HOOKING UP The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
Fabio Elli Peter Zabrok EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
First edition: July 2019 ISBN 978 88 85475 809
Copyright © VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. via Longhi, 10 20137 - Milano www.versantesud.it All rights reserved world wide. No part of this book can be translated, electronically copied, reproduced, adapted partially or totally by any means.
Cover: Scott "Plaidman" Peterson, Jerry "The Jet" Greenleaf, "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok and their Junk Show on their multi-WEEK ascent of Tempest - A3+, SE Face El Cap, Yosemite, USA (© Tom Evans – elcapreport.com) Photographs: all photos are from Fabio's and Peter's archives unless otherwise specified. Layout: Amedeo Rosso and Tommaso Bacciocchi Print: Press Grafica s.r.l. - Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy
Fabio Elli – Peter Zabrok
HOOKING UP The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
Libby Sauter taking bold initiative on the first all-female ascent of the SalathĂŠ in a day. El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, CA  Ph. Cheyne Lempe
S
how me your hands and I will tell you who you are. Hands have a voice of their own – and they never lie: they bear the signs of the times, of the work and anything else a person has done in life. For this reason, from time to time, we enjoy imagining the ones
of our ancestors, living in yesteryear Premana. One name springs to mind: Nicola Codega, founder of C.A.M.P., alongside other figures, the undisputed masters of working iron. Their hands spoke of their jobs, of skills passed down from generation to generation, keeping to an ancient tradition, which makes the tools crafted in our company simply special. Thinking about Riccardo Cassin, himself forging the pitons used during his exploits, leaving all his expertise to C.A.M.P., it is plain to see that mountaineering stands for craftsmanship and manual skills, before embodying adventure: the ability and willingness to craft the most adequate tools to be used in the right place with creativity and wisdom. This is precisely where the beauty of aid climbing lies, and we still hold it in high regard today. During its long history, which started in 1889, C.A.M.P. never stopped pushing its boundaries: in the Golden Age of the Yosemite Valley, when news of exceptional ascents on granite walls was coming in from California, some of the authors of these feats – such as Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost – were able to work with us. This is why El Capitan and its routes – Nose, Salathé, North America Wall... - became somewhat familiar, their presence evoked at C.A.M.P. by their protagonists, whose hands bore the signs of exhausting head-to-heads with the finest rock in the world. On the eve of the new millennium, the bar is higher than ever and the most difficult route on El Capitan bears the name of Reticent Wall: graded A5, standing for absolute uncertainty, you’ll perform like a magician to climb it. Mountaineers advance as if in a bubble, which may burst at any moment. Tomaž Humar, a real prodigy in the C.A.M.P. team, looked for this and sent the first solo ascent of Reticent Wall in fifteen days in 1998. A few days later, thanks to Valerio Folco, that nightmare of a route became part of our history once again, adding a new chapter to an achievement, these days carried on by the visions of Marcin Tomaszewski: the exceptional Polish alpinist brings cliffs, rurps and coppherheads on the most hideous big walls in the world, being a master in an art which leaves us speechless, told by his strong, sincere hands.
www.camp.it
“We even suggest you use climbing equipment in ways not recommended by the manufacturer!” Pete holds up the hook that he had duct taped to the rock for pro and which stopped his twenty-foot fall on his first attempt to solo Native Son, a big wall on El Capitan. The hook had straightened so much, Pete couldn’t believe it held him! Pete bent the hook back into position, never realizing he had buggered the temper in the steel, and the next season on Reticent Wall, the hook straightened out again and Pete went for a whipper. Caveat hookum….
6
Legal Disclaimer and Assumption of Risk So listen up, eh? Climbing rocks and especially big walls is frickin’ dangerous, and the potential for blowing it is always present. Don’t believe the authors know what they are talking about or have any professional credentials, because we don’t. We’re just two guys who have climbed some walls and lived to tell the tale. We’re not even very smart – climbing big walls is stupid, and if you are dumb enough to follow our advice and get into trouble doing it, that’s your problem, not ours. If you try the “suggestions” [ahem] offered here, there is a one hundred percent certainty that at some point in your life – most likely the finish – you will end up dead. If this happens as a result of what you learned here, too bad for you. By reading this book, you accept responsibility for your own actions, and you agree never to sic anyone on us – not your executor, parents, kids, guard dog, attack cat, really mean “ex” nor especially your lawyer – though you may call us names. It’s your responsibility – not ours – to look after your own skin. Don’t try anything here unless you’re an experienced trad climber with proper equipment and training. Information in this book is of general interest only; nothing replaces formal instruction and experience. Lots of stuff contained herein is incorrect or misleading – we even suggest you use climbing equipment in ways not recommended by the manufacturer! Your safety depends on your own good judgment and realistic assessment of your climbing ability. Yer gonna die, and if it happens as a result of anything you read here then it’s your fault, because you agree that the authors cannot be held liable.
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Table of Contents Foreword by Jim Bridwell. ..................................... 10
4. LEADING ON AID
Introduction to the original Italian Version................................................................ 12
Stories. The Elegance of the Top Step
Introduction to the English Version................. 16 Stories. Boring Games in Aiders
by Lorenzo Natali.............................................................. 22
1. A BRIEF HISTORY OF AID CLIMBING
Ripping Yarns from the Beginning through the Golden Age up to Modern Madness........ 25
Stories. Great Trango Tower and the Grand Voyage by John Middendorf. ....................................... 53
2. AID CLIMBING RATING SYSTEMS
Pondering the Imponderable............................ 71
Stories. Wings of Steel by Richard Jensen....... 88
Upward Progression as the Leader............. 207
by Matteo Rivadossi...................................................... 267
Stories. The First Ascent of Morange
by Matteo Rivadossi...................................................... 270
5. THE JOB OF THE FOLLOWER
Seconding and Cleaning an Aid Pitch......... 275
Stories. Baba Yaga by Diego Pezzoli. . ................ 313
6. CHAMPIONSHIP PIG WRESTLING
The Better Way to Haul Your Loads............. 319
Stories. Aid Climbing on Conglomerate
by Jordi Mena Segarra................................................. 364
Stories. Aid Climbing on Monte Brento
by Diego Filippi............................................................... 368
3. HEAVY METAL AND TINKER TOYS
7. THE NYLON HIGHWAY
Stories. Yo Gang, Woot Woot!
