Wine Country International

Discovering Spain’s Ribera del Duero wine region

Amazing people, wines, and foods

Grape Expectations: Tempranillo

Food For Thought: Massimo Bottura’s Offerta Fantastica in Modena

Editors Letter

This issue features our visit to Spain’s dynamic Ribera Del Duero wine region, where talented growers and winemakers use new techniques to create high-quality wines from high-altitude vineyards. We loved the historic towns, ancient underground wine caves, and joyous cuisine.

Elizabeth Woessner’s Grape Expectations feature aptly focuses on Tempranillo, the third most-produced red grapes in the world. This bold red wine pairs perfectly with a kaleidoscope of foods.

Darcy and I traveled to Scotland in April. We found that Icelandair offered the best route from Denver to Glasgow, connecting through the capital city of Reykjavik. On our way home, we decided to have a three-day stopover in Iceland. We found this island enchanting, and the scenery was postcard perfect. I hope you will enjoy my photos as much as I enjoyed creating them.

Chef Massimo Bottura is Italy’s most famous celebrity chef. He has built a culinary empire in his native Modena, becoming the spokesperson extraordinaire for all the bounties of Emilia Romagna. His three-Michelin Star Osteria Francescana has been knighted the best restaurant in the world several times over the past decade, rivaling the likes of Noma, Eleven Madison Park, and El Bulli. We had a wonderful afternoon experiencing Chef Bottura’s second, more wallet-friendly Franceschetta58 in Modena.

Santé!

CJD

Cover Photo: Stunning hillside in Atauta’s ancient cellar district. This spot is where families built small limestone buildings that led to aging cellars above vineyards in the valley below.

Christopher J Davies, (C) María Ángeles Martín, PR & Tourism Manager, Bodegas Pradorey, Darcy R. Davies

Wine Country International ® Magazine

Christopher J. Davies, Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher

Darcy R. Davies, Co-Founder & Design Director

Copy Editor: Elizabeth Woessner

Wine Education Editor, Ron Kapon

Lifestyle Editor, V.G. Walsh

Director of Photography, Christopher J. Davies

Contributing Editors:

Simone FM Spinner, Elizabeth Woessner

Blair Bowman, Michael Long and Larry Wilcox

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EDITORS LETTER

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

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All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or part without the written permission of the publisher.

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COOKING THE BOOKS

SPIRITED CHAT

RAMBLE ABOUT

Pages 3

Pages 8-9 Eimverk Distillery

Page 14-15

Aranda de Duero

Pages 10-13 Franceschetta58

Pages 6

Book Riviews

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

DESTINATIONS

PARTING SHOTS

Pages 38-96

COVER FEATURE: RIBERA DEL DUERO

Page 61 Cheese

Pages 16-21 Tempranillo

Pages 26-36 Iceland in 72 Hours

bourbon producers change the centurieslong tradition of how Scottish distillers age their whiskies? For answers to these questions and many more, I guess you will have to read the book.

Saga Premium makes flying comfortable with priority boarding, gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, lounge access, and more.

Enjoy the benefits.

Eimverk Distillery, Iceland

Last month we spent 72 hours in Iceland on our return trip to Denver from Glasgow. We visited the Blue Lagoon, The Geyser, and Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik. This place is a photographer’s dream; just stunning. We loved our Saga Business Class seats and service. The Saga Lounge was stocked with delicious foods, wines, and spirits! Walking through the duty-free shop, we came across Flóki Icelandic Single Malt Whisky.

We reached out to the distillery upon our return. They generously sent us samples of their single-malt whisky. Our senior judges Jonathan Odde and Nicolas Post joined me for a tasting

Flóki Icelandic Single Malt Whisky

87 points

A young, malty whisky with bright green grass and earthy tones. A very smooth whisky with a nice texture and excellent mouth feel.

Flóki Icelandic Single Malt Whisky Sheep Dung Smoked

92 points

An exciting whisky in a good way. Sweet and smoky aromas with an intense nose. Lovely tones and cinnamon flavors. It did not taste as expected. It tasted better and seemed to benefit from age.

Massimo’s Offerta Fantastica! Franceschetta58 in Modena

Story and photos by Christopher J Davies Additional

photographs from the Francescana Group

Massimo Bottura is one of the world’s most famous and talented chefs. He has been featured on the popular Netflix Chef’s Table documentary series. He is also a featured culinary instructor on Master Class.

Bottura is one of the biggest proponents of the Slow Food movement and is credited with helping the Parmesan industry save damaged wheels of cheese caused by an earthquake. He is based in his hometown of Modena and is at the helm of his flagship, three-Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. The restaurant was voted “The World’s Best Restaurant” in 2016 and 2018 by 50Best. Osteria Francescana has twelve tables and is quasi-booked seven months in advance. Starting August 1, 2023, the restaurant will have new bookings available for reservations beginning in February 2024!

We found culinary bliss at his second, less expensive restaurant Franceschetta58 in Modena. We were staying in Bologna near dear friends and could book an online reservation with three weeks’ notice. Modena is home to Italy’s famed Balsamic vinegar and is ground zero for Italian sports cars, Ferrari, and Lamborghini. Modena is a quick 17-minute train ride from Bologna, and thanks to Chef Bottura, it is now an Italian culinary destination. When we arrived, I flagged down a taxi. The ride to Franceschetta58 was less than ten minutes.

The restaurant was bright with gray walls, modern decorations, ornamental plates mounted on the walls, artwork, and a stylish bar. The wall also had inspirational quotes of encouragement to cheer up people who endured pain during the Covid lockdowns; “The Struggles We Endure Today Will Be The “Good Old Days” We Laugh About Tomorrow.”

The staff was courteous and very professional. Both Darcy and I ordered Negroni’s to start.

I ordered the I Love Modena Seven Course Menu for 74 € with seven wines paired with for 40 €.

I Love Modena Menu

• Grilled Cuttlefish

• Sturgeon with vegetables and meat jus

• Spring Fusilli

• Radicchio, beetroot, shallot, and hibiscus

• Guinea fowl liver pate, red onion marmalade, walnuts

• Mora Romagnola pork ribs, onion and Grasparossa wine reduction, lavender, and rosemary sauce

• Bitter cocoa tartlet, Jerusalem artichoke, walnuts, and mulled wine sauce

The wine pairings were local wines from lesser-known, small producers in the Emilia Romagna region. The first wine poured was the Modenaproduced Cantina Della Volta Dossagio Zero, a sparkling wine that was a delicious and bright blend of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir.

One favorite red was Noelia Ricci 2020 Il Sangiovese Predappio, Emilia Romagna Italy. This wine is imported into the US and sells for around $23. An exciting wine historical fact is that the origins of Sangiovese grapes trace back to Emilia Romagna before they were widely planted in Tuscany. Darcy ordered off the a la carte menu. Our waiter offered to pair wines with each dish.

Menu à la carte

• Cheese Selection 16 €

(Aged Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino, and Goat Cheese)

• Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms (stuffed with ricotta) w/Zucchini discs

• Tortellini by Tortellante with Parmigiano Reggiano sauce 18 €

(Tiny handmade Tortellini with a delicate sauce. These Tortellini are the first to have a D.O. certification!)

Grouper with fish royale sauce 25 €

(This traditional Thai sauce includes naturally fermented anchovies and salt)

• Emilia Burger by Massimo Bottura 14 €

(A fancy slider presented in a special boxed presentation). It consists of Chianina beef and cotechino pork sausage, layered with parmesan and a green sauce made of parsley, anchovies, capers, and mayonnaise with balsamic glaze.

• Citrus tartlet, hazelnut, salted butterscotch sauce 9 €

An elegant dessert that was a level above a simple flan.

Our entire lunch experience took three hours. The staff provided impeccable service. The food was beyond what we expected. The flavors were astounding. The local wine pairings were a fantastic representation showing that Emilia Romagna is worth a wine tour in the future.

Considering all the great dishes and wine pairings, Franceschetta58 was an excellent value.

Our entire bill with gratuity was 296 €.

Our only disappointment was that Chef Bottura was out of the country, traveling to speak at a conference in Asia. It would have been a great honor to meet him in person.

Highly Recommended (*****)

Franceschetta58

Via Vignolese, 58, 41124 Modena MO, Italy https://franceschetta.it/

Celebrate Harvest at Aranda de Duero’s Grape Festival

Story and photos by Christopher J Davies

We witnessed a spectacular celebration of the grape in this city of 33,000 inhabitants.

It seemed highly crowded as this was the first time in two years that people could gather in public, post-COVID lockdowns. From families with young children to seniors and everyone in between, people flooded the streets, bars, and restaurants.

There are more than three hundred wineries in Ribera del Duero, so it is fair to estimate that many townspeople work in the wine industry.

The gothic La Iglesia de Santa María la Real church was the perfect backdrop for traveling bands and the strange, child-terrifying marching “gigantes y cabezudos,” professional costumed giants. The younger crowd was dressed in costumes and drinking beers in the streets.

Restauranters expressed concern that pickpocketers were out and about, taking advantage of unassuming tourists. We took their advice, hid our wallets from sight, and held tight to our cameras.

It was a wonderful day celebrating the bounties of the harvest with an amiable group of locals.

Photo caption for musicians:

Members of the local marching band “Los Sobrinos de la Tía Damiana,” which translates to “Aunt Damiana’s Nephews.”

o empra n i l l o empran i l l

EXPECTATIONS o o o, o o o o o o, o o o o o

Tempranillo Bold and Full Bodied!

By Elizabeth Woessner, Grape Expectations Columnist

Tempranillo has more aliases than any criminal in history, being known by a long, varied list of monikers around the world. (I stopped counting at 62 total aliases, but I am sure there are more.) Spain boasts the highest number of Tempranillo aliases anywhere, with Portugal coming in second. Tempranillo is inextricably associated with Spain, where it accounts for 88% of all red grape varieties grown and is the fourth most planted red variety in the world. Integral to the great wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo has grown in popularity worldwide, adapting nicely to local terroir and creating wines that are true to the region in which they grow. Unfortunately, confusion caused by the grape’s many names may have prevented it from receiving its due recognition. Furthermore, Tempranillo being used primarily in blends, with its name rarely on the label, has likely also contributed to its limited recognition.

Although Tempranillo is rarely used to create a single varietal wine, it is usually the primary player in a blend, contributing flavors of red fruit, spice, and leather. The name Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word “temprano,” meaning “little early one,” probably referring to the early ripening of this grape. Because it ripens early and has a short growing season, it can thrive in a variety of climates. In cooler areas, it can succeed if there is enough sun to ripen the fruit entirely, producing a bright, easy-drinking wine with more red fruit characteristics. The Tempranillo grape thrives

in areas with large diurnal temperature swings, where warm, sunny days ripen the fruit, and cool nights help maintain its acidity. The wines produced in these climates take on darker fruit aromas, such as those of blackberry and plum, and have very muscular tannins.

