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FSM 404 T R E N D S
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best presentation powerpoints
‘GARAGE’
Spring/Summer 2020/21 Stephanie Ferreira
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NEW: BRINGING BACK THE 80s & 90s
Newspaper Articles “Looking back at the 1990s jungle and garage scene” – The Metro Newspaper (09/04/18)
“80s style with thick curls, wide shoulder pads and a white polo neck jumper” – The Evening Standard (11/04/18)
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More Article Research
EVIDENCE THAT UK GARAGE WILL LIVE ON TILL S/S 2020, AND BEYOND?
BACK TO OLD-SKOOL? RECENT EVENTS? FUTURE FASHION? 24|04|2018
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Fashion Space Gallery Visit PRIMARY RESEARCH (own images)
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‘GARAGE’
Situated right behind Oxford Circus, Fashion Space Gallery is an exciting contemporary exhibition space, presenting changing exhibitions engaging with fashion in its widest sense. CLOSE-UP
DISPLAY
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Fashion Space Gallery Visit FLAMBOYANT & FLASHY PATTERNS
POPULAR: MOSCHINO
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‘GARAGE’
TONNES OF GROOVY PRINTS
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COMBINING MONOCHROME WITH HIGHLIGHTS
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Fashion Space Gallery Visit “JUNGLE STYLE IS SHARP, CHIC & GHETTO FABULOUS” - DJ JUMPIN JACK FOREST
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Mood Board
CLUB SCENE
The merging of the 90s garage trend with a monochrome colour scheme emphasises the vintage culture but with fewer crazy colours to offer more of a modern and subtle look.
RICH
NEUTRAL
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Colour Palette
MONOCHROME X BRIGHT COLOUR HIGHLIGHTS BRIGHT COLOUR HIGHLIGHTS PANTONE 128c
PANTONE 0131c
goldenrod yellow primrose yellow
The Conran Shop marine blue coffee brown
PANTONE 534c
PANTONE 875c
MONOCHROME
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midnight black
PANTONE 426c
anchor grey
PANTONE 431c
coin grey
PANTONE 538c
One of my sketchbook ideas that stood out
A four tone monochrome enriched with four main highlights shows careful experimentation with saturation that portrays different intensities. It brings out a unique value to it as I added a mix of dark marine blue with a soft coffee brown.
Mary Katrantzou, Selfridges
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2 Colours
Colour Usage 4 Colours
5 Colours
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‘GARAGE’
Fabrics Trims
ZIP EMBELLISHMENTS
BUTTONS
DENIM
COTTON
LINEN EYELETS
RUFFLES WOOL FABRIC
NYLON SPANDEX
CHECK PO&CO METALLIC THREAD
WAISTBAND
CASHMERE
POLYESTER PRINT
MESH
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‘GARAGE’
Silhouettes
FITTED
FLARED
PUFFER
STRETCHY
A-LINE
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‘GARAGE’
PRINTS WILL NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE.
Key Item: PRINTS
“MIX FEELINGS AND PRINTS THIS SPRING” Burney, E. (2018)
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1. Joshua Kane
Influencers
Born: Oxford Based: London Study: 1st Class Honours Degree in Fashion Design at Kingston Uni Brand: Independent British luxury creating beautiful and imaginative tailoring for both genders. His distinctive use of colour, pattern and form using historical inspiration infused with his own personal eccentricity.
2. Chase and Status
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‘GARAGE’
Born: ‘80s Based: London Study: University of Manchester (all) Brand: Garage/Jungle inspired band of artists who have always been into the vibe and “rude boy clothes”
1. Chase & Status
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Garments 1
WAISTCOATS
Joshua Kane Inspired
PRINT ON SIDE OF HEEL
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‘GARAGE’
MESH SKIRT OVER FLARED TROUSERS
RE-CREATED SNEAKER-HEEL
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OFF-SHOULDER PLEATED DRESS
CHUNKY
Garments 2
TIE-UP CROP TEE
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‘GARAGE’
Another one of my sketchbook ideas that stood out
COMFY SLIP-ON SNEAKER
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Garments 3
RUFFLE LINEN/COTTON JUMPER
OVERSIZED POLO SHIRT DRESS
NYLON SPANDEX SWIMSUIT WITH DETAILED STITCHING
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LOGOS ON SOLES
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PLAITED WOVEN SOLE ON ESPADRILLES
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Garments 4 SHOULDER PAD FASHION
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Accessories
GOLD CHAIN
BEAD NECKLACE
HAIR CLAW CLIP
SUMMER HAT
CHOKER
DRAWSTRING BACKPACK
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‘GARAGE’
MOSCHINO GLASSES + BRACELET
90s VINYL LEATER LOOK BELT WITH STUDS
GUCCI HANDBAG
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MICAH MAHINAY’S TWITTER PHOTOS
#GETYOURHOOPSON 17
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Target Market
AGE: 15-30 Years old
(Less reliant on parents as they get older)
LOCATION: Urban area
BUDGET: High street, mostly designer – willing to spend money on good quality LIFESTYLE: UK Garage/Jungle lover, often at the local club, embraces culture through groovy outfits PERSONALITY: Creative, experimental, crazy & overall a trendsetter who keeps an eye out on what's new.
