Where Paris magazine, November 2018 by Where Paris

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PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

22 SHOPPING

A New Step for Olivier Saillard

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

Meet the new artistic director behind J.M. Weston’s new line of footwear

Excellence in Exhibitions

Voyage through the city’s new must-see art shows

48 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 62 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 74 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 86 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 18 Issue N o 298

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

While fashion is a major draw for the French capital, Paris also boasts an

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

extraordinary number of museums, making it one of the top cultural

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février*

destinations in the world for art lovers. This month we bring you the

GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*

must-see shows taking place at the Grand Palais, Centre Pompidou and Musée d’Orsay.

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In this issue we also bring you our A Rockin’ Wedding Date photo shoot featuring wedding looks with an edge and dripped in haute jewellery. And of course we bring you all the latest trends from some of our favourite fashion brands for both ladies and gentlemen, which you will discover in our Shopping pages.

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to eat their way through it. A new take on a food market, crêpes and

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a restaurant on wheels with beautiful landmarks punctuating your

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dinner are all on the menu this month.

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We also bring you the month’s not-to-be-missed shows in our Entertainment section as well as the new bars to discover for cocktail hour, including a well-hidden speakeasy.

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Novembre 2018. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito

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8 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

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November

HOT DATES Discover the best of November in Paris

Art Exhibition THROUGH TO NOVEMBER 3 The Galerie Barbier & Mathon is hosting Enki Bilal’s Graphite in Progress (2) exhibition where the artist’s sketches are taking centre stage in the gallery’s two exhibition spaces. And for the very first time, Bilal’s first bronze sculpture, the URS bear, is being shown. 10 rue Choron (9th), 06 80 06 29 95 10 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V EEM MBBEERR 2018 2018

PARIS THIS MONTH

A Sense for Luxury

Sunday Brunch

NOVEMBER 11 TO 15 If you have ever wondered what it would be like to get around a hotel room if you were blind, deaf or in a wheelchair then a visit to the Senses Room booth at the Equip’Hotel trade show will be quite the interesting stop for you. Showcasing their design concept for hotel rooms to accommodate clients with all different needs, Senses Room designed by Francis van de Walle demonstrates that luxury knows no limits. www.equiphotel.com Paris Expo, Hall 3, Porte de Versailles

In Concert NOVEMBER 18 He is most famous for starring in Jurassic Park but Jeff Goldblum is also a talented pianist. Performing with The Mildred Snitzer Orchestra tonight only, you can listen to and discover Goldblum’s hidden jazz talents at Le Trianon. 80 blvd de Rochechouart (18th), 01 44 92 78 00

NOVEMBER 25 The Hôtel de Crillon is hosting a special Sunday brunch today in celebration of Thanksgiving. The all-you-can-eat buffet is a wonderful way to celebrate the holiday, complete with French champagne. Today, also marks the last day the hotel will be exhibiting a series of photographs taken in collaboration with Polka gallery by photographer Emanuele Scorcelletti, showcasing wax figures from the city’s Musée Grévin in all sorts of poses around the luxurious hotel. Call 01 44 71 15 17 to reserve your brunch. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th)

An Evening at the Ballet THROUGH TO NOVEMBER 4 La Seine Musicale invites you to watch the National Ballet of China perform The Nutcracker. See the 70 dancers and 60 musicians bring the famous ballet to its stage for an enchanting evening with the music of Tchaikovsky bringing to life the heartwarming story of The Nutcracker and Clara. Performed for the first time in Paris, The Nutcracker with Chinese influences is a treat for the cultured eye with breathtaking performances and gorgeous costumes. Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 11

PARIS THIS MONTH

Namaste

Almost Christmas

NOVEMBER 23

ALL MONTH

Start your day on a Zen note with Eléphant Paname’s Holi Yoga x Aveda yoga class at 8am this morning. Conducted by Caroline, The Yoginist, the class is the perfect way to start your day in Paris. Reservations are advised.

With Christmas slowly making its way around next month, La Fabrique du Père Noël pop-up store is making life a little bit easier by offering some wonderful gift ideas for the holiday. Under one festive roof you will find 150 different brands from novelty products to some very fashionable finds.

10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 49 27 83 33

6 rue des Archives (4th)

Trades Shows & Arts Fair NOVEMBER 1-4 HORS-SERIE MAISON BY FOIRE DE PARIS This show devoted to everything for the home brings together some 350 exhibitors. Decorative objects, design, kitchens, verandas, fireplaces and more are all waiting to be discovered. Innovations, inventions, gastronomy and workshops for adults and children are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredeparis.fr Paris Expo Blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 1-4 SALON DU CHOCOLAT A heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate are all on the agenda. This year’s focus is on cocoa, its origins, its growing regions and its virtues and the show welcomes cocoa producers from around the world. There is a section of the show, Chocolat Junior, devoted to children with workshops and adventure-filled games. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo Blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 7-11 FINE ARTS PARIS This show brings together exceptional works of drawings, paintings and sculpture from the 16th century to today, presented by leading galleries from France and abroad. The fair is also launching a rich cultural programme devoted to sculpture in partnership with and in various museums and institutions in Paris. The show is open from 12 to 8pm, from 2pm to 8pm on the 7th, until 10pm on the 8th and until 7pm on the 11th. www.finearts-paris.com Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

NOVEMBER 8-12 PARIS PHOTO This prestigious photography show brings together 166 galleries and 31 publishers from France and abroad beneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais, exhibiting photographs, films and installation works. The show is open from 12pm until 8pm and until 7pm on the 11th. www.parisphoto.com Grand Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th) 12 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

NOVEMBER 8-12 SALON DE LA PHOTO This show is devoted to the latest evolutions in photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals and offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. Exhibitions, conferences and the awarding of prizes are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and closes at 6pm on the 12th. www.lesalondelaphoto.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

NOVEMBER 9-11 FOTOFEVER This art fair devoted to contemporary photography and the visual image brings together some 250 photographers and 100 French and international galleries and publishers showcasing photography, digital art and video. The show is geared towards collectors and is open from 11am to 8pm and closes at 6pm on the 11th. www.fotofeverartfair.com Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

NOVEMBER 16-18 PORTES OUVERTES Some 83 artists in and around the neighbourhoods of Notre-Dame de Lorette, Montmartre and Barbès are opening up their studios to the public offering a visit into the creative world of artists, their techniques and works in progress. These neighbourhoods in the 18th and 9th arrondissements of Paris have traditionally been frequented by artists and are rich in studios, gallery-boutiques and venues. The studios are open from 11am to 8pm and from 6pm to 9pm on the 16th. www.anversauxabbesses.fr Welcome point at Atelier du Delta, 26 rue du Delta (9th)

NOVEMBER 23-24 PAGES This show brings together beautiful books destined for the contemporary bibliophile with some 100 exhibitors including editors, engravers, calligraphers, artists and poets from France and abroad presenting their books and objects. The show is open from 2pm to 9pm on the 23rd, from 11am to 8pm on the 24th and from 11am to 7pm on the 25th. www.pages-paris.com Palais de la Femme 94 rue de Charonne (11th)

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Interview

A New Step for Olivier Saillard By Sandra Iskander

Stepping down from his role as the director of Palais Galliera after a quarter of a century, Saillard admits, “It was a complex decision to quit my work as a museum director after twenty-five years. But after 140 exhibitions, including numerous ones dedicated to designers I deeply admire (Madame Grès, Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, Jeanne Lanvin, and Cristobal Balenciaga), I had the feeling of a complete work. I started at Palais Galliera with an exhibition of Azzedine Alaïa and ended with a retrospective on Martin Margiela, I was very lucky. The proposition of J.M. Weston came at a turning point in my life. I was 50 years old and felt like new perspectives. I like the fact that there was a factory, that it was a French house with a human heritage and its own know-how. I remember I immediately thought of Rimbaud, that Verlaine would call ‘l’homme aux semelles de vent.’ After all this is what convinced me. I saw all the poetry [surrounding] this brand founded in 1981 in Limoges.”

director dipping into the archives to give the house’s iconic designs a breath of fresh air and bringing them to the house’s new flagship boutique. “In the atelier here, I have a range of shoes I stored, the Hunt derby, the Half-Hunt derby, the Republican Guard boot, the Moccasin, eleven of the iconic styles of the brand that I observe carefully so as to better immerse myself. There is a mood board on the wall where I pinned the faces of Carl André and writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, some paintings of Soulages. The Papers collection is inspired by the 40s. Shoes are bolder, with square toes, leather wallpaper motifs in the inner side of the shoe. I don’t like neglected interiors and I like the idea of bringing paper to the feet in order to feel lighter. Again, the Weston shoe is made to last. Fashion always focuses on the new seasons and the collections to come. This absolute duty of novelty is absurd. I wish to set some [new] dressing habits,” he explains.

Taking on the new role at J.M. Weston seemingly became an extension of Saillard’s work experience, explaining that, “I am a historian, so I first immersed myself into the history of the brand. I visited the factory in Limoges and went into the archives. The history is very interesting. J.M. Weston is a fictitious name. The founder was called Edouard Blanchard. At the beginning of the 20th century he sent his son to the United States, to a town called Weston, near Boston, so he could train in the traditional Norwegian welt technique and the Goodyear stitching. As for the initials J.M., we don’t know their signification. Then I also went into some research and found traces of the first Hunt shoes dating back to 1937. I like the idea that J.M. Weston is inline with durability. These are shoes of great quality that one keeps for a long time. I like this aspect, quite eco-friendly and thus modern.”

