EXPLORA For travellers
who don’t like being tourists
This month’s
SPECIAL EDITION: The real Majorca
GO - Explore Sudan Oman Solomon Islands
Danger QUIZ WHAT’S YOUR LIMIT?
The camera Friend or Foe?
Destinations
Comoros Uzbekistan Ghana Guinea-Bissau El Salvador
at a Glance
The sky  is no longer the limit.
Adventure enter Your no.1 partner in Adventure Sports
4
Explora
EXPLORA Created and edited by Lisa Machado All content and images are, unless otherwise indicated, owned by or licensed to Lisa Machado. LP Content from Lonely Planet GO EXPLORE - Sudan; Exploring Sudan - by Stuart Butler. At a Glance: Comoros At a Glance: Uzbekistan At a Glance: Guinea-Bissau At a Glance: El Salvador At a Glance: Ghana Additional sources Solomon Islands www.visitsolomons.com http://www.refworld.org/docid/4fe30c975a.html http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk/destinations/australasia--pacific/solomon-islands/solomon-islands-malaria-map.aspx Reader’s Letter Catching the train in New Delhi - by Mariellen Ward at BreathDreamGo http://breathedreamgo.com/2012/09/taking-the-train-in-india-a-story/
Print Production richtblick GmbH, Frauenfeld - Switzerland
Eidesstattliche Erklärung ICH, LISA MACHADO versichere an Eides Statt durch meine eigenhändige Unterschrift, dass ich die vorliegende Arbeit selbstständig und ohne fremde Hilfe angefertigt habe. Alle Stellen, die wörtlich oder dem Sinn nach auf Publikationen oder Vorträgen anderer Autoren beruhen, sind als solche kenntlich gemacht. Ich versichere außerdem, dass ich keine andere als die angegebene Literatur verwendet habe. Diese Versicherung bezieht sich auch auf alle in der Arbeit enthaltenen Zeichnungen, Skizzen, bildlichen Darstellungen und dergleichen. Zürich, 10. Mai 2014
Lisa Machado
Explora
Behind the tourist coulisse Ever wonder what’s behind the blocked off area with access restricted? Did you ever feel disappointed to see a crowd of tourists in front of a place you thought no one knew about? Then you’ve bought the right magazine! Explora is a magazine for tourists – who don’t like being tourists. We focus on exactly that urge, to explore the unknown and to share destinations that require you to go that extra mile that makes it worth it. Consider this: if a place – whether it be a beach or an entire destination – is easy to get to, then everyone is probably going to be there. However if there are obstacles to get there that may require you to look beyond the obvious and put a little effort into your planning, it’s likely that when you actually get there it’s going to be absolutely amazing. And best of all, you’ll be alone there – or with fellow discoverers like you. I often ask myself when travelling, why do we end up seeing the same things? Did someone decide it in advance? While it’s somewhat obvious why people crowd under the Eiffel Tower, I’m not sure if we always consider our own motivation before visiting commonly known places. Should I go to the museum of Louvre in Paris because I “have to” while being in Paris? If I go to Australia but don’t visit the Sydney opera house, did I miss out on the Australian experience? I would like to think, no. Surprisingly I’ve found myself having the best and most genuine experiences that stick with you for life, when not planning them at all – or in places I hadn’t expected to have such a great time. More than anything, I like feeling unexpected when I go somewhere. I’m a visitor, and equal to my fascination with my new surroundings I would like the local people to be curious about me. It’s not a feeling I get when arriving at the other side of the world to find the hotel is having an October fest, the same programs on my hotel TV, my country’s restaurant around the corner – cause that’s all I’ll want to eat – and locals greeting me with awkwardly learned phrases from my country. I find this to be a puzzling experience. I’m still of the opinion, that I should be the one learning the local phrases to communicate with the local inhabitants, me being the visitor to their land. You almost get the feeling that by knowing where you’re from, they already know exactly how to greet and treat you. I like to break this pattern and find places where people are surprised that I’ve come for a holiday. Where I arrive and can use my learned local phrases and barely just get by. Turn a few heads with my unexpected presence and look forward to genuine encounters and conversations with locals who are as curious about me as I am about them. On the adventurous road there are also some additional considerations to take into account that can save you a lot of headache and possible disappointments, such as dangers that can be avoided for your own good. Not to mention, if you think you’re the kind of person who wants to travel like this but haven’t quite gathered the experience for yourself yet – then look no further. Explora will take you in, over and through explorative travel and all its attractions but also its considerations.
Lisa Machado, Editor
5
6
Explora
10-18 Destinations
32 Solomon Islands
48 The real Majorca
at a Glance
26 Sudan
40 Oman
Explora
Inside At a Glance 10 12 14 16 18
Comoros Uzbekistan Guinea-Bissau El Salvador Ghana
GO - EXPLORE 26 32 40
Sudan Solomon Islands Sultanate of Oman
Reportages 8 20 22
10 Essentials you do not want to forget Danger as a factor in adventure DANGER QUIZ - What’s your limit?
68
The Camera - Friend or Foe?
Special Edition 48
The real Majorca
Standards 4 5 70 71
Masthead Editorial I get the last word! Reader’s letter
7
8
Explora | Reportage: 10 Essentials
10
essentials you do not
want to
forget
1 2
GOT YOUR A real explorer needs an extra packing list for those easily forgotten and yet vital items to keep your adventure safe and happy.
ADAPTER So important and yet so easy to forget, a holiday can quickly turn into big frustration if you realise while in the middle of nowhere that there’s no way to charge your phone, download your awesome photographs or maybe just shave. International adapter belongs on top of the packing list.
PASSPORT WITH VALIDITY Of course you’re not going to forget your passport. But what can easily be forgotten is that for many entry visas your passport must be valid for at least another 6 months, sometimes a year. Would be pretty awkward to have to turn back at the arrival terminal.
3 4
EMERGENCY CONTACTS ON PAPER In today’s marvellous world of advanced technology we often forget that these awesome gadgets can be stolen from us, especially in poor countries where crime rate is high. If you then kept all your contacts and emergency number on said gadgets, you can suddenly feel very naked if these are taken away from you. Always keep the most important phone numbers on paper and memorize at least one phone number that you can call in case all else is lost.
MOSQUITO REPELLENT No matter what anyone says about mosquitos – they’re always there. Unless you’re travelling to Greenland, it’s always a good idea to keep mosquito repellent on you. While camping spontaneously in the wild can be a great part of your travel experience, it easily gets clouded by looking like you got the measles and fleas at once.
Reportage: 10 Essentials | Explora
9
PASSPORT? 5 6 7
APPROPRIATE CLOTHING Consider not just how warm it is where you’re going, but also the local customs and religion. If you know you’ll be travelling to a Muslim country there are particular considerations to take into account, especially for women. Even though a travel guide might not mention that you need to dress a certain way, it might be a good idea to adapt a little to blend in. As an explorer you’ll probably want to observe the local customs and go places off the main tourist track where you are more likely to encounter the local culture in its full version, and it’s important not to offend local traditions.
8
BOTTLED WATER Something many take for granted – water. You may find yourself without it though, especially if you’re exploring certain terrains in Africa. Markets can be closed or absent and the only hostel in the area didn’t get their water delivery cause the truck didn’t show up (happens). Try to – whenever possible – buying and replenishing at least one big bottle of water that you carry with you. Never take water for granted.
TRAVEL & MED. INSURANCE How boring. But an absolute lifesaver if things go wrong, especially the international medical insurance is something you shouldn’t cheap out on. Depending on what country you’re going to it may pay off to be insured against mishaps on the way. If you don’t care about losing your stuff or paying for cancelled flights, then you can skip the travel insurance.
9 10
MEDICINE SET & FIRST AID Getting sick or injured can become a much larger problem than it needs to be if the right facilities or amenities are not available. Except checking for the most common diseases in the area (which you should do) you should consider that you might need a kit of emergency treatment items and medication against common illnesses. Same goes for prescription medication, a doctor will in most countries prescribe you a drug if you know you are prone to having a condition, and show that you are travelling to a place where medical help is distant or not available. An example of such places could be camping in the wild, being out to sea for more than 5 days at a time or visiting a country where medical facilities are of very poor standard.
SWISS ARMY KNIFE A real explorer needs a real tool. Exploring beyond the traditional means that you might be on your own and have to do without certain comforts. Carrying a handy do-it-yourself tool is indispensable for anything from opening a bottle of wine to fixing a broken tent.
