TOMMASO FUNARO
LEPINI, CIRCEO
and ZANNONE Island
67 itineraries on foot on all the summits of the sector
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | TREKKING
First edition April 2021 ISBN 978 88 55470 438 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.
Cover image
Circeo and the Pontine Marshes seen from Civita di Norba (© Tognoni)
Text
Tommaso Funaro
Photos
Angiello Mario, Centra Gianni, Cerilli Ercole, Cipolla Davide, Corsi Riccardo, Cortese Francesco, D’Amore Massimo, Gatti Angelo, Il bastone dei Lepini ass., La miangola ass., Leone Domenico, Lucatelli Mauro, Martinelli Roberto, Parolin Florian, Petrella Corrado, Pietrocini Venusta, Pucci Christian, Raimondi Marco, Reame Rocco, Recchia Bruno, Riccioni Mauro, Sciscione Roberto, Tognoni Assunta, Vendetta Eleonora, Volpe Giuseppe, Vona Erasmo
English translation
Alexandra Ercolani
Maps
Silvia Ruju. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map
Symbols
Tommaso Bacciocchi
Layout
Silvia Ruju
Printing
Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS)
s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced
ZERO miles!
This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced! It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote trekking in the area reviewed. Trekkers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” tours – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in exploring new itineraries Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review with a local attention to the territory – they pay attention in the same way to any different tours – they meaningfully interact with local actors
Note
Trekking is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.
ZERO miles
with the support of the Special Local Development Project of the Lepini Mountains 2020, as part of the collaboration agreement between the Lazio Region-Natural Capital Superivsion, Parks and Protected Areas Directorate and the Compagnia dei Lepini s.c.p.a.
This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced
TOMMASO FUNARO
LEPINI, CIRCEO AND ZANNONE ISLAND 67 itineraries on foot on all the summits of the sector
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
INDEX Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Lepini, Circeo and Zannone An extraordinary territory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Geographical introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Key to reading itineraries and legend . . . . 22 Classification of the itineraries depending on their difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Lepini Mountain Huts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Table of itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
25. 27. 26. 28.
1. Translepini (monti Lepini -
33.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
34.
8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
15. 16.
17.
18. 19.
20. 21. 22. 23 24.
4
cima Nardi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 La Civita (Colle Illirio) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Flying in the sky (Rocca Massima) . . . 52 Punta della Melazza (m. Grugliano) . . 56 South-south-west ridge (m.Lupone) . . 60 Serrone lungo (m. Lupone) . . . . . . . . . 64 Jo volubro and costa delle tombelle (m. Lupone) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Costa delle Tombelle (m. Lupone) . . . . 74 Le fosse (m. Lupone) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Valle dell’inferno (m. Lupone) . . . . . . . 84 De Paolis Circuit (m. Lupone) . . . . . . . 88 Via della mola (Segni) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Via Crucis (m. Campazzano) . . . . . . . . 98 Traverse of La Croce (m. La Croce) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Acqua Mezzavalle (m. Semprevisa) . . 108 Piani dell’Erdigheta (m. Semprevisa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Direttissima di Giulianeglio (m. Semprevisa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Monte Pizzone (m. Semprevisa) . . . . 128 Fosso di sant’Angelo (m. Semprevisa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 I Querciai (m. Semprevisa) . . . . . . . . . 138 Valle Naforte (m. Semprevisa) . . . . . . 144 Valle della fota (m. Semprevisa) . . . . 150 Old Path (m. Pizzone) . . . . . . . . . . 158 The Bandit Tour (Sella del Semprevisa) . . . . . . . . . 164
29. 30.
31. 32.
35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40.
41. 42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49. 50. 51. 52. 53.
Le roccette (m. Erdigheta) . . . . . . 170 Le matreagne (m. Caprea) . . . . . . . . . 174 Valle sanguinetti (m. Caprea) . . . . . . . 180 Valle le gotte and Matreagne (m. Caprea) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Normal Route (Perrone del Corvo) 188 Ritarra Circuit (Cima dell’Ouso) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Giro dei monaci (m. Perentile) . . . 200 Pantano Circuit (m. La Trinità) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Via Pretara vecchia (m. Seiano) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 The Grande Faggio Circuit (m. Pilocco) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Malaina tour (m. Malaina) . . . . . . 224 Passo Pratiglio (m. Malaina) . . . . . . . 230 North-East Ridge (m. Malaina) . . . . . 234 Southern Ridge (m. Malaina) . . . . . . . 238 Fossa Agneluca (m. Malaina) . . . . 242 Piani del lontro (sprone Maraoni) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Valle Civita (sprone Maraoni) . . . . . . . 252 Valle Sant’Angelo (sprone Maraoni) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Monte Semprevina (sprone Maraoni) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Tour of the mountain huts (sprone Maraoni) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Colle Rotondo and Prati della Valle (sprone Maraoni) . . . . 278 Dei santi circuit (cima del Monte) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Valle Cupa Circuit (m. Filaro) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 The Path of the South Eastern ridges (m. Gemma) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 The Gemma Figure of 8 (m. Gemma) 298 Fossa dei Felci (m. Gemma) . . . . . . . 304 Bosco del Tassetto (m. Gemma) . . . . 310 Casale scarana (m. Gemma) . . . . 316 Sella Pennicali (m. Gemma) . . . . . . . 322
54. 55. 56. 57.
58.
59. 60.
61.
Eastern Ridge (m. Gemma) . . . . . Via Dantesca (m. Cacume) . . . . . . . . . Passo cerasole (m. Cacume) . . . . Punta di Mastro Marco (m. Cacume) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Caluvejo Path (c. Calvello) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tour of the wells (m. Siserno) . . . . . . Road of Pietracupa (m. Campo Lupino) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ancient via Severiana (Circeo) . . . . . .
326 332 338
62. Western Ridge (picco di Circe) . . . . . . 372 63. Eastern Ridge (picco di Circe) . . . . . . 378 64. Cyclopean Walls
342
65. Scree (m. Circello) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 66. Circle of Legends
348 354
67. Zannone circuit
360 364
(punta dell’Acropoli) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382
(picco di Circe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
(m. Pellegrino) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Collecting the Lepini 1000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Bibliography and Webography . . . . . . . . . 411 The author on the ridge of m. Castellone (© R. Martinelli)
5
Sottogruppo dell’Illirio
Monte Lupone
2
12 C. Illirio
13
M. Grugliano
3
Punta Melazza
9
M. Campazzano
Monte Malaina
4 11 6 Monte
la Croce
10
M. Lupone
14 7 28
5 8
Monte P
34
Monte Semprevisa
M. Perentile
Monte Caprea
31 26
39
P. del Corvo
22
M. Semprevisa
29 16 15 17
27 19 32 Monte Trinità
Monte Erdigheta
21 25
20
6
Pre-Lepini
Lago di Paola
Pianura Pontina
61 61 64 62 62
541 Picco di Circe San Felice Circeo
448 M. Circello 67
46
Monte Circeo
Cima del Monte
44 36 45
385 63 Punta 63 dell'Acropoli
66 64 65 69
65 66
Mar Tirreno
47
Monte Filaro
35 40
41 42
S. Maraoni
Monte S. Marino Monte Pilocco
M. Malaina
Monte Semprevina
39
38 1
el Corvo
29 16 15 17
56
Monte Gemma
52
49 57 53
C. dell’Ouso
30
Erdigheta
25
54
50 37 43 51
48 55
Monte Cacume
Isola Zannone
Monte Pizzone
24
18
Colle Calvello
Giuliano di Roma
Maenza
23
58
59 Monte Siserno
60
Monte Gemma
Monte Campolupino
Sottogruppo del Siserno Monte Seiano
33
7
PREFACE I was 8 years old, when I first climbed a mountain, one of the Lepini mountains of course. Ever since that day I have never stopped going to the mountains. But in my wanderings around most of the larger Italian mountains, I realized that with the passage of time, the sensations and the love I feel for my “home mountains” are unrivalled. For this reason I have decided to write down the itineraries which have left a mark on my heart ever since childhood. In addition, 16 years have passed since the last guide book on the Lepini mountains was written, so I feel the time has come to publish something which is more complete and as up to date as possible. I have also wanted to combine these mountains with Mount Circeo for two main reasons: the first is the attraction I feel for this area, which has enchanted me from the beginning; the second is the parameters used to sub-divide the paths of Lazio on the land register, which groups the Lepini mountains under the same sector as Mount Circeo (sector 7). Since the Circeo National Park includes the island of Zannone with Monte Pellegrino (moreover, it is thought that the island used to be part of the promontory), I have also wanted to include this last one, in spite of the relative difficulties to access it and its very low altitude, it offers some spectacular and everlasting views. My aim is not to write the guide book of the guides, the complete “Bible” on the Lepini mountains and Circeo, but at best something that can describe the majority of the areas (even the wildest and least known), the peaks and the most interesting paths in order to pass on the amazing sensations of peace and “wilderness” which I have always felt whilst walking across these mountains. Therefore with this book, I want people to get to know everything I already know and consider important and learn about this “unknown” pearl of the Lazio Antiapennines, describing the more interesting and satisfying itineraries (including all the CAI ones), the
8
most impressive and secret areas, the hermitages perched on rocks, mountain huts and fresh water springs. In no way do I take the liberty of believing that I know everything about these mountains, on the contrary, I have met many local people (trekkers, shepherds, hunters, horsemen, mule drivers) who know a lot more than I do and alas, have never written down all their knowledge. Well, nevertheless, from these wise people I have learned a lot and I have tried to “steal” their precious information. The most important thing one learns from these people, and above all from the tireless visits to these mountains, is that the Lepini mountains (and partly Circeo), still to this day reserve untouched and wild corners that no “expert on the Lepini mountains” can fully know. I dedicate this book to my great-grandparents Maria Ciotti and Emilio Di Fazio who were hermits in the little church of Sant’Erasmo for 20 years, and looked after the hermitage and cultivated in a pioneering way the harsh and steep land which surrounded it, as well as walking for days on end along the old cattle tracks to go off and sell the produce of the land and livestock in the nearby villages. I also dedicate this book to my friends Daniele Nardi and Marco Musichini, who tragically died in the mountains. Daniele died on the 25th February 2019, together with his climbing partner Tom Ballard, while he was attempting the winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m -Karakorum) along the Mummery spur, and who on his local mountain, Semprevisa, was one of its most tireless visitors, connoisseur and disseminator. Marco, instead, died on the 20th January 2020 in Valle d’Aosta precisely while my friends and I were skiing down Monte Rosso di Vertosan (2943 Pennine Alps) in Valle d’Aosta.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS For the writing of this book, I thank with all my heart, not in order of importance, all the people and associations who have given me their precious help: Roberto Capucciati, Silvia Ruju, Lubiana Restaini, Quirino Briganti, Gianni Centra, Florian Parolin, Venusta Pietrocini, Compagnia dei Lepini, Tiziano Camilli, Ass. Rosa Canina, Rocco Reame, Gianpaolo Manciocchi, Roberto Sciscione, Stefano Milani, Mauro Lucatelli, Valerio Mancini, Francesco Cortese, Marco Centra, Giancarlo Arcese, Paolo Rosatelli, Marco Raimondi, Tonino Raponi, Roberto Vallecoccia, Ass. la Miangola, Ass. il Bastone dei Lepini, Assunta Tognoni, Marco Teodonio, Bruno Recchia, Massimo D’Amore, Fabio Cusumano, Giuseppe Volpe, Erasmo Vona, Annamaria Angiello, Mario Angiello, Eleonora Vendetta, Riccardo Cor-
si, Angelo Comini, Roberto Tennenini, Gianluca Salati, Giorgio Abbenda, Alessandro Cianforlini, Luigi Di Girolamo, Mauro Riccioni, Ass. Tutela Altopiano Collemezzo, Ercole Cerilli, Elio Romanzi, Susanna Vecchioni, Fabio Luffarelli, Pro loco Morolo, Pro loco Maenza, Pro loco Rocca Massima, Giovanni Cicchetti, Angelo Gatti, Augusto Catalani, Davide Cipolla, GAM Ceccano, Roberto Martinelli, Corrado Petrella, Paolo Calvani, Romeo Morgia, Elia Marcelli, Giampiero Iacobucci, Christian Pucci and, last but not least, my parents, (with their legendary “testa rossa”, partner of many trips), my partner Jöelle and my son Mattia. I apologise in advance if I have left someone out. Heartfelt thanks.
