WhereTraveler Paris — July 2019 by Where Paris

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PARIS | CONTENTS

8 12

Hot Dates

Time for Sun... And Rosé

This month’s calendar of must-see events

Summer in the South We take you to the French Riviera for a sun-filled getaway

Discover the city’s best addresses for an al fresco drink

The guide 18 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 46 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 50 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 66 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J ULY 2 0 19

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 306

PARIS HEATS UP THIS SUMMER

Al Fresco Bars, Outdoor Festivals and Sexy Swimsuits WP JULY 2019 COVER V2.indd 1

11/06/2019 12:53

Eve wears an Etam swimsuit, Céline Robert visor, Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen rings and bracelet and a Byredo bag. Turn to page 30 for more of our Swimmingly Chic photo shoot. Cover Photo © Alex Fadel

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We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.

GRAND LANGE 1 Dubail limited edition of 25 pieces. Blue mother-of-pearl dial.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle,

parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing

we craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch

techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures

twice. Thus, after the Grand Lange 1 has been assembled for the first

long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-

time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement

ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE PARIS 19, Rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, Tel. 01 42 65 68 71 21 Place Vendôme · 71-73 Avenue des Champs-Elysées · 66 Rue François 1er

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PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com

Seeing Paris in the summer is one of the best ways to see the city, one because you can walk around the capital discovering its beautiful monuments, and two you can sip on rosé all day while sitting outside in the sun. And in our Time for Sun… and Rosé feature we bring you a round-up of our favourite spots in the French capital to sip and soak in

EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko

the glorious Parisian sun.

ADVERTISING  KEY ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon*

In this issue we also invite you to pack your bags, put on some sunscreen and head to the south with our Summer in the South feature

DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

introducing you to the French Riviera.

DIGITAL MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT Pauline Valter*

For our readers hoping to update their summer wardrobes make sure

OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREMAGAZINE.COM

you turn to our Shopping section where our Swimmingly Chic photo shoot showcases the best swimsuits, while our It Bag selection will sure have you struggling with making a statement-making choice. Meanwhile, our foodie readers will be spoilt for choice with our roundup of restaurants in our Dining section with contemporary cuisine, Italian fare and the city’s new bistros seducing your taste buds. And if

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you’re looking for great music, turn to our Entertainment section where we bring you all the happenings around the city this month including

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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Juillet 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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July

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

Marilyn! FROM JULY 9 Even after more than 50 years after her death, Marilyn Monroe still fascinates the world. Her beauty, her allure and her enigma are eternally celebrated and this month you can admire the star as she was captured on film by three of the most talented American photographers, Sam Shaw, Milton Greene and Bert Stern. The Divine Marilyn photo exhibition, showing at Galerie Joseph, is bringing together the works of the three photographers, bringing to light the different facets of Norma Jeane. 116 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01 42 71 20 22

8 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Marilyn Monroe Photographed by Milton H. Greene © 2019 Joshua Greene www.archiveimages.com; Jane Fonda chez Lipp, 1963 © Willy Rizzo; Jeanloup Sieff, Astrid Heeren, Bill Blass dress for Maurice Rentner, Palm Beach, Harper’s Bazaar, 1964 © Estate of Jeanloup Sieff; Eiffel Tower © Paris Tourist Office - Photographe : Amélie Dupont

PARIS THIS MONTH

Turn Your Back to Fashion ALL MONTH

Stars in Paris THROUGH TO JULY 27 They are some of the world’s biggest stars and they were all captured by photographer Willy Rizzo in Paris. See Audrey Hepburn play with balloons in the Jardins des Tuileries, Jane Fonda sitting at Brasserie Lipp or Keanu Reeves relaxing with a coffee on his hotel suite balcony as they all come together as part of Studio Willy Rizzo’s latest photo exhibition, Paris est une Fête. The gallery is open from Monday to Saturday, from 11m to 7pm. 12 rue de Verneuil (7th), 01 42 86 07 31

Fashion Week THROUGH TO JULY 4 The fashion capital transforms into a fabulous catwalk, with the Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 Haute Couture collections taking centre stage. Admire all the couture gowns created by the famous fashion houses such as Dior, Stéphane Rolland and Chanel, and see all the extravagant wedding gowns that close every designer’s show.

Plunge your fashionable self in Back Side, Dos à la Mode, the fashion exhibition putting the spotlight on the, and at times spotlight-stealing, back of dresses, jackets and corsets. The Palais Galliera is putting on the show at Musée Bourdelle with pieces from famous fashion houses including Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier. Turn to our Arts & Attractions section for more information. 18rue Antoine-Bourdelle (15th), 01 49 54 73 73

Bastille Day JULY 14 Don’t miss the spectacular fireworks to celebrate the French national holiday. Pack a picnic basket and head to the Champ de Mars from the afternoon to secure your spot in front of the Eiffel Tower or if you’re not brave enough to tackle the crowds ask your concierge to book you a table at Girafe for the ultimate dinner with a view, with the restaurant boasting a terrace with a great view of the Eiffel Tower. 1 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 40 62 70 61 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs JULY 4-7 JAPAN EXPO This show brings together Manga editors, shops and designers influenced by Japan and features fashion shows, video games, concerts and Japanese culture and traditions including folk culture and martial arts. The show is open from 10am to 6pm. www.japan-expo.com Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte, Villepinte 93420

JULY 6-8 INTERFILIERE This trade show, open to

3 TO 7 JULY The Champs de Mars is welcoming the sixth edition of the Longines Paris Eiffel Jumping. The prestigious equestrian show is open to the public to watch and is the chance to see the world’s best riders compete. Visit www.pariseiffeljumping.com for all the practical information.

professionals only, is a unique event for lingerie, active wear materials and accessories. The show brings together trends and innovations in the industry and takes a look at the performance of fibres, fabrics, designs and more. Some 280 exhibitors from 28 countries are on hand. The show is open

Tour de France 28 JULY Be part of the excitement and head to the Champs-Elysées today to watch the last leg of cycling’s most prestigious sporting event, the Tour de France. Watch as the sleekest and fastest cyclists zip through the city and race to the finish line on the most beautiful avenue in the world to take away the coveted prize.

Classical Music JULY 6 In the most iconic of monuments of the French capital, the Eiffel Tower, settle in for a once in a lifetime experience. Tonight, in the Salon Gustave Eiffel, Euromusic will be presenting Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons. Tickets at Fnac. Salon Gustave Eiffel, 5 ave Anatole France (7th), 01 44 11 23 33 10 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

from 9am to 6pm. www.july.interfiliere-paris.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

JULY 6-8 UNIQUE BY MODE CITY This trade show, open to professionals only, brings together the latest in swimwear, beachwear, resort wear, accessories and more in a summertime atmosphere. Textiles, apparel, luxury goods and beauty are all on the agenda and there is a special section devoted to Millennials. The show is open from 9am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 8th. www.unique-by-mc.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

Longines Paris Eiffel Jumping Chesall Ryan - ® Jessica Rodrigues; Tour de France istock 2019 © Razvan . Eiffel ToweriStockphoto 2019 © zodebala

Horsing Around

TWO FLOORS D E D I C AT E D TO FRENCH GOURMET FOOD @PRINTEMPSDUGOUT @PRINTEMPSOFFICIAL

F O R YO U R H E A LT H , P R A C T I C E R E G U L A R LY P H Y S I C A L A C T I V I T I E S . W W W . M A N G E R B O U G E R . F R

A L C O H O L A B U S E I S DA N G E R O U S F O R T H E H E A LT H . C O N S U M E W I T H M O D E R AT I O N .

Getaway

Summer

IN THE SOUTH By Sandra Iskander

12 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Nikki Beach © Fairmont Monte Carlo; Cannes, iStockphoto 2019 © golibo;Monaco Cathedral, iStock photo 2019 © Stefano Carnevali

Opposite page: The Fairmont Monte Carlo Hotel. This page: The city of Cannes (above) and the Monaco Cathedral

ou haven’t lived if you haven’t spent a summer in the South of France. The French Riviera, characterised by exceptional weather and an extravagant lifestyle, has always been the popular destination for jetsetters who come here to relax and enjoy the summer sun. Stretching over Nice, Cannes, and Monaco, the French Riviera became a fashionable resort and a playground for the rich and famous in the late 19th and 20th centuries. Originally a winter getaway, it has fast become a summer destination accommodating famous residents thanks to some of the world’s most lavish hotels, restaurants and private beaches that are sprawled across its coast.

