COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
First edition April 2006 Second edition June 2010 Third edition February 2015
ISBN 978-88-98609-07-9 Copyright Š 2015 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10. www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.
Cover image
Linda Grossi, Cristina Isabel, 7a, Padaro (ph. Giampaolo CalzĂ )
Text
Antonella Cicogna, Mario Manica, Davide Negretti
Interviews
Antonella Cicogna
Drawings and topos
Chiara Benedetto. Relief maps: Davide Negretti
Maps
Marco Romelli
Translation
Alexandra Ercolani
Symbols
Ilaria Niccoli
Printed by
Monotipia Cremonese (CR)
VERSANTE SUD Catalogue
Note Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and those that practise do so at their own risk. All the descriptions in this guide have been based on information available at the time, but this should always be evaluated for yourself or by a qualified person before undertaking any cimb.
A sum corresponding to 2% of the total revenues from the sales of this book will be rolled over into gear for equipping new routes or restoring existing ones.
Km ZERO
This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced
Antonella Cicogna Mario Manica Davide Negretti
ARCO
Rock
113 proposals Arco Sarca Valley Valle dei Laghi Trento Rovereto Giudicarie Valleys Val di Non
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
Preface … 4
ARCO ROCK IS BORN Arco Rock is a new guidebook, which has been completely updated with the addition of lots of new suggestions. Arco, Dro, the Valley of Lakes, Riva del Garda, Val di Ledro, Tenno, Nago, Torbole, Valle di Cavedine, Terlago, Ranzo, Giudicarie Valleys, Molveno, Sporeggio Valley, Val di Non, Rovereto and its surroundings and Trento and its surroundings: With the route openers’ precious help we have looked at every rock face, sector, and pitch. We have compared the existing ones, modified them, and added the changes. It was a meticulous job of research and in-depth analysis which took me and my partners in crime, Davide Negretti and Antonella Cicogna a very long time. An example? Bassilandia. In our first edition there were 47 routes, today 69. Nago: there were 139 pitches, today 159. 13 grades have changed at Massone on 155 routes. And we know that things change from climbing a 7a to a 7a+! We could go on for ever. Over 95% of the crags described in the previous editions have required changes, great and small: adding a sector or a route, changing grades, a new project freed or a new access. Consequently new digarams of rock faces and accesses.. Unfortunately some crags have been taken out, like the amazing Laghel, two minutes from the centre of Arco with its spectacular pitches from 6a to 7c. Being on private terrain it has been fenced off and access to climbers has been prohibited. Or Ronzo and Pannone: for years an old decree by the Mayor prevents people from climbing on these great walls which unfortunately are now abandoned. Will it be possible to unblock the situation? Will the local council manage to solve the problem? All the crags described on these pages have been published, as usual, with the permission of those who have equipped them. Nothing listed here is done behind anyone’s back. We are proud of this, knowing that even the route openers themselves appreciate this. There are a number of “secret” or “hidden” crags which we have chosen not to publish. Some of these are on private terrain and “too much affluence” would risk aggravating the landowners who would then prohibit climbing. Other crags are in areas which are prohibited, and therefore officially impossible to publish. Others could have been described in this guidebook. But those who have equipped them prefer to keep the areas private, as if it were their own property, often they no longer even climb there aymore. Rock faces which have been bolted 5,10,15, 20 years ago…They believe
