Where Paris magazine, November 2017 by Where Paris

November PersonaliSe your Paris at wheretraveler.com

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Paris | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The guide 22 Shopping

A Delightful Domain

We take you on a tour of the famous Chantilly chateau

Made In Paris

Discover the fashions created right here in the heart of the French capital

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 56 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 70 Dining

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 82 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and coolest bars 94 services

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 17 Issue N o 286

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

Flying Fashion

FROM THE RUNWAY TO YOUR JET

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

WP NOV 17 COVER SOLO VPASCAL.indd 1

10/10/2017 12:12

on the cover

Turn to page 34 for our Flying Fashion photo shoot Photo © Alex Fadel

THE PORTFOLIO IN Paris ®

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Maison Floret wedding dresses are only some of the fine creations to discover in our Made in Paris feature (Page 18 )

6 W H E R E Pa r i s I n o v e m b e r 2017

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Victor wedding dress from the 2018 collection by the Maison Floret

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35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42

The Château de Chantilly is one that conjures up images of French royalty and majestic living and in this issue of Where we take you to the Domain of Chantilly where you will not only discover the chateau but its surrounding gardens and the famous Horse Museum.

EDITOR-in-chief Sandra Iskander* CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com

Meanwhile, celebrating the French savoir-faire in everything from shoe-making to creating beautiful bespoke wedding dresses our Made in Paris feature introduces you to upscale houses that design and create all their pieces in the very heart of the French capital. For our readers who are looking to discover the Fashion Capital, on our Shopping pages you will find all the latest trends including the best looks to travel in to be both comfortable and still very stylish thanks to our Flying Fashion photo shoot. You will also find the latest must-have accessories for him, the best beauty finds and spas to unwind with relaxing massages.

advertising - account manager Aymen Rakrouki* Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang* Editorial & CommunicationS Assistant Pauline Valter* OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler

Meanwhile, in our Dining section foodies will find the latest offerings from the culinary capital with tables to savour fine, French cuisine as well as contemporary fare showcasing the talents of the city’s chefs. And in our Entertainment section a jazz festival, concerts and a musical are only some of the fun things taking place this month around Paris and on our pages. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman William S. Morris III President and CEO William S. Morris IV

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Novembre 2017. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito Lombarda S.p.a

Sandra Iskander [Editor-in-Chief]

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Graphic Design Manager Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

8 W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M b e r 2017

W W W. B A C C A R A T. C O M Yo u a r e i n v i t e d t o d i s c o v e r o u r n e w c o l l e c t i o n a t o u r B a c c a r a t B o u t i q u e s : 7 9 , r u e d u F a u b o u r g S a i n t - H o n o r é • P a r i s 7 5 0 0 8 • Te l : 0 1 4 2 6 5 3 6 2 6 1 1 , P l a c e d e s E t a t s - U n i s • P a r i s 7 5 0 1 6 • Te l : 0 1 4 0 2 2 1 1 0 0

November

Meet Me in Paris Through to Nov 18 London-based artist Paul Thurlby is bringing his Paris to the City of Light and to art store Sergeant Paper. His colourful limited edition illustrations bring to life some of Paris’s most popular areas including Palais Royal and Montmartre with a nostalgic retro touch. 38 rue Quincampoix (4th), 01 71 32 81 89

HOT DATES Discover the best of November in Paris

10 W HE RE Pa r i s I n o v e m B E R 2017

PARIS THIS MONTH

Dessert Weekend Nov 10 to 12 Angelina, the famous Parisian tea room, has declared this weekend Mont-Blanc Weekend. Following the previous years’ successful Mont-Blanc Day, Angelina has given what the public wants, a full weekend of whipped Chantilly cream, chestnut cream and crunchy meringue. Celebrating its signature patisserie, this year pastry chef Christophe Appert has deconstructed it and is serving it atop a tart base made with chestnuts. The Tarte Mont-Blanc is available at all Angelina addresses including the historical tea room on Rue de Rivoli.

Palais Royal STGP © Paul Thurlby & Sergeant; Angelina; Yoga: Cours Collectifs © Epictura Julie Ferrez ; Saint-Germain des Neiges © Scalp

226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00

It’s Snowing Namaste Nov 8 Stay zen on your trip to the City of Light with Julie Ferrez, one of France’s most famous yoga instructors and all-round health coach. Ferrez hosts different classes around the city and tonight at 7pm she will be at Le Meurice hotel teaching her Yog’n Dance x Le Meurice class, a mix of yoga, dance and barre. Reserve your spot at www.julieferrez.com or directly call Le Meurice. 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 10

Nov 23 to 26 Getting in the spirit of the upcoming ski season, the Saint-Germain neighbourhood is transforming itself once again into a charming ski resort. The Saint-Germain des Neiges event will see chalets and even a ski slope pop up to entertain young and old around Place Saint-Sulpice and along rues Guisarde, Princesse and des Canettes. Visit www.saintgermaindesneiges.com for the full programme. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 11

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs November 1-5 PARIS GAMES WEEK This is the video games event of the year in Paris showcasing the latest in games, hardware, software and accessories. Studios, creators, schools and all of the professionals in the sector will be on-hand along with an ESWC competition and a gallery presenting 40 previously unseen original posters. The show is open from 8:30am to 6:30pm and until 6pm on the 5th. www.parisgamesweek.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 8-12 FINE ARTS PARIS

Once Upon a Time Through to Nov 18 The Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is teaching children aged between 7 and 11 about physics, chemistry, mathematics and biology through an interactive show, bringing to life their favourite fairy tales. Alice in Wonderland and even The Three Little Pigs will help teach children about optical illusions and construction through fun activities. 30 ave Corentin-Cariou (19th), 01 40 05 70 00

This show, being held for the first time this year, brings together exceptional works from the 16th century to today presented by leading galleries from France and abroad. Among the offerings being showcased are works by Renoir and Corot to a Renaissance sculpture, an 18th century painting and a Cubist drawing. The show is open from 12 to 8pm, until 10pm on the 9th and until 7pm on the 12th. www.finearts-paris.com Palais Brongniart Place de la Bourse (2nd)

November 9-12 LES PUCES DU DESIGN This fair showcases the world of design with sections, known as villages, devoted to antique design specialists, contemporary design and vintage fashion. This year the show will showcase the audacious and conceptual works of Italian designer Ettore Sottsass marking the 100th anniversary of his birth. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and from 2pm to 10pm on the 14th. www.pucesdudesign.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

November 9-13 SALON DE LA PHOTO

November 10-12 FOTOFEVER

Dior in the Sun All Month Galerie Martine Gossieaux is exhibiting the works of Jean-Philippe Delhomme, which the artist created for the book Christian Dior and the South. The colourful drawings show the fashion designer in the south of France surrounded by his famous friends as they take in the fabulous sites from enjoying a drink at Senequier in Saint Tropez to walking alongside Marlene Dietrich in Cannes. 56 rue de l’Université (7th), 01 45 44 48 55

12 W H E R E Pa r i s I n o v e m B E R 2017

This art fair devoted to photography and the visual image brings together some 150 emerging photographers and 80 French and international galleries showcasing photography, digital art and video. The show is geared towards collectors and is open from 11am to 8pm and closes at 6pm on the 12th. www.fotofeverartfair.com Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

November 17-20 UN BIJOU POUR NOEL This jewellery fair showcases jewellery from independent French creators and features unique pieces and made-tomeasure offerings from over a dozen designers. The show is open from 11am to 8pm and until 6pm on the 20th. www.unbijoupournoel.fr Hôtel de l’Industrie 4 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)

Cité des sciences: Era Uma Vez © Daniel Espírito Santo; Dior Senequier © Rizzoli Flammarion

This show is devoted to the latest evolutions in photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals and offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. Exhibitions, conferences and the awarding of prizes are all on the agenda. This year the major exhibition is devoted to a leading figure of contemporary photography, Sebastião Salgado. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and closes at 6pm on the 13th. www.lesalondelaphoto.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N

THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING DESTINATION Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more than 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Chanel, Christian Dior, Cartier, Saint Laurent Paris, Dolce & Gabbana, Fauré Lepage, Messika, Céline, Bulgari, Rolex, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Boucheron.

DELICIOUS NOEL, SCRUMPTIOUS NOEL

A FUN AND MAGICAL TREE!

LA CAVE : AN EXCEPTIONAL SELECTION

T h e m a g i c c o n t i n u e s o n t h e s i x t h f l o o r, w i t h t h e

Christmas is the time of year to have fun. Recapture

L a C av e a t L a f a y e t t e G o u r m e t i s t h e d e s t i n a t i o n

Galerie of Gif ts. Spread over nearly 14,000 square

the childlike wonder of the festive spirit with a visit

of choice for Parisian and international wine

feet, hundreds of items – each more spectacular than

to a tree unlike any other, under the dome of Galeries

c o n n o i s s e u r s a l i ke. W i t h 25 0 0 l a b e l s , i t h o u s e s

the last – have been chosen to inspire you and help

Lafayette Haussmann.

an exceptional range of grands vins from Bordeaux,

you find gif ts to delight young and old alike.

A huge tree surrounded by countless balloons

Champagne and other French regions, world wines

To c e l eb rate t his fe s t i ve sp iri t, Gal erie s L afay e t te

and giant mylar ‘candies’, all scat tered beneath the

and spirits, all the while fostering the spirit of a local

Gourmet has asked several top pastry chefs to create

dome.

wine merchant.

an assor tment of exclusive sweet treats. Jean - Paul

Located on the 1st f loor of Lafayette Gourmet, La Cave

Hévin, Pierre Hermé Paris, Benoît Castel, Yann Couvreur,

spans some 450 m 2, in addition to part of its selection

L’Éclair d e G énie, Dalloyau an d Lib er té have e a ch

also available within the Butchers, Seafood and Dairy

applied their unique savoir-faire and a dash of magic

sections of Gourmet.

to give a new twist to the traditional yule log.

