Where Paris magazine, December 2019 by Where Paris

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The Celebration Continues

Christmas Lights and Sites

Discover the French drink that has everyone popping

Go on a tour of the festive markets in Paris and in France

The guide 24 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 56 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 70 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 84 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 94 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings DE C E MBE R 2 0 19

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue No 311

Paradis Latin Celebrates the New Year with French Flair

GirafeSia Phot

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WP DECEMBER 2019 COVER.indd 1

13/11/2019 16:36

Paradis Latin turns its cabaret into a showstopping act with Miss France Cover Photo © Alix Malka

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4 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2019

La Scène Photo © Benoît Linéro

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LA MARTINA PARIS 39 rue Saint Placide, VI Tél +33 (0)143 27 88 42

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Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM |

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

WHERE PARIS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com www.parismap.fr PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com

Our favourite time of the year is upon us and we couldn’t be happier.

EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

The naughty and nice list has been put together, the Christmas tree

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

festively decorated and the long list of gift ideas selected. To celebrate this magical time of year we have put together a festive issue for you with plenty of gift ideas to place under the tree, a gorgeous photo shoot for all your end of year party inspirations and a guide to the best pastry chef creations for the end of year celebrations.

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko ADVERTISING  KEY ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon* DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

Christmas and the New Year wouldn’t be the same without lots of bubbles and in our The Celebration Continues feature we walk you

OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy*

through the finest Champagne houses and bring you the best spots in

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Paris where you can enjoy a glass of the celebratory drink. And in the

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

city that always shines it is hard to believe that it could get any brighter

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

in Paris, but it certainly does, so make sure you take a stroll along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, which is adorned with more lights for the festive season, to experience the magic.

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PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson

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And it wouldn’t be Christmas without taking in a show or two and in our Entertainment section we bring you the classic and contemporary shows that are taking centre stage this month, as well as a wonderful chateau experience courtesy of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. From everyone here at Where we hope you enjoy this issue and we

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wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Décembre 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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December

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

Cocktail Hour All month Toast the fact of being in Paris during the most magical time of the year with a drink at the new speakeasy bar at Bambou, one of the French capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular Thai restaurants. Follow the plush corridor with sexy red pillars that lead you straight into the well-hidden cocktail rendezvous. 23 rue des Jeuneurs (2nd), 01 40 28 98 30

8 W H E R E PA r i S i D E C E M B E r 2019

PARIS THIS MONTH

Joyeux Noël December 25 Celebrate Christmas the old-fashioned way with magic and lots of treats. Paris’s iconic hotel, the ritz, is setting up Le Chalet de Noël in the heart of the Place Vendôme, where you can soak in the Christmas spirit with a cup of hot chocolate and spice cake under the twinkling lights of the famous square. 15 Place Vendôme (1st)

Happy New Year December 31

Le Bambou photo Michel Figuet; Ritz Paris, Feuilletés noisette et chocolat © Bernhard Winkelmann; The First Thing About Love, 2018. Ink on C-print © Shirin Neshat. Courtesy Noirmontartproduction

From everyone at Where we would like to wish you all a very Happy New Year.

Art inspiring Art All month inspired by the movie Looking for Oum Kulthum, photographer Shirin Neshat has created a series of photos that resemble movie posters from the 50s that are being shown in the Association Azzedine Alaïa gallery. The movie, which inspired the series of works, centres on the iconic Egyptian singer Oum Kulthum, who is in turn portrayed by actresses in Neshat’s vibrant photographs. 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 72 30 69

Knitted Hobbies From December 3 to 23 We Are Knitters, the name famous for knitting kits, is opening up a pop-up store for the holiday season, offering different kits for all levels of knitting. if you’re looking to create something new, and made by you, this is a fun, and warm way, to becoming a bona fide knitter. 5 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs DECEMBER 1-2 SALON SAVEURS This is a joyful celebration of glorious French gastronomy with regional specialties and luxury foods and a place to purchase and savour delicacies. Cooking demonstrations, recipe exchanges and conferences are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, until 6pm on the 2nd. www.salon-saveurs.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)

DECEMBER 4-8 SALON DU CHEVAL DE PARIS

Silky Hermès Through to December 8 Under the glass roof of the Carreau du Temple in the Marais neighbourhood, luxury French fashion house Hermès is revealing the artistry behind its famous silk squares. The Hermès Carré Club is giving fashion lovers the opportunity to meet the artists behind the house’s illustrations with meet and greets that will see visitors meet the artists and see them illustrate live as they share their passion for creating wearable art. Entry is free but reservations are required by simply visiting hermes.com/carreclub. 4 rue Eugène-Spuller (3rd)

This Paris Horse Show is regarded as one of the finest in the world. Dedicated to the universe of the horse, it embodies equestrian elegance. Breeders will be on hand as well as myriad horses, ponies and donkeys. A host of competitions, including the Longines Masters show jumping events, and everything related to the world of horses are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm on the 4th and 5th, from 9am to 10pm on the 6th and 7th and from 9am to 7pm on the 8th. www.salon-cheval.com Parc des Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte

DECEMBER 6-8 SALON NOEL EN BIO ET VINIBIO

Barbie’s World…

Horsing Around

All month

From December 5 to 8

... Or rather her dream home has been transported to Galeries Lafayette where shoppers can live their dream by walking through the iconic house. For fans of the famous doll, young and old, this is a wonderful experience to have the chance to walk through Barbie’s Dream House.

The Parc des Expositions is hosting the 11th edition of the Longines Masters Series. The prestigious equestrian show is open to the public to watch and is the chance to see the world’s best riders compete. This magnificent show jumping event will see an impressive 350 horses and 145 riders from 30 different countries compete over the 4-day sporting event. Visit www.longinesmasters.com for all practical information and to reserve your tickets.

5th floor, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 10 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

This fair brings together everything organic for Christmas including decoration making and culinary workshops. The leading French and European producers of organic and biodynamic wine are on hand as well for conferences, food pairings and tastings with commentaries by experts. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm. www.salon-vinibio.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)

DECEMBER 7-15 NAUTIC SALON NAUTIQUE This is a premium trade show for boating enthusiasts. Sailboats, motorboats and the latest yachts are all on hand for this annual rendezvous of the sea when the exhibition centre is turned into the largest indoor port in France. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, until 10pm on the 13th and until 6pm on the 15th. www.salonnautiqueparis.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)

Paradis Latin

Gets Very Cheeky Created in 1889, the Paradis Latin pulsates in the heart of the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank in the 5th arrondissement of the French capital. Originally the Théâtre Latin, which was built in 1803 and which quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin Quarter, the theatre was rebuilt in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel after a fire destroyed it in 1870. Renamed Paradis Latin, the music hall became an extravagant cabaret of dance and music, and today, the cabaret’s current revue, L’Oiseau Paradis, is a true Parisian show full of fun and magic.

12 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Where Paris Promotion

irected and choreographed by Kamel Ouali, a talented artist who has collaborated in the past with Mariah Carey and Celine Dion, the show features a talented dance troupe that seduces the audience with their energy and fabulous costumes. And only in one of the city’s oldest cabarets are the guests treated to a show that stars Iris Mittenaere, the former 2016 Miss Universe, to its stages on exclusive nights for an unforgettable revue. Taking to the stage, Iris headlines the L’Oiseau Paradis, with the flamboyant show featuring no less than 330 costumes, designed by couture house On Aura Tout Vu, who has previously worked on stage costumes for Katy Perry and Beyoncé. The spectacular show is unlike any other cabaret in Paris, resembling more of a concert with numerous artists performing, the Paradis Latin is a wonderful rendezvous to see a song and dance show with hit songs from everyone’s favourite artists. Hits from Lady Gaga, Madonna and even from the Hollywood movie, The Greatest Showman, bring a little bit of Vegas to the fashion capital. Animated by the cabaret “director”, a French comic, the show mixes videos with live choreography, treating the audience to a visual art show with elaborate sets with comic relief between numbers courtesy of the director, who herself is quite the entertaining singer. Acrobatic acts and a standout number featuring a bathtub keeps the audience wanting more with the cabaret act bringing a little bit of sexiness, a little bit of cheek, and a whole lot of sensuality to the act. And of course a highlight of the hour and a half cabaret is the iconic French dance, the Cancan. Here at the Paradis Latin guests are given a front row seat to the cheekiest Cancan ever danced in the French capital, and the most original. The cabaret is open from Wednesday to Monday with a lunch and show option, dinner and show or show only with Champagne. Reservations are recommended.

Paradis Latin 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th) 01 43 25 28 28

Feature

The Celebration Continues By Patricia Valicenti

Champagne remains a continual discovery as well as an on-going, continuing celebration. Vintage champagnes are released by the houses, producers both big and small continue to innovate, family houses remain entrenched on the scene elaborating original champagnes and new houses are emerging on the market with different, often bold approaches to champagne making.

14â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2019

Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel de Crillon (opposite page) and Gilberte, the bar and restaurant where 38 different champagnes by the bottle are served

his year several houses brought out champagnes from the vintage years. A case in point is the 2006 vintage, a vintage marked by plenty of sunshine, from the house of Rare, which has just emerged from the cellar. This aromafilled champagne is marked by a slightly smoky taste described as solar and its greenish golden colour is iridescent. It is champagne that can be savoured until 2030 and up until 2035. The house draws inspiration from Marie-Antoinette and often works with high jewellery houses and designers to elaborate its bottles.

Les Ambassadeurs Photo © Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel

The Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007 vintage of the house of Ruinart, founded in 1729, and regarded as the oldest of the champagne houses, has brought out this rare vintage rosé, which was secreted away in the house’s chalk cellars. Their 2007 vintage is a rare vintage that was marked by an early harvest in August and is dominated by Chardonnay grapes. Complex and dynamic, it has a deep pink colour with a coppery sparkle. The house of Moët & Chandon is ringing out the year in Imperial style with its emblematic Moët Impériale to celebrate its 150th anniversary. The Impériale was named in memory of Napoléon Bonaparte, and it is the house’s emblematic champagne and has come down through the ages with this year’s Impériale being brought out in a limited edition bottle with the logo Moët Impériale 150 ans. Dom Pérignon’s Vintages 2008 and Rosé 2006 have been brought out this year in a distinguished bottle and magnum bottle designed by American rock star Lenny Kravitz. The collection can be discovered in the Dom Pérignon Pop-Up store located on the first floor of the Galeries Lafayette department store through to January 5th. The venue immerses the visitor into the world of Dom Pérignon with wine experts on-hand to take you through the champagne voyage and it is the only place in France where you can purchase the magnum versions of the vintages, only two of which, handsigned by the artist, are available in France.

Patience is the by word at the house of Krug, founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug in Reims, which this year has brought out its 2006 vintage, retained in the cellars for 12 years, which imparted upon the champagne balance and finesse. The year 2006 was regarded as a particularly hot and sunny one in Champagne country with capricious weather conditions alternating dry spells with intense rainy periods. The house of G.H. Mumm is showcasing the Pinot Noir grape variety this year with an exceptional millésime (vintage), the Mumm Brut Millesimé 2013, which is structured and lively made with 74% Pinot Noir grapes emanating from the grand cru growing villages on the Montagne de Reims. The 2013 vintage was marked by a hot, sunny and stormy summer and a late harvest in October resulting in very healthy grapes, well balanced in their degree of alcohol making for a powerful champagne. A nice find this year comes from the house of Lallier whose Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, made entirely of Chardonnay grapes, offers the crispness of a Blanc de Blancs but a special finesse for all of the grapes come from a single parcel of vineyard, Loridon, in the mythical growing region of Aÿ, where the soil is cultivated without insecticides and without pesticides. Extremely dry, the champagne, of which only 4000 bottles are produced annually, remains in the cellars for three years. Meanwhile, the cooperative of Prestige des Sacres has brought out its Brut Nature, made with equal proportions of the three classic Champagne grape varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. The Sacre in the cooperative’s name means coronation in French and is a reference to the crowning of the kings of France in the cathedral of Reims. The bishopric already had vineyards producing wines that were used in these ceremonies centuries before champagne was being produced. Champagne has, too, been over the centuries a family affair. A case in point is the Fleury family whose story and vineyards are found in w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 15

Feature

the southern region of Champagne in the Côte des Bar. Here they grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but two extremely rare varieties for champagne, the Pinot Blanc and the Pinot Gris, as well. Founded by Emile Fleury in 1894, his grandson Jean-Pierre would take over the reins in 1962 and would introduce reasoned agriculture, before beginning the conversion of the house’s vineyards into biodynamic agriculture, the first of the organic farming movements, in 1989, one of the first in Champagne to do so. The fourth generation of the Fleury family, Jean-Sébastien, Morgane and Benoît, is now at the helm of the domain and in 2012 the house launched a first, champagne without sulphur. Meanwhile, the house of Boizel, a family house currently headed up by the sixth generation of the Boizel family, Lionel and Florent, is celebrating the 20th edition of its limited edition champagne Boizel By, which is habitually “dressed up” by a designer for the holiday season. This year the Belgian interior decorator Victoria Maria Geyer has created a whirling swirling sparkling garland in three festive colours, pink, gold and silver. The champagne, an assembly of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, has been brought out in a limited edition of 200 bottles. There are also new players on the horizon, too, in this word of champagne that is a continual discovery. The recently founded house of EPC, a start-up that launched its first champagnes in June, seeks to rejuvenate the image of champagne by offering for instance on the back of the bottles a heat sensitive patch that lets you know when the bottle is cold enough to drink or you can take a picture of the bottle with your smart phone and launch an application in which through augmented reality the bottle will talk about itself. The house’s champagnes, extra brut, brut and rosé, are elaborated with only Chardonnay grapes, from one single terroir and one single year and founders Jérôme and Edouard suggest drinking the champagne in a blida, a typical glass from the region. The Charles Legend Champagne is another relatively new house, founded some 10 years ago by Mickaël Devena, Valentine Clerc and Pierre-Emmanuel Jacquin, whose champagnes are made exclusively with grapes from the sunny Côte de Bar and whose objective from the outset was to reduce as much as it is possible the sulphates and the sugar in their champagnes, a Brut Rosé, a Blanc de Blanc, a Brut Royal, a Brut Premier and the Brut Nature. The latter is made exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes and has no added sugar, and the result is a natural wine, which its name indicates, Charles Legend Brut Nature.