that publishing these crags would lead to too much crowding. We respect the idea of these bolters, because those who have equipped these walls have done so out of their own pockets, spending time, passion, effort and money. But let’s also ask ourselves: if Diego Depretto, Danilo Bonvecchio, Sauro Merighi, Fabio Leoni and many others had all kept “their” creations secret, what would climbing be like for everyone in the Sarca Valley? And let’s think seriously about the “busy” days where we queue up to climb a route? Maybe at Massone, at Nago? At Belvedere on routes of 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a? Ok. On the 3a, 3b, 3c at Massi di Gaggiolo: understandable. Because there are very few easy areas on which to climb in the Sarca Vaelly due to the type of rock and walls. I’ve never seen queues on difficult grades. Especially above 8a. In this guide we have left, on purpose, a few crags which aren’t very popular, since taking them out would have meant their death. Visiting crags keeps rock faces alive, clean and correctly equipped. We must also mention that bad manners and lack of respect can strongly contribute to shutting off a crag. It depends on us as climbers to be well behaved and respectful, regardless if the crag is situated on local council land or private terrain. The same goes without saying for parking, often it is limited or non existent. Let’s be careful not to block transit. It is best to leave your car further away from the rock face causing no damage and no disturbance! Mario Manica
… and aknowledgements 6
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS For me, not having climbed since my accident in Venezuela, writing this guide book has been a way of making new friends and meeting up with old ones. Everybody has made themselves available with an enthusiasm which took me back to the ‘good old days’ and brought back the thrill of actually climbing. I want to personally thank bolters or regular visitors to the crags with whom a good feeling has been established. In particular, thanks to Luca Onorevoli, passionate and knowledgeable about the Sarca Valley and who, with the accounts of his ascents described route after route with notes attached, has given us really useful material and sometimes even went to try the routes specially for us. To Gianguido Dalfovo and Fabio Leoni, who always energised me with their enthusiasm in describing their creations and repetitions. To Roland Galvagni, for having put up with me during my moments of yes-no, but-maybe-we’ll see if ... And obviously to Davide Negretti and Antonella Cicogna, always my climbing partners in this editorial initiative. So, thanks to all those who have taken part in compiling this guide. I hope nobody has been left out: Fabrizio Agosti, Roni Andres, Valerio Ballardini, Simone Banal, Paolo Benvenuti, Markus Bock, Eddy Boldrin, Danilo Bonvecchio, Paolo Bonvicin, Michele Bort, Andrea Bruni, Tiziano Buccella, Luciano Calderan, Ornella Calderan, Giampaolo Calzà, Michele Camin, Gianni Canale, Cristiano Casagranda, Franco Cavallaro, Danilo Cavosi, Lino Celva, Fabrizio Conforto, Gianguido Dalfovo, Giacomo Damian, Simone Elmi, Donato Falcone, Massimo Faletti, Bruno Ferrari, Rudi Filippi, Stefano Folgarait, Luca Forti, Roland Galvagni, Michel Ghezzi, Stefano Ghidini, Mauro Girardi, Gerhard Hörhager, Fabio Leoni, Demis Lorenzi, Giupponi Luca, Alessandro Lucchi, Gino Malfer, Loris Manzana, Silvano Matassoni, Sauro Merighi, Giorgio Nicolodi, Luca Onorevoli, Nicola Parziani, Martino Peterlongo, Silvio Reffo, Franco Scandolari, Angelo Seneci, Barbara Soardi,
Geremia Vergoni, Ulla Walder, Alfredo Webber, Carlo Zotele. A special thought for Mauro Giovanazzi, known as Spina. Many friends who contributed to this guide knew him well, climbed with him and shared great moments with him while dreaming of new mountains to climb. I want to remember him like that, climbing on a beautiful sunny day. And last but not least, thanks to Sonia, my eigth year old daughter, who opened her arms wide and gently said to me on one of our exploratory trips to the Valley, “Daddy, not more crags?” Mario Manica
14
Arco
Arco
Eremo 110 m
Eremo
E
14
Very few, but very difficult. The pitches found in this crag are among the most difficult in Arco and absolutely overhanging. The grade of 8a must be tackled easily to climb on this wonderful wall. This is why the first climbers to open and free the routes here are among the best. Christian Bindhammer freed Zauber free’s 8c+ in 2003. In 2008 Andreas Bindhammer freed the route St.Anger 8c+/9a (the route was named after the Metallica rock band) by overcoming the most difficult point with a dyno grabbing a hidden sloper. San Paolo’s Eremo (hermitage) and the crag’s overhanging yellow wall are visible from the road, which from Arco runs along the Sarca valley towards north. The San Paolo hermitage is a sacred place. The altar’s consecration dates back to the 9th April 1186. Equipped: G. Hörhager, R. Larcher, G. Manica, R. Schaerer, others.