Accustomed to putting on exhibitions at Palais Galliera for twenty-five years, Saillard is also bringing his know-how in attracting an audience to good use at J.M. Weston by hoping to renew how we discover new collections. “I suggested we hold performances rather than shows, not necessarily to show new collections but to show the spirit of these timeless shoes, for the day, for the evening, for yesterday, for tomorrow, for ever. When a Weston is used, we send them to the factory. These shoes are passed on from generation to generation. Last June we presented a performance called Défilé pour 27 chaussures at the Grand Palais in which dancer and choreographer Mathilde Monnier, who directs the Centre National de la Danse in Pantin, showed eleven iconic shoes of J.M. Weston. It’s a different way of telling the story of the house, to breathe some mythology and poetry back around the name of J.M. Weston. Then, we worked with Laetita Casta, and photographer Katerina Jebb, to embody the new aesthetic of the Weston shoes that can be worn just as well by a man or a woman. For this campaign, I thought of androgynous women of Berlin in the 40s,” the designer says.

And it appears bringing back the old is Saillard’s forte with the now artistic

Saillard doesn’t stop his “performances” at how the new collections are

14 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Olivier Saillard © Gregoire Alexandre

t is a new era for J.M. Weston with the opening of a new boutique on the world-famous Avenue des Champs-Elysées and the arrival of a new artistic director, Olivier Saillard.

Boutique J.M.Weston Espace Femme and Accueil; J.M.Weston ErwanFichou

Olivier Saillard (opposite page), the new J.M. Weston boutique (top and right), and Mathilde Monnier’s performance showcasing J.M. Weston’s 11 iconic shoes (top left)

presented either, extending his ideas to how the house’s boutiques are designed with the designer explaining, “We opened the Champs-Elysées boutique last July. The one who enters the store should be considered as a visitor before he becomes a client. I remember visiting the Comme des Garçons store as a student just to be able to see the pieces, without buying. I like the idea that one gets into the history of the brand in this way. Fashion is not only about buying. True luxury today is time. Because taking time is to give oneself the one for thinking and studying. Joseph Dirand designed the new store on the Champs-Elysées where the house settled back in 1932. In this space inspired by Art Déco, we will open the chapters, as the ones of a book, to explain the brand. Shoeboxes are blue, as the main colour of the earthenware of Limoges, boxes we conceived so they can fold to take less space in the wardrobes and can fit in a suitcase. A space is dedicated to the description of the making of the shoes and, for example, how the 180 Moccasin needs 180 gestures made by different craftsmen. Another one is dedicated to shoe care and a third one to the knowledge of various leathers.”

When he isn’t immersing himself in the history of shoemaking at J.M. Weston, Olivier Saillard reads. “I read a great number of books. For a while, I used to read three books a week. I’ve had a habit for the past thirty years, to turn down the pages where there is an excerpt that evokes clothing. I now post them on Instagram. I find this app is a very nice tool for sharing.” And of course his love for putting on exhibitions is very much alive with Saillard sharing that he is “working on an exhibition about menswear fashion with the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery. It will be shown from June to October 2019 at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, in collaboration with Museo della Moda e del Costume. Also, I’ll be showing at the Centre National de la Danse in Pantin on November 10th and 11th the Ephemeral Museum of Fashion that was first staged at Palazzo Pitti and based on collections from the Galleria del Costume e della Moda. On the same occasion, we’ll be showing the performance with Mathilde Monnier and J.M. Weston, Défilé pour 27 chaussures.”

“The shoe means walking, travelling, it means somewhere else…” - Olivier Saillard

J.M. WESTON BOUTIQUE 55 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 26 47

w w w. p a r i s m a p. com 15

Alphonse Mucha, Rêverie, 1897, Lithographie en couleur, 72.7 x 55.2 cm Fondation Mucha, Prague © Mucha Trust 2018

Art Exhibitions

Excellence in Exhibitions By Patricia Valicenti

16 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Jean-Michel Basquiat. Untitled, 1982. Acrylique et crayon gras sur bois. Collection particulière. © Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Licensed by Artestar, New York; Giovanni Baglione, Amour sacré et Amour profane, vers 1602, huile sur toile. Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica di Roma. Palazzo Barberini, Rome © Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica di Roma. Palazzo Barberini

Dreams by Mucha at the retrospective devoted to the artist at the Musée de Luxembourg (opposite page), Untitled by Jean-Michel Basquiat at the Fondation Louis Vuitton (above left), and the painting Sacred and Profane Love by Giovanni Baglione at the Caravaggio exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André (above right)

host of exhilarating and eclectic exhibitions are currently on in Paris ranging from the dreamy and realistic worlds of Mucha to the magical one of unicorns, while the diversity of the Cubists as well Picasso’s pivotal Blue and Pink periods are being revealed. There is a dazzling depiction of Venice, its way of life and its rich artistic scene in the 18th century and a walk through the light and shadows of Caravaggio whose life was as dramatic and enlightening as his paintings. There is also an intriguing juxtaposition of two shows by two artists, Egon Schiele who painted in Vienna in the early 20th century and Jean-Michel Basquiat, who would become famous at the other end of the century in New York in the 1980s. Realism, Naturalism and the chiaroscuro, Michelangelo Merisi, who went by the name of Caravaggio, mastered all of them and his works would become a major influence on Baroque painting. The Musée Jacquemart-André is hosting an exceptional exhibition entitled Caravaggio, the Roman Period, Friends and Enemies, bringing together 10 masterpieces by this major 17th century Italian artist shown alongside works by his contemporaries including Orazio Gentileschi and Giovanni Baglione. The show, running through to January 28th, features the artist’s two Magdalene masterpieces both emanating from private collections and which have never been represented together before. The 10 paintings by the master reveal his original form of chiaroscuro, in which he used extreme contrasts of dark and light to bring out details. The juxtaposition of Caravaggio’s work with those of

the other artists underscore not only his creative genius but also the artistic effervescence that reigned in Rome at the time. More genius is on display at the Musée d’Orsay, which is welcoming the astounding blue and pink periods of Pablo Picasso through to January 6th. In a show fittingly entitled Picasso. Blue and Rose, the show aims to offer a new interpretation of his Blue and Rose periods, a critical and early period of his career. Some of the artist’s most iconic works are being shown in France for the first time and the works are being presented chronologically in two sections, the first from 1901 to 1904 and the second from 1905 to 1906. Some 300 works in diverse mediums and including 80 paintings and some 150 drawings have been brought together for the show. Meanwhile, the Centre Pompidou is devoting a major exhibition to Cubism, one of modern art history’s founding movements and whose inventors are regarded to be Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. The exhibition, entitled Cubism, takes a look at the inventiveness and the diversity of the movement, and features a host of artists including Marc Chagall, Jacques Villon, Francis Picabia and Fernand Léger. The show brings together some 300 works and documents presented chronologically over 14 sections. Masterpieces include Picasso’s Portrait of Gertrude Stein and his Guitar while the show also highlights the Cubists’s fascination with Gauguin and Cézanne and presents works by both of these artists. The exhibition is showing through to February 25th. w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 17

Picasso’s The Blue Room at the Picasso. Blue and Rose show at the Musée d’Orsay (top) and a tapestry depicting wild animals, including a unicorn, paying their respects to Saint Stephen at the Magical Unicorns exhibition at the Musée de Cluny (below)

demonstrating its influence on the late 19th century Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau along with a host of contemporary creations as well. A game booklet for children, family tours, storytelling visits and workshops are all on the agenda. The Musée de Luxembourg is hosting a retrospective of the works of Alphonse Mucha who is best known for his contribution to Art Nouveau but also documented in his art the life and times of the Slavic peoples. The show brings together his posters, notably those depicting the actress Sarah Bernhardt that launched his career. It would be his long series of advertising and decorative posters with variations of female figures interlaced with flowers and graphic scrolls that would bring him fame. The last 30 years of his career, which spanned the 19th and 20th centuries would be devoted to his project to depict the history of the Czech and all Slavic peoples. Mucha, who was born in Moravia, today a part of the Czech Republic, imbued these works with humanist and masonic philosophies. The show, running through to January 27th, brings together his posters, which made him a star, his illustrations, paintings, photographs, jewellery, sculptures and pastels revealing the diversity of his art. In the 18th century Venice fascinated Europe and it remained a key destination on the Grand Tour. A monumental city constructed on floating islands, with its rich traditions in art and music, the Republic of Venice, La Serenissima dazzled, dazzled until its defeat by the army of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1797. But prior to that and throughout the 18th century its unique history, architecture and way of life would flourish little by little. The Grand Palais is hosting a show entitled Magnificent Venice, Venice: Europe and the Arts in the 18th century, showing through to January 21st. The exhibition reflects the wealth of creativity in Venice where major talents in the arts converged with as a backdrop an increasingly fragile political and economic situation. The painters Piazzetta and Tiepolo, the urban landscape artist Canaletto along with composers like Porpora, Hasse and Vivaldi all contributed to the vibrancy of Venice, a Venice where puppet theatres charmed in outdoor squares and inside palazzos and where

18 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

La Chambre bleue, 1901 Huile sur toile, Washington, Phillips collection © Photo The Phillips Collection, Washington, D.C. © Succession Picasso 2018;

In a plunge from the modern into the medieval, the unicorn, the mythical beast of legend and lore, is being honoured with an exhibition, showing through to February 25th, at the Musée de Cluny, the national museum devoted to the Middle Ages. The departure point of the show, entitled Magical Unicorns, is the museum’s most famous masterpiece, the set of six tapestries known as The Lady and the Unicorn and which were woven around 1500, a transitional period between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance attesting to the importance of the unicorn in the medieval period. In the late Middle Ages towns, powerful lords and printers placed the unicorn in their coats of arms and the mysterious, somewhat ambivalent unicorn has throughout history fascinated. The show presents other works from the Middle Ages, notably illuminated manuscripts depicting the unicorn as well as for example

Tenture de saint Etienne Scène 8 : « le corps de saint Etienne respecté par les animaux sauvages » Tapisserie à fils de laine et de soie, vers 1500 Cl 23796 © RMN-Grand Palais (musée de Cluny - musée national du Moyen-Âge) / J-G. Berizzi

Art Exhibitions

during the Carnival drama and farce abounded and gambling was given free reign. The show offers up some 200 works offering a glimpse into a unique way of life and a special state of mind. Meanwhile, the Fondation Louis Vuitton is presenting the works of two major artists of the 20th century, Egon Schiele who worked at the beginning of that century in Vienna and Jean-Michel Basquiat who worked in the 1980s in New York. The duo of exhibitions underscores the intensity of their careers for in less than a decade they became major figures in the art of their century. Presented separately in two different sequences, these exhibitions, showing through to January 14th, reflect the context of each body of work.