Entering Grotta Azzurra in a kayak (© Leone)
9
LEPINI, CIRCEO AND ZANNONE
AN EXTRAORDINARY TERRITORY The Lepini mountains are a natural biotope, of important environmental interest, with a presence of biodiversity which is among the most significant in the country. The landscape which has been marked by the karst phenomena, with expanses of woods populated by rich fauna and other peaks covered by lush vegetation, is an element which characterizes the entire territory of the Lepini mountains. The vast and striking mountain area offers many possibilities to hikers: natural itineraries and pilgrim’s routes to be discovered on foot, by climbing, horse riding, mountain biking, and speleology and a series of activities which are carried out in contact with the unspoilt nature of the Lepini Mountains. The whole area enjoys an important presence of natural resources including the testimony of relevant historical-monumental and cultural artefacts. A complex territory whose historical and archaeological aspects merge into its agricultural, silvicultural peculiarities and its characteristic food and wine production, together with the enchanting beauty of the renaissance and medieval cities of art with thousands of years of traditions. The ‘Compagnia dei Lepini’, aims to promote the territorial system at a tourist level from both a common sustainable and eco-compatible perspective. We have been moving in this direction for a long time, and in this perspective, the institution of the Regional Park of the Lepini mountains has been strategic as a means of governance which is necessary to consolidate the territorial system and to give impulse to an integrated development, which is truly sustainable for our communities. In the territory, for its peculiarities and for the huge environmental heritage present, a new model of development must be increasingly asserted, to combine the protection and promotion of the environment. This publication introduces the Lepini area to the Circeo and Zannone area in an original di-
10
gression in which the classic paths have been described efficiently together with the ones which are not as popular or have been forgotten. The guide motivates us to follow these hikes which lead us to discover an extraordinary territory due to the beauty of its wild nature. Walking across the Lepini mountains along its most popular peaks like Semprevisa, Monte Malaina and Monte Gemma but, also, touching areas which are less popular along tourist itineraries like Parentile, Colle Illirio, Campo Lupino, Perrone, il Corvo and the very long Translepini becomes an exercise in “dynamic meditation”. The itineraries, which lead us to Circeo help us discover a treasure chest of biodiversity in which unique landscapes are contained which are very different amongst themselves: dunes, forest, promontory, the humid areas and the islands. The mountain of the legendary sorceress Circe, which Homer mentions, is the true symbol of the territory, still integrated in naturalistic terms and looked after since 1934 by the Circeo National Park. In addition, a census has been conducted on all the mountain huts-bivouacs of the entire Lepini and Circeo area. In the guide book 67 itineraries have been described and in each one precious information on the beauty of the area, difficulty, vertical height gain, total time and other useful information for hikers have been included. This book gives back a territory in which the signs of nature and the outlines of history push us into immersing ourselves in the rediscovery of the beautiful and exciting itineraries with breath-taking scenery, between the Circeo sea and the peaks of the Lepini mountains, this is an experience which in no way should be missed! Quirino Briganti President of the ‘Compagnia dei Lepini’
Monte Circello with Torre Cervia and the mule track of Pietraia (© Tognoni)
11
GEOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION THE LEPINI MOUNTAINS The ancient Roman Lepinus Mons, is an imposing mountain chain situated in the southern part of Lazio whose name originates from the Latin Lapis (stone) to indicate its compact mass nature characterized by white limestone which impressed the primitive inhabitants of Latium Vetus (Ancient Lazio). The Lepini Mountains together with the Ausoni and Aurunci Mountains make up the Antiappenines of Lazio, also called the “Catena dei Volsci”. This group is positioned between the provinces of Rome, Latina and Frosinone (the point of the three meets right on the Lepini, to be
precise south of Fossa dei Felci at an altitude of roughly 1100m). On the north-west the Lepini mountains are separated by the Albani hills with the Arianna valley (Giulianello-Lariano-Valmontone), on the south-east by the Ausoni mountains with the Amaseno valley, and on the northeast by the Preappenines with the Sacco valley (valle Latina) and finally to the south by Monte Circeo and the Pontine marshes. The Lepino massif (which spreads across for roughly 800 square metres) consists of two parallel chains moving towards North-west and South-east, divided by the deep valleys of Rio, Casale and Pisciarello (tectonic line Montelan-
Wolf photographed on the 16 February 2019 near Sella del Semprevisa (© Petrella)
12
ico-Carpineto-Maenza). The western chain is formed by two main mountain groups: to the north M.Lupone (1378 m) and to the south M. Semprevisa (1537 m) which is the highest summit of the Lepini mountains and all the Volsci (followed by M. Petrella 1533 m, on the Aurunci Mountains). The western mountain chain begins to the north with the small subgroup of Colle Illirio (732m, above the commune of Artena) to which follow Punta della Melazza (1084 m), M. Lupone (1378 m), M. Perentile (1023 m), M. Caprea (1477 m), M. Ardicara (1447 m), M. Semprevisa (1537 m), M. Erdigheta (1342 m) and M. la Difesa (923 m, in the commune of Roccagorga). The eastern chain instead is formed by another two groups as well as a sub group situated east-south-east: north of the M.Malaina (1480m made up by the extended plains of Gorgsa), to the south-east lies M.Gemma (1474 m) and continuing along, the subgroup of M.Siserno (M. Campo Lupino 800m). This ridge, starts off north with Cima del Monte (983m, between the communes of Gorga and Sgurgola) to which follows Sprone Maraoni (1328 m), M. Pisciarello (1423 m), M. Malaina (1480 m), M. Gemma (1474 m), M. Cacume (1094 m, in an isolated position), C. Calvello (936 m) and finally the two peaks of the subgroup, that is M. Siserno and M. Campo Lupino (respectively 792 and 800 m, between the communes of Giuliano di Roma, Villa S. Stefano and Ceccano). As well as these, a series of minor reliefs extend between the western ridge and the lowlands of the Pontine Marshes forming the so called chain of the pre-Lepini, and that is the group of M. la Trinità (862 m, between Sermoneta, Bassiano and Sezze), M. Sant’Angelo (382m, between Roccagorga and Priverno) and finally, towards south, the one of M. Seiano (415 m, at Priverno). The chain of the Lepini mountains, as well as many small plateaus which make up the vast Plateau of Gorga (Piani del Lontro, Prati della Valle, Campo di Caccia, etc.) presents large closed depressions (polje, evident superficial karst phenomena) called “plains” of “fields”; among the most important: Campo di Segni, Campo di Montelanico (or plateau of Collemez-
zo), Pian della Faggeta (and its superior ramifications of Piani dell’Erdigheta) and Pian della Croce (or piana di S. Serena). The underground karst shapes are represented by caves and pools (holes, chasms and ponors), which are very numerous (the Lepini mountains are in fact one of the most interesting sites of Lazio in terms of speleology). Among the most important: Ouso di Passo Pratiglio (the deepest in Lazio, with its -840 m), Ouso della Rava Bianca (the second, in terms of depth, in Lazio) Grotta del Formale (the fourth longest in Lazio, with its 2920 m of total length), Abisso Consolini (-600 m of depth), etc. This imposing karst system causes these mountains to have no important water courses, this is because across the extended underground circulation, the meteoric waters are captured and then they go to feed the large springs situated especially along the western foothills. The superficial hydrological circulation is strictly linked to important weather events and all the water courses are of a seasonal-torrential regime.. Among the most important we remember il Rio (which leads into the river Sacco), Fosso di M.Acuto (Giuliano di Roma), il Fosso le Mole (channels the waters into Amaseno), Fosso della Valle (Bassiano), Fosso di Roccagorga and Valle (di Patrica). There are also many waterfalls which are often dry, the largest and worthy of note are: the waterfall of Sant’Angelo (often dry) situated near the hermitage of Sant’ Angelo in the commune of Morolo at an altitude of approximately 830 m; and the characteristic and spectacular water of Valle Naforte (there is water only after rainy periods or when the snow melts) positioned on the southern side of monte Semprevisa in the commune of Carpineto Romano at an altitude of 1020m while the copious waterfall of Rapiglio which comes from the Rapiglio cave in the commune of Carpineto Romano, at an altitude of roughly 850 m. The central part of the area offers a decent amount of water springs at altitude, often correlated with the presence of clay formations. They have a variable flow rate and some are subject to drying out during the summer season, and are strictly connected to precipitation. Among the highest: Fonte S. Antone 1005 m (Morolo), Acqua
13
valle Perti 1047 m (Maenza / Carpineto), Fonte della Formica 1070 m (Carpineto), Fontana Santa Serena 1105 m (Supino), Fontana Formella 1124 m (Gorga), Fontana Canai 1150 m (Gorga), Fonte Semisuvia 1150 m (Maenza), Acqua Mezzavalle 1214 m [undrinkable (Carpineto)], Bocca del Lupo 1235 m (Carpineto), Risorgenza San Marino 1270 m (Gorga), Fontana del Merlo 1321 m (Gorga), Fontana la Spina 1329 m (Supino), Sorgente del Pisciarello 1335 m (Morolo) and Fontana del Sambuco 1350 m (Carpineto). There are many wells, cisterns and a few ponds inside old dolines or in the karst fields where the red ground and/or tuff do not allow the water to percolate through. These are represented by very few, but characteristic mirrors of water: Stagni cava Valle del Canneto 110 m (Parco S. Martino Priverno), Laghetto dell’Antignana 380 m (Bassiano), lake of Pantano 690 m (Bassiano),
14
lakes of Costa Pecci 700 m (Carpineto), stagno Pozzo di Monte 701 m (Norma), lake of Selva 715m (Norma), Laghetto Casalicchio 725m (Carpineto), Volubro di Collemezzo 730 m (Montelanico), stagno Pantana del Camenardo 748 m (Montelanico), lakes of Campo di Segni 835 - 839 m (Segni) and lake of Monte Ermo 1297 m (Sgurgola); (there was once the characteristic lake of Occhiali or delle Fosse at 1325 m in the commune of Morolo). The aquifer is fed by almost all the rain water which filters through inside its karst system, across cracks, ponors and other unknown systems. There are many fresh water and sulphurous springs in the foothills and the aquifers of the Pontine Marshes, which directly depend on the large karst system of the Lepini mountains. The most important are the Ninfa river, from the Monticchio water springs (from which the Cava-