3’
72
2 2 2 1 1
From the bridge over the river Sarca, turn right and follow the directions alongside the large car park to Loc. Prabi, Camping Arcoswimming pool (Piscina Comunale). The road (Via Paolina Caproni) takes you past the Rock Master climbing stadium (on the right), while on the left you pass the crags of the Rupe Secca, towards Colodri. Continue past Camping Arcoswimming pool (Piscina Comunale) (1 km) in the direction of Camping Zoo followed in turn by the restaurant la Lanterna. Park 800 metres beyond the restaurant in the parking for Eremo di S. Paolo (on the left you will find spaces for a few cars). Climb the steps that lead in 3 minutes to Eremo di San Paolo which is set into the overhanging white limestone below the Colodri.
EREMO
Ceniga
Arco
8c 8b 8a 7c 6a
Access From Arco by car 3 km then 3 minutes on foot.
8
1 WITHOUT NAME 6a 10m 2 CATY MINI 8a 20m 3 ZAUBER FEE 8c+ 22m 4 ST.ANGER 8c+/9a 24m 5 GRAVITY GAMES 8b/+ 24m 6 WITHOUT NAME 7c 20m 7 WITHOUT NAME 8b 20m 8 MEZZO BIOLOGICO 8a+ 25m
Short and easy up the pillar Very overhanging, requires stamina and excellent technique Technical, movement, endurance on strong overhang. First female ascent by Angela Eiter in 2014 Heavily overhanging at the start, then continuous on small holds Endurance on strong overhang Start is in common with n.6, great continuous overhang on tufas Roof with perfect jamming crack. Freed by Nicolas Favresse in trad style. The pitch is 150m to the left of the Hermitage (no topo)
EREMO
8b/+
8b 7c
6a 8a
1
8c+
7
8c+/9a
3 2
4
5
6
73
Born on the 5th July 1963 in Bologna, but has always lived in Arco. Star sign Cancer He owns Canyon Adventures, first agency to specialise in canyoning in the Sarca Valley (Torbole). Already the second in Italy in the early nineties.
DIEGO DEPRETTO 76
L’enfant terrible Many of the first routes which marked the Valley’s climbing history have all come from him. An interview with Diego Depretto who bolted Nago, Massone and has written the legendary guidebook Arco Falesie.
“It was the focal point. We would meet at the base with Roberto and often I would second him on many routes. I was the local kid, the kid that would rush over there when school ended. He was the one who was developing the concept of climbing. Then Heinz Mariacher and Aldo Leviti from Val di Fassa arrived with their great intuition at San Paolo. And Honky Tonky, Nuovi Orizzonti… were born. But initially the focal point was Colodri and its large boulders at the base. And the local evolutionary climber, Roberto Bassi. Where the Pizzeria California is today that used to be the home of Bepi, Bepi of Colodri. He would look after us, make coffee for everyone: Mariacher, Manolo, Stenghel…He was an amazing person. He had lost a foot in South Africa’s coal mines, and everywhere, at the base of Colodri, he would look for stones shaped like a foot. He had them all over the place in his house. A man with tales from the past: with his full-body harness, his thick ropes, climbing equipment which dated back to the forties and fifties hanging on his walls and which he had used as firewood. He had abseiled down Colodri and other rock faces in the valley before any other climber, never tied in, to cut down these enormous beech trees!” Then that turmoil moved elsewhere And reached the crags…. It was a period when many things were superimposed, evolving simultaneously in very different areas and on different walls. There was a special energy in the air. Adventurous, innovative. Every day was a discovery. It was extremely scary to belay Roberto during his first falls on Honky Tonky, or when he would throw himself from Bepi Nero trusting those hangers which had just been placed. Those who tried were fearless. Falling is the first thing they teach you nowadays on a climbing course, but in those days,
thirty three years ago, it represented a crucial passage. Having grown up with the sacrosanct rules of alpinism, someone was now trying to overturn them. It was an umbilical cord which was being cut. But it had to be done. A unique atmosphere? Probably the really great energy came from the fact that we were creating something totally new. We were exploring grades which were more difficult, new limits and mental attitudes, instruments and moods which were just as new. “No chalk on rock”, this is what we would find written on the base of Colodri! Because using chalk was unconceivable. And the move from a full-body harness to a sit harness. The legendary white and red Troll. “You’ll kill yourself. It’s certain death!”, that’s what they would say to us. No chalk because you’ll dirty the rock… Even when bolting it was one attempt after another..Nobody told us what to do. I experimented my first pitch with bolts on Il primo specchio at San Paolo, the same day Bassi and Manolo bolted Pipistrello at Swing Area. And then? And then I was no longer that sixteen year old kid. While I climbed I also started developing rock faces. Nuovi Orizzonti was born thanks to Aldo Leviti and Renato Bernard. For those lucky enough to climb it they will remember Magiche gocce, Son dur dur or All’ultimo respiro. Then Colodri south face, the rock face which allowed you to climb during winter. Then Massone. Giovanni Groaz discovered it, and he had bolted the first lines along dihedrals and cracks. Then I started. It became like home to me. Almost all of the lower sector, then La Gola’s intermediate sector, 77
