NKL

•Adidas

ATIG

NON

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

•

Guerlain •

BOU

HUR

LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

INS

OY EM

VIGN

AUR

CAUM

RUE

Exaltation RU

AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

• • • IKKS

Rossignol

EL OU

NES

UCI

C AP

E-S

R-D

DES

LIE

RUE

A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray N H Dunhill C O Corthay Guerin • U B Y Cartier • • Christophe ED AM RU • OLNE Piaget EC • Diesel V RU • Hugo Boss E Maître Parfumeur • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo X • Van et Gantier IWC • PA I Dinh • • DE LA ••Fred Alexander McQueen • • UE •Goralska Cartier Emporio Armani R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo Bvlgari •Daum • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T EVA

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

S ES ED RU

RO TRU

ED U

PY ES

FreyWille •

ON OR

ÈSE

-H

ÉR

JUI 29

LLE

D’A E RU

ET H

• Astier de Villatte

•

Ecco

ES É

• Vilebrequin

-H

Sarah Lavoine •

DE RA

T-R

Missoni

•Frank Namani

PYRAMIDES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

• Heschung •Christian Dior •Clergerie Penhaligon’s • Fragonard• •

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

-H

At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !

• Jovoy

ACABA

•

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

Bally Hackett Omega

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

•Gant • •

Tommy Hilfiger

• Max&Moi

• J.M. Weston

•

ES CR IB

•

Golfino • •Loding

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

•

Sephora

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

-G INT

INS

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

Église de la Madeleine

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Opéra Garnier

•

GOD

OT D

RUE

MADELEINE

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

RUE BOUDREA U

ARTI

ON TR E RU

Sabre • Paraboot•

HUR

MAT

DES

U EA

SHOP STOP

RUE

MAT

DES

RUE

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE

Galeries Lafayette Homme

’A EL

HAVRE-CAUMARTIN

P R O V EN

RU E JO UB ER

ADOR

SABRE

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

MOG

Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût

Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles. 17 rue Vignon – Paris 8th Tel : + 33( 0)1 40 07 96 63 www.sabre.fr

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

RUE MOG ADOR

Galeries du Diamant •

Redline •

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 41

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

E AU V

RUE

GAU

CHE

•

NES

REN

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE SERVANDONI

RUE FÉROU

RU E BO NA PA RT E

Église Saint-Sulpice

T-P

Jardins du Luxembourg

L AC

IDE

SAINT-PLACIDE

RUE DE TOURNON

RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

RUE MAD AME

RUE

RUE DE TOURNON

RUE DES CANETTES

RUE BON APAR TE

IDI

E-M

I ID E-M CH ER E

S PA IL ARD RA

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

BOULEV

AIN

• La Martina

RUE DE SEINE

RUE

S PA IL ARD RA

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

42 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

RU E MA ZAR INE

DRA

GON

ULE

BOULEV

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

RU E DE SEI NE

R TE

RUE ÉRES TS-P SAIN DES RUE

Karl Lagerfeld

Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

• Guerlain • Wolford

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

Poiray Jo • LiuFaçonnable • RUE VA R U CI Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE • Repeat Sonia • • RM • AIN Rykiel Chaumet Cashmere • Paul Smith Repeat Ralph Hugo Boss Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Cashmere •SAINT-GERMAIN • DES-PRÉS Maison• Emporio BOU • • Lejaby LEV Armani • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • Ecco Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Le Minor • Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops • • U FOUR Alain Mikli • • Sabre La Perla• D • Durance RUE Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE •TS M.A.C.• •Repetto • E VEN R T A Français U ES Q Omega Heschung RUE D • S E Berluti • VR • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Saint Laurent Longines Camper • • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • Tumi • Maje Eres• • • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • • RU

DOT-DROPS®

EJ AC

RUE BON A PA

•

SHOP STOP

GAU

•Silvera

• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •

S PA IL ARD RA

33 blvd Raspail - Paris 7th Tel: +33(0) 1 45 44 19 30 www.crockettandjones.com

Institut de France

BON

IVE

ÉRES

NEU

A PA R

RÉ R

Frau

BOULEV

CROCKETT & JONES

CHE

TS-P

CAR

VER

RUE DU BAC B O U LE VA RD Victorinox

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with Villiers 2, a genuine derby boot from the Hand Grade Collection. Available in the colorful Beechnut Burnished Calf or classic Black Calf.

SAIN

• Cassina JLC Opticien

•

LTA I

DES

RUE

SHOP STOP

•

RUE

• Poltrona

Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle•

RUE

Sarah Lavoine •

Kujten • Gérard • Darel

LIL

IVE

ITÉ

E AU N

DE B

IVE

181 boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 25 96 11 www.repeatcashmere.com

ED EL ’UN

RÉ R

DU B

REPEAT CASHMERE Affordable luxury and timeless fashionable styles in 100% Cashmere is what Repeat stands for. Founded in 1996 in Geneva Switzerland, Repeat is an international lifestyle brand specialized in fashionable knitwear. The Repeat collection focuses on timeless fashionable garments and accessories that can be mixed and matched in endless ways.