ta river originates), from the water sources of the Mola dei Preti and Acquapuzza, Fosselloni and the Ufente river (which forms two lakes, Vescovo and Nero), Fontana del Muro and Pedicata. It is important to understand that the Lepini mountains are among the mountain groups with the highest biodiversity in Lazio, where there are corners of natural life to be admired in silence. The perfect symbol to witness all this is the fantastic Ninfa Gardens, which represents a natural monument of the Italian Republic and is protected by the WWF as an Oasis. The garden is situated in the territory of Cisterna di Latina, bordering with Norma and Sermoneta. It is a typical English garden, initiated by Gelasio Caetani in 1921, in the area which is the vanished medieval city of Ninfa, of which today only ruins remain, some of which were restored during the creation of the garden. The New York Times vot-
ed the Ninfa Gardens as the most beautiful and romantic garden in the world. But the Lepini mountains are also an open air archaeological park, which describe the presence of Prehistoric man, as well as that of dinosaurs. Briefly we can remind you of a few sites: Grotta Iolanda, Arnalo dei Bufali and the Cava (Palaeolithic settlements); Fosso Brivolco ex Petrianni quarry (Paleonthological site with dinosaur prints). Then there is the history of its dwellings, where numerous monuments from Roman or medieval eras live in harmony with nature, and allow one to experience past emotions. Among these areas it is important to remember: Polygonal Walls of Segni and Norba; The walls and Roman villa of Sezze; Via Appia; Civita di Artena; Civita di Privernum; the Temple of Hercules; The Abbey of Fossanova; the Abbey of Valvisciolo; the Castle Caetani of Sermoneta; the Castle of One of the lakes at Campo di Segni (© Vona)
15
Maenza, of Monte Acuto and the ones of Colonna di Morolo. In particular some castle ruins and towers on rocks are worth mentioning: Torre Vittoria (tower of Monticchio or Pretrara) (Sermoneta); Torre Acquapuzza (Sermoneta); Castello di Montelongo (Montelanico); Castello di Monte Trevi (Sezze); Castello di Collemezzo (Montelanico); Castello di Monte Prunio (Montelanico); Torre dei Pani (Sezze); Torre dei Masi (Sezze-Roccagorga); Torretta Rocchigiana, Towers of Mole Sante Mole Comuni (Priverno). Among the “architectural” symbols of the area, outside the inhabited centres, there is a more sobre building which for centuries was used by farmers, shepherds and lumberjacks, it is the Capanna Lepina. Made up of stone walls which are roughly one metre high, on which poles placed in a “pyramid” shape, held up bunches of rope grass (Ampelodesma) or stubble. Its flooring consisted of clay or pebbles and next to the
hearth there was a straw mattress. Originally, the hut was the only abode, while for others instead, it was a seasonal shelter both for people and for animals or also used as a storage room, especially during periods of transhumance, tree cutting and grape harvesting. Throughout the years though, almost all have been abandoned. In any case it is still possible to see the remains of ancient villages of huts in some internal areas of the mountain chain; the most important ones are Le Campore (Cori); Valle Nazzani (Carpineto); Valle Pera (Norma); Valvisciolo (Carpineto); Caprei (Carpineto); I Ruschi (Bassiano); Valle La Caccia (Roccagorga); Valle Nardi (Roccagorga); Piani dell’Erdigheta (Carpineto). All of this was surrounded by sanctuaries and hermitages, always visited by the devoted population of the Lepini mountains who in many cases built them in remote and isolated areas which were difficult to access so as to dedicate Rapiglio’s water fountain (© Funaro)
16
themselves more devoutly to their contemplation, meditation and praying. Following is a short list of the rocky hermitages on the Lepini mountains: Monastery ruins of Santa Maria di Mirteto c. 300 m (Norma); Remains of the temple of Giunone Lucina 440 m (Norma); Santuario del Crocefisso 448 m (Bassiano); Chiesetta della Santissima Trinità al M. Campazzano 673 m (Segni); Chiesetta di San Leonardo 706 m (Sgurgola); Ruderi Abbazia di Malvisciolo o di Santo Stefano di valle Roscina 742 m (Carpineto); Santuario di San Luca 745 m (Maenza); Ruderi chiesetta di Santa Secondina 770 m (Sgurgola); Santuario Madonna di Collemezzo 775 m (Montelanico); Ruderi Eremo di San Tommaso Becket c. 800 m (Carpineto); Eremo di Sant’Angelo 820 m (Morolo); Eremo di Sant’Erasmo 849 m (Roc-
cagorga); Santuario della Santissima Trinità 862 m (Bassiano); Ruderi Eremo di San Bartolomeo dei Valloni c. 900 m (Carpineto); Chiesa dell’Immacolata sul M. Cacume 1094 m [ex Monastero di San Michele Arcangelo] (Patrica). CIRCEO The Promontory of Circeo on the southern edge of the Pontine Marshes, is roughly 15 km as the crow flies from the first ramifications of the Lepini-Ausoni mountains, and is just like a bastion on the Tyrrhenian sea which to the north, overlooks the vast Pontine Marshes and to the south towards the Pontine islands. From the Lepini mountains, it appears on the horizon as a giant shape of a sleeping man (they say it is the witch..!) whose nose is in fact characterized by A short visit to the panoramic Rave (© Funaro)
17
the peak (Picco di Circe). From Gaeta, Sperlonga and Terracina instead, Circeo looks just like an island, the island of Eea which the ancient mariners saw rising up from the sea, and was dominated by the Sorceress who had powers to transform men. Mount Circeo consists of a rocky mass which is 6 km long and 2 km wide, with an almost continuous ridge line, which runs slightly downhill from west to east. Along this ridge the following main peaks rise (from west to east): vetta di Paola (picco d’Istria) 420m, picco di Circe 541m, punta di Torre Moresca 462m, punta di Vasca Moresca 421m, punta del Fortino di Cretarossa 395m, monte Circello (punta di Cristoforo or del Semaforo) 448m and punta dell’Acropoli (le Crocette) 385m. To this, three hills are added onto the eastern side: Peretto 181m, Guardia Orlando 162m and Monticchio 114m, which shut off the basin in which the town of San Felice Circeo rises west-north-west.
18
The promontory is subdivided into two main sides, the northern one known as Quarto freddo, and the southern one known as Quarto Caldo. The first is characterized by a thick and cool holly oak forest with a few olive groves, while the second one runs down into the sea with steeper and harsher slopes, interrupted by imposing rock faces and Mediterranean bush. This last side is covered in caves, almost all are present on the cliffs which touch the water or further up and even underwater. Following are the names of the known sea caves which can be visited using small boats (kayaks) or on foot, and others only by expert freedivers and scuba divers (not recommended to non experts). In order from east (Torre Fico) to west (Torre Paola) you will find the caves of: Torre Fico, Stefanini, del Cervide, del Presepio (or del Calice), Azzurra, delle Capre, dell’Impiso (or dell’Impiccato), del Fossellone (communicating with the Elena cave), Anna, del Faro, dell’Acquario, of Torre Cervia,
Enzo Lanzuisi, dell’Alabastro (or delle Corvine), Barbara, le Cattedrali or 5 caves (dei Pesci, delle Palme, della Fessura, Anna, dei 3 Luigi), of the Anfore, del Rimbombo, dei Prigionieri (o dei Bombardieri), of Maga Circe (or of the Precipizio), Breuil, of the Bombardiere, of Ulisse or else of Paola or Aperta (internal right hand cave: grotta del Laghetto or dell’Isolotto, preceded by the Oscura Spelonca), and finally the cave Spaccata di Torre Paola (superior internal cavity Antro Padula). All these caves are never far from gorgeous bays and little inlets, we list the most interesting: the little beach of Porto (or di Torre Fico), the Rinascente, twin inlet of Punta Rossa, the bay of hotel Punta Rossa, bay Le Casette, beach of Pinguini, inlet of Piscinetta, bay of Alabastro, inlet of Calozza, Moresca bay (beach of the Prigionieri or of the Bombardieri) and the little beach of Ulisse (or of Torre Paola).
As well as these there are other caves, which are more distant from the sea, some are very well known for the prehistoric remains which can be found inside the caves. Among these: grotta Guattari, grotta d’Antrassi and grotta dei Mammelloni. On the mountain, as well as along its slopes, there are many important archaeological remains (usually from Roman times) which are of great value. Among these I will mention a few: Mura ciclopiche dell’Acropoli di Circei; Fortino di Creta Rossa; Tempio di Venere; Grotta della Sibilla; Guardia Orlando. As well as these, along the coasts, the defence towers against the Saracen Pirates (1562) are still present, which still to this day are intact (except for one which is in ruins and another one being restructured): Torre Paola, Torre Moresca or Falconara (ruins), Torre Cervia or Torraccia, Torre Fico, Torre Vittoria and Torre Olevola.
M. Circeo’s Quarto freddo from Lake di Paola (© Tognoni)
19
The promontory does not have many fresh water springs but, especially on the northern side, some important springs are present, among these: sorgente Mezzomonte, sorgente Orto Carbone (currently dry) and Copella fountain. In this guide book I have described all the Circeo paths which are more or less frequented and which climb up Mount Circeo itself. However there are many other itineraries in the Park that I have not included since, in my opinion, they have fallen into disuse (not viable), some are almost all flat and others, instead, are very touristy, so moving away from the main theme of this book. ZANNONE A true pearl of the Mediterranean which rises north-east of Ponza and is part of the Pontine islands (Ponza, Ventotene, Palmarola, Zannone,
S.Stefano and Gavi). This island though, is not related to its “step sisters”, in fact it doesn’t have any volcanic origins but consists of limestone like its brother Circeo. In fact, it boasts an important record: here the most ancient rocks of Lazio were found, dating back to the dinosaur era (approx. 250 million years ago, Triassic). This consists of fossil remains made up of thousands of living organisms since it was an ex coral reef. Since Zannone is part of the Circeo National Park it is completely uninhabited and its only anthropic sign, as well as the lighthouse with attached house for the light house warden, is the ruin of the ancient Benedictine convent with an old hunting lodge nearby. The island, as opposed to the rest of the archipelago (where the settlers destroyed any trace of the original forest), has maintained a plant landscape which is very similar to the one its first visitors encountered thousands of years
The sacred entrance into the Alabastro cave (© Cortese)
20
ago. Zannone, even if it was an area settled by humans since the dark ages, was never inhabited permanently, but for long periods it welcomed hermits, and after that, monks. The ruins of the Benedictine convent date back to the XIII century, the convent consisted of a church, a convent and a parish, as well as some vineyards, the pigeon house and the fish farm. In 1246 the monastery became Cistercian under the direct jurisdiction of Fossanova, but, quickly, the remarkable difficulties of staying permanently on the island and the growing raids of the Saracen pirates proclaimed the definitive abandonment of the monastery towards the end of the XIII century. Cala del Varo, is currently the only docking area
and the best one on the island, permitted only with good weather and optimum sea conditions (but currently prohibited by PAI due to geological instability), an inlet with rocky banks facing Ponza. From here, continuing the circumnavigation towards south-east (right) you will find the following points of interest: punta Varo, cala delle Grottelle, punta del Monaco (with the remains of a fish farm dating back to Roman times), the cliffs of Monaco, punta di Levante, punta di Lauro, scoglio Calcare, Spiaggetta, capo Negro (light house), cala del Procidano, cala del Mariuolo (cave and cliffs of Mariuolo) and punta Lunghitiello.
