PARIS MONTH" CITYGUIDE
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SEPTEMBER 2019
Issue N ° 308
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PARIS | CONTENTS
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Hot Dates
18
Discovering Cognac
This month’s calendar of must-see events
Curating Cognac Visit the world-famous houses of Cognac
Our top 5 things to do in the quaint town
The guide 20 SHOPPING
The latest trends and the hottest fashions 52 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 70 DINING
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 84 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and shows 94 SERVICES
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings S E P T E MBE R 2 0 19
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE
Issue N o 308
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PARIS GETS READY for the New Season
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Turn to page 34 for our Getting Ready to Dazzle photo shoot. Sophie wears Piaget emerald, diamond and marquetry earrings, and sapphire, turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamond cuff bracelet, and Lise Charmel camisole, and holds an Urban Decay Naked Reloaded eyeshadow palette. Cover Photo © Alex Fadel
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The City of Light is famous for its gorgeous monuments and its
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promenade through the city’s beautiful parks and gardens before taking you to Giverny to see Monet’s water lilies.
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We also take you on a tour of the Cognac region, taking you from one world-famous cognac house to another as well as introducing you to Parisian spots where you can taste the famous eau de vie. And in our Discovering Cognac feature we share with you our top 5 things to do
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at your next dinner party.
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For our readers who want to eat their way through the city, our Dining
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pages are bursting with excellent tables to sample. Greek, vegetarian and of course French cuisine are all on the menu this month. Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section you will find a round up of the great shows and festivals taking place in September as well as a few pop-up bars worth a visit while visiting the French capital.
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We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris. Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Septembre 2019. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito
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September
HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month
Art Show THROUGH TO 23 The exhibition Carte Blanche to Mr. and Pharrell Williams A Call to Action, held at the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques – Guimet, brings to light the tensions of today’s social, political and technological problems facing children and explores the optimism and potential of the new generation. Curated by American rapper Pharrell Williams, the show features an installation by Japanese artist Mr. with a large-scale mural, a nod to the tradition of classic European portraiture. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01 56 52 53 00 8 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
PARIS THIS MONTH
Cocktail Hour ALL MONTH Toast the town with a limited edition cocktail at Bar 8 at the Mandarin Oriental, Paris hotel. Throughout the month the bar is hosting a jungle atmosphere with four original cocktails using Absolut Elyx vodka. Try the Down to Earth or the Spicy jungle cocktail under a canopy of wild trees.
Noah-Pink Breeze photo Claire Dorn; Bar 8, photographe : Alexis Anice; La Cave d’Exception © Hotel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel; Gilded wood Hawk with Solar Disk © Laboratoriorosso, Viterbo/Italy
251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 78 88
A Moment with Wine SEPTEMBER 19
King Tut Treasure THROUGH TO 22
Spend an evening tasting a rich collection of wine with Xavier Thuizat, the talented head sommelier at the Hôtel de Crillon. Accompanied by a selection of cheese, the Exclusive Encounters with Xavier Thuizat are held in the hotel’s wine cellar, La Cave, and introduces you to 5 wines during the two-hour Wine and Cheese rendezvous. Reservations are highly recommended, as places are limited to 12.
You’re last chance to see an exceptional show taking place in the Grande Halle de La Villette. Tutankhamen, Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh celebrates the centenary of the discovery of the royal tomb and showcases a collection of 150 original objects from the tomb, 50 of which have never been exhibited outside of Egypt until now.
10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 17
211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01 40 03 75 75 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9
PARIS THIS MONTH
Trade Shows & Art Fairs SEPTEMBER 6-9 BIJORHCA
Beauty Date ALL MONTH Update your vanity case at the new Chanel beauty store. Nestled on the most glamorous avenue in the world, the Champs-Elysées, the recently inaugurated boutique is a beauty haven, showcasing the French house’s new and iconic creations, including of course Chanel N˚5. 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 75 87 20
This international, professionals only, fair is devoted to jewellery, watches, the manufactures and suppliers. Some 350 exhibitors reveal the latest trends and collections while exhibitions from individual creators, workshops and conferences round out the agenda. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 9th. www.bijorhca.com Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)
SEPTEMBER 6-9 WHO’S NEXT This leading international trade show for womenswear brings together 1200 French and international ready-to-wear brands and offers a forum for buyers, the brands, journalists and trendsetters to come together for networking, conferences, lifestyle activities and celebrations. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 5pm on the 9th. www.whosnext.com Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)
SEPTEMBER 6-10 MAISON & OBJET This is a major home décor fair, for professionals only, bringing together some 4000 brands in international interior design and lifestyle. The four sections in the Home part of the show are devoted to arts and craft pieces, luxury brands, unique decorative objects from all over the world and the contemporary lifestyle. The seven Object sectors reveal smart objects, kitchen and tableware, linens, home and fashion accessories and home fragrances. This year visitors to the show can discover the Senses Room, an olfactory and tactile experience in which the visitor is plunged into darkness and silence for 5 minutes to understand how the senses are amplified in the dark. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 10th. www.maison-objet.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte
21 AND 22 The 36th edition of the Journée Européennes du Patrimoine (European Heritage Days) is taking place this weekend with the public invited to visit and discover hidden gems that are otherwise closed off to them on any other day of the year. Visit journeesdupatrimoine.culture.gouv.fr for a list of exclusive monuments opening their doors this year.
This prestigious event is now held every year in the French capital and brings together the finest in art and antiques with some 70 galleries and art dealers coming from France and abroad. This year Bahrain is the guest of honour and its pavilion will offer a panorama of the country’s art, design, crafts and a venue devoted to pearls. The show is open from 11am until 10pm and until 6pm on the 17th. www.biennale-paris.com Grand Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th)
PFW
SEPTEMBER 15-16 FRANCE QUINTESSENCE
FROM 23
This is the place to be for tasting a wide variety of French spirits ranging from cognacs to armagnacs, Calvados, gin, vodka and more. The show explores trends, conducts food pairings with French chefs while three cocktail bars, conferences and workshops round out the agenda. The show is open from noon until 7pm on the 15th and from 11am until 6pm on the 16th. www.france-quintessence.fr www.whosnext.com Pavillon Ledoyen, 8 ave Dutuit (8th)
Paris Fashion Week takes hold of the city starting today with all our favourite brands showcasing their spring/summer 2020 collections. Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior are only some of the big name houses showing their new collections for next year’s warmer months. Be inspired, be amused, but most of all take in the extraordinary and unique vibe coursing through the city during Fashion Week, the most coveted week in fashion. 10 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
SEPTEMBER 13-17 LA BIENNALE PARIS
© Chanel; Assemblée Nationale, iStock 2019 © Generistock
Private Access
Ethnic restaurant, cocktail bar, hotel, spa. Design by Tristan Auer. Sinner sees things a little differently, and doesn’t do anything the ordinary way
FOR MORE INFORMATION contact@sinnerparis.com @sinnerparis
116 RUE DU TEMPLE, PARIS 3e T. +33 (0)1 42 72 20 00 sinnerparis.com
Feature
Curating COGNAC By Patricia Valicenti
12 W HE RE PA R I S S E P T E M B E R 2019
Opposite page: The Vendange cognac cocktail at the Le Charles bar at the Burgundy hotel This page: The inviting bar and salon at the Maison Souquet hotel (top) and a cocktail with Martell’s Blue Swift cognac (below)
T
he good earth of France has managed to work its gastronomic magic on just about everything and cognac, the unique brandy distilled in the region in and around Cognac some 450 kilometres southwest of Paris, is no exception. It was in the 17th century that Cognac began producing the world-class brandy it is known for today. The spirits of the region, perhaps because of the proximity to the sea, and perhaps because of the effects of lime in the soil on the grapes, enjoyed a unique quality and taste, one that was found nowhere else. The region exported table wine to England and Holland but the wine didn’t travel particularly well and the wine growers started distilling the wine into eau de vie, literally meaning the water of life. The first casks left for the United States in the 18th century and today the world famous brandy known as cognac is shipped to 160 countries around the world.
Photo © Julie Limont (opposite page)
Cognac received its AOC, the French Appellation of Controlled Origin in 1936, meaning that its quality is controlled by strict and permanent controls. And so it can only be distilled from grapes grown mainly in the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions as well as a few towns in the Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres. Cognac is distilled from white wine of the Ugni Blanc grape variety with, to a much lesser extent, the Colombard and Folle Blanche varieties. The distillation takes place once the fermentation of the wine is finished at the end of the year. It is important to note that cognac undergoes a double distillation and the copper pot stills, known as Charente stills, operate day and night in the distillation season, which comes to a close on March 31st, depending upon the harvest. The distiller who has ways of intervening in the process to confer upon the liquid a special touch surveys the distillation process constantly.
still on fine lees are double distilled on open fires before being placed to mature in French oak casks before entering their final blend under the supervision of the cellar master. The house’s signature VSOP has a distinct auburn colour with a golden shine. It is supple and fruity with notes of orange and peach giving off a delicate fragrance of vanilla, dried fruit and mild spices. Founded in 1715 by Jean Martell, a young merchant from the isle of Jersey who started a small, thriving business on the scenic banks of the Charente River, his humble house of Martell has grown into one of the great names of cognac. Martell was already shipping cognac by barrel to the United States in the late 18th century. Martell only distils clear wines making for refined, delicate cognacs. The house has just brought out in France its Martell Blue Swift elaborated from a VSOP cognac and aged in Kentucky bourbon casks. Round and aromatically rich, Martell Blue Swift is a harmonious cognac offering up gourmet fragrances like
The distillery of the Famille Naud emerges from the mists on the isle of Pinthiers in the region of Cognac. Master Distillers since 1923, the house distils its cognacs in traditional Charentais copper pot stills in an ancient grain mill with an authentic paddle wheel built in the 19th century. Jean-Michel Naud distils wines, which have been elaborated with precision and with his son Pierre he selects grapes of optimum maturity from the most prestigious crus of the Cognac appellation area, like the Ugni Blanc and the Colombard. The wines w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 13
Feature
Clockwise from top: The distillery of the Famille Naud on the isle of Pinthiers; The house of Camus; The pot stills at the Hennessy Le Peu site
banana, caramelised pear and vanilla, the taste is generous with notes of candied fruits and a touch of burned oak from the bourbon cask. The Blue Swift is ideal for mixing up a host of cocktails like the French 75, with the Blue Swift, champagne, fresh lemon juice and cane syrup, or the Watch the Throne made with Martell Blue Swift, red vermouth, fresh lemon juice, juice of the fleur de lys, egg white and smoked bitters.
with springtime notes of linden flower and lilac, sweet orange and spicy cloves, it is perfect for mixing up a batch of cocktails. The house has even cooked up some cocktails to moon over, like the Full Moon with Moonshadow cognac, white grape juice, tonic water, lime, ginger and orange slices and ice, of course. Founded in 1863, the family firm of Camus – five generations of the Camus family have presided over the house – distils intense cognacs. More than 15 years after the creation of the house, Cyril Camus, the fifth generation of the family, shares his passion for intense, aromatic cognacs. The Camus family possesses 188 hectares of vineyards in the highly sought-after Borderies growing region and the eaux de vie from this region, which have deep floral aromas, are used in all of the house’s blends. This year the house has brought out three new highly aromatic cognacs, the Very Special, a VSOP and an XO. And this year to celebrate its cognacs, the house has created the Shanghai Shake by Camus cognac cocktail contest, holding competitions in cities throughout the world with leading local bartenders. The grand finale is slated to take place in Shanghai on September 9th. Meanwhile, for Paris the winner was Pierrick Baudry, the bartender at the boutique hotel, Maison Souquet, who will participate in the finale.
On a new note, the House of Tigre Blanc Paris has just brought out its fourth spirit, a cognac VSOP, Moonshadow, a name in a nod to the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. The cognac is a savant blend of eaux de vie from the Fins Bois, Petite Champagne and Grand Champagne crus with the youngest eau de vie being four-years-old. Rich and aromatic
You can enjoy cognac cocktails, like the Cocktail La Castiglione made with Remy Martin XO and Rémy Martin 1738, truffle bitters and pecan syrup at the Maison Souquet in the establishment’s sumptuous bar with its winter garden and rich woodwork. Or alternatively taste one of the 10 cognacs on the bar menu.