A GOOD BOOK OR MUSIC Waiting is a part of life, no matter where you are. Especially while travelling you end up waiting for just about everything and anything. Having something to read or listen to drastically reduces the dead time that inevitably will find you, particularly if you’re travelling alone.
10
Explora | Comoros
H
aphazardly scattered across the Indian Ocean, the mysterious, outrageous and enchanting Comoros islands are the kind of place you go to just drop off the planet for a while. Far removed from the clutter that comes with conventional paradises – sprawling hotels, neon discos – the Comoros are so remote even an international fugitive could hide out here. In particular, the island of Mohéli, boasting the sleepy town of Fomboni. Anjouan is the beautiful sister among the already good looking cluster of islands, it does paradise so well, it actually lives up to all the clichéd expectations any traveller could possibly muster – Palms, bananas and the scent of ylang-ylang and cloves borne on the breeze. Rich in Swahili culture, and devoutly Muslim, the charming inhabitants of Comoros come from a legendary stock of Arab traders, Persian sultans, African slaves and Portuguese pirates. The four developed islands offer everything from relaxing on white-sand beaches by turquoise seas to hiking through rainforests on the lookout for giant bats. Grande Comore, the largest of the islands, boasts the largest active volcano in the world, Mt Karthala, which last blew its lid in 2005, flattening villages. The aftermath, though has created a
spectacular desert landscape on the mountain, and walking and trekking here is particularly good. Nicknamed ‘Cloud Coup-Coup’ land because of their crazy politics, the three independent islands (the fourth, Mayotte, is still a part of France have experienced almost 20 coups since gaining independence in 1975! In fact, a Comorian president is lucky if there’s time for his official portrait to be taken before armed men are once again knocking on the door. In the last decade, however, the quarrelsome tiff-prone independent islands agreed to put their differences aside and fly under the joint banner of the Union des Comores. Holidaying in the Comoros isn’t for everyone; travel will kick your arse at times. But it teaches lessons in patience, humility and resilience. Everything moves mora mora (slowly slowly) and tourism facilities are far from plush. Islam, and all its traditions, is evident everywhere. Women are expected to show modesty and cover up, and alcohol is a no-no for both sexes. But if your idea of the perfect holiday is less about drinking rum punch in a skimpy bikini at a swank resort, and more about long, lazy days sipping tea and talking politics with the locals, then a safari in the exotic Comoros will probably be the kind of unpredictable, swashbuckling adventure you’ve been craving. LP
Como
oros
at a Glance
so remote even an international fugitive could hide out here
12
Explora | Uzbekistan
at a Glance
SHAH-I-ZINDA Shah-i-Zinda means “The Living King” and is a necropolis in the northeastern part of Samarkand. The cousin of prophet Muhammad was buried here and legends say he was beheaded for his faith.
Uzbe
13
Uzbekistan | Explora
ekistan If there was a
Hall of Fame for Central Asian cities, Uzbekistan would own the top-three entries
N
o country in Central Asia seems to have it so good, yet at the same time have it so bad, as Uzbekistan. The region’s cradle of culture for more than two millennia, it is the proud home to a spellbinding arsenal of architecture and artefacts, all deeply infused with the raw, fascinating history of the country. But as students of that history know, it’s also sprung a few bad apples over the years. Tyrants enamoured by the country’s physical bounty have run the territory we now call Uzbekistan since time immemorial.
“knife-twirling dervishes, serpentine desert caravans and architecture that blends with the sand” Concentrating on the good, if there was a Hall of Fame for Central Asian cities, Uzbekistan would own the top-three entries:
Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva. The names practically epitomize the region, conjuring up images of knife-twirling dervishes, serpentine desert caravans and architecture that blends with the sand. Seen in person, the Big Three do not disappoint (the occasional overzealous restorative effort notwithstanding). Alas, they sometimes overshadow the country’s other attractions, which include dazzling bazaars, ancient fortresses like the one at Nurata, and an impressive array of largely unsung natural attractions. But at least that means you’ll have the hiking and adventure-sport opportunities of Chimgan & around to yourself! All of this goes a long way to eclipse the bad memories evoked by names like Jenghiz Khan, Timur, Nasrullah Khan and Stalin. The country’s long-serving current leader, Islam Karimov, is no saint either. Despite it all, the Uzbek people remain good-spirited and genuinely hospitable – yet another prime attraction in this oddly endearing country. LP
14
Explora | Guinea-Bissau
Guinea Bissau
TRADITIONAL PINNACE The Pinnace is a small boat used by locals for transportation and fishing, mostly on the River Niger. Visitors can also take trips on these vessels.
at a Glance
long protected culture unlike any found in West Africa
L
ike most subSaharan nations, Guinea-Bissau is an arbitrary European construct, yet it possesses two qualities that make this small country stand out from its neighbours. First and foremost are the people themselves. You’ll almost never hear the disingenuous ‘bonjour, mon ami’ that signals the beginning of an unwelcome sales pitch. If you’re arriving from, say, Dakar, you’ll be relieved to find helpful gestures are almost always just that – expressions of kindness rather than a means to extract cash. Bissau’s relaxed feel, pastel-coloured buildings and nice cafés are worth a couple days of your time. The country’s really big draw? The remarkable Arquipélago dos Bijagós. These delta islands are lined with powdery, white-
sand beaches, washed by azure waters, and populated by a people whose matriarchal culture, long protected by hidden sandbanks and treacherous tides, is unlike any found in West Africa. The mainland, by contrast, provides a fine recapitulation of West Africa’s attractions, including mangrove-lined rivers, a gorgeous beach at Varela and rainforests in the south – home to elephants and chimpanzees. Always poor, the country’s economy and infrastructure were severely damaged by civil war in the late 1990s. Transport and communications remain trying, and hotels and food – especially in the capital – are no bargain. However, national reconciliation seems to have arrived with peaceful elections in 2005, and there’s cautious optimism about the future. LP
16
Explora | El Salvador
FORGOTTEN in Central America
E
l Salvador sneaks up on you: in lefty lounge bars in San Salvador, at sobering museums and war memorials, and along lush cloud-forest trails; it’s a place of remarkable warmth and intelligence, made all the more appealing for being so unexpected. Travellers tend to skip El Salvador, wooed by marquee destinations such as Guatemala and Costa Rica, and unnerved by stories of civil war and gang violence. But the war ended almost 20 years ago, and crime, while serious, is almost exclusively played out between rival gangs; tourists are virtually never involved. And though El Salvador has fewer protected areas than its neighbors, you get them practically to yourself – including pristine forests, active volcanoes and sparkling lakes. The only place
you might find a crowd is on Punta Roca, El Salvador’s most famous surfing spot – it happens to be one of the best right point breaks in the world, yet is a ghost town compared to lesser swells in Costa Rica and elsewhere. And when it comes to cities, none in Central America is smarter or cooler than San Salvador, with first-rate universities, museums and galleries, a vibrant bar and live-music scene, and an array of progressive NGOs, both local and international. LP
GENERAL BARRIOS Statue of the Captain General Gerardo Barrios in San Salvador.
at a Glance
El Salvador pristine forests, active volcanoes and sparkling lakes - all practically to yourself
ALONE IN PARADISE Unlike many of its neighbouring countries, El Salvador is often overlooked as a destination and is therefore relatively empty.
18
Explora | Ghana
Here, life is public
FREEDOM Compared to other countries in the region, Ghana is stable and prosperous, but this valuation is in part founded on hopes for the future.