Both artists died in their twenties and consequently had short yet dazzling careers and both would produce works that have left a lasting impact and both would become icons. Yet, they lived in different moments in time. For Schiele it would be Vienna of 1900, the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and a leading centre of intellectual and artistic life. For Basquiat it would be New York City of the early 1980s with the vitality of its underground scene, downtown urban culture and wildly creative art in all domains. The show devoted to Basquiat brings together 120 works and covers the ensemble of his career while the show devoted to Schiele also brings together some 120 works and follows the concept of the line and its development in the artist’s work. ADDRESS BOOK CENTRE POMPIDOU Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33 FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01 40 69 96 00 GRAND PALAIS 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 MUSÉE DE CLUNY 26-28 rue du Sommerard (5th), 01 53 73 78 00 MUSÉE D’ORSAY 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14 MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG 19 rue Vaugirard (6th), 01 40 13 62 00 MUSÉE JACQUEMART ANDRÉ 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59

20 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Giambattista TIEPOLO, Neptune offre l’abondance à Venise, 1756 – 1758. Huile sur toile. Venise, Palazzo Ducale © Cameraphoto/Scala, Firenze; Marc Chagall, Les Portes du cimetière, 1917. Huile sur toile. Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne, Paris © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI / Dist. RMN-GP. Service Presse Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne, Paris. © ADAGP, Paris 2018

Neptune Offering Gifts to Venice by Tiepolo at the Venice show at the Grand Palais (above) and The Cemetary Gates by Marc Chagall at the Cubism show at the Centre Pompidou (below)

www.redline-boutique.com

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Check out Filaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new nostalgic collection on page 26 22 WH ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

SHOPPING

For Her

Mixing with Marni Sophisticated, classy and reminiscent of old-world glamour, Marniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pre-Fall 2018 pleated dresses, empire cuts and oversized silhouettes bring a playful chicness to the rather dreary weather that is ahead. Unfinished stitching and misplaced buttons add to the playfulness of the collection that also features more daring pieces including patchwork detailing on fur coats and tie dye skirts and coats. Mixing and matching from this collection will be every fashionistaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designer wardrobe dream for making quite the impact on the autumnal season. - S.I. Marni Boutique 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 56 88 08 08

Bonpoint Grows Up Bonpoint has always been one of our favourite fashion houses for children, and now the chic ready-to-wear brand is bringing its quintessentially Parisian style to the sophisticated wardrobes of women. Borrowing from what has made the brand so popular, the new collection for ladies stays true to simple chic pieces that can effortlessly create a complete wardrobe and which can be easily mixed and matched. Lace collars and tulle skirts bring a romantic touch, while tartan wool and jacquard bring an edge to this first collection that beautifully translates from childhood to adulthood. - S.I. Bonpoint Boutique 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01 40 51 98 20 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 23

SHOPPING

Accessories

Loving the Louvre Designed in Paris and made in Choletais, handbag brand Louvreuse works to offer fashionistas art-inspired art. Paying tribute to the great masters, the collections are at once inspired and fun. Our favourite it-bag from the Made in France house is the Cleo bag in chic green velvet. Borrowing from the world’s most famous museum, the Louvre, the bag is a cool pyramid that creates a statement look whether worn for Sunday brunch or for a sexy date. - S.I. Louvreuse Boutique 14 rue Cler (7th), 01 42 73 53 10

Bringing Autumn to your Neckline Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest collection, Ciniglia, is her first collection for the upcoming autumn/winter collection, taking inspiration from the warm autumnal colours of the changing leaves and light. The collection features statement necklaces with very geometric shapes that add a touch of art deco to your décolletage and make quite the fashion statement. - S.I. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51 24 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

S H O P P I N G at Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann

A Dream Christmas FROM 7 NOVEMBER Under the breathtaking Galeries Lafayette Dome, the Paris mecca for shopping... Noel is on its way! Open the doors to a fairyland world and make your shopping trip an unforgettable experience. Find everything from the most prestigious to the more confidential brands and make your dreams come true. This department store is definitely an essential stop during any stay in Paris.

A break high above the city From the roof of the Galeries Lafayette, you can enjoy a unique view over Paris rooftops and magnificent monuments. Make yourself comfortable and enjoy a gourmet break or an aperitif inside cozy, warm igloos. A quiet moment far from the maddening crowds on the Grands Boulevards. Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann Main Store, Coupole, Terrace, 8th floor

Piaget fine jewellery UNTIL 28 FEBRUARY

The magical tree Hanging from the heart of the Dome, the fabulous Galeries Lafayette Christmas tree is itself a magnificent spectacle. As usual, this touching, dazzling sight will captivate you. In the same spirit of the shop windows on the boulevard Haussmann, dreams are in the spotlight!

Galeries Lafayette brings together prestigious jewellers of the place Vendôme most renowned for their “ancestral-contemporary” savoir-faire. For the end-of-year holidays, the House of Piaget is celebrated for its creativity and audacity. In an oasis of joie de vivre, the Piaget popup “Sunny Side of Life ” will be located on the 1st floor of the main store. A boon for those wanting to offer or preview exclusive pieces as Possession and thereby transform the end-of-year holidays into an unforgettable dream.

40 boulevard Haussmann - Paris 9e A D V E R T O R I A L

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann Main Store, Coupole, Ground floor, 1st floor 01 44 63 91 77 w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 25

SHOPPING For Him

Back to Fila Sportswear brand Fila is embracing vintage looks and celebrating them with its latest collection, Newstalgica. The new pieces see a nostalgic collection come together for both him and her, borrowing codes from the brand’s style in the 90s. The urban line includes hoodies, jackets, t-shirts and pants to cover from top to toe in Fila. - S.I. Available at Citadium 65 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 75 42 00

It is hard to believe but French ready-to-wear brand Eden Park has only just released its very first Made in France knit for men. And it was worth the wait. Part of the autumn/winter 2018/2019 collection, the pullover brings together the savoir-faire of French knitting atelier Real Stamm and Eden Park’s on-trend style for sportloving gentlemen. The knit is available in ivory and grey and is a knitted nod to Eden Park’s signature bowtie. - S.I. Eden Park Boutique 11 rue Lobineau (6th), 01 43 25 02 25 26 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Eden Park © Oleg Covian

French Knits

SHOPPING For Him

Roll of the Dice The RedLine red bracelet has become something of a cult accessory with fashionistas around the world with its one diamond delicately gliding around the signature string bracelet. Recently taking inspiration from the gaming world, RedLine has just released the dominos and dice bracelets for gentlemen, bringing the humble games to their wrists, and possibly creating a cult accessory for the masculine clientele. The bracelets are available in a myriad of colours including the house’s signature red, with diamonds adding spark to the dice and domino tiles. - S.I. RedLine Boutique and Showroom (By appointment only) 161 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 44 64 92 24

Time for Travellers Longines launched its sporty and elegant Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a timepiece geared towards frequent travellers, last September in Rome. The watch allows its wearer to easily change time zones either manually or by using the smart, light-driven management system known as the Flash Setting function that sets the watch using flash pulses from a smartphone. This watch is an extension of the house’s Conquest V.H.P (Very High Precision) family following on the three-handed and chronograph versions. Like other variations in the collection, this Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is outfitted with a cutting-edge ultraprecise movement, a Gear Position Detection that resets the hands after an impact or exposure to a magnetic field, a very long battery life and a perpetual calendar. The new watch is equipped with a second time zone and is stamped with Home Time and Travel Time symbols respectively at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock. - P.V. Longines Boutique 3 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 40 49 03 95 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 27

SHOPPING

Fragrances

FIVE SCENTS for November By Sandra Iskander

Burberry’s new scent, Her, is a floral bouquet brought to life with notes of jasmine and violet. The perfume leaves a sweet kiss on the skin thanks to its fruity notes of blackcurrant and raspberry. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

Luxury skincare brand Valmont has ventured into the world of perfume making and has released a collection of five scents inspired by Venice. The Storie Veneziane collection includes the Gaggia Medio I, a warm melange of amber, sandalwood and cardamom, bringing the romance and surprise encounters of the canal city to you. Valmont Spa Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

Elizabeth Arden’s new My Fifth Avenue perfume draws inspiration from New York’s famous avenue, bottling citrus notes, jasmine and cedarwood to recreate the energy and the sparkle of the avenue. Available at Nocibé 187 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 15 91 73

28 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Niche fragrance house Kilian has just launched its My Kind of Love collection of perfumes for millennials and the young scents are proving to be quite the original hits. With cheeky names and interesting mixes the collection offers fun unisex fragrances including Boys, which with notes of cinnamon, lime and vanilla is a sweet and fizzy cola-inspired spritz. Kilian Boutique 20 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 39 94 14