16 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Jean-Sébastien Fleury of the house of Fleury elaborating the house’s champagnes

Champagne can be enjoyed all around the French capital. On the Right Bank the elegant Les Ambassadeurs bar in Hôtel de Crillon offers a fine range of champagnes in an elegant setting while Gilberte on the Left Bank has no less than 38 different champagnes by the bottle that can be enjoyed during a meal inside or outside on the greenery-filled heated terrace in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes Prés neighbourhood. And the Cave Fauchon wine shop offers no less than 100 different kinds of champagne including 40 from small, independent producers. Address Book Les Ambassadeurs Hôtel de Crillon 10 Place de la Concorde (8th) 01 44 71 15 00 Cave Fauchon 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th) 01 70 39 38 00 Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th) 01 42 82 34 56 Gilberte 79 rue de Seine (6th) 01 42 03 94 59

Christmas Celebrations

Christmas Lights

and Sites By Patricia Valicenti People throughout the world have been celebrating Christmas for two millennia now with bright lights, gift giving, feasting and celebrations. But before it was also a celebration in the darkness of mid-winter when the solstice would arrive promising brighter days ahead and a time to celebrate light. Today, throughout France Christmas lights and markets abound offering a jubilatory experience for old and young alike. Swedish Church Christmas in Sweden is a major cultural celebration that typically begins on Saint Lucia Day, December 13th, and runs through to Saint Knut’s Day on January 13th. The Swedish Church in Paris hosts a traditional Swedish Christmas market from November 29th through to December 1st filled with handmade decorations, Swedish specialties and crafts. 9 rue Médéric (17th), 01 44 29 70 00

Les FEeries d’Auteuil Refined articles from craftsmen from all over France are on the agenda at the Christmas market of Auteuil, entitled Les Féeries d’Auteuil (The Fairyland of Auteuil), held in the elegant neighbourhood of the same name, from the 7th to the 15th of December. Champagne, Christmas trees, Nativity figurines and plenty of decorations and gifts are all on the agenda. Proceeds from the market are donated to the French charity Les Apprentis d’Auteuil that assists children and families in need. 40 rue Jean de La Fontaine (16th) La DEfense Christmas Market The largest Christmas market in the Paris region is found in La Défense just on the western edge of the city. Being held for the 25th time this year, and through to December 28th, it features more than 350 stands bursting with Christmas decorations, gift ideas and fine food. Festive touches include the Nutcracker, giant rabbits, red and white chalets and magicians, jugglers and fire breathers. Parvis de La Défense, 92400, La Défense

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Bercy Village Festivities and illuminations are also being played out in the charming venue of Bercy Village in eastern Paris. Here interspersed with eateries, boutiques and exhibition spaces one finds an array of lights, embodied in the 28 light sculptures that hug the trees in the village’s central passage. Weekend events include playful elves, fun-lovi ng penguins, Christmas carols and Santa Claus. The annual illumination event is being held through to January 16th. 28 rue François Truffaut (12th), 01 40 02 90 80

Reims © Cyrille Beudot Office de Tourisme du Grand Reims; The Unicorn Game at the Fête des Merveilleux. Photo © Pavillons de Bercy; Gare de l’Est © Palais du pain d’épices

MusEe des Arts Forains A unique and festive time is to be had right by Bercy Village at the Festival du Merveilleux (The Festival of Marvels), which is held at the Musée des Arts Forains, a museum devoted to the fairground arts. The museum is transformed into a huge celebration space filled with garlands and climbing trees, jugglers, story tellers and musicians in a festive atmosphere replete with carnival rides, mystical games and a cabaret for live performances. Being held for the 10th time this year and taking place from December 26th through to January 5th, it offers an opportunity to see spectacular carrousels and fine carnival pieces. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01 43 40 16 22

Gare de l’Est You can take in the magic of an Alsatian Christmas right in the heart of Paris at the Gare de l’Est train station. Here gingerbread, Christmas cookies and the great gastronomic specialties of Alsace are all on the agenda like foie gras, sauerkraut, wines and jams. There are myriad tastings and gourmet food baskets to be won, and a giant gingerbread Saint Nicolas greets the visitors to the market, which runs from December 4th through to December 20th. Place du 11 Novembre 1918 (10th)

Reims Christmas Market Just a 45-minute train ride from Paris, the city of Reims, the capital of Champagne country, hosts a delightful Christmas market at the foot of its famous cathedral bathed in special lights for the Christmas season. Traditional crafts and Christmas offerings are on hand in this magical setting before the cathedral where the kings of France were crowned. Concerts and parades are all on the agenda during the market season, which is held through to December 22nd. Place du Cardinal Luçon, 51100 Reims

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 19

CoLmaR CHRistmas maRkEt The delightful alsatian city of Colmar hosts no less than 6 Christmas markets in settings reminiscent of a fairyland and last year received the Best European Christmas Lights award. a highlight of the season is the gourmet market at the foot of the cathedral where nine chefs concoct special gourmet menus that you can eat at the market or take away with you. The town itself offers a perfect setting for the markets with its traditional houses, canals, ﬂoral displays and fine wines. The markets are held through to December 29th.

stRasBouRg CHRistmas maRkEt There are incredibly charming and authentic Christmas markets to be found throughout France notably in the region of alsace where the Strasbourg Christmas season is famous throughout the world and whose Christmas market is regarded as the oldest in France, and this year is its 449th year. scenic stalls abound near the cathedral but the market of some 300 chalets extends throughout the entire city, which settles into a light-filled fairy-tale-like setting during the Christmas season. Christmas decorations, Nativity scenes, and handmade toys abound in an atmosphere delicately perfumed with the scents of spices and mulled wine. The market and celebrations are held through to December 30th.

A Christmas Getaway

estled in the forest in the middle of alsace is the fairy-tale 5-star hotel La Cheneaudière. This charming spa destination is a wonderful way to celebrate the end of one year and the start of a new, and makes for an ideal rendezvous after discovering the region’s festive Christmas markets. a member of the relais & Chateaux group, the hotel is family-run since its opening in 1975, and offers a warm, homey feel with an unforgettable mountain getaway charm. The real highlight of the hotel though is its spa. Focused on being accommodating to every client, the spa has recently introduced a vegan ritual, an hour and a half treatment that starts with a massage, followed by a facial using a cornﬂower scrub from the Vosges mountain range, and ends in a relaxing and nourishing bath with organic oat milk. The vegan ceremony, in a log cabin-style massage room, is a way to connect and embrace nature while relieving the body of its accumulated stress. The spa also boasts a Flotarium, bringing the Dead sea to alsace with a salt-water pool with a high

20 W HE RE Pa r i s i D E C E M B E r 2019

By Sandra Iskander

salt level to mirror the famous salt lake, inviting you to ﬂoat your worries away. a pleasure that everyone partakes in while away on holiday, and in a hotel, is breakfast, and here the most important meal of the day is a celebration of the best the region has to offer. soft pretzels, regional cheese, handcrafted chocolate and hazelnut spreads, and creamy salted butter from a local producer are all deliciously on offer as part of the buffet breakfast, which unsurprisingly won the 2019 Prix Villégiature award for Best Breakfast in a Hotel in Europe. Just a quick trip from Gare de l’Est in Paris, La Cheneaudière Hotel & spa, which has previously welcomed sports stars, artists and even the French First Lady, Brigitte Macron, is exactly what the doctor ordered if you are looking to spend a few days in relaxation mode, in a discrete yet very charming location. La Cheneaudière Hotel & Spa 3 rue du Vieux Moulin, 67420 Colroy-la-Roche, 03 88 97 61 64

The Christmas market in Colmar © All Rights Reserved ; The Christmas market in Strasbourg. Photo © Aurélie Cottier - Office de Tourisme de Strasbourg et sa Région; La Cheneaudière & Spa © Jérôme Mondière

Christmas Celebrations

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Happy Birthday

t is the most celebrated cabaret in the world, a cabaret whose legendary stage has played host to some of the world’s most famous performers, a stage where the French Cancan was perfected, a stage that continues to sparkle and glow 130 years after it all began. The Moulin Rouge opened its doors on October 6th in 1889 and today it continues to mesmerize spectators from all over the world. Mistinguett performed here as did Edith Piaf, Frank Sinatra, Charles Aznavour and Liza Minnelli. It has been immortalized in film, notably Jean Renoir’s French Cancan and Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge. The Moulin Rouge has lived down through the ages, two wars and even a fire. It would become the largest cinema in Europe for a time in the 1940s before being revived as a great music hall in 1951. Its first review in 1963, Frou-Frou, was so successful that since that time all of the reviews at the Moulin Rouge begin with an F. And this festive anniversary ambiance offers a perfect setting to ring in the holiday season where a great show, fine dining and dancing are all on the agenda. For 130 years later, the Moulin Rouge continues to offer a dream-filled 22 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2019

experience with its current show Féerie which has been applauded by 10 million spectators since its inception. The show is performed twice each night with 60 artists on the celebrated stage, superb sets hand-made by expert craftsmen, original music, two hours of enchantment blending together dance tableaux and surprise numbers and of course the emblematic French Cancan.

feathers, rhinestones and spangles. The Moulin Rouge is especially concerned with preserving the unique know-how of fashioning show costumes and has recently purchased the craft studios that master this savoir-faire: the Maison Février, the master feather maker, the Maison Clairvoy, the historic shoemaker of the Moulin Rouge and the Atelier Valentin, master embroiderers.

And this spectacular world comes alive bedecked in 1,000 costumes of

Dining is a delight at the Moulin Rouge, the first cabaret to feature in the prestigious

Façade Moulin Rouge ©Moulin Rouge - D. Duguet; French Cancan Féerie ©Moulin Rouge - S. Franzese; Prologue Féerie ©Moulin Rouge - B. Royer

MOULIN ROUGE

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION Gault & Millau gastronomic guide, and the holiday menus are elaborated exclusively from noble products and carefully prepared by Chef David Le Quellec. The dining room team of 120 maître d’s, head waiters and waiters will usher you into the Belle Epoque hall with its authentic wall frescoes and Morris columns with the original posters of artists who performed here. Before settling in to become riveted to the show, The Christmas Time Dinner is being served from December 22nd through to January 4th. Elaborated by Mr. Le Quellec, the delicious dinner, which includes a half bottle of champagne, starts out with a selection of hors d’oeuvres. For an appetizer you can savour Isigny preserved salmon or duck foie gras marinated in aged port. Delectable main dishes come next with an arctic char served on a brioche and accompanied by caviar and confit potatoes and watercress or you can opt for breast of 100-days old chicken stuffed with truffles, Swiss chard and topped with an Albufeira sauce. Dessert is the traditional French Christmas dessert, the Yule log. And a souvenir of the Moulin Rouge is offered to each couple. Chef David Le Quellec has also imagined and orchestrated a very special New Year’s Eve dinner, served on December 31st at 7pm which is followed by a dance accompanied by the Moulin Rouge Orchestra, the show, midnight and wishes, a DJ party and a gift. It all begins with a selection of superb canapés before enjoying a sumptuous snow crab leg with a coulis of slightly smoked lettuce, cauliflower mousse and Kristal caviar or oven baked line-caught sea bass, served with aged Parmesan gnocchi and watercress coulis. A break between the appetizer and main courses comes with a Piña Colada-like libation. The main course is heart of beef fillet stuffed with foie gras poached in a truffle stew and served with winter vegetables basted in their own juices. The feast winds up with a special New Year dessert then coffee served with petits fours. You can also opt for one of the special soirée packages, which include a welcome drink, a bottle of wine or champagne and a special offer for the programme and a gift.