The view towards Palmarola from the island of Zannone (© Pietrocini)
21
KEY TO READING ITINERARIES AND LEGEND All itineraries have been covered and checked right up to the publication date of this guide book. The information described can be subject to change due to external factors which are beyond our control and could happen over time and with changes in the passing of seasons. Intense meteorological conditions, rock or soil instability, or the interference of man could radically modify the conditions and characteristics of the itinerary. The information for each itinerary has been organized in the following way. Opening horizontal band: progressive number, province, geographical area, name of itinerary. Vertical left hand side band: province geographical area, title of itinerary, progressive number. Left hand side Vertical column: contains fundamental technical information to quickly understand the itinerary. Right hand side vertical column: contains a few technical notes, the detailed description of the itinerary and the elevation profile. Opposite page: Lay-out with the areas and the waypoints crossed.
With the data and information organized in this order, you will manage to understand the characteristics of the itinerary and verify if it suits your expectations, experience and the type of physical effort and time necessary to complete it. I encourage you to always check that what you are about to tackle is in line with your physical and technical preparation to avoid finding yourself in situations or environments which become difficult to manage. NAMES OF ITINERARIES Usually the name of the itinerary respects the place name of the territory and often indicates the line followed (e.g. ridge…) or else one of the areas encountered. In some cases, especially for the itineraries “created” by the author, the name of the path has been invented depending
22
on historical facts, points of interest, etc. In addition, on all the CAI paths the land register reference number is included. LEFT HAND SIDE VERTICAL COLUMN Beauty Probably the most difficult quality to assign to an itinerary; the evaluation is obviously personal and rewards the different views and the variety of environments encountered throughout the walk. The mountains and valleys of this sector all deserve five stars, however a categorization is necessary; do not be fooled by the opinion expressed, it is often fruit of an overall evaluation and obviously short itineraries offer different characteristics to a long traverse…always choose where to walk, always and above all depending on your experience.
Difficulties Indicates the difficulty according to the table on page 24 Total Vertical Height Gain To evaluate the vertical height gain all the uphill sections of each itinerary have been taken into consideration, collecting them directly from the GPS tracks; it is an indicative value which allows you to evaluate the effort required to finish the itinerary. Total Length The total kilometres of the itinerary from start to finish are indicated here; if it is a circuit it is an overall total length, otherwise it indicates the distance covered during the uphill section. As for the vertical height gain, the total length is extracted directly from the GPS tracks.
Duration Time It is an average value which has been worked out taking into consideration the length and vertical height of the itinerary proceeding with a regular and steady pace; with the increasing difficulty of the itinerary a person in good physical shape is considered. As for the distance the estimate is overall only if it is a circuit. The duration time describing each itinerary has been calculated according to the average pace of an expert hiker, without taking into account any eventual breaks. Water sources All water sources are indicated (fresh water springs, fountains, etc.) and not only perennial ones. In fact it is important to take into consideration that many of these, during some periods of the year, are dry; others, instead, offer water which is visibly undrinkable. The symbols on the map in fact are divided into two types. The symbol of a fountain was used for the more important sources and the ones that are easier to use, where it is usually easy to find drinking water. The drop symbol, instead, indicates water sources which are not as popular, where it is most likely to find them dry or undrinkable and often without a proper fountain. Mountain huts or bivouacs You will find the names of any mountain huts/bivouacs found along the itinerary (or nearby). Not all of them are open, some are looked after by a warden, and it is best to phone the warden before hand if you wish to sleep overnight or eat something. Trail signposts You will find the types of signs present on the itinerary indicated (often difficult to find since they are old or very rare).
Best time of year to access The graphics used allow you to quickly evaluate during which period of the year it is best to tackle the itinerary. The majority of paths are often exposed to the sun, and keeping in mind the modest altitude, during summer time many of these itineraries can become unadvisable. Due to the high concentration of flies and horse flies during the hotter season, it becomes automatic to frequent only a small number of paths even in mid summer. The colour green indicates the best period, the colour yellow means it is necessary to be careful of the terrain’s conditions and the average temperatures of the period, red instead indicates the months where it is not recommended to tackle the itinerary. These evaluations though do not take into consideration the rare snowfalls which sometimes cover these mountains. In fact, many of these itineraries, even if recommended during the middle of winter, should be evaluated with a lot more care in case of snow. QR-code In some pages you will find a QR-Code with indications for its use. Wilderness symbol Indicates all the itineraries which develop in wild areas, solitary or not very popular. These itineraries do not offer any sign posts (or else they are missing for long sections) and often the tracks are difficult to interpret. These paths, therefore, are reserved for expert excursionists who are used to finding their way and progressing on this “particular” terrain.
23
Technical Introduzione introduction tecnica
RIGHT HAND VERTICAL COLUMN Main text General characteristics of the itinerary Short description and introduction note to the general characteristics of the itinerary. Description Complete description of itinerary. Variants: eventual variants to return. Elevation profile Quickly indicates the positive and negative gradients the itinerary offers.
OPPOSITE PAGE Map Allows to visualize the total length of the itinerary with indication on the main reference points for orienteering, the waypoints which you will find in the description and the main areas and towns reached by the itinerary. The camera or (even the asterisk) indicates a panoramic point which is especially beautiful where its recommended to take a break. In the GPX files which you can download by registering the Guide with the distinct code you will find all the tracks and waypoints.
CLASSIFICATION OF THE ITINERARIES DEPENDING ON THEIR DIFFICULTY
24
T
T =Tourist Itineraries which run along lanes, mule tracks or easy paths, with evident routes and do not offer uncertainty or orienteering problems. They are usually carried out below 2000m and usually consist of access paths to alpine pastures or mountain huts. They require some knowledge of mountain environments and fitness for walking.
E
E = Excursionist Itineraries which almost always run along paths, or else along tracks on varied terrain (pasture land, debris, screes), usually with sign posts; can be short, flat sections or slightly inclined with residue snow, and in case of falling, the sliding down can be stopped within a short distance and is without dangers. They often develop along open terrain, without paths but not problematic, always with adequate sign posting. They may develop along steep slopes; the exposed sections are generally protected (barriers) or can be carried out in safety (cables). They may have single passages on rock, not exposed, or short sections which are not tiring nor difficult thanks to equipment (ladders, pegs, cables) which do not require specific gear (harness, carabiners, etc). They require a sense of orienteering, as well as a certain amount of experience and knowledge of mountainous terrain, fitness in walking, as well as adequate footwear and gear.
EE
EE = for expert excursionists Itineraries which are usually sign posted but that require ability to move along particular terrain. Paths or tracks on arduous and treacherous terrain (steep slopes and/or slippery on grass, or mixed with rocks and grass, or rock and debris). Varied terrain at relatively high altitudes (scree, short and not steep snow fields, open slopes with no points of reference, etc). Rocky sections, with slight technical difficulties (equipped routes, vie ferrate, the least difficult). Excluding itineraries along glaciers, even if flat and/or with no crevasses on appearance (because crossing them would require the use of a rope and ice axe and knowledge of belaying manoeuvres). You will need: experience in the mountains in general and good knowledge of alpine environments; a steady step and must not suffer from vertigo; equipment, gear and adequate physical preparation.
EEA
EEA = for expert excursionists with gear Equipped routes or vie ferrate, the use of self belay devices are necessary (harness, energy absorber, carabiners, Kevlar threads) and personal protection gear (helmet, gloves).
F
CAUTION: Any mountaineering difficulty must be considered superior to excursion difficulties. F = Easy, does not present any specific difficulties It is the easiest climbing grade, you have to know how to choose foot holds and often it is necessary to use hands to keep your balance; you can find moves of I and II grade and the progression could be not so easy for anyone suffering from vertigo.
PD
PD = Not very difficult, presents a few mountaineering difficulties on rock The single moves on rock can reach up to III grade and often mountain progression is necessary. You have to move one limb at a time and the use of hands is continuous on good holds.
Looking at Ardicara while heading up Semprevisa on skis (© Funaro)
25
RECOMMENDATIONS AND SAFETY 25 years have now passed since I first started visiting the Lepini mountains and even now I am amazed at so much beauty but above all I am amazed how, still to this day, these mountains are still wild. I find that these mountains, apart from glaciers and large rock faces, have nothing to envy the more famous mountain groups in Italy, on the contrary, here you also have the sea!!! Not only, if we compare the paths of the Lepini mountains and the ones of Circeo to the majority of normal alpine paths, it is possible to notice how the latter are a lot more “tamed” compared to the former. For this reason one must never underestimate these mountains since they may offer unpleas-
ant surprises, due to the unexpected length of the trails, to the almost absent tracks, to faded or rare sign posting, to the surprising vegetation and the underestimation of the itinerary to be tackled. But for this same reason, it is possible to discover stellar sensations thanks to uncontaminated nature, walking in silence on these faint tracks becomes a real and proper dynamic meditation. In any case, roaming these areas means heading into wild and solitary corners of nature where a few dangers are hidden and are unknown to many. One above all is the massive concentration of underground cavities which for the majority of the times have a well like A break at Colle Trevi (© Funaro)
26
entrance (ousi) and are unmarked. On Circeo instead, areal ridges reign supreme, overlooking the rock faces and the impenetrable Mediterranean bush. Therefore it is very important to watch where the track goes and where you put your feet. Like all mountains, it is important to remember, even if at a relatively low altitude, the weather can change quickly putting any single hiker in danger. Therefore as well as checking the weather forecast, it is important to bring indispensable clothing for any eventual thunderstorm or a sudden drop in temperature. It is also important to realise that many water springs are dry, especially during periods of drought or intense cold. In addition, a careful evaluation of the itinerary and a correct reading of the map (recommended, if needed, to get acquainted with a bit of topography) can make everything all the more pleasant and relaxing. The GPS cannot and must not substitute the use of a paper map but above all cannot replace experience, caution and common sense; also it is important to know that the GPS tracks of the itineraries described here are not always very precise, but they vary from area to area depending on the quality of the satellite’s signal. I would like to remind you that the majority of the mountain huts on the Lepini mountains do not have a hut warden and often are devoid of many comforts (water…), some are not fit to live in (or almost) and others, are shut and you need to book to retrieve the keys; while on Circeo they are absent (maybe, shortly a Rifugio Marino on the island of Zannone will be built). There aren’t any very dangerous animals but it is still important to be careful of some, such as wild dogs, wild boars, wolves and vipers. Other “large” animals which can be easily encountered on these mountains are: fox, badgers, fallow deer, horses, cows, sheep, goats and hares (without mentioning the immense number of birds, birds of prey and small mammals). As well as these, when it is hot, there is a large concentration of flies and horse flies, I recommend to always bring (except for the winter season) an insect repellent. In the areas frequented by animals (especially on the island of Zannone)
it is not difficult to encounter the dreaded ticks. During November, December and January, in many areas there is another annoying and more important danger for hikers and that is the hunting season of wild boar (find out before hand, depending on the Lazio hunting calendar and the areas assigned to the hunters). GENERAL RULES FOR HIKING - Always choose itineraries according to your physical and technical abilities, adequately documenting yourself on the area you will visit. If you walk in a group aim for the duration based on the slowest hikers of the group. Always study alternative itineraries. - Make sure you wear clothing and equipment which is appropriate for the itinerary chosen. Bring the necessary gear in case of an emergency in your back pack. -It is best not to go hiking in the mountains on your own, and if you do, tell someone your planned itinerary as well as an alternative itinerary. -Find out and evaluate the weather conditions, and during the excursion, monitor it all the time. Also avoid leaving the tracks. -When in doubt, head back. Often it is better to give up rather than risking the hidden danger of bad weather or wanting to overcome extreme distances or difficulties which are beyond your strength, ability and equipment. -Always bring your waste back down, and if possible, even what has been left behind by others. Respect flora, fauna and everything that surrounds you. Also respect the local traditions and cultures. For all emergencies in the mountains or demanding areas or caves call 112 or the number (+39) 3486131300, or else eventually communicate by radio: Rete Radio Montana channel 8-16 vhf (we recommend you register on its website).