Hennessy Le Peu site Photo © Julia Hasse
Richard Hennessy, an Irish officer in the service of the king of France, founded the venerable house of the same name in 1765. Its heady, vast ageing storehouses contain mythical eaux de vies, a genuine library full of eaux de vie. For some 250,000 casks rest here, making for the largest reserve of eau de vie destined for cognac in the world. And for an ultimate luxury cognac experience, the house has brought out its Hennessy Paradis Imperial cognac in a new crystal carafe designed by Arik Levy and a trunk replete with tasting accessories made by the master craftsmen of the house of Louis Vuitton. The Paradis Imperial, created in 2011, is one of the house’s rare cognacs, blended from extremely refined eaux de vie with only 10 from a given harvest out of 10,000 that are sufficiently elegant to be used in its blending. The selected eaux de vie are aged in the house’s Founder’s Cellars producing the cognac which is floral, smoky and spicy.
14 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
The Camus family home, Le Plessis (above). Bottles from left to right: The XO cognac from Camus; Martell’s Blue Swift cognac; Moonshadow cognac from Tigre Blanc Paris; Hennessy’s Paradis Imperial cognac in its crystal carafe designed by Arik Levy; The VSOP cognac from the Famille Naud. The landscape in the region of cognac (bottom image)
Meanwhile, if you want to test out cognac cocktails by other barmen who placed well in the Shanghai Shake by Camus contest, second place went to Auguste Krebs who mixes and shakes at the fun Calbar bar. And third place went to Wenceslas Garnier who officiates at the elegant Buddha Bar Hotel in the lounge bar Le Qu4tre.
You can also enjoy cognac and cognac cocktails at Le Charles at the Burgundy hotel, a bar devoted to Charles Baudelaire, the author of the Spleen and where there is a monumental fresco drawing inspiration from his Fleurs du Mal novel. The head bartender Jeremy Blanc proposes travel-inspired cocktails like the Vendange, which revolves around Rémy Martin 1738 cognac and absinthe.
ADDRESS
Landscape in the region of cognac Photo © BNIC-DEEPIX; Hennessy bottle © Hennessy
LE CHARLES AT THE BURGUNDY HOTEL 6 rue Duphot (1st), 01 71 19 49 11 LE QU4TRE AT THE BUDDHA BAR HOTEL 4 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 83 96 88 88 LE CALBAR 82 rue de Charenton (12th), 01 84 06 18 90 MAISON SOUQUET 10 rue de Bruxelles (9th), 01 48 78 55 55 FOR VISITING COGNAC, THE REGION AND THE COGNACPRODUCING HOUSES COGNAC TOURIST OFFICE www.tourism-cognac.com 05 45 82 10 71 LES ETAPES DU COGNAC www.cognacetapes.com w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 15
WHERE PARIS PROMOTION
MARTELL A
n extraordinary experience awaits visitors in the heart of the city of Cognac for the Maison Martell, the oldest of the great cognac houses, has opened Martell the Journey, an interactive and immersive experience for the visitor at its historic Gâtebourse site. The experience offers a unique insight into the 300-year-old house, including the legacy left by its founder Jean Martell as well as the characteristics of the good earth and the distillation and ageing processes, all of which produce the unique taste of Martell cognacs. Martell the Journey ingeniously allows visitors to map out their own discovery of the house. The Heritage pathway is richly illustrated with archive materials and traces the history and international development of the house since its founding by Jean Martell in 1715. The SavoirFaire route offers an encounter with the artisans whose specialty skills contribute to the creation
16 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
of Martell cognacs. While the Part des Anges route is a multi-sensory pathway outfitted with novel, interactive installations enabling visitors to explore cognac in an original manner. The Part des Anges or the Angel’s Share refers to the part of the volume of alcohol that evaporates during its ageing process, notably for cognacs. Visitors embark upon Martell the Journey at the home of the founder Jean Martell that is located in the courtyard of the Gâtebourse site and discover the nine generations of the Martell Family who were behind the development of the house. Visitors can then step into a spectacular circular space for a 360° immersive, interactive experience allowing them to rise above the rooftops of Cognac and view Martell landmarks or explore the region’s characteristics. The journey continues into a succession of former cognac cellars and an encounter with the artisans of the house. A winegrower,
a distiller and a cooper -all central to the fashioning of cognac - talk passionately about their work in life-size video installations. Martell the Journey uniquely conveys the sensorial appeal of cognac through an array of interactive workshops. Here visitors can discover the different colours of cognac or create their own Martell cocktail recipe. The journey winds up in the boutique for a tasting of one of the house’s three emblematic products: Martell VSOP Aged in Red Barrels, Martell Noblige or Martell Blue Swift.
Martell the Journey 16 Avenue Paul Firino Martell in Cognac Online reservations www.martell.com 05 45 36 34 98 visites@martell.com Daily from 10am to 7pm from May 2nd to October 31st
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Discovering COGNAC By Sandra Iskander
Hôtel Chais Monnet What was once a cognac warehouse is now a luxury hotel that boasts 92 rooms, a spa, bar and restaurant. The Hôtel Chais Monnet is a contemporary hotel that plays with light and very graphic design, at once paying homage to the land’s previous life with the use of wooden beams, recalling the design of a cognac cellar, and celebrating its new life, with more contemporary details. Wooden beams sit majestically alongside an inviting glass atrium, which sheds light into the space, highlighting the dawn of a new era. Located in the heart of the city, close to most of the historical cognac houses, this is a wonderful address to stay if you are hoping to visit the different houses, and are looking to pamper yourself as well.
The Hôtel Chais Monnet is also a great rendezvous for cocktail hour. Its huge barn-like bar is an ironically cosy spot for a drink. Resembling and feeling more like a bar that you would stumble upon in the mid-west in the US, with it’s imposing wooden beams, The 1838 is surprisingly very warm despite its large structure, creating an inviting ambiance to sip on local cognacs and locally handcrafted beer. 50 ave Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, 05 17 22 32 23
18 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Hennessy, Photo AlfredO PiolA; Hôtel Chais Monnet, photos Guillaume de Laubier; Bar Hôtel Chais Monnet, photo Albane de Roffignac
I
n the quiet city of Cognac, a wonderful destination for cognac connoisseurs, there is an awakening of culture and a desire to attract a new generation to the eau de vie destination. Here we share our five favourite things to see and do when in Cognac.
The Journey The Martell museum, The Journey, is an interactive exhibition taking you through the process of making cognac from the ground up. The Journey offers three visits, Heritage, SavoirFaire and Parts des Anges, with each visit taking you on a different journey, each demonstrating how cognac is made. Parts des Anges invites you to touch, smell and take in the notes that go into making the world-famous eau de vie, while the Heritage visit is a historical introduction to the Maison Martell, which was founded in 1715. And for connoisseurs, the Savoir-Faire visit is an exclusive encounter with the artisans who work on creating Martell cognacs. 16 ave Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, 05 45 36 34 65
Bar Indigo and The Journey Photos © Nicolas Larsonneau; Oeuvre Mario D’Souza at the Fondation Martell
Martell If you are an avid cognac drinker, then visiting the oldest cognac houses is de rigueur while in the city, and a highlight of taking a tour of the Martell cellars would have to be the incomparable opportunity to create your very own signature cognac. While tastings are widely popular and organised regularly, putting your stamp on a personalised bottle is quite luxurious. The bespoke experience is held in a private cellar on the property with the house’s Master Distiller onhand as well as his team, guiding you through the art of creating a cognac blend. 16 ave Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, 05 45 36 34 65 Fondation d’Entreprise Martell Supporting local and international artists, the Fondation d’Entreprise Martell organises art shows throughout the year inviting talented artists to showcase their work. Currently, and showing until the 3rd of November, L’Ombre de la Vapeur (The Shadow of Vapour) is being exhibited. In a space resembling Paris’s Atelier de Lumières and Provence’s Les Carrières de Lumières, the visual and audio installation reflects the works of Claire Bardainne and Adrien Mondot on the walls, ceiling and ground, immersing visitors in the “vapour”, with the vapour moving and reshaping with every guest’s movements. 16 ave Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, 05 45 36 33 51 Indigo Bar Make the most of the warm weather from the Indigo rooftop bar before it closes its doors for the season on the 29th of September. After visiting the Fondation d’Entreprise Martell, head to the top floor where the bar is located. Offering a panoramic view of the quaint city, the bar serves original cocktails including the Pineapple Pen, a sweet cocktail made with Martell Blue Swift and handcrafted pineapple syrup, and the Belle Marie made with lavender-infused gin, champagne and lemon. The rooftop bar also serves mocktails and a selection of sharing platters. 5th Floor 16 ave Paul Firino Martell, 16100 Cognac, 05 45 36 34 65 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 19
The Guide
SHOPPING
By Sandra Iskander
Accessories | For Her | For Him | Beauty Buys | New Openings| For Children
Step into Alber Elbaz’s new collection for Told’s (opposite page)
20 WH ER E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48
SHOPPING
Accessories
Alber is Happy One of our favourite designers, Alber Elbaz, is back after leaving French fashion house Lanvin back in 2015, albeit it for a limited time only. The muchloved designer has created Tod’s Happy Moments by Alber Elbaz, a capsule collection designed for Italian luxury brand, Tod’s, bringing us his very own take on the brand’s footwear. The collection sees the house’s iconic driving shoe get a more supple look and loafers get sneaker soles made to parade around the city in über chic comfort. - S.I. Tod’s Boutique 17 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 43 16 16
Pretty Bows A sexy collaboration is born between fashion house Viktor&Rolf and lingerie brand Aubade, bringing ladies a gorgeous collection of lingerie for the autumn/winter 2019/202 season. The capsule collection sees Viktor&Rolf’s signature bow work its way onto sexy briefs and delicate bras. Made with lace and detailed with satin, each of the 9-piece collection is available in sensual black and cheeky pink. - S.I. Aubade Boutique 23 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 42 66 53 97 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 21
SHOPPING For Her
Effortlessly Cool with Zadig & Voltaire
We All Live in a Yellow Submarine Yesterday is today’s fashion with Stella McCartney drawing inspiration from the movie Yellow Submarine, in which The Beatles starred, including of course the designer’s father, Paul McCartney. The collection, All Together Now, features pieces adorned with slogans, motifs and graphics from the movie, with messages of love, hope and a whole lot of nostalgia. - S.I.