19
Ghana | Explora
Ghana I
n Ghana life is public. People evacuate their homes and apartments every day to escape the stifling heat. And much like the patterned cloth worn by market women, the disparate parts and peoples somehow mix and weave together into a cohesive whole. Ghana is home to a number of diverse peoples and cultures, all finding ways to coexist in a rapidly modernising country. You’ll see men and women in traditional clothes text messaging friends and suited businessmen taking offerings to tribal chiefs. Ghana has no iconic natural calling card like Victoria Falls or Kilimanjaro,
at a Glance
but one look at a map reveals a geographic blessing: hundreds of kilometres of coast shared by beautiful beaches, like those at Busua & Dixcove, ruined European forts, such as Cape Coast Castle, the poignant reminders of the country’s importance as a way station for African slaves, and the battered shacks of lively fishing villages. Accra is the commercial and cultural motor of the country, while Kumasi is the traditional home of the Ashanti, and is famous for its crafts. In the Volta region to the east, where the geography was given a facelift by the Akosombo dam, you can still find substantial swathes of forest crawling up mountains along the Togo border. And finally the
North, which offers opportunities for wildlife viewing up close and personal, stretches across the horizon like an overcooked pancake to the Burkina Faso frontier. Compared to other countries in the region, Ghana is stable and prosperous, but this valuation is in part founded on hopes for the future. The country is often labelled ‘Africa for beginners’, and while you’ll likely be welcomed by the people in a hot, sweaty clinch, the same way the sun grabs hold of you the second after you step outside, getting around is by no means easy. LP
20
Explora | Reportage: Danger
Danger as a factor in adventure Danger is a relative thing, what to one person seems like pure madness is to another just a fun adventure. Without a doubt, some perception of danger is essential to experience the feeling of adventure. There is however a difference between perceived danger and real danger, where the latter can quickly turn into an unpleasant experience that only generates bad memories. One of the key functions of adventure tour organizers as well as sports operators is to control this danger to be only perceived – not real. We want to feel like we’re crossing limits and doing something out of the ordinary that carries a risk with it. For instance we might be on a tour where you walk on the edge of a steep cliff or rafting on a raging river, however we
don’t actually want to slip off the cliff edge nor fall into dangerous waters. Safety precautions and a healthy common sense will prevent perceived danger from becoming real, and to know your own limits is an essential part of this. Unless you’re taking part in a tour organized by professionals who guide you every step of the way, you should never cross your own limits where you feel uncomfortable and not in control. If you’re not in control, chances are that other forces will take over this control and make you into a victim. At the same time, we want to explore our limits and take a leap of faith every now and then. If you feel uncertain about your capabilities it’s always best to join some sort of a group where a trained professional is present.
Reportage: Danger | Explora
21
W H AT
ROLE DOES
DANGER
P L AY?
GREAT WHITE Shark diving in a cage is considered to be a special thrill with a high perception of danger.
22
Explora | Danger Quiz
DANGER QUIZ:
’
Take the Danger Quiz and find out what kind of traveller you are! What type of experience is suitable for you to give you a boost and yet not scare you senseless? Read each scenario and answer the following questions according to how you would most likely react in said situation. Add your score together at the end and see what risk risk category you end up in! Answer key can be found on page 71. Note: This quiz is by no means a serious evaluation nor should its results be used to undertake real life risk decisions.
You’re on a hiking trip with a group of friends in a foreign country, you decided to go without a guide. Suddenly you reach a steep drop off on your path and the only way to cross to the other side is to climb a short part of the rock with your hands and feet. It isn’t very difficult and your chances of success are good. How do you react to the suggestion? a) Out of the question, we could slip and fall down the drop off. Let’s turn back and find a different road b) I’m unsure. I’ll wait and see if one of my friends climbs it first and if they say it’s okay then I’ll do it too c) Hell yeah, what are we waiting for? d) I will figure out a way to secure us while crossing, with the help of team work and some equipment I brought
You’ve decided to conquer the ocean and take a surfing lesson for beginners at the beach. As you’re paddling out with your instructor, he explains that sometimes the paddling sound can attract sharks – however an actual attack is extremely unlikely and there is no reason to worry. What’s your response? a) I’m a little alarmed, I look around and ask if it’s really safe. If he assures me that there was never a shark attack in this area then I’ll continue with the lesson b) Whatever – I’ll be fine. And if not – what’s meant to be, will be c) I don’t like the sound of that, I was not aware of this when I joined the lesson. I would like to return to shore and have my money back if possible – better safe than sorry d) It’s fair of him to mention that, however I’m not too alarmed since he says I shouldn’t worry
Danger Quiz | Explora
?
#!
You joined a nice diving trip for the day and will be exploring what the reef has to offer. While looking at some reef fish you suddenly see that 2m long shark is swimming out in the blue, about 50m away from you. Your reaction: a) Swim in any direction away from the shark, end the dive and explain to the instructor that I have to get out of the water b) I take my underwater camera out and try to get a nice snapshot of it. I check my air pressure and dive computer to make sure I’m safe c) Wow, lucky me! I slowly swim in its direction to see if I can get a closer look d) Tug on the arm of my dive buddy and point to the shark. He/she is astonished and we carefully observe the shark and its movements You’re tenting with a group of friends in the woods and the weather is not so good. While you’re struggling to set up your tent, your tent pole breaks and the tent collapses like a punctured hot air balloon. What do you do? a) No big deal, I go into the woods and look for a sturdy branch that can hold it instead b) I ask my friends what I should do and if they have any suggestions how to fix it c) I suggest that we go back home. The weather is miserable anyway and now that one of the tents is broken there’s really no point to stay d) I check my backpack for anything to replace it, if I can’t find anything I ask my friends if they brought any spare parts
You joined a Canyoning tour and what you thought was going to be an easy waterfall adventure. It however turns into a real test of courage, with high altitudes and slippery paths. In the middle of the tour you’re faced with a 10m high jump into a mountain pool – you must jump with the others in order to follow the route. The jump is tricky and you have to pay attention not to slip when taking the leap out. What do you do? a) I show them how it’s done and am the first one to jump b) I consider the risk. I will probably not be the first one but if everyone else seem to manage then I have to as well c) Call a helicopter if you must – I’m out of here. I can’t believe I joined in the first place, I was told this would not be scary d) I’ll probably be scared, but if I can be guided and persuaded by the group that I’ll be fine then I’ll do my best and not look down
An adventure tour operator invites you to join a 3-day hiking and kayaking trip. That sounds like fun so you say yes and they hand you some paperwork to sign, including a risk release form that states you cannot press charges if you’re injured or die. Your reaction: a) I read the entire text and then sign the papers b) Is it normal to have to sign such a thing? It doesn’t sound very promising that I might die on the tour, maybe I should do a different tour c) That’s a standard form with all operators, I sign it without really reading it d) I ask the operator if it’s a standard thing to sign such a form and what it means. After receiving a proper explanation I sign it
Your family decided to go to a big amusement park for the day and everyone is excited. It’s full of attractions – thrilling roller coasters, family fun attractions, carnival games, and many food stands. You just arrived, what do you want to do? a) I think I’ll play some wheel of fortune and carnival games, see if I win something fun. Then I’ll try some of the food stands, later I might join my family on the flying swings or the tea cups b) I’d like to see what the park has to offer, I’ll make sure to get a map of the area so I know what’s where. Then I’ll head to whatever attraction I think seems most fun and try to get someone from my family to join me c) Must go to the biggest and fastest roller coaster in the park – now! d) I’ll ask my family what they prefer to start with and I join them
MEGA COASTER
23
24
Explora | Danger Quiz
***
One of your friends tells you about an Igloo tour he heard about, where a group of people go to the snowy mountains, build an igloo and stay in it overnight. The tour requires some special equipment and coping with very cold temperatures. Do you join?