Stories. The El Cap Girdle Traverse
Big Wall and Aid Climbing Gear....................... 97
An interview with Erik Sloan. . ................................... 201
8
Fixed Ropes and How to Ascend Them...... 375
by Chris McNamara....................................................... 398
8. LIVING ON THE WALL
Vertical Camping.................................................. 407
Stories. Katharsis by Marcin Tomaszewski.... 448
9. DESCENT
Getting Down Off of a Big Wall....................... 455
Stories. The Way of the Turtle
by Mike Libecki............................................................... 477
10. ALPINE AID CLIMBING TIPS
Quick and Improvised Aid Climbing Ideas to Survive in the Mountains................ 491
Stories. B.A.T. by Fabio Elli.................................... 504
11. SOLO AID AND BIG WALL CLIMBING Climbing in a Team of One............................... 515
Stories. The Edge of Myself
by Andy Kirkpatrick...................................................... 574
12. HOW TO READ A BIG WALL TOPO
Your Roadmap to the Summit.. ....................... 583
Stories. Failing Upwards by Libby Sauter.... 587
13. HOW TO LEARN STUFF
Our Suggested Sequence for Becoming a Competent Big Wall Aid Climber.. ............. 591
Stories. The N.N.I.A.D. Solo
by Chantel Astorga........................................................ 603
14. SPEED CLIMBING ON BIG WALLS
Fast, Scary and Dangerous. . ............................ 607
Stories. Seven El Cap Routes in Seven Days by David Allfrey.............................................................. 614
APPENDICES A. Bitchin' Places to Climb.............................. 619 B. Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist................................................................ 645 C. Glossary of Big Wall Terms And Dr. Piton-isms. . ........................................ 650 D. Big Wall Songs. . ................................................. 662 E. Big Wall and Aid Climbing Websites................................................................ 666 Bibliography................................................................. 669 Acknowledgments................................................... 670
9
Foreword
by Jim Bridwell character and courage, not of technique. The texts were rich with names like Comici, Cassin, Buhl, Maestri and of course the great Walter Bonatti; these would become my mentors and role models for my climbing goals. In many ways, big wall climbing could be one of the premier therapies for that which is missing in modern civilization – excitement and adventure. But be wary, as it can also become addictive. Big wall climbing, more than any other form of climbing, offers many beneficial practices that reinforce social evolution. Though industrial, it is peaceful, but not lacking in danger and excitement; it imposes discipline and enforces co-operation; it puts a premium on fortitude and courage while promoting camaraderie; it fosters and solidifies human brotherhood sometimes above nationalism; it destroys the weak and unfit without glorifying the superhuman, and it dissolves the illusion of equality and selectively stratified society. In that large rock faces occur worldwide, the lure of big walls promotes travel and cultural intercourse. The bond among big wall climbers has contributed greatly in diminishing the regrettable effects of national egotism, primarily replacing a common group or blood bond with that of mutual experience. It should be noted though that speaking a common language is essential for efficient communication and cooperation. Climbing big walls demands labour. Labour – the efforts of design – distinguishes man from beast, whose exertions are
It is appropriate and fitting that Italy, the birthplace of alpinism,
largely instinctive. The necessity for labour is man’s paramount
produces a new testament for this nearly religious pursuit of
blessing, and needless to say climbing big walls demands
the passionate practitioner. As a young climber in the United
copious work. So if you tend towards idleness, perhaps you
States, I was more an enigma than a minority, gaining much of
would do better at “sport climbing,” as big wall climbing is not
my knowledge from reading books like this one, though on a
for the idler!
Neanderthal’s level. Climbing came to America from Europe
The climbing found on the great rock escarpments requires, by
but culture would not – more time was needed. The books
its varied nature, a multitude of highly developed skills which
mostly available were those of adventure and deeds by men of
can be fluidly and efficiently adapted to demand. This allows
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AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – FOREWORD
the normal human to accomplish the extraordinary, provided one’s self-realization is honestly and morally assessed; after all, there is as fine a line between boldness and stupidity as there is between prudence and cowardice. As in all things, balance equates to equilibrium or stability; but this condition is not static, and is never ritualistic to a fault. Be willing to test yourself, but not to extinction, and take a chance with belief power. “It is better to have played and lost than never to have played at all.” The growing danger of climbing in general and big wall climbing in particular is that technology usurps both adventure and necessary uncertainty. If you could fly, why would you climb? Indeed, humans need to be stimulated, and fear is a great motivator. When you can’t afford to lose, you learn quickly, and practice helps your survival potential. Practise, practise, practise with a clear plan to evolve your skills concomitant with choosing known climbs requiring a level of skill just above those acquired. Those who fail to plan, plan to fail. Please excuse the philosophical tone, but I was never a great climber as God didn’t bestow me with great tendon strength genetics, though I did receive a keen, imaginative mind to which I attribute much of my success. It is from my observations and my widely varied experiences of the natural world that I have become more a philosopher than gifted climber, which should be good news for those without superman strength. Both science and mechanical technology have been crucial to the advancement of security and reduced labour, multiplying the capability and capacity of the individual for more extreme adventures. All you can do is your best, so make that your goal. May the force be with you! Jim Bridwell
Jim Bridwell enjoys a beer on the Continental Shelf during the First Ascent of Sea of Dreams on El Capitan in May, 1978. Mark Hudon and Max Jones had just bailed off their attempt to make the 4th ascent of nearby Pacific Ocean Wall – a flake Mark was nailing fell off and smashed his finger, so on their way down they contributed their beers and water to the ongoing cause. Note: the authors suggest bringing cans, not bottles, up your big wall – ha! Ph. Dave Diegelman
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Introduction to Intelligenza Artificiale, by Fabio Elli and Diego Pezzoli THE EUROPEAN AND ITALIAN VIEWPOINT When you first crack open an aid climbing manual – at least
to discuss it further – the obvious choice was for us to rope up
one like this that started in Europe – you’d almost expect us to
together in this adventure and combine fun with results.
try to convince you why aid climbing shouldn’t be considered “cheating” with the idea being to “reach the top at any cost”.
It’s not that easy to put yourself out there on a subject like this,
We might even try to persuade you that it’s not written for
a manual that no one in Italy had yet tried to develop, especially
wannabes who suck at proper climbing, and then explain why
considering there are plenty of activists out there with far
aid climbing is so uncommon or sometimes even snubbed here
more impressive credentials than us. But it was because of the
in Europe, except by oddballs like us. Instead what we hope
lack of information and of mentors available to share their
you feel – and share! – is our passion for big wall aid climbing
knowledge, combined with our great desire to explore this
shining through: a lust for sleepless nights in a portaledge,
branch of the vertical world, that we chose to write this book
endless days spent hanging on the most marginal of gear
using little more than our own first-hand experience and
conceivable, and plenty of pain and suffering.
research through trial and error. So we basically went out there by ourselves, and figured it out.
But you won’t find any kind of that stuff here. That would be like hoping the introduction to an academic text about particle
Obviously we have not invented much of anything on our own,
physics or Byzantine art history could fire up your thirst for
because aid climbing has existed for over a century. But the
knowledge, when your only prior experience had been reading
good news is pretty much everything you’re going to see here
gossip magazines or Japanese porno comics.
has been personally incorporated and tested in the field, then compared to the experience of others thanks to today’s vast
A small spark will ignite a flame only under the most perfect of
wealth of online knowledge. We also wanted to finish our
conditions, and chances are if you’re holding this book in your
Italian version sooner rather than later, because we believed
hands, you already hold the fuel inside of you that’s ready to
there is a great hunger for an inclusive text like this one.
explode. Our hope is that as you read, study and internalize
Abroad and especially in America, aid climbing has a totally
these hundreds of pages of cool new ideas, it’ll light you on fire
different feel than in Europe, as almost all trad climbers will
to the point where you dream of faraway big walls, and your
eventually give it a try, perhaps dreaming of sunny days spent
only thought will be where you can find a crack to nail.
climbing in their own backyard on the most famous big wall in the world, El Cap. From America comes much of the specialized
The notion of writing this book was born separately in me and
aid climbing literature, where the first shy manuals date back
Diego Pezzoli – my co-author of the Italian version who was
to the beginning of the 80s, full of pencil drawings reused by
not involved in this English book – around the end of 2013,
different authors over the following years. But a comprehensive
without either of us knowing we shared the same dream. But
aid climbing manual – specific and encyclopaedic on virtually
when we discovered each other’s intention, there was no need
every aspect – was still missing in Italy. So because of this, we
12
the original book in Italian
AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – FOREWORD
decided to add some spice to our project and write a wide-
still learning. So be careful, think everything through, and
ranging text that would appeal not only to beginners by
consider what we present with a critical eye and careful
introducing them to great faces yet out of reach, but also to
implementation. Your safety is your own obligation, so don’t
advanced climbers who want to study hard and learn to climb
blow it. We are sure you “get it”, because by reading this book
the biggest walls. So we took our chances, and tried to include
you have agreed with the terms of our disclaimer.