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Muse 1. Rhiannon Barry
AGE: 28 PROFFESION: Stylist and Businesswoman for ‘Wavey Garms’ PERSONAL STYLE: 90’s Garage & Grime Inspired, Experimental and Unique Rhiannon stated “As a collector, I LOVE the excitement of sourcing each garment; they each have their own story...” (Fashion Space Gallery, 2018). However, as years have passed and club scenes transformed, she now says that she “used to buy pieces for going out but now it’s for Instagram.” (N, Eden 2017) 24|04|2018
(Zahran, H 2014)
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Muse 2. Micah Mahinay
AGE: 25 PROFFESION: DJ (Noodles) & Businesswoman for ‘Send Noodz’ PERSONAL STYLE: 90’s Garage & Grime Inspired, Modern and Groovy
(Haines, A 2016)
1989 – Worked at Passion Records on Oxford St, selling jungle, hardcore, techno & house. 2008 – Discovered her fathers turntables and began practising how to properly mix and scratch on vinyl records. Early 2014 - R&B singer “Kehlani” approached her and asked her to be her tour DJ. Micah said: “The sound I created was a hybrid sound of jungle and R&B, which evolved into UK garage.“ (Fashion Space Gallery, 2018)
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(Perez, P 2013)
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Social Media - Interview
IN CONVERSATION WITH RHIANNON ISABEL BARRY: “SOUTH LONDON ATTITUDE, STYLIN’ AND WAVY GARMS” Watson-Rose, T. (2018)
T (childhood friend): How do you think your style has evolved over the years? R: Back then I wore Moschino – way more than I do now, Huaraches, Leggings, a little crop-top, an Eastpak and Supreme wooly hat *laughs* I don’t really think it’s changed. I just think it’s got more sophisticated... T: My style has completely changed! R: Yeah yeah it has *laughs* But my style has literally been developing since I was a teenager. I’ve been wearing Moschino since 13 years old with AirMax 97’s, big gold earrings and white wallabies. T: And now? Like any noticeable changes? R: A nice pair of boots *laughs*... Less trainers, I still wear trainers though.
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‘GARAGE’ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Main References
Eden, N. 2017. Available at: https://thedebrief.co.uk/style/fashion/rhiannon-barryinterview-adidas/ Haines, A. 2016. Available at: https://hypebae.com/2016/4/micah-noodles-mahinayinterview Perez, P. 2013. Available at: http://www.theaureview.com/features/5-acts-fromeverywhere-else-playing-at-cmj-that-you-should-check-out Zahran, H. 2014. Available at: http://hannahzahran.tumblr.com/page/6 ‘Anna’, 2018. Available at: http://cometrend.com/?p=51957 Haines, A. 2016. Available at: https://hypebae.com/2016/4/micah-noodles-mahinayinterview Watson-Rose, T. 2018. Available at: https://watsonrose.co.uk/2018/03/26/inconversation-w-rhiannon-wavey-garms/ Burney, E. 2018. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/10-trends-to-try-in-2018
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‘GARAGE’ UK Garage is a form of electronic dance music which originated in clubs at Vauxhall, South London around 19941996 and rapidly spread around the capital. Fun fact: The main difference between UK & US Garage, other than being faster, was the use of heavy sub-bass which had more in common with drum n’ bass or reggae than traditional house or garage.
Stephanie Ferreira
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OREZIME ESSEH S01002579
FSD 404 TREND PREDICTION PACKAGE SPRING/SUMMER 20
H O M E L E S S
H A U T E
2
CONTENT
‘‘
Fashion is a form of ugliness so
03.
overview
04.
moodboard
05.
media articles
06.
colour board
07.
fabric sheet
08.
texture sheet
09.
texture sheet
10.
garment board
trims & details
15.
target market
intolerable that we have to alter it every six
months
’’
11. -Oscar Wilde
14.
muse
3 OVERVIEW TRASH Homeless Haute, a familiar trend making moves in the fashion industry has drawn inspiration from the nineties. The aesthetics is a combination of grunge fashion with the revival of classic pieces like the ‘oversized everything’ which contributes to the overall shabby look. This new trend threatens the norm in fashion and has pushed boundaries in terms of what is male and female fashion. It requires attention to detail. Experimenting with maximalism and layering is an important part of achieving this look.