CAR RUE

RUE

DE B

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

•

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

A IR E M IN E

CALV

COM

S DU

RUE

F IL L E

PF AM RK BE

RUE

YM E

EL LE R U E D EB RUE

Nice • Things

LE TEMP

-CL

• Louis Quatorze

RU E

LE DU

NT A

TEMP

LE DU

•

VIEIL

RUE CHA RLO T

TO NG E RU E DE SA IN

Balibaris

RU E DE LA

RUE DE THORIGNY

RD IE RU E DE PI CA

DES

RU E CH AR LO

RUE DU TEMPLE

AR EL LI RU E DE CA FF

CH AR LO T

Merci • OUX UX CH Ami • SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• FROISSART

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

RUE DU TEMPLE

•

• Hugo Boss Perús • • APC

U PO

APC

• Vanessa •Mr • Bonastre • Bruno Zapa • • Les Petites Magnanni •

Mi-Mai •

RUE D

Eclectic

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse grenouille

• Oska • • French Trotters

Camper Briston • E•P O IT O U

Centre Pompidou

• Kitsune • Soeur Bonton• BV

JLC Opticien

Le Slip Français

Maison

White Bird•

•

Jack Gomme • A I N T S UE Marcel by R Wooyoungmi

•

Musée National Picasso

PE RL E RU E DU PA

• Wolford

RC RO YA L

RUE SA

IN T -G IL

LES

RUE PAY ENN E

RUE

Fred P Le C erry reus et

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE PAVEE

RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE DE TURENNE

V IG N RUE SÉ

LHE

PONT MARIE

RUE DE LOBAU

Camper Swatch Tous MAC

RUE DU TEMPLE

Place des Vosges

VI GN É RU E SÉ

VIEIL

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford • Marionnaud Paris Guerlain RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • Esteban Diptyque Musée Carnavalet • Pandora • Fragonard • RUE DES FR Arche Repetto • • ANCS BOUR• • Ted Baker Mademoiselle • GEOIS • •Jeanne ••• Iro • Sandro Michael • • Essentiel • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Sixtine • •• • Lancel • Marie RUE J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA DES BLA NCS MAN UX • Bimba y Lola • • IZIPIZI Devernois • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D• • Cos ES Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Sandro• Moscot • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •Ugg • • Lacoste • Fleux Gucci• John Galliano RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Givenchy • •Maje Le BHV Marais • Moncler Crockett Lagerfeld• ILE & Jones • RUE DU ROI DE SIC • l’Homme Chevignon TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • LI O IV R E D RUE ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul • Psyché Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane RUE

18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty

PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.

•

ENN

SHOP STOP

Nicolaï

•

RUE

FI LS

• Ron Dorff

Mes Demoiselles •

RU E DE S 4

TUR

52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

E E D

LE BHV MARAIS

UD RI ET TE

RU E DE S HA

ILL

• • RUE PASTOURELLE

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

Liquides• E N O Bellerose • RMA

•

Charlie Paul Smith Paris

EN UR E T E D

AG NE

RUE DU TEMPLE

La Boutique Extraordinaire •

RU E PE• RR ÉE

SHOP STOP

More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

ENN

The Broken Arm

RU E DE BR ET

•

UR E T E D

Carreau du Temple

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

Kate Lee

UAR

THO

ETIT

Empreintes

In the heart of Le Marais, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more... 19 rue de Bretagne, Paris - 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 44 54 06 26 www.jlcopticien.com

DU P

RUE

SHOP STOP

RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 43

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Celebrate arts and crafts at the Palais de Tokyo (opposite page) 44 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

Arbustier Â© Nelly Saunier

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

The Art of Craft An exhibition celebrating the art and craft professions is being played out at the Palais de Tokyo along with the support they have received from the Fondation Bettencourt Schueller over the past 20 years offering a discovery of craft professions like glassmaking, tapestry weaving and toolmaking. The show, entitled L’Esprit commence et finit au bout des doigts. (Intelligence Begins and Ends at the Fingertips), brings together over 150 works including a selection emanating from the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, France’s national academy of fine arts, dating from the 15th century to the present, evoking the hand. The exhibition includes a sequence of photographs devoted to the various workshops offering an insight into how the craftsmen work while another section presents the works of the recipients of the Liliane Bettencourt Prize for the Intelligence of the Hand over the past two decades, including cabinet makers, ceramic craftsmen and feather artists. - P.V. Showing from October 16th through to November 10th 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 81 97 35 88

Arbustier © Nelly Saunier; Deyrolle Photo © Codex Urbanus

Urban Beings Street art meets up with the natural world in an exhibition at Deyrolle, one of the last curiosity cabinets to be open to the public, in an exhibition entitled Urban Bestiary, with works by urban artist Codex Urbanus. The Parisian street artist regularly draws, during the night, pictures of fantastical animals on the walls of Paris, particularly in Montmartre and to date has left some 400 fairy-tale-like creatures of his own invention in the streets of the French capital. The artist has frequented Deyrolle, which was founded in 1831, since he was a child choosing an entomological specimen each year on his birthday, forming a collection, which he still has today. The works he has created for the exhibition are juxtaposed with the incomparable naturalist collections of Deyrolle. - P.V. Showing through to October 22nd 46 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 30 07 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 45

Yuki Fujiwara, Soar, 43 x 53 cm

Impressionnist, Modern & Contemporary Art Modern Masters : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck Contemporary Artists : Aïzpiri, Fusaro, Cassigneul, Chen Jiang-Hong, Tom Christopher, Lorenzo Fernandez, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

FIAC the Fair

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

46 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

The FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, being held for the 46th time this year, brings together, beneath the captivating glass cupola of the Grand Palais, some 197 leading galleries from 29 countries showcasing modern and contemporary art. Meanwhile, design is also returning to the FIAC this year with five internationally-known galleries showcasing 20th and 21st century design. The FIAC Projects, part of the show located inside the Petit Palais across the way and on the Avenue Winston Churchill (turned into a pedestrian venue for the event), will also be presenting some 30 sculptures and installation works. And in conjunction with the Louvre, 20 works will be presented in the heart of the Tuileries. - P.V. Grand Palais - 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) From October 17th through to October 20th, 12pm-7pm, from 2pm on the 18th, until 7pm on the 19th and 20th. Petit Palais - Ave Winston Churchill (8th) Jardin des Tuileries - 1 Place de la Concorde (1st) From October 16th through to October 20th, 10am-8pm, until 7pm on the 19th and 20th.

