2017: Escape Premium Edition

Letter from the editor

BY LISA WRENN

Driving down Highway One, I had an epiphney. This was years ago, when the stresses of living in the Bay Area were weighing so heavily I was contemplating a move to somewhere less expensive, less congested, less exhausting.

The familiar view of the Pacific’s grandeur took me back to a family road trip when I was a kid and we moved to Berkeley for a summer. My dad drove us there by way of Big Sur and the whole family reeled in terrified wonder as the station wagon rounded the cliffside corners. We’d never seen anything like it.

It was the ’60s and that summer, as a child of the desert, I fell in love with everything I saw here — cable cars, redwoods, Stinson Beach, the color of bougainvillea and eucalyptus against the bluegray fog as it rolled in under the Golden Gate Bridge. By the time we left, I knew where I wanted to live when I grew up.

I made my way back right after college. Over the years I’ve revisited those beautiful places, and discovered dozens more. My sweet spot, however, remains anywhere off Highway 1 — which takes us back to my epiphany: How ridiculously fortunate was I to live so close to Lake Tahoe, Monterey, Yosemite, all places that other people have to fly halfway around the world to experience.

That’s when I knew I was

here to stay, and I’ve never second-guessed myself again. Instead, I’ve kept that thought in front of mind and whenever the pressures of Bay Area life have gotten the best of me, I plan my next adventure, even if it’s a day trip to San Francisco or Monterey.

With Escape, our goal is to help you do the same by showcasing a different destination for each month of the year. Look at this as an inspirational planning guide for 2018.

The truth is, many of these spots are spectacular year-round. But we wanted to focus on a region’s character at a time of year when it shines brightly. And we tried to match each destination with the writer who holds it deepest in his or her heart.

Shortly before deadline in mid-October, one of our chief destinations — the Napa-Sonoma Wine Country — erupted in flames. Our story was shelved and replaced by Chuck Barney’s thoughtful look at the charred landscape soon after the fires were finally tamed.

What he found was heartening and not surprising. Despite the staggering devastation, there was hope. Much of the Wine Country is back in business, and plans are in the works for rebuilding. As anyone who lived through the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, the 1991 Oakland Hills fire, and the great rains of 2017 that resulted in massive landslides in Big Sur and the Coyote Creek flood in San Jose knows, the people who live here are resilient.

They also are generous, and in the Wine Country competing winemakers are often the first to help out a neighbor in need. As Rob Mondavi Jr., grandson of the late Robert Mondavi, puts it in

A hot air balloon flies over the Bolen Family Estates winery in Napa. Sonoma and Napa already have begun recovering from a series of wildfires that tore through Wine Country in mid-October.

our story: “This is how we care for each other. It’s a beautiful, opendoor tradition that has existed for decades.”

What the Wine Country also needs is us. After Hurricane Katrina, a key to New Orleans’ resurrection was the influx of tourist dollars. Napa and Sonoma also depend on tourism and they need visitors in the very same way. Renewing your wine club subscription is a great gesture. Better yet, go spend a weekend there, maybe the one you were planning when the fires broke out. Waiters, baristas, masseuses and proprietors of B&B’s are hurting, too.

As nature continually reminds us: What makes California a geographically risky place to live are the same elemental forces — earthquakes, floods, fires — that created its unique beauty in the first place. As 2017 comes to a close, we can only hope for a 2018 in which nature is friend, not foe.

Let’s also let the recent tragedy serve as a reminder to make plans. Life is short, Bay Area living can be hard and some of the world’s A-list escapes are just a short road trip away.

ESCAPE STAFF

Editor Lisa Wrenn

Managing Editor Ann Tatko-Peterson

Contributing writers

Elliott Almond, Chuck Barney, Jackie Burrell, Karen D’Souza, Jim Harrington, Angela Hill, Lisa Krieger, Gary Peterson, Martha Ross, Jessica Yadegaran and Lisa Wrenn

Photo Editors Ray Saint Germain, Ann Tatko-Peterson

Designer Jennifer Schaefer

Copy Editor

DeAnne Musolf

Cover Illustration

Paul Thurlby

Inside Illustration

Dave Johnson

Los Angeles

Edgy art takes center stage in city of stars

BY MARTHA ROSS

For decades, many in the Bay Area have looked down on Los Angeles, viewing the bigger, brasher metropolis as a place to avoid except for during school breaks because that’s when we can take the kids to Disneyland.

But, in truth, it’s been a long time since theme parks were the main reason to go to Los Angeles. That’s even true for star-struck fans for whom the Hollywood Walk of Fame and other flashy, industry-related attractions are the primary lure.

Los Angeles is shedding its reputation as a culturally backward sprawl of freeways, suburbs and soulless strip malls and is making a strong case for itself as destination for premiere museums and world-class culture. Movers and shakers at Vanity Fair’s 2017 New Establishment conference in Beverly Hills pondered the possibility that the region has become America’s capital for the 21st century.

Spread across 469 square miles, the country’s second-most populous city boasts something that the Bay Area is losing — neighborhoods where artists, restaurateurs and others in creative callings can afford to live and work.

In Los Angeles, one of these eclectic, happening neighborhoods might still be clustered around a strip mall that’s anchored by a check-cashing outlet, but it nonetheless has drawn a community of energetic residents

A painted sidewalk by Venezuelan-born artist Carlos Cruz-Diez leads to the Broad Museum in Los Angeles.

right out of “La La Land” who are making art, or staging adventurous performances in storefront theaters, or maybe pioneering the next food trend.

Los Angeles is a year-round destination, but January offers special enticements. For theme park fans, fewer tourists means shorter lines at Disneyland, Six Flags Magic Mountain and Universal Studios and other attractions.

Los Angeles’ mild January weather also means you can soak in the sun at one of its famous beaches and might only need a sweater to enjoy an evening cocktail on a rooftop bar.

Occasional rain showers may cause traffic jams, but they also rinse away the smog to offer clear views of snow dusting the distant mountaintops, the Hollywood sign or maybe the city’s skyline from the third floor of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

One sign of the art scene’s growing cachet is that the hottest tickets in town aren’t just for major movie premieres but for gallery openings and galas at one of its top museums, like November’s LACMA extravaganza co-chaired by Leonardo DiCaprio.

But you don’t have to be a VIP to enjoy what’s fun and exciting about Los Angeles.

Head downtown to the Broad, the new contemporary art museum that features works by some of today’s top artists, charges no admission and is now one of the city’s top attractions.

Here local couples, families and groups of young friends view paintings or pose for selfies in front of Jeff Koons’ sculptures. They might also catch a bite to eat at Otium, the chic restaurant next door that’s helmed by Timothy

Hollingsworth, the former chef de cuisine at The French Laundry.

The Broad’s opening in 2015 helped crystallize downtown LA’s transformation from a weekend wasteland of office towers and crumbling art deco facades into a thriving region of lofts, new apartment towers, stylish restaurants and bars, and the historic Grand Central Market food hall.

Southeast of downtown is the 50-block Arts District, named for the murals that cover its former factories and warehouses. Those up on their history of urban renewal say the district reminds them of gritty 1970s New York City. Still, it wouldn’t be out of place for someone famous to pull up in a chauffeur-driven SUV to shop at one of the home design boutiques or to dine at Bestia, a wildly popular rustic Italian eatery.

About 10 miles up the 101 is another evolving district — North Hollywood, nicked-named NoHo. Things feel a little more relaxed in this pedestrian-friendly neighborhood, where young women carry yoga mats to Vinyasa classes and friendly actors invite passers-by to see their show at one of the storefront theaters.

Here you’ll find the Republic of Pie — a funky cafe with sofas, WiFi and really good coffee and pie. And, true to a Los Angeles cliché, everyone hunkered over a laptop looks like they’re tweaking their screenplay.

But there’s also something more going on. And as a vocalist and her guitar-playing partner cover mellow alt-rock hits, another side of today’s Los Angeles emerges, one in which aspiring writers pause and sit back to enjoy the company of their table mates and take in the music.

3WHERE TO SEE ART

1 Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Spread out over a 20-acre complex, the museum’s collections have long been one of the most impressive in the city: Greek and Roman sculpture, galleries of 17th-century Dutch landscapes and classic pieces by Picasso, Mondrian, Klee and Kandinsky. Ray’s and Stark Bar, located behind the museum’s iconic Urban Light installation on Wilshire Boulevard, has also become a happening place for al fresco lunch or brunch or, if you just want a drink, an elegant cocktail or a glass of wine from its California-centric wine list. Through 2018, LACMA is one 70 institutions throughout the city participating in the Pacific Standard Time: LA/ LA, an ambitious exploration of the city’s relationship to Latin American art and artists.

Details: Admission is $15, free for kids under 17. Open daily at 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles; www.lacma.org.

2 The Huntington

If you can, devote a day to visiting the one-time winter home of railway magnate Henry E. Huntington and his arts patron wife Arabella in San

Marino. Stroll the 120 acres of botanical gardens, including areas devoted to the design landscapes of Japan, China and the California desert, see European and American artworks in Huntington’s former Beaux Arts mansion, or visit the library he built to house his collection of rare books and see a Gutenberg Bible and a manuscript of Chaucer’s “The Canterbury Tales”.

Details: Admission is $25-$29, free for kids under 4. Open Wednesday-Monday at 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino; www.huntington.org.

3 The Broad Homebuilding billionaires Eli and Edythe Broad amassed such a large collection of contemporary art that the philanthropists needed to build a downtown museum to showcase their 2000 pieces in rotating exhibitions. They also wanted to prove their hometown is “the cultural capital of the United States.”

Details: Admission is free, but the museum is popular, so be sure to reserve your spot. Open Tuesday-Sunday at 221 S. Grand Ave.; Los Angeles; www.thebroad.org.

The NoHo Arts District in North Hollywood was established in 1992 and is now home to theaters, art galleries and the Art Institute of California.

WHERE TO EAT RAMENDON’T MISS

1 Tatsu Ramen

At Tatsu, there are no real waiters, just iPads where you enter your customized order, grab a table and wait for your steaming bowl of noodles to arrive. Tatsu also bills itself as “ramen with a soul,” and the umami-rich tonkotsu broth certainly makes that case.

Details: 2123 Sawtelle Blvd. and 7111 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; www.tatsuramen.com.

2 Tsujita LA Artisan Noodles

Tsujita LA Artisan Noodles offers a new twist on the ramen experience. Patrons order dry tsukemen noodles that they can dip into savory broth and mix with sliced barbecue pork and other toppings. Of course, you also can go the traditional route.

Details: 2057 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles; www.tsujita-la.com.

Elena Orio, right, has her picture taken by Tracy Ikari as she stands next to Marilyn Monroe’s crypt in Westwood. The 114-yearold cemetery is the final resting place of Monroe, Natalie Wood, Truman Capote and Jack Lemmon.

Tragical History Tour

If you want to go Hollywood while visiting Los Angeles, you can of course sign on to a tour of studios or the stars’ homes.

But why bother when the darker side of Hollywood is so much more fascinating?

Instead there’s the Tragical History Tour which ferries you to the sites of celebrity crimes, scandals and tragedies, from the starlet who threw herself to her death from the Hollywood sign in 1932 to the sad tales of talents including Marilyn Monroe, Janis Joplin and Whitney Houston who all died much too young.

The three-hour tour is not for the faint of heart, but its star-struck guides are fierce students of L.A. life and history, so even the most tragedy-tinged locations are placed in a broader popular culture context.

The guides also deploy humor and biting social commentary when warranted, which it often is, of course.

Highlights of the tour include El Coyote restaurant where Sharon Tate ate her last meal, Aaron Spelling’s “stupid rich” 123-room mega-mansion in Holmby Hills where Tori Spelling grew up, the park where Hugh Grant met a hooker named Divine Brown and the Sunset Boulevard phone booth outside Johnny Depp’s Viper Room where Joaquin Phoenix called 911 to report his brother River’s fatal overdose.

Tahoe 2

White snow + clear skies = adventure in wonderland

BY CHUCK BARNEY

It’s funny how a majestic Lake Tahoe vista, all lathered in snow, can bring out vastly different desires in different people.

The adrenaline junkie lays eyes on the powdery terrain and instantly yearns to rip through it at a frantic pace on a pair of skis, or aboard a snarling snowmobile.

Meanwhile, the more laid-back type prefers to position the whitecapped peaks as a dreamy backdrop while sipping hot chocolate and listening to live music — or curling up with a book — in front of a robust fire.

Such is the all-encompassing allure of Tahoe. There are few places on earth that can match its spectacular scenery while simultaneously seducing a wide array of visitors — from adventure-seekers and nature-lovers to gamblers and club-hoppers, artists and lovers.

And yet, the overall sensory effect that everyone experiences is typically the same: All that stress brought on by workplace demands and big-city hassles begins to magically melt away as you immerse yourself in the rarefied atmosphere of this winter wonderland.

Yes, go ahead and inhale ever so deeply. As Mark Twain once insisted, “To breathe the same air as the angels, you must go to Tahoe.”

Mr. Clemens was obviously onto something.

Of course, the sapphire jewel at the center of it all is that vast body of water straddling the California-Nevada border — that great, big, beautiful, impossibly blue, crystal-clear lake. So mesmerizing. So mysterious. Members of the Washoe Tribe, the region’s first settlers, had to know from the very start that just one look is all it takes to fall under its powerful spell.

But why visit in February? Because even though spring is just around the corner, the slopes usually (knock on wood) are still coated with plenty of white stuff. Just an idea, but doesn’t a Valentine’s Day sunset dinner cruise across the lake and into gorgeous Emerald Bay sound pretty amazing right about now?

This alpine paradise has two distinctive faces: the north side, where the crowds are smaller, the pace is slower and plenty of blue bloods roam; and the south side, where the energy is vibrant and they don’t roll up the sidewalks at sundown. It’s yet another example of how Tahoe caters to disparate personalities.