most everything. Of course this increased our risk of disagreement and error, so when you find something you don’t
So look – don’t try to read this book in a single go. It’s like a
like, please write us [and Pete] and tell us how to fix it. All
rich and tasty pasta that needs to be chewed a bite or two at a
criticisms and suggestions will be well received, because you never know when the updated second edition will come out. So here’s the book! We’ve tried to link all the chapters together with the common theme of safety, so you don’t end up dead. Some of our advice might sound bad to you, or even clash with certain accepted rules of the more skilled and long-standing alpinists and big wall climbers, so decide carefully which ideas of ours you choose to try. But there’s always something new to learn, and the more you know, the safer you can be. About all we can say is that an extra precaution or two has never killed anyone, however the converse is not necessarily true. And while we’re at it, we will once again cover our asses by reminding you that none of us is an accredited guide or instructor. We’re just a couple of dudes bashing our way up big walls and figuring out stuff as we go. You’re going to love lots of our ideas, even though some of them are dangerous. You could even die trying our systems, but that’s your problem, not ours. Climbing – especially on big walls – is inherently hazardous, and people die doing it all the time, people just like you. Knots fail, ascenders pop off the rope, slings break, and climbers make dumbass mistakes. It is your responsibility to build redundancy into everything, especially systems you are
“Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok on the 12th pitch of Tempest – the Pecking Order, A4, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA. Behind him you can see the North America Wall in profile view. See where the black water streaks coming down from the summit stop? That’s where the cliff becomes so overhanging, the water falls into space. Ph. Scott “Plaidman” Peterson.
13
INTRODUCTION TO “INTELLIGENZA ARTIFICIALE”
A mammoth chapter describing all the equipment you need is certain to keep the gearheads happy, but if you’re not interested in gear, then maybe aid climbing is not for you, or at least not yet. For sure, this is an “engineering” discipline, meaning that intelligence, perceptiveness and creativity count way more than just being a hardman with forearms of steel. Aid climbing gear is presented in its entirety, describing its more classic use together with a series of tricks and tips developed in the field. Is there any better way for improving yourself than by learning from other climbers’ experience? If you have any secrets that we’ve missed, then please write us and share – we’d love to hear from you! Our discourse on the various aid rating systems is sure to interest and confuse the nerds, and we’ve made an attempt to retrace a bit of aid climbing history. Chapters about leading and seconding describe the various rope manoeuvres you’ll need to execute on the wall, operations which are potentially Diego hanging out on the second belay of Fragilità Cerebrale (A4), Sergent, Valle dell’Orco. Ph. Davide Grimoldi
dangerous and therefore deserve appropriate discussion. You’ll learn fundamentals like how to rig and move on fixed ropes, along with the various techniques you need to know to descend
time, otherwise you might end up with an upset stomach. We
from a big wall, infinitely more complicated than bailing from
have tried to offer the most complete information available,
a sport route. There is no dishonour in accepting that you’re
analysing nearly all the aid climbing products available today,
still not up to climbing a particular route, even if this awareness
and fully explaining the systems while describing the pros and
comes when you have massive fall potential under your feet.
cons of each. If you learn and practise everything you read
Certainly it’s worse to find out high on the rock that you’re not
here, you’ll be on the road to becoming a competent top-notch
able to descend safely from your predicament. Life on the wall
big wall aid climber. So start by leafing through the book and
is the aspect, together with aiders and the strange stuff we use,
checking out the awesome pictures we’ve collected, and only
that characterizes the big wall climbing experience: toiling all
bother to read the stuff that catches your attention. But do
day, the relief of reaching the belay anchors and feeling safe
linger on the stories that colour this volume, for we have
once again, or waking up on your ledge and already being at
enticed some of the world’s best aid climbers into sharing their
the base of that day’s pitch – perhaps the one and only pitch of
tales and photos of famous and infamous walls near and far,
the day. This is what it’s all about!
climbs you might want to put on your wish list. You’ll need to read the technical chapters again and again, then take them
Our chapter on alpine aid climbing tips is not meant to be
with you to your local crag where you can practise.
exhaustive; rather it will teach you some quick and improvised
14
AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – INTRODUCTION TO “INTELLIGENZA ARTIFICIALE”
aid climbing solutions that will help you survive in the mountains, especially when you weren’t expecting to have to climb using aid. Next comes our chapter on how to solo big walls, previously only within reach of the true masters, but now possible for just about anyone with the desire and willingness to learn how to climb alone – maybe even you! This is followed by a chapter where we give you advice on how to learn the requisite skills safely and in a logical progression without burning yourself out. And if you’ve ever wondered how the speed masters can climb a Grade VI big wall in only a few hours, our chapter on speed climbing will tell you, plus share some ideas you can put to use. When we look at managing danger, we want to point out that the only professional figure qualified to teach this safely is the IFMGA mountain guide: don’t hesitate to call for supervision,
It might be old school carabiners and Friends on his rack, but some things never change – like hooks. Unless of course the flake Deucey is hooking has since fallen off! Are your hands getting sweaty looking at this photo, and imagining yourself here? If yes, then you have come to the right place. And if not … well, just keep on reading! Somewhere high on El Cap back in the day. Ph. John Middendorf
as it’s the best investment you can make. Our book ends with a small selection of both well-known and obscure places you can plan to visit on your next aid climbing holiday, along with Pete’s complete big wall checklist to help you pack your pigs. We’ve also included a bunch of websites we think are worth checking out, a bibliography of recommended readings plus a few fun surprises that Pete will tell you about. We have purposely chosen to omit certain topics like first aid, nutrition, meteorology, and alpine climbing on snow and ice, which are all items of relevance for a multi-week climb in the great ranges of the world. So if you find yourself getting bored or excited on different pages then we will have reached our goal, especially if one day you realize your lifelong and formerly impossible dream of climbing a big wall. Fabio Elli and Diego Pezzoli, 2016
Diego Pezzoli, co-author of the Italian version of this book which we called Artificial Intelligence, was born in 1980. He started climbing in 2008 and quickly became a solid sport climber. He then set his eyes on the big walls, climbing El Cap three times, and he has also climbed in Russia, and on the Blamann and Stetind in Norway. Diego is always on the hunt for a new first ascent.
15
Introduction
by “Pass the Pitons”
THE BETTER WAY TO CLIMB BIG WALLS
reading this book be just as enjoyable? I hope you find my
How’s it goin’, eh?
slightly irreverent brand of humour amusing, and that it appeals to the reprobate inside of you, because anyone who
Welcome to the office of the diabolical Dr. Piton. Find yourself
likes living on the side of a cliff for weeks on end has to be a bit
a comfy spot to chillax, grab yourself a coffee or a beer
of a degenerate, or at least aspire to be one. I’ve tried to make
[depending on whether it is before or after Changeover Time]
this book easy reading, and we’ve filled the chapters with
and hunker on down for your first of many big wall tutorials. If
plenty of spectacular photos to keep your attention, even if
you want to learn about aid climbing and how to climb big
you sometimes have difficulty staying focused, like yours
walls, then you have come to right place. In the pages of the
truly. This text is going to teach you things you never learned
book which you now hold in your hands, you will find the most
in school, and you will uncover new approaches to solving big
comprehensive information and newest ways to help you
wall climbing problems you had not yet considered. It’s my
reach the summit of the greatest rock faces in the world –
hope that as you peruse my Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips, you’ll
safely, efficiently and most importantly while having a blast!
start smiling and nodding along and suddenly exclaim, “Oh my gosh, that’s so simple – why didn’t I think of that before?!”