A place synonymous with royalty, wealth and luxury, Monte Carlo is where the beautiful people opt to escape. Peacefully calm, the city hums with wealth, from the extravagant cars to the perfectly coiffed ladies lunching, this place is simply impeccable. If it is your first time visiting Monte Carlo an attraction worth visiting is the Prince’s Palace that has been the home of the Grimaldi family since 1297. Overlooking the azure-blue Mediterranean Sea it truly is a fairytale palace set up high on the proverbial hill. Built in 1215 on a site of a fortress, the Palace is open to the public to visit and where you can admire 15th century frescoes, the Louis XV lounge decorated in yellow and gold, the Throne Room, which features a Renaissance

Famous for its Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes offers one of the most beautiful tourist settings in the world. With luxury hotels and designer labels aligning the boulevard it is the vision we all have of this glitz-filled city. Being home to one of the most major events of the film industry, the Cannes Film Festival, Cannes is accustomed to playing host to the world’s most talented with international stars and Hollywood big players having all sashayed along its ephemeral red carpet. Experience the glitz and glam of the city and head to the Martinez Hotel or the Intercontinental Carlton Hotel, two of the most prestigious locations along the Croisette, where many a motion picture deals have been made. The star-studded hotels give you an old-world feel, both with their architectural beauty and extravagant elegance. Enjoy a sea-side cocktail on their private beaches before heading off for a spot of shopping at Louis Vuitton or Bottega Veneta before enjoying a walk through the Le Suquet area, Cannes’s old city. Le Suquet is made up of narrow streets that wind around, giving you a hint of a medieval flavour. In the evenings, make sure you book a table at the Hotel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes or the JW Marriott Hotel with both luxurious hotels offering outdoor bars and dining areas where guests can enjoy dinner and drinks with a breathtaking view of the sea in the warm summer breeze.

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 13

Getaway

The Casino de Monte Carlo (above) and Alain Ducasse’s new restaurant, Omer (below)

fireplace, the Palatine Chapel that was built in the 17th century, and the State Apartments. The Monaco Cathedral, located just across from the Palace, is also a monument worth a visit. Built in 1875, the cathedral is designed in the Roman-Byzantine style and it is the burial place of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace. Of course one of Monte Carlo’s most famous addresses is the Casino de Monte-Carlo. An integral part of what makes Monte Carlo such an attractive destination, the Casino offers an old-world glamour with its decadent décor and sophisticated gaming rooms. Here, patrons will find Black Jack, Roulette and Ultimate Texas Hold’em Poker tables, and during the warmer months guests are invited to play at the tables in the Salle Blanche & Terrasse, which offers a majestic panoramic view of the Riviera, adding to the glamour of playing Black Jack in Monte Carlo. However, when it comes to gambling not everyone loves the seriousness of being at a table, so for anyone wanting to try their luck without being dealt cards you’ll be happy to know that Monte Carlo is also home to the Sun Casino. Located in the luxurious Fairmont Monte Carlo Hotel, the Sun Casino is Monaco’s “American” casino with 195 slot machines and the only casino in the Principality with craps tables. Spending an evening at the Casino is of course de rigueur when

in Monte Carlo, however, eating at an Alain Ducasse restaurant is undeniably quite the experience that is not to be missed. The king of haute cuisine recently opened Omer, a Mediterranean restaurant with a generous focus on sharing platters. Dine on Lebanese falafel, Greekstyle marinated sardines and grilled veal. Here humble ingredients such as eggplants, celery and mint, come together to create dishes that explode with flavour. The restaurant also boasts a spectacular wine cellar with no less than 1000 bottles and an inviting table where tastings can be organised.

YOUR ADDRESS BOOK TO THE FRENCH RIVIERA MARTINEZ HOTEL 73 blvd de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes, 04 93 90 12 34 INTERCONTINENTAL CARLTON HOTEL 58 blvd de la Croisette, 06414 Cannes, 04 93 06 40 06 HOTEL BARRIÈRE LE MAJESTIC CANNES 10 blvd de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes, 04 92 98 77 00 JW MARRIOTT CANNES 50 blvd de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes, 04 92 99 70 00

MONACO CATHEDRAL 4 rue Colonel-Bellando-de-Castro, 98000 Monaco, +377 93 30 87 70 CASINO DE MONTE CARLO Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco, +377 98 06 21 21 SUN CASINO Fairmont Monte Carlo Hotel 12 ave des Spélugues, 98000 Monaco, +377 98 06 12 12 OMER Hotel de Paris Monte-Carlo Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco, +377 98 06 39 39 14 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Monaco Casino, iStockphoto 2019 © Bruev; Omer © Pierre Monetta

PRINCE’S PALACE Place du Palais, 98015 Monaco-Ville, +377 93 25 18 31

www.tasaki.co.jp

Feature

Time for Sun… AND ROSÉ By Sandra Iskander

The sun is out, and shining, and that means one thing here in Paris… going al fresco. The city waits all year long for tables to head out and up, to sit outside and watch the world go by or sit on a rooftop overlooking the gorgeous city, either way the winning ticket is a spot outside. Here we share with you our favourite spots to get some sun and more importantly to enjoy a glass of chilled rosé.

The city’s first outdoor speakeasy, Le Jardin invites you into a secret garden to enjoy Paris-made beer from the Paname Brewing Company and local Parisian wine courtesy of the Winerie Parisienne. Le Jardin 21 rue de la Féderation (15th), 01 45 78 58 44 16 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

On the first floor of Le Brach, the Philippe Starckdesigned hotel, chill on comforta ble couches, shaded by oversized pot plants, and snack on black truffle and edamame dim sum and poke bowls. Le Brach 1 rue Jean Richepin (16th), 01 44 30 10 00

Paris flea market, city, near the famous On the outskirts of the festive barbecue a n, rde Ga r me g Sum ile enjoying a the MOB Hotel is hostin wh rs we ske n grill your ow Fridays, and party where you can and ays rsd to 10pm on Thu s. day drink. Open from 6pm Sun on Saturdays and from 12pm to 10pm tel Ho B MO 70 Saint-Ouen, 01 47 00 70 6 rue Gambetta, 93400

Le Brach © Yann Audic; Le Jardin © Stéphane Michaux

, the seafood Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Polpo sandy beach a into turns Paris, of brasserie just outside a beach chair, taking you to the south of France. Grab view with a put your feet in the sand and enjoy the the other. in beer cold a and hand one in lobster roll Polpo erret, 01 41 34 32 86 47 quai Charles Pasqua, 92300 Levallois-P

Crédits Mademoiselle Mouche; ; A.Chaigno at Petit Palais ©A.Schachmes; Ralph’s © Yann Deret

Le Brach © Yann Audic; Le Jardin © Stéphane Michaux

sary, Bateaux-Mouches To celebrate its 70th anniver open-air rooftop bar, eral em eph its ated gur has inau the River Seine and king rloo Ove e. uch Mademoiselle Mo is the hot spot for bar this er, Tow with a view of the Eiffel sday to Saturday dne We n from cocktails with a view. Ope Sundays. on 4pm from 6pm to 1am and from e, uch Mo lle oise dem Ma t de l’Alma (8th) Port de la Conférence – Pon

Shop till you drop at Printem ps before heading to the for lunch with a view. Sup ernature, the latest addition 8th floor to Printemp du Goût, specialises in veg etar gnocchi with goat cheese ian and vegan dishes. Lunch on , pesto and topped with haz elnuts while looking over the sple ndid view of the city. Supernaturel 8th floor of Printemps de l’Ho mme 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 53 02

Nestled in the garden of the Petit Palais museum, Le Jardin du Petit Palais is a cute little have n for a tranquil lunch. With the sounds of the birds chirping in the background, enjoy light and tasty dishes including roasted king prawns served with green beans, and sweet straw berries for dessert served with a refreshing lemon, ginger and mint sorbet. Le Jardin du Petit Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00

ptons with wrought iron Ralph’s takes you to the Ham cushions decorating the te furniture and blue and whi Ralph Lauren Left Bank the in nd fou nt aura rest patio of the lush plants dine de sha the In rd. rtya boutique’s cou York strip steak. New or d sala b on crab cakes, Cob h’s Ralp 01 44 77 76 00 173 blvd Saint-Germain (6th),

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 17

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag Check is back outwith XXXX more Shooting sparkles SXXX (opposite on page page) 48

18 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Sarah Jessica Parker © Fendi