so much time! I think that Massone was fundamental to my story: I bolted it, re-bolted it, washed it with a fire hydrant and acid to get rid of the polished effect on the rock…That was the centre of climbing in Arco for a long time. It was like meeting your friends at the bar, we all knew each other because we were a lot fewer than nowadays! There were those who lived in the area, those who came from South Tyrol, Verona, Brescia, Austria. There was that energy that I was talking about, the innovative spirit. By now Roberto had moved on to the Gola. Mariacher to San Nicolò in Val di Fassa, Manolo to Totoga. In the lower part of the Valley there was another group of climbers. Giorgio Manica, Daniela Luzzini, Rolando Larcher, Fabrizio Miori, Enrico Ischia and many others…It was the phase in which climbers were moving from climbing slabs to overhangs. You then discovered and bolted Nago in 1988. Yes, Nago! I plead guilty. Fantastic rock, a wild place which was easily accessible. Everything was too perfect not to love it and develop it. But it is also true that initially I was the only one to systematically bolt in Arco. During the end of the eighties and during the nineties luckily other climber-bolters arrived, among these Danilo Bonvecchio, Fabio Leoni, the Sisyphos group, Giuseppe Mantovani, Diego Mabboni… and a lot was done even in the upper area of the Sarca Valley, adding routes to the work started by Bassi. How many routes have you bolted? Between bolted and re-bolted routes I think more than a thousand, including all the work done with Arco Roc and Camillo Mattei which started in 1990 to fix and re-equip Massone, Nago, San Giovanni, Crosano, Baone, Spiaggia delle Lucertole, San Siro and Placche Zebrate… Approximately ten thousand resin rings in three years’ work. In all this I had strong support from the Province. You wrote Arco’s first sports climbing guide book. 78
Born by chance, without even imagining the development sports climbing would go on to have in the Valley. I bolted, re-bolted and catalogued all the work done, consequently it was important for me to share it. Arco Falesie ’87 was the first guide to come out: a folder with twenty unbound cards, all the drawings were by hand, then there was the description of the approach, the routes and a comment on each one. It was all hand-written by Angelo Seneci and me. There were fourteen crags! Then the edition with a climber on the half moon came on to the scene. Another piece of history. I had chosen the symbol of the climber together with Lorenzo Delladio from La Sportiva, in those days he supported the project. It recalled the fantastic, lunar-like world of climbing. The last one is from 1999, Arco Falesie, written with Margareth Eisendle of which I was editor myself. Ring-bound, with sixty or so crags from Arco to the Valley of Lakes, from the Giudicarie Valleys to the southern part of Lake Garda. Witness to the development which sports climbing in the Valley and the nearby areas had brought. Then something changed in you, in terms of climbing… I felt that it could no longer be my only point of reference. I needed something new, other ways of interpreting my life. Therefore I took up other activities which were parallel: fluvial canoeing, which is currently my great passion; paragliding; scuba diving, trial motorcycling. My latest challenge has been a helicopter pilot licence. And I have been emigrating to New Zeland during the winter season. And here, as well as The ten best known routes bolted by Diego Massone Desiree, C’è qualcuno che non sa, Il ladro di saponette, Pilot wings, Only locals Nago Kato zulù, Passeggeri del vento, Gandalf Swing area Balle bollenti, La pista
flying and canoeing, I have also started bolting again finding that same adventurous spirit, that creative energy I used to have when in Arco. Let’s not forget canyoning, you were the first to bring it to the Valley. It’s what I have specialised in work-wise since the eighties, my great passion. In 1992 I set up Canyon Adventures. It has probably been my most successful gamble. Investing time and money on something that everyone said would never have worked, when nobody knew anything about this sport. You haven’t actually quit climbing. I still climb, I teach it, I climb with clients. Espe-
cially with friends, family and my little ‘pest’. And you have still kept your first pair of EB shoes. Yes, my legendary friction shoes! And I also have a pair of Converse shoes resoled with aerlite. I have kept many chunks of chains from my first single pitch routes in the Valley, historic equipment from old routes which had been re-bolted, mainly for sentimental value and who knows, maybe for a future museum. And pegs…just like that fantastic unforgettable red peg on the 7b+ from C’è qualcuno che non sa which marked the crux. So many falls!