FASHION
4
MAXIMALISM
AESTHETICS
Homeless Haute takes inspiration from the 90s punk/grunge look that countered the norm culture. The idea of embracing one’s style and playing with several fun pieces is the latest cool trend.
90s INSPIRED: PUNK REBELLION
This new boldness and urge to experiment with wild floral patterns, oversized silhouettes and bold colours is known as MAXIMALISM. This post minimalist trend challenges conventional fashion and has the spring season written all over it.
5
AESTHETICS
THE LO-FI LOOK
LAYERING
Surprisingly homeless people have inspired latest runway shows, with models showcasing recycled outfits, extreme layered clothing and shopping carts. This look seems is very common with the “ignorant fashion� trend lately.
Layering is the new cool this season as brands like Vetements and Balenciaga has everyone wearing the entire closet in one outfit. Not exactly practical to do in the spring but can be substituted with simpler and softer pieces.
HOMELESS HAUTE
6
MOODBOARD
The Moodboard is a combination of images that depict the aesthetic of Homeless Haute. The use of vintage flowers to represent the element of Maximalism. Also, the 90s graphics symbolizes how the 90s grunge style inspires modern fashion. Other images express the Lo-Fi trend, the shabby look. The idea of dressing-down has now become fashionable.
7
THE 90’s INFLUENCE
The Super Sharp exhibition explores the appropriation of italian designer brands in the underground music scenes of Jungle and UK Garage. Recently there has been a revival of interest in the music, style and culture of the time. Even though Jungle and Uk Garage took place before the emergence of the Internet, their history is extensively documented online.
FASHION SPACE GALLERY SUPER SHARP
MEDIA ARTICLES
HOMELESS STREET CULTURE
7
MEDIA ARTICLES
THE RISE OF MAXIMALISM
8
MEDIA ARTICLES
8
SOFT PASTELS The unconventional colour palette is a blend of soft pastels and vibrant hues. The core colours which are red, yellow and purple can be dulled down by the pastel colours which offer a rather soft vibe. These colours are also complemented by the rich eccentric fabrics.
HIGH INTENSITY COLOURS
COLOUR BOARD
1980’S RAVE YOUTH
The popular 1980’s look continues to influence simple T-shirt designs this season. For a playful option this Summer, placement/centered graphics of rave club flyers to promote nightlife are going to be a major trend. Neon colours and gradients, inverted photos, bizarre texts and graphics are incorporated to give off a lo-fi vibe for the summer.
9
PRINT & GRAPHIC SHEET
10
PRINT & GRAPHIC SHEET
CONTRAST BLOCKING IN
ATHLETIC WEAR
Still about the 90’s culture, a number of sportswear brands have incorporated colour blocking into their pieces. Mix and matching vibrant hues to reinvent popular old school pieces like oversized jackets and T-shirts. The geometric arrangements of the colours give off an exciting and experimental vibe suitable for the summer.
10
CREASED SURFACES
Crushed Bronze Metallic Suede
FABRIC SHEET
Creased Taffeta
Crumbled surfaces have become very prominent on several catwalks this season. Inspired by the Lo-Fi aesthetic, this fabric technique gives edge and dimension to casual looks and creates even more impact with shiny with the use of shiny fabrics. Creased denim, Linen, Cotton and metallic materials are very suitable for this look.
Crushed Metallic
Creased Denim
12 This season shiny and outgoing fabrics are a major trend. Once again we can see how the 90’s elements come to play once again. Holographic and Acetate fabrics are suitable for the summer vibe and aesthetic, it might not be a great choice in regards to the summery weather. Pleather and PVC materials also give opportunity to create maximalist looks, it is also
FINE SHINE
inspired by the 90s nightlife culture.
Holographic PVC
Acetate Pleathe r
FABRIC SHEET
11
TRIMS & DETAILS
In the spirit of Maximalism, vintage floral patterns
Washed Denim
making a headway for clothes this season. Whether a soft flowy dress or a sturdy two-piece suit, this delicate pattern is perfect for the summer. Mix matching these patterns in a patch work is a an experimental way to rework classic pieces in a modern way. Also Denim never gets old but reworking iit with different shades of denim gives the look a contemporary feel.