Illustrations © iStock 2018

Model Chris Collins has just released a trio of unisex fragrances that are inspired by his hometown Harlem and the City of Light. His Danse Sauvage perfume is spiced with pepper and chilli while the rose and patchouli rounds its sensuality. Available at Jovoy 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 40 20 06 19

SHOPPING Grooming

Chanel for Men Chanel has answered the prayers of many gentlemen by releasing its very first line of cosmetics for men. Boy de Chanel offers gentlemen looking to bring their grooming rituals an extra touch of French-ness a collection that includes all the basics for perfecting their look, a liquid foundation, a lip balm, and a waterproof eyebrow pencil. - S.I. Chanel Boutique 40 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 49 96 46 00

Chanel Photo © Chanel

Man’s Best Friend With no artificial colouring or synthetic scents, skincare brand for men, Bulldog is your perfect travel partner. Make sure you pop the face wash and moisturiser in your grooming bag for soft to the touch skin. With plane air-conditioning wreaking havoc on your skin it is important to clean and moisturise it daily, and with aloe vera and oat key ingredients in the products, you are promised great looking skin. - S.I. Available at Monoprix 107 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 53 75 89 50

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 29

SHOPPING Fashion

A Rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Wedding Date Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Make-Up Artist & Hair Stylist: Caroline Madisson Models: Naya Shtreys from UP Models and Christophe L from DMA

30 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Naya wears Zuhair Murad dress Chaumet white gold, diamond and peridot JosĂŠphine Aigrette ring, and white gold, diamond and aquamarine JosĂŠphine Aigrette ring Christophe wears Dior shirt and jacket Breitling Navitimer 8 Automatic watch

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 31

Cymbeline dress Emporio Armani boots dinh van white gold and diamond Le Cube Diamants cuff bracelet, Maillon Star ring and Maillon Learrings

32 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Diamant Blanc shirt and skirt Eres bra Michael Kors boots and belt Fred rose gold, diamond, rhodochrosite, pink quartz and amethyst Belles Rives necklace and earrings

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 33

StĂŠphanie Wolff skirt Eric Bompard top Diamant Blanc hooded cape Michael Kors boots David Yurman white gold, diamond and morganite earrings, and white gold and diamond ring

34 W H ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Naya wears Teets t-shirt (available at Galeries Lafayette) Donatelle Godart skirt Diamant Blanc veil Ritz Paris par Tasaki platinum and diamond necklace, and white gold and pearl ring Christophe wears Lanvin pants Dior shirt J.M. Weston shoes Breitling Navitimer 8 Chronograph watch w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35

Lambert CrĂŠations skirt Diamant Blanc top ChloĂŠ jacket Gianvito Rossi shoes HRH Joaillerie white gold and diamond Once Upon a Time cuff bracelet

36 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Naya wears Cymbeline dress Giuseppe Zanotti jacket Chanel Joaillerie white gold and diamond ring, necklace and earrings Christophe wears Lanvin suit and shirt J.M. Weston shoes w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 37

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Swarovski - 2 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.44.52.64. M° Rue du Bac

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille

Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),

01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon

SERGE LUTENS

| Beauty Spas & Products

38 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Richelieu-Drouot La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th),

Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th),

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde

JACADI

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

Meyrowitz - 5rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Children’s Clothing & Toys

Serge Lutens ©Anne Laymond

ACCESSORIES

SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chronopassion - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1rst), 01.42.60.50.72. M° Concorde Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra

HUBLOT

| Jewellery & Watches

Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

CHOPARD

01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moreau Paris - 49 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.70.38.77.00. M° Champs-Élysées - Clemenceau Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.60.58.39 M° Concorde

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard & Other Stories - 76 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.70.80.78.50. M° Chemin Vert

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg

Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

| Jewellery & Watches w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 39

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

AVE

ESN

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

NORÉ

ÉS

OÉT

CÉR

INE RU

’

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

UÉP

BOUR

ROQ

RUE DE SURÈNE

ATHU

DES M

ES MA

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

E SÈZE

INES

Lacoste •

•

INE

Omega•

APUC

Hackett •

RD S

DES C

EVA

RUE

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

•

Tommy Hilfiger

Vendôme

RUE D

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

EIN

IG LI O N E

Place

T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D

Dior

•

DEL

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

• Zwilling MA

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

T H U R IN

•Pucci

• •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • •Kilian • •Jimmy Choo Barrie • •Coach Nous Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • David Morris • Omega

• Burma Ciro pour

• Swarovski

• Marella

40 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Église de la Madeleine

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

R U E CA ST

RUE TRONCHET

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

•

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

•

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

• Césaire

ES MA

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Yohji Yamamoto

WEMPE

•

CONCORDE

•

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Lyobov • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

SHOP STOP

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

•• •

Lanvin

• •

Place de la Concorde

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

RUE D

NORÉ

RINS

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

O AST

RUE

RU E DE DU RA

MANN

M CA

ROQ

• Marina

RUE

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les René Caovilla • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

SHOP STOP

R D H A U SS

ESN

OÉT

B O U LE VA

MIR

IÈV

ESN

NT-HO

G SAI

MIR

E ED

•

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

Caron

26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 www.capelstore.fr

E ED

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

•

Pierre Cardin

OÉT

CAPEL With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.

Gringoire Joaillier

Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

L DE

CIER

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PER

•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

NUE

•

MIROMESNIL

• Sothys

Galeries •Bartoux

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Miu Miu

••

RUE ROYALE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

• UE D

LEI NE

Chanel

RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Marc Jacobs •David Morris INES

APUC

DES C

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

• AV

• ier An Lu na do Riv ab ka t rie lle Ge pp er t

• Kam’s

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE VIVIENNE

•

•D

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

RUE DE VALOIS

•

Galerie Vivienne

Pie

•

• •

•

• • •

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

’AB

by Terry Xavier Lust

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

• De Fursac

42 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

RUE RICHELIEU

Francesco Russo

ÉR

Acaba •

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

’OP

•

Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

L DE

Birkenstock

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•G

PALAIS ROYAL

Printemps du Louvre

CIN

•

• RedLine

SHOP STOP

E NU

•

É ’OP

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

FreyWille

RUE DE LA PA IX

ONORÉ

•Aésop

Vendôme

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

Place

Goyard •

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

Carrousel du Louvre

•

RUE S A IN T -H

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

Chopard

•Pomellato Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka •Moynat • TUILERIES Paul Smith• •Lyubov Christofle • • Burma •Stuart Weitzman Ami • •Balenciaga Missoni• Exemplaire • Manoush • •Akillis Kiehl’s• Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl •Christian Dior •Clergerie Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil The Kooples • •Cotélac

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

• Zwilling • Lipault

RUE S A IN T -H

RUE DE RIVOLI

Marella

RU E CA MB ON •

•Dubail

•

Swarovski

•

RU E CA ST IG LI ON

RUE TRONC HET

Église de la Madeleine

•Pucci

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

Dior U P H O

RU E CA MB ON

Max&Moi • • Roberto Cavalli Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com

MADELEINE

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

• Oliver Grant

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

Musée de l’Orangerie

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

AïZEA

Lyubov • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

RUE

CONCORDE

Burberry

•

• •

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

Aïzea

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

NUE

E AV

•

EN AV

• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

Kenzo

•

Armani Collezioni Hermès • • V

• Marionnaud Paris

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

IS 1 ER

ANÇO

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE FR

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany La Grande RUE • Récré LA RUE DE PONTHIEU

Lacoste • Omega • Eric Bompard• • AVE Bvlgari Dubail Ellie • • Zegna • Saab U Leonard Longchamp• Stefano Ricci • EA C • • R Christofle Altan Bottier Creed MA E RU U Suites • • EN AV • E PIE•RRLes EC Cartier •Givenchy H Rolex • A V R Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • RGE Audemars GEO Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud • • Burma RUE Tumi • Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • • Smalto OILL A E Wolford Diane Von • RBEU Furstenberg •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges O.J. Perrin Maje • • Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld AVE • Thomas • Harry • N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • • RUE DE MARIG E Repetto • Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli PSG • Miu Miu• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior•• Ralph Lauren ••• Chloé • Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine E

GE NUE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

ORG

ERB

SHOP STOP

RUE BALZAC

CEA

PIER

RE 1 ER DE S

OT UE

U AV EN U MA R

Hugo Boss

•

• Milady

AVE

CEA

LLOT

SANO

A EDL

RUE JEAN GIRAUDOUX

E BAS

FRI

AHO

ALILÉ

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE G

’IÉ UE D

RUE DE CHAI

EM AR CEA

D’IÉ

AC M

NUE AVE

NUE

AVE

D’IÉ

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

AVENUE KLÉBER

AVE

Maison Baccarat

SHOP STOP

55 ave des Champs-Élysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 47 / www.jmweston.com

DOUX

ALILÉ

Place des États-Unis

RUE D

J.M. Weston opens its new flagship store at 55 avenue des Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston reaffirms its bond with the most beautiful avenue in the world, where it has sat since 1932. The store was designed by French architect Joseph Dirand, and displays all the shoes and accessories collections of J.M. Weston in a creative 600 m2 space. The largest J.M. Weston store to date, it reveals the architect’s Art Deco inspirations that harken back to the roots and history of the House.