Damien Deroubaix, Baum IV - Galerie In Situ Fabienne Leclerc © Thomas Lannes / Courtesy de l’artiste et galerie In Situ - Fabienne Leclerc, Paris 200 x 150 cm - Huile et collage sur toile

18, avenue Matignon 75008 Paris M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

The Grandeur of Gaia An exhibition devoted to the beauty of our planet Earth and the fragility of the environment we live in is being held in the historic flagship boutique of the House of Guerlain within the context of the Private Path of the FIAC art fair. The show, entitled Gaïa, que deviens-tu ? (Gaia, what is happening to you?) is bringing together the works of 20 contemporary artists, and pays tribute to Gaia, the Earth goddess celebrated in Greek mythology, and aims to raise awareness about our responsibility in the protection of our planet. A number of the works celebrate the grandeur of nature while others denounce the excessiveness of human activity and its impact on the environment. Some 30 works by known and emerging artists are on display over the three floors of the House of Guerlain in myriad mediums ranging from painting to photography to video and installation works. The exhibition is open to the public. - P.V.

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Sumptuous Ceramics A scintillating exhibition showcasing ceramics is unfolding at the Galerie Vauclair within the context of the 12th Ceramics and Fire Arts pathway in Paris, which was held last month. Entitled Majeur!, the exhibition presents an ephemeral collection of original and exceptional works and pieces underscoring the excellence in the decorative arts of the second half of the 19th century. On display are exquisite pieces of ceramics by some of the leading artists in the field including Dalpayrat, Deck, Massier, Avisseau, Choisy and Chaplet. An elephant flower box, a cachepot with dragons and an iridescent cauldron are among the fine art homeware pieces on hand. The show aims to lead the resurgence of ceramic arts as fine arts, and features a formidable guest of honour, the early 20th century rosewood dining room furniture from the private residence of the honorary governor of French India, Edmond Gaudart in Pondicherry, a former French colonial settlement in India. t was back in 1991 that a venue opened

A Discovery of D

up in Montmartre showcasing a private Showing all month, collection of some 300 works, sculptures, Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 7pm engravings, objects and furnishings by 24 rue de Beaune (7th), 01 49 26 90 64 / 06 09 48 27 86 Salvador Dalí offering a unique glimpse into www.galerie-vauclair.com the work and world of the Surrealist sculptor, designer, engraver and illustrator. Dalí Paris re-opened its doors to the public last April offering a new journey into the world of the li © IAR

Vik Muniz - Bee, 2016 ©Vik Muniz; Galerie Vauclair, Elephant flower box, enameled polychrome, faience, Choisy-le-Roy manufactory, circa, 1880. Dim. (H x L) : 60 x 75 cm. © Thierry Malty

Showing from October 18th through to November 8th 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 52 57

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

THE ARTS OF AUTUMN AT

Art Elysées Art & Design

festive world of modern and contemporary art, design and urban art unfolds in October in Paris when the dynamic autumn art fair, Art Elysées - Art & Design, emerges into view for the 13th time. Four ephemeral pavilions rise up upon the Champs-Elysées housing the various sections of the fair: modern art, contemporary art, design and urban art. The venue offers an opportunity for art dealers and collectors to intermingle, but also an opportunity for the public at large to discover fine art galleries and to engage with a full range of art works in diverse mediums. The exhibitors at Art Elysées - Art & Design are chosen by a committee that ensures the authenticity, quality and general interest of the works presented. Some 100 galleries are on-hand presenting various works ranging from the modern masters to emerging talents and urban art and both 20th century and contemporary design. The Paris-based Galerie Messine, for instance, presents modern and contemporary works by the masters and will notably be showing a painting by Fernand Léger among a host of others. Among the works on-hand from the Lille-based Art to Be Gallery is a painting by Hervé Di Rosa filled with his whimsical characters. Meanwhile, the Parisian Galerie Art Jingle, which promotes young and emerging artists will showcase four of the gallery’s leading artists: Fernando Costa, PierreFrançois Grimaldi, Chanoir et Nebay. In the design section the Momtaz Gallery will be presenting hand-knotted made-to-measure rugs from Nepal, the gallery’s specialty for 70 years. Exhibitions are on the agenda as well including one devoted to the American photographer Joel-Peter Witkin demonstrating the influence of Pablo Picasso on his work presented by the Centre d’Art La Chapelle. Through works on paper, ceramics and photographs, the show looks at the parallels between Witkin and Picasso. Another show is an intriguing, monumental installation work by the Cuban artist Javier Balmaseda reflecting on migration with a path measuring 10 metres by four metres of

48 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

thousands of ceramic crabs, crabs that he remembers migrating over the roads of his native Cuba to enter the sea, a parallel to the migrants of today seeking refuge. Each crab can be purchased for 120 euros with 20 euros being donated to a humanitarian aid organisation working with refugees and migrants. Contemporary design will also be showcased by stylised scenes at the entrance to two of the pavilions by the decorator and designer Fabrice Ausset. And Huskdesignblog, an online media devoted to design, is presenting a design exhibition featuring both emerging talents and confirmed creators. Art Elysées - Art & Design October 17 to 21, 11am to 8pm, closes at 6pm on the 21st. Avenue des Champs-Elysées from the Place Clemenceau to the Place de la Concorde (8th)

A blue jungle by Julien Colombier, LE FEUVRE & ROZE,), 2018, Courtesy Le Feuvre & Roze. An underwater library by Hervé Di Rosa , Courtesy Art to Be Gallery, 2018