SHOPPING

Accessories

Fendi Fever The Italian house’s iconic Baguette bag is back with a modern twist. Its cameo role on Sex and the City was a standout role alongside Sarah Jessica Parker, and now, almost 20 years later you can get your hands on the purple sequin Baguette. Available from mid-July, the special re-edition of the bag brings the 90s to 2019 with the same deep purple hue but this time around the bag can be worn cross-body thanks to its detachable shoulder strap. - S.I. Fendi Boutique 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 84 52

Fendi bag © Fendi; Apple Watch © Hermès

Get Smart with Hermès The world of technology has joined forces with the world of fashion with the release of the Apple Watch Hermès Series 4. The new edition Apple smart watch brings all the functionalities for today’s always-connected world, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, 18-hour battery life, with Hermès, the luxurious French fashion house, bringing its savoir-faire to the watch’s aesthetic look. Hermès’s signature Double Tour bracelet brings fashionable sophistication to the smart watch, allowing you to stay connected without compromising your style. - S.I. Hermès Boutique 24 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 17 46 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 19

SHOPPING

Accessories

By Sandra Iskander

Barbara Rihl 1 rue du 29 Juillet (1st), 01 40 15 02 07

Salvatore Ferragamo 45 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 36 37

Burberry 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 40 07 77 74

Massimo Dutti 134 rue Tronchet (9th), 01 49 24 19 20

Sequoia 306 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 47 03 05 60

Hermès 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 40 17 46 00

Jil Sanders 56 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 44 95 06 70

Chanel 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 66 00

Mango 54 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 44 53 73 30

Gucci 60 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 69 80 80

Camille Fournet 5 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 60 73 76

Michino www.michinoparis.com

20 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Chanel bag © Chanel

IT BAGS

SHOPPING Event

The Summer of Normandy with

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

he rich and beautiful region of Normandy in western France is the guest of honour this summer at the Galeries Lafayette department store on the Boulevard Haussmann. The event, Normandie Chérie, is dubbed as a road trip to creation and art with architecture, food and fashion among the myriad themes to be found. The department store is highlighting the creative energy of this diverse region of fields, farms, wooded countryside and beaches that inspired the Impressionist painters, the great fashion designers Gabrielle Chanel and Christian Dior as well as leading filmmakers. The gastronomy of Normandy is being showcased as well through an abundance of regional products. From the store windows to interactive displays, the natural and cultural heritage of the region is the star of the show and the event emphasises how the nature and heritage of Normandy have inspired the greatest of creative figures over the past 100 years. Normandy has played a unique role in French culture and since the 19th century writers, poets, painters, filmmakers, contemporary artists, architects and fashion designers have drawn their inspiration from the region where for instance the 950-year-old 22 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Bayeux Tapestry or the Gothic cathedral of Rouen are found, along with the glamorous resort of Deauville and last year the house of Chanel launched its Paris-Deauville eau de toilette, which draws its inspiration from landscapes of the Normandy coast where Chanel opened her first boutique. Normandy is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Le Havre as well as legendary destinations like the home and garden of Claude Monet in Giverny, for it was from his garden there that he drew his inspiration for The Water Lilies. For the event a genuine road show is also on the agenda with a fashion shoot in various places in Normandy with the clothing, accessories, models and back drops all celebrating the region. The fashion video and photography with the partner brands of this event have been undertaken by the award-winning Canadian artist Kourtney Roy. The joyful, at times surrealist, visuals use the various locations in the region as stunning background sets. From July 5th through to September 1st

40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

Self-Portrait of Kourtney Roy, the photographer of the Normandie Chérie event Photo © Kourtney Roy

By Patricia Valicenti

www.haviland.fr COLLECTION LURÃ&#x2021;AT BY WILMOTTE

SHOPPING For Him

Crystal Details Elegantly sombre sums up Lalique’s new accessories collection for men. The French luxury house’s first ever jewellery collection for gentlemen embodies the savoir-faire of crystal making, what has made Lalique’s precious name in the world of crystals. The collection features cufflinks, tie clip, ring, bracelet and a pendant, all designed to capture the light with each black crystal centrepiece. Baptised L’Homme Alpha, the collection highlights the signature work of the house, satin and repolished finishes.. - S.I. Lalique Boutique 11 rue Royale (8th), 01 53 05 12 81

Moon Dance The Omega Speedmaster Professional became the first watch to fly to the moon 50 years ago when Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin became the first humans to walk on the lunar surface on July 20th, 1969 during the Apollo 11 mission. And so 50 years later, on this golden anniversary, Omega is celebrating the occasion with a brand new limited edition Speedmaster. The timepiece’s 42mm case, bracelet, dial, hour markers and hour-minute hands have all been created in 18K Moonshine™ gold, a unique new alloy whose colour is inspired by the shining moonlight in a dark blue sky. The watch is powered by a brand-new manual-winding Master Chronometer calibre 3861 and remaining true to the historical piece of 1969, it is outfitted with a burgundy bezel ring. This Limited Edition Speedmaster has been brought out in just 1014 pieces. - P.V. Omega Boutique 12 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 44 11 34

24 WH ER E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

LA MARTINA PARIS 39 rue Saint Placide, VI Tél +33 (0)143 27 88 42

LA MARTINA SAINT-TROPEZ 22 Traverse du Marbrier Tél +33(0)4 94 43 72 20

LA MARTINA MEGEVE 34 quai du Prieuré (Place Saint-Paul) Tél +33 (0)4 50 54 11 92

LA MARTINA Polo Club SAINT-TROPEZ 1999 route du Bourrian - GASSIN Tél +33(0)4 94 43 72 20

SHOPPING For Him

A Celebratory Step French brand Bensimon is celebrating 40 years since the release of its most iconic item, the tennis shoe. Marking the milestone, Bensimon is releasing a special edition of the shoe in white with the number 40 proudly emblazoned on the back.- S.I. Bensimon Boutique 20 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01 40 20 09 62

Your Perfect Weekend Accessory Under the historical glass rooftop of Galerie Vivienne is where you will find the Aïzea boutique where luxurious leathergoods are put on-show, asserting their place in every gentleman’s collection of accessories. Specialising in designs using exotic leather including python and alligator, Aïzea offers shoppers a selection of handmade sneakers and bags ranging from backpacks to more traditional briefcases. The brand also offers demanding gentlemen a bespoke service by way of designing their own bag, offering them the opportunity to create a unique accessory. Meaning wind in the Basque language, Aïzea takes gentlemen on a whirlwind voyage through their savoir-faire, and with their 24-hour travel bag that is handcrafted in Spain, gentlemen will be accompanied by the perfect accessory no matter where the wind takes them. - S.I. Aïzea Boutique 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09 86 58 69 41 26 W HER E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

So Extramething Everyordinary Day™

DAYS at La Vallée Village, Paris

Discover more than 110 boutiques from leading fashion and lifestyle brands in a charming open-air setting, with extraordinary savings of up to 70%* until 14 July. Open seven days a week, the Village can be reached from from central Paris in as little as 40 minutes and is just 5 minutes from Disney® Parks. #LaValleeVillage

*off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. From 15 July 2019, a minimum of 33% off. © La Vallée Village 2019

05/19

SHOPPING Beauty

BEST BEAUTY BUYS of the Month By Sandra Iskander Look better and brighter with these great beauty products

Give your face a helping hand and lift it to new heights with Eisenberg’s Serum Affinant Visage. The serum works to fight against sagging skin especially around the chin and neck, toning and firming your skin, giving your face a sculpting lift. Available at Marionnaud

Let your body shimmer with Rituals’s new Soul Shimmering Body Oil from the Ritual of Karma line of products. Made with holy lotus and organic white tea, the body oil will leave your skin moisturised and smelling divine all while giving it a hint of shine. Rituals Boutique 24 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 01 57 40 67 93

Bless your skin with Antipodes’s new Blessing Anti-Pollution Light Face Serum. Made with kiwi seed oil, Asian ginger and white jasmine, the anti-pollution serum protects your skin from the urban life and its stress on your skin by acting as a barrier to keep your skin looking clear. Available at Printemps

Help keep your skin feel soft with Valmont’s new Face Exfoliant. Used once a week, the scrub promises to stimulate cell renewal through its gentle exfoliation, leaving you with smoother, younger looking skin. Spa Valmont Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

Rejuvenate and detoxify your skin with La Prairie’s new Platinum Rare Cellular Life Lotion. The pre-serum lotion helps protect your skin with its richness in antioxidants, and helps break down the damaged proteins to help its renewal process, leaving it looking smoother and with improved elasticity. Available at Galeries Lafayette

Keep your skin hydrated throughout the day with Bioeffect’s Osa Water Mist. Rich in hyaluronic acid, the mist promotes skin hydration, which helps it look younger and firmer. Available at Le Bon Marché 28 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Rituals © Thomas Van Oorschot

Get a Hollywood-winning smile with Beverly Hills Formula’s Black Pearl whitening toothpaste. The charcoal-based toothpaste works to remove stains to leave your teeth whiter. Available at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées

The outlet attraction 400 top

brands from 30% to 70% of f all year round*

LIU · JO

Reference Price: 265€ Outlet Price: 154€

50% off your shuttle bus from Paris by entering the promo code ONPWH2019 at shuttle.onenation.fr***

OPEN 7/7

10 min from Versailles 30 min from Paris

www.onenation.fr *-30% to -70% on recommended retail prices, depending on the periods and of fers in stores. / -12% Tax Refund for residents outside the EU. The total amount of your purchases of the day must exceed €175,01 **Subject to availability on stock ***Exept the tickets including the entrance ticket to the Versailles Palace.