The Tempranillo grape is black, with dark-colored skins, medium acidity, and moderate to high tannins. When young, Tempranillo produces fresh juicy wines with flavors of strawberry and cherry. As the wine ages, it creates wines with aromas and flavors of dark fruits, such as blackberry and fig, and develops interesting flavors of tobacco, leather, cedar, and vanilla flavors from its time aging in oak barrels. It is certainly worth exploring the many areas where this delightful grape is grown to discover how climate, soil, blending, and wine-making techniques can transform this grape into a myriad of captivating aromas and flavors. Tempranillo is King in Spain and is grown in almost every wine region in northern and western Spain. The most famous wine region for Tempranillo is Rioja, where it is blended with Garnacha, Mazuela, Graciano, and sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wines exhibit smokey, savory characteristics. Within Spain’s Castilla y Leon wine region, both Ribera del Duero and Toro produce exciting Tempranillos. Though still often blends, both areas now produce world-class single-varietal Tempranillo wines. The frigid winters and short hot summers in Ribera del Duero produce elegant wines

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

A Wine by any other name...

A few Tempranillo Aliases

Abillo Negro

Aldepenas

Aragon

Aragonez

Arinto Tinto

Cencibel

Chinchillana

Cupani

De Por Aca

Escobera

Garnacho Fono

Grenache de Logrono

Jacibiera, Juan Garcia

Negra de Mesa

Ojo de Liebre

Pinuela, Sensibel

Tinta Aragones

Tinta Corrient

Tinta de Madrid

Tinta de Santiago

Tinta de Toro

Tinta do Inacio

Tinta do Pais

Tinta Fina

Tinta Roriz

Tinto Aragon

Tinto Fino

Ull de Llebre

Valdepenas

Verdiell

Vid de Aranda

with a deep dark hue and robust but integrated tannins. In Toro, along the Duero River, to the west of Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo is planted at high altitude to combat the region’s harsh heat and results in a rustic, intense, and concentrated wine. Down south in the region’s of La Mancha and Valdepenes, where the grape is known as Cencibel, it produces both single varietal and blends with Spanish and international grape varieties.

Like all red wines in Spain, those made from Tempranillo must meet the minimum aging requirements defined by Spanish law. While these laws should help you choose which wines to buy, please note that many producers exceed these requirements. Also noteworthy is that Gran Riserva wines are only produced in exceptional years.

AGING REQUIREMENTS FOR SPANISH REDS

Joven - Young, fresh wines, with no aging requirement

Crianza - 24 months total aging, with 6 months in barrel

Riserva - 36 months total aging, with 12 months in barrel

Gran Riserva - 60 months total aging, with 18 months in barrel

In Portugal, just west of Spain, Tempranillo is known by two different names, depending on the part of the country in which it’s produced. Tempranillo is called Tinto Roriz in the Douro and Dao regions, and is called Aragonez in Alentejo, in the south. In the Douro region, Tempranillo, under the alias of Tinto Roriz, is one of the five primary grapes used in the blend for most Port production. However, it is now also used to produce many delightful red still wines. The grapes are planted at altitude along the Douro River, protecting the wine’s vital acidity, and the hot temperature of the region helps create the fruit’s structure. By contrast, the cold, wet winters of the Dao region, combined with significant diurnal temperature swings, produce Tinto Roriz wines that display delicate red fruit aromas, soft tannins, and high acidity.

Tempranillo came to the United States in the late 19th Century and was called Valdepenas. It was first planted in California’s Central Coast region, but in the early 1990s, interest in the variety grew in areas better suited to Tempranillo’s ripening needs such as California, Oregon, and Washington State. By 1998, southern Oregon’s Abecela Winery won first place in the San Francisco International Wine Competition, with a single varietal Tempranillo. From that point on, the popularity of domestic Tempranillo has continued to grow amongst winemakers and consumers alike.

Similarly, in Australia, Tempranillo is enjoying an ever-increasing popularity, where the grape is almost always aged in American Oak. Some of the best examples are found in Barossa Valley, King Valley, McLaren Vale, and Margaret River. Elsewhere in the world, the appreciation of Tempranillo is expanding, and its planting has begun in Argentina, Chile, and Mexico.

Tempranillo is a delightful wine for pairing with a multitude of dishes. Its savory characteristics, moderate acidity, and softer tannins make it a great pairing with mushroom or tomato-based dishes. Of course, it also pairs well with many classic Spanish foods, such as paella and Jamon de Iberico. Bolder, more developed Tempranillo can handle stronger, meatier dishes, such as rack of lamb, porterhouse steak, and other grilled meats. James Beard Award-Winning Chef/ Owner of Denver’s Rioja restaurant, Jennifer Jasinski, certainly knows her way around Rioja’s famed red grape. She likes pairing Tempranillo with the restaurant’s Potato and Cheese Pansoti, Roasted Acorn Squash, and Pancetta vinaigrette. Jen says, “The earthiness of the squash works great with medium-bodied reds. Pancetta vinaigrette and red wine gastrique both play well with the wonderful Spanish Tempranillos.” [Recipe and photo attached]

You may have enjoyed a glass of Tempranillo without even knowing you are drinking it. But if you have ever had a Spanish or Portuguese red wine, the odds are good that it contained Tempranillo. With its robust and complex savory flavors, versatility, and age-ability, it is no wonder this grape continues to grow in popularity worldwide. Buy some for your collection or bring it to your next dinner party. Tempranillo is sure to capture attention and make any occasion better, no matter its moniker or alias.

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI, ROASTED ACORN SQUASH,

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE serves 4

By Chef Jennifer Jasinski

Pansoti is Italian for “pot bellied” and refers to the shape of the pasta. It is also a classic stuffed pasta and usually contains potato and cheese. This recipe is perfect for autumn. When the weather is starting to get a bit cold and the acorn squash are in season, this dish comforts you while satisfying your appetite. The pansoti was an original menu item at Rioja, and each fall I still crave them! “Pansoti” was actually in the running to be the name of our restaurant before we decided on “Rioja.”

POTATO AND CHEESE FILLING

1 Idaho potato

4 ounces ricotta

2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese

2 1/2 ounces fresh mozzarella, diced

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 egg yolk

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI

Semolina pasta dough either purchased or made fresh Egg yolk wash (1 part water to 1 part egg yolk)

Semolina flour, to dust tray

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH

2 acorn squash

1/4-pound butter, melted

1/2 cup brown sugar

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

FIG PORT REDUCTION

2 cups port wine

1/2 cup chopped dried black mission figs

Photo Credit Rioja Restaurant

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE

1/2 cup pure olive oil

1 cup ground pancetta (cut into 1/4-inch dice)

1/4 cup diced shallots

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1/2 tablespoon chopped thyme

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

ASSEMBLY AND PLATING

3 chives, cut into 1-inch lengths, to garnish (store in ice water to preserve freshness)

POTATO AND CHEESE FILLING: (Preheat oven to 375 degrees.)

Wash the potato and bake in the 375-degree oven until fully cooked (about 1 hour).

When it is cool enough to handle but still hot, peel the skin. In a mixing bowl, mash the potato with a hand masher or ricer.

Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix well while the potato is still warm. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve in the refrigerator until ready to use.

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI:

When you are ready to prepare the pasta, unwrap your dough and slice off a piece of the dough ball, rewrapping the unused dough until you are ready to sheet it. Feed the dough through your pasta machine, starting at the widest setting. (A pasta-rolling device such as the tabletop Gemini or the roller attachment for a stand mixer is ideal for sheeting the pasta.) Continue to feed it through the machine, gradually reducing the thickness setting until the dough is 1/16 inch thick. Your sheet should be approximately 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. This is a standard size that works well for all the recipes. Lay the sheeted dough onto a lightly semolina-floured work surface. Continue sheeting the dough. You will need 6 sheets for 4 servings finished pasta. As you work, keep each sheet covered with a dry towel to prevent the dough from drying.

Have a 2 1/2- to 3-inch ring cutter handy. On a lightly semolina-floured work surface, place a sheet of fresh pasta. Starting 1 inch in from one end of the pasta, place 2 tablespoons of the potato and cheese filling onto the center of the sheet; repeat, leaving at least 1 1/2 inches of space between each mound of filling for a total of 3 dollops. Brush egg wash around the filling and fold from the bottom half of the pasta over the mounds (allowing the fold to butt up against the filling); as you fold, be sure to push out the air and tighten the dough down around the filling. Place the ring cutter over each dough-covered mound so that it resembles a mezzaluna (half-moon) and press out the pansoti. (To make the right shape, the cutter is only hitting half the dough.)

Pinch the edges of the pansoti to be sure they are sealed well.

Stand each pansoti on its filling side and flatten it slightly to resemble a pot sticker. Repeat until all pansoti are shaped. (You will need 16 pansoti for 4 servings.)

Reserve the finished pansoti on a sheet tray lightly dusted with semolina flour (to prevent sticking). Cover and refrigerate the pansoti until you are ready to cook them.

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH:

(Preheat oven to 350 degrees.)

Peel the squash along their ridges. (You will not be able to peel the whole

squash, but that is OK. It will look like you have peeled stripes into the squash.) Cut each squash across its equator with a serrated knife and remove the seeds. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices to make large rings. Place them in a large mixing bowl.

Drizzle the melted butter over the squash rings. Add the brown sugar, salt and pepper to the bowl and toss until the squash rings are well coated.

Lay the squash directly onto parchment-lined sheet trays and roast in the 350-degree oven until they are tender but not mushy (12-14 minutes, depending on size). (The squash should still have some firmness because they will rest at room temperature and be warmed again later. Look for the slices to change from being opaque to a little more translucent as they cook.)

FIG PORT REDUCTION:

In a small saucepan, bring the wine and figs to a boil over high heat and begin reducing the liquid. As the reduction proceeds, the bubbles that form around the sides of the pot will become larger and larger. These bubbles can serve as a visual clue as to the “room temperature” viscosity of the finished reduction. When the largest of these bubbles is the size of a nickel, remove the pan from the heat, strain the sauce and allow it to cool to room temperature.

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE:

In a wide sauté pan over high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the pancetta and render until it is crispy.

Once the pancetta is crispy, add the shallots and garlic; turn off the heat. Stir in the thyme, sherry vinegar and remaining olive oil. Season lightly to taste with salt and pepper, being careful not to add too much salt; the pancetta will season this sauce most of the way.

