ESSENTIAL MACAU - APRIL / MAY 2017 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2017年 4-5月第 37期 No. 37 April - May 2017

英伦优雅 British elegance 高级鞋品牌鲁伯特·桑德森进驻澳门

爱彼 Audemars Piguet 皇家橡树霜金腕表全新推出 The newest Royal Oak Frosted Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50 Mainland China RMB 50

The arrival of Rupert Sanderson shoes

亚洲娱乐之都 The entertainment capital of Asia 发掘澳门泡吧圣地 Discovering Macau’s best bars

雅士度 PAULO A. AZEVEDO 总监 DIRECTOR

请坚持初衷

STAYING THE COURSE

仅在五年多一点的时间里，在马尼拉，在一个昔日是垃圾填埋场和兵营的位置，两间豪华度假村已然拔地而起。很快，占地 44公顷的第三家豪华度假村也将开始运营。与此同时，酒店和公寓楼，以及办公楼和商场也如雨后春笋般涌现。菲律宾的博彩监管及运营机构是 Pagcor，而这片区被命名为 Pagcor City娱乐城，与澳门竞争角力之意图昭然若揭。比之澳门，这里的赌场一样很有吸引力，餐厅也明显都是同等高水准。虽然奢侈购物中心规模较小，但也有可能找到一些同样的品牌。韩国赌客似乎比较喜欢这里，因为他们已开始表现出纷来沓至马尼拉之势，中国赌客则该是最后去的一拨人。菲律宾社会及政治动荡，是发展大规模豪华旅游业的主要障碍之一。澳门则算是运气不错——尽管澳门近几年（貌似）竭力阻止自己的发展，一味给投资者和豪华品牌制造麻烦——人们依然前往澳门特区博彩娱乐。本澳博彩业现已恢复按年增长，这还得归功于澳门生生不息的运气，仅此而已，而不是因为别的因素。我们希望政府停止出台那些窒碍澳门经济参与者发展的政策、计划，只须尽心完成城市基础设施建设，并支持旅游业的发展——游客只想花钱来买顶级的服务和享受：从美食到娱乐。毕竟，澳门博彩业部分自由化就是以此为目标的。我们可不能忽略这一点。

In little more than five years, where before there wasn’t more than a huge landfill and a barracks, two luxurious resorts have sprung up in Manila. Soon a third will be operational, towering over 44 hectares of land. While hotels and condominiums have multiplied, along with office towers and malls. This space, which was to be called Pagcor City - the gambling regulator and operator in the Philippines - is trying to compete with Macau. The casinos are equally attractive, the restaurants are sensibly of the same level. The corridors of luxury shops are smaller but it is possible to find some of the same luxury brands. Korean players seem to like it, as they are starting to show a greater tendency to go to Manila; with the Chinese bringing up the rear. The vicissitudes of society and politics in the Philippines are one of the major obstacles to the development of large-scale luxury tourism there. It is the luck of Macau - which in recent years has tried its best to prevent itself from developing by creating problems for investors and brands - that people still continue to bet on the MSAR. Now that gaming has started to grow, year-on-year, thanks to the cyclical movements of luck, nothing more, we hope that the government will stop investing in more schemes that will hamper the prosperity of its economic agents, and limit itself to completing the infrastructure and supporting tourism that seeks the best that money can buy: from food to entertainment. After all, it was with this aim in mind that the gaming sector was partially liberalised. We should not lose sight of that.

专题特写 FEATURES

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奢侈呈献 Luxury 澳门威尼斯人举行「亿万富翁展览」

THE BILLIONAIRE EXHIBITION AT THE VENETIAN MACAU

展览 Exhibition 美狮美高梅推出大型永久艺术收藏

MGM COTAI PRESENTS MAJOR PERMANENT ART COLLECTION

珠宝 Jewellery

德国珠宝品牌塔马拉· 科莫利的多彩宝石作品

THE COLOURFUL PRECIOUS STONES OF TAMARA COMOLLI

名表 Watches 爱彼皇家橡树系列再添新星

THE NEW ROYAL OAK BY AUDEMARS PIGUET

名车 Car 保时捷推出全新帕拉梅拉

PORSCHE PRESENTS THE NEW PANAMERA

游艇 Yachts

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意大利船厂丽娃发布两款新豪华游艇

THE TWO NEW PROJECTS FROM ITALIAN BUILDER RIVA

鞋履 Shoes

精华奢侈美妆品

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

BOTTERIE, THE ART OF CRAFTING BOOTS

时尚 Fashion

时尚 Fashion 悦乐时光

TIME AND HARMONY

动物与时尚

FASHION ANIMAL

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

Botterie，手工制鞋艺术

美妆 Beauty

潮流 Trends

鞋履 Shoes 高级鞋品牌鲁伯特·桑德森融意大利精工制作与英伦创新设计于一身

80年代怀旧风强势回归

RUPERT SANDERSON, ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP BRITISH DESIGN

THE MADNESS OF THE 1980S

AND INNOVATIVE

水疗 Spa 城中最佳水疗护理推介

THE BEST SPA TREATMENTS

酒吧 Bars 发掘澳门泡吧圣地

DISCOVERING MACAU’S BEST BARS

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名厨 Cuisines 誉珑轩主理名厨谭国锋创造完美春令餐单

THE PERFECT SPRING MENU BY CHEF TAM KWOK FUNG OF JADE DRAGON

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新闻速递 Hotel News 酒店业新闻集锦

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUND-UP

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购物 Shopping 澳门奢侈购物精华指南

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LUXURY SHOPPING IN MACAU 6 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 经理 Manager Vivi Roselim - essential@projectasiacorp.com

衬衣 SHIRT: 璞琪 EMILIO PUCCI 毛衣 SWEATER: 赛琳 CÉLINE 长裤、项链 TROUSERS AND NECKLACE: MALIPARMI 戒指 RING: 宝曼兰朵 POMELLATO 鞋 SHOES: 路易斯·奥诺弗雷 LUÍS ONOFRE

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso 广告营运部 Advertising sales

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 pub@essentialmacau.com Bina Gupta (香港 Hong Kong) (手机 cell phone) +852 2868 1555 binagupta@bg-bc.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Edwina Lau, Guilherme Marques, Michelle Jason 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

+853 2833 1258 合资企业

Essential LUXURY

The glittering façade of The Venetian Macao Resort Hotel

极致奢华的「亿万富翁展览」 Keeping Up With The Billionaire Exhibition 为全球富人提供奢华生活服务的高级会所 The Billionaire Concierge 将于澳門威尼斯人 - 度假村 - 酒店举办「亿万富翁展览」 High-end membership club The Billionaire Concierge showcases its luxury reach to members and newcomers alike at The Billionaire Exhibition at The Venetian Macau this month 文/by EDWINA LAU

10 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential LUXURY

Luxury property designed by Asetti

豪

华游艇、高定豪车、瑰丽珠宝、高级时装、体育巨星、好莱坞名流，这些闪耀夺目、纸醉金迷的电影场景，将于 2017 年 5 月 5－7 日在澳门威尼斯人度假村 -酒店真实呈现。来自英国的 The Billionaire Concierge 是世界顶级奢侈风尚生活管理及礼宾服务公司，为高净值的富人会员提供独一无二的个人化奢华生活服务。该公司拥有积极主动的专业团队，提供予所有会员全天候的尊贵服务，包括订购各种奢华产品、豪华旅游计划、盛典 VIP 门票等等。此外，更有无与伦比的全球上流社会关系网，集聚志趣一致的精英人士，让您尽享种种事业上的助力。作为东方的拉斯维加斯，澳门璀璨迷人，拥有众

Lectron showcases the only BMW Car Transfomer in the world

Ocean Aeronautics's multiple concept boat-Oceanair 64

多让人目眩神怡的奢华度假村、餐厅、娱乐场所，因而成为举办亿富翁展览的最佳场地。此次为期三天的尊尚展览，将有超过 200 个参展商在场展示最顶尖的游艇、豪车、私人飞机、乐器、时装、马术产品、运动器材、保健品、高科技产品以及出色的商务服务项目。展出的一系列令人惊叹的奢侈珍品包括：Asetti 的设计品（Asetti 是打造电影《007》主角邦德的家的设计师）；宝马跑车变形机器人的 Lectron 变形金刚 — — 这个天下唯一的独特作品可按 1：1 比例变形，且性能全面，技术数据出色；此外还有著名画家蔡树荣创作的美丽抽象画，蔡先生的现代画作融入了传统水墨画的诗意和清丽、优雅，从而闻名遐迩。 쐽

Abstract oil painting by Choi Su Weng

igh-end yachts, bespoke cars, stunning jewellery, haute couture, Sports Hall of Famers, and Hollywood elites; this fine spectacle is not a scene from the movie The Great Gatsby, it is the reality of The Billionaire Exhibition in Macau, which takes place from 5-7 May 2017 at The Venetian Macao Hotel Resort. The Billionaire Concierge is a global luxury concierge and lifestyle management company that provides one-of-kind personalised services to its high-net-worth members. Its professional and pro-active team is available 24/7 for all and any member requests, including sourcing exclusive products, luxury travel planning, procuring VIP tickets to exclusive events and more. Moreover, members enjoy the unparalleled benefits of belonging to an elite global network of likeminded individuals. Dubbed as the Las Vegas of East, glamorous Macau, with its dazzling luxury resorts, spas, restaurants and entertainment offerings, is the perfect setting for this year’s The Billionaire Exhibition. The three-day, prestigious event features over 200 exhibitors showcasing the best in yachts, cars, jets, musical instruments, fashion, equestrian, sports, healthcare, technology, and executive services. Visitors will be thrilled by the astonishing range of luxury products on display including designs from Asetti – the luxury home designers behind the James Bond House; the BMW Car “transformers” from Lectron – a one-of-a-kind speciality featuring a full performance conversion in a one to one scale with excellent technical data; and beautiful abstract oil paintings by master artist Choi Su Weng – renowned for infusing traditional Chinese ink poetic charm and picturesque grace into his creations. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 11

Essential ART

艺术盛宴 A Feast of Art 连接东方与西方，融汇传统与创新，美高梅路氹项目带来 3 00 件艺术杰作，创造无可比拟的卓越收藏 Connecting East with West and blending tradition with innovation, an unparalleled art collection featuring 300 masterpieces is unveiled at MGM Cotai 文/by EDWINA LAU

Artist Xue Song in Macau

澳

门，是一个多元化的城市，其独特历史深受东方与西方文化的共同影响。作为澳门文化艺术推手，美高梅一直不遗余力培养公众对艺术的欣赏和认识。 2017 年，澳门美高梅将在其全新的奢华渡假村美狮美高梅带来大型永久艺术收藏，联系东西古今，融合传统和创意，囊括超过 300 件引人入胜、激动人心的顶级艺术珍品。众多亮点，待宾客一一发掘。从绘画到雕塑，从壁画到古董地毯，宾客在探索其背后的故事时，将恍如走过历史一样，获得非一般的感受和体验，而每件作品的媒材、灵感乃至具体的摆放位置，均经过精心挑选和策划。 12 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

美高梅中国控股有限公司联席董事长及执行董事何超琼女士表示：“通过这个收藏系列，美高梅锐意在澳门打造独一无二的文化体验，推广文化旅游——有见及此，整个收藏的每个细节均一丝不苟，力求为本地和海外宾客带来惊喜。凭借美高梅在文化娱乐事业的深厚地位，以及对澳门丰富历史的尊重，我们很荣幸能藉这批艺术杰作，连结中国及亚洲的文化传统，同时将澳门及中国的创意带到世界，为两地作出贡献。”

主席典藏

“主席典藏 ”由香港著名文化企业家及独立策展人许剑龙先生策展，囊括 25 件著名

acau is a diverse city that has a special history deeply influenced by both Eastern and Western cultures. MGM Macau is a pioneer in bringing arts and culture to the local community and is committed to cultivating the appreciation of art in Macau. In 2017, MGM Macau will host a Major Permanent Art Collection at its brand new luxury resort MGM Cotai, featuring over 300 captivating and thought-provoking works, which connect East and West and blend tradition with innovation. Countless highlights are waiting to be explored. From paintings to installations, wall

Dragon of Heaven 现当代亚洲艺术家之作。本收藏的大部分艺术品植根东方美学之余同时受西方文化所影响，散发当代气息。 “以艺术连系世界”为“主席典藏”的主题并贯穿所有藏品。本收藏并置呈现东方及西方特色，以及传统与创新精神，带来包括萧勤、刘丹、刘国松、林国成、薛松、夏小万和郑路

art to ancient carpets, visitors will travel through time as they walk through the property, captivated by sensory experiences as they explore the stories behind each work of art. The medium, the inspiration, and the precise location of each art piece is being carefully planned and meticulously put together.

Ms. Pansy Ho, Co-Chairperson and Executive Director of MGM China Holdings Limited says: “With this collection, we are creating something truly unique for Macau to develop the city’s cultural tourism, and we have carefully considered every detail in order to create a cultural experience that is surprising, striking and fun for 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 13

Essential ART

等一众艺术大师的杰作——他们当中许多均是在海外发展事业的华人艺术家。许剑龙先生表示：“从一开始，美高梅和我对这个艺术收藏项目便拥有共同的愿景，使我有机会结集一系列连接东西古今的出众艺术作品。能够搜罗众多享负盛名的亚洲艺术家之作，以及委托他们特别创作，实在是我的荣幸。我希望这个收藏能启发澳门居民和来自世界各地的旅客，在东方语境中理解当代艺术的美，并以自己的方式去解读和响应每件作品。” 本收藏的亮点为中国抽象画家萧勤的布面压克力作品《光之跃动 2016》。这件阔 9 米、高 1.6 米的作品是萧勤艺术生涯迄今为止所绘画过的最大型画作。此外，薛松的大尺幅拼贴作品《澳门八景》由薛松特别为 “美狮美高梅艺术收藏”创作，既捕捉了澳门的自然美态，又反映了本地生活方式。

清朝御制地毯

“美狮美高梅艺术收藏 ”的领衔藏品为首次亮相亚洲的 28 张来自 18 和 19 世纪的中国御制地毯，绝对令人叹为观止。这批罕有和珍贵的地毯曾经在清朝（1644 年至 1911 年）作为北京紫禁城的装饰，极具装饰性及象征性之余，更蕴藏丰富的历史文化意义。美高梅收藏的御制地毯结合丝绸、金、银和铜，体现出大师级的超卓工艺。这些非凡珍品不仅是装饰，更是皇权表达其世界观的重要途径。其中一件亮点藏品为清乾隆御制龙纹地毯《天龙图》（1736 年至 1795 年），绝对是一件不可多得的皇家珍品。地毯为宁寿宫而制，当中的龙、花朵和云三种象征宁静与长寿的图案完美平衡。当时的皇帝以天地协调者的身份自居，致力维持社会和谐，这思想正正在该三种设计元素的平衡感中获得体现。美高梅中国控股有限公司艺术及文化事务总监郭蕙心小姐表示：“美高梅一直致力推广文化艺术至社会各个阶层。透过展出这批御制地毯，我们诚邀宾客踏上一趟时光之旅，欣赏多个世纪前的艺术创作和卓越工艺，从而对这个中国历史和文化的重要时期加深了解。这些珍贵的中国艺术品现在以澳门为家，结合本地的丰富文化历史，定能加强澳门作为重视艺术文化的国际大都会地位。”

特别委托创作

“美狮美高梅艺术收藏 ”亦囊括特别委托创作的大型艺术作品，与新酒店的室内设计互相映衬。当中由备受尊崇的本地书法家吴仕明所作的大型书法，将与御制地毯一同讲述紫禁城的故事。置于美狮美高梅贵宾大堂的则是一件无比精致的珠宝艺术作品——施华洛世奇水晶吊灯。水晶吊灯由来自英国 Studio Tord Boontje 的 Tord Boontje 监督制作，他擅长在当代设计中渗透浪漫主义风格。这件悬挂在圆拱形天花上的作品，定必令所有莅临宾客为之惊叹。 쐽

14 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

The Composition of Distance No.18

Essential ART

Artist Hsiao Chin Working in Studio

our guests and local visitors to enjoy. We recognise the rich history of Macau, and we are very proud to build on our own legacy in artistry and entertainment, while linking both traits to the affluent heritage of China and Asia, to bring creative interpretations of Macau and China to the world through these inspiring artworks.”

THE CHAIRMAN’S COLLECTION Curated by Mr. Calvin Hui, an acclaimed cultural entrepreneur and artistic director in Hong Kong, the Chairman’s Collection is comprised of 25 artworks by celebrated modern and contemporary Asian artists, many of which are rooted in oriental aesthetics with a contemporary touch and influence from the West. With the theme “A World Linked Through Art”, The Chairman’s Collection is starred with artists Hsiao Chin, Liu Dan, Liu Kuosung, Lin Guocheng, Xue Song, Xia Xiaowan and Zheng Lu, Chinese artists who developed their careers overseas, showcasing their masterpieces that juxtapose East and West as well as tradition and innovation. Mr. Hui says: “MGM and I have shared a vision for The Chairman’s Collection from the start, and it’s enabled me to curate a series of beautiful pieces that connect East and West, tradition and innovation, seamlessly. To procure and commission so many high-profile pieces from some of Asia’s most talented and renowned artists is a rare privilege. I hope the collection inspires people from Macau and around the world to understand the beauty of contemporary

art, within an oriental context, and interpret and respond to each of the pieces in their own personal and unique way.” Not to be missed is the Chinese abstract artist Hsiao Chin’s acrylic-on-canvas Dancing Light 2016. Measuring 9m (W) x 1.6m (H), this is the largest painting ever created in the artist’s oeuvre; as well as the Xue Song’s large-scale collage Eight Views of Macau, which is specially created for the MGM Cotai Art Collection and reveals the beauty of Macau’s nature and lifestyle.