Americas’ New York City meets France’s Paris with Zadig & Voltaire’s new autumn/winter 2019/202 collection. The vibe is casual meets chic with pieces coming together to give ladies an effortlessly sexy look. Tailored shirts, low hung leather pants and faux fur coats are key pieces of the collection, bringing sophistication to street style without compromising individuality, with each piece perfectly interchangeable, working perfectly with wardrobe basics, allowing every lady to mix and match to her style. - S.I. Zadig & Voltaire Boutique 244 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 88 29 50
Stella McCartney Boutique 114-121 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01 47 03 03 80
Inspired by her latest travels to exotic Morocco, jewellery designer Camille Enrico has combined her savoir-faire of making jewellery with the art of knitting, creating original pieces for her autumn/winter 2019/2020 collection. Drawing from Berber jewellery, Camille has given rings, cuff bracelets and earrings more depth in texture with the use of metallic threads, creating a sophisticated contrast between the metal of the pieces and the thread weaving in and out of the jewellery. - S.I. Camille Enrico Boutique Atelier 3 Impasse Gomboust (1st), 09 81 97 43 73 22 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Zadig & Voltaire © Dan & Corina Lecca
Knitted Metal
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SHOPPING For Him
An Etro Dream Etro takes gentlemen on a dreamy escapade to where fashion knows no boundaries with 3D detailing, silk threads and embroidery all taking centre stage within the house’s autumn/winter 2019/2020 collection. Foliage, checkered print, warm reds and coral hues come together for a daringly colourful collection for gentlemen to mix and match in the cooler months, adding a punch of colour to neutral basics.. - S.I. Etro Boutique 66 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 07 09 40
Flight Time The house of Wempe has brought out this year a limited edition pilot’s watch, the Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic Aviator Watch CW4. The timepiece carries on the house’s grand aeronautical tradition for these aviator watches date from the 1940s and were known as observation watches, highly precise timepieces made for pilots. This model, limited to 100 pieces, recalls the original design and is outfitted with a stainless steel 41mm case and a brown vintage leather strap imparting upon the watch a rugged and elegant appearance. The CW4 aviator watch continues the chronometric tradition established by the family-owned house of Wempe and for this model the company is using one of its own in-house manufacture movements that it designs and fashions in its workshops in Glashütte in the German state of Saxony. The self-winding CW4 manufacture calibre brings together traditional watchmaking skills with ultramodern technology and when fully wound has a power reserve of 90 hours. - P.V. Wempe 16 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 60 21 77 24 W HER E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
11, boulevard de la Madeleine Paris 1er
& ailleurs sur arche.com
8, rue des Francs Bourgeois Paris 3ème
SHOPPING For Her
Spa Time By Sandra Iskander
Where to wind down in the fashion capital? Spa Bowmann is where you go to de-stress and awaken your senses with the Black Orchid Sublime Signature Massage. The one-hour massage works to enhance circulation and relax you using a black orchid-scented body oil that leaves your skin feeling silky smooth. Hotel Bowmann 99 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 40 08 00 10 If you have exposed your precious skin to the sun a little too much this summer then make sure you book yourself in for the Vitalité du Corps Valmont treatment. Using the skincare brand’s Body 24 Hour cream, the new anti-aging moisturising body cream, the treatment works to penetrate your skin, quenching its thirst with much-needed TLC. The treatment doubles as a relaxing massage, leaving you feeling relaxed and most importantly with silky smooth skin. The treatment is available at the Valmont spa at the Meurice hotel in Paris, and if you are lucky enough to be heading to Saint-Tropez for some more fun in the sun, you can book yourself in for the treatment at the Valmont spa in the gorgeous 5-star Château de la Messardière hotel. Meurice Spa 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77 Château de la Messardière Spa 2 route de Tahiti, 83990 Saint-Tropez, 04 94 56 76 80
Our TOP 3 Products to Treat Yourself to a Spa Day… at Home
Rituals’s Matcha Tea & Bamboo Scrub From The Ritual of Chadō collection, give your skin new life with a good old fashioned scrub that will leave you with baby smooth skin. Rituals Boutique 52 rue de Passy (16th), 09 66 81 10 67
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Braun’s Silk Expert Pro 5 Thanks to its intense pulsed light technology you will be left hair-free in weeks. Available at Darty 8 ave des Ternes (17th), 08 92 01 10 10
Lothantique’s Noir de Feu Scented Candle Set the mood for a moment of relaxation with scents of jasmine. www.lothantique.com
SHOPPING
Accessories
A Spritz of Perfume FOR EVERY MOOD By Sandra Iskander
1 - A floral bouquet of joy courtesy of Dior’s Joy eau de parfum intense. 326 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 20 99 56 2 - Courrèges’s Wild Ocean for him is a beach getaway in a bottle with notes of seawater and sand. 40 rue François Ier (8th), 01 53 67 30 00 3 - A melange of white strawberries and marigold bring a whole lot of sunshine with Daisy Marc Jacobs Sunshine edition. Available at Sephora, 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50
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4 - Eisenberg takes you on an exotically sweet voyage with its Secret II, Jardin des Sens eau de parfum with rich notes of plum, jasmine and vanilla. Available at Marionnaud 5 - L’Homme Lacoste Intense for him is a spicy mix of rhubarb, ginger and pepper. Available at Marionnaud, 110 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 42 93 07 63
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Dior © Dior; Chanel © Chanel
6 - Chanel’s 1957, from the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection of perfumes, is an olfactive ode to the year Gabrielle Chanel was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion. The celebratory scent envelops you in 8 notes of white musk. 40 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 49 96 46 00 7 - The sisters behind Huda Beauty, Huda and Mona Kattan, have launched themselves in the world of perfume and the result is a collection of 4 scents including Citrus 08, a refreshing mix of Italian bergamot and pink grapefruit with a heart of rose. Available at Sephora
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SHOPPING
New Openings
New to the Right Bank Ten years after the opening of the first store, Arty Dandy has finally opened a second branch, this time on the Right Bank. The Left Bank favourite has brought its flair to the Marais with the same colourful collections all found under the one stylish roof. Jewellery, perfume and home décor objects are all found here as well as limited edition collections from various luxury brands such as Christofle.- S.I.
Suited to Gentlemen Specialising in casual and chic menswear, Suitsupply recently opened its flagship store in Paris on the chic Rue de la Paix. Ready-to-wear pieces for day and night as well as a tailoring service make this house a perfect shop stop for all gentlemen looking to update their wardrobe. - S.I. Suitsupply Boutique 18i rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 86 26 67 37
Arty Dandy Boutique 46 rue de Turenne (3rd), 09 81 82 28 88
Galeries Lafayette has just revealed its new home décor department and it is as inviting as inspiring as you would want a furniture and home accessories space to be. Giving shoppers plenty of ideas on how to give their home a makeover, the new space is spilling with great pieces. There is a whole area dedicated to candles, the second floor is lit with lighting fixtures for every style, and there are gorgeous tableware and kitchen items every home should have. The new space also boasts The Conran Shop and furniture by Cinna, AMPM and Absolument Maison. S.I. Galeries Lafayette Maison 35 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 28 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
First Boutique in Paris… ...for sisters Ece Ege and Ayse Ege’s upmarket fashion brand Dice Kayek. The boutique is a chic space designed with simplicity, letting the house’s clothes do all the talking and highlighting the structured pieces in an airy ambiance. - S.I. Dice Kayek Boutique 15 rue Saint-Benoît (6th)
Arty Dandy © Arty Dandy Panorama; Blanche Patine at Galeries Lafayette Maison
A New Home
GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN THE BIGGEST DEPARTMENT STORE** 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS OPEN EVERY DAY *La destination Mode. ** La Référence des Grands Magasins. Ouvert tous les jours. 44 GL 552 116 329 RCS PARIS - PHOTO RETOUCHÉE
SHOPPING
For Children
Kisses in the Rain Prepare your little ones for the rain with these cute rain boots from Aigle. Collaborating with designer Mathilde Cabanas, famous for her signature heart, the boots are covered in cute hearts and kisses (bisous). - S.I. Aigle Boutique 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01 42 96 12 65
Men in Black Nothings gets kids more excited about getting dressed than their favourite movie characters, and this season Men in Black does the trick. Paul Smith has created a limited edition collection of pieces inspired by the characters from the action movie. A t-shirt with an alien and of course a black suit as worn by the secret agents make up the collection as well as a tailored shirt with fun buttons in the shape of the agents’ sunglasses. The collection also includes socks, necktie and an iPhone cover. - S.I. Available at Le Bon MarchÊ
Kenzo Kids Gets Physical High-end fashion brand Kenzo has just released its Aktion collection for kids aged from three months to 14 years old. From the basketball court to the Alps, Kenzo has the kids covered in looking good while exercising. Loud colours and the Kenzo logo dress the collection, which includes shorts, t-shirts and ski suits. - S.I. Available at Galeries Lafayette 30 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
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An unforgettable shopping experience at La Vallée Village – Paris In a charming open-air setting, discover more than 110 fashion and lifestyle boutiques with savings of at least 33%*. Open seven days a week, 40 minutes from the center of Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks.
YOUR EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS**: · Complimentary roundtrip from Paris with the Shopping Express® coach service when you book online at LaValleeVillage.com/ shoppingexpress using the code ‘LVWHERE’. · VIP Card for a further 10% reduction on the Village price in six boutiques of your choice · Complimentary Hands-free Shopping for an effortless experience
#LaValleeVillage
· A refreshing treat at Amorino Gelato
*off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. **upon presentation of this page at our Welcome Center until 30/09/19 © La Vallée Village 2019
07/19
SHOPPING
Home Décor
CHIC Cuisine By Sandra Iskander
Dress up your kitchen with these must-have plates and accessories.
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1 - Degrenne x Starck Available at Degrenne, 45 rue Saint-Placide (6th), 01 42 79 98 18 2 - Habitat 8 rue du Pont Neuf (1st), 01 53 00 99 88 3 - Haviland 6 rue Royale (8th), 01 40 06 91 08 4 - Le Creuset 14 rue Tronchet (8th), 09 64 44 73 12 5 - Ralph Lauren 173 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 44 77 77 00 6 - Serax Available at Le BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09 77 40 14 00 32 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
3: © Arièle Rozowy
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SHOPPING
Staying Connected
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TECH Toys
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By Sandra Iskander Stay connected at play and at work with these latest products.
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5 1 - Saint Laurent x Bang & Olufsen’s Beoplay A1 portable Bluetooth speakers, 213 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 76 70 90 00 2 - Apple’s new iPod Touch, 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 98 09 00 3 - Motorola’s Moto G7 smartphone, Available at Fnac, 109 rue Saint Lazare (9th), 08 25 02 00 20 4 - Google’s Nest Hub, Available at Fnac, 109 rue Saint Lazare (9th), 08 25 02 00 20 5 - Thomson’s Z3 notebook, Available at Leclerc, 191 blvd MacDonald (19th), 01 40 38 66 10 6 - Tritton’s ARK 200 Bluetooth headphones with microphone, Available at Fnac, 109 rue Saint Lazare (9th), 08 25 02 00 20 w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 33
SHOPPING Fashion
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Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Carine Loeillet Make-Up: Sarah Atallah of Agence Aurélien Hair Stylist: Júnior Queirós (using L’Oréal Pro) Manicurist: Fanny Santa Rita of Agence Aurélien Model: Sophie Gordon of Métropolitan Special thanks to the Shangri-La Hotel Paris
Getting Ready to Dazzle Louis Vuitton diamond and spinel necklace and earrings Lise Charmel camisole Christian Louboutin mascara w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35
Harry Winston platinum and diamond bracelet and earrings RĂŠvĂŠlation Charme bralet Christian Louboutin Velvet Matte lipstick 36 W H ER E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
de Grisogono rose gold and diamond earrings, ring and watch Lise Charmel camisole Sephora Multitasker brush and Sun Disk bronzing powder
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Boucheron diamond and onyx necklace and ring Antigel Ă Deux camisole Lululemon leggings Christian Dior bag Dior Addict Lip Maximiser
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Chanel Joaillerie diamond bracelet and ring Lise Charmel robe Lululemon leggings Louboutin Rouge-Louboutin nail polish
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Fred yellow gold and diamond cuff bracelet and ring Lise Charmel camisole Nars Multi-Use gloss Tarte Hotel Heiress Amazonian clay matte waterproof bronzer
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Piaget ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond cuff bracelet Lise Charmel robe Louis Vuitton bag Lululemon leggings Christian Louboutin luminous ink liner Dior Addict Lip Maximisers in 013, 009 and 004 Nars Multi-Use Gloss in Working Girl, Relentless and Star Babe
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Address Book
SHOPPING
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),
01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Victorinox - 2 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.44.52.64. M° Rue du Bac Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine
BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois
(4th), 01.42.71.88.29. M° Saint-Paul Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. M° Opéra Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal
BOOKS & MUSIC Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),
01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde
CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20.
M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Bernardaud | HOME 42 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49.
M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M°Madeleine Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.34.19. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th), 01.43.27.88.42. M° Sèvres - Babylone Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.43.25.96.11. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries
DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville
Jean Perzel | HOME
Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette
La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,
01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. M° Porte Maillot Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. M° Corvisart One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin
EYE WEAR GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V
JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac
Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),
01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries
FABRICS: COUTURE Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde
HOME Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde
Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.
M° Concorde Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.53.10.00.81. M° Mabillon Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. M° Madeleine
SHOPPING
Address Book
JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie
Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.86.60.60. M° Opera Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal
Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde
Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V
Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.97. M° Tuileries
Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),
01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.60.58.39 M° Concorde
MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.43.03.70. M° Concorde Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard
SHOES
LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde
LUGGAGE AND BAGS Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse
Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43.
M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. M° Sèvres - Babylone Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34. M° Mabillon Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V
Angela Caputi Giuggiu | JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V
Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01.57.40.94.05. M° Saint-Paul
Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.
M° Opéra
Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64. M° Pyramides Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68. M° Saint-Paul J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Perús - 83 rue de Turenne (3rd), 06.19.32.75.29. M° Chemin Vert Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde
Repeat Cashmere | CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 43
LUXURY MAP
Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
••
BO
APUC
DES C
CA CIN
RUE
PU ES
’OP
ÉR
A
• De Fursac
•
Birkenstock
DE
L
Acaba •
RA
• ier An Lu na do Riv ab ka t rie lle Ge pp er t
E
E NU
É ’OP
• Kam’s
RUE RICHELIEU Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois
R
• •
•
•
•
•
KI
RUE DU LOUVR E
Bonpoint IRO OU
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto
Hartford
’AB
•
Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites
ED
Galerie Véro-Dodat
Christian Louboutin
Place des Victoires
PS
RU
by Terry Xavier Lust
Galerie Vivienne
•
RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM
•
Palais Royal
• • • • • • • •
Pie rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey
Musée du Louvre
RUE VIVIENNE
• •
•D
id
RUE RICHELIEU
RUE DE VALOIS
• • •
ES
PALAIS ROYAL
RUE DE RIVOLI
DD
UE
RUE DE LA FEUILLADE
44 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
AR
RUE DES PYRAMIDES
Galerie de Valois
15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
EN
L DE
•Cotélac
AV
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
OPÉRA Kusmi Tea
AV
•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil
•
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ
Opéra Garnier
•
Galerie de Montpensier
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
EV
INES
UL
RUE DE RIVOLI
NE
•Christian Dior •Clergerie
FreyWille
Printemps du Louvre
RUE DE LA PA IX
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
•Aésop
•
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Vendôme
•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire
•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous
Vivienne • Westwood
SHOP STOP
Place
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 / www.aizea-paris.com
ONORÉ
Carrousel du Louvre
RUE S A IN T -H
The Kooples •
LEI
Manoush
AïZEA
DE
Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •
•
•
ONORÉ
Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •
TUILERIES
RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Delvaux •David Morris
RUE S A IN T -H
Goyard •
• Lipault
MA
R
Chopard
E
•Dubail
T
LA
RU E CA ST IG LI ON
•
Marella
•Chanel Chanel
RUE SAINT- HONOR É
SHOP STOP
RUE TRONC HET
•Eres • Swarovski
Église de la Madeleine
• UE D
RU E CA MB ON
Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •
MADELEINE
DE
Dior U P H O
Max&Moi•
16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.