GALERIES L AFAYET TE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - L A FAYET TE

Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

A Delightful Domain By Patricia Valicenti

ust an hour north of Paris the department of Oise, named for the majestic river that winds through it, is home to an exceptional architectural and cultural heritage. No less than 300 castles were built in the region between the reigns of Francis I and Napoleon III, and one of the stars of these exceptional castles, located in one of the largest forests in the Paris region, is the Domain of Chantilly, home to the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess d’Aumale, the second largest collection of old paintings in France, the largest horse stables in Europe and one of the most prestigious libraries in the world whose collection includes the celebrated Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, regarded as the most important illuminated Gothic manuscript of the 15th century. Prestigious families through the centuries have inhabited the domain. Anne de Montmorency, soldier, statesmen and an influential member of the French court was born in Chantilly in 1493. The Montmorency family

14 W HE RE Pari s I N O V E M B E R 2017

acquired the property for the future Domain of Chantilly in 1450 through marriage. They built the charming structure that stands there today and turned it into one of the most celebrated domains in France. It would remain in the family for two centuries. However, the Domain of Chantilly is regarded as the masterpiece of a man, Henri of Orléans, the Duke d’Aumale. Collector, aristocrat, an officer in the French army, bibliophile and a man of taste, the prince was the fifth son of the French king, Louis Philippe. He would inherit the Domain of Chantilly from his godfather Louis-Henri Bourbon, the prince of Condé in the 19th century when he was only eight-years-old. Among the 830 paintings conserved at Chantilly are some 100 Italian paintings including masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Raphaël. Through the foresight of the Duke d’Aumale, this precious domain of woodlands, gardens, castle and stables has been thoroughly preserved

The Domain of Chantilly Photo © DOMAINE DE CHANTILLY

Day Trip

enabling its historical and cultural riches to be explored by the public. The Duke, who had no direct heir, bequeathed Chantilly to the Institut de France on the condition that after his death the Condé Museum would be open to the public, that its layout would be maintained and that the collections would not be loaned out. He died in 1897 and less than one year later the museum was opened to the public on April 17th, 1898. A visit to the domain provides a glimpse into the gracious lifestyle of the 19th century, but as well as offering a look into the 17th and 18th centuries as well. The castle’s apartments are a reflection of the French decorative arts of the 17th to the 19th centuries and are located in the oldest part of the castle, known as the little castle that was built in the Renaissance by Jean Bullant for Anne de Montmorency, a Constable of France in the 16th century and who had commissioned the construction of the castle. Among the most amusing rooms inside is the Grande Singerie decorated with whimsical, rich illustrations notably, monkeys.

The décor reflects the 18th century taste for the exotic, fashionable during the Regency and at the beginning of the reign of Louis XV. By the windows in the Grande Singerie, humans are depicted serving monkeys. The Prince’s bedroom has retained its original woodwork with hunting motifs from the early 18th century and is ornamented with decorative paintings depicting exotic animals in a decor of oriental pagodas further underscoring the taste for the exotic and faraway lands in the 18th century. The horse, too, is central to life at Chantilly both in the past and today. The domain’s Horse Museum is filled with over two hundred objects recounting the importance of the horse to mankind from Antiquity to the present. Paintings, works of art, equestrian equipment and ample audio-visual displays take the visitor into the world of the horse with two rooms devoted to a fine ensemble of carousel horses. The domain also has a Living Horse museum, which presents equestrian shows and takes the visitor into the domain’s prestigious stables. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

Clockwise from top left: The castle of the Domain of Chantilly; Temple de Vénus (The Temple of Venus); Galerie des Cerfs (the Gallery of the Deer); Ile d’Amour (the Island of Love)

One of the more intriguing buildings at Chantilly is the Jeu de Paume, which housed the courts for playing the ball and court game that originated in France and is sometimes referred to as real tennis, the courts are among the last to have been built in France back in the 19th century. Fashioned in cut stone and topped with a slate roof the building is outfitted with an elegant wrought iron balcony. It contains two distinct entities, the court space itself and a space facing the chateau where players changed and rested up. The Duke d’Aumale transformed it into a museum to exhibit large paintings and today it hosts the domain’s temporary exhibitions. Currently Le Massacre des Innocents, the masterpiece by Nicolas Poussin, is the focal point of a major show underway in the Jeu de Paume, running through to January 7th. From the genesis of the painting to its legacy, the work is juxtaposed with a number of prestigious artworks, on loan from other institutions, by leading 16 W HE RE Pari s I N O V E M B E R 2017

modern and contemporary artists including Pablo Picasso, Francis Bacon and Annette Messager. The Musée Condé of the Domain of Chantilly collection of paintings and drawings by Nicolas Poussin is second only to that of the Louvre in France. His Massacre des Innocents (The Massacre of the Innocents) stands out for its treatment of the subject matter based on the biblical account of King Herod’s order to execute all children under two years of age in Bethlehem, a subject that was very popular in 17th century art. Poussin’s interpretation, showing the violence and brutality of the executioner and the despairing horror of the mother whose pained expression is unforgettable, continues to resonate. Poussin’s painting has been copied by many other artists, including Fragonard and inspired many others including Picasso and Bacon. The show brings together some 50 works underscoring the painting’s legacy and influence through many examples of paintings by modern and contemporary artists.

The castle of the Domain of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd; Temple de vénus (The Temple of Venus) on the grounds of Chantilly Photo © Otte; Galerie des cerfs (the Gallery of the Deer) inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd ; Ile d’amour (the Island of Love) on the grounds of Chantilly Photo © Otte

Day Trip

Cabinet d’angle, corner space inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd ; The Salon violet (The Violet Room) inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd

Cabinet d’Angle (top photo) and The Salon violet (The Violet Room) inside the castle of Chantilly

Meanwhile, one of the highlights of Chantilly is the domain’s superb gardens, with French gardens designed by André Le Nôtre who would design the gardens at Versailles, although those of Chantilly remained his favourites. They are filled with fountains and extensive water basins and house the Grand Canal, which at 2.5 metres long is 600 metres longer than the one at Versailles. The Hamlet in the Anglo-Chinese garden would inspire the one built for Marie-Antoinette at the Trianon and is made up of five small rustic houses. Originally the garden around the Hamlet included landscaped areas related to cooking, there was an orchard with fruit trees, a vine on a mill and the houses were surrounded with small vegetable gardens and fruit bushes. Today, the Anglo-Chinese garden remains one of the domain’s most popular attractions. The 19th century English Garden makes for a fine stroll with its Temple of Venus nestled on a water basin populated by swans and waterfowl.

One of the great treats to indulge in at the domain is the world famous Chantilly whipped cream. Immaculately white, airy, delicate and creamy at the same time, its origins remain uncertain although it is said to have originated in the Hamlet and the Prince of Condé’s dairy. Famous throughout Europe the dairy was accessed by a beautiful courtyard, built with marble and housing basins to churn the butter and porcelain vases filled with cream. The famous whipped cream was served during receptions in the great cottage of the Hamlet where distinguished guests to Chantilly were entertained. The delightful cream can be enjoyed in several spots on the premises including La Capitainerie Restaurant, the Moulin du Hameau Restaurant right in the Hamlet (closes November 13th) and the Café des Ecuries. Château et Domaine de Chantilly 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17

Made in Paris

Made in Paris B By Patricia Valicenti

ustling bistros, dignified boutiques, marvellous monuments and pictureperfect settings are all part of the familiar face of Paris that emerges to the eye, but behind quite a number of facades another story is being played out. Right in the French capital metal is being melted, leather is being tooled, gemstones are being set and silver is being smithed for the French capital is studded with workshops, studios, manufactures and even a factory. And in addition to the established houses and artisans there is room for the new as well with a host of manufactures and workshops and young creators emerging on the Made in Paris landscape.

The oldest of them all is La Monnaie de Paris, the mint, which was created in 864 and has been minting coins for the past 1150 years and is today considered to be the last factory in Paris. It has been located on the Left Bank right on the Seine in a palatial building since the 18th century and has just re-opened after six years of extensive renovations and refurbishments and is now known as 11 Conti-Monnaie de Paris. The site was given the Living Heritage label, a mark of recognition of the French state established to reward French firms for the excellence of their traditions and know-how, in 2011 and here metal is worked, smelted, chased and 18â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE Paris I N O V E M B E R 2017

Edgar wedding dress from the 2018 collection by the Maison Floret ; Uzume broach representing a fan with violet sapphires and tsavorites with green pear-shaped fluorite by Stéphanie Deydier; The Charles hat in bordeaux wool felt with a turquoise band from Poupard & Delaunay

Savoir-Faire

The Edgar wedding dress from the 2018 collection by Maison Floret (opposite page) and the Charles hat in bordeaux wool felt with a turquoise band from Poupard & Delaunay (above)

gilded. Visitors can discover the treasures in the manufacture’s collections as well as the workshops of the mint where some 150 craftsmen are at work minting decorative, art and collector coins, medals and decorations. The site also hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions, events and performances and houses a boutique, a café and a gastronomic restaurant. Weavers and dye-makers have been entrenched in Paris since at least the 17th century and today the crafts carry on in their historic Gobelins site where the arts and craftsmen of the state-owned Mobilier National and the Manufactures des Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie continue to weave fine tapestries and make dyes, mainly for the state and state gifts. It all began back in the 15th century when Jehan Gobelin created a dye works in what is now the 13th arrondissement of Paris where the underground Bièvre River flowed, reputed for its dyeing and colouring properties. In the 17th century King Henry IV established tapestry workshops in buildings rented from the descendants of the Gobelin dyers and the manufactory would become a leading centre of fine tapestry production. During the reign of Louis XIV goldsmiths, metal smiths and cabinetmakers were also installed inside the Gobelins. Today, the tapestry manufacture has a staff of 30 and 15 looms turning out between six and seven pieces annually. Guided tours of the tapestry weaving workshops are held on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays at 1pm for which it is best to book in advance. There is also a gallery on the site hosting temporary exhibitions Known as the jeweller to the queens, the family-owned house of Mellerio dits Meller has supplied jewellery to the European courts since the time of Marie de’ Medici. Today, Laurent Mellerio represents the youngest of the