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

RUE G

Arc de Triomphe

Fabio Caviglia•

GAS BIJOUX

J.M. WESTON

ISTO

AVENUE KLÉBER

Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating solar jewelry for over 45 years, handmade by 80 craftsmen in its Marseille atelier. Today, Gas Bijoux is present in over 25 countries across the globe. 10 rue de Grenelle - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 11 28 26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 58 80 8 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

A Marina • VENU EV Rinaldi ICT OR H

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

BOÉ

TIE

•

LIS Disney ÉE • Gap • Zara

ELT

EJ EA

ALBERT

NG OU JO N

1ER KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

AVE

NUE

FRA

IN NKL

Zadig & Voltaire

Dammann • •Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or • Lancel

•

AVEN

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

COURS

44 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

NFÉRENCE

17 ave George V - Paris 8 M° George V www.cercledelacre.com

PORT DE LA CO

CERCLE DELACRE As a pioneer in men’s care, Delacre relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: Delacre is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

•Adidas

ATIG

NON

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

•

Guerlain •

RUE

BOU

HUR

LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

INS

OY AUR

MAT

ARTI

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

Bally Hackett Omega

• Camper •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty GR

EL OU

Tommy Hilfiger

DES

Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • • Repetto CA E Poiray Dunhill RU Corthay Y Christofle • • • Baume&Mercier Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Hugo Boss E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • Alexander McQueen • LA •Fred Zenith • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Marc Jacobs Bvlgari Anshindo • • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House •• Tasaki• • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O Chaumet M • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA Akillis • BO PYRAMIDES RU R ET • • Jovoy • HÉ Missoni Christian Dior R O MB

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

S DE MI RA PY ES ED RU

RO T-

ED U

PY ES

FreyWille •

ON OR

-H

• Astier de Villatte

ES É

• Vilebrequin

T LLE JUI 29

LG D’A E RU

-H

Sarah Lavoine •

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

ÈSE

•Clergerie

T-R

•

•Frank Namani

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

-H

At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

ACABA

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

AR D VI

R U E ÈD OU

• Max&Moi

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

•

ES CR IB

•

Golfino • •Loding

•Gant • •

RUE

BUCHERER PARIS

•

Sephora

Exaltation

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

INS

•

•Zwilling

• J.M. Weston Gorky Antiquités

Opéra Garnier

Fragonard

RUE

MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

CAUM

RUE

HUR

RUE BOUDREA U

GOD

OT D

RUE

E RU

Paraboot•

DES

SHOP STOP

RUE

MAT

U EA

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

DES

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

Galeries Lafayette Homme

RU E JO UB ER

RUE

HAVRE-CAUMARTIN

P R O V EN

’A EL

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

ADOR

Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût

RUE MOG ADOR

Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

VIGN

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Galeries du Diamant •

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Passage du Havre

Redline •

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 45

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

E AU V

CAR RUE

Moissonnier AC

ÉRES TS-P

CHE

RUE

•Silvera

Karl Lagerfeld

•

ULE

DRA

VÉ RI

RUE

L’A R DE

Montparnasse

• Rive Gauche

MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

•

UIN

VAU G RUE DE

IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

RUE DE TOURNON

• IUNX

•

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE SEINE

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE SERVANDONI

ASS

RUE MAD AME

ARN

Église Saint-Sulpice

RUE FÉROU

NTP

NES

REN

RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

RU E BO NA PA RT E

RUE

RUE DE TOURNON

NES

REN

RUE DES CANETTES

BVD

ES SA RU E D’OD

46 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

S PA IL ARD RA

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

RUE

BOULEV

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

DOT-DROPS

GON

S PA IL ARD RA

Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

• Guerlain • Wolford

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

EJ AC

RU E MA ZAR INE

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A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand presents a wonderful capsule collection for this winter: The Black Editions, an over-sized, ‘Cleated’ rubber sole showcased using a selection of contemporary black leathers.

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The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti

Ossip Zadkine taillant le bois de “Rebecca” ou “La grande porteuse d’eau”, dans son atelier de la rue d’Assas. Photographie anonyme, vers 1927. Paris, musée Zadkine

See the works of Ossip ZadKine (opposite page) 48 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Kate Moss, Moondance Life © Stephanie Pfriender Stylander, Courtesy Galerie de l’Instant, Paris; Odalisque ou Bayadère, 1932, Hêtre rouge polychrome. 70 x 180 x 50 cm. Arles, Musée Réattu

Ephemeral Beauty from an Untamed Eye A stunning series with Kate Moss, a street scene in Rome, and an iconic portrait of the French actress Béatrice Dalle are just some of the highly original, realistic and perfectly constructed photographs by Stephanie Pfriender Stylander. These photographs, among others, are being presented in a show entitled The Untamed Eye, after the photographer’s beautiful book of the same name, being held at the Galerie de l’Instant. Stephanie Pfriender Stylander began her career in the 1990s as a fashion and portrait photographer travelling between Milan, Paris and New York. Her style, nearly cinematographic, draws its inspiration from the Italian Neo-Realism film movement, the French New Wave and the aesthetic in the films of John Cassavetes. - P.V. Showing through to November 28th 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

A Material Journey Gilded wood, gilded plaster, marble, and oak, the materials used by the sculptor and artist Ossip Zadkine were myriad. To mark the 130th anniversary of the Russian-born artist’s birth, the Musée Zadkine, located in his home and studio in a quiet courtyard in the Montparnasse neighbourhood, is presenting a show entitled Zadkine, The Instinct of Material, showcasing the artist’s special and very natural relationship to the materials he used in his works and which for him would become formal powers. The veins and root nodules of wood, the density and the particles of rock, the fluidity of ink, they were for him materials that were rich in their own dynamic that the gesture of a mason or the hand of an artist had to grasp in return. A host of Zadkine’s sculptures as well as his graphic works are on display evoking the interior force that preserves the vital necessity of man’s link to nature. - P.V. Showing through to February 10th 100bis rue d’Assas (6th), 01 55 42 77 20 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 49

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

www.olwenforest.com

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition: Tamihito Yoshikawa Date: 15 November - 6 December

Musings on Moreau Tamihito Yoshikawa, Brise et ondée, 2018, 130 x 162cm MODERN MASTERS : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Kisling, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS : Aïzpiri, Cassigneul, Tom Christopher, Cottavoz, Lorenzo Fernandez, Fusaro, Chen Jiang-Hong, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 50 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

When Gustave Moreau left his home, studio and works to the French state, the artist, a major figure of Symbolism, wanted to convey the work of a lifetime. The museum, the Musée Gustave Moreau, conserves some 25,000 of his works some of which are sketches, which were qualified as abstract in the 20th century although questions still remain, for instance were they preparations for his figurative works or were they truly abstract works? An exhibition at the museum entitled Gustave Moreau towards the Dream and the Abstract, attempts to shed some light on these intriguing works. Some 100 works are on display, both paintings and watercolours, both figurative works and “abstract” works, some of which are being shown for the first time. Also on show and of particular interest are some 15 colour tests made by the painter who used colour to construct his works. - P.V. Showing through to January 21st 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld (9th), 01 48 74 38 50

Gustave Moreau (1826-1898), Jupiter et Sémélé, 1889, Huile sur toile ; 213x118 cm, Paris, musée Gustave Moreau, Cat. 91 © RMN-Grand Palais / René-Gabriel Ojéda

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

HANS HARTUNG Untitled, 1952, oil on canvas, 50,2 x 64,8 cm

Discover an extensive collection of Modern and Contemporary art.

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Zurich Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

Merchants made up one of the most powerful corporations in 18th century Paris, playing a major role in the rise of the luxury goods industry at the time. They were atypical, trading in embellished items, objects they assembled themselves or second-hand items while maintaining close connections to the aristocracy and cultivating an international network of artists exercising the finest in technical and artistic specialties whether they came from Lyon or China. For the first time an exhibition, being held at the Musée Cognacq-Jay, is exploring their essential role in the dissemination of French art and luxury. Entitled La Fabrique du luxe: les marchands merciers parisiens au XVIIIe siècle (The Fashioning of Luxury: Parisian Merchants of the 18th Century), the show brings together 100 works of art, objects, documents and archives illustrating the origins of Parisian-style luxury. - P.V. Showing through to January 27th 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01 40 27 07 21

The Ring The fascinating collection of men’s rings assembled by the antique dealer Yves Gastou is being showcased in an exhibition being held in the exhibition space in the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, which is supported by the high jewellery house of Van Cleef & Arpels. A Gothic, even mystical world unfolds in the show in which a breathtaking selection of 500 rings is on display. It is a historical collection with rings from ancient Egypt, rings of the 17th century Venetian doges, 18th century enamelled rings, 19th century memento mori skull rings, American biker rings of the 1970s as well as rings by contemporary artists. The choice of rings is representative of the seven themes of the collection, neoclassical, chivalry, Gothic, religious, vanities, ethnic and oddities. In conjunction with the exhibition, a book, Men’s Rings, has been published by Albin Michel. - P.V. Through to November 30th Mon-Sat 12pm-7pm 31 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01 70 70 36 00 52 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Anonyme, Cage à oiseaux, vers 1750-1751. Fer peint et porcelaine. Musée des Arts Décoratifs © MAD, Paris; Rings from the Yves Gastou Collection Photo © Arnaud Carpentier

The Fashioning of Luxury

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Gustave Caillebotte, La Berge du Petit Gennevilliers et la Seine, 1890, huile sur toile, 153 x 127 cm, collection particulière © Christian Baraja SLB; Illustration du chapitre Ukifune du Dit du Genji. Émaux cloisonnés, Japon, vers 1901, 69 x 69 cm, Londres, collection Khalili © The Khalili Collections of Japanese Art

