WhereTraveler Paris — November 2019 by Where Paris

November PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The Living Heritage of France Comes Alive in Paris and Beyond Discover the Made in France creations that show off the French savoir-faire

Shows on Show Take in all the must-see exhibitions taking place around the city

The guide 20 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 58 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 68 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 19 Issue N o 310

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

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Dine inside the Eiffel Tower at the Jules Verne Cover Photo © Stephan Julliard Turn to page 60 for the delicious view

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

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Step into Stella McCartney’s All Together Now collection (page 23)

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OPEN EVERYDAY INCLUDING SUNDAY HAUSSMANN, 64 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS - Tél. +33(0)1 42 82 50 00

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Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM |

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Paris boasts an extraordinary number of museums, making it one of

WHERE PARIS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com www.parismap.fr PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

the top cultural destinations in the world for art lovers. This month we

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com

bring you the must-see shows taking place all around the city including

EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

at the Grand Palais, the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

Meanwhile, celebrating the French savoir-faire in everything from perfume-making to creating delicate crystal jewellery, our The Living Heritage of France Comes Alive in Paris and Beyond feature introduces you to upscale houses that design and create all their pieces in the

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko ADVERTISING  KEY ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon*

heart of France.

DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

For our readers who are looking to discover the Fashion Capital, on our Shopping pages you will find all the latest trends as well as the latest

OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREMAGAZINE.COM

boutiques to visit. Our Framing Accessories photo shoot showcases

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

the elegant must-have pieces for designer-loving gentlemen while our

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

beauty selection suggests the top 6 products you need this month.

MVP I EUROPE

MVP I EXECUTIVE

PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler

MVP I CREATIVE

And in our Dining section foodies will find the latest offerings from the culinary capital with tables to savour fine, French cuisine as well as contemporary fare showcasing the talents of the city’s chefs. And in our Entertainment section jazz, ballet and a bar with a magnificent

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT AND CEO William S. Morris IV

view are only some of the fun things taking place this month around Paris and on our pages.

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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com

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Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Novembre 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

November

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

A Taste of Paris ALL MONTH For an authentic meal while strolling through the Châtelet neighbourhood, make sure you stop at the Petit Bouillon Pharamond. The listed historical monument is one of Paris’s institutional brasseries where François Mitterrand, Hemingway and Oscar Wilde once dined, and it is where you can dine on traditional French fare including snails, foie gras and beef tartare with fries for under 20 euros. Open non-stop from 12pm to 12am. 24 rue de la Grande Truanderie (1st), 01 40 28 45 18 8 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

PARIS THIS MONTH

Banksy’s World ALL MONTH He is the artist without a face that everyone knows, and now Banksy’s world is being showcased at the Espace Lafayette Drouot. The World of Banksy, The Immersive Experience brings together 100 works of the street artist who creates pieces that are instantly recognisable with his signature humour. Satirical, Banksy’s street art is an intellectual conversation between politics and art, with the world unaware of when and where his next masterpiece will appear. Showing until the 31st of December, this exhibition is a fun and interesting look into the anonymous artist’s world. 44 rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), 01 82 83 28 55

Hats Off ALL MONTH

HBD DANDAN Bansky © Mehdi Guemache

Fashion your own hat at Courtois Paris. The high-end milliner organises hat-making ateliers, upon reservation, that are sure to delight hat-loving fashionistas looking for a unique accessory.

In Concert

8 rue de Babylone (7th), 09 83 51 92 72

22 NOVEMBER It has been 15 years since Dido has performed in France and this month the singer/songwriter will be performing live at La Seine Musicale. The one-night only event will see Dido sing songs from her fifth studio album, Still on my Mind. You can get your tickets at Fnac. Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Vintage Shopping

Sinner

ALL MONTH

THROUGH TO 25 NOVEMBER Take in the NTM That’s My People photo exhibition held at the recently opened hotel Sinner, before or after a drink at the bar. The show brings together backstage photos taken by Gaëlle Ghesquière of NTM, the French hip-hop band that is known for mixing electro music with rap.

Shop for pre-loved luxury items at the Collector Square pop-up on the very chic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Bags, watches and diamond rings are only some of the precious pieces you can find.

116 rue du Temple (3rd), 01 42 72 20 00

69 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th)

Trade Shows & Art Fairs This heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour is marking its 25th anniversary in Paris this year. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate are all on the agenda, and this year a new section devoted to pastry is being inaugurated. There are over 500 participants and the event is the largest gathering of cocaproducing countries in the world. Plenty of activities and workshops for young and old alike are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 7-10 PARIS PHOTO This prestigious photography show brings together 166 galleries and 31 publishers from France and abroad beneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais, exhibiting photographs, films and installation works. The show is open from 12pm until 8pm and until 7pm on the 10th. www.parisphoto.com Grand Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th)

NOVEMBER 7-11 SALON DE LA PHOTO This show is devoted to the latest evolutions in 10 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals and offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. Exhibitions, conferences and the awarding of prizes are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and closes at 6pm on the 11th. www.lesalondelaphoto.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 8-10 FOTOFEVER This art fair devoted to contemporary photography and the visual image brings together some 250 photographers and 100 French and international galleries and publishers showcasing photography, digital art and video. The show is geared towards collectors and is open from 11am to 8pm and closes at 6pm on the 10th. www.fotofeverartfair.com Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

NOVEMBER 8-10 MADE IN FRANCE This show brings together a host of brands whose products are made exclusively in France. The show brings together some 550 exhibitors and this year the East of France is being honoured. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.mifexpo.fr Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 13-17 FINE ARTS PARIS This show brings together exceptional works of drawings, paintings and sculpture from the 16th century to today, presented by leading galleries from France and abroad. This year archaeology and tapestries will be present at the show and the Italian street artist Andrea Ravo Mattoni will give a special performance on the 14th. The show is open from 12pm to 8pm, from 11am on the 16th, until 10pm on the 14th and from 11am until 7pm on the 17th. www.finearts-paris.com Carrousel du Louvre , 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

NOVEMBER 15-17 PORTES OUVERTES Some 87 artists in and around the neighbourhoods of Notre-Dame de Lorette, Montmartre and Barbès are opening up their studios to the public offering a visit into the creative world of artists, their techniques and works in progress. These neighbourhoods in the 18th and 9th arrondissements of Paris have traditionally been frequented by artists and are rich in studios, gallery-boutiques and venues. The studios are open from 11am to 8pm and from 6pm to 9pm on the 16th. www.anversauxabbesses.fr Welcome point at Atelier d’Orsel, 11 rue d’Orsel (18th)

Sinner © Nicolas Receveur

NOVEMBER 1-3 SALON DU CHOCOLAT

LA MARTINA PARIS 39 rue Saint Placide, VI Tél +33 (0)143 27 88 42

LA MARTINA SAINT-TROPEZ 22 Traverse du Marbrier Tél +33(0)4 94 43 72 20

LA MARTINA MEGEVE 34 quai du Prieuré (Place Saint-Paul) Tél +33 (0)4 50 54 11 92

LA MARTINA Polo Club SAINT-TROPEZ 1999 route du Bourrian - GASSIN Tél +33(0)4 94 43 72 20

Feature

The Living Heritage of France Comes Alive in PAris And Beyond By Patricia Valicenti

12 W HE RE Pa r i s i N O V E M B E r 2019

ine fragrances, sparkling crystal, superb leather goods, high jewellery, and even Parisian paper are just some of the arts, crafts and professions fashioned and played out in France, and even in Paris itself.

“Glass is a marvellous material,” the great glass and jewellery designer Réné Lalique would say. And today the name of Lalique evokes the sparkle of jewellery and the brilliance of crystal. As the jeweller’s passion for glass grew he sought to find an appropriate location in an area with a workforce qualified in the field. This led him to eastern France, to Alsace, a region with a strong and historic glassmaking tradition where he founded his glassworks in 1921 in the town of Wingen-sur-Moden and where they are still located to this day, the only Lalique manufacture in the world, and where the homeware collections, crystal jewellery and the special commissions are fashioned. Recent collections include the Flûte Enchantée (The Magic Flute) fine jewellery collection celebrating the National Opera of Paris, with themes revolving around Mozart’s last opera with its pieces centred on crystal cabochons. The high jewellery pieces and jewellery pieces by jeweller and gemmologist Brigitte Ermel are fashioned in her workshop on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris where no less than 15 jewellery craftsmen work with her as the pieces take shape. The house of Brigitte Ermel Paris was founded in 1992, and the jeweller, a trained gemmologist works with rare and exceptional stones, favouring colours that are intense. She uses stones that she hand picks herself as the centrepieces of her works, which draw inspiration from nature and its elements and talisman and their magic powers. Earrings in rubellite, diamonds and yellow gold and a matching cocktail ring in the same materials are among her creations. The designer also fashions pieces for men like a pair of cufflinks in diamonds and white gold and a matching tie clip. On another Parisian note, the Réunion des Musées NationauxGrand Palais in conjunction with the Ville de Paris (City of Paris) has brought out a handsome collection of stationary, Papeterie Ville de Paris, with Paris themes distributed in the museum boutiques of the Musées Nationaux and the boutique of the City of Paris. It is composed of an assortment of notebooks and exercise books in four sizes, note pads, To Do Lists, pencils, folders and attaché cases made by five manufactures in Paris and the greater Paris region with each house offering its specific skill. Printed and fashioned in the manufacture of PPA.èsPrint in Montreuil the paper collection is made from chlorine-free paper emanating from sustainably managed forests bearing the Imprim’Vert Label. Meanwhile, the line benefits from the exceptional know-how of the Parisian house of Créanog, a master art and craft house that has been distinguished

with the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label meaning a Living Heritage Company, a mark of recognition of the French state for French firms for the excellence of their tradition and industrial know-how. Heading south, it is in the luminous light of the French Riviera that the quintessentially French fragrances of the house of Fragonard have been fashioned for four generations. The laboratories and manufacture are located in the town of Grasse itself surrounded by the flowers that have supplied perfumemakers for centuries. The House of Fragonard was born in the heart of this historic perfume-making region in 1926, founded by Eugène Fuchs who wanted to pay tribute to the great French painter Jean-Honoré Fragonard. Today,

An emerald and tourmaline ring from the Jardin de Rêve (The Garden of Dreams) high jewellery collection from Brigitte Ermel (opposite page); A crystal necklace from Lalique’s Enchanted Flute Collection (top); The Attachant bag from Létrange (right)

w w w.p a r is m a p. fr 13

Feature

Fashioning bespoke shoes (top left) and custom-made shoes at Maison Corthay (top) Notebooks from the City of Paris stationary collection

his great granddaughters are at the helm of the company, the Costa sisters, and it remains one of the last family-owned perfume factories in Grasse. The house’s first fragrance Moment Volé (Stolen Moment) was brought out in 1929 with its carnation base and this year Pivoine (Peony) joins the repertoire of some 50 fragrances and eau de toilettes for men and women.