ASSEMBLY AND PLATING:

To successfully prepare this dish, all the ingredients must be prepared ahead of time, as the final cooking and plating will only take minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a 1-2 gallon pot large enough to accommodate all of the potato and cheese pansoti, bring salted water to a boil. (If your pot is not large enough, plan on cooking the pansoti in batches to avoid overcrowding them.)

Rewarm the roasted acorn squash in the 350-degree oven.

Drop the pansoti into the boiling water. Test them for doneness by pinching the edges to see if the pasta is tender (3-4 minutes). (The best way to test doneness is to cook an extra pansoti and taste it. The pasta should be firm but cooked through.)

As the pasta cooks, place 3 warm squash rings around each plate. Remove the pansoti from the pot, skimming them from the water. Place 4-5 pansoti on each plate, on top of the squash.

Spoon the warm pancetta vinaigrette over the pansoti. Drizzle the fig port reduction on the pansoti and around the plate. Garnish each pansoti with a cross of 2 chive batons.

CHEF’S NOTES: You can make the fig port reduction in advance. You can make the pansoti filling and pasta dough a day ahead.

Jennifer Jasinski was born and raised in Santa Barbara, California, until she decided to attend The Culinary Institute of America at its Hyde Park, New York campus. She worked first in kitchens in New York City, before moving to Los Angeles, California, where she worked under Wolfgang Puck. In 2000, she moved to Denver, Colorado, where she became head chef at the Panzano restaurant within Hotel Monaco. She stayed for five years, until together with Beth Gruitch, she opened her own restaurant, Rioja, within the same city. For her work at the restaurant, she won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Southwest Chef in 2013.

She has since opened several further restaurants in Denver including Euclid Hall, Bistro Vendome and Stoic & Genuine.

AMA Waterways

River Cruises For Wine Lovers

7- Night Cruise “Colors of Provence”

From romantic cities to foodie havens and artistic epicenters, this itinerary enlivens all your senses. Embark in Lyon, France’s culinary capital, and enjoy an evening illumination cruise. Savor the beauty of legendary vineyards and imbibe in local vintages like Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône. You can even become an expert in all things culinary: go in search of the highly prized “Black Diamond” truffles; learn how to pair chocolate with wine; and discover how olives turn into the Mediterranean’s nectar, olive oil. Trace the steps of famous artists in Arles and Carriéres de Lumiéres before your return flight home.

More Info:

https://www.amawaterways.com/destination/europe-river-cruises/2022/colors-of-provence

Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Resort

Mendoza, Argentina

Situated on 320 hectares of fertile land in the heart of the Uco Valley, the architecture seems to emerge from the encircling geography, as it is inspired by the topography and exceptional natural resources of the Uco Valley, in Argentina’s Mendoza province.

At the soul of our inviting common areas are the Wine Bar & Lounge, award-winning restaurant, game room, lush living room complete with wood-fire chimney, and outdoor dining spaces with open views of the mountains and vineyards. At the foundation of the resort, the underground wine cellar stores an impressive selection of the best wines in the region.

Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Resort is a project conceived and created by the world-renowned architecture firm Alberto Tonconogy & Associates.

More Info

https://www.casadeuco.com/en/wine-resort-en/

Castello Banfi Wine Resort

Montalcino,

Tuscany, Italy

Our family is passionately dedicated to the Pursuit of Excellence in making the prestigious wines of Montalcino as well as our hospitality offerings at Castello Banfi, the historic fortress that crowns our estate, an elegant setting for vacations, celebrations, special events or a day visit.

Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is ideal for enjoying the comfortable tranquility of the Tuscan countryside and helping to intensely discover a more authentic Tuscany.

More Info

https://www.castellobanfiwineresort.it/en/castello-banfi-il-borgo

John Kapon, Acker Auctions

John Kapon is a singular figure in the world of fine wine as the scion behind the illustrious Acker Wine Store & Auction. Down-to-earth and fun-loving, Kapon is an allAmerican boy at heart. He is devoted to his family and business, but the lure to dip into his creative side entices his attention.

Managing the machinations of a global wine retail and auction empire with deft perception into the consumer’s mind came quickly to Kapon after joining his family in the wine business in the 1990s. The original Merrall & Condit Wines store opened its doors as a grocery and package delivery service in 1820 and was one of the first stores in the United States to sell the notorious “Champagne Charlie” Heidsieck Champagne along with Portuguese Madeira and Port, Spanish Sherry, and French Claret.

John Kapon’s grandfather joined the Merrall & Condit team in the 1950s and soon took the reins of the business, christening it Acker, Merrall & Condit. John Kapon grew up immersed in a world that included the greatest wines and winemakers in the world. Though he dabbled in the family business, his muse was music. He flexed his musical understanding as a New York City hip-hop producer. At the tender age of 22 (or 23), his lineup had a giant entourage along with a Columbia record deal, but instinctively he turned it all down. Leaving that record deal and posse behind, Kapon joined his family wine shop.

He found working in his family wine store a welcome respite from the tumultuous music scene. He embraced wine and the in-store tastings gave him a front-row view into the grapes, expressions, and regions of the world’s best wines. Kapon quickly fell in love with wine, channeled his natural creativity into crafting adventurous, often bawdy tasting notes and informative wine-centric articles, and authored The Compendium: Tasting the World’s Finest Wines Vol. One.

In between musings, Kapon founded the Acker auction house in 1998 and launched an auction in Hong Kong in 2008. Twenty-four years later, under John Kapon’s leadership, Acker has become one of the planet’s most influential wine retail and boutique wine auction houses.

After nearly five decades of navigating the bustling streets of New York City, Kapon and his family enjoy the serenity found on the sun-soaked beaches of Puerto Rico. Speaking today by telephone from the Hamptons, John shared his philosophy on a life well lived and his insights into the tremendous success of his family’s business.

You can read it in its entirety here: https://winecountryinternational.com/

Interview by Simone FM Spinner

Photos by Christopher J Davies

Columnist Simone FM Spinner conducted a candid telephone interview with John Kapon.

Story and Photos by Christopher J Davies

In April this year, we decided to visit Scotland to do some R&D on Single Malt Scotch, touring and tasting at several world-class distilleries. We plan to produce the first-ever Global Whisky Challenge in Glasgow in April 2024, so the timing of this adventure was ideal.

Searching options, we found Icelandair had the shortest travel times from Denver to Glasgow. Iceland has been on my bucket list for many years. I have been mesmerized by the photographs of Iceland’s spectacular nature and incredible landscapes, so planning a three-night stop-over in Iceland for our way back from Scotland made sense.

Darcy and I have a love-hate relationship with Iceland’s volcano Eyjafjallajökull, which disrupted international air travel from Europe to the United States in 2010. No one felt sorry for us, as we were stuck for an extra week in Italy, drinking wine and consuming delicious cuisine. That week we were famously reporting back from Italy on CNN, CNN.COM, and NBC with updates on the severe impact on international travelers. A BBC documentary is now in the works, so stay tuned.

Traveling on Icelandair’s Saga Business Class was indeed a treat. Although the seats do not lay flat, they are wide and very comfortable, and the staff is amiable and attentive. The food was delicious, and the drink menu had a great selection of gins from Iceland and French and Spanish wines. The flight from Denver to Iceland was under seven hours. Fortunately, we did not need to check through customs in between flights. Our wait time was 1.5 hours.

DESTINATIONS

After eight glorious days in Scotland, we took the two-hour flight from Glasgow to Reykjavik Keflavik International Airport (REK) for our 72-hour Icelandic adventure.

My research found an excellent new hotel less than ten minutes from the airport. The Hotel Berg ($319) is a newly built, modern, 4-star boutique hotel with 36 rooms and the acclaimed restaurant Fiskbarinn. The hotel is located on the small, picturesque Keflavik Marina and boasts a fantastic heated outdoor pool on the second floor. Our room was spacious and well-appointed, with a bedroom, a modern bathroom, and a large living room with a sliding glass door out to a deck overlooking the marina.

Cocktails and wine are expensive in Iceland as it is an island, and most beverages are imported.

The Icelandic tax on alcohol is a whopping 24%. We headed to the local grocery store, where we learned that all alcoholic beverages are sold through governmentrun VINBUDIN stores. There are eighteen of these stores located throughout Iceland, and we managed to find one nearby.

The hotel restaurant Fiskbarinn specialized in fish but also offered beef and Icelandic lamb (highly promoted with signage at restaurants nationwide). The wine list featured excellent Spanish wines, including a delightful Verdejo from Rueda.

The following morning, I woke up at 6:00 a.m. and was surprised to see how bright it already was outside. In April, it begins to get light at 4:00 a.m. in Iceland. I looked out towards the small village and could see a white church in the distance that was brightly illuminated, with a backlit clock in the center.

So, I left on foot with my Canon 5D with a 24-70mm zoom lens and Manfrotto tripod and walked around the marina in front of Hotel Berg. I passed several fishing boats that were being painted and repaired. Iceland is a volcanic island, and many of its walking paths are made of lava gravel.

I came across a large white wooden fishing boat sitting on the rocks at the shoreline. I learned that this was the “Baldur,” which arrived in Keflavík in March 1961 and was retired after 42 years of service. The town maintains the boat with a fresh coat of paint every year.

DESTINATIONS

I turned and walked several blocks through a residential neighborhood to the illuminated white church. Keflavíkurkirkja, built in 1915 and renovated in 2012, is the largest church in the region, with a nave that seats 250 people.

DESTINATIONS

As I returned to the ocean, I discovered The Seaman’s Monument. Erected in 1978, this fantastic artwork consists of a giant metal anchor and compass atop a circular stone pedestal.

DESTINATIONS

After finishing a full breakfast at the Hotel Berg, we loaded up our jeep and navigated thirty minutes away to the world-famous Blue Lagoon. We traveled on the looping road along Iceland’s coast, then drove inland following the posted signs. The marketing message claims that Blue Lagoon Water offers a beneficial effect of the ‘geothermal gift.’ The water is rich in microalgae, silica, and minerals; Blue Lagoon Water is a phenomenal natural resource. The origin of the water is a blend of fresh and seawater that emerges through volcanic aquifers more than 2,000 meters below.

It is essential to make any ticket purchases and meal reservations at the Blue Lagoon well in advance. We purchased the premium package, which includes entrance to Blue Lagoon, towel, locker, silica face mask, one beverage of choice, bathrobe, a second face mask, and sparkling wine at Lava Restaurant ($81 per person).