AGRITURISMO
WEINGUT Fam. Benuzzi - Oberhofer
Loc. Oltra 3 - Dro (TN) - Tel. 0464-504218 - www.agritur-oltra.com
25
Dro - Pietramurata - Sarche
Dro - Pietramurata - Sarche
La Pizzeria
25
Despite being directly under the nose of local climbers, this crag remained untouched for many years. That is until Lino Celva and Gianguido Dalfovo got around to equipping it. An obvious grey-yellow wall visible from the main road, all the routes are very good and the protection is intelligently placed. The style of climbing falls under the category of stamina, mostly on small edges. The panorama is made up of Dro and the fruit fields along its valley. A rope of 70 metres is required.
250 m
E
Equipment: L. Celva, G. Dalfovo and others.
La Pizzeria
Access From Arco by car 7 km, then 10 minutes along a footpath and fixed rope.
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the directions for Trento – Madonna di Campiglio. At the junction for Dro turn and follow the indications to the centre. At the roundabout continue straight ahead into Via Mazzini and turn right at the church following the signs to the Centro Sportivo (Sports Centre). Cross the bridge over the river Sarca and continue along the main road towards Dro. At Oltra turn left and climb to the parking at the Centro Sportivo. Pick up the road to the left of the sports centre signposted as the Percorso alle Cavre, Pineta Dro. The crag is easily visible to the left of the cliff (grey and yellow streaks). Continue for 100 metres until a small chapel, then follow the path CAI 425 San Giovanni for a little more than 200 metres. At this point take a track on the left (cairn) that leads to the crag with the help of a short fixed rope.
LA PIZZERIA
10’
Oltra
Dro
Sarca
Trento
Arco
Cavedine
? 8a 7c 7b 7a 6c
126
1 1 2 1
4
5
Agritur Benuzzi-Oberhofer
14
1 ZINGARA 8a 30m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 2 CAPRICCIOSA 7c 32m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 3 PROSCIUTTO E FUNGHI 7c+ 32m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges, bouldery to finish 4 RUCOLISSIMA 7b+ 32m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 5 SALAMINO PICCANTE 7a+ 32m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 6 MARINARA 6c+ 34m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 7 MARGHERITA 7a 34m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 8 PIOGGIA 7b+ 15m Vertical wall, continuous on small edges 9 DIAVOLA 7c+ 32m Bouldery on overhang then fingery on small holds 10 CALABRESE 7c+ 32m Bouldery on overhang then fingery on small holds 11 QUATTRO STAGIONI 7b/c 28m Bouldery to start with dynamic movement 12 IL CALZONE ? 28m Project 13SPINACI E RICOTTA 7b/c 25m Boulder on overhang to start, then continuous 14 PATATONA 7b 25m Overhang on good holds, then continuous. Spaced protection
LA PIZZERIA
7b+
8
7b/c
7c+
7b/c
7a
7b ?
