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January PersonaliSe your Paris at wheretraveler.com
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Paris | CONTENTS
Hot Dates
This month’s calendar of must-see events
The guide 22 Shopping
12
Destination Décor
Discover all the latest home décor trends with Paris Déco Off
The latest trends and the hottest fashions
16
Home Style
46 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
18
The Power of Glamour
Our top picks of home décor items
Meet French fashion designer Stéphane Rolland
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 60 Dining
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 70 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and shows 78 services
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J A NU A R Y 2 0 2 0 Issue No 312
PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE ®
PARIS The Capital
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UP AND AWAY FLY TO THE LATEST TRENDS
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FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS
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on the cover
Discover all the latest home décor trends with Paris Déco Off on page 12 Cover Photo © Carole.Communication
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4 W H E R E Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Pavyllon © Nicolas Lobbestael
Discover Yannick Alléno’s new table, Pavyllon (page 61)
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Welcome to Paris
the team | where PariS
A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR With a New Year comes the promise of a new look and in this issue, we delve you into the latest décor trends courtesy of Paris Déco Off and its offspring Paris Déco Home. The annual event shares with the world all the new happenings in what’s hot and what’s not in transforming your home into a style haven.
35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com www.parismap.fr PUBLISHER and General manager
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com EDITOR-in-chief Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février*
In this issue we also meet Stéphane Rolland, the French fashion
GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*
designer who celebrates women and glamour through his gorgeous
Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko
creations. Discover what moves and inspires him in our tête-à-tête
advertising - KEY account managers Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon*
interview, The Power of Glamour, on page 18.
DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*
January also marks the start of the Fashion Week season, with the first
OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy*
show in the fashion calendar kicking off with the men’s collections.
*E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com
To mark this occasion, we have rounded up the best in fashion, accessories and even scents for our gentlemen readers.
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS
MVP i EUROPE
maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
MVP i EXECUTIVE
For our visiting foodies, our Dining pages are serving up some great tables for every dining mood, tapas, French and Italian. We also open up French chocolate boxes for your sweet pleasure, to bring back home with you or to bite into while strolling through the French capital.
installations and a show celebrating Korean fashion all taking place around the city. While musicals, concerts and a hidden bar are waiting to be discovered in our Entertainment section. From everyone here at Where, we wish you a very Happy New Year and we hope you enjoy this issue.
Sandra Iskander [Editor-in-Chief]
LAURA ZAHARIA
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman William S. Morris III President and CEO William S. Morris IV
Connect with us online
Art lovers are also in for a treat this month with photo exhibitions, light
Graphic Design Manager
President Donna W. Kessler CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson
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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com
Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Janvier 2020. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito
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6 W H E R E Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
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January
HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month
Pick the Royal January 6 Have a slice of the traditional galette des rois, a pastry made every year to celebrate the Epiphany that hides a trinket inside, crowning the lucky owner king or queen for the day. This year we choose the Plaza Athénée’s galette des rois to celebrate the day. Made by pastry chef Angelo Musa, this golden pastry is filled with delicious almond frangipane with notes of handcrafted candied orange. You can order the galette between the 2nd and the 24th of the month by calling 01 53 67 65 97. 8 W H E R E Par i s I J A N UA R Y 2020
PARIS THIS MONTH
Happy New Year January 1 Celebrate the New Year with a mouthwatering breakfast spread and toast 2020 with a glass of champagne at La Cuisine at the plush Royal Monceau hotel. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01 42 99 88 00
A Pop-Up Speakeasy
Plaza Athénée by studio des fleurs; Stéphanie Seymour © Studio WIlly Rizzo; Royal Monceau , La Cuisine © Zoé; Dries Van Noten Courtesy Fashion Network
January 23 & 24 Head to www.stgermainladresse.com to sign up and be one of the lucky ones to discover the secret location of the St-Germain pop-up bar. The address will be unveiled a few days before the event, and once done, you will be invited to enjoy signature cocktails made with the famous St-Germain elderflower liqueur in an Art Deco ambiance.
Pop! ALL MONTH Pop into the Studio Willy Rizzo to mark its 10th anniversary and celebrate by taking in design pieces created by the Italian photographer and designer, shown alongside photographs taken by Rizzo of famous faces including Marilyn Monroe and Stephanie Seymour. 12 rue de Verneuil (7th), 01 42 86 07 31
Shopping Frenzy From January 8 Take advantage of the annual winter sales beginning today. High-end and high street brands are all slashing their prices on the autumn/winter collections making room for the new spring/ summer collections.
Paris Fashion Week From January 14 Men’s Fashion Week begins today with our favourite designers unveiling their autumn/winter 2020/2021 collections through to the 19th, and from the 20th of the month the couture world comes to a standstill with awe as fashion houses reveal their haute couture creations for spring/summer 2020. w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9
PARIS THIS MONTH
Trade Shows & Art Fairs
JANUARY 10-13 SALON DE LA PLONGEE SOUSMARINE
Voyage beneath the sea in this trade show devoted to deep sea diving. Discover the latest in equipment, destinations, diving news and more. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, until 9pm on the 10th and until 3pm on the 13th. www.salondelaplongee.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
JANUARY 17-21 MAISON & OBJET This trade show for professionals is the place to explore the latest in the art of living and the world of home fashion, bringing together décor, design, objects, tableware, furnishings, expertise and unique know-how. This year’s theme is (Re) Generation. The show is open from 9.30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 21st. Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte A free shuttle service is available from Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport every 30 minutes from 8.30am to 11.30am.
Cocktails with a View All Month Step into a ski resort right in the heart of the French capital thanks to the Terrass” Hotel’s rooftop bar. The rooftop bar has been transformed into a winter wonderland complete with a faux ski lift for you to enjoy signature cocktails while perched atop the Montmartre hotel serving you an unmatchable view of the City of Light. 12 rue Joseph de Maistre (18th), 01 46 06 72 85
JANUARY 17-20 WHO’S NEXT This is the leading international fashion trade show for womenswear in Europe bringing together some 1300 French and international ready-to-wear and accessories brands. Workshops, conferences and plenty of trend information are all on the rich agenda of this show, which is open to fashion professionals only. The show is open from 9.30am to 7pm, and until 5pm on the 20th. www.whosnext-tradeshow.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
JANUARY 18-20 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE This glamorous event devoted to a world of intimates is for professionals only who can preview new lingerie, corsetry, hosiery, loungewear, swimwear and men’s underwear. Trends, themed conferences, fashion shows and six worlds of lingerie, the essentials, cocooning, designer labels, beautiful legs, super heroes and creative labels, are all on the agenda. The show is open from 9am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 20th. www.lingerie-paris.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
Skating Around all Month Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday show off your skating skills at the pop-up skating rink at Polpo. The French brasserie, renamed Polpo Nord for the event, is also putting together a comfort food menu with warming cocktails including mulled cider. 47 Quai Charles Pasqua, 92300 Levallois-Perret, 01 41 34 32 86 10 W HE RE Par i s I J A N UA R Y 2020
This show brings you all that is water and wellbeing related. Some 300 exhibitors specialised in cures, treatments, thalassotherapy, spas and balneotherapy are on-hand to welcome you into a world of health and well-being. Workshops on thermal cures, collective yoga classes and practical relaxation workshops are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 26th. www.thermalies.com Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)
Montmartre Hôtel Cassandre Favaro; Polpo
JANUARY 23-26 THERMALIES
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.
Feature
Destination Décor By Patrica Valicenti
12 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
A magical and colourful world from Marie Martin (opposite page). A greenery-filled living room from Pinto Paris (above) and a magical box from Kenzo K三 Concept de Mr. Kenzo Takada (below)
T
Pinto Paris 2015 © Jacques Pepion; Kenzo K三 Concept de Mr. Kenzo Takada
he world of decoration and the home is convening in the French capital this month for Paris Déco Off, which is being held for the eleventh time this year. The event, the rendezvous of international interior designers and decoration editors, is complemented by a new event, Paris Déco Home. The free events, conceived and organised by Carole Locatelli and Hughes Charuit, are being held from January 16th through to January 20th in showrooms and boutiques on both banks of the Seine for it is that time of the year when the Parisian houses of décor open up their doors to the visiting houses from out of town and abroad with all parties showing their collections of wallpapers, fabrics, upholsteries and trimmings to professionals and the public at large. And this year the world of décor takes to the streets as well with monumental exhibitions in several squares around town. Paris Déco Off brings together some 120 houses of decoration while Paris Déco Home opens the doors onto some 30 prestigious houses devoted to home furnishings and tableware. Conviviality, all that is chic, audacious, excellence and a certain idea of the festive are the hallmarks of the events.
Meanwhile, Paris Déco Off is putting the emphasis on the environment and the ecologically-friendly this year. The organisers effectively have asked the houses to reflect upon their environmentally-friendly commitment to decoration with the result being increasingly innovative collections embodying natural materials and fibres, innovative technologies and pioneering techniques. The event’s bywords for the future of decoration are airy, natural and colourful for both indoor and outdoor décor. CMO Paris for example has been displaying craft fabrics from all over the world for 20 years now, becoming a repository for unique savoirfaire. Plant fibres like water hyacinth, raffia and palm leaf are used in their blinds, lampshades, seats and Japanese panel curtains. Meanwhile, Moooi is presenting their Tokyo Blue collection, a wall covering created using innovative and intriguing materials inspired by an endangered species of macaque. On another nature note Kobe is presenting its Animal Prints collection in two patterns. Basoo is velvet adorned with an all-over leopard
Paris Déco Home embodies savoir-faire, elegance, luxury and all that is genuine. Leading houses devoted to furniture, lights, home linens, the table arts and decorative accessories are accessible to professionals and the general public alike as they open up their boutiques and showrooms to reveal previews of new creations, limited series and unique pieces. Among the houses that can be visited one finds the great Limoges porcelain manufacture of Bernardaud, the crystal maker Saint-Louis and the glass and crystal maker Lalique, the silverware of the houses of Christofle and Ercuis and the celebrated ceramics of Gien. Visitors can stop in the emblematic houses of the Rue Royale, which stretches up from Place de la Concorde while in and around Rue du Bac one finds, among others, the Hôtel Montalembert, Sarah Lavoine, Kenzo K三 Concept de Mr. Kenzo Takada, showing at Missoni Home, Silvera, Cinna and Ligne Roset. The 2nd arrondissement of the city is represented with Pinto Paris and the 6th arrondissement as well with the ephemeral pop-up stores of Perrot et Cie, Leitner Leinen, Rinck, Serge Lesage, Hamilton Conte, Dimoremilano, Amini and Jacques Charpentier.
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 13
Feature print woven in a jacquard pattern with soft, tight threads and Malawi, a velvet jacquard with a zebra pattern. The house of Jab Anstoetz is launching a new generation of fabrics, Structures by Climatex, with Climatex being the name of innovative fabrics with properties like temperature balance, moisture regulation and extreme robustness that was developed in Switzerland. Its Cradle-to-Cradle certified design guarantees the quality of the materials and that the product can be transformed or upcycled. The two events are also surrounded by myriad experiences. Students in art and design will be participating once again in Paris Déco Off presenting their visions for an environmentally responsible indoor/outdoor room of tomorrow. Their work will be displayed on poster boards throughout the Paris Déco Off path. The Surdimensionné, meaning oversized, event and exhibition is back once again this year featuring key elements of decoration that have been crafted in monumental sizes. A couch by Jean-Michel Frank who was active in the first half of the 20th century and an armchair by Adolphe Chanaux, also active in the first half of the 20th century, have been brought out for the event, and the installation works can be seen on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Place de Furstenberg on the Left Bank and on Place des Petits-Pères on the Right Bank for Paris Déco Off. Two oversized pieces, one by Jacques Charpentier and Kenzo III concept by Kenzo Takada are also on the agenda for Paris Déco Home.