14th generation of the family at the helm of the house, which is just over 400 years old and is possibly the oldest jewellery house in activity in the world. Specialists in high quality gemstones and made to measure pieces, the house’s jewellery creations, including the high jewellery collections, are still wrought today in their workshops in the heart of Paris above the boutique on Rue de la Paix and where on a daily basis the fashioning of pieces for the collections, for special orders, for unique pieces, repairs and transformations, are underway in much the same way as they have been for generations. Silversmith Nicolas Marischael has been creating fine pieces in his Parisian studio for over 15 years now. He is the custodian of a savoir-faire that has been handed down through three generations. The intense knowhow of gold and silver smithing with chasing, welding at the forge and engraving has been perpetuated by the family since 1924, with the Marischael Orfèvre-Paris house possessing the EPV label, Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage label). Nicolas Marischael joined the family establishment in 1981 when the house’s workshops were still located in the Marais. Today, his workshop and showroom, frequented by collectors, museum representatives, antique dealers and individuals on a quest for state-of-the-art restorations and fine contemporary pieces, is found beneath the lofty arches of the Viaduc des Arts. Paris was historically a perfume-making centre with the perfumers generally located between the Pont des Arts and the Pont Neuf. And nearby right on the Quai du Louvre, a small, luxury house of perfume-making has been established by Chantal Sanier, not far from those perfumers of yore. Her w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

Odeur de Sainteté, meaning scents of sanctity, perfumes renew with the traditions of old-fashioned perfume-making before synthetic molecules arrived on the horizon and so she elaborates her perfumes using only extracts of aromatic plants harkening back to the perfumes that were produced hundreds of years ago. The nine fragrances of Odeur de Sainteté have evocative names like Marie Madeleine (Mary Magdalene) or Etat de Grâce (State of Grace) and are bottled in blown glass flasks, which are made of amber glass that is used for medicinal preparations for the compositions must not be exposed to light. The house has a dedicated boutique in the Palais Royal but you can also make an appointment at the perfumer’s workshop on the Quai du Louvre. Stéphanie Deydier has been fashioning one of a kind jewels in Paris since 2010. Working with precious materials in her studio in the heart of the Marais on Rue du Temple, she draws her inspiration from her travels around the world, notably to Asia. After studying law, art history and gemmology she began her working career in 2007 in Christie’s jewellery department. Diamonds, rubies, tourmalines, sapphires and aquamarines seemingly come to life in her creations. Among the unique pieces one finds in her Legends of Yazhou collection is a necklace with 20 strands of fresh water pearls held together by two Buddhas in onyx encircled with diamonds while violet sapphires pave a fan brooch enhanced with a pear-shaped green fluorite, the luminous stone that gave its name to the phenomenon of fluorescence. For ultimate chic, a wedding dress made in the heart of Paris can be found in a studio/boutique tucked away in the 10th arrondissement of the city. The Maison Floret has been fashioning fine wedding dresses for a flourishing three years now and the designer, Sidonie Floret works with carefully selected aristocratic fabrics and materials like Calais lace, jacquard and Mikado silk. Two appointments are essential for a unique wedding dress to emerge with the initial visit an opportunity to discover the various styles and to define the shapes and fabrics for the dress, while the second is for taking measures and determining the modifications. These are followed by two fitting sessions and you need to allow six months for a piece that is already in the collection and at least 8 months for a unique piece. 20 W HE RE Paris I N O V E M B E R 2017

The milliner house of Poupard & Delaunay has a workshop and showroom in the elegant Batignolles neighbourhood of Paris. The house perpetuates a unique ancestral know-how dating back to the end of the 18th century when a certain Napoleon Bonaparte purchased his famous bicorn hat fashioned by Poupard. Poupard & Delaunay was born in 1811 and in 2013 the Langlois family decided to give the house a new impetus while remaining faithful to the house’s savoir-faire and craft traditions. The house’s particularity is that its creations are numbered and brought out in a limited series of 10 pieces, and for the ultimate in exclusive, the house does made-to-measure pieces. A closely guarded and new secret is found in northern Paris in the shoemaking workshop of Atelier du Tranchet, tranchet being the French word for a skiving knife, the tool that is essential for cutting leather. Christophe Corthay sculpts shoes for men while Christophe Algans sculpts shoes for women, all made-to-measure. The shoes at Atelier du Tranchet are fashioned from the finest of materials, python and crocodile, whose origins are strictly controlled and an entire skin or hide is used for a single pair of shoes, and the house’s patinas are suave, powerful and captivating. The taking of measurements and fittings are conducted exclusively by the two craftsmen with a made-to-measure pair taking anywhere between 6 to 9 months to be fashioned.

Tools used at the Monnaie de Paris Photo © Monnaie de Paris Jean-Marc Martin; The silversmith Nicolas Marischael crafting a piece in his workshop Photo © Marischael; Earrings from the Foglio high jewellery collection of Mellerio dits Meller with tsavorites and diamonds © Mellerio dits Meller

Savoir-Faire

jewellery collection Giardino choker with Isola Madre motif with blue-green tourmaline, tsavorites, pink sapphires, garnets and diamonds, transformable into a brooch or pendant © Mellerio dits Meller

Shoe in blue crocodile with mini shoe of the same model from the Atelier du Tranchet Photo © Atelier du Tranchet; Workshop at the Manufacture des Gobelins Photo © Thibaut Chapotot; The Quai du Louvre workshop of Chantal Sanier where the Odeur De Sainteté perfumes are made. Photo © Agence Les Muses; Mellerio dits Meller high

Opposite Page (clockwise from top left): Tools used at the Monnaie de Paris; The silversmith Nicolas Marischael crafting a piece in his workshop; Earrings from the Foglio high jewellery collection of Mellerio dits Meller with tsavorites and diamonds. This Page (clockwise from top left): Shoe in blue crocodile with mini shoe of the same model from the Atelier du Tranchet; Workshop at the Manufacture des Gobelins; The Quai du Louvre workshop of Chantal Sanier where the Odeur de Sainteté perfumes are made; Mellerio dits Meller high jewellery collection Giardino choker with Isola Madre motif with blue-green tourmaline, tsavorites, pink sapphires, garnets and diamonds, which can be transformed into a brooch or pendant

Address Book 11 Conti-Monnaie de Paris 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01 40 46 56 66

Marischael Orfèvre-Paris Viaduc des Arts, 87 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01 42 78 53 67

Atelier du Tranchet 128 blvd Macdonald (19th), 01 42 45 86 53

Mellerio dits Meller 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 57 53

Maison Floret By appointment 1 Cité Riverin (10th), 01 71 26 79 09

Odeur de Sainteté 14 Galerie de Montpensier (1st)/22 Quai du Louvre (1st) For the workshop call 06 11 94 15 85

Mobilier National et des Manufactures des Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie 42 ave des Gobelins (13th), 01 44 08 53 49 Individual guided tours of the Manufactures, information and reservations at Cultival call 08 25 05 44 05

Poupard & Delaunay 15 rue Brochant (17th), 09 84 13 11 80 Stéphanie Deydier By appointment 06 20 55 19 71

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The Guide

Shopping

By Sandra Iskander

Turn to page 25 for our Pretty in Pink looks

22 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Shopping

For Her

CK’s Americana Step back into 1970’s America with Calvin Klein’s current collection. With Raf Simons at the helm, the designer’s debut collection for the fashion house is a nod to Americana, complete with double denim and cowboy boots. Tapping into the old for the new, the collection features tailored pants, form-fitting shirts and a whole lot of casual attitude. Calvin Klein Boutique 54 rue Etienne Marcel (2nd), 01 42 60 38 77

Statement Accessories Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest autumn/winter collection takes inspiration from the 20s and 30s when the art of cabinet-making and mineral processing gave life to precious artefacts. Taking its name from a mineral, the Malachite collection includes pieces that glow with a myriad of green offsetting the carving appearance of the jewellery. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51

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Shopping Jewellery

Blue is the New Red at RedLine The RedLine red bracelet has become a cult accessory with fashionistas around the world while Colette is known internationally as the quintessentially avant-garde boutique in the fashion capital, so it is no surprise that two of Paris’s favourite names in fashion have come together. Creating a limited edition collection, RedLine has brought Colette’s signature blue hue to our jewellery boxes with its Illusion and Ange bracelets, which are not only made using a blue string but are also designed with 18-carat blue gold. The bracelets are sold exclusively at Colette and not only make a fabulous statement piece but a special souvenir from Colette, which is closing its doors in December. Colette 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 33 90

Couture Jewellery Tasaki, the jewellery house famous for its graphic designs and use of pearls recently appointed fashion designer Prabal Gurung as its artistic director, and with a new designer comes a new line of fine jewellery for the house. The Tasaki Atelier collection was unveiled during New York Fashion Week at the designer’s show, and demonstrates the elegant marriage between fashion and jewellery. The pieces evoke movement, recalling fluid lines in couture designs, while putting on show the jewellery house’s fine pearls and exceptional diamonds. Tasaki Boutique The Ritz Hotel 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 36 33 00 24 W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Shopping

For Her

Pretty in Pink

6 9

1 Giambattista Valli, 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 83 62 09 04 2 Ralph & Russo, 29 rue François Ier (2nd floor) (8th), 06 61 63 48 49 3 Sawtay, 37 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 45 44 88 49 4 Les Néréides, 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 09 81 75 78 59 5 I.D. Sarrieri, Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 6 Marly, 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01 85 09 49 49 7 Chatelles, 94 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 20 46 8 Selima Optique, 14 rue de Birague (4th), 01 47 63 23 39 9 Garden Glory, available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

Shopping For Him

A Pop-Up Look Shop the new Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 men’s collection at the Rochas pop-up boutique. Located on the exclusive Rue Saint-Honoré, the boutique showcases the latest collection, which elegantly combines sophisticated and tailored lines with more rock ‘n’ roll-inspired details. Voluminous knits, leather pants and metallic detailing all come together to create the quintessentially fashion-forward look for any gentleman who dares with fashion. Rochas Pop-Up Boutique 420 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 08 49 63

To the Sea The house of Breguet launched this year an exclusive model, the sporty yet elegant Marine Equation Marchante 5887 marking a new era in Breguet’s contemporary Marine collection. The timepiece is outfitted with the equation of time complication, one of the rarest of timepiece complications for it displays the difference between mean solar time (that of man) that corresponds to standard hours and minutes and true solar time (that of nature), the actual solar hours and minutes. The watch indicates both standard time and solar time through two separate minute hands with the running solar hand adorned with a facetted solar sun. Complementing the running equation complication is a perpetual calendar featuring the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. The self-winding watch also features an intriguing 60-second tourbillon complication, a power reserve of 80 hours and is waterproof to 100 meters. The watch is available in a case of platinum with a blue dial in gold or in an 18k rose gold case with the dial in silvered gold. - P.V. Breguet Boutique 6 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 47 03 65 00 26 W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Shopping For Him