SHOPPING Fashion

Swimmingly Chic Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: FrĂŠdĂŠric Blanc Make-Up & Hair Stylist: Caroline Madisson Model: Eve of Metropolitan Models Special thanks to Brach Hotel

30 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Boden swimsuit Sans-Arcidet hat Goralska bracelet, necklace and ring JB Martin shoes w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 31

SRI by Paris de Janeiro swimsuit Marc Deloche cuff bracelet and earrings Izipizi sunglasses 32 W H ER E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

I.D. Sarrieri swimsuit Buccellati necklace, ring and earrings Coco Lucquiaud fascinator

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 33

Eres swimsuit Swarovski cuff bracelet and ring Michael Kors watch E.B. Meyrowitz sunglasses

34 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Maison Lejaby swimsuit TBS visor David Morris rings, bracelet and necklace

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 35

NoĂŠmi Devime dress Triumph swimsuit Jimmy Fairly sunglasses Etoile de Mer headband Fred bracelet and ring Stella Dutti bag 36 W H ER E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Sans Complexe swimsuit XY Unisexe t-shirt Coco Lucquiaud cap Histoire dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Or cuff bracelet Jamin Puech bag

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 37

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

•

Guerlain •

BOU

HUR

LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

INS

OY AUR EM

VIGN

AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

• • • IKKS

Rossignol

EL OU

NES

UCI

C AP

•

E-S

R-D

DES

LIE

A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray N H Dunhill C O Corthay Christofle • U B Y Cartier • • Baume&Mercier ED AM RU • OLNE Piaget EC • Diesel V RU • Hugo Boss E Maître Parfumeur • Bodum • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo X • Van et Gantier IWC • PA I Dinh • • • LA •Fred Alexander McQueen • • UE DE •Goralska Cartier Emporio Armani R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo Bvlgari •Daum • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE • DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O Chaumet M • Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T EVA

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

S ES ED RU

RO T-

JUI 29

LLE

D’A E RU

ED U

FreyWille •

ON OR

-H

• Astier de Villatte

ES É

• Vilebrequin

-H

Sarah Lavoine •

MI RA

T-R

Missoni

•Frank Namani

PYRAMIDES

Redline •

•

Ecco

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

• Heschung •Christian Dior •Clergerie Penhaligon’s • Fragonard• •

-H

38 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com

• Jovoy

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

•

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

Bally Hackett Omega

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

38 ave de l’Opéra - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 01 68 shop.opera@bodum.com

Tommy Hilfiger

Le Jacquard Français

• Max&Moi

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

•Gant • • RUE

Bodum, a Danish family owned company that has been delivering innovative designs for more than 70 years. In 1974, Bodum introduces its first French Press® coffeemaker. Nowadays, Bodum continues to extend its collection of wonderfully designed products for every day use, ranging from kitchen and table top articles to small electric appliances..

• J.M. Weston

•

ES CR IB

•

Golfino • •Loding

▼

BODUM

•

Sephora

Exaltation

RUE

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

-G INT

INS

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

Église de la Madeleine

Opéra Garnier

CAUM

RUE

MADELEINE

Gorky Antiquités

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

•

GOD

OT D

RUE

HUR

RUE BOUDREA U

ARTI

TR E RU

MAT

DES

Sabre • Paraboot•

SHOP STOP

RUE

MAT

DES

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE

U EA

9 Place Vendôme - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 40 20 21 00 www.dubail.fr

Galeries Lafayette Homme

’A EL

HAVRE-CAUMARTIN

Discover our newly redesigned three-floor Rolex boutique, located in a magnificent Parisian 18th century mansion. Come and share an exceptional moment, benefit from the expertise of our sales team and our watchmakers, all committed to the values of Rolex and its quality of service.

P R O V EN

RU E JO UB ER

ADOR

DUBAIL VENDÔME

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

MOG

Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût

RUE MOG ADOR

Galeries du Diamant •

ET H

ÉR

ÈSE

NORMANDIE CHÉRIE AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN PARIS 9 - METRO 7 AND 9: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE - OPEN EVERY DAY (1) H AU S S M A N N .G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E .C O M / E N

(1) OUVERT TOUS LES JOURS. 44 GL 552 116 329 RCS PARIS - PHOTO RETOUCHÉE - © KOURTNEY ROY

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

LLOT

AVE

NUE

Kenzo

•

• Creed

•

RUE

Christofle •

PIE

Altan Bottier

•

RE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • E G Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• AVE De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto OILL A E Wolford • RBEUF • •Balmain Berluti ALMA MARCEAU • •Courrèges Majestic 38 Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E Repetto • R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren ••• Chloé • Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

DU B

OCCA

DOR

RUE FR

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

E V Audemars ORG

OT EN AV

• Marionnaud Paris

•Stefano Ricci

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Lacoste • •Hermès Omega• • AVE Bvlgari • Dubail • Zegna GE NUE

RUE

SHOP STOP

• GrandOptical • Bulgari

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA B OÉT •Galeries IE RUE DE PONTHIEU

29 ave Montaigne - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 03 09 paris.montaigne@harrywinston.com www.harrywinston.com

De Grisogono • Ellie Saab

U CEA

• Swarovski

• •

ORG

• Cartier

Montblanc

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple

•

Armani Collezioni

ERB

U EN

U UE EN

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

RUE BALZAC

CEA

E AV

•

• Milady

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE DE CHAI

CEA

SHOP STOP

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

MA R

RUE

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

A EDL

ALILÉ

FRI

’IÉ UE D

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE G

EM AR CEA

D’IÉ

AHO

NUE

AVE

Maison Baccarat

AV EN U

AC M

NUE AVE

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

HARRY WINSTON

D’IÉ

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

DOUX

RUE G

AVE

Founded in New York City, in 1932, The House of Harry Winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.

AVENUE KLÉBER

MAJESTIC 38

Arc de Triomphe

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

Lafayette

•

LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara

ELT

EJ EA NG OU JO N

1ER KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

AVE

NUE

FRA

IN NKL

Zadig & Voltaire

Dammann • •Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel

•

AVEN

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

40 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

COURS

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8 Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

NFÉRENCE

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

PORT DE LA CO

BERETTA GALLERY

•Adidas

ATIG

NON

The world of Beretta in the heart of Paris

Beretta Gallery 57, Rue Pierre Charron (Crossing Champs-Élysées) Pure Italian lifestyle celebrating the outdoor. PARIS - BUENOS AIRES - DALLAS - LONDON - MILANO - NEW YORK

beretta.com

estore.beretta.com

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

LEI NE BO CA

DES C

APUC

DD CIN

RUE

PU ES

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

’OP

ÉR

• De Fursac

•

Birkenstock

Acaba •

• Kam’s

RUE RICHELIEU

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

Galerie Vivienne

Pie

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS

RUE VIVIENNE

•

•D

PALAIS ROYAL

E NU

É ’OP

• ier An Lu na do Riv ab ka t rie lle Ge pp er t

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

•

• •

•

• •

•

• • •

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

’AB

by Terry Xavier Lust

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

42 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

L DE

•Cotélac

Galerie de Valois

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

•

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

Opéra Garnier

•

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

INES

RUE DE RIVOLI

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

FreyWille

Printemps du Louvre

RUE DE LA PA IX

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Aésop

•

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

SHOP STOP

Place

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

RUE S A IN T -H

The Kooples •

Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl

Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

•

ONORÉ

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

Manoush

AïZEA

•David Morris

RUE S A IN T -H

Goyard •

•Dubail

TUILERIES

RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani

Chopard

• Lipault

RU E CA ST IG LI ON

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

•

Marella

• UE D

RU E CA MB ON

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

•Chanel Chanel

Max&Moi • • Roberto Cavalli Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 / www.laulhere-france.com