It’s a hot day and you’re at an outdoor waterpark with a few friends. You go to a very high slide called “Inferno” with category “extreme” that partially involves a steep free fall. The slide seems safe and other brave people are queuing up next to it. Do you go down? a) Absolutely, I can hardly wait till my turn b) I’m not sure. I’ll let my friends go first and if I work up the courage until then, I’ll do it c) Unlikely. I’ll take the stairs down, no shame in that – I just came for the view d) Yes I’ll try it, I might be scared but it seems safe so I’ll fight my fears
a) I’ll go if my friend goes too b) Hell yeah, sounds cool c) I check first for the tour details and what equipment is required. If I feel capable of handling it and buying/borrowing the necessary items then I’ll sign up d) Maybe if my friend really insists, but otherwise no. Sounds a bit too extreme
You’re looking at a trip to West Africa, travelling through 2-3 of the countries near the coast. The area is unexplored and requires significant planning and precautions. You consider if it’s wise to go alone or not and how your trip would be planned out. Which of the options are you most likely to go for? a) I’ll book the first part of the trip with an agency and once I get a hang of how things work and meet some people, I’ll take the other half on my own. I’ll probably go alone since I have the most flexibility that way b) I’ll do some research and then book the flights myself, book a few hostels in advance but then take the rest as it comes. Travel like this needs an open mind and just going with the flow of Africa c) An organised group trip with a travel agency, all accommodation and details are planned in advance by the agency. I’ll rely the tour guide and will make sure to go with a partner, friend or someone I know d) I’ll co-plan the trip with a friend and we’ll probably join an organised trip since they know the best places to go
It’s a quiet day at the beach, you and a friend are relaxing in the sand. You notice a little stand on the beach that offers water sports and decide to get some action. Which of the water sports are you most likely to choose? a) b) c) d)
The banana boat Water skiing/Wakeboarding Surfing/Kite surfing Paragliding behind the boat
You’ve taken a boat trip for 3 days to see the Great Barrier Reef. At the end of the first day a storm starts pulling in and bad weather is soon turning the boat fiercely from side to side. Black skies and strong winds make it hard to stand or walk and several passengers are sea sick. The captain says it should pass until the next morning. What is most likely your state of mind? a) I’m okay, not enjoying it but I’ll manage. I take care that my things are secured and nothing breaks b) I’m worried and think we shouldn’t be out here c) Probably I’m one of the sea sick people d) I’m having an awesome time, I love the motion of the ocean You’re at a Go-Kart driving range with a few friends and you’ve paid to drive around a few laps. How do you drive? a) As fast as possible – the cars are so flat they can’t flip over and the area is surrounded by rubber tires, nothing can go wrong b) As fast as I can while still feeling like I’m fully in control c) As I would with any other car, safely and avoiding any obstacles and other cars d) I observe other drivers’ technique and try to follow their manoeuvrings
Quiz answer key on page 71.
Danger Quiz | Explora
Who are you? 13-20:
Safe Sally You like to explore and see new things, but that doesn’t mean it should be dangerous or risky. You’re perfectly fine with just watching along as your crazy friends do a bungee jump and don’t feel the need to expose yourself to any unnecessary risk. For you, the most suitable adventures probably lie within a nice and organised tour where you feel safe and don’t have to worry. Better safe than sorry – you set a good example of what you should do in certain situations and are a valuable contribution to a group of friends. There are many guided tours these days that reach the most remote points of the globe – as long as you have a little extra cash in your pocket to pay for a professional to guide you – the world is as open to you as to anyone else. Recommended destinations: Azores, India, Malaysia, Fiji, Greece, Japan, Sardinia, UAE, Singapore.
35-43: You’re a strong and independent spirit who isn’t afraid to take risks, you are however well aware of them. You’re always on top of things and try to foresee any possible consequences of your adventures. You like to be in control and check your facts before agreeing to join a trip. Travelling alone doesn’t bother you at all since you will meet people on the way. In the more free range travel you need your space and flexibility, while simultaneously not doing anything too crazy or hasty that might get you in trouble. The ideal travel scenario for you are tailor-made trips (by yourself or in a small group) with as much flexibility as possible, for instance open flight tickets and a rented vehicle that lets you get around on your own terms. Travel insurance is likely a good suggestion for you if you don’t already have one. Recommended destinations: Menorca, Peru, USA, South Africa, Australia, China, Oman, Guatemala.
21-34:
Tag-along Tom You rarely like to do things on your own and generally feel more comfortable with company around you. When vacationing you most likely take a friend, partner, or family member along with you without even realising it, and doing things together brings you much joy. You’re brave and capable, but don’t need to be the centre of attention. You’ll happily let someone else go ahead of you before doing anything challenging and enjoy being in a group. Group-based trips are likely to suit you best, whether you’re bringing all your friends or even venturing out alone – in a travel group you’re never alone. If you can form a team of friends, this is also a good option to go out on your own and tailor your journey together with your friends – for example by renting a car. Recommended destinations: USA, Botswana, Spain, Scandinavia, Maldives, Thailand, Costa Rica, Canada.
44-52: You’re unstoppable, practically nothing scares you and you fearlessly jump in head-first. When a group is asked to do something scary or challenging and no one wants to go first – you’re the one who shows them how it’s done. Danger fascinates you and you like to push it until the limit, you go with the flow and don’t tend to over-thinking things. You’re a joy to be around and many people are awed and inspired by your courage. You find yourself at home with other travellers who seek the ultimate adventure and going off road and beyond the traditional limit is a way of life for you. To avoid trouble - pay attention to travel warnings if you’re going to countries with a turbulent political situation. You follow your own path and with your experience and courage you can reach points much further than the eye sees. Recommended destinations: Burma, Solomon Islands, West Africa, Mozambique, Ecuador, former USSR. States, Iceland, Suriname, Qatar.
25
26
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Sudan
rarebeauty
The
of
Sudan W
ake at the break of day under the golden pyramids of god-like kings of old; traverse a searing desert to the place where two Niles become one and watch a million blood red fish swarm through gardens of coral. Whichever way you look at it, there’s just no denying that among Sudan’s sweeping hills of sand lie treasures the rest of the world are only just beginning to understand. Until July 2011 Sudan was the biggest country in Africa, but now, with South Sudan having broken
away to form a new nation, maps of Africa are being redrawn. This redefining of national boundaries is making for huge changes, geographically, politically, financially and culturally, for the Sudanese. But for a traveller some things never change; Sudanese hospitality remains second to none, and for most people, travelling through Sudan is such an eye-opening and rewarding experience that many come away saying that Sudan was their favourite country in Africa.
LP
GO - EXPLORE: Sudan | Explora
27
COLORFUL PEOPLE Sudanese women are considered to be among the most beautiful women in the world. They however very rarely agree to be photographed due to their culture. Unlike many other Muslim countries, the women’s Toob (clothing) is very colorful and bright.
28
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Sudan
A country
torn
GO - EXPLORE: Sudan | Explora
into pieces
POLITICAL DIFFICULTIES The political situation in Sudan is currently turbulent and travel restrictions apply in certain parts of the country, mostly in the South. The areas around Port Sudan and its coast are however relatively calm, where visitors can enjoy an adventure.
29
30
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Sudan
Exploring Sudan: a desert journey by STUART BUTLER (Lonely Planet) • 21 February 2014
T
o the wider world the North African nation of Sudan is often seen as a place of untold horror. A burning and featureless desert where war, genocide and misery are the norm. And although some aspects of this image are grounded in truth, for the most part the popular impression couldn’t be more off the mark. Very few travellers make it to Sudan, but those who do normally come away raving about the wealth of ancient temples, monuments and tombs, which includes more pyramids than Egypt itself. They’re so untouched by other visitors that you frequently have to brush away desert sands in order to get a better look at temple frescoes, painted back in a time when this part of the Sahara was still green savannah. But it’s not just the utter romance of the archaeological sites that captivates. Sudan has some of the world’s best diving along its largely unexplored Red Sea coast, apricot-coloured dunes pierced by the life-giving Nile and, in the south and west, green forested mountains. It’s not just the scenery that you’ll recall long after a visit, but the people, who make up a real ethnic jigsaw puzzle and are some of the friendliest and most welcoming you
can ever hope to meet. The wonderfully evocative Egyptian temple of Soleb is one of the historical highlights of north Sudan. The temple was built in the 14th century BC by Amenhotep III, the same Pharaoh who gave us the famous temples of Luxor in Egypt, and the design and carvings are similar. The delightfully dilapidated pyramids of Nuri, near Karima, are set among a stormy sea of orange sand. They are some of the most romantic pyramids in Sudan. Dating from around the 7th century BC these are both the oldest and largest pyramids in the country. There were 300 camels in this group and it takes between one and two months to get them from Darfur to Egypt. These herders are very tough men and told me that they prefer to make the trek in summer because it’s ‘too cold’ in winter (it was about 30 degrees Celsius on the winter’s day I took this photo). The seemingly insignificant town of Kerma may have been largely left behind by the rest of the world today, but that wasn’t always the case. This is one of the oldest inhabited towns in Africa and a place of immense historical importance. At the base of the mountain are some well-preserved pyramids (pictured), the Temple of Amun and the fresco-
decorated Temple of Mut dedicated to the Egyptian sky goddess. Naga consists of a large and well preserved temple of Amun dating from the 1st century (pictured) and the Lion Temple dedicated to the lion-headed god Apedemak. The exact purpose of the site remains unclear as it’s located in an area that has never really been inhabited. There are two main groups of pyramids at Begrawiya, the most famous pyramids in Sudan, separated by several hundred metres of sandy desert. In total there are about 100 pyramids – or remains of pyramids. The reason many of the pyramids are missing their tops is thanks to a 19th Century Italian ‘archaeologist’ who thought treasure might be contained within. Rather than going about the laborious task of opening them properly he merely chopped the tops off and, somewhat to the surprise of many, he did indeed find treasure! Foreign tourists are very rare in Sudan but a handful of domestic tourists come from Khartoum at the weekends to enjoy camel rides around the Begrawiya Pyramids.