By Patricia Valicenti

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Salvador Dali, Gala & Beniamino Levi, dans les années 70. Archives Personnelles de M. Levi; Persistance de la Mémoire, Salvador Dali © IAR; Femme en flamme, Salvador Dali © IAR

A Discovery of DALÍ

t was back in 1991 that a venue opened up in Montmartre showcasing a private collection of some 300 works, sculptures, engravings, objects and furnishings by Salvador Dalí offering a unique glimpse into the work and world of the Surrealist sculptor, designer, engraver and illustrator. Dalí Paris re-opened its doors to the public last April offering a new journey into the world of the artist and enabling the public to discover the art dealer and collector, Beniamino Levi, who assembled the collection, which remains the only permanent exhibition in France, devoted to Dalí, the master of Surrealism. Beniamino Levi, an eminent Italian gallery owner started putting the collection together in the 1970s. Upon returning to Milan after the Second World War, he frequented actors in the effervescent artistic scene, notably Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri and became friends with the art critic Franco Passoni with whom he opened the Galleria Levi in Milan. He first met Dalí in 1974 in his suite at the Meurice hotel where Dalí and his wife Gala resided during their Parisian sojourns. Levi would first purchase two paintings, the 1932 Egg on the Dish without the Dish and The Invisible Harp done in 1934, which he exhibited in his gallery in Milan. After additional encounters in Paris, New York and Dalí’s home in Cadaquès in Spain, the collector launched into a new challenge, editing the sculptures of Dalí and he would progressively acquire the rights to 29 images taken from the artist’s most celebrated paintings including the Persistence of Memory, the Temptation of Saint Anthony and The Burning Giraffe, giving him the possibility of having bronzes made from models conceived by the artist. The bronze sculptures

of these images were cast in Switzerland at the legendary Perseo Foundry, which casts the work of Alberto Giacometti and Fernando Botero. Today, Dalí Paris, which has been given a redesign by the architect and scenographer Adeline Rispal offers a meander through the artist’s works and allows the visitor to embark on a non-exhaustive journey into the artistic path taken by Dalí and revealing a not so well known segment of his work while putting the spotlight on his technique and creativity. The museum segways into a gallery and while the museum presents rare sculptures, the gallery offers these works in different sizes and patinas for collectors in limited editions. The venue also hosts exhibits devoted to contemporary artists and little known aspects of Dalí’s work in a dedicated gallery space.

Dalí Paris 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01 42 64 40 10

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 49

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

An intriguing exhibition revolving around juxtapositions is on show at the Galerie François Léage, a gallery specialised in furniture and objets d’art of the 18th century. The show entitled Harmony, put on in conjunction with the Galerie Daniel Gervis, juxtaposes the fine furniture and objects of the gallery with masterpieces by the contemporary artist Hans Hartung as well as 20th century sculptures notably by Bourdelle and Maillol. Featured 18th century cabinet-makers include Charles Cressent and Jean-François Oeben both of whom created works for the French aristocracy. The Galerie François Léage, with Guillaume Léage at the helm, representing the fifth generation of antique dealers, is spread out in a suite of rooms resembling a private mansion with the successful juxtapositions of periods and mediums featured throughout. - P.V. Showing through to November 16th 178 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 63 43 46

Abstract Atmospheres An aesthetic and abstract world is unfolding at the Vazieux Art Gallery Paris in 20 works by the Chinese-American artist Fong Chung-Ray whose art combines elements of both Chinese and Western painting. The artist settled in Taiwan in 1949 and became interested in Western abstract art and in 1957 founded the Four Seas Artists Association with a friend and experimented with abstraction and Western techniques, such as oil on canvas. Later, after joining the prominent and influential Fifth Moon Group, he returned to the traditional Chinese techniques of brush and ink on paper. He invented a brush made out of fibres from the trunks of palm trees, which imparted a personal touch and an even bolder aspect to his sweeps of colours. When he settled in San Francisco in 1975 he began to work with acrylic paints. - P.V. Showing through to October 31st 5bis rue du Louvre (1st), 01 48 00 91 00 50 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

Hans Hartung, 1963, Collection particulière, Courtesy Galerie Daniel Gervis, Paris; Commode, Début de l’époque Louis XVI, Estampille de Pierre Macret © Ava du Parc; Fong Chung-Ray - SANS TITRE, 2018 ©Courtesy VAZIEUX Art Gallery Paris

Joyful Juxtapositions

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

A MOVING JOURNEY

he wonderful world of cinema can be discovered right in Paris at La Cinémathèque française, home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

projection machines and cameras, accessories and costumes), as it does to films.

Eight decades later the world of cinema that Langlois endeavoured to conserve lives on in a light-filled modern building designed by Frank O. Gehry in which the world of motion pictures is revealed through a museum, exhibitions, projections, a film library and bookshop. It offers a complete cinematic experience for film lovers and is a perfect place for neophytes to discover cinema of the world, of all ages and of all genres.

is on show from October 9th through to January 19th. The exhibition, a genuine cabinet of curiosities, celebrates, in splendour, the legendary figure of the vampire, an icon of a century, mysterious and sexy at the same time.

La Cinémathèque’s Musée du Cinéma exhibits some 600 objects enabling visitors to journey over three centuries into the universe of animated images. Magic Lanterns, optical boxes as well as costumes worn by, among others, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo, are on hand as well as a host of extraordinary objects, notably the robot from Metropolis by Fritz Lang and the head of Mrs Bates in Psycho by Alfred Hitchcock. Temporary exhibitions devoted to major figures in film are regularly presented as well. And an intriguing exhibition entitled Vampires

The show is peopled with artists and filmmakers haunted by the black shadow the vampire casts, enriched with hundreds of film extracts, the exhibition reveals the lasting impression imparted by the vampire throughout 100 years of popular culture from Murnau to Twilight, from Dreyer to True Blood. Some 40 films are projected each week at La Cinémathèque française in the establishment’s four movie theatres with programmes revolving around major directors, actors and technicians but also the young generation of filmmakers. A host of activities including conferences and master classes are also organised around the projection programmes. There is also an excellent restaurant serving homemade dishes using seasonal products.