IMPERIAL CARPETS FROM THE QING DYNASTY One of the most important highlights is a collection of 28 Chinese imperial carpets from the 18th and 19th centuries sure to capture the imagination of onlookers. Having once adorned the Forbidden City in Beijing during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), these rare and precious carpets were both decorative and symbolic, possessing rich historical and cultural significance. The imperial carpets in MGM’s collection embody the remarkable craftsmanship of the masters combining silk, gold, silver and copper to craft such exceptional objects, not only served as decoration but more importantly as a means to express the imperial power’s underlying world-view. The Dragon of Heaven from the Qianlong period (1736-1795) of the Qing Dynasty, is a sumptuous royal treasure. This carpet is composed of dragons, flowers and clouds – elements

that represent tranquillity and longevity – placed in perfect balance, to convey a sense of harmony that connects with the role of the Emperor; to be the mediator between Earth and Heaven and to maintain a harmonious society under his rule. Ms. Cristina Kuok, Director of Arts and Culture Development, MGM China Holdings Limited, says, “At MGM, we strive to make art more accessible to the public. With this impeccable collection of imperial carpets, we invite visitors to travel through time visually and emotionally, to experience art created centuries ago and to appreciate the remarkable craftsmanship while understanding an important period of Chinese history and culture. The collection is a fitting tribute to Macau’s local heritage and culture, while also reinforcing Macau’s status as an international metropolis where worldrenowned artworks are valued.”

SPECIALLY COMMISSIONED WORKS Moreover, The MGM Cotai Art Collection also features large-scale, specially commissioned art pieces that blend perfectly with the property’s interior design. Highly respected local calligrapher Ung Si Meng displays his huge calligraphy art that tells stories of the Forbidden City. The VIP lobby is decorated with a fine jewel artwork – a stunning Swarovski chandelier. Directed by Tord Boontje of Studio Tord Boontje from the United Kingdom, who is known for his expression of romanticism in contemporary design, this spectacular crystal art hanging at the dome ceiling is set to dazzle and amaze visitors. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 15

顿悟时刻 Defining moments 国际影星罗伯特 · 德尼罗和麦考尔 · 隆巴蒂倾情演绎杰尼亚 2017 春夏广告大片 The actors Robert de Niro and McCaul Lombardi are the faces of the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2017 campaign 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

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Essential BRAND

he Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna recently presented its Spring/Summer 2007 campaign called “Defining Moments”, starring the actors Robert de Niro and McCaul Lombardi. Comprising a series of short films directed by Francesco Carrozzini, the campaign shows showbiz veteran De Niro and newcomer Lombardi interacting with each other, as well as the Zegna suits they chose to wear, thus sharing their Defining Moments. The discovery of common ground and mutual learning developed through free, true

and impassioned dialogue is at the heart of the brand’s new strategy, led by Alessandro Sartori. Carrozzini’s short films will be launched on the brand’s digital and social media platforms, along with the launch of the traditional print campaigns, which will feature De Niro, Lombardi and the new Ermenegildo Zegna collection for Spring/Summer 2017. The brand is already planning future conversations under the theme “Defining Moments”, in the hopes that it will contribute to enriching inquisitive minds. 쐽

意

大利奢华男装品牌杰尼亚（Ermenegildo Zegna）推出了 2017 春夏广告大片 “顿悟时刻（ ” Defining Moments），国际影星罗伯特·德尼罗（Robert de Niro）和麦考尔· 隆巴蒂（McCaul Lombardi）倾情出镜。广告片由一系列短片组成，在意大利时尚摄影师兼导演 Francesco Carrozzini 掌镜的影片中，老牌影星德尼罗和新生代隆巴蒂身着杰尼亚男装，热切互动，分享各自的“顿悟时刻”。在 Alessandro Sartori 的领导下，通过形式自由、情感真挚且充满激情的对话来发掘人与人之间的亲密纽带并促进相互学习，这是杰尼亚的全新品牌策略的核心所在。 Carrozzini 执导的短片将在品牌的数字和社交媒体平台上发布，传统的纸质印刷广告也将同时推出，德尼罗、隆巴蒂将携杰尼亚 2017 春夏全新系列出镜。杰尼亚已经开始策划以 “顿悟时刻 ”为主题的未来对话，希望进一步充实极具求知精神的绅士们的生活。 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 17

Essential JEWELLERY

恋上石头 It’s all about stones 今年踏入 25 周年的德国高级珠宝饰品品牌 Tamara Comolli，继续在珠宝界脱颖而出 As it reaches its 25th anniversary, the German brand Tamara Comolli Fine Jewelry Collection continues to set itself apart in the world of jewellery 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

她

修读的学位和她的未来职业几乎毫无关联。二十多年前，在慕尼黑大学修毕管理学后，她决定踏上一条完全不同的道路——进入珠宝的世界谋发展。今天，德国出生的珠宝设计师塔马拉·科莫利（Tamara Comolli）为自己能将激情演变为一个成功的品牌而感到高兴，这家位于巴伐利亚泰根塞镇（Tegernsee）的珠饰制造商以五颜六色的宝石作品而闻名。自小她便着迷于珠宝。法国和西班牙，特别是直布罗陀，这些她在童年和青少年期间旅行过的地方，不但给她以想象力，还让她深深迷上石头。“从童年开始，它们的闪烁色彩、形状和无穷尽的丰富多样性吸引了我，到现在这种迷恋几乎无药可救。一旦我 18 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

er degree did little or nothing to foretell what her professional future would be. Having graduated in Management at the University of Munich, she decided to follow a very different path – one in the world of jewellery – more than two decades ago. Today, Germanborn Tamara Comolli is happy to have turned her great passion into a successful brand. Colourful precious stones are the trademark of this jewellery house, based in the Bavarian town of Tegernsee. The world of jewellery began to captivate her as a child. France and Spain, and particularly Gibraltar, places where she travelled throughout her childhood and adolescence, fed her imagi-

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Essential JEWELLERY

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Essential JEWELLERY

发现一颗独特的石头，我别无选择，必须得把它纳入我的设计系列方罢休，”这位设计师透露。从事多年的顾问和营销工作后，她于 1992 年成立了自己的公司，从此全情投入自己钟爱的珠宝创作。她的目标是，设计出可以传达意义和有灵魂的 “不寻常 ”作品。“我想要一个随性、简单和多用途的灵动品牌，它能够创造个性化的风格。”就这样，高级珠宝饰品品牌 Tamara Comolli 诞生了，成为首个在产品中运用五颜六色的宝石的珠宝品牌。协调一致性和高品质是她作品的主要特征。每年，这位设计师都与自己的团队一起出访世界上最丰富多彩的目的地，如马达加斯加、印度、澳大利亚、中东和中国，以选择最好和最独特的天然宝石。多年来在她推出的无数系列中，有几件作品非常瞩目。塔玛拉决定将这些精品中的精品结集于 Color Stories（ “色彩故事”）系列再推出，入选 Color Stories 的作品都完美地反映了

品牌的精神，各有风格，引起了轰动。其中一个例子是来自 Candy Collection（ “糖果系列 ”）的 Mikado Flamenco 手镯，它已成为品牌最具代表性的作品之一。 “我希望珠宝在每个场合都显得有趣。我不想它吓人或单调（...）我希望我的珠宝传达快乐和幸福，希望我的客户也有同感！ “生产设施位于意大利，具体说在米兰这个黄金一向是传统珠宝的地区。所有其他工序都在德国总部进行。“除了意大利的出色制作工艺，从设计到焊接以及构造的所有其他工序都是由我们自己完成。一件珠宝的生产，牵涉到各个烦琐细致的生产阶段，所有工序都是手工制作。为了出品一件完美珠饰，我们实行两次质量控制程序，一次在德国，另一次在意大利。我们的珠饰是意大利精湛工艺和德国精准技术完美结合的成果。” 2004 年，品牌获得有珠宝界奥斯卡之称的戴比尔斯钻石国际奖（De Beers Diamonds

nation and instilled in her a special fascination with precious stones. “Their scintillating colours, shapes and endless diversity have captivated me since my childhood days, to the point where now it’s almost problematic. As soon as I discover a unique stone, I can only set it free in my collections,” reveals the designer. After some years working in consultancy and marketing, she established her own company in 1992, embracing her passion once and for all. The objective was to conceive “unusual” pieces that could convey a meaning and which had soul. “I wanted a brand that was casual, simple and versatile, and able to create an individual style.” And so, Tamara Comolli Fine Jewelry Collection was born, the first jewellery brand to introduce colourful precious stones in its pieces. Unity and quality are the main features of her pieces. Every year, the designer, together 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 21

Essential JEWELLERY

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Essential JEWELLERY

International Award）的设计大奖，这一成就为 Tamara Comolli 在全球带来了更高曝光率。四年后，Tamara Comolli 在美国纽约长岛汉普顿开设了第一家专卖店。今天，品牌旗下共有六家专卖店（美国汉普顿、棕榈滩；德国叙尔特岛、泰根塞、慕尼黑；西班牙马贝拉），其产品也由世界上最高级的珠宝商经销。为庆祝成立 25 周年，品牌最近推出了 2017 新系列，其产品的重要特征更形突出：永恒，实在，快乐，优雅，多功能，高贵。Greenery （绿）系列是今年的瞩目之作之一，带来了新的象征意义。 “处于社会和政治动荡中的数字时代，我们越来越倾向于匿名存在，现在时间走得越来越快，人们渴望平衡：重新生活、回到本真和自我改造”。正是在这个前提下，Tamara Comolli 选择了绿色来象征新的开始，从大自然及其有机体中汲取灵感来打造作品。除此之外，今年品牌也推出其他的系列或产品，包括 Cruise, Fuchsia, Mellow Yellow, Soft as Powder, Cashmere Meets Pastel，以及 It’s a Yes - Time to Shine。 쐽

with her team, travels to the most diverse destinations in the world, such as Madagascar, India, Australia, the Middle East and China, in order to select the best and most exclusive natural stones. Several pieces have stood out in the countless collections she has presented over the years. Tamara decided to christen them Color Stories, pieces that perfectly reflect the spirit of the brand and that create various sensations. An example of this is the Mikado Flamenco bracelets from the Candy Collection, which became one of the house’s most iconic pieces. “I want jewellery to be fun on every occasion. It can’t be intimidating or monotonous (...) I want my jewellery to convey joviality and happiness, and I hope my clients feel the same!”

The production facility is located in Italy, more specifically in Milan, in an area where gold is tradition. All the other stages take place at the headquarters in Germany. “Besides the excellent production in Italy, all the other steps, from the design to the welding and construction of the piece, are done by us. Producing a piece requires various stages of detailed production, all of them by hand. For a perfect finish, we have two quality controls, one in Germany and the other in Italy. Our jewellery is the result of that perfect symbiosis between the excellence of Italian production and German precision.” In 2004, the brand was distinguished in the Design category at the De Beers Diamonds - International Awards, an achievement that brought greater global exposure. Four years later, Tamara Comolli opened her first store in the Hamptons, in the US. Today, the house has a total of six boutiques (Hamptons, Palm Beach, Sylt, Tegernsee, Marbella and Munich) and is distributed across the world’s most exclusive jewellers. As it completes its 25th anniversary, the brand recently presented the new collection for 2017, which reinforces its key features: timelessness, actuality, joviality, elegance, versatility and exclusivity. The Greenery line is one of this year’s standout creations, adding new symbolism to the pieces. “At a time of social and political turbulence, in which the digital era takes us more and more towards anonymity and where time goes by even faster, people long for balance: re-living, restoring and renovating.” It was with this premise that Tamara Comolli chose green as a synonym of new beginnings, drawing inspiration from nature and its organic forms to construct her pieces. Besides this line, the brand also presents other ranges for this year: Cruise, Fuchsia, Mellow Yellow, Soft as Powder, Cashmere Meets Pastel and It’s a Yes - Time to Shine. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 23

Essential WATCHES

皇家橡树霜金腕表 Royal frost 爱彼(Audemars Piguet)皇家橡树女装腕表乃由女性设计师基于原始的皇家橡树男表改造，一上手腕，无论任何场合都是立刻引人瞩目的时计。适逢皇家橡树女装腕表系列诞生 40 周年志庆，珠宝设计师卡洛琳娜 · 布奇（Carolina Bucci）接受挑战，在原始表款的基础上赋予腕表崭新绚丽的新装，打造出皇家橡树霜金女装腕表，绽放惊喜光芒 Made for the gentleman but adopted by the ladies, the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet is an immediately recognisable timepiece in any circumstance. After celebrating the 40th anniversary of the women’s watch, the jewellery designer Carolina Bucci accepted the challenge of making it even more surprising 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

爱

彼(Audemars Piguet)皇家橡树腕表，气度恢弘的表壳搭配镶嵌八枚六角形螺丝的出色八角形表圈, 表盘上镌刻独特的 “gran tapisserie”格纹装饰，在制表美学方面拥有独特的创新地位。该款腕表于 1972 年由著名制表师杰洛·尊达（Gérald Genta）设计。这是一款具有坚固外观的运动腕表，适用于条件不佳的户外环境。尽管该款表极具阳刚风范，1976 年，爱彼布拉苏丝表厂决定将它演绎为女性腕表。当贾桂琳·蒂米耶（Jacqueline Dimier ）1975 年加入爱彼表的创作行列时，她便被委以重任，负责基于原始皇家橡树腕表的造型，为女性打造皇家橡树女表。那个时代，腕表设计界男性当道，贾桂琳·蒂米耶是寥寥可数的女设计师之一。她决定尽量不改变皇家橡树系列的原始造型，而是发挥其抢眼有力的造型特色，并为其豪迈帅气的比例进行调整，缩小尺寸，以获得较为轻盈柔和的线条。这样的整改设计获得成功，并使这款表成为爱彼最标志性的表款之一，也跻身无论男女腕表的制表典范。为庆祝皇家橡树女装腕表系列诞生 40 周年，爱彼邀请意大利佛罗伦斯设计师卡洛琳娜 ·布奇（Carolina Bucci）重新演绎该殿堂级表款，为它注入跟她设计的其他作品一样的独特不凡创意。无独有偶，她出生于 1976 年——即贾桂琳打造这款皇家橡树女表的那一年。卡洛琳娜以自己的名义为爱彼设计珠宝。她最擅长“佛罗伦斯技术”。此古老技术源自托斯卡尼首府佛罗伦斯，利用钻石尖头锤具来敲击黄金，在其表面形成细微的凹痕，透过光线的映射呈现薄霜一般的璀璨质感和钻石般晶亮辉彩。 24 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Carolina Bucci

Jacqueline Dimier

he Royal Oak model from Audemars Piguet, with its octagonal case with hexagonal screws around the bezel and the unique criss-cross pattern (gran tapisserie), holds its own innovative place in the aesthetics of watchmaking. The model was created in 1972 by the famous watchmaker Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet. It was a sports watch with a robust appearance, prepared to face the inhospitable outdoor world. Despite its markedly male aesthetic, in 1976, the Le Brassus manufacturer decided to adapt it to the female wrist. Having just arrived at the brand (1975), Jacqueline Dimier, at the time one of the few women designers in an essentially male world, was in charge of the challenge. Opting to modify the original as little as possible, Jacqueline achieved the desired femininity by simply reducing the measurements, giving it a lighter look while keeping the proportions and the strong character of the original. The result was a success and contributed towards making this model one of the brand’s most iconic and a watchmaking reference for both genders. To mark the 40th anniversary of the birth of the women’s Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet invited the Florentine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci to reinterpret the model with the originality that sets her work apart. Carolina, who curiously was born in the same year that Jacqueline created the Royal Oak for women, designs jewellery for the brand under her own name. Her main signature is the Florentine finish, an ancient technique that hails from the

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Essential WATCHES

爱彼和卡洛琳娜·布奇的合作，彰显品牌将珠宝工艺与制表技艺完美结合这一悠久传统。但是，爱彼工艺师们所面临的最大挑战在于，将此表面精修工艺在皇家橡树腕表的表壳与链带上完美呈现出来。这一任务较为复杂，因为腕表是个几何体，具有明显的边线，最重要的是，因着皇家橡树的永恒地位，作为市场上最尊崇的腕表，其质量不容有失。最终打造出来的皇家橡树霜金腕表符合卡洛琳娜 ·布奇的所有要求，她希望创作一件独特不凡的作品，从远处看便引人注目，而且不偏离原表款的设计美学，同时为腕表注入更多的女性柔情。爱彼宣称，新版皇家橡树霜金女表旨在向贾桂琳·蒂米耶的原作及其多年来数不胜数的男女腕表设计致敬，也庆贺品牌成立近 150 年来始终秉持的独立精神。皇家橡树霜金腕表发布于 2016 年底，在最近举行的日内瓦国际高级钟表展（SIHH ）上，它备受注目。这系列腕表的表壳及表链分别由 18k 玫瑰金材质与白金材质打造，共推出 33 毫米与 37 毫米两个尺寸。表盘承袭了皇家橡树经典的银色格纹装饰，小时、分钟、中央秒针和日期显示，搭配防眩光处理蓝宝石水晶玻璃表镜。表径 33 毫米的表款搭载 2713 石英机芯。而 37mm 的表款则是搭载 3120 自动上链机芯，动力储存 60 小时。既突破前作又忠于自己的 DNA，这款皇家橡树霜金腕表极致瞩目，它晶莹璀璨，美丽动人，绽放惊喜光芒。 쐽

Tuscan capital and which consists of hammering the gold with a diamond-tipped tool, endowing the surface with a beautiful sparkling effect. The collaboration, a continuation of Audemars Piguet’s long tradition of combining the two arts, watchmaking and jewellery, presented a demanding challenge for the craftsmen involved in the process of applying the technique to the case and bracelet of the Royal Oak. The task was relatively complicated considering the geometry of the watch, the pronounced edges and, above all, the timeless status that defines this model, one of the most prominent on the market whose quality could never be compromised.