7a+ 7b+
6c+ 7c
7c+
14
13
8a 7c+
12 11 10 9
7
6 54 3
21
127
57
Valle di Cavedine
Valle di Cavedine
Cavedine
57
Your first encounter with this clean wall may leave you feeling humble. It is dominated by clean, sober lines where technique is the master, even the easier routes require maximum concentration and a meditated approach. The harder routes are characterised by relatively intense sections which are never continuous.
530 m
W
Cavedine
Equipped: D. Bonvecchio, R. Galvagni and others. Access From Arco by car 19 km, then 3 minutes on foot.
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS 45 in the direction of Trento – Madonna di Campiglio. After 5 km, at the junction for Dro, turn right taking the S.P. 84 for Valle di Cavedine. Continue until reaching the village of Cavedine. Leaving the village, 50 metres after the IP petrol station, turn left following the indications to Lago di Cavedine. After a few corners the road levels out and starts to descend towards the lake. Pass the chapel on the left (small tarmac road in front), and continue ahead for 300-400 metres. Halfway along the first guard rail climb the path on the left that heads towards the wall. Park on the road. An easy path leads to the crag in a few minutes. Pietramurata
Arco
Cavedine Lake
3’
CAVEDINE
Cavedine
Vezzano - Trento
Drena-Dro
? 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a
242
2 4 2 1
6 10
25
1 LATTE PIÚ 6c 15m 2 SBARBIE E PREPUZIO 6c 15m 3 POPOLO BUE 6c+ 15m 4 ORO NERO 6c 15m 5 OIBÒ 6b+ 15m 6 ALTA TENSIONE 6a+ 15m 7 GIOIA E RIVOLUZIONE 7a 18m 8 GIOIA E RIVOLUZIONE PLUS 7c 8m 9 ALIBI 7a 25m 10 ORGASMATIC 6c+/7a 16m 11 ORGASMATIC PLUS 7b+ 8m 12 PALPITO TENUE 7b 20m 13 TOTÒ D’ARABIA 7b+ 20m 14 INGENUE UTOPIE 6c 20m 15 PLACEBO 6c+ 20m 16 MISERY NON DEVE MORIRE 7b 20m 17 3° MESE 6c 20m 18 ABE’S 7b 10m 19 GANJA 7b 20m 20 MAGMA 6c+ 20m 21 SESSO E NUTELLA 6b+ 20m 22 VOX POPULI 7a 20m 23 DIAFRAMMA 6c+/7a 18m 24 WITHOUT NAME ? 18m 25 WITHOUT NAME ? 18m
Unstable movements Good movements, co-ordination Testing start and wall on small edges Reachy start then slightly overhanging on small edges Slab on pockets and edges Edges and hidden side clings. Never easy Reachy side pulls at mid-height, then intense sequence Continuation of Gioia e Rivoluzione: difficult and intense boulder movements Initially technical, then a sequence on glued holds Slopers Bouldery on crimps Easy start, then reachy on small and sloping holds Intense and complex movements Broken climbing on pockets and edges. Good movements Intense on vertical holds and slopers, difficult to read Movements on slopers, difficult section to the chain Shared start with Misery, then direct Short and intense Partly unbolted Balance and co-ordination Broken wall with overhanging Intense start, bouldery around overhang Start on edges, then sequence on overhang
CAVEDINE
7c
7b+ 11
8 7a 6c
6c
6c
6b+
6c+
6c+/7a
7a
6a+
6c
7b 7b+
6c 6c+ 7b 16
7b
6b+ 6c+
17
7a 6c+/7a
7b 1 2
3
4
5
6
7
9
10
12
13
14
15
18
? ?
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
243
83
Giudicarie - Molveno
Valli Giudicarie - Molveno
Breguzzo A splendid crag with a discreet number of routes most of which are very good and on optimum rock. Most of the routes are in the medium to high grade range, but it is possible to find many good routes from 6a+ to 6c. The rock offers varied climbing; physical and delicate movements, pitches of single hard moves and others requiring extreme stamina on the overhanging central wall. The wall has been very well equipped by Bruno Ferrari, it is exposed to the south east and shaded by both broad leaved and conifer trees. The name given to the routes are the old nicknames used for the Breguzzo families. Don’t miss out on a trip to Malga Trivena in Val di Breguzzo.