Both areas combine to offer incredible skiing and snowboarding opportunities. More than a dozen resorts are spread out over 22,000 acres teeming with limitless moguls, jaw-dropping cliffs and breath-taking views of Big Blue.

Page 11: With Lake Tahoe as a backdrop, a skier kicks up some powder at Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe.

At left: Tahoe is a winter wonderland for more than skiers. Sledding is another option that entertains the whole family.

The ski areas around Tahoe typically receive 400 inches of snow each winter when not plagued by drought conditions. And whether you’re a beginner or a pro, there are plenty of options to find your bliss while frolicking in the pristine snow.

Of course, if hurtling down a frigid mountain with the wind in your face isn’t your idea of primo fun, you can move indoors and try for a very different kind of thrill at the black jack table. If you play your cards right, you’ll go home with a much fatter wallet.

But if it’s snow you truly want and aren’t a skier or snowboarder, rest assured that there are other ways to enjoy the flakes. A horsedrawn sleigh ride, for example, makes for a leisurely, family-friendly alternative. And there’s snowshoeing, or tobogganing, or cross-country skiing.

Among the more exhilarating endeavors is a snowmobile tour of the Sierra’s fir-lined high country -- one geared toward your ability level and conducted at moderate speeds along smooth, machine-groomed trails. It’s a fun, high-octane way to get your motor running and appease your wilderness spirit at the same time.

Then again, if all you feel like doing is tossing a snowball around or building a snowman, there’s that, too. As you do, just make sure to take time to savor your surroundings and suck in some of that incredible angel’s air.

GET OUT THE SNOWMOBLIE

1

Lake Tahoe Adventures

If you’re itching to get out in the powdery terrain, but don’t ski or snowboard, one of your best options is a guided snowmobile tour. This company’s tours explore beautiful Hope Valley, about 20 miles from South Lake Tahoe and 15 miles from Markleeville. (Riders are taken there via shuttle buses.) Groomed trails deliver riders across streams, through backcountry woods and meadows. Most trips last two hours or more. Ask about their lunch/dinner group tours and the moonlight tours. The latter are conducted when conditions are right. Details: 1300 Apache Ave., South Lake Tahoe; www.laketahoeadventures.com.

2 Zephyr Cove Snowmobiling Tours

These two-hour treks, which depart from the Zephyr Cove Resort, ascend to more than 9,000 feet above sea level, feature more than 45 miles of trails and offer jaw-dropping views of the lake. It’s a great choice for visitors staying close to the Stateline casinos. Group tours are available for up to 180 riders. The Ultimate Experience tour allows you to “fully customize” your adventu--re. Complimentary shuttle transportation to and from hotels is provided.

Details: Children 15 and younger ride free (when accompanied by an adult) on specified days. 760 Highway 50, Zephyr Cove; www.zephyrcove.com.

Tahoe’s mountains offer ideal terrain for snowmobiling, like these groomed trails in Hope Valley.

3

Lake Tahoe Snowmobiling Tours

Better bring your camera along. This company, which claims to have the largest fleet of newer snowmobiles on Lake Tahoe’s North Shore, takes its riders up to the top of Mount Watson (elevation: 8,200 feet), where they’re treated to fantastic views of Lake Tahoe, as well as the major ski resorts in the area, including Northstar, Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows Ski Resort.

Details: Tours depart twice daily and cater to all ages and ability levels. Highway 267, just south of the Northstar ski area entrance; www.laketahoesnowmobiling.com.

TAHOE

AERIAL RIDESDONT MISS

1 Heavenly Mountain Gondola

An eight-passenger cabin carries you from an elevation of 6,360 feet to over 9,100 feet. Midway up the 2.4-mile ride is an observation deck with gorgeous views of Lake Tahoe, Carson Valley and Desolation Wilderness. The deck includes a cafe and picnic tables. You can continue up to Tamarack Lodge.

Details: 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd., South Lake Tahoe; www.skiheavenly.com.

2 Squaw Valley Aerial Tram

On this 10-minute ride, passengers climb 2,000 vertical feet. At the top is High Camp, and spectacular scenery. Weather permitting, High Camp offers an ice-skating rink and Olympic Museum with 1960 memorabilia.

Details: 1990 Squaw Peak Road, Olympic Valley; www.squawalpine.com.

Emerald Bay, an iconic tourist attraction, lies under blue skies near South Lake Tahoe.

Emerald Bay

If you can imagine the shoreline of Lake Tahoe as a glittery necklace, Emerald Bay would be its most radiant jewel. No first-time trip to the area is complete without spending some time around this gorgeous body of water situated on the western edge of Tahoe’s most southern point. You can cruise into it — and around tiny Fannette Island — aboard the paddlewheeler M.S. Dixie II. Or you can drive along it on one of the most awesome stretches of curvy Highway 89, the road that takes you around the lake. (Check ahead for winter road closures.)

Either way, it’s time well-spent. Drivers should stop at the Inspiration Point Vista which towers 600 feet above the shoreline. Just don’t forget to bring your camera because this

is the most photographed piece of scenery in all of Tahoe.

Other sights to see in the area include Eagle Falls, just up the road, and Vikingsholm. One quick warning: Parking is often in high demand around Emerald Bay, so it’s best to get there early or avoid weekends and holidays. In 1969, Emerald Bay was recognized as a National Natural Landmark by the federal Department of the Interior. In 1994, California State Parks included the surrounding water of the bay as part of the park, making Emerald Bay one of the first underwater parks of its kind in the state.

Details: Emerald Bay State Park, 138 Emerald Bay Road, South Lake Tahoe; www.parks. ca.gov.

TAHOE

SEAN GALLUP/GETTY IMAGES, OPPOSITE: LAKE TAHOE ADVENTURES

Palm Springs 3

Unwind in midcentury mecca reborn as a hip haven of winter warmth and natural wonders

BY JACKIE BURRELL

The glossy white blades of more than 4,000 wind turbines spin a hypnotic spell on the approach to Palm Springs, a desert oasis where even the road signs whisper memories of a glittering past. Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope and Dinah Shore are streets. Singing cowboy Gene Autry is a trail, of course — despite the trail’s boulevard appearance. This glitzy city, with its distinctive architecture and glamorous clubs, has long been a magnet for celebrities and politicians. Crooners, starlets, even presidents have cavorted here since the 1950s and ‘60s. They still do, wooed by the desert landscape, the buzzy dining scene and the midcentury-modern marvels, designed by architectural luminaries such as Richard Neutra, Donald Wexler and Albert Frey. That it’s a balmy 80 degrees in the depths of winter certainly helps.

In fact, between its Frank Sinatra past and its modernist present, Palm Springs is simply sublime in March. It may be chilly and damp back home, but here in the desert, wildflowers are blooming and business is booming. The crowds that came for February’s fabulous

Just west of Palm Springs, a rainbow forms a backdrop to an array of wind turbines.

midcentury-modern culture and design festival have abated a bit, and the desert air is perfumed by orange blossoms.

So where to start? Head for the distinctive soaring profile of the city’s visitors center, housed in the Tramway Gas Station which is unlike any gas station, former or present, you’ll ever see. Designed by Albert Frey and Robson Chambers, the building’s extravagant kite-shaped roof alone is an Instagram magnet. The center stands at the gateway to Mount San Jacinto State Park, where slowly revolving tram cars take visitors more than 8,500 feet up the mountain for spectacular views.

Once you’ve gotten the view from the top, head back to the city streets where you can see examples of midcentury architecture just driving around. Among the highlights are Wexler’s iconic accordion-folded steel houses and E. Stewart Williams’ savings-andloan building, which now houses the Palm Springs Art Museum’s Architecture and Design Center.

Of course, one of the big attractions of February’s Modernism Week is the chance to tour some of these buildings — by double-decker bus, no less. But you can take an architecture tour any time of year, and some tour guides, including Trevor O’Donnell who leads PS Architecture Tours, offer them with a side of celebrity history.

Not the touring type? Anyone

can visit Sunnylands, philanthropists Walter and Leonore Annenberg’s 200-acre estate and historic home in nearby Rancho Mirage, simply by making reservations. Publishing magnate Walter Annenberg’s estate was known as the West Coast’s Camp David, a place where presidents and royals — from the Bushes, Reagans and Clintons to Queen Elizabeth — gathered to relax and talk politics.

But the easiest way to get in a mod mood is by staying in one of these midcentury marvels, such as the Monkey Tree Hotel, designed by Frey in 1960 and host to such guests as Lucille Ball, Bob Hope and Marilyn Monroe. Renovated now to its full midcentury glory, it’s a blast from the retro past, right down to the huge plastic flamingo floating in a pool surrounded by bright yellow umbrellas.

With surroundings like this, you’ll be crooning Sinatra in no time at all.

PALM SPRINGS

3

ONLYINPALMSPRINGSEXPERIENCES

1 The rotating tram

At the top of Mount San Jacinto, the temperatures are chilly and the vibe is nothing but cool. The starkly beautiful cliffs of Chino Canyon tower over Palm Springs, but you can get from the desert level to the top — the Mountain Station stop is perched at 8,516 feet — in 10 minutes flat. The ride? The world’s largest rotating tram car, which slowly spins as it ascends to maximize the glorious views. And at the top you’ll find three sipping and noshing spots — including the swanky Peaks, the casual Pines Cafe and the cocktail-centric Lookout Lounge — as well as a museum, theater, gift shop and 50 miles of hiking trails. But be sure to bundle up: It may be warm at the base but it can be snowy at the top. Details: 1 Tram Way, Palm Springs; www.pstramway.com.

2 Date shakes

There’s a reason every Hollywood depiction of an oasis scene has actors nibbling dates under the palms. Turns out there are many different kinds of palm trees, and date palms bear dates, not — ahem — coconuts. You’ll encounter palm trees by the thousand — and sweet date ice cream by the scoop — at hot spots throughout the

Coachella Valley. One favorite is Palm Springs’ new wave Ice Cream & Shop(pe), where the rotating flavors include Cappuccino Crunch, Pink Ginger and Coachella Valley Date ice creams. Or go retro at Indio’s classic Shields Date Garden, where the cafe menu includes date pancakes, date-topped burgers and sweet date milkshakes.

Details: Ice Cream & Shop(pe), 1551 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; www.icecreamandshop.com. The cafe at Shields, 80225 Highway 111, Indio; www. shieldsdategarden.com

3 Moorten Botanical Garden

Who could possibly resist anything involving a contortionist, an original Keystone Cop and a Cactarium? Actor Chester Moorten and his botanist wife Patricia created this desert arboretum in 1938, gathering 3,000 specimens of desert plants. There are all the agaves, cacti and aloes you might expect, plus cardon and boojum trees, a soaring Pachypodium, a thorned Caesalpinia and more. That the duo designed Walt Disney’s Frontierland should come as no surprise.

Details: 1701 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; moortenbotanicalgarden.com.

A hallway at the Riviera Palm Springs luxury resort highlights Palm Springs’ history as a retreat for Hollywood’s elite.

RIVIERA PALM SPRINGS

DESERT FORAYS DON’T MISS

1 The 49 Palms Oasis

Joshua Tree National Park is famous, of course, for its spiky trees and desert vistas. But this oasis is no mirage. A 3-mile roundtrip trail to 49 Palms winds along ancient Native American pathways, past barrel cacti and flowering brittlebush to a green oasis of soaring fan palms and burbling, spring-fed pools. It’s sheer magic.

Details: This moderately strenuous hike takes two to three hours, most of it spent on unshaded trails. Carry plenty of water. Find trail maps and more information at www.nps. gov/jotr/.

2 Salton Sea

A lavender haze rises from this enormous — and immensely saline — inland sea an hour’s drive southeast of Palm Springs. It’s difficult to imagine that this spot, the result of a 1905 Colorado River flood that filled California’s deep Salton Trough some 227 feet below sea level, was once a hot resort destination. Today, it’s an eerie, apocalyptic vision with a strange, savage beauty and a blindingly white beach made from the crushed skeletons of sea creatures.

Details: Open daily; day use fee is $5-$7. Learn more at www.parks.ca.gov.

A fan palm oasis lies at the bottom of Palm Canyon, which is part of the Agua Caliente Indian Canyons near Palm Springs.

BNP Paribas Open

The BNP Paribas Open held each March is the fifth largest tennis event in the world. And how Oracle founder Larry Ellison and swanky Nobu landed on the business end of a tennis racket is a tale in itself. It’s a story best told, actually, in this town near Palm Springs, where the magnificent Indian Wells Tennis Garden sits atop 88 acres of what was once just sand. Ellison, a tennis enthusiast, bought the place in 2009 and has been upgrading it ever since. Today, the gleaming property holds 29 tennis courts and two stadiums. With more than 16,000 seats and 44 suites, Stadium 1 is the second largest tennis-specific stadium in the world. Head for Stadium 2, which holds 8,000, and you can dine at Nobu, chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s famous restaurant.

Details: The BNP Paribas Open is March 5-18 in Indian Wells; www.bnpparibasopen.com.

Santa Cruz 4

Opening up in this oceanside

oasis

of surf, sand, suds and a new square

BY ELLIOTT ALMOND

It happens every spring. Colorful Tibetan prayer flags flutter deep in the forest to herald an awakening from the dreary winter rains that have pelted the Central Coast.

Once nature’s faucet shuts down in April, it’s game on in Santa Cruz, an outdoor enthusiast’s utopian fantasy.

The natural blessings of mountains and sea hold a special allure for hikers, kayakers, mountain bikers, skateboarders and surfers who helped immortalize the town’s laid-back lifestyle. Yet, it would be unfair to stamp this neck of the Monterey Bay as simply another Boulder, Colorado, or Jackson, Wyoming.

For all its rustic charm, Santa Cruz has a split personality. How else to explain the pandemonium of the Beach Boardwalk’s Giant Dipper rubbing against the solemnity of Land of the Medicine Buddha, the spiritual compound where prayer flags are strung to trees along sodden footpaths.

The Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk offers a carnival atmosphere to the seacoast. Corn dogs and carousels on the edge of the sea. Buddha and acres of statuesque

SANTA CRUZ

redwoods up above. The oscillating symbols sometimes make the artsy beach town seem a bit like a confused teenager.

Unsurprisingly, the bacon-thin strip of land between mountains and coast has been unable to curb encroaching Silicon Valley from busily reshaping the town. This decades-long uprooting was inevitable with ever-expanding San Jose only 30 miles “over the hill” and San Francisco just 90 minutes to the north.

Housing prices have soared with an invasion of tech-savvy hipsters who are as interested in cafes and culture as chasing the waves. A thriving organic food scene, trendy breweries and the scholarly air of a University of California campus lend Surf City an urbane sophistication.

The vibrancy from these changes more than outweigh what has been lost. It may take patience to ignore the maddening Highway 1 traffic jams, but it’s not difficult to rekindle the old Santa Cruz sensibility.

I feel it every time I’m poking around my old haunt, even if just taking a sundown stroll along the cliffs at Pleasure Point.

It has been 45 years since I lived in a wood-frame water tower in Capitola-by-the-Sea. Our split-level adobe sat among the chicken roosts and backyard shacks where craftsmen shaved foam planks into seafaring chariots that we paddled into the ocean.

My friend Don Carroll managed the old Haut Surf Shop on 41st Avenue, a block from the popular wave called The Hook. We surfed the break almost every evening after closing time and I still love

checking out the waves there. But instead of arriving with a surfboard tucked under an arm, I might show up licking a to-die-for homemade cone from Penny Ice Creamery up the street.

Even with cold water, fog-shrouded summers and the threat of great white sharks, Santa Cruz is still the major surfing center that was born in 1885 when three Hawaiian princes first rode the combers at the San Lorenzo River mouth.

It’s a spectacle when massive swells smack into the crumbly bluffs at Steamer Lane where the historic lighthouse is perched and crowds gather along the fencedoff cliffs to watch water acrobats perform hypnotic movements on the waves.

However, Santa Cruz’s lure no longer ends at the sea. Years ago, the sleepy town was shut down by nightfall except for the old-timey dive bars that we avoided. But now, after a full day of outdoor adventuring, coastal denizens convene in one of the area’s 16 breweries serving hand-crafted beer. Locals spill into the covered courtyard on weekend evenings at Beer Thirty Bottle Shop and Pour House in downtown Soquel, discussing the day’s thrill rides or neighborhood gossip.

They sound content. Development hasn’t stolen the old vibe. It hasn’t trespassed on the leafy green fields of Brussels sprouts just north of town or subverted the solitude at Forest of Nisene Marks in Aptos.

Remarkably, the spit and polish of progress has cleaned up the grime without destroying Santa Cruz’s natural jewels.

Page 21: Visitors ride the Giant Dipper Roller Coaster at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk in Santa Cruz.

At left: Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz charms visitors with its sandy beaches, crashing surf and adorable cottages.

PATRICK TEHAN/BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

CATCH A WAVE

1 Steamer Lane

The Lane is the reason Santa Cruz landed at No. 2 this year on Surfer Magazine’s Best Surf Towns in America list: It is perhaps the most consistent wave on the West Coast. Surfers often jump off the cliffs into the roiling surf below where thick, green swells wrap around Lighthouse Point to form beautiful onrushing curls. The Lane has four distinct peaks from which to choose, but the one farthest north keeps pumping even in windy conditions because it’s buffered by the cliff. Beginners should stay away from this experts-only break. Take a tour of the Surf Museum inside the Lighthouse instead.

Pleasure Point is the center of surf activity on the east side of town, with right-breaking waves rumbling toward the bluffs on a good northwest or west swell. The legendary Jack O’Neill lived in a house above the break because the wetsuit pioneer loved the atmosphere here. Jay Moriarity of “Chasing Mavericks” fame made the Point his homegrown break. The best surfers ride the big ones at Sewer Peak, named for a one-time sewage outfall that used to spew nasty stuff over the rocky reef. What makes the breaks off Soquel Point so great is their diversity. Second Peak — the break south of the Point — is longboard heaven for the older set.

A surfer heads out to ride the waves at the popular surf break known as Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz.

3

Although the Hook is part of the long succession of Pleasure Point of waves, it has its own identity at the end of 41st Avenue. Alas, it deserves its own section. One of the best little waves on the Central Coast is located near a parking lot, has stairs down to the rocky beach and is a forgiving wave to catch even when big swells pound the coastline. Alas, there is a catch: The wave attracts a protective and vocal local crowd that has been unwelcoming to outsiders since the early 1970s. Those brave surfers who can endure the “localism” vibe say it’s worth it to enjoy glassy rides that can last for 25 yards or more.

2 Pleasure Point

SANTA CRUZ

The Hook

DON’T MISS PLACES TO QUENCH A THIRST

2

They bottle beers by hand at this Belgianinspired tap room located in a warehouse park in Capitola-by-the-Sea.

Adairius specializes in saison-style concoctions in a no-frills setting that attracts a sociable crowd who arrive just as a setting sun says adios to another day in paradise. Sante Adairius, which has a second location on Water Street in Santa Cruz, prefers to remain a local watering house. Those who like a burger with their beer need to go elsewhere as Adairius doesn’t offer food. Many of the brews are aged in wine barrels as owners Adair Paterno and Tim Clifford try to maintain what they describe as an “authentic” taste.

Details: 103 Kennedy Drive, Capitola; www.rusticales.com.

The Soquel artisan brewery offers 30 smallbatch regional beers on a rotating basis and more than 300 interesting bottles of beer in a refrigerated case. Beer Thirty was created as a gathering place with pingpong tables, dartboards and big-screen TVs tuned to sports events. The bar offers pricey snacks weekdays but has an upscale bar food menu Friday through Sunday in the beer garden, courtesy of neighboring Carpo’s Restaurant. The pan-roasted padron peppers or crispy green beans go hand in hand with the exotic craft brews. Patrons are welcome to bring their own food to eat on the long tables outdoors. They can bring their dogs too.

Details: 2504 S. Main St., Soquel; www.beerthirtysantacruz.com.

Abbott Square

Above

Abbott Square recently opened to become the magnet for downtown dwellers, with six eclectic mini restaurants that resemble an indoor food-truck culture. The Square spills into the Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History to add to the city’s growing cosmopolitan feel. Start at Front and Cooper where the master mixologists create luminous cocktails (try the gintonic #3 with cassis and berries for $10). All Aboard’s oyster bar or Veg on the Edge’s West African-influenced dishes fill the stomach. There’s pizza with glutenfree options, a coffee bar and poke, too. For dessert, sample Milk and Wood’s handcrafted ice pops with assorted toppings ($5). The square offers public seating for free community events, such as art, music and yoga — this is Santa Cruz, after all.

1 Sante Adairius Rustic Ales

Sante

Above left: Theresa Adams, of San Jose, enjoys a beer at New Bohemia Brewing Company during a micro–brewery tour put on by Brew Cruz in Santa Cruz.

right: Debora Wade and her daughter Malakai coax musical notes from the xylophone installation in Abbott Square.

Beer Thirty Bottle Shop and Pour House

25 songs to make the journey as much fun as the destination

There’s something about California that seems to inspire songwriters like no other state. Maybe it’s because the Golden State provides so much dramatic inspiration, as it stretches from the gorgeous sandy beaches of SoCal to the majestic redwood forests in Northern California — and, oh, so much in between. Here are 25 road trip-worthy songs that sparkle with the magic of California.

BY JIM HARRINGTON

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Good Vibrations

Let’s kick off the road trip with the ultimate California band –The Beach Boys – and possibly the most amazing pop song of all time.

California Love

Now, it’s time to drop the top (if you’re in a convertible), crank up this priceless party anthem and sing along with the legendary Tupac Shakur.

California Dreamin’

How many people moved to California in the ‘60s due to this perfect piece of sonic sunshine? Probably too many to count. So, in other words, you can thank The Mamas & the Papas for the congested freeways.

The Golden Road (To Unlimited Devotion)

Talk about a tune that evokes a proper ‘60s vibe, here’s one of the Grateful Dead’s best-known early offerings, which is still groovy after all these years.

What Is Hip?

Time to cross over the Bay Bridge for a big dish of “East Bay Grease,” courtesy of the one-and-only Tower of Power and its fabled horn section.

All I Wanna Do

If, indeed, all you “wanna” do is have some fun, then we recommend you turn up Sheryl Crow’s breakthrough hit, which radiates with a warm California glow.

California Girls

No, this absolutely does not count as a second Beach Boys song on our list, because, um, we are going with the David Lee Roth cover version here. Yeah, that’s we’re doing. Honest.

California Gurls

We just love the juxtaposition of Katy Perry’s super dance number with the Beach Boys –uh, we mean David Lee Roth – favorite.

I Love L.A.

OK, so Giants fans might not like hearing this one, which is played each time the home team wins at Dodger Stadium. But we just can’t imagine a proper California playlist without including Randy Newman’s amazing ode to the great city of Los Angeles.

(Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay

As legend has it, Otis Redding began writing this beauty while on a houseboat at Waldo Point in Sausalito. The result would be, for our money, the greatest song ever written about the Bay Area.

Pacific Ocean Blues

This memorable cut also does not count as a Beach Boys tune, since it hails from Dennis Wilson’s one –and, sadly, only –solo album.

Rockin’ Down the Highway

Is San Jose in the house?

You bet, thanks to this fantastic (and highly appropriate)

Doobie Brothers offering.

Tell Me When to Go

Time for a big dose of the East Bay’s hyphy sound, courtesy of rappers E-40 and Keak da Sneak. Enjoy responsible and please resist the urge to “ghost ride the whip.”

It Was a Good Day

Ice Cube delivers a tuneful travelogue through a day in the life of one young man living in Southern California. We’ve always thought of this song as a kind of hip-hop equivalent of James Joyce’s “Ulysses.” But, then again, maybe we think too much (or not enough?).

Malibu

A lot of people forget just how fantastic Courtney Love and Hole were in back in the day. Let this shiny rocker serve as a reminder.

L.A.

Woman

This Doors classic kicks off a threesong adrenaline rush. So, watch your speedometer, because we know the foot can get a little heavy whenever Jim Morrison comes on.

Still in Hollywood

L.A. alt-rock outfit Concrete Blonde was at the top of its game when it recorded this blistering rocker, propelled by Johnette Napolitano’s soaring vocals and bass work, James Mankey’s muscular guitar leads and Harry Rushakoff’s explosive drumming.

Hollywood Nights

Leave it to the Midwest’s greatest rocker – Bob Seger – to come up with the ultimate song about Hollywood.

The Only Place Best Coast is, of course, referencing California.

(We just love how cocky this indie-pop act is about its home state.)

Streets of Bakersfield

You didn’t think we’d forget the country music fans, did you? Here’s a honkytonker from Buck Owens and Dwight Yoakam, followed by an offering by one of the genre’s all-time greats.

A Friend in California

Merle Haggard was the man. And the Kern County native, who helped pioneer the fabled “Bakersfield sound,” possessed one of the finest voices in country music history. He delivered so many excellent songs over the decades, including this gem from the ‘80s.

California Uber Allies

Just wanted to make sure you were still paying attention, and not getting a bit sleepy or anything. This jolt of the Bay Area’s own Dead Kennedys will wake you right up.

Back in San Francisco

Yet another amazing pop song from South Bay songwriter Allen Clapp and his terrific Orange Peels.

Electrolite

Granted, we’ll look for pretty much any excuse to put R.E.M. on pretty much any list. But this gorgeous piano ballad for L.A. is nothing less than breathtaking.

Surfer Girl

OK, we lied. We couldn’t bear to only put one Beach Boys cut on the list. So, please accept our apology and enjoy this remarkably romantic treasure.

Yosemite 5

BY LISA KRIEGER

Far below us, as we watched Yosemite’s infamous traffic inch along the Valley floor, the distant din of cars, buses and crowds seemed as remote as another planet. We stood atop Yosemite Falls, with spirits as high as the granite cliffs, relaxing and rejoicing in our 3.5-mile, 2,425-foot ascent to the top of North America’s tallest waterfall — and a soul-soothing place of peace and grace.

Then my daughter and I rinsed our hands in its cold and wild creek, and toasted our trek with crackers, oysters and a stunning Sierra Nevada view. We laughed, with head-spinning vertigo, as we peered over cliffs to watch its waters plunge down vast vertical walls.

This is what awaits you in Yosemite’s high country in May. As days lengthen, temperatures climb and snow melts, the park’s world-famous waterfalls are thundering.

Pick one: Sentinel Falls (2,000 feet), Ribbon Fall (1,612 feet), Horsetail Fall (1,000 feet), Bridalveil Fall (620 feet), Nevada Fall (594 feet), Vernal Fall (317 feet), Illilouette Fall (370 feet), Wapama Falls (1,400 feet) or Chilnualna Falls (2,200 feet), with its series of gorgeous pool-and-drop cascades.

For a strenuous climb, try our favorite: Yosemite Falls, immortalized by photographer Ansel

With El Capitan and Bridalveil Fall in the background, Karl Bastian walks on a log on the Merced River in Yosemite National Park.

Snow melts, rivers rise, water falls and the valley is wet and wonderful

Adams and generations of other artists. For more remote adventures, seek out the lesser known Royal Arch Cascade, Pywiack Cascade, Staircase Falls, Three Chute Falls or Wildcat Falls.

Many more waterfalls — smaller, unnamed and ephemeral — spill off the Valley rim in the spring, just waiting to be discovered.

If you don’t want to climb, they can be admired from below. Take a trail to the base of Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Fall. The stroll out past Mirror Lake — in springtime, with water, there’s a reflection — offers a world-class view of the Half Dome monolith.