The end result, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold, meets all the criteria set out by Carolina Bucci, which consisted of creating a piece that was distinct enough to draw attention from a distance and, without perverting the original codes, injecting an additional layer of femininity into this watch. According to Audemars Piguet, the timepiece aims to pay tribute to the creation of Jacqueline Dimier and to the work she did as a designer over the years, reflected in many models, for both men and women, as well as the independent spirit to which the house has been faithful over almost a century and a half of existence. Presented at the end of 2016, the Royal Oak was the centre of attention at the latest SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva. The model is available in two types of 18kt gold – white and rose – in the case and bracelet, and in two sized cases – 33mm and 37mm. The dial features the typical gran tapisserie motif, with hour, minute, centre seconds and date protected by glare-proofed sapphire crystal. In the 33mm model, the functional side is ensured by the quartz caliber 2713, while the Royal Oak Frosted 37mm holds the selfwinding caliber 3120, with a guaranteed minimum reserve of 60 hours. Conceived to make the difference but faithful to its DNA, the Royal Oak Frosted is immediately recognisable but still, indisputably, because of its own shine, sure to surprise. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 27

Essential CAR

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Essential CAR

又创辉煌 High times 保时捷帕拉梅拉第二代横空出世，以更丰富的技术细节、令人惊叹的卓越表现以及扣人心弦的绝妙设计，成为该系列顶级车型 The second edition of the Panamera has arrived to lead its segment, with more technology, mind-blowing performances and astounding design 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

保

时捷正在处于品牌历史上前所未有的辉煌时期，正如为 911 引入涡轮增压发动机，为 Boxter 和卡曼（Cayman）带来四缸发动机，以及这个德国品牌有史以来最顶级的车型 918 Spyder 一样 — — 每款新车型都完美体现了这家顶级车厂的卓越成就。在纯粹的跑车领域外，潮流依旧不变。 Macan 依旧是保时捷的热门车型，而现已迎来第三代的卡宴（Cayenne）则继续是运动多用途车型的标杆。正是在此潮流中，全新帕拉梅拉（Panamera）正在掀起新热潮，显示出这个位于斯图加特的车厂一直都有能力为世界带来惊喜。保时捷奢华轿车帕拉梅拉的第二代车型在每个层面都有真正突破。对于无论是设计更为传统的梅赛德斯 S 级轿车和宝马 7 系轿车，还是更偏向于跑车的玛莎拉蒂总裁（Quattroporte）和宾利飞驰（Flying Spur），全

orsche is going through a period of success unprecedented in its history, and each new model is a mirror of a constructor at the peak of its abilities. It was like that with the introduction of the turbo engines in the 911, with the Boxter and the Cayman’s move to four-cylinder motors and with the 918 Spyder, the German brand’s best car ever. Outside of the pure sports cars, the trend stays put. The Macan dominates the brand’s sales tables and the Cayenne, now approaching its third generation, continues to be the reference in its segment. And it’s in this context that the new Panamera is making waves, demonstrating that the ability to surprise is ever present over at Stuttgart. The second generation of Porsche’s luxury saloon brings with it a genuine revolution at 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 29

Essential CAR

新帕拉梅拉都为其他品牌的同类车款带来了重大挑战。第二代帕拉梅拉的外形吸引力大增，达到了第一代无法实现的外观与身量之完美平衡，至於机械及技术方面，其创新内涵又让其在芸芸众车中脱颖而出。车厢内部令人惊喜，采用了全新的保时捷先进驾驶舱（Advanced Cockpit）概念，不同屏幕展现平板电脑的功能，而体现高度科技整合性的控制面板则取代了车匙和传统的设备。对于科技爱好者而言，保时捷提供了丰富的自配选择，包括夜视设备、采用矩阵光束技术（84 像素）的 LED 主大灯、自适应巡航定速控制系统和全新空气悬挂系统，更有全景影象系统让您的驾驶舒适无忧。全新帕拉梅拉拥有若干版本，其中包括一个新的混合动力版和行政加长版，而即将于年底发布的旅行版亦势必将在豪华运动轿车领域再掀热潮。拥有三种动力版本的帕拉梅拉均采用了双涡轮直接喷射技术： Turbo 版本采用可达 550 马力的 V8 汽油发动机；4S 版本采用 440 马力的 V6 柴油发动机； 4S Diesel 版则采用了 422 马力的 V8 柴油发动机。所有车型均采用全轮驱动以及保时捷双离合器 8 速变速箱。《精华》杂志团队为此专程飞往瓦伦西亚亲身见证了保时捷四门轿车中最具运动精神的这款车型，面对极具吸引力、整体质量极为出众、并能带来真正独特驾驶体验的这个保时捷车款，我们无一不为全新帕拉梅拉深深折服。 쐽

every level and promises to be a true threat to all the other players in the segment, be it on the more conservative side (read: Mercedes S-Class and BMW 7 Series), or on the sportier side, featuring the likes of the Maserati Quattroporte and the Bentley Flying Spur. The new Panamera is much more attractive, with a balance of form and proportion that its predecessor never managed to achieve, while on the mechanical and technological side, it features innovative solutions that make it stand out from the rest. The cabin is fantastic and introduces the new Porsche Advanced Cockpit concept, with various screens replicating the function of a tablet and panels replacing the keys and traditional instruments. For tech-lovers, Porsche offers an endless range of options, including night vision, LED matrix headlights with 84 image points, semiautonomous driving function regulated by 30 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

sat-nav and a new pneumatic suspension with three cameras for supreme cruising comfort. The new Panamera unfolds in several variants, including a new hybrid version, a long wheelbrake model and, at the end of the year, a shooting brake to create a stir in the segment. There are three launch engines, equipped with twin-turbo direct injection technology: a petrol V8 with 550 horsepower for the Panamera Turbo, a diesel V6 delivering 440 horsepower for the Panamera 4S and a 422hp diesel V8 for the Panamera 4S Diesel. All feature permanent all-wheel drive and 8-speed PDK automatic transmission. Essential flew to Valencia to see the sportiest of all the four-door Porsches, and returned very impressed indeed with the new Panamera: a Porsche that has an extremely strong emotional appeal, impressive overall quality and which offers a driving experience that is truly one of a kind. 쐽

Essential CAR

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 31

Essential CAR

凯伦效应 The Callum effect 是时候让 Jaguar 捷豹迈进尊尚的 SUV 的市场烽烟中一争长短，而 F-Pace 正是该英国豪车品牌在这最佳时机出击的最佳车型 It was time for Jaguar to step into the battle of prestigious SUVs, and the F-Pace is the right car at the right time for the English brand 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

32 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential CAR

严

凯伦 (Ian Callum)是捷豹全球设计总监，是品牌的设计主脑。正是凯伦造就了捷豹在设计美学上的重生。在他 1999 年加入捷豹前，捷豹沉湎怀旧风的设计语言，加上当时拥有捷豹品牌的福特汽车的机械工程，两者几乎把汽车产业最标志性的品牌之一打入万劫不复之地。严凯伦加入后，捷豹在设计上开始转变，变革并持续至 2008 年印度塔塔汽车公司（Tata Motors ）购入捷豹后。随着新鲜热钱的注入，加之以新的创作自由度，由严凯伦领导的英国团队设计了决定性的车型例如 XF、全新的亦备受争议的 XJ，以及无与伦比的 F-Type。不久之前，捷豹 XE 使宝马 3 系头疼不已，现在，F-Pace 横空出世，势必令保时捷 Porsche Cayenne 和 Macan 还有其他德国豪车竞争者失色不少。 F-PACE 是一款跑车型 SUV，它具有美艳的设计，出色的动力性能，集捷豹跑车的特色于一体：坚固，迷人，快速，极大的驾驶乐趣，散发德国车所没有的神奇魅力——这得益于 F-PACE 的成功、丰富的车型选择及高销售量。无论如何，捷豹车依然与别不同，作为一款高端 SUV，F-PACE 当然比其他竞争车型更特别、更有型。 쐽

an Callum is Jaguar’s design guru. If anyone is responsible for the aesthetic rebirth of the English feline, it’s Callum. Before his arrival in 1999, Jaguar was immersed in a retro-influenced aesthetic language which, combined with the mechanics from Ford, which owned the marque at the time, was sinking one of the most symbolic names in the motoring industry. The transition began with Ian Callum and continued with the purchase of Jaguar by Tata Motors in 2008. With fresh money and creative freedom, the English, led by Callum, created defining models such as the XF, the new and controversial XJ and the magnificent F-Type. More recently, the XE caused a lot of headaches for the BMW 3 Series , and now it’s the F-Pace that promises to put the Porsche Cayenne and Macan and the rest of the German rivals in the shade. With a fabulous design and extraordinary dynamic, the F-Pace is everything a Jaguar should be: solid, attractive, fast, fun to drive and with that sprinkling of magic dust that the Germans lost, thanks to its success and huge proliferation of models and sales volume. A Jaguar is still a special car and in the highend SUV market, the F-Pace is far more special than any of the competition. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 33

美艳新艇 Sea wonders 意大利豪华游艇品牌丽娃（Riva）打造的最新项目兼具创新、优美设计和舒适等特征 Innovation, design and comfort in the latest projects from the Italian brand Riva 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

意

大利知名船厂丽娃（Riva）最近在欧洲最大型船艇展会之一 “杜塞尔多夫国际船艇及水上运动展览会”（BOOT Dusseldorf）上发布的全新丽娃 110’项目及 56’项目，势必为这个在 1842 年创立的游艇品牌的发展史揭开新一页。丽娃 110’和丽娃 56’由意大利设计 34 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

工作室（Officina Italiana Design）、战略产品委员会以及法拉帝集团工程部通力合作打造，旨在开创新一代豪华游艇。丽娃 110’将会成为品牌有史以来最大型的玻璃钢旗舰。它全长 34 米，船宽 7 米，其外观设计乃基于 100’ 海盗（Corsaro）的轮廓，塑造出动感线条。

这款超级游艇将于今年秋天正式推出，其巡航速度 23 节，极速可达 26 节。丽娃 56’则配备全新造型的船体，采用了优质材料且每个细节都极尽完美。此款新艇全长 17.27 米，已经在生产中，预计会于今年上半年推出。 쐽

Essential YACHT

ecently presented at Boot Düsseldorf in Germany, one of the biggest boat shows in Europe, the new projects from the Italian builder Riva promise to write a new chapter in the history of the brand, founded in 1842. The Riva 110’ and the Riva 56’ were born from the collaboration between Officina Italia Design, the Strategic Product Committee and Ferretti Group Engineering, with the aim of marking the beginning of a new generation of luxury yachts. The Riva 110’ will be the largest fibreglass model built by the brand to date, with a length of 34 metres and a full beam of 7 metres. The project follows the Riva Corsaro 100’, which inspired the creation of its sporty-style lines. With the official launch scheduled for the autumn, this superyacht will reach a top speed of 26 knots and a cruising speed of 23. As for the Riva 56’, it features a new shaped hull, combining quality materials and attention to detail. With a total length of 17.27 metres, the model is already in production stage and its launch date is expected in the first half of this year. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 35

Essential SHOES

足履生辉 The world at your feet 近年来，定制艺术再次兴起。这股风潮中具代表性的手工制鞋艺术 In recent years, the art of bespoke has been regaining ground. One of the biggest expressions of this movement is botterie, the art of crafting boots 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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观全球，一些工匠正在复兴或者说继续发扬一项古老的技艺：botterie—— 手工制鞋艺术。一度相当普及的这门技艺，如今却只在奢侈品领域和收藏家群体中摇曳生辉。奢侈品消费者会不惜一切代价追求尊尚独特，对不菲的价格并不在意；收藏家则会尽全力购得自己倾心的工艺卓绝的精美鞋履。 Bottiers 或者定制鞋履大师都有自己独特的风格，并且总是精益求精，他们会按照客户的脚形和要求纯手工完成制鞋的所有步骤。话虽如此，搞清楚按客户要求制作鞋子（customisation）和定制鞋（bespoke）两者间的区别还是非常重要的。前者是从已有的多种鞋型或量产尺寸中进行选择，后者则是为独一无二的脚形打造绝无仅有的鞋履。我们更不能把随便一款在生产线上完成制作的鞋子与手

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工精心打造的鞋履相提并论；又或者更不该把普通的修鞋匠同定制鞋大师同日而语。定制鞋大师都是实打实地用传统方法制作鞋子，并且手工完成每道工序。时下，由于人们的无知以及市侩商人的炒作——他们总是贪得无厌地操弄定制相关语汇和概念，其后大肆炒作——定制鞋制作对大众而言变得神秘莫测。本期《精华》杂志向您介绍当今世界最优秀的定制男鞋大师；虽不能把所有大师一一尽录，但以下介绍的都是其中一些最为人推崇的大师；也有一些虽无震撼声名，技艺却格外超群的非等闲之辈。如果您想要购买一双绝对匹配自己双脚的独一无二的鞋子，他们绝对值得考虑。世事无绝对，也许您下次旅行时就会定制一双呢！

hroughout the world, several craftsmen are reviving or giving continuity to an ancient craft – botterie –, once widespread but today confined essentially to two areas: the luxury segment, in which the consumer is in search of exclusivity at any cost and who can comfortably support the associated price tags, and the group of “connoisseurs”, who are happy to redefine priorities to be able to acquire pieces whose craftsmanship and beauty they truly appreciate. With their own unique styles, bottiers, or bespoke shoemakers, always take into account exquisite execution, with the various phases of the shoe construction undertaken by hand and according to the measurements and specifications of the client. However, it’s important not to confuse customisation, the act of choosing from various pre-defined options, or industrial measurement, with bespoke, which are one-ofa-kind shoes for one-of-a-kind feet. Nor can we compare picking up a shoe and completing a certain task on a production line with handcrafted work. Or think that a cobbler, who fixes shoes, is the same as a master bottier, a person who effectively makes shoes in a traditional manner and only with the help of manual tools. Nowadays these are very common myths, due in most part to ignorance or to the work of the marketeer, forever greedy in the appropriation of terms and concepts and their subsequent trivialisation. Here, Essential brings you a group of some of the best men’s bottiers today; a list that leaves out a lot of people but which attempts to gather some of the most consensual names, along with some lesser known ones but whose work is of exceptional quality. They all no doubt deserve to be considered, if our reader decides to order a unique pair of men’s shoes that’s absolutely worthy of their feet. Who knows, on your next trip, perhaps?

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 37

Essential SHOES

Stefano Bemer 梦想可成真 THE DREAM IS POSSIBLE Tommaso Melani

专业人士指出，一些意大利乃至全球最好的鞋子来自一间创立于 1983 年的著名鞋店 Stefano Bemer。但同名创始人 Stefano Bemer 已在 2012 年过世，享年仅 48 岁。 Stefano Bemer 被公认为是个恪尽职守的典范、天才以及鞋履定制艺术界的顶级大师，他在格雷韦伊恩基亚恩蒂（Greve, Chianti，意大利佛罗伦斯省的一个市镇）从最底层的修鞋匠做起，由此开启自己的制鞋生涯。“我透过一只鞋子上的破洞看到了自己的命运”，他在一次采访中表示，并解释道，他入行做制鞋师仅是因为他生活的地方没有修鞋匠。据说，当地一位贵族很赞赏他的工作热情和成果，有一天，向他展示了定制鞋之王 John Lobb 制作的一系列鞋子，Stefano Bemer 立刻对 John Lobb 佩服得五体投地。他坚信制鞋就是自己想要追求的事业，于是只身前往佛罗伦萨，向一位年长的制鞋大师学习这门让他着迷的技艺，并在 San Frediano 开设了自己的鞋店。 Stefano 的鞋店迅速蜚声业界，一方面是因为他制作的鞋子品质超群，另一个让人好奇的原因是英国演员丹尼尔 ·戴 -刘易斯（Daniel Day-Lewis）在名震好莱坞前曾在这里当过学徒。品牌的客户包括拉丁天王胡里奥· 伊格莱西亚斯（Julio Iglesias）、著名演员安迪· 加西亚（Andy Garcia）以及设计师奇安弗兰科· 费雷（Gianfranco Ferré）等，他们的名气也帮助品牌更受追捧。 Stefano 溘然而逝后，2013 年，品牌被另一个家族企业、专门手工打造女士手袋的著名品牌 Scuola del Cuoio 收购。在 Tommaso Melani 的领导下，同时在 Bermer 的伴侣和拍档 Cristina 的协助下，新东家更加雄心勃勃地继续开展 Stefano Bemer 的项目。为了达成目标，他们搬迁到新址——一间占地 300 平方米的老教堂，开设了新店，鞋店包含三个区域：制作区，秉承 Stefano 的制鞋精髓；成鞋区，主打成鞋系列，致力于将 Stefano Bemer 产品推介给全球的顶级鞋店；培训学校，继续传承品牌创始人 Stefano Bemer 的技艺。 Stefano Bemer 的产品定期在世界各大城市的 “衣箱秀（ ” Trunk Show，时尚圈的新名词，指非公开的新时装展示会）上亮相。想要了解发布会资讯请登录品牌官网 www.stefanobemer.com。 38 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential SHOES

The famous Florence house, founded in 1983 by Stefano Bemer, who passed away in 2012 aged just 48, is where some of the best handmade shoes in Italy – and the world, according to experts – come from. Considered an example of dedication and talent, and one of the great champions of his art, Bemer started at the bottom, fixing shoes in Greve, Chianti. “I saw my destiny through the hole of a shoe”, he said one day in an interview, explaining that it was the absence of a cobbler to fix his shoes where he lived that led him to embrace the profession. Impressed by the passion and quality of his work, it’s said that, one day, a local aristocrat showed him a collection by John Lobb, which left him in awe. Convinced that that was what he wanted to do, he left for Florence where he learned the art that fascinated him with an old master, before setting up on his own in the neighbourhood of San Frediano. The workshop gained recognition for the quality of the shoes that Stefano produced, but also for the curious fact that the British actor Daniel Day-Lewis worked there as an apprentice before becoming famous in Hollywood. Clients such as Julio Iglesias, Andy Garcia and the designer Gianfranco Ferré also helped the popularity of the house. After Stefano’s sudden death, in 2013 the house was bought by another family business, the prestigious Scuola del Cuoio, specialising in handmade ladies handbags. Under the command of Tommaso Melani and with the help of Bemer’s companion and associate Cristina, they gave continuity to the project with even more ambitious prospects. To achieve that, they moved to a new location – an old 300sqm church – where they set up a new workshop with three areas: the manufacture, which remains true to Stefano’s

mastery; a space dedicated to the new ready-towear line, which intends to take the Stefano Bemer product to the best shoe stores in the world; and a training school, committed to giving

continuity to the founder’s craft. Stefano Bemer merchandise is regularly presented in trunk shows in the world’s key capitals. The calendar can be consulted at www.stefanobemer.com.

