Artwork - Muartive. Un mucchio di orologi

A R T W O R K di Alessandro Brunelli

Muartive (Murat Yıldırım, Istanbul, Turchia, 1989) Il tempo è un’illusione, 2020, 3D Art, 2.000x2.500 px

UN MUCCHIO DI OROLOGI AMMASSATI che segnano

tutti la stessa ora: l’artista turco Muartive raffigura l’effetto sliding doors. Scelte e destino disegnano infatti il nostro qui e adesso, a discapito di storie mai nate e momenti mai vissuti.

Revisiting the past– via a combination of classic garments, technical details

New York and its pulsating energy. This city, the acknowledged capital of the new, has provided the inspiration for a collection by Antony Morato, which has just celebrated its 15th anniversary. It’s a journey through space and time, from the 1960s to the 1990s, with a focus on the 80s and that decade’s Pop culture, showcasing its art, music, architecture, comics and games – all channelled by this season’s iconic garments like the

psychedelic viscose mix shirt, the oversize t-shirts in technical fabric, the slimline black and white houndstooth jacket and the grey and blue fleece in «teddy bear» plush fabric. Going back 40 years means there’s also a capsule collection dedicated to the writer and painter Jean-Michel Basquiat, with aggressive brushstrokes adorning colourful t-shirts.

BELVEST

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With these fabrics, jackets are forever

These times are so unpredictable – the fashion world finds itself in need of comfort clothes, long-lasting, soft and sustainable garments that reject the idea of short-term, throwaway wear. They’re well aware of this at Belvest, a clothing company founded in Piazzola sul Brenta, Padova, in 1964. Their jackets are eternal – take the One and half, for example, as roomy as a cardigan, or the Urban jacket, a jacket-shirt in superfine air light double wool. The fabrics are the real spirit of this collection, starting with naturally soft cashmere in a shifting range of different patterns – and certainly not forgetting the wool-cashmere and woolsilk mixes, plus the soft felts. The collection is rounded off by the textured and contrasting ties, natural cashmere scarves and Jersey shirts with Koreanstyle collars.

BIKKEMBERGS

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Maritime details and constructive elements

A port, such as the one at Antwerp, Belgium, the city where the Bikkembergs brand was launched: that busy maritime setting is the main inspiration for this collection. A series of distinctive elements evoke a dockside location – chains, cranes and containers form a background for every garment and accessory, like the rather chunky sweaters

with a mix of stitches that recall stevedores’ uniforms. Many items are drawn from the brand’s archives – the outerwear, for instance, as in the shearling-lined peacoats and woollen cloth jackets. The colours are bright and lively in shades of orange, blue and green, while eye-catching graphics provide an entertaining reference to the world of videogames. Footwear, underwear, jewellery and accessories in fabric and leather complete the look.

Soft, comfortable fits. And, as of now: denim

Elegant trousers for men, in all their various expressions. Briglia 1949, a company based in Campania, Italy (established out of the Carillo family’s passion, and currently distributed through 500 stores worldwide), offers a collection that’s fundamentally classic but bold in its details: the pieces are innovative, ethically responsible (many of the fabrics are regenerated, for a new lease fo life), often

with unconventional, sometimes vibrant, colour combinations. Some aspects, however, form a constant thread through all the collections and have now become this brand’s genuine «non-negotiables»: for example, the use of fine, high-quality fabrics (such as cashmere) and the softer, more comfortable fits which are now the hallmark of the Briglia man. Now there’s also denim (featuring the new DNM customization), for those looking to be a little more daring without losing that tailor-made look.

CLAQ

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Knitwear for a clean look with refined finishing touches

For the Bosso family, at the helm of the Airon Group, a high-quality knitwear company based in Barletta, CLAQ is a «fashion classic» brand – this description best fitting their forte: combining basic garments with more extravagant knitwear in bright emerald, fuchsia and yellow. This twofold approach is also reflected by the materials used: select yarns rub shoulders with recycled materials restored to a new splendour. Technology has an important input, with Shima Seiki Wholegarment

knitting machines that enable the company to create seamless garments with no stitching. One of the knitwear musts for this season is a jacket-shirt in superfine merino wool where the knit and purl stitch creates a chunkier look and emphasises its diamond pattern.

FILSON

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Made to last: outerwear tested in the field

It was created in 1914 by the people at Filson, a company founded in 1897 in Seattle, Washington, to equip gold prospectors heading for the Yukon and all those working in the forests and wild outdoor spaces. The Mackinaw Wool Cruiser is one of the brand’s most iconic outerwear garments, and this season it’s

made in a wool patchwork sourced from the brand’s archives. Filson, still based in Seattle and distributed in Italy by WP Lavori in Corso, a company founded forty years ago by Cristina Calori and her father Giuseppe, has just one aim: producing nexarly-indestructible outdoor garments and accessories. The Mackinaw Wool Cruiser is joined by the rain, snow and abrasion resistant Field Coat, padded vests and multi-layer jackets in technical fabrics.