Vintage Floral
PATCHWORK
STRAPPED UP
11
Strap details such as ties and bows, buckles, industrial straps and intricate yet stylish body armour are in for the season. Used to define the body shape or just worn for an aesthetic, these items are going to be a staple piece for the summer. They bring the drama into very simple designs.
TRIMS & DETAILS
FLORAL
INVASION
12
Crushed Bronze Metallic Suede
Free-flowing Pieces
Chunky Socks
Ugly Shoe and Sock Trend
Placement prints
All-over Prints
PUNK REBELLION
Lo-Fi Prints
This range is very 90s grunge inspired. A lot patchwork, 90s graphics and chunky sandals are essential pieces for the summer .
Chunky Sandals
Denim Patchwork 90’s Graphics
Crushed Taffeta
ANDROGYNOUS Sharp and Oversize
ENSEBLE
Recently, the idea of the genderless generation has inspired designers to create androgynous clothes. This range includes loose fitting pieces, the use of the colour yellow and some chunky accessories.
Chunky Shoes
S T R A P P E D-U P
Knots and Bows
Holographic fabric Pleather
Chunky Mules
The use of Plaid in reminiscence of the 90’s
ITEMS TO LOOK OUT FOR
Patchwork and 90s Inspired Graphic Floral Pieces
Androgynous Pieces
Chunky Shoes
JADEN SMITH Jaden Smith’s fashion style has always been popular for its uniqueness and creativity. He is known for combining clothes from luxury brands and streetwear brands to create a modern day grunge aesthetic. His style experiments with mixing patterns and textures and also layering. Jaden is also well known to delve into the women’s section of the store and has created some of the iconic looks of his generation..
American actor, rapper, singer and songwriter
16
MUSE
NEWS ARTICLE
‘‘
The kid makes Louis Vuitton’s women’s collection look like a zillion bucks.
’’
UGLY FASHION & GEN Z
17
TARGET DEMOGRAPHY
The ugly fashion trend is noticeably predominant among the younger generation (Gen Z). With these group of customers, individualism is an important element in expressing their authentic self rather than sticking to a trend or dress code. Finding their identity and being unique is an important quality among these customers.
INDIVIDUALISM The idea of a genderless generation has
CREATIVITY
pushed designers to create more androgynous clothes. More millennials are identifying as LGBTQA than other generations and the fact
FLUIDITY
that non binary people struggle with buying clothes is outdated.
S/S 20 Euphoric Utopia
FSM404 Alexa Bortz
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
INDEX
-
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
macro trend micro trends moodboard colour board textiles garments muse target market
MOODBOARD
focusing on contrasting prints and patterns together, while mixing combinations of both warm & cool pastel tones
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
MACRO TREND This idea of a Utopia and living within a peaceful world that rejects the basic capitalist system is a theme that is currently on the rise. The youth of our generation want to see a world where our current social/political problems cease to exist.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
MACRO TREND The youth is craving a more liberal, and free spirited outlook and lifestyle. Documentaries, ar t exhibitions, and social media have recently influenced the rise in the modern day d r e a m e r. P e o p l e a r e craving a sense of freedom and detachment from traditional societal values.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
MICRO TREND
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Plaid is a must have this season and adds a little bit of edge to every outfit. Picnic blanket small checkered red and pink plaid is especially on trend, in addition to the classic black and white.
MICRO TREND
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Thick and pin stripes on thin cotton tapestry or with frayed edges is a big trend during spring/summer. Usually in neutral and pale blue tones
MICRO TREND
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Woven accessories are a major trend this spring/summer. Using thick straw weaving method versus a tight knit stitch creates versatility and adds a bohemian edge.
MICRO TREND
Florals are a must have in every closet for spring/summer. This season focuses on smaller print florals reminiscent of traditional tapestry
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
COLOUR BOARD
Euphoric Utopia focuses on combining a range of warm, cold, and neutral pastel colours to enhance and establish a light and nostalgic mood, reminiscent of the Mediterranean and brighter days.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
TEXTILES
Fabrics used are all organic, lightweight, extremely breathable.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Fauna jumpsuit in the colour scarlet shrub. with golden plaid straps.