14 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

The House of Létrange produces resolutely modern leather handbags today but its roots go back to the 19th century when it was founded in Paris in 1838 by a talented saddle-maker named Auguste Lespiaut who would be succeeded by his son-in-law Armand Létrange who could count among his clients Jules Verne. Létrange luggage even went all the way to Antarctica with Commander Jean-Baptiste Charcot in 1908 who

Notebooks © Rmn GP/Ville de Paris

Ultimately luxurious custom-made shoes are on-hand at the Maison Corthay, which was established in 1990 by Pierre Corthay and who in 2008 received the distinction of Maître d’Art or master of his art from the French Ministry of Culture and today remains the only men’s bootmaker to bear it. While clients can come to the Paris shop for made-to-measure for fittings, the shoes are fashioned in the Maine-et-Loire region of France in the village of Beaupréau where a team of 20 craftsmen carefully make the shoes, bespoke and ready-to-wear, from the finest of leathers. Diverse patinas are the specialty of the house and the house often says of itself, “Colour, It’s Corthay”. The house’s emblematic and iconic models include a derby, a moccasin, the Chelsea boot and Corthay’s Casanova. In addition to the shoes for men, the house also fashions bags and belts in fine leathers.

The perfumer’s raw materials at Fragonard and the Pivoine fragrance from Fragonard

carried his equipment in Létrange luggage for his second polar expedition. After World War II the house expanded into textiles focusing on luxury shirts until 2007. In 2014 Sébastien Létrange, from the family’s seventh generation, set about bringing Létrange back to life. He joined forces with Mathias Jaquemet

who had previously worked at Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, naming him artistic director and the house is today once again producing a leather goods collection of fine bags fashioned in two manufactures in France, one near Vichy and the other near Besançon.

ADDRESS BOOK BRIGITTE ERMEL PARIS Available at Legacy 46 ave George V (8th), 01 40 69 60 35 Or by appointment at 01 58 62 56 56 FRAGONARD 5 rue Boudreau (1st), 01 40 06 10 10 LALIQUE 11 rue Royale (8th), 01 53 05 12 81 LETRANGE 332 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 45 08 43 64 MAISON CORTHAY 1 rue Volnay (2nd), 01 42 61 08 89 PAPETERIE VILLE DE PARIS Paris Rendez-Vous (the boutique of the City of Paris) 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), 01 42 76 43 43 and www.boutiquesdemusees.fr w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 15

Art Exhibitions

SHOWS on SHOW By Patricia Valicenti

Worlds unbound, precious paintings, Degasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on dance, the world view of Leonardo da Vinci, magical paintings from Picasso, atmospheric antiquity, an electric palette and fun and fabulous footwear are just some of the themes abounding in a host of exciting exhibitions underway in the French capital.

16 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Escarpin pour Juliette Récamier — 1795-1810, Paris, Musée des Arts Décoratifs © MAD Paris Photo : Hugues Dubois; Henri Rousseau, Deux lions à l’affût dans la jungle, 1909-1910, huile sur toile, 84,5 x 119,8 cm, Collection particulière. Photo : Archives de l’Hôtel des Ventes de Monte-Carlo; Léonard de Vinci, Études pour la tête de Léda, vers 1505-1506. Pierre noire, plume et encre brune. H. 19,8 ; L. 16,6 cm. Windsor Castle, The Royal Collection, Royal Library, 12516 Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2019

A delicate shoe worn in the late 18th and early 19th century by French socialite Juliette Récamier as shown at the Shoe exhibition (opposite page) Henri Rousseau’s Two Lions on the Prowl in the Jungle at the World of the Naives exhibition (top) Léonard de Vinci’s Études pour la tête de Léda (below)

n ethereal and dreamy exhibition, entitled From the Douanier Rousseau to Séraphine, the Marvellous World of the Naives, is unfolding at the Musée Maillol through to January 19th. More than 100 works by the Naive painters, also called Modern Primitives, are on show. These artists are often selftaught and lack formal training and created works featuring extreme detail and bright, saturated colours. One of the most well-known is the French artist Henri Rousseau called Le Douanier Rousseau whose fantastic jungle scenes and exotic luxuriant vegetation transport. Another characteristic of naive painting is the absence of perspective, which creates the illusion that the figures are floating like the cats and monkey in the portrait of Paul Léautaud by Ferdinand Desnos. The exhibition presents the works of Le Douanier Rousseau and Séraphine Louis as well as lesser-known naive artists, like Camille Bombois and René Rimbert. These works also shed light on a little-known segment of the history of art between the two wars.

of da Vinci’s artistic practices and pictorial technique. Tickets must be reserved in advance. Works from the Alana Collection, one of the most precious and secretive private collections of art of the Italian Renaissance in the world, is being presented at the Musée JacquemartAndré-Institut de France. Mirroring the museum’s exceptional collection of Italian art, the show, running through to January 20th, brings together 75 masterpieces by the great Italian masters including Fra Angelico, Uccello and Bellini. The show

One of the hottest shows in town is devoted to Leonardo da Vinci to mark the 500th anniversary of the death of the artist in France, the Louvre is holding a major retrospective devoted to his entire career as a painter showing through to February 24th. The exhibition revolves around the Louvre’s own collection of five paintings, the largest in the world, and its 22 drawings, and presents some 120 works including paintings, drawings, manuscripts and sculptures emanating from prestigious American and European collections. The show aims to illustrate how da Vinci placed the utmost importance on paintings and is the culmination of more than 10 years of work including new scientific examinations of the Louvre’s paintings allowing for a better understanding w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 17

Saint Catherine of Alexandria by Francesco Traini at the Alana Collection exhibition (left); Dancer with arms crossed by Degas at Musée d’Orsay (top)

framing, contrasts in lighting and movements and motion. The show, which is organised by the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée d’Orangerie along with the National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C., brings together dozens of his works including the most celebrated like the Harlequin, the Orchestra of the Opera and paintings depicting the ballet lessons, one of his favourite subjects.

marks a unique occasion for the visitor to see for the first time this ensemble of paintings, sculptures, and objets d’art, which has never been exhibited to the public before. The collection is the fruit of rigorous selection as well as a love of art of Alvaro Saieh and Ana Guzmán, whose combined first names form the name of the collection, which is conserved in the United States. The Paris Opera and Edgar Degas are intrinsically entwined and to mark the 350th anniversary of the Paris Opera, an exhibition entitled Degas at the Opera is being held at the Musée d’Orsay through to January 19th. Throughout his entire career from his debut in the 1860s to his final works after 1900, the focal point of his work would be on the Opera and everything within including the boxes, the foyer and dance studios, singers, musicians, dancers and audience members. The venue provided him with infinite possibilities for perspectives, for 18 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Between the summer of 1926 and the spring of 1930, Pablo Picasso created a vast and cohesive ensemble of paintings that the art critic Christian Zervos would name “magical paintings” starting in 1938. Picasso would experiment with different art forms in these works filled with strange figures, opening a new chapter in his creativity, probing into a deeper dimension already announcing what would become the power of Guernica. The Musée National Picasso Paris is showcasing these works through to February 23rd in a show entitled Magical Paintings, setting them within terms of the artist’s development and as well within the context of the Surrealism that was contemporary at the time and psychology and the interest some writers, like Zervos, had in the magical powers of art. Some of the works on display are as radical as anything he had done before including experimentation with materials and the undertaking of monumental sculptural ideas in paint. Meanwhile, an intriguing show is on at the Institut du Monde Arabe entitled Arabe AlUla. Marvel of Arabia inviting visitors to discover the wealth of AlUla, one of world’s leading archaeological regions, an oasis with a history that spans 7000 years and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Myriad civilisations and societies lived here ranging from the Neolithic peoples to the Nabatean civilisation, the Roman Empire and the Ottomans. The natural and human heritage of the region is the focus of the show, which is on through to January 19th, bringing together rare archaeological objects, digital displays and videos. The first

Francesco Traini, (Pise, documenté de 1321 à 1345), Sainte Catherine d’Alexandrie, vers 1330, Tempera et or sur bois, 143 x 57, 5 cm, Collection Alana, Newark, DE, États-Unis, Photo : © Allison Chipak; Edgar Degas (1834-1917), Danseuse, mi-corps, les bras croisés derrière la tête, Vers 1890 Huile sur toile Statens museum for Kunst Photo : © SMK Photo/Jakob Skou-Hanse

Art Exhibitions

GRECO (Domínikos Theotokópoulos), Saint Luc, 1605-1610, huile sur toile, Tolède, Cabildo Catedral Primada, Photo © Archives Alinari, Florence, Dist. RMNGrand Palais / Raffaello Bencini; Pablo Picasso, Buste de femme avec autoportrait, février 1929, Huile sur toile, 71 x 60.5 cm, Collection particulière, Courtesy McClain Gallery; Elephant Rock © Royal Commission for Al Ula 2018