Upon check-in, guests receive a small digital fob with a flex wristband that locks and unlocks individual lockers and can be used to pay for incremental purchases. Everyone must shower before entering the Blue Lagoon. The water was warm, and I felt somewhat buoyant, treading through the waist-height blueish water. Darcy and I moved to the bar located in the lagoon to order our free drinks, Sauvignon Blancs, in plastic cups.

We spent about two hours visiting the various corners of the lagoon. Darcy tried the different masks by spreading them (white, gray, and black) on her face. After showering and getting dressed, we headed to the upscale, recently awarded one Michelin Star Lava Restaurant, which boasts floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lagoon.

As soon as we sat down, a sommelier visited our table, greeting us with glasses of sparkling wine.

Lava Restaurant Lunch Starters

Fresh bread selection

Langoustine Soup

Garlic marinated Langoustine, dulse. A delicious soup with a good amount of Langoustine meat.

Fried Cod Balls (Special)

With pickled red onions and fresh dill sauce. Fluffy and delicious!

Entrée

Fried Link Fish, Which is related to cod but more delicate. (Fish of the day) Apples, small potatoes, hollandaise, fennel. An exquisite and light fish with thin breading. The hollandaise and fennel were terrific.

Wine

Cote des Roses by Gerard Bertrand

This Pinot Noir rose was a great pairing with our lunch dishes.

Dessert

“Ástarpungar” and Caramel

Mango chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream, salted caramel

We thoroughly loved our lunch at Lava Restaurant. The cuisine and professional service were extraordinary. Our bill with gratuity was the equivalent of $250.

Blue Lagoon Iceland

https://www.bluelagoon.com/

After lunch, we drove two hours (146km) northeast through national parks and the enormous Veiōlunder Lake to the Great Geysir. We arrived at the modern Hotel Geysir in Bláskógabyggd and checked into our deluxe room with a bathtub and French balcony ($352 US, including breakfast.) The hotel is located across the street from the Geysir’s geothermal area. Darcy and I were still full from lunch at Lava Restaurant, but we enjoyed snacks and wine at the hotel’s Geysir Restaurant.

• Korean Style Chicken Wings

• Beef Carpaccio with basil oil, pine nuts, Parmesan, and arugula grown on a local farm.

We both enjoyed glasses of Gassier Coatex Provence Rose 2021 ($11.50)

The following morning, I again awoke at 6:00 am and gathered my cameras and tripod. I aimed to capture photos of the geyser and geothermal pools with the golden morning light without many tourists. The Great Geysir delivered dearly, and I had no company until 8:00 am after capturing more than 100 photos.

After enjoying a proper European breakfast at the Hotel Geysir with Darcy, we loaded up the jeep for our drive to Iceland’s Capital, Reykjavik.

https://hotelgeysir.is/

We drove 1.5 hours to downtown Reykjavik. We had reservations at the modern 101 Hotel, part of Design Hotels ™, a Marriott boutique hotel. We booked a king room with a city view ($449) using my Marriott Bonvoy points. The hotel is centrally located blocks away from the harbor and the famous Hallgrimskirkja (the church of Hallgrimur), a Lutheran Church that is 74 meters tall and resembles a gigantic space shuttle standing upright.

We walked around the block from our hotel to Kastrup Restaurant, a Nordic-style bistro, for lunch. We enjoyed Schnitzel ($44) and Steak Frites ($71). Kastrup also serves as the kitchen for the 101 Hotel. During our visit strolling around the city, we learned that this was a national holiday celebrating the start of summer in Iceland. Unfortunately, many stores, including the government-run liquor stores, were closed.

The city had a great vibe. There was tons of graffiti and art painted on the sides of buildings, including a pride rainbow-painted street pointing towards the church of Hallgrimur.

The hotel had many artworks on the walls showcased in its elegant bar. However, the high cost of wine took a lot of work to fathom. Ordering Rose by the Glass ($25) was about 40% less expensive than buying an entire bottle of wine ($140).

The next day, we had a simple breakfast in the hotel bar before doing some last-minute shopping. The drive from our hotel to the airport took less than half an hour. After returning to our rental car, we boarded a shuttle bus to the airport. Check-in at the Saga Counter was quick and efficient. After treading through customs and the duty-free shops, we found the Saga Business Class Lounge. It was spacious and offered a great selection of hot and cold foods, buffet style. There was a self-serve bar with a great beer, wine, and spirits selection.

Icelandair was founded in 1937 and today services 42 gateways on both sides of the Atlantic, with all flights connecting through their hub at Reykjavik International Airport. Recent gateways include Barcelona, Crete, and the Faroe Islands. They are updating their fleet by adding Boeing 737 Max aircraft. We want to fly on Icelandair Saga Business class soon. They offer excellent connecting flights to Paris, Rome, London, Glasgow, and Nordic cities.

The flight attendants were friendly and accommodating on our 7-hour flight back to Denver. As a special bonus, we arrived in Denver 25 minutes early!

Icelandair:

https://www.icelandair.com/

I recommend that people travel to Iceland to take in all it offers.

Tip: Visit in winter for substantially lower rates and 3-night all-inclusive packages!

Darcy and I plan to return in 2024 to visit the volcano, photograph puffins, and experience the Northern lights.

Feature : Ribera del Duero

RIBERA DEL DUERO

We finally decided to visit a prominent red wine region in Spain. It would be easy to see Rioja, Spain’s star-powered equivalent of “Napa.” But that is the place every wine writer visits first.

We were looking for a region that was up-and-coming and unique. We heard wine critics refer to Ribera del Duero as the “Burgundy of Spain”. After conducting our research, we found that RDD had a link to Burgundy. The region was first established by Benedictine Monks who came to the area in the twelfth century from Cluny, a town in the Burgundy region of France. They brought their knowledge of winemaking, and some monasteries are still producing wine in the area.

The Ribera del Duero D.O.P (Denominación de Origen Protegida) was established in 1982, making it a youthful region. The 2022 harvest was the 40th for the D.O. and this year has been filled with celebrations and events commemorating this milestone.

Types of Grapes Grown in Ribera del Duero

• Tinto Fino (a local variety of Tempranillo): Red & Rosé wines

• Grenacha: Red & Rosé wines Albillo: White wines

Ribera del Duero Wine Classifications

• Crianza: Aged for at least one year in oak barrels.

• Reserva: Aged at least one year in oak barrels and an additional two or more in bottles.

• Gran Reserva: Aged at least two years in oak barrels and three or more years in bottles.

Unique Terroir

• Extreme Climate: Dry summers, long, harsh winters (-4 to 107 degrees Fahrenheit)

Soil types: Clay, limestone, and stones

• Altitude: Between 720 to 1,100 meters (2,360 to 3,600 feet) above sea level.

Ribera del Duero Quick Facts

• Total Hectares of Grape Vines Planted: 26,122.70 (64,548 acres)

• Number of wineries in the region: 311 Number of bottles produced by region in 2022: 100,725,138

• Breakdown of wine types produced: 98.4% reds / 1.4% rosés / 0.2% whites

• Main grape: Tempranillo = 97% of harvested grapes

Story and photos by Christopher J Davies

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Tinto Pesquera

Familia Fernández Rivera has a long history of producing fine-quality wines in the region..

Founders Alejandro Fernández and Esperanza Rivera, together with their family, were one of the founding wine producers in the region. Today their company has four wineries and a hotel in Spain. The founders’ granddaughters now lead the company.

When we visited in the morning, the winery received deliveries of harvested Tempranillo grapes. The facility was filled with beautiful aromas of fermenting grapes. I was excited about taking photos of the grape sorting while trying to avoid getting hit by the moving forklifts transporting baskets of grapes

We were led upstairs to a glass-walled conference room where the tasting room staff presented us with a tasting. Director Lucia Fernández Rivera, who we met previously at the AF Pesquera Hotel, stopped by to say hello.

Wines Tasted:

Tinto Pesquera Crianza 2019 ****1/2 $33.99

Dark purple/ruby color. It is aged for twelve months in American Oak barrels. Aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, and coffee. Flavors of blueberry and vanilla with solid tannins. One million, two hundred thousand bottles were made.

MXI Selección de Barricas 2019 ***** $34.00

100% Tempranillo sourced from the “El Monte Alto de Pesquera” high altitude vineyards at 900 meters/ 2,952 feet and aged for 14 months in a unique selection of medium char oak barrels. Dark ruby color. Aromas of red berries and currant. Flavors of fleshy, fresh baked fruit, cherries, and vanilla.

Tinto Pesquera Reserva 2018 ****1/2 $64.99

Aged for 18 months in 225-liter American Oak Barrels, then aged in the bottles for another year. Dark burgundy color. Aromas of blackberry and dark fruit. Flavors of blackberries and lush dark fruit. A well-balanced wine with integrated fruit.

Condado De Haza Crianza 2019 ***** $25.00

100% Tempranillo sourced from estate vineyards at 800 meters/ 2,624 feet. The average age of vines is 30 years. Aged for 14 months in American Oak barrels and aged in bottles. Black cherry color. Aromas of ripe berries and coffee. Flavors of lush dark fruit, licorice, and vanilla bean. Long pleasant finish.

Condado De Haza Alenza Gran Reserva 2009 ****1/2 $100

100% Tempranillo sourced from high-altitude vineyards at 800 meters/ 2,624 feet. Aged for 24 months in American Oak Barrels, fermented with stems. Dark ruby color. Aromas of dark berries, menthol, and balsamic. An intriguing mouth of dark fruit, licorice, balsamic, and soy.

Bodegas Tinto Pesquera

https://familiafernandezrivera.com/en/inicio-2/

Bodegas Dehesa De Los Canonigos

This historic property dates to the mid-nineteenth century when it was a cathedral of Valladolid comprising 22

The property changed hands several times over the years. Basque businessman Toribio de Lecanda y Campo bought the farm in 1842.

After losing his wife in 1859, Toribio transferred the property to his son Teodosio Lecanda Chaves, a renowned architect. Teodosio built his house in the image of a Basque farmhouse in honor of his land, which today is preserved as a family home.

The Cid Family has owned the property since 1931. Today the wine estate is run by Belén and Iván Sanz Cid, two of the four children of Luis and María Luz. Belén is an oenologist, and Iván is the company’s General Manager and oversees the vineyards.

We visited the estate and toured the wine cellars with a collection of wine barrels that celebrities and sports icons have signed. The property is expansive and hosts numerous business functions and weddings.

We met with Belén and Iván Sanz Cid and tasted several wines in their beautiful cellar

Wines Tasted:

Dehesa De Los Canonigos 15 meses 2019 ****1/2 $40

Blend of 88% Organic Tempranillo, 12% Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 15 months in American Oak. Dark ruby color. Aromas of ripe berries and chocolate. Flavors of black fruit, smokey tobacco, and leather. One hundred and sixty-five thousand bottles have been produced.