Flying Pens Synonymous with beautiful writing instruments, Montblanc has been responsible for entrancing penmanship over the years and the luxury house continuous its tradition in offering collectors beautifully crafted pens with its latest addition to the Writers Edition. Inspired by Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger, the celebrated French writer and pilot, the Writers Edition Antoine Saint-Exupéry limited edition collection features a fountain pen that draws from the writer’s Caudron Simoun plane and his novel Night Flight to create a graphically detailed pen while showing the sky as seen by him on the 1st of November 1929 at 11pm when he conducted Aéropostale’s flight. The pen also features engravings of the geographic positions of cities important to the writer while the star engraved on the nib is a nod to The Little Prince, the writer’s most famous work. Montblanc Boutique 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 76 74 91 50

Racing Fashion It is a partnership that has proven successful over the years and so it is no surprise that fashion brand Hackett is again collaborating with Aston Martin on a capsule collection. Marking the third capsule collection, the autumn/ winter 2017/2018 Aston Martin by Hackett collection is inspired by both brands’ eye for detail and luxury, bringing gentlemen 19 pieces to integrate into their wardrobe. The capsule collection is made up of jackets, shirts and blazers tailored with a sophisticated nod to the famous cars with the use of laser to create comfortable yet elegant designs. Hackett Boutique 58 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 49 18 93 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 27

Shopping For Him

The Tourist

1 Christian Lacroix, Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 2 Commune de Paris, 19 rue Commines (3rd), 09 81 90 13 37 3 Calvin Klein, Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 4 Huawei, Available at Fnac, Galerie du Claridge, 74 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 08 25 02 00 20 5 Le Coq Sportif, 121 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 09 80 51 50 25 6 Hasselblad, Available at Objectif Bastille, 11 rue Jules César (12th), 01 43 43 57 38 7 Audio Technica, 11 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01 43 72 82 82

28 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Shopping Beauty

Beautiful brows They say the eyes are the windows to the soul so make sure yours are framed beautifully, starting with well-groomed eyebrows.

Nourish and hydrate your brows with Chado’s Huile Cristal, a nourishing oil that helps strengthen your eyebrows. Available at Printemps

Fill in any patches to create the perfect brow with Benefit’s Foolproof Brow Powder. The powder is easy to use and helps you achieve natural-looking brows. Available at Sephora

30 W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

To help achieve a fuller brow and promote hair growth use Melvita’s organic Castor Oil. Melvita Boutique 1 rue Auber (9th), 01 42 65 27 52

Blend your own brow colour with Zoeva’s Brow Spectrum Palette. The brow kit comes with 9 long-wearing powders in different finishes including matt and satin to help you create your bespoke shade making sure your eyebrows look as natural or as intense as you want them. Rituals Boutique Available at Sephora

Create the perfect arch by using Too Faced’s Chocolate Brow-nie brow pencil. The waterproof formula not only smells like chocolate but it also conditions your eyebrows while helping you define your brows. Available at Sephora

For a more striking look opt for a semi-permanent eyebrow treatment at Les Cils de Marie where you can fill in any patches or create a fuller brow in just one hour. Les Cils de Marie Beauty Salon 110 rue de la Boétie (8th), 06 58 07 77 79

Shopping

Spas

A Majestic Facelift As the beauty therapist’s fingers delicately dance on your face working in Valmont’s latest mask, Masque Majestueux, from the luxury brand’s new L’Elixir des Glaciers skincare range, let yourself go and embrace the sleepy state taking over. The Soin Majestueux facial is 90 minutes of relaxation with the treatment leaving your skin hydrated, nourished and with a glow. Working to lift your facial muscles, the treatment aims to smooth fine lines while applying the Japanese Kobido massage technique that uses pressure on your acupuncture points to promote in-depth rejuvenation. While the mask is working its magic the therapist treats you to a head massage, further taking you into the relaxation cloud that has you floating on air. Ideally book this treatment at the end of the day to avoid applying make-up afterwards to prolong the benefits of the facial for as long as possible without polluting your skin or upon landing in Paris to rejuvenate it after your flight. Spa Valmont Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

Spa Valmont © Guillaume de Laubier

Spa Day Forget the world for two hours while you enjoy a traditional Thai massage at the hands of WAT PO-trained therapists at Ban Thaï Spa. Conveniently located between Place du Trocadéro and Avenue des Champs-Elysées, the spa is an ideal treat after a day of intense shopping and sightseeing. Taking you on a relaxing voyage through relaxing music and sensual scents, the spa is both welcoming and relaxing from the moment you enter it. Single and double massage rooms allow guests to enjoy a massage solo or with a partner or friend, and with the spa open daily from 11am to 9pm you can easily unwind at any time of the day. Choose a foot massage to relieve you from aching feet from walking around all day or opt for the traditional Thai massage, which focuses on releasing tension by combining acupressure and yoga positions. Ban Thaï Spa 25 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01 43 59 39 39 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

Shopping

For Children

Skater Kids 1

5 7

1 Little Marc Jacobs, Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 2 DKNY, Available at Kids Around Boutique, 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 05 19 50 3 Hugo Boss, 115 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40 4 Molo, Available at Galeries Lafayette 5 Frescobol Carioca, Available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 6 Karl Lagerfeld Kids, Available at Kids Around Boutique 7 Timberland, Available at Kids Around Boutique 8 Zadig & Voltaire, 22 rue de Turenne (4th), 01 42 71 81 12

ADVERTORIAL

Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th (M° Félix Faure) Tel: 01 45 58 17 44 32 W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Your ultimate Parisian shoPPing experience

Come and find us at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

Shopping Fashion

Flying Fashion

Nuri wears Etro pants All Saints shirt Hugo Boss coat Unützer shoes Hartmann suitcase Gianni wears Michael Kors pants and pullover De Fursac coat Salvatore Ferragamo shoes 34 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Pierrick Patarin Make-Up Artist & Hairstylist: Caroline Nguyen Models: Nuri Son from Crystal Model Management and Gianni Giardinelli from Marilyn Agency Special thanks to Paris Aéroport: Paris – Charles de Gaulle w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

Giorgio Armani pants and jacket Balibaris t-shirt

36 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Roland Mouret top and bag All Saints cropped jeans Galeries Lafayette cap Gia Couture mules (Available at Le Bon MarchĂŠ) Leonard coat Hartmann suitcase w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 37

38 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Michael Kors jeans and trench coat Moreau bag Hartmann suitcase Gucci watch Giuseppe Zanotti shoes

Gianni wears Brunello Cucinelli jeans De Fursac trench coat All Saints shoes Salvatore Ferragamo bag Tumi suitcase

Nuri wears Brunello Cucinelli pants Michael Kors coat Giuseppe Zanotti boots Danse Lente bag (Available at Le Bon MarchĂŠ) Samsonite suitcase w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 39

40 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Gianni wears Mr Porter pants Ungaro jacket YSL glasses Nuri wears Giorgio Armani pants and coat Chiara Ferragni t-shirt (Available at Le Bon MarchĂŠ) Emmanuelle Zysman necklace

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 41

Ungaro jeans Etro pullover Hugo Boss coat Tumi passport holder

42â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W H E R E Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Yumi Katsura jacket David Yurman ring HTC mobile phone

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

Books & music

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

BACCArAt

| Home

44 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017 -

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

clothing: men & Women Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

L’ArtisAn PArfumeur

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

depArtment stores & shopping centres

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),

09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

eye WeAr

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

home

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (17th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Beauty Spas & Products

Baccarat ©Laurent Parrault

Accessories

shopping

Address Book

JeWellery & WAtches

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),

A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th),

01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra

CHOPArD

Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

shoes

lingerie

Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th),

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

luggAge And BAgs

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

| Jewellery & Watches

01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

eDen PArk

| Clothing: Men & Women w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 45

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT IE

AVE

SNI

NORÉ

OÉT

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

BOUR

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

ATHU

DES M

ES MA T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D S

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling E SÈZE

•Anne Fontaine

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

Marella

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ES MA

•

• Eres • Swarovski

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UC

APUC

INE S

DES C

RUE

Place Vendôme

INES

EVA

IG LI O N E

• Burma Ciro pour

RUE D

NORÉ

RINS

Église de la Madeleine

R U E CA ST

RUE TRONCHET

46 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Lauren • Lancaster Kenzo •Kate spade • • Max Mara

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

MADELEINE

• •• •Wempe Ralph•

ULE

•

• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

RUE DE RIVOLI

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

UÉP

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

•

LAULHÈRE

ROQ

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Yohji Yamamoto

This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.

•

CONCORDE

•

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

SHOP STOP

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla

•• •

Lanvin

•

Place de la Concorde

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

SSM

RUE

RUE DE SURÈNE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

’

O AST

BLV

INE

SHOP STOP

MANN

ÉS

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ROQ

RUE

B AM

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent • Crockett Dandys • Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy UIER • Cartier • RUE PASQ Alessi Burberry Hermès • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

R D H A U SS

ESN

OÉT

RU E DE DU RA

ESN

B O U LE VA

MIR

IÈV

• Loriblu

NT-HO

IRO

E ED

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES

G SAI

M DE

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

E ED

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

Pierre Cardin

Gringoire Joaillier

•

WEMPE

OÉT

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

CIER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

PER

NUE

•

• Sothys

• Christie’s

MIROMESNIL RU

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available

SHOP STOP

to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

MICHAEL KORSHAMBURG

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. 279 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 36 44 40 www.michaelkors.com

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

•

Antiquités

• Français O T • Gorky H P

LEI NE

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

RUE DE RIVOLI

• De Fursac

• Gresley

ivk

Acaba •

L’O

RUE RICHELIEU

■

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

•D

eli

• Kam’s

id •A •Q ier L nna u R e

N VE

Pie

•

Bonpoint IRO

RUE DU LOUVR E

Hartford

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

• •

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

•

Place des Victoires

’AB

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

0039 Italy

by Terry Xavier Lust

Aïzea

Galerie Vivienne

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

RUE VIVIENNE

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo

• • •

ÉR

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

CIN

’OP

48 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

18 rue Duphot - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 22 76 gorky@gorkyantiq.com www.gorkyantiq.com

L DE

•Cotélac

PALAIS ROYAL

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

Galerie de Valois

GORKY ANTIQUITÉS

• Opéra Garnier

•

Galerie de Montpensier

A member of the Syndicat National des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités specialises in Napoleon III, Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque, Art Déco, Retro, signed jewellery and Russian pieces. After 30 years at the Louvre des Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités opened its new gallery boutique in the 1st arrondissement in 2016.