This book has been written for you. It doesn’t matter
If you read and study and practise the techniques and systems
whether you’re a seasoned veteran who has climbed dozens of
we describe, you will add so much new weaponry to your aid
walls, a Big Wall Theorist who has bailed from numerous
climbing arsenal that you’ll be able to approach a big wall, and
attempts, or a trad climber who wishes to improve his skills
actually get up the damn thing. But most of all, I hope to
and achieve new heights, you’ll find everything you need right
inspire you! To stimulate your imagination and encourage
here to help you succeed. Gumbies, wannabes, has-beens,
your dreams, to impart the knowledge that builds your
never-beens, cavers and even sport climbers will all discover
confidence, and spark in you the belief that you really can do
new things you can put to use, making you a smarter and
it. Because if a wanker like me is able to make it to the top,
hence better climber. And if you’re an armchair mountaineer
then why not you? It’s not that hard – honest!
who’s afraid of heights and gets dizzy when you stand up to get off the couch? Well, you’ll still find this book worthwhile
How this book – and Dr. Piton – came to be. If you are a Dr.
because the pictures are so swell, and you’ll be able to casually
Piton aficionado, you may already know that I began writing
toss around big wall climbing terms like ‘flagging your ledge’
this text online about twenty years ago during the infancy of
or ‘docking your pig’ – even if you’ve never done it – and your
the internet. While I missed out on the old school user group
friends will think you’re bitchin’.
rec.climbing, I did become active on the aid climbing forum at the now defunct rockclimbing.com. Here for the first time
The purpose of this book is to entertain, teach and inspire
ever we had a virtual gathering place in cyberspace, a central
you. Climbing big walls is the most fun you can have with
repository of information where aid climbers from all over the
your clothes on – even if it’s Type 2 Fun – so why shouldn’t
world could exchange ideas and share experiences. But there
16
AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – FOREWORD
Pete Zabrok aka Dr. Piton was a huge vacuum of material – few of us back then who
While writing as Dr. Piton – a Wall Doctor who diagnoses and
were climbing big walls could be bothered making the effort
solves big wall climbing problems – I shared a huge volume of
to teach others how to do it. As a wall rat with growing
useful knowledge, but also some stupid and unappreciated
experience on hard routes and the ability to write clear
twaddle. I thought of my humour as being “tongue-in-cheek”,
explanations, I was also gifted with lightning fast computer
but not everyone saw it that way, and I definitely rankled more
fingers [the only quick part of me] plus a big mouth, a smart
than a few. I assumed that being intentionally snide but in a
ass and a brain that didn’t always think before it typed. I
humorous self-deprecating way would generate more interest
invented the character of Dr. Piton, a failed superhero who
and page views, and hence advertising revenue for the website,
somehow manages to get up big walls in spite of a total lack of
but mostly it just annoyed folks. This was never my intent – I
talent or natural ability – in fact, Dr. Piton is quite overweight
regret some of the things I wrote, and years later I apologize if
and has a penchant for drinking too much beer. And just like
I pissed you off. I relocated to the Supertopo forum and added
me, the Doc suffers from the “sin of pride”, roughly defined as
further big wall contributions there, and made what I felt to be
the false belief that you’re more bitchin’ than you really are.
a substantive effort to clean up my act and establish a better
So for a while, I began to fancy myself as something of an
reputation. For a couple of years, I wrote a Dr. Piton column
internet Superman – at least when I was safe at home behind
for Rock & Ice magazine, where climbers wrote in to ask
my laptop screen, where I visualized Dr. Piton posing vainly in
questions and the Doc replied in print with plenty of attitude.
front of a full-length mirror, occasionally standing to perform
A couple years ago, I was hanging out in the El Cap Meadow in
body-builder poses. On the actual big wall, though, I was just
Yosemite, and Tom Evans the photographer handed me a book.
another gumby bashing my way up.
“Fabio asked me to give you this – he says he borrowed a lot of your ideas.” Who the hell is ‘Fabio’? I thought. Sounds like an Eyetalian fashion model. I opened the book – Intelligenza Artificiale – and holy frig, what a superb job Fabio and Diego had done! I was immediately enthralled. Leafing through the pages, the book felt good in my hands: thick and heavy like a piton hammer, with a solid cover and thick glossy paper, crystal clear print, and sensational photographs. “Bloody ‘ell!” I exclaimed to Tom, “We need to turn this book into English, and I’ll add all my Dr. Piton big wall tips!” And so the project was born, but without my coauthor’s knowledge [though he quickly agreed]. Suddenly, my purpose had changed – while climbing and living on the big wall, I started photographing “textbook” belay anchors, hauling systems and campsites, all the while scribbling notes and tricks that I wanted to share. Fabio invited me to join
17
INTRODUCTION
him in working with the folks at Camp/Cassin who kindly provided us with some first-class gear to use in the photos, along with sponsorship for this book. Writing and describing the systems came easily to me, essentially second nature, because I had been thinking about and penning this stuff constantly for the last two decades. When you have spent so much time on the wall – 767 nights on El Cap alone not counting base nor summit bivys on 61 different routes at the time of writing and God willing many more to come – you figure out a thing or two. Plus I really wanted to get all this information out to you! What a pity it would have been not to have handed down my knowledge to the next generation; what if I were to die tomorrow? I’m about to turn sixty for cryin’ out loud – how many years do I realistically have left to keep climbing walls? I reckon my days are numbered, probably not more than another twenty years or so. And when I grow up, I want to be just like Fred Beckey. Perfectionism is a burden – it doesn’t mean you do everything perfectly, it means you only do the things you love perfectly, and everything else can go to hell in a handbasket. It’s taken me too long to write this book – severely testing the patience of my Italian publisher and my co-author – and a couple weeks ago a rather large and persuasive man named Guido knocked on my door and made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. I’m not one of these people who can budget his time and do things well in advance; I really need a deadline to make things happen. There are only two speeds with me – zero or a hundred – so if you find an occasional typo because they made me rush the finish, please forgive me.
The best stuff in this book that you have to check out first! It’s easy to find what you’re looking for because we did a tidy job of “racking our gear” – while the Doc’s belay anchors might sometimes be clusterfucked, this book is vell-organicized. The chapters’ order and contents are logical, and at the top of each chapter you’ll find a list of what’s inside. As you flip through the pages, we hope the awesome “climbing porn”
18
AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – INTRODUCTION
Sometimes the Better Way to teach you something is to show you how not to do it. On my first solo of El Cap – Iron Hawk in 1997 – I didn’t understand how to properly “flag” my portaledge which acted like a sail, causing the wind to transform my load into a deadly dynamo spinning at around 20 RPM! What a n00b – this is Big Wall Theory at its finest! Sheesh.
19
INTRODUCTION
photos with detailed captions will capture your interest and imagination, fueling your stoke and causing your heart to palpitate and your palms to sweat – you might even have to reach for your chalkbag. Be certain to read all of my “Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips” because these are the very best ideas, many of which have never before been published. For instance, if you get away with my dirtbag “airport packing tip” scam described in the hauling chapter even once, and can get your overweight pig onto the airplane at no extra charge, you will completely underwrite the cost of this book! A good place to start might be at the back of the book – don’t miss the Glossary of Big Wall Terms and Dr. Piton-isms – otherwise how will you know WTF an RTFN bag is, whether being “pipe” is a good thing or not, or understand how to maximize synergy while decreasing your Wank Factor? You can use Dr. Piton’s Ultimate Big Wall Checklist to help you prepare for your next climb, and have some fun singing along with my Big Wall Songs. Give me a beer, and I’ll sing any song you request. Gimme another beer, and I’ll stop. {fa-toop poop, KSH!} I think the best chapter by far is Living on the Wall which tells you everything you need to know about big wall camping – how to arrange your portaledge, pigs and belay anchor to tame the Junk Show and create a perfectly organized hanging bivy. The joy and relief we feel at the end of the day is what makes all the pain and suffering so worthwhile, when we enjoy total comfort in one of the most hostile environments on earth. Here you will also find what is perhaps the most useful advice in the book, which teaches you how to save your hands on the wall and avoid the dreaded crab claws. If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to climb a wall in a team of one, you will find out in the Solo Aid and Big Wall Climbing chapter. A definitive treatise on how to solo climb a big wall Native Son was my second solo of El Cap back in May, 1999. This time, I felt like I knew what I was doing … sort of, even if my hook sling is too long. Photo by Chris Falkenstein, who rappelled six hundred feet down from the summit to take it. Check out the Appendix E for the link to the Youtube video he made on this pitch. Geez – I was still skinny back then!