Exhibitions

A Private Promenade An astounding exhibition of masterpieces of Impressionism, Fauvism and the major art currents that marked French art up until the 20th century is on display at the Musée Marmottan Monet. Entitled Private Collections: A Journey from the Impressionists to the Fauves, it brings together 62 paintings, drawings and sculptures emanating from private collections, many of which have never been shown before in France. No less than 19 works by Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Degas and Caillebotte inaugurate the show, which features landscapes of Rouen, the picturesque seaside towns of Varengeville-sur-Mer and Bordighera, bouquets of chrysanthemums, elegant portraits of women and still lifes. Highlights of the show include the monumental work Le Pont de l’Europe (The Bridge of Europe) by Gustave Caillebotte, the artist’s last monumental work in private hands as well as rare works by Seurat, Signac, Rysselberghe but also Van Gogh, representing the Neo-Impressionist side of the show. - P.V. Showing through to February 10th 2 rue Louis-Boilly (16th), 01 44 96 50 33

Imperial Splendours The Musée National des Arts Asiatiques - Guimet is hosting an exhibition filled with beautiful works and objects to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Meiji era, the period from 1868 to 1912, a period that would be pivotal in the history of Japan. The show, entitled Meiji, Splendours of Imperial Japan, brings together over 350 pieces illustrating the variety and sumptuousness of this little-known period in the history of Japanese art. The show takes a look at Japan from the inception of Emperor Meiji’s rule during which the country would open up to the rest of the world and its industry and economy would become Westernised. During this time artistic and craft creativity abounded as the show demonstrates through myriad objects like a lacquered incense burner in silver, gold, gilded bronze and topped off with a falcon as well as an array of enamelled boxes and vases. - P.V. Showing through to January 14th 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01 56 52 53 44 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 53

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

A Lavish Art and Craft An astonishing exhibition entitled Piqué, Gold, Tortoiseshell and Motherof-Pearl in 18th century Naples is being held by the Galerie J. Kugel revealing the art of piqué, which flourished in Naples during the first half of the 18th century. It entailed a technique that combined lavish inventiveness, virtuoso skills and opulence. These objects, all of them extraordinary, bring together three precious materials, tortoiseshell, gold and mother-of-peal. The exhibition includes over 50 objects created between 1720 and 1760, mainly for connoisseurs and the court and particularly for the splendid court of Charles of Bourbon who would become king of Naples in 1734. One of the masterpieces on display is a shimmering table by Giuseppe Sarao on loan for the very first time from the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg. The craftsmen who created the pieces were known as tartarugari and Sarao’s workshop adjoined the walls of the royal palace. To create these objects, the craftsmen would join and mould the tortoiseshell using boiling water and olive oil and also inlaid gold and the mother-of-pearl into the still soft shells. - P.V. Showing through to December 8th 25 quai Anatole France (7th), 01 42 60 86 23

A Castle of Kings The Château of Fontainebleau is one of the largest of the French royal castles, a residence for seven centuries to France’s sovereigns and today it is hosting an exhibition devoted to one of its illustrious inhabitants, King Louis-Philippe. The exhibition entitled Louis-Philippe in Fontainebleau, the King and History, brings together some 200 works to portray King Louis-Philippe as well as a fundamental period in the history of the great castle that is Fontainebleau. For the king would undertake an ambitious programme of renovating and restoring the royal residences, including Fontainebleau, which would become one of his favourites. The exhibition is being held in the Grands Appartements of the castle and brings together portraits, tales from guests, theatre programmes and ceremonial jewels while offering an introduction into life at the court of King LouisPhilippe. - P.V. Showing from November 3rd through to February 4th 77300 Fontainebleau, 01 60 71 50 70 54 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Lidded goblet surmounted by a monkey playing the flute Tortoiseshell piqué with gold and mother-of-pearl. Attributed to Giuseppe Sarao, Naples, circa 1730-1740, H. 31 cm; D. 13.9 cm. Provenance: -Baron Mayer Carl von Rothschild, Frankfort (1820-1886) - Baroness Theresa de Rothschild (1847-1931), his daughter (wife of James de Rothschild) ; Winterhalter, Franz Xaver (1805-1873) Portrait de Louis-Philippe en habit bourgeois, 1839 Localisation: Balleroy, château Photo © DR

Exhibition

CLEMENCEAU GEORGES

Free of charge for under 26 year-olds* * citizens of the European Union and offi cial non-European residents of the European Union

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

CATHEDRALE DE LA SAINTE-TRINITE This Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in the

Arc de Triomphe

56 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (1025€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

EIFFEL TOWER

LUXEMBOURG GARDEN

Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s

This lovely garden with tranquil walkways,

La Conciergerie

Eiffel Tower

Russian Orthodox spiritual and cultural centre. Its five smooth gold onion domes covered in 90,000 leaves of gold are topped by Russian orthodox crosses with the highest standing at over 36 metres. Daily 2pm-7pm, guided tours 12-7pm. 1 Quai Branly (7th). M° Alma-Marceau

LA CONCIERGERIE

Photos iStock 2018 : Panthéon © Borchee; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy

Panthéon

Photos iStock 2018 : Luxembourg Garden, Fontaine Medicis © mdmworks; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Franck Reporter; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Place des Vosges © Full Nikada; Pont des Arts / Institute of France © Jacob Thue; Sacré-Coeur © Golero; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw ;Tuileries Garden © Consu1961

Luxembourg Garden

superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

Panthéon

Sacré-Coeur

PANTHEON

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE

An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. From Nov 1 through to Feb 10 Clemenceau, le courage de la République, brings together some 140 objects revolving around Georges Clemenceau. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

Place des Vosges

PLACE DES VOSGES

Notre-Dame Cathedral

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS

Sainte Chapelle

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Pont des Arts

PONT DES ARTS

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).

The Tuileries Garden

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Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. SatMon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES | Attractions 58 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée

Flight Experience Paris

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Temporary exhibitions, educational displays and workshops are all on the agenda. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature. The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational

AQUARIUM DE PARIS CINÉAQUA | Attractions

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tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

DAY TRIPS

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Rex Studios

Château de Versailles

Château de Fontainebleau

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing.

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr

REX STUDIOS | Attractions w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 59

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Institut Giacometti

this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Institut du Monde Arabe

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building,

MUSÉE DE L’HOMME | Museums & Foundations 60 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/ Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with

MUSÉE DES ARTS ET MÉTIERS | Museums & Foundations

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

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books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

Musée du Vin

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Musée de l’Orangerie

Palais de Tokyo

Musée d’Orsay

Petit Palais

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

MUSÉE GUIMET | Museums & Foundations

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

MUSÉE DE LA VIE ROMANTIQUE | Museums & Fondations w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 61

The Guide

DINING

La Felicità brings you a whole new world of food market dining (opposite page)

62 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Italian Fare | Bistro Dining | Crêpes | French Cuisine | Best of Breakfast

DINING

Restaurants

Food Markets Just Got Cool Forget dining the orthodox way, the way to dine now is the food market way, as proven by the Big Mamma Group’s new successful La Felicità restaurant. While many may think eating “street food” style doesn’t necessarily translate into a great meal, La Felicità has changed the rules and shown that a food market can be fun, affordable and delicious. Set in the spacious Station F, the restaurant is made up of different stalls offering the best of the group’s Italian dishes. Once you arrive grab a map of the “restaurant” and make your way to one of the many welcoming eating areas before deciding on what will be on your menu. Perhaps start at the Cocktail Bar for a signature cocktail to be enjoyed with Parmesan and burrata cheese from the Il Gran Aperitivo before deciding on grabbing a pizza, a big bowl of spaghetti or even a burger from the Sexy Burger stand. The trick here if you are two or in a group, is to pick your table and take turns in making your way around the “market” and ordering your food or else your spot could easily be taken by other diners, as there are no reservations here at La Felicità.. – S.I. La Felicità 55 blvd Vincent Auriol (13th)

Dining in Saint-Germain Under a colourful verrière (glass-paned roof) by artist Fabrice Hyber, Le Saint Germain is the lively and fashionable restaurant at the heart of the recently renovated and reopened Hotel Lutetia, the elegant limestone grand dame of a building that was built by the Boucicault family, founders of the Bon Marché department store, in 1910 to offer luxurious lodgings to the clients of their store. With a handsome décor of oak herringbone parquet floors and mocha leather armchairs by interior architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, this restaurant serves all day long from breakfast, through to lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Under the direction of executive chef Benjamin Brial, the menu at Le Saint Germain is as worldly and casually sophisticated as the neighbourhood itself. Start with tuna and avocado tartare or a salad of baby lettuce with sliced radishes, extra virgin olive oil and lemon and then try the lobster club sandwich or a Caesar salad with carabineros (red Spanish prawns) or, if your hungrier, roast cod with white beans, courgettes and yuzu or poached chicken with baby carrots, candied kumquats and a verbena bisque. The dessert not to miss? The chocolate ganache flavoured with timut pepper and served with fleur de sel cocoa sorbet. – A.L. Le Saint Germain Hotel Lutetia 45 blvd Raspail (6th), 01 49 54 46 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 63

DINING

Restaurants

Bistro Dining on the Canal Caroline Savoy may be the daughter of three-star chef Guy Savoy, but her brilliant gastronomic style is all her own. With her partner Bruno, she opened Vivre, a popular contemporary bistro near the Opera two years ago, and now they’ve opened a second branch of this excellent address in the lively young neighbourhood that runs along the atmospheric Canal Saint Martin in eastern Paris. The menu here changes regularly and a recent dinner at Vivre Canal Saint Martin was composed of superb dishes that were a perfect reflection of the season. An heirloom tomato was stuffed with feta cheese, chopped tomato, thyme and pistou sauce, a light healthy dish with a lot of flavour, and vegetables (carrots, potatoes, courgettes) served in finely sliced curls on a bed of cervelle de canut (fresh cheese seasoned with herbs, garlic and shallots and a speciality of Lyon) was excellent. From Wednesday to Saturday, there’s a different casserole-dish special on offer every night (in order, pot au feu, blanquette de veau, bouillabaisse, sautéed kidneys), but since we dined on a Monday, we tucked into a succulent pork belly served with roasted aubergines and homemade barbecue sauce and roasted lamb with white beans, pickled lemons, sautéed kale and aioli, two brilliant and deeply satisfying dishes. – A.L.