51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

EXPOSITION 09.10.19 > 19.01.20

Visitors enter the Gehry building, which is built around a monumental hall that is thoroughly drenched by incoming light and outfitted with large bay windows and small balconies, and within will discover collections where over 40,000 films, 3000 costumes, 23,000 posters, 14,000 drawings and 2,300 objects are conserved. For conservation, restoration and enrichment are the missions of La Cinémathèque’s which lends as much importance to non-film objects (archives, books, pub_where_paris_2507.indd 1

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 51 26/07/2019 15:39:08

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

Eiffel Tower

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER

This Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in the Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Its five smooth gold onion domes covered in 90,000 leaves of gold are topped by Russian orthodox crosses with the highest standing at over 36 metres. Daily 2pm-7pm, guided tours 12-7pm. 1 Quai Branly (7th). M° Alma-Marceau

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. Through to November 30th, an exhibition in honour of the structure’s 130th birthday retraces the construction of the monument. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

LA CONCIERGERIE

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN

CATHEDRALE DE LA SAINTE-TRINITE

A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. From October 16th through to January 26th, Marie-Antoinette, Métamorphoses d’une image, an exhibition exploring the various representations of the French queen through some 200 works in various mediums. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€,

Arc de Triomphe 52 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

La Conciergerie

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. The cathedral is closed for repairs and restoration following the fire. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Through to October 6th L’Histoire Silencieuse des Sourds, this exhibition looks at deaf mutes and sign language from the Middle Ages to the present. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm,

Eiffel Tower

Photos iStock 2019 : © Maria Pavlova; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Luxembourg Garden

Panthéon

last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Photos iStock 2018 : Luxembourg Garden, Fontaine Medicis © mdmworks; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Golero; Tuileries Garden © Consu1961

PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the

Sacré-Coeur

courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Pont des Arts

Tuileries Garden

ONLINE READERSHIP SURVEY Please take a few minutes to complete our survey about you and Where Paris Magazine. Thank you in advance for helping us improve our magazine to better serve you while visiting Paris.

‹

PLEASE SCAN THIS QR CODE FOR OUR SURVEY

This survey is conducted completely anonymously with the answers gathered in a manner that renders the possibility of identifying the participants impossible. w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 53

Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Catacombes de Paris

This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Galerie Vauclair

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Galerie Richard Orlinski

This gallery, located on the Left Bank, specialises in ceramics and wicker furniture from the second half of the 19th Century. The space organises exhibits throughout the year. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 24 rue de Beaune (7th), 01.49.26.90.64. Mº Rue du Bac 54 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are three major shows, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. There is a shuttle bus from La Porte Maillot on certain days, reservations at 07.71.37.28.79 or by car from Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7.

Le Manoir de Paris The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

Parc Asterix

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Rex Studios

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Thoiry Zoo Safari

This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67

BOAT CRUISES

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

River Limousine

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Giverny

Retro Tour

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare Saint-

Parc Asterix | ATTRACTIONS

Paris City Vision

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

Ballon de Paris | ATTRACTIONS w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 55

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Institut Giacometti

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for

Open Tour Paris | GUIDED TOURS 56 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B R E 2019

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna

Musée en Herbe

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Musée de l’Homme

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being,

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 6:30pm, last tickets at 5:45pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS

center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Musée Grévin | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 57

The Guide

DINING

Start your evening with cocktails before enjoying Japanese cuisine at Ran (opposite page)

58 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Ran Photos ÂŠ Benedetta Chiala

French Fare | Fusion | French Bistros | World Food | Vegetarian-Friendly

DINING

Restaurants

Japanese Fusion Installed on the first floor of a magnificent 1728 mansion in three salons with gorgeous parquet floors and mouldings, Ran is one of the chicest new addresses in Paris. Designed by interior designer Tristan Auer, the interiors of gun-metal grey banquettes and contemporary lighting fixtures create an edgy visual contrast to the historic setting, and chef Shuhei Yamashita signs a Franco-Japanese menu that’s fresh, healthy and delicious. Start off with baby clams sautéed in sake and soy sauce, Camembert tempura, California royal of shrimp tempura with spicy mayonnaise, or tuna tataki and then tuck into black cod cooked with miso, beef filet cooked on a robata grill or steamed sea bass with dashi and a spicy pepper sauce. – Alexander Lobrano Ran 8 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 40 17 04 77

Veggie-Friendly Historically, the French have been a famously meatloving people, but now the growing number of excellent vegetarian restaurants in Paris shows off the growing appeal of a meat-free diet to many Parisians and visitors to the city. Right in the heart of Saint-Germaindes-Prés, the new Left Bank branch of the very popular Montmartre vegetarian table with a tongue-in-cheek name, L’Abattoir Végétal, (an abattoir, of course, is a slaughterhouse, but this one chops up only vegetables not meat) is the brainchild of Ava Farhang. Her menu is 80% vegan and 20% vegetarian, and includes such delicious dishes as aubergine caviar with pomegranate seeds, kaho pad sapparot, a Thai preparation of rice fried with pineapple, tofu teriyaki, and roasted sweet potatoes with pita bread, salad, pistachios and vegan yoghurt. There’s also a fun list of vegetarian cocktails, including the Frida, in honour of Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, a refreshing mix of tequila, pineapple, coriander, agave and chipotle. - A.L. L’Abattoir Végétal 9 rue Guisarde (6th), 09 83 54 56 76 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 59