To be sure, every season is lovely in Yosemite. Summer brings long days, cobalt blue skies and meadows rich with subalpine wildflowers. Autumn is beloved for foliage: magenta dogwoods, yellow maples and butterscotch oaks. In winter, the park is a snowy wonderland, its rocks etched like crystal.

But spring is special. Even the smallest creeks rush with water; the most famed waterfalls reach peak runoff in May or early June. There’s still a chill in the morning air. The trees explode with fresh new leaves. Meadows are bright green corridors of grass. Snow still drapes over the beloved mountain aptly named Clouds Rest.

Wildlife is stirring, with bears, foxes, deer and lynx moving among the scented cedar and ponderosa pine trees. As spring progresses, the Valley is rich with blossoming white dogwoods and brilliant pink-purple redbuds.

Here’s another secret: The biggest crowds don’t arrive until Memorial Day. And — more good

news — you can escape them. While an estimated 3.9 million flock to Yosemite every year, most people confine their visits to the flat Valley floor, just a tiny fraction of the park. The park is huge, covering 1,189 square miles of wilderness — about the size of the state of Rhode Island.

As you climb the trails out of the Valley, ascending waterfall routes into the high country, the crowds suddenly vanish.

The wild card in all of this, of course, is the weather. Spring in the Sierra Nevada can be unpredictable, ranging from sunny, warm days to sudden snow flurries that cover the granite landscape like an ermine coat. Be prepared — a fleece jacket or pullover is useful. Remember a raincoat if you’ll be near waterfalls.

Yosemite’s highest elevations can remain snowy into June or later, and backpacking options are limited. In 2018, there will be steeper competition for slots in the High Sierra Camps, because they were closed for the entire summer of 2017 due to snow, and many guests moved their reservations to the following summer. Remember that tire chains are sometimes required even during spring; carry them, and know how to use them.

With deep respect for its moods and mighty power, my daughter and I took one last look from our perch atop Yosemite Falls. Already, the sun was beginning to drop behind steep cliffs. A chill was setting in. We had miles to descend before darkness. Civilization, far below, was waiting.

We vowed to return, and hoped, once again, to have Yosemite all to ourselves.

3BEAUTIFUL GIANT SEQUOIA GROVES

1 Mariposa Grove

The largest of three relict groves of giant sequoias within the park, the Mariposa Grove has been closed since the summer of 2015 — but is slated to open in in spring 2018. I’ve missed it but am grateful for efforts to protect these trees for future generations. Gone are businesses like the gift shop and kitschy tram tours. The parking lot has been moved; roads have been converted into trails. The trees will be better protected. And there will be new trails, offering better access to all visitors. The Grizzly Giant Trail is the grove’s premier route. A gaze up at the 1,800-year-old Grizzly Giant is well worth enduring the crowds and the 1.6-mile roundtrip hike. A longer hike will take you to both the grove’s upper and lower sections.

Details: On the Wawona Road (Highway 41), near the park’s South Entrance. Check for the opening date before visiting; www.nps.gov/yose/ planyourvisit/mariposagrove. htm.

2 Tuolumne Grove

Smaller but less visited, the Tuolumne Grove has about 25 mature trees. Go here for a quiet, deep-forest experience. Joseph Walker described the trees in his 1833 expedition logs and his group is believed to be the first white settlers to see giant sequoias. The hike to the trees is about 2.5 miles round trip, with about 500 feet of elevation change. It’s downhill all the way — until you have to come back.

Details: The Tuolumne Grove is located on Tioga Road just east of Crane Flat.

The smallest of Yosemite’s giant sequoia groves, the grove is also the least crowded. The Merced Grove has about 20 large trees. The smooth and wide trail leading to the sequoias is flanked by conifer forest rich with wildlife. The hike is about 3 miles round trip, with about 600 feet of elevation gain. Like the Tuolumne Grove, it’s downhill to the trees, then uphill to get back.

Details: Located on the Big Oak Flat Road east of the park’s Big Oak Flat Entrance.

3 Merced Grove

Tueeulala Falls cascades into Hetch Hetchy Reservoir in Yosemite National Park.

DINO VOURNAS/ASSOCIATED PRESS

PLACES TO CELEBRATE THE PARK’S EARLY SETTLERSDON’T MISS

The bar at Majestic

This outdoor setting contains a charming collection of historic buildings, each representing a chapter of Yosemite’s past. They weren’t all built here; rather, they were moved from locations in the mid-1900s when the demolition of John Muir’s cabin created new impetus for historic preservation. Strolling the site, you travel back to an era of log cabins, horse-drawn wagons, a blacksmith shop and a covered bridge, honoring the lives of the people whose hard work helped establish the park. Interpretive signs and self-guiding brochures tell its story. In the summer, wagon and horse rides are available.

Details: 8308 Wawona Road, near the grounds of the old Wawona Hotel (now Big Trees Lodge), Yosemite National Park; www. yosemite.com/what-to-do/pioneer-yosemitehistory-museum.

Visit the small cottage where Thomas Hill, a renowned 19th-century artist of the Hudson River School, painted the beauty and grandeur of Yosemite’s landscape. Along with other accomplished artists of his time, such as Albert Bierstadt and Thomas Moran, his paintings introduced the world to America’s natural world and helped preserve our first national parks. Inside, you admire its newly refinished Douglas fir floors, view pelts and antlers, admire reproductions of Hill’s art and learn about his role in promoting early tourism. The cottage also serves as the Wawona Visitor Center, offering wilderness permits and selling maps, books and souvenirs.

Details: Open daily 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m. at 8308 Wawona Road next to the old Wawona Hotel, Yosemite National Park; www.nps.gov/yose/ learn/historyculture/thomas-hill.htm.

Soak up history over a mixed drink at the bar of the former Ahwahnee Hotel, now The Majestic Yosemite Hotel.

You don’t have to be a registered guest to savor the lodge’s famed hardwood floors, Native American wall hangings, stained glass windows and stone fireplaces. Just pull up a chair at the bar and order the El Capitini — vodka, Cointreau, pomegranate and pineapple juices, topped off with Champagne. Created to commemorate the first ascent of El Capitan, it comes with a keepsake carabiner. Or you can order something more classic, like the Yosemite Gimlet, the tequila-based Continental Drift or hot chocolate with tequila. After a long hike, a drink here offers one of the loveliest views in the park.

Details: 1 Ahwahnee Drive, Yosemite National Park; www.travelyosemite.com/lodging/ dining/the-majestic-yosemite-hotel.

1 Pioneer Yosemite History Center

2 Thomas Hill Studio

The Pioneer Yosemite History Center lets visitors explore a collection of historic buildings from Yosemite National Park in the Wawona Pioneer Village.

Santa Barbara 6

On warm days

‘American Riviera’ is irresistible

BY JACKIE BURRELL

Santa Barbara weaves a seductive spell from its perch between majestic mountains and glittering sea. Wineries and vineyards unfurl across the rolling hills to the northwest, wooing wine lovers with pinot noirs and rosés. Along the coast lie lapping waves and soft sandy beaches, where you can watch the sun rise and set simply by turning your gaze.

Of course, you’ll be considerably more comfortable watching those rosy dawns and dusks if you’ve taken a few hours’ break to stroll the city, check out the downtown boutiques and sample the fare at the city’s bistros, cafes and wine-tasting rooms. Whether you’re a history buff or modern pleasure-seeker, a weekend getaway in June provides the perfect opportunity to explore Santa Barbara’s historic past and sundrenched present, while wining and dining in style.

It’s not difficult to figure out why this region is known as the American Riviera. Like its Mediterranean cousin, Santa Barbara with its hillside setting is kissed by sea and sky. Bistros and sidewalk cafes line the city

SANTA BARBARA

streets, and its vibrant arts scene keeps museums, galleries and theaters abuzz. You don’t have to wait for the glittering Santa Barbara International Film Festival, attended by Oscar front-runners each winter, to spot celebrities. We’d gawk at the glitterati who live here — this was California’s original filmmaking center, after all — but the cityscapes and ocean views are the real stars here.

Of course, the city didn’t always look like this shimmering Spanish vision, with its terracotta-topped white stucco walls, ceramic tileadorned stairs and vivid bougainvillea. When the downtown was rebuilt after a 6.8 earthquake devastated the city in 1925, town planners chose a Spanish Colonial Revival style, hoping to create a more architecturally cohesive town center. Today, State Street and its hidden paseos evoke a dreamy sense of history, a Spanish mirage of ranchos and fiestas — rather like a Hollywood Western with clean cowboys.

But the actual past can be glimpsed at more than a dozen destinations right downtown in the Pueblo Viejo (old town) District. Tourists may throng Stearns Wharf, which juts into the sea at the southern end of State Street, but starting a stroll a mile up this main drag allows one to explore the city and its history in the most delicious ways. Stroll the grounds of El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park and its adobe, which dates back to 1782, for a look at the last Spanish fortress of Alta California.

This being Santa Barbara, they do wine-tastings here, too,

Page 33: Santa Barbara’s Arroyo Burro Beach Park is a favorite with locals, who still call it by its century-old nickname, Hendry’s Beach.

At left: Santa Barbara’s redtiled roofs and Spanish-style white stucco buildings date back to the 1920s, when a massive earthquake forced the rebuilding of nearly the entire downtown.

in the original wine cellar of the 19th-century Casa de la Guerra, where Standing Sun Wines pours its Rhone varietals on Friday-Sunday.

A block away, the well-curated and nicely air-conditioned Santa Barbara Historical Museum gives visitors a tour of bygone eras, from Native American civilizations to the 18th-century Spanish conquest, the 19th-century arts colony and the early 20th century’s Flying A movie studios.

The Spanish-style Santa Barbara County Courthouse and its murals, tile work and sunken garden are simply too beautiful to miss — and there’s no trial watching or jury duty required. The top of the 80-foot clock tower offers some of the most beautiful views in the city.

Nestled among all these sights are the paseos, a dozen charming hidden and not-so-hidden pedestrian walkways, from the 1990s-era Paseo Nuevo shopping district to the 1920s-era El Paseo across the street. The latter is the perfect place to end an afternoon. The original 1922 Mexican restaurant — also called El Paseo — that inspired the architectural revival has played host to nearly a century of glittering fiesta celebrations and fed everyone from Clark Gable to Quentin Tarantino. And just steps away are half a dozen wine-tasting rooms, from Au Bon Climat to Margerum Wine Company.

It is here, along the twists and turns of this re-created Spanish street, that past and present are nestled side by side.

VISIT SANTA BARBARA

WHERE TO GET A GREAT TACO

Colors pop and flavors dazzle at this fantastic little taqueria in Santa Barbara’s sleek downtown Public Market, where eateries and food stalls share space with an olive oil shop and a wine bar. Corazon Cocina is the brainchild of Ramon Velasquez, a former sushi chef (yes, really) raised in Guadalajara. Everything here is fresh, seasonal and beautiful. Whether you order the Norteño ($7.50, grilled skirt steak) taco or the Ensenada ($5, beer-battered lingcod), be sure to top it at the salsa bar, where habaneropineapple salsa and other deliciousness await.

Details: Open daily at 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara; www.sbpublicmarket.com.

This stylish but casual counter-service spot has two locations downtown and one in Goleta, near UCSB, which just adds to the gastronomic fun. Here, you can go swanky with zucchini-blossom quesadillas ($10) or a 7-ounce Carne Azteca ($17). But we’re partial to the tacos. Order them by the platter ($16, grilled steak and chorizo) or singleton ($4-$5.50 for shrimp, chicken or steak). They serve beer and wine, too. Be sure to save room for flan.

Details: Open daily at 600 N. Milpas St. and 2911 De La Vina St., Santa Barbara, and the Camino Real Marketplace in Goleta; www.los-agaves.com.

Prefer your tacos with an icy margarita? This lively cantina, a block from Santa Barbara’s arty Funk Zone, is tucked inside a white stucco, terracotta-roofed building. The Spanish-style dining room and inviting patio offer table service, and the bar menu includes not only beer and cocktails, but 120 different tequila and mezcal options. This can be a spendy spot, but the lunch menu offers Tacos al Pastor with pineapple and avocado crema (two for $9.95) and Tacos del Mar ($12.95) that include a shrimp and a Baja-style fish taco. And on Taco Tuesdays, the unlimited make-your-own taco bar is just $9.95.

Details: Open daily at 330 State St.; www.casablancasb.com.

1 Corazon Cocina

3 Casa Blanca Restaurant and Cantina

2 Los Agaves

At Santa Barbara’s Casa Blanca, you can get fish tacos any night of the week, but Taco Tuesdays are an all-you-caneat, makeyour-own taco extravaganza.

SANTA BARBARA

SPECTACULAR BEACHES DONT MISS

1

Hendry’s Beach

Officially, this is known as Arroyo Burro State Beach. But locally, it’s always been Hendry’s Beach, a nod to 19th-century landowners William and Annie Hendry and their 12 children, who cavorted on this sandy strand where creek meets sea. It’s a beautiful spot, with soft sand, rolling waves and a Fido-friendly stretch where you can take your pup for a run. Parking is free. There’s an upscale restaurant, the Boathouse, with a take-out window so even overly sandy folks can grab clam chowder to go. But if you come at sunset and grab a perch in the dining room or at the swanky bar, you can enjoy a bloodorange margarita along with the view.

Details: 2981 Cliff Drive, Santa Barbara; www.countyofsb.org/parks and www.boathousesb.com.

2 East Beach

This beach near Stearns Wharf is popular with tourists and locals alike, thanks to its sandy shores, volleyball courts and picnic tabledotted lawns. The lively wharf scene is an undeniable draw, what with the restaurants, a wine-tasting room and the obligatory T-shirt and shell shops. But it’s the beach that bewitches. If you can tear yourself away from the rolling waves, you’ll find bicycle and fringed-surrey rental kiosks nearby and a long, winding bike path that invites exploration. Afterward, head for the serene Andree Clark Bird Refuge or the Santa Barbara Zoo.