82 Boulevard de Clichy (18th) 01 53 09 82 82 M° Place de Clichy www.moulinrouge.fr

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The Guide

Shopping

By Sandra Iskander

Winter Essentials | Christmas Gift Ideas | Collaborations | Best of Beauty

Katerina wears Bono van Peursem Delphine Charlotte Parmentier necklace Ash boots Turn to page 38 for more looks from our A Fashion Force fashion shoot

Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48

24 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Photo © Aex Fadel

Caio wears Chris von Martial suit Uniqlo top Rolex watch Sandro shoes

Shopping

Winter Essentials

Keeping Warm in Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo’s autumn/winter collection is a beautifully tailored ensemble of form-fitting yet comfortable pieces that both flatter and let the body move freely without feeling restricted. Embracing leather and bringing it to life, the collection includes leather shirts and jumpsuits in a rainbow of autumnal colours, from Bordeaux red to warm orange. The collection also features chic coats including a cashmere coat with an oversized silk belt just waiting for you to wrap yourself in for a romantic walk through the streets of Paris. - S.I.

Le Coq Sportif © PALAST-JManigand

Salvatore Ferragamo Boutique 45 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 36 37

Toasty Feet French activewear brand Le Coq Sportif has teamed up with Arpin, a French company specialising in wool, to bring ladies and gentlemen Blazon Mid Arpin, a wintery version of their Blazon sneaker. Made in France, the sneakers combine the savoir-faire of the two houses, lining the inside of the leather sneakers and the high-top with wool, offering a chic and warm option for keeping toasty in the cooler months. - S.I. Le Coq Sportif Boutique 121 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 09 80 51 50 25 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 25

Shopping

Christmas Gift Ideas

Christmas MagiC By sandra iskander

Gift your lady boss this cheeky business cardholder from Bons Baisers de Paname. available at arty Dandy 46 rue de Turenne (6th), 09 81 82 28 88

Complete someone’s precious collection with Barbie’s 60th anniversary limited edition doll. available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 26 W HE RE Pa r i s i D E C E M B E r 2019

Let the fashion-lover in your life celebrate joyous moments in fashion with Dior’s gorgeous coffee table book, Moments of Joy. available at WHsmith, 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 53 45 84 40

Let your fashionista friend sparkle wherever they go with Longchamp’s sequined foldable bag. available exclusively at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Get your rebel teen these angelic wings from Pandora. Pandora Boutique, 20 rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4th), 01 57 40 83 53 Upgrade your teen’s watch game with Rado’s limited edition True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier, inspired by the “Father of Modernism”, Le Corbusier. Available at The Swatch Group Boutique 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 56 18 53

Gift a child this fun hand-knitted travel backgammon set by Molli and let them play wherever they are. Molli Boutique 252 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01 43 25 87 91 Light up and bring music to a child’s room with Bigben’s Bluetooth wireless speakers. Available at Toys “R” Us 15 Parvis de La Défense, 92800 Puteaux, 01 47 76 29 78

Present the little ones with their own Christmas bakery to build that comes complete with cookie cutters that they can use to help you make Christmas treats. Available at King Jouet 146 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 86 90 58 91

Help your teenager drain out the world with Kef’s Space One wireless headphones and their favourite music. Available at L’Auditorium Parisien 41 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01 42 74 04 44

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 27

Shopping

Christmas Gift Ideas

Count down to Christmas Day with creamy chocolate from Michel Cluizel. Michel Cluizel Boutique 3 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 80 06 84 00

Help a friend add a touch of colour to a fondue party with Mauviel 1830’s fondue set. Available at BHV Marais 52 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09 77 40 14 00

Amateurs of chocolate and red wine are in for a treat with Patrick Roger’s collection of red wine to be enjoyed with his Christmas collection of chocolate creations including this chocolate pinecone filled with chocolate covered almonds from the chocolatier’s very own almond farm. Patrick Roger Boutique 3 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 09 67 08 24 47

Add fun to someone’s dinner table with these emoji plates from Bernardau x Riccardo Giraudi. Bernardau Boutique 11 rue Royale (8th), 01 47 42 82 66 28 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Bernardau x Riccardo Giraudi Photo © Adrien Daste

Gift a tea lover, and make sure they never leave Paris behind, with Dammann Frères’s tea gift set that comes with an Eiffel Tower diffuser. Dammann Frères Boutique 15 Place des Vosges (4th), 01 44 54 04 88

Get your partner dancing back in time with Roberts’s retro revival istream 3 smart radio. available at Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

For fans of the iconic scent, the CK One Collector’s Edition comes with a new mix of notes including rhubarb, rosemary and grapefruit. available at sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Gift style to a jetsetter with Aviteur’s first collection of luxury luggage. available at Cabinet de Curiosité de l’Hôtel de Crillon 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 85

Offer someone memories by capturing the magic of Christmas with Apple’s new iPhone 11 Pro. apple store 114 ave des Champs-Elysees (8th), 01 70 98 09 00

For the person who has everything, this Belvedere vodka gift box comes with a ticket for 2 to fly over Warsaw to get a bird’s eye view of its fields of rye before spending 3 days and 2 nights in a 5-star hotel. available at La Grande Epicerie de Paris 38 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 00

Make someone crazy with the new Crazy Horse and Ladurée collaboration with the Crazy by Ladurée scented candle. Crazy Horse 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32

Keep someone’s feet happy with a pair of Doré Doré 1819’s printed socks. Doré Doré Boutique 66 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 48 85 52 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 29

Shopping

Collaborations

Keeping Cosy A worthy collaboration for this season is courtesy of skiwear experts Rossignol and French designer JeanCharles de Castelbajac. The autumn/winter 2019/2020 collection brings us items perfect for the ski slopes as well as pieces for the urban getaway. Puffer jackets, coats and tracksuit pants make up the collection that will take you from the French capital to Courchevel with fashionable ease. - S.I.

A Graphic Collaboration

Puma by Selena

Another collaboration to look out for this season is the collection designed by French graphic designer Jean Jullien for Petit Bateau. The capsule collection, for the whole family, grown-ups and kids, features animal print pieces in black and white. Dress your little girl in a Dalmatianprint dress, or why not try on the zebra-print sweater on for size. - S.I.

American singer Selena Gomez has collaborated once again with sports brand Puma and the result is an on-trend pair of sneakers that is both simple and bold. The Cali Bold pair of sneakers boasts a platform sole and Puma emblazoned on the back. - S.I.

Petit Bateau Boutique 13 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 42 65 26 26

Puma Store 22 blvd de Sébastopol (4th), 01 44 59 65 15

30 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Ptit bateau x Jean Julien © SUSPENDU

Rossignol Boutique 21 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 09 71 30 98 49

Where Paris Promotion

Sustainable meets

ExcEptional

at ICICLE’s Paris address A

n all-important Chinese saying is “man is an integral part of nature” (天人合一). By extension, it implies that we are mere custodians of planet Earth; so, the least we could do is to minimise the impact of our human activities. This philosophy was not lost on pioneers such as Chinese fashion brand ICICLE, a precursor of ecofriendly luxury, that has been advocating these values since day one, when it launched in 1997 in Shanghai. For ICICLE, whose mantra is ‘Made in Earth’, this has indeed been the guiding principle that has shaped every single aspect of the game-changing company. ICICLE is where one can find beautiful clothes and accessories that pay tribute to the riches of our planet by first and foremost respecting Nature, which in return, is the only way to fully nurture ourselves. To that end, the brand offers the ultimate wardrobe for both women and men: impeccably cut, effortlessly chic pieces with the best quality materials possible, all while guaranteeing that the manufacturing of each piece of their collections follows stringent Chinese and international environmental certification standards. It is

ethics steeped in the codes of unmitigated luxury. Not to rest on their laurels, the founders have also made it a priority to spread the word. Already with 267 boutiques in 70 cities in China, ICICLE has just opened their first foreign outpost in Paris, where the ICICLE design centre is also based. As for the location of the Parisian flagship, nothing evokes prestige better than avenue George V, right in the centre of high fashion and luxury in the French capital. It is at number 35 that ICICLE’s boutique has emerged, like a blissful retreat. Partnering with Bernard Dubois, the four-storey space is a carefully orchestrated tableau of volumes and clean lines. Within the store, one feels fully sheltered from the hustle and bustle outside, and it is in this restorative environment that one can safely browse and absorb the almost spiritual message of the brand that could well be summarized by “luxury can be part of nature”.

35 avenue George V (8th) +33 1 43 59 15 17 boutique.georgev@icicle.fr Mon-Sat 10:30am-19:30pm w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 31

Shopping For Him

Mesmerising Meteorite High watchmaking, artistic craftsmanship, technical prowess and a meteorite have all come together in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3. in this third interpretation of the timepiece which was first brought out in 2013 to mark the 180th anniversary of the house, the fine arts and crafts of hand-guillochage, engraving and grand feu enamel have all come into play along with the rarely seen craft of meteorite inlay. On the dial the geometric markings of the silvery-grey meteorite are complemented by deep blue aventurine and pure white grand feu enamel. The Gibeon meteorite chosen for the watch was found in Namibia and formed by the cooling of the asteroid fragment in outer space over the course of billions of years before smashing into the Earth in prehistoric times. Outfitted with a pink gold case, an in-house manual mechanical movement, the watch has a power reserve of 45 hours and is water resistant to 50 meters. This exceptional watch has been brought out in a limited edition of eight pieces. - P.V. 7 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 53 45 70 00

Under the historical glass rooftop of Galerie Vivienne is where you will find the aïzea boutique where luxurious leathergoods are put on-show, asserting their place in every gentleman’s collection of accessories. specialising in designs using exotic leather including python and alligator, aïzea offers shoppers a selection of handmade sneakers and bags ranging from backpacks to more traditional briefcases. The brand also offers demanding gentlemen a bespoke service by way of designing their own bag, offering them the opportunity to create a unique accessory. Meaning wind in the Basque language, aïzea takes gentlemen on a whirlwind voyage through their savoir-faire, starting from their 24-hour travel bag that is handcrafted in spain all the way to their alligator skin wallets, ensuring they are well-accessorised no matter where the wind takes them. - s.i. Aïzea Boutique 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09 86 58 69 41 32 W HE RE Pa r i s i D E C E M B E r 2019

Aïzea © DI MESSINA

Your Perfect Accessory

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Your Own

PRIVATE SPA

MAUD GANRY BOUTARIC, FOUNDER

n innovative French company gives you the opportunity to bring the total spa experience into your home or wherever you might happen to be. How to Spa is the concept designed by founder Maud Ganry Boutaric, a cosmetic engineer with a degree in spa management. After working in some of the leading hotel spas in Paris, she decided to recreate the spa experience with all of its rituals and cosmetics to take to wherever someone was, be it at home, at work or on vacation. The journey begins on the How to Spa website where the visitor is guided step by step into how to relax and take in the well being experience on one’s own through tutorials and relaxation and wellness kits conceived by spa professionals.

“I bring the spa to you,” said Mrs. Ganry Boutaric in an interview. On the site you can read one of the 15 tutorials on line as a guide book or watch a video, there are three, for tips for self-massage and stretching along with recommendations for ethical organic products that re-create the spa experience like cosmetics, finely made scarves, pillows and blankets, teas and

herbal teas as well as books. The website enables you to compose your kit according to your needs. How to Spa suggests that visitors to the site first determine the result they wish to obtain choosing between a cocooning experience, an energy boost or detox. Next on the agenda is to say where you are taking the spa to: home, work, to your hotel, in the plane or the train or on public transportation. The guides are conceived with wellbeing experts. And starting in November How to Spa’s wellbeing expert Fabienne Crocq will be available to work with you on a made-tomeasure programme and the first appointment is complimentary. Relaxation kits accompany the tutorials and you can custom compose your own kit or opt for one that is ready to order. Only ethical and fair trade products are employed in the kits and each kit comes in three different sizes. “People love do-it-yourself as long as they are guided. I propose the care methods and the products that are adapted to your needs,” she said. There are the pure organic essential oils from Les Huilettes, a French brand of natural cosmetics,

which are relaxing for the face. There are fair trade scarves from India, which she recommends to wear when travelling imbibed with a few drops of essential oils for a relaxing trip. Additional brands partnering with How to Spa include The Organic Pharmacy, World’s Best Travel Pillows and Skin & Tonic London. Starting in December a monthly, quarterly, bi-annual or annual subscription to the relaxation kits will be available. “It does not replace the treatment room (in a spa), but I can bring you this experience, I can bring you wellbeing,” she said. A printed-out tutorial booklet is free with each kit, which is placed in a free reusable tote bag handmade in France with upcycled materials, here fabric remnants for the bags, and so consequently each bag is unique. The kits are also an original gift to offer relaxing moments to family or friends.

www.howtospa.com contact@howtospa.com

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Shopping

Best of Beauty

Shimmer and Shine Shimmer this festive season with our selection of must-have body and beauty products. By Sandra Iskander

Add sparkle to your eyes with Huda Beauty’s new Nude Obsessions Eyeshadow Palette. Created to suit every skin tone and eye colour, there are three palettes to choose from, with each including mattes, shimmery and metallic shades. Available at Sephora

Shine bright like a diamond with Fenty Beauty’s Diamond Bomb AllOver Diamond Veil diamond-dusted highlighter for your face and body. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50 34 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Dab a touch of Laura Mercier’s Rose Gold Accent lip glacé from the Shades of Glacé Mini Lip Glacé Collection to give your lips a sexy shimmer. Available at Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

Cover yourself in Dior’s Gelée d’Or Shimmer Gel that leaves you smelling like the house’s famous J’adore perfume and shiny with a satin glow. Dior Boutique 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 89 57 96

Dare to stare with Christian Louboutin’s golden false lashes. Team with the brand’s creamy liquid eyeshadow in Lionissima to create quite the dramatic, yet festive, look. Available at Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Give your eyes an illuminating boost with Glamglow’s Brighteyes Illuminating AntiFatigue Eye Cream. Available at Sephora

This winter, visit La Vallée Village, home to more than 110 fashion and lifestyle boutiques with spectacular savings, and discover hundreds of gift ideas for a Christmas full of surprises. Open seven days a week, the Village is located just 40 minutes from Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks. The Village will be open from 12 pm to 8 pm on 1 January 2020*.