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 39

Essential SHOES

Gaziano & Girling 英意精髓合体 BRITISH-ITALIAN REFINEMENT

已有 20 余年制鞋经验的 Tony Gaziano 和 Dean Girling 是英国鞋履界的新秀。他们最初在位于有英国“制鞋之都”美誉之称的北安普敦（Northampton，英格兰中部郡名）鞋厂打工，后又在定制鞋履领域的其他品牌旗下累积经验，并于 10 年前联手创立了自己的品牌 Gaziano & Girling（简称 G&G）。作为英国“手工制作 ”风潮的主要推动者，G&G 的风格巧妙融合了意大利的高雅风格和外观以及英国产品的坚固耐用。品牌最知名的 Deco 系列于 2011 年上市，灵感源自装饰艺术，是优雅和独特风格的完美典范，为品牌赢得了无 40 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

与伦比的殿堂级地位，同时也吸引了新一代的定制客户。 2006 年，品牌在北安普敦郡附近的凯特灵（Kettering）开设了一个仅有 20 位工人的小工坊，工坊成为了此地一百多年来首次开业的新厂。这是品牌成功的最有力明证。虽然资历尚浅， Gaziano & Girling 却单一采用 Goodyear 工艺（Goodyear 工艺是一种世界顶级鞋履的独特制作工艺，这项缝制技术可被称为是高品质的代名词。简单地说，是将鞋帮与鞋底缝制在一起，这种精湛的接合技术保证了鞋子的舒适度、防水功能和坚实度），

其地位与英国制鞋界中的传奇品牌 Edward Green、John Lobb、George Cleverley 以及 Crockett & Jones 看齐。G&G 的产品分为三类：高级定制鞋、选款定制鞋和成品鞋。Bespoke 鞋当然是位于品牌金字塔顶尖位置的产品，让客户能够最极致地表达个性，完全手工打造的量脚定制鞋是集合了客户的个性表达和制鞋大师精湛技艺的精工之作，是名副其实的艺术品。客户可以前往伦敦萨维尔街（世界最顶级西服手工缝制圣地）的 G&G 店铺定期举办的衣箱秀上进行脚部尺寸测量。G&G 每年制作的量脚定制鞋不超过 100 双。

Essential SHOES

They are the new stars of “made in the UK” footwear. Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling have produced shoes for more than 20 years. They started working in factories in Northampton, Britain’s shoemaking capital, and in other houses in the bespoke field before joining forces to establish their own company 10 years ago. The main driving force behind the “handmade” movement in the UK, their style is a compromise between sophistication and the appeal of Italian style, and the rigour and durability of British construction. The brand’s Deco line, created in 2011 and inspired by Art Deco, for which they

are best known, is the perfect example of the elegant and distinct style that earned them the status of true icon and which most contributed in attracting a new generation of bespoke clients. The most significant proof of their success was the opening of a small production unit in 2006, with just 20 workers, in Kettering, a town close to Northampton where a new factory hadn’t opened its doors for more than 100 years. Working exclusively with the Goodyear process, despite its youth, Gaziano & Girling is in the same playing field as legendary names of British footwear, such as Edward Green, John Lobb,

George Cleverley and Crockett & Jones. G&G’s portfolio is structured in three levels: bespoke, made to order and ready to wear. The bespoke, of course, is the pinnacle of the pyramid of the house’s work and allows the client to push personalisation to the limit, in a joint process that brings together the client’s expression and the excellent execution, exclusively by hand, of the craftsman, making these pieces true works of art. The measurements are made in store on Savile Row, or at the trunk shows that take place regularly. No more than 100 pairs are produced annually.

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Essential SHOES

Benjamin Klemann 德国鞋履中的劳斯莱斯 THE GERMAN ROLLS-ROYCE

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Klemann Shoes 堪称鞋履中的劳斯莱斯。无论您认同与否，这种比喻都算得上贴切。这一比喻出现于劳斯莱斯被德国宝马收购前或后，我们不得而知，但这家由 Benjamin Klemann 创立的同名定制鞋品牌，堪称最顶尖的德国定制鞋商，而且散发浓郁的英伦风格。这是他在伦敦生活并为著名鞋履品牌工作时汲取的风格。他曾为之效力的品牌包括 John Lobb、Foster & Son 以及（如今已经关闭的）McAfee。但 Benjamin 的独特职业背景把他推向同样卓著的匈牙利制鞋工艺，他曾在德国最杰出的制鞋大师 Julius Harai 门下当学徒，向大

师学习了使自己引以为傲的制鞋技艺。在英国学习了一段时间后，他回到祖国，开始着手准备开设自己的店铺，并于 1990 年取得成功。他与同样学习制鞋的妻子 Magrit 以及两个儿子一起设立了 Klemann Shoes。Klemann Shoes 是门名副其实的家庭事业，每一位家庭成员都全力以赴，亲力亲为。风格上， Benjamin Klemann 的鞋子既洋溢着英伦范 ——这在正式场合鞋子更彰显，如圆形、棱角分明的鞋头；又含有布达佩斯风格，在品牌德比鞋中可见一斑。鞋子构造方面，品牌的独特之处在于融汇不同流派的不同技艺，这也赋予鞋履独特不凡的个性。

Essential SHOES

Klemann Shoes is the Rolls-Royce of shoes. Whether you agree or not, the comparison isn’t completely far flung. We don’t know if they were made since, before or after the luxury British car brand was acquired by the German BMW, but the fact is that the house of Benjamin Klemann, renowned as the best German house producing bespoke shoes, has plenty of British influence. It was a style he acquired when he lived in London for some years, and worked at some of the leading names in the industry, such as John Lobb, Foster & Son and the (now closed) McAfee. However, Benjamin’s background pushed him in another, no less prestigious direction: the Hungarian school where he started as an apprentice under Julius Harai, who was the best

bottier in Germany and from whom he acquired a technical know-how that filled him with pride. After some time in England and back in his native Germany, he began working towards opening a store, which finally happened in Hamburg in 1990. With his two sons and wife, Magrit, trained in the same art, Klemann Shoes was a true family affair where everyone got their hands dirty. Stylistically, Benjamin Klemann shoes are somewhere between the British school, visible in the more formal footwear, with rounded and chiselled toes, and the Budapest school, as seen in the Derby shoes. In the construction field, the particularity of the house lies in the way in which it combines techniques, which makes the shoes unique in this sense as well.

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Essential SHOES

Dimitri Gomez 舒适有型 COMFORT AND STYLE

Dimitri Gomez 是著名定制鞋店 Crockett & Jones 的首席匠师。这位拥有西班牙血统的法国人被同行们认为是业界最杰出的制鞋大师，他对各种鞋子风格都非常在行，其卓越的制鞋知识完全融入到鞋子成品中，这一点没有多少人能做到。 Dimitri Gomez 入行很晚，25 岁才开始在一所矫正鞋学校学习，但由此他很快意识到自己应该改行。他又拜师于一位在巴黎 Rue du Faubourg 街工作的老鞋匠，学习了制鞋基本知识并掌握了高端鞋履艺术的上乘技艺。随后，他又先后在 Di Mauro 和 Vaneau 工作、进修，并于 1998 年加入北安普敦的英国百年品牌 Crockett & Jones 旗下的巴黎鞋店。该鞋店位于 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde 大街上，如今依然还在那里。除了完成 Crockett & Jones 的工作外（他负责设计产品，例如，他设计了品牌最高端的系列：Hand Grade），Dimitri 还推出了自己的鞋履系列：Sur Mesure 系列和 Bottier 系列。 Dimitri 无论是从制鞋工具还是用料选材方面，都始终谨遵行业的金科玉律，世界各地的客户都慕名前来定制品质超群、舒适独特并带有复古风格的鞋子。制鞋过程中他极为严谨、一丝不苟，采用严格的量脚机制和遵循解剖学特征，这些都充分体现了他对鞋子的舒适度和合脚度近乎痴迷的追求。制鞋过程如此精确，那么产量一年不超过 80 双也就不足为奇了。 44 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Dimitri Gomez is the maître-bottier of Crockett & Jones. A Frenchman with Spanish roots, he is considered by those in the know as one of the finest artisans of his kind, a recognised expert on the various stylistic languages of his métier, able to translate this knowledge

into the finished product that leaves his hands like very few others. His learnings started late, at the age of 25, at an orthopaedic shoe school, but he soon realised that his vocation was another. He moved to an old bottier, on Rue du Faubourg in Paris, where he learned the basics and gained the refinement of the art of high-end footwear. From there, he went to Di Mauro and Vaneau before moving to the British Crockett & Jones in 1998, more specifically to the centenarian Northamptonbased brand’s Paris shop on the corner of Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, where his workshop remains to this day. Alongside the work he does for Crockett & Jones (for which he designed, for example, the shape of the house’s most exclusive line, the Hand Grade Collection), Dimitri has his own Sur Mesure and Bottier lines. Known for his unwavering loyalty to the guiding principles of his profession, which goes from the choice of tools to the materials, Dimitri has clients from all over the world that follow him for the quality and comfort, but also for the unique, somewhat retro style that he imprints on his work. His execution process is extremely meticulous, with a strict measuring system and anatomic calculator that demonstrates his obsession for comfort and a good fit. Unsurprisingly, production doesn’t surpass 80 pairs a year.

John Lobb Bootmaker 贵族传统 ARISTOCRATIC TRADITION

走进伦敦圣詹姆斯街地区的 John Lobb 鞋店，真是举世无双的体验！John Lobb 伦敦店铺属于 John Lobb 家族，宛如一间博物馆，尽管 John Lobb 的品牌名称和巴黎店铺已于 1976 年被集团收购。爱马仕开设的 John Lobb 店铺离依旧巍然矗立在杰明街（Jermyn St.）上与 John Lobb 最初的老店很近，并继续为达官显贵和名流客户制作定制鞋。这些人自品牌成立之初起，便一直是品牌的忠实拥趸。 John Lobb 是一位康沃尔农夫的儿子，19 世纪中期他步行往伦敦学习制鞋，并于 1866 年创立了同名品牌。 John Lobb 学成出师后就前往澳大利亚寻找新机会。抵达澳洲后他为矿工制作工靴，从而声名鹊起。怀着雄心壮志，他参加了 1863 年的巴黎万国博览会，并赢得了金牌。其后

这位自豪的制鞋师寄了一双靴子给英国国王爱德华七世。爱德华七世品位不凡，眼光出众，穿上靴子一试，就毫不犹豫地宣布 John Lobb 成为自己的私家鞋子供应商。John Lobb 在伦敦摄政街（Regent Street）上开设了自己的首个店铺，由于品牌巨大的成功，多年后于 20 世纪早期又在巴黎设立首间店铺。经历了战争和大萧条洗礼的 John Lobb 今天依旧提供名闻遐迩的卓越服务。其顾客遍布全球各地，其中不乏过去两百年间最杰出的人物。在制鞋方面，John Lobb 秉承传统：所有工序依旧都是手工完成。品牌鞋子以经久耐穿而享誉八方，洋溢着典型的英伦风格——经典、朴实无华。制作过程也是纯定制：量脚、打版、试穿，整个过程耗时可达 6 个月。

Walking into John Lobb in St. James’s St. is a one-of-a-kind experience. The London store, a kind of living museum, belongs to the founder’s family, although in 1976 the John Lobb name and the store in Paris were sold to the Hermès group, where it still belongs today. With the French John Lobb store a stone’s throw away on Jermyn St., the original stood still in time and continues to produce bespoke shoes for a clientele of mainly aristocrats and famous folk that has stayed loyal to the house founded in 1866 by the son of Cornish farmers who, in the mid-19th century, walked to the English capital to learn the trade of shoemaker. Story goes that the apprentice, after becoming a master, travelled to Australia in search of new opportunities. He became famous for making boots for miners and his ambition took him to the Paris Universal Exposition in 1863, where he won a gold medal. The proud shoemaker sent a pair of boots to King Edward VII, a refined man with good taste who, after putting them on, had no hesitation in declaring him his personal supplier. He opened his first store in London, on Regent Street, and some years later, at the dawn of the 20th century, thanks to his huge success, he opened his first store in Paris. A survivor of wars and recessions, John Lobb arrives to us today offering the type of services that made the brand famous. Its list of clients is extensive and comprises some of the most prominent figures of the last two centuries. In terms of the shoe production, little has changed: all operations are done by hand. The style is typically British – classic bordering on austere, with its renowned durability. The process is typically bespoke: measurements, forms, fittings that can culminate in six months before the shoes or boots are ready to wear. 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 45

Essential SHOES

Hiro Yanagimachi 创新与古典风格荟萃 CREATIVITY AND CLASSICISM 日本人学东西快是众所周知的，总的来说，他们是完美主义者。日本人对材料和生产过程情有独钟，这点深植于东洋文化中。因此，日本能够制作出品质和细节都让人惊叹的鞋子也不足为奇。柳町弘之就是这样的例子之一。在日本进修成为工业设计师和鞋履设计师后，又在著名的英国维纳学院（Cordwainers College）受训。他在伦敦学习了量脚艺术，并在包括 John Lobb 在内的各大品牌旗下工作，积累了丰富的制鞋经验。返回日本后，他重操鞋履设计的旧业，并在 1999 年实现了打造自己品牌的梦想。他从 World Footwear Gallery（世界鞋履艺廊）起步，World Footwear Gallery 是一个位于东京的革新项 46 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

目，名下汇聚了各类品牌和设计师。他不仅在这里销售自己制作的鞋子，还向观众展示制鞋工艺。他的定制鞋逐渐开始赢得口碑。 2008 年，他离开了 World Footwear Gallery，并最终创立自己的工作室。柳町弘之以创新精神以及全情投入自己所钟情艺术而闻名，2009 年，他创立了定制鞋培训计划。他在许多微小细节和用材方面屡屡创新，令人难以置信的经典风格，是顾客对他的鞋子的第一印象。他的理念是为客户提供细节出众、洋溢个性的鞋履作品。柳町弘之提供三类定制鞋服务：选款定制、量脚定制及高级定制，并在欧洲举行衣箱秀。

It’s known that the Japanese learn fast and that, generally speaking, they are perfectionists. It’s also known that they have a culturally rooted affection for materials and for manufacturing. So it’s no surprise that the Far Eastern country has been producing bottiers that have amazed for the quality and the attention to detail of their work. Hiro Yanagimachi is one of those cases. He trained in England, at the prestigious Cordwainers College, after already being an industrial designer and having worked as a shoe designer in Japan. In London he learned the art of measurement, having worked at various houses, namely at John Lobb, where he gained much experience. Back in Japan, he went back to designing shoes, although his goal was to create his own brand, which happened in 1999. He began by setting up at the World Footwear Gallery, an innovative project in Tokyo that brings together various brands and designers, under his own name, in a space where he not only sold his shoes but that also showed the artisans at work. Gradually his bespoke shoes began to create a buzz. In 2008, he left the WFG to finally realise his dream of having his own studio. Known for his innovative spirit and attitude for the sake of his art, in 2009 he founded a bespoke training programme. Innovative in the more subtle details and in the use of materials, the first impression of his work is that it is of a disconcerting classicism. His philosophy is to provide the client with the shoe that is the expression of his personality, revealed in the details. Yanagimachi offers three services: made to order, made to measure and bespoke, and holds trunk shows in Europe.

Yohei Fukuda 东洋完美主义 EASTERN PERFECTION

日本也许是全球拥有最多制鞋大师的国家。过去十年间，许多日本人都曾前往法国、意大利及英国等欧洲国家留学，如饥似渴地汲取知识，回国后开始进军制鞋领域，福田洋平也是其中一员。堪称当今能制作最美妙鞋履的日本制鞋大师，他是有志向、有知识、有技能就能一往直前的最佳例子。而且他在行内百里挑一，在很短的时间内就达到了极致完美境界。福田洋平曾在伦敦的维纳学院（Cord wainers College）和北安普敦郡的郡莎学院（Tresham College）进修过。除了学习丰富的理论知识外，他还通过在进修学校附近的工厂打工并随后在 John Lobb、Edward Green 及

George Cleverley 的定制鞋部门打工积累了不少经验。这些令人艳羡的经历让他在 2007 年回到日本后就开始着手创立自己的品牌。他在位于东京涩谷区的店铺中制作完美的英式风格鞋子，其设计取材于 20 世纪早期鞋履。福田洋平坚定地捍卫传统并收藏了许多制鞋艺术方面的书籍，他强调，鞋子中的每一个细节都有独特意义，他也是谨遵这一理念打造自己的鞋款。制鞋过程完全采用手工，并且对每个细节做到精益求精，难怪他一年只制作 60 双鞋子。他制作的鞋子分为四个级别：选款定制、量脚定制、部分高定和全高定。尽管他在欧洲有很多拥护者，但他的衣箱秀目前只在香港著名的 The Armoury 定制店举行。

Japan is probably the country in the world with the highest number of bottiers. In the last decades, many Japanese have gone on to study in Europe, to countries such as France, Italy and the UK, with the aim of drinking in all possible knowledge, return to their country and start working in the field. That’s exactly what Yohei Fukuda did. Perhaps the shoemaker with the most impressive “made in Japan” work today, he is proof that when there is a will, knowledge and skill, everything is possible. In his case, it meant reaching a level of perfection only within the reach of the very best in a short time. Fukuda studied at Cordwainers College in London and at Tresham College in Northamptonshire. Besides his immense theoretical knowledge, he cut his teeth at factories in the region and later worked at the bespoke departments of John Lobb, Edward Green and George Cleverley. It was an enviable path that, back in Japan, led him to establish himself on his own in 2007. From the Shibuya neighbourhood in the centre of Tokyo, he produces shoes in the most immaculate British style, whose design dates back to the early 20th century. A staunch champion of tradition and a collector of books about his art, he defends that every detail in a shoe has a meaning, and it’s from that assumption that he creates his models. With a totally manual process and a huge obsession for detail, it comes as no surprise that he makes just 60 pairs a year. His catalogue comprises four levels: made to order, made to measure, limited bespoke and full bespoke. Despite his many admirers in Europe, his trunk shows currently only take place in Hong Kong, where he travels to the famous store The Armoury. 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 47

Essential SHOES

Ramon Cuberta 西班牙制鞋大师 SPANISH MASTERY 西班牙拥有悠久的鞋子和皮具制造历史。但不知从何时开始，生产商开始为其他国家的品牌供货，他们自己的品牌逐渐式微，自然高端品牌也就一并消失了。但今时不同往日：许多西班牙品牌又如雨后春笋般出现在高端市场，与其他国家的情况类似，在小众市场如高定市场上出现了全新的制鞋大师。巴塞罗那品牌 Ramon Cuberta 就是这样的范例。品牌创立几年的时间里，就以超卓的品质吸引了全球各地粉丝，并得到专家的一致好评。Ramon 在伦敦时，曾拜访过圣詹姆斯街上的 John Lobb、Foster & Son 和 George

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Cleverley 店铺，一进入这些店铺，他便意识到自己会以制鞋为业。他先在巴塞罗那拜于鞋履大师 Pitu Cunillera 和 Carlos Piñol 门下，之后又师从 John Lobb 的制鞋大师。为其他品牌工作了几年后， 2014 年他终于决定在巴塞罗那市中心设立自己的制鞋店。 Ramon Cuberta 采用的 Goodyear 工艺、最优质的西班牙皮材和其鞋品的风格，全都体现出他受过多方面制鞋训练以及英伦制鞋大师的深刻影响。除了定制鞋外，他现在还推出了以自己最出众的作品为灵感的成品鞋系列。

Spain has a big tradition in footwear and the leather industry. However, at some point, the manufacturers started to supply brands in other countries. Their own brands started to dwindle and naturally the high end started to disappear altogether. But that’s all changing: an increasing number of Spanish brands are working in the highest segment of the market, and similar to what happened in other countries, there are some new faces cropping up in niche markets such as the bespoke market. Ramon Cuberta from Barcelona is one such example. In the few years it has been open for business, the brand has caught the eye of aficionados everywhere for the quality of his work and has received extremely positive expert reviews. Ramon discovered his vocation in London, upon walking into shops such as John Lobb, in St. James’s, Foster & Son and George Cleverley. He learned the art, first in Barcelona with the masters Pitu Cunillera and Carlos Piñol, and later under a John Lobb master. After several years working for others, he finally decided to open his own workshop in the centre of Barcelona in 2014. The Goodyear construction, the best Spanish leather and the style reflect his training and the admiration he has for the English masters. Besides total bespoke, Cuberta now has a ready-to-wear line, inspired by his most exclusive work.