Details: East Cabrillo Boulevard, Santa Barbara.

Above left: The Chromatic Gate sculpture at Santa Barbara’s East Beach is a popular spot for photographers and selfie photo ops.

Above right: The streets of Santa Barbara are transformed into a kaleidoscopic playground for three days in June when the Summer Solstice Parade and Festival arrives.

Summer Solstice Parade

What began as a small celebration in the sunken gardens of Santa Barbara’s famous courthouse has turned into a massive threeday festival every June. Crowds gather on State Street to watch giant puppets, elaborate floats and outrageous costumes on the Summer Solstice Parade route. And when the confetti has finished fluttering, Alameda Park becomes a sea of concerts, food booths, a beer garden and kid-friendly activities. Adding to the fun: From mid-May to mid-June, the city’s Community Arts Workshop holds classes on mural painting, mask making and large-scale puppet building, for anyone who wants to participate in the festival.

Details: Take a peek at the festivals and find out more atwww.solsticeparade.com.

SANTA BARBARA

Mendocino 7

Remote, romantic and a little reckless, untamed Lost Coast beckons in summer

BY KAREN D’SOUZA

The sheer unspoiled beauty of Mendocino takes my breath away every time. Standing on the headlands across from the New Englandstyle town, gazing out over the jagged black rocks that jut majestically above white-tipped waves, I’m heady with exhilaration. There’s genuine magic in this rugged and remote destination that never seems to lose its distinct character.

More than a place, Mendocino is a state of mind, a coastal oasis where the rest of the world feels so remote that reality slips away. No matter how crazy the real world seems to get, the Mendocino coast is so wild and untamed that I always come away feeling restored and renewed.

Escaping to Mendocino County is sublime in any season but the pleasures of the region are downright magical in July. Balmy summer temperatures also make this craggy patch of California coastline even more idyllic than usual. The warm weather might even entice you to sashay into the chilly surf instead of just immersing your feet in the powder-soft sand. The majestic Big River, which opens out to the sea on the south end of Mendocino, is one perfect spot to wade in. There’s nothing like getting your tootsies wet while the sea drums — the

Point ArenaStornetta Unit of the California Coastal National Monument offers visitors hiking paths and vistas from which migrating whales can be seen.

VISIT MENDOCINO

sounds made by offshore rock formations dotted with blowholes — joyfully pound in your ear.

That said, you still need to pack a scarf. In this panoramic county perched at the edge of the Pacific, there is nearly always a brisk morning fog to bask in as you walk along insanely picturesque paths that snake along the sea. Mendocino Headlands State Park, not far from the quaint center of town, is the ultimate place for a romantic stroll along the ocean or a picnic on a windswept bluff. That wonderful mixture of ocean spray and foggy mist is also one reason coastal Mendocino was spared during the October firestorms.

In fact, the sea breeze can get quite nippy in the evenings, which are often best spent sipping a local pinot noir while dipping in a hot tub with a stunning view of the crashing surf and a good book. In Mendocino, you never have to feel guilty for doing absolutely nothing at all.

But if you can pry yourself away from such meditative pleasures, there’s plenty to do. In July you might want to take in the Mendocino Music Festival or tuck into the World’s Largest Salmon BBQ in the scenic Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg where the sea lions frolic amid the boats.

Or if you’re feeling adventurous you can try what I did on a recent

trip: take a high-speed ATV ride. Zooming around the 2,000-acre Newport Ranch, wind whipping through my hair and ocean mist cooling my face, I dashed past free-roaming cattle and ancient redwoods and careened from birds squawking loudly in windblown cypress trees to shy little fawns hopping around, trying to hide amid the ferns at the ranch’s inn.

Indeed, thrills and contemplation can exist side by side here. Be forewarned, there are so many spectacular things to experience, from the dazzling gems of multicolored sea glass at Glass Beach, to the historic 131-year-old Skunk Train, that your bucket list will be endless and you must resist the pressure to try and see it all.

I’ve been in love with Mendocino for quite some time and my trips have taught me that the details of what you do amid the beauty of the north coast are insignificant. What’s important is that you fully immerse yourself in the gorgeousness of nature, the pristine beaches and virgin redwoods that make this region so unforgettable.

Perhaps my favorite Mendocino ritual is to stand high upon a seaside cliff, take a deep breath and savor one last look at the edge of world. That little piece of serenity is Mendocino’s most priceless souvenir.

3

WONDERFUL WINERIES

1 Lula Cellars

This place, one of the last stops as you head through the Anderson Valley as it snakes from the redwoods to the sea, is a must-sip. If you fancy pooches almost as much as pinots, this cozy tasting room has a canine greeter, Honey, a friendly yellow Labrador retriever with a dash of Rhodesian Ridgeback mixed in. Feel free to bring your own dog along and belly up to the bar for generous pours and lots of information about the art of dry farming. Dan Reed, who mans the bar, has a gift for gab and a nose for wine that makes this tasting room a pleasure to visit.

Details: 2800 Guntley Road, Philo; www.lulacellars.com.

2 Roederer Estate

Celebrated for its sparkling wines, this is the California outpost of France’s storied maison de Champagne, Louis Roederer. The understated elegance of this winery fits beautifully into the natural beauty of the Anderson Valley,

with its rolling hills, rustic red barns and windmills. Sip some bubbly, tuck into a “Boontberry Picnic” and bask in the magic of the grape as perfected by the house that created the legendary Cristal in 1876 for Alexander II, tsar of Russia.

Details: 4501 Highway 128, Philo; www.roedererestate. com.

3 Husch Vineyards

Banish all thought of wine snobs because Anderson Valley has folksy charm that can’t be beat. Founded in 1971, this intimate family-run operation is the vanguard — the oldest winery in this picturesque valley. At the time, the area was best known for apples and grains. Now the star of the show is definitely the fruit of the vine. Sustainability and organic methods have been a hallmark of this winery since the ‘70s. Note the quaintness of the tasting room, a pony barn that dates back to the late 1800s. Details: 4400 Highway 128, Philo; www.huschvineyards. com.

Vineyards cover the rolling hills along Highway 128 in the Anderson Valley, near Navarro.

LAURA A. ODA/BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

EXPERIENTIALHOTELSDON’TMISS

1 Inn at Newport Ranch

Spend a night in the Grove Suite, with redwoods holding up the vaulted ceiling. This is a luxury hotel nestled in a cattle ranch with 2,000 acres surrounded by crashing surf and giant redwoods. You can hike, bike and horseback ride at this memorable hotel, with its ocean views, fireplaces and hot tubs.

Details: 31502 Highway One, Fort Bragg, www.theinnatnewportranch.com.

2 Little River Inn

This classy 75-year-old, family-run Victorian hotel fronts the ocean. Porches with panoramic views, cozy furnishings and fireplaces add to the pleasures of this 225acre resort. Keep your eyes peeled for spouts at Ole’s Whale Watch Bar.

Details: 7751 Highway One, Little River; www.littleriverinn.com.

The Heath and Heather Collection at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens is most vibrant in the summer. In September 2010 it was recognized by the American Public Gardens Association as a “Collection of National Significance.”

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

The serenity of these public gardens, one of the few that front the ocean, dotted with intoxicating bursts of pink and orange and lavender blossoms, is a balm to the soul. A sanctuary from the real world, you can immerse yourself here in the beauty of nature. Even if you don’t know a succulent from a succotash, this 47-acre oasis will take your breath away. Stroll from the fragrant rose garden to the Cliff House, high upon a windy bluff along the sea. Take a class on how to forage for mushrooms. Learn the intimate relationship between the redwoods and the ocean breezes.

There are many ways to find your bliss in this botanical haven. Even children will delight in this garden sanctuary with its majestic natural beauty, engaging volunteers and delectable local

treats. And don’t worry: The homemade ice cream is worth the guilt.

Just don’t rush your visit to this jewel of the Mendocino coast, a garden so epic it was voted the fifth best in the nation by USA Today. Make sure you have time to meander and lose yourself in the scent of the heather or the whimsical flight of a butterfly. Time seems to bend in a place this magical and that’s the best kind of mental vacation.

Details: Open daily at 18220 Highway One, near Fort Bragg; www.gardenbythesea.org.

Hot firepits,

cool breezes invite one to live in the moment

BY LISA WRENN

If summer by the sea is the California dream, there’s nowhere better to be in August than the Monterey Peninsula.

Few places in the world offer so many different ways to be by the ocean. While it may be best known for marquee tourist attractions like Monterey’s world-class aquarium or Pebble Beach’s famed golf, the common denominator luring visitors to this patchwork of Central Coast cities is its spectacular, eclectic waterfront.

And here’s a paradox: Access to Monterey County’s 99-mile shoreline is so vast and varied that even at the height of summer vacation, you can be watching pelicans dive-bomb for dinner, or walking a seaside path as waves hurl themselves against the rocks below and realize, with some amazement, you’ve got the place to yourself.

That’s not to say it can’t get packed, as anyone who’s driven down Highway 101 on a Friday or trudged along Cannery Row knows. And you may face some tough choices. Want to get nose to nose with a sea otter? Sure, but from a kayak, or at the aquarium? Construct a killer sand castle? Yes, but on which beach? Simply gaze

out at the ever-changing water? Would you like that with big waves, rocks or both?

If you want to golf, shop for cheap trinkets or fine art, taste some of the state’s best wines and eat like a 1 percent-er, you can do that, too.

But it’s August, and we’ve come for the water, so let’s start from the top. Driving down from the Bay Area, the beauty begins the minute the blue Pacific first peeks out from behind the sand dunes.

Keep going past Marina, then Seaside and Monterey comes into view. If you’re ready for a stop, check out the four-story Monterey Tides, one of the few hotels in all of Northern California that’s actually on the beach. Recently renovated, the lobby and popular bar offer dramatic views of surprisingly large waves that seem close enough to crash through the floor-to-ceiling windows. If the ocean experience you seek requires falling asleep to the noise of thunderous surf, look no further.

But other ocean adventures beckon, so head into Monterey, where one of the many adventure companies will be happy to whisk you out onto the water. If you prefer sightseeing from the trail, bicycles and family-friendly surreys can be rented.

For a vintage California summer vacation experience, stroll along Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf, where you’ll find the expected mix of candy and T-shirt stores and barkers offering sips of chowder to lure you into restaurants with crab- and lobster-based menus. From there, it’s a 15-minute scenic walk to Cannery Row for more of the same, along with many odes to cherished local

Page 43: Kayakers are escorted by a flock of pelicans off Del Monte Beach in Monterey.

At left: The Monterey Harbor is part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, which is the largest marine sanctuary in the world.

son John Steinbeck. This is also where you’ll find the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which offers an entertaining and interactive crash course on ocean creatures, eco-systems and kelp forests.

From there continue south via the road or on the 23-mile Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail toward Pacific Grove, where old-school B&Bs in Victorian mansions with names like Seven Gables Inn overlook Lovers Point, with its sheltered cove, pool and volleyball courts.

Big Sur officially begins south of Carmel, but a shorter, more accessible version takes shape here. Walk the trail or, if you’ve got wheels, cruise the road south and take advantage of the many turnouts to scramble down steps or rocks and explore the tide pools.

After a few miles you’ll hit Asilomar Beach, whose huge rolling banks of waves are emerald green on a clear day. Here you’ll have another decision to make — whether to cut through the peninsula down to Carmel, or pay the $10.25 to take the 17-Mile Drive through the gated community of Pebble Beach and ogle the real estate as well as the $10 million-dollar ocean views.

No matter how you get there, no trip is complete without spending time in Carmel. Ready for a glass of wine? Again, hard choices -- which of the 15 tasting rooms to try? Maybe try a few. There are 72 art galleries to check out, too.

And when you’re weary of shopping, look west and head down the hill -- all streets lead to the water. This is one of the area’s best and most beloved beaches, distinctive for its white sand. Take off your shoes, go for a walk. After all, it’s summer.

VERN FISHER /MONTEREY HERALD

PLACESTOCOZYUPNEXTTOAFIRE

1 Hog’s Breath Inn

Owned by former Carmel mayor Clint Eastwood and filled with movie memorabilia, Hog’s Breath Inn is a veritable institution.

One of the town’s many hidden patios, you’ll wander down a path to discover an intimate, sunken, multilevel, tree-covered bar and restaurant offering all kinds of different places to cozy up to your own personal fireplace, or maybe find one to share. On rainy days grab a seat at the intimate inside pub to sip ale, whiskey or the cocktail of your choice.

Details: San Carlos Street, between Fifth and Sixth streets, Carmel; www. hogsbreathinn.net.

2 Restaurant 1833

This historic, gorgeous venue is set in one of Monterey’s oldest adobes which is where California’s first newspaper was published. Today it’s a popular date-night restaurant. The inside bar is cool, the food is high-end, but we’re partial to the outside bar which features several fire pits. Set off from a quiet street by a giant hedge, this soulful oasis features eclectic furniture groupings around big trees strewn with white lights. According to locals some of the cast and crew of HBO’s “Big Little Lies” spent time here, drinking hand-crafted cocktails with names like “Hungry, Hungry Hipsters” and “Cereal Killer.”

Details: 500 Hartnell St., Monterey; www.restaurant1833.com.

3 DIY on the beach

While bonfires are banned in many Northern California communities, they are allowed — if controversial — on certain public beaches, including Carmel Beach, and at Casa Verde Beach in Seaside. The adjacent beachfront hotel, Monterey Tides, offers bonfire packages for $20 (for $25 they’ll include all the makings for s’mores).