Something Extraordinary EveryDay™

*Closed on 25 December © La Vallée Village 2019

10/19

Shopping

Scented Buys

Chloé by You Melange your very own unique bouquet with Chloé. The French luxury house has created a new collection of perfumes, Atelier des Fleurs, inviting you to create your own signature scent by mixing two or three of the nine fragrances making up the collection. Each of the nine perfumes was created by a different nose and inspired by a flower that evokes a certain memory in each perfumer. Each perfume can of course be worn on its own, though the real magic is the layering process to help create your bespoke scent. - S.I. Chloé Boutique 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 04 03 30

Founded in 2007, Papillon Rouge delivers scented bouquets of unisex perfumes that all carry a name of a romantic butterfly. Meaning red butterfly in French, Papillon Rouge is an independent French house that creates its niche scents in Grasse in the South of France, and the result is a mystical collection of perfumes. The Jungle Queen captures the essence of the South Asian butterfly with sweet and floral notes of cardamom, iris and Tonka bean, while the L’Impolie fragrance draws inspiration from the butterfly of the same name that was discovered in 1758, embodying it with notes of yuzu, rose and ginger, creating a spicy yet fresh scent. Set in the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne in the French capital, the boutique is a glorious invitation to finding your niche scent. - S.I. Papillon Rouge Boutique 2 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 06 11 70 20 40 36 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Papullon Rouge © Nicolas Fernandez

The Butterfly Effect

Katerina wears On Aura Tout Vu corset and coat Oxbow leggings Ivana wears Zucca top and skirt Chaumet rings On Aura Tout Vu belt Caio wears Sandro pants Zilli jacket OneCulture top

38 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Aurore Donguy Make-Up Artist: Júnior Queirós Hair Stylist: Emrick Rongier Models: Katerina S and Ivana from Metropolitan and Caio C from M Management Photographer’s Assistant: Angel Lepenec Special thanks to Hôtel Victor Hugo Paris Kléber

A Fashion Force

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Yohji Yamamoto jumper Gilles Asquin mask

40 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Ivana wears Fendi skirt, boots and sunglasses Gilles Asquin corset Akillis cuff bracelet Katerina wears Gilles Asquin corset Guess skirt Fendi boots Gas Bijoux rings and cuff bracelet

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 41

Issey Miyake pants and jacket Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses Maliparmi top Yoox shoes Akillis bracelet 42â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Bono van Peursem playsuit Sandro sneakers Tasaki ring and earrings w w w.p w. p a r i s m a p. fr â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 43

Maliparmi coat Salvatore Ferragamo dress Bvlgari necklace and bracelets

44â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Messika masquerade mask Farhad Re top and pants Charles and Keith shoes

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories

clothing: men & Women

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th),

01.71.72.96.45. Metro: Pyramides

01.56.88.59.59. Metro: George V

Doré Doré - 66 rue de Rennes (6th),

Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.45.48.85.52. Metro: Sèvres Babylone

Metro: Madeleine

Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. Metro: Madeleine

Leica - 52 blvd Beaumarchais (11th),

Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Metro: Madeleine Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1 ), 01.44.50.34.19. st

01.43.55.24.36. Metro: Chemin Vert

Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.44.20.07.70. Metro: George V

Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Metro: Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.88.29. Metro: Saint-Paul Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. Metro: Trocadéro

Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Metro: George V

L’Artisan Parfumeur -167 blvd Saint-Germain

(6 ), 01.43.27.47.87. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Près th

L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th),

Metro: Concorde

Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.

Metro: Tuileries

01.49.27.09.09. Metro: Palais Royal

Metro: George V

01.53.57.35.40. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Metro: Rue du Bac

Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.44.71.31.73. Metro: Concorde

Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),

01.45.61.53.00. Metro: Gare de Lyon

Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel

W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st),

01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

children’s clothing & toys

78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11

Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann

(8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Metro: George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. Metro: Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. Metro: Rue du Bac

Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.42.60.63.64. Metro: Tuileries

Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),

01.53.71.15.40. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

fABrics - couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th),

01.43.27.88.42. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone

01.42.65.04.00. Metro: Concorde

01.53.30.73.13. Metro: Madeleine

Marquise de Laborde - 29 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.72.38.26.68. Metro: Pyramides

Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

home Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

01.58.18.63.30. Metro: Madeleine

Books & music

One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy,

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées

Hugo Boss - 15 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th),

Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1 ),

Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. Metro: Corvisart

eye WeAr

Icicle - 35 ave George V (8th), 01.43.59.15.17.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. Metro: Opéra

Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. Metro: Porte Maillot

Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

01.40.46.81.71. Metro: Pont Marie

01.53.93.22.50. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone

(9th), 01.42.82.50.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin

Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73.

La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th),

Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.43.25.96.11. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. Metro: Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66.

Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. Metro: Franklin Roosevelt

Metro: Madeleine

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. Metro: Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Metro: Concorde

Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.

Metro: Concorde

depArtment stores & shopping centres

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Metro: Madeleine

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Metro: Mabillon

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th),

Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th),

Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98.

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00.

Metro: Madeleine

Metro: Hôtel de Ville

Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9 ),

01.53.45.41.41. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot

Atelier Cologne | beauty spas & products 46 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

01.53.10.00.81. Metro: Mabillon

01.53.95.24.00. Metro: Charles Michels

01.42.82.34.56. Metro: Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

(7th), 01.49.54.01.70. Metro: Rue du Bac

Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. Metro: Madeleine

Justine Red | luggage and bags

shopping

Address Book

JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Metro: Opéra

Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Metro: Tuileries

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th),

Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00.

Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),

Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th),

Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th),

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Metro: LouvreRivoli

Metro: Opéra

Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st),

Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00.

01.53.57.52.00. Metro: George V 01.47.03.83.97. Metro: Tuileries

01.40.15.10.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

01.42.60.58.39 Metro: Concorde

01.42.60.37.77. Metro: Tuileries

Metro: Concorde

Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th),

Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st),

Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st),

Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20.

01.40.20.45.45. Metro: Concorde

01.42.36.33.00. Metro: Tuileries

01.42.61.58.16. Metro: Opéra

Metro: Opéra

Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9 ), 01.70.99.18.88. Metro: Opéra th

Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées

(8 ), 01.42.56.18.53. Metro: George V th

Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50.

Metro: Pyramides

Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20.

Metro: Opéra

Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st),

Metro: Opéra

Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. Metro: George V

lingerie

Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd),

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

01.57.40.94.05. Metro: Saint-Paul

01.42.61.79.54. Metro: Madeleine

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.

Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. Metro: Opéra

Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. Metro: Tuileries

Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th),

La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V

Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8 ),

Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

01.43.12.33.50. Metro: Concorde

01.42.89.89.88. Metro: George V

Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.

Metro: Opéra

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Metro: Madeleine Corthay - 1 rue Volnay (2nd), 01.42.61.09.89. Metro: Opéra

luggAge And BAgs

Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41.

01.53.43.03.70. Metro: Concorde

Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd),

shoes

Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Metro: Concorde

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. Metro: Madeleine

Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th),

L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th),

01.55.04.11.11. Metro: Opéra

Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. Metro: Opéra

01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V

01.55.31.74.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin

01.42.77.00.33. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissard

Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st),

01.40.98.55.55. Metro: Opéra

Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10.

multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),

(8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Metro: Madeleine

Metro: Bourse

Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64.

Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2 ), 01.42.86.60.60. Metro: Opera

Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.

Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15.

Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. Metro: Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68.

01.47.20.03.09. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04.

Metro: Tuileries

Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1 ) , 01.47.03.39.99. Metro: Concorde

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8 ),

J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),

Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone

Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26.

Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd),

Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34.

Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12.

01.55.35.03.60. Metro: Concorde

Metro: Mabillon

Metro: Opéra

Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th),

(2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. Metro: Opéra

Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), st

Metro: Madeleine

Metro: Mabillon

01.40.17.47.17. Metro: Concorde

01.42.61.57.53. Metro: Opéra

Metro: Pyramides

Metro: Saint-Paul

Metro: Saint-Sulpice

01.44.51.50.50. Metro: Concorde

01.56.89.15.70. Metro: George V

01.45.48.75.47. Metro: Rennes

Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st),

Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),

Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Metro: Concorde

01.40.13.93.93. Metro: Palais-Royal

01.43.16.00.16. Metro: Concorde

Chopard | Jewellery & watches

Audemars Piguet | Jewellery & watches w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 47

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

NORÉ

UÉP

RB HE ES

RUE D

AL DM AR EV UL BO

L ’A R C A

S DE

RUE D

ROYAL

T H U R IN

NORÉ

ES MA

Église de la Madeleine

•

Marella

• Zwilling E SÈZE

•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français •Chaumet

RUE TRONCHET

Dior

•

INES

• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite

INE

Omega•

APUC

DES C

RUE

Hackett •

Vendôme

EVA

Place

•

Tommy Hilfiger

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega

IG LI O N E

•Eres •Swarovski

RUE D

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate Spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

MADELEINE

• •• • Rinaldi • ★Marina

T H U R IN

LE VILLAGE

ES MA

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RINS

RUE DE

LE VILLA GE ROYA L

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

ATHU

SQUIE RUE PA

Oliver Grant

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

DES M

Burberry

Vuarnet

’A N J O

Crockett &Jones

★

U E CA ST

Janssens & Janssens

Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• • Graff R

Capel

RUE D

ULE

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

★

RUE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

U FAU

INE

BOUR

TOR

UÉP

D ’A S

ROQ

RUE

•

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

’

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

O AST

RUE

G SAI

INE

NT-HO

OÉT

SAINT-AUGUSTIN RU

Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

MANN

E C

ÉS

•

CONCORDE

La Perla

ESN

R D H A U SS EL

ÉR

RUE DE SURÈNE

48 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin

••

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

•

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yamamoto

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

B AM

ROQ

• Marina RU E DE DU RA

•• •

Lanvin

• Yohji

WEMPE

RUE

•Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan Valentino • • Leonard Paris ★ Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Djula • Jitrois • René Caovilla • Saint Laurent Chanel • • Boucheron Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier • • Hermès Alessi RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS Ch

SHOP STOP

• •

Place de la Concorde

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

ESN

RUE D’AGU ESSEA U

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

OÉT

MIR

IÈV

SHOP STOP

SNI

E ED

•Sotheby’s • Chopard • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

IRO

•

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8 Tel: +33(0)1 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

M DE

Caron

MIR

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

E ED

B O U LE VA

•

Pierre Cardin

CROCKETT & JONES

Rimowa• Nuun • RUE Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

A reference for 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with the 140th Anniversary Collection, a unique selection on styles crafted with the utmost attention to detail. The elegant, easy shoe Magee is available in the neat Dark Brown Antique Calf.

OÉT

L DE

CIER

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • AV

NUE

•

MIROMESNIL

• Sothys

Galeries •Bartoux

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

INES

APUC

DES C

ES CIN

RUE

PU ES

ÉR

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

• De Fursac

Acaba •

Marquise de Laborde

RUE RICHELIEU

■

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

•D id •G ier L

★

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

RUE DE RIVOLI

PALAIS ROYAL

N VE

P L’O

★ Aïzea Galerie Vivienne

Pie r

re Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS

RUE VIVIENNE

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

•

• •

•

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Agatha

’AB

by Terry Xavier Lust

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi ★ Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

50 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

ÉR

•

Galerie de Valois

29 rue de Richelieu - Paris (1st) Tel: +33 (0)1 72 38 26 68 shop.marquisedelaborde.com

MARQUISE DE LABORDE

’OP

Birkenstock

Galerie de Montpensier

Marquise de Laborde is a French brand of quality European made children’s fashion for ages 0–14 years old. Soft toys and other gift items complement this collection. The brand also specializes in custom made home linens since 1999. The Old World style shop is very charming with a chic and cosy atmosphere only 5 minutes walk from the Louvre Pyramid entrance.