•Pucci
Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•
The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara
•
VD
WEMPE
•
RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN
• Oliver Grant
BL
RUE DE RIVOLI
Jeu de Paume
Jardin des Tuileries
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
CONCORDE
Musée de l’Orangerie
•
Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Sartore Miu Miu
Burberry
•
•G
Place de
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
SHOP STOP
Aïzea
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards. w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 45
LUXURY MAP
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
AB OÉT
Philippine Janssens •
IE
• Christie’s
AVE
EL AB EL IE
SAINT-AUGUSTIN
UÉP
NORÉ
ÉS
OÉT
E
CÉR
AB
RU
S
G
NORÉ
RB HE ES AL DM AR EV UL BO
L ’A R C A
S DE
RUE D
ROYAL
T H U R IN
Église de la Madeleine
•
Marella
• Zwilling E SÈZE
•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français Chaumet •
RUE TRONCHET
Dior
MA
•
E
AP
INES
• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite
INE
Omega•
UC
APUC
SC
S
DES C
DE
Hackett •
RD
RUE
EVA
Vendôme
UL
Place
•
Tommy Hilfiger
BO
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
EIN
F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el
DEL
•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega
IG LI O N E
•Eres •Swarovski
RUE D
Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara
S
MADELEINE
• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •
T H U R IN
LE VILLAGE
ES MA
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO
ES MA
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
RUE D R
LE VILLA GE ROYA L
LA
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
RINS
•
RUE DE
Oliver Grant
DE
RUE DU MONT-THABOR
ATHU
AVE NU E GA BR IEL
DES M
U
SQUIE RUE PA
•
Burberry
RD
R U E CA ST
Crockett &Jones
VA
Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• •
’A N J O
Janssens & Janssens
ULE
•
• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
RUE D
•
RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN
Capel
BO
Valentino •
Jardin des Tuileries
•
RUE
RUE D
U FAU
INE
BOUR
TOR
UÉP
D ’A S
RUE DE SURÈNE
CONCORDE
’
RG
ROQ
RUE
Vuarnet
Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior
ED
O AST
RUE
G SAI
INE RU
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
La Perla
MANN
RU
IE
BA
•
••
•
R D H A U SS
IE
SA
M CA
ROQ
NT-HO
OÉT
IL
S
•
RUE ROYALE
• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •
B O U LE VA
RU
ESN
RUE
US
RUE D’ANJOU
Lanvin
IL
IL
RE
• Marina
ESN
IE
SA
OM
OÉT
ES
RU E DE DU RA
•• •
Ch
46 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
OM
• •
t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris Lanvin
RUE DE RIVOLI
14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com
ED
• Jitrois • Saint Laurent • Boucheron • Givenchy Alessi • • Hermès
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Place de la Concorde
Yamamoto
This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.
RU
•55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli • Hogan • Leonard Paris
Roger Vivier • Valentino • Heurgon • Djula • René Caovilla • Chanel • Tod’s • Cartier
• Yohji
LAULHÈRE
MIR
RUE D’AGU ESSEA U
CROCKETT & JONES
SHOP STOP
ESN
IÈV
SHOP STOP
14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com
E ED
• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• Christian Louboutin • Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •
OM
TH
Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
MIR
E ED
EN
•
3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with Villiers 2, a genuine derby boot from the Hand Grade Collection. Available in the colorful Beechnut Burnished Calf or classic Black Calf.
RU
Caron
th
MIR
EP
•
AVENUE DE MARIGNY
RU
E ED
ED
In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
É
RU
Pierre Cardin
UE
SS
RU
•
JANSSENS & JANSSENS
EN
CA
Gringoire Joaillier
Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe
Daniel Levy
AV
L DE
CIER
AB
UE
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
EN
PER
EL
•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • • AV
NUE
RU
•
MIROMESNIL
• Sothys
EL
Galeries •Bartoux
RU
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
ES
SHOP STOP
w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 47
LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées - Montaigne
ISTO
Kenzo
•
De Grisogono • Ellie Saab
U CEA
AV
R MA
•
•
RUE
Christofle •
PIE
R
Altan Bottier
•
RE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • E G Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• AVE De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto OILL A E Wolford • RBEUF • •Balmain Berluti ALMA MARCEAU • •Courrèges Majestic 38 Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E Repetto • R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE Akris Chanel • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren ••• Chloé • Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
DU B
OCCA
DOR
RUE FR
ANÇO
IS 1 ER
E V Audemars ORG
OT EN AV
WA
• Marionnaud Paris
EV
•Stefano Ricci
RUE
Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer
Lacoste • •Hermès Omega• • AVE Bvlgari • Dubail • Zegna GE NUE
RUE
SHOP STOP
• GrandOptical • Bulgari
RUE
DE B
ERR
I
Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie
• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany • Galeries RUE L Lafayette
• Dior •
RU
ED
AB
OÉT
RUE DE PONTHIEU
11 rue Lincoln - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 63 77 59 www.altan-bottier.com
EN
• Creed
• Swarovski
• •
ORG
IE
• Cartier
Montblanc
GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple
•
Armani Collezioni
ERB
UE
UE
U UE EN
U
CEA
PIER
RE 1 ER DE S
E
RUE BALZAC
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
NUE
E AV
•
CH
• Milady
AR
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NU
AVE
CEA
U
LLOT
•
AV
SANO
Hugo Boss
MA R
RUE
E BAS
JEAN GIRAUDOUX
RUE D
HO
ND
E
N
AVE
UE
A EDL
ALILÉ
N
FRI
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CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE
Publicis Drugstore •
RUE G
NA
EM AR CEA
NA
D’IÉ
AHO
DE
NUE
AVE
Maison Baccarat
AV
AV EN U
E
AC M
NUE AVE
ALILÉ
Place des États-Unis
RUE DE CHAI
Superb quality, fine craftsmanship and personalisation are the hallmarks of this house of made-to-measure shoes for both men and women. The house creates, as well, a fine line of ready-to wear models among them derbies, moccasins and sneakers. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm.
NA
D’IÉ
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
NUE
AVE
M NUE
AVENUE DE WAGRAM
DOUX
RUE G
SHOP STOP
ALTAN BOTTIER
AVE
RUE JEAN GIRAU
57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com
O
AVENUE KLÉBER
Fabio Caviglia•
BERETTA GALLERY
UG
N
AVENUE KLÉBER
Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.
Arc de Triomphe
H
LAUR
FOC
RUE
RN
NUE
A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H
CA
AVE
AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE
SHOP STOP
IE
UC
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LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara
RU
EJ
EA
NG
OU
JO
N
EJ EA NG OU JO N
1ER KLIN RAN UE F N E AV
AVE
NUE
FRA
Zadig & Voltaire
Dammann • •Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel
•
AVEN
UE M
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
LT EVE OOS D.R
Grand Palais
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RU
ALBERT
48 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
COURS
38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com
NFÉRENCE
Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.
PORT DE LA CO
MAJESTIC 38
ELT
Elie Saab • ROOSEV D. IN NKL
•Adidas
ATIG
NON
LUXURY MAP Vendôme
Gare Saint-Lazare
SHOP STOP
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E
RUE SAINT-LAZARE
•
BOU
LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet
INS
CH
OY EM
VIGN
AUR
ON
Exaltation
•
ES CR
I
AR D VI
R U E ÈD OU
•
•
BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES
•
• • • IKKS
Rossignol
DA
Bally Hackett Omega
IS
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RU
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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray N H Dunhill C O Corthay Guerin • U B Y Cartier • • Christophe ED AM RU • OLNE Piaget EC • Diesel V RU • Hugo Boss E Maître Parfumeur • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo X • Van et Gantier IWC • PA I Dinh • • DE LA ••Fred Alexander McQueen • • UE •Goralska Cartier Emporio Armani R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo Bvlgari •Daum • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T EVA
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
AI
D’
ON
AN
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TIN
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SO
S DE ES ED RU
RO TRU
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MI
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SA
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FreyWille •
ON OR
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ÈSE
-H
RU
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NT
RA
JUI 29
CH
LLE
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D’A E RU
ET H
AI
RU
• Astier de Villatte
•
Ecco
RU
ES É
• Vilebrequin
RU
I
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OL
OR
IV
ON
LG
-H
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NT
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Sarah Lavoine •
PY
AI
ED
OC
IN
SA
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MI
RU
RU
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LA
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Missoni
•Frank Namani
PYRAMIDES
RU
EC
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E
É
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AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
• Heschung •Christian Dior •Clergerie Penhaligon’s • Fragonard• •
OR
RU
ON
41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr
-H
AS
TI
NT
At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !
BO
RU
GL
AI
ACABA
HA
• Jovoy
T-R
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ES
NE
RU
•
IÉR
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RU
EM ÉH
UL
É
RU
E
OR
SHOP STOP
• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty
E
•Gant • •
Tommy Hilfiger
•
L’Occitane
OPÉRA
Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc
RU
R
• J.M. Weston
•
• Max&Moi
RU
Golfino • •Loding
ES
40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com
EO
•
Sephora
RU
Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE
-G INT
INS
•
Mario Dessuti•
Église de la Madeleine
GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN
Opéra Garnier
Fragonard
RUE
MADELEINE
GE
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
CAUM
RUE
HUR
RUE BOUDREA U
N
GOD
OT D
RUE
Sabre • Paraboot•
ARTI
ON TR E RU
MAT
ER
DES
UB EA
SHOP STOP
RUE
D
HUR
AN
MAT
GR
DES
Galeries Lafayette Coupole
LE
RUE
CE
T
RUE
E
Galeries Lafayette Homme
IBE
AD
ET
RU
ED
RC
HAVRE-CAUMARTIN
P R O V EN
RU E JO UB ER
ADOR
Guerlain •
’A EL
RUE DE
VICTOIRE
MOG
Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût
RUE MOG ADOR
E D E LA
Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T
RU
1 rue Volney - Paris 2nd Tel: +33(0) 1 42 61 08 89 www.corthay.com
Galeries du Diamant •
Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant
CORTHAY Savoir-faire, knowledge and French heritage are the hallmarks of contemporary shoemaker Corthay. The house was founded in 1990 by master craftsman Pierre Corthay who was honoured with the Maître d’Art distinction by the French Minister of Culture. The Maison Corthay embodies French knowhow in the art and craft of bootmaking be it inside its Parisian workshop or in its own manufacture in the heart of the Mauges region of France.
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LUXURY MAP
Saint-Germain SHOP STOP
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JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more...
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18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com
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PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.
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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !
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Kate Lee
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In the heart of Le Marais, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more... 19 rue de Bretagne, Paris - 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 44 54 06 26 www.jlcopticien.com
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w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 51
The Guide
ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti
La Biennale Paris art fair unfolds beneath the glass cupola of the Grand Palais (page 57) 52 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
Photo © La Biennale Paris 2018, Photographe: Florent Drillon
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Francis Bacon, Triptych, 1970, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra © The Estate of Francis Bacon /All rights reserved / Adagp, Paris and DACS, London 2019 © The Estate of Francis Bacon. All rights reserved. DACS/Artimage 2019. Photo: Hugo Maertens; Henri Decaisne, Portrait de Maria Malibran-Garcia dans le rôle de Desdémone, 1830, huile sur toile, Paris, musée Carnavalet Photo © Musée Carnavalet / Roger-Viollet
Exhibitions
Reading Bacon The Centre Pompidou is devoting a retrospective to one of the major artists of the 20th century, the Irish-born British figurative painter Francis Bacon. Entitled Bacon. En Toutes Lettres (Bacon, in Arts and Letters), it brings together his paintings from 1971 to his last works in 1992. Literature takes centre stage in the exhibition, which wends through six rooms in which extracts of texts drawn from the artist’s library, including works by Nietzsche, Conrad and Eliot, are read out loud. Bacon’s personal library contained over 1000 works and Bacon considered literature to be an important stimulus for his imagination, that it inspired in him a “general atmosphere”. The exhibition focuses on the last two decades of his artistic production and brings together 60 paintings including 12 triptychs as well as a series of portraits and self-portraits emanating from public and private collections. - P.V. Showing from September 11th through to January 20th Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33
Romantic Paris A vast panorama of Paris in the Romantic period is being played out at the Petit Palais covering the years between the fall of Napoleon I (circa 1815) and 1848. The show brings together some 600 works including paintings, sculptures, costumes, objects and furniture all plunging the visitor into the artistic, cultural and political turbulence of the time. The visitor is literally immersed in the emblematic neighbourhoods of Paris during this period, the Tuileries, the Palais Royal, the Nouvelle-Athènes neighbourhood, home to George Sand, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Victor Hugo and the Grands Boulevards with their theatres. Exceptional works of art and objects are presented throughout the show including paintings by Delacroix, Ingres and Chassériau. An entire room is devoted to the taste for medieval times during this period when Victor Hugo’s celebrated novel Notre-Dame de Paris revived interest in the dark ages. - P.V. Showing through to September 15th Avenue Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 53
Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS
Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Tel: 01 40 11 96 38
www.olwenforest.com
Paul Aïzpiri, 14 Juillet à Paris, 150 x 150 cm
Impressionnist, Modern & Contemporary Art Modern Masters : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck Contemporary Artists : Aïzpiri, Cassigneul, Chen Jiang-Hong, Tom Christopher, Lorenzo Fernandez, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa 18, avenue Matignon 75008 Paris M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 54 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2 019
An intriguing exhibition is unfolding at the Fondation Groupe EDF inviting the visitor into a convivial and lively experience spread out over three floors. Entitled Coup de Foudre, or Love at First Sight, the show brings together the works and narration of two artists, Fabrice Hyber and Nathalie Talec, and in which the visitor is drawn into an immersive experience as the protagonist in a series of stories. Paintings, costumes, drawings, projections and furniture bring the visitor into a world in which everything is geared towards love at first sight. The space on the ground floor, entitled The Encounter, opens up with a ballroom and the show is designed to provoke all kinds of emotions ranging from surprise, shock, pleasure, fear, joy, the unpleasant and the pleasant. The visitor is invited to use a wide array of objects made available to them or to try on a costume and visit the show wearing a new look. - P.V. Showing through to October 20th 6 rue Récamier (7th), 01 40 42 35 35
Cadavres exquis, HyberTalec, techniques mixtes, fondation EDF, 2019
An Exhibition Experience
MAJEUR! AT
G A L E R I E
12 Photo © Thierry Malty - Design Alexandre Reynes
TH
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PARCOURS
DE LA CÉRAMIQUE
ET DES ARTS DU FEU
S E PT E M B E R 1 0 T O O C T O B E R 3 1 , 2 0 1 9 2 4 , R U E D E BEAUNE, 75007 PARIS
W W W. G A L E R I E - VA U C L A I R . C O M
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions
A highly original exhibition presented by the city’s fashion museum, the Palais Galliera, is unfolding off-site at the Musée Bourdelle. Entitled Back Side - Fashion from Behind, the show focuses on clothing as seen from behind and addresses our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view while questioning the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs. The back in fashion can range from the majestic train of a court gown to the sensuality of a plunging backline. This exhibition of clothing and accessories presents over 100 pieces from the 18th century up to the present day from the collections of the Palais Galliera as well as a selection of film extracts and photographs. The items on display are intriguingly juxtaposed with the sculptures of the great sculptor of the turn of the 20th century, Antoine Bourdelle, enabling the visitor to have a different look on the powerful muscular backs and slender outlines of his sculptures. - P.V. Through to November 17th 18 rue Antoine-Bourdelle (15th), 01 49 54 73 73
Where Worlds Collide A divining horn from Nigeria, a statue of Ptah-Sokar Osiris from Ancient Egypt, and a ceremonial statuette of an ancestor from Melanesia are just some of the works to discover at the Parcours des Mondes, the international show devoted to the tribal arts. This journey into the diversity of the arts of Africa, the Americas, Asia and Oceania offers a showcase for exceptional pieces from dozens of galleries and exhibitors from around the world while featuring thematic exhibitions ranging from a show at the Galerie Alain Bovis bringing together ancient objects from Africa, Asia and Oceania filled with obscure or magical powers to a show presented by Mingei Japanese Arts devoted to masterpieces in bamboo. The exhibitions are hosted in and by art galleries throughout the Beaux-Arts quarter of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood. - P.V. Map and list of galleries and venues at www.parcours-des-mondes.com From September 10th through to September 15th 56 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
Jeanloup Sieff, Hilde, Hervé Léger dress, Paris, Dépêche Mode, 1995 © Estate of Jeanloup Sieff; Alexis Renard Funerary mask | Indonesia, Java or Philippines, 800 – 1200 Gold | 6.5 x 14 cm (maximum) Published in Shades, Lines, Colors and Letters, Alexis Renard, 2019 nÅã 12 © François Mallet
Back to Back
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Exhibitions
Offerings of a Lifetime An intriguing exhibition is underway at the Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac exploring the tradition of paper offerings, known as zhizha, burned for the dead to have their material comfort in the other world. These ephemeral and realistic replicas illustrate the idea, firmly fixed in Taiwanese culture, of the mutual dependence between the living and their ancestors. The exhibition, entitled Palace Paradise, showcases the art and craft of two papermaking workshops in Taiwan, Hsin-Hsin and Skea. The pathway of the show begins with the house, home wares and food, which are among the first funerary offerings. A second section entitled Shopping Paradise is devoted to luxury and new technologies like smartphones equipped with special paradise applications. The final stop is a section revolving around ancestor worship and the hungry ghosts. - P.V.
© musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, photo Léo Delafontaine, Photographe : Léo Delafontaine. Biennale photo Florent Drillon
Showing through to October 27th 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01 56 61 70 00
Being at the Biennale The Biennale des Antiquaires continues to embody a world of refinement, elegance and style, and the prestigious event, now called La Biennale Paris, and held every year in the French capital, brings together quite simply the best of the best beneath the gleaming glass cupola of the Grand Palais, turning the venue into an ephemeral museum. The Biennale takes us on a journey into worlds beyond our very own with singular objects, art works, ornaments and a host of exhibitors. This year the show is opening a new section called New Talents bringing together some 12 art dealers and creators from France and abroad who have been established for 10 years or less. Bahrain is the guest of honour this year and its pavilion will offer a panorama of the country’s art, design and crafts as well as a venue dedicated to pearls. A major and monumental work by the Venezuelan artist Carlos Cruz-Diez is also being exhibited. - P. V. From September 13th through to September 17th, from 11am until 10pm and until 6pm on the 17th. Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill (8th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 57
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Parks and Gardens
The Great Outdoors Right in Paris By Patricia Valicenti
The Parc de Bagatelle, part of the City of Paris network of parks and found in the Bois de Boulogne, offers a beautiful and bucolic promenade into a world of themed floral gardens, ponds, bridges, grottoes, waterfalls, an orangery and encounters with peacocks. The park houses one of the finest rose gardens in France with over 1200 varieties and where an international rose competition has been held since 1907. While the park is known for its roses, it also houses a garden dedicated to irises, a pond filled with water lilies and lotus, a market garden and a fine collection of clematis. Other highlights include a belvedere in the park offering a spectacular view, waterfalls, a 19th century Chinese pagoda and an orangery facing the rose garden. Meanwhile, refreshing and at times educational strolls are always on the agenda in the French capital. The Jardin des Plantes has been open to the public for over 400 years and was established in 1626. Within the extensive grounds filled with myriad tree, plant and flower species are two “secret” gardens, one is devoted to temperate plants and the other to alpine plants, a charming spot whose entrance is hidden inside the temperate plant garden. Other highlights include the rose garden and the iris garden and by appointment you can visit the eco-garden, which shows the plants that would naturally inhabit Paris and the Paris basin. For some more wild adventures, head to the Parc Zoologique de 58 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
Paris in the Bois de Vincennes. The zoological park showcases in 16 natural environments 1000 animals including birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 194 different species. It is a highly diversified collection ranging from predators to colourful birds and a host of frog and lizard species. This year the park is celebrating the 5th anniversary of its major renovation and the public establishment, which belongs to the Museum d’Histoire Naturelle (France’s National History Museum) also engages in research, the dissemination of information and participates in conservation programmes. The majority of the animals in the park were born in captivity and this summer visitors can discover some of the five new species that are slated to join the park throughout the year. The South American fur seal has been welcomed into the Patagonia zone, colourful red coatis can now be viewed in the AmazonGuyana zone and the not to be missed bat-eared fox is in the Africa biozone. And don’t miss the park’s giraffes and the baby giraffe.
Photo © Paris Tourist Office - Photographe : Amélie Dupont; Photo © MNHN-FG Grandin
T
he parks and gardens of Paris offer an exhilarating open-air way of wending through the city. And with over 400 parks and gardens, the French capital is one of the most wooded capitals in Europe. There are formal gardens, bucolic gardens and educational ones, too, with the botanical gardens right in the heart of town and the zoological gardens nestled on the eastern edge of town, offering a gateway to the Bois de Vincennes, one of the two great woods, along with the Bois de Boulogne.
Luxembourg Gardens, iStockphoto 2019 © mdmworks; Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil © Paris Tourist Office - Photographe : Amélie Dupont; Bagatelle park and gardens © Paris Tourist Office - Photographe Marc Bertrand
Opposite page: View onto the Grand Galerie d’Evolution at the Jardin des Plantes (top); Colourful red coatis can now be viewed in the Amazon-Guyana zone of the Parc Zoologique de Paris (bottom image). This page clockwise from top: The Medici Fountain in the Luxembourg Gardens; Cactuses in a greenhouse at the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil; The sumptuous Bagatelle park and gardens
On a royal note, the Luxembourg Gardens were created by Marie de’ Medici, the widow of King Henry IV, for a new residence she constructed, the Luxembourg Palace, which today houses the French Senate. The gardens, which are divided into French gardens and English gardens also house an orchard of heirloom apples, an apiary, a monumental fountain and a host of activities including a puppet show, tennis courts, chess boards and sailboats. An offbeat garden to visit on the southern edge of the Bois de Boulogne is the garden of the Serres d’Auteuil, a botanical garden nestled within a greenhouse complex. The gardens were created back in 1761 during the reign of Louis XV while the hot houses date back to the end of the 19th century. The City of Paris organises guided tours of the gardens. ADDRESS BOOK JARDIN DES PLANTES 57 rue Cuvier (5th), 01 40 79 56 01 JARDIN DES SERRES D’AUTEUIL 3 ave de la Porte d’Auteuil (16th), 39 75 (0€05/min) JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG Rue de Médicis-Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 34 20 00 PARC DE BAGATELLE Route de Sèvres à Neuilly (16th), 01 53 64 53 80 PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS Entrance at the corner of Avenue Daumesnil and La Route de la Ceinture du Lac (12th), 01 40 79 31 25 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 59
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions
Motors of Soul
September 7th & 8th Château et Relais de Neuville 22 rue de Laverdy, Gambais 78950
A Look at Lace The Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode of Calais, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, is presenting an exhibition juxtaposing clothing by the Belgian fashion designer Olivier Theyskens, with pieces from the museum’s extensive textile and industrial collections. Entitled In Praesentia, the exhibition is a creative exploration of the highly romantic clothing of Olivier Theyskens, whose designs make use of old fashioned fabrics and lace, particularly Chantilly lace. His career kicked off in Paris in 1997 and he earned international attention the following year when Madonna wore one of his creations to the Oscars in 1998. He created his own brand but also became the artistic director for houses like Rochas and Nina Ricci. Heralded as the Gothic prince of fashion by the media, his designs are marked by dramatic silhouettes and often fashioned in black. - P.V. Showing through to January 5th 135 Quai du Commerce, 62100 Calais, 03 21 00 42 30 60 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
Christophe Batut.. Robe en dentelle mécanique tissée, Leavers (Sophie Hallette) Olivier Theyskens, printemps été 2017, Photo © Julien Claessens et Thomas Deschamps
An entertaining and rural road trip event is on the agenda on the grounds of an elegant castle set into the greenery of the Natural Park of the Haut Vallée de Chevreuse, 50 kilometres west of Paris. The Motors and Soul Festival brings together cars and motorcycles with character, rides out into the surrounding scenic countryside, the Lifestyle Village of art and crafts, two style competitions, a food court and food trucks, live music and a space for children’s games. Two themes are on offer to discover the roads of the Chevreuse Valley, the Scenic Routes and the curve-filled Curvy Routes by car or motorcycle. No less than 16 rides and short journeys are mapped out as well and for those who wish to use their own vehicle, road books are available. There is also a Showroom Space with the latest in cars and motorcycles of character presented by their makers. A show is slated for Saturday night featuring rock, blues, soul and jazz. . - P.V.