20
AID CLIMBING – FABIO ELLI & PETE ZABROK – INTRODUCTION
had not yet been written... at least until now, and here you will
When you buy this book, you will also buy some of Dr. Piton.
discover in great detail how to safely solo a big wall, working
So I’m about to run it out here on A4 hooks and heads, and make
smarter not harder. Perhaps this will appeal to your perverse
you an offer I hope I don’t later regret: if you buy this book, you
inclinations, and you might want to join “The Club”?
will be able to contact me directly for a virtual Dr. Piton Mini Big Wall Tutorial. Say you’re at the crag practising the systems, but
A bit about my writing style and use of pronouns. I hope you
you just can’t figure something out? Or maybe you’re halfway up
find my cheeky prose entertaining, and that you appreciate it’s all
a big wall – your smart phone still works – but you’re really
in good fun. As a Canadian, I’ve written this book using the
stuck and need some help? Then contact your Wall Doctor, and
Queen’s English, so those of you from all over the world who are
I’ll do my best to assist you in real time, if I’m available. I will
reading may find some of the words spelled differently than the
provide my direct email at the bottom, and you can also find me
more familiar Merrican versions. But I will remind you that we
on Facebook. But we need to set this up ahead of time because I’ll
won the War of 1812, so there. In proper English, there is no third
make you answer a skill-testing question to prove you actually
person singular gender-neutral pronoun – you would either have
bought the book – I only look stupid. Think about it... receiving
to write “he/she” or “they”, the latter of which grates against all
big wall tutorials by instant message in a pinch. Ever heard of
my grammatical sensibilities. Accordingly I have chosen to use
such a thing? Me neither. So let’s try this as an experiment, and
“he” – with no slight intended to the increasing numbers of
see how it goes. Or maybe we could meet for a tutorial in person
talented and motivated women who climb big walls! – in order to
sometime. But you need to speak English – sheesh.
make my writing cleaner, though I refer to the climber by function whenever possible such as “leader” or “cleaner”.
Climbing Big Walls is Emphatically the Shit! And if you want to learn stuff about how to do it, then you have arrived.
If you find this book a bit El Cap-centric, you’re right. The
Because in the pages that follow, you will find out everything
“Big Stone” is where great climbers [and not-so-great climbers]
you ever – and never – wanted to know about big wall
of the contemporary era have come to initiate or refine their big
climbing. Always remember that Dr. Piton does not purport to
wall skills. Modern big wall climbing was invented here, and
teach the “only” way nor the “best” way, but rather the Better
today nearly all new big wall developments originate in
Way – and the Better Way is whatever works best for you.
Yosemite. Virtually all of the ascensionists of the world’s longest,
Now, shut up and climb.
hardest and most remote big walls cut their teeth on El Capitan,
Yours, etc.
and forged their skills in her granite crucible. In the past year, El
“Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok aka Dr. Piton, B.S., M.S., Ph.D.
Capitan has come to the forefront of public attention, thanks to the movies Dawn Wall and especially Free Solo with Alex
Everyone knows what B.S. is.
Honnold, which won the Oscar for Best Documentary. I hope
M.S. is More of the Same.
one day you and I will meet there in the “Centre of the Universe”
And Ph.D. is Piled higher and Deeper.
to share a beer and talk shit – I’d be very interested to hear what you think about our book, and specifically which ideas you have
Your Wall Doctor’s personal email:
found most helpful in your quest to climb.
passthepitonspete@hotmail.com
21
John Long and Jim Bridwell on Ship’s Prow Ledge during the FA of the Bob Locke Memorial Buttress on Mt. Watkins, September 1978 Ph. John Long.
0001 A BRIEF HISTORY ASPETTI TEORICI DELL’ALLENAMENTO OF AID CLIMBING FISICO
A BRIEF HISTORY OF AID CLIMBING
Here’s how it happened, more or less. Not exhaustive, but
summited Mont Aiguille in 1492, his ascent was overshadowed
entertaining. It’s actually worth reading, and you will learn
by some dude named Columbus who stole the newspaper
some interesting stuff – honest! Plus there are some really rad
headlines that year when he discovered Cuba, which one day
stories and photos you’ve never seen that will drain the blood
might even become part of America.
from your extremities, so don’t miss ‘em.
Not much happened for the next three hundred years, at least climbing wise, until August 8, 1786 when Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard reached the summit of Mont Blanc at 4810m, proving themselves to be the Baddest of the Bad Asses, and ushering in the age of modern mountaineering. On to the glory of conquering summits, and without any regard for “style”, “aid” climbing was born. In other words, nobody cared how you got to the summit, only that you got there – so “free” climbing could wait. The tools of the aid climbing trade were
HOW IT ALL BEGAN, PREHISTORY TO THE MID-1900S
invented and used – ladders to cross crevasses, human pyramids aka “combined tactics”, cutting steps in ice, pitons, and even rudimentary ice axes jammed into cracks and
We need to start where it all began – alpinism. And if by alpinism
torqued, kind of like today’s dry tooling. Antoine de Ville was
you mean to climb a mountain for whatever reason, then it’s
a soldier, used to storming battlements and such, so he used
been happening for a darn long time by our fur-clad predecessors
ladders, ropes, aiders and the progenitors of pitons.
chasing bears up mountains as a source of food, instead of the
By the early 1900s, the mountaineering world had divided itself
other way around as it happens these days in Yosemite. And
into two camps – those who considered aid climbing to be
what about good ol’ Moses, climbing Mount Sinai to receive the
cheating and would never dream of using it, and those who could
Ten Commandments, now known as the Ten Suggestions in
care less. But the evolution of gear like pitons, ropes, crampons
modern day society. Moses was either very slow, or very stylin’
and ice axes was a direct consequence of the evolution of free
– it took him forty days to reach the summit, longer even than
climbing, where the difficulties and risks had become increasingly
the Wings of Steel crew took on El Capitan.
bigger, and new safeguards were required. In 1906, Tita Piaz
But if we’re talking about climbing mountains just for “fun”,
kicked it up a notch and climbed the Campanile Toro in the
we can probably say modern alpinism is around seven hundred
Dolomites, the world’s first mixed free and aid route. Around
years old. Petrarch thought he made the First Ascent of Mont
1911, Otto “Rambo” Herzog – no relation to Sly Stallone –
Ventoux in Provence in 1336, but Jean Buridan later claimed to
developed the carabiner, a design he stole from soldiers who used
have climbed it two years earlier. See? Arguments and disputes
these clips to attach their rifles to their shoulder straps. Prior to
in mountaineering circles are not exactly new, and have been
this, climbers had to untie their rope and pass it through the eye
around since the very start! A few years later in 1358, Bonifacio
of a piton, then tie themselves back in again – yeesh! About the
d’Asti stood on top of Rocciamelone in Piedmont, Italy – not a
same time, Hans Fiechtl invented the modern day piton, and
bad effort to reach 3538m. And while Antoine de Ville
together these two new inventions gave birth to real 6th class aid
26
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – A BRIEF HISTORY OF AID CLIMBING
climbing. The First Ascent of South Face of Schusselkarspitze soon followed, along with the West Face of Totenkirchl by Hans Dulfer who invented the “hot seat” body rappel. Next it was time to get serious in the Dolomites, first with Solleder on the thousand-metre-high Monte Civetta NW face in 1925, and later in full view of everyone on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. In 1933, Emilio “let a drop of water fall from the summit” Comici and the Dimai brothers knocked off the North Face of Cima Grande using every trick in the book – ropes, slings, carabiners and about eighty pitons – now yer talkin’! And so were his detractors, who just like today were motivated mostly by jealousy. It is a fundamental truth that if you are bitchin’, you will have detractors, and Comici was indeed bitchin’ – four years later he came back and soloed his route in three and a half hours! The more things change, the more they stay the same, and the Haters kept busy hating on Comici in the press, because the Supertopo
climbing
forum
didn’t yet exist. The
Dolomites
are
undoubtedly the cradle of the aid climbing world, and the techniques developed there were soon exported to the western Alps, where Ratti and Vitali climbed the West Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1939, the first mixed free-aid route in the Mont
Blanc
massif.