Printemps du Louvre

Garel

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

•

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

•

• RedLine

Garland

RUE DE LA PA IX •

•Christian Dior •M.A.C

FreyWille

SHOP STOP

• Akillis

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

Vendôme

•Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat • Burma •Stuart Weitzman • Balenciaga

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

RUE S A IN T -H

Ami • Missoni• Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • La Prairie •

Carrousel du Louvre

Place

RUE S A IN T -H

•

6 rue Saint Florentin - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 43 43 www.stephaniecesaire.com

•

Goyard • •Dubail Church’s• Paule Ka• TUILERIES Jack Russell

CÉSAIRE

IG LI ON E

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com

Structured like architectural masterpieces, cut like couture creations, Stéphanie Césaire’s bags are made with splendid leathers by the best artisans of French luxury. The designer presents her bags, alluring like dresses, in her boutique full of flair and character.

•

Marella

Le Jacquard

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi• Parakian Paris •RU E

• Wempe • Vertu • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

Césaire

MADELEINE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

Espace Cachemire

•

■

• Oliver Grant

•

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

LAULHÈRE

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

•

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

▼

Open from Monday to Saturday: 10am-7.30pm Sunday: 12:30pm-6:30pm 24 Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 35 81 www.gresley.fr

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

NUE

CEA

LLOT AV

MA R UE

OT UE EN AV

• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

Kenzo

PIER

•

GE NUE

•

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE FR

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

RUE DE PONTHIEU

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

AVE

• Marionnaud Paris

•

• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier UE EN • • RUE P •Les Suites • AV Arije • IERRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi V R R E ON • Tea • Rolex Scabal • GEORG • Chaumet Dubail NUE • Beretta Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • • RUE MA • Oud Burma • Sicis • Franck RBEUF • •Tom FordRUE PI •Carvil ERR Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE • RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR R • Vionnet É U MOI E M• • Smalto By Marie&Gas Bijoux LLE A Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Caron AVE • Thomas • • Harry N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Lacoste •

E V Hermes Omega

ORG

ERB

SHOP STOP

RUE BALZAC

Armani Collezioni RE 1 ER DE S

•

• Milady

C AR

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

RUE

ALILÉ

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

ENU

A EDL

RUE G

IÉN E D’

EM AR CEA

D’IÉ

OÉT

• J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver

ELT

EJ EA NG OU

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

1ER

UE F

NUE

AVE

IN NKL

N AVE

•Adidas Meet the French

•

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

EVE

OOS

D.R

RAN

KLIN

FRA

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

50 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

COURS

12/14 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 53 14 94 www.meet-the-french.com

NFÉRENCE

Meet the French is not only an exceptional chauffeur service but the company with 85 years of experience also offers its elite clientele a bespoke service. While standard trips are easily organised, the company prides itself on also organising guided tours to discover France’s abundance of savoir-faire.

PORT DE LA CO

MEET THE FRENCH

FRI

Maison Baccarat

NUE

AVE

AHO

■

AVE

18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 www.jlcopticien.com

D’IÉ

AV EN U

AC M

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

M NUE

NUE AVE

ALILÉ

RUE DE CHAI

In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, Mykita, Dior, Chanel, Oliver Peoples and more...

DOUX

RUE G Place des États-Unis

SHOP STOP

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER

Arc de Triomphe

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

ARABIAN OUD

TOR

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

VIC

AVENUE KLÉBER

On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

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SHOP STOP

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme

SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

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Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Mode T RUE DE

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J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités Tommy Hedgren • B O N Hilfiger AM

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Bucherer

Tag Heuer Montblanc

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Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • C Repetto • E Poiray U R Corthay Y Garland • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget Yumi Katsura • Diesel V • Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • FreyWille • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior ÈSE • M.A.C Ami • • • •Frank Namani Bonpoint Colette • Penhaligon’s • Mulberry • RU

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

BUCHERER PARIS In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

IÉR

EM É

SHOP STOP

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

▼

At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

Opéra Garnier

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

ACABA

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

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MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

RUE MOG ADOR

Printemps Homme

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Galeries du Diamant •

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 51

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

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Village Saint Paul ■

Mémorial de la Shoah

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

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Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

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•Pierre Boisset •Psyché

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Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier

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Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch El Ganso

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CROCKETT & JONES

52 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

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16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com

RU E DE LA

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford ➞ Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE Emile Lafaurie • DES FRAN Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • Chanel OIS • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • ■ RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker URGEOIS Muji • • •Mademoiselle •• •• ➞ Iro • Essentiel Jeanne Michael • • • • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston • • Eres Ekyog •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX ea y • t IZIPIZI i T err se • •Maje• • sm d P reu Bimba y Lola u Iris Cantabri e Devernois • C K Fr e Maison Chanel • • • • L Créa Concept Alain Mikli • L’Argenterie • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault R O SI ER • • • Heschung• S • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE El Ganso • DE JARENTE Cire Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• Trudon • K.Jacques • • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Ugg • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • Mode en Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • •Maje BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi Chevignon• • TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E MX • SAINT-PAUL • RIVOLI E • Finsbury RUE D • Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier • • IVOLI R E D E

HOTEL DE VILLE

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for men and women is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship and custom-made service.

Gloss

• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D Cologne French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• R Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Kenzo • Denicourt DE E Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire U R • •-CL • Saint James Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T APC Calais • S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Weekday• • Customellow • Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Musée National Bruno •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • • Le Mont Saint Michel Magnanni • La Fée Maraboutée RU E DE S 4 • FI LS • Consuelo Zoelly

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56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

Nicolaï

APC

ENN

Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man. Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

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• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

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Kate Lee

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• Ron Dorff IE March La.B • • Mes Demoiselles • RU E DE BR ET AG NE Popelini •

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FILLES DU CALVAIRE

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La Boutique Extraordinaire

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Empreintes

The Louis Quatorze and Castelbajac Paris Maisons have joined forces for a sunny and ecological collaboration. Monogrammed scarves, bags, kits exclusively for the occasion, available since September 25. 106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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• John Lobb Gallais • Bang DS • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • • Karl Lagerfeld IN • Aubercy • AR

Atelier Valentin

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11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com 54 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

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Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

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• L’Occitane • Lacoste

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MONTPARNASSE RIVE GAUCHE

• Fabrice

SHOP STOP

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian RUE U • Façonnable L • E VA DE L Louboutin Stella • ’A B Louis RD B AY • SAI • Agent Luna Etro • E Vuitton N T • Provocateur G • • ERM Sonia • Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • Lejaby• • • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. Cartier • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N • Hackett• Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille Montblanc • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Dot-Drops • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega Saint Michel Berluti • RES V • É S E Saint D • • • E RUE DE BABYLONE • RU Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper •Wille • SU LP IC E T• Frey IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès Robert Eres • • ULPICE Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon •Lise Loxwood S & Voltaire E Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte

S PA IL ARD RA

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

EJ AC

Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

DOT-DROPS®

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• Vanier

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JLC Opticien RUE DU BAC

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Ofée . • Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle Gérard • Darel

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IVE

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 04 28 www.ateliervalentin-paris.com

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ATELIER VALENTIN Atelier Valentin, situated in the heart of Saint-Germain, offers a large selection of glasses and sunglasses, all handcrafted by the most distinguished designers and brands in the world, including Francis Klein, Anne & Valentin, Mykita and Olivier Goldsmith (pictured above). The boutique offers customers original and unique glasses, ensuring you stand out in a crowd.

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Musée d’Orsay

Where Paris Promotion

An artful

JOURNEY A

treasure trove of art and archaeology is waiting to be discovered in the 110 galleries that form the Carré Rive Gauche, an association of art and antique dealers founded 40 years ago. It is a diverse and rich world recounting a history of over 7,000 years of art, antiques and the decorative arts through exceptional pieces. Visitors and collectors can discover museum-quality pieces ranging from the arts of the Far East, of Antiquity, of Europe and beyond. There are items from the world of science, textiles and even opiumrelated objects. From ceramics to glassware, to contemporary and modern art, the elegant choices are endless and the galleries provide a

veritable feast for decorators. Looking for a Tiffany lamp, a 17th century porcelain vase from China decorated with dragons, a Planetarium clock for the mantle, these are among the objects to be found in the galleries of the Carré Rive Gauche with the gallery owners on hand to tell you about them. The galleries are located in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, which with its mansions and quaint streets was historically favoured by illustrious personalities in the world of arts including Charles Baudelaire, Alexandre Dumas and Amedeo Modigliani. Jean-Auguste Ingres had his studio at 17 quai Voltaire and Serge Gainsbourg composed his celebrated songs at 5 bis rue de Verneuil while Dominique

Vivant Denon, the first director of the Louvre, took up lodgings at 9 quai Voltaire back in the early 19th century. The association also has a philanthropic arm, the Fonds de dotation Carré Rive Gauche, which contributes to the conservation and restoration of cultural heritage.