Essential SHOES

Paulo Delgado 葡萄牙的定制鞋品牌 THE PORTUGUESE CASE 葡萄牙鞋履品牌 Paulo Delgado 由 Paulo Ribeiro 创立。土木工程师专业的他却在鞋履业看到了机遇。起初，他在纽约为葡萄牙品牌做代理。但进展并不顺利，他意识到，进入市场的唯一有效途径就是从高端市场入手，遂决定创立一个高端鞋履品牌。他意欲充分利用著名的 “葡萄牙制造 ”鞋履技艺这一优势。但葡萄牙鞋业几乎没有品牌策略（品牌很少，鞋子定价也不太高）， Paulo Ribeiro 与一位来自葡萄牙北部、经验丰富的制鞋大师合作，制作出品质和服务都能与最杰出品牌相媲美的产品。 Paulo Delgado 葡萄牙旗舰店的产品分为四个级别：选款定制鞋、成品鞋、量脚定制鞋和高级定制鞋。光是高定鞋系列有就 12 个基本款式，但他还是常说，“鞋无止境”。他的鞋子采用 Blake 工艺。Blake 结构除了能保持品质，他认为还能确保鞋子的弹性和舒适度（品牌尤其关注产品这种独特特征）， Paulo Delgado 旗舰店的鞋材部件也是市面上首屈一指的。 Paulo 一般在葡萄牙的店铺会见已预约的定制鞋客户，此外，他还在继续开发美国市场，目前已在纽约设立了三个销售点。 쐽

Paulo Delgado is a brand foundd by Paulo Ribeiro. A civil engineer by training, Paulo saw an opportunity in the footwear business. He started as a representative of Portuguese brands in New York. When he wasn’t successful, he came to the conclusion that the only efficient way to enter the market was through the top and he decided to found a brand of high-end shoes. Intending to take full advantage of the recognised know-how of “made in Portugal” footwear, which rarely has much expression in own brands (they are few and far between or founded on lower prices), Paulo Ribeiro established a partnership with an extremely experienced Portuguese shoemaker located in the north of the country to produce pieces able to compete with the best in terms of product quality and service.

Working from its flagship in Portugal, Paulo Delgado’s production is split into four levels: made to order, ready to wear, made to measure and bespoke. The bespoke collection has 12 basic models, but as he says, “the sky is the limit”. Using the Blake construction, an option that maintains all the quality and which in his opinion gives greater elasticity and comfort to the final product (a particularity that the brand is especially attentive to), the components at Paulo Delgado are some of the best available on the market. Besides his store in Portugal, where he meets bespoke clients by reservation, Paulo continues to invest in the American market, where he currently has three sales points in New York. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 49

动物与时尚 Fashion Animal

摄影、摄影助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 制作、制作助理 PRODUCTION SUSANA MARQUES PINTO (WWW.PULPFASHION.PT) ASSISTED BY DÉBORA FARIA 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DEN BERG (WWW.SKINLIFE.PT) WITH BY TERRY PRODUCTS（化妆用品：By Terry）发型 HAIR ANA FERNANDES FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE WITH L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONEL PRODUCTS（美发用品：L'Óreal Profesionnel）模特 MODEL ANASTASIA (L'AGENCE)

特别鸣谢 SPECIAL THANKS TO VINTAGE DEPARTMENT STORE

和服 Kinomo: 德赖斯·范诺顿 Dries Van Noten 连衣裙 Dress: 华伦天奴 Valentino 耳环、项链 Earrings and necklace: Machado Joalheiro 鞋 Shoes: 鲁伯特·桑德森 Rupert Sanderson

套衫 Pullover: 米索尼 Missoni 衬衣 Shirt: 曼图 Mantu 短裙 Skirt: Stella Jean 项链 Necklaces: Rosantica 鞋 Shoes: 罗杰·维维亚 Roger Vivier

外套 Jacket: Uterqüe 上衣 Top: 巴尔曼 Balmain 短裙 Skirt: 汤姆·福特 Tom Ford 鞋 Shoes: 罗杰·维维亚 Roger Vivier

连衣裙 Dress: 汤姆·福特 Tom Ford 短项链 Chocker: Uterqüe 腰带 Belt: 巴尔曼 Balmain

短外套 Blazer: 巴尔曼 Balmain 上衣 Top: Uterquüe 短裤 Shorts: 华伦天奴 Valentino 耳环 Earrings: Marco Bicego 胸针 Brooch: H. Stern 鞋 Shoes: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana

开衫 Cardigan: Boutique Moschino 连衣裙 Dress: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 手镯 Clutch: Uterqüe 鞋 Shoes: 芬迪 Fendi

上衣 Top: MSGM 长裤 Trousers: 爱斯卡达 Escada 耳环 Earrings: Machado Joalheiro 手镯 Bracelets: Maliparmi

风衣外套 Trench coat: 巴宝莉·珀松 Burberry Prorsum 连衣裙 Dress: Carlos Gil 项链 Necklaces: Rosantica 戒指 Ring: 宝曼兰朵 Pomellato 鞋 Shoes: 菲拉格慕 Salvatore Ferragamo

Essential TRENDS

80 年代怀旧风强势回归 The power of the ‘80s 1980 年代怀旧风席卷各大秀场，无疑也带回了那年代标志性的强势肩线。今年春夏季，在外套、上衣的肩膀嵌入固定支撑的部分来创造宽肩或高肩线条，这样的设计元素出现于多个搭配，例如巴黎世家、 DKNY、赛琳以及迈克 · 柯尔的时装系列 The revival of the 1980s inevitably brings back the “power shoulder”. This spring/summer, the structurally wide, high shoulders appear in the collections of Balenciaga, DKNY, Céline and Michael Kors Collection 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

Balmain

62 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

0年代又回归，带回了那个年代有趣好玩的一切。但体现在时装上的一些细节保准已被大众遗忘，例如裤袜、紧身莱卡裤和强烈、鲜艳色彩。然而，正是所有这些元素结合一起，共同缔造出80年代的强烈风格和夸张、疯狂的视觉盛宴。殿堂级品牌 Balenciaga（巴黎世家）在其设计中加入一点点 80 年代时兴的那些万无一失的元素：从艳丽的色彩，到闪耀的材料和层叠结构，再结合以傲慢和率真的態度。美国的 Michael Kors（迈克·柯尔）推出的设计，玩味芭芭拉·斯坦威克、凯瑟琳·赫本和金 ·贝辛格等前代和当代美国女明星的 “性感和挑衅态度”。其时装系列回顾从 20 世纪 40 年代到 80 年代的时尚潮流，以好玩、有趣的手法重新诠释复古元素，以表达女性风姿最神秘的一面，而又不显粗俗。“我表达的是这样的女人：当需要有所节制时，她们知道自己的极限，”当系列去年 9 月在纽约推出时，设计师迈克·柯尔在后台如是说。

he ‘80s are having another moment, bringing back all the fun that this era had to offer. But some details that have come back into fashion could definitely have been forgotten, such as the leggings, the tight Lycra trousers and the excess sparkle. However, the truth is that all this together is what makes the visual madness of the 1980s. The iconic Balenciaga couldn’t resist incorporating a little of all those infallible ingredients of the ‘80s trends, from the loud colours to the shiny materials and draped layers, combined with an arrogant and unpolished attitude. The designs from the American Michael Kors play with the “sensuality and provocative attitude” of women like Barbara Stanwyck, Katharine Hepburn and Kim Basinger. His collection is a short journey from the 1940s through to the ‘80s, in an interesting twist that expresses the most mysterious side of the female

Balenciaga

Elie Saab Bottega Veneta 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 63

Chanel 64 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential TRENDS Céline（赛琳）的英籍设计师菲比 ·菲罗（Phoebe Philo）则充分呈现其服装设计的个性，“让作品自己说话而不加任何语言诠释去令人理解、吸收”，这番说话是菲比本人在时装发布会后亲自说的。显而易见，其设计融合了 80 年代及 90 年代末的风格，而且这种融合注重将多种表达性细节共融一体，包括从印花到图画，从直线条到厚重感设计。她的新作有趣味、大胆、具探索性，有些许的创意，却总是调度得宜，恰到好处。基本上，它们闪亮耀眼，却不温不火；宽肩加长身剪裁夹克上衣回流，但不会过火；大量采用莱卡、悬垂皱褶甚至闪耀色彩、元素，却又恰到火候。顺应潮流的个人着装选择，完全在于你怎样判断、诠释各品牌的设计及其设计师，并结合自己的风格和身形去选装。毕竟，下一季将继续百花齐放，你须在难以取舍中作出英明抉择，将适合的纳为己用。 쐽

Christian Dior

Elie Saab

Balmain

attitude without being vulgar. “I’m talking about women that know their limits when there has to be control,” said Michael Kors backstage when his collection was presented in New York in September last year. Phoebe Philo, the British fashion designer at Céline, is showing the personality of her clothes and giving a voice that doesn’t need words to be understood and absorbed, as she said herself after the launch of the collection. There’s an obvious mix of the ‘80s and the late ‘90s, favouring co-existing interpretive details in the mixture, from prints to painting, from straight lines to

plenty of volume. The new creations call for fun, boldness and exploring ideas, more or less creative, always tempered by good judgement. Basically, celebrate shine, but within reason; wide shoulders and long-cut jackets are back, but be controlled; plenty of Lycra, lots of draping and even more bling, but in moderation. It’s a matter of judgement and interpreting the brand’s creations and their respective designers, keeping in mind your own style and silhouette. Above all, the coming seasons will once again bring a mix of inspirations, challenging you to make them your own. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 65

Essential BEAUTY

甜蜜陷阱一个充满神秘气息的春日系列交织着花朵芬芳与甜蜜香气，安娜苏 2017 春季彩妆系列“秘藏花园”，让你沉醉于品牌独特的魅惑吸引力。该系列主打安娜苏“甜蜜魔法糖果盒”，复古魔盒中蕴藏着两颗华丽糖果——“唇颊两用蜜”和“甜蜜眼影”。唇颊两用蜜有着蜜糖般的丝滑质地，涂抹上色非常轻松，指尖轻扫双唇和脸颊即可带来迷人色彩，之后再加上以巧克力为灵感的甜蜜眼影，打造调皮妆容。至于“星炫云彩唇膏”就有三种色调，云石纹配色带来柔滑粉嫩色彩，闪耀如空中星辰。再加上全新安娜苏魔幻森林防晒润唇膏和共有三种色彩的限量版安娜苏指甲油，完美打造该系列甜蜜的神秘魔力。

The Sweet Trap A mysterious spring collection that weaves colourful flowers and sweet scents, Anna Sui 2017 Spring Collection I, The Forbidden Garden welcomes you to indulge in the brand’s unique alluring charm. The collection is grounded in Colour Collection, a vintage magic box containing two sweet temptations – Lip & Face Colour SW and Eye & Face Colour SW. With its honey-like texture Lip & Face Colour SW glides on effortlessly; just use your fingertips to easily to apply a flush to your cheek and lips, then top with the chocolate-inspired Eye & Face Colour SW on your eyes, for a mischievous look. The Anna Sui Lipstick SW is available in three shades; a new fusion of milky colours, for a shimmering look like the stars in the sky. A brand new Lip Balm UV and three shades of limited Nail Colour SW complete the collection.

完美嘟嘟唇美国护肤品公司馥蕾诗创始人列夫·格拉斯曼和阿莲娜·罗特伯开创了美妆界以食糖作为护肤成分的先河，并不断用这种保湿成分的卓越抗老化功效，挑战创新极限。因为深信对待唇部就应如呵护眼部一样同等用心，馥蕾诗创出了红糖护唇膏。在品牌的护唇仪式三步曲之后，美丽饱满的双唇将呼之欲出。首先，用“黄糖抗皱护肌修护唇膏”软化滋润双唇。下一步，你可以从拥有 SPF 15 防晒功效的润色防晒护唇膏 15 种色彩中选择心仪色泽，滋润与保护的同时为唇部增添亮泽光彩。然后再添上澄糖丰盈臻润护唇膏，为你的嘟嘟唇带来温暖润泽的柔美粉色。最后，以全新的黄糖滋润柔亮护唇笔完成护唇三步曲，让双唇饱满柔软，深层沁润滋养，柔滑抚平唇纹，瞬间呈现如婴儿般的美唇。

Perfect Pout The founders of American skincare company Fresh, Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg pioneered the use of sugar as a natural humectant in the beauty industry and continue to push the envelope with the age-defying power of this moisture-preserving ingredient. Believing you should treat your lips with the same reverence as you treat your eyes the Sugar Lip Treatment was born. Following the brand’s three-steps lips regime, beautiful, plump lips are easy to achieve. First, smooth and soften your lips with Sugar Lip Treatment Advanced Therapy. Next, choose your favourite from the 15 shades of Sugar Bloom Tinted Lip Treatment Sunscreen SPF 15 which will moisturise and protects your lips while giving them a spring glow. Last, Sugar Bloom Tinted Lip Treatment Sunscreen SPF 15, will bring your pout a warm, luminous, feminine shade of soft pink. Conclude the regime with the new Sugar Lip Treatment Perfecting Wand, which gently buffs the lips while nourishing, smoothing, softening, and leaving an instant, baby-soft glow. 66 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BEAUTY

做个加利“粉”尼亚少女！

Be a GALifornia Girl!

如火夏日即将来临，扔掉沉暗的冬日妆容，为你的双颊扫上一抹金灿粉红，营造新鲜夏日妆面吧！由两姐妹创办的美国美妆品牌贝玲妃，最出名的就是她们创意十足又好玩有趣的各式产品。贝玲妃花样众多的蜜粉腮红，就是全球粉丝爱不释手的经典系列。这些令人垂涎欲滴的娇媚色彩不单是腮红这么简单，轻轻一扫，贝玲妃蜜粉就能为你的娇肤带来美丽红晕，既可用于点亮双颊，更能为你刻画全脸立体轮廓。延续品牌标志性的美国风格，贝玲妃今夏为蜜粉家族推出全新成员——加利“粉”尼亚金光闪闪粉色腮红。受加利福尼亚冲浪女孩儿们启发，色彩斑斓、古灵精怪的小众潮流风格盒子上，是一个带着大太阳眼镜的个性女孩，而打开盒子，内里就是从太阳上抖落的加利 “粉”尼亚粉色金光！只需在苹果肌上扫一点粉色腮红，就能染上加利福尼亚的光芒。

Just in time for the hot summer, get rid of dark wintery makeup and add a splash of goldenpink to your cheeks for a fresh summer look. Founded by twin sisters, American beauty brand Benefit is famed for its creative and playful products. The company’s iconic Box o’ Powder Collection is highly sought-after by fans worldwide. These coveted pops of colour are more than just blush… chisel those cheekbones or contour your entire complexion with shades that promise an instant, beautiful flush. Continuing its signature American style, the brand welcomes a new member to this wonderful collection, the new GALifornia sunny golden-pink blush. Inspired by Californian surfer girls, the colourful, hipster package, printed with a bold girl in a pair of sunglasses, contains the pink sunshine from California. Dust this pink blush onto the apples of your cheeks for an instant California girl look.

恒久美肌日本奢华美肌品牌澳尔滨以其独特科技和高端原料而闻名遐迩，其贵妇系列“雅思臻颜”则以其高效的季节性定制护理产品而备受追捧。作为品牌最顶级的尊贵系列，“雅思臻颜激活细胞系列”的主要成分 DHEA 是来自马达加斯加的萃取精华，同时也大量存在于年轻健康的肌肤中，而正是这种神奇物质，能够让细胞转变为超级新生无龄细胞，带来永恒美颜。该系列包括雅思臻颜激活细胞渗透乳、柔肤水与美容液，每一款产品都经过皮肤科测试，确保实现卓越的顶级护肤功效。丰润质感加上唤起心底美丽感受的独特香气，为肌肤带来无限奢华感受，让每日的护肤步骤变为愉悦的满足体验。

Timeless Skin Japanese luxury skincare brand Albion is renowned for its unique technology and high-end ingredients. The Excia series is a premium line from the prestige brand, providing seasonally tailored treatments known to be effective. Excia Embeage features “DHEA,” a substance found in abundance in healthy and youthful individuals, as well as extracts native to Madagascar, which transforms cells into super-revitalised ageless cells achieving eternal beauty. Comprising Excia Embeage Milk, Excia Embeage Lotion and Excia Embeage Dionectar, each product is clinically tested to ensure it delivers definite premium skin benefits. The luxurious feel on the skin derived from the rich texture combined with a fragrance that awakens your sense of beauty makes your skincare routine a blissful experience.