SB/LP
!
Travel Alert - please verify before travelling.
GO - EXPLORE: Sudan | Explora
31
Very few travellers make it to Sudan, but those who do normally rave about the untouched temples and pyramids
Photos by STUART BUTLER
32
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands
GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands | Explora
Solomon Islands
33
34
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands
Solomon Islands Unhurried, undeveloped, untouched and unspoiled
E
ast of Papua New Guinea and north east of Australia lays a forgotten island group and a country: the Solomon Islands. Only discovered by Europeans in the 16th Century, it’s still unknown to a large part of the world. It’s a less known south pacific destination that has a controversial history and only recently started attracting tourism. It’s still a pristine and untouched paradise in comparison to Fiji, there are however considerations to make before jumping on a plane to this diamond in the rough. 900 ISLANDS OF UNSPOILED PARADISE Made independent from Great Britain in 1978, the country stretches over a vast archipelago of 922 islands and inhabits just over half a million people that speak 70 different languages. With an average temperature of 27 degrees and similar water temperatures, it’s the perfect destination for a get away at the beach. The area is divided into
9 provinces, all offering a large diversity in culture, nature and adventure. Solomons’ today well-developed webpage www.visitsolomons.com offers a very good guide to the magnificent islands.
as well, if you’re single you put the flower behind your left ear – if married or in a relationship, behind your right. The flower in other words serves multiple purposes – it’s an accessory as well as a ring on the finger.
LIVING LIKE HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO
THE FRIGHTENING BETELNUT
Solomon Islands is a real trip back in time, as you cross the water between the islands on one of the very few motorized boats, you see the local population paddling past you in their traditional wooden canoes and looking curiously at your bright skin. Away from the capital Honiara, life goes by as it did hundreds of years ago with only a few hints of modern technology. Garbage is burned daily in piles outside of the houses and paved roads are rare. FLOWER BEHIND YOUR EAR The south pacific has a local custom of putting a flower behind women’s ears which always looks very colorful and happy. But there’s a hidden meaning to it
Something rather frightening that you’ll notice along the streets in the Solomons, is bright red bloodlooking spit everywhere. If you weren’t informed in advanced you would probably think that are daily street fights carried out here, but the red liquid seen is actually from a local nut called Betelnut, the locals chew this for its stimulant effect and medicinal properties. It also colors the mouth gums violently red and makes the person who chews it look like they’ve just come out of a fist fight. To a visitor it must seem impolite to spit this everywhere but it seems to belong to the local way of life. Nonetheless there are sometimes signs explicitly forbidding the spitting of this nut on certain premises.
UNTOUCHED BEAUTY Solomon Islands are known for their pristine and untouched waters, attracting foremost divers but also explorers and those who seek unexplored destinations.
36
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands
A TURBULENT PAST The Solomons have gone through several difficult periods of invasion, since the first conquest of the Spanish in the 16th Century it was divided into colonies between mainly Britain and Germany. After a longer rule by Britain and heavy turbulence during the Second World War they were declared independent in 1978, however English remains an official language. A large battle took place in the Guadalcanal between 1942 and 1943 where the Allied Forces fought the Empire of Japan. As a result there is a large amount of ships and plane wrecks lying at the bottom of the sound, giving it the convenient nickname “Iron Bottom Sound”; more about this in the diving section.
Around the millennium shift a minor civil war was caused by ethnic tensions between local forces. Australian and Pacific Island police troops arrived on a mission in 2003 to establish peace and laws in the country, however its efforts have only been moderately successful. Solomon Islands is declared as “an unformed state: a state that never consolidated even after decades of independence” (Wikipedia).
BEHIND RESORTS... ...awaits a very simple and poor reality for many Solomoners. The police station in Tulagi is rather different than what might be expected, so is listing their duties per bullet points.
(LACK OF) INFRASTRUCTURE The most noticeable effect of the countries unformed state is its lack of infrastructure – buildings, roads, medical care, and schooling are largely neglected. While you’ll find top notch luxury resorts built on remote islands (by foreign
investors), much of the local population lives in unspeakable conditions. This is especially the case around the capital Honiara, out on the islands people simply adapt to a very simple way of life, as their ancestors did for centuries. In a capital with the needs of modern structure however, it’s
GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands | Explora
noticeable that it lacks such. Medical care and hospitals are scarce, and should you need to visit one it’s silently said you should avoid it if possible due to lack of supplies and risk of infection. Pharmacies are reduced to dispensaries, where the most needed/ available drugs are given straight over the counter in zip-lock bags without medical examination or a prescription. If you’re staying anywhere outside of a foreign resort, beware that you might encounter extremely basic conditions and most of all – a lot of insects and large spiders. Carry an abundant medical kit and mosquito repellant with you, should you need medical care try seeking out a hotel.
TRAFFICKING AND ABUSE ISSUES A less pretty side of the Solomons is unfortunately the extensive abuse of women and children. It may be something you won’t see while visiting, but it’s noteworthy. In 2009 the Secretariat of the Pacific Community published an extensive study on family health and safety, and discovered that two out of three women aged between 15 and 49 years have been abused, and the stories about children being abused are unspeakable. The problem has gone largely unnoticed due to denial and suppression by society, therefore efforts to change and improve the situation are still fairly new. Due to its poverty and this abuse
problem, the Solomons were long known as a destination of human trafficking and child prostitution. A somewhat creepy large poster decorates the arrival hall of Honiara Airport, stating “Welcome to the happy Isles - sexual abuse and exploitation of children is prohibited”. The efforts to improve the conditions continue and are organized under an international movement called RAMSI – “help a friend”, started in 2003 and led by Australia. MALARIA Just when you thought you were done with preparations, there is one additional – and important – aspect that needs to be taken into consideration. The Solomons are
37
highly infested with malaria and significant prevention measures should be taken to avoid mosquitos. Malaria medication must be carried at all times or taken as a preventive measure. As the map shows, the entire area is considered high risk. Map of malaria risk zones. (Fit For Travel)
38
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands
DIVING
like nowhere else in the world
EXTREME DIVING One of the best things about the Solomon Islands is its spectacular and relatively unexplored ocean bottom. Crystal clear waters, a very diverse geographic underwater landscape, and a large biodiversity make this an exciting option for dive enthusiasts that like to explore. While being right around the corner for Australian residents, Europeans are very rare to find due to the vast distance and time difference. The biggest attraction is the Iron Bottom Sound between the Guadalcanal and Tulagi that holds a large amount of sunken ships and plane wrecks to explore. The most notorious of them is likely to be
the USS. Aaron Ward, a large war ship that sank in 1943 and lies under 70 meters of water. A large part of the attraction is that few people have dived in the area which makes the wrecks more authentic and preserved. An extreme side to this diving – except the massive war ship wrecks – is that they lie deeper than usual recreational diving allows, which means you need to be highly trained and qualified to perform the dives. Average dive depth in the Sound is between 50 and 70 meters, recreational diving limits state 40 meters. Special additional risk release forms have to be signed in advance and the dive sites generally attract mostly
long-term divers, professionals and technical divers that dive with other mixtures than air. Due to the extreme depths, dives require a long decompression that is performed by hanging on multiple levels of metal bars that are lowered from the dive boat into the water. Average decompression time lasts between 30 min and over an hour, therefore keeping sufficient air supply for the entire dive excludes any divers that are not very advanced. The positive side is that it’s an unforgettable and incomparable experience with a lot of freedom to explore, fantastic ocean life, and simply mesmerizingly clear waters.
GO - EXPLORE: Solomon Islands | Explora
39
Diving Iron Bottom Sound has to be every wreck diving entousiast’s greatest dream
EXTREME DEPTHS For those who are highly experienced and qualified, the waters of Solomon Islands offer some extreme wreck dives in depths far beyond recreational limits.