850 m
Breguzzo
SE
Equipped: B. Ferrari and others Access From Sarche by car 29 km, then 10 minutes on foot.
83 di Campiglio. Pass over the river Sarca and follow the SS 237, climbing for some 8 km. Pass the Terme di Comano and continue through the village of Ponte Arche. Follow directions for Madonna di Campiglio for nearly 10 km until Tione di Trento. From here keep on the SS 237 until reaching Breguzzo (14 km from Ponte Arche). At the entrance to the village, just after a small church with a cemetery, turn right into via Rocca and ascend for 1,4 km parking on the right, just before the electricity sub-station. Descend the road from the main square on foot for 50 metres and enter a good path that climbs diagonally on the right, until a stony stretch close to two television repeaters. Follow the road towards the left for 20 metres and at the junction enter the road that climbs to the right. After 50 metres, near an electricity pylon, join the path on the right that reaches the crag in 5 minutes (10 minutes from the parking).
From Arco head towards Trento until Sarche. Breguzzo Turn left following the indications for Madonna
10’
Breguzzo Tione - Trento - Arco Brescia
8b 8a 7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a <6
330
1 1
1
4 4 4 3
2
4
24
1 TASCHE 6a 10m Corner crack 2 CAGOLA 6a 10m Fractured rock and vegetated ledges, undoubtedly the worst pitch at the crag 3 BORSÀC’ 7b+ 18m Stamina 4 POLENTÌ 7c+ 20m Great overhanging pitch on pockets, finish on crimps 5 MONDI 8b+? 8b? 20m Pitch freed? 6 GIOGI 7a+ 26m Splendid exit from the corner with two reachy moves 7 SECHI 7b 30m Start on little pockets, then large pockets: final section is fingery and clip in at the end is difficult 8 STRUZ 7c 30m Key sequence high up after a grand effort 9 RIMONEL 7c 30m Fingery boulder and continuous 10 PEROBALE 7b+ 28m Fight gravity with long reaches between large holds with finishing crux, 6c to the first anchor 11 FORLÌ 8a 28m Follow the grey column 12 BARACHÌ 7a 27m Technical slab, small roof and committing bulge. Good 13 BAGOI 6c 25m Complex extraction from the corner chimney, good and easy exit from the roof 14 PANCÌ 7a 23m Traverse right of pockets, committing rounded flake/crack 15 PAGNATE 7c/+ 23m Continuous on crimps, key section at mid-height on sloping holds 16 CASTÈI 7b 23m Start is reachy then stamina 17 PATAFI 7a 21m Hard move at mid-height 18 MITILDI 6b+ 20m Technical traverse at mid-height. Good, physical exit from the roof 19 PIMPINEL 6c 22m Movement on slab and final overhang 20 PRENZIP 6a+ 17m Right of a vague arête with good continuous climbing 21 POSTELARÌ 5c 16m Cracked corner, delicate rock 22 FERACÌ 6a+ 13m Large holds left of the bolts, then grey overhang 23 BARTÒI 5a 13m Pitch for beginners
BREGUZZO 6a 6a
7b+ 10
7c+ 7b+ 8b+?
7c 7c
8a
6c
7b
7a 7c/+
1
7b 2
3 4
7a
7a+ 6c
5
14
7a
6c 6b+ 6a+
6a+ 6
7
8 9
5a
5c 11 12 13 15 16 17
18 19
20 21
22
23
331
ARCO
climbing card
Cut the card out you find on the sleeve to the right and hand it in to our partners listed here. You may benefit from special offers, or receive presents, or privileged treatment.
ROOM & BREAKFAST & SAUNA
Via alla Busa 6 PIETRAMURATA di DRO TRENTINO +39 366 6457187 www.pietrarara.it info@pietrarara.it
Campeggio Parete Zebrata Pietramurata (SS45bis)
www.campeggioparetezebrata.it + 39 349 289 4600
GIARDINO
ALLA TORRE
Rooms & Breakfast Apartment Via Olivo 3a Dro (TN) www.giardinoallatorre.it info@giardinoallatorre.it
Chiara: +39 3475513126 Michela: +39 3333001686