The galleries are generally open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 7pm. www.carrerivegauche.com Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 55

The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Irving Penn, Girl with Tobacco on Tongue (Mary Jane Russell), New York, 1951, épreuve gélatino-argentique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,, Promised Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation © Condé Nast

Visit the Grand Palais to see a retrospective of Irving Penn’s work (opposite page) 56 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

arts&attractions

Paul Signac (French, 1863–1935). Opus 217. Against the Enamel of a Background Rhythmic with Beats and Angles, Tones, and Tints, Portrait of M. Félix Fénéon in 1890, 1890, Oil on canvas 29 x 36 1/2” (73.5 x 92.5 cm). Fractional gift of Mr. and Mrs. David Rockefeller 85.1991 © Adagp, Paris, 2017 ; Irving Penn, Rochas Mermaid Dress (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), Paris, 1950, épreuve au platine-palladium, 1980, 50,5 x 50,2 cm, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation © Condé Nast

Exhibitions

A Memorable Moment with the MoMA A landmark exhibition is being played out at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of town. Entitled Etre Moderne: Le MoMA à Paris (Being Modern, the MoMA in Paris), the exhibition showcases a selection of 200 works from the unparalleled collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The show is curated jointly by the MoMA and the Fondation Louis Vuitton and presents a selection of works in myriad mediums, from all six of MoMA’s departments, reflecting the history of the institution and its way of collecting. The show brings together paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs, films, media works, performances as well as architecture and design objects, tracing the evolution and scope of the museum’s collection. Etre Moderne features major works by artists including Max Beckmann, Alexander Calder, Paul Cézanne, Marcel Duchamp, Walker Evans, Jasper Johns, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Gustav Klimt, Yayoi Kusama, René Magritte, Pablo Picasso and Paul Signac. Showing through to March 5th 8 ave Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00

Picture Perfect Penn The Grand Palais is hosting a major retrospective devoted to Irving Penn, who is regarded as one of the greatest photographers of the 20th century. Featuring over 240 photographic prints, all produced by the artist himself, and a selection of graphic works, the show takes a look at 70 years of the American artist’s career. The full range of subjects tackled by the photographer are all represented ranging from fashion to the still life, portraits, nudes, street scenes and his iconic Small Trade series photographed at the beginning of the 1950s in Paris, London and New York. His works were marked by simplicity, minimalism and an astonishing rigour from the studio to the darkroom where Penn perfected his unique photographic prints. The show offers a chronological and thematic exploration of his work starting with street scenes from Philadelphia and New York moving onto Europe devastated by war into the portraits and fashion photography. Showing through to January 29th 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition: 16th of November - 7th of December

CHEN Jiang-Hong MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 58 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

The life and legend of Maria Callas are being played out in an exhibition entitled Maria by Callas marking the 40th anniversary of the singer’s death. The show, being held at the new musical and cultural venue, La Seine Musicale, brings together photographs, private movies shot in Super 8 film, private recordings of her concerts, letters, rare images of interviews and backstage at her performances as well as stage costumes. There are recordings of interviews, both visual and audio, of Maria Callas and with those that knew her including Alain Delon and Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. Five thousand photographs trace her life from childhood to her early beginnings on stage to the farewell tour of 1973/1974 as well as her vacations during the jet set years. The visit is accompanied by her voice through interviews and recordings. Showing through to December 14th 1 Cours de Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00

Maria Callas with Marilyn Monroe at the birthday of JFK 1962 Photo © Fonds-de-Dotation-Maria-Callas

A Call from the Callas

Lita CabeLLut

Army of PoetS

BerNarD, 2017 - Mixed media on canvas, 230 x 200 cm - 90.5 x 78.7 in.

17 November - 8 December 2017

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00

•

paris@operagallery.com • operagallery.com

NEW YORK · MIAMI · ASPEN · LONDON · PARIS · MONACO · GENEVA · DUBAI · BEIRUT · HONG KONG · SINGAPORE · SEOUL

arts&attractions Exhibitions

The celebrated photo gallery, Galerie Agathe Gaillard, has re-opened its doors in style with a group exhibition devoted to beauty. Entitled Hommage à la Beauté (Tribute to Beauty), the show brings together myriad works by, among others, Edouard Boubat, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier and Marc Riboud. Diverse types of beauty are represented in the photographs ranging from the beauty of the body to that of nature, of materials like stone, but also another kind of beauty that of mystery, of silence, of being. There is the imposing picture of Bianca Jagger by Erica Lennard, a graceful dervish by Giorgia Fiorio, and an anonymous neckline by Luc Choquer. Agathe Gaillard opened her gallery in the Marais in 1975, the first gallery in France devoted to photography and which showcased and supported the work of major photographers including Henri Cartier- Bresson and Hervé Guibert. Today the gallery, under new ownership and directed by Fiona Sanjabi, continues to exhibit the gallery’s historic photographers and vintage prints as well as contemporary photographers. Showing through to November 18th 3 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01 42 77 38 24

Worlds of Dreams The dream-like, highly original and simply beautiful shop windows created by Leïla Menchari for the house of Hermès are being honoured with an exhibition presented by Hermès entitled Hermès à tire-d’aile-Les Mondes de Leïla Menchari at the Grand Palais. “Draw for me your dreams,” requested Annie Beaumel, who was in charge of the store windows for Hermès back in 1961 when Leïla Menchari first came to Hermès. And draw dreams she did from 1978 to 2013 when she would imagine, draw and create the decors of the windows of the celebrated Parisian saddler. Travelling through a series of eight tableaux the visitor can discover the extraordinary and generous universe of Leïla Menchari created with the complicity of artists from all horizons ranging from painters, to sculptors to mosaic artists, stonecutters and more. “I always wanted for it to be authentic, sincere,” she says, “Sometimes I was surrealist, I loved that, but always with real things, things that people could recognise. It had to be at once unexpected, out of the ordinary, surprising, something that dialogued with the passers-by.” From November 8th through to December 3 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 60 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Bianca Jagger Photo © Erica Lennard; Hermès window Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the Grande window, Spring-Summer 1995, by Leïla Menchari with Christian Renonciat Photo ©Guillaume de Laubier

On Beautiful

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Les 12 travaux d’Astérix de Goscinny et Uderzo. Distribution DARGAUD FILMS. ©1976 – Dargaud Films Productions – René Goscinny – Albert Uderzo; Lucky Luke ©Lucky comics, 2017; René Goscinny and John Wayne - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés; Albert Uderzo et René Goscin - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés

GOSCINNY, THE GRAND

a Cinémathèque française is paying tribute to the French comic book writer René Goscinny the author of amongst other works Lucky Luke and Asterix, in an exhibition entitled Goscinny and the Cinema, Asterix, Lucky Luke and Company. The show, being held 40 years after his death, demonstrates the influence cinema had on his work as well as taking a look into the movies that he made himself. The show underscores how the cinema and its most mainstream genres like westerns, peplums and burlesque, were parodied and magnified by a creator who drew inspiration from his immense knowledge of cinema. Before launching into filmmaking in his own right when he created the Studios Idéfix in 1974, Goscinny was the gagman for Bourvil, the scriptwriter for television dramas for Jean Rochefort and the screenwriter for his friend Pierre Tchernia for cult films like Le Viager and The Holes. With his own films produced at the Studios Idéfix like The Twelve Tasks of Asterix and Lucky Luke, he contributed greatly to the inception of the French school of animated cinema. “I left for the United States with the hope of working for Walt Disney, but Walt Disney didn’t know it,” Goscinny once said,” I admire Walt Disney, it was his creations that inspired me to

do what I do.” It was in Buenos Aires where the Paris-born Goscinny grew up that he discovered classics of American cinema like Laurel & Hardy and Buster Keaton. The exhibition also shows how the characters of Goscinny and his fellow creators, among them Uderzo and Sempé continued their career on the silver screen through other producers and filmmakers turning characters like Asterix and Obelisk, Lucky Luke, Petit Nicolas and Iznogoud into international stars. Goscinny was nicknamed Walt Goscinny by his friend Gotlib and today one of the avenues that leads up to Disneyland Paris is named avenue René Goscinny. The exhibition is made up of five sections and takes the visitor on a journey into the artist’s life and works.

La Cinémathèque française is home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

Exhibition from October 4th through to March 4th 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

The Twelve Tasks of Asterix by René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo, 1976. René Goscinny and John Wayne in the offices of the comics magazine Pilote, published in the 58th issue of Pilote on December 1st, 1960. Albert Uderzo and René Goscinny at the soirée for the premiere of Astérix the Gaulois at Maxim’s on November 15th, 1967 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 61

arts&attractions

The Life and Times of Marie Curie

n exhibition entitled Marie Curie a Woman in the Panthéon is being held, fittingly, in the Panthéon, paying tribute to the great savant who was born 150 years ago on November 7th, 1867. The show offers a glimpse into Marie Curie’s personal life as well as a backstage view onto her scientific work. She would receive the Nobel Prize, twice, in 1903 for Physics (shared with her husband Pierre Curie and Antoine Henri Becquerel) and for Chemistry in 1911. Recognised as one of the greatest scholars of her age, she remains today one of the best-known scientists in the world. She would become, in 1995, the first woman to enter the Pantheon, where eminent personalities are buried in the crypt, on her own merits. The exhibition starts off with a prologue followed by five thematic segments exploring her life and works. A wide panorama of objects and archives have been assembled for the show including scientific instruments, period documents and personal items recounting the family life of Marie Curie and the inner workings of the Institut du Radium, today the Institut Curie. The Institut du Radium was born in 1909 of the will of Marie Curie and the importance of a cause, the fight against cancer. At the time, the Institut du Radium housed the Curie laboratory, under the direction of Marie Curie, devoted to research in Chemistry and Physics and, too, the Pasteur laboratory under the direction of Claudius Regaud dedicated to the biological effects and medical applications of radioactivity. The two scientists proposed a project of development for the Institut du Radium in which research and therapeutic applications would be closely linked. This continuum of research and treatment,

62 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

elaborated by Marie Curie and Claudius Regaud, remains, over a century later, the hallmark of the Institut Curie, which relies on this fundamental cornerstone to continue to innovate in the fight against cancer. The exhibition is organised by the Musée Curie and the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, which manages the Panthéon. From November 8th through to March 4th, 2018 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 www.paris-pantheon.fr

General view of the nave of the Panthéon © Didier Plowy - Centre des monuments nationaux; Panthéon as seen from the rue Soufflot © Benjamin Gavaudo - Centre des monuments nationaux

Day Trip

arts&attractions Monuments

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Although the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 64 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; OctMarch 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05 Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. From November 8 through to March 4 Marie Curie, une femme au Panthéon, an exhibition devoted to the illustrious scientist, Marie Curie. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking.

La Conciergerie iStockphoto 2017 © Leonid Andronov

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

arts&attractions

Monuments

La Conciergerie

Apocalypse tapestry © Didier Plowy – Centre des monuments nationaux - Photo de Presse

There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. JanMarch 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Château d’Angers This remarkable citadel punctuated by 17 shale and limestone towers is a massive medieval structure whose fortifications stretch out for nearly 500 meters. Construction began in the 13th century and the château is home to the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, a vast and major piece of medieval art. In the 14th and 15th centuries the Dukes of Anjou held court here. Today, it is managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. From November 15 through to February 11 Apocalypse : histoire intime d’un chef d’oeuvre, an exhibition exploring the Apocalypse tapestry, a unique ensemble in its genre, the civil and religious uses of wall hangings and their conservation. Daily 10am-5:30pm, closed Nov 11 & 23. 9€. www.chateau-angers.fr/en 2 Promenade du Bout du Monde, 49100 Angers, 02 41 86 48 77. SNCF train from Paris Gare Montparnasse.