Clockwise from top left: Saint Luke as portrayed by El Greco; A magical painting by Pablo Picasso; The spectacular Elephant Rock at AlUla

part of the show immerses visitors into the videos taken from above by Yann Arthus-Bertrand demonstrating the immensity of the landscapes, the deep green of the oasis, and the spectacular colours of the sands. The second part of the exhibition presents the results of archaeological digs by a Franco-Saudi team. On show at the Grand Palais is a retrospective devoted to El Greco, the first major exhibition in France of the works of the artist described as the first great painter of the Golden Age and the last great master of the Renaissance. Doménikos Theotokópoulos, known as El Greco, was born in Crete in 1541 and undertook his initial apprenticeship in the Byzantine tradition before refining his skills in Venice and Rome, yet it was in Spain that his art flourished. He would invent forms of his own, developed bold and innovative compositions and an electric palette. The show is running through to February 10th. A fun and fascinating show showcasing footwear is opening up on November 7th at the MAD, the museum devoted to the decorative arts. Entitled Marche et Démarche (Walk and the

Way One Walks), it focuses in the shoe, which is a daily essential by taking a look at how we have walked from the Middle Ages to the present in both Western and non-European cultures and how men, women and children have walked through time and their diverse cultures. Running through to February 23rd, the show brings together more than 500 works, including shoes, paintings, photographs, objects, films and ads emanating from public and private French and foreign collections, offering an intriguing insight into this piece of clothing that is basic but extraordinary. ADDRESS BOOK GRAND PALAISGALERIES NATIONALES 3 ave du General Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 INSTITUT DU MONDE ARABE 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard (5th), 01 40 51 38 38 MADMUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50 LOUVRE MUSEUM Rue du Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 50 50 MUSEE JACQUEMARTANDREINSTITUT DE FRANCE 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59 MUSEE MAILLOL 61 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 42 22 59 58 MUSEE D’ORSAY 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14 MUSEE NATIONAL PICASSO PARIS 5 rue de Thorigny (3rd), 01 85 56 00 36 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 19

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

New Boutiques | Autumn Accessories | For Him | For Her | Best of Beauty

Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48

20 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Photo ÂŠ Alex Fadel

Roger Dubuis watch Il Bisonte penholder Montblanc pen Lesca Lunetier sunglasses J.M. Weston shoes Le Mont Saint Michel scarf Cadre Roussin photo frame (Turn to page 28 for more from our Framing Accessories series)

SHOPPING

New Boutiques

Manolo Blahnik in Paris Palais Royal just got a little bit sexier thanks to the arrival of the new Manolo Blahnik boutique. The high-end house, famous for its gorgeous shoes, has finally opened its first boutique in the fashion capital, choosing the iconic Palais Royal as its chic address. Under the royal arcades, the boutique showcases its colourful collection of shoes, ranging from sexy stilettoes to elegant boots. This new address for the luxurious house also marks the first time the men’s collection is made available in France, which gentlemen can find on the first floor. - S.I. Manolo Blahnik Boutique 11-12 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01 40 26 10 78

Scent With Love Step back in time by stepping into D’Orsay’s recently inaugurated boutique where the perfume house’s founder, Alfred d’Orsay, and his soul mate, Marguerite Blessington, are celebrated. Founded in 1830, D’Orsay’s perfume selection of five unisex scents is delightful with names including Quelque chose dans l’air (Something in the Air). There are also five home scents available with equally romance-conjuring names such as 3.50am Comme la dernière fois (Like Last Time) and 9.30pm Sous les draps (Under the Sheets). Inspired by travels, soul mates and keeping in touch, the boutique is a reminder of a time when writing and sending love letters, with words enveloped in perfumes sent as a souvenir, were a way of putting emotions into words. The magical boutique of the French perfume house, Bureau Postal D’Orsay (D’Orsay Post Office), brings back that romance by displaying letterboxes where you can “send” your love notes, along with your personal scent. The boutique has stationery for shoppers to write their love letters on that they can then place in one of the numbered letterboxes before informing their intendeds in which box they can discover their old-fashioned letter. - S.I. Bureau Postal D’Orsay Boutique 44 rue du Bac (7th), 01 43 25 57 02 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 21

SHOPPING

Autumn Accessories

Fall in AUTUMN Add a little bit of sunshine to your autumn look By Sandra Iskander

2 1

6 1 - Zeus+Dione Available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 2 - Quay Australia x Chrissy Teigen Available at Citadium, 56 rue Caumartin (9th), 01 55 31 74 00 3 - Nomad Jewels Available at Mad Lords, 316 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 45 25 08 31 4 - Laura Vita Available at Salamander, 15 rue de Cléry (2nd), 01 44 94 88 00 5 - 1083 114 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01 71 27 56 78 6 - Parfois Forum Les Halles, Porte Berger (1st), 01 40 39 91 45 22 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

SHOPPING For Him

We All Live in a Yellow Submarine Yesterday is today’s fashion with Stella McCartney drawing inspiration from the movie Yellow Submarine, in which The Beatles starred, including of course the designer’s father, Paul McCartney. The collection, All Together Now, is a colourful mix of winter pieces for gentlemen who are not only fans of The Beatles but who are also looking to add a pop of colour to their style. Tailored jackets and coats feature a wonderful work of patches and pop-art portraits of the band members, while shirts and t-shirts are printed with colourful graphics that celebrate the essence of the band with messages of love, hope and a whole lot of nostalgia. - S.I. Stella McCartney Boutique 114-121 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01 47 03 03 80

A Shoe In Ready-to-wear brand Balibaris prides itself on offering fashionable gentlemen a collection of affordable pieces that easily mix and match, and that are easily dressed up or down. This season Balibaris has introduced the Malibu trainers, a staple in every man’s wardrobe. The trainers are available in smooth cognac-coloured leather, suede in a smoked tobacco hue and classic white leather. With sneakers becoming today’s go-to pair of shoes, the Malibu trainers are an ideal choice for smartening up any look. - S.I. Balibaris Boutique 117 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 44 78 17 78

Travelling in Style The bag specialist Sellerie Georges has created two models with specifically Porsche drivers in mind. Made in France, the Frédérique and Dominique bags are the perfect size to fit in the classic car’s trunk. The exceptional pieces are handmade and made with soft-as-butter leather with both models available in black and brown, and make for a luxurious travel item. - S.I. Sellerie Georges Boutique 8 rue Berthollet (5th), 09 83 24 08 09 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 23

SHOPPING For Her

The Opulence of Opal Harry Winston has brought out its Premier Hypnotic Opal Mosaic Automatic 36mm watch crafted in 18-carat white gold, a profusion of baguette-cut diamonds and vivid blue sapphires swirling against an opal background. It is a timepiece that celebrates Mr Winston’s passion for motion and colour in fine jewellery. The colour blue, so dominant in the watch notably on the dial, is a hallmark of the house as are the way in which the diamonds are transformed into three-dimensional jewellery sculptures. The sparkling blue and green background on the dial is crafted from iridescent opal, a gemstone whose colours vary depending upon the light. The watch, which has been brought out within the Harry Winston The Premier Collection has a power reserve of 72 hours and is outfitted with a strap in blue pearl alligator leather, which in turn is outfitted with an 18-carat white gold buckle set with 28 baguettecut diamonds. The timepiece has been brought out in a limited edition of eight watches. - P.V. Harry Winston Boutique 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 03 09

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest collection, Bionda, meaning Blondie in Italian, is a warm mixture of honey tones, bringing the autumnal warmth to your jewellery collection. Making up part of the Bionda collection is this eye-catching necklace designed with tortoiseshell and resin with a pearly finish, and with its geometric design, the necklace is quite the striking statement-making accessory. - S.I. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51 24 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Warm as Honey

35 avenue George V, Paris VIII e | +33 1 43 59 15 17 | boutique.georgev@icicle.fr www.icicle.com

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SHOPPING

Best of Beauty

Beauty

TOP UP The top 6 things you need in your vanity case this month By Sandra Iskander

Huda Beauty’s Matte Power Bullet lipstick in Anniversary for the perfect nude, matt finish. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Laura Mercier’s Flawless Lumière Radiance-Perfecting Foundation. With 30 shades to choose from there is the perfect foundation for everyone. And with the foundation capturing the light, you get great coverage with a healthy glow. Available at Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

Huda Beauty’s waterproof Life Liner eyeliner. One side is pencil, the other liquid, making any look easy to achieve. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50 26 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Roger&Gallet’s green tea hand cream to keep your hands soft and smooth. Roger&Gallet Boutique 195 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 10 68

Lierac’s Supra Radiance Detox Serum Radiance Booster to help smooth out wrinkles. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

Cosmydor’s C/4 face scrub to gently exfoliate your skin and leave it feeling cleansed and smooth. Available at Nous 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 33 18 02

FINE SOCK MAKER SINCE 1819

Framing Accessories Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Carine Loeillet

Omega watch Tom Ford glasses Montblanc pen and cufflinks Manolo Blahnik shoes Cadre Roussin photo frame

28 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

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Caval sneakers John Dalia sunglasses Louis Vuitton keyring wallet Cadre Roussin photo frame

30 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Rolex watch Il Bisonte document holder Lesca Lunetier sunglatbvvsses Christian Louboutin shoes Maisons du Monde photo frame

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Vacheron Constantin watch John Dalia sunglasses InĂ¨s de Parcevaux scarf

32 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Il Bisonte belt Tumi backpack Cadre Roussin photo frame

Hublot watch Christian Louboutin sneakers Maison Corthay card holder Selima Optique sunglasses Cadre Roussin photo frame

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Longines watch Maison Corthay shoes Selima Optique sunglasses Montblanc wallet Maisons du Monde photo frame

34 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Longines watch Camille Fournet bag Montblanc sunglasses Cadre Roussin photo frame w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Doré Doré - 66 rue de Rennes (6th), 01.45.48.85.52. M ° Sèvres Babylone Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica - 52 blvd Beaumarchais (11th), 01.43.55.24.36. M° Chemin Vert Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois

(4th), 01.42.71.88.29. M° Saint-Paul Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V L’Artisan Parfumeur -167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. M° Opéra Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),

01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20.

M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M°Madeleine Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.34.19. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Icicle - 35 ave George V (8th), 01.43.59.15.17. M° George V Hugo Boss - 15 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.57.35.40. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th), 01.43.27.88.42. M° Sèvres - Babylone Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.43.25.96.11. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Marella | CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN 36 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. M° Porte Maillot Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. M° Corvisart One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin

EYE WEAR GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries

FABRICS: COUTURE Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.