Delaunay : © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais - image Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI / Verrière : © Cosimo Mirco Magliocca
THE UNIV ERSELLE A R T FA I R
13-17 SEPT 2019 G R A N D PA L A I S
L A B I E N N A L E PA R I S . C O M
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions
Clockwise from top left: Aspic belt created by Joseff of Hollywood worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the film «Cleopatra»1963; Snake necklace by Lucien Lelong circa 1930; Charm bracelet with Chanel’s symbols, circa 1980; Olwen Forest
JEWELLERY OF MAGIC,
Mystery and Melody I t’s an exhibition of sounds punctuated by dazzling lights where worlds of legends collide. There is a set of bracelets and earrings from Elsa Schiaparelli’s Shocking Pink Collection in the rich and magical colours of the aurora borealis. There is the mermaid brooch in enamel bringing to mind the singing sound of the mysterious sirens of the sea. Mystery, too, is embodied in a delightful gold and green crocodile brooch in pâte de verre. And the melody of the buzzing of bees bursts forth in a music-making charm bracelet by Miriam Haskell.
Vintage jewel expert and collector Olwen Forest is presenting a harmonious and melodious selection of jewellery in an exhibition entitled Magic, Mystery and Melody in Jewellery, showcasing pieces that recount the stories that are hidden behind the creations inspired by symbols and creature of legend.
By Patricia Valicenti
which brooches take the shape of bees ready to fly away, to gather nectar, to frolic. Of different sizes, these bees, so essential to our environment, are seemingly in a swarm, christened scatter pins, they are meant to be worn like a set over the entire bust of a dress. From September 1st Sat from 9:30am to 5:30pm, Sun from 10:30am to 5:30pm & Mon from 11am-4pm Puces of Saint-Ouen, Marché Serpette,
110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, allée 3-stands 5, 6 & 7 01 40 11 96 38
French designer Lucien Lelong brings us a mysterious world, which often drew upon ancient Egypt and the Nile country for inspiration. “It is the magic of the four Ss,” explains Olwen Forest, “Slow, secret, sauntering, snakelike ornaments.” A bracelet in the shape of a snake that can be wrapped around the arm, the neck and even the body by Lucien Lelong is on show. There are two intriguing mermaid brooches on show as well, mermaids whose mystery remains intact for they are unsigned pieces, with their designers remaining a mystery. More mystical and magical symbolism is on the agenda with the jewellery by Joseff of Hollywood worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra, like the crocodile earrings, the snake earrings and cuff bracelet. There are silent melodies, too, embodied in the earrings designed by Isabel Canovas like the pair of earrings depicting human faces with pure lines but hollow looks. Another variation on sound is a collection signed by Joseff of Hollywood in 62 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
Jewellery and Elizabeth Taylor Photos © Frédéric Poletti; Olwen Forest Photo © Frédéric Poletti
There are superb Chanel pieces like the chain necklace brought to life with a miniature perfume bottle and a pair of quilted bag earrings. A Chanel charm bracelet jingles with magic-like symbols like an angel, a lion, a tortoise, a fourleaf clover or the celebrated camellia.
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Out of Town
A Meeting with MONET
By Patricia Valicenti
N
estled midway between the greater Paris region and Normandy is a property called Pressoir. It was back in 1883 that Claude Monet would first rent the home where he would cultivate splendid gardens and live and work surrounded by his family. He would die there in 1926. The rural landscapes of the Seine river valley as well as the presence of water drew the artist to this village that would become his home, his home to which he was extremely attached. He would obtain permission from the local authorities to divert a small arm of the scenic Epte River, the Rû, and in so doing would create his Water Garden, replete with basins, basins that Monet would seed with water lilies, basins that he would paint into some of the leading masterpieces the world has even known.
Fondation Claude Monet Giverny
84 rue Claude Monet, 27620 Giverny, 02 32 51 28 21 Open through to November 1st
Photos © Fondation Claude Monet Giverny - droits réservés
For it was in Giverny that Monet developed his love of gardening creating first his Clos Normand garden and then the Water Garden beginning in 1890. He didn’t just plant his gardens, he would arrange them, direct them, creating a living theatre, almost as if he had imagined his paintings before he painted them. Gradually abandoned after the death of the painter, the gardens and the home of Monet were opened to the public in 1980 after an extensive four-year restoration. Through the seasons from April to October a riot of colourful blooms blaze out for the gardens are filled with bulbs, annuals, biennials, perennials from spring to summer, water lilies, flowering shrubs, weeping willows, roses, peonies and more, all offering the visitor to these extraordinary gardens a unique journey into the heart of the imaginary world of the painter. Monet’s other great passion was for Japanese prints and at Giverny the visitor can discover his extraordinary collection, conserved practically in its entirety, of 211 prints. A visit into the home of Claude Monet takes the visitor into the life of Monet and his large, extended family for the artist had two children with his first wife and six step children from his second wife. There are the sitting rooms and the bedrooms but the central part of the home was the kitchen and next door a rather inviting dining room.
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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments
Sacré-Coeur
EIFFEL TOWER
The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro
CATHEDRALE DE LA SAINTE-TRINITE This Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in the Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Its five smooth gold onion domes covered in 90,000 leaves of gold are topped by Russian orthodox crosses with the highest standing at over 36 metres. Daily 2pm-7pm, guided tours 12-7pm. 1 Quai Branly (7th). M° Alma-Marceau
LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité
Arc de Triomphe 64 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon
NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm;
La Conciergerie
Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. The cathedral is closed for repairs and restoration following the fire. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité
PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Through to September 1st Un Air d’Italie, the exhibition explores the history of the French lyrical scene with Italy. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Through to October 6th L’Histoire Silencieuse des Sourds, this exhibition looks at deaf mutes and sign language from the Middle Ages to the present. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine
Eiffel Tower
Photos iStock 2019 : Sacré-Coeur © Tomas Sereda; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments
Luxembourg Garden
Panthéon
Photos iStock 2018 : Luxembourg Garden, Fontaine Medicis © mdmworks; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Golero; Tuileries Garden © Consu1961
PLACE DES VOSGES
Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).
One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert
PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de
Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-
Sacré-Coeur
Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
Pont des Arts
Tuileries Garden
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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS
PARIS
Paris Flea Market
Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.
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Carré Rive Gauche
This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)
ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées
A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Olwen Forest
Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga
Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Richard Orlinski
This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Opera Gallery
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde 66 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
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DIGITAL MAP
ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles
Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Atelier des Lumières
A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise
with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Flight Experience Paris
You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare
FlyView
Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra
France Miniature
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt
Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée
Grande Arche
Ballon de Paris
La Mer de Sable
This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée
Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel
Catacombes de Paris
The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people
This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are three major shows, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. There is a shuttle bus from La Porte Maillot on certain days, reservations at 07.71.37.28.79 or by car from Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7.
Le Manoir de Paris
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Address Book
Parc Zoologique de Paris
This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.
Parc Asterix
This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).
Rex Studios
Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Thoiry Zoo Safari
This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67
Vedettes du Pont Neuf
These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf
River Limousine
Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37
Vedettes de Paris
Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
BOAT CRUISES Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Bateaux-Mouches
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
Bateaux Parisiens
The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus
A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12
This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
Giverny
Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet
Parc Asterix | ATTRACTIONS
arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare SaintLazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21
Musée National du Château de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde
Jardin du Luxembourg
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon
GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris
Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra
Paris Authentic
This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19
Paris City Vision
City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
Retro Tour
Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide
Ballon de Paris | ATTRACTIONS w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 67
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book
and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07
MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou
France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro
Dali Paris
In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers
Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design
This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz
MAD
A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal
Mona Bismarck American Center
A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna
Fondation Louis Vuitton
Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
Institut Giacometti
This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail
Institut du Monde Arabe
Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm,
Open Tour Paris | GUIDED TOURS 68 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B R E 2019
This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme
A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville
Musée des Arts et Métiers
A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace
Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides
This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne
Musée Cernuschi
The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau
Musée Cognacq-Jay
This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul
Musée Grévin
A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet
This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna
Musée en Herbe
A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS
ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Address Book
Musée de l’Homme
The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro
Musée de la Vie Romantique
A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche
Musée Jacquemart-André
mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle
A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner
The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil
This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes
Musée du Louvre
Musée de l’Orangerie
One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée de la Magie
In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul
Musée d’Orsay
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac
The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard
Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra
Musée Marmottan Monet
A beautiful and delightful museum in a private
A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
Musée Picasso
A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Musée Rodin
Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 6:30pm, last tickets at 5:45pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS
Musée du Vin
Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau
Palais de la Découverte
This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Palais de Tokyo
Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna
Petit Palais
The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique
This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin
PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre
Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Musée Grévin | MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 69
The Guide
DINING
French Fare | Fusion | French Bistros | World Food | Vegetarian-Friendly
Dine at vegetarian-friendly Clover Green (page 74)
70 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
DINING
Restaurants
A Southern Voyage One of the world’s most magnificent restaurants, the Belle Epoque Le Train Bleu at the Gare de Lyon, will be hosting one of the most distinguished chefs in the south of France, Jean-André Charial of the Michelin two-star L’Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux de Provence from September 11th to October 1st. Charial will be proposing a three-course 75euro menu that debuts with a composition of cooked and raw tuna with sieved egg, capers, lemon thyme and wild herbs from the garrigue, or countryside around Les Baux, and continues with red mullet filets with aubergines stuffed with Brousse cheese and sauced with basil pistou sauce. This profoundly Provençal feast concludes with some of the world’s best rice pudding garnished with caramelised cashews. Even if you’re not transiting the station on the way south to Provence, this menu is a wonderful opportunity to sample the cooking of a great Provençal chef in a truly sumptuous dining room. – Alexander Lobrano Le Train Bleu Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06
La Rotisserie Gallopin © Alma Photos
Sunday Roast Everyday While so many restaurants that open in Paris go the modern route when it comes to cuisine, legendary restaurant Gallopin has opted for tradition, opening an annexe, La Rôtisserie Gallopin, and putting the spotlight on the savoir-faire of roasted dinners. The highlight here is the roasted chicken, weighing in at 2.2 kilograms, and it is of course made to share, however, if you are sporting a less ravenous appetite, the menu also serves more reasonable individual servings. The menu is also kind to vegetarians and pescatarians with roasted sea bream and a deliciously creamy Tarbais bean dip on offer. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays, Saturday for dinner only and Sunday for lunch. – S.I. La Rôtisserie Gallopin 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01 53 40 84 10 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71
DINING
Restaurants
The South in Paris In a cute courtyard, complete with a fountain ordered by Napoleon, is where Les Fables de la Fontaine sits quaintly. Resembling a charming address in the South of France, this fine dining restaurant is a beautiful introduction to French cuisine with chef Mehdi Karamane marrying fine produce and his savoir-faire to create delicate dishes without being too overpowering with an abundance of ingredients. The menu changes every season and could include dishes such as an original sweat pea chilled soup served with smoked mozzarella with a dash of mint and balsamic vinegar, or the steamed sea bass served with roasted zucchini and olives. The menu, however, does not include any vegetarian main dishes, with the chef admitting that with a menu of only five main dishes it is difficult to replace one with a vegetarian dish, although he is more than happy to put together a vegetable platter with an assortment of side dishes, leaving vegetarian diners more space for dessert. Desserts here include the rice pudding soufflé served with a caramel sauce and vanilla ice-cream, and the tempting Tanzanian chocolate dessert, which sees a rich chocolate cream served with a light hazelnut-flavoured sauce and pieces of caramelised hazelnuts. – S.I. Les Fables de la Fontaine 131 rue Saint-Dominique (7th), 01 44 18 37 55