Scarves and ties. A classic exotic inspiration

It’s now an established trend: welcome back, classic elegance! And what could be more classic than a men’s scarf or a well-tailored tie? It’s something that’s well-known to Fiorio, a Milanese company founded in 1946 that began by sewing foulards, and soon made the logical move to ties. Yarns like pure cashmere or silk-cashmere blends dominate in the scarves, while the Paisley or geometric prints draw inspiration from

the brand’s archive. The ties, hand sewn with seven pleats, or more on request, feature wool, cashmere and even knits for a more casual look. There’s also a more eclectic capsule collection – a drawing of an island of New Guinea has been sourced from the Fiorio archive and features on a scarf, jacket, baseball cap and bathing costume.

HERNO

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Innovation, tradition and versatility: one brand, three dimensions

Three macro-themes, three different ways of interpreting coats, padded jackets and raincoats. Herno, a leading luxury outerwear manufacturer for over 70 years, has chosen three moods for its collection. It starts with the Luxury line, using sophisticated production methods and the finest yarns like cashmere, cashmere-silk and water-resistant treated silk. Next is the Core line – now we’re plundering the brand’s archive and are in the sportswear arena, with garments in technical fabrics like neoprene and nylon, suitable for all temperatures. Then there’s the minimalist Fashion line, the most surprising, with the Pop Mountain ’80 down jackets in super padded, oversized, coloured patches and bright colours. Finally, this season Herno has also focussed on lifestyle with pants, knitwear and accessories. Also at Pitti, Herno Globe, 100% sustainably produced and genderless, and Laminar, with high sports performance and low temperature protection.

HÈSKIMO

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Ready for the cold, from urban life to the wild North

Hèskimo is inspired by the passion of the Bosso family for the mountains and technical clothing. It’s one of the new Airon Group brands, launched as a knitwear manufacturer and now a company that exports its garments across Europe and to Japan. The brand’s name is a tribute to the Inuit Eskimo people and their resilience, so the star item in the collection brand is the parka (dubbed

«eskimo» in Italian), now given an ultramodern interpretation – it’s reversible, with triple-layer GS-Tech fabric resistant to a 10,000 mm water column (the scale used to measure the water pressure a fabric can handle before it starts absorbing it). It has padding in Sorona, 100% recycled breathable polymers. There’s also a padded garment capsule with 600 fill power padding – that is the measurement unit indicating the jacket’s exceptional warmth.

Classic pullovers – but only in appearance

The winter seas and their thrilling energy. Nature in all its great beauty in the coldest season, too – this is the inspiration for Impulso, a brand from Maglificio Liliana, the knitwear manufacturer, founded in Montichiari, Brescia, in 1969. Nature is also reflected by the range of colours chosen for this season’s garments – optical white, country green and almost endless variations on a theme of blue. Although the sweaters and pullovers have a classic look, the

materials used to create them conceal a high-tech soul – the ribbed pullovers are enhanced by a Teflon treatment providing rain resistance, and the garments in thermocomfort, made using a double weave with wool on the outside and a cotton interior, are comfy and practical. As for the Hybrid jacket in technical fabric, the knitted sleeves can be removed to transform the garment into a soft gilet.

LEBOLE GREEN

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Men’s classics in bright, lively colours

No greenwashing allowed– instead, a serious, well thought-out commitment enhanced from collection to collection. Also present this season, the Lebole Green capsule is an eco-sustainable fashion project based on the re-use of fabrics, regenerating them in line with the concept of the circular economy. The result is a series of garments that seek to last almost forever, not wearing out within the space of a few seasons. The focus is on ecoawareness, even for the details adorning the garments like the buttons, labels and even the hangers. It’s reminiscent of the idea of the favourite jacket, the classic, well-sewn go-to garment that’s always worn with pleasure. This one is made using regenerated wool from old fabrics brought back to new life. All shaped, of course, by Lebole’s Italian sartorial tradition and elegance.

LORENZONI

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A yarn story: effects, dyes, methods

Ideas inspired by the earth and nature: the beauty of Tuscany, with its colours, countryside and relaxed surroundings. All this is embodied in the knitwear collection by Lorenzoni, a brand that’s part of Maglificio Liliana, with a dazzling array of cashmere sweaters, turtlenecks and pullovers, all 100% recycled and with an emphasis on environmental responsibility. Plus the cashmere-silk or wool-cashmere blends and ultrasoft merino wool. Although their construction looks simple, in fact these garments include some complex features like the vanisé effect that provides a basic depth, a technique where the sweaters are created by incorporating two yarns of different colour or material. The most representative item is the full-fashioned cable and diamond-knit pullover, in a purple shade. It is garment-dyed with crater neck and no stitching.