M° Concorde Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.53.10.00.81. M° Mabillon Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. M° Madeleine

Hugo Boss | CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN

SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.86.60.60. M° Opera Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal

Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43.

M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. M° Sèvres - Babylone Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34. M° Mabillon Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V

Ecco | SHOES

Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.97. M° Tuileries

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.60.58.39 M° Concorde

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.43.03.70. M° Concorde Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01.57.40.94.05. M° Saint-Paul

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.

M° Opéra

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Corthay - 1 rue Volnay (2nd), 01.42.61.09.89. M° Opéra Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64. M° Pyramides Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68. M° Saint-Paul J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Boucheron | JEWELLERY & WATCHES w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 37

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

NORÉ

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

RB HE ES

RUE D

AL DM AR EV UL BO

L ’A R C A

RUE D

ROYAL

Vuarnet

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

T H U R IN

NORÉ

ES MA

LE VILLA GE ROYA L

Église de la Madeleine

•

Marella

• Zwilling E SÈZE

•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français Chaumet •

RUE TRONCHET

Dior

•

INES

• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite

INE

Omega•

APUC

DES C

RUE

Hackett •

Vendôme

EVA

Place

•

Tommy Hilfiger

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega

IG LI O N E

•Eres •Swarovski

RUE D

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate Spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

T H U R IN

LE VILLAGE

ES MA

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RINS

•

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

ATHU

SQUIE RUE PA

•

Burberry

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

DES M

Crockett &Jones

U E CA ST

’A N J O

Janssens & Janssens

Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• • Graff R

Capel

RUE D

ULE

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

•

RUE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

U FAU

INE

BOUR

TOR

UÉP

D ’A S

ROQ

RUE

•

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

’

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

O AST

RUE

G SAI

INE

NT-HO

OÉT

ÉS

Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

MANN

CÉR

RUE DE SURÈNE

CONCORDE

La Perla

R D H A U SS EL

• •

38 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin

••

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

•

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yamamoto

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

M CA

ROQ

• Marina RU E DE DU RA

•• •

Lanvin

• Yohji

WEMPE

•Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan Valentino • • Leonard Paris • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Djula • Jitrois René Caovilla • • Saint Laurent Chanel • • Boucheron Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier • • Hermès Alessi RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS Ch

SHOP STOP

OÉT

RUE D’AGU ESSEA U

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

Place de la Concorde

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

ESN

RUE

SHOP STOP

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

ESN

B O U LE VA

MIR

IÈV

E ED

•Sotheby’s • Chopard • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •

ESN

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

•

26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 / www.capelstore.fr

MIR

E ED

Caron

MIR

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

E ED

Pierre Cardin

•

With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.

Rimowa• Nuun • RUE Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

CAPEL

OÉT

L DE

CIER

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • AV

NUE

•

MIROMESNIL

• Sothys

Galeries •Bartoux

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

MA R UE

R MA

Kenzo

OT EN AV

• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • GrandOptical • Bulgari

•

• •

Lacoste • •Hermès Omega• • AVE Bvlgari De Grisogono • • Dubail • Zegna Ellie Saab U A Stefano Ricci • E Longchamp • C • • R Creed MA Christofle • RUE UE N E AV • PIERRE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy V E G Audemars Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • R GEO Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto OILL A E Wolford • RBEU Zimmermann •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges Majestic 38 Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld • AVE • Thomas Harry • N UE M Giorgio Armani Pink Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren •• Chloé • Gucci

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

DU B

OCCA

DOR

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FRAN Ç

OIS 1 ER

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

GE NUE

• Marionnaud Paris

ORG

Icicle •

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer RUE

DE B

ERR

Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie

• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple

•

Armani Emporio

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

•

RUE BALZAC

ERB

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

CEA

• Milady • Etam CEA

LLOT EN

NUE

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

AVE

BERETTA GALLERY

RUE DE CHAI

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALILÉ

’IÉ UE D

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE G

AVE

A EDL

Maison Baccarat

FRI

■

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AHO

NUE

AVE

SHOP STOP

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

D’IÉ

EM AR CEA

AC M

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

AV EN U

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

M NUE

NUE AVE

RUE G

RUE

35 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 15 17 www.icicle.com

NUE

AVE

DOUX

In search of harmony between humans and nature, ICICLE offers a timeless elegance wardrobe composed of natural materials in a sober palette, designed with care for our environment. Discover our universe and collections in our first Parisian store.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

荈搬 ⛓ 麤

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

N A T U R A L W AY

AVENUE KLÉBER

ICICLE

Arc de Triomphe

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

OÉT

•Chanel • Galeries Lafayette •Dior •

LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara

ELT

EJ EA

ALBERT

NG OU JO N

1ER KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

AVE

NUE

FRA

Dammann • • Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel

•

AVEN

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D. IN NKL

Zadig & Voltaire

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

ATIG

NON

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

COURS

18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 / www.jlcopticien.com

NFÉRENCE

In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Cartier, Dita, Thom Browne, Mikyta, Eyevan, Chanel, JLC Paris, Gucci and more...

PORT DE LA CO

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

Jil Sander

•Adidas

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 39

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

INES

APUC

DES C

ES CIN

RUE

PU ES

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

ÉR

• De Fursac

•

Birkenstock

Acaba •

•D

RUE RICHELIEU

ier

PALAIS ROYAL

■

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

Galerie Vivienne

Pie

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS

RUE VIVIENNE

•

E NU

É ’OP

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RUE DE RIVOLI

’OP

•

• •

•

• •

•

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RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Agatha

’AB

by Terry Xavier Lust

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

40 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

L DE

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

RUE DE RIVOLI

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Cotélac

•

Printemps du Louvre

Opéra Garnier

•

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

FreyWille

•

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Aésop

SHOP STOP

RUE DE LA PA IX

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

Carrousel du Louvre

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

Place

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

RUE S A IN T -H

Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

LEI

Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s•

Manoush

AïZEA

TUILERIES

•

ONORÉ

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • • Balmain Kilian • Nous • Barrie Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni • Emporio Armani •David Morris •Omega

RUE S A IN T -H

Goyard •

• Lipault

Chopard

•Dubail

RU E CA ST IG LI ON

•

Marella

•Chanel Chanel

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

• UE D

RU E CA MB ON

Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

MADELEINE

Dior U P H O

Max&Moi•

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 / www.laulhere-france.com

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

•Pucci

Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

•

Lu do ab t rie lle Ge pp

■

• Oliver Grant

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

LAULHÈRE

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

■

••

CONCORDE

Musée de l’Orangerie

•

Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Panerai Miu Miu

Burberry

•

•G

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

Aïzea

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

•

Guerlain •

BOU

HUR

LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

INS

OY EM

VIGN

AUR

ON TR E RU

•

ARTI RUE

Exaltation

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

• • • IKKS

Rossignol

Bally Hackett Omega

EL OU

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UCI

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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Dunhill Poiray • Guerin N H C O Corthay U B Y Cartier • ED AM RU • OLNE Piaget • • Christofle • Diesel EC V RU Hugo Boss E Maître Parfumeur • IX •Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo et Gantier A IWC • P Dinh Van • • DE LA ••Fred Alexander McQueen • Van Cleef • •Goralska Cartier E Emporio Armani & Arpels R U • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo • •Glasshütte Bvlgari • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Goyard Akillis MP • S Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA • BO • Heschung PYRAMIDES RU R ET • Jovoy • Dodo • HÉ Missoni RÈ •Christian Dior SE • •Frank Namani Ecco •Clergerie EVA

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

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TIN

T-R

PY ES ED RU

CH RO T-

SA E

FreyWille •

-H

NT OR

LET UIL 9J U2

• Astier de Villatte

•Maison Kitsuné

ED RU

DVF•

Sarah Lavoine •

-H

’AL

Penhaligon’s • Fragonard•

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

-H

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•Gant • •

Tommy Hilfiger

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

• J.M. Weston

• Max&Moi

• Sephora

•

ES CR IB

•

Golfino • •Loding

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

•

Etam

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

-G INT

INS

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

Église de la Madeleine

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Opéra Garnier

CAUM

RUE

MADELEINE

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

RUE BOUDREA U

GOD

OT D

RUE

Sabre • Paraboot•

HUR

MAT

DES

U EA

SHOP STOP

RUE

MAT

DES

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE

RU E JO UB ER

RUE

Galeries Lafayette Homme

’A EL

HAVRE-CAUMARTIN

P R O V EN

ADOR

SABRE

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

MOG

Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût

Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles. 17 rue Vignon – Paris 8th Tel : + 33( 0)1 40 07 96 63 www.sabre.fr

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

RUE MOG ADOR

Galeries du Diamant •

Redline •

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 41

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

E AU V

RUE

GAU

LTA I

CHE

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Institut de France

CHE

GAU

A PA R

IVE

RUE

BON

RÉ R

NEU

SAIN

CAR

Poltrona Frau

VER

DES

RUE

•

Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle•

RUE

Sarah Lavoine •

Kujten • Gérard • Darel

LIL

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DE B

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181 boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 25 96 11 www.repeatcashmere.com

ED EL ’UN

RÉ R

DU B

REPEAT CASHMERE Affordable luxury and timeless fashionable styles in 100% Cashmere is what Repeat stands for. Founded in 1996 in Geneva Switzerland, Repeat is an international lifestyle brand specialized in fashionable knitwear. The Repeat collection focuses on timeless fashionable garments and accessories that can be mixed and matched in endless ways.