Dehesa De Los Canonigos Solideo 2017 ***** $60

Made from 85% Tempranillo, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Albillo. Aged for twenty months in American Oak and four months in French oak barrels. Grapes were sourced from 80-year-old estate vineyards in gravel soil and bush vines and made during a problematic hail-filled year. Garnet color. Aromas of black fruit, plums, and black cherries. Flavors of black fruit, plums, and figs. This wine has elegant tannins and balance. Fifteen thousand bottles were made.

Dehesa De Los Canonigos Gran Reserva 2010 Luis Sanz Busto ****1/2 $200

Made from 97% Tempranillo, 3% Albillo. Thirty months in American Oak, ten months in French oak barrels. Dark burgundy/ opaque color. Aromas of tart cherries and blackberry. Flavors of dark spicy fruit, mint, menthol, and licorice. Two thousand, one hundred bottles were produced.

Bodegas Dehesa De Los Canonigos

https://www.dehesadeloscanonigos.com/en/

Recently picked Tempranillo fermenting, (R) Fernando and Miriam Valenti

Mélida Wines

This micro wine producer is laying down solid roots for the future of Ribera del Duero. They are in the small village of Mélida with a population of just 34 residents.

The company was founded by Miriam Valenti and her sister Silvia Herrera Redondo. Both sisters have degrees in enology from the University of Valladolid. The two sisters conceived the project with the help of their father, Javier. Meriam’s husband, Fernando Valenti, an Argentinian native with extensive wine industry experience, is also part of the team.

This unique project included renovating and rebuilding a decrepit building into a modern winery with a restaurant and lodging. They offer two different “houses” or rooms at affordable rates (220 E Weekend, 500 E whole week).

When we visited, we were impressed with how well everything was designed and produced in such a compact space. We were delighted to taste their wines on the second-level restaurant with Fernando and Miriam. Silvia is also a talented chef who prepared a delicious lunch.

The trio’s global experience working around the globe in Argentina, Bordeaux, and New Zealand has been instrumental in helping them produce a unique style of elegant wines in Ribera del Duero. This has put Melida wines on the radar of several prominent wine critics, including the UK-based Master of Wine, Tim Atkin.

We enjoyed Spanish canned sardines and anchovies, a quail salad with mango and caviar lentils, polenta, red pepper sauce, and roast lamb and chips during our visit. The desserts were decadent.

Wines Tasted:

Mélida Parpados 2019 ****1/2 $40

100% Tempranillo hand-picked from 25-yearold vines. Aged in used French oak barrels. Deep purple, opaque. Aromas of blueberry, stone fruit, menthol, and leather. Flavors of lush, spicy blueberry, and balsamic. Five thousand bottles were produced.

Mélida Eternata 2020 ***** $65 100% Tempranillo hand-picked from a whole cluster of 80-year-old vines. It is aged in used 225-liter French oak barrels (2nd & 3rd use). Deep purple color. Aromas of blueberry, plum, stone fruit, a eucalyptus. Full mouth, juicy flavors of red fruit, plum with a long finish. One thousand bottles were produced.

Mélida Dos Alas Rojas 2019 ****1/2 $75

100% Tempranillo clusters hand-picked from 25-yearold vines. It is fermented in used 500-liter French oak barrels, then aged in the same barrels for 24 months. Deep ruby color. Aromas of blueberry and stone fruit. Flavors of dark red fruit, blackberries, plums, balsamic, and soy. One thousand, two hundred bottles were produced.

Mélida Wines

https://melidawines.com/

Caviar lentils with mango and quail (Top). Almond pastry with cream.

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Comenge

Alvaro Comenge welcomed us to his family estate. The company was established by his father, Jaime in 1999. Their first vintage was 2021.

Today the vineyards are sustainable and organic. Some of the old vines were planted over one hundred years ago. As we strolled through the vineyard, it was easy to recognize that the vines were in excellent health.

We toured the winery and were shown special tanks where they experimented with native yeasts in collaboration with the local university. This attention to detail was reflected in the quality of their wines. The native yeast adds lactic acid to the wines.

Alvaro’s father, Jaime, joined us when we entered the tasting area. He told us that his grandfather had written a popular wine book entitled “The Vines and Wines from Spain.”

Wines Tasted:

Carmen by Comenge 2021 Rose ****1/2 $26.99

Clarita-style white/ red blend. 50% Albillo, 50% red varieties (Tempranillo, Garnacha y Valencia) This wine is a tribute to Alvaro’s mother, Carmen. Dark pink color. Aromas of wild blackberry and violet. Pleasant flavors of spicy fresh strawberry and violet

Comenge 2020 Albillo Mayor ***** $39.99

100% Albillo Mayor grapes sourced from a vineyard planted in 1921. It is aged for nine months in 225-liter French barrels. Straw gold color. Intense floral aromas. Flavors of sweet spices, almonds, and cinnamon. One thousand, five hundred bottles were made.

Comenge El Origen 2018 ****1/2 $29.99

100% Organic Tempranillo. Aged for 13 months in French oak barrels. Fermentation with select native yeast. Garnet color. Aromas of fruity red currant and balsamic. Flavors of fresh red fruit, vanilla, cinnamon, and clove. Seventy-eight thousand, nine hundred and twenty-four (750ml) and 650 magnum bottles were produced.

Don Miguel Comenge 2017 ***** $65.99

90% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Organic Grapes. It was aged for 22 months in new French Bordeaux oak barrels.

Black cherry/ opaque color. Aromas of black fruit, chocolate, and cassis. Flavors of bold baked blueberry pie. Thirteen thousand, three hundred and forty-five bottles were made.

Familia Comenge 2018 ***** $39.99

100% Organic Tempranillo. Sourced from vines that are 850-880 meters/ 2,887 feet above sea level. Aged 25 months in new and one-year-old French oak, developing a unique and delicious texture.

Black cherry color. Aromas of ripe red fruit, licorice, and caramel. Flavors of sweet tannins, vanilla, and caramel.

Bodegas Comenge

https://www.comenge.com/en/

The Comenge winery sits in one of the most beautiful locations in the Ribera del Duero region, between streams, vineyards, and castles

Bodegas Viña Mayor

This winery is in the so called “Golden Mile”, the most prestigious area of the Ribera del Duero region.

The winery has a great respect for the region and is a member of WfCP (Wineries for Climate Protection certification). WfCP is a certification scheme developed by the Spanish Wine Federation (Federación Española del Vino, or FEV) that defines the criteria that an environmentally sustainable winery should meet. Applus+ Certification, as an approved body, can grant this certification to the wineries that meet these criteria.

When we arrived at the winery the receptionist allowed us in but requested that we abide by the company’s COVID requirements and wear our masks. The winery was not yet reopened for visitors. We were led to a conference room that had been preset for our wine tasting.

Almudena Alberca, technical director, head winemaker, and Spain’s first female Master of Wine joined us to lead the tasting. We were respectful of the fact that this was harvest, the absolute busiest time of the year for all winemakers.

Feature : Ribera del Duero

WOMEN IN WINE: Almudena Alberca, MW

In 2018, Almudena became the first woman in Spain to achieve the Master of Wine title.

She achieved this great honor while working long hours as the head winemaker for the Bodegas Palacio 1894 Group, parent company of Viña Mayor winery. Her official title is the technical director of Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos.

Wines Tasted:

Bodegas Viña Mayor Roble 2020 **** $7

100% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino). Aged for 3 months in French and American Oak barrels. Dark ruby color. Aromas of blueberry and plums. Flavors of tart dark fruit. Seven hundred thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor Crianza 2019 ****1/2 $15

100% Tempranillo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aged in large 300-liter French oak barrels for 12 months. Aged for 6 months in the bottle. Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black fruit. Flavorful, fleshy with salt and oak. Two hundred fifty thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor Secreto 2018 ***** $17

100% Tempranillo, sourced from a 60-year vineyard at 900 meters/ 2,952 feet above sea level. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. Aged for 10 additional months in the bottle. Garnet color. Aromas of vibrant perfumed fruit with violets. Flavors of juicy, fleshy blueberry, plums with minerals. Forty thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor Secreto 2 RS 2016 ****1/2 $60

100% Tempranillo sourced from an 80-year-old vineyard in sandy limestone soil, with an altitude of 950 meters/ 3,116 feet. Aged in large 500-liter French oak barrels for 12 months. Aged another 18 months in the bottle. Light ruby color. Floral aromas with hints of forest floor and violets. Flavors of silky, elegant blueberry and violets. Five thousand bottles were produced..

Bodegas Viña Mayor Secreto 3 RB 2016 ****1/2 $35

100% Tempranillo sourced from an 80-year-old vineyard in sandy clay soil, with an altitude of 900 meters/ 2,952 feet. Aged in large 350 and 500-liter used French oak barrels for 12 months. Intense ruby color. Aromas of bright red and black fruit with hints of licorice. Flavors of fleshy, chewy red fruit. Excellent tannins and balance. Five thousand, three hundred bottles were produced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor Gran Reserva 2016 ***** $35

100% Tempranillo from 65-year-old, low-yield bush vines in Burgos. Aged for 24 months in high quality, French oak barrels from Bordeaux. Aged for another 36 months in bottles. Ruby color. Aromas of fresh fruit and cherries. Flavors of ripe red fruit with a long complex finish. One hundred and fifty thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor Reserva 2014 ****1/2 $19

100% Tempranillo sourced from 60-year-old vines with an altitude of 900 meters/ 2,952 feet. Aged in French and American oak for 15 months. Aged an additional 20 months in bottles. Ruby red color. Complex aromas of blueberry, and plum with white flowers. Silky, light flavors of watery fruit. This is a well-rounded wine. Four thousand bottles were produced.

Almudena is a delightful wine professional who is passionate about her wines. When we met, she told me that her brand was in the process of changing importers in the US. Her wines have a distinct style and are surprisingly super value-priced.

Bodegas Viña Mayor

https://www.vina-mayor.es/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Finca Villacreces

This historic 110-hectare property was first owned by Pedro de Villacreces a Franciscan friar in 1350. He settled on the property with a group of clergymen including San Pedro Regalado, the Patron Saint of Valladolid. He had a small vineyard on the property to make wine for his personal consumption and for nearby monasteries.

Today the property has 60 hectares of vineyards in Ribera del Duero’s “Golden Mile” planted with Tempranillo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon near the Duero River. The property has a dense forest of pine trees with the winery situated in the center.

Wines Tasted:

Finca Villacreces Artevino Pruno 2020 **** $12.00

90 % Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 12 in French oak barrels. Deep ruby color. Aromas of cherry and strawberry. Flavors of ripe and sour fruit with licorice. One hundred thousand bottles were produced.