LOTTO LEGGENDA

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Sporty, freestyle elegance. Nostalgic? No way!

It’s all about the legend. The brand’s deep ties to the world of Italian sport - most notably its basketball scene in the golden years from the 1970s onwards, when champions like Mike D’Antoni, Dino Meneghin and Toni Kukoc, and teams like Olimpia Milano and Benetton Treviso, wore the sneakers with their unmistakable double diamond. The Hoop Stars sneakers celebrate this legacy, in

both the low-cut Rub version and the newer High models with their more basketball-oriented look. Both have a leather upper and distinctive features like the raw-cut diamond. The sole has a used effect that emphasises the sneaker’s gutsy character. There are two disposable materials, a mix of suede and leather and craquele leather.

PAOLONI

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Contemporary heritage: a mix of modern and traditional

The Paoloni style can best be described as neo-sartorialism, as the Marche-based brand combines a renewed interest in the history of men’s high tailoring, offering a more eclectic, contemporary interpretation. This philosophy, traditional and modern at the same time, is embodied in every garment in the collection, from the classic doublebreasted, four-button power suit with a softer fit and proportions in a slightly 1950s style, to the broken suit that becomes oversize and deconstructed and

the elegant yet highly technical outerwear. The blazer, this brand’s hallmark item, is now an interesting hybrid between a double-breasted jacket and reversible cloth peacoat. But the overcoat is the most surprising garment – the classic loden coat is now in wool, with contrasting micro-checks in black and vicuña brown, which transforms, softens and enfolds.

PIACENZA 1733

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Tradition and quality combine to create the future of cashmere

Looking to the past as a foundation for the future, reconnecting with nature whilst appreciating all the comfort of simple yet luxurious pieces. Such as the knitwear garments offered by Piacenza 1733, the historic Italian wool mill that’s become synonymous with excellence throughout the world. In this collection the

volumes are softer, the yarns are blended to create a stunning colour palette that rouses the senses, extending from darker tones such as midnight blue through to cobalt, magenta, cerulean and on to forest green. Naturally, cashmere, the hallmark of the brand, features prominently, but fabric blends, such as cashmere and silk, twisted yarn made from worsted merino wool, or the «furry» alpaca, also pique the interest. However, the immediate standout must-have item is the camel-coloured coat, pure and simple: 100% cashmere and as warm as a blanket.

PINEIDER

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Well-mannered luxury, pleasure in fabric and playfulness

Passion is the inspiration, a passion for games as well as sports. Pineider’s Passion Box range is dedicated to these two pursuits. Pineider, a company with an emphasis on artisanal content, was founded in Florence in 1774 – at first it was a small stationer’s, then its founder, Francesco Pineider, began to develop prints, working on relief motifs and creating monograms, and now leather goods have been added to the range of products on offer. The Passion Box cabinets, to which the fuori-Pitti event at the brand boutique in Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli is dedicated, can be bought in the company’s monobrand boutiques in Italy and throughout the world. They house everything required for a perfect game – like a Saffiano leather playing card set for a session of burraco, including a notebook for keeping track of scores, or the poker set with chips in the same resin material as the brand’s pens.

RICHARD J. BROWN

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The best in raw materials for Made in Italy products

Cashmere: soft, warm and precious. Eclectic, too, no longer exclusively for sweaters but also embellishing jeans and jackets. The prestigious yarn can be found in the Richard J. Brown collection’s fivepocket Tokyo trousers, providing outstanding comfort, and the Steve jacket, light yet ideal for the coldest days. Not forgetting the denim with the exclusive copper selvedge along the borders of the fabric and the soft, comfy Jersey denim. The colours are an ode to Nature, evoking wood, bamboo, cork and hemp. An extra touch is provided by the rectangles of fabric above one of the back pockets on the jeans bearing the brand name – made in suede or flannel to make RJB denim garments truly unmistakable.

XACUS

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Padded fabrics, flannels, woollen cloth, Jersey, cotton piquet and more

Can a shirt be classic and modern at the same time? Is it possible for it to adapt to indoor and outdoor settings? The answer is «yes» for all garments bearing the name of Xacus, a company founded in 1956 that has picked up much from the Vicenza textile district’s manufacturing heritage and tradition. The short in question is their new arrival – in woollen cloth, it has oversize proportions and is perfect for days in the office or weekends in the open air. It is also line with the brand’s new philosophy of traditional garments whose cut, materials, colours and texture look to the future – which includes all the yarn-dyed shirts, stripes and checks, as well as the jersey fabric used for the brand’s knitwear, along with cotton piquet, the wool mix and and the warm, soft cashmere mix. Another stalwart garment: the tailor-washed shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons.

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