DINING

Restaurants

A Pizza Favourite Ever since the 1950s, Chez Bartolo, a self-styled little corner of Naples in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, has been a favourite address of stylish locals, who loved popping in for a pizza baked in their wood-burning bee-hive oven or maybe a plate of spaghetti alle vongole (with baby clams) in a dining room with a mural of Mount Vesuvius, or, weather permitting, on the terrace out front for some people watching. Now the décor has been refreshed and the menu tweaked to keep this institution up-to-date for another generation. - A.L. Chez Bartolo 7 rue des Canettes (6th), 01 43 26 27 08

One of the most venerable brasseries in Paris, Le Gallopin was founded in 1876 and for decades was a favourite of the bankers and brokers who worked at the neighbouring La Bourse, or Paris stock market. Now new owner Mathieu Bucher has rebooted this profoundly Parisian address for a new era with a subtle renovation of the dining room that makes it more comfortable without ruffling its storied atmosphere and a new menu that showcases storied examples of La Cuisine Bourgeoise, including the sumptuous pâté en croûte (pâté inside of a baked crust) known as L’Oreiller de la Belle Aurore, prawns flambéed in absinthe, sole meunière and crêpes Suzette. The cooking is outstanding, service is charming, and this delightful restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily. - A.L. Le Gallopin 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01 42 36 45 38 60 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Modern Bourgeoisie

MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32

BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27 Seafood take away

Open Daily - Valet Service - Patios - Private Rooms

New fall carte : all inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif - Starter - Main course - Dessert - Wine - Coffee

www.legrandbistro.fr

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris

MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37

SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37

Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Private Rooms

Amazing seefood platters Paris’ largest oysters bar New fall carte Cap Ferret menu 45€

DINING

Restaurants

Dinner and a Movie Sleek, chic and modern, the new Beau Regard restaurant is the ultimate rendezvous for the perfect date. Left Bank Parisians are already fans with Right Bank residents also quickly trickling through for date night to enjoy modern brasserie fare and a movie, as the new Parisian address is not only a restaurant and a bar, but it is also a movie theatre. Making for the ideal spot for the old-fashioned dinner and a movie date, Beau Regard screens a variety of movies, independent as well as more mainstream films, to be seen before or after dinner, in an intimate movie theatre, taking the romance factor to 10. As for the cuisine, the menu has been put together by popular chef Mathieu Pacaud, and is a modern take on traditional and simple French fare. Share the charcuterie platter or order the oysters before indulging in the lobster drizzled with melting butter. And make sure you leave room for the chocolate soufflé. - S.I. Beau Regard 22 rue Guillaume Apollinaire (6th), 01 40 41 20 20

If you ever find yourself in the 16th arrondissement, between Trocadéro and Passy, make sure you stop at La Causerie. This neighbourhood bistro is what local French cuisine dreams are made of. Sitting on the corner of the quiet Rue Vital, the bistro, with its art deco ceramic-detailed façade, is an inviting address for locals, and visitors, to sample the works of chef Gabriel Grapin, who has previously worked at the Plaza Athénée, the Royal Monceau and the Dorchester in London. The menu here changes on a regular basis but could include a simple yet delicious tomato salad topped with a fried, and perfectly poached, egg, or try the house’s terrine of the week. The main dishes are equally hearty and generous, including the Parisian-style gnocchi with Burgundy snails cooked in creamy butter tossed in with pillow-soft gnocchi. As for desserts, La Causerie celebrates the traditional French creations, and so you will find baba au rhum, Paris Brest and rice pudding all on the menu to end your meal on a sweet note. The bistro is open during the week only, for lunch and dinner. - S.I. La Causerie 31 rue Vital (16th), 01 45 20 33 00 62 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

A Local Hit

DINING

Restaurants

A Taste of the Orient In what is fast becoming the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foodie destination, the 10th arrondissement has just welcomed a new restaurant into its fold, Bruce. While Bruce is named after a fictional mafia boss the dishes served here are anything but fictional, they are real and delicious, with very affordable prices. A delectable mix between Japanese and Thai cuisine, Bruce serves the best of both worlds with original takes on classics with a hint of the Mediterranean. Try the beef tartare seasoned with fresh herbs and capers and served with grilled sticky rice or opt for the creamy burrata drizzled with basil oil and topped with rice crackers to start. As for the mains, the Asian voyage brings you caramelised Sichuan chicken wings and tofu and grilled vegetables tossed in a delicate coconut curry sauce for vegetarians. You will also find noodles with vegetables as a side option, but they are so perfectly prepared and generously served that we would even recommend them as a main if you are craving great noodles, not too greasy, not too dry, and seasoned just right with simple soy sauce, because simplicity in cuisine is sometimes just what we want. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday, and dinner only on Saturdays. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; S.I. Bruce 12 rue des Petites Ecuries (10th), 01 42 46 57 74

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 63

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging

from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Bistro Volnay - Bistro

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

(€€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite | FOOD & WINE (16th) 64 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Aux Lyonnais | BISTRO (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3 , 4 ) rd

Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon- Sat D. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Le Select - Brasserie (€€)

This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 Mº Vavin

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal | CONTEMPORARY (1st)

Ze Kitchen Galerie | FUSION (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 65

DINING

Address Book Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French (€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary

(€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This 2-star gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice

while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet

(€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary

(€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Le Clarence | GOURMET (8th) 66 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Monsieur | FRENCH (8th)

DINING

Address Book éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)

An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. M° Gobelins

La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)

This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm,

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Benkay - Japanese (€€€)

This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. M° Dupleix

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

Les Grandes Marches | BRASSERIE (12th)