Crêpes and Cocktails Paris is known for its creamy pastries but nothing beats the humble crêpe. And in the 17th arrondissement is where Brutus invites you to sit down and taste a traditional crêpe with your topping of choice. Salted caramel, chocolate, Chantilly cream or ice-cream are all delicious options to top the delicate thin pancake that is ideally served with chilled cider or one of the house’s signature cocktails, a personal favourite is the Merveilleux, with vodka, lime and a splash of cider. Brutus also serves savoury crêpes that are appetisingly filled with French delicacies, cheese, ham and even sardines. – S.I. Brutus 99 rue des Dames (17th), 09 86 53 44 00 64 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Vivre Canal Saint Martin 60 rue de Lancry (10th), 01 42 40 72 38

DINING

Restaurants

Back to Basics Young chef Jérémie Tourdjman is putting aside his age and his generation’s obsession with trendy modern cuisine, and is instead embracing the Paris of yesteryear with a cuisine that spells out French fare à la bourgeoisie. From the elegant décor to the silverware, at Jérémie you step into the chic side of Parisian dining. Trained at the Cordon Bleu and Ferrandi Culinary School, the chef serves classics such as veal sweetbread served with eggplant caviar and grilled onions, sautéed frog legs with persillade, and beef filet with a pepper sauce served with seasonal vegetables and macaroni gratin with aged Parmesan cheese. The dessert is equally French with the chef’s signature offering, the millefeuille, made to order with an airy vanilla cream and drizzled with salted caramel sauce. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and for dinner on Saturday nights. – S.I. Jérémie 33 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01 47 04 96 81

Best in Bistros Meeting a French friend for dinner, I arrived at Le Bouledogue, a terrific traditional French bistro, with a solid appetite. Arriving, I liked it as soon as I stepped in the door, because its appearance and atmosphere were so thoroughly Parisian, with a long bar running along one wall and dark wooden chairs facing a tufted black banquette on the opposite wall. Framed drawings (including one by designer Christian Lacroix) and paintings of the animal that gave the restaurant its name, the bulldog, hang on the walls, and the dining room had the comfortable and companionable buzz created by a contented crowd of local regulars. Choosing from a menu that privileges traditional freshly prepared French dishes, our meal was delicious, too. Tempted by the marinated herring, I preferred the grilled marinated vegetables with a poached egg, while my friend opted for the wonderfully vielle France marinated leeks. Next, a succulent confit de canard (duck preserved in its own fat and then grilled) with thick homemade frites and grilled yellow Pollack with crushed potatoes seasoned with olive oil, lemon and chives. Since portions are generous here, we shared a nougat glace, ice-cream with nougat and candied fruit, in a red-fruit coulis for dessert. Service is charming and the wine list is fairly priced and excellent. – A.L. Le Bouledogue 20 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01 40 27 90 90 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 65

DINING

Restaurants

Indonesian Dining The warm elegant atmosphere at Djakarta Bali, a charming Indonesian restaurant in the centre of Paris, is explained by the fact that the Hanafi family have been welcoming guests here ever since 1985. There’s a fascinating backstory here, too, the senior Mr Hanafi had been the Indonesian ambassador to Cuba and a government minister, but chose to stay abroad after a regime change in Indonesia. “We receive guests at our restaurant like we would receive them in our home,” says Nina Hanafi, his gracious daughter, who founded the restaurant, where the dining room is dominated by a golden Buddha, silk banner and slate walls. Unless you’re a knowledgeable fan of Indonesian cooking, the best way to meet the varied kitchen of this island nation in southeast Asia is with the excellent value 35-euro Bandung Menu Rijsttafel (the word rijsttafel means rice table in Dutch, and is how the Dutch refer to this sort of tasting menu in a country that was their colony for three centuries). You start with the soothing Soto Ayam, a rich chicken soup with rice and vegetables, and continue with lumpia, deep-fried spring rolls, chicken satay (peanut sauce), and umami rich rending daging, beef marinated in coconut milk with Indonesian herbs. By turns delicate and fully flavoured, Indonesian cooking is soothing, sophisticated and sensual, and this is a wonderful place to discover it. – A.L. Djakarta Bali 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01 45 08 83 11

It may not be the name that brings you to the table but Balls is one of the city’s cool hipster eateries where everything on the menu is freshly made everyday and caters to every taste. The specialty here is, as the name may suggest, “balls”, and you will find meatballs in all its variety, beef, chicken and pork, and you will also find the vegetarian variation made with quinoa. This is a great spot if you’re looking for good, affordable food in a casual setting. The menu also offers sides that are as delicious as the mains including the lentil salad with feta cheese and the fries seasoned with pecorino cheese and rosemary. Balls also has a talent behind the bar with signature cocktails making for a perfect accompaniment to your meal, in particular the Whits Balls mixed with pisco lemon juice and ginger beer. – S.I. Balls 27 rue de Douai (9th), 09 52 83 33 04 66 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Forget the Name

DINING

Restaurants

Best of Breakfast They say it is the most important meal of the day and when in the French capital breakfast is a mouthful of sweetness. While a buttery croissant from a local bakery with your café is very Français, Paris offers some other wonderful places to start your day on a delicious note. Referred to as the breakfast home, Claus specialises in the morning meal offering Nordic, British and French specialties to help you start your day on the right foot. Freshly baked cakes, eggs, savoury sandwiches and pastries are all on the menu. Claus 14 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01 42 33 55 10 Nestled behind the L’Occitane beauty counters, the Pierre Hermé café (right) and restaurant is one of the best places to enjoy breakfast, especially if you prefer to start your day with dessert. While you will find everything from eggs to cereals, the standout pièce de résistance here is the Pain Perdu, a generous slice of caramelised brioche bread with real salted butter. The eatery also boasts a coffee bar ready to serve your favourite caffeine fix. 86Champs 86 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 38 77 38 Famous for its Montblanc dessert, Angelina is one of our favourite breakfast spots. Enjoy the house’s equally famous hot chocolate and do like the French and dip your golden croissant in it for a double hit of goodness to help you feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside while the temperature starts to drop outside. Angelina 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00

A Rolling Lunch Wheeling and dealing in the City of Light just got literal thanks to Bustoqué. The new restaurant on wheels is a great business lunch option where time is of the essence and lunches are served in an hour and a half guaranteeing that long waits between dishes is a no-no. The bus offers different routes letting you choose the perfect backdrop to your meal, perhaps a Saint-Germain tour with your foie gras or opt for a tour of the Right Bank to complement your sweet éclair for dessert. Seats are limited so reservations are a must. Dinner tours are also organised, ideal for visitors looking to see the beauty of the City of Light by night. – S.I. Bustoqué Place de la Concorde (8th) Reserve online at bustoque.fr or call 06 21 40 20 41 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67

DINING

Restaurants Advertorial

LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com st

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

68 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.

Open Daily ~ Valet Service ~ Patios ~ Private Rooms

Moulin Vert Menu All inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif ~ Starter ~ Main course ~ Dessert Wine ~ Coffee www.legrandbistro.fr

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37

SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37

TERNES 69 avenue de Wagram - Paris 17 +33 1 43 80 63 54

Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Private Rooms

New automn carte by Les Frères Pourcel Best seafood oysters in Paris

1998-2006

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 69

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter

with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

Nicolas

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€) (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

FAUCHON | Food & Wine (8th) 70 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

AUX LYONNAIS | Bistro (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French

(€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Le Bouledogue - Traditional French Cuisine (€€) For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm. 20 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01.40.27.90.90. M° Rambuteau

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts

(omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE MONTPARNASSE 1900 | Classic French (6th)

ALCAZAR | Brasserie (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71

DINING

Address Book Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th)

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an

exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

MAISON BLANCHE | Contemporary (8th) 72 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

APICIUS | Contemporary (8th)

DINING

Address Book wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters,

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

ReminiSens - Classic French

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt (€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE BAR À HUÎTRES | Seafood (14th)

L’ABEILLE | Gourmet (16th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

Cirque du Soleil demonstrates evolution in a way only they can (page 76)

74 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

ENTERTAINMENT

Events

Cocktails and Cabarets Fall into Nolinski Hotel’s cabaret dream when the Grand Salon welcomes a line-up of extraordinary performers. One night per month the intimate space welcomes sexy burlesque dancers, singers and even a juggler to intoxicate guests with their talents, and this month the 9th of November marks the date for the L’Esprit Cabaret au Grand Salon. And on the 16th of November American showman Brian Scott Bagley is welcomed into the Grand Salon for a fun-filled show with dancing, singing and a whole lot of personality. For the Brian is in the Nolinski evening, the head barman has created three original cocktails including Frenemies, which mixes pisco, lime and kiwi liqueur for an exotic accompaniment to the show..- S.I.