One of the very festive highlights of the event is on January 18th when the Paris Déco Off showrooms are open until 10.30pm and which kicks off outdoors at 6.30pm before heading into the showrooms where the party goes on. And as always, the pathways to the houses participating in the event are illuminated by 150 illuminations in inflammable fabrics including 110 by the Masters of Linen fashioned in natural European linen throughout the duration of the events. For further information, maps and shuttle bus stops visit www.paris-deco-off.com Paris Déco Off 9.30am until 7.30pm and until 10.30pm on the 18th Paris Déco Home 9.30am until 7.30pm Until 10:30 pm on the 16th for the Rue du Bac/ St Germain/ Raspail venues Until 10:30pm on the 17th for the Rue Royale venue Until 10:30pm on the 18th for the St Germain/ Rue du Mail/ Place des Petits Pères An ensemble from the house of Houlès (top) and elegant florals from Casamance Dynamic décor from Elitis (opposite page)
14 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Free shuttles transport visitors from the Left Bank venues to the Right Bank venues and vice versa.
Houlès © Studio des Plantes; Casamance photographe Bruno WARION; Elitis © Studio Erick Saillet
Meanwhile, the Village Paris Déco Off, an alpine ski resort in the middle of Paris, emerges on the terrace of Hôtel Montalembert, Place Furstemberg and Place des Petits-Pères, while the Déco Bulle is set up on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a transparent bubble housing a decorative universe blending living space with working space by Olivier Saguez. And a transparent bubble of 20 square meters offering an original and spectacular look into a room outfitted with lighting, furnishings and tableware appears on Place de la Concorde.
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   15
Home Décor
HOME Style Spruce up your home with these stylish additions By Sandra Iskander
Get slicing with this sleek knife from Le Domaine des Etangs Available at 107Rivoli 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 64 94 Decorate and scent your home with Fornasetti Profumi’s scented oil diffuser Available at L’Eclaireur 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 53 43 03 70
Voyage to exotic Marrakesh thanks to this coconut and dates scented candle from Nicolaï 45 rue des Archives (3rd), 01 48 87 05 19
Place your after-five cocktail on this Hamilton Conte Pompeia Cocktail table Hamilton Conte Showroom 50 rue de Babylone (7th), 01 75 57 76 52 16 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Sip on designer tea with Emporio Armani’s fashionable teapot Emporio Armani Boutique 149 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 53 63 33 50
Throw a little bit of art around your home with a collection of Picasso throw pillows from Jules Pansu 42 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 54 34 20
Make sure your home office shines with El Casco’s golden stapler and hole punch Available at The Conran Shop 117 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 84 10 01
Stay stylishly connected with Meljac’s double adaptors Meljac Showroom 3 rue de la Procession (15th), 01 40 61 08 43
Sit back and chill on Exsud’s Skrety Armchair from its Bloo collection www.exsud.com
Trick your guests with this trompe-l’oeil work of art from Villa Arev Available at Archive 18-20 20 rue des Archives (4th), 01 40 24 24 64 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 17
Interview
“I love women, I want them to be the best, at the top of their game...”
18 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
The Power of GLAMOUR By Sandra Iskander
H
Stéphane Rolland © Skye Tan; © Stéphane Rolland, Paris photo Alain Vacheron
e is one of France’s most talented haute couture designers, and now Stéphane Rolland is itching to expand his empire to bring his kind of glamour back to the world of prêt-à-porter. Embracing beauty and glamour, the house of Stéphane Rolland is an homage to the French savoir-faire that is lauded the world over. Voluminous gowns, luscious fabric and precision with an eye to detail all come together to bring the world of high fashion couture gowns that are made for princesses. Often worn on the red carpet by celebrities, Stéphane Rolland dresses are what fashion fairytale dreams are made of, and it is by no mistake, the French designer works to enhance the beauty of the feminine form, and always designs with glamour in mind. “There is glamour and glamour. I hate vulgarity and my problem now is when I see fashion, now the most pictured and most published pieces are the most vulgar. I don’t know what to say, it is not my image of the woman. There is an image of a woman to look freer, more powerful, the paradox is an image that is the opposite, the femme objet, made for man. Is this the image of the woman? When we see Instagram all the images are like that, and most of the time it is over sexy, and this contrast I do not understand. It is not flattering to the woman, over sexy singers, showing too much... destroying the image of the woman. I want people to understand that this is the image of making a woman an object. I believe a woman can show she is free, a fighter, powerful, but now she is showing an image of an over-sexualised version for men, showing the opposite of what she wants,” he explains. “There is a limit. And when I dress these same women it is more elegant. We must find the balance, you can be modern, creative and without being over-sexual.” His latest haute couture collection, inspired by China and imperial dynasties, demonstrates just that. Shown in the Palais Garnier, the collection is rich with embroidery, subtle details without suffocating each piece with excessive embellishments. A vibrant colour palette that commands attention, flattering to the feminine form without overselling her sexuality.
“I love women, I want them to be the best, at the top of their game, so I am a little bit more demanding and stricter on women. I want the world to be more beautiful,” the designer shares. And what advice does Stéphane Rolland have for women when it comes to owning their femininity? “I don’t want women to recreate glamour, I think that you do what you need and what you wish. There is a reason for everything. My problem is that I love maturity and for many people maturity means old, but maturity is internal. I love an image of an educated woman that is why sometimes I don’t like it when it is oversexual. I like to see philosophy and intellect, and you can be glamourous and intellectual at the same time, you can be super sexy and intellectual at the same time,” he confides. “Take pride. Think of attraction. Think of seduction. It doesn’t mean being a victim of a system. Just have respect in yourself. The image you give people is important, to be respectful of your own image and the image you reflect to the people in the street. Seduction is important, even to yourself, to look yourself in the mirror and like what you see. Be attractive to you, your family, friends, it is important. Even me, I try to look good whenever I see people, have brushed hair even if I’m just opening the door to the postman. It is about respect, respect for oneself and for others,” the designer explains. And what fashion advice does the designer have to achieve effortless glamour? “You can wear anything you like but have the right shoes. Choose quality when it comes to shoes and bags. Whatever you wear, and it isn’t a problem of money, it is better to invest in the right pair of shoes or right pair of sneakers. Never be cheap when it comes to the feet and the bag. You can wear a basic pair of jeans, a basic t-shirt but with the right pair of shoes and bag it is perfect, you can go anywhere.” While women are a great inspiration to the designer, it isn’t just the woman who pushes the designer, who declares, “I can design everything. Anything. w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 19
Interview If you ask me to design a building I could do it. Design is global and that is what is interesting in the process. I admire Pierre Cardin, he is a great artist, and a great businessman. He has even designed a plane. His designs will be in a museum one day. Cardin is an example, when he wants to do something there is no limit and nobody can say no.” Case in point, some of Rolland’s collections are inspired by the space he plans to use for his fashion shows, explaining that “sometimes the location helps the creative process”. Originally planned to show at the recently renovated Théâtre du Châtelet, his autumn/winter 2019/2020 couture collection show was moved to Palais Garnier due to delays in the renovations and security clearance. The result, a rich collection that complemented the famous opera house. “I had to readapt the collection that I was already designing when suddenly Garnier welcomed me in and so I immediately reworked the collection, adapted it to it.” Toning down the richness of the original detailing, the collection shone through the already extremely busy Palais Garnier without compromising his signature glamour.
And in a pool of non-designers designing now, Rolland declares, “If you want to be modern, I would say why not, if you have something to say, why not, but today designers don’t necessarily have the technique. They can sense what is in the air, what works, what is trending, but they are not professional, some designers are good stylists, but they are not designers.” And in a world of constant change and a climate that is becoming further and further sensitive, the designer throws caution to the wind and declares that “Too much sensitivity is ridiculous. With social media it goes too far too fast. With a little artistic expression, it gets blown out of proportion. I think we progress in a way, we evolve, and on another hand, we are going backwards, it is the opposite. The problem is that people are followers now and I refuse that, they live with what social media is saying, they live with their mobile, like a bible, a new religion, they look to see what they should wear, where they should eat.” Although he does agree that “Of course brands need to be careful, but we should not be victims of this because if you have something to say then say it. You need to have a sense of humour.” Now the designer, who draws inspiration from different cultures, wants to say and share his creativity a little bit more often with the fashion world, to flex more of his own artistic expression. Having stopped his ready-to-wear line and having learnt from his 20 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
All Photos © Stéphane Rolland, Paris photo Alain Vacheron
The designer also draws inspiration from watching the world go by. With his love of “observing”, the designer wishes he “had more time to sit on a terrace and watch people with a cigarette and a coffee to take the time to observe the world. I need to watch and analyse all the time. I’m like a sponge, I love different cultures, travel.” And observing he has done. “Now what we are living is this new change, an evolution. Now things are made for followers, it is not art, not artistic expression, we are talking about money,” he laments.
mistakes, learning what he “should and should not do”, the designer is ready to bring back his prêt-à-porter collection. Working on a sophisticated but easy to wear collection, Rolland imagines “something you can immediately embody” with hopes of an ever-evolving collection that changes every two months, with exclusive pieces released every time. Aware of the everchanging market, a more competitive one, with new brands and designers entering the fashion world on a more regular basis, the designer says at launch time he wants his collection to be “strong, and not big.” Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Salon 128 ave de Villiers (17th), 01 56 68 34 03 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 21
The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
Oliver Spencer coat and sweater Levi’s jeans Lords & Fools shoes Turn to page 30 for more looks from our A Walk Through Paris fashion shoot
22 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48
Photo © Alex Fadel
New Collections | Accessories For Him | Grooming Gifts | New Boutiques
Shopping
New Collections
Designer Shots Amateur photographers will be clicking away at the seams with the limited edition Leica CL Paul Smith edition. The British fashion designer has added his signature stripes to the camera, bringing colour to the sombre tool. The camera is limited to 900, with each camera individually numbered, and features custom illustrations by the designer. The Leica CL’s 24-megapixel sensor and ability to shoot up to 10 frames per second make this camera a superb gift for anyone wanting to capture life’s precious moments in style. - S.I. Leica Boutique 13 rue du Cherche Midi (6th), 01 88 33 60 60
Fancy Young Gentlemen Get your little gentlemen dressed for success with Brunello Cucinelli’s first ready-to-wear collection for kids. Created with the same care and precision as the luxury brand’s collections for the parents, the kid’s collection is a gorgeous line of sporty-chic pieces made for the active youngsters. The collection, for 4 to 12-year-olds, includes a water-resistant down jacket, crewneck cashmere sweater and trousers that are comfortable to run around in yet smart enough for brunch with mum and dad. - S.I. Brunello Cucinelli Boutique 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 64 52 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 23
Shopping
Accessories
Elegance A
with Elysées
refined and luxurious shopping experience awaits just off of the Avenue des Champs-Elysées on Rue de Berri in the three Elysées boutiques carrying fine watches, high-end jewellery and beautifully appointed accessories.