Shang Palace | CHINESE (16th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

See the Béjart Ballet Lausanne dance company perform Ballet for Life (opposite page)

68 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

Mamma Mia! Everyone’s favourite musical is heading back to Paris. La Seine Musicale is bringing Mamma Mia! The musical to the French capital from the 4th to the 20th of October with the wonderful heartwarming love story taking us to Greece where Sophie, a young bride, is planning her wedding. Played out to the music of ABBA, Mamma Mia! sees Sophie invite three men to her wedding without telling her mother, Donna. Believing one of the three to be her father, whom she has never met, and wanting to fulfil her dream of being given away by her father on her big day, she awaits their arrival with bated breath, hoping she will finally connect with her long-lost dad. Of course, when her mother finds out drama ensues, and the fun begins. The show is performed in English with French surtitles. Tickets available at Fnac. - S.I.

La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00

Queen and Mozart at the Ballet The Palais des Sports is welcoming the Béjart Ballet Lausanne dance company from the 31st of October to the 3rd of November for a wonderful dance recital celebrating life and hope. The Swiss dance company is bringing back Le Presbytère (Ballet for Life) five years after originally bringing it to the French capital, and it is still as impressive now as it was then. To the music of Queen and Mozart, and dressed in costumes designed by Versace, the dancers show just how uplifting dance can be. This ballet is a marvellous show of impressive technique and most of all talent. - S.I. Palais des Sports 34 blvd Victor (15th), 01 48 28 40 10 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 69

ENTERTAINMENT Events

An Annual Night Out Since 2002, the first Saturday in October has been marking an open invitation to discover the French capital by night courtesy of the La Nuit Blanche annual event. This year the City of Light shines brighter on Saturday the 5th of October from 7pm to 7am with free entertainment organised throughout the city. Locals and lucky visitors are invited to take in exhibitions, street art and concerts from dusk till dawn, with the late-night event this year seeing an illuminated bike circuit at Porte de Pantin and Porte de la Villette being set up. Closed off to cars, the circuit will allow riders to discover the outskirts of the city to the sounds of the Philharmonie de Paris playing in the playground. - S.I. Visit www.nuitblanche.paris for up-to-date information and the full programme.

Paris is known for being a cosmopolitan city, with the best of the world on offer in the one hub, and this month France brings Munichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous festival, Oktoberfest, to its capital. From the 11th to the 19th of October, the Paris Event Center is welcoming the folk festival, courtesy of Meteor beer, and is inviting everyone to a fantastic event of eating, drinking and dancing. The festival will be holding beer tastings, with 6 beers including a non-alcoholic option on offer, as well as serving authentic German fare to be sampled. Under a huge tent and with festive music and dancers in traditional costumes, Oktoberfest promises to be quite the convivial event. Tickets at www.oktoberfestfrance.fr. - S.I. Paris Event Center 20 ave de la Porte de la Villette (19th) 70 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Illustration ÂŠ Virginie Aracil

Paris Celebrates Oktoberfest

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light

orn in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 800 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY @7PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 ) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98

Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71 AP WHERE PARIS_UK_181x132_2019.indd 1

04/09/2019 07:56

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts

Woodstock Music It’s been 50 years since Woodstock became one of the most important events in music history in the world. Regarded as a landmark moment for music, the festival is being celebrated around the wold this year to mark its 50th anniversary. Here in Paris, the Olympia music hall is bringing Rock Legends to its stage, a tribute concert that will revive the legendary festival. Even if for a fraction of the time, concertgoers will get to experience the music of Jimi Hendrix, who famously performed at the 1969 festival. Thanks to The Jimi Hendrix Revolution by Randy Hansen and Led Zeppelin tribute band Letz Zep, the magic of the 60s is coming back on the 23rd of October to the French capital. Tickets available at Fnac. - S.I. Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08 92 68 33 68

He is mostly known for his role as Jack Bauer on the TV series 24, but awardwinning actor Keifer Sutherland is also a successful singer, and he is bringing his country sound to Paris on the 12th of October. The one-night only concert will see Sutherland perform live at Café de la Danse where he will be singing songs from his latest album, Reckless & Me. You can get your tickets at Fnac. - S.I. Café de la Danse 5 Passage Louis-Philippe (11th), 01 47 00 57 59 72 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

In Concert

ENTERTAINMENT Pop-Up Bars

A Golden Promise While the Golden Promise Whisky Bar isn’t a speakeasy per se, it is, however, accessed via La Maison du Saké, a restaurant and bar dedicated to saké, which is run by the same owners. Ring the doorbell and make your way downstairs to the chic whisky bar where a library of exceptional whiskies is to be found. A fantastic find for amateurs of whisky, the Golden Promise promises a moment of true appreciation of the drink. The bar offers an impressive selection of whiskies, to be enjoyed neat or mixed in classic and original cocktails with whiskies from Scotland, Ireland and Japan. - S.I.

Golden Promise Whisky Bar 11 rue Tiquetonne (2nd), 09 67 61 97 03

A Celebratory Pop-Up Hôtel de Crillon’s La Terrasse Gabriel has transformed itself into the Yacht Club for guests to pop in for an Italian escape. The ephemeral Yacht Club is open until the 4th of October and not only does it delight with its colourful décor, created by artist Alexandre Benjamin Navet, but it also celebrates the 100th anniversary of Florence’s most famous drink, the Negroni. To mark the occasion, the menu here includes three original Negroni cocktails, including the N100 Celebration made with Campari and Mezcal. - S.I. Cour Gabriel 6 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 44 71 15 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73

ENTERTAINMENT Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

LIDO

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, starting on May 2nd, Oiseau Paradis is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

Lido

Lido ® Pascaline LABARRERE

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

www.secretsquare.fr 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00

Restaurant 8:30 pm - 12:15am Cabaret 10 pm - 4 am Closed on sundays and mondays

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

A call to awaken your senses...