27
EQUIPMENT ESSENTIAL: - Clothing: lightweight and technical hiking boots, long technical socks, comfortable trousers best if anti-tear, technical t-shirt (or else a vest made of cotton-lamb’s wool combined with a cotton or heavier flannel shirt), thermal top (or else a woolly sweater 100% wool), windproof jacket and/or waterproof shell and a spare t-shirt. - Sturdy and comfortable back pack (min 20L): water bottle (with a wide mouth, to better fill it up with water in some water fountains), first aid kit (plasters, bandages, compeed, emergency tourniquet, tape, various and personal medicine…), good tissues, insect repellent and survival kit (knife, saw, fire striker, bait, emergency bivvy sack or space blanket, 10 metres of paracord, small pot and small emergency light). - Accessories: map of area (and/or gps), compass, altimeter, whistle, cell phone, vhf radio, sun hat, woolly hat, gloves, sun glasses and telescopic trekking poles (or else the traditional wooden walking stick).
OPTIONAL: (depending on the characteristics of the chosen itinerary): - Snow: gaiters, trail crampons, telescopic poles with wide baskets and possibly snow shoes or touring skis (and boots). - Ice: - crampon compatible boots or semi automatic crampons, crampons and ice axe. ITINERARIES PD WITH MOVES OF III° GRADE ON ROCK Helmet, harness, rope (at least 30m), a few quick-draws, carabiners, belay device, protections (cams, nuts…), Kevlar threads and slings. - Staying overnight in a mountain hut without a warden: headlamp, sleeping bag (or woolen blanket), mat, toothbrush and tooth paste and various spare t-shirts, underwear, socks). - Overnight stay in tent: trekking tent (or military style canvas), primus stove, butane tank, pot, bowl, fork/spoon, lighter (and/or matchstick), machete (or survival knife), saw, headlamp, sleeping bag (or woolen blanket), mat, toothpaste and toothbrush and spare clothes(tshirts, socks and underwear).
The author opening the route Welcome Home on M. Castellone (© Martinelli)
28
29
LEPINI MOUNTAIN HUTS It has never been very popular in the Lepini mountains to go on mountain hut tours like other parts of Italy and in fact few people are aware of the existence of this type of structure. These huts are often very Spartan, and can be used as bivouacs in case of emergency, to join up long itineraries (like the Alta via) or as a destination in itself to enjoy yourself in the middle of almost unspoilt nature. Usually they are private constructions but kept open deliberately to act as emergency shelters for hikers or else closed but with keys available by prior arrangement with the warden. Others, instead, are actually managed like alpine huts and in addition to overnight accommodation also offer meals (all
this has to be booked in advance and is limited according to the number of people and the season). The only thing missing in these places is water, with few exceptions, therefore you need to take that into account. Obviously, if you use these structures you need to behave in a civilised manner and with the utmost respect. Both inside and outside should be left as clean as you found it and if you can, more welcoming and with more supplies (for example if would be a good idea for everybody who uses these facilities to leave some long-life food products to eat or drink or where possible a contribution in cash)
Capanna Francischella (Hotel Pinguino), one of the most popular bivouacs on Lontro (© Funaro)
30
RIFUGIO ABBOCCATORA
555m
RIFUGIO JO VOLUBRO
RIFUGIO OSTERIA DEL PORTO
750m
RIFUGIO VALLE FORANA
© Gatti
845m
RISTORANTE-OSTELLO L’EREMO
865m
RIFUGIO STAZZO CANALI
Hut warden (on reservation). For info: Danilo Davelli +39 3200575252 www.cesadeimontilepini.com Segni – Valle Piscialoglio, 41.667178, 12.970287 © Davelli
880m
Usually open. For info: Ass. La Miangola +39 3701521638 Segni – on the slopes of Fosse del Pero, 41.670813, 12.985506 © Raimondi
RIFUGIO LA CESA DEI MONTI LEPINI 870m Hut warden (on reservation. For info: Ass. la Cesa dei Monti Lepini - 347 1043102 Segni – a nord di M.te Locino, 41.666619, 12.969451) © Corsi
RIFUGIO MARIONE
© Centra
849m
(Rifugio Sant’Erasmo) Hut warden (on reservation). For info: Elio Romanzi - 3338838057 Roccagorga – south of M. Pizzone, end of asphalt road adjacent to l’Eremo di Sant’Erasmo, 41.544818, 13.122534. Yes water
Hut warden (on reservation). For info: Angelo Gatti 3478618274 Patrica – south of M Cacume, further down than Cereso sul Piano la Noce, 41.568076, 13.228783. Yes water
RIFUGIO DELL’ESCURSIONISTA
812m
Hut warden (on reservation). For info: Tiziano Camilli – Ass. Rosa canina +39 3293146961 Gorga – in the centre of v. Forana, 41.659526, 13.130063
(Cesa Caluvejo) Usually open. For info: Pro loco Maenza 3286849372 Maenza – south of Colle Calvello, 41.541747, 13.205779
RIFUGIO PIZZACCHIO
736m
Restructured but currently not fit to live in. For info: Associazione Tutela Altopiano Collemezzo 3204284639 – 3289119753 – 3297964680 Montelanico – adjacent to lake Volubro on the plains of Collemezzo, 41.619702, 13.012682
(Casetta Forestale) Usually shut but can be used subject to prior agreement. For info: Gruppo Montagna 1 069678458 – 3398701187 https://sites.google.com/site/ gruppomontagna1 Cori – in the area Canali, 41.626066, 12.948809
885m
(Rifugio Scocciapane) Hut warden (on reservation. For info: Angelo Gatti - 3478618274 Patrica – south of M Cacume, just below the water fountain Scorciapane, 41.570370, 13.231691. Yes water
CAPANNA GONNELLA
912m
(Rifugio el Corvo) Usually open For info: Compagnia Arcieri di Carpineto Romano Carpineto Romano – near the road below Acquicciola, 41.570565, 13.117399). Yes water
CAPANNA DE FRANCISCO
930m
Usually open. For info: Tiziano Camilli - Ass. Rosa Canina - 3293146961 Gorga – towards the end of v. Forana right orographic side, 41.659630, 13.142228
31
RIFUGIO SANTA MARIA
945m
RIFUGIO GRUPPO IPPICO CAPREO 1030m
Usually open. For info: Tiziano Camilli Ass. Rosa Canina - 3293146961 Gorga – north-west of Rave S. Maria, 41.658775, 13.148227
RIFUGIO CASALE SCARANA
1045m
Usually closed but can be used upon prior agreement. For info: Gruppo Ippico Capreo +39 3382553750 Carpineto Romano – Valle Cengia, along the path 713 delle Matreagne, 41.597062, 13.052437
RIFUGIO LIBERAMONTE
(Rifugio Forestale Scarano) In ruins –only for emergency. Carpineto – east of Cima Caprarella, small detour to the right of the path, 724, 41.588160, 13.153160
RIFUGIO BONIFACIO
1085m
CAPANNA MAGUCCIO
Disused – only for emergency. Gorga – along the dirt road, heading up shortly before Fontana Canai, 41.626350, 13.146184. Yes water (nearby)
RIFUGIO CASETTA MARTORELLI
1190m
Usually open. Morolo – near the ruins of capanna Martorelli, at the entrance of valle Cupa, 41.647178, 13.153960
RIFUGIO DELL’ORSO
1220m
Usually open – only for emergency. For info: Ass. Amici del Cavallo. Gorga – Fossa dell’Orso, 41.630414, 13.144587
1056m
(Rifugio Sant’Angelo) Usually open. For info: Proloco di Bassiano Bassiano – along the road above the water spring S. Angelo, 41.566230, 13.067306
1090m
(Rifugio Santa Serena) Usually open For info: Pro loco Supino Supino – Pian della Croce, near the play ground, 41.601781, 13.165525. Yes water (nearby)
RIFUGIO CANAI
1200m Usually open. Gorga – south of Cima Piccolaro, 41.629189, 13.149040
RIFUGI PASTORALI DEL LONTRO 1257/1278m (Capanne: Albucci, Francischella, D’Aligi, Girone, Gaetano, Agliocco, Tiberioe Caglineglio) Usually all open. Morolo – Piani del Lontro, 41.636963, 13.172074
© Vendetta
RIFUGIO DELLA VETICA
1250m
(Rifugio dei Cacciatori) Usually open. Morolo – South of Rave la Monna, 41.621768, 13.175235
RIFUGIO CROCE I PRETI
1319m
(Capanna de Mirco) Usually open. Morolo – near Croce dei Preti, 41.629794, 13.174737
We report the presence of other two mountain huts, which for logistical reasons, have not been included in this list: Rifugio Associazione Butteri dei M.Lepini, altitude 660m, for info +39 3397370556 (Sezze-valle 3 Pozzi); Rifugio la Casermetta, altitude of 700m, for info +39 3479097963 (Sermoneta - west of M.Furchiavecchia).