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

•Pucci

Dior U P H O

MADELEINE

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

•

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

• Oliver Grant

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

Jeu de Paume

Jardin des Tuileries

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Lyubov • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

LAULHÈRE

••

CONCORDE

Musée de l’Orangerie

•

Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Sartore Miu Miu

Burberry

•

•G

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

Aïzea

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

AB EL OÉT IE

NORÉ

ÉS

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

G SAI

NORÉ

RB HE ES AL DM AR EV UL BO

RUE D

ROYAL

S ES MA T H U R IN

LE VILLAGE

T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

ES MA S

•Eres •Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

•

Marella

•

• Zwilling E SÈZE

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RUE D

RUE TRONCHET

Dior

•

INES

Hackett •

RD AP

• Bucherer

INE

Omega•

APUC

EVA S

DES C

RUE

•

Tommy Hilfiger

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

IG LI O N E

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

• David Morris • Omega

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

RINS

MADELEINE

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ATHU

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

DES M

•

Chanel Dior

Pucci Le Jacquard Français

Place

LE VILLA GE ROYA L

R U E CA ST

L ’A R C A

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani

• Burma Ciro pour

•

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

•

’A N J O

Les Dandys Crockett • &Jones UIER SQ A P RUE

Burberry

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Capel

Mettez

•

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

•

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

BOUR

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Prada Pinko Gucci

’

ROQ

TOR

RUE DE SURÈNE

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Janssens & Janssens

Vuarnet

Laulhère

O AST

RUE

D ’A S

RUE D

• •

CONCORDE

La Perla

MANN

RUE

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin

R D H A U SS

CÉR

INE

NT-HO

OÉT

•

••

•

• Royal Iro Quartz Lyobov • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yamamoto

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

M CA

•

RUE ROYALE

• Yohji

BUCHERER PARIS

RUE D’ANJOU

•• •

SHOP STOP

ESN

UÉP

RU E DE DU RA

• Jitrois • Saint Laurent • Boucheron • Givenchy Alessi • • Hermès

Lanvin

B O U LE VA

•55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli • Hogan • Leonard Paris

Roger Vivier • Valentino • Heurgon • Djula • René Caovilla • Chanel • Tod’s • Cartier RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Place de la Concorde

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers. 16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

ROQ

• Marina

RUE D’AGU ESSEA U

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

WEMPE

MIR

RUE

ESN

SHOP STOP

ESN

IÈV

OÉT

E ED

• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• Christian Louboutin • Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •

•

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

E ED

Caron

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

MIR

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

E ED

Pierre Cardin

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

•

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

Gringoire Joaillier

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

CIER

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • • AV

NUE

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MIROMESNIL

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RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

Vendôme

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 43

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Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

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44 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

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Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

• Guerlain • Wolford

4 rue des Quatre Vents, Paris 6th Tel : + 33( 0)1 44 07 37 64 www.sabre.fr

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Poiray Jo • LiuFaçonnable • RUE VA R U CI Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE • Repeat Sonia • • RM • AIN Rykiel Chaumet Cashmere Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • • Lejaby LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • Ecco Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Le Minor • Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi Justine Red Dot-Drops • • U FOUR Alain Mikli • • Sabre La Perla• D • Durance RUE Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE •TS M.A.C.• •Repetto • E VEN R T A Français U ES Q Omega Heschung RUE D • S E Berluti • VR • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Saint Laurent Longines Camper • • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • Tumi • Maje Eres• • • Clergerie Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S • IUNX Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • • RU

Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles.

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Karl Lagerfeld

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •

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• Cassina JLC Opticien

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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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2 rue Guisarde, Paris 6 Tel : +33 (0)9 80 44 72 34 www.justinered.com th

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Made in France-Meant to Travel, crafted in Paris with highest care, Justine Red bags are designed for a well travelled, active and elegant woman looking for a light and chic bag to follow her 24-7. The Saint-Germain-des-Prés boutique displays all the collections in various sizes and colors plus limited editions.

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Pablo ue Diptyq in Guerla

Place des Vosges

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford • Marionnaud Paris RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • Baker Repetto • • • RU•E DES FRANCS BOUR•GE•OITed •Mademoiselle S ••• Iro • Sandro Michael Jeanne • • Essentiel • Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • Bimba y Lola • • IZIPIZI Devernois • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D• • Cos ES Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Sandro• Moscot • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •Ugg • • Lacoste • Fleux Gucci• John Galliano RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Givenchy • •Maje Le BHV Marais • Moncler Crockett Lagerfeld• ILE & Jones • RUE DU ROI DE SIC • l’Homme Chevignon TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • LI O IV R E D RUE ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul • Psyché Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane RUE

18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty

PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.

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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

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La Boutique Extraordinaire •

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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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The Broken Arm

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JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

Kate Lee

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In the heart of Le Marais, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more... 19 rue de Bretagne, Paris - 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 44 54 06 26 www.jlcopticien.com

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w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 45

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Palais Galliera celebrates Fashion from Behind (opposite page) 46 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Jeanloup Sieff, Hilde, Hervé Léger dress, Paris, Dépêche Mode, 1995 © Estate of Jeanloup Sieff

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Fouille du site de Tell Halaf © Fondation Max Freiherr von Oppenheim / Rheinisch-Westfälisches Wirtschaftsarchiv, Jean Paul Gaultier, corset bra, Ready to wear, Spring-Summer 1995 © Aurélie Dupuis / Galliera / Azentis

Exhibitions

Lost Lands The brilliant and mysterious world of the Hittite Empire is unfolding in a fascinating exhibition at the Louvre. Entitled Forgotten Kingdoms, from the Hittite Empire to the Arameans, the show is a discovery of the kingdoms that the Hittites generated from the Neo-Hittites to the Arameans. Once a powerful rival of Ancient Egypt, the Hittite Empire dominated Anatolia and would extend its influence to the Levant until circa 1200 BC. Its fall would give rise to the Neo-Hittite and Aramaean kingdoms, made up of a series of small principalities, in what would be today’s Turkey and Syria and who would inherit the political, cultural and artistic traditions of the Hittite Empire. The exhibition brings to life the majestic décors, statuary, ornaments and objects of these forgotten lands of exotic names, Carchemish, Sam’al, Hamath or Gurgum, for example. Photographs of the archaeological digs that unearthed the kingdoms are on display as well. The exhibition presents for the first time in France vestiges of Tell Halaf, a leading Syrian heritage site where the Aramean king Kapara had a palace. - P. V. Showing through to August 12th 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 53 17

Back to Back A highly original exhibition presented by the city’s fashion museum, the Palais Galliera, is unfolding off-site at the Musée Bourdelle. Entitled Back Side - Fashion from Behind, the show focuses on clothing as seen from behind and addresses our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view while questioning the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs. The back in fashion can range from the majestic train of a court gown to the sensuality of a plunging backline. This exhibition of clothing and accessories presents over 100 pieces from the 18th century up to the present day from the collections of the Palais Galliera as well as a selection of film extracts and photographs. The items on display are intriguingly juxtaposed with the sculptures of the great sculptor of the turn of the 20th century, Antoine Bourdelle, enabling the visitor to have a different look on the powerful muscular backs and slender outlines of his sculptures. - P.V. Showing from July 5th through to November 17th 18 rue Antoine-Bourdelle (15th), 01 49 54 73 73 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 47

Impressionnist, Modern & Contemporary Art

Takehiko Sugawara, Usuzumitouka, 114 x 146 cm

Modern Masters : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Renoir, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck... Contemporary Artists : Aïzpiri, Cassigneul, Chen Jiang-Hong, Tom Christopher, Lorenzo Fernandez, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa... 18, avenue Matignon 75008 Paris M° Franklin D Roosevelt Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