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €185 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Le Bristol Bar

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Le Bar

Prescription Cocktail Club

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

CASINO

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Le Rubis

Duc des Lombards

Ice Kube Paris

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

76 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. M° Concorde

Moonshiner

Le Lucien Bar

Casinos Barrière | CASINO (ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS)

Les Ambassadeurs

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances,

Hotel Providence | BARS & WINE BARS (10th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened in 1975, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. TuesSat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Le Mona Lisa

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Medellin

This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. M° Alma-Marceau

Pachamama

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented

Les Bains | NIGHT CLUBS (3rd)

while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

VIP Room | NIGHT CLUBS (1st) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 77

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris HAIR SALONS

LIMOUSINES

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin

PARIS DISTRICTS 1 ARRONDISSEMENT st

The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT

Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT

Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT

ADVERTORIAL

REAL ESTATE ADVISOR Planning to Buy or Rent property in Paris? Investing in property in Paris and need a professional you can trust? César SANINT can help you! This bilingual realtor knows Paris like the back of his hand. BUYING – RENTING – RENOVATING? Call César! Feel free to schedule an appointment by calling 06.09.33.91.68 or at homy@homyparis.com Homy Paris Real Estate 92 Avenue Kléber (Paris, 16th) - M° Trocadéro

78 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Blvd Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT

7th ARRONDISSEMENT

The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT

Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT

Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier,

18th ARRONDISSEMENT

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

ADVERTORIAL

L’IBIS ROUGE

THE LUXURY VINTAGE BOUTIQUE This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also ﬁnd a ﬁne selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Libisrouge

YOUR KEY TO

PARIS

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

www.parismap.fr

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 79 27730 BTSPA 58X170 WHEREOK.indd 1

29/11/2018 16:53

SERVICES

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

80 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

FREE INTERACTIVE

MAP OF PARIS www.parismap.fr

THE LUXURY & FASHION DEPARTMENT STORE DESTINATION

• 45,000 sqm dedicated to Fashion, Luxury and Beauty • A building classified as a historic monument • Tailor made services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering a breathtaking view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the heart of the world’s most beautiful museum • The best selection of iconic Luxury & Beauty brands

PR I NTEMP S .COM

HAUSSMANN, 64, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS - Tél. +33 (0)1 42 82 50 00 LOUVRE, 99, RUE DE RIVOLI 75001 PARIS - TÉL. +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81

My Paris

FABIEN-OLIVIER DESPOUYS

ASSISTANT HEAD CONCIERGE AT PARK HYATT PARIS –VENDOME

Park Hyat-Paris Vendôme

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? A river cruise on the Seine river is a must do especially at night when all the monuments are lighted up. Also the view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe is always a treat for the eyes with the perspective on the Champs Elysées, Concorde square and the Louvre. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? For a local meal in a cosy bistro I recommend bistro les Jalles. If you are looking for a typical Belle Epoque décor with classic traditional cuisine I love Brasserie Gallopin just behind La Bourse. If you want to indulge yourself for a dinner to remember the Michelin star Le Pur’ by JeanFrançois Rouquette is always a wonderful experience.

What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? The recent tragic events remind us how the Notre-Dame cathedral is precious. Paris is also giving us a taste of the future with the Fondation Louis Vuitton by Frank Gehry and the Philharmonie de Paris by Jean Nouvel. The Pantheon is also one of my personal favourites.

82 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2019

Loulou

If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? In my opinion you cannot compete with Right Bank when it comes to shopping. From the high end stores of Avenue Montaigne or rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, the department stores Printemps and Galeries Lafayette or the trendy boutiques from Le Marais or Canal Saint Martin there are options for everyone and every budget. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? Every street and corner of Paris is a romantic spot but I would choose the Buttes Chaumont Park with its bucolic atmosphere. The park is so vast that you can always find a quiet space where to cuddle and kiss. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots. The newly revamped Zoo de Vincennes is a must for children and families. La Cité des Enfants at Musée des Sciences et de l’Industrie will have the kids educated while entertained. I also love the new Jardin d’Acclimatation in the 16th.

Grand Rex

What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? I personally love the ambiance of the Harry’s New York bar which has been an institution in Paris for more than a century! For a Latin flavour I recommend the Candeleria in Le Marais. I also love the Syndicat bar in the vibrant streets of Strasbourg Saint Denis (don’t let the decrepit front door fool you!). Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? Le Loir dans la théière in le Marais is always great and busy with a local crowd. Carette on Place des Vosges will also offer a good people watching scene along with delicious pastries. The brunch of the Park Hyatt-Paris Vendôme is one of the most sought after brunches in the city!

My Perfect Day 9am: Coffee and croissant along Canal Saint Martin 12pm: Lunch at Loulou on the terrace 3pm: A movie at Grand Rex theatre 9pm: Dinner at Le Grand Venise

where

Your Guide to the World

Grand Rex, iStockphoto 2019 © Marco Rosario Venturini Autieri; Loulou © Adrien Dirand; Arc de Triomphe, iStockphoto 2019 © Pawel Gaul

Arc de Triomphe

N E W PAC K 1 8 0 Y E A R S A N N I V E R S A RY

THE LUXURY & FASHION DEPARTMENT STORE DESTINATION

RETOUCHED PHOTO

OPEN EVERYDAY INCLUDING SUNDAY HAUSSMANN, 64 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS - Tél. +33(0)1 42 82 50 00

LOUVRE, 99 RUE DE RIVOLI 75001 PARIS - Tél. +33(0)1 76 77 41 00