32
A welcoming appetizer at the rifugio Valle Forana (© Funaro)
33
LEPINI CIRCEO AND ISOLA ZANNONE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67
34
Translepini (monti Lepini -Cima Nardi) La Civita (Colle Illirio) Flying in the sky (Rocca Massima) Punta della Melazza (m. Grugliano) Cresta sud-sud-ovest (m. Lupone) Serrone lungo (m. Lupone) Jo volubro and costa delle tombelle (m. Lupone) Costa delle Tombelle (m. Lupone) Le fosse (m. Lupone) Valle dell’inferno (m. Lupone) De Paolis Circuit (m. Lupone) Via della mola (Segni) Via Crucis (m. Campazzano) Traverse of La Croce (m. La Croce) Acqua Mezzavalle (m. Semprevisa) Piani dell’Erdigheta Direttissima di Giulianeglio (m. Semprevisa) Monte Pizzone (m. Semprevisa) Fosso di sant’Angelo (m. Semprevisa) I Querciai (m. Semprevisa) Valle Naforte (m. Semprevisa) Valle della fota (m. Semprevisa) Old Path (m. Pizzone) The Bandit Tour (Sella del Semprevisa) Le Roccette (m. Erdigheta) Le Matreagne Valle Sanguinetti (m. Caprea) Valle le gotte and Matreagne (m. Caprea) Normal Route (Perrone del Corvo) Ritarra Circuit Giro dei Monaci Pantano Circuit Via Pretara Vecchia The Grande Faggio Circuit San Marino Tour Monte Malaina Passo Pratiglio North-East Ridge Southern Ridge Fosse Agneluca Piani del Lontro Valle Civita (sprone Maraoni) Valle Sant’Angelo (sprone Maraoni) Monte Semprevina Tour of the mountain huts (sprone Maraoni) Colle Rotondo and Prati della Valle (sp. Maraoni) Anello dei santi (cima del Monte) Anello di valle Cupa (m. Filaro) The Path of the South Eastern ridges (m. Gemma) The Gemma Figure of 8 (m. Gemma) Fossa dei Felci (m. Gemma) Bosco del Tassetto (m. Gemma) Casale scarana (m. Gemma) Sella Pennicali (m. Gemma) Eastern Ridge (m. Gemma) Via Dantesca (m. Cacume) Passo cerasole (m. Cacume) . Punta di Mastro Marco (m. Cacume) Caluvejo Path (c. Calvello) Tour of the wells (m. Siserno) Road of Pietracupa Ancient via Severiana Western Ridge Eastern Ridge Cyclopean Walls Scree Circle of Legends Zannone Circuit
Monti Lepini > Occidentali e Orientali Monte Lupone > Artena Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Cori Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Montelanico Monte Lupone > Norma Monte Lupone > Rocca Massima Monte Lupone > Cori Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Segni Monte Lupone > Montelanico Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Roccagorga Monte Semprevisa > Bassiano Monte Semprevisa > Sezze Monte Semprevisa > Sezze Monte Semprevisa > Norma Monte Semprevisa > Roccagorga Monte Semprevisa > Roccagorga Monte Semprevisa > Sezze Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Bassiano Monte Semprevisa > Montelanico Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Monte Semprevisa > Carpineto Romano Pre-Lepini > Bassiano Pre-Lepini > Priverno Monte Malaina > Carpineto Romano Monte Malaina > Gorga Monte Malaina > Gorga Monte Malaina > Supino Monte Malaina > Carpineto Romano Monte Malaina > Carpineto Romano Monte Malaina > Gorga Monte Malaina > Morolo Monte Malaina > Morolo Monte Malaina > Supino Monte Malaina > Gorga Monte Malaina > Gorga Monte Malaina > Sgurgola Monte Malaina > Sgurgola Monte Gemma > Patrica Monte Gemma > Maenza Monte Gemma > Supino Monte Gemma > Supino Monte Gemma > Carpineto Romano Monte Gemma > Maenza Monte Gemma > Supino Monte Gemma > Patrica Monte Gemma > Supino Monte Gemma > Maenza Monte Gemma > Maenza Sottogruppo del Siserno > Ceccano Sottogruppo del Siserno > Villa S. Stefano Monte Circeo > Quarto Freddo Monte Circeo > Quarto Temperato Monte Circeo > Quarto Comunale Monte Circeo > Quarto Caldo Monte Circeo > Quarto Caldo Monte Circeo > Intero Promontorio Isole Ponziane > Isola di Zannone
700 736 701 702 703 704 705 706 731 732 728 707 708 708b 709 710 711 712 714
713 715 716
717-735 717 718 719 729 720 721 734 735 726+730+730a+723 722+723+725 722 723 724 725 730a 726 727 730 733 751+755 750a 750b 754 750+751+754
RECOMMENDED PERIOD EE E E E EE E EE E E EE E T T E E E E EE E EE EE EE EE EE PD E EE EE EE EE EE E E EE EE E E EE EE E E EE E EE EE EE EE EE EE E E EE EE EE E EE E E E E T EE EE E T EE EE
3374m 328m 490m 110m 899m 537m 944m 790m 652m 993m 618m 420m 142m 650m 667m 695m 668m 736m 955m 1107m 995m 1389m 1055m 943m 781m 797m 979m 1109m 160m 292m 791m 355m 369m 590m 679m 585m 377m 787m 941m 486m 904m 1000m 369m 827m 471m 565m 886m 1160m 1190m 402m 401m 779m 732m 1111m 590m 765m 405m 378m 576m 378m 204m 503m 232m 200m 371m 677m 227m
60,44km 5,41 9.05km 2,18km 7,06km 3,96km 7,48km 6,06km 6,36km 7,19km 11,94km 3,92km 1,04km 4,91km 4,84km 6,62km 4,12km 4,69km 6,21km 9,51km 6,79km 11,05km 6,40km 17,44km 2,29km 6,94km 9,32km 11,23km 1,30km 6,5km 18,06km 6,82km 5,71km 10,36km 13,48km 6,72km 2,55km 5,36km 5,50km 6,93km 5,86km 7,99km 5,35km 16,22km 4,41km 7,08km 7,91km 10,70km 13,59km 4,04km 2,43km 7,27km 2,40km 5,91km 3,38km 6,56km 7,49km 3,95km 8,02km 5,17km 5,21km 2,03km 3,62km 1,02km 3,09km 12,37km 3,91km
4 gg 2h 3h 1.15h 3.30h 2h 3h 2h 2.30h 3.30h 4.30h 2h 0.45h 3h 2.30h 3.30h 2.30h 3h 3h 3h 3h 5h 3.30h 8.30h 2.30h 2.30h 4h 4h 1h 3.30h 7h 2h 2.30h 5h 5h 2.30h 1.30h 2.30h 3h 3h 2.30h 4h 2.30h 6h 2.30h 3.30h 4h 5h 6h 2h 1.30h 3.30h 2h 3.30h 2h 2.30h 2.30h 2h 3.30h 2h 1,15h 1.30h 2h 1h 1.30h 5.30h 1.30h
yes yes yes no no no no yes no no no yes no no yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes no yes yes no no yes yes yes yes yes no yes yes yes yes yes yes yes no yes yes yes yes no yes yes yes yes yes no yes no no no no no no no no
yes no no yes yes yes no no no no yes no no no no no no yes yes yes no no yes yes no yes yes yes no no yes no no no yes yes yes no no yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes no no yes yes yes yes no no no no no no no no no
white red paint and sections without signs none green paint white-red paint white-red paint and red marks white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint via crucis white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint none, apart from the last section with paint absent and in some sections white-red paint absent white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint red paint red paint white-red paint, red marks and sections without signs absent none absent, only a section of white-red paint absent and in a few sections white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint (rare and faded) white-red paint white-red paint white red and red yellow paint white-red paint and sections without red and white paint none and white-red paint red paint none and a few sections with red and white paint white-red paint white-red and absent in a section white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint (rare and faded) white-red paint white-red paint (rare and faded) white-red paint white-red paint (rare and faded) white-red paint vernice bianco-rossa e bolli rossi white-red and sections without signs none white-red and yellow-red paint white-red paint white-red paint white-red paint dirt road white-red and yellow-red paint white-red paint
oct-dec/mar-may november-april november-april september-may october-may all year round september-june october-may september-june september-june all year round october-may october-may october-may all year round september-june september-june october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may september-june october-may october-april october-may october-may october-may november-april november-april october-may all year round all year round september-june october-may september-june all year round september-june september-june september-june all year round all year round november-april october-may september-may september-june september-june all year round october-april september-may october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may october-may november-april september-may october-april september-may october-april november-marzo october-april june-september
35
1
Monti Lepini > Western and Eastern
TRANSLEPINI – CIMA NARDI 1537m
Alta Via circuit (partly CAI nr. 700) ÙÙÙÙÙ beauty
EE
difficulties
3374m
total vertical height gain
60,44 km total length
4 gg
duration time
various water sources
various mountain huts or bivouacs
white and red painted flags with some sections without sign posting trail signposts
Introduction. The following itinerary described, is not the classic Alta Via (from Segni to Morolo), but a large loop which, following the original Alta via, makes it possible to cross the main ridge of the Lepini mountains entirely without having to use two cars, or hitch a ride to get back to the starting point. Not only, in this way, the Alta Via, can start (and therefore finish) from any point of the circuit at your choosing. For convenience I recommend to set off and arrive at Cona di Selvapiana (Carpineto Romano), easily covering it in 4 days, as described here. Further more it is not of vital importance to bring a tent since, for those who need to, with a bit of organization it is possible to stay overnight in one of the numerous mountain huts present along the itinerary. Obviously everyone can plan the trip to their liking starting and sleeping where it suits. This trek, if carried out during the right period, makes it possible to find water springs and fountains on each stage of the walk, this though does not mean one should not bring water (especially when staying over in a mountain hut, where usually there are no water sources in the vicinity). For the more “hard core” hikers, there is the possibility of extending this traverse and making it even more complete by covering itinerary 705 which from Rocca Massima, follows the entire ridge until it joins up with the classic Alta Via on the top of Lupone. After following all the Translepini to Acqua del Carpino, you can even opt to add Gemma and Cacume. Broadly speaking: you follow the itinerary 724 for Casale Scarana, traverse Canavine, pass then towards San Luca, Colle Calvello, Fosso di Monteacuto, Rifugi Pizzacchio and Marione (where it is best to sleep overnight, adding one night), Colle Trevi, M. Gemma, M. Salerio, finally joining up with M. Malaina along the classic Alta Via. 1532 m 1400 m
1000 m
Feb
Dec
Jan
1200 m
Nov
Mar Apr
Oct
May
36
Jul
Jun
Aug
Sep
800 m
600 m
400 m 234 m
0 km
10
20
30
40
50
60,553
WAY POINT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
continue along the lane towards north-west turn right water from Carpino cima Malaina turn left Pisciarello water spring Continue straight on rifugi Piani Lontro cima Sprone Maraoni cima m. Ermo rifugio Capanna Martorelli cima m. Filaro turn left rifugio S. Maria
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27
turn left capanna de Francisco rifugio Valle Forana turn left towards south-southwest keep to the right Lake. Continue to the left turn left turn left junction end of asphalt, turn left colle Furcola, keep to the right keep to the right (natural gas control unit) crossing fosso dell’Obeca Sports centre. Head onto the state road towards Carpineto
keep to the right turn right keep to the left monte della Croce turn left turn left rifugio Stazzo Canali rifugio La Cesa dei Lepini turn left turn right keep to the left cima M. Lupone turn left turn left turn right rifugio Jo Volubro
28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43
44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56
turn left M. Perentile continue straight towards south east Rapiglio Water spring rifugio Gruppo Ippico Capreo Capreo cross Saddle continue along the ridge east-south-east Semprevisa peak Sambuco water spring Turn left Acquicciola water spring Turn right Occhio di Bue bridge (fountain), turn right