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AreAs & MArkets Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

Art gAlleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

AttrActions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Flight Experience Paris

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Galerie Olwen Forest

Catacombes de Paris

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

Ballon de Paris | Attractions 66 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. M° Quai de la Gare

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Canal saint-Martin | Attractions

arts&attractions

Address Book

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Chartres The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Musée National du Château de Malmaison This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Jardin du Luxembourg

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

day trips Auvers sur Oise

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord

to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Château de Versailles

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Grande arche | Attractions

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours L’Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

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arts&attractions Address Book

Paris City Vision City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Retro Tour

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MuseuMs & fondAtions

Le Grand Musée du Parfum

Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Espace Dali

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

The world of perfume unfolds in this museum devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries. Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil

Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

Musée des Arts et Métiers

Fondation Louis Vuitton

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Jardin du luxeMBourG | Gardens 68 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance

Musée de l’arMée – hôtel des invalides | Museums & Fondations

arts&attractions

Address Book

at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with

mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of

Musée des Arts décorAtifs | Museums & Fondations

11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

Musée Rodin

thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

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The Guide

dining

Tapas-Style Dining | Fusion Fare | Bistros | French Cuisine | Italian Fare

Enjoy tapas-style dishes at Wim à Table (opposite page)

70 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

dining

Restaurants

Casual Chic Like all great cities, Paris is a mosaic of intriguingly different neighbourhoods, and even though it’s compact there are still parts of the town that remain little known to travellers. One of these is the delightful Batignolles district of the northern 17th arrondissement. It’s a dense, cosy, lively old quartier with several beautiful parks, many cafes and some very good restaurants. The latest is Wim à Table, with a small-plates format that Flemish chef Wim Van Gorp launched after working as chef at New York-based French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Paris restaurant Market for many years. This is casual dining at its best, and it’s as good an address to go to with a group of friends, as it is on your own. The standard menus include dishes like steak Americaine, the Belgian version of steak tartare, ham croquettes, and Bern sausage, while a chalkboard proposes a selection of seasonal small bites that change almost daily. These might include a roasted duck leg with herring eggs, a marinated courgette salad, cepe mushrooms in a light vinaigrette and a pleasantly pucker lemon cream for dessert. Service is young and charming, and the brief selection of wines by the glass is well-chosen. – Alexander Lobrano Wim à Table 45 rue des Moines (17th), 01 42 29 10 41

West Meets East Looking for a memorable place for a meal near the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est? Head to Yikou, a stylish restaurant for a feast of imaginative Franco-Asian dishes created by a Frenchman and a Chinese man who share a reciprocal love for the cooking of one another’s countries. This light, delicious food fascinates by using French ingredients in Chinese preparations like dim sum or bao (steamed rice buns), which are here used for sandwiches served with a garnish of delicious frites made from rice instead of potatoes. Among the stand-out dim sum are the Lao Breizh, a succulent ravioli stuffed with lobster, seitan (wheat protein) and seaweed, the Babao Truffes, which is filled with free-range chicken water chestnuts and black truffle oil from the Perigord, and the Chasu Forestier, an earthy bao filled with stewed wild boar garnished with rice wine and cranberries. For dessert try the Madame Sago, dim sum filled with coconut cream seasoned with crushed Speculoos (Belgian spice cookies). – A.L Yikou 49 rue de l’Aqueduc (10th), 09 83 76 44 64 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71

dining

Restaurants

Contemporary Bistro Fare Tucked away in one of the hippest streets in the trendy 10th arrondissement, one of the younger and livelier parts of Paris, Restaurant Eels, the new restaurant named for chef Adrien Ferrand’s signature dish of smoked eel with Granny Smith apple, is the hit table of the season in Paris. The reason you’ll have to book a few days in advance to land a table here, though, is chef Adrien Ferrand’s fresh and stunningly inventive contemporary French bistro cooking. Ferrand previously cooked at KGB, the annex table to chef William Ledeuil’s excellent Saint-Germain-des-Prés restaurant Ze Kitchen Galerie, and although some touches of Ledeuil’s love of Asian ingredients and techniques comes through, the young chef’s style is all his own. The brief menu changes regularly, but runs to dishes like a luscious tuna carpaccio with tomato marmalade and ponzu sauce, succulent red Sicilian shrimp in a light saffron bisque with lightly steamed vegetables, and a vanilla millefeuille with homemade apricot jam. – A.L. Restaurant Eels 27 rue d’Hauteville (10th), 01 42 28 80 20

For anyone who’s craving an exciting experience of outstanding contemporary French cooking without a major wound to the wallet, L’Oiseau Rive Gauche is an excellent choice. Young chef Maxime Laurenson’s cooking dazzles with its subtle originality and technical precision, and service is absolutely charming, too. Located steps from the French National Assemblée in one of the chicest neighbourhoods in Paris, this calm dining room has a pleasantly clubby atmosphere at noon when many politicians dine here, and a more intimate ambiance in the evening, when it is popular with welldressed local couples. The short menu changes regularly to feature seasonal produce and the talented young chef’s latest creations, but a vegetarian tasting menu, are always offered alongside the regular prix-fixe menus and à la carte choices. Stopping by recently for dinner, we were delighted by an amuse bouche of roasted ear of baby corn, a succulent wink at autumn, and this theme continued with starters of cepe mushrooms with liquorice and hazelnuts and a plump oyster intriguingly brightened with quince extract. Main courses were outstanding, too, including cod with pistachios and verbena and roasted pigeon garnished with beets, black currants and geranium. Since the cheese tray here comes from Bernard Anthony in Alsace, one of the greatest cheese mongers in France, we tucked into a fine selection before desserts of jasmine cream with blackberries and hazelnuts and a superb composition of smoked chocolate flavoured with hay. – A.L. L’Oiseau Rive Gauche 5 rue de Bourgogne (7th), 01 45 51 79 42 72 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Wallet-Friendly French Fare

dining

Restaurant Advertorial

SantOOR Indian Cuisine / Paris 8th This charming restaurant offers fine halal gourmet Indian cuisine. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts. Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Open every day, Mondays-Saturdays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for dinner. 30 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: +33 (0)1 42 56 33 18 www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr

haRD ROCK CafÉ American, 9th The Hard Rock Café Paris offers more than just great food and service. Discover authentic memorabilia from rock ‘n’ roll legends covering the walls, 21 screens showing videos, and an unbelievable sound system. In this restaurant and famous cocktail bar all is done to give the international clientele an American experience. Mon-Sun L&D. 14 blvd Montmartre, Paris 9th Metro: Richelieu-Drouot Tel: +33 (0)1 53 24 60 00 www.hardrock.com

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dining

Restaurants

A New Take on French Cuisine Sophisticated service, contemporary design and a talented young chef set the tone for a fine dining experience at Le Baudelaire. Overlooking the courtyard of Le Burgundy Hotel in the chic first arrondissement, just off Rue Saint-HonorĂŠ, Le Baudelaire brings a new take on contemporary French cuisine thanks to chef Guillaume Goupil. Using seasonal produce, Goupil has taken traditional dishes and transformed them into beautifully presented dishes that are both appealing to the eyes and of course to the taste. The menu includes a refreshing starter with lightly grilled watermelon served with a feta cheese gazpacho and a zesty lime granita in a shot glass, while mains include a roasted duck breast served with corn and buckwheat spaghetti drizzled with a paprika sauce. The service here is attentive and the chef welcomingly caters to any dietary restrictions. S.I. Le Baudelaire 8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12

Fancy Bistro Dining Foodies visiting the City of Light will be happy to discover Les Fauves. Winning the Food Lovers Welcome Awards by CIWY award, this neo bistro serves high quality cuisine at attractive bistro prices. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and brunch on Sundays and public holidays, this restaurant focuses on serving fresh food using local and organic produce. In a relaxed space peppered with green plants, enjoy organic salmon marinated in wasabi, served with pickles and cucumber, and beef tartare served with hand-cut fries and vegetable chips. Vegetarians arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t left out in the cold either with dishes created with veggies in mind including a hearty organic quinoa dish tossed with a medley of vegetables and seasoned with Ras el hanout, a North African spice mix. - S.I. Les Fauves 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01 72 38 58 92 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 75

dining

Restaurant Advertorial

LE bistROt DU LOUcHÉbEm

LE LOUcHÉbEm

Traditional French cuisine

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

bREakfast in amERica

WEPLER Traditional French cuisine 414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30e 4Set-menu 24.50e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com th

A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: one of the finest French Onion soups in the capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone .

76 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes.

The "Original" American Diner in Paris! 4BIA 1: 17 rue des Ecoles, Paris 5th 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th 4Open 7 days a week - 8:30am - 11pm 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri, 10.95€ & 8.95€ (students) 4Sunday Brunch served all day 4www.breakfast-in-america.com

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes... and much more! Hand in this ad to receive 10% off when you order Breakfast Anytime off our menu!

dining

Restaurants

If you really want to know where the wild things are, go to dinner at Pink Mamma, the hugely popular new Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated former hospital in the frisky Pigalle neighbourhood. Spread across four floors, this lively but romantic restaurant also includes a speakeasy-style bar named No Entry in its basement and a gorgeous glassed walled dining room on the top floor with great views over the neighbourhood. If a variety of pastas and pizzas are both on the menu here, the specialty is charcoal-grilled beef, which comes with sides like cheese polenta, sautéed baby spinach, corn or green salad. Those who prefer seafood will also find grilled octopus on the menu, and the best way to begin here is with a couple of the sharing plates, maybe arancini (breaded deep-fried rice balls), some stracciatella (the creamy middle of burrata cheese smoked) and some Parma ham that’s aged for two years. Next, the Sardinian fregola pasta with baby squid is delicious, or share a pizza, the puckish named Regina (Queen) de la Night is topped with mozzarella, Tuscan ham, Portobello mushrooms and olives. Portions are generous here, but if you still want dessert, the panna cotta with peach compote with lavender is original and refreshing. Pink Mamma is open daily, though note that it has a no reservations policy, so go early to avoid a wait. – A.L. Pink Mamma 20bis rue de Douai (9th)

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Italians Do It Better

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dining on the seine Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of

France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€) Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the house-

made foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition

Canard & Champagne | Classic French (2nd) 78 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Bateaux parisiens | Classic French (7th)

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & d: Breakfast, Lunch & dinner.

dining

Address Book

to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-gerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet

(€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 01.45.55.20.04. Mº Ecole Militaire

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Le restaurant du paLais royaL | Contemporary (1st)

L’amBroisie | Haute Cuisine (4th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 79

dining

Address Book L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French (€€) Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The menu revolves around the seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack menu is served everyday throughout the day. MonSat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening. 5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine

choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

Around oPérA gArnier & PigALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & d: Breakfast, Lunch & dinner.