Finca Villacreces Artevino 2018 ****1/2 $20.00

86 % Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot. Aged for 14 in French oak barrels (50% new, 50% used). Garnet deep purple color. Aromas of blueberry and mocha. Full mouth of spicy blackberry and smokiness. Fifty-eight thousand (750ml) and 515 magnum bottles were produced.

Finca Villacreces

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Vizcarra

A small but serious producer located in Burgos. In the 1980s, José Manuel Vizcarra Aguado was one of the pioneers in planting vineyards when there were fewer people interested in the Ribera del Duero area.

Today, the family winery is spearheaded by Jose’s son Juan Carlos Viscarra Ramos. The winery was immaculate and sterile. Juan Carlos offered his selection of 9 wines to taste. We loved these wines.

Wines Tasted:

Vizcarra Rosado 2021 **** ½ $24

Pink salmon color. Aromas of roses and marshmallows. Twenty-five hundred bottles have been produced.

Vizcarra JC Vizcarra 2019 **** ½ $45

100% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) sourced from a 70-year-old vineyard. Malolactic fermentation in new French oak and concrete tanks. Age for 18% months in 90% French oak and 10% American Oak. Deep purple color. Aromas of blueberry and violet. Flavors of juicy blueberry, cherry, and violet. Seventy thousand bottles were made.

Vizcarra Torravlo 2019 ***** $31

100% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) sourced from a 70-year-old vineyard. Malolactic fermentation in new French oak and concrete tanks. Age for 18% months in 90% French oak and 10% American Oak. Deep purple/opaque. Aromas of blueberry, cassis, and stone fruit. Lush mouthfeel with spicy fruit, great tannins, and a long finish.

Vizcarra Ines 2018 ****1/2 $31

90% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) sourced from 70-year-old vines and 10% Merlot sourced from a 25-year-old vineyard. Malolactic fermentation in the barrel. Age for 18% months in 90% French oak and 10% American Oak. Deep purple color. Aromas of blueberry and stone fruit. Full mouth of delicious, spicy blueberry, and raspberries.

Bodegas Vizcarra https://www.vizcarra.es/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Pradorey

Pradorey is an ambitious project in Ribera del Duero. They have several components that make up the group, including a winery, vineyards, a farm, and a historic Inn.

We had the pleasure of staying at the Posada (historic Inn) and meeting with lovely PR team members (Maria Angeles Martin and Raquel de los Ojos) for a wine-tasting and delicious dinner. You will find more information about Pradorey Posada in the “Where to Stay” section of this article.

Wines Tasted:

Pradorey Adaro 2019 ****1/2 $22

100% Organic Tempranillo sourced from a vineyard at 825 meters/ 2,700 feet. Aged for fifteen months in European Oak. Deep purple color. Aromas of blackberry and raspberry. Flavors of blueberry, raspberry, and violet. Twenty-eight thousand, twenty-eight bottles were produced.

Pradorey Cuentisata Tempranillo Blanco 2019 **** $30

Imagine a white wine made from 100% Tempranillo. This is it! High altitude vineyard at 812 meters/ 2,680 feet. Aged for nine months in American Oak barrels. Light gold straw color. Aromas of licorice and fennel. Flavors of wet stone and bittersweet flowers. Seven thousand bottles were produced.

Pradorey Finca La Mina Reserva 2019 ***** $27

100% Tempranillo sourced from a vineyard at 825 meters/ 2,700 feet. Aged in French oak barrels for sixteen months, aged for twelve months in the bottle. Deep purple color. Aromas of dark red fruit and licorice. Flavors of lush, spicy blueberry and plum. Forty-two thousand bottles were produced.

Pradorey Elite 2019 ***** $32

100% Tempranillo clone 120 sourced from a vineyard at 825 meters/ 2,700 feet. Fermented in traditional clay jars. Aged in French oak barrels for fourteen months. Opaque color. Aromas of blackberry and violet. Flavors of dark fruit, plum, and violet. Thirteen thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Pradorey

https://pradorey.es

Viendos Y Bodegas Garcia Figuero

We arrived after breakfast and were met by three family members waiting in front of their winery. The family patriarch Jose Maria Figuero, his son in law, Felipe Martin Cabezon, and his daughter Cristina Martin Garcia. Jose Maria said that harvest was on today and that we should jump in his car for a ride to the vineyard where hand harvesting was taking place.

Jose Maria was married in 1961 and for forty years he was a grape grower focused on producing the best fruit that came from the region. It was not until 2001, at the age of sixty-five, that he decide to build his winery facility.

When we arrived at the rows being harvested, we came across a multi-generational gypsy family, who were handpicking clusters of Tempranillo and placing them in wicker baskets. The family has been working harvest at Figuero for more than twenty-five years. The gypsy grandmother was wrapped in black garments and clearly camera-shy. Her younger grandsons were the reverse, making gestures and poses for my camera. It was clear that the family was quick and careful workers. You could see that Jose Maria had a warm feeling for the workers.

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Viendos Y Bodegas Garcia Figuero

We were met in the vineyard by Jose Maria’s son Antonio, the vineyard manager who was the point man for all the vineyard staff that day. Felipe is the winery’s general manager, and his daughter Cristina is an enologist.

After taking pictures we travel back to the winery for a brief tour and tasting. The family told us about the area’s rich history and the importance of the monks in the region.

Wines Tasted:

Tinto Figuero-Figuero 12 2019 ***** $30

100% Tempranillo- La Horra y Roa area. The vines were planted between 1965 and 1995. Hand harvest in wicker baskets. Aged for twelve months in new and used oak barrels (5% American oak, 95% French oak). Dark purple color. Aromas of intense black fruit, blueberry, and blackberry. Flavors of blackberry, plum, and leather. This is a lush and velvety wine. Two hundred and forty thousand bottles were produced.

Tinto Figuero-Figuero 15 Reserva 2018 ***** $49

100% Tempranillo- La Horra y Roa area. The vines were planted between 1910 and 1965. Single Vineyard bush vines. Aged for fifteen months in new oak barrels (40% American oak, 60% French oak). Deep cherry color. Aromas of blackberry, black pepper, and cigar. Flavors of deep lush blackberry and plum. Persistent finish with velvet tannins. Twenty thousand bottles were produced.

Tinto Figuero-Milagros De Figuero 2018 ****1/2 $75

100% Tempranillo- Paraje del Camino de los Frailes area. The vines were planted between 1940 and 1956 near the Duero River. Hand harvest in wicker baskets. Aged for fourteen months in 500L new oak (100% French). Dark ruby color. Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, nutmeg, and balsamic. Flavors of spicy raspberry with silky tannins. Less than ten thousand bottles were produced.

Tinto Figuero-Figuero Noble 2018 ****1/2 $129

100% Tempranillo- Torrosillo plot with thirty-five-year-old bush vines. Aged for twenty-one months in thin grain (French) oak. Deep cherry garnet color. Aromas of raspberry, and plum. Licorice and cinnamon. Flavors of juicy dark fruit with velvety tannins. Sixty-nine thousand, nine hundred bottles were produced.

At the time of our visit, the winery was looking to appoint a new US importer.

Viendos Y Bodegas Garcia Figuero

https://tintofiguero.com/

Pago De Los Cappellanes

In the fifteenth century, the chaplains of Pedrosa de Duero, in the Burgos Ribera, obtained several vineyards as payment for tithes, masses, and prayers. Pago De Los Cappellanes translates to “Payment of the Chaplins”. The highly praised property became over time one of the most recognized “payments” of the town.

The property was developed in the 19th century by a medical doctor named Doroteo Rodero. His Son Paco together with his wife, Conchita Villa, began to expand the property. They were among the first viticulturists of the Ribera del Duero Denomination of Origin and in 1996 they founded the winery at the foot of the vineyards.

Their daughter Estefanía Rodero Villa, an amazingly talented architect, designed their new winery and is the third generation now spearheading the wine business. The family owns a second wine enterprise in Galatia. We were excited to visit the modern winery with art installations where we watched a thirteen-minute video about the year in the seasons at Pago De Los Cappellanes. The music for the videos was composed by Estefania’s brother.

Wines Tasted:

Pago De Los Cappellanes Crianza 2019 **** $30

100% Tempranillo (Tinto del Pais). Sourced from thirty-five-year-old vines. Aged for twelve months in French oak barrels. Deep cheery color. Aromas of ripe cherry, cassis, and blackberry. Flavors of lush fruit, oak, and licorice. Five hundred thousand bottles were produced.

Pago De Los Cappellanes Parcela El Nogal 2018 **** $80

100% Tempranillo. Sourced from a high-altitude vineyard at 850 meters. Aged for twenty-two months in fine-grain French oak. Ruby color. Aromas of fruit salad and flowers. Flavors of silky red fruit with great tannins. Twenty thousand bottles were produced.

Pago De Los Cappellanes Parcela el Picón 2016 ***** $250

100% Tempranillo (Tinto del Pais) sourced from a 1.6-hectare plot. Aged for twenty-two months in fine-grain French oak. Ruby color. Aromas of wild blueberry and blackberry. Flavors of juicy, velvety fruit in the mouth. Two thousand, five hundred bottles were produced.

Pago De Los Cappellanes

https://pagodeloscapellanes.com/

Bodega y Viñedos Valderiz

Our visit to this winery was rushed due to the hectic harvest week. They have 60 hectares total, with over 35 plots of different soil types, and continental climate at a high-altitude plateau with striking temperature variations during each season. Their most remarkable Vineyards are Tomas Esteban and Juegabolos planted by Tomas Esteban, and those in the Valdehermoso section added by current generation Juan and Ricardo Esteban. This producer started in 1997 and has a Kaleidoscope of small vineyard plots.

Wines Tasted:

Bodega y Viñedos Valderiz Sitio de Valdehermoso 2020 ****1/2 $12

100 % Tempranillo (Tinta del Pais). Aged in oak for nine months (90% used oak French barrels, 10% new French oak barrels). Dark purple color. Aromas of blueberry, menthol, and white flowers. Flavors of juicy spicy dark fruit with a long finish. One hundred thousand bottles were made.

Bodega y Viñedos Valderiz Tomas Esteban 2014 ***** $120

Produced from 90% Tempranillo (Tinta del Pais) and 10% other native grapes. Aged for thirty months in 225-liter new French oak barrels. Deep purple color. Flavors of blueberry, raspberry, and stone fruit. Three thousand bottles were produced.