48 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

A certain timeless notion of Paris comes to life in an exhibition entitled Paris est une fête... (Paris is a Party) at the Studio Willy Rizzo. The show brings together some 30 photographs by master photographer Willy Rizzo of the celebrated simply having fun in the French capital. The photographs depict world-renowned artists enjoying themselves in the city be it by monuments, in the streets or in cafés. Audrey Hepburn plays with balloons in the Tuileries, Jane Fonda sits at a table at the quintessential Parisian institution that is the Brasserie Lipp, a joyful Jack Nicholson emerges on the rooftops of the Place Vendôme, Keanu Reeves barefoot on a balcony at the Plaza Athénée hotel and Fred Astaire on the terrace of Fouquet’s. The original photographs in black and white or colour have each been brought out in a limited, signed and numbered edition of eight. - P.V. Showing through to July 27th 12 rue de Verneuil (7th), 01 42 86 07 31

Audrey Hepburn dans les Jardins des Tuileries - 1956 © Willy Rizzo

The Paris Party

FALCONE

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2, place des Vosges 75004 Paris T:+33(0)1 84 83 22 22

MALINOWSKI

4, place des Vosges 75004 Paris T:+33(0)1 84 83 44 44

26, place des Vosges 75003 Paris T:+33(0)1 42 71 86 08

www.galerie-marciano.com info@galerie-marciano.com

18, avenue Matignon 75008 Paris T:+33(0)1 84 83 52 52

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

A Tribute to the Moon Footsteps on the moon, the surface of the moon, a waning gibbous moon, the moon in all of its glory and various phases is being showcased in the YellowKorner photo galleries in Paris and throughout France in an event entitled Moon Celebration to mark the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission, which brought the first man, Neil Armstrong, to the moon for it was on July 20th, 1969 that Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin became the first men to walk on the moon. Photographs on show range from the historic photographs emanating from the collection of the NASA, the space agency of the United States, to art photography in which the authors have interpreted the moon in their own special way. - P.V.

Riviera Reverie The sunny and colour-filled world of the French Riviera is stopping over in Paris this summer in an exhibition entitled Santo Sospir: A Villa on the Riviera being presented by the Galerie Vauclair in two venues. The celebrated Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat villa is currently undergoing refurbishing but is coming alive in the 7th arrondissement of Paris and at the Paul Bert Serpette market on the edge of town in an exhibition that has been created by the Galerie Vauclair, mirroring the villa’s spirit. The Santo Sospir was a mythical venue on the Riviera owned by the Weisweiller family and to which artists like Jean Cocteau - who created the frescoes inside the villa - would frequent. Its interior décors are the work of the great interior designer Madeleine Castaing. Away from Santo Sospir, the décor that Laurence and Denis Vauclair-Rouquette have re-created offers a journey onto the sun-drenched shores of the Riviera by bringing together splendid décors featuring Asian-inspired bamboo and rattan furniture, seashell vases and choice pieces of ceramics. - P.V. Showing through to July 28th 24 rue de Beaune (7th), 01 49 26 90 64 Marché Paul Bert: Allée 6, Stand 79, 96 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen 50 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Harrison Schmitt, Apollo 17 ©YellowKorner; Thierry Malty photo © Romain Laprade

Showing all month 8 rue des Francs-Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 77 08 43 For additional venues visit www.yellowkorner.com

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

t was back in 1991 that a venue opened up in Montmartre showcasing a private collection of some 300 works, sculptures, engravings, objects and furnishings by Salvador Dalí offering a unique glimpse into the work and world of the Surrealist sculptor, designer, engraver and illustrator. Dalí Paris re-opened its doors to the public last April offering a new journey into the world of the artist and enabling the public to discover the art dealer and collector, Beniamino Levi, who assembled the collection, which remains the only permanent exhibition in France, devoted to Dalí, the master of Surrealism. Beniamino Levi, an eminent Italian gallery owner started putting the collection together in the 1970s. Upon returning to Milan after the Second World War, he frequented actors in the effervescent artistic scene, notably Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri and became friends with the art critic Franco Passoni with whom he opened the Galleria Levi in Milan. He first met Dalí in 1974 in his suite at the Meurice hotel where Dalí and his wife Gala resided during their Parisian sojourns. Levi would first purchase two paintings, the 1932 Egg on the Dish without the Dish and The Invisible Harp done in 1934, which he exhibited in his gallery in Milan. After additional encounters in Paris, New York and Dalí’s home in Cadaquès in Spain, the collector launched into a new challenge, editing the sculptures of Dalí and he would progressively acquire the rights to 29 images taken from the artist’s most celebrated paintings including the Persistence of Memory, the Temptation of Saint Anthony and The Burning Giraffe, giving him the possibility of having bronzes made from models conceived by the artist. The bronze sculptures

of these images were cast in Switzerland at the legendary Perseo Foundry, which casts the work of Alberto Giacometti and Fernando Botero. Today, Dalí Paris, which has been given a redesign by the architect and scenographer Adeline Rispal offers a meander through the artist’s works and allows the visitor to embark on a non-exhaustive journey into the artistic path taken by Dalí and revealing a not so well known segment of his work while putting the spotlight on his technique and creativity. The museum segways into a gallery and while the museum presents rare sculptures, the gallery offers these works in different sizes and patinas for collectors in limited editions. The venue also hosts exhibits devoted to contemporary artists and little known aspects of Dalí’s work in a dedicated gallery space.

Salvador Dali, Gala & Beniamino Levi, dans les années 70. Archives Personnelles de M. Levi; Persistance de la Mémoire, Salvador Dali © IAR; Femme en flamme, Salvador Dali © IAR

A Discovery of DALÍ

Dalí Paris 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01 42 64 40 10

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 51

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

Arc de Triomphe - Place de l’Etoile

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.2025.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. The cathedral is closed for repairs and restoration following the fire. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité Sacré-Coeur

SAINTE CHAPELLE

La Conciergerie

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun

Eiffel Tower

52 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Notre-Dame Cathedral

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; OctDec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Tuileries Garden

Photos iStock 2019 Arc de Triomphe © pawel.gaul; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy;Notre-Dame Cathedral © kyolshin; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Sacré-Coeur © Golero ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

YACHTS DE PARIS THE DON JUAN II RESTAURANT

et sail for an exceptional and spectacular dinner-cruise on board the Don Juan II, the gourmet and gastronomic journey from Yachts de Paris. Superb, mysterious and attractive, the Don Juan II welcomes you on board for an unforgettable moment. The journey is sublime, refined and thoroughly gourmet, offering the finest French gastronomy. It is the quintessence of Parisian chic for a business or private dinner. The beautifully appointed Don Juan II departs from the private landing of the Yachts de Paris at the Port Henri IV on the banks of the Seine right across from the Cathedral of NotreDame to head out onto the stunning waterway punctuated by some of the world’s most beautiful monuments and edifices: Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre, the Conciergerie and more, so much more. The yacht’s panoramic windows offer a perfect viewing perspective onto the capital of France.

highly professional while the tables are spaced apart, offering an even more select experience. The full-course gourmet menu begins with a gastronomic hors d’oeuvre before embarking upon an appetizer, a main course, cheese and dessert followed by miniature pastries, the famous and uniquely French mignardises. Meanwhile optional top-of-the-line services are available on request for example luxury car service, a bouquet of roses, a special birthday

dessert making this exceptional experience even more exceptional.

Dinner Cruise from 8:30pm to 11:15pm. Boarding from 7:45pm to 8:15pm. The cruise last for 2 hours 45 minutes. Yachts de Paris - Port Henri IV 75004 Reservations at + 33 (0)1 44 54 14 71 By e-mail: reservations.dj2@ydp.fr donjuan2.yachtsdeparis.fr

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: A COMPLIMENTARY GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE WITH THE CODE WHERE 2019

The glamorous adventure begins on the terrace for some sumptuous champagne sipping before stepping inside the luxuriously appointed interior, a celebration to the elegant style of Art Déco, to savour a totally gourmet experience. As you cruise the river you will be treated to the amazing cuisine of Guy Krenzer, the director of creation at the house of Lenôtre, who has twice been awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France compensation, in 1988 and in 1996. A sublime food and wine pairing has been carefully chosen for you by Olivier Poussier who was named the World’s Best Sommelier in 2000 and is the Head Sommelier at Lenôtre. Service on board is personalised, discrete and w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 53

Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr ATTRACTIONS Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are three major shows, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. There is a shuttle bus from La Porte Maillot on certain days, reservations at 07.71.37.28.79 or by car from Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7.

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Catacombes de Paris

Parc Asterix

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century 54 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Thoiry Zoo Safari

This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open TueSun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

www.parismap.fr SCAN TO DISCOVER!