In the buzzing 10th arrondissement, just across the road from one of our favourite spots, Le Grand Amour Hotel, is where you will find Takaramono. This restaurant is a fabulous spot for a casual night out with friends where you can enjoy Mediterranean Asian fusion-style dishes perfect for sharing and great cocktails. Try the mashed sweet pea dip or the cream of eggplant mixed with a black sesame paste to start then make sure you order the generous serving of focaccia bread filled with marinated peppers and drizzled with a miso sauce or the sundried tomato and eggplant-filled gyozas. The menu changes every season and with each update a new set of tableware is supplied by the Compagnie Française de l’Orient et de la Chine to better suit the new dishes served. Takaramono is open for dinner only, from Tuesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 2am. – S.I. Takaramono 3 rue de la Fidélité (10th), 06 21 59 37 18 72 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Les Fables de la Fontaine © Adeline Monnier;Takaramono x CFOC © Julietteorts
Fusion to Share
A DASH OF MAGIC AND GOURMET AUTHENTICITY SERVED UP BY THE CHEF PHILIP CHRONOPOULOS TO INSPIRE DEEP, COLOURFUL EMOTION OPEN FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY TEL: +33 (0)1 40 20 0 0 27 CONTAC T@RESTAUR ANTDUPAL AISROYAL.COM RESTAUR ANTDUPAL AISROYAL.COM
110 GALERIE DE VALOIS Valet service & taxi: 41 rue de Valois, 75001Paris
DINING
Restaurants
Starred for Vegans It isn’t always easy for vegetarians and vegans to eat out in Paris, let alone appetising to dine at a fine dining restaurant, however, at L’Atelier Etoile, the Joël Robuchon restaurant, vegetarians are spoiled with a special menu. The Michelin-starred establishment treats vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-free diners to a wonderful 6-course meal that indulges the taste buds to spices, textures and flavours that show off the talents of chef Thierry Karakachian, who continues the culinary legacy of the late Joël Robuchon. Sweet beetroot served with tangy Granny Smith apples and seasoned with a mustard sorbet, roasted artichoke on a bed of creamy purée, and risotto-style saffron rice are only a preview of the delicious menu.. – S.I. L’Atelier Etoile Publicis Drugstore 133 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 47 23 75 75
Another great restaurant suitable for veggieloving diners is Clover Green. Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège has transformed Clover into Clover Green, a safe culinary haven for vegetarians and vegans, where the menu changes on a regular basis, putting the spotlight on the season’s best produce. The most recent menu included zucchini served on a bed of velouté with shavings of almonds and a dollop of almond ice-cream, and a delightful plate decorated with heritage tomatoes and sprinkled with capers, parmesan cheese and baby rocket leaves. Nonvegetarian diners are also welcome with each main dish available with a choice of fish, chicken or meat depending on the seasonal menu. The restaurant can only host 22 diners at a time so it is advised to reserve. – S.I. Clover Green 5 rue Perronet (7th), 01 75 50 00 05 74 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Atelier Robuchon Etoile Food © Romain Ricard
Bistro Dining
DINING
Restaurants
Chez Fred © Maxime Antony
Bistro Best Ever since 1945, Chez Fred has reigned as one of the French capital’s best bistros. Now new owner Laurent Hullo has shrewdly updated it to reflect the way Parisians and travellers want to eat today, and frankly, this excellent table is better than ever. Every meal is a sum of its details, and that’s why the complimentary starter of radishes that arrive at the table here before you order is just right, it’s so French and so traditional. The menu evolves with the seasons, but chef David Crozat’s cooking is unfailingly excellent, including dishes like escargots, foie gras, veal with morels mushrooms, steak with Béarnaise sauce, and sole meunière. There’s a wonderful selection of classic French desserts here, too, including a made to order apple tart, floating island, baba au rhum with whipped cream by star pastry chef Gilles Marchal, and an excellent chocolate soufflé, and the wine list is outstanding. Charming, efficient service adds to the pleasure of a meal here, and this address is as ideal for a business meal as it is for a really fine Gallic feed. – A.L. Chez Fred 190bis blvd Pereire (17th), 01 45 74 20 48 ADVERTORIAL
The heart of SaintGermain-des-Prés From the moment you step through the door, two Bulle armchairs set the scene: the Bel Ami Bar is the ideal place to relax in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Sitting comfortably on a couch or armchair, cast your eye over the large bookshelves filled with a selection of books from local publishing houses and miscellaneous objects. You could almost be sitting in a spacious Parisian apartment, home to a lover of the Arts and design. The glass wall bathes the area in natural light. The Bel Ami Bar is home to superb and delicious original creations born from the know-how and the passion of the head barman. For lovers of non-alcoholic cocktails, the Bel Ami Bar offers creations made with fresh fruits with varied and surprising flavors. A daily tapas menu, made with only fresh products & committed to fair trade, harmoniously complements the original offer of the Bel Ami Bar. The best time of the day to visit the Bel Ami Bar From 6PM to 7PM, for a sunset hour and from 9PM to 10PM, for a Before/After dinner, the Bel Ami Bar offers cocktails starting from 19€. 7-11 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01 42 61 53 53 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 75
DINING
Restaurants
A Taste of Greece Though not well-known to travellers, the 10th arrondissement in the heart of Paris has become one of the liveliest and youngest neighbourhoods in the city. The rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, one of its main streets, has emerged as a popular new restaurant row, with many new tables that reflect the tastes of younger Parisians. One of the best is the new Grand Café d’Athènes, a beautiful casual-dining restaurant that prides itself on serving the same kind of authentic Greek cooking you find on Aegean islands like Paros and Mykonos. With friendly service and a lively crowd, this is a good place to take a night off from French cooking over a meal of delicious dishes like kolokithokeftedes (zucchini beignets with feta), baked feta with honey and oregano, spanakopita (spinach-stuffed turnover), octopus with warm potatoes and smoked paprika, sautéed squid with baby broccoli salad and roasted figs with vanilla icecream for dessert. – A.L. Le Grand Café d’Athènes 74 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis (10th), 01 74 64 65 46
In a quiet street in the Latin Quarter of the French capital, one of the city’s best Moroccan restaurants is found. Le Méchoui du Prince is a family-run restaurant serving authentic Moroccan cuisine, prepared with herbs and spices that take your taste buds on a voyage to beautiful Marrakesh and the mysterious Sahara desert. Start with a traditional Pastilla, a filo pastry pie filled with chicken, seafood or cheese, and for your main course the authentic Couscous du Prince, just like in Casablanca, is not to be missed, with lamb, beef and chicken served on a fluffy bed of couscous. If you have room for dessert, try the refreshing oranges lightly sprinkled with cinnamon, or for something richer, the restaurant serves traditional oriental pastries, dripping with sweet honey. – S.I. Le Méchoui du Prince 36 rue Monsieur le Prince (6th), 01 40 51 88 48 76 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Grand Café d’Athènes photo ® Jules Dalod Danesi
A Taste of the Exotic
Open Daily ~ Valet Service ~ Patios ~ Terrace ~ Private Rooms
Moulin Vert Menu All inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif ~ Starter ~ Main course ~ Dessert Wine ~ Coffee www.legrandbistro.fr
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MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37
SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37
Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Terraces - Private Rooms
New summer carte Best oysters selection in Paris Amazing seafood platters
DINING
Restaurants
Dining Like Locals One of the great pleasures of any trip to Paris is figuring out a way to live like a local, and that’s why Auberge Dab is such a wonderful address. All year-round it’s a favourite of a chic crowd of habitués who offer some of the best people-watching in the French capital. In the summer, they come for the spacious, shaded terrace, and the rest of the year, they settle into the oak panelled dining room with tufted brown banquettes or wood-framed armchairs to dine on beautifully prepared French comfort food classics, which are skilfully prepared with the highest quality produce. Dining here recently with a friend I started off with plump Gillardeau and Utah Beach oysters, while my friend chose the very goodvalue 39-euro Club Affaire menu, which includes an aperitif, starter, main course, dessert, coffee and a half-bottle of white or red wine per person. She loved her foie gras, and then sautéed sea bream filet with crushed potatoes and sauce vierge (chopped tomatoes and basil in olive oil). My veal steak was perfectly cooked and sauced with a savoury reduction of cooking juices, and around us people were tucking into shellfish towers. For my part, I rather envied the steak tartare a neighbour was eating, since it looked excellent. We finished up with a baba au rhum dosed with excellent Saint James rum from Martinique for her and profiteroles with pistachio ice-cream and hot chocolate sauce for me. – A.L. Auberge Dab 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01 45 00 32 22 ADVERTORIAL
A WONDERFUL WORLD OF WHISKY The Golden Promise Whisky Bar, located in the Montorgueil neighbourhood, is the place for whisky lovers. In a snug and cosy atmosphere conducive to tasting, the venue offers two separate rooms. The first is dedicated to whisky cocktails, including the most mythical of them, but a number of original creations as well. The second room is reserved for tasting rare whiskies with more than 1,000 bottles, most of which are practically unobtainable. There are the single malts of course, with an amazing collection of scotches and old Japanese whiskies and also old pure malts and blended whiskies, all of which demonstrate in their own way the savoirfaire of bygone times. Golden Promise Whisky Bar 11 rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris www.whisky.fr/boutiques 78 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
ADVERTORIAL
Djakarta Bali Taking you on a voyage to exotic Indonesia, Djakarta Bali, a family-run restaurant, opened its doors in 1985 after the family was sent into exile in 1965. Today, thirty years on, the restaurant still continues to share traditional Indonesian cuisinewith Parisians and visitors to the French capital. In a warm and inviting ambiance diners are invited to discover the Indonesian specialties including the Gado-Gado, a salad of mixed vegetables seasoned with a peanut sauce, Opor Ayam, a dish of chicken slowly cooked in a light coconut milk sauce and Pepes Ikan, a traditional dish where the fish is steamed and cooked inside a banana leaf. For dessert fresh fruit is on the menu as well as the Coupe Kolak, banana and jackfruit served in coconut milk. For a farther voyage, plunging diners to Indonesia, the restaurant hosts a Balinese dance show every Friday night.
Djakarta Bali 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01 45 08 83 11
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Address Book
DINING
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)
Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro
Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)
The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
FOOD & WINE Beaupassage
This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac
Fauchon
A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite
This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging
from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette
La Maison Plisson
This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart
Nicolas
The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine
AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles
Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)
The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Bistro Volnay - Bistro
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
(€€€)
This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides
Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Fauchon | FOOD & WINE (8th) 80 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Djakarta Bali | CLASSIC FRENCH (2nd)
DINING
Address Book
atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal
harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
LE MARAIS (3 , 4 ) rd
th
Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
Breakfast in America - American (€€)
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)
Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon- Sat D. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
Le Select - Brasserie (€€)
This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 Mº Vavin
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel
AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Ze Kitchen Galerie | FUSION (6th)
Le Lulli | CLASSIC FRENCH (1st) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81
DINING
Address Book Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Le Récamier - Classic French (€€)
This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone
AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)
An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary
(€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)
This 2-star gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice
while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)
Laurent - Gourmet
(€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary
(€€)
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)
This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers
Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)
This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau
Monsieur - French (€€€€)
This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)
This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau
AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)
This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau
Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)
This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Manko Paris | PERUVIAN (8th) 82 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
Brasserie Réjane | BRASSERIE (1st)
DINING
Address Book éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)
An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. M° Gobelins
La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)
This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm,
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse
Benkay - Japanese (€€€)
This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. M° Dupleix
TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna
La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)
This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)
Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin
Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta
SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt
ReminiSens - Classic French
(€€€€)
This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Les Grandes Marches | BRASSERIE (12th)
Ober Mamma | ITALIAN (11th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 83
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Sip on cocktails at the fun Rouge à Lèvres (page 88)
84 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
Le Rouge à Lèvres photo © Edouard Auffray for Maud Moureau
Shows | Festivals | Al Fresco Cocktails | Pop-Up Bars | Cabarets | Clubs | Wine Bars
ENTERTAINMENT
Shows
A Night at the Opera Politics, religion and love come together in Giacomo Puccini’s Tosca under the stars at the Hôtel National des Invalides, as the Paris museum transforms itself into an open-air opera house. Playing from the 4th to the 8th of September, Tosca takes you back to Rome in 1800 to tell the story of its jealous heroine, Tosca. Based on Victorien Sardou’s play, the opera is a dramatic tale of love, jealousy and betrayal, at a time of political unrest. You can book your tickets online (www. operaenpleinair.com), or at Fnac. - S.I. Hôtel National des Invalides 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01 44 42 38 77
Invalides © Teresa Suàrez; Ghost, Claudia Tagbo © Stage
Ghost in Love It was one of the 90’s biggest movie hits, and now Ghost is coming to Paris, this time in the form of a musical. The love story between Sam and Molly is retold through song at the Théâtre Mogador starting from the 26th of September, and just like the movie it promises to have the audience falling in love with the couple and their heartbreaking love story as Sam returns as a ghost after being murdered. Moneik Boersma steps in the role made famous by Demi Moore, Grégory Benchenafi takes on Patrick Swayze’s Sam, and Claudia Tagbo stars as psychic Oda Mae Brown, the role that won Whoopi Goldberg an Oscar for Best Supporting Actress. - S.I. Théâtre Mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th), 01 53 32 32 32 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 85
ENTERTAINMENT Shows
Dancing Rituals Dancer and choreographer Akram Khan is highly acclaimed for his contemporary work, embracing both classical and modern dance. This month the dancer is bringing his company’s new production, Outwitting the Devil, to Le 13ème Art, from the 11th to the 20th of September. The dance production is an ode to the past, with old rituals translated through dance, with an ensemble of six very different international artists sharing their different stories, and celebrating life and generations past. - S.I.