Nolinski Hotel 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10

Coffee, Croissants and Poetry Celebrating the nostalgia of 18th century salons, La Réserve is animating breakfast once a month with a literary gathering in its cosy library. Hosted by French journalist and writer Olivier Barrot, La Réserve en Poésie invites guests to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast to the sounds of French poetry. This month sees Arthur Rimbaud celebrated on Saturday the 10th of November, with Barrot reading extracts from the French poet’s works. The poetic breakfast is held at 9.30am and a book by the featured author is gifted to the guests. Places are limited so it is advised to reserve in advance. - S.I. La Réserve Hotel and Spa 42 ave Gabriel (8th), 01 58 30 60 50 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 75

ENTERTAINMENT Shows

All that Jazz! The City of Light transforms into Jazz Age Chicago through to June 2019 when the musical Chicago takes over the Théâtre Mogador. The long running musical is coming to Paris to show off its prowess in transporting the audience to the 1920s where Velma Kelly is arrested in Chicago for the murder of her husband and her sister, and her eventual run in with the famous Roxie Hart. The incredible show is a medley of great dance performances and songs including All that Jazz. Performed in French with English surtitles. - S.I. Théâtre Mogador 25 rue de Mogador (9th), 01 53 32 32 32

Under a big top set up in the luscious Bois de Boulogne the Cirque du Soleil troupe interpret the evolution of mankind as only they could via the show Totem. Through acrobatic performances, roller skating dances and body contorting, the audience is drawn into the cycle of evolution, with man slowly evolving from an amphibian state on stage. The breath-taking show, which is playing until the 2nd of December, is meticulously choreographed with unicyclists, swinging acrobats and trapeze artists each representing a different stage of life and mankind’s dreams including that of flying. - S.I. Tickets at Fnac. Plaine de Jeux de Bagatelle 149 Allée du Bord de l’Eau (16th), 01 40 67 98 18 76 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 18

Evolution is a Circus Act

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts

La Divina in Concert One of the most famous opera singers of her time, the late Maria Callas is coming to concert, courtesy of The Hologram Tour. The Salle Pleyel is hosting the new-generation concert on the 28th and the 30th of November with the singer taking centre stage to perform thanks to the Base Hologram technology that brings artists to life. This unique concert allows the audience to experience one of the greatest voices in a very exceptional atmosphere. - S.I.

Kylie in Paris She is one of the most popular Australian singers of our time with a musical career that has spanned 3 decades, and now Kylie Minogue is heading to the City of Light for an intimate show on the 9th of November. Taking the stage at La Seine Musicale for one show only, Kylie Minogue will be performing songs from her latest studio album, Golden, with a few of her greatest hits. You can get your tickets at Fnac. - S.I. La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00 78 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 18

Callas en concert ÂŠ 2018 Base Holograms, LLC

Salle Pleyel 252 rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ (8th), 01 76 49 43 13

ADVERTORIAL

ENTERTAINMENT

Advertorial

Bel Canto, Dining Opera Show Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young professional opera stars of the future. Daily D only from 7:30pm.

72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie Tel: 01 42 78 30 18 6 rue du commandant Pilot 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine Tel: 01 47 47 19 94 www.lebelcanto.com

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 79

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Secret Cocktails Somewhere in the Buddha Bar hides Secret 8, a speakeasy that is so secret that not only is its entrance hidden but it is accessed only with a password that changes every month. Solve the riddle found on the bar’s website (www.secret8bybuddhabar.com) and Instagram account (@secret8bybuddhabar) and you are welcomed with open arms into the secret bar. Once inside, head barman, Régis Célabe will surprise you with his 8 creations, each cocktail served in original and unique glasses curated from secret addresses around the world, playing further into the mystery of the bar. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 2am, the bar can only accommodate 25 at a time so reservations are highly recommended. - S.I. Secret 8 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 53 05 90 39

Spending time in Paris and enjoying a jazz concert is one of the things many people dream of doing, and this month, every Thursday night, the famous Les Deux Magots café will be hosting jazz soirées, creating a magical evening for visiting tourists. From 7.30pm to 10.30pm, the café will be welcoming guest performers including the Sandro Zerafa Trio, Melina Tobiana Trio and Dimitry Baevsky Trio, who will transport guests to the heyday of the café when Jean-Paul Sartre was a regular and jazz music was the only sound whispering in the air in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood. You can visit www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/en for the full programme. - S.I. Les Deux Magots 6 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th), 01 45 48 73 57 80 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 18

Just Jazz

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of

becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared

for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM + SUNDAY @ 6PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

Sans titre-5 1

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81 01/06/2017 11:51

Cabarets Crazy Horse

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

FASHION FREAK SHOW This latest addition to the Parisian cabaret scene is the masterwork of the French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. This highly original revue, which is performed on the stage of the Folies Bergère, celebrates life and fashion and features actors, dancers and circus acts. Tues-Sat 8pm & Sat-Sun 3pm. www.foliesbergere.com Folies Bergère, 32 rue Richer (9th),01 44 79 98 60 M° Grands Boulevards

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular 82 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 20 18

journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

CRAZY HORSE

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €180 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face

BAR DU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE | Bars & Wine Bars (8th) 84 W H E R E PA R I S I N OO C TO B EBRE R2018 VEM 2018

the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Juveniles

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar Long

CASINO

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

JAZZ CLUBS

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy

Caveau de la Huchette

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

KLÉBER BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (16th)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS

armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Le Mona Lisa

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield

LES JARDINS DU PONT NEUF

Silencio

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Le Bel Canto

Palais Maillot

Le Double Fond

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and

| Bars & Wine Bars (1st)

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

TITTY TWISTER

| Night Clubs (8th) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 85

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

PARIS DISTRICTS

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques. 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

HAIR SALONS

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

www.parismap.fr 86 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the

sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie. 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT

Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TO ORLY AIRPORT

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

YOUR KEY TO

PARIS

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

www.parismap.fr

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 87

SERVICES

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

88 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

FREE INTERACTIVE

MAP OF PARIS www.parismap.fr

tiersPageV3.indd 2

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 89 09/07/15 22:59

My Paris

ALEXANDRE GRECO

HEAD CONCIERGE AT GRAND HOTEL DU PALAIS ROYAL

Lulli Restaurant

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty? What’s more beautiful than watching the sunset aboard an exceptional boat? Take a cruise along the Seine to see the most beautiful monuments and illuminated museums such as the Eiffel Tower, the Alexandre III Bridge, the Orsay Museum or Notre Dame. The experience can continue in Montmartre, in the typical cobblestone streets of this district that will lead you to the square of the basilica du Sacré Coeur, offering a magnificent view of Paris, the City of Light! As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try? Paris is surely the most gastronomical city in the world! It is difficult to choose only three. First, Lulli, the restaurant of the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal offers seasonal cuisine brilliantly performed by our chef Jean Baptiste Orieux. A few steps from Place des Victoires, Les Fines Gueules is a bistro of character with a clientele accustomed to inventive cuisine and where natural wines are in the spotlight. For a unique dining experience, I recommend the Kei restaurant. In a refined decor, chef Kei offers a resolutely French cuisine with Japanese aesthetics and precision. 90 W HE R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2018

Pottoka

Rodin Museum

Eiffel Tower

What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris? The Louvre, the former Royal Palace, today the largest museum in the world is for me an essential stopover during a stay in Paris. The Eiffel Tower, both by day and by night, impresses with its grandeur, beauty and the incredible story of its construction. Finally, the majestic Alexandre III Bridge, built for the 1900 World Fair, offers a perspective on the Eiffel Tower and the Invalides Hotel.

discover the city in a fun way. Finally, the Museum of Hunting and Nature located in the Marais is also very popular with children

If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Right Bank or the Left Bank? Definitely Rive Droite! All shopping enthusiasts will tell you. Rue Saint-Honoré for its French and international luxury shops, the galleries of the Palais Royal and the Marais district for creators.

Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats? It is usual for Parisian people to skip breakfast and Brunch on Sundays. The Marais district is very pleasant to enjoy with these streets closed to traffic. By Season offers an organic and healthy brunch to finish the week. The tea time of Jacques Génin in the Marais is excellent, one of my favourite Paris-Brest!

What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance? A walk hand in hand in the gardens of the Palais Royal followed by a dinner at Le Grand Véfour, wonderful classic French restaurant where Guy Martin, chef with 2 Michelin stars, officiates.

What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city? The Lulli Bar at the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers cocktails prepared by our barmen mixologists in a cosy atmosphere. For a festive atmosphere, I suggest the Candelaria on Rue Saintonge, a cocktail club hiding behind a Mexican tacos restaurant.

My Perfect Day 9am: Visit the Rodin Museum

What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital? The Eiffel Tower offers the best view of the city. From the 1st or the 2nd floor, it becomes easy to tell the history of Paris. The cruise on the Seine allows families to

12pm: Lunch at Pottoka 3pm: Shopping in the Marais 9pm: Diner at Coq Rico restaurant in Montmartre

where

Your Guide to the World

Alexander III Bridge iStock photo 2018 © Thomas Sereda; Pottoka © & Sens ; Eiffel Tower iStock photo 2018 © IpMaesstro; Rodin Museum © Hervé Abbadie; Lulli Restaurant

Alexandre III Bridge

“The élégante allows time to be stopped and started again, the dream of every watchmaker” François-Paul Journe

The revolutionary horological concept Eight years of development were required to conceive this gem of innovation, technical performance, precision and comfort. The élégante provides 8 to 18 years of autonomy depending if in daily use or in standby mode. Today the élégante features the only haute horology electromechanical movement made for the luxury market with a true vision of luxury.

The Boutique Paris 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré +33 1 42 68 08 00 paris@fpjourne.com Dubail 21, Place Vendôme 75001 Paris + 33 1 42 61 11 17 Les Montres Bonaparte 58, Rue Bonaparte 75006 Paris + 33 1 46 34 71 38 Les Montres Passy 40, Rue de Passy 75016 Paris + 33 1 53 92 51 61

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