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•

Printemps du Louvre

L DE

•Cotélac

FreyWille

•

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

•Aésop

SHOP STOP

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com

RUE DE LA PA IX

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

Carrousel du Louvre

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

RUE S A IN T -H

Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

LEI

Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s•

Manoush

AïZEA

TUILERIES

Place

ONORÉ

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

•

RUE S A IN T -H

Goyard •

•Dubail

Chopard

• Lipault

RU E CA ST IG LI ON

RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • • Balmain Kilian • Nous • Barrie Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni • Emporio Armani •David Morris •Omega

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

•

Marella

•Chanel Chanel

RU E CA MB ON

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

MADELEINE

Dior U P H O • D

Max&Moi•

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 / www.laulhere-france.com

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

•Pucci

Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

★ Laulhère

Gucci Chanel • • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

er t

■

• Oliver Grant

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla

LAULHÈRE

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

■

••

CONCORDE

Musée de l’Orangerie

•

Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Panerai Miu Miu

Burberry

•

u rie dot lle Ge pp

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

ph. alessandrobencini.com

www.angelacaputi.com 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat 75001 Paris (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi)

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 51

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

AVE

NUE

MA R

Kenzo

OT EN AV

• Swarovski • GrandOptical • Bulgari

• •

Lacoste • •V Omega• RGE ★ ENUE GEO •Hermès • AV Bvlgari De Grisogono • • Dubail • Zegna Ellie Saab U Stefano Ricci • EA Longchamp • C • • R Creed MA Christofle • RUE UE N E AV • PIERRE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy V E Audemars Arije • RON • •Chaumet Dubail • RG GEO Piguet Hublot• Beretta Nike/PSG• Cercle NUE E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • ★ Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE RON •Balenciaga Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U MOI By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto LLE A Wolford • RBEU Zimmermann •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges Maje • • Majestic 38 Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld • AVE • Thomas Harry • N UE M Giorgio Armani Pink Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior••• Ralph Lauren • Chloé • Gucci

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

IS 1 ER

ANÇO

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE FR

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

• Marionnaud Paris

Icicle

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer RUE

DE B

ERR

Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie

• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

• Cartier

Montblanc

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple

•

Armani Emporio

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

RUE BALZAC

C AR

•

• Milady • Etam

ERB

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

CEA

LLOT

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

RUE DE CHAI

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man and also women can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

ALILÉ

Publicis Drugstore• Dior •

ENU

A EDL

RUE G

IÉN E D’

FRI

Maison Baccarat

D’IÉ

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

AHO

■

EM AR CEA

SHOP STOP

BERETTA GALLERY

D’IÉ

AV EN U

ALILÉ

AC M

NUE AVE

RUE G Place des États-Unis

RUE

35 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 15 17 www.icicle.com

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

DOUX

In search of harmony between humans and nature, ICICLE offers a timeless elegance wardrobe composed of natural materials in a sober palette, designed with care for our environment. Discover our universe and collections in our first Parisian store.

O AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

荈搬 ⛓ 麤

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

N A T U R A L W AY

AVENUE KLÉBER

ICICLE

Arc de Triomphe

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT O

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

OÉT

•Chanel • Galeries Lafayette •Dior •

LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara

ELT

EJ EA NG OU N

1ER

UE F

KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

RAN

N AVE

KLIN

Zadig & Voltaire

Dammann • • Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or Lancel •

•

AVEN

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

52 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

COURS

38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com

NFÉRENCE

Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.

PORT DE LA CO

MAJESTIC 38

Jil Sander

•Adidas

ATIG

NON

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

BOU

MAT

HUR

INS

MAT

VIGN

AUR

ON TR E

DES

•

ARTI RUE

Exaltation

•

ES CR

D VI I

R U E ÈD O U AR

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

• • • IKKS

Rossignol

• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

E DA

Bally Hackett Omega

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

★ •

•Gant • •

Tommy Hilfiger

•

• Max&Moi

Golfino • •Loding

EL OU

NES

UCI

C AP

E-S

R-D

DES

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RUE

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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE OR

Opéra Garnier

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9 Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

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In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

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54 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

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• L’Occitane • Lacoste

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

UE D U CI Stella ★ Louis RUE DE B E L’A • Luna Etro • BBA Vuitton Camper YE • Repeat • Cashmere Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio• DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • Lejaby • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • Ecco Kenzo • • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops ★ Sabre • U FOUR Alain Mikli • • La Perla• D • ★TS Durance RUE Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE Repetto M.A.C.• • N • TRE VE Français Doré Doré • S QUA E Omega D E RU Berluti • RES V • É S • • RUE DE • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Saint Laurent Longines Camper • Wille • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • Tumi • Maje Eres• • • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon •Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES R Charmel V • Marché S É E Il Bisonte D • •

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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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4 rue des Quatre Vents, Paris 6th Tel : + 33( 0)1 44 07 37 64 www.sabre.fr

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Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles.

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181 boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 25 96 11 www.repeatcashmere.com

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REPEAT CASHMERE Affordable luxury and timeless fashionable styles in 100% Cashmere is what Repeat stands for. Founded in 1996 in Geneva Switzerland, Repeat is an international lifestyle brand specialized in fashionable knitwear. The Repeat collection focuses on timeless fashionable garments and accessories that can be mixed and matched in endless ways.

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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

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LE BHV MARAIS More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford ➞ • Marionnaud Paris Guerlain RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • Esteban Diptyque Musée Carnavalet • Pandora • Fragonard • ■ RUE DES FR Arche Repetto • • ANCS BOUR• • Ted Baker Mademoiselle • GEOIS • •Jeanne • ➞ • • Iro • Sandro Michael Essentiel • • • • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • • • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D ES • Cos Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • • El Ganso • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo Sandro• Moscot Etam • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •John Galliano Lacoste • •Ice Watch • Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Gucci • Crockett ★ •Maje Lagerfeld• Moncler • ROI DE SIC ILE DU & Jones RUE Chevignon• BHV Homme TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais RUE DE LA VERRERIE À l'Olivier RUE DE R • I L O Besides ★ IV R E RUE D RU E Kimchi DE S HA UD MIRON • Tourist Office RI ET TE S G N E OIS ★ FRANÇ RLEMA HOTEL DE VILLE ER UCEHPAER U R Pierre Boisset • N EL LE E U R Village Saint Paul ■ • Psyché ■ Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane RUE DE RUE

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16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com

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CROCKETT & JONES A reference for 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with the 140th Anniversary Collection, a unique selection on styles crafted with the utmost attention to detail. The elegant, easy shoe Magee is available in the neat Dark Brown Antique Calf.

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7 rue Saint-Martin - Paris (4th) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 77 23 68 www.besideskimchi.com

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BESIDES KIMCHI Located at 5 minutes from the Pompidou Centre or the Hotel de Ville, Besides Kimchi is a Parisian concept store specialised in Korean fashion and cosmetics. We offer a large selection of Korean designers and brands from "Chic" to "Street Wear", and a large choice of cosmetics and sheet masks.

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Discover the lost palace of Saint-Cloud on page 60 56 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

Pierre Riton, Jules Peyre et Jules Dieterle ,Vase à quatre lobes, détail, Porcelaine de Sèvres, 1854 , Paris, Mobilier national, inv. GML 888/1 © Mobilier national, Isabelle Bideau

arts&attractions

Exhibitions

Marie-Antoinette : Le hameau de la Reine, Pierre et Gilles, 2014 ©Pierre et Gilles; Bilbo arrive aux huttes des Elfes des radeaux, illustration du Hobbit [1937], Oxford, Bodleian Library, MS. Tolkien Drawings 29, © The Tolkien Estate Ltd 1937

Marie-Antoinette in Metamorphosis Marie-Antoinette, the ill-fated queen of France, has been depicted in art, film, fashion, advertisements and even dolls, becoming perhaps one of the most represented of historical figures. Martyr, heroine, fashion icon, she captured the imagination of generations. An exhibition entitled Marie-Antoinette Metamorphoses of an Image is being held in the Conciergerie, the former prison on the Ile de la Cité where the queen would spend the last few weeks of her life before being executed on October 16th, 1793. The show wends its way through the medieval building and brings together an extraordinary array of portraits, documents, jewellery, pieces of clothing, film excerpts and film costumes recounting the story of Marie-Antoinette but also her image through the centuries. The show also offers an insight into her final weeks in the prison, watched over by the guards and in the presence of other prisoners through portraits, engravings and paintings. The exhibition is being presented by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, France’s centre for historical monuments. - P.V. Showing through to January 26th, 9.30am to 6pm, until 8.30pm Wednesdays. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80 www.paris-conciergerie.fr

Taking a Trip with Tolkien The world of J.R.R. Tolkien is being played out in a grand exhibition being held at the BnF FrançoisMitterrand site, the Bibliothèque National de France, France’s national library. The vast show, entitled Tolkien, a Journey into Middle-earth, brings together some 300 exceptional objects and is conceived as a genuine journey into Middle-earth, the setting for the Oxford professor’s legendary worlds of The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings, his imaginary worlds that can be discovered and re-discovered through original manuscripts and drawings. The show has been organised in close collaboration with the Tolkien Estate and the Tolkien family and benefits from exceptional loans from the Bodleian Library at Oxford and the Marquette University libraries in the United States. - P.V. Showing through to February 16th Quai François-Mauriac (13th), 01 53 79 59 59 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 57

Kyosuke Tchinaï - Paysage de Seto - 92 x 73 cm

Impressionnist, Modern & Contemporary Art Modern Masters : Bonnard, Buﬀet, Chagall, Dufy, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck, etc. Contemporary Ar�sts : Paul Aïzpiri, Jean Fusaro, Jean-Pierre Cassigneul, Chen Jiang-Hong, Tom Christopher, Lorenzo Fernandez, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa 18, avenue Ma�gnon 75008 Paris M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest

Beyond Black

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

58 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

The Louvre is holding an exceptional exhibition devoted to the contemporary artist Pierre Soulages who turns 100 this month. Pierre Soulages, described as the painter of black and light, is a major figure of non-figurative painting who earned recognition at the outset of his career after World War II and who continues to paint today. This exhibition-tribute is a chronological journey through his works from 1946 to the present through a selective choice representing eight decades of his paintings. The show underscores his panel works in what he has referred to since 1979, beyond black, and enables the visitor to discover his recent, very large format works. From the beginning of his career he opted for total abstraction while calling into question the traditional givens of painting through his choice of material, like walnut stain and tar, and his tools, which resemble more closely those of a house painter. - P.V. From December 11th through to March 9th 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 53 17

Pierre Soulages Peinture, Mai 1953. New-York, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum © Archives Soulages © ADAGP, Paris 2019

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

arts&attractions

Exhibitions

_”La Belle et la Bête » de Jean Cocteau, 1946 . Verre, acrylique, pellicule. 140x121 cm © Patrick Rimoux; Florentine & Alexandre Lamarche-Ovize, Elisée, une géographie (Pyrénées), techniques mixtes, 80 x 90 cm © Collection particulière, Paris

Painting the Movies An intriguing exhibition of highly original works is being played out at the Galerie Minsky in which beautiful works of art fashioned from old film reels astound by their luminosity and transparency enhanced by glass plates. New technologies engineer, artist and photographer Patrick Rimoux is known today for his illuminations of cities and monuments throughout the world and for this new exhibition entitled A Frenchman in Hollywood, the artist is showcasing American cinema through works he created using old film reels, reels of some of the greatest Hollywood movies that starred, among others, Gene Kelly and Tim Burton. The artist amassed an exceptional collection of some 1000 reels from which he carefully selects frames which he then re-assembles, paints, scrapes and interlaces, turning them into large format works of art. - P.V. Showing through to January 31st 37 rue Vaneau (7th), 01 55 35 09 01

Drawing Nature Elisée Reclus, the renowned French geographer, writer and traveller, left behind in his written works a deeply original vision of the world at the end of the 19th century. More than a century after his death in 1905, Florentine and Alexandre Lamarche-Ovize, artists, painters, drawers, ceramic makers and sculptors have created a prolific body of work rooted in harmony and the Arts and Craft movement, which sought to reconcile art with craft, inspired by designer William Morris, a contemporary and friend of Elisée Reclus. Their colourful and aesthetic works draw the world as Reclus described it, filled with details, colours, superimpositions and minute descriptions of the natural world. Their works are on display in an exhibition entitled Elisée, a Biography, being held at the Drawing Lab, a private art centre devoted to drawing. Visitors to the exhibition enter into a world of absolute beauty and balance and find themselves surrounded by landscapes bursting with flowers, skies, mountains, streams and trees. - P.V. Showing through to January 9th 17 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01 73 62 11 17 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 59

arts&attractions

A Forgotten Palace Once upon a time there was the Palace of Saint-Cloud on the western edge of Paris, a palace that reached its apogee at the end of the reign of Napoleon III and before the fire that would destroy it in October of 1870. An exhibition being presented by the Musée des Avelines in Saint-Cloud in conjunction with the Mobilier National, France’s national furnishing collection, showcases the elegance and eclecticism in the rich decor of the palace and the taste of the Empress for the Louis XVI period. The show, entitled The Last Lights of the Palace of Saint Cloud, revolves around some 100 authentic objects and works from the palace that were saved as well as the photographs of Pierre-Ambroise Richebourg emanating from a rare album devoted to the Palace of Saint-Cloud during the Second Empire. - P.V. Showing through to February 23rd 60 rue Gounod, 92210 Saint-Cloud, 01 46 02 67 18