Throughout the war and the years following, the best in the world kept at it – from Maestri to Desmaison, from Couzy to Mazeaud, and from Carlesso to Bonatti – putting up aid routes that are still pretty darn hard even by today’s standards. Bonatti made a bold statement in 1951 by climbing the stupendous East Face of Grand Capucin.
The Pere Eternel [Eternal Father] is an incredible granite needle on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif, planted smack-dab in the middle of the Brenva Glacier. Climbed for the first time in 1927 by L. Grivel, A. Ottoz, O. Ottoz and A. Pennard, the leader used a long wooden pole held in place by the lower climbers. You still have to climb the pole today, as Dafne Munaretto demonstrates. Who’d have thought a wooden pole would outlast bolts? Ph. Gianni Lanza, www.vielunghevalledaosta. 27
52
GREAT TRANGO TOWER AND THE GRAND VOYAGE
by John “Deucey” Middendorf and Xaver Bongard
After getting rescued in storm off of Half Dome, engineer John “Deucey” Middendorf founded the climbing equipment company A5 in 1987, even then making the best portaledges available. He has climbed all over the world, including more than thirty ascents of El Cap along with four new routes and two solos. In 1980 with John Long he wrote the manual How to Rock Climb: Big Walls which has sold over 25,000 copies. [Pete and Fabio can only dream of being so successful!] Nowadays Deucey’s D4 portaledge is the new paradigm in ledge design, and is considered one of the four great aid climbing innovations of the last twenty years.
“Whatever you can do, or dream you can do, begin it.
John begins,
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it”.
Ripping winds mingled with distant shouts as Xaver Bongard and myself established our final rock belay on the rim of the
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Great Trango Tower in the Karakoram. Below our feet lay four thousand vertical feet of sensational granite wall; above us a few pitches of mixed snow and ice climbing continued to the center
An historic account of the First Ascent of The Grand Voyage
of our universe for the preceding months, the once elusive but
(VII, 5.10, A4+, WI3, ca. 5,000') in 1992 on Great Trango
now-so-near summit. A mixture of luck, tenacity, alpine
Tower in Pakistan. John and Xaver share the writing of the
climbing and big wall skills plus a finely tuned logistical plan had
story – John writes in plain text while Xaver’s writing is in
gotten us this far. The shouts grew louder and became
italics. Get it?
recognizable in syllables: “RAY – DEE – OH!” It was our Swiss expedition companions – Uli and Studi – who had opted for a climb on the nearby Nameless Tower, and who were now halfway up its three-thousand-foot Southeast Face. So we switched on our two-watt FM transceiver, expecting to receive congratulations on our reaching the rim. Instead, we broke into a radio conversation between Studi and Ace Kvale, who was stationed on the glacier far below. We heard Studi exclaim, "Uli's ankle is shattered. He fell twenty feet onto a ledge. We're fucked!" Then Ace replied, "Are you sure?" Disbelief and shock were evident in his tone, and the same could be said of our thoughts. Needless to say, Xaver's and my elation at reaching the rim was
Facing page left: A shot of 5.9+ offwidth climbing at 5800m. The experience that John Middendorf and Xaver Bongard learned in Zion was mission critical to getting up this pitch, especially considering they had accidentally sent down all of their big cams with the team members who had bailed! Ph. John Middendorf
also shattered as we pondered the grim possibility of having to
53
HEAVY METAL AND TINKER TOYS
Torsional Nuts.  These nuts rely on some type of torsional component to hold them in place, the most familiar being Hexcentrics and Tricams. Hexes are hexagonal in cross section and can be a lighter weight alternative to the cam in the alpine arena, though without the same range of placement.
Hexcentric nuts can be used lengthwise or crosswise as passive protection, or placed to maximize torsional grip. Far right is a pentagonal nut with a mobile head, cool but rare.
Hexcentric used as normal nut.
Try this to maximize the torsional grip of your Hex! 130
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – HEAVY METAL AND TINKER TOYS
Tricams are a very specialized product, available these days
Ball Nuts. You either love ‘em or hate ‘em, but in the right
only from Camp and Trango. While they work as a simple nut,
crack, they are a viable alternative to nailing. Unfortunately,
their beauty is that they can also work like a cam. They really
this is where you see them most – fixed in cracks!
shine in solution pockets in limestone, especially the three smallest sizes of black, white and pink. You can use them in ice-filled cracks with the point against the ice, and Tricams were once used frequently in horizontal placements like those at the Gunks prior to the invention of flexible cam stems to avoid the dreaded “friender bender”.
Sometimes ball nuts are really hard to get out – pulling the lever towards you does nothing more than fix it harder. You’ll almost always need to use a nut tool and push the wedgehead of the device which is now fixed deeper inside to loosen the ball. In other words, don’t pull the ball, push the nut! You can also try carefully moving the ball sideways with your nut tool, or worst case scenario – whack in a piton next to the stuck ball nut to expand the crack.
A set of Tricams by Camp. The new Evo Tricams have a shape optimized for being used as simple nut, with the tape under the metal head having been stiffened to facilitate long reaches.
Tricam placed in torsion, exactly like a cam. To remove, be careful! – use your nut tool to rotate the head of the Tricam in the opposite direction to which it was placed
Nothing else would work, but this tricam was perfect! BAT, A3, Caporal Wall, Orco Valley. A set of Camp Ball Nuts 131
LEADING ON AID
and hung up behind a flake. He had to spend an entire day bolting sideways around blank corners to rescue his rope! Rope bags can be expensive, so check the second hand shops for old backpacks or gym bags of the right shape. Or for a real Dr. Piton Dirtbag Trick – duct tape two one-dollar cloth grocery bags inside of each other. Choose the kind that are somewhat rigid, or go for the plastic ones that Ikea sells. This is further described in the Gear Chapter – 3. If you are planning to bivy at your anchor, think carefully about how you will dock your load and set up your ledge. Ideally, the end of your ledge will rest against the side of your pigs for quick and easy access. More about this in Living on the Wall – Chapter 8.
Above: If you don’t have rope bags available, you can flake your rope on a sling. This is harder than it looks as the ropes tangle easily. Use a shoulder length sling on its own dedicated carabiner to maintain the degree of freedom to move the stack of rope. Left: Gianni Vistarini at the anchor under the Salathé Roof on El Cap, 1996. “Make-ah sure you belay she’s-ah nice-ah!” Ph. Angelo Riva.