The story began back in 1978 with Elysées Horlogerie, which proposes a superb selection of exceptional watches. With its living room-like ambiance and beautiful clocks on the walls, Elysées Horlogerie features the finest of watch
brands including Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Panerai, Harry Winston, Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Franck Muller, Breitling, Glashütte, Chopard and Cvstos, with the house catering to both first-time watch buyers as well as collectors. The boutiques also provide personalised service and immediate tax refund upon purchase.
Elysées Joaillerie Boutique 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01 42 89 89 88 Elysées Shopping Boutique 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01 45 62 15 62 Elysées Horlogerie Boutique 14 rue de BerrI (8th), 01 45 62 62 45
All Photos © Elysées Horlogerie
Elysées Shopping is the latest addition to the Elysées family of luxury shops. The boutique, set in a warm and cosy atmosphere, carries a fine array of accessories ranging from pens and perfumes, to watches, leather goods and luggage from a host of fine houses. Pieces from Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Frédérique Constant, Samsonite, Mido, Seiko, Tissot, Tumi, Bell & Ross, S.T. Dupont, Montblanc and Tag Heuer can all be found in the boutique.
Meanwhile, in a jewel-box setting, Elysées Joaillerie presents fine pieces from the luxury jewellery houses of Boucheron, Buccellati, Chaumet, Chopard, de Grisogono and Fred. Each customer receives kind and highly personal attention while ensconced in large, comfortable chairs at individual reception tables. Adding to the calm and luxury of the boutique, a lovely sitting area is nestled into a cosy corner of the shop replete with soft music, books and orchids.
By Patricia Valicenti
24 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Shopping
Accessories for Him
Cool Boots
Driving Time
Crockett& Jones ©Frasershot Studios Ltd 2019
Oris, the Swiss watchmaking house based in Hölstein Crockett & Jones, the name synonymous with
and which produces only mechanical watches, brought
elegant handmade shoes, has just added three new
out its first motor sport watch in 1970 and today
models to its TBE collection of shoes for the winter
continues its tradition of driving watches with its Artix GT
season. The Black Editions II collection sees classic
Skeleton with its open dial exposing the inner workings
English footwear come together with Japanese
of its Swiss-made automatic mechanical movement,
fashion style using oversized cleated rubber soles.
reminiscent of the lid of a car hood being opened to
Each of the three models is designed using a
reveal the engine inside. The stylish watch can be worn
different black leather, including suede with a rough
underneath car race overalls, but also under the cuff of a
finish to create the Coniston boot. - S.I.
suit. The handsome black skeleton dial is outfitted with luminous indices and hands and a brown leather strap
Crockett & Jones Boutique
of stainless steel bracelet. The watch is waterproof to 100
14 rue Chauveau Lagarde (8th), 01 44 94 01 74
metres and has a power reserve of 38 hours. - P.V. Available at Bucherer 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 70 99 18 88
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 25
Shopping
Grooming Gifts
SCENTS for Him By Sandra Iskander
2 Smell like mother nature with Bvlgari’s Man Wood Neroli with notes of neroli, orange blossom and white musk. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56
3
A woody yet sweet scent is found in a spray from Lacoste’s L’Homme Lacoste Timeless. The eau de toilette mixes notes of vanilla, almond and cedar wood. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50
26 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
4
Lolita Lempicka’s new Lempicka Green Lover is a crispy cocktail of mandarin, mint and musk, creating a refreshing cologne. Available at Nocibé 6 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 43 87 81 52
5 Layer your scent after using Dior’s grooming products with the Sauvage eau de parfum with notes of Papua New Guinean Vanilla Absolute. Dior Boutique 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 89 57 96
Dior © Dior
1
Awaken your senses every morning with notes of cinnamon, mint and vanilla thanks to the Téméraire shower gel from the Lassana Diarra x … le drugstore parisien line of shower gels designed specifically for gentlemen. … le drugstore parisien Boutique 66 rue de la Chaussée d’Antin (9th), 01 42 40 21 50
Shopping
French Finds
Made in FRANCE By Sandra Iskander
Discover our month’s selection of items made with a savoir-faire unique to France
Sing in the rain with style with a pair of Aigle rain boots Aigle Boutique 139 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 46 33 26 23 Sneakers are still having a moment with Jules & Jenn, known for their collection of bags, releasing their first pair of unisex sneakers www.julesjenn.com
Get writing with this limited edition golden pen by Bic designed by French jewellery house Maison Tournaire, with the jeweller adding a touch of luxury to the staple biro in its atelier in Montbrison Tournaire Boutique 7 Cour Vendôme (1st), 01 40 20 00 19
Turn a new leaf in accessories with Les Georgette’s collection of cuff bracelets Les Georgettes Boutique 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01 88 36 00 01
Reduce signs of fatigue and bags under the eyes with Cosmydor’s new eye contour serum Available at Nous 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 33 18 02
Balibaris’s made in France belts are the ideal accessory for gentlemen Balibaris Boutique 117 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 44 78 17 78
Keep warm with Eden Park’s knitted pullover Eden Park Boutique 194 rue de Courcelles (17th), 01 46 22 62 10 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 27
Shopping
New Boutiques
An Aussie in Paris Australian upmarket ready-to-wear fashion house Zimmermann has finally opened its first boutique in the fashion capital. On the chic Rue François 1er, the boutique is an inviting space of openness where shoppers can browse the latest collections of chic bohemian pieces. - S.I.
Scented Poetry Inspired by Asian culture and traditions, in particular that of Japan, Floraïku is a niche perfume house that bottles poetry for an olfactive voyage. The perfume house offers a collection of 13 perfumes, each bottled in a distinctive bottle designed with images inspired by the name of the individual scent and its notes. In the recently inaugurated corner shop in Printemps de la Beauté, discover the scents including First Dream of the Year, with notes of grapefruit oil, orange blossom and iris. - S.I.
Zimmermann Boutique 29 rue François 1er (8th), 01 73 01 51 47
Floraïku Printemps de la Beauté 61 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 42 82 52 52
Keeping Toasty
Canada Goose Boutique 283 rue Saint-Honoré (8th)
28 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Getting Zen One of our favourite athletic apparel brands, Lululemon, has recently opened another boutique in the fashion capital, this time in the Marais neighbourhood. The boutique not only offers the brand’s latest collections, but will also be hosting regular, and free, yoga classes for shoppers to zen out and enjoy a little bit of me time. - S.I. Lululemon Boutique 15 rue Pavée (4th)
Lululemon Athletica © Miles Clark
Canada Goose’s new, and first, Parisian boutique is finally open. Sprawled over two floors, the boutique offers collections for ladies, gentlemen and children to choose from. Known for its selection of winter clothing, Canada Goose is our go-to house for parkas and lightweight down jackets. And to make sure you pick out the suitable item for your winter needs, the boutique boasts a “cold room” for shoppers to try on the pieces in icy conditions to make sure the best item is chosen. - S.I.
Elegance from head to toe.
OPEN ON SUNDAYS PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE PARIS 2, PLACE DE LA PORTE MAILLOT PARIS 17e
30 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Nikky Chicano Make-Up Artist & Hair Stylist: Dyna Dagger Model: Dimitri from DMA Models Photographer’s Assistant: Pierre-Emmanuel Gaume-Mincel Special thanks to The Peninsula Paris Hotel and Porsche
A Walk Through Paris Kenzo jumper IKKS jeans Eram boots Moncler sunglasses Longines watch Le Tanneur bag w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   31
Lords & Fools jacket APC t-shirt Balibaris pants
32 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Mouty jacket, shirt and jeans Yves Salomon t-shirt The Kooples sneakers w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   33
Mr P. jacket All Saints shirt Uniqlo t-shirt Lanvin pants Timberland sunglasses Anomimo watch Eram boots 34 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Zara coat Gap sweatshirt Wrangler pants Louis Vuitton bag Timberland sunglasses Shamballa ring w w w.p w. p a r i s m a p. fr   35
Giorgio Armani suit and shirt Manolo Blahnik shoes Seiko watch 36 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Boss trench coat Mother sweater Majestic Filatures t-shirt The Kooples pants Eram boots w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   37
Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),
01.71.72.96.45. Metro: Pyramides
Doré Doré - 66 rue de Rennes (6th),
Marquise de Laborde - 29 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.72.38.26.68. Metro: Pyramides
clothing: men & Women
La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Metro: George V
Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. Metro: Porte Maillot
Leica - 52 blvd Beaumarchais (11th),
Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), Metro: Madeleine
Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. Metro: Corvisart
Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Metro: Madeleine
One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy,
Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.34.19.
Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann
01.45.48.85.52. Metro: Sèvres Babylone
in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. Metro: Madeleine 01.43.55.24.36. Metro: Chemin Vert
Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
01.44.20.07.70. Metro: George V
Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Metro: Madeleine
BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois
(4th), 01.42.71.88.29. Metro: Saint-Paul
Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. Metro: Trocadéro
Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Metro: George V
L’Artisan Parfumeur -167 blvd Saint-Germain
(6th), 01.43.27.47.87. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Près
L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th),
Metro: Concorde
Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1 ), 01.42.86.02.39. Metro: Tuileries Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.40.73.73.73. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Icicle - 35 ave George V (8 ), 01.43.59.15.17.
JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10.
Metro: George V
Metro: Rue du Bac
Hugo Boss - 15 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th),
01.53.57.35.40. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.45.48.24.23. Metro: Rue du Bac
Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),
Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),
01.42.22.74.99. Metro: Rue du Bac
Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
01.44.71.31.73. Metro: Concorde
La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th),
01.49.27.09.09. Metro: Palais Royal
(8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Metro: George V
th
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. Metro: Opéra
Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st),
01.53.71.15.40. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),
01.45.61.53.00. Metro: Gare de Lyon
Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel
W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1 ), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde st
children’s clothing & toys
01.42.60.63.64. Metro: Tuileries
fABrics - couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Metro: Concorde
01.43.27.88.42. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone
home
Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Metro: Madeleine
Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
01.42.65.36.26. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.58.18.63.30. Metro: Madeleine
Books & music
eye WeAr GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées
th
Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),
01.53.93.22.50. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
(9th), 01.42.82.50.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin
st
01.40.46.81.71. Metro: Pont Marie
Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11
Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.43.25.96.11. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. Metro: Opéra
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66.
Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. Metro: Franklin Roosevelt
Metro: Madeleine
Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd),
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Metro: Concorde
Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.
01.42.60.70.02. Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Concorde
depArtment stores & shopping centres
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Metro: Madeleine
Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Metro: Mabillon
Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th),
Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th),
01.53.95.24.00. Metro: Charles Michels
01.53.10.00.81. Metro: Mabillon
Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98.
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00.
Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain
Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),
Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9 ),
Metro: Madeleine
01.53.45.41.41. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot
Metro: Hôtel de Ville
th
01.42.82.34.56. Metro: Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette
Marquise de Laborde | children’S clothing & toyS 38 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
(7th), 01.49.54.01.70. Metro: Rue du Bac
Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. Metro: Madeleine
L’Occitane | Beauty SpaS & productS
shopping
Address Book
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Metro: Opéra
Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Metro: Tuileries
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th),
Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00.
Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th),
Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th),
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Metro: LouvreRivoli
Metro: Opéra
Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st),
Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00.
01.53.57.52.00. Metro: George V 01.47.03.83.97. Metro: Tuileries
01.40.15.10.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.42.60.58.39 Metro: Concorde
01.42.60.37.77. Metro: Tuileries
Metro: Concorde
Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th),
Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st),
Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st),
Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20.