The Splendour of Ceramics An intriguing exhibition devoted to the ancient art and craft of ceramics is being held in the cultural venue of the high-end ready-to-wear fashion house Icicle’s boutique. The show presents the artworks of contemporary Japanese ceramic masters whose approach is similar to that of the original masters. Ceramic is born from earth, fashioned by the hand of man, ultimately emerges from fire and is one of the earliest craft materials used by man. Among the works on display are the bold and informal objects of Teppei Ono made for daily use, like his woodfired flower vase. The intriguing white porcelain pieces (porcelain is a type of ceramic) by Naotsugu Yoshida, also on show, are enhanced with tetsuyu, an iron glaze that contains iron oxide and imparts black tones onto his works. - P.V. Showing through to mid-January 35 ave George V (8th), 01 43 59 15 17 60 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

Pierre-Ambroise Richebourg (1810 – 1875) , Le grand salon ou salon blanc de l’appartement de l’Orangerie , Tirage photographique sur papier albuminé, vers 1868 , Saint-Cloud, musée des Avelines, inv. 2014.5 © Ville de Saint-Cloud – Musée des Avelines / Gilles Plagnol; Icicle Photo © Romain Laprade

Exhibitions

Where Paris Promotion

Salvador Dali, Gala & Beniamino Levi, dans les années 70. Archives Personnelles de M. Levi; Persistance de la Mémoire, Salvador Dali © IAR; Femme en flamme, Salvador Dali © IAR

A Discovery of Dalí

t was back in 1991 that a venue opened up in Montmartre showcasing a private collection of some 300 works, sculptures, engravings, objects and furnishings by Salvador Dalí offering a unique glimpse into the work and world of the Surrealist sculptor, designer, engraver and illustrator. Dalí Paris re-opened its doors to the public last April offering a new journey into the world of the artist and enabling the public to discover the art dealer and collector, Beniamino Levi, who assembled the collection, which remains the only permanent exhibition in France, devoted to Dalí, the master of Surrealism. Beniamino Levi, an eminent Italian gallery owner started putting the collection together in the 1970s. Upon returning to Milan after the Second World War, he frequented actors in the effervescent artistic scene, notably Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri and became friends with the art critic Franco Passoni with whom he opened the Galleria Levi in Milan. He first met Dalí in 1974 in his suite at the Meurice hotel where Dalí and his wife Gala resided during their Parisian sojourns. Levi would first purchase two paintings, the 1932 Egg on the Dish without the Dish and The Invisible Harp done in 1934, which he exhibited in his gallery in Milan. After additional encounters in Paris, New York and Dalí’s home in Cadaquès in Spain, the collector launched into a new challenge, editing the sculptures of Dalí and he would progressively acquire the rights to 29 images taken from the artist’s most celebrated paintings including the Persistence of Memory, the Temptation of Saint Anthony and The Burning Giraffe, giving him the possibility of having bronzes made from models conceived by the artist. The bronze sculptures

of these images were cast in Switzerland at the legendary Perseo Foundry, which casts the work of Alberto Giacometti and Fernando Botero. Today, Dalí Paris, which has been given a redesign by the architect and scenographer Adeline Rispal offers a meander through the artist’s works and allows the visitor to embark on a non-exhaustive journey into the artistic path taken by Dalí and revealing a not so well known segment of his work while putting the spotlight on his technique and creativity. The museum segways into a gallery and while the museum presents rare sculptures, the gallery offers these works in different sizes and patinas for collectors in limited editions. The venue also hosts exhibits devoted to contemporary artists and little known aspects of Dalí’s work in a dedicated gallery space.

Dalí Paris 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01 42 64 40 10

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Where Paris Promotion

A Moving Journey

he wonderful world of cinema can be discovered right in Paris at La Cinémathèque française, home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

Eight decades later the world of cinema that Langlois endeavoured to conserve lives on in a light-filled modern building designed by Frank O. Gehry in which the world of motion pictures is revealed through a museum, exhibitions, projections, a film library and bookshop. It offers a complete cinematic experience for film lovers and is a perfect place for neophytes to discover cinema of the world, of all ages and of all genres.

projection machines and cameras, accessories and costumes), as it does to films. La Cinémathèque’s Musée du Cinéma exhibits some 600 objects enabling visitors to journey over three centuries into the universe of animated images. Magic Lanterns, optical boxes as well as costumes worn by, among others, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo, are on hand as well as a host of extraordinary objects, notably the robot from Metropolis by Fritz Lang and the head of Mrs Bates in Psycho by Alfred Hitchcock. Temporary exhibitions devoted to major figures in film are regularly presented as well. And an intriguing exhibition entitled Vampires is on show from October 9th through to January 19th. The exhibition, a genuine cabinet of curiosities, celebrates, in splendour, the legendary figure of the vampire, an icon of a century, mysterious and sexy at the same time.

The show is peopled with artists and filmmakers haunted by the black shadow the vampire casts, enriched with hundreds of film extracts, the exhibition reveals the lasting impression imparted by the vampire throughout 100 years of popular culture from Murnau to Twilight, from Dreyer to True Blood. Some 40 films are projected each week at La Cinémathèque française in the establishment’s four movie theatres with programmes revolving around major directors, actors and technicians but also the young generation of filmmakers. A host of activities including conferences and master classes are also organised around the projection programmes. There is also an excellent restaurant serving homemade dishes using seasonal products.

51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

EXPOSITION 09.10.19 > 19.01.20

Visitors enter the Gehry building, which is built around a monumental hall that is thoroughly drenched by incoming light and outfitted with large bay windows and small balconies, and within will discover collections where over 40,000 films, 3000 costumes, 23,000 posters, 14,000 drawings and 2,300 objects are conserved. For conservation, restoration and enrichment are the missions of La Cinémathèque’s which lends as much importance to non-film objects (archives, books, 62 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

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EXHIBITION FROM 4 DECEMBER 2019 TO 9 MARCH 2020

arts&attractions Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23 M° Trocadéro

LA CONCIERGERIE a medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the revolution. Through to January 26th, Marie-Antoinette, Métamorphoses image an exhibition exploring the various representations of d’une image, the French queen through some 200 works in various mediums. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through to February 2nd, Le Grand Opéra, an exhibition that explores the opera house’s grandiose period in France in the 19th century. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra 64 W HE RE Pa r i s i D E C E M B r E 2019

PANTHEON an 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; apr-sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Photos iStock 2019 : Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77 M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

arts&attractions Passageways

GALERIE VIVIENNE

Panthéon

The picturesque passageways of Paris offer an offbeat promenade in the Parisian capital. Alternatively named “passage” or “galerie”, they are “covered” with glass roofs, which prompt the light to vary depending upon the weather, time of day and time of year. The passages were essentially constructed during two relatively brief time periods, the first from 1823 to 1828, and a second phase from 1839 to 1847. They reached their peak during the Restoration (1814-1830). Some 20 covered passageways remain today in Paris, architectural treasures of glass, steel and for some fabulous décor. Within, one can find diverse boutiques, restaurants and even a museum.

inaugurated in 1826, this passageway is strategically situated near the Bourse (the stock exchange), the Bank of France and the Palais royal and has a décor influenced by Pompeii and Herculaneum. it has two splendid caryatides, which decorate the rue des Petits-Champs entrance, and a spectacular mosaic by Faccina, the 19th century italian mosaic artist. 4 rue des Petits-Champs/5 rue de la Banque/6 rue Vivienne (2nd) M° Bourse

PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS

Photos. © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand

This passageway, which dates back to 1799, built outside of the peak in passageway construction, is one of the oldest of the city’s passageways and has been welcoming pedestrians for over two centuries now. it will snake you under cover from the Boulevard Montmartre to rue saint-Marc and along the way you’ll cross over the Galerie des Variétés, the Galeries Montmartre, Feydeau and saint-Marc. 10 rue St-Marc/11 blvd Montmartre (2nd) M° Richelieu-Drouot

PASSAGE JOUFFROY

GALERIE COLBERT

PASSAGE VERDEAU

This passageway, for which construction began in 1826, is worth a visit for its splendid architecture, which includes a rotunda and a spectacular glass cupola. This passageway, particularly its rotunda would inspire architects throughout Europe in the 19th century. 4 rue Vivienne/6 rue des Petits-Champs (2nd). M° Bourse

The high glass rooftop of this passageway makes it one of the most light-filled in the French capital. a prolongation of the Passages Jouffroy and Panoramas, it was opened in 1846. 6 rue de la Grange Batelière/31bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot

GALERIE DE LA MADELEINE

This passageway is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Paris with its resplendent double marble columns that have retained their mirrors, gilt trims, splendid ceilings and a fine black and white tiled marble floor. Beautifully restored in 1997, this passageway offers the visitor a journey into the Belle Epoque. 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau/Rue du Bouloi (1st). M° Louvre

This passageway coincides with the place of the same name and its church, La Madeleine. it was opened in 1845 and two superb caryatides by the French sculptor Klagman frame its main entrance. 9 Place de la Madeleine/30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th) M° Madeleine

GALERIE VERO-DODAT

Built in 1847, this passageway is one of the city’s younger passageways and is named for its architect M. Jouffroy, the son of the Marquis Jouffroy d’abbans. inside one finds the spectacular wax museum, the Musée Grévin, replete with its Hall of Mirrors and where French and international personalities await the visitor. 10-12 blvd Montmartre/9 rue de la Grande-Batelière (9th) M° Richelieu-Drouot w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 65

Address Book

arts&attractions

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr areas & marKets

PARIS

Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

Carré Rive Gauche This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

art galleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

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several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). Metro: Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-7pm. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. Metro: Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris DIGITAL MAP

and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and public holidays 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. Metro: Concorde

attractions Académie Équestre de Versailles Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), Metro: Père Lachaise

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. Mon-Fri 1:30pm-8pm, Sat, Sun 10am-10pm. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. Metro: Quai de la Gare

FlyView Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. Sun-Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri, Sat 11am-9pm. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.83.62.12.36. Metro: Opéra

Grande Arche

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. Metro: Iéna

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360° panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92800 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. Metro: La Défense Grande Arche

This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. Metro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée

Le Manoir de Paris

Opera Gallery

Catacombes de Paris

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of

Galerie Richard Orlinski

66 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. Metro: Porte Dorée

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), Metro: Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just

arts&attractions

Address Book

a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. 09.86.86.86.87. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”). Times and dates vary, call ahead.