Details: Monterey Tides, under new ownership, has been extensively renovated to offer a family-friendly, upscale experience. Right off the lobby is the sleek Bar Sebastian with stunning views of the pounding Pacific. On the fourth floor is Vizcaino Waterfront Food + Drink, with yet another gorgeous vantage. 2600 Sand Dunes Drive, Monterey; www. jdvhotels.com/hotels/california/montereyhotels/monterey-tides.

Housed in an historic adobe, Monterey’s Restaurant 1833 features a cozy patio fire pit that is perfect for date night.

GET OUT ON THE WATER DONT MISS

1 Grab

a paddle

Rent a standup paddle board and you’ll almost feel like you’re walking on water as you glide over white sands toward the kelp forest. Rather paddle? Take a guided kayak tour or venture out on your own to get up close to sea lions and otters, pelicans, jellyfish, maybe even a dolphin or two.

Details: Adventures by the Sea rents paddleboards and kayaks, as well as bicycles and surreys from six area locations in Monterey and Pacific Grove. Paddleboards are $30 for a 2-hour rental, $60 for a 2-hour lesson or $50 for an all-day rental; kayaks are $35 for a single, $60 for a tandem or $60 per person for a tour (and you can keep the kayak for the rest of the day). www. adventuresbythesea.com.

2 Take a boat

Just about any kind of water excursion imaginable — sailing, whale-watching, fishing or trips on glass-bottom boats and fast-rafts, even sunset cruises — is available, most of them leaving from Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey. Details: Tickets for Princess Whale Watch tours are $45-$65 for a 2.5-hour tour, which leave from 96 Fisherman’s Wharf #1, Monterey; www.montereywhalewatching.com.

If you’re interested in sailing, locals rave about Bella by the Bay, steered by Captain Christian, an eco-minded sailor who offers several kinds of trips starting at $85 per person. The most popular is a half-day private eco-tour for up to six guests ($750). Bring your own drinks and snacks. All tours are booked by phone at 818-822-2390. 32 Cannery Row, Suite 8, Monterey; www.bellamontereybay.com.

Rocky Point Restaurant sits cliffside between Carmel and Big Sur and provides both panoramic windows and an open outdoor deck that overlook the Pacific Ocean.

Rocky Point

Rocky Point, a cliffside restaurant with an unfettered view of Big Sur, is an undiscovered treasure. A beautiful 15-minute drive south of Carmel, it’s practically invisible from Highway 1, which may be why we’ve never had to wait for an ocean-front seat. Once you cross the Garrapata Bridge, keep your eyes peeled — it’s less than a mile away and the sign pops up right after you round a large hill.

If the weather’s nice, choose a table or maybe an Adirondack chair out on the three-level deck. Staring out at the iconic coastline over eggs Benedict or a glass of wine at sunset, you might feel you’ve just scored the best table in the world.

Details: 36700 Highway One, Carmel/Big Sur; www.rockypointrestaurant.com.

Mendocino Crab, Wine and Beer Festival

Jan. 19-28

This scenic hamlet on the north coast draws visitors with a variety of festivals throughout the year, but its crab fest is one of the best of its kind, thanks to its all-you-can-eat cioppino and crab feeds, a crab-cake cook-off and the area’s excellent local wines and beer. www.mendocino.com

ScotsFestival on the Queen Mary Tentative dates: Feb. 17-18 (tentative) When you remember that Mary was Queen of Scots, it’s obvious why the famed ship, built on the bonny banks of the River Clyde and now permanently moored in Long Beach, is home to the state’s most unusual gathering of the clans. Expect all the usual competitions, music, games, haggis-eating and whisky-tasting opportunities, plus a Robert Burns Supper. www.queenmary.com

2018 festivals worth a road trip

In California, where there are nine festivals devoted to lavender alone, you’re never far from something that needs celebrating. But sometimes an event or theme or setting is so attractive, you might want to make a weekend or even a week of it. Here are 10 in 2018 worth a look.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY DAVE JOHNSON

Palm Springs Modernism Week

Feb. 15-25

What began as a single showcase now draws lovers of midcentury-modern architecture, design and culture from around the world for 10 days of activities that include film screenings, lectures, symposiums, art events, home tours, martini parties and even an ode to the beloved Airstream travel trailer. Sign up early enough and you can rent a gem of a private midcentury home. www.modernismweek.com

Pebble Beach Food and Wine

April 5-8

This is the younger sister of Aspen’s famous signature culinary festival, but with even better wine. Set on one of the most prestigious stretches of coastline in the country, the event draws thousands to sample offerings by more than 100 celebrity chefs and 250 wineries. Enjoy culinary demos, grand tastings, special events — such as last year’s Southern Breakfast with Hugh Acheson. www.pbfw.com

Paso Robles Wine Festival

May 17-20

Anchored in the Downtown City Park, with additional events hosted by wineries in the nearby rolling hills, this four-day eating and sipping extravaganza includes winemaker dinners, live music and barrel tastings. Buy tickets to the Grand Tasting early. www.pasowine.com

Festival Napa Valley

July 20-29

As a fundraiser for youth music programs, this 10-day festival offers everything from decadent winemaker dinners to free concerts in the park as it hops from high-end restaurants and prestigious wineries to concert halls. The price tag to some of its five-star events can be steep, but they offer a rare opportunity to see and even rub shoulders with international music superstars and other celebrities. www.festivalnapavalley.org

Valhalla Renaissance Faire

June 2-3 and 9-10

Renaissance fairs can be found closer to home, but why not hang out with the jousters and wenches on the shores of Lake Tahoe? Held at the Camp Richardson Historic Resort, this one offers four stages of entertainment, 900 costumed actors and more chances to buy food, drink and cool stuff than you can shake a turkey leg at. www.valhallafaire.com

Russian River Jazz and Blues

Mid-September

Over its 40-plus-year history this summer swan song has hosted legions of musical legends, including Etta James and Buddy Guy. The music is top-notch and the atmosphere is even better, with a stage set right on the beach. Pitch a tent under the redwoods and kayak, paddle boat or swim in the river while the bands play.

www.russianriverfestivals.com

Half Moon Bay Pumpkin Festival

Mid-October

This is the mother of all pumpkin festivals. In a state with this much agriculture, that’s no small feat. Cars line Highway 92 throughout the two-day celebration of all things October, a time of year when this Pacific coast-side town simply sparkles. This time why not avoid the traffic and make a weekend of it? www.pumpkinfest.miramarevents.com

Pageant of the Masters

July 7-Sept. 1

You’ve got two months to enjoy Laguna Beach’s Festival of the Arts, one of the best juried fine-arts shows in the country. But make plans now to buy tickets to the “Pageant of the Masters” in which theatrical magic and creative humans re-create a series of “living pictures” every night. In 2018, the tradition will celebrate 85 years with “Under the Sun,” evoking masterpieces by impressionists and plein air artists. www.foapom.com

San Diego 9

Endless summer meets Cat in the Hat, craft beer and cosmopolitan fun

BY JACKIE BURRELL

With perfect weather and soft, sandy beaches that stretch for miles, San Diego is a year-round tourist draw.

This sunny city boasts a vibrant downtown and hip neighborhoods that thrum with chic eateries, craft breweries and appealing little boutiques. They’re all the more appealing in September, when the summer vacation crowds have evaporated, along with the possibility of “June gloom” fog.

It’s the perfect time to discover the spirit that most characterizes this fizzy cosmopolitan city — its insouciance. San Diego is a land of effortless cool, where even the most serious locations come with elements of playful whimsy that can evoke childlike wonder in visitors of any age.

A giant Cat in the Hat sculpture, for example, stands ready for selfies outside UC San Diego’s Geisel Library, which was named, of course, for the creator of Things One and Two and fish red and fish blue. The building may be filled with stressed-out students, but Dr. Seuss’s namesake resembles an extravagant mirrored mother ship about to take flight. The upper floors offer some of the best views in the city, and if you decide to stroll from the library heading

San Diego might be a cosmopolitan city, but it also embraces elements of playful whimsy and was ranked one of the nation’s most fun cities by WalletHub researchers.

east, you’ll be walking atop a 560foot tiled snake.

Certainly, the city’s convention center bustles with busy business types, their delegate badges swinging wildly as they hustle along, briefcases in hand — except when the soaring building is filled with 130,000 Chewbaccas, Ming the Mercilesses and Targaryens. The comic book fans who launched San Diego’s epic Comic-Con 47 years ago have wrought something astonishing. Today, the nerdy convention fills not only this 460,000-square-foot exhibit hall every July for four days, but it’s so popular that Comic-Con will soon be a year-round attraction.

A Comic-Con Museum is scheduled to open in Balboa Park’s former sports-centric Hall of Champions in 2018, bringing a heady dose of pop culture and more than a few zombies to this city’s stunning hilltop museum hub. It will be a fun addition to a 1,200-acre cultural park whose Spanish Colonial Revival buildings, gardens and forests tempt visitors with 17 museums, the Old Globe theater and the San Diego Zoo, all of which follow a long history of whimsical decisions.

The park was actually the site of the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, whose dreams of being a world’s fair were dashed by San Francisco, when the city to the north nabbed the rights to host the official Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Undaunted by setbacks, San Diego city leaders made the insane-at-thetime decision to host a big bash

anyway, building grand Spanish Colonial structures complete with landscaped gardens and peacocks, and powering up little electric basketlike cars. Then they invited the world to come play.

While San Francisco’s expo lasted nine months, San Diego’s not only ran a full two years, but eight countries opened pavilions in its second year, making it a true world’s fair. Many of the attractions we enjoy here now date back to those days, from the San Diego Zoo — initially populated by exotic animals left behind by the expo — to the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, the splendid lath-covered Botanical Building and the California Building, which now houses the Museum of Man.

Add the latter to your must-do list. Actually, add them all. The current Old Globe lineup ranges from Shakespeare’s star-crossed lovers to Seuss’ “Grinch,” and the organ pavilion hosts free concerts on Sunday afternoons. At the Museum of Man, exhibits range from ancient Mayan artifacts and Egyptian culture to the monsters under your bed. By the time you’ve explored manticores, forest demons and kaiju — and all the sneaky ways to defeat them — you’ll be ready for the Beerology exhibit.

Psst, don’t miss the cannibal exhibit across the plaza. It’s illuminating, immersive and, in true San Diego style, whimsical. There’s a life-size game of Operation in there. You’ll never look at a funny bone in quite the same way again.

3PLACES TO GRAB A BEER

1

Stone Brewing

Founded in 1996, Stone is now one of the largest craft breweries in the country.

Beer Advocate named it the “all-time top brewery on planet Earth” — not once but twice. Any way you slice those suds, the brewery, its hoppy beer and its beer gardens are remarkable. And you have two ways to experience them on your next SoCal jaunt: At San Diego’s Liberty Station, where the digs include a farm-to-table bistro, beer garden, bocce courts and an outdoor cinema; or in Escondido, where the brewery offers tours and guided tastings ($5) and the beer garden keeps the suds and bites flowing.

Details: Open daily at Liberty Station in San Diego and at 1999 Citracado Parkway, Escondido; www.stonebrewing. com.

2 AleSmith

At 25,000 square feet, this is San Diego’s largest brewery tasting room — and it’s a local favorite. Sip your way through the full AleSmith lineup, from the Sublime Mexican Lager and X Extra Pale Ale to the brewery’s famous Speedway Stout. If you’re a Padres fan — or just love baseball — be sure

to check out the brewery’s Tony Gwynn Museum, too. Then hoist a San Diego Pale Ale .394 and drink a toast to the Hall of Famer’s batting average.

Details: Open daily at 9990 AleSmith Court, San Diego; www.alesmith.com.

3 Ballast Point

What began as a group of homebrewers who liked to tinker around has become one of San Diego’s most beloved breweries with a lineup of interesting twists on the beer theme, from hoppy porters to an amber ale brewed with proprietary yeast. Ballast Point was named after the San Diego promontory where long-ago ship captains loaded ballast to weigh down their ships for the voyage around Cape Horn. Now the brewery pays homage to that sea-going past with labels made by local artist and surfing enthusiast, Paul Elder. Check out the art, sip some Manta Ray Double IPA or Wahoo White. Don’t miss the Victory at Sea Beer Floats served at the brewery’s Little Italy outpost.

Details: Open daily at several locations in San Diego, Temecula and beyond; www.ballastpoint.com.

A child chases a sea gull on Coronado Beach, which was ranked among Dr. Beach’s top sandy destinations on his annual best beaches list.

PLACES TO TAKE THE KIDS DON’T MISS

1 San Diego Zoo

This phenomenal zoo has always been a popular spot with tourists and locals alike. But if you’ve already crossed it off your vacation bucket list, un-cross it now. This summer the zoo celebrated its centennial by opening a $68 million Africa Rocks exhibit, the largest zoo expansion in its history. The first stage opened in July and included a South African beach environment with 20 African penguins. A dozen leopard sharks — whose diet does not include penguins — found a home in a 200,000-gallon seawater pool. By September, the zoo had unveiled its new Madagascar section, complete with lemurs. It’s a must-see.

Details: Tickets $42-$52 for a one-day pass. Open daily at 2920 Zoo Drive in Balboa Park, San Diego; www.sandiegozoo.org.

2 Birch Aquarium at Scripps

This educational museum and aquarium in La Jolla is the public face of UC San Diego’s Scripps Institution of Oceanography and there’s something here for everyone. The aquarium offers a peek at more than 60 sea-creature habitats along the Pacific Coast, from Mexico to the Pacific Northwest. Explore Tide Pool Plaza, and gawk at the leopard sharks and moray eels in the two-story, 70,000-gallon Giant Kelp Tank. You can even take a virtual ride aboard Scripps’ research vessel, the RV Sally Ride, and see what seafloor mapping is all about.

Details: Tickets are $14-$18.50. Open daily at 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla; www.aquarium.ucsd.edu.

Kaaboo

We’ve all been to jammed music festivals where the sheer volume of the crowds keeps you far from the stage and the amenities are ... inconducive to lingering.