01.40.20.45.45. Metro: Concorde
01.42.36.33.00. Metro: Tuileries
01.42.61.58.16. Metro: Opéra
Metro: Opéra
Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9 ), 01.70.99.18.88. Metro: Opéra th
Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées
(8 ), 01.42.56.18.53. Metro: George V th
Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50.
Metro: Pyramides
Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20.
Metro: Opéra
Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st),
Metro: Opéra
Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. Metro: George V
lingerie
Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd),
Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
01.57.40.94.05. Metro: Saint-Paul
01.42.61.79.54. Metro: Madeleine
Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.
Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. Metro: Opéra
Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. Metro: Tuileries
Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th),
La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.43.12.33.50. Metro: Concorde
Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8 ), 01.42.89.89.88. Metro: George V
Metro: Opéra
Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Metro: Madeleine Metro: Opéra
Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde
Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41.
th
Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.
Corthay - 1 rue Volnay (2nd), 01.42.61.09.89.
luggAge And BAgs
01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V
01.53.43.03.70. Metro: Concorde
Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd),
shoes
Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Metro: Concorde
Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. Metro: Madeleine
Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th),
L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th),
01.55.04.11.11. Metro: Opéra
Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. Metro: Opéra
01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V
01.55.31.74.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin
01.42.77.00.33. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissard
Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st),
01.40.98.55.55. Metro: Opéra
Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10.
multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),
(8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Bourse
Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64.
Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2 ), 01.42.86.60.60. Metro: Opera
Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.
Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix
Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15.
Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. Metro: Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68.
01.47.20.03.09. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04.
Metro: Tuileries
Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1 ) , 01.47.03.39.99. Metro: Concorde
Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8 ),
J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),
Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone
Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26.
Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd),
Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34.
Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12.
01.55.35.03.60. Metro: Concorde
Metro: Mabillon
Metro: Opéra
Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th),
nd
(2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. Metro: Opéra
Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Mabillon
Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), st
th
01.40.17.47.17. Metro: Concorde
01.42.61.57.53. Metro: Opéra
Metro: Pyramides
Metro: Saint-Paul
Metro: Saint-Sulpice
01.44.51.50.50. Metro: Concorde
01.56.89.15.70. Metro: George V
01.45.48.75.47. Metro: Rennes
Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st),
Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Metro: Concorde
01.40.13.93.93. Metro: Palais-Royal
01.43.16.00.16. Metro: Concorde
Dot-Drops | luggage and BagS
A. Lange & Söhne | Jewellery & watcheS w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 39
LUXURY MAP
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
AB OÉT
Philippine Janssens •
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• Christie’s
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RB HE ES
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Marella
• Zwilling E SÈZE
•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français •Chaumet
RUE TRONCHET
Dior
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• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite
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Omega•
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Hackett •
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Tommy Hilfiger
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F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el
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•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega
IG LI O N E
•Eres •Swarovski
RUE D
Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate Spade Kenzo • •Max Mara
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MADELEINE
• •• ★Marina • Rinaldi •
T H U R IN
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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO
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Oliver Grant
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Burberry
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Crockett &Jones
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Janssens & Janssens
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Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• • Graff R
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• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
Capel
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Valentino •
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Vuarnet
Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior
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MANN
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• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •
La Perla
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40 W HE RE Pa r i s I j a n ua r y 2020
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RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Lanvin
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RUE ROYALE
RUE DE RIVOLI
16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
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•• •
Lanvin
Yamamoto
WEMPE
RU
US
AC
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• Marina
B AM
RUE DE SURÈNE
Place de la Concorde
• Yohji
The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
IE
SA
•Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan Valentino • • Leonard Paris ★ Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Djula • Jitrois • René Caovilla • Saint Laurent Chanel • • Boucheron Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier • • Hermès Alessi RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris
SHOP STOP
IL
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14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com
ESN
• •
LAULHÈRE This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.
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•Sotheby’s • Chopard • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •
ME
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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
E
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•
3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
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Caron
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AVENUE DE MARIGNY
RU
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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
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•
Pierre Cardin
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Rimowa• Nuun • RUE Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe
JANSSENS & JANSSENS
EN
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AB
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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
EN
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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • AV
NUE
RU
•
MIROMESNIL
• Sothys
EL
Galeries •Bartoux
RU
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
ES
SHOP STOP
LUXURY MAP
Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
•
RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN
INES
APUC
DES C
CA CIN
RUE
PU ES
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RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
’OP
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• De Fursac
•
Birkenstock
N VE
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Acaba •
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Marquise de Laborde
RUE RICHELIEU
RUE RICHELIEU
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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois
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Palais Royal
• • • • • • • •
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Bonpoint IRO
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Hartford
OU
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Gerard Darel Kenzo Agatha
’AB
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Place des Victoires
PS
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Galerie Véro-Dodat
Christian Louboutin
Aïzea
RU
by Terry Xavier Lust
★ Galerie Vivienne
•
RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM
•
Musée du Louvre
RUE VIVIENNE
RUE DE LA FEUILLADE
RUE DE VALOIS
•
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RUE DE RIVOLI
DD
PALAIS ROYAL
RUE DE RIVOLI
AR
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Eric Philippe Angela Caputi ★ Il Bisonte
EV
RUE DES PYRAMIDES
Galerie de Valois
15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
EN
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•Cotélac
•
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ
OPÉRA Kusmi Tea
AV
Galerie de Montpensier
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
Opéra Garnier
•
•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil
FreyWille
Printemps du Louvre
RUE DE LA PA IX
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
•Aésop
•
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Vendôme
•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire
•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous
Vivienne • Westwood
SHOP STOP
Place
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
29 rue de Richelieu - Paris (1st) Tel: +33 (0)1 72 38 26 68 shop.marquisedelaborde.com
UL
Carrousel du Louvre
ONORÉ
The Kooples •
•
•
•Christian Dior •Clergerie
RUE S A IN T -H
Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •
BO
Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s•
Manoush
MARQUISE DE LABORDE
Chopard
ONORÉ
TUILERIES
NE
RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • • Balmain Kilian • Nous • Barrie Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni • Emporio Armani •David Morris •Omega
RUE S A IN T -H
Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •
• Lipault LEI
•Chanel Chanel
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Goyard •
•Dubail
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RU E CA ST IG LI ON
•
Marella
MA
Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •
RUE TRONC HET
•Eres • Swarovski
Église de la Madeleine
LA
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MADELEINE
DE
Dior U P H O • D
RU E CA MB ON
SHOP STOP
Marquise de Laborde is a French brand of quality European made children’s fashion for ages 0–14 years old. Soft toys and other gift items complement this collection. The brand also specializes in custom made home linens since 1999. The Old World style shop is very charming with a chic and cosy atmosphere only 5 minutes walk from the Louvre Pyramid entrance.
•Pucci
Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi• Max&Moi•
62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com
Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara
•
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• Oliver Grant
VD
RUE DE RIVOLI
Jeu de Paume
•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère
BL
Jardin des Tuileries
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
■
RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
RUE SAINT- HONOR É
AïZEA is a Maison of Haute Maroquinerie with a Basque temperament. Elegant. Functional. Generous. AïZEA goes to basics, with heart, and a touch of pepper. The brand makes his pieces in the French and Spanish Basque country, as well as, in Portugal, in workshops that value the hand, the know-how, and the know-how-to-be.
Musée de l’Orangerie
••
CONCORDE
AïZEA
•
Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Panerai Miu Miu
Burberry
•
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Place de
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
SHOP STOP
RUE DU LOUVR E
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LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées - Montaigne
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• Swarovski • GrandOptical • Bulgari
• •
Lacoste • •V Omega• RGE ★ ENUE GEO •Hermès • AV Bvlgari De Grisogono • • Dubail • Zegna Ellie Saab U Stefano Ricci • EA Longchamp • C • • R Creed MA Christofle • RUE UE N E AV • PIERRE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy V E Audemars Arije • RON • •Chaumet Dubail • RG GEO Piguet Hublot• Beretta Nike/PSG• Cercle NUE E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • ★ Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE RON •Balenciaga Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U MOI By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto LLE A Wolford • RBEU Zimmermann •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges Maje • • Majestic 38 Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld • AVE • Thomas Harry • N UE M Giorgio Armani Pink Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior••• Ralph Lauren • Chloé • Gucci
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
IS 1 ER
ANÇO
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RUE FR
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DU B
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• Marionnaud Paris
Icicle
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Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer RUE
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Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie
• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE
LA B
RUE DE PONTHIEU
SHOP STOP
• Cartier
Montblanc
GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple
•
Armani Emporio
PIER
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RUE BALZAC
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• Milady • Etam
ERB
57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com
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SANO
Hugo Boss
EN
E BAS
JEAN GIRAUDOUX
RUE D
RUE DE CHAI
Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man and also women can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.
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Publicis Drugstore •
RUE G
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Maison Baccarat
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CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
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SHOP STOP
BERETTA GALLERY
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D’IÉ
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AC M
NUE AVE
RUE G Place des États-Unis
RUE
35 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 15 17 www.icicle.com
NUE
AVE
M NUE
AVENUE DE WAGRAM
DOUX
In search of harmony between humans and nature, ICICLE offers a timeless elegance wardrobe composed of natural materials in a sober palette, designed with care for our environment. Discover our universe and collections in our first Parisian store.
O AVE
RUE JEAN GIRAU
荈 搬 ⛓ 麤
UG
AVENUE KLÉBER
Fabio Caviglia•
N A T U R A L W AY
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AVENUE KLÉBER
ICICLE
Arc de Triomphe
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AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE
SHOP STOP
OÉT
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•Chanel • Galeries Lafayette •Dior •
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Zadig & Voltaire
Dammann • • Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or Lancel •
•
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Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.
UE M
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
LT EVE OOS D.R
Grand Palais
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RU
ALBERT
42 W HE RE Pa r i s I j a n ua r y 2020
COURS
38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com
NFÉRENCE
Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.
PORT DE LA CO
MAJESTIC 38
Jil Sander
•Adidas
ATIG
NON
LUXURY MAP Vendôme
Gare Saint-Lazare
SHOP STOP
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E
RUE SAINT-LAZARE
Passage du Havre
Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant
BOU
ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet
INS
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•
ARTI RUE
Exaltation I
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•
•
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Rossignol
RU
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Bally Hackett Omega
• BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty
•
BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES
• • • IKKS
•Gant • •
Tommy Hilfiger
•
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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Dunhill Poiray • Guerin N H C O Corthay U B Y • ED Cartier AM RU • OLNE Piaget • • Christofle • Diesel EC V RU Hugo Boss E TTF • Maître Parfumeur Lery RU Jimmy Choo Panerai • A I X • et Gantier ★ P •Dinh Van • IWC Alexander McQueen •Fred • DE LA Goralska • Van Cleef • Cartier E • Emporio Armani U & Arpels R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo • •Glasshütte Bvlgari • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Goyard Akillis MP • S Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat ★ • ED H.Stern UM Balenciaga Acaba • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA • BO • Heschung PYRAMIDES RU R ET • • Dodo • Jovoy HÉ Missoni RÈ •Christian Dior SE • Frank Namani • Ecco •Clergerie EVA
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
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FreyWille •
ON
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RU
• Astier de Villatte
AI
•Maison Kitsuné
RU
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Sarah Lavoine •
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Penhaligon’s • Fragonard•
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr
IN
GL
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ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !
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SHOP STOP
• Sephora
L’Occitane • Max&Moi Golfino OPÉRA • Loding Bucherer • Camper Tag Heuer Montblanc • Lancel
ES
40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com
AIN
• J.M. Weston
GE
•
Etam
RU
Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE OR
INS
Fragonard
Mario Dessuti•
Église de la Madeleine
E T-G
Opéra Garnier
CAUM
RUE
MADELEINE
GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
RUE BOUDREA U
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Sabre • Paraboot•
HUR
RU
TR E RU
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SHOP STOP
LEV
•
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Galeries Lafayette Coupole
GR
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Galeries Lafayette Homme
RU E JO UB ER
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HAVRE-CAUMARTIN
RU
9 rue de la Paix – Paris 2 Tel: +33 (0)1 40 20 96 18 www.ttf.fr
nd
•
Guerlain •
ON
The TTF high jewellery house presents its universe of poetic, or contemporary, jewellery and high jewellery in the precious and cosy microcosm of its Parisian boutique with its golden and champagne colours. You can enter to discover the collections or by appointment for the exceptional pieces or to create your own jewel.
RUE DE
ADOR
Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût
VICTOIRE
MOG
TTF
E D E LA
Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T
RUE MOG ADOR
Galeries du Diamant •
Redline •
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LUXURY MAP
Saint-Germain SHOP STOP
E AU V
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ÉRES TS-P
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RU E MA ZAR INE
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RUE BON A PA
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DU AIN T-P
Jardins du Luxembourg
L AC
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SAINT-PLACIDE
RUE DE L’ODÉON
RU E DE CO ND É
RUE DE SEINE
RUE DE TOURNON
RUE SERVANDONI
Église Saint-Sulpice
RUE FÉROU
RUE MAD AME
RUE
DE
RU
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REN
DU
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CH
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RUE MÉZ IÉR ES
RU E BO NA PA RT E
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S PA IL ARD RA
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• La Martina
RUE DES CANETTES
RUE BON APAR TE
IDI
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BOULEV
RU
RUE PRI NCE SSE
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RUE MA DAM E
RUE
RUE DE LA CH
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A IS E
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S PA IL ARD RA
• L’Occitane • Lacoste
RUE DE TOURNON
EN
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GR
RUE
DE
BOULEV
R U • Guerlain • Wolford
RUE MA BIL LON
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DRA
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Dice Kayek Poiray • Liu Jo BO ★ Christian ULE • • RUE Gant VA R U CI Louboutin Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • • Agent Vuitton B AY NTCamper E Provocateur GER •• • Repeat MA • Cashmere Chaumet IN Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio• DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • Lejaby • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • • Ecco Kenzo • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops • • U FOUR Sabre Alain Mikli • • La Perla• D • Durance •NTS RUE Petrusse Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE Repetto M.A.C.• • • TRE VE Français ★ Doré Doré ★ S QUA E Omega D E RU Berluti • VRES • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Saint Laurent Lancaster • Longines Camper • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • •Maje Eres• • Tumi • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon •Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES R Charmel V • Marché S É E Il Bisonte D • •
RU
44 W HE RE Pa r i s I j a n ua r y 2020
RU E DE SEI NE
E N O ÎT
Karl Lagerfeld
•
EJ AC
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RD
A IN T -B
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RUE ÉRES TS-P SAIN
RU
DES
VA
RUE
LE
S PA IL ARD RA
66 rue de Rennes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 85 52 www.doredore1819.fr
TE
GAU
•Silvera
BOULEV
Since 1819, Doré Doré has been crafting highquality socks for men, women and children. Throughout the years, Doré Doré has made a name for itself as a high-end sock brand that still uses traditional techniques and processes. Each pair of socks is hand-finished to ensure the best possible quality. Doré Doré’s socks are made out of the finest natural yarns including Egyptian cotton, Merino wool, cashmere and silk.
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Institut de France
A PA R
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Poltrona Frau
• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •
E
DORÉ DORÉ
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RUE
E AU N RUE
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• Cassina JLC Opticien
•
SHOP STOP
RUE
▼
Victorinox
15 rue Saint-Benoît - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 22 41 76 / www.dicekayek.com
LE
LTA I
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Deyrolle•
RUE DU BAC B O U
DICE KAYEK
•
Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Kujten • Gérard • Darel
LIL
GAU
VO
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DE B
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Sarah Lavoine •
•
Launched in June 2019, the first Dice Kayek flagship boutique opened its doors in the heart of the historic cafes and shopping district of the 6th arrondissement. The new space showcases the full range of Dice Kayek ready to wear, exclusive couture pieces, shoes and accessories. Dice Kayek is the must-have brand for so many celebrities, as Yang Mi, Yang Ying (Angelababy), Liu Tao, Celine Dion, Naomi Campbell to name a few.
RUE
AC IVE
RU
SHOP STOP
DE
IVE
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BA
46 boulevard Raspail, Paris 7 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 22 36 28 www.petrusse.com
th
L’ U N
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The soul of the Petrusse House is deeply artistic, with excellence at the core; from the design studio located in the vineyard of Bordeaux to the finishing touches workshop, dedicated focus on the responsible manufacturing process, all in all with traditional and innovative know-how.
ED E
RÉ R
DU B
PETRUSSE
CAR RUE
RUE
RU
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Musée d’Orsay
LUXURY MAP Le Marais
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YM E
COM RUE
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PF AM RK
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TEMP
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LE BHV MARAIS More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !
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CROCKETT & JONES A reference for 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with the 140th Anniversary Collection, a unique selection on styles crafted with the utmost attention to detail. The elegant, easy shoe Magee is available in the neat Dark Brown Antique Calf.
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BESIDES KIMCHI Located at 5 minutes from the Pompidou Centre or the Hotel de Ville, Besides Kimchi is a Parisian concept store specialised in Korean fashion and cosmetics. We offer a large selection of Korean designers and brands from "Chic" to "Street Wear", and a large choice of cosmetics and sheet masks.
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The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Visit a luminous ocean at the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (page 50) 46 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
©China Light Festival B.V. & Sichuan Tianyu Culture Communication Co.,Ltd
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
arts&attractions
Exhibitions
Curating Korean Couture Lee Young-hee was regarded as the leading figure in Korean fashion, drawing her inspiration from the traditional clothes of Korean women, the hanbok, which she propelled into contemporary couture. The Musée National des Arts Asiatiques, the Guimet, received an exceptional donation of 1300 pieces from the textile collection of Lee Young-hee and consequently the Guimet now possesses the largest collection of Korean textiles outside of Korea and is paying tribute to the designer in a retrospective exhibition entitled The Stuff of Dreams of Lee Young-hee, Seoul-Paris, bringing together traditional textiles, accessories and some 75 couture pieces. The show is articulated in three complementary domains within the creative process of Lee Young-hee, her research into the traditional Korean outfit, her creation of the modern hanbok and her couture creations through which she would bring her country onto the international fashion scene. - P.V.
« Costumes de vent » 1994-2018 Soie © MAISON DE LEE YOUNG-HEE / tous droits réservés ; Le grand chef, 2013, © Wylda Byron
Showing through to March 9th 6 place d’Iéna (16th), 01 56 52 53 00
Myriad Mysteries Papua New Guinea, islands still to this day surrounded by an aura of mystery, are revealed in an exhibition of unique photographs on display at the 193 Gallery. Puerto Rican artist Wylda Bayrón journeyed to this faraway land to record the heroes and spirits of the islands of New Guinea, islands filled with an abundance of nature and an exceptional cultural diversity shaped by 40,000 years of human presence and whose ancestral heritage is endangered. Her portraits of the men, women and children of New Guinea during celebrations and secret rituals, dressed in magnificent ceremonial dress and adornments are being shown to the public for the first time. Portraits representing masked men offer a glimpse into the symbolic universe of Papua mythology while nine black and white photographs depict the ritual of scarification of the young men and women of the Sepik Valley. The show, entitled Heroes and Spirits of New Guinea, brings together a series of 24 photographs proffering a rare glimpse into a little-known world of humanity. - P.V. From January 8th through to March 1st 7 rue des Filles du Calvaire (3rd), 06 03 70 78 26 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 47
arts&attractions
Iconic Serge and Jane at Régine in Normandy. Serge and Jane eating cotton candy at the Foire du Trône funfair in Paris. Serge and Jane in Oxford. Serge and Jane at Régine in Paris. Serge in Normandy, Jane in Chelsea. Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, one of the most celebrated, photogenic and iconic of couples, had their lifestyle captured on film throughout the late 1960s and 1970s. An exhibition at the Galerie de L’Instant delves into this period through intimate photographs by French photographer Tony Frank, and Andrew Birkin, Jane’s brother. The show, entitled Jane B., juxtaposes the photographers’ unique photographs of this mythical couple. - P.V. Showing through to March 1st 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09
Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of thE StaRS Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. COCO Chanel, SChiaparelli, JOSeFF OF hOllywOOd, hermèS Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette allée 3, stand 5/6/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen Metro: porte de clignancourt
Saturday, Sunday, MOnday
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 11 96 38 www.olwenforest.com 48 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Foire du Trône ©Tony Frank - Galerie de l’Instant
Exhibitions
arts&attractions
Exhibitions
Près de la Cité interdite, un simple d’esprit dont la fonction est d’accompagner les mariées en palanquin, Pékin, décembre 1948. © Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson / Magnum Photos; Marco Del Re, Les académies 19 - 2017 - huile sur papier - crédit photos Galerie MAEGHT
Cartier-Bresson in China It was in November of 1948 that French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson would receive an assignment from American magazine Life to cover the last days of Beijing before the arrival of the Maoist troops. He originally was to remain for two weeks but circumstances led to a longer stay of 10 months mainly in the region of Shanghai. He would witness the fall of the then capital, Nanking, and left the country just days before the proclamation of the People’s Republic of China on October 1st, 1949. The photographs he took during this period would become historic and embraced a style that was more poetic and distanced. He would return ten years later, under different conditions, required to be accompanied by a guide, to document the results of the Revolution and the forced industrialisation of the countryside. Over 150 photographs of these two journeys along with archives and documents are on exhibition at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson in a show entitled Henri Cartier-Bresson China, 1948-1949, 1958. - P.V. Showing through to February 2nd 79 rue des Archives (3rd), 01 40 61 50 50
Dreaming with Del Re A highly colourful, festive and dream-like world is unfolding at the Galerie Maeght, which is presenting the most recent works of Italian contemporary artist Marco Del Re in a show entitled Académies, in reference to his own rendition of the Academies, the places where knowhow, knowledge and techniques are preserved and transmitted. The show brings together five large format canvases including a diptych, eight small paintings and some 20 large oil paintings on paper. His Academies reflect a long journey that began in 2011 into the heart of painting and its history. The works reflect awakened dreams in which models and decorative objects are juxtaposed in an imaginary décor filled with beauty. - P.V. Showing through to January 18th 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01 45 48 45 15 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 49
arts&attractions Exhibitions
Revealing Rizzo The timeless and iconic photographs of Willy Rizzo are being showcased in an exhibition entitled Pop! being held to mark the 10th anniversary of Studio Willy Rizzo, the venue that showcases the artist’s photographs and furniture. The show offers an opportunity to plunge into the world of Pop Art through some 30 signed and numbered prints reflecting the gestures, colours and attitudes of a provocative and evocative time. The prints are being presented alongside a number of Pop Art inspired design pieces by Willy Rizzo who worked with noble materials like steel, marble, lacquer and brass. There are the portraits of Jack Nicholson, Stephanie Seymour, Marisa Berenson, Jane Fonda and his muse Elsa Martinelli, along with a colourful rendition of Dennis Hopper at Venice Beach in front of one of his works of art, and the lesser-known Jean, the hairdresser of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. - P.V.