GARMENT SHEET
Flora jumpsuit in the colour teal tapestry. matched with golden plaid shirt, straps, pockets.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Dreamer two piece set in sky blue pinstripe cotton with patches of deep blu & baby pink plaid
GARMENT SHEET
Aura dress in teal tapestry with cream stitch hemp lining and sleeves
Serenity two piece set with the top in baby pink and golden plaid, and pants in pink dandelion with naartjie stitch hemp
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
GARMENT SHEET
Cosy Bay bikini in a combination of deep blue plaid, scarlet shrub, & turquoise tapestry
Clifton one-piece in baby pink plaid with deep blue plaid straps
Llandudno bikini in turquoise tapestry with grey straps and trimmings
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Woven sandal in baby blue and baby pink
ACCESORIES
Woven slides in scarlet shrub and royal blue shrub.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
MUSE
The muse for this collection is model and free spirit, Mimi Elashiry. Her energy, attitude, and aesthetic represent the vibe and liberal youth that Euphoric Utopia represents
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
TARGET MARKET
The target market are young, liberal leaders who pride themselves on their free spirit and are determined to create a perfect world. The range is dedicated to women specifically between the ages of 18-25.
S/S 20 EUPHORIC UTOPIA
Sick
S/s 2020 FSM 404
Rachael Suiker
“
there are people who choose to express themselves this way because of mental health or other illnesses; it’s a creative outlet for them.
“
- June Crees ‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Index 04 media articles 05 06 video Colour Board 07 Key Fabrics 08 Trims & Details 09 Moodboard
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
10 1 Graphic Prints Glossy 12 Garment Boards 13-15 Accessories 16-17 Muse 18 Target Market 19 Ruffles
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Moodboard
Sick Cute
etherial and girly yet dark and twisted
Media Articles
“Dressing up in yamikawaii style is a way for some to let others know that they are suffering psychologically or in mental anguish of some kind.”
“Yami-kawaii-“yami” meaning sick or alluding to the hospital- is a “sick cute” aesthetic that has been bubbling out of Tokyo’s streets and manifests through accessories such as fake guns, syringes, gas masks, pills, bandages and plasters.” ‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
video
Source: “a new look is challenging one of Japan’s deepest taboos, depression and mental illness…the style is called yami kawaii.”
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Colour Board
A palette made up of cool toned pastels and a rich black lowlight along with dark pewter accents icey blues and purples mix well with a mellow yellow and light rose pigments to create a well balanced palette
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Key Fabrics
Light meshes and tulle are paired with heavier cottons and latex to create garments with texture and weight. Along with accent materials like organza and coated PVC to give an intriguing and eye catching look.
Trims & Details Badges, pins and charms give Yami Kawaii pieces an extreme and over the top look as well as make a statement. Different and abnormal trims give the garments more texture while playing with the fun and dark sides of the Yami Kawaii culture
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Big bold ruffles are featured as a huge trend for the S/S 2020 season. As seen all over garments and used in eye catching ways; being placed on trousers or in layers across the chest ‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
ruffles
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Graphic Prints
Graphics are a big part of the Yami Kawaii culture and perfectly paired with pieces for the Spring and Summer like tees, skirts and even accessories
glossy
Glossy textures bring back a girly element to the garments creating an angelic and fresh look. Pale glossy colors especially on the face bring in more light and allow for darker and heavier printed garments. ‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Garment Board
Two dark but flirty garments made up of a combination of layering and ruffles & small silver pendants for a goth but feminine look.
vibrant pastel colors and light cotton materials make this dress airy and expressive, great for the warmer months.
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Garment Board Light pastel violets are mixed with futuristic silver faux leather. The combination of sweet and edgy creates a perfect Yami Kawaii look.
A dark look made out of a majority of latex and seafoam green cotton. It has many ruffles which make it visually appealing and various eyeball details that bring in the graphic trend of the season. ‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Garment Board bringing two trends together; the structured oversized blazer and a funky eye print creating and ‘eye’ catching piece. Matched with a bodysuit which features latex and lace up leg details
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Accessories Bold shoes to match the bold outfits; and a chunkier more weighted look to balance out the proportions. Also, featuring bold prints and colours.
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
a light dreamy bag pairs perfectly with a dark themed outfit; featuring classic Yami Kawaii details like pins and a syringe charm.
Accessories
bucket hats are the perfect accessory for warm weather and add and edgy and expressive vibe to any outfit especially when made of latex.
coloured chains and pastel details are a great pairing for a Yami Kawaii outfit and bring in even more vibrancy along with a more structured shape to compliment the garments.
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Muse: Kuua Oyasumi
-Artist & Influencer -From Japan
-Over 73k followers on Instagram
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
-Known for her extreme Yami Kawaii style
-girls anywhere from the ages of 15-35 -ones who love to express their inner feelings & want a way to do that with their clothing -any girl willing to experiment with different textures & shapes -possibly living in a big city where there are many different fashion styles
‘sick cute’ s/s 2020:fsm 404
Target Market