236
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – LEADING ON AID
Dr. Piton’s Advance Base Camp three pitches up on the third ascent of The Real Nose, El Cap. The first camping pig hangs from the hauling station at center, easily accessible from either ledge. Above are the gear piglets which contain the rack we needed for this hard big wall nailup. Note that the entire Junk Show has yet to catch up! The floors on these old North Face ledge flies seemed good … at least in theory. But in rainstorms, the bottoms will pool with cold water which sucks the heat out of your bivy – a floorless fly is always better when temperatures are above freezing. Ph. Tom Evans - elcapreport.com 237
THE JOB OF THE FOLLOWER
Above left: Federico aka Mr. Casual shows us how to thread the rope for a 4:1 lower-out. This maneuver might feel casual when you’re standing on the ground like he is while taking demonstration photos, but with two thousand feet of air under your heels, it can be scary as balls! Below left: Next you take this doubled bit of rope – the bight – and clip it through a locker on your belay loop. Note that in this demonstration photo, Federico is tied directly into the end of the rope. When you are seconding big wall aid pitches, this will usually not be the case except when you have to lower out directly from the belay anchor you are vacating. Usually the lower-out point will be mid-pitch, in which case you will tie your final backup knot just below your GriGri, as described in step F above. 308
Above right: Anita setting up the 4:1 lower out on Mines of Moriah, Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire. She has passed the bight of rope through the lower-out ring, and clipped the bight through the backup locker that is now on the top of her donut – there are no twists. Once she cranks herself tight on the 4:1, she can unclip and clean the grey sling barely visible under the ropes, and lower herself out. The fixed rappel ring on the bolt means she doesn’t have to leave behind gear fixed in the crack. Below right: With her GriGri and jug still on the fixed lead rope above her butterfly backup knot, Anita lowers herself out on a 4:1 mechanical advantage using nothing more than her gloved hand. You do NOT need a rappel device to perform a 4:1 lower-out – there is sufficient friction and leverage available, even when hanging in space, or when lowering off this slippery rappel ring. So don’t waste time moving your GriGri when you don’t have to.
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – THE JOB OF THE FOLLOWER
I Grab the free end of the rope in your gloved hand, and pull yourself into the lower-out point by hand using both your hands with 4:1 mechanical advantage. Pull yourself in tightly until your daisy goes slack and you are holding all your weight with your one hand. J While holding yourself in place with your gloved hand on the free end of the rope, use your other hand to unclip your daisy from the lower-out point. Attach the daisy to yourself where it won’t tangle with ropes. K Lower yourself enjoying a 4:1 mechanical advantage allowing the rope to slide through your gloved hand. Even if you are hanging free in space and have the rope quadrupled through a smooth-running carabiner or quick link, the friction in your glove will be sufficient to lower yourself out under 4:1. There is no need to use a rappel device or Munter hitch in this 4:1 situation, so don’t waste your time! L As you lower yourself out, you can also take in slack on the upper rope by climbing with jug and GriGri. M As you lower yourself into plumb, you may find that you are have insufficient lower-out line remaining, and could go for a swing. Rather than swinging, continue jugging higher in order to give yourself more line to work with. You will, however, have to redo the knot below your GriGri, so be careful. N Continue to ascend and clean the pitch. Get to a position where you are the closest you can get to the lower-out point, and can see it clearly. Look at how the rope is double-threaded through the lower-out point, and remove any twists in preparation of retrieving this quadrupled rope. Detach the bight from the locker on your harness, lower it out and let it dangle smoothly without twisting or hanging up on any flakes, and carefully retrieve the rope from the lower-out point, pulling in such a way as to get the smoothest pull with the least amount of friction and without the rope crossing over itself. Pull gently and carefully – if your rope twists in the lower-out sling or autoclips the lower-out carabiner, you’ll find yourself hosed!
After lowering himself out on the 4:1 while cleaning, Erik Eriksson prepares to release the bight which he holds in his right hand. After he lets it go, he will retrieve the bight by gently pulling the rope back through the lower-out point. Dude! Once you’re higher, please try to swing over and get back my rivet hanger and biner, eh? Second Ascent, Winds of Change – El Cap. 309
LIVING ON THE WALL
Jon Rigg is “having a toym” as he serves up Big Wall Margaritas on the Third Ascent of Heartland, a full-on nailup adventure through the nasty diorite of the North America Wall proper – note the salted rims and fresh limes. Behind him, Chris Trull grins ear to ear – perhaps he has already been into his “goon” of Franzia Merlot which was most assuredly not chosen by Dr. Piton [although he still drank it – ha!] On the Wanted Dead or Alive pitch, the Doc backed off when it became apparent that nailing an A4 DFU loose flake was not a good idea, so ropegun Jon free climbed it at solid 5.10. Directly above, there is a very spooky belay on the right side of the Made in the Shade roof – the block upon which the bolts are drilled sounds menacingly detached, so we bypassed it on our next haul. When we reached the Crest of the Wave Bivy on the clean white granite above, we felt like we had ‘er licked, at least until the haul up to the base of the Cyclops Eye spanked us – likely the toughest pig wrasslin’ ever. That night, Pete remembers watching Sirius rise above the Sentinel, twinkling blue, green and red in the clear Sierra nighttime sky. 438
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – LIVING ON THE WALL – VERTICAL CAMPING
Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip of the Day Big Wall Margaritas Did you know that ‘gold’ tequila is the cheap stuff, and only contains about 50% agave, the other half being distilled sugar syrup? Always choose 100% blue agave reposado tequila, meaning it has been “rested” in a barrel for up to a year before bottling. Or upgrade to añejo if your budget permits. Since you have to bring water anyway, forget making Gatoritas – we recommend Trader Joe’s margarita mix in 2:1 ratio with your tequila. Always use Kosher salt, not table salt – oy vey!
Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip of the Day How to Hang your Stove on your Ledge It’s hard to find just the right place on your ledge to suspend your hanging stove, so construct a sliding suspension point. First get a foot and a half of 3mm perlon, and tie it in a loop like a prusik. Wrap this loop in a Klemheist around the air-side centre suspension strap of your ledge, and cinch it tight until it “bites”. Secure it in place with a wrap of duct tape around it so it can’t un-hitch itself and fall off. Voila! Instant adjustable stove suspension point, just where you want it, every time.
Above: Jason “Singer” Smith cooking up on his solo ascent of Midgard Serpent (VI, A5) on Mount Thor, Baffin Island. Yeah, we remember our first moustache... Ph. Jason Smith Below: The two-dollar Jetboil hanging stove kit – a four-inch hose clamp and some half-inch tubular webbing as described in Chapter 3. Note our big wall coffee cups on either side of the stove suspended by dedicated fake-O’s. Is making coffee in bed the Better Way? The Doc sure thinks so! Ph. Anita “Nother” Leisser. 439
446
Mike Libecki and Angie Payne chillaxin’ on their ledge during their epic junglefest First Ascent of Poumaka Tower on the Island of Ua Pou, Marquesas archipelago, French Polynesia. That other tower in the background is sticking out like a sore thumb and begging to be climbed. But check out the approach to it – how sharp is your machete? Got a week or two to spare? Ph. Andy Mann courtesy Mike Libecki 447
HOW TO LEARN STUFF
10. SELF-BELAY TECHNIQUES Learning how to self-belay isn’t just for solo ascents. If you are
necessary precautions like bringing a friend to keep an eye on
climbing with a partner and put a core shot in your lead rope,
you, and make sure a 911 call will go through on your cell phone!
you will have to isolate the damaged section with a knot which can’t pass through carabiners. Without a spare lead rope, your team’s only recourse will be self-belay. But when you choose to take the next step and solo a big wall, you will need to know everything about self-belay. With no one to talk to, you are completely self-reliant, and you must figure everything out on your own from start to finish. Learning how to solo is like learning how to climb again, right from the start, because almost everything is new. You have to build multi-directional belays, learn entirely new methods of rope and gear management, and tame the cluster that will attempt to consume you. Start on an easy bolted route or even in a climbing gym if they will let you to learn the basics, and
Above: a first ascent is the summit of everything you’ve learned along the way. Fabio on the FA of Baddy, A3, Mello Valley (IT). Ph. Luca Schiera
work your way up by rope soloing clean trad lines. Take the
Below: Fabio soloing Muro di Silenzio, A3, Parete del Castello, Val Chiavenna, Italy.