ابحرم Marhaban - Welcome
OMANI TRADITION Omani roots are deeply embedded in the religion of Islam, with countless mosques present even in the smallest and most remote locations. In the picture above: The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat.
GO - EXPLORE: Oman | Explora
to Sultanate of
T
OMAN
ucked in between Saudi Arabia and Yemen, deep in the Middle East lies the new destination of Oman. Still considered undiscovered and in the baby phase of tourism development, it offers an adventurous and yet safe alternative to discover the Middle East. A MARVELLOUS SECRET Sultanate of Oman - named as it’s entirely ruled by the Sultan Qaboos is a brand new destination in a steep upswing of economic growth, rapidly establishing itself on the map as a desirable destination to visit. As recently as five years ago, practically no one heard of visiting the country or might even wonder where on the map it is. It’s still a marvellous secret and unshaped piece of land, perfect for explorers who aren’t afraid of a challenge. While the country is safe to explore by own vehicle, infrastructure is still in development and navigating can be challenging and confusing. But if making a few U-turns and asking for directions doesn’t bother you then you’ve come to the right place.
More and more travel agencies offer tailored travel packages to Oman, including camping in the desert and visiting some of the lands most intriguing locations. Exploring the land entirely on your own without any advice of where to go is not yet advisable as the country lacks fundamental internet guides and an overview of what there is to see. But it’s coming. Some of the most famous spots to visit - for example the Sultan Qaboos Grand
Mosque in Muscat - was only finished in 2012, and another Mosque of similar size and grandeur is still currently being constructed in the old capital of Nizwa. All over the land you will see constructions - everything from hotels to houses and official buildings - the country is truly experiencing a construction boom. If you want to see the undiscovered Sultanate of Oman, now is the time to go - in another 5-10 years it’s likely to become the new “Thailand” of the Middle East.
41
In the heat
of the
Desert
awaits an off-road adventure WAHIBA DESERT One of the most popular areas for desert camping is in Wahiba Sands in the east of Oman.
GO - EXPLORE: Oman | Explora
CAMPING IN THE DESERT One of the most popular adventures in Oman is to camp one night out in the desert. With interest growing more rapidly than camp space available, desert camps are often fully booked and new ones pop up like mushrooms for the past 2 years. In modest yet luxurious style, large tent camps are built up in the middle of desert sand dunes, accommodating around 60 people per night and meanwhile offering a full catering and entertainment program. You can either drive your own 4x4 or be taken by an experienced driver (the latter is recommended) over madly steep sand hills that require advanced driving skills and a calm mind. As you shoot over and down the sandy terrain, the remaining passengers are most likely bouncing around the car like popcorn in a kettle. After driving for nearly an hour, an assembly of houses emerges in a valley between the dunes - just in time for sunset. Camels are stationed at most camps, ready and available for a ride up the hill to watch the sun set in bright orange. Keep in mind; these rides are rarely included in the paid package. After an evening meal by nothing but vintage oil lamps to illuminate your existence, a hundred million stars slowly appear in the sky and truly give way to the feeling of “Thousand and one nights”. If it’s too hot to sleep you might as well stay outside in the light breeze and watch the stars until the first sun rays spill over the sand dunes in the east.
43
COUNTLESS MOSQUES A man is praying at the altar of the newly constructed Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat.
NIZWA The old capital of Oman offers many historic buildings and attractions to see.
THE SOUK An Omani man is making incense at a market place (Souk) in Muscat.
46
Explora | GO - EXPLORE: Oman
THE OMANI PEOPLE Alike several of its neighbours, Oman’s culture is bound to Islam and traditional Arabic values. English is very established in the country due to a long history with Great Britain, therefore most road signs, shop names and menus are also written out in English. The Omani people tend to be rather reserved, but friendly. The overexcited greeting “hello my friend” that you might get at more established tourist destinations, is completely absent here. You get greeted with a respectful handshake something that is very important to the Omani people (mostly in male meetings). Men wear the traditional dishdasha - a white dress that is mostly custom-made. Women wear traditional Abayas (black veil clothing) but tend to leave their faces visible. Oman is said to be one of the most beneficiary countries for women in terms of freedom in clothing and lifestyle. A woman can for example choose to work even when she has children. Family is the most important thing to an Omani, most of all the mother.
OMANI CLOTHING Men wear almost exclusively the white dress, referred to as a dishdasha.
GO - EXPLORE: Oman | Explora
WHAT IS A WADI?
WATER IN THE DESERT Wadis are so called gorges where sometimes water enter and you can take a swim.
If you look at an Omani map or drive through any parts of the country, you are likely to encounter the word “Wadi� many times. So what does it mean? Wadi is explained by the locals, to be a sort of valley or gorge between two rocks, cliffs or mountains that forms a basin. Sometimes this valley can be filled with water, which turns it into a green marvel of paradise that you can often swim in. Wadis are considered attractions that you can visit, however some are more spectacular than others. Wadis where you can encounter crystal clear emerald water like in the picture on the left include Wadi Shaab and Wadi Bani Khalid. Visited for years by locals and part of a public area, women need to adapt their swim wear to local, more conservative customs; meaning covering arms and legs. In Wadis you can also find Oases, suddenly emerging out of a desert landscape appears an area of lush green lawns and palm trees growing over one another. Beautiful contrasts of the desert lands of Oman.
47
The real Majorca | Explora
The real Majorca “visited by many, seen by few”
T
he island of Majorca: visited by many but only actually seen by few. What is known to many as a charter holiday inferno, crowded with young people at discos or families in all-inclusive hotels, is actually a breathtaking island of ecological splendor and rich culture. While it’s perfectly good to stay in the more established tourist areas, there is also a whole other side for the keen traveler who wishes to have a more differentiated experience. Here you’ll find a few out of many spots & activities that this endlessly interesting island has to offer.
49
50
Explora | The real Majorca
THE RENTAL CAR To explore the essence of Majorca, no matter which part of the island, a car is a practical necessity. Buses and trains may reach even the most remote points, but are slow and only leave a few times a day which restricts the ability to explore. For a more relaxed and differentiated experience, try visiting during the low season (Oct-Apr) where you’ll have much more space to yourself as well as better prices. Driving in Majorca may need some hard nerves but if you don’t mind a little Spanish traffic and bumpy roads it pays off immensely. As soon as you’re off the large roads you’ll wonder how you ever considered not renting a car. The landscape swallows
you whole as you pass through fields of olive groves and almond trees, drive along windy mountain roads and try not to get distracted by the stunning views of the sparkling sea. THE UNCOMPROMISED BEAUTY OF THE NORTH Little can be compared to the breathtaking views from the mountain that stretches over the north of the island, landscape comprised of steep enormous cliffs that dip into the navy blue sea, covered with green and lush vegetation. Driving towards Formentor on the very north tip you will be forced to stop along the way to take in the view of the curving mountain that snakes itself into the sea and marks the north edge of Majorca. ▶
EXPLORE FREELY Majorca’s landscape and infrastructure is built for cars and mopeds, many roads leading to the best spots are too narrow for buses and large vehicles to come through.
The real Majorca | Explora
“the key to a differentiated experience - is the rental car�
51
Jump
in...
The real Majorca | Explora CRYSTAL PARADISE Little bays on the north side offer pristine and crystal clear waters where the adventurous can jump in, or just snorkel around the underwater marvel that the surrounds the area. Here: Cala San Vicenç on a sunny and calm day in July.
“The general rule is: the smaller and windier the road - the better the destination at the end” If you want to avoid the larger tourist crowds going there, you may find very rewarding alternatives nearby on the west side, such as Cala sant Vicenç or Cala Boquer. A visit to the lighthouse at Cap Formentor is however a must, this breathtaking view will fill you with peace, serenity, and calm. The general rule in Majorca is: the smaller and windier the road is, the better the destination at the end of it tends to be. If you dare to follow one of the dusty off-road paths while driving towards Formentor, you might find yourself arriving at
the sparkling waters of Cala en Gossalba or at the hide-away bay of Cala Figuera. You might also end up at a dead-end edge of a cliff plummeting into the sea, but sometimes that’s part of the adventure. At a typical Majorcan chiringuito beach bar you can have fresh sea food caught in the bay nearby, served crisply fried with lemon, and a cold beer served in an iced glass. Just what you need to convert the summertime beads of sweat on your forehead into a wide smile.