Here’s something completely different — Del Mar’s Kaaboo is held each September on the bluffs just north of San Diego. The three-day festival is billed as “a weekend escape,” the promoters say, that includes rock concerts — the 2017 lineup headliners were P!nk and the Red Hot Chili Peppers — plus comedy shows, contemporary art, gourmet fare and a spa, complete with massages and old-school shaves. As for the name, it’s what you yell with happiness.

Details: Three-day passes start at $209, and VIP packages range from $799 to (gasp) $15,000. Sept. 14-16 at the Del Mar Racetrack; www.kaaboodelmar.com.

Billy Wistrom checks out some of the marine life in a tank at Birch Aquarium at Scripps in La Jolla.

SAN DIEGO

Central Coast

Butterflies a boardwalk and beauty beyond belief

BY JESSICA YADEGARAN

There is so much to love about the beach cities of the Central Coast. From Oceano north to Avila Beach, this 12-mile stretch of coastline has a unique, untouched beauty that sets it apart from California’s more built-up beach brethren to the north and south. Pismo Beach, Arroyo Grande, Shell Beach and their neighboring seaside towns offer everything you need to relax and recharge.

Come October, you might find yourself particularly drawn to this bucolic coastline. The crowds have thinned, and instead of the buzz of tourists you hear the call of rock-loving shorebirds as they cling to the rugged cliffs and calm kelp beds of sleepy Shell Beach. October is a particularly exciting time for nature lovers to visit, as thousands of orange and black butterflies begin their migration to Pismo Beach’s eucalyptus-filled Monarch Butterfly Grove. These small coastal hamlets are the setting for epic hiking, biking and surfing, too. The Central Coast is home to several annual surf competitions and charity bike rides, including the Central Coast Surf Classic, which features both longboard and shortboard con-

tests on the historic Pismo Pier, or the SLO GranFondo, where cyclists of all levels participate in a 100-mile ride from the Avila Beach Boardwalk through the rolling hills of Edna Valley wine country.

A visit to the Central Coast is never complete without a dip into the food scene, which includes a plethora of top-rated restaurants in San Luis Obispo, home to Cal Poly State University, and Paso Robles just 30 miles north. Over the past 10 years, Los Angeles restaurateurs have flocked to the area, opening up critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurants, casual farm-to-fork cafes, Parisian-style bakeries and even a fromagerie. A whopping eight weekly farmer’s markets, from Arroyo Grande and San Luis Obispo in the south to Atascadero and Paso Robles in the north, feature seasonal produce and specialty, locally-made gourmet goodies.

All that delicious food is in great company, because as a wine region, San Luis Obispo County is among the largest and most diverse in California. A remarkable 200 of the 250 wineries and tasting rooms in the county are found in Paso Robles. There, the warmer climate and unique geography are optimal for producing big, bold red wines, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot and zinfandel, the area’s heritage wine varietal.

If you crave lighter wines — or a lighter, smaller wine experience — you can stick to the more manageable wine region in and around San Luis Obispo. The vineyards in this region unfold along the seafront side of the coastal Santa Lucia Mountains,

Page 55: Pismo Beach is a 60-acre regional beach with a pier and promenade. The pier is currently closed for renovations but is slated to partially reopen by mid-summer 2018.

At left: Avila Beach attracts visitors with its sandy beach and seaside town, featuring a half dozen wineries, restaurants, shops and an aquarium along five blocks.

with two small adjoining viticultural areas: the temperate Arroyo Grande Valley, which is ideal for balanced chardonnay and pinot noir, and the cooler Edna Valley, which has the perfect growing conditions for crisp aromatic white wines.

Perhaps no Central Coast town celebrates that unique combination of laid-back wine and beach culture better than Avila Beach. That has a lot to do with geography: because Avila faces south and is protected from fog by the San Luis Hills, it has an unusually gentle climate, with fewer cold days than neighboring beaches. Locals call it “the hole in the clouds.”

By October, the short drive to Avila is unpopulated and pleasant, winding through a lush agricultural valley lined with natural mineral hot springs. Blue skies welcome you, along with brightly-colored houses on the hill and a boardwalk lined with surf shops, casual eateries and wine-tasting rooms.

The Avila Wine Trail features eight small tasting rooms, most clustered together on or near the boardwalk, for a low-key and manageable day of wine-tasting. Sniff and sip while you ponder dipping your toes in the ocean.

NATURAL WONDERS

1 Monarch Butterfly Grove

In late October, the grove opens for an upclose view of these magnificent creatures, numbering more than 20,000 at a time during their four-month stay. There is nothing quite as breathtaking as seeing the orange and black monarch butterflies cluster in the branches of the eucalyptus trees near Pismo State Beach. During daily talks, volunteer docents explain how the butterflies cluster to shield themselves from the cold winters and explain that those visiting Pismo live up to six months, instead of the usual six weeks.

Details: Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; www.monarchbutterfly.org.

Mineral hot springs

Soothe your mind and muscles at the Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, which offers 23 open-air hot tubs that are naturally heated with mineral spring water and tucked into the lush, tree-filled hillside along Avila Beach Drive. Hot tubs are fenced off for privacy and accommodate two to eight people. The luxurious Oasis Waterfall Lagoon accommodates up to 20.

Details: Hourly rates vary. Avila Beach; www.sycamoresprings.com.

Above left: Astonishing numbers of butterflies flock to the Monarch Butterfly Grove in Pismo Beach.

Above middle: Head out from Pismo on Price Canyon Road and you’ll find a dozen wineries tucked away in the Edna Valley, including the rustic modern Kynsi Winery.

3 Pismo Preserve

The 900-acre preserve weaves 10 miles of trails through woodlands, past Pismo Creek and along coastal ridgelines that offer unparalleled views of the Pacific Ocean. But it is also a treat not easily enjoyed by everyone. That’s because the preserve on the northeast end of Pismo Beach is only accessible on weekly docent-led hikes, bike rides and horse rides. By the end of 2018, that will change as the Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo County completes construction of public amenities and will open the preserve to the public full-time. In the meantime, sign up for a docent-led hike or ride.

Details: The preserve is accessible from Highway 101 and Price Canyon Road; lcslo. org/events.

2

AWESOME FESTIVALSDON’T MISS

1 SLO GranFondo

Clip in at the Avila Beach Pier boardwalk for a bicycle ride through Edna Valley wine country toward the mountains surrounding Lopez Lake. You’ll be back in plenty of time to feast on local wines, beer and delicious bites. Three pace groups make it simple to set your goal — or just roll your way to bliss.

Details: www.slogranfondo.com.

2 Pismo Beach Clam Festival

More than 15,000 people flock to this free, three-day event on and around the Pismo Beach Pier. Events include a wine walk, surf showdown, clam bake and a contest for best clam chowder from local restaurants. There’s live music, a parade, a kids zone and more.

Details: Fees vary for specific events. www.pismoclamfestival.com.

Above right: ATVs traverse the dunes at Oceano Dunes, California’s most extensive coastal dunes and a favorite playground for off-road enthusiasts.

Oceano Dunes

Among the gorgeous beaches of the Central Coast, Oceano Dunes is epic, a vast expanse of powdery white sand molded into colossal towers by the wind. The dunes have long held a mystical power over the imagination. There was once even a utopian colony of artists here known as the Dunites.

You can feel the mystery as you meander through the Oceano Dunes Natural Preserve, a labyrinth of tall, undisturbed dunes leading down to the ocean. It’s a pristine paradise of sun, sand and sea. Or bop next door to the only state park where you can drive on the beach. There you can strap yourself into an ATV and go charging through the Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area. With the brisk ocean mist in your face and your heart in your mouth, you’ll soar over the tops of the dunes

as if your dune buggy were a bird, landing on the soft pillows of sand below with a woo-hoo and a thud. Revel in the freedom of roaring up and down some of the most majestic 80-foot dunes on the planet.

This is the ultimate thrilling beach experience, an extreme adventure best for those who feel the need for speed. Take note, it’s easy to get lost in this maze of dunes so keep your wits about you as you zoom.

Details: Oceano Dunes Natural Preserve, 100 Pier Ave., Oceano; www.visitcalifornia.com/ attraction/oceano-dunes-natural-preserve. SVRA, end of Pier Avenue, Oceano; www. parks.ca.gov/?page_id=406.

Gold Country 11

Autumn in the Sierra foothills is a time to shop, sip and slow down and smell the apples

BY GARY PETERSON

It wasn’t until I stopped to think about it that I realized how much of my free time over the years has been spent in the Gold Country. Placerville? Been there. New Melones? Skied that. I’ve gone houseboating on Lake Don Pedro, camped at Folsom Lake and Lake Camanche.

For years my family has celebrated the Fourth of July in a cabin beside a creek equidistant from Angels Camp and Murphys — the perfect staging area for day trips to Sonora, Jackson and Sutter Creek.

No matter the duration of the stay, or how long I’ve been away, it always calls me back.

Why? You have to work to find a housing tract. You have to work to find wireless and cell service. Meandering two-lane roads, ubiquitous throughout the area, force you to slow down and look around. A visit makes you feel as if you’ve been somewhere. And never is that feeling more welcome than in the dead of fall, when the region’s people, mild weather and slower pace of life act as de-stressors.

Example: A recent trip began with a visit to The Red Apple, a roadside bakery and produce stand on Highway 4 just below Arnold. On the menu were apple pie, apple turnovers, hot and cold cider, jams and jellies — all

A splash of fall color flanks the giant sequoias on a hiking trail in Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

LISA BOULTON/CALAVERAS VISITORS BUREAU

homemade. A small white dog wandered the grounds. “That’s Sammy,” a man said. “He’s older than sin.”

That seems fitting. After all, The Red Apple itself is venerable, dating back to 1890. It’s the kind of place that might not draw a second look in the Bay Area — after all, there is the commute to consider. But on a fall day, a chill in the air and nowhere to have to be, it’s a good get — surrounded by pines and festooned with red, white and blue bunting. One can almost hear John Mellencamp singing “Ain’t that America, for you and me ...”

Farther up the road just past Arnold is Calaveras Big Trees State Park. The trees are indeed plentiful and massive. Even the pine cones are supersized.

From an overlook, ridge after ridge of pines disappear into the distance. An ambitious trail, four miles with a 1,200-foot drop, is accessible near the overlook. A more gently undulating trail can be found near the visitors center. The scent of the pines and the long shadows of autumn combine for the kind of soothing milieu those of us in the workaday world seek but rarely find.

That’s not just vacation brain talking. It’s cliche to describe a time or place as a throwback to a simpler era. It rings true in Gold Country. Start with the historic downtowns in Sonora, Angels Camp, Murphys, Jamestown, Jackson and Sutter Creek that foster community events. Some are bigger than others but all seem to have a candy store, a

bookstore or an antique shop straight out of a period movie set. Wander into a thrift shop and you might spot the 1960s coffeemaker your parents used, a box of vintage beer bottles or rusty license plates, a long-forgotten childhood board game or honest-to-goodness vinyl records — is that Dean Martin on the cover?

The area also is wedded to its common heritage. It seems every town has something historic to explore. What looks like a children’s playground in Sutter Creek is instead a collection of mining tools, including rail cars and water cannons. Murphys has an old jail cell. Many Gold Country towns feature opportunities to pan for gold, among them Ironstone Vineyards in Murphys, which has gold panning on weekends.

One could be forgiven if it seems as if wine tasting has become the new gold in the Gold Country. You can’t swing a jumping frog on Main Street in Murphys without hitting one of its several wine-tasting rooms. Sutter Creek has a cheese-tasting room, and is among the Gold Country towns where one can find oil-tasting rooms, too.

Take it from someone who has played in the snow and baked in the sun on a ski boat in Gold Country: The temperate days and chilly nights of November represent the area at its best, with a glass of wine, a slice of cheese, a creek gurgling in the background and the promise of the holidays and community activities that bring them deeper meaning.

3

SPOTS FOR DRINKS OTHER THAN WINE

1 Murphys Pourhouse

A rotating selection of craft brews is available in 4-ounce samples ($4), full glasses ($10 or $16) or bottles ($5-$20). Cider and wine are also available, as are deli sandwiches. There is seating inside or outside in a family friendly bucolic beer garden complete with a corn hole bean bag toss and live music on selected dates. A small lounge area next to the bar is perfect for chatting or playing board games.

Details: Open six days a week (closed Tuesday) at 350 Main St., Suite B, Murphys; www. visitmurphys.com/murphyspourhouse.

2 Alchemy Wine and Beer Bar

This side-by-side market and cafe offers the largest selection of craft beers available in Calaveras County. Alchemy was created by Jason Wright (chef and co-owner of Bahama Billy’s Steakhouse and Bixby Martini Bistro, both in Carmel) and his wife Sandie. The varied menu (“elevated American comfort food”)

ranges from Nachos Forever! and fish tacos to glazed salmon, fried calamari and Dungeness crab cake.

Details: Open Thursday-Monday at 191 Main St., Murphys; www. alchemymarket.com.

3 Murphys Hotel Saloon

Breakfast, lunch, dinner and homemade pub grub is served at Murphys Saloon, tucked inside Murphys Historic Hotel, “in an atmosphere straight out of the 1800s.” The 30-foot long wooden bar made up of a single plank has been in place since 1856. Visitors can enjoy draft beer, cocktails and the warmth of a pot-bellied stove in the winter months. The saloon decor includes moose, elk and deer heads donated by local hunters, prints of Custer’s Last Stand, Sheridan’s Final Charge at Winchester and a 31-star U.S. flag. The atmosphere turns decidedly 21st-century on weekends, when there is frequent live music.

Details: Open daily at 457 Main St., Murphys (often standing room only from 9 p.m.-2 a.m.); www.murphyshotel.com/saloon.

A large display showcases pumpkins for sale at Zimmerman’s Hilltop Market off Highway 49 in San Andreas.