CAR RUE

RUE

DE B

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

•Silvera

•

ULE

Poiray • Liu JoGant VA R DS • AI • • NT-GERM AIN Chaumet

•

RU E MA ZAR INE

GON

DRA

NES

REN

RUE SERVANDONI

RUE FÉROU

RU E BO NA PA RT E

Église Saint-Sulpice

T-P

Jardins du Luxembourg

L AC

IDE

SAINT-PLACIDE

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE SEINE

RUE DE TOURNON

RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

RUE MAD AME

RUE

RUE DE TOURNON

RUE DES CANETTES

RUE BON APAR TE

IDI

E-M

I ID E-M CH ER E

S PA IL ARD RA

RUE PRI NCE SSE

ENN

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

BOULEV

AIN

• La Martina

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE

S PA IL ARD RA

42 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

BOULEV

• Guerlain • Wolford

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

UE D U CI Stella • Louis RUE DE B E L’A • Luna Etro • BBA Vuitton Camper YE • Repeat • Cashmere Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio• DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • • Lejaby LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • Ecco Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops • • U FOUR Alain Mikli • • Sabre La Perla• D • Durance RUE Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE •TS M.A.C.• •Repetto • E VEN R T A Français U Doré Doré • ES Q Omega RUE D S E Berluti • VR • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Saint Laurent Longines Camper • • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • Tumi • Maje Eres• • • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • •

DOT-DROPS®

EJ AC

R TE

RUE

Karl Lagerfeld

RUE BON A PA

Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

•

SHOP STOP

S PA IL ARD RA

66 rue de Rennes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 85 52 www.doredore1819.fr

BOULEV

DORÉ DORÉ Since 1819, Doré Doré has been crafting highquality socks for men, women and children. Throughout the years, Doré Doré has made a name for itself as a high-end sock brand that still uses traditional techniques and processes. Each pair of socks is hand-finished to ensure the best possible quality. Doré Doré’s socks are made out of the finest natural yarns including Egyptian cotton, Merino wool, cashmere and silk.

• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •

DES

RUE DU BAC B O U LE VA RD Victorinox

•

RU E DE SEI NE

TS-P

• Cassina JLC Opticien

SAIN

•

ÉRES

SHOP STOP

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

A IR E M IN E

CALV

COM

S DU

RU E

PF AM RK NT A

TEMP

LE DU

RUE

VIEIL

• • Momoni Louis Quatorze Nice • •

TEMP

RUE

EL LE R U E D EB

YM E

RUE

F IL L E DES

RU E CH AR LO

RU E DE PI CA

RD IE

AR EL LI RU E DE CA FF

TO NG E RU E DE SA IN

Balibaris

LE DU

Merci • OUX UX CH Ami • SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• FROISSART

RUE CHA RLO T

CH AR LO T

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

•

• Hugo Boss Perús • • APC

U PO

RUE DU TEMPLE

Centre Pompidou

Magnanni •

Mi-Mai •

RUE D

APC

RU E DE LA

Jack Gomme • A I N T S RU

-CL

•

Wooyoungmi

Musée National Picasso

PE RL E RU E DU PA

• Wolford

RC RO YA L

RUE SA

IN T -G IL

LES

RUE PAY ENN E

RUE

Fred P Le C erry reus et

RUE SAINT-PAUL

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER

RUE PAVEE

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE DE LOBAU

RUE DE TURENNE

V IG N É RUE SÉ

LHE

PONT MARIE

Camper Swatch

MAC

RUE DU TEMPLE

Place des Vosges

VI GN É RU E SÉ

VIEIL

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford • Marionnaud Paris Guerlain RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • Esteban Diptyque Musée Carnavalet • Pandora • Fragonard • ■ RUE DES FR Arche Repetto • • ANCS BOUR• • Ted Baker Mademoiselle • GEOIS • •Jeanne ••• Iro • Sandro Michael • • Essentiel • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Sixtine • • • Lancel • Marie RUE J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA DES BLA NCS MAN UX • • • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D ES • Cos Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • El Ganso • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo • Sandro• Moscot Etam • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •John Galliano Lacoste • •Ice Watch • Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Gucci • Crockett • • •Maje ILE Moncler • & Jones Lagerfeld• RUE DU ROI DE SIC Chevignon BHV Homme E IN T- AN TO • RU E SA IN RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury • OLI IV R E Sentou D E Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RU • • IVOLI RUE DE R ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul ■ • Psyché ■ Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane MA

18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com

•

• Kitsune • Soeur Bonton•

RUE

PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.

Nicolaï

Maison

White Bird•

SHOP STOP

FI LS

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse grenouille

• Oska • • French Trotters

• Things Vanessa •Mr • Bonastre • Bruno • Zapa

RU E DE S 4

ENN

52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

UR E T E D

LE BHV MARAIS More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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Le Slip Français

Camper Briston • E•P O IT O U RUE

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JLC Opticien

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16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com

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Liquides• E N O Bellerose • RMA

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The Broken Arm

CROCKETT & JONES A reference for 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with the 140th Anniversary Collection, a unique selection on styles crafted with the utmost attention to detail. The elegant, easy shoe Magee is available in the neat Dark Brown Antique Calf.

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The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

An iconic piece from the House of Lacloche (page 47) 44 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Broche formée d’un Epouvantail, en or, turquoise, rubis, saphirs, émeraudes, diamants. Collection privée. © Deweggis

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Renoma, A Return A highly intriguing exhibition event is unfolding inside Sacré revolving around the photographs and videos of Maurice Renoma, fashion designer, photographer and scenographer. His works line the entrance hallway, restaurant gallery, bar, concert hall and enclosed smoking space of this white walled venue offering up a new concept, a gallery club. The sensual, fun and fashion photographs emerge from Renoma’s most emblematic theme and bring to mind his exhibitions from 20 years ago in the trendiest spots in the French capital, Les Bains, the Queen and the Man Ray. A focal point is his Last Supper photograph of stars replete with Andy Warhol, Lou Reed and Iggy Pop. Here in Sacré the artistic world of Renoma joins forces with a Parisian nightspot offering a cultural rendezvous for all. The nightclub, which is private, is open to the public for the duration of the exhibition. - P.V.

Renoma © Maurice Renoma; Piet Mondrian – Bois près d’Oele – 1908, Huile sur toile – 128 x 158 cm – © Kunstmuseum Den Haag

Showing through to November 30th Venue open from 6pm to 12am 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 01 45 08 15 65

Myriad Mondrians The captivating works of Piet Mondrian are the object of an exhibition at the Musée Marmottan Monet entitled Figurative Mondrian bringing together nearly 70 of his works all regarded as masterpieces. Nearly half of the works have never been seen in Paris before and the show offers the ultimate opportunity to see his Mill in the Sunlight, which will never travel again because of its fragility. Salomon Slijper, a major collector of his works amassed a unique ensemble of the Dutch master’s paintings and drawings from his figurative period and the works on show, through an exceptional loan from the Kunstmuseum in The Hague, emanate from his collection, which he left to the museum. The exhibition presents Mondrian’s landscapes often limited to a few themes, windmills, farms, flowers and portraits, followed by a section juxtaposing his figurative works with the abstract ones and winding up with a self-portrait and depictions of flowers. - P.V. Showing through to January 26th 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01 44 96 50 33 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 45

Kyosuke Tchinai - Erable, parure d’automne - 130 x 97 cm

Impressionnist, Modern & Contemporary Art Modern Masters : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck Contemporary Artists : Paul Aïzpiri, Jean Fusaro, Jean-Pierre Cassigneul, Chen JiangHong, Tom Christopher, Lorenzo Fernandez, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa 18, avenue Matignon 75008 Paris M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

46 WH E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 19

They are one of the most distinctive, graceful and highly specialised orders of mammals, mammals that are swimming through the seas and at times rivers. They include the blue whale, the highly intelligent, gregarious and communicative dolphins, the narwhals with their mysterious tusks and the humpback whales who sing. The Cetacea comprise nearly eighty living species and the Aquarium Tropical in the Palais de la Porte Dorée is devoting an exhibition to these fascinating animals entitled Baleinopolis, baleine being the French word for whale. The show brings together objects, videos, sound and interactive displays taking the visitor into an exceptional world that is often inaccessible. The exhibition, illustrated with the research and commentaries of renowned scientists and exceptional photographs, explores how these mammals are organised into societies, delves into their communities, their common culture and winds up with a section devoted to ways of protecting the seas, their habitat. The show focuses on four emblematic species of Cetacea, dolphins, humpback whales, sperm whales and killer whales. - P.V. Showing through to June 8th 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01 53 59 58 60

Photo © Fabrice Guerin

The Secret Society of Whales and Dolphins

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

A Time for Trees

Francis Hallé-Sophira Japonica Jardin Fondation Cartier; Bracelet en or, émail, rubis gravés, fabriqué en 1938 par Lucien Girard pour Jacques Lacloche. Collection privée. Photo Benjamin Chelly

A pivotal exhibition devoted to some of the oldest inhabitants of our planet, trees, is being held at the Fondation Cartier for Contemporary Art, which has brought together a community of artists, botanists and philosophers to showcase the latest scientific research concerning trees through art works, installations and dialogues. Entitled We the Trees, the show intertwines the reflections of artists and researchers while exploring ecological questions and the relationship between man and nature. The show brings together a host of works in various mediums, drawings, paintings, photographs, films and installations, by artists from around the world, including representatives of indigenous communities. On show are the highly detailed plates of the French botanist Francis Hallé along with the luxuriant landscape paintings of tropical worlds by Brazilian artist Luiz Zerbini. The unique garden of the Fondation Cartier offers a natural prolongation of the exhibition outdoors. - P.V. Showing through to January 5th 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01 42 18 56 50

The Lasting Legacy of Lacloche An exhibition devoted to the Maison Lacloche, once one of the French capital’s celebrated jewellery houses, is underway at the L’Ecole, School of Jewelry Arts, which is supported by Van Cleef & Arpels. The house of Lacloche was established on Rue de la Paix in 1901 and was active from the Belle Epoque to the 1960s. Lacloche Frères and later Jacques Lacloche created jewellery for royalty notably Queen Victoria of Spain, Edward VII of England, the kings of Greece and Siam as well as for aristocratic figures like the Duchess of Windsor and Hollywood stars including Grace Kelly. This marks the first time that an exhibition has been dedicated to Lacloche and the show brings together jewellery, clocks, both large and small, and vanity cases, the house’s specialty while illustrating various trends like Egyptomania and a penchant for the Far East. - P.V. Showing through to December 20th 31 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 01 70 70 38 40 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 47