53
54
Explora | The real Majorca
EXPLORE
ON FOOT
ANCIENT PILGRIM TRAILS OVER SANT ELM Windy and bumpy roads leading southwest from Palma will take you to the secluded little town of Sant Elm, entirely curled around the open and facing the island Sa Dragonera. Here it’s almost impossible not to find a great apartment spot, many private owners offer everything from entire villas to small apartments overlooking the sea. Let some Café del Mar music play from the speakers while watching the sunset over the sea and you’ll think you just died and went to heaven. For hikers and explorer there’s a trail of particular interest that follows an old pilgrim to ancient
monastery ruins as well as a lookout tower called Cala en Basset. Starting the trail by following the coast line, the mixture of rugged rocky terrain and the smell of thousands of pine trees is truly intoxicating. With nothing more than a few rock piles created by other hikers to guide you, the trails feel genuine and unexplored. Depending on the season you may very well find yourself alone with the pine trees, during peak hiking seasons (spring and fall) you might encounter a few fellow hikers. Nonetheless there is nothing crowded or commercial about this experience. The last places to park a car in the area end well before you arrive to your first view point, so there is no other way to reach the
ruins but on foot. A few abandoned houses build in traditional Majorcan style appear a bit ghostly as if out of nowhere during the trails and give trigger your curiosity with its mystical appearance. The view when arriving at the ruins of the look-out tower at Cala en Basset is a mind-blowing experience that no words can justly describe. The ancient tower may be worn down but is still standing tall and proud. To get to the highest viewpoint - the climax of this trail - you’ll need to climb up a narrow broken ladder and squeeze into the leftover of an old staircase, but the effort will soon prove well worthwhile.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Hiking trails are generally marked out by other hikers, often as stone piles or even arrows made out of stones. The lack of established paths just adds to the adventure and allows you to really connect with the nature.
“like sitting on the edge of the world, with not a soul in sight but yourself�
At the top of the tower stairs awaits the most stunning view over the sea and the east mountainside leading to the north. It’s like sitting on the edge of the world, with not a soul in sight but yourself. An interesting historical fact is that the tower was built as a guard tower in the late
16th century to warn about inbound pirate attacks. Thanks to the island Sa Dragonera being a nature reserve, the entire area around it is well preserved and free from commercial fishing as well as excessive construction.
58
Explora | The real Majorca
STAGGERING TRAMUNTANA MOUNTAINS
H
ere you can forget the Majorca you’ve seen in the tourist brochure. You might even wonder if you’re on the right island, as both the vegetation and temperature change considerably the further into the mountains you get. Depending on the season you might even find leftover snow patches lying around the higher parts of these impressive mountains.
For an island as small as Majorca it’s rather surprising to find such biodiversity – from pristine long beaches and flat dry areas to staggering lush mountains over 1000 metres high. As you head west, the mountain range seems to come out of nowhere and swallows you up all the way until the north peak of Cap Formentor. If you had a good seat on the plane you might have seen them when flying in, otherwise it will be a pleasant surprise. Windy roads will slowly take you up towards Tramuntana’s rocky terrain and staggering heights. If you’re a hiker this is definitely the right place to be, special hiking books will map out the trails in the area
(as best possible) but it’s still considered fairly unexplored and you might only have stone piles as your guides if you venture out alone. Plan your supplies well in advance, these areas are not accommodated with a multitude of rest stops or restaurants and if you plan to head out on foot you should definitely bring food and water. While there are bus tours in this area, the flexibility of exploring the mountains with your own vehicle is a clear winner for anyone with an adventurous spirit. That said, Majorca still offers an extensive amount of travel solutions if you’re open and willing to inform yourself about what the island has to offer.
60
Explora | The real Majorca
Nostalgic
The real Majorca | Explora
61
WOODEN TRAIN TO SÓLLER In case you don’t plan on renting a car, no reason to fret. An experience that should absolutely not go missed is the old-time train from central Palma to the mountain village Soller. Imagine an old wooden nostalgic train taking you over the dazzling views of the mountains and then riding into the Soller village so closely that you can wave to people having their coffee at a café. While the train is heavily populated by tourists in the summer months, the mid and low seasons let you enjoy this experience in a very personal way. As the train moves through the city of Palma, traffic lights stop
the cars and buses and you find yourself looking into shop windows and down onto the stationary cars that have been held back to give priority to the train. Next the train trundles through a gap in a farmer’s field and heads slowly up the mountains to Soller. Magnificent views and fantastic scenery are just two things you’ll experience during this magical journey on an old steam train. Soller is a sleepy little village tucked into the mountains, and has a lot of charm. Often you’ll see bicyclists struggling up these mountain ranges and the area is also very popular with hikers. The port of Soller is another fabulous
historical experience, the train passes through narrow streets of Soller then runs through what seems like back gardens of local houses and then down to the port. Since the train is windowless you can enjoy the welcoming fresh breeze. In the port there are plenty of cafes and little restaurants where you can waste time and tickle your taste buds with the appetizing local cuisine. This is the place to eat if you like fish and sea food, plenty of places offer everything fresh from the sea. Of course there is also a little beach in the center of the port in case the sweat trickles down your forehead.
BEYOND THE MOUNTAINS The sleepy village of Sóller and its port is worth a visit in spite of being a more established tourist destination. Driving there is as much fun as taking the vintage wooden train from Palma to Port de Sóller.
62
Explora | The real Majorca
ARTISTS’ HIDE-OUT
DEEP IN THE MOUNTAINS DEIÁ Geographically separated from the rest of the island, Deiá is a tiny village surrounded by the great Tramuntana mountain range in the west. In splendid isolation and silent tranquility it appeals to visitors all over the world. Deiá is utterly unique – steep cliffs
and rugged beauty give way to secretive crescent-shaped coves and a sapphire-blue Mediterranean Sea. The village also is contrastingly green and lush in comparison to other Mediterranean towns, providing a perfect environment for palm trees, sycamores, cypresses and orange trees. The village is impossibly picturesque and its narrow alleys of stone houses curl
down a lush valley to a shingle beach where the water is clear and warm. Deiá is a real breath of fresh air that is sure to strike your heart. Following a narrow and steep gravel path you might find your way down to Cala Deiá – the tiny stone beach of the village which offers impressive large rock formations and interesting drop offs for divers and snorkelers. At the well-known
The real Majorca | Explora
63
GOOD TO KNOW
“Deiá
is the village that time forgot”
beach restaurant Ca’s Patro March you can enjoy fresh sea food and other local specialties while sitting on a balcony of hand-made carpentry right over the sea, whether it’s to catch a bite between swims or for a nice evening meal.
CALA DEIÁ Very hidden and tricky to access is the local creek of Deiá, a gorgeous spot to snorkel, swim or enjoy the fresh local specialities at the beach restaurant.
Deiá has long been a place of great literary history, with numerous European poets and novelists settling in the village since the 1920s, the most famous of which is probably the Englishman Robert Graves. Other artists and prominent residents include: • Frédéric Chopin • Michael Douglas • Claudia Schiffer • Andrew LloydWebber The town has inspired many artists to write famous novels or compose music in this paradise place and in the neighboring village of Valldemossa.
The real Majorca | Explora
LIVE AMONG
THE LOCALS “enjoy for a moment being an unexpected visitor” Majorca is so much more than just beaches and the sea; it’s an island full of rich culture and history, much of it clustered in the center of the island. Here you can find many traditional villages that seem unaffected by modern development and have a quiet calm that will soothe your soul. A new type of tourism that’s becoming increasingly popular on the island is agritourism or commonly called - rural tourism, where staying at a traditionally built Majorcan Finca (villa) becomes an experience you’ll never forget. Imagine a rustic and traditional house built
among olive groves and lush hills of pine trees where you can stay among locals, without a trace of what you find at home. One particular place where you can find this is in the tiny village of Esporles on the southwest side, near the base of the Tramuntana Mountains. Here lies a sleepy traditional village with daily markets that provide the inhabitants with their food and clothing, markets that are not just there for show – but serve as an actual way of life. Large supermarkets and shopping malls have nothing to seek here. In the tiny streets
in the village you will do well with learning a few Spanish phrases to get by, just enjoying for a moment being an unexpected visitor. With the many traditional street festivals that are hosted locally you might find yourself suddenly surrounded by locals dancing in the street with colorful outfits and festive decorations. Let yourself be immersed in another culture and taken away by the music, flavor and rhythm of the island. For those who seek a genuine experience that reflects the local traditions, this is highly recommended.