A Festival of Lights The fascinating worlds of the ocean come to life and to light in the Botanical Gardens of the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, the National History Museum, starting at 6pm every evening. A giant octopus, penguins, a turtle and more offer a nocturnal, original, rare and enchanting promenade in the City of Light. The show, entitled Illuminated Ocean, plunges the visitor into the immensity of the world’s oceans through 50 monumental luminous installations some measuring 10 metres high and 30 metres in length. The spectacle opens up with the inhabitants of the tropical coasts, the splendour of the warm seas before plunging down into the mysteries of the abyss for encounters with the out of the ordinary creatures that live there. The show reverberates with the current exhibition at the museum devoted to the oceans of the world. Reservations and tickets exclusively online at www.jardindesplantesdeparis.fr. - P.V. Showing through to January 19th Place Valhubert (5th), 01 40 79 56 01 50 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Elsa MARTINELLI 2Peinte par Charles MATTON © Studio WIlly Rizzo; © China Light Festival B.V. & Sichuan Tianyu Culture Communication Co.,Ltd
Showing through to February 8th 12 rue de Verneuil (7th), 01 42 86 07 31
arts&attractions
Boîte « Le Secret », 2019, Série de 8, Bronze - 3 finitions : or, argent, palladium. Courtesy Galerie Chastel-Maréchal. © Sylvie Chan-Liat
Exhibitions
Winter Wonderland An exhibition being held at the Galérie Chastel-Maréchal invites the visitor into the winter wonderland universe created by Joy de Rohan Chabot. A chandelier entitled Moonlight whose centrepiece is an enchanting owl surrounded by branches, a tree of life candelabra, golden chairs made of leaves and a frosty mirror surrounded by tree branches are among the 18 unique decorative pieces in the show entitled Dream Catcher. Nature has always been the major source of inspiration for the artist who constantly explores the theme using diverse materials ranging from bronze to gold leaf and paint. She transforms each piece by hand imparting upon it a uniqueness and at times a mirage-like aspect. - P.V. Showing through to January 21st 5 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 40 46 82 61
ADVERTORIAL
Galerie Taménaga Founded in 1969 by Kiyoshi Taménaga in Tokyo, the Galerie Taménaga successively opened up two additional venues in Osaka and in Paris in 1971. The Galerie Taménaga would become the first Japanese art gallery specialised in the Western masters. In this respect it has in its collection many masterpieces by the Impressionists and the Modern artists like Bonnard, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, Picasso, Redon, Renoir, Utrillo, Van Dongen and so forth. Located on the prestigious Avenue Matignon, the Galerie Taménaga is equally devoted to the discovery of and supporting contemporary artists who are recognised today: Chen Jiang-Hong, Takehiko Sugawara, Kyosuke Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa, and as well the American Tom Christopher or the Spaniard Lorenzo Fernandez. The gallery participates in numerous international art fairs and shows like the BRAFA in Brussels from January 26th through to February 2nd 2020 (Stand 77c). The next exhibition devoted to the artist Chen Jiang-Hong will take place in October of 2020.
18 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris – +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 galerie@tamenaga.fr – www.tamenaga.com
C H E N J i a n g - H o n g , S a n s t i t r e , 100 x 100 cm
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arts&attractions Passageways
Galerie Vivienne
The picturesque passageways of Paris offer an offbeat promenade in the Parisian capital. Alternatively named “passage” or “galerie”, they are “covered” with glass roofs, which prompt the light to vary depending upon the weather, time of day and time of year. The passages were essentially constructed during two relatively brief time periods, the first from 1823 to 1828, and a second phase from 1839 to 1847. They reached their peak during the Restoration (1814-1830). Some 20 covered passageways remain today in Paris, architectural treasures of glass, steel and some fabulous décor. Within, one can find diverse boutiques, restaurants and even a museum.
Galerie Colbert This passageway, for which construction began in 1826, is worth a visit for its splendid architecture, which includes a rotunda and a spectacular glass cupola. This passageway, particularly its rotunda would inspire architects throughout Europe in the 19th century. 4 rue Vivienne/6 rue des Petits-Champs (2nd). M° Bourse
Galerie de la Madeleine This passageway coincides with the place of the same name and its church, La Madeleine. It was opened in 1845 and two superb caryatides by the French sculptor Klagman frame its main entrance. 9 Place de la Madeleine/30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th). M° Madeleine
Built in 1828 as a long covered promenade to avoid bad weather and heavy traffic, this passageway was restored and today its beautiful frescoes and friezes can be appreciated along with the splendid mirrors that adorn the tympanums. 120 rue Saint-Denis/3 rue de Palestro (2nd). M° Réaumur-Sébastopol
Passage du Caire This passageway, which opened in 1799, owes its name, which means Cairo in French, to the decorations on its splendid facade, three representations of the Egyptian goddess Hathor. 2 Place du Caire/16 rue du Caire/239 rue Saint-Denis (2nd). M° Sentier 52 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Passage des Panoramas This passageway, which dates back to 1799, built outside of the peak in passageway construction, is one of the oldest of the city’s passageways and has been welcoming pedestrians for over two centuries now. It will snake you under cover from the Boulevard Montmartre to Rue Saint-Marc and along the way you’ll cross over the Galerie des Variétés, the Galeries Montmartre, Feydeau and Saint-Marc. 10 rue St-Marc/11 blvd Montmartre (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Photos. © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand
Passage du Bourg-L’AbbE
Galerie VEro-Dodat This passageway is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Paris with its resplendent double marble columns that have retained their mirrors, gilt trims, splendid ceilings and a fine black and white tiled marble floor. Beautifully restored in 1997, this passageway offers the visitor a journey into the Belle Epoque. 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau/Rue du Bouloi (1st). M° Louvre
Passage Choiseul Built circa 1825, this passageway with its main thoroughfare measuring 190 meters in length is one of the longest in Paris. Its history is intimately linked with the theatre as it neighbours two of the most celebrated in the French capital, the Opéra Comique and the Bouffes Parisiens, the theatre of Jacques Offenbach. 40 rue des Petits Champs/23 rue Saint Augustin (2nd). M° Quatre-Septembre
Passage des Princes Originally called the Passage Mirès when it opened in 1860, this passageway was restructured and rebuilt between 1992 and 1994, although its fine cupola dating from 1930 remains. 5 blvd des Italiens/97 rue de Richelieu (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Passage Jouffroy
Passage Verdeau The high glass rooftop of this passageway makes it one of the most light-filled in the French capital. A prolongation of the Passages Jouffroy and Panoramas, it was opened in 1846. 6 rue de la Grange Batelière/31bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Galerie Vivienne Inaugurated in 1826, this passageway is strategically situated near the Bourse (the stock exchange), the Bank of France and the Palais Royal and has a décor influenced by Pompeii and Herculaneum. It has two splendid caryatides, which decorate the Rue des Petits-Champs entrance, and a spectacular mosaic by Faccina, the 19th century Italian mosaic artist. 4 rue des Petits-Champs/5 rue de la Banque/6 rue Vivienne (2nd). M° Bourse
Built in 1847, this passageway is one of the city’s younger passageways and is named for its architect M. Jouffroy, the son of the Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans. Inside one finds the spectacular wax museum, the Musée Grévin, replete with its Hall of Mirrors and where French and international personalities await the visitor. 10-12 blvd Montmartre/9 rue de la Grande-Batelière (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot
arts&attractions Monuments
EIFFEL TOWER
LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Through to January 26th, Marie-Antoinette, Métamorphoses d’une image, an exhibition exploring the various representations of the French queen through some 200 works in various mediums. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité
PALAIS GARNIER OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through to February 2nd, Le Grand Opéra, an exhibition that explores the opera house’s grandiose period in France in the 19th century. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra 54 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 M° Cardinal-Lemoine
Photos iStock 2019 : Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy
Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. Through to March 31 an ephemeral and functioning winery has been installed on the first floor by the Winerie Parisienne. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23 M° Bir-Hakeim
ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arcde-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77 M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN
SAINTE CHAPELLE
This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon
A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).
THE TUILERIES GARDEN PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 55
Address Book
arts&attractions
Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr areas & marKets
PARIS
Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.
Carré Rive Gauche This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)
art galleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr SCAN TO DISCOVER!
several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). Metro: Denfert-Rochereau
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-7pm. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. Metro: Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris DIGITAL MAP
and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and public holidays 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. Metro: Concorde
attractions Académie Équestre de Versailles Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Atelier des Lumières A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), Metro: Père Lachaise
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. Mon-Fri 1:30pm-8pm, Sat, Sun 10am-10pm. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. Metro: Quai de la Gare
FlyView Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. Sun-Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri, Sat 11am-9pm. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.83.62.12.36. Metro: Opéra
Grande Arche
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. Metro: Iéna
This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360° panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92800 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. Metro: La Défense Grande Arche
This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. Metro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée
Le Manoir de Paris
Opera Gallery
Catacombes de Paris
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder
The catacombs of Paris house the remains of
Galerie Richard Orlinski
56 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. Metro: Porte Dorée
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), Metro: Château d’Eau
Parc Asterix This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just
arts&attractions
Address Book
a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. 09.86.86.86.87. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”). Times and dates vary, call ahead.
boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 40 min, 11am-9:20pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12
Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-9:40pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. Metro: Pont Neuf
Vedettes de Paris
Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-5:30pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
day trips
North of Paris, a 16 century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. MonSun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.27.31.80. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly–Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château. th
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. Times and dates vary, call ahead. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
Musée National du Château de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
gardens This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), Metro: Concorde
Château de Fontainebleau
Jardin du Luxembourg
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond, an orchard of old vintage fruit trees
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) | aTTracTions
guided tours Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. Metro: Opéra
Paris Authentic
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
Jardin des Tuileries
Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-11pm, boats 25-30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. Metro: Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), Metro: Odéon
This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19
Paris City Vision City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 2 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. Metro: Tuileries
Retro Tour Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07
museums & foundations Centre Georges Pompidou France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. Metro: Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed-Sun12pm7pm, Thur 12pm-9pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. Metro: Trocadéro
Dali Paris In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely
Musée National du Château de Malmaison | Day Trips w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 57
arts&attractions Address Book
devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. Metro: Abbesses/Anvers
Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-9pm. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. Metro: Sablons
Institut Giacometti This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. TuesSun 10am-6pm. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. Metro: Raspail
Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. Metro: Jussieu
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. Wed-Mon 12pm-7pm. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. Metro: Bercy
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz
Musée de la Magie | MuseuMs & FounDaTions 58 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
MAD A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets 5:45pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. Metro: Palais Royal
Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. Times and dates vary, call ahead.01.47.23.38.88. 34 ave de New York (16th), Metro: Iéna
Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. Metro: Pont Neuf
Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. Metro: Arts et Métiers
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. Metro: Varenne
Musée Cognacq-Jay This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by
Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. Metro: Saint-Paul
Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. Metro: Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. Metro: Iéna
Musée en Herbe A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Open everyday 10am-7pm. 23 rue de l’Arbre Sec (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 11am-7pm. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. Metro: Trocadéro
Musée de la Vie Romantique A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. Metro: Blanche
Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. Metro: Miromesnil
Dali Paris | MuseuMs & FounDaTions
arts&attractions
Address Book
Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. Metro: Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée de la Magie A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and daily during school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. Metro: Saint-Paul
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. Metro: Opéra
Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 9pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. Metro: La Muette
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.
Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. Metro: Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. Metro: Malesherbes
Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). Metro: Concorde
Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, Thurs until 9:45pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. Metro: Solférino
alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. Fri until 9pm, last tickets at 8:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau
Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Sun and holidays 10am-7pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. Metro: Iéna
Petit Palais
An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tues-Sun 9:15am-7:30pm, Thurs until 10:30pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. Metro: Alma Marceau
The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Fri (only for exhibitions) until 9pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Musée Picasso
Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac
A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. Metro: Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. TueSun 10am-6:30pm, last tickets at 5:30pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. Metro: Varenne
Musée Yves Saint Laurent This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides | MuseuMs & FounDaTions
This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. Metro: Porte de Pantin
practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-14:30pm/3pm-7:30pm, Sun12:30pm-3:45pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). Metro: Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. Metro: MontparnasseBienvenue
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The Guide
dining
Contemporary Cuisine | World Fare | Bistros | French Tapas | Italian Dining
Dine on contemporary French tapas at the recently opened Mordu (page 63)
60  W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
dining
Restaurants
Contemporary Cuisine Hidden away in a quiet side street not far from the Arc de Triomphe, the exceptionally pleasant new restaurant, Miura, is as good a choice for a business meal as it is for a relaxed tête-à-tête. The wooden tables with velvet upholstered chairs are widely spaced in this quiet parquet-floored dining room, and talented young chef Nicolas Aujay’s contemporary cooking is light, intelligently inventive and full of flavour. Start with scallops cooked in their shells garnished with soy sauce and Parmesan creating an excellent combination of tastes, or maybe the foie gras ravioli with a jus de canard with Thai spices, and then try the veal sweetbreads with spinach and carrot mousseline, the beef cheeks with sautéed foie gras, baby vegetables and potato puree, or the steaked croaker fish with baby carrots and leeks and a sauce of lobster bisque spiked with Sauternes. Stand-out desserts include the vanilla millefeuille with candied orange peel and the Grand Marnier soufflé with chocolate sorbet. The restaurant also offers a good value 28-euro lunch menu. – Alexandre Lobrano Miura 15 rue de l’Arc de Triomphe (8th), 01 47 54 00 28
Pavyllon © Nicolas Lobbestael
Affordable Alléno Chef Yannick Alléno has opened a delightful new restaurant at the Pavillon Ledoyen, which is also the location of his superb Michelin three-star table and his excellent sushi restaurant L’Abysse. Pavyllon is a luxurious mostly counter-service restaurant with an open kitchen, and the beautiful dining room overlooks the gardens that surround the restaurant. Open daily, this is an excellent choice for solo diners or a relaxed experience of one of the best chefs in Paris at more moderate prices than those charged in his gastronomic restaurant upstairs. Start with the beef and razor-shell clam tartare, steamed Comte cheese soufflé or the oyster beignet with smoked pike perch eggs, and then sample the Wagyu beef stroganoff or the sole cooked with vin jaune, Comte cheese and cabbage, or the game and foie gras Pithiviers. Appealing desserts include caramel ice-cream with Amarena cherries, roasted hazelnuts and double cream and candied grapes with Sauternes jelly and crispy rice. The restaurant also serves a good value 68-euro lunch menu too. – A.L. Pavyllon 8 ave Dutuit (8th), 01 53 05 10 10
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dining
Restaurants
Breaking the Rules The latest restaurant to be making appetising waves in the French capital is Shabour, meaning broken in Hebrew, with the already popular establishment taking you on a culinary voyage to Jerusalem. The menu here works in surprising herbs and spices that create inviting and original dishes. Dried and powdered Molokhia, Egyptian spinach, works its way onto creamy tahini, zaatar perfumes bread and even celery makes a surprising appearance in a dessert in the form of a sorbet. The menu changes every week, with chef Assaf Granit and his team meeting every Sunday to put together the coming week’s culinary surprises, which could include a smoked eggplant tart, and a soft-boiled egg posed atop a creamy cloud of tahini. The names given to the dishes are also a treat, the Cinderella is a pumpkin-based dish while the Amy Winehouse takes you Back to Black with a squid ink fregola sarda dish. The open kitchen is central to the dining experience here, with the chef and his very friendly team putting together the delectable dishes right in front of you, which are easily adapted to suit different dietary requirements. Though before you start eating your way through Jerusalem, start with one of the house’s «colour» cocktails, a personal favourite is the Pink, a variation of the Pisco Sour brought to life with a sprinkle of sumac. Open only for dinner.. – S.I. Shabour 19 rue Saint-Sauveur (2nd), 06 95 16 32 87
Tucked away in the quiet residential Les Batignolles neighbourhood, the lively and very popular bistro Le P’tit Canon is exactly that charming little place with red-checked tablecloths, a big zinc bar, and a menu of delicious traditional French classics everyone dreams about finding during a trip to Paris. Start off with some foie gras, escargots or maybe some marinated salmon with sesame seeds, and then tuck into a cassoulet, that cold-weather beating southwestern French dish of white beans stewed with preserved duck and sausage, or try the lamb shank roasted with rosemary or the steak tartare with homemade frites or sausage with aligot, a luscious Auvergnat dish of potatoes whipped with Cantal cheese and garlic. Desserts are excellent too, including tarte Tatin, chocolate mousse, and baba au rhum (sponge cake doused with rum and topped with whipped cream). The English-speaking service is exceptionally friendly, and the charming owner takes deserved pride in his excellent and very reasonably priced wine list too. – A.L. Le P’tit Canon 36 rue Legendre (17th), 01 47 63 63 87 62 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Shabour Photo © Hans Meijer ; Le P’tit Canon Photo © Geraldine Martens
Best in Bistro
dining
Restaurants
French Tapas Stylish new restaurant, Mordu, in the northeast corner of the Marché Saint-Germain in SaintGermain-des-Prés was designed by interior designer Elodie Tornare, who gave it an appealing décor of leather-upholstered banquettes, wooden tables and a large brass chandelier. Chef Baptiste Trudel serves an imaginative contemporary French smallplates menu that’s designed to team well with the excellent selection of some 130 different wines here. Start with fried aubergine with ponzu sauce, Tahitian-style red tuna or some beef ceviche in beet juice and wild mulberry, and then try the chicken with baby artichokes, grilled octopus with kimchi or the grilled veal rib steak for two. The dessert not to miss is the chocolate ganache with chili, hazelnut crumble and salted-butter caramel sauce. – A.L. Mordu 2 rue Félibien (6th), 01 42 39 89 27
Daroco 16 photo © Hans Meijer
A Second Daroco The second branch of the popular Daroco restaurant recently opened in the 16th arrondissement and it is already quite the hit with Parisians. Daroco 16 doesn’t stray from what made it so popular when it first opened in the Bourse neighbourhood, serving the same delicious Italian cuisine, but with variations on the dishes. The menu changes quite regularly but could include a saucy caponata with a hint of fresh mint, linguine lightly tossed in butter with slices of cep mushrooms, and of course the house’s famous pizzas, including the Fiamma, topped with caramelised onion, fresh basil, stracciatella cheese and ‘nduja, a spicy Italian pork salami. The desserts here are just as good as ever, so make sure to leave room for the famous tiramisu. Daroco is open daily from midday to midnight but it is recommended to reserve. - S.I. Daroco 16 3 Place Clément Ader (16th), 01 44 14 91 91 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 63
DINING
Restaurants Advertorial LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd Since 1995, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional and generous French fare using only seasonal products. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.
20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr
DJAKARTA BALI
AU COIN DES GOURMETS
Indonesian cuisine
Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader1‘s choice 2017. 181x132 WHERE AVRIL_2019.qxp_Mise en page 25/10/2019 10:32 Page 1
Seafood a Parisian culture
438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr
This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.
L’Auberge Dab
Tel. 01 45 00 32 22
161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon to midnight Valet parking available
www.auberge-dab.com
Le Congrès Maillot
www.congres-maillot.com
Le Congrès Auteuil
Tel. 01 46 51 15 75
144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am to midnight Valet parking available
www.congres-auteuil.com
Sébillon
Tel. 01 46 24 71 31
20, av. Charles de Gaulle - 92200 Neuilly Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to midnight - Valet parking available
www.sebillon.com
L’Européen
Tel. 01 43 43 99 70
21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am
www.l-europeen.com
64 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Design by Agence PORTOFINO - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond
Tel. 01 45 74 17 24
80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available
dining
Chocolate Box
Satisfy Your Chocolate Craving By Sandra Iskander
Everyone’s favourite character, Forrest Gump, once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get”, but here in Paris we know exactly what we’re going to get when it comes to chocolat.