VINTAGE BOOK STORES

1 Hein and Company Used and Rare Books

When entering, be mindful of the wide booknado twisting from floor to ceiling. And while Hein & Co. has no shortage of titles, or reading nooks in which to browse through them, a most pleasant surprise awaits upstairs. There, a recent renovation has transformed what was a staid, static space into Baker Street West, a mock-up of Sherlock Holmes’ London. With “Wolfe and Boar Pub,” the “Toy Shoppe” and re-creations of the flats once occupied by Holmes and Dr. Watson, it’s the perfect setting for tea mysteries and book readings. Be sure to spend a little time with the cats who have the run of the place — Emily (Dickinson), typically upstairs, and Edgar (Allan Poe) who tends to favor the first floor.

Details: Open daily at 204 Main St., Jackson.

2 Legends Books, Antiques and Old Fashioned Soda Fountain

This makes a good first impression with its yesteryear-themed ice cream shop at the front of the building — featuring carved wood accents, brass rail, player piano and large historic cash register. From there, up and to the left is an antique store. Right and down the stairs are cases and cases of books. Continue toward the back and ... is that the sound of running water? It is. Through a cutaway in the back wall, a small rivulet of water trickles down over rocks and stones. A sign there bears the legend of Rocky, a gold miner who didn’t have much luck until he tossed a penny into a creek.

Details: Open daily 11 a.m.-5 p.m. at 131 S. Washington St., Sonora.

DON’T MISS

Above left: Historical displays with antiques and books are in the basement of Legends Books in Sonora.

Above right: The world’s largest crystalline gold leaf specimen is on display at Ironstone Vineyards in Murphys.

Ironstone’s Crown Jewel

They call it the largest crystalline gold leaf specimen in the world, and who’s to argue? On display inside a walk-in vault in the Heritage Museum and Jewelry Shoppe at Ironstone Vineyards in Murphys, it weighs 44 pounds and is 98 percent pure. Discovered by the Sonora Mining Company on Christmas Day in 1992 — “Oh, Santa, you shouldn’t have!”

— the specimen is the largest piece of gold mined in North America since the 1880s. According to a pamphlet available in the museum, crystalline specimens can sell for as high as $6,000 per ounce. That would peg the value of this bauble at around $4 million.

Details: Heritage Museum and Jewelry Shoppe, Ironstone Vineyards, 1894 Six Mile Road, Murphys. www.ironstonevineyards.com.

San Francisco 12

Let it snow elsewhere — the City rocks the holidays

BY ANGELA HILL

The warmest season you’ll ever know is December in San Francisco. Not so much the temperature, but the festivities, the lights, the grand hotels, the drag queens performing “The Golden Girls: The Christmas Episodes.” That’s sure to make you warm all over.

The City by the Bay is a favorite, quirky and, yes, expensive place to visit any time of year, but it’s something extra special at the holiday season. When the fog curls over the Golden Gate, it swaddles the city in a magical calm. Streetlamps, ferryboat beacons, the holiday lights that rim the Embarcadero Center towers like a vertical game of “Tron” –all are amplified with glowing coronas.

Our fog is the closest we get to a winter wonderland. It’s moist, it’s chilly, it’s gray as the driven-over snow, but you never have to shovel 2 feet of it off your windshield. Against this cotton-ball backdrop, cable cars twinkle with tinsel and wreaths. If you’re lucky, your conductor will clang out a ringing endorsement of “Jingle Bells” as you climb halfway to the stars along the Powell Street line, up to Union Square and Nob Hill. There, magical realms of holiday warmth, glitter and elegance are just a revolving door

away, free for all to view. From an enchanted-castle confection in the lobby of the Westin St. Francis to the two-story gingerbread house at the Fairmont, the city’s grandedame hotels are packed with extravagant decorations to lift the coldest of hearts.

Of course, Union Square is holiday central, despite some ongoing construction. Every year, there’s a giant Christmas tree glittering with 33,000 LEDs, a 25-foot glowing menorah where people gather for the annual Hanukkah Festival of Lights. There’s music from the San Francisco Boys Chorus, the Oakland Interfaith Gospel Choir and an ice rink in the middle of it all. Fog or no, the temps are often balmier in December than they are in the socked-in summer months. But even on a nice day in this town, always bring a jacket to fend off the evening chill.

People may be shopping more online, but window watching at the big, glamorous stores is still tradition. Saks Fifth Avenue never disappoints with stunning arrays. Diminutive diamond chandeliers twinkle in Tiffany & Co.’s tiny jewel-box windows. (Stop next door at Williams Sonoma for a free sample of hot cider.) And a definite must-see are the SPCA holiday windows at Macy’s at the corner of Stockton and O’Farrell, where adoptable, adorable kittens and puppies frolic in festive displays.

But holiday spirit is not just downtown. San Francisco’s many neighborhoods put their own stamp on this festive season: The Mission, Chinatown, Dogpatch, the Sunset, even Fisherman’s Wharf where a cup of shrimp cocktail from a sidewalk stand can bring a singular sense of joy.

In Cow Hollow, Union Street shines with its annual Fantasy

of Lights. On the cusp of Hayes Valley, small children dressed in velvet and frills make their way to the War Memorial Opera House for their first glimpse of sugar plum fairies, a regal Mouse King and a magical Nutcracker.

In recent years, the city has indeed been changing with the influx of the tech industry. It’s brought a new vibe, a new energy and plenty of bustle wherever you go. So be prepared for the hustle of traffic, lines at restaurants, packed cable cars, crowds at events. Take public transit whenever possible.

Even so, distinctly San Francisco elements remain: Things like “The Golden Girls” parody, irreverent Beach Blanket Babylon shows and Kung Pao Kosher Comedy on Christmas Day – Jewish humor at a Chinese restaurant. The vibrant arts community shines, with light sculptures all around town. And the city is a virtual box of chocolates, from classics like Ghirardelli to today’s bean-to-bar artisan chocolatiers.

For Bay Area locals, instead of the usual day trip or in-and-out for a specific event, consider a more immersive experience. Stay a night. Splurge on a fancy dinner at Jardinière — an SF classic now in its 20th year — or take high tea at The Palace Hotel, or an elegant lunch in the Rotunda restaurant atop Neiman Marcus where every meal begins with the traditional puffy popover with strawberry butter.

And if the holidays aren’t your thing at all, December is a fine time to visit some of the popular tourist attractions while everyone else is in merry madness mode — the museums, Golden Gate Park, Alcatraz and more.

That should keep you busy ‘til the chilly days of summer.

Page 65: A firehouse along the Embarcadero is lit up with Christmas lights in San Francisco.

At left: San Francisco’s Pier 39 dresses up for the holidays with, among other things, a grand tree in the welcome plaza.

UMMMM, CHOCOLATE

1 Ghirardelli Chocolate

You can’t beat a classic. Beneath the glittering Ghirardelli sign that’s graced many a postcard, the chocolate company has been In business for 160 years and they know what they’re doing. At the old-fashioned soda fountain, soda jerks in crisp white hats go speeding around, compiling mountainous sundaes and splits. Plus there’s the retail shop with walls of everything from Dark Cocoa Nibs to Cherry Tango bars for the perfect gift. Even if you just walk in the door, you’ll be handed a sample. And the square itself is filled with holiday spirit, a towering sparkling tree, special events and more.

Details: Ghirardelli Square at Fisherman’s Wharf; www.ghirardelli.com.

Within this Mission District storefront is an expansive haven of dark and bitter goodness, where its small-batch single-origin chocolates are made. It’s possibly the only chocolate company in the Bay Area that offers factory tours right now. The front of the building is decorated to look like a chocolate bar studded with treats, cookies, confections and hot chocolate. There are classes and workshops available for adults and Oompa Loompas, I mean, children. Dandelion also has a stand at the San Francisco’s Ferry Building Marketplace. And for the holiday season, there’s usually a pop-up shop and hotchocolate stand on San Jose’s Santana Row. Details: 740 Valencia St.; also at the Ferry Building, at The Embarcadero and Market Street; www.dandelionchocolate.com.

Above left: Fog City News in San Francisco’s financial district is known for its collection of more than 200 kinds of ultra-premium chocolate bars from around the world.

Above middle: An “Urban UFO’s” Lightmobile is a light sculpture from the Illuminate SF organization.

3 Recchiuti Confections

Michael Recchiuti, often called the Picasso of chocolatiers, gets creative with artistic chocolates and truffles almost too beautiful to eat — almost. He’s known for repurposing a vintage, children’s spin-art machine, placing a chocolate bar inside and setting it whirling. Then he drizzles layers of tinted cocoa butter on top for an edible work of art. You probably know his fetching chocolates and truffles from the flagship booth at the Ferry Building Marketplace, but he and co-founder Jacky Recchiuti also reopened their renovated shop named theLab in the Dogpatch district.

Details: Ferry Building Marketplace on The Embarcadero at Market Street; theLab, 801 22nd St.; www.recchiuti.com.

2 Dandelion Chocolate

SAN FRANCISCO

THE LIGHTS FANTASTICDONT MISS

1 Festival of Light

The Illuminate SF organization showcases the city’s public light-art and sculpture installations year-round, but there’s never a better time to see the works than during the Festival of Light, held from Thanksgiving to New Year’s Day in 12 neighborhoods.

Details: www.illuminatesf.com.

2 Union Street Fantasy of Lights

Thousands of holiday lights set off the Victorians and shops that line this Cow Hollow district street. Santa makes an appearance, along with jugglers, ponies dressed as reindeer, horse-drawn carriage rides, face painters, and an “elf hunt” in various shops.

Details: Kicks off Dec. 2; Union Street and Fillmore Street; www.sresproductions.com/ events/union-street-holiday-program.

Fairmont Hotel

If you do nothing else holiday-related this December, get thee to the gingerbread house at San Francisco’s Fairmont hotel. It’s simply festive overload, in the best possible way. The 22-foot-tall, two-story house in the Grand Lobby will knock your Christmas socks off. It’s huge. You can even walk through the middle of it and look in the windows to spy a mini kitchen with cookies ready to enter an oven, a giant nutcracker and a train circling through a snowy village.

This delectable edible abode (don’t nibble it, though — Santa frowns on that) is crafted fresh each year by the hotel’s culinary and engineering teams, with more than 7,500 baked gingerbread bricks, hundreds of pounds of candy and more than a ton of royal icing. The sweet, sweet cookie aroma fills the lobby.

But that’s not all. There’s a towering, glittering tree, every banister in the lobby is clad in lights and foliage, reindeer stand atop the registration desk and there’s a kids area called the North Pole Nook complete with a gingerbread doghouse. For even more holiday swank, make reservations for one of hotel’s holiday tea times, available Nov. 24 through Jan. 1.

Details: It’s free to view the gingerbread house and decorations. The display opens Nov. 25; 950 Mason St. Check the website for pricing on holiday teas and for room rates; www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco.

Above right: Executive chef J.W. Foster adds icing to the interior of a 22-foot high gingerbread house in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco in 2010.

Napa and Sonoma

Rising from the ashes: After October fires, the Wine Country uncorks a bright future

BY CHUCK BARNEY

As October’s monstrous wildfires wreaked death and destruction upon California’s fabled Wine Country, I found it difficult to wrap my head around the idea that a place associated with so much happiness was suffering so much heartache.

Many of us in Northern California harbor a special affection for America’s most famous wine-growing region — and it’s an affection that goes well beyond the beverage that writer Robert Louis Stevenson called “bottled poetry.”

Napa and Sonoma, after all, are where cherished memories are made: It’s a gourmet meal with family and friends; a romantic weekend getaway for two; a bicycle ride along oak-lined roads; a bird’s-eye view from a hot air balloon; a hike up Mount St. Helena; a daughter’s fairy-tale wedding… .

And, OK, yes, it’s a glass of sumptuous, well-aged zinfandel.

The point is we feel fiercely connected to — and protective of — this pastoral region that is like no other in the world. So when news accounts delivered ominous images of blackened hills and wineries engulfed in flames, we naturally feared for its future.

But it wasn’t long before we were reminded that the area is populated with stout-hearted people who have stood up to earthquakes and floods and previous fires. People who are as resilient as the gnarly and durable grapevines that blanket the hillsides.

And we were also buoyed by the fact that the Wine Country always has been a place where residents pull together in the face of adversity. Talk to veteran vintners and they’ll regale you with stories about

Firefighters extinguish hot spots on the side of a hill near White Perry Vineyard while battling the Nuns Fire in Sonoma in October.

the time their tractor broke down and a competing vintner saved the day by loaning them the needed equipment.

As Rob Mondavi Jr., grandson of the late Robert Mondavi, puts it: “This is how we care for each other. It’s a beautiful, open-door tradition that has existed for decades.”

So, as the region attempts to rebound, the overwhelming sentiment seems to be one of hope. And you tend to believe guys like vintner Doug Shafer when he says, “We took a gut punch, but we’re still standing and we’ll be OK.”

A few days after most of the blazes had been contained, I joined local winemaker Alison Crowe on a drive around Sonoma and Napa counties. We came across charred fields and the skeletal remains of structures -- images that you might find in a grim, post-apocalyptic movie.

But we also motored down a stretch of Highway 29, and other places, that were completely untouched by fire. And past huge vineyards that remained, in Crowe’s words, “islands of awesomeness.”

These sights were certainly encouraging for a region that will need visitors now more than ever to boost its economy, and its morale. Hopefully, these images will be conveyed to skittish outsiders who gazed in horror at images of devastation and came away thinking that California’s beloved Wine Country had been wiped off the map.

“We’re going to regroup and help those who need it,” Crowe insisted. “Then, we’re going to move forward. It’s what we do.”

And when next spring arrives? “The welcome mat will be out and it will be beautiful and green again.”

JOSE CARLOS FAJARDO/BAY AREA NEWS GROUP