Lasserre | Classic French (8th) 80 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Le safran | Gourmet (8th)

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

dining

Address Book traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with

creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood

(€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

septime | Classic French (11th)

maKassar | Contemporary (17th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 81

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Catch Yazz Ahmed in concert at the Blue Note Festival (opposite page)

82 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Yazz Ahmed Credit Giulietta Verdon-Roe

entertainment

Shows

Singin’ in the Rain While the Théâtre du Châtelet is closed for renovations, the famous theatre is taking its productions to the Grand Palais, one of the city’s most iconic exhibition halls, which is known for welcoming French fashion house Chanel for their seasonal fashion shows. From the 28th of this month through to the 11th of January, the Grand Palais will be transformed into an extraordinary stage, welcoming the cast of Singin’ in the Rain, the musical based on the cult movie of the same name. Directed by Robert Carsen, the production is performed in English with French surtitles, and brilliantly brings the well-known story of movie-making in the 20s to the glass monument.

Grand Palais 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

Jazz Nights The Blue Note Festival is back for a new edition, celebrating jazz with concerts taking place between the 14th and the 19th of the month at three of the city’s favourite concert halls. Van Morrison (pictured above), Miles Mosey and Yazz Ahmed are only some of the artists performing, bringing old school jazz and the new sounds of underground jazz to the French capital. Visit www.bluenotefestival.fr for the full programme. Tickets at Fnac. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 83

entertainment Shows

A Night at the Opera Giuseppe Verdi’s last opera comes alive on the stage of the Opéra Bastille. Directed by Dominique Pitsoiset, Falstaff, the three act opera tells the story of Falstaff and his ploy to get access to the money of two wealthy married women, and what ensues is a comical tale of revenge and love. The opera is performed in Italian with French and English surtitles, and is playing out through to the 16th of November. Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90

Christmas has come early with Showtime in Paris’s buy one get one free deal. Through to the 12th of the month, over 20 venues around the French capital are offering visitors the opportunity to take in the best shows for next to nothing. From sexy cabarets to stand-up comedy shows, you can go and take in the latest show with your chéri or best friend for the price of one. On the agenda is the Totally Crazy cabaret at Crazy Horse, the worldfamous Moulin Rouge show and the talented comic Olivier Giraud performing his one-man show, How to Become Parisian in One Hour, at the Théâtre des Nouveautés. Head to www.showtimeinparis.com for the full list of venues and shows that are taking part in this generous offer. 84 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Free Entertainment

iin n Musical director

Gareth Valentine Director

Robert Carsen

NOVEMBER 28 2017 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; JANUARY 11 2018

the he Rain R ain

CHATELET-THEATRE.COM 01 40 28 28 40

AT THE GRAND PALAIS

Choreographer

Stephen Mear Costume Designer

Anthony Powell Set Designer

Tim Hatley Dramaturge

Ian Burton Lighting Designers

Robert Carsen Giuseppe Di Iorio

Screenplay

BETTY COMDEN and ADOLPH GREEN

Songs

NACIO HERB BROWN and ARTHUR FREED

Based on the classic Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer film, by special arrangement with Warner Bros. Theatre Ventures, Inc. Music published by EMI (Original Movie Choreography by Gene Kelly and Stanley Donen) Produced by Arrangement with Maurice Rosenfield, Lois F. Rosenfield and Cindy Pritzker, Inc. In agreement with Drama - Paris (www.dramaparis.com) on behalf of Music Theatre International(MTI) - New York (www.mtishows.com)

# singin

Design: Studio Philippe Apeloig 2017

Orchestre Pasdeloup

entertainment Concerts

Wicked Game singer Chris Isaak is bringing his sultry voice to the French capital. Performing at the legendary Olympia, the singer-songwriter will be performing a one-night only show on the 2nd of November. L’Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08 92 68 33 68

American jazz singer Dee Dee Bridgewater is filling Paris with her soulful tunes. Performing on the 7th and 8th of November, the Grammy Award-winning singersongwriter will be joined by Memphis Soulphony. La Cigale 120 blvd de Rochechouart (18th), 01 49 25 89 99

English singer-songwriter James Blunt’s The Afterlove Tour is coming to the City of Love. Performing on the 7th of the month, Blunt will be performing songs from his latest studio album, The Afterlove. Zénith Paris – La Villette 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01 44 52 54 56

All tickets at Fnac 86 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

American rocker Marilyn Manson is also bringing his The Heaven Upside Down Tour to Paris on the 27th of November. The singer-songwriter will be performing songs from his latest album and of course rocking his signature glam rock look. AccorHotels Arena 8 blvd de Bercy (12th), 01 75 44 04 00

Chris Isaak DR; Dee Bridgewater DR; james Blunt DR

Live in Concert

ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a

comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any

situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

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Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

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entertainment Bars

Charity in a Cocktail Bar 228, the cosy lounge at Le Meurice hotel is helping fight children malnutrition in Africa and Asia one cocktail at a time. Head barman William Oliveri has created three different cocktails, one alcoholic and two mocktails, using spirulina, the superfood that is high in protein. For every cocktail sold a part of the profits will go to supporting Antenna France, an association helping children suffering from malnutrition, with the proceeds of one cocktail gifting two children a spirulina cure for six weeks. The drinks are available until the 31st of December, and with the tequilabased El Sombrero with a dash of spirulina, you can get your shot of superfood at cocktail hour as well as help children in need.

Cocktails and Cabarets Fall into Nolinski Hotel’s cabaret dream when the Grand Salon welcomes a line-up of extraordinary performers. One night per month the intimate space welcomes sexy burlesque dancers, singers and even a fire eater to intoxicate guests with their talents, and this month the 10th of November marks the date for the L’Esprit Cabaret au Grand Salon. Burlesque dancers Scarlett Diamond and Froufrou d’Absinthe, and singer Brian Scott Bagley are only some of the names promising you a great performance as you sip on one of the bar’s signature cocktails including the Old Fizz made with rhubarb-infused gin and white wine syrup. Nolinski Hotel 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10 88 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Bar 228 Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 53 10 66

entertainment Bars

A New Old Favourite It has always been a mythical address of the French capital and now after its recent reopening the Hôtel de Crillon is claiming back its spot as one of Paris’s most loved hotels. With a complete renovation, which lasted over 3 years and saw Parisians wait for its doors to reopen with bated breath, guests can now enter the majestic address. Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant is the hotel’s new bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. The menu here boasts over 100 champagne references and signature cocktails include the orange vodka-based Parisian Mule. Les Ambassadeurs 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 80

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Cabarets

Crazy Horse

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

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MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

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Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Le Bar

Le Bristol Bar

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Le Bar Long

casino

The Ballroom

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

experimentaL CoCktaiL Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (2nd) 92 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2017

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (16th)

entertainment

Address Book

known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

Gentlemen’s clubs

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Pink Paradise

Le Social Club

authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

Secret Square

Les Bains

VIP Room

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

niGht clubs

Palais Maillot

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Le Duplex

Raspoutine

Le Baron

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly

seCret square

This mythical Parisian venue remains an

| Gentlemen’s Clubs (17th)

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Le mona Lisa

| Night Clubs (1st)

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The Guide

services

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains

medical services

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

Paris districts

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

rental cars & scooters

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62,

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops. 9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

First GT Location provides prestige car hire

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas

hair salons

real estate agencies

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8 ),

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

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01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule DS Real Estate Paris - 78 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01.83.62.90.14. M° Victor Hugo Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de MarsTour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

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Services

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

96 W HE RE Pa r i s I N O V E M b e r 2017

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

DIMITRI RUIZ

HEAD Concierge AT Auberge du Jeu de Paume, Chantilly Musée d’Orsay

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Begin with breakfast at Claus Paris or at Angelina’s. Visit the Louvre museum preferably with a private guide before enjoying lunch at Les Jalles or at the Bistrot de Paris located near the Orsay museum and then take in the Impressionist paintings of the Orsay museum. Have a cocktail at La Prescription bar before having dinner at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain, or have a drink at the bar of the Plaza Athénée before enjoying an exceptional meal at chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant at the hotel. For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Coq Rico, for its Bresse poultry or its magrets, Train Bleu, Neva or Jules Verne for its view. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you 98 W HE RE Paris I N O V E M B E R 2017

VIP Room

suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The top of the butte Montmartre is the place to be for a breath-taking view of Paris and this area is so quintessentially Paris and charming. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? The City of Light and the night world join together at L’Arc, the Baron, VIP Room, Silencio, and Raspoutine. As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Paris is the capital of fashion and the areas of Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Rue SaintHonoré and Avenue Montaigne are its main symbols, but you should not forget to stroll towards the department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann, close to the Opera. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

For a romantic location, I suggest the Maison Blanche on the rooftop of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées or a dinner cruise on the River Seine with the Yachts de Paris. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? There is a promenade located between the Bastille and the Bois de Vincennes called la Coulée Verte and the artisans and creators located at the bottom of it will help you to discover lesser-known crafts.

My perfect day 9am: Visit Musée d’Orsay 12pm: Lunch at Franck at the Fondation Louis Vuitton 3pm: Visit the MoMa in Paris exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton 9pm: Dinner at Le Pré Catelan, a 3-star Michelin restaurant 10:45pm: Crazy Horse show

where

Your Guide to the World

Musée d’Orsay, iStock 2017 © Andrey Krav ; Restaurant Jules Verne © Pierre Monetta; Angelina DR; VIP Room © www.audransarzier.com

Angelina

Jules Verne

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