600
Yosemite style jugging a free-hanging rope while wearing a gigantic backpack?! Only the hardest of the hard need apply, but Mike Libecki qualifies with his First Ascent of Discovery Wall, East Greenland. Check out the icebergs floating at the base of the wall.  Ph: Josh Helling courtesy Mike Libecki 601
The Leaning Tower and a nearly dry Bridalveil Fall reflected in the Merced River, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA. Not apparent from this angle is how far the Tower actually leans – 120 degrees outward in some places. Warren Harding’s classic West Face route is the first big wall for many aspirants. 618
HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – BITCHIN’ PLACES TO CLIMB
APPENDIX A
BITCHIN’ PLACES TO CLIMB
A Selection of the World’s Best Big Walls and Aid Climbs
Here is a brief overview of cool places to climb, and try out some of our ideas. We’ve also listed a few of the classics you might want to climb. Granite aid routes in the Alps, even in the more easily accessible places like the Orco, Daone and Masino Valleys, are actually few and far between, so believe it or not there are great opportunities for you to make first ascents here. But if you’re going for an FA, please make sure you know what you’re doing – don’t overdrill, adhere to local ethics, and if in doubt, then back off and leave it for someone who is better than you. Pay your dues and keep it as clean as possible to preserve the rock.
EUROPE ITALY ORCO VALLEY – THE ITALIAN YOSEMITE. Two main walls (Caporal and Sergent) and lots of smaller ones. Plenty of classic mixed aid and free routes up to seven pitches long. Caporal: Itaca nel Sole (6a A2), Crazy Horse (5+ A2+), via della Rivoluzione (6b A1+), Sole Nascente (6a+ A2+), Il Lungo Cammino dei Comanches (6a A2), Quel Nuovo Mattino (6a+
Caporal Wall, Italian Yosemitic steepness. Ph. Angelo Riva
A3), Mangas Coloradas (VI A2+), Gli Strapiombi delle Visioni (VI A4). Sergent: Cannabis (6b A2), Fragilità Cerebrale (V+ A4), Trasparenza Eolica (5c A2).
SEA VALLEY
Here are a few modern aid routes:
Small but magical place deep in the Lanzo Valley above Turin,
Caporal: Terra di Mezzo (A3), BAT (A3), Aerospike (A5),
the home of some routes by Gian Carlo Grassi, one of the best
Sogno di Jack (A4), Folco Pozzi (A3). Sergent: Supersonic
Italian alpinists of the ’80s and ’90s. Rarely climbed today,
(A4), Gnu Wave (5c A3).
some are unfortunately crossed by modern sport climbs.
Of deserving mention is the beautiful Escargot on the Dado
Gaz Wall (V+ A3), Così Parlò Zarathustra (6a+ A3), Metal
Wall (A2+), along with the Little Caporal “aid crag”, a wall
Rurp Full Spit (6b A3), Bufera di Cambiamenti Lontani (6b
with a dozen routes up to 3 pitches from A1 to A4.
A3), Società Trasporti Verticali (6b A2)
Guidebook: “Valle dell’Orco” M. Oviglia, Versante Sud Edizioni.
Guidebook: “Vallone di Sea – Un mondo di pietra” Marco Blatto, Vivalda Editori
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BITCHIN’ PLACES TO CLIMB
Time (VI 5.11 A3+, 850m), Deconstructing Jenga (5.9+ A3+, 900m). The Turret: South Pillar (VI 5.10 A3+, 14 pitches), Nuvualik (VI 5.10+ A3, 15 pitches). Polar Sun Spire: The Great and Secret Show (VII 5.11 A4 WI4, 34 pitches), Norwegian Route (VII 5.10 A4, 33 pitches), Superbalance (VII/A4/M7+). Walker Citadel: Mahayana Wall (VII 5.10 A4, 1300m), Superunknown (VII 5.10+ A3). The Citadel: The Endless Day (VI ED A3+, 1000m). Great Sail Peak: Rum, Sodomy and the Lash (VI 5.10 A4, 1200m), Rubikon (VI A4). Ali Castle: Artic Dream (VI 5.8 A3, 16 pitches). Cat’s Eye Wall: Out of the Pan and Into the Fire (VII A4 5.10 WI3, 1050m). Joshua Tower: Zen and the Art of Leadership (VI 5.11X A4, 830m). North west face of Cerro Piergiorgio. Ph. Hervé Barmasse
Guidebook: “Baffin Island – Climbing Trekking and Skiing” M. Synnott, Rocky Mountain Books
ARCTIC Baffin Island. Legendary, remote, fearsome, with crappy rock in a severe alpine environment and horrendous approaches. You’re deep in the DFU Zone here with no possibility of help. Cold, miserable, nasty, need we say more? Oh yeah, polar bears. Bring a gun. Unlimited first ascent potential. Mt. Turnweather: Intsumisioa (VI 5.11 A3+, 24 pitches), Sangtrait (VI 5.11 60° A4, 1150m). Mt. Thor: West Face Direct (VII 5.10 A4+, 18 pitches), Aromes de Montserrat (VI 5.8 A4+, 1130m), Project Mayhem (VII 5.10c A5c), The Midgard Serpent (VI A5, 1050m), Absolute End (VI 5.11 A4). Weeping Wall: Stoneagin (VI 5.9 A3+, 13 pitches). Mt. Frigga: Slith the Frightful (VI A5, 14 pitches). Mt. Asgard: Bilfrost Buttress (VI 5.9 A4, 40 pitches), Valkyrie (VI 5.7 A4+, 14 pitches), Exiles of Valhalla (VI A5), Inukshuk (VI 5.10 A3+), Nunavut (VI 5.10 A4, 18 pitches), Hyperborea (VI 5.11+ A4+, 16 pitches), Porter Route (VI 5.9 A4, 24 pitches), Sole di Mezzanotte (VI 5.10 A3 70°, 18 pitches), American Direct (VI 5.10, A4+). The Fin: Earth Wind and Choss (VI 5.10 A2+). Great Cross Pillar: Crossfire (VI 5.10 A4, 19 pitches), Tunuk (VI 5.11 A4), Non-Conceptual
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HOOKING UP – FABIO ELLI & PETER ZABROK – BITCHIN’ PLACES TO CLIMB
On the Great Cross Pillar route, Sam Ford Fjord, Baffin Island. Polar Sun Spire in the background. Ph. Mike Libecki
ANTARCTICA Ulvetanna “Wolf’s Tooth”: Norwegian Route (5.10 A4, 960m), Eiszeit (A4 5.10d, 24 pitches), Northeast Ridge (5.12 A2, 1750m), South Ridge (5.10 A1+). Holstinnd: Zardoz (A4 M7, 10 pitches). Guidebook: “Mountaineering in Antarctica: Climbing in the Frozen South”, Damien Gildea.
Below right: Kjasti Eide smiles during the Ulvetanna expedition, Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Ph. Andy Kirkpatrick. Facing page left: Bivouac in front of Mount Asgard. Ph. Jason “Singer” Smith. 643
“There is as fine a line between boldness and stupidity as there is between prudence and cowardice.” Jim “The Bird” Bridwell
“It doesn’t matter whether you’re a seasoned veteran, a Big Wall Theorist who has tried and bailed, or a trad climber who wants to reach new heights, you’ll find everything here you need to reach the summit. Gumbies, wannabes, has-beens, never-beens, cavers and even sport climbers will all discover new ideas to make you smarter and hence a better climber.” “Pass the Pitons” Pete Zabrok
“Fabio’s English version of Artificial Intelligence, now co-written with big wall veteran Peter Zabrok, sets a new standard of sharing the complex art of using equipment and big wall climbing techniques to effectively and efficiently climb the massive vertical oceans of rock that we call “big walls”. The recent boom of interest in big wall climbing will only continue, and the rising standards to come no doubt will be benefited by the publication of this comprehensive big wall manual. Thanks Fabio and Pitons Pete!” John “Deucey” Middendorf
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ISBN: 978 88 85475 809
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