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Into the Mysteries of the Middle Ages The Musée de Cluny, the national museum devoted to the Middle Ages, is presenting an exhibition revolving around etchings by Jean d’Ypres, a major artist of the end of the 15th century. Jean d’Ypres would sketch the preparatory drawings for the famous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which are conserved in the Cluny, and the etchings, tapestries and stained glass based on his drawings are among the masterpieces of the last decades of the Middle Ages. A number of engravings based on originals by Jean d’Ypres were discovered glued to the inside of miniature chests, which were made of light weight yet solid beech wood, covered in leather, adorned with iron and outfitted with locks whose mechanism remained a secret. The show, entitled Mysterious Chests, Etchings in the Days of The Lady and the Unicorn, brings together some 100 works including some 30 of the miniature chests, engravings, tapestries, stained glass and objects. - P.V. Showing through to January 6th 28 rue du Sommerard (5th), 01 53 73 78 00

The Enchanted Forest An exhibition evoking the fascination, fear and enchantment provoked by the forest is underway at the Musée Zadkine. Featuring works by Picasso, Derain, Dubuffet and Gauguin, the show brings together 100 works in myriad mediums by some 40 artists and sheds light on the living materials in the sculptures of Ossip Zadkine and their organic link to the forest. Entitled the Rêveur de la Fôret (The Dreamer of the Forest), the show offers a journey into this refuge, alive, wild and sacred that is the forest, this forest that has escaped domestication by humans and which came before them and remains. The show’s pathway is broken down into three segments, The Edge-Genesis, The Sacred Woods and the Sleeping Woods and is peppered with a number of masterpieces including Zadkine’s Vendanges, Picasso’s Bust of a Woman and Séraphine’s highly colourful and imaginative Tree of Paradise. - P.V. Showing through to February 23rd 100bis rue d’Assas (6th), 01 55 42 77 20 48 WH E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Les habitants de Recanati partent en Judée et Nazareth mesurer les fondations de la Santa Casa, coffret Vers 1510 Xylographie coloriée sur papier vergé Coffret H. 14 x l. 23 x P. 36 cm Musée de Cluny, Cl. 23877 © RMN-Grand Palais (musée de Cluny, musée national du Moyen Âge) / Stéphane Maréchalle; Ariane Michel (née en 1973), Les Yeux ronds, vidéo en, couleur, 2006, (projection, monumentale). Collection, Jean Arp (1886-1966) de l’artiste © Ariane Michel

Exhibitions

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Inv. 83.9.1. Nicolas BERTIN (1668-1736), Moïse et les filles de Jéthro, Huile sur bois, vers 1704. © Ville de Versailles, Musée Lambinet; Georges Clemenceau, Woodrow Wilson et Lloyd George après la signature du traité de Versailles, Musée de la Grande Guerre, Meaux

Exhibitions

A Hidden Treasure A box of gold and jasper, a miniature in ivory by François Boucher, and a tiara by Lalique are just a few of the 50 splendid art works on display in the Espace Richaud emanating from the rich collections of the Musée Lambinet. Entitled Hidden Treasures of the Musée Lambinet, the show offers a journey into the art world from the 17th century to the beginning of the 20th century. Many of the works, ranging from furnishings, to paintings, drawings and sculptures have rarely been seen by the public with some of them being shown for the very first time. Works by Rembrandt, Signac and David d’Angers are on display alongside an 18th century harp, a clock in Meissen porcelain and an 18th century fan depicting Versailles. - P.V. Showing through to November 17th 78 blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 97 28 58 Wednesdays to Sundays, 12pm until 7pm

From War to Peace While the Armistice of 11 November brought the fighting to a close on the western front in World War I, peace, hopefully a lasting peace, would be the ensuing work of diplomats and politicians. It is this pivotal period in history from the armistice to the signature of the Treaty of Versailles on June 28th, 1919 that is explored in an exhibition entitled Dans les Coulisses de la Paix (Behind the Scenes of Peace) being held at the Musée de la Grande Guerre, a museum devoted to World War I. The show brings together some 130 objects including the inkwell and pen given to Georges Clemenceau to sign the treaty and fashioned by the jewellery house of Vever, the pea jacket worn by Field Marshall Foch as well as a selection of photographs, documents and archives from the period. - P.V. Showing through to December 8th Rue Lazare Ponticelli, 77100 Meaux, 01 60 32 14 18 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 49

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Passageways

Panthéon

Galerie Vivienne

The picturesque passageways of Paris offer an offbeat promenade in the Parisian capital. Alternatively named “passage” or “galerie”, they are “covered” with glass roofs, which prompt the light to vary depending upon the weather, time of day and time of year. The passages were essentially constructed during two relatively brief time periods, the first from 1823 to 1828, and a second phase from 1839 to 1847. They reached their peak during the Restoration (1814-1830). Some 20 covered passageways remain today in Paris, architectural treasures of glass, steel and some fabulous décor. Within, one can find diverse boutiques, restaurants and even a museum.

GALERIE COLBERT This passageway, for which construction began in 1826, is worth a visit for its splendid architecture, which includes a rotunda and a spectacular glass cupola. This passageway, particularly its rotunda would inspire architects throughout Europe in the 19th century. 4 rue Vivienne/6 rue des Petits-Champs (2nd). M° Bourse

GALERIE DE LA MADELEINE

Inaugurated in 1826, this passageway is strategically situated near the Bourse (the stock exchange), the Bank of France and the Palais Royal and has a décor influenced by Pompeii and Herculaneum. It has two splendid caryatides, which decorate the Rue des Petits-Champs entrance, and a spectacular mosaic by Faccina, the 19th century Italian mosaic artist. 4 rue des Petits-Champs/5 rue de la Banque/6 rue Vivienne (2nd). M° Bourse

50 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

PASSAGE DU BOURG-L’ABBE Built in 1828 as a long covered promenade to avoid bad weather and heavy traffic, this passageway was restored and today its beautiful frescoes and friezes can be appreciated along with the splendid mirrors that adorn the tympanums. 120 rue Saint-Denis/3 rue de Palestro (2nd). M° Réaumur-Sébastopol

PASSAGE DU CAIRE This passageway, which opened in 1799, owes its name, which means Cairo in French, to the decorations on its splendid facade, three representations of the Egyptian goddess Hathor. 2 Place du Caire/16 rue du Caire/239 rue Saint-Denis (2nd). M° Sentier

Photos. © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand

GALERIE VIVIENNE

This passageway coincides with the place of the same name and its church, La Madeleine. It was opened in 1845 and two superb caryatides by the French sculptor Klagman frame its main entrance. 9 Place de la Madeleine/30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th). M° Madeleine

GALERIE VERO-DODAT This passageway is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Paris with its resplendent double marble columns that have retained their mirrors, gilt trims, splendid ceilings and a fine black and white tiled marble floor. Beautifully restored in 1997, this passageway offers the visitor a journey into the Belle Epoque. 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau/Rue du Bouloi (1st). M° Louvre

Galerie Vérot-Dodat

PASSAGE CHOISEUL Built circa 1825, this passageway with its main thoroughfare measuring 190 meters in length is one of the longest in Paris. Its history is intimately linked with the theatre as it neighbours two of the most celebrated in the French capital, the Opéra Comique and the Bouffes Parisiens, the theatre of Jacques Offenbach. 40 rue des Petits Champs/23 rue Saint Augustin (2nd). M° Quatre-Septembre

PASSAGE DES PRINCES Originally called the Passage Mirès when

it opened in 1860, this passageway was restructured and rebuilt between 1992 and 1994, although its fine cupola dating from 1930 remains. 5 blvd des Italiens/97 rue de Richelieu (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot

Passage Jouffroy

PASSAGE VERDEAU The high glass rooftop of this passageway makes it one of the most light-filled in the French capital. A prolongation of the Passages Jouffroy and Panoramas, it was opened in 1846. 6 rue de la Grange Batelière/31bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot

PASSAGE JOUFFROY

PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS

Passage des Panoramas

This passageway, which dates back to 1799, built outside of the peak in passageway construction, is one of the oldest of the city’s passageways and has been welcoming pedestrians for over two centuries now. It will snake you under cover from the Boulevard Montmartre to Rue Saint-Marc and along the way you’ll cross over the Galerie des Variétés, the Galeries Montmartre, Feydeau and Saint-Marc. 10 rue St-Marc/11 blvd Montmartre (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot

Built in 1847, this passageway is one of the city’s younger passageways and is named for its architect M. Jouffroy, the son of the Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans. Inside one finds the spectacular wax museum, the Musée Grévin, replete with its Hall of Mirrors and where French and international personalities await the visitor. 10-12 blvd Montmartre/9 rue de la Grande-Batelière (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. Through to November 24th, an exhibition in honour of the structure’s 130th birthday retraces the construction of the monument. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Through to January 26th, Marie-Antoinette, Métamorphoses image an exhibition exploring the various representations of d’une image, the French queen through some 200 works in various mediums. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra 52 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 19

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Photos iStock 2019 : Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

@ChristopheTaniere

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

THE MOST SPECTACULAR INDOOR EQUESTRIAN SHOW

Come and discover a unique equestrian show, combining traditional CSI5* and CSI2* show jumping events with the speed class, the Longines Speed Challenge, the record setting Masters Power, and the precision of the Longines Grand Prix of Paris, all in an unforgettable and festive atmosphere! At the heart of these events will be the 5th edition of the Riders Masters Cup between the title holder #RIDERSEUROPE and the #RIDERSUSA.

tastings, concept stores and many activities will be on offer for young and old.

Events every day from 9 AM Premium and Carré Or seats are available for an enhanced experience

Not to mention the famous Longines Masters evenings in Paris, which continue on into after-parties with concerts by the hottest DJs of the moment.