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 40 min, 11am-9:20pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-9:40pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. Metro: Pont Neuf

Vedettes de Paris

Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-5:30pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16 century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. MonSun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.27.31.80. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly–Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château. th

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. Times and dates vary, call ahead. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

gardens Jardin des Tuileries

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-11pm, boats 25-30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. Metro: Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

day trips

and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), Metro: Odéon

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), Metro: Concorde

Château de Fontainebleau

Jardin du Luxembourg

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond, an orchard of old vintage fruit trees

Galerie Tamenaga | Art GAlleries

guided tours Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. Metro: Opéra

Paris Authentic This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 2 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. Metro: Tuileries

Retro Tour Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

museums & foundations Centre Georges Pompidou France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. Metro: Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed-Sun12pm7pm, Thur 12pm-9pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. Metro: Trocadéro

Dali Paris In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely

Paris Authentic | Guided tours w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 67

arts&attractions Address Book

devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. Metro: Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-9pm. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. Metro: Sablons

Institut Giacometti This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. TuesSun 10am-6pm. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. Metro: Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. Metro: Jussieu

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. Wed-Mon 12pm-7pm. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. Metro: Bercy

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz

Musée d’Orsay | MuseuMs & FoundAtions 68 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B R E 2019

MAD A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets 5:45pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. Metro: Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. Times and dates vary, call ahead.01.47.23.38.88. 34 ave de New York (16th), Metro: Iéna

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. Metro: Pont Neuf

Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. Metro: Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. Metro: Varenne

Musée Cognacq-Jay This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by

Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. Metro: Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. Metro: Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. Metro: Iéna

Musée en Herbe A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Open everyday 10am-7pm. 23 rue de l’Arbre Sec (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 11am-7pm. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. Metro: Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. Metro: Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. Metro: Miromesnil

Institut Giacometti | MuseuMs & FoundAtions

arts&attractions

Address Book

Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. Metro: Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and daily during school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. Metro: Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. Metro: Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 9pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. Metro: La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. Metro: Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. Metro: Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). Metro: Concorde

Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, Thurs until 9:45pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. Metro: Solférino

alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. Fri until 9pm, last tickets at 8:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Sun and holidays 10am-7pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. Metro: Iéna

Petit Palais

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tues-Sun 9:15am-7:30pm, Thurs until 10:30pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. Metro: Alma Marceau

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Fri (only for exhibitions) until 9pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Musée Picasso

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. Metro: Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. TueSun 10am-6:30pm, last tickets at 5:30pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. Metro: Varenne

Musée Yves Saint Laurent This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are

MAD | MuseuMs & FoundAtions

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. Metro: Porte de Pantin

practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-14:30pm/3pm-7:30pm, Sun12:30pm-3:45pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). Metro: Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. Metro: MontparnasseBienvenue

Musée de l’Orangerie | MuseuMs & FoundAtions w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 69

The Guide

dining

Italian Fare | Peruvian Cuisine | Christmas Treats | French Tapas | Fine Dining

Dine on colourful Peruvian fare at Coya (page 75)

70 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

dining

Restaurants

Italian Cravings Another month, another Italian restaurant to open up in the French capital, and this time it is Matilda opening its doors in the chic 8th arrondissement. Just off the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, this new table is covered in Art Deco touches with warm and inviting Italian flair, from the carpet to the chandeliers, taking you to a villa somewhere in Milan where the food is great and the style is forever. On the menu, bite into aged parmesan and creamy stracciatella cheese while you sip on Italian wine before making way for a feast of spaghetti with tangy and creamy pesto, grilled octopus served with fennel-flavoured mashed potato, and cod seasoned with thyme and capers. And for anyone who appreciates a good dessert, the tiramisu here is arguably the best in the city. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to midnight, this is a great address for whenever an Italian craving hits. - S.I. Matilda 28 rue Jean Mermoz (8th), 01 45 63 17 10

A New Daroco After the huge success of the original Daroco near the old French stock market, which opened in 2016, the same team has opened a second branch of this stylish Italian trattoria across the street from the Maison de la Radio in the 16th arrondissement in western Paris. With terrazzo floors, a diamond-shaped mirrored ceiling, and a huge blue fresco on the theme of water and vegetation by French artist Supakitsch, Daroco 16 has a dolce-vita atmosphere created by potted plants, sea-blue and grey velvet banquettes and chairs and sixties retro lighting fixtures. The menu runs to the same excellent Italian comfort dishes that have made the first Daroco such a hit, including arancini (deep-dried rice balls), mozzarella beignets, pasta with homemade beef ragout, ravioli stuffed with stracciatella, and a great selection of pizzas. They also do an excellent costolleta Milanese (breaded veal cutlet) and risotto with saffron. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2am, which makes it great for weekend dining at any time of day. – Alexandre Lobrano Daroco 16 3 Place Clément Ader (16th), 01 44 14 91 91

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dining

Christmas Treats

Bûche Bites By Sandra Iskander

La Bûche, the traditional Christmas cake in France gets a makeover every year by some of the greatest pastry chefs in the world, and this year is no exception. Bite into a round-up of our favourite Christmas treats.

Pastry chef Christophe Michalak has brought music to our ears this festive season with his violin bûche. Layers of praline cream and dark chocolate mousse come together for the perfect duet at the end of a Christmas feast. 8 rue du Vieux Colombier (6th), 01 45 49 44 90

72 W HE RE Pa r i s i D E C E M B E r 2019

Pastry chef François Perret spins us around with his chocolate creation for the Ritz. a hazelnut cake base topped with layers of Gianduja cream and dark chocolate sits delicately in a chocolate cylinder just waiting to be cracked. Orders to be made 48 hours in advance. individual servings will also be available at the hotel’s Bar Vendôme. 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 32 74

Mandarin Oriental, Paris’s pastry chef adrien Bozzolo worked hand-in-hand with interior designers Patrick Gilles and Dorothée Boissier and the delicious result is a chocolate cabin with an adorable collection of chocolate toys sitting on a chocolate and passion fruit cake. available at the Cake shop in large and individual servings. For the large bûche orders are to be made 48 hours in advance. 251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 74 00

in the shape of the hotel’s iconic room key, Le Bristol’s bûche is a delectable mix of vanilla, caramelised white chocolate and praline, all topped off with a chocolate Christmas ornament. Available at Café Antonia upon order. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 43 43 42

Another pastry chef embracing tradition is the Hôtel Plaza Athénée’s Angelo Musa. The iconic hotel’s bûche is a chocolate delight with notes of orange, lemon and lime, adding a citrusy zest to the creamy milk chocolate mousse. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 65 97

Dalloyau has built us an edible sleepy mountain town to make us feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Created with milk chocolate and filled with sweet layers of Gianduja chocolate, chocolate mousse and a spice sable cookie, these homes were made to crumble. 101 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 99 90 08

A celebratory cake never looked so good. The Peninsula’s bûche is a traditional gingerbread cake layered with an airy vanilla mousse and encased in a chocolate champagne box complete with edible champagne corks balancing on top. Orders to be made 48 hours in advance. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01 58 12 67 72

La Réserve Paris gives us a lesson in taste with its three “books” stacked up one on top of the other. The first holds chocolates to enjoy with your after dinner tea while the other two open up onto a gateau with notes of chocolate, black tea and citrus fruits. For orders simply call 01 58 36 60 50 This Christmas Lenôtre has followed a traditional path and has created an irresistible chocolate bûche with a heart of rich praline cream. 36 ave de la Motte-Picquet (7th), 01 45 55 71 25 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 73

dining

Restaurants

French Tapas In the heart of the charming Saint-Germain neighbourhood, under the arcades of the Marché Saint-Germain is where the new restaurant Mordu has opened its doors. Here chef Baptiste Trudel focuses on fresh produce, changing the tapas-style menu on a regular basis but could include fresh sweet tomatoes sprinkled with grated salted ricotta, baby potatoes with a dollop of herb cream, and grilled octopus, and for dessert a love it or hate it sweet corn sorbet on a bed of crumbled spiced biscuit. The menu does constantly evolve, however, it isn’t always vegetarian-friendly. – S.I. Mordu 2 rue Félibien (6th), 01 42 39 89 27

As part of their deep admiration for the Land of the Rising Sun, Parisians have developed a passion for Japanese food. This is why Paris now has one of the best Japanese restaurant scenes in the world outside of Japan. A perfect example of how good this kitchen has become in Paris is the charming Gyoza Bar, tucked in the Passage des Panoramas in the heart of town. The specialty here are gyozas, the feather light griddled Japanese dumplings, which are filled with either pork or vegetables. Juicy and delicious, these dumplings make a terrific on-the-go lunch or dinner since service here is brisk and they are served at a bar. Other dishes include miso soup, edamame and nitamago (marinated soft-boiled eggs). – A.L. Gyoza Bar 56 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01 44 82 00 62 74 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Japanese Dumplings

dining

Restaurants

Amen to Coya The popularity of Peruvian cuisine is on the rise in the French capital and with the opening of Coya, this cuisine is becoming even holier than before. Hidden in Beaupassage, in a former church, Coya is spread over two floors, with two large dining spaces and a bar, where you can also dine on the tapas-style dishes. Start your exotic dinner with a Pisco Sour and the house’s famous guacamole served with prawn crackers, before choosing from the generous menu that includes tacos, ceviche, marinated skewers and even salads including a corn salad that mixes crispy corn and jumbo corn tossed in with sweet onions, though make sure you leave room for the homemade sugar-dusted churros served with a creamy milk chocolate and dulce de leche sauce, you will not regret it. - S.I. Coya 83 rue du Bac (7th), 01 43 22 00 65

Enjoy wonderful winter holidays on the worlds most beautiful avenue

Lunch, Dinner & Cruise in Paris Our strengths Outdoor upper deck on all boats Meals prepared on board Panoramic view

Port de la Conférence - Pont de l’Alma, Rive Droite - 75008 Paris Tél. : +33 (0) 1 42 25 96 10 - Fax : +33 (0) 1 42 25 02 28 e-mail : info@bateaux-mouches.fr - Web : www.bateaux-mouches.fr w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 75

DINING

Restaurants Advertorial LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd Since 1995, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional and generous French fare using only seasonal products. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader1‘s choice 2017. 181x132 WHERE AVRIL_2019.qxp_Mise en page 25/10/2019 10:32 Page 1

Seafood a Parisian culture

438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.

L’Auberge Dab

Tel. 01 45 00 32 22

161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon to midnight Valet parking available

www.auberge-dab.com

Le Congrès Maillot

www.congres-maillot.com

Le Congrès Auteuil

Tel. 01 46 51 15 75

144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am to midnight Valet parking available

www.congres-auteuil.com

Sébillon

Tel. 01 46 24 71 31

20, av. Charles de Gaulle - 92200 Neuilly Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to midnight - Valet parking available

www.sebillon.com

L’Européen

Tel. 01 43 43 99 70

21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am

www.l-europeen.com

76 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Design by Agence PORTOFINO - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Tel. 01 45 74 17 24

80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available

MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32

BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27

Open daily ~ Valet service ~ Patios ~ Private rooms

New winter carte SIGNATURE MENU ALL INCLUSIVE 44€ Apéritif, starter, main course, dessert Wine and organic coffee Special menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

www.legrandbistro.fr

d o r r Paris

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

18 rue Blanche - Paris 9 +33 1 45 26 41 43

Open daily

LEVER DE RIDEAU MENU 41€ All inclusive Apéritif, starter, main course, dessert wine and organic coffee Special menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

www.lesdeuxtheatres.com

BistroDeuxTheatres d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris

Bistrodesdeuxtheatres d o r r Paris w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 77

dining

Restaurants

Le Quellec is Back After a reputation-building stint at the Hôtel Prince de Galles, where she won two Michelin stars, talented chef Stéphanie Le Quellec has gone out on her own with a stylish restaurant on the swanky Avenue Matignon. At La Scène par Stéphanie Le Quellec she cooks in an open kitchen that overlooks an intimate dining room with 45 seats and a chic contemporary décor. Le Quellec’s cooking is light, lucid and technically impeccable with a touch of well-reasoned fantasy as seen in dishes like poached langoustines with buckwheat and a quenelle of blanc-manger with the claw meat of the crustaceans, Scottish grouse with morels cooked with smoked tea, veal sweetbreads with roasted cauliflower and harissa, and a ganache of Criollo chocolate from Venezuela made with olive oil. With friendly professional service and a good wine list, this sleek new restaurant is as good for a business lunch as it is for a big night out for food lovers. – A.L. La Scène par Stéphanie Le Quellec 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01 42 65 05 61

Chef Marc Favier and his partner Aurélie Alary have created a charming two-speed address right in the heart of Paris near the old French stock exchange. On the ground floor of Marcore is an excellent contemporary French bistro, while upstairs houses a cosseting and more intimate gastronomic restaurant with a more ambitious menu. Both of them are excellent, which isn’t surprising given Favier’s pedigree, he was formerly sous-chef to Jean-François Piège, with whom he shares the same impeccable technical skills and a lyrical gastronomic imagination. The menus here change regularly, but highlights of a recent meal at Favier’s gastronomic table included crabmeat dressed with lemon, cucumber, and allspice with a gin sorbet, impeccably cooked veal sweetbreads with girolles mushrooms and pickled lemons, and wild duck with pumpkin and shavings of roasted chestnut. Service is charming, and there’s an excellent wine list, too. – A.L. Marcore 1 rue des Panoramas (2nd), 01 45 08 00 08

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Fine Dining at Marcore

Open Daily ~ Valet Service ~ Patios ~ Private Rooms

Moulin Vert Menu All inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif ~ Starter ~ Main course Dessert ~ Wine ~ Coffee

Special menus & DJ for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

www.aumoulinvert.com

AubergeduMoulinVert d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris

AubergeduMoulinVert d o r r Paris SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37

MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37

Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Private Rooms

New winter carte Largest oysters selection in Paris Best seafood platters Don’t forget to book your table for Christmas and New Year’s Eve !