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened

Bateaux-Mouches | BOAT CRUISES

to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée Guimet

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

The mansion of 19 century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André th

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also

Château de Versailles | DAY TRIPS

surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 6:30pm, last tickets at 5:45pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 55

The Guide

DINING

Dine on Italian fare at Cucina (page 59)

56 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Parisian Brasseries | Mediterranean Fare | Fine Dining | Fusion | Italian Cuisine

DINING

Restaurants

Brasserie with a Modern Twist A pair of shrewd young restaurateurs have a hit on their hands with Brasserie Bellanger, a busy and goodlooking new brasserie with remarkably reasonable prices on a street that’s emerging as a restaurant row for good-value dining in Paris. The idea was to reinvent the Parisian brasserie for a new era while respecting certain visual and gastronomic traditions, so the dining room has a black-and-white honeycomb tile floor and red-velvet upholstered bentwood chairs and the menu includes dishes like marinated leeks, steak frites and an excellent Paris-Brest (choux pastry filled with hazelnut cream). They also serve more modern dishes like a vegetarian risotto. Expect a lively atmosphere and friendly service. – Alexander Lobrano Brasserie Bellanger 140 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière (10th) No phone, No reservations. Open daily.

A Culinary Nod to the Mediterranean Following on the success of his first two excellent restaurants, the Michelin starred Tomy & Co. in the 7th arrondissement and Hugo & Co. in the Latin Quarter, the exceptionally talented FrancoCambodian chef Tomy Gousset has opened Marso, a new table that serves up his own, very personal, take on the cooking of the countries that surround the Mediterranean. Interior designer Richard Lafont, who designed Gousset’s other restaurants, gave this one a teal-blue façade, oak parquet floors, and a dramatic wall mural of an octopus. Highlights from the very tempting menu here include chorizo flamed in eau de vie with salad; octopus and fennel salad with orange vinaigrette; fettuccine with guanciale, green asparagus and pecorino; grilled cod brandade with olive and chorizo and semolina cake with strawberries and mascarpone. Service is prompt and friendly and prices are very reasonable. – A.L. Marso 16 rue Vulpian (13th), 01 45 87 37 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 57

DINING

Restaurants

Starred Cuisine Since chef Bertrand Grébaut opened Septime in 2011, it has become the finest contemporary French bistro in Paris today and the one not to miss. What makes it such an outstanding restaurant is that both the kitchen and the dining room are guided by winning trinity of values, simplicity, sincerity and humility, which make a meal here a pleasure in every way. The industrial loft-like décor created by polished cement floors, bare wood tables and suspension lamps with Edison bulbs is unexpected at a restaurant with a Michelin star, but the service here is remarkably amiable and polished, and Grébaut’s cooking is simply superb. The short menu changes regularly, but highlights of a recent meal included scallops and sea urchin dressed with linseed oil in a pool of fermented beet juice, agnolotti filled with cauliflower cream and a garnish of dried bonito flakes, and yogurt sorbet garnished with cedrat and juniper berries. Grébaut’s culinary imagination has a lyrical beauty and his cooking is fresh, light and healthy. Online reservations only. – A.L. Septime 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01 43 67 38 29

With Paris Fashion Week coming up this month, an evening out in the Marais neighbourhood during this very important fashion calendar event is as natural as seeing the Hadid sisters on the runway, and one of the best restaurants to discover is Les Foodies. Chef Davide Galloni is at the helm, cooking Mediterranean dishes with Asian influences for this art déco neobistro. Galloni changes his menu regularly, however, recent dishes including beef cheek spring rolls, asparagus topped with Parmesan cheese and egg, and a sweet pea soup seasoned with mint, offer an idea of how the chef perfectly harmonises different flavours from different corners of the world. His talents don’t stop at his savoury dishes either with a dessert menu that includes the house’s signature dessert, Jardinmisu, a tiramisu prettily presented in a pot plant complete with edible flowers. The only downside here is for vegetarians and vegans, who, with the reduced seasonal menu, will not always find a huge option. – S.I. Les Foodies 6 Square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 09 82 42 73 09 58 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Fusion in the Marais

DINING

Restaurants

An Italian Rendezvous Our favourite French chef, Alain Ducasse, has embraced everyone’s favourite cuisine, Italian fare. The chef, known for his fine dining establishments in the French capital, recently opened Cucina, an Italian trattoria in the 5th arrondissement, where the simplicity of Italian dishes is celebrated with sharing plates and Italian wine. Start your evening with a prosecco before sharing a mix of antipasti including creamy burrata cheese, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese. Mains include the popular bucatini cacio e pepe and veal Milanese, and if you are looking for lighter options the menu also includes seasonal vegetables for vegetarians and anyone being a little bit careful during bikini season, although the house’s desserts are not to be denied, especially the frozen lemon. The restaurant offers a convivial ambiance and is open daily for lunch and dinner. - S.I. Cucina 20 rue Saint Victor (5th), 01 44 31 54 54

To make the most of the beautiful summer days, Le Cinq Codet Hotel rethought its green patio and chose new italian furnishings, Minotti, designed by Rodolfo Dordoni. The combination of different materials such as metal structures for the chairs and floor lamps, stones and ceramic for the tables, as well as the relief given by the lounge sofas and barstools, create a peacefull and trendy atmosphere in the heart of the busy Paris. The new refined art de la table by Anita le Grelle emphasizes the contemporary touch and the braziers participate in making intimate and warm spaces. All the Cinq Codet team is now looking forward to welcoming you in this very unique and all-new green setting !

5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th • Tel. +33(0)1.53.85.15.60 • www.le5codet.com

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DINING

Restaurants

Historically New Opened in 1832 and one of the most historic restaurants in Les Halles, which was once known as the belly of Paris when the city’s main food market was located there, has just had a stylish makeover of its beautiful mirrored dining room with art-nouveau tiles. A new menu continues to offer the Norman specialties Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond has long been famous for, including roast Camembert with honey and chicken à la Normande (in cream sauce), but at much lower prices. A selection of bistro classics has also been added to the offer with such comfort-food favourites as baby-pea soup with hazelnut oil and boeuf bourguignon. Don’t pass up the four Norman cheeses on offer, Camembert, Pont-l’Evêque, Livarot and Neufchâtel, and finish up with the excellent tarte Tatin (caramelised apples) with farmhouse cream. Open daily for lunch and dinner with non-stop service. – A.L

Fun Teppanyaki Overlooking the Seine and the city’s very own Statute of Liberty on the Ile aux Cygnes is Paris’s most popular teppanyaki restaurant, Benkay. The convivial table invites you to sit at one of the counter tables to feast your eyes on the dishes prepared right in front of you. Cooked on the hot plates, the dishes are served hot, seconds after they are prepared in front of you in an animated and entertaining manner with flames creating quite the exciting punctuation to your dinner with flambé the name of the game. Watch as the chefs prepare the fried rice on the hot plate, cooking the egg and carefully and quickly working it into the rice, watch as your lobster main is flambéed before ending your meal with the house signature dessert, the crêpe, which is also prepared in front of you on the hot plate, which is also given the flambé treatment, and served with ice-cream. – S.I. Benkay 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01 40 58 21 26 60 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond 24 rue de la Grande-Truanderie (1st), 01 40 28 45 18

DINING

Restaurants Advertorial DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com st

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.

LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 61

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host

of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€) A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Fauchon | FOOD & WINE (8th) 62 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Djakarta Bali | CLASSIC FRENCH (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Bofinger - Brasserie

(€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€) In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-

walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€) This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon- Sat D. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€) A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€) Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€) Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€) In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€) Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Bateaux Parisiens | CLASSIC FRENCH (7th)

Champeaux | BRASSERIE (1st) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 63

DINING

Address Book AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary

(€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French

(€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

This 2-star gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

(€€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Verde by Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up a fresh and inventive tapas menu and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. Tues-Sun D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Le Clarence | GOURMET (8th) 64 W HE RE PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Monsieur | FRENCH (8th)

DINING

Address Book followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian

(€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13 , 14 , 15 ) th

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Les Grandes Marches | BRASSERIE (12th)

Mama Shelter Paris | CONTEMPORARY (20TH) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 65

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Be seduced by Carmen with a night at the ballet (opposite page)

66 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

ENTERTAINMENT Dance

A Night at the Ballet Escape the heat and head to the Théâtre Mogador to see the classic Carmen, being played out from the 8th through to the 17th of the month as part of the Les Etés de la Danse festival. Choreographed by Johan Inger, watch as Don José is manipulated and seduced by Carmen, the beautiful gypsy. This latest interpretation of Carmen is intoxicating, performed with costumes in black, white and scarlet red, and tells the story with naivety as seen through the eyes of a child. You can get your tickets at Fnac.- S.I.