Info & a detailed program are available at www.longinesmasters.com

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 5TH  SUNDAY, DECEMBER 8TH PARC DES EXPOSITIONS DE PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE

©JLCarli/Alea

s one of the most prestigious equestrian events in the world, the Longines Masters of Paris welcomes every year the best horses and riders in the world. The Parisian stage opens the Longines Masters series, at the Parc des Expositions, Paris Nord Villepinte from Thursday the 5th, to Sunday the 8th of December 2019.

©JLCarli/Alea

Longines Masters of Paris

Whether you’re a passionate fan, a novice or curious about the world of show jumping, the Longines Masters of Paris will bring surprising experiences on and off the track. The Prestige Village is a real meeting place between art, culture and gastronomy offerings. During the 4 days, exhibitions,

©CBricot/Alea

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS

PARIS

Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr

Carré Rive Gauche This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Richard Orlinski This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Opera Gallery Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe 54 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Catacombes de Paris The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

Le Manoir de Paris The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions,

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

Château de Versailles

Jardin du Luxembourg

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

Château et Domaine de Chantilly North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château. This unique estate with its 17 century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Batobus

Giverny

Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

Vedettes de Paris Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Paris City Vision

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare SaintLazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

Jardin des Tuileries This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Galerie Richard Orlinski | ART GALLERIES

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Open Tour Paris

Paris Authentic

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

GUIDED TOURS

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Philharmonie de Paris | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 55

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

Dali Paris In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Institut Giacometti This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and

Dali Paris | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS 56 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

MAD

Musée Cognacq-Jay

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.

Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna

Musée en Herbe A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes

Musée Cognacq-Jay | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée du Louvre

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

Musée de l’Orangerie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

Musée d’Orsay

Musée de la Magie

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie.

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 6:30pm, last tickets at 5:45pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

La Cinémathèque Française | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS

Musée Yves Saint Laurent This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Musée Picasso | MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 57

The Guide

DINING

Dine with Paris at Le Jules Verne (page 60)

58 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

French Fare | Contemporary | Seafood | Dinner with a View | Brasseries

DINING

Restaurants

A New Table on the Left The Left Bank has recently welcomed the new branch of Le Bel Ordinaire, the popular bistro-wine bar that first gained success on the Right Bank. The low-key establishment has not strayed from its successful recipe, offering up a menu that changes with the seasons, ensuring freshness in every dish. The contemporary French cuisine here is simple and delicious, with the chef staying away from saturating each dish with too many ingredients. While the menu here changes very often it could include hard-boiled eggs drizzled with chive-flavoured mayonnaise or spaghetti tossed in a creamy herb sauce with Kalamata olives. The only downside to this otherwise great table is that the menu only offers 3 starters, 3 main dishes and 3 desserts to choose from, which at times could prove difficult for diners with certain dietary restrictions. - S.I. Le Bel Ordinaire 5 rue de Bazeilles (5th), 09 81 11 72 78

Stylish Seafood Brasserie Jacques Maxim, the most distinguished seafood chef in France, has designed a superb new menu for restauranteur Alain Ducasse’s stylish seafood-oriented brasserie, Rech. It’s executed by the talented young Japanese chef Hiroyuki Kanazawa, whose dishes are served in a stylish dining room with precise but very warm service. Start with oysters, or maybe the macaronade (macaroni) garnished with mussels from the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel or fish tartare with an oyster coulis, and then try the John Dory with baby artichokes, cod with potato purée seasoned with sea urchins, or lobster with foie gras pasta. They also serve a sole sautéed in butter and a Niçoise-style John Dory for two. Rech is famous for its perfectly aged Norman camembert for those who’d like to follow with cheese, or finish up with a giant chocolate, coffee or vanilla éclair or the iced Black Forest cake. Excellent wine list, too. - Alexander Lobrano Rech 62 ave des Ternes(17th), 01 45 72 29 47 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 59

DINING

Restaurants

Dinner from the Top Le Jules Verne, the legendary restaurant with some of the best views of Paris from its perch on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower, has an elegant new interior and a new chef. Chef Frédéric Anton arrived in July 2019, becoming the restaurant’s fourth chef since it opened in 1983. Anton has been chef of the romantic and gastronomically excellent Le Pré Catelan in Paris’s Bois de Boulogne park since 1997, and has placed Kevin Garcia, his former sous-chef at Le Pré Catelan, in the kitchen here. Arriving, the restaurant has been elegantly redesigned in tones of grey, white, pearl and gold by Paris-based interior designer Aline Asmar d’Amman, and the new look is contemporary but very chic, including chairs which reprise the same arch as the ones found between the four feet of the Eiffel Tower. Anton has designed three new prix-fixe menus for the restaurant, and highlights of the 230 euro menu on a recent visit included a sublime crème Dubarry, a silky cauliflower cream served with a flan of baby leeks, and chicken poached in foie gras bouillon with wild mushrooms and a sauce Albufera (duck foie gras, Cognac, white Port, Madeira, chicken bouillon and cream). – A.L.

A Culinary Eclipse Nestled between art galleries on the Left Bank, in the very chic 7th arrondissement, is where you will find the recently opened Eclipses, a delightful table for a romantic dinner or a business lunch. Chef Cyril Choisne has created a delectable menu of contemporary French cuisine that will surprise and delight. Dishes include foie gras with truffles served with a confit of beetroot, pigeon served on a bed of baby carrots and turnip, and braised lobster served with fregola sarda pasta. Everything here is made in-house, including the sinfully good selection of breads, traditional baguette, brioche roll and poppyseed rolls are all made onsite and marry very well with the lightly salted butter. Vegetarians and vegans, however, will not have an easy time choosing, the menu includes only one vegetarian starter, a salad of finely chopped pink radish and celery topped off with an interesting cloud of foamy lettuce. Mains in the evening do not include any vegetarian-suitable dishes, although the chef “borrows” from the lunch menu a carrot and mushroom risotto, that is quite delicious and filling. - S.I. Eclipses 27 rue de Beaune (7th), 01 40 13 96 42 60 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Le Jules Verne Eiffel Tower, Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 45 55 61 44 77

DINING

Restaurants

An Institutional Brasserie Sébillon, a charming traditional brasserie just on the western edge of Paris near the Porte Maillot, is exactly the kind of restaurant that assures the French capital’s reputation for culinary excellence. Sébillon opened in 1914 and has been delighting a stylish crowd of regulars with its exquisitely fresh shellfish, including oysters from such esteemed French producers as Gillardeau and Joel Dupuch, and signature roast lamb served a volonté (all you can eat) with white beans ever since. Oysters and lamb are both offered as part of a very good value 45-euro prix-fixe menu, too, with alternate choices being a starter of foie gras and a main of cod with crushed potatoes and cabbage. The main menu here caters to all tastes and appetites, too. Start with a salad of haricots verts, artichokes, tomatoes and Parmesan or some lobster-stuffed ravioli, for example, and then tuck into a sole meunière or veal sweetbreads sautéed with capers before concluding with crêpes Suzette flambéed in Grand Marnier or a giant chocolate or coffee éclair. Service here is notably charming, and along with a fine wine list, they also serve some very pleasant wines by the glass and carafe. Open daily and serving dinner until midnight, Sebillon is one of the most reliable addresses for a really good meal in Paris. - A.L. Sebillon 20 ave Charles de Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01 46 24 71 31

Contemporary Israeli Cuisine After the huge success of their restaurant Balagan, the quartet that launched it, Assaf Granit, Uri Navon, Dan Yosha and Tomer Lanzman, have opened Shabour, a new counter-seating-only address in Paris’s Sentier quarter, and it has immediately become one of the most popular new restaurants in the French capital. Take a seat at the pink marble counter here, and you’ll quickly see why. The contemporary Israeli cooking they serve is fresh, witty and delicious, and the dining room offers some of the best people-watching in the city right now. The menu evolves regularly but runs to dishes like eggs marinated in tea slicked with tahini and garnished with salmon eggs, gravlax with horseradish cream, red mullet with braised fennel and wagyu beef with freekeh, aubergine caramel and girolles mushrooms. Finish up with a malabi, which is sort of a creamy panna cotta with figs and fresh raspberries, and let the excellent sommelier guide you through the really interesting wine list here. - A.L. Shabour 19 rue Saint Saveur (2nd)

DINING

Restaurants Advertorial LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd Since 1995, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional and generous French fare using only seasonal products. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

62 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.

MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32

BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27 Seafood take away

Open Daily - Valet Service - Patios - Private Rooms

New fall carte all inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif - Starter - Main course Dessert - Wine - Coffee

www.legrandbistro.fr

d o r r Paris

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

www.aumoulinvert.fr

AubergeduMoulinVert d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris

AubergeduMoulinVert d o r r Paris w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 63

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Fauchon

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite | FOOD & WINE 64 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Yachts de Paris | CLASSIC FRENCH (4th)

DINING

Address Book

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro

(€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)

Le Select - Brasserie (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon- Sat D. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 Mº Vavin

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

L’Ambroisie | HAUTE CUISINE (4th)

Relais Louis XIII | CLASSIC FRENCH (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 65

DINING

Address Book cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French (€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie

(€€€)

An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This 2-star gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On

are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) CoCo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in the Garnier Opera House serves delicious contemporary cuisine in a refined atmosphere. Starters include tuna tataki and sea bream tartar while good mains include filet of cod and a French-style veal chop served with mashed potatoes. And for dessert enjoy an Opéra pastry, thin sheets of chocolate filled with a coffee cream. Daily B, L & D. Palais Garnier, 1 Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86 80. M° Opéra

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Le Clarence | GOURMET (8th) 66 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Monsieur | FRENCH (8th)

DINING

Address Book a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€) This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie

Benkay - Japanese

(€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian

(€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)

An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. M° Gobelins

La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)

This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm, Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin

(€€€)

This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. M° Dupleix

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€) This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€) This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€) This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above

Les Ombres | CONTEMPORARY (7th)

La Scène Thélème | GOURMET (17th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Party at the new Manko - Le Club (page 74)

68 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

An Evening of Irish Dancing Get into the spirit of Irish dance with the Danceperados of Ireland dance troupe. Dancing their way into the French capital and stepping onto the stage at the Casino de Paris on the 6th of November, the company’s Whiskey You are the Devil show is an energetic celebration of Irish music, song and of course dance. Choreographed by Michael Donnellan, former lead dancer with Riverdance and Lord of the Dance, the show sees the 12 dancers take the audience on a dance voyage through the history of Irish whiskey, via illegal pubs in Ireland to the USA’s adoption of the “liquid gold”. You can get your tickets at Fnac. - S.I.