1 - It attracts everyone for its famous Africain hot chocolate, but in Angelina’s historical tea salon you can also find chocolate boxes and chocolate blocks to take home. Chocolate truffles, creamy praline-filled chocolate and milk chocolate with caramel are only some of the delicious offerings. 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00 2 - In its very first Parisian shop, you are invited to taste Le Chocolat des Français’s selection of chocolat wrapped in very Frenchy illustrations. Made in France, the chocolates here answer all desires, from dark chocolate connoisseurs to sweet tooth lovers of milk chocolate, everyone will be satisfied. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 47 03 96 10
2 1
3 - Award-winning Bonnat chocolate is the treasure trove for all chocoholics. Famous for its catalogue of dark chocolate, made exclusively with cocoa beans from the same origin, the house’s selection of chocolate includes chocolate using cocoa beans from Mexico and the Ivory Coast. 189 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 61 02 58
3
4 - Jadis et Gourmande’s T7 chocolate box is a chocolate wonderland with chocolatecovered nuts, creamy praline, smooth dark chocolate and even chocolate buttons with dried fruit. 56 rue Saint-Placide (6th), 01 42 22 05 14
Bonnat Selva Maya © Maria Spera
5 - In the recently opened Bernachon chocolate shop, the famous chocolatier of Lyon, you can discover the house’s signature Palet d’Or, dark chocolate enhanced with fresh cream and decorated with gold flakes. 127 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 88 33 79 59 6 - In Weiss’s orange and brown box uncover the chocolate-maker’s signature dark chocolate-dipped candied orange peel. Available at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées 60 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 83 65 61 00
4 5 6 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 65
Address Book
dining
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dining on the seine Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)
Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro
Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)
The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. Metro: Pont de Sully
food & wine Beaupassage
This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), Metro: Rue du Bac
Fauchon
A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Metro: Madeleine
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite
This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host
of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. Metro: La Muette
La Maison Plisson
This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissart
Nicolas
The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Metro: Madeleine
around Louvre & PaLais royaL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50. Metro: Les Halles
Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)
The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Daily L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Wen-Sun L&D, Tues L only. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Metro: Palais Royal
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Metro: Opéra
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Metro: Tuileries
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. Metro: Palais Royal
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Daily L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. Metro: Grands Boulevards
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Yachts de Paris | dining on the seine 66 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Djakarta Bali | indonesian (1st)
dining
Address Book
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Metro: Concorde
Le marais (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. Metro: Bastille
Breakfast in America - American (€€)
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. Daily B, L&D. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. Metro: Saint-Paul
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Metro: Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro
(€€€€€)
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. Metro: Arts et Métiers
Quartier Latin & saint-germain (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. You might try a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the
balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Metro: Odéon
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. Metro: Jussieu
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)
Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light meals and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Marsan-Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Mon-Fri L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Metro: Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood
(€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. Metro: Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves
finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Metro: Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Metro: Maubert-Mutualité
Le Select - Brasserie (€€)
This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 . Metro: Vavin
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Metro: Saint-Michel
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D,. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Metro: Saint-Michel
around the eiffeL tower & Les invaLides (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. Metro: Rue du Bac
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal | ContemPorary (1st)
La Méditerranée | seafood (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67
dining
Address Book Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Metro: Bir-Hakeim
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€) The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, mushroom pasta and duck breast with cherry sauce. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Le Récamier - Classic French
(€€)
This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
around the ChamPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie
(€€€)
An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Daily, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Metro: Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€) This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The fish dishes are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Metro: George V
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€) The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Metro: SaintPhilippe-du-Roule
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€) The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily B, L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. Metro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)
This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. Metro: Villiers
Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)
This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Wed-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Pavillon Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Daily D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Tues-Fri L&D,
Mon L only. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau
Monsieur - French (€€€€) This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Metro: George V
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€) Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat L. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Metro: Alma Marceau
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€) This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. Metro: Alma-Marceau
around oPéra garnier & PigaLLe (9th, 10th, 18th) CoCo - Contemporary (€€€) This delightful restaurant in the Garnier Opera House serves delicious contemporary cuisine in a refined atmosphere. Starters include tuna tataki and sea bream tartar while good mains include filet of cod and a French-style veal chop served with mashed potatoes. And for dessert enjoy an Opéra pastry, thin sheets of chocolate filled with a coffee cream. Daily B, L & D. Palais Garnier, 1 Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86 80. Metro: Opéra
Friends & Family -Bistro (€€) This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. Metro: Bonne Nouvelle
Le Scribe - Gourmet (€€€) Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Metro: Opéra
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Monsieur | frenCh (8th) 68 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Ze Kitchen Galerie | fusion (6th)
dining
Address Book around BastiLLe (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Metro: Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Metro: Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. Metro: Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French
(€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented one-star Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Metro: Charonne
around montParnasse (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)
An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. Metro: Gobelins
La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)
This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm, Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. Metro: Vavin
Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the
best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Metro: Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily B, L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Metro: Montparnasse
Benkay - Japanese (€€€)
This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. Metro: Dupleix
troCadéro & Porte maiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Metro: Boissière
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat D only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. Metro: Iéna
La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)
This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. Metro: Ternes
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top
floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. Metro: Wagram
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-Mon, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Metro: Iéna
BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)
Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Metro: Porte de Pantin
Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. Metro: Gambetta
suBurBs not too far from Paris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt
ReminiSens - Classic French
(€€€€)
This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Wed-Sat. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Les Grandes Marches | Brasserie (12th)
Manko Paris | Peruvian (8th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 69
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Take in the last performance of An American in Paris (opposite page)
70 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Un Américain à Paris ©Shanghai Poly Grand Theatre
Shows | Concerts | Cocktails | Clubs | Cocktail Bars | Cabarets | Wine Bars
entertainment
Shows & Events
An American in Paris Celebrate the New Year with a magical day at the theatre and watch the last performance of An American in Paris on the 1st of January. The Théâtre du Châtelet is pulling out all the stops for the award-winning musical choreographed and directed by Christopher Wheeldon, creating a colourful set for the highly energetic show. To the music and lyrics by George Gershwin and Ira Gershwin, sit back and watch the story of Jerry unfold. - S.I.
Un Américain à Paris ©Shanghai Poly Grand Theatre; Opéra Garinier photo Stephan Gladieu
Théâtre du Châtelet 2 rue Edouard Colonne (1st), 01 40 28 28 28
Playing Detective Take part in a unique version of a whodunit game in the French capital’s plush opera house, Opéra Garnier. On Sunday the 12th of January, you are invited to help lift the curse of the Phantom of the Opera and to finally set him free by taking part in Inside Opera, an immersive experience that tests your detective skills. Through a series of puzzles and with the aid of actors in period costume, follow in the footsteps of the Phantom and try to help him escape, all the while roaming freely around the magnificent opera house, which is quite easily the added highlight of Inside Opera. Visit www.inside-infos.fr to book your tickets. - S.I. Opéra Garnier Place de l’Opéra (9th), 08 25 84 07 01 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 71
entertainment Clubs
Popping Up in the Club It won the 2019 Prix Villégiature Best Hotel Creativity in Europe award and now Le Brach hotel is showing off its creativity even further by transforming its Sports Club into Le Club. Once a month the hotel workout space is turning into a bonafide dance floor where DJs will be spinning for guests making their way into Le Club via a secretly hidden VIP access door or via the stairs from the hotel restaurant climbing into the City of Light’s coolest club. This month Le Club will be partying from 10pm to 2am on Thursday the 23rd of January. - S.I.
Theatrical Clubbing Clubbing in the City of Light just got a whole lot more exceptional with the opening of Joséphine, the first nightclub in Paris to open in a cultural institution, the Théâtre du Châtelet. From the same people who brought Paris Silencio club, Joséphine, designed by fashion designer Virgil Abloh and interior designer Ben Kelly, is sprawled over two floors and boasts a cocktail bar, which is set in the theatre’s historical Grand Foyer dating back to 1862, and a terrace offering a breathtaking view of the city. Party at Joséphine every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from 11pm. - S.I. Joséphine 1 Place du Châtelet (1st), 06 45 96 61 67 72 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Joséphine at Théâtre du Chatelet, Paris © Matthieu Salvaing
Le Club 37 rue de la Pompe (16th)
entertainment Concerts
An Evening with Bowie
Mike Garson © 2018 Steve Rose
David Bowie is being celebrated on the 26th of January at the Salle Pleyel with an exceptional concert being held by musicians who played in Bowie’s different bands over the decades. Leading the charge is Mike Garson, Bowie’s longest standing pianist, playing alongside guitarists Gerry Leonard and Carmine Rojas. The A Bowie Celebration concert promises to be an unforgettable evening of Bowie songs that is not to be missed for fans. - S.I. Salle Pleyel 252 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 76 49 43 13
A call to awaken your senses...
Restaurant 8:30 pm - 12:15 am Cabaret 10 pm - 4 am Closed on sundays and mondays
www.secretsquare.. 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 73
entertainment Cabarets
Lido
CRAZY HORSE
LIDO
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche
PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Oiseau Paradis, is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 330 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm.
Lido ® Pascaline LABARRERE
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
74 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020 AP WHERE PARIS_UK_181x132_NOEL_2019.indd 1
28/10/2019 18:54
Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185E - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77E - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM E185 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM E77
MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM
Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. Metro: Bastille
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. Metro: Pyramides
Kléber Bar
Buddha-Bar
This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Metro: Concorde
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. Metro: Boissière
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Le Bristol Bar
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Metro: Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Sentier
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Metro: Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. Metro: Tuileries
Hotel Providence
Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. Metro: Concorde
Le Bar
Prescription Cocktail Club
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. Metro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Metro: Vavin
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. Metro: Victor Hugo
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. Metro: Pyramides
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. Metro: George V
Le Rubis
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. Metro: Bréguet-Sabin This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Mabillon
The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. Metro: Les Halles
casino Club Impérial
Located inside the Galerie Masséna with its own entrance, this private gaming club offers 20 gaming tables for playing Baccarat, Poker 21, Stud Poker, Ultimate Poker and Omaha Poker among others. There is a Franco-Asian bar and restaurant with a snacking menu on the premises. Open daily from 6pm to 5am. 23 ave Ivry (13th), 01.76.21.20.00. Metro: Porte de Choisy
jazz clubs
Ice Kube Paris
76 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Les Ambassadeurs
Moonshiner
Le Lucien Bar
Experimental Cocktail Bar | Bars & Wine Bars
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. Metro: Pont Neuf
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil
Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. Metro: Strasbourg Saint-Denis The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. Metro: La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. Metro: Saint-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently
Moonshiner | bars & wine bars
entertainment
Address Book
renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. Metro: Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened in 1975, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. TuesSat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. Metro: Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. Metro: Château d’Eau
gentlemen’s clubs The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. Metro: Ternes
night clubs L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield
Hotel Providence ©Benoir Linero
Le Mona Lisa
Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Social Club
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. Metro: Bourse
Les Bains
Pink Paradise
Le Duplex
armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile
This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. Metro: Rambuteau
Medellin
This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Pachamama
This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. Metro: Bastille
Hotel Providence | Bars & Wine Bars
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. Metro: Porte-Maillot
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. Metro: George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. Metro: Sentier
Vanity Paris
This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. Metro: Pyramides
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. Metro: Palais Royal
magical & opera shows Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. Metro: Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are Englishspeaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché SainteCatherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. Metro: Saint-Paul
Silencio | night clubs w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 77
The Guide
services
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains
medical services
Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes
American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,
before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com
SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.
limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50
92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge
Paris districts
rental cars & scooters
Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr
tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.
1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques. 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.
hair salons
real estate agencies
6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.
Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),
Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the
01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde
visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com
78 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde
impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.
8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.
9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the
sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.
10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie. 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.
18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.
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Services
Paris Metro
Informations
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◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system? ◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
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◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 16.90€). This map includes the new tramway line.
◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am. ◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14. 80 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
St-Ouen Mairie de Clichy
J. Auriol Charlebourg
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My Paris
Christophe Bedoin
Head Concierge at Sofitel Paris Baltimore Tour Eiffel
Panthéon
Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? Visit the Latin Quarter, the Conciergerie and the Sainte-Chapelle, Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis. It is cosmopolitan and so Parisian. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Carte Blanche the restaurant at the Sofitel Paris Baltimore, where I like to eat fish. Les Marches, the lunch on Sunday afternoon is so nice. No tourists, only neighbourhood people. Pages, I like his vision of French cuisine.
s
What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? The Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre. Montmartre is supposedly where one of the first Catholic masses in town was held and Sacré-Coeur is certainly the most contemporary church and was paid for by the citizens of Paris. The Louvre, for me it
82 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2020
Sacré-Coeur
Les Marches Restaurant
is a historic book that we can call, Louvre or the history of architecture for dummies. The Panthéon… simply a gem.
Le Jardin des Plantes, the oldest zoo in town with a visit of the Evolution Gallery. La Villette and the Tuileries Garden.
If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? The Right Bank is certainly the best one for the department stores, but I like to go on the Right Bank in the Marais district. From the Marais it is easy to cross the river and go onto the Latin Quarter.
What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? The rooftop at the Peninsula and L’Ambre in the 17th arrondissement
What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? In autumn a nice sunny afternoon in the garden of the Château de Breteuil, the best vista in the Chevreuse Valley. In the summer an afternoon at Versailles, including a picnic. A horse drawn carriage ride. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots.
Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? The new brunch at Jacopo, as well as brunch at the Royal Monceau. Teatime at Carette on the Place de Trocadéro.
My Perfect Day 9am: Walk through the Marais, and stop by Le Merveilleux de Fred 12pm: Lunch at Le Petit Pontoise 3pm: Visit and have teatime at Musée Jacquemart-André 9pm: Dinner at Pirouette
where
®
Your Guide to the World
Carte Blanche at Sofitel Baltimore Tour Eiffel © DR; Sacré-Coeur: iStockphoto 2019 © AndresGarciaM; Les Grandes Marches © Stefan Meyer, Francis Hammond, Agence Portofino; Panthéon: iStockphoto 2019 © Pilin Petunyia
Carte Blanche at Sofitel Baltimore Tour Eiffel
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