CLIMBING IN SICILY The region of Sicily is mainly mountainous, characterized by Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano, which with its 3300 metres overlooks all the other peaks and mountainous groups on the island. As well as Etna the main reliefs are spread out along the mountain ridge which runs along the island’s northern coastline. This chain defined by the following mountain groups, listed from east to west: Peloritani, Nebrodi, Madonie, Monti del Palermitano and Monti del Trapanese. The peaks of these groups almost reach 2000 metres, and alternate mountainous areas of thick woods with other areas which are harsh and barren. Not all these groups offer attractive rock faces, the most interesting mountains in climbing terms are no doubt the ones found in the western section between Palermo and Trapani, apart from the beautiful and isolated Rocche del Crasto which rise up over the Nebrodi, which are further east. Another interesting area of Sicily climbing-wise is made up of the Monti Iblei plateau situated on the south east side of the island. Many canyons, up to 200 metres deep, offer great potential for climbing with dozens of beautiful well bolted crags. Imposing and majestic, Mt Etna does not present any particular rock faces for climbing, except for the small sectors described in this guide book, which nonetheless are interesting. From the morphology of Sicilian reliefs and their rocky structures, one can deduce that the areas suitable for climbing are situated along the island’s eastern and northern coastline. This is where most of the climbing centres are found, in terms of the already bolted crags or other rock faces for multi pitch routes. Even if inferior in size other areas present rocky outcrops which are equipped for climbing, but they represent isolated sectors compared to the areas mentioned above. Over the last few years there has been a marked increase in the number of climbing routes all over the island, thanks to the work of many bolt-
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ers, both local and foreign, who with passion have never stopped discovering and equipping new areas, or re-bolting and renewing historical sectors. In addition publications, meetings, festivals and, last but not least, this current guide book help make climbing in Sicily increasingly widespread. Climbing schools, mountain guides with their clients or simply groups of friends who choose to come climbing in Sicily are definitely on the increase. TRAVELLING IN SICILY A trip to Sicily, no matter how fanatical a climber may be, cannot stop you plunging into the Sicilian reality, the proverbial hospitality of its people, the thousand tastes and flavours of its food, the enchanting glimpses of its old town centres and the beauty of its sea. An invitation also to visit its numerous inland villages, still experiencing a rural lifestyle of long ago, but if you don’t love the bucolic country life, don’t miss the chance then of the city night life. Extremely beautiful historic centres in Palermo, Catania, Syracuse and Ragusa have lots of night clubs open until dawn attracting lively crowds. Don’t be afraid to stay out late at night in the cities and remember to use your common sense in every situation. In many crags you can camp at the base of the walls, but some of these are on private land, so if you meet the owners or any local people it is a good idea to ask their permission and exchange a few words so that you can be accepted as friends rather than invaders and nobody will bother you. In Sicily much of the water sources are dependent on rainfall so are dry for most of the year, remember this when you are planning to camp away from a campsite and need water. Anyway it is easy to replenish this precious asset in the little mountain villages, where there are usually fountains. Remember that in many protected areas, or in the reforested areas managed by the Forestry Corps, it is forbidden to light fires, a small camp fire out of control can burn vast areas and represent a danger for you as well as for many others. Limit