Casino de Paris 16 rue de Clichy (9th), 08 92 69 89 26

A Night at the Opera Politics, romance and family conflicts are the cornerstone of Giuseppe Verdi’s Don Carlo. Playing through to the 23rd of the month at Opéra Bastille, the five-act opera dramatically tells the story of Don Carlo, the son of the King of Spain. Beginning with his chance meeting with Elizabeth, the opera is heartbreaking in telling their story and how war and politics ultimately keep them apart. The opera is performed in Italian with French and English surtitles. You can book your tickets online (www.operadeparis.fr), directly at the opera house or by calling 08 92 89 90 90. - S.I. Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 69

ENTERTAINMENT Events

Queen and Mozart at the Ballet The Palais des Sports is welcoming the Béjart Ballet Lausanne dance company this month to the 3rd of November for a wonderful dance recital celebrating life and hope. The Swiss dance company is bringing back Le Presbytère (Ballet for Life) five years after originally bringing it to the French capital, and it is still as impressive now as it was then. To the music of Queen and Mozart, and dressed in costumes designed by Versace, the dancers show just how uplifting dance can be. This ballet is a marvellous show of impressive technique and most of all talent. - S.I. Palais des Sports 34 blvd Victor (15th), 01 48 28 40 10

Pianomania, a music festival celebrating the piano and the talented musicians who create magnificent pieces on said musical instrument, is taking place this month with concerts held around the city in different venues. One outstanding concert not to be missed is that of Grammy Award-winning musician Chilly Gonzales. The celebrated pianist will be playing on Saturday the 16th of November at the Salle Pleyel where the audience can watch the artist command the piano with beautiful classical music punctuated by a little bit of pop. - S.I. Salle Pleyel 252 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 76 49 43 13 70 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Going Crazy for the Piano

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light

orn in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 800 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY @7PM + SUNDAY NOVEMBER 10TH @ 6PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 ) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98

Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71 AP WHERE PARIS_UK_181x132_2019.indd 1

04/09/2019 07:56

ENTERTAINMENT

Jazz & Cocktails

Cheers to Cocktails Disco fever takes over Baby Doll, the relatively new cocktail bar in the 2nd arrondissement. Velvet poufs, mirrored tables and plush floral carpet invite you into what feels like a sexy time capsule to enjoy a signature cocktail while listening to a great playlist that mixes the tunes of the 70s and 80s. The team here is adorable and serve fun and original cocktails that are inspired by the classics. Try the Bloody and G, a new take on the Bloody Mary, made with horseradish-infused gin. The bar is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 6pm until midnight on Sundays and until 2am on the other nights. Cosy and fun, it is the perfect rendezvous for escaping chilly nights in Paris. - S.I.

Spending time in Paris and enjoying a jazz concert is one of the things many people around the world dream of doing, and this month, every Thursday night, the famous Les Deux Magots café will be hosting jazz soirées, creating a magical evening for visiting tourists. From 7.30pm to 10.30pm, the café will be welcoming guest performers including the Lina Stalyte Trio and the Leslie Lewis Trio, who will transport guests to the heyday of the café when Jean-Paul Sartre was a regular and jazz music was the only sound whispering in the air in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood. You can visit www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/en for the full programme. - S.I. Les Deux Magots 6 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th), 01 45 48 73 57 72 WH E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Just Jazz

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

Baby Doll 16 rue Daunou (2nd), 06 47 94 32 10

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €185 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

ENTERTAINMENT Paris by Night

A Window onto Paris On the 34th floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel is where the Windo Skybar serves up Paris like you’ve never seen it before. This cocktail and champagne bar offers a spectacular view of the City of Light that no other venue can match and it is where head barman Jessy Lansee has designed an elaborate drinks menu inspired by the French capital. If you have a soft spot for the Left Bank, try the Rue Mouffetard cocktail made with vodka and spices, and if you want to get a taste of the Lido city’s most remarkable monuments, try the Triomphe, which mixes champagne and cognac. - S.I.

Manko Gets the Party Started Paris’s favourite Peruvian restaurant has just become one of Paris’s most popular clubs. Manko – Le Club, which was unveiled in September, comes alive every Friday and Saturday night. At midnight, when the neighbouring Théâtre des Champs-Elysées closes its doors behind its theatre-loving audience, Manko opens its own doors to its own guests who love nothing more than to party. Resident DJ Antonin Courant, guest DJs and a live band are all on-hand until 5am, making sure the music never stops. - S.I. Manko - Le Club 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 82 28 00 15 74 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Windo Skybar 3 Place du Général Loenig (17th), 01 40 68 51 31

ENTERTAINMENT

Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

LIDO

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

MOULIN ROUGE

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Oiseau Paradis, is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

Crazy Horse

A call to awaken your senses... Restaurant 8:30 pm - 12:15am Cabaret 10 pm - 4 am Closed on sundays and mondays

www.secretsquare.fr 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Le Bristol Bar

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. M° Concorde

Le Bar

Prescription Cocktail Club

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

CASINO

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Le Rubis

Duc des Lombards

Ice Kube Paris

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

76 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Les Ambassadeurs

Moonshiner

Le Lucien Bar

Bar Le Baudelaire | BARS & WINE BARS

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances,

Experimental Cocktail Bar | BARS & WINE BARS

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened in 1975, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. TuesSat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Le Mona Lisa

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Medellin

This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. M° Alma-Marceau

Pachamama

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented

Pachamama | NIGHT CLUBS

while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Silencio | NIGHT CLUBS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 77

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris HAIR SALONS

LIMOUSINES

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde

Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

ADVERTORIAL

Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin

REAL ESTATE ADVISOR Planning to Buy or Rent property in Paris? Investing in property in Paris and need a professional you can trust? César SANINT can help you! This bilingual realtor knows Paris like the back of his hand. BUYING – RENTING – RENOVATING? Call César! Feel free to schedule an appointment by calling 06.09.33.91.68 or at homy@homyparis.com Homy Paris Real Estate 92 Avenue Kléber (Paris, 16th) - M° Trocadéro

EUROSTAR & TRAINS Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

MEDICAL SERVICES American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo, 92200 Neuilly-sur78 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra

Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) - 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

PARIS DISTRICTS 1st ARRONDISSEMENT

department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Blvd Haussmann.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT

Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT

Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT

The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT

Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT

High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT

The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT

The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT

Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT

Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

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Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

80 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

ROMAIN BOISSELEAU

ASSISTANT HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL CASTILLE

Paradis Latin

L’Assaggio

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? I would recommend a walk through the streets of Montmartre while waiting for the sun to set. Sit on the stairs of the Sacré-Coeur and let the magic of Paris appear when the entire city is lit up. Then enjoy a good diner at Café de l’Homme facing the Eiffel Tower, glittering every hour as if in a dream. Finish the evening with a private old 2CV car ride with a glass of champagne to discover more of what Paris has to offer at night.

As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? For an authentic French food restaurant I would recommend trying Chez Monsieur. For me, this place offers the best veal stew in Paris and some other tasty dishes. To smooth away the fatigue of a long Parisian day, I would suggest enjoying fabulous Italian cuisine and the best tiramisu in Paris at L’Assaggio, the restaurant of the Hotel Castille. Finally, one of my favourite restaurants in the capital is the 2 Michelin-starred restaurant Kei by Japanese chef Kei Kobayashi. Each bite is a subtle explosion, a delicate balance, and a perfect mix. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? The Montparnasse Tower lets you enjoy Paris from all directions and see its monuments from the top at 210 metres. You can take the most beautiful photos of your stay there. The Musée d’Orsay is one of my favourites in Paris. In the past this place was a train station

82 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2019

Violetta and Alfredo

and is now a not to be missed cultural spot full of Impressionist artworks. Lastly I would suggest discovering the Saint-Eustache, a church situated in the 1st arrondissement. Its architecture is impressive and it is full of history. If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? Each side of the River Seine offers what you need for shopping. My preference would be on the Right Bank, which has a large selection of streets dedicated to shopping (Champs-Elysées, Avenue Montaigne, Rue Saint-Honoré), department stores such as Printemps and Galeries Lafayette and small designer boutiques, especially in Le Marais. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? After a good day in Paris, a stop at Violetta and Alfredo for a very gourmet teatime. Then a tailor-made private river cruise on a Venetian boat with a good bottle of champagne. Followed by a romantic dinner at Coupe-Chou Restaurant, of course in front of the fireplace, while your concierge places beautiful red roses all over your room. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots. Disneyland Paris is of course a must do with the children. Escape the city centre for a day full of dreams with Mickey Mouse and his friends. I also suggest to families to discover the Atelier des Lumières, it is a very nice and original way to start introducing children to

art. Finally the Grande Galerie de l’Evolution and the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes are interesting places for animal lovers. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? I particularly love the atmosphere of the Prescription Cocktail Club in Saint-Germaindes-Prés. You can go back to the 1930s and enjoy an original creation. Moonshiner is one of my favourite hidden bars at the back of a tiny pizzeria next to Bastille. Also try the exquisite cocktails of Danico, Daroco restaurant’s bar, in the old Jean Paul Gaultier workshop. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? La Gare by Gastón Acurio, the famous Peruvian chef, is an outstanding place for Sunday brunch to taste world cuisine that is an invitation to travel. In a simpler way, the Café Pouchkine invites you to enjoy its delicious Russian pastries and hot beverages. Otherwise fulfil all your expectations with brunch at the Peninsula Hotel Paris. Its incredible buffet, the luxurious decoration and the live music are the perfect recipe for an unforgettable moment.

My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Claus Palais Royal 12pm: Lunch at Michelin-starred restaurant, Saturne 3pm: Hang out and shop in Le Marais 8pm: Dinner and a show at the Paradis Latin

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