Paris Parties Summer is coming to an end and with that the last of the music festivals is taking place for one last hurrah. Paris est Têtu is taking over the Hippodrome d’Auteuil on the 21st and 22nd of September with a roll call of international artists performing in support of the first edition of the music festival that celebrates the LGBT+ community. Artists billed to perform over the twoday festival include Jake Shears, Malik Djoudi and Alice et Moi. You can get your daily or weekend passes at Fnac. - S.I. Hippodrome d’Auteuil 7 route d’Auteuil aux Lacs (16th) 86 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
©Jean Louis Fernandez; Jake Shears Live 2018 by Lauren Stewart
Le 13ème Art 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01 53 31 13 13
ADVERTORIAL
“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light
B
orn in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.
Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?
Sans titre-5 1
Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 800 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!
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BOOKING
24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 ) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning
www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98
th
Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE
Not recommended for kids under 16 years old
01/06/2017 ww w. p a r i s m a11:51 p. fr 87
ENTERTAINMENT Bars
A Fun Drop A great local bar, where everyone knows your name, well at least the staff know the regulars, is Rouge à Lèvres, a recently opened wine bar in the Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. Serge, the owner, is a loveable character, greeting everyone with a shot of a rum cocktail, though everything else is kept secret. The wine list includes drops from Burgundy and the Loire Valley, and of course bubbly from champagne, and if you are looking for fun cocktails, on the menu you will find the Mimi, made with vodka, lime, strawberry syrup and fresh basil, and if you prefer something a little bit stronger then the Juju is for you, made with rum and spiced with ginger, it will take you to St Bart’s in a matter of a sip. The bar is open from Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm to 1am, and serves tapasstyle dishes great for sharing including Gouda cheese with truffles, creamy tarama and even Peruvian-style ceviche. - S.I.
Cabana Cocktails If you’re looking to watch the sun set in the French capital with a cooling drink in hand make sure you reserve yourself a table at Le Papa Cabane. Back for another year, the pop-up bar is serving up music, street food and the South of France-popular sport, Pétanque. Open from Wednesday to Friday, from 5pm to 11pm, and from 12pm to 10pm every Saturday and Sunday, Le Papa Cabane has set up quite the inviting atmosphere with a boho chic décor complete with plants and environmentally friendly furniture, making you, and the environment feel good. The summer spot has mojitos, rosé wine and mocktails on the drinks menu, and burgers and salads on the snacking menu, with music soundtracking your summer evening in fabulous Paris. - S.I. Le Papa Cabane Rue Paul Belmondo (12th), 01 53 46 50 17 88 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
Le Rouge à Lèvres © Edouard Auffray for Maud Moureau; Papa Cabane © ClaireDem
Rouge à Lèvres 6 rue Rougemont (9th), 01 42 46 27 62
ENTERTAINMENT Pop-Up Bars
Cocktails by Cointreau Make the best of the end of summer with an al fresco cocktail at The Hoxton. The popular hotel in the second arrondissement is hosting La Riviera, a seasonal outdoor bar in collaboration with Cointreau. Open daily from 11am to 11pm, La Riviera serves 5 cocktails exclusively created for the pop-up and includes the Riviera Spritz, the classic spritz with a French splash of champagne. The bar features comfortable outdoor furniture inspired by the cool 50s, taking you on a summer holiday to the beach on the Riviera without even leaving the capital city. - S.I. The Hoxton 30 rue du Sentier (2nd), 01 85 65 75 00
Š Thibault Copleux; Š Trevor Hart 2016
Havana Nights The annual summer Plaza Havana Club is back for another year and in 2019 the Club is taking us to La Rotonde. A former toll tax building from where officers inspected goods entering Paris, La Rotonde, an impressive neo-classical historical monument, is now a cultural space complete with a trattoria and art gallery, and this summer it is where Plaza Havana Club is serving a taste of Cuba to guests. Through to the 27th of September, toast the French capital with a classic Mojito or a more refreshing frozen daiquiri. - S.I. La Rotonde 6-8 Place de la Bataille Stalingrad (19th), 01 80 48 33 40 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 89
ENTERTAINMENT Cabarets
Moulin Rouge
CRAZY HORSE
LIDO
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche
PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, starting on May 2nd, Oiseau Paradis is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 500 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm.
Crazy Horse - UpsideDown © Antoine Poupel
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
www.secretsquare.fr 27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
Restaurant 8:30 pm - 12:15am Cabaret 10 pm - 4 am Closed on sundays and mondays
Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot
A call to awaken your senses...
Agence o cédille - Photo Ben Massiot
© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2019 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185E - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77E - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM E185 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM E77
MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM
Address Book
ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
Kléber Bar
Buddha-Bar
This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Le Bristol Bar
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries
Hotel Providence
Le Bar
Prescription Cocktail Club
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
CASINO
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
Casinos Barrière
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
JAZZ CLUBS Caveau de la Huchette
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel
Le Rubis
Duc des Lombards
Ice Kube Paris
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
92 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. M° Concorde
Moonshiner
Le Lucien Bar
Bar Le Baudelaire | BARS & WINE BARS (1st)
Les Ambassadeurs
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances,
Jazz Club Etoile | JAZZ CLUBS (17th)
ENTERTAINMENT
Address Book
live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS
Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Social Club
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
Les Bains
Pink Paradise
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
NIGHT CLUBS L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Duplex
Le Mona Lisa
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau
Medellin
This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. M° Alma-Marceau
Pachamama
This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented
New Morning | JAZZ CLUBS (10th)
while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards
Vanity Paris
This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal
MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul
Raspoutine | NIGHT CLUBS (8th) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 93
The Guide
SERVICES
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris HAIR SALONS
LIMOUSINES
Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon
Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50
(8th), 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde
Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon
Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine
David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2 ), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse nd
Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine
Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue SaintHonoré (1 ), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde st
Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde
ADVERTORIAL
REAL ESTATE AGENCIES Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin
REAL ESTATE ADVISOR Planning to Buy or Rent property in Paris? Investing in property in Paris and need a professional you can trust? César SANINT can help you! This bilingual realtor knows Paris like the back of his hand. BUYING – RENTING – RENOVATING? Call César! Feel free to schedule an appointment by calling 06.09.33.91.68 or at homy@homyparis.com Homy Paris Real Estate 92 Avenue Kléber (Paris, 16th) - M° Trocadéro
94 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
PARIS DISTRICTS 1 ARRONDISSEMENT st
The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.
2nd ARRONDISSEMENT
Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.
3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT
Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.
5 ARRONDISSEMENT th
Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.
6th ARRONDISSEMENT
The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.
9th ARRONDISSEMENT
Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Blvd Haussmann.
10th ARRONDISSEMENT
Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.
11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT
The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.
13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.
16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT
7th ARRONDISSEMENT
The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.
8th ARRONDISSEMENT
Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.
Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.
18th ARRONDISSEMENT
19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT
Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.
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L’IBIS ROUGE
THE LUXURY VINTAGE BOUTIQUE This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also find a fine selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Libisrouge
Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.
7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 95 27730 BTSPA 58X170 WHEREOK.indd 1
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SERVICES
Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
96 W H E R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2019
◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.
◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
FREE INTERACTIVE
MAP OF PARIS www.parismap.fr
THE LUXURY & FASHION DEPARTMENT STORE DESTINATION
• 45,000 sqm dedicated to Fashion, Luxury and Beauty • A building classified as a historic monument • Tailor made services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering a breathtaking view of Paris
• A unique shopping experience in the heart of the world’s most beautiful museum • The best selection of iconic Luxury & Beauty brands
PR I NTEMP S .COM
HAUSSMANN, 64, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS - Tél. +33 (0)1 42 82 50 00 LOUVRE, 99, RUE DE RIVOLI 75001 PARIS - TÉL. +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00
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My Paris
THIBAULT LOUPIAS
HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL GRAND POWERS
Pont Alexandre III
Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? Go down Rue François 1er and arrive at the Alexandre III Bridge to admire the beauty of the Eiffel Tower and the Russian SainteTrinity Cathedral. Then go on a private river cruise on the river, aboard a Venetian boat. For epicureans, I would recommend Girafe, the restaurant is decked in 1930’s décor, and serves contemporary seafood cuisine and its terrace offers a breathtaking view. As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Café 52 located at the heart of the buzzing Golden Triangle. Chef Maxime Raab who previously made his name at Fouquet’s skilfully puts the fresh, healthy, sophisticated but uncomplicated fare together. My second choice is Chez Fernand, the best bistro on the Left Bank. My last choice is Yaya where chef Juan Arbelaez serves dishes made to share. What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? Musée Jacquemart-André. With a stunning staircase and an impressive art collection. Vaux-le-Vicomte is the seminal expression of the Jardin à la Française, the French aesthetic of formal gardens that swept Europe in the 17th century. Majestically laid out along a four-kilometre axis, the château of Vaux-leVicomte surges from a series of planes like 98 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 019
Ibrik
a theatre set. The Fondation Louis Vuitton, situated in the Bois de Boulogne, is a stone’s throw from the Jardin d’Acclimatation. The Foundation’s exceptional contemporary art collections (permanent and temporary) are exhibited in an architectural gem designed by American architect Frank Gehry. If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Left Bank or the Right Bank? Right Bank in the Golden Triangle. All the famous brands are concentrated in the same area. The Marais is also the place to shop the exclusive or ephemeral collections from up-and-coming designers. What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? A candlelight dinner at Grand Coeur restaurant. What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? Your favourite three children-friendly spots. Jardin d’Acclimatation is a perfect combination of landscaped spaces, cultural activities and an amusement park. Located in the Bois de Boulogne, it continues to seduce generations of children and their parents. The Aquarium of Paris, also called Cinéaqua, is an aquarium located under the hill of Chaillot between the Trocadéro and the Seine, in the 16th arrondissement. It was built in 1867, making it the first aquarium in the world. Le Palais de la Découverte, located in the 8th arrondissement, this museum gives the tools
Café 52
to understand the developments in science and technology. What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? Our Bar 52 offers a large selection of new and classic cocktails for a perfect combination of heritage and invention. I also recommend the UC-61. No one would imagine the existence of a bar behind the grey military façade. The doorbell rings, the door opens and a cosy bar that would have been catapulted into the hull of a submarine like the Jules Verne appears. Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? Boulom invites you to a culinary journey in 3 stages. The entrance is through a Bakery - Pastry tradition. You will find a range of pastries and bread made with ancient organic wheat. Cold, hot, sweet, savoury, and a nice selection of wine are all on the menu. Finally, for those who wish to extend the evening, a speakeasy cocktail bar.
My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Ibrik. 12pm: Lunch at Brasserie Cézanne. 3pm: A walk through the Palais Royal garden. 9pm: Dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Nomicos.
where
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Your Guide to the World
Pont Alexandre III, iStockphoto 2019 © Tomas Sereda; Café 52 © Romain Ricard
Nomicos
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THE PARISIANS’ FAVORITE DEPARTMENT STORE offers you
15
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on presentation of this coupon
LE BHV MARAIS 52 RUE DE RIVOLI, PARIS (4e) M L1 and 11 Tel: 00 (33) 9 77 40 14 00 Open from Monday to Friday 09h30 - 20h00 / Saturday 09h30 - 20h30 / Sunday 11h00 - 20h
www.bhv.fr
2000 Lifestyle Brands – A 5 storey-store for men’ fashion – A trendy Rooftop – Marais Guided Tours – Personal Shopper – VIP Lounge – Restaurants – Tax refund – Deliveries
Part of an ecosytem with an art Fondation Lafayette Anticipations and the concept store Eataly dedicated to Italian Cuisine.
* Offer valid from 1st September 2019 to 31st August 2020, by scanning the barcode at checkout. Can be combined with sales and 12% tax refund. Red dot items excluded. See conditions in store.