65
local THE REAL MAJORCAN LIFE Other locations to enjoy rural tourism and the real Majorcan life are Llucmajor and Campos on the south-east side, or Alaró by the mountains in the north. Llucmajor will seem fully unprepared for visitors and life goes by as it did decades ago without modern
structures or shiny facades. While the landscape is more flat in this area, the ocean is close and you’ll find refreshing relief in the uncrowded bay of Cala Pi or along the long white beach of Sant Jordi.
“Life goes by as it did centuries ago”
The mountain village of Alaró on the other hand offers a great cultural experience with not only a beautiful view but also a handful of historic places to visit. The name Alaró comes from the Arabic language and has its origins in the Muslim farmhouses of Oloron. The documented history begins in the thirteenth century, during the
reconquest of Majorca, with its Castillo de Alaró being the center of this. The Castillo de Alaro was built by Christian inhabitants to ward off invasions from pirates (Wikipedia) and is now a well-established point of interest for excursions. The town is accessible both by bus and car.
The real Majorca | Explora
flavors LOCAL CUISINE If you want to have a real home cooked Spanish Paella, make sure to choose a place where the locals are seen dining as well. Many places unfortunately exploit the traditional dish and don’t prepare it with the needed dedication, fresh ingredients and love that good Paella needs. Instead
of asking a local where you can find good Paella ask him where he goes for his Paella! An important part of Majorcan life is to buy your food supplies fresh, if possible from local markets. You’ll find that even in a larger village there are daily or semidaily markets with stands offering everything from fresh fruit and vegetables
“If you want a real home cooked paella - ask a local guy where he likes to eat his” to giant legs of ham, referred to in Spanish as “Jamón serrano”. This ham is used foremost to make the traditional Majorcan
snack or lunch - “Pa amb oli” which means bread with oil. A special local bread type is rubbed in olive oil, fresh garlic and tomato and then served with Jamón serrano and sometimes local cheese called Manchego. A plate of olives will probably arrive without you having to ask and a cool local beer will put a smile on anyone’s face.
67
68
Explora | Reportage: The camera
THE CAMERA:
Friend
or
Unless you make your living as a photographer
Foe?
you don’t need to bend backwards to take the perfect picture of the Vatican in the sunset
K
eeping the memory alive – ah yes – the very important holiday photos we all take. Maybe you’re even a bit of a hobby photographer and like to get a nice camera setting for your picturesque sunset or closeup macro of a grasshopper. Something that we however don’t realise is that while we’re so focused on capturing the perfect moment – it passes us by in real life.
The camera is your friend Being able to capture and eternalize a moment in life is a fantastic thing. We
also want to do so in order to share these experiences and memories with our friends, family, and loved ones. Especially as generations pass, it’s a wonderful thing to be able to show your children and grandchildren where you’ve been (without boring them to death with the photo album). Try to capture moments of particular meaning to you and enough to make you feel like you’ve summarised the experience for the future. If you’re taking pictures of the same thing as thousands of other people (for example the Vatican) then try to make the pictures individual by maybe striking a funny pose or doing something out of the ordinary that makes you remember that place and time. Unless you make your living as a photographer you
don’t need bend backwards to take the perfect picture of the Vatican in the sunset – you’ll always find much better versions on Google anyway. The traditional “me standing in front of…” pictures can also be spiced up by for example jumping up high in front of a monument or lying on a bench instead of sitting on it. The camera is your enemy I just have to change the camera mode…The flash didn’t go off, let me try again…I think I can get a better angle of this shot, just hold on… Your travel companions might get annoyed with you if you do this a lot. Not only that, but are you actually appreciating what you’re trying so hard to photograph? Have you ever considered the time spilled on trying
Reportage: The camera | Explora
69
Somtimes we’re so focused on capturing the perfect moment – it passes us by in real life
to capture the perfect snapshot and that the moment is often actually over by the time you’re done? It’s a sad truth; many moments pass us by while we’re trying to find the right angle and mode to photograph it. At this point, the camera is no longer your friend but an annoying mechanism that’s stressing you and stealing your holiday. Try to consider if it’s really important to take this picture, and if you already have any similar shots from another day you can likely put the camera away and just enjoy the moment. Even if you have a digital camera you may want to avoid shooting 2000 images during your holiday because the one who’s going to have to sit for hours and sort them through when
coming home – is you. It may sound old-fashioned, but sometimes a recounted story can paint a much nicer picture than the perfect digital image. With the amount of photographs we take, we reduce the value of a good story that you tell a friend or a loved one, where they paint a picture with their own imagination of the place you were in. Someone wisely once said; the best pictures are the ones kept in our minds.
Don’t lose yourself A final advice on the matter would be: Don’t lose yourself and what’s happening around you because of your camera. Keep in mind why you came to this place and unless you’re there on a photography assignment; don’t forget to enjoy the moment. Enjoy it with all your senses – because that is most likely what you will remember and cherish afterwards.
70
Explora | Last words
I get the last word! I love to tavel to remote parts of Asia, thanks to Explora I got a good tip about where to start. Mongolia is one of my favourite destinations now, I go as often as I can.
Got my pack stolen at Johannesburg airport. But I’d still go back - C’est la vie! Martin, Dubai
John, PA. USA
Bungeejumping in New Zeeland is freaking AWESOME!!!
Life is too short to lie on the sofa and watch Grey’s Anatomy. Jane, CA. USA
Hans-Peter, Germany
You must keep the dream alive; if the dream is dead then you might as well be too.
Ulrika, Norway
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away. Panjub, India
I quit my job and travelled around for a year, several of the places I visited were from Explora’s articles. I never would have gotten the idea to visit these places if not for this magazine! Wayne, UK
Last words | Explora
This month’s Answer Key from Danger Quiz on page 18
Reader’s Letter Carolyn Wright, 26 years from UK Catching the train in New Delhi
Points per answer QUESTION
A
B
C
D
1: The climb
1
2
4
3
2: Surfing
2
4
1
3
3: Sharkie
1
3
4
2
4: Tenting
4
2
1
3
5: Canyoning
4
3
1
2
6: Risk release form
3
1
4
2
7: Amusement park
1
3
4
2
8: Igloo building
2
4
3
1
9: Africa trip
3
4
1
2
10: Water sports
2
3
4
1
11: Water slide
4
2
1
3
12: Rough sea
3
1
2
4
13: Go-kart
4
3
1
2
YOUR SUM
=
I arrived at the New Delhi Train Station in the muggy pre-dawn hours, amid the usual chaos of honking autorickshaws and hordes of people. A pack of red-turbaned porters stood at the ready as the fat ambassador taxis disgorged their passengers. I didn’t really need a porter to carry my bag, I could do it myself, but I needed one to help me find my platform, my train and my bogey. “How much?” I asked, knowing what was coming. “200 rupees,” came the answer. “Are you kidding?! I’ll carry it myself.” “Okay, okay 150,” came the retort. And so on, until finally we met sort-of in the middle at 80 rupees (about $2.00), which was high, but manageable. I followed my porter, who was of course running ahead, thinking it was my lucky day: he was very tall, which made him easier to spot as he raced through the crowd with my luggage on his head. We arrived at the platform and I showed him my ticket, but he pointed out that I had a waiting list ticket only. Number 48 on the waiting list. I thought 48 was my seat number. Panic. All the trains to Haridwar were booked for weeks. “I need to get on that train!” I told my porter. With only minutes left before departure we found the second-class conductor, a handsome man with a thoughtful face who simply said, “You can have my seat,” and told the porter the number. The porter and I looked at each other and smiled, accomplices now, and I gave him a heart-felt thank you as I thrust a small handful of 100 rupee notes in his hand, much more than he tried to scam off me. By MARIELLEN WARD at BreathDreamGo
Win a trip with EXPLORA Send the text WIN as an sms to number 124 56 and you might be one of the lucky winners! Five winners will receive a prize of flight tickets and adventure package for 2 persons to one of Explora’s destinations. Prizes not refundable.
71
Just like Michelangelo’s Sixteenth Chapel.
Only more awesome. Your no.1 partner in Adventure Sports.
Adventure enter