英伦美妆

British Beauty

以品牌的英伦精神和户外传统为灵感，博柏利美妆创造出一个纯正臻至的英伦妆容。光彩照人的健康肤色那种迷人自然光泽，是博柏利妆容的核心。这个春季，博柏利美妆推出全新丝绒雾彩奶油唇釉，哑光雾面色彩蕴含饱满色泽，丝绒质地舒适柔润。用这款顺滑无比的唇釉抚过双唇，带来持续八小时的丝绒质地与惊艳色彩，而缤纷美丽的 14 个色号，则总有一款适合你。

Inspired by the brand’s British heritage and outdoor roots, Burberry make-up creates a quintessentially British look. A natural glow stands at the heart of Burberry make-up: a radiant, healthylooking complexion. This spring, Burberry make-up debuts its new member Liquid Lip Velvet, a matte cream lip colour, that combines rich pigments with a comforting texture. It glides on the lips smoothly to create a bold velvet finish that lasts for up to eight hours. This new product is available in 14 shades. 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 67

Essential BAZAAR

自由自在

现代气息与强大功能意大利品牌杰尼亚年轻副线 Z Zegna 为 2107 秋冬推出的系列以功能性剪裁为主题。由设计师亚历山德罗·萨托利呈献的最新设计拓宽了杰尼亚最热门面料 Techmerino 的用途。该系列为活跃的生活方式而设并十分注重舒适度，结合大量的针织和丝绸面料，带来一个全新的优雅组合。简洁，现代，独特，该系列以 70 年代怀旧运动风潮为灵感，采用哑光黑白灰等单色色系，融入柔和丝滑的骆驼及骆马毛色以及松针绿色，再以辣椒红和芥末黄点亮整体造型。

艺术与潮流

复古灵感沛纳海两款全新的 Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio 手表以 30 年代末期的手表系列为灵感，重现了该系列的全部经典之处。其中之一，就是 12 面的抛光精钢表圈，至于不锈钢表壳则与品牌的经典之作一样同为 47 毫米，表盘同样也凝聚着该系列的历史。既简亦雅，该款腕表的夹层结构保证了指针和时间标志清晰易读，可供选择的亮色分别是与古董表款相同的黑色，以及沛纳海品牌迄今为止从未有过的棕色。P.3000 手动上链机芯包括一个可以快速更改时间的装置。

爱马仕推出 2017 年春夏男士围巾系列。该系列的广告灵感来自爱马仕今年的主题“物之本意” （The Sense of Object），并由著名摄影师丹尼尔·雷耶拉掌舵照片创作，之后再由艺术家托马斯· 勒鲁对这些照片进行二次创作并对其再次拍摄。通过在图像中融入不同寻常的日常物件，爱马仕的服饰在照片中获得全新意义。该系列围巾包括丝绸、棉质、羊绒和斜纹等材质，分为 100、140 和方形三种大小，至于其设计就出自卡西·拉坦、伊莱雅斯· 卡弗罗和于高·伽陀尼等设计师之手。

Vintage inspiration

Modern and multifunctional Performance tailoring is the theme behind the new Autumn/Winter 2017 collection by Z Zegna. The latest offering from Alessandro Sartori broadens the use of the fabric Techmerino, one of the most widely sold by the Italian house, focusing on knits and silks and proposing new sophisticated combinations, with comfort and active lifestyle as a main concern. Contemporary, simple and exclusive, the collection is inspired by the sporty graphics of the 1970s and is centred on a solid colour palette, such as matte black, white mixed with grey and smooth camel, natural vicuña and pine leaf green, all matched with chili and mustard powder details. www.zegna.pt

68 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

The two new Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio models from Panerai are inspired by the vintage watches from that line that date back to the late 1930s, reproducing all their key characteristics. Example of this is the 12-sided bezel in brushed steel. As for the stainless steel case, it has the same size as the brand’s classic timepieces (47mm). Even the dial reflects the past of the range. Simple and minimalist, with a sandwich structure enhancing the readability of the indicators and markers, it’s available in black (the colour of the vintage watch) or brown (a completely new colour in the Panerai collections). The handwound mechanical movement P.3000 includes a device to quickly change the time. www.panerai.com

Art and trends Hermès presented its men’s silk scarf collection for Spring/Summer 2017. When creating the campaign, the maison drew inspiration from this year’s chosen theme, “The Sense of Object”, and entrusted the imagery to photographer Daniel Riera, whose photos were then altered and photographed once again by the artist Thomas Lélu. By incorporating unusual everyday objects in the images, the brand’s clothes gained new meaning. These include the silk, cotton, cashmere and twill scarves, available in three sizes (100, 140 and diamond) and featuring designs created by several designers, such as Cathy Latham, Elias Kafouros and Ugo Gattoni. www.hermes.com

古驰品牌创意总监亚力山卓· 米开理和知名西班牙调香师艾伯特·莫瑞拉斯携手创造了古驰“罪爱”系列香氛的“Guilty Absolute”，以阳刚气息四散蔓延的木质香调，勾起人们对自由自在的男子之想象。皮革和金色木质调与特别为这款香氛挑选的阿拉斯加扁柏精油混合，再加上来自广藿香和香根草的三种精油，以芬芳的泥土气息，让香气更加浓郁突出。瓶身设计的流畅线条以古驰首款 Guilty 香氛为灵感，搭配闪亮的黑色瓶盖，内里如干邑美酒般的棕色香水则显得分外迷人。香水外盒的烟草棕色则延续了这款男香的一贯色调。

Freedom Created from the collaboration between Alessandro Michele, the brand’s creative director, and Alberto Morillas, the renowned Spanish perfumer, the fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute reveals a woody masculine scent that personifies the free man. Notes of leather and goldenwood are mixed with the natural extract of the Nootka Cypress, especially selected for this perfume. The scent is intensified by three different oils of patchouli and earthy vetiver. The design of the bottle, with its smooth lines inspired by the original Gucci Guilty, reveals the cognac-coloured perfume inside and has a shiny black lid. The case evokes tobacco and army-themed tones. www.gucci.com

Essential BAZAAR

奢华咖啡奢侈咖啡用具品牌 Royal Paris 推出的全新 Royal 咖啡壶被认为是全球最尊贵的咖啡壶之一。选用 24K 黄金或白金精雕细琢，再嵌上水晶与半宝石妆点，打造这样一台咖啡壶需耗时约 50 小时，而每一件作品的制作、组装和装饰工序全部由专业匠人手工完成。这款杰作每月限量出产八个，每一个咖啡壶都有独立编码，而品牌同样可根据买家的喜好量身定做。受十九世纪五十年代的虹吸咖啡壶启发，Royal Paris 自上世纪九十年代起便与法国艺术家让-卢克· 热奥托合作，开始生产类似的咖啡壶作品。

悠闲奢华

优雅风尚菲拉格慕全新太阳镜系列为女性呈献洋溢现代气息的优雅款式，糅合传统与创新，为造型注入风格与个性。茶杯或猫眼形状是这个独特系列的抢眼特色，比如图中这款就是极佳体现。太阳眼镜和谐结合塑料及金属材质，并以先进的挤压涂布工艺为镜脚添上彩色珐琅点缀。

Sophisticated lifestyle

Extravagant coffee The new Royal coffee machine from Royal Paris is considered one of the most exclusive in the world. Meticulously crafted by hand in 24k gold or silver and combined with crystals and semiprecious stones, it’s estimated that this machine takes around 50 hours to produce, as each piece is crafted, assembled and decorated by hand by expert craftsmen. Limited to eight units per month, each numbered accordingly, the Royal can also be personalised according to the buyer’s preferences. Inspired by the siphons from 1850, Royal Paris started to produce similar machines to the ones from that era in 1990, along with the collaboration of the French artist Jean-Luc Rieutort. www.royalcoffeemaker.com

The new sunglasses collection from Salvatore Ferragamo presents sophisticated and modern models, combining tradition and innovation and evoking style and personality. The teacup or cat eye shapes are the main characteristics of this particular collection. Example of this is the model pictured, defined by the mixture of plastic and metal and with the arms decorated in coloured enamel, thanks to the artisanal technique of extrusion. www.salvatoreferragamo.com

美妆更简单香奈儿全新推出丝缎持久唇膏笔，为双唇带来色彩持久浓郁的丝缎质感。这款唇膏笔共有 Rose Violine 浅玫瑰、Fuschia 紫红、Framboise 明亮玫粉色、 Rouge 大红色、Rouge Corail 珊瑚调红色和 Rose Clair 冷调粉色六色，质感柔滑滋润，首次涂抹后色彩可保持达 4 小时。蜡笔状设计方便携带，其笔尖可用于勾画唇形，而扁平部分则可用于为双唇涂满色彩。

面世 25 年，珠宝品牌 Tamara Comolli 是高级珠宝市场真正的耀眼明星。悠闲奢华是品牌的一贯风格，其珠宝系列以大量彩色宝石为每一件作品注入风格、内涵与意义。比如 Mikado 系列的 Mikado 弗朗明哥糖果手镯就是典范，以 18k 黄金制成的手镯搭配 51 颗精挑细选的亮色宝石，乃品牌最具标志性的作品之一。

Simplifying makeup Chanel has just launched Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur, a retractable pencil for the lips that is long-lasting with an intense, satiny finish. Available in six colours (Rose Violine, Fuschia, Framboise, Rouge, Rouge Corail and Rose Clair), the maison’s new lipstick has a smooth, moisturising texture that lasts four hours after the first application. With the ideal format to be carried anywhere, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur can be used two ways: the tip of the pencil is used as a lip liner, and the flat part is used to apply the product onto the lips. www.chanel.com

Casual luxury On the market for 25 years, the brand Tamara Comolli has truly stood out in the fine jewellery market. The collections abound with multi-coloured stones, whose combinations give its pieces a style, a story and a purpose, with its sights always set on casual luxury. The Mikado Flamenco Candy bracelet, from the Mikado collection, is one of those examples. Made in 18k yellow gold and with its 51 meticulously chosen precious stones in bright colours, it is one of the house’s most iconic pieces. www.tamaracomolli.com

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 69

悦乐时光 Time and harmony

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 制作 PRODUCTION JEAN-PATRICK LEBLOIS / ROSA & TEIXEIRA 发型 HAIR RITA VASCONCELLOS FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE 模特 MODEL RODRIGO CASTELHANO (CENTRAL MODELS)

特别鸣谢 WITH THANKS TO: EUROMÚSICA 特别鸣谢 MODA NA: ROSA & TEIXEIRA

法兰绒双排扣西装：康纳利

Flannel double-breasted suit, Canali 腕表：朗格Lange 1 Rose Gold玫瑰金腕表

Watch, A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Rose Gold

黑色精纺超细150支西装：康纳利 Black super 150S suit, Canali 双袖衬衫：Rosa & Teixeira Double cuff shirt, Rosa & Teixeira 真丝领带：Drakes Silk tie, Drakes 袖扣：Tateossian Cufflinks, Tateossian 眼镜：卡加乐 Glasses, Cazal 钢笔：万宝龙M系列 Pen, Montblanc M 腕表：瑞宝Timemaster计时玫瑰金腕表 Watch, Chronoswiss Timemaster Chrono Rose Gold

羊毛、真丝及亚麻外套：康纳利

Wool, silk and linen jacket, Canali 眼镜：奧利弗·皮帕斯

Glasses, Oliver Peoples 腕表：积家经典翻转系列精钢腕表

Watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Steel

羊毛、羊绒双排扣外套：康纳利

Double-breasted jacket in wool and cashmere, Canali 衬衫：Rosa & Teixeira

Shirt, Rosa & Teixeira 羊绒领带：Drakes

Cashmere tie, Drakes 腕表：沛纳海Radiomir 1940系列红金腕表

Watch, Panerai Radiomir 1940 Red Gold

修身弹力府绸衬衫：Rosa & Teixeira

Slim-fit stretch poplin shirt, Rosa & Teixeira 纯美利奴羊毛开衫：Zanone

100% Merino wool cardigan, Zanone 斜纹棉修身长裤：Incotex

Slim-fit trousers in cotton twill, Incotex 腕表：万宝龙传承系列Orbis Terrarum精钢腕表

Watch Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum Steel

精纺超细150支Drop 8（修身）礼服：Rosa & Teixeira

Super 150S Drop 8 (slim) tuxedo, Rosa & Teixeira 府绸暗襟衬衫：Fray Poplin shirt with covered placket, Fray 双色真丝领结：Rosa & Teixeira

Two-tone silk bowtie, Rosa & Teixeira 眼镜：奧利弗·皮帕斯

Glasses, Oliver Peoples 腕表：爱彼千禧精钢腕表

Watch, Audemars Piguet Millenary Steel

圆高领羊绒真丝毛衣：Fedeli

Cashmere and silk half polo neck, Fedeli 精纺超细120支长裤：Incotex

Super 120S trousers, Incotex 腕表：宇舶经典融合系列王者至尊玫瑰金腕表

Watch, Hublot Classic Fusion King Gold

羊毛、羊驼呢及羊绒无内衬不规则外套：Brunello Cucinelli

Unlined, unstructured jacket in wool, alpaca and cashmere, Brunello Cucinelli 修身弹力府绸衬衫：Rosa & Teixeira

Slim-fit stretch poplin shirt, Rosa & Teixeira 羊绒领带：Drakes

Cashmere tie, Drakes 腕表：江诗丹顿Harmony玫瑰金腕表

Watch Vacheron Constantin Harmony Rose Gold

休闲双排扣羊绒外套：康纳利

Unstructured double cashmere jacket, Canali 羊绒真丝围巾：Loro Piana

Cashmere and silk scarf, Loro Piana 修身PDG法兰绒棉长裤：PT 01

Slim-fit PDG trousers in flannelled cotton, PT 01 腕表：Seven FridayQ系列精钢真皮腕表

Watch, Seven Friday Q-Series Steel and Leather

海岛棉府绸衬衫：Rosa & Teixeira

Poplin shirt in Sea Island Cotton, Rosa & Teixeira 纯粗花呢羊毛领带：Drakes

100% tweed wool tie, Drakes 腕表：库尔沃豪门系列精钢腕表

Watch, Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Collection Steel

Essential SHOES

少即是多 Less is more 只在澳门新濠天地鞋履沙龙专区独家有售， Rupert Sanderson 鞋履将意大利精工制作与英伦创新设计共冶一炉，创造出超凡卓越的极致效果 Available exclusively at the shoe salon at City of Dreams Macau, Rupert Sanderson shoes combine Italian craftsmanship with innovative British design to enormously successful effect 文/by EDWINA LAU

通

过与领先奢侈旅游零售商 DFS 合作，澳门新濠天地最近完成了其购物热点扩张项目，为时尚粉们打造了一个梦寐以求的血拼天堂。除了路易·威登、迪奥、普拉达、缪缪和芬迪等耳熟能详的大牌外，这里更有专门的沙龙专区和生活风尚区，在一个地方就能将众多品牌的精品一览无遗。据说占地共两层的鞋履专区是澳门种类最齐全的鞋履沙龙，为男士及女士提供超过 50 个鞋履品牌，其中更有独家在售的当红炸子鸡 — — 意大利 Aquazzura，以及备受喜爱的英伦品牌鲁伯特·桑德森（Rupert Sanderson）。 2001 年，鲁伯特·桑德森于伦敦创立同名鞋履品牌。在著名的伦敦艺术大学伦敦时装 86 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

学院鞋履专业毕业后，这位在马来西亚出生的设计师决定前往意大利，先后在制鞋名家塞乔 ·罗西和布鲁玛妮麾下工作精进技艺，然后再返回伦敦开设自己的制鞋公司。桑德森的设计哲学只有简单四字：“少即是多”。避免过多装饰与夸张造作，他以线条、体积和材质为重，从而衬托与修饰双脚，而正是这个 “少即是多 ”理念，为他赢得了超模凯特·莫斯和英国王妃凯特·米德尔顿等一众全球时尚精英的喜爱，成为品牌忠实拥趸。从感性的曲线到鞋楦和鞋跟的轮廓，再到到顶级皮革和布料的质感和细节，这些物料本身就是他的灵感。“我喜欢制作简朴含蓄的东西，或者说我更喜欢做减法而不是做加法 ——同时还要找到合适的线条，让鞋子能够

n collaboration with leading luxury travel retailer DFS, City of Dreams Macau recently completed its newly expanded shopping destination and it is a fashionistas dream. Alongside stores from luxury Houses such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Miu Miu and Fendi are dedicated salons and lifestyle areas where shoppers can peruse collections from multiple brands all in one place. Set over two floors, the shoe salon is said to be the largest in Macau offering more than 50 shoe brands for men and women, including, exclusively, Italian brand of the moment Aquazzura and beloved British brand Rupert Sanderson.