Bodega y Viñedos Valderiz-Valderiz 2019 ***** $32

Produced from 95% Tempranillo (Tinta del Pais) and 5% Albillo. Aged for twenty months in 80% French oak, and 20% American oak. Medium purple color. Aromas of blueberry and white flowers. Flavors of spicy blueberry and plums.

Bodega y Viñedos Valderiz

https://www.valderiz.com/en/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Felix Callejo

This is a strong family business founded in 1989 by Felix and Pilar Callejo. Today the winery is in the hands of the family’s second generation. It is run by Felix and Pilar’s four adult children, Beatriz, Noelia, José Félix, and Cristina Callejo.

When we visited in the morning the winery was in full-fledged harvest mode. Trucks were dropping off bins of freshly picked Tempranillo clusters. Staff was loading grapes onto the sorting tables that were outside. Fresh scents of crushed, fermenting grapes filled the air.

Cristina Callejo, export manager, led us into a conference room where we sat at a large table and began tasting wines.

Wines Tasted:

Callejo El Lebrero Albillo 2020 **** $20

100% Albillo handpicked from two vineyards. Fermented in stainless steel, large neutral oak barrels, and concrete egg. Aged for 8 months on the lees in concrete eggs. Golden yellow color. Aromas of apple, pear, and white flower. Flavors of tart ripe apple. Six thousand, four hundred bottles were made.

Callejo Parajes De Callejo 2020 **** $30

87% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino), 9% Garnacha, and 4% Albillo Mayor sourced from high altitude vineyards at 830 to 930 meters/ 2,723 to 3,051 feet. Aged for eighteen months in large neutral oak barrels. Dark ruby color. Aromas of creamy blueberry and cherry. Blueberry and cherry flavors with a long finish. Forty thousand bottles were produced.

Callejo Felix Callejo 2016 **** $85

100% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) sourced from high altitude vineyards at 830 to 930 meters/ 2,723 to 3,051 feet. Aged eighteen months in different barrel types. Dark ruby color. Aromas of blueberries and fresh flowers. Flavors of vibrant red fruit, blueberry, cherry, and balsamic. One thousand, two hundred and fifty-four bottles were produced.

Before we left, I was able to gather up the Callejo siblings for a family portrait.

Bodegas Felix Callejo

https://www.bodegasfelixcallejo.com/en/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Cillar De Silos

The Aragón family has been making premium quality wines in Ribera del Duero since the 1990s. Oscar Aragón Garcia and his brother Roberto also own Domino de Pidio wines. They predominantly sell their food-friendly wines to restaurants. When COVID-19 lockdowns went into place, and restaurants closed, it impacted their business hard. Fortunately, they could receive assistance through a special COVID relief fund and focus on their wines during dark and uncertain times.

We met Oscar and his assistant Paula at the winery office and tasting room. They asked our driver to follow them a short distance to the entrance to the underground cellars of Cillar De Silos. The cellars date back to the end of the 16th century. The natural humidity and temperature conditions (between 11, 5º, and 12º C) are consistent throughout the year and ideal for optimum wine aging.

Cillar De Silos acquired several adjacent ancient cellars and connected them with new construction ending with an overall more extensive cellar. Over the years, I have visited many underground cellars around the world. This one was much more expansive than most. I was told that the winery offers consumer and trade tours of the cellars.

After taking time-lapse photos of the cellar interiors, we packed up and returned to the tasting room for an above-ground wine tasting.

Wines Tasted:

Cillar de Silos Torresilo 2019 ***** $60 100% Tempranillo from unique terroirs, vineyard ages from 40 to 100 years old, located at 870 meters altitude. The wine is aged 16 to 18 months in French oak barrels. Dark ruby color. Aromas of red fruit and cherry. Flavors of vibrant cherry and plum. Thirty thousand bottles were produced.

Cillar de Silos La Vina de Amalio 2019 ***** $60

This wine is dedicated to the winery founder Amalio. 100% Tempranillo from vineyards planted in 1964, located at an altitude of 870 meters. Deep garnet color. Aromas of bright red fruit, cherry, and licorice. Flavors of juicy, fleshy, blackberry, and plum. Amazing tannins and finish. Three to four thousand bottles were produced.

Cillar De Silos

https://www.cillardesilos.es/

We met winemaker/ owner Oscar Aragón at Cillar De Silos, a unique winery with ancient underground cellars. Cillar de Silos is a tribute to the monk who was historically in charge of the stewardship at the Silos Monastery, known as the Cillero.

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Bodegas Portia

Portia is an ultra-modern winery owned by the Faustino group owners Familia Martínez Zabala. Designed by the famous and prestigious architectural studio Foster & Partners, the winery was completed in 2010 at a cost of 15 million Euros. The tri-fold design expresses the three main stages of winemaking: fermentation in steel vats, aging in oak barrels, and aging in glass bottles.

We visited the winery mid-morning and were given a tour of the production facility. Afterward, we were led into their restaurant for a wine-tasting and delicious lunch.

Wines Tasted:

Bodegas Portia Prima 2019 $42

100% Tempranillo. This profoundly hued wine hits yum with black cherry and dark berries with dark plums, vanilla, and mocha flavors with a soft, velvety finish.

Bodegas Portia Summa Edición Limitada 2019 $90

100% Tempranillo grapes from Portia’s select blocks of 100-year-old vines. This blockbuster Tempranillo sings with dark plums, dark chocolate, and vanilla aromas. It is followed at the palate by hints of cinnamon, clove, and a long tannic finish that indicates the potential longevity of this wine. Aged in 400-liter, new French oak barrels for 14 months.

Bodegas Portia

http://www.bodegasportia.com/en/

Bosque Matasnos

This unique wine estate is in the upper highlands of Burgos. They have a total of 240 hectares, with 70 under vine. The property also includes an 80-hectare forest. The vineyards were planted in 1966 and are diversified into three levels near the Duero River with slopes.

We visited Jaime Postigo Gomez at a small house located in the middle of the property. From there, he drove us around the vast estate of 100% certified organic and sustainable vineyards.

They are planting many things throughout the land in a sustainable program. Jaime has plans to grow truffles by implementing a program that will provide the correct environment for truffles to grow and thrive.

There are also plans to build a new winery on the estate. When we visited, the steel framework had already been erected. Jaime expects that construction will be finalized in the next 24 months.

After we toured the property, we returned to the small vineyard house for a guided wine tasting with Jaime, where his two loving dogs joined us.

Wines Tasted:

Bosque De Matasnos Etiqueta Blanca 2019 ****1/2 $26

A blend of different barrels (94 %Tempranillo, 4% Merlot, 2% Malbec). Aged for three years in oak. Dark ruby color. Scents of blackberry, plum, and wonderful, lush fruit. Flavors of dry, chalky blackberry with firm tannins. Eight thousand bottles were produced.

Bosque De Matasnos Edición Limitada 2019 ***** $45

100% Tempranillo sourced from bush vines planted in 1920. Aromas of chalky, earth blueberry. Smoky flavors of dry red fruit, plums, leather, and forest floor. This is a true expression of the vineyard’s terroir. Thirty thousand bottles were produced.

Bosque Matasnos

https://bosquedematasnos.es/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

El Lagar de Isilla

This producer has wine tourism down to a tee. It all started in 1995 in the 15th-century historic underground cavern below the now-existing restaurant Lagar de Isilla

The family purchased a historic, rundown cellar and painstakingly refurbished it, expanding it into a winery, hotel, gift shop, and spa with two restaurants. The bubbly Pilar Zapatero Pinto, Export Manager, and family spokeswoman greeted us upon arrival.

The property is close to the still operational eight-hundred-year-old Monasterio Santa Maria de La Vid. The hotel offers eleven suites and nine rooms, all with a wine or regional theme. We stayed in The Barrels Junior Suite (€145) with a King Bed, Hydro massage tub, and shower. It was spacious and well-decorated.

Pilar suggested that we visit the spa with a heated pool in the basement. It had many jets for soothing your back and neck. It also had a mist shower which alternating hot and cold misting.

After getting dressed, we went downstairs to the bar and restaurant La Casona de la Vid, where we enjoyed cocktails. We were later met by Miguel Sans Cabrejas, Director General of the Ribera del Duero D.O. Miguel provided an update on recent regional developments, including news that three more wineries were under development and would be opening soon.

Since Pilar had family obligations that night, Miguel joined us for dinner and guided us through a tasting of El Lagar de Isilla wines.

Wines Tasted:

El Lagar de Isilla Albillo Mayor 2020 **** ½ $32

Straw gold color. Aromas of apricot and citrus. Saline, fresh fruit, and elegant floral flavors with a great finish. Only one thousand, seven hundred bottles were produced.

El Lagar de Isilla PARAJE PEÑALOBOS 2019 ****1/2 $38

100% Tempranillo from three vineyards with an average age of 100 years, located at 900 meters (2,952 feet). Deep ruby color. Aromas of black fruit, blackberry, juniper, and tobacco. Flavors of lush black fruit, spicy peppers with fantastic tannins. Less than three thousand seven hundred and fifty ml and fifty magnum bottles were produced.

El Lagar de Isilla

https://www.lagarisilla.es/

Dominio De Atauta

Bodega Dominio De Atauta is in the center of the Atauta Valley in a small area called Soria.

This unique property has three elements: excellent soil diversity, altitudes of up to 1,000 meters/ 3,280 feet, and calcareous bedrock in depth. Dominio De Atauta owns 21 hectares of vineyards and manages and controls another 22 hectares of vineyards, divided into 600 plots. More than 85% of the vines are pre-phylloxera, some over 100 years old.

The vines grow throughout the valley behind the winery. The temperatures vary drastically from the daytime to evening, helping create a unique level of acidity in the vines with low pH levels.

We visited with winemaker Jaime Suarez in the throes of harvest. Spending about an hour with him tasting four different wines was an honor. We were very impressed with Jaime’s deep connection to the land and vines, which is reflected in the quality of his wines.

Wines Tasted:

Dominio De Atauta Albillo Mayor 2021 ***** $40

100% Albillo Mayor grapes sourced from 138-year-old vines. Aged in old/ used barrels. Straw Color. Floral aromas of pear, stone fruit, chalk, and thyme. Old world finesse with flavors of bright lemon, herbs, and high acidity. Two thousand, twenty-four bottles were produced.

Dominio De Atauta Parada De Atauta 2019 ****1/2 $30

100% Tinto Fino grapes sourced from 90-year-old vines. Aged in concrete and French oak barrels. Ruby/ cherry color. Aromas of bright red fruit, violets, and thyme. Flavors of dark red fruit, plums, raspberry, and herbs with silky tannins. Fifty-two thousand, eight hundred twenty-three 750ml and nine hundred magnum bottles were produced.