A1
rifugio Stazzo Canali 34 rifugio La Cesa 35 36 dei Lepini 37 rifugio dell’Escursionista 38
39
33 32 878
monte della Croce
31
27
26
28 30 29
1378
M. Lupone
25
24 23
22 21
colle Furcola
capanna de Francisco
18 19 20
17 16 15 14 13 rifugio Valle Forana
Gorga
1230
rifugio Capanna Martorelli
1327 10
M. Ermo
40
CATENA ORIENTALE (Altopiano di Gorga)
SP609
41 42 43
12 11
rifugio S. Maria m. Filaro
6
rifugio Jo Volubro Sorgente la Grotticella 1023
44
45
Sorgente del Rapiglio
CA
NA
OC
M. Malaina 4
ponte Occhio di Bue 56 Croce di Capreo
2 1
55 CID
EN
Sprone Maraoni
8
1328
rifugi Piani Lontro
7 fonte Pisciarello
5
46 47 rifugio Gruppo Ippico Capreo 48 49
TE
1480
m. Perentile
9
TAL
50 E
1537
51
M. Semprevisa
54
3
acqua del Carpino
Cona di Selvapiana fonte dell'Acquicciola
52
fonte del Sambuco
53
SS7
37
1 Monti Lepini > Occidentali e Orientali Translepini – Cima Nardi 1537m, Alta Via circuit (in parte CAI n. 700)
38
Follow the Translepini described here, and after staying overnight at Campo di Segni, you finish the circuit following the ridge of Punta della Melazza. Recommended starting point. By following the SS609 road which from Maenza climbs up to Carpineto, approx. 200 m after going over the saddle of Cona di Selva Piana, to the right a little road branches off (park near it). Itinerary 1st day. From the car park (1) take the white road [n° 719] which you follow after a first junction on the right (2), until you reach after a few kilometres Fonte Acqua del Carpino (913m) (3), where it is a good idea to stock up on a supply of fresh water, since the next and last water source of this stage (Pisciarello) is still very distant and
often does not have enough water. You then continue to the right of the water fountain and with hair pin bends you climb the wooded side of the mountain. Once the steep section of the path is over continue on the flat and reach a little valley, head up it (N) reaching a terracing below a plateau. Follow an evident path which runs along the meadow passing near stone walls and shortly head up the stony ridge. Climb over the small saddle on the west of Cima Caprarella and turning left you cross a bare plateau (Lestra Gigante). Once the plateau ends, turn right, pass below an enormous tree (monumental Turkey oak), then to the left until you reach a saddle (1185m). Shortly climb up the steep stony ridge on the right to then continue along the flat, half way across the slope. Now the path moves over to the left and enters a narrow and short valley which leads into the woods. Go past some little
Giovanni’s mules near Fosso dell’Obeca (© Funaro)
openings, and pass near some dolines (inside the woods), until you pop out onto the southern ridge of Malaina. Follow a short section on the edge of the woods, then come off onto the ridge and go around two rocky summits (from the left path 729 arrives from Carpineto), the last steep stony section is tackled and leads to the peak (1480m) (4). From the peak continue [n° 717] towards North-East until you reach passo Pratiglio (1395m) where, on the left (5), the
path from Gorga runs up. Follow it in a northerly direction [n° 717] through the thick beechwood (watch out for the marks) followed shortly after by a wide plateau. Once past Fonte del Pisciarello at an altitude of 1312m (6) (before reaching the old drinking trough there are two barrels, the one with the most water is on the right, following the itinerary’s hiking direction) you will find another plateau with a characteristic stone fence (1284m), where the route 717 turns left The small village of Gavignano seen from colle Furcola (© Funaro)
39
20
Monte Semprevisa > Sezze
M. SEMPREVISA – CIMA NARDI 1537 m,
i Querciai (CAI n. 711) ÙÙÙÙÙ beauty
EE
difficulties
1107m
total vertical height gain
9,51 km total length
3h - 2.30h duration time
Jo Capucciglio water source water sources
rifugio Liberamonte mountain huts or bivouacs
flags of white-red paint trail signposts
Introduction. Solitary itinerary which, with a nice track, crosses one of the most preserved century old holm oak woods, and its only monotonous section is the long forestry road which you follow along the first section. It also allows to visit the attractive Fonte Jo Capucciglio and the rifugio Liberamonte. It can be considered a wilder alternative to the classic 710, at least for the first half of the itinerary. Starting point. Following the road Sezze-Roccagorga, at the roundabout in Suso, take the road for Via Melogrosso, pass near the stadium and continue for Via la Foresta. Once you reach a junction turn left and continue until the asphalt road ends (La Longara). Here, at the junction, it is best to park. Itinerary. Start off by following the road on the right almost flat, until the first junction (1) where you turn left. Continue, without the possibility of error, following the forestry road until you arrive near the saddle between M.Forcino to the west and M.Fulcino to the east where you follow the marked path to the right (2). Shortly after you find the road again and follow it again (3) until you leave it level with a sharp turn to the right, where you continue to the left (4). Once you reach a vast opening (I Querciai), the path turns gradually to the left entering the woods of holly oak trees (5) and continuing half way across the slope with an easy path until they reach the Fonte Jo Capucciglio (6) at the head of the valley Ota. Continue half way across the slope until you reach a large water spring (Acqua glio Ceraso) (7) where you shortly reach the road Bassiano-Camporosello. From here, instead of continuing along the dirt road, you start directly on the right hand but-
13
1532 m 1400 m
12
1000 m
Feb
Dec
Jan
1200 m
Nov
5
Mar 800 m
May
138
Jul
Jun
Aug
Sep
7
9
10
11
4 3
2
Apr
Oct
6
8
600 m
1 424 m 0 km
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9,5
WAY POINT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
1477 M. Caprea
1261 M. Belvedere
1447 M. Ardicara
12
Sella (Schiazza Paolone)
cresta ovest
13
11
8
Fo
sso
Ang S.
1537
M. Semprevisa
10 rifugio Liberamonte C a m p o r o s e l l o 9 7 Fonte glio Ceraso 1427 M. la Croce
6 Fonte jo Capucciglio
elo
Turn left Take the path to the right Keep to the right Turn left Turn left Jo Capucciglio water source Rapiglio Ceraso water source Turn right Turn right Rifugio Liberamonte Continue along the path Turn right M. Semprevisa
5 I Querciai 1342 M. Erdigheta
4 Va
lle
Ota
3 833 2 M. Forcino
valle
3 po zzi
Valle
Nafo rte 694 M. Rotondilio
734 M. Fulcino
1
Longara
Sezze
139
20 Monte Semprevisa Sezze - M. Semprevisa – cima Nardi 1537 m, i Querciai (CAI nr. 711)
tress (8) which climbs up directly until you pop out onto the road again (9) not far from rifugio Liberanonte (10). Now continue along the path 710 until the summit (13). Return variant. For experts it is highly recommended to descend along CAI path 712, thus completing a spectacular circuit.
In the Querciai area (© Funaro)
140
141
Southern side of Semprevisa seen from Longara (© Funaro)
142
143
48
Monte Gemma > Patrica
MONTE GEMMA 1474 m,
The path of the south eastern ridges (CAI n. 26+730+730a+723) ÙÙÙÙÙ beauty
EE
difficulties
1160m
total vertical height gain
10,70 km total length
5h - 4h duration time
Rava water fountain, Savino and S.Serena water fountain water sources
capanna Maguccio mountain huts or bivouacs
flags of white-red paint trail signposts
Introduction. This beautiful traverse is characterised for the most part of the itinerary by a wonderful hike across the ridge line which from monte Cacume joins up with the summit of monte Gemma. More than a path itself, it is a link up of different CAI paths inaugurated on the 1st December of 2019, even arranging the new and efficient sign posting. This traverse, can be also carried out backwards, this results not as tiring because it has less vertical height gain. Starting point. From the town of Patrica head towards Supino going through a tunnel and parking just outside it. Itinerary. Take the steps which lead to the road above and following it to the right (South) lead to the start of the path. The track climbs up Colle lo Zompo passing by the western side and meeting the Fontana della Rava (1). Just after cross a small grassy plain and pass near Fontana Murata, beyond it you reach the junction where you take the path on the right (2) (if you want to climb up the summit of Cacume (3) you need to continue on the left). Proceeding across the slope among clearings and woods towards west, you reach a junction (4) near the water fountain of Savino (5) (the same just further south). Continue along a path on the right which by keeping near the ridge overcomes punta di Mastro Marco shortly reaching the junction with path 727 from the right (6) and straight after path 730 from the left (7). Straight along the ridge you walk over the panoramic Colle di Trevi (8). Now, with a logical and panoramic path (wonderful view of the east face of M.Gemma), you faithfully follow all of the ridge which shortly after goes towards east until it arrives at the meadow area of Sella Pennicali (9). From here, keep to the right, and continue along
11
1472 m
10
1400 m
Nov
9
1000 m
Feb
Dec
Jan
1200 m
2
Mar
8 4
6
1
800 m
7
Apr
Oct
May Jul
Jun
Aug
Sep
294
14
600 m
453 m
0 km
2
4
6
8
10,7
WAY POINT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
SP11
Rava water fountain Turn right (possibility of climbing up m. Cacume to the left) M. Cacume Savino water fountain Keep to the right Keep to the left Keep to the right Colle di Trevi Sella Pennicali, keep to the right Panoramic point M. Gemma Keep to the right A1 M. Salerio Turn right Santa Serena fountain Capanna Maguccio
1480 M. Malaina
16 fonte Santa Serena capanna Maguccio 15 1440 M. Salerio
14 13 12 11 10
1474 M. Gemma
9
8
964
colle di Trevi
7
lle la Va
6
1 fontana della Rava 5
fontana Savino 4
1111
3
2
1094
M. Cacume
ss
Vall
Fo
ed i
Mo
nte
ac
uto
M. Sentinella
o oM
nte acu
to
936 Colle Calvello
295
48 Monte Gemma Patrica - Monte Gemma 1474 m, Monte Gemma 1474 m, The path of the south eastern ridges (CAI nr. 26+730+730a+723)
296
the ridge towards west-north-west which after a forest of beech trees becomes rockier and sharper. Keeping always to the left of the ridge line, you reach, with a lot of hard work, the large cross of Gemma (10) and briefly reach the woody summit (11). At this point all you have to do is descend now, and keeping always near the slope you reach a little saddle with junction (12). Keep on the right [(on the left you can shortly reach the summit of monte Salerio (13) and, at the successive junction (14), turn right to go down a nice track along the steep north face of Gemma (woods of Tassetto). After various hair pin bends you find the asphalt road of Pian della Croce (Piana di Santa Serena) where the traverse ends. Nearby (towards left, west) at the end of the road, you find a water fountain S.Serena (15) and the characteristic rifugio Capanna Maguccio (16). From this point, spending the night in a tent
on the plains or at the mountain hut you could walk along the rest of the Alta via (possibility of shortening it by following path 734 which from the plains passes onto the east face of Semprevina joining the main path near the Rave la Monna) to the rifugio Santa Maria where it is worth continuing towards Sgurgola along the path for San Leonardo (Sgurgola Circuit descent). This way it is possible to complete a spectacular and difficult traverse which represents the Alta Via of the eastern Lepini mountains (AVLO).