Essential JEWELLERY

Designer Mr. Rupert Sanderson 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 87

Essential JEWELLERY Rupert Sanderson is available in Macau exclusively at T Galleria by DFSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Macau's first shoe salon at City of Dreams Macau

88 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential SHOES

完美地包裹双足。[我认为关键是 ]用最少的东西，达到最好的效果，”他在业内顶尖杂志《鞋履动向 Footwear News》的采访中解释道。为了更好地实现自己的设计理念，桑德森于 2007 年收购了一间位于意大利博洛尼亚郊外的鞋厂，而每一双鲁伯特 ·桑德森的鞋履，即在这里由对待细节极其严苛的匠人，精雕细作而成。 “[收购鞋厂 ]并非我的计划，但和很多人一样，我与我的鞋厂建立了非常密切的关系，因为我对其十分依赖，你在那里渡过那么多时间，而你当极力希望做成某些事情，但最终却只能依赖别人时，这种（无力）感觉非常之强。你要紧密关注所有构成元素，并确保所有鞋底最终都达到合适要求。当工厂遇到困难，而我一直合作的工厂经理建议我收购这间鞋厂时，我突然顿悟‘天啊，如果我们能够实现这一切，那就真的太棒了’，” 桑德森继续解释道。

Rupert Sanderson founded his eponymous shoe brand in 2001. After attending the renowned Cordwainers College in East London, the Malaysian born designer set off for Italy where he perfected his craft working for Master cordwainers Sergio Rossi and then Bruno Magli before opening his London based company. Sanderson’s design philosophy is simply “less is more”. Avoiding augmentation and overdressing the foot, he concentrates on perfecting the line, volume and material to flatter and lengthen the leg – an ethos that has seen his shoes become a firm favourite with the world’s fashion elite, from the likes of Kate Moss to Kate Middleton. His inspiration comes from the materials themselves: from the sensual curve and silhouettes of the lasts and heels, to the quality and finish of the best leather and fabrics. “I like 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 89

Essential SHOES 在其设计生涯早期，桑德森曾在一间古董书店里发现了一本载有约 2 万种水仙品种的书籍，而这种明亮的小黄花其后亦成为了鲁伯特 ·桑德森鞋子命名的灵感，至于鞋跟上的金水仙亦成为了让人一眼就能认出的品牌标志。从优雅的船形高跟鞋到经典的玛丽珍绊带鞋，从柔软油皮到网纱，桑德森的鞋子选材繁多，更有想象力无限的色彩和特别细节，比如鞋跟上的金色叶子。他的卓越设计为他赢得了众多奖项及荣誉，包括英国时装协会年度配饰设计师大奖，以及于 2008 年及 2009 年连续两年摘得 Elle Style Awards 风格人物大赏年度最佳配饰设计师奖。此外，桑德森亦有和卡尔 ·拉格斐、安东尼奥 ·贝拉尔迪、娜塔莉 ·特拉德和刘易斯 ·哥登等艺术家及设计师合作。

making things spare – or removing things rather than adding them – and getting the line right so that it fits really beautifully on the foot. [It’s about doing] the most with the least,” explains the designer in an interview with leading industry magazine Footwear News. In order to reinforce his principles of design, in 2007 Sanderson purchased a shoe factory in the suburbs of Bologna where every pair of Rupert Sanderson shoes is meticulously handcrafted with exceptional attention to detail. “It was not in the plan, but like a lot of people, I developed a very intimate relationship with my factory because I was so reliant on it. It’s so consuming. You spend so much time there and you desperately try to get things to happen and are utterly reliant on other people. You are chasing up all the components and making sure all the soles fit the last. When the factory ran into trouble and the manager with whom I had been working suggested I buy it, suddenly I thought, “Geez, if we pull that off, that would be fantastic,” Sanderson continues. 90 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential SHOES

The new mall at City of Dreams Macau

澳门新濠天地鞋履沙龙专区独家发售该品牌众多款式，包括大热的 “Pebble”——以设计师在斯里兰卡海滩上找到的一块 “光滑的石头”为灵感，有着鹅卵石型装饰的 Pebble 是品牌经典鞋款，每个季节都会相应推出不同的鞋跟高度、材质、色彩以及铬、木制珠宝、金色笔画、珍珠和麂皮等点缀。“Rayelle” 是桑德森的标志性玛丽珍绊带鞋款，10 厘米高的鞋跟上装点着镂空细节，“Fairal”就是其 8 厘米鞋跟版本。“Ripple”则是另一款玛丽珍绊带鞋，鞋跟设计灵感则源自意大利设计大师索特萨斯的经典现代主义镜子。平底鞋 “Beau”由桑德森与知名伦敦街头艺术家安娜·劳丽尼合作设计，大胆的图案引人注目，而美轮美奂的设计又同时体现了两位艺术家的非凡天赋。此外，还有红毯宠儿 “Flute”，脚踩 8 厘米白金高跟，凝聚优雅气质的这双鞋子绝对让人惊艳不已。英伦设计灵感与意国顶尖手工共同造就的鞋履精品，现已在新濠天地鞋履沙龙独家发售 — — 鲁伯特 ·桑德森的作品，绝对是以 “最少 ”元素，取得 “最多 ”极致效果的最佳典范。 쐽

Instantly recognizable by the golden daffodil swipe on the heel, every pair of Rupert Sanderson shoes is named after this sunny yellow flower; an inspiration that came from a visit to an antique bookshop where, early in his career, the designer discovered a book listing some 20,000 daffodil varieties. From elegant court shoes to classic Mary Jane styles to comfortable flats, Rupert Sanderson shoes come in a variety of materials, from butter soft leather to tulle, in an infinite range of colours, and with an array of unusual finishes, including gold leaf heels. His exceptional designs have earned him accolades and awards including Accessory Designer of the Year from the British Fashions Council as well as Elle Style Awards in 2008 and 2009, respectively. The designer has collaborated with artists and designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Antonio Berardi, Nathalie Trad and Louise Goldin. Available exclusively in Macau at the shoe salon at City of Dreams Macau, are designs such as the popular The Pebble – a signature

model of the brand inspired by a "worn and burnished stone" that Sanderson found on a beach in Sri Lanka – which is offered seasonally with various heel heights, materials, colours and finishes including Chrome, Jewel Wooden, Gold Brushed Stroke, Pearl and Suede; Rayelle – Sanderson’s iconic Mary Jane style with cut out details on a 100mm heel, also available with an 80mm the Fairal; The Ripple, a Mary Jane with a heel development based on an iconic modernist mirror by Italian designer Ettore Sottsass; the Beau, designed in collaboration with renowned London street artist Anna Laurini, which beautifully showcases the talents of both artists in a funky, attentiongrabbing flat; and the elegant Flute, a favourite on the red carpet, featuring a stunning white gold 80mm heel. Inspired British design, impeccably made in Italy and now available exclusively in Macau at the shoe salon at City of Dreams, Rupert Sanderson shoes are testament to the fact that less is most definitely so much more. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 91

Essential JEWELLERY

夏日美体 Summer Beauty 夏天到了，有什么比到游泳池慵懒地消磨炎夏更惬意？《澳门精华》特地为您发掘夏日水疗护理疗程和套餐，为您打造迷人的比基尼身形 As summer approaches, bringing with it the promise of lazy days spent poolside, Essential Macau discovers spa treatments and packages to whip winter bodies into bikini shape from top to toe 文/by EDWINA LAU

身

体被温暖的冬季衣服包裹了几个月后，想到就要剥下厚冬衣，换上薄薄的泳衣，您可会有点不知所措？到城中的顶级水疗中心来个美体大改造，是开启夏季时光的一个绝佳方式。特别打造的各式特色疗法和护理疗程，为冬眠的身体进入炎炎夏日做好准备，完美的比基尼身材指日可待！

fter months of wrapping up in warm winter clothing the thought of peeling down to skimpy swimwear can be a little daunting. However, kicking off the summer season with a beauty overhaul at one of the City’s top spas is a great way to start and with signature therapies and treatments aimed specifically at getting winter bodies primed for summer, the perfect swimsuit body is within easy reach. 92 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential SPAS

丽思卡尔顿酒店「怡世宝水疗」 ESPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON MACAU

丽思卡尔顿酒店「怡世宝水疗」的接待处宁静宜人，奶白色的加尔各答大理石地板配搭棕褐色皮桌，舒适典雅，让宾客一进来就马上倍感放松。为享受下一步奢华细致的护理做好准备，客人可以先在雅致的湿区放松身心，享用蒸汽室、桑拿室、冰水喷泉和体验式淋浴间等设施。可爱的活力水池设有从天花板垂吊下来的柳条床，让您可以无比舒适地浮于水面上安躺。格调豪华雅致的理疗室和情侣理疗套房，注入中国及葡萄牙的传统设计元素，让宾客在远离繁嚣的静谧空间享受各类美妙的保健水疗按摩疗程。我们强烈推荐“怡世宝春日新姿水疗”，它可以为你褪去冬天的疲肌，焕肤醒肤，重现夏日的亮泽神采。此疗程由即日起至 4 月 30 日间推出。120 分钟的贴心疗程，先带您享受特色的香薰按摩，放松身心，滋润肌肤；更带来切合您所需的面部美容疗程，为肌肤重现亮泽神采。最后，再以舒服到位的头部按摩作结，为您纾压提神，促进血液循环，感受身心焕然一新的喜悦！

Right from its tranquil reception with Creamy Calcutta marble floors and tan leather desks, ESPA at The Ritz-Carlton, Macau immediately soothes the soul. As a precursor to

luxurious pampering treatments, guests are invited to relax in beautiful wet areas with steam rooms, saunas, ice-fountains and experience showers. Lovely vitality pools feature wicker beds suspended from the ceiling allowing guests to float over the water cocooned in comfort. Elegant treatment rooms and couples suites are infused with traditional Chinese and Portuguese design elements setting a tranquil scene for a menu of divine therapies. Highly recommended to slough of winter skin and achieve a dewy fresh summer glow is the ESPA Spring Smoother. Available from now until the end of April, this 120-minute treatment begins with the signature ESPA Aromatherapy Massage to relax the muscles and smooth the skin. This is followed by a personalised facial treatment designed to impart a radiant sheen to the complexion. Finally, a scalp massage releases tensions and stimulates blood flow revitalising the entire mind and body. 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 93

Essential SPAS

澳门文华东方酒店水疗中心 THE SPA AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU 澳门文华东方酒店水疗中心氛围静谧舒适，为宾客提供全面的身心恢复和放松疗程。设计上充分考虑到宁静致远的原则，其护理室和护理套房均配备私人设施、蒸汽淋浴和按摩浴缸，可远眺新口岸宁静迷人的海景，是让你放松纾压的圣殿。首先，宾客于热蒸和水疗综合设施开启理疗之旅，享用雨林体验式淋浴、蒸汽室、桑

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拿室和活力池，能放松酸痛的肌肉，让身体做好准备，以享受奢华的“夏日水疗体验” （Summer Spa Sensation）疗程。这个呵护备至的两小时疗程，先为您全身去角质去死皮，接着用薰衣草和薄荷精油进行香薰按摩，以舒缓和松弛疲惫的肌肤；然后敷上身体泥膜，以排出体内杂质，焕发肌肤活力，绽放光采，为您的泳池美照增添风采。

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Macau offers holistic rejuvenation and relaxation in a peaceful setting. Designed with total tranquillity in mind, treatment rooms and suites enjoy soothing views over the Nape waterfront, private Jacuzzi tubs and steam showers and space to relax and unwind. Begin your healing in the heat and water complex where rainforest experience showers, steam and sauna rooms and vitality pools will relax aching muscles and ready the body for an indulgent Summer Spa Sensation treatment. This indulgent two-hour treatment begins with a full-body exfoliation to remove unwanted dead skin cells and prepare the body for an aromatherapy massage with essential oils of lavender and peppermint to soothe and calm tired skin. Next comes a blissful mud wrap to draw out impurities and tone the body, leaving the skin plumped and rejuvenated and ready for some poolside posing.

Essential SPAS

澳门十六浦索菲特酒店 So SPA 水疗中心 SO SPA AT SOFITEL MACAU AT PONTE 16

澳门十六浦索菲特酒店 So SPA 水疗中心，提供融入法式技巧的世界各地古法理疗。这里犹如一个静谧的天堂，让人尽情放松、回复神采、焕发活力。自然设计风格让您感觉如同置身于普罗旺斯乡村旖旎的田园风光中。蜂蜜色的温暖木调，花卉雕刻的天花板和卵石花纹的大理石更添乡村宁静安逸的氛围。 So SPA 水疗中心拥有传统土耳其浴室、宁静放松室以及静谧理疗室，使用的是来自欧舒丹品牌的奢华护理产品，务求为宾客带来融汇中西的极致享受，让您奢享难能可贵的美妙舒缓时光。 So SPA 特别为夏季设计了“如此愉悦全身按摩 ”。这个 60 分钟疗程，护理师以有防嗮功效的椰子油和补水的蜂蜜为您按摩全身，为身体塑形的同时，焕发肌肤光泽，为您塑造美体，随时在夏日穿上泳装展示骄人身姿。쐽

So SPA at Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16 combines French savoir vivre with ancient wellness traditions from around the world. Designed to help guests relax, restore and rejuvenate, this haven of tranquility evokes the idyll of rural Provence with an interior scheme of honeycoloured wood, carved floral ceilings and pebble-dashed marble. Featuring traditional haman, serene relaxation rooms and tranquil treatment rooms, and utilizing products from renowned skincare specialist L’Occitane, So SPA offers the best of East and West culminating in the ultimate relaxing respite. Designed especially for summer, the So Exhilarating body massage is a 60-minute therapy that utilizes the natural SPF properties of coconut oil, and the hydrating properties of honey to shape and tone the body into swimsuit ready condition. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 95

The Vida Rica Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Macau

品酒消闲新境界 Raising the bar 《精华》发掘澳门泡吧圣地 Essential Macau discovers Macau’s best bars 文/by EDWINA LAU

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Essential BARS

Wing Lei Bar at Wynn Palace Cotai

作

为亚洲娱乐之都，澳门为游客提供众多一流的鸡尾酒吧，它们是您和商务拍档或至亲好友在晚上畅饮共聚的圣地。位于澳门文华东方酒店的御苑酒廊是一家不可多得的时尚酒吧，大理石、水晶和镀铬设计以及令人震撼的双层高大玻璃窗，打造出新潮的聚会热点，还可以在此欣赏澳门天际线勾勒出的无敌夜景。这里是您进行商务会谈和休闲聚会的最佳场所。御苑酒廊经常邀请来自世界各地的客席调酒师现场调酒，让宾客沉醉的不但有款式繁多的经典和现代风格鸡尾酒，还有品种丰富的葡萄酒和香槟酒。特色鸡尾酒包括：富贵鸡尾酒——以鲜榨新鲜的薄荷和青柠檬加蔗糖，用 Pyrat 朗姆酒、加勒比黑朗姆加碎冰块摇匀混和香槟调制而成；荔枝马提尼——这款备受热捧的马提尼是用荔枝果粒混合酒吧自制的苹果伏特加、白葡萄酒调制而成，还配有一片新鲜柠檬。在永利宫的永利吧则时尚而瑰丽，这里闪烁着一盏璀璨的 18 世纪水晶吊灯，瞩目吸睛，此外欧陆镜面饰墙，墙上各式各样的亚宝石熠熠生辉，为酒吧增添迷人的光芒，营造出一处典雅的夜晚欢聚休闲胜地。永利吧除了提供 50 款由永利皇宫专业品

ementing its place as the entertainment capital of Asia, Macau offers visitors a top-notch selection of cocktail bars, perfect for beginning or ending an evening in the enclave. With its chic interior of marble, crystal and chrome and double-height windows offering sweeping vistas of the Macau skyline, the Vida Rica Bar, located at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Macau, is a stylish bar perfect for both business meetings and leisure gatherings. The Vida Rica Bar often hosts guest mixologists from around the world and prides itself on a diverse cocktail list of classic and contemporary libations and an extensive cellar of wines and champagnes. Signature cocktails include The Millionaire’s Mojito – a refreshing mix of mint, lime and cane sugar shaken with Pyrat rum, Caribbean premium dark rum and a splash of champagne; and the Litchi Martini – a potent blend of lychees and house-made vodka with green-apple infusion mixed with white wine and a touch of fresh lemon. At Wing Lei Bar at Wynn Palace, a stunning 18th century rock crystal chandelier takes centre stage, while mirrored walls embedded with 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 97

Essential BARS

The Whisky Bar at StarWorld Hotel

茶师精心设计的茶品佳饮外，还有专业调酒师悉心调制多款创新鸡尾酒，宾客可以搭配各式亚洲佐饮小吃享用这些灵感佳酿。星际酒店的品味吧，一向都是澳门受热捧的聚会胜地之一，宾客可在此品味优质的单一麦芽威士忌和上佳的雪茄。位于澳门半岛星际酒店 16 楼的品味吧，拥有宽大的露天平台雅座，让您在凉爽的春秋季能够

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semi-precious stones add to the glamor of this chic space, perfectly placed for pre or post dinner drinks. Built upon the foundations of Wing Lei Palace’s 50 specialty teas, Wing Lei Bar’s expert mixologists have created an inspired list of innovative cocktails for guests to enjoy alongside a selection of Asian bar snacks. The Whisky Bar at StarWorld Hotel has long been a Macau favourite meeting place

in which to enjoy a premium single malt and a cigar. Located on the 16th floor of the StarWorld Hotel on the Macau Peninsula, the venue features a large terrace, popular in the cool months of spring and autumn. As the name suggests, the bar specialises in whisky with some 100 fine and rare labels on its list. The bar often features live performances from guest bands and DJs.

Essential BARS

While the Scottish themed décor might be a little twee, the extensive list of over 400 fine and rare whiskies is very serious. Located at Galaxy Macau, The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge is the first and the only fine whisky bar in Asia that features Scottish distillery Macallan as its theme and signature whisky, carrying some of the brand’s rarest labels. If it’s your first experience of Macallans, try the tasting flight The Fine Oaks Through Time, featuring five single malts aged in oak barrels for between 12 and 25 years. 쐽

The Macallan Bar at Galaxy Macau

在星空下与伴侣轻谈浅酌，尽享醉人夜色。品味吧是家威士忌主题酒吧，酒单上提供约 100 个高级、稀有品牌供客选择。酒吧经常有现场乐队演奏献唱，或 DJ 献播至潮音乐。麦卡伦威士忌吧的苏格兰主题设计可能有点流于表面装饰，但超过 400 种顶级麦芽威士忌乃至稀世佳酿珍藏，则放眼亚洲无出其右。位于「澳門銀河」的麦卡伦威士忌

吧是全亚洲第一、也是唯一一间以酿酒厂麦卡伦为主题的高级威士忌酒吧，专门呈献麦卡伦自家酒厂出品的著名、特色威士忌，甚至连品牌的稀缺珍罕品种亦可提供。如果您是初次品尝麦卡伦威士忌，可以品鉴 “The Fine Oaks Through Time”系列，包括五款分别在橡木桶中陈酿十二年至二十五年的单一麦芽威士忌。 쐽

The Macallan Bar at Galaxy Macau

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 99

Essential ART

艺术和历史的完美结合 Art and history 慧纳香槟邀请国际知名雕塑家乔玛 · 普林萨为品牌创作艺术作品，再次向品牌独特的文化、历史致敬 Maison Ruinart invites the sculptor Jaume Plensa for another tribute to the legacy of the house 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

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Essential ART

慧

纳香槟（Maison Ruinart）创立于 1729 年，是世界上最古老的香槟品牌。自 1896 年起，品牌每年都会委托一位艺术家打造彰显品牌历史的艺术作品，今年也不例外。今年，慧纳香槟邀请西班牙雕塑家乔玛· 普林萨（Jaume Plensa）打造一件雕塑作品，传达 Dom Thierry Ruinart 的理念、文化及其遗留下来的多语种写作文本。Dom Thierry Ruinart 是品牌创始人 Nicolas Ruinart 的叔父，也是位本笃会神父，他独具慧眼预见到了香槟区的气泡酒的生产和经销具有巨大潜力。雕塑作品运用了各种语言的共通元素，如源自 8 种不同语种的符号和字母，将于 2017 年全年在各地的艺术节上展出。除了这件雕塑作品外，乔玛 ·普林萨还特别为限量版慧纳 Ruinart Blanc de Blancs（20 支）设计了全新包装礼盒。透过镂空礼盒，光线可以射进酒瓶，借此歌颂香槟区的传奇葡萄品种霞多丽白葡萄的耀眼光芒。 쐽

ounded in 1729, Maison Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house in the world, and every year since 1896, it has commissioned an artist to create an artwork relating to its history. This year was no exception. The maison invited the Catalan sculptor Jaume Plensa to create a piece that would convey the philosophy, culture and multilingual texts of Dom Thierry Ruinart, a Benedictine monk and uncle of the house’s founder, Nicolas Ruinart, who foresaw the huge potential of the production and distribution of the sparkling wine that originated from Champagne. The result is a sculpture that will be displayed in countless art fairs around the world throughout 2017, comprising universal elements of language, such as signs and letters, originating from eight different alphabets. Alongside the piece, Jaume Plensa also developed a new box for the limited edition (20 units) of the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, whose frame lets the light through to the bottle, a tribute to the radiant shine of Chardonnay, the legendary grape of the Champagne region. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 101

Essential CUISINES

应时而食 Health Preservation in Different Seasons 新濠天地誉珑轩主理名厨谭国锋结合传统中式草药理论与应季食材，创造完美春令餐单 Award-winning Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon at City of Dreams combines the wisdom of Traditional Chinese herbology with seasonal ingredients to create the perfect spring menu 文/by EDWINA LAU

中

国文化认为，我们的身体健康状况与季节变换息息相关。因此，在烹饪中使用应季食材和中式草药，是维持身心康健最重要的一环。感谢我们祖先们长久以来的尝试和生活经验，利用四季不同食材而达致养生之功效，成为了粤菜的一大基石，而澳门新濠天地誉珑轩主理名厨谭国锋亦深受这个理念影响。 “我的专长是粤菜，而我们在誉珑轩遵循着使用天然新鲜应季食材的传统烹饪技巧。我们从来不会在菜式中添加太多花巧元素，因为我们希望保持食材原味。用中式草药并非我们的目标，我们只是自然而然地遵循粤菜 ‘应季养生 ’的饮食哲学。根据这个

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理念，我们认为在菜式中结合中式草药不但能为宾客带来美味菜肴，同时也能提供最健康的选择。” 为了呈献最佳养生功效，主厨谭国锋及其烹饪团队坚持选用来自世界各地知名生产商的最上等原料。谭国锋认为春天是一个非常关键的季节——春季万物生发，正是重新焕发全身系统的最佳时机，同时让身体做好准备，应对即将到来的炎夏。 “农历新年丰富的盛宴会为消化系统带来一定压力，而我的建议是在春季精简饮食。” 春夏之交，气候变得潮湿，食用祛湿的瓜类对胃部十分有益，而主厨谭国锋就尤为推荐老黄瓜，“老黄瓜可以入汤，还能有助

n Chinese culture, it is believed that our health and wellbeing are directly linked to the changing seasons. As such, the importance of using seasonal produce and Chinese herbs in cooking is paramount to maintaining a healthy body and mind. Thanks to our predecessors’ long-time practices and life experiences, utilizing the health benefits of different produce throughout the four seasons is a cornerstone of Cantonese cuisine. This idea deeply influences Chef Tam Kwok Fung, Executive Chef at the two Michelin-starred restaurant Jade Dragon at City of Dreams Macau.

Essential CUISINES

Chef Tam Kwok Fung at Jade Dragon at City of Dream Macau 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 103

Essential CUISINES

清除体内湿热，有益肠胃，十分适宜春夏食用，”他说道。誉珑轩会因应季节定期推出新菜式。今年 4、5 月的新菜品包括脆皮走地鸡配芒果及柚肉，以及软煮西红柿配蛋白、水牛芝士及鱼子酱。“我非常推荐石斛扁豆老黄瓜薏米炖猪腱，这是非常养生的一道春季靓汤，”谭国锋说道。作为一个世界知名的旅游目的地，澳门吸引着来自全球的游客，而许多人亦会趁此机会前来米其林星级餐厅誉珑轩用膳。谭国锋表示很享受这个为国际游客送上佳肴的机会。 “尽管誉珑轩遵循传统粤菜烹饪技巧，但菜单上有 10%到 15%的菜式会使用来自中国不同省份的原料和调味技巧，因为我们不但有来自港澳的宾客，还有来自世界各地的食客，所以我们亦需要考虑他们的口味。” 誉珑轩每一道菜的每个元素，包括如何摆盘，都经过精心考量。尽管我们偏向于使用传统烹饪技法，但菜式的摆盘却采用现代风格。每一道都用西式摆盘而不是传统中式的家庭式上菜方式。如此一来，我们能够确保每一道菜都能够以最理想的温度送到宾客面前，而我们亦能控制每个元素的具体比例，保证菜式拥有完美的口味搭配。” 当然，米其林星级的内涵亦不止于食物本身，而为宾客带来美好体验同样是誉珑轩关注的重点。尽管粤菜风格以分享为重，但誉珑轩亦细心照顾到单人用餐的食客。“时令菜单包括了可以做成一人份的菜式，同时亦是一到两位宾客享用的最佳分量，”谭国锋解释道。茶是中式饮馔一个不可或缺的元素，而誉珑轩亦会为每位宾客奉上一杯温热的节令好茶。 104 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

“I specialise in Cantonese cuisine and at Jade Dragon we follow the traditional techniques of using natural, fresh seasonal produce to cook with. We never add too many fancy elements into our cooking because we want to keep the original taste of the produce. Using Chinese herbs is not an intentional objective; we just naturally follow the philosophy of Cantonese cuisine, which is “health preservation in different seasons”. Based on this idea, we believe by incorporating Chinese herbology into our dishes we are offering guests not only tasty but also the healthiest options.”

In order to bring out the best health effects, Chef Tam and the culinary team insist on using only the very best ingredients procured from renowned producers around the world. He considers spring a crucial season – a time to refresh the entire system and prepare the body for the forthcoming hot summer. “Following the feast of hearty dishes consumed over Chinese New Year, that can put pressure on our digestive systems, my advice is to lighten the diet in spring. As spring turns to summer and the weather becomes damp, eating cucurbits is highly recommended as it is very good for the stomach and known to clear damp from the body. In particular, Chef Tam advocates yellow squash. “Yellow squash can be used in soup; it helps to reduce internal heat and clear damp. It is good for the stomach and really suitable for spring and summer,” he opines. In respect of the seasons Jade Dragon regularly introduces new dishes to its menu. This April and May new dishes include Crispy Free Range Chicken with Mango and Pomelo and Braised Tomato with Egg White and Buffalo Cheese topped with Caviar. “I would highly recommend the Double-boiled Dendrobium and Hyacinth Bean, Barley and Yellow Squash Soup with Pork, which has amazing health properties for the spring season,” Chef Tam says. As a world-class, destination, Macau attracts tourist from around the globe, many of whom take the opportunity to dine at the renowned, Michelin-starred Jade Dragon restaurant. Chef Tam relishes the opportunity to serve these international guests.

Essential CUISINES “如果我只能选择一种茶搭配食物，那肯定是白牡丹茶，”谭国锋说道，“白牡丹茶十分柔和，不会与菜肴的味道相冲突。台湾乌龙亦是另一种口感柔和的选择，与粤式午餐菜式相得益彰。茉莉或类似的味道强烈的茶类会在口腔内留下明显的香气，可能会掩盖食物的味道，从而破坏一道菜式的整体平衡，因而这些茶宜留待餐后再饮。”誉珑轩专门设有侍茶师，根据餐厅丰富的珍贵名茶选择，为宾客提供更多建议。誉珑轩呈献了主厨谭国锋以最新鲜时令食材和极上珍馐创造的精致饮馔杰作。华丽装潢以及细意殷勤的贴心服务，让誉珑轩成为澳门美馔标杆，不断获得其国际化宾客的交口称赞。除了米其林两星及福布斯五星荣誉外，今年，誉珑轩亦首次入围有 “美馔奥斯卡 ”之称的 “亚洲 50 佳食府 ”榜单，而全澳门仅两间餐厅榜上有名。 “能够获得《米其林香港澳门指南》、《福布斯旅游指南》等国际美馔奖项认可，我深感荣幸，而首次上榜‘亚洲 50 佳食府’名单，亦让我非常兴奋。当然，食物质素是誉珑轩收获众多荣誉的主要原因。但每个奖项都有其标准和评价体系，有些侧重菜肴质素和风味，对食材有着严格要求；有些则会考虑包括装潢设计、环境、服务和其他细节等因素在内的整间餐厅之体验；有些评价重点则在于是否有独特的饮馔体验。誉珑轩大获成功的秘密，就在于倾心构造上述所有元素：为宾客带来顶级美食、以客为先的服务理念以及我们的先锋创意精神，”谭国锋总结道。 쐽

“Even though Jade Dragon follows the traditional skills of Cantonese cuisine, around 10 to 15 per cent of the dishes on our menus use ingredients and seasoning skills from different provinces in China, because our guests come not only from Macau and Hong Kong but also from around the world, so we need to consider their tastes as well. Every element of each dish served at Jade Dragon is very carefully considered including the way in which the dish is presented. While we favour traditional methods in cooking, our presentation is contemporary. By using a Western style of plating each dish rather than the Chinese family style of presentation, we are able to ensure each dish is served at its optimum temperature and we are able to control the portions size of every element to ensure perfect flavour profiles.” Of course Michelin stars are about more than just food and at Jade Dragon much consideration is given to the customer experience. While Cantonese cuisine is generally made for sharing, at Jade Dragon the single diner is also taken care of. “The seasonal menu features dishes that can be ordered as a single serving and also sets perfectly portioned for one or two diners,” explains Chef Tam. Tea is an indispensable element of Chinese fine dining and guests at Jade Dragon are welcomed with warm cup of seasonal brew.

“If I had to choose just one tea to pair with a meal it would be White Peony,” says Chef Tam, continuing, “Because it is mild, it does not conflict with the flavours of the dish. Taiwanese Oolong tea is another mild choice that also pairs well with a Cantonese lunch. Jasmine or similarly strong flavoured teas can destroy the balance of a dish as their strong aromas last in the mouth and can smother the taste of the food, so these teas are best to drink after a meal.” At Jade Dragon a tea sommelier is on hand to offer further advice on the extensive list of fine and rare teas. Jade Dragon showcases exquisite culinary masterpieces created by Chef Tam Kwok Fung using the freshest seasonal ingredients and delicacies. Combined with spectacular interior design and superlative personalised service, Jade Dragon sets the benchmark for fine dining in Macau garnering high praise from its international audience. This year, Jade Dragon earned a place for the first time in the “Oscars of the culinary world” Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, building on its two Michelin-stars and Forbes FiveStar resume. It is one of only two Macau restaurants to be is listed. “It is a great honour to be recognised by these respected international culinary awards, including the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau, Forbes Travel Guide and, for the first time, to be listed in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants… I am very excited. The primary reason to be awarded is the quality of the food. But each award has its own standard and specification, some attach importance to the quality and flavour of the dishes with strict standards for produce; some consider the whole restaurant, including the interior design, environment, service and other details; some focus on unique dining experiences. The secret to Jade Dragon’s success is the consideration given to all of these elements; quality food, a customerfocussed concept and our creative spirit,” concludes Chef Tam. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 105

Essential NEWS

The Most Delicious Korean Performance Korean creative performance Bibap hits Macau at The Parisian Theatre at The Parisian Macau on 9-23 April. Created to celebrate the national dish bibimbap and promote Korean food culture worldwide, Bibap is a comedy that deliciously blends martial arts, street dance and hip-hop. Audiences can indulge in the amusing story of master chefs, Green Chef and Red Chef at the ‘Bibap’ restaurant and enjoy interacting with the performers, handling and tasting the food. The audience plays a role in determining how the show progresses, so no two evenings are ever the same.

最美味的韩国表演 4 月 9 至 23 日期间，澳门巴黎人酒店的巴黎人剧场将精彩呈现韩国创意演出《拌饭秀》。《拌饭秀》是一套以韩国代表食物拌饭为主题而创作的音乐喜剧，糅合了武术、街舞和 hip-hop 元素，期待将韩国饮食文化推广到世界。《拌饭秀》讲述了两位《Bibap》餐厅的大厨 — — Green Chef 及 Red Chef 之间发生的生动有趣的故事，观众在享受表演的同时，还能有表演者互动，烹饪和品尝美食。观众在演出过程中担当重要角色，主导着演出节奏，因此每晚表演都会呈现不一样的精彩。

SJM Recruitment Centre Officially Opens

澳博招聘中心正式开幕澳门博彩股份有限公司（简称澳博）近期为「澳博招聘中心」举行了开幕典礼，准备为即将开业的回力酒店和计划于 2018 年开幕的上葡京进行大规模招聘。两个项目将提供逾万个职位。招聘中心占地 5000 平方英尺（超过 460 平方米），配备多个会议室及完善电脑设备，让求职人士轻松方便地搜寻及申请职位。澳博招聘中心的开幕典礼由澳门特别行政区政府劳工事务局副局长陈元童、博彩监察协调局副局长梁文润、旅游局副局长程卫东、澳门生产力暨科技转移中心理事长孙家雄博士、澳博董事局主席苏树辉博士、澳博常务董事兼行政总监梁安琪，以及澳博董事兼营运总裁吴志诚主持。主礼嘉宾在剪彩仪式后，参观了招聘中心，了解招聘流程。

106 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, S.A. (“SJM”) recently held the opening ceremony of its SJM Recruitment Centre (the “Centre”). in preparation for large-scale recruitment for its upcoming projects Hotel Jai Alai, due to open soon, and Grand Lisboa Palace, set to open in 2018. These two projects will create over 10,000 job vacancies. The Centre is approximately 5,000 square feet and equipped with meeting rooms as well as computer facilities to facilitate easy job application for recruits. The opening ceremony was officiated by Mr. Chan Un Tong, Deputy Director of the Labour Affairs Bureau of the Macau SAR Government, Mr. Leong Man Ion, Deputy Director of the Gaming Inspection and Coordination Bureau of the Macau SAR Government, Mr. Cheng Wai Tong, Deputy Director of the Macau Government Tourism Office, Dr. Shuen Ka Hung, DirectorGeneral of Macau Productivity and Technology Transfer Center, Dr. Ambrose So, Chairman of the Board of Directors of SJM, Ms. Angela Leong, Managing Director and Chief Administrative Officer of SJM, and Mr. Louis Ng, Director and Chief Operating Officer of SJM. After the ribbon cutting ceremony, the officiating guests were given a tour of the Centre for a deeper understanding of the recruitment process.

Essential NEWS

澳门励宫酒店隆重开幕坐落于澳门渔人码头的五星豪华酒店励宫酒店已于 2017 年 2 月隆重开幕。澳门特别行政区行政长官崔世安、澳门中联办副主任陈斯喜、立法会主席贺一诚、经济财政司司长梁维特、社会文化司司长谭俊荣等主持了开幕龙狮点睛仪式。澳门励骏联席主席、执行董事兼行政总裁周锦辉表示：“作为澳门渔人码头重建计划的另一焦点，励宫酒店是三年内落成的第二间全新酒店。澳门素有’东方蒙地卡罗’之称，而励宫酒店仿照 18 世纪蒙地卡罗的建筑风格而建。我们的目的是积极支持和响应澳门特区政府建设世界旅游休闲中心的努力，促进澳门旅游业多元化发展。”

The Grand Opening of Legend Palace Hotel The latest 5-star hotel at Macau Fisherman’s Wharf-Legend Palace Hotel celebrated its grand opening February 2017. The ceremony was officiated by Mr. Chui Sai On, Chief Executive of Macau Special Administrative Region; Mr. Chen Si Xi, Vice Director of Liaison Office of the Central People’s Government; Mr. Ho Iat Seng, President of the Legislative Assembly; Mr. Lionel Leong Vai Tac, Secretary for Economy and Finance, Mr. Alexis Tam Chon Weng, Secretary for Social Affairs and Culture. Co-Chairman, Executive Director and Chief Executive Officer, Mr. David Chow, said, “As another focus of the Macau Fisherman's Wharf redevelopment project, Legend Palace is the second new hotel completed within three years. Macau is known as the "Monte Carlo of the Orient", and the five-star Deluxe Legend Palace is modelled after architectural styles of 18th century Monte Carlo. Our aim is to actively support the efforts of the Macau SAR Government to build a World Tourism and Leisure Centre and to promote the diversified tourism in Macau."

澳门银河展现时尚春色春回大地，澳门银河购物中心「时尚汇」化身鲜花怒放的春日花园。宾客们可在这暖暖春日里享受独一无二的购物体验，在花海中一览最新的时尚产品。「时尚汇」明珠大堂以超过 8000 多各色绣球花 — — 亚洲最受欢迎的本土鲜花之一——打造成了一片花的海洋，粉色的鲜花、繁茂的绿叶和翠绿的草地，以及数不清的各类鲜花主题装饰，定会让你叹为观止。此外，宾客还有机会获得由澳门 Giger Talent 的本地艺术家手工绘制的个性帆布手提袋。以上皆为「时尚汇」携手 DFS 环球免税店独家推出的春日推广活动。

Celebrate Beautiful Spring at Galaxy Macau This spring, The Promenade Shops at Galaxy Macau transforms into a paradise of blossoms. Guests can indulge in a unique shopping experience, browsing the latest fashions among beautiful flowers. The Pearl Lobby at The Promenade Shops is decorated with more than 8,000 colourful hydrangeas – one of Asia’s most popular native flowers – forming a sea of blossoming, authentic pink flowers nestled alongside lush greenery and many other floral-themed decorations, sure to take your breath away. Better yet, guests have the chance to carry away a free, hand-painted floral tote bag, personalised by Local Macau artists Ginger Talent! It’s all part of an exclusive collaboration between The Promenade Shops and DFS.

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

108 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Essential RETAIL

Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场

Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场 Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Jaquet Droz 雅克·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月- 5月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

110 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 111

Enjoy Your Dream Investment Our network of partners and professionals allow us to receive you anywhere the properties are located saving time and costs. The turn-key concept include visits to the properties and all necessary procedures for acquisition and registration of your investment. Enjoy Europe to the full with a Golden Visa investment; finally acquire that paradise villa in Thailand; or clinch that once in a generation deal in vibrant, business-centric Hong Kong. Investments are mirroring the increasing reach of globalisation. Which is why a reliable, proven partner-mentor should be an essential part of your investment strategy. Every step of the way. We think investments, with benefits.

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