Théâtre Mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th)

Dancing Dreams A breathtaking show is taking over the Alhambra theatre with 30 artists bringing to life Dreams. The show, playing every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 9pm, sees the extraordinary performances of acrobats, pole dancers and aerial performers defy gravity as they elegantly command their bodies to twist, climb and dance. - S.I. Alhambra 21 rue Yves Toudic (10th), 01 40 20 40 25 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67

ENTERTAINMENT Music Festivals

Partying at Disney It’s the happiest place on earth and now Disneyland Paris is becoming the most rocking place in the French capital. From the 5th to the 7th of July, Electroland will be welcomed into Disneyland with the electro dance music festival taking over Mickey and Minnie’s happy home. This year’s event will see international DJs including Steve Aoki perform live from 8pm at the Walt Disney Studios Park, with all festival ticket holders given exclusive access to the park’s popular attractions including the terrifyingly fun The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror. Tickets available at Fnac. - S.I.

Lolla in Paris Outdoor music festival Lollapalooza is back for the third year in the French capital, and this year’s event will be welcoming a line-up that is sure to satisfy music fans. The Strokes, Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals, Jaden Smith and Migos are only some of the artists that are already tapped to perform over the 2-day festival. Held over the weekend of the 20th and 21st of July, Lollapalooza is the annual rendezvous for festivalgoers who enjoy back-to-back concerts of different genres including rock and rap. This year the festival will be also putting together quite the street food experience with dishes created by awardwinning chefs including Jean Imbert and the world’s best pastry chef, Cédric Grolet, famous for his signature trompe l’oeil desserts. Tickets at www.lollaparis.com. - S.I. Hippodrome Paris Longchamp 2 route des Tribunes (16th) 68 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Disneyland Paris 77777 Marne-la-Vallée

Circus INCOGNITUS

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a

comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from

laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY @ 8PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 12 years old w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 69

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts

L’Olympia is turning into a “Love Shack” with the arrival of The B-52’s on the 5th of July. The American band is taking over the music hall for one night only, bringing back all their greatest hits including of course Love Shack for their Farewell European Tour. Tickets at Fnac. - S.I. L’Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th)

Gossip Time American indie rock band Gossip is bringing its show to the French capital with two shows scheduled this month. Fronted by singer Beth Ditto, Gossip will be performing on the 8th of July at Salle Pleyel and on the 9th of July at Le Bataclan, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the band’s fourth studio album, Music for Men. - S.I. Tickets for both shows are available at Fnac.

70 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019 Sans titre-5 1

Pink in Paris She is known for her energetic performances and daring acts, and now Pink is getting the party started and bringing her Beautiful Trauma World Tour to Paris on the 3rd of July. Tipped to be one of the best shows this summer, the American singer will be performing her past hits as well as her latest chart toppers. - S.I. Paris La Défense Arena 8 rue des Sorins, 92000 Nanterre

01/06/2017 11:51

The B-52’s

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Cocktails in the Sun Summer time cocktails come in designer bottles in Paris, the only fitting way for the fashion capital of the world. This season French vodka brand Grey Goose has been given the designer touch by ready-to-wear house Maison Labiche, covering the bottle in blue waves. To celebrate the limited edition bottle and summer, Grey Goose has created the Le French Mule cocktail to be enjoyed in the sun at the recently opened Au Top rooftop bar and restaurant in the Marais. - S.I. Au Top 93 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 43 56 50 50

B.B. Bar 21 rue Blanche (9th), 01 40 40 21 61

72 WH E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Step into the art déco setting of the B.B. Bar for a sip of modern day cocktails courtesy of the friendliest staff in the city. The restaurant bar is an inviting counter aligned with fresh ingredients that go into the original signature cocktails, which change with the seasons. While the menu changes here on a regular basis, the staff also offers a bespoke service whereby patrons confide their favourite spirits, tastes and mood and a cocktail magically appears answering all their happy hour questions. The bar also offers a snacking menu with dishes to share including fresh radishes served on a bed of creamy guacamole. - S.I.

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

Seasonal Cocktails

Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot

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MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

ENTERTAINMENT Cabarets

Cabarets CRAZY HORSE

LIDO

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

74 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, starting on May 2nd, Oiseau Paradis is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

Cray Horse

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

“A BREATHTAKING SHOW“

P A R I S

“GLAMOROUS CABARET!“

T H R I L L S

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Paris Merveilles

Created and directed by FRANCO DRAGONE Avenue des Champs Elysées, Paris 8e - lido.fr +33 (0)1 40 76 56 10 - reservation@lido.fr

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

Moonshiner | BARS & WINE BARS (11th) 76 W H E R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Les Ambassadeurs

Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. The menu here boasts over 100 champagne references and signature cocktails include the orange vodka-based Parisian Mule. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. M° Concorde

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

CASINO Casinos Barrière

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

Le Lucien Bar

JAZZ CLUBS

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one

Buddha Bar | BARS & WINE BARS (8th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

Le Mona Lisa

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Les Bains

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Social Club

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Medellin

This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. M° Alma-Marceau

Pachamama

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf | BARS & WINE BARS (1ST)

while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Le Bel Canto | MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS (4TH) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 77

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris HAIR SALONS Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde

Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6 ), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’OpéraLouis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Edward Limousines – Tel: 01.53.66.95.15

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° SaintPhilippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° SaintPhilippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon

Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

78 W HER E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

PARIS DISTRICTS 1 ARRONDISSEMENT st

The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT

Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT

Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT

The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT

Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Blvd Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT

Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT

7th ARRONDISSEMENT

The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT

Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT

Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

ADVERTORIAL

L’IBIS ROUGE

THE LUXURY VINTAGE BOUTIQUE This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also ﬁnd a ﬁne selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Libisrouge

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SERVICES

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

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◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

STEPHANE TERME

HEAD CONCIERGE AT RENAISSANCE PARIS ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Grand Palais

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? I highly recommend spending time on the bridges of Paris to watch the city lights. Any one of them, as all are as beautiful as each other, and with so many stories though I personally prefer the Pont Neuf. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Les Climats for the unquestionable selection of Burgundy wines. I recently discovered the Fanfan, two steps from the Arc de Triomphe, which mixes finely French and Chinese cuisine. Finally, the 110 Taillevent, which remains a safe gastronomic value. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? The Sacré Coeur basilica is a must-see monument. I recommend it because it offers one of the most beautiful views of the capital and the possibility to visit it every day until 11pm. I also suggest the Louis Vuitton Foundation and La Philharmonie de Paris, two contemporary 82 W HE R E PA R I S I J U LY 2019

Les Climats

Jardin d’Acclimatation

constructions that show how Paris is in constant motion, innovative and creative.

Theatre, a French puppet show held in the Luxembourg gardens or in the small Parc des Champs-Elysées.

If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? I would recommend the Right Bank, in constant search of novelty and creation. There are dozens of new concept stores. You can also find the main department stores on the Right Bank.

What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? The Lulu White drinking club is an “underground” cocktail bar that I highly recommend for its creations. I also like to spend time at the Très Particulier, especially outside during the summer time.

What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? A date at Place Dauphine, a summer evening, with all the history of Paris surrounding you, and a French kiss. Close your eyes and fly away…

Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? I love brunch at the Renaissance Le Parc Trocadéro. Good mood, joy and gastronomy are on the program every Sunday.

What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three childrenfriendly spots. For children I encourage discovering the new Jardin d’Acclimatation, recently renovated, it is fun for young and old. Also the Musée en Herbe that offers exhibitions dedicated to children, accessible from the age of three. Finally the Guignol

My Perfect Day 9am: Running at the Tuileries gardens then breakfast at Carette 12pm: Lunch at the Grand Coeur restaurant 3pm: Exhibitions at the Grand Palais or l’Atelier des Lumières 9pm: Dinner at Balagan

where

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Le Parc at Renaissance

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KEIRA KNIGHTLEY

LA NOUVELLE J12 UNE HISTOIRE DE SECONDES

NOUVEAU MOUVEMENT AUTOMATIQUE MANUFACTURE MONTRE EN CÉRAMIQUE HAUTE RÉSISTANCE. FABRIQUÉE EN SUISSE. GARANTIE 5 ANS.