The imposing east face of m.Gemma (© Reame)
The pinnacle of m.Gemma (© Funaro)
297
61
Monte Circeo > Quarto Freddo
QUARTO FREDDO M. CIRCEO,
Ancient via Severiana (CAI n. 751+755) ÙÙÙÙÙ beauty
T
difficulties
204m
total vertical height gain
5,21 km total length
1.15h - 1.15h duration time
none water sources
none mountain huts or bivouacs
flags of white-red and yellow-red paint trail signposts
Introduction. This is an old roman road which low down traverses all of Quarto Freddo (northern side) from Torre Paola all the way to the quarry under Peretto. In a few sections some remains from Roman times are still visible. Starting point. From Sabaudia or San Felice head towards the sea up to Torre Paola (southern extremity of the long Sabaudia beach) where you park the car. Itinerary. Take the little dirt road from path “751 dell’Uliveto” which heads into the wooded north face of the promontory passing first by the beginning of the panoramic path for cima del Picco (1) and after, the steep direttissima (unusable path since it has not been authorized by the Park Authorities). Here keep to the left and straight after to the right (2) walking along an olive grove. Almost always along the flat or slightly uphill, follow the road towards east passing near the 10 room ancient Villa and then near Grotta della Sibilla (ancient building). Continue for a long section along a nice path until you find yourself on an asphalt road which you cross (3) and, moving over a few metres to the left, you follow the path in the same direction (4). The mule track (Vecciaro path) continues across the slope until you are near the road which runs up to San Felice towards Le Crocette. Here (5,6) keep to the left walking along the road and continue along the path which starts to run down through the woods. You will find a junction where you keep to the left (7) and another one (8) where you can turn right to visit Guardia Orlando. Staying on the left you descend the ancient and characteristic steps, shortly reaching the bottom of
5
194 m
160 m
Mar
80 m
1 2
Apr
Oct
May Jun
Jul
Sep Aug
8
120 m
Nov
364
4
7
Feb
Dec
Jan
3
6
40 m
9m 1
2
3
4
5,2
WAY POINT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
AGRO PONTINO
Lago di Paola
1
l'Oliveto
2 Guardia Orlando
il Brecciaio
541 Picco di Circe
3
4
5
6
8 7
ut
a
448 M. Circello
le
Ca
d
Torre Moresca (ruderi)
le Crocette
Val
Torre Paola
Keep to the left Keep to the right Follow path Cross road Keep to the left Keep to the left Keep to the left Keep to the left (to the right for Guardia Orlando)
Porto
Punta Rossa
Torre Fico Torre Cervia
Faro
Mar Tirreno
365
61 Monte Circeo Quarto Freddo - Quarto freddo m. Circeo, Ancient via Severiana (CAI nr. 751+755)
the Promontory near the quarry of Mezzomonte where the path ends. Return variant. You can easily return to the car park following first of all via del Brecciaro and then via Torre Paola towards west.
Torre Paola and il Quarto freddo seen from the beach (© photo archive Circeo National Park)
366
367
67 Isole Ponziane Isola di Zannone - Monte Pellegrino 192 m, Zannone circuit
404
Watch out: when publishing this guide book docking at Varo was forbidden by PAI (Hydrological Association) for problems related to geological safety. Itinerary. The excursion starts with the docking in Caletta del Varo, from where the path with steps begins. This first section, situated on the southern side of the island, is characterized by typical Mediterranean bush with specimens of everlasting flowers, mastic trees, phyllirea, euphorbia, cistus and genistateae. The path goes up to the ex hunting house (currently not accessible) (1) nearby the remains of the Cistercian monastery (Monastery of Santo Spirito di Zannone) erected in 504 and abandoned 3 centuries after due to the continuous Saracen raids. From this area it is possible to observe some specimens of mouflons introduced for hunting purpose last century, even if it is easier to see the animal near the rocky coast. Continuing along the path on the left (2) you reach Monte Pellegrino (3), highest peak on the island, from where
it is possible to catch a glimpse of Ponza, Palmarola, Ventotene and Mount Circeo ( on clear sunny days, it is easy to see the imposing ridge of the Lepini mountains rise right behind the Promontory of Circe). From Monte Pellegrino you continue by heading into the woods of Cavone del Lauro towards Punta Lauro. The woods consist of large holly oak trees, strawberry trees and tree heather. From Punta del Lauro (4) follow the coast along Punta di Levante towards Scoglio del Monaco and near Punta di Levante head up towards the monastery going back through the typical vegetation of Mediterranean bush you met at the start of the itinerary. Now, downhill following the path taken on the way there, you return to Varo. (by Venusta Pietrocini) Variant. There is a variation of the path along the stretch between the Benedictine monastery and Monte Pellegrino which descends on the opposite side (north side) and enters the woods ending at the Capo Negro lighthouse from which you return by the same road. Podarcis siculus patrizii (© Pietrocini)
A young mouflon (© Pietrocini)
405
COLLECTING THE LEPINI 1000 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28
M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Semprevisa M. Semprevisa M. Semprevisa M. Lupone M. Lupone M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Gemma M. Semprevisa M. Lupone M. Gemma M. Lupone M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Lupone M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Malaina
Monte Grugliano 1003 m Cima Cerrogne 1013 m Monte Pietracquare 1016 m Monte Castellone 1020 m Monte Perentile 1023 m Perrone del Corvo 1036 m Monte Fosse 1048 m Monte Locino 1083 m Punta della Melazza 1084 m Cima Ruschi 1087 m Monte Cacume 1094 m Cima dell'Ouso 1098 m Punta dei Briganti 1100 m Monte Sentinella 1111 m Monte la Croce 1112 m Monte dei Briganti 1130 m Cima Caprarella 1139 m Monte Pilocco 1145 m Cima Carpino 1152 m Colle Rotondo 1163 m Monte Rinsaturo 1168 m Monte Puzzo 1170 m Monte Conca 1173 m Conco Merlo 1186 m Cima Vallecupa 1215 m Monte della Noce 1218 m Colle del Piccione 1219 m Cima Formale 1225 m
29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55
M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Lupone M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Lupone M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Malaina M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Gemma M. Semprevisa M. Gemma M. Semprevisa M. Malaina M. Semprevisa
Monte Rocca Canali 1227 m Monte Filaro 1230 m Monte Ardigheta 1248 m Monte Belvedere 1261 m Monte Favitozzo 1287 m Cima Piccolaro 1287 m Monte la Guardiola 1290 m Monte Pizzone 1316 m Monte la Monnetta 1323 m Rave la Monna 1325 m Monte Ermo 1327 m Sprone Maraoni 1328 m Monte Erdigheta 1342 m Monte Ciamutara 1354 m Colle Rave Insuglio 1372 m Monte Lupone 1378 m Monte San Marino 1387 m Monte Alto 1416 m Monte Pisciarello 1423 m Monte la Croce 1427 m Monte Semprevina 1430 m Monte Salerio 1440 m Monte Ardicara 1447 m Monte Gemma 1474 m Monte Caprea 1477 m Monte Malaina 1480 m M.te Semprevisa (cima Nardi) 1537 m
On the final ridge of Semprevisa (© Funaro)
410
BIBLIOGRAPHY AND WEBOGRAPHY Monti Lepini. 22 escursioni a piedi, 6 in MTB Stefano Milani Monti Lepini. Natura, storia, borghi, itinerari - Stefano Ardito Lepini. Anima selvaggia del Lazio – Luigi Corsetti Appennino centrale. Volume 1 – Carlo Landi Vittorj Monti Lepini. 29 itinerari per escursioni e trekking – APT di Latina Il Circeo. Nella leggenda e nella storia, III edizione – Tommaso Lanzuisi Circeo – il Parco Nazionale – natura, storia, itinerari guidati – Carlo Ravenna Villaggi di capanne nei Lepini – Vincenzo Padiglione Isole Pontine – Dario Giardi e Francesca Brocchetta In che senso… - Stefano Milani e Romana Marro Gaeta Circeo Leano Sperlonga Moneta – Fabrizio Antonioli, Riccardo Innocenti e Luigi Filocamo I Monti Lepini – Luigi Zaccheo Latium Vetus – Libero Middei Monti Lepini. Cartina ed. 2019 – Edizioni il Lupo Le storie della Semprevisa - Fausto Orsini Lepini, guida turistica - Compagnia dei Lepini e Comunità Montane Atlante della Biodiversità floristica dei Monti Lepini - R. Copiz. M. Iberite, F. Lucchese, G. Nicolella e B. Petriglia Atlante della Biodiversità faunistica dei Monti Lepini - Luigi Corsetti e Luigi Marozza Websites www.cailazio.it www.parcocirceo.it www.compagniadeilepini.it www.cesadeimontilepini.com www.parcolepini.it www.prolococirceo.it www.sabaudia.net www.fondazionemarcellozei.it www.circei.it
www.lepiniorientali.it www.home.caicolleferro.it www.zingarate.com www.gpsies.com www.provincia.latina.it www.ciaspolando.com Facebook pages and groups Lepinismo; Lepiniamo; Eremo di Sant’Erasmo; Rifugio Liberamonte; Appenninum; Scuola Paolo Consiglio; Lepini mountains tourism; Cai Lazio; Protezione Civile lupi dei Lepini; Cai sez. Colleferro; Cai sez. Latina; Gruppo alpinismo cai Latina; Cai sez. Frosinone; Gam Ceccano; Lepini-Gorga; Compagnia dei Lepini; I love monti lepini; Tra gli Ernici ed i Lepini; Monti Lepini; I monti Lepini; XIII comunità montana lepini; Gruppo ippico monti lepini Segni; Voler bene ai Lepini; Monti volsci-anima selvaggia del Lazio; Visit Lazio; Cesa dei monti Lepini; Escursioni tra i monti lepini; Si al parco dei Lepini; Rosa canina (associazione); La miangola; Monte Campazzano; Ilbastonedeilepini; Mountain Freedom; Gruppo ippico Capreo; Gli amici del cavallo; L’orchidea di Patrica; Escursioni a Priverno; Tutela altopiano di Collemezzo; Valle dell’Amaseno; La filibusta dei Lepini; Gruppo montagna Cori; Circeo be wild; Itinarrando; Soccorso alpino e speleologico del Lazio; Amici del Parco Nazionale del Circeo; Cammino Regina Camilla; Comitato via Francigena del sud; La castagna di Rocca Massima; Il carpino; Legende e misteri lepini; Grandi gesti; Ciociaria trekking; Camminatori romani; Circeo: l’incanto della Maga Circe, figlia del Sole.
411
Luigi Tassi
VERSANTE SUD beyond the path
MOUNTAINEERING GUIDEBOOKS Climbing | Trekking | Outdoor Sports www.versantesud.it