Dominio De Atauta 2019 ***** $40

100% Tinto Fino grapes sourced from 120-year-old vines in clay soil. Aged for fourteen months in French oak barrels (15% new, 85% used for different time periods). Bright cherry color. Intense blackberry, plum, and herbaceous aromas. Juicy dark fruit, blueberry, plum, and light leather. Forty-two thousand, five hundred and twenty-eight, 750ml and nine hundred magnum bottles produced.

Dominio De Atauta Valdegatiles 2014 ***** $125-140

100% Tinto Fino grapes sourced from 130-140-year-old vines at 965 meters/ 3,166 feet in clay soil. Aged for eighteen months in French Oak barriques (40% new, 60% semi-new), then one year in stainless steel, and one year final aged in bottles. Dark Ruby. Aromas of baked red fruit and a fresh vegetable garden. Powerhouse fruit flavors, raspberry, plum, cherry, and cocoa. One thousand, two-hundred and twenty-nine bottles were produced.

Dominio De Atauta

https://www.dominiodeatauta.com/en/

Bodegas Valduero

This wine producer is dedicated to producing premium wines for the most discriminated wine aficionados and restaurateurs catering to these clients. The company was founded in 1984 as one of the founding members of the Ribera del Duero D.O.

Gregorio García Álvarez (industrial engineer) founded the winery in 1984. In 1987, his daughter Yolanda García Viadero joined the winery’s technical management (agronomist and Master’s in Oenology), and immediately afterward, her sister Carolina (with an MBA in Art and History) joined to develop the commercial side of the business.

Photo provided by Bodegas Valduero

Feature : Ribera del Duero

The winery has extensive underground cellars, engineered and designed by Gregorio. The family initially focused exclusively on producing Gran Reserva and Reserva wines. So, depending on the quality of each harvest year, they sometimes decide not to make wine, selling off grapes to other wine producers. These ultra-high standards have earned Valduero a reputation for being one of Europe’s best producers of premium-quality wine.

In November 2011, they launched the exclusive La Tenada Membership Club, allowing consumers, celebrities, and restaurateurs to purchase full barrels of their wine. The club is promoted as the most exclusive wine club in the world. The club was inaugurated by Mr. Vicente del Bosque, coach of the Spanish Football Team. Dire Straits Co-founder and lead guitarist Mark Knopfler and Spanish opera great Plácido Domingo are just three of the celebrity club members.

Members purchase a barrel of wine (300-750ml bottles) and get to sign the barrelhead, which ceremonially gets permanently displayed in a special area of Valduero’s wine cellar. Members can bring up to twenty guests to Valduero for a VIP tour and lunch.

Darcy and I visited on our last day in Ribera del Duero. Export Area Manager Lorenzo Breschi, a seasoned wine professional born in Italy, greeted us. Lorenzo informed us upfront that meeting Yolanda may not be possible since she was actively involved in the harvest. We briefly watched Yolanda power walk to the wine cellars at a superhero speed.

Photo provided by Bodegas Valduero

Lorenzo gave me a proper tour of the vast cellars. Darcy hitched a ride to Valduero’s exclusive restaurant that is run by Michelin Star Chefs. Lorenzo and I joined Darcy in the restaurant after I toured the cellars, the photography exhibit, and a preview of the many signed barrelheads.

When we arrived, we were met by a group of five restaurateurs and their significant others from Puerto Rico. The group had just signed a barrel head and were celebrating that they were newly installed club members.

We sat with Lorenzo, who guided us through tasting four different wines. I was told that Yolanda had been one of the biggest proponents of the Albillo grape in Ribera del Duero for many years before it was officially approved by the D.O. in 2019.

Wines Tasted:

Valduero Blanco 2021 ***** $25-30

100% Albillo sourced from a fifteen-year-old vineyard. Pale straw color. Floral aromas of pineapple and grapefruit. Intense citrus flavors with a long finish. Forty-two thousand bottles were produced.

Valduero Una Cepa 2017 ****1/2 $45-50

100% Tinto Fino sourced from a fifty-year-old vineyard. Aged for eighteen months in French oak barrels, then aged an additional twelve months in bottles. Ruby/ Cherry Color. Aromas of blueberry and cherry. Flavors of fresh red currant, plums, and leather. One hundred and eighty thousand bottles were produced.

Valduero Tierra Alta De 2 Cotas 2015 ***** $60

100% Tempranillo sourced from a forty-year-old vineyard. Aged for thirty months in French oak barrels. Bright purple color. Aromas of dark fruit, tobacco, and leather. Bright, juicy, blackberry, plum, coffee, and mocha flavors. Excellent tannins with a long finish. Seventy-two thousand bottles were produced.

Valduero 6 Años Reserva Premium 2014 ***** $90-100

100% Tempranillo sourced from a forty-year-old vineyard. Aged for 36 months in barrels and an additional 36 months in bottles. Intense dark ruby color. Aromas of plum, cedar, and coffee. Very floral, blueberry, plum, and red fruit flavors. Long finish. This wine is Valduero’s Opus! Thirty thousand bottles were produced.

Bodegas Valduero

https://bodegasvalduero.com/en/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Where to Stay

Arzuaga Hotel & Spa

Part of the Bodega Arzuaga, rooms are spacious and modern. They have a small gym, a spa, and a pool, with two restaurants on the property, including One Star Michelin Taller Arzuaga. Double rooms ($163)

Hotel Arzuaga

https://www.hotelarzuaga.com/

Posada Real Sitio De Ventosilla

This is a historic gem of Ribera del Duero. The property was built in 1601 and was owned by Spain’s King Phillipe III and used as his hunting lodge. Today this royal site is owned by Pradorey winery. The property has eighteen rooms, and many of the rooms have been updated with air conditioning. Double rooms: €109 standard room / €129 superior room includes breakfast and visits to the winery. If you are lucky, they may give you a tour of the historic chapel. Amenities include a pool, tennis court, and walking paths adjacent to the property’s active farm.

Posada Real Sitio De Ventosilla

https://pradorey.es/posada/

Torremilanos Hotel and Winery

This family-run property produces excellent wine and offers large, modern, spacious sleeping accommodations overlooking the vineyards (142.50 €). Their restaurant has a great selection of authentic Spanish cuisine.

Torremilanos Hotel and Winery

https://www.hoteltorremilanos.es/en/

Boutique Hotel El Lagar de Isilla

Twenty rooms, and eleven suites, all wine-themed, with a spa, two restaurants, a winery, a bar, and a gift shop. This touristic property has wine everywhere.

Boutique Hotel El Lagar de Isilla.

https://www.lagarisilla.es/hotel-boutique-el-lagar-de-isilla/ el-hotel/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

taller Arzuaga

Curated by chef Víctor Gutiérrez.

Taller Arzuaga is a fabulous fine dining restaurant in the heart of Ribera del Duero wine country. Chef Víctor Gutiérrez is the only chef in the Castilla y León region with two restaurants, each with Michelin stars. He is a native of Peru, and his cuisine hints at Peruvian and Japanese influences.

We loved the Grand Reserve Menu (€250 per person) at the one Michelin Star taller Arzuaga Restaurant. We enjoyed a three-hour, multi-course gustation wine-paired lunch. The open kitchen allowed us to view the young chefs and prep teams building exquisite dishes. The sommelier and young chefs were very proud of their cuisine.

Grand Reserve Lunch Menu

Appetizers Gold

(Tomato, herbs, banana, chocolate)

5 Bites

(Trout, roedeer, rabbit, brains)

Croaker Ceviche

Our Organic Orchard

Sea Rice, Norway Lobster with Roar

Grouper with lime and three sauces

Suckling lamb chops, gizzard, and saffron

Whites

Petit Four

The wines included Champagne and a selection of wines from Bodega Arzuaga, carefully selected by Sommelier Irene Gonzales Gomez. Miss Amaya Arzuaga Navarro, Directora, presented an olive oil pairing in the middle of our lunch.

Taller Arzuaga (***** Highly Recommended)

https://www.tallerarzuaga.com/

Cepa 21

Winery and Restaurant by Alberto Soto

It is an amazing restaurant based at CEPA 21 Winery. Inventive, highly visual, wine-friendly cuisine. We are guessing that a Michelin Star is in their future.

Menu Cepa 21

Ensaladilla

A bonbon with gordal olive mayonnaise and roe.

Queso de oveja

A sandwich with raw sheep milk ream (instead of bread) with dehydrated meringue with tomato powder to provide an airy texture.

Pate de lechal y vino

Suckling Lamb pate fritter with wine gel.

Pan chino trufado

Fried bread with cream cheese and truffle filling.

Ajoblanco

White asparagus cream with melon cannelloni stuffed with smoked eel.

Pescado y calamar

Fish loins with cream of squid stew in its own ink, apple chutney, turnip, green beans, zucchini, squid spear, nori seaweed, spinach, and wakame air.

Rabo de toro

Bull stew meatballs with au jus of bull stew and cauliflower cream.

Citricos

Refreshments made with two citrus fruits, oriental citrus yuzu, kumquat or Chinese dwarf Orange, lime cream, cookie and butter crumble, yogurt, and basil foam with a veil of meringue.

Chocolate y avellana

A cold chocolate and hazelnut topping.

Petit Fours

€ 65 per person ***** Highly Recommended https://www.cepa21restaurante.com/

Feature : Ribera del Duero

Our memories of visiting Ribera del Duero are magical. This region represents Spain’s strongest statement for prominence amongst the world’s most respected red wine regions. Ribera del Duero is ideal for a weeklong wine-country vacation. You’ve got all the ingredients: world-class wines, fantastic cuisine, and 5-star accommodations.

Move over

France, Italy,

and

Sonoma,

Ribera del Duero is coming at you!

Christopher J Davies, Co-Founder, (C) Pilar Sanz, Guide and Darcy R. Davies, Co-Founder

Photo by Javier Gonzalez, Driver

Parting Shots

Cheese

Our founders will travel to Piedmont to attend Slow Food’s festival, which is dedicated to raw milk and natural cheese in Bra, Italy, from September 15 to 18, 2023. This fourteenth edition brings together herders, cheesemakers, chefs, and enthusiasts. The theme of this year’s edition is The Taste of the Meadows, emphasizing how raw milk from pasture-raised animals is crucial to sustainable food systems. https://cheese.slowfood.it/en/

Grape Expectations: Riesling

Our Grape Expectations column will feature Riesling, the aromatic, food-friendly white grape native to Germany and commonly found in France, Australia, and the United States. One of the few white wines that can age for decades. Often assumed to be a sweet wine, Riesling can run the gamut from super sweet to bone dry, but it always displays its signature racy acidity.

Photo courtesy of Slow Food.