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dining on the seine Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. Metro: Pont de Sully

food & wine Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), Metro: Rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Metro: Madeleine

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host

of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. Metro: La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Metro: Madeleine

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50. Metro: Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Daily L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Wen-Sun L&D, Tues L only. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Metro: Palais Royal

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Metro: Opéra

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Metro: Tuileries

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. Metro: Palais Royal

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Daily L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. Metro: Grands Boulevards

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Yachts de Paris | dining on the Seine 80 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

L’Ambroisie | haute CuiSine (4th)

dining

Address Book

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Metro: Concorde

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. Metro: Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. Daily B, L&D. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. Metro: Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Metro: Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro

(€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. Metro: Arts et Métiers

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-gerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. You might try a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the

balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Metro: Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. Metro: Jussieu

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light meals and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Marsan-Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Mon-Fri L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Metro: Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood

(€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. Metro: Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves

finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Metro: Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Metro: Maubert-Mutualité

Le Select - Brasserie (€€)

This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 . Metro: Vavin

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Metro: Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D,. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Metro: Saint-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. Metro: Rue du Bac

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

Bateaux Parisiens | dining on the Seine

La Méditerranée | Seafood (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81

dining

Address Book Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Metro: Bir-Hakeim

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€) The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, mushroom pasta and duck breast with cherry sauce. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French

(€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie

(€€€)

An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Daily, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Metro: Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€) This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The fish dishes are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Metro: George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€) The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Metro: SaintPhilippe-du-Roule

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€) The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily B, L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. Metro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. Metro: Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Wed-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Pavillon Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Daily D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Tues-Fri L&D,

Mon L only. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€) This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Metro: George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€) Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat L. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Metro: Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€) This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Around oPérA gArnier & PigALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) CoCo - Contemporary (€€€) This delightful restaurant in the Garnier Opera House serves delicious contemporary cuisine in a refined atmosphere. Starters include tuna tataki and sea bream tartar while good mains include filet of cod and a French-style veal chop served with mashed potatoes. And for dessert enjoy an Opéra pastry, thin sheets of chocolate filled with a coffee cream. Daily B, L & D. Palais Garnier, 1 Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86 80. Metro: Opéra

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€) This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. Metro: Bonne Nouvelle

Le Scribe - Gourmet (€€€) Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Metro: Opéra

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Les Ombres | Contemporary (7th) 82 W HE RE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2019

Ladurée Champs-Elysées | frenCh paStrieS (8th)

dining

Address Book Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Metro: Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Metro: Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. Metro: Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French

(€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented one-star Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Metro: Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)

An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. Metro: Gobelins

La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)

This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm, Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. Metro: Vavin

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the

best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Metro: Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily B, L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Metro: Montparnasse

Benkay - Japanese (€€€)

This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. Metro: Dupleix

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Metro: Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat D only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. Metro: Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. Metro: Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top

floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. Metro: Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-Mon, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Metro: Iéna

BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Metro: Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. Metro: Gambetta

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Wed-Sat. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

Shang Palace | ChineSe (16th)

La Tour d’Argent | ClaSSiC frenCh (5th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 83

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

entertainment

Cocktail hour at Terrasse Concorde (page 88)

84 W HE RE PA r I S I D E C E M B E r 2019

Cocktail Photo ÂŠ Francis Amiand

entertainment

Shows

Getting Funny with Fanny For the first time in Paris, Funny Girl is taking over the stage at the Théâtre Marigny. Directed and choreographed by Stephen Mear, the show brings to life the story of Fanny Brice, made famous by Barbra Streisand in the movie of the same name. Christina Bianco steps into the shoes of Fanny for the Parisian debut of the musical, and takes the audience to New York where she sings her way up to stardom, with a few twists and turns along the way in her personal life. The musical is performed in English with French surtitles and features all the famous songs including People. - S.I.

War Horse at the New-London Theatre Photo by Brinkhoff Mögenburg

Théâtre Marigny Carré Marigny (8th), 01 76 49 47 12

The War Horse The award-winning show, War Horse, has finally arrived in Paris. The epic tale, which tells the story of Albert and his horse Joey, is a heart-warming demonstration of pure love. Set during World War I, Albert and Joey are separated when Albert’s father sells Joey to the British Army. The story unfolds as the audience watches the lives Joey touches on his journey, and Albert’s quest in finding his horse again and bringing him back home. The dramatic musical sees 34 actors and singers on stage, with Joey coming alive thanks to the talents of the Handspring Puppet Company. War Horse is performed in English with French surtitles. - S.I. La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 85

entertainment Events

Ballet in the Park Le Parc, originally created for the Paris Opera Ballet in 1994, is stealing the Opéra Garnier stage from the 3rd to the 31st of December. The ballet, choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj to the beautiful music of Mozart, sees the dancers interpret the codes of love and the perpetual changes in feelings to the backdrop of elegant French-style gardens, transporting the audience to the Age of Enlightenment via the exquisite costumes worn by the dancers. You can book your tickets online (www.operadeparis.fr), directly at the opera house or by calling 08 92 89 90 90. - S.I.

Christmas in a Chateau

A magical Christmas awaits at the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. The baroque French chateau has transformed itself into a fairytale-like castle for the holidays with 170 Christmas trees set around the chateau and its French gardens with twinkling lights bringing the Christmas spirit to the estate, guiding guests to the 8-metre nativity scene. This is a magical way to discover the impressive chateau that was built in 1661, and to celebrate the holidays, with horse and carriage rides, free gifts and gingerbread cookies all part of the festivities. Open until the 5th of January.- S.I. Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, Maincy 77950, 01 64 14 41 90 86 W HE RE Pa r is I D E C E M B E R 2019

Le Parc Angelin Preljocaj-Ballet de l’Opéra national de Paris © Sébastien Mathé -OnP 2013-14 ; Noël à Vaux-le-Vicomte 2017 © Franklin Lecointre

Opéra Garnier Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01 71 25 24 23

entertainment Bars

Cocktails With a View Overlooking the stunning Place de la Concorde is the new Terrasse Concorde, an outdoor bar, heated of course, from where you can enjoy signature cocktails. Under the arcades of the Hôtel de Crillon, nestle in for a wonderful Parisian night made up of live music, courtesy of Les Ambassadrices, the resident female band that performs from 8pm, from Tuesday to Saturday night, and original cocktails created by Eric Sablonière, the new head barman. Try the Concorde, inspired by the location of the hotel, the drink mixes pisco with aquavit, pear and chocolate, while the Pretty in Pink cocktail mixes sparkly champagne with Porto. The bar is open daily from 3pm to midnight. - S.I. Terrasse Concorde Hôtel de Crillon 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 00

Cocktails from the Top Overlooking the city, from the heart of the Marais, Au Top is one of our favourite spots for drinks with friends. The rooftop bar and restaurant has a rotating menu of great cocktails including the Grey Goose Pornstar Martini. Vanilla-flavoured vodka, passion fruit and a shot of champagne make this exotic drink a great way to toast the City of Light. - S.I. Au Top 93 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 43 56 50 50 88 W HE RE Pa r is I D E C E M B E R 2019

entertainment

Clubs

Party at Roxie Art Déco never looked so inviting to party than at Roxie. Open until 3am every night from Tuesday to Saturday, Roxie is where Parisian socialites frequent for a night out of fun. The restaurant, while good, offering a menu of contemporary French cuisine, it does play second fiddle to the entertainment on offer. Live music, courtesy of Version Originale, brings the sounds of Aretha Franklin, Adele and Lenny Kravitz to the intimate stage, inviting diners to dance throughout the night. - S.I. Roxie 23 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 01 53 75 31 00 advertorial

A Wonderful World of Whisky Established in 1956, La Maison du Whisky is one of the most renowned French specialists in fine whisky and spirits. Our historic boutique first opened in 1968 at the 20 rue d’Anjou address in Paris. A magnificent shop just off the place de la Madeleine, the wooden shelves are mainly dedicated to malts with over 2,500 different labels. Guided by our knowledgeable advisors, connoisseurs as well as beginners can browse through Scottish or Japanese single malts, Irish single pot stills, American single barrels, craft distilleries and many others from around the world. Experts can also discover extremely old and rare bottlings for their collection. With the broadening of our selection to other spirits, the & Fine Spirits boutique was opened in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area of Paris. The three floors offer a selection of 1,500 bottles of whisky, cognac, calvados, armagnac, tequila, mezcal, cachaça, vodka, gin, liqueurs, grappa, vermouth, sake… La Maison du Whisky 20 rue d’Anjou, 75008 Paris & Fine Spirits 6 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris www.whisky.fr/boutiques w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 89

entertainment Cabarets

Moulin Rouge

CRAZY HORSE

LIDO

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

PARADIS LATIN

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Oiseau Paradis, is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

A call to awaken your senses...

Restaurant 8:30 pm - 12:15 am Cabaret 10 pm - 4 am Closed on sundays and mondays

90 W HE RE Pa r is I D E C E M B E R 2019

www.secretsquare.. 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light

orn in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 800 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY @ 7PM (NO SHOW ON DEC 25th) EXTRA SHOWS: DEC 29 th @ 6PM, DEC 30 th @ 8PM, DEC 31st @ 7PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 ) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98

Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

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Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. Metro: Bastille

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. Metro: Pyramides

Kléber Bar

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Metro: Concorde

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. Metro: Boissière

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Le Bristol Bar

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Metro: Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Metro: Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. Metro: Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. Metro: Concorde

Le Bar

Prescription Cocktail Club

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. Metro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Metro: Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. Metro: Victor Hugo

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. Metro: Pyramides

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. Metro: George V

Le Rubis

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. Metro: Bréguet-Sabin This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. Metro: Les Halles

casino Club Impérial

Located inside the Galerie Masséna with its own entrance, this private gaming club offers 20 gaming tables for playing Baccarat, Poker 21, Stud Poker, Ultimate Poker and Omaha Poker among others. There is a Franco-Asian bar and restaurant with a snacking menu on the premises. Open daily from 6pm to 5am. 23 ave Ivry (13th), 01.76.21.20.00. Metro: Porte de Choisy

jazz clubs

Ice Kube Paris

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Les Ambassadeurs

Moonshiner

Le Lucien Bar

Buddha-Bar | Bars & Wine Bars

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. Metro: Pont Neuf

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. Metro: Strasbourg Saint-Denis The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. Metro: La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. Metro: Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently

Harry’s New York Bar | Bars & Wine Bars

entertainment

Address Book

renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. Metro: Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened in 1975, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. TuesSat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. Metro: Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. Metro: Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. Metro: Ternes

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield

armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. Metro: Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. Metro: Rambuteau

Medellin

This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. Metro: Alma-Marceau

Pachamama

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. Metro: Bastille

Medellin | night CluBs

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. Metro: Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. Metro: George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. Metro: Sentier

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. Metro: Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. Metro: Palais Royal

maGical & opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. Metro: Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are Englishspeaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché SainteCatherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. Metro: Saint-Paul

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The Guide

services

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains

medical services

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

Paris districts

rental cars & scooters

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques. 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

hair salons

real estate agencies

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

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01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the

sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie. 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

ADVERTORIAL

L’IBIS ROUGE

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YOUR KEY TO

PARIS

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

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Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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Services

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

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◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

FREE INTERACTIVE

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THE LUXURY & FASHION DEPARTMENT STORE DESTINATION

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HAUSSMANN, 64, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS - Tél. +33 (0)1 42 82 50 00 LOUVRE, 99, RUE DE RIVOLI 75001 PARIS - TÉL. +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00

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My Paris

LEONARD CREPIAT

HEAD CONCIERGE AT LE MEURICE

Windo Skybar

Sainte-Chapelle

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? A river cruise on the Seine is a must do especially at night as it offers a proximity to the illuminated architectural monuments. Afterwards you could have dinner at the Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower and then have a drink all the way up on the 34th floor at Windo Skybar with a breathtaking view of Paris.

As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse has one of the most beautiful historically listed rooms, decorated with reproduction paintings of Versailles’s salons, it is an exceptional location, and of course the food is also great. Restaurant Helen is one of the best seafood restaurants that offers unsung fish like the scorpion fish, which comes from off the coast of Corsica. Restaurant La Truffière Paris has a vaulted room in the basement, which is quite unique, they also have a wine cellar that has 60,000 bottles with more than 4200 references. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris?

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Jardin des Plantes

The Arènes de Lutèce, built in the first century, is part of the history of the city, the Sainte-Chapelle built in the 13th century is a monument representing a part of the history of Paris created by Saint Louis, and the Eglise SaintGermain-des-Prés, one of the oldest churches in Paris. If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? Le Bon Marché built in 1838 is typical of Paris with its delicatessen and high-end clothing. It has 5 floors, a rich history, they even have a barber, it’s a very French, and Parisian, department store. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? Spend the day on the Ile Saint-Louis, one of the most romantic places in Paris, with only 2500 inhabitants and a central street, it is a magical place. That’s where most of the private mansions are located. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots. Jardin des Plantes, there are indoor and outdoor zoos, the Evolution Gallery

and the Musée Grévin, there is always something fun happening in this museum. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? Café Cravan in the 16th arrondissement, which has just opened. Here you can find all the cocktails possible and imaginable, and you can choose an accompanying meal from an elaborate menu. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? You surely will enjoy high tea at Le Meurice with pastries by the very talented pastry chef Cédric Grolet served in the restaurant Le Dalí. Brunch at Mama Shelter, where you can play table football or other games until 4pm.

My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Café Pouchkine 12pm: Lunch at Brasserie Lipp 3pm: Strolling around the Place des Vosges 9pm: Jazz music at the Jazz Club Etoile

where

Your Guide to the World

Restaurant le Meurise Alain Ducasse © Imad; View onto the Grand Galerie d’Evolution at the Jardin des Plantes © Paris Tourist Office - Photographe : Amélie Dupont; Sainte-Chapelle iStcokphoto 2019 © dennisvdw

Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse