ESSENTIAL MACAU. FEBRUARY / MARCH 2018

2018年 2-3月第 42期 No. 42 February - March 2018

澳门定制 西装品牌 Sartor Lab

恭贺新禧 Chinese New Year 奢侈品牌发布特别系列 Special collections from luxury brands

绅士风范 Be a gentleman

爱彼表 Audemars Piguet 制表大师 Master of watchmaking

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50 Mainland China RMB 50

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EDWINA LIU EDITOR

喜庆停不了

CONTINUOUS CELEBRATIONS

欢迎阅读最新一期《澳门精华》，《澳门精华》 杂志社全体同仁恭祝大家新年快乐、身体健康、 大吉大利！ 澳门已蓄势待发，准备好迎接狗年的到来，年节 时期是到访澳门的最佳时机。为迎贺新春佳 节，本澳的街道和广场上点缀着色彩缤纷的装 饰，全城喜气洋洋。把自己装扮得亮丽悦目地去 迎春，预示着来年吉庆好运，所以人们争相赠与 家人特别的礼物。但对于送什么礼物缺乏灵感？ 《澳门精华》将为您推介一些最佳奢侈品牌推 出的特别贺年系列。美食是节庆活动必不可少 的，食物对农历新年来说非常重要。中菜大厨钱 锦华精心设计了一系列美味佳肴，而澳门银河娱 乐集团集聚多家餐厅打造出美食天堂，提供琳琅 满目的各式美馔，是佳节用餐的最佳去处。 除了春节节庆活动外，这两个月内值得期 待的还有由当今国际乐坛炙手可热的印度西 塔 琴 （ Sitar） 天 后 安 诺 舒 卡 ·尚 卡 （ Anoushka Shankar） 在 澳 门 文 化 中 心 献 上 的 一 场 风 情 独 特、激情四射的炫技音乐会。此外，世界知名的 美 国 摄 影 师 亚 历 克 斯 ·普 拉 格 （Alex Prager）在 邻埠香港举行摄影作品展，展出一系精彩佳 作，也不容错过。 最后，在今期杂志你也可以读到对澳门时尚业贡 献 良 多 的 时 尚 达 人 的 专 访 。 罗 伟 杰 （ Nuno Lopes）是第一位亮相伦敦时装周展示自己的设计 系列的本地时装设计师，他将和我们分享风光璀 璨 的 T台 背 后 不 为 人 知 的 故 事 ， 以 及 在 国 外 追逐梦想的经历。 而就在澳门，由曹家威和蔡桂清创立的裁缝 店 Sartor Lab， 也 致 力 于 通 过 高 级 西 装 定 制 服 务 和一系列高品质产品，向本地人推广绅士的生 活方式。 我们希望您享受您的澳门之旅，恭喜发财！

Welcome to the latest issue of Essential Macau – We wish you a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year!

As the city prepares to celebrate the incoming Year of the Dog, there is no better time to visit the city. In preparation for the festivities, the streets and squares are adorned with brightly coloured decorations and the air is abuzz with excitement.

A good look is always an auspicious start to the year so a special gift for the family is needed. For those devoid of inspiration, Essential Macau presents the best luxury brands to turn to for that special Chinese New Year collection. The cornerstone of the festivities, food is important to Chinese New Year. Chef Chin Kam Wa, a master chef of Chinese cuisine, has designed a special menu with an array of delicious dishes. For more dining options, there is no better place than the gourmet paradise of the properties under the wing of Galaxy Macau Entertainment.

As well as the Chinese New Year celebrations, during these two months global sitar sensation Anoushka Shankar steps onto the local stage for an evening of exotic performance and musical skills. In addition, world famous photographer Alex Prager showcases her fabulous works in the neighbouring city of Hong Kong.

Finally, in this issue you can also find features about the elites who make big contributions to Macau fashion. Nuno M. Lopes de Oliveira, the first local fashion designer to showcase his collection in London Fashion Week, shares the story behind the runway glitz and the experience of chasing his dream in a foreign country.

And just in town, Sartor Lab, a tailoring shop founded by Kade Chou and Victor Choi, commit to promoting a gentlemen’s lifestyle to local people with their haute couture suit-making service and a potpourri of high quality products.

We hope you enjoy your visit to Macau - and Kung Hei Fat Choi!

2017 8-9 39 No. 39 August - September 2017

No. 80 June / July 2017

BASTARDINHO The temporary end of a unique wine O fim provisório de um vinho especial

Summer mood The city's best swimming pools

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER The rebirth of an icon O renascer de um clássico

REAL ESTATE LUXURY BOUTIQUE Quintela e Penalva celebrates 13 years 13 anos de Quintela e Penalva

Clube Militar de Macau Historical paradise

ESSENTIAL Luxury, style, business, people, property, places and more Luxo, estilo, moda, personalidades, imobiliário, negócios e muito mais!

Panthère de Cartier

June-July 2017 €4.00

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50

Returning to life

Mainland China RMB 50

专题特写 FEATURES 12

名厨 Chef 大仓酒店28楼行政总厨钱锦华打造特别餐单迎接新春

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SPECIAL MENU BY CHEF CHIN KAM WAH OF OKURA 28/F

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设计 Design 亚洲首个世界级奢侈水晶品牌路卡瑞司

LUCARIS, ASIA’S FIRST WORLD-CLASS LUXURY CRYSTAL BRAND

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设计师 Designer 《澳门精华》杂志对话青年杰出设计师罗伟杰

ESSENTIAL MACAU SPEAKS TO NUNO LOPES DE OLIVEIRA, A YOUNG PROMISE IN FASHION DESIGN

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定制 Tailoring Sartor Lab裁缝店，传播绅士生活文化

SARTOR LAB, SPREADING THE GENTLEMAN’S LIFESTYLE CULTURE

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摄影 Photography 香港立木画廊举办亚历克斯·普拉格摄影展

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ALEX PRAGER PRESENTS AN EXHIBITION AT THE LEHMANN MAUPIN GALLERY IN HONG KONG

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奢侈品 Luxury 喜迎农历新年，一众奢侈品牌推出特别系列产品

INSPIRED BY THE CHINESE NEW YEAR, SOME LUXURY BRANDS LAUNCH SPECIAL COLLECTIONS

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访谈 Interview 专访奥利维尔·奥德马斯，爱彼制表传统的守护人

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH OLIVIER AUDEMARS, A GUARDIAN PIGUET

OF THE WATCHMAKING TRADITIONS OF AUDEMARS

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珠宝 Jewellery

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博德尔斯，家族珠宝企业的成功故事

BOODLES, A FAMILY-OWNED JEWELLERY COMPANY THAT

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HAS BECOME A SUCCESS STORY

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品牌 Brand 穆尔鲍尔，与众不同的制帽品牌

MÜHLBAUER, A VERY PECULIAR HOUSE OF HATS

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旅游 Travel 索隐秘在高山间的天堂：盐之花

DISCOVER FLOCONS DE SEL, A PARADISE IN THE MOUNTAINS

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40 6 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

精华资讯 ESSENTIALS

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58 74 60

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名车 Car 名车典范、艺术杰作之阿尔法罗密欧

ALFA ROMEO 4C SPIDER, A WORK OF ART

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名表 Watches 宝格丽携手玛莎拉蒂推出腕表，彰显意大 利卓绝工艺

OCTO MASERATI BY BULGARI, THE BEST OF ITALIAN SAVOIR-FAIRE

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时尚 Fashion 有 型有格

FORM FOLLOWS FASHION

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潮流 Trends 窥探今年大热色彩：紫外光色

ULTRA-VIOLET, THE COLOUR OF THE YEAR

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香氛 Perfume 全球最古老的蜡烛品牌进军香水界

A NEW STEP FOR CIRETRUDON, THE OLDEST CANDLE HOUSE IN THE WORLD

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美妆 Beauty 精华奢侈美妆品

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

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时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

106

新闻速递 Hotel News 酒店业新闻集锦

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUND-UP

108

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购物指南 Shopping 澳门奢侈购物精华指南

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LUXURY SHOPPING IN MACAU 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 7

Follow us on Instagram @essentialmacau | Read the digital version on www.issuu.com/essentialmacau

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com

上衣、连身裙 Top and dress: Luis Carvalho 鞋 Shoes: 斯特拉·麦卡特尼 Stella McCartney

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: ANA VIEGAS 模特 MODEL: MADELENE NORD (ELITE LISBON)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以 本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄 时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

广告营运部 Advertising sales 澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 pub@essentialmacau.com Bina Gupta (香港 Hong Kong) (手机 cell phone) +852 2868 1555 binagupta@bg-bc.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以 下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区： 港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)； 世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Carlos Torres, Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Cristina Alcock, Edwina Liu, Fernando Caetano, Guilherme Marques, Luís Antunes 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Ana Viegas 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声 校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕 澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

+853 2833 1258 合资企业

左：8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA －行政总厨Antimo Merone，中：丽轩 －总厨傅文彪，右：风味居 －总厨陈植强 L: 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA - Executive Chef Antimo Merone, M: Lai Heen - Chef Bill Fu, R: Feng Wei Ju - Executive Chef Chan Chek Keong

星 光 闪耀 美食天 堂 Glittering Gourmet Paradise 一直 以 来，《米其林指南》 都 是餐饮 界 最 权 威 的 美 食 指 南 。 作 为 亚 洲 最 杰 出的 美馔圣殿—澳门星际酒 店 、「 澳 門 銀 河 TM」 及「 澳 門 百老 匯 TM」 在 最 新 一 期 的 《 米 其 林 指 南 香港 澳 门 2018》 中共取 获 23 项 殊 荣 The Michelin Guide has long been regarded as the world's foremost authorities on culinary merit. The best dining destinations in Asia - StarWorld Hotel, Galaxy MacauTM and Broadway MacauTM – have won a cumulative 23 recognitions in the prestigious Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2018

澳

门星际酒店的「风味居」，已经连续第 二年取获「米其林二星餐厅」殊荣。位 于「澳門銀河」综合度假城的「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」意 大 利 餐 厅 以 及 澳 门 丽 思 卡 尔 顿 酒 店 中 餐 厅 「 丽 轩 」， 均 荣 获 「 米 其 林 一星 餐 厅 」称 号 。除 了 米 其 林 星 级 餐 厅 外 ， 「澳 門 銀 河 」及 「澳 門 百 老 匯 」的 多 家 餐 厅 还获得「米其林餐盘」的殊荣，其中包括庭 园 意 大 利 餐 厅 、福 临 门 、名 家 、「山 里 」日 本料理餐厅、丽思咖啡厅、品味坊、福龙葡 国菜、皇冠小馆、加东和度小月等。

风味居

说到正宗的“辣”味，澳门星际酒店的米其 林二星餐厅「风味居」绝对是不二之选。餐厅 汇集四川、湖南两地的最佳地道美食及北方 10 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

手工面点。为了向食客呈现最正宗的湘川辣 味，餐厅只采用产于原产地的优质食材。 「风味居」中餐行政总厨陈植强入行 25 余 年 ，全 身 研 习 中 国 多 省 的 特 色 菜 式 ，积 累 了丰富的中国各地烹调经验。他和团队采用 最新鲜的食材，以最正宗的烹调方法，为食 客 献上最地道的湘川风味。餐厅招牌菜式， 包括荷香酱牛肋肉、红袍辣子鸡块、水煮飘 香 沸 腾 鱼 及 蒜 泥 白 肉 等 。透 过 开 放 式 厨 房 ， 宾客可以看到即点即做的各种面条和饺子 的制作过程，为餐厅的雅致环境增加了一丝 热火朝天的气氛。

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」是亚洲最著 名的意式餐厅，其创始人 Umberto BOMBANA

F

eng Wei Ju in StarWorld Hotel has been awarded 2 Michelin stars for the second year in a row. At Galaxy Macau, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA and Lai Heen in The Ritz-Carlton, Macau have received one Michelin star. In addition to the Michelin-starred restaurants, a number of Galaxy Macau and Broadway Macau eateries have been recognised with a Michelin Plate – take a bow Terrazza Italian Restaurant, Fook Lam Moon, Myung Ga, Yamazato, The Ritz Carlton Cafe, Temptations, Dragon Portuguese Cuisine, Wong Kun Sio Kung, Katong Corner and Du Hsiao Yueh.

FENG WEI JU When it comes to the best place for spicy food, 2 Michelin-starred restaurant Feng Wei Ju

Essential GOURMET 是意大利 Piedmontese Regional Enoteca Cavour 委任的“白松露世界大使”。 在 「 澳 門 銀 河 」，「 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」 行 政 总 厨 Antimo Merone 偕 同 其团队成功为餐厅赢得无数荣誉，其中连续 第三年获取“米其林一星餐厅”殊荣。 除 了 每 年 11 月 至 年 底 推 出 的 招 牌 阿 尔 巴 白 松 露 餐 单 外 ，餐 厅 还 为 食 客 奉 上 丰 富 多 样的精致意式美馔。 如果宾客在黑松露时令季（即日起至三月） 莅临就餐，餐厅自制意式细丝面配黄油、帕 玛森芝士及意大利新鲜黑松露定会让您的味 蕾倍感宠溺。意式细丝面（每日新鲜运来的意 大利面粉和日本鸡蛋制作）充分吸收了黑松 露、鸡汁和砵酒制作的酱汁，味道让人回味 再三。在把菜式呈献给宾客前，餐厅侍者会在 桌上现场刨黑松露，打造出落英缤纷的绝美 视觉效果，入口后更是沁入心脾，余味绵长。 餐厅中许多菜式都完美融合了亚洲食材 和意大利佐料，例如北海道帝王蟹、香煎扇 贝及夏日限量菜式——招牌羊排配焗烤甜椒 和茄子，都是最受饕客热捧的美味珍馐。 除 了 让 人 垂 涎 的 精 美 餐 单 外 ，「8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA」还供应各种高级美酒搭配 佳肴。餐厅亦被《米其林指南香港澳门 2018》 评为“供应优质餐酒的餐厅”。

丽轩

高级粤菜食府「丽轩」位于澳门丽思卡尔 顿酒店，带给人无与伦比的用餐体验。餐厅 的装潢洋溢中葡历史文化气息，其绝佳的位 置让宾客可以饱览澳门美景，为宾客呈现至 臻完美的用餐环境。 在总厨傅文彪的带领下， 「丽轩」已经连续 两年荣获「米其林一星餐厅」殊荣。餐厅供应 顶级粤式美馔，招牌菜式包括蜜烧西班牙黑 豚肉叉烧、脆米海皇焗金瓜，绝对悦目赏心。 「丽轩」梅菜王扣肉亦是餐厅的招牌菜式。 傅总厨用现代手法重新演绎这道经典的客家 菜式，用作扣肉的荷兰猪肉赋予菜式完美的 口感，搭配油炸过的干梅菜不会过于油腻，因 为烹饪过程中糖分挥发，上菜前再撒上一点 点糖，便成就这道宛如艺术品般的传统菜式。 「丽轩」视菜式的卖相与味道同等重要，以 高级西餐的创意出品方式呈献精美绝伦的粤 菜佳肴，款款如同艺术品。 最 后 ，以 餐 后 甜 品 为 完 美 的 一 餐 划 上 句 号 吧 。「丽 轩 」的 甜 品 餐 单 上 有 无 数 让 人 垂 涎三尺的广式甜品供宾客品尝。 쐽

澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店 －丽轩 The Ritz-Carlton, Macau - Lai Heen

澳门星际酒店 －风味居 StarWorld Hotel - Feng Wei Ju

in StarWorld Hotel is second to none. In this acclaimed restaurant diners can discover the best Chuan-Xiang cuisine from the regions of Hunan and Sichuan as well as the delicate handmade "al dente" noodles. In order to deliver an authentic spicy taste to diners the restaurant uses only the finest local ingredients.

With over 25 years of experience in the culinary industry, Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chek Keong has accumulated a wealth of experience in Chinese cuisine, devoting himself to the study of various local specialties across China’s many provinces. Chef Chan and his professional culinary team present a plethora of flavourful authentic dishes - including Beef Loin with Lotus Paste, Crispy Chicken Fillets, Boiled Mandarin Fish Fillets in Chili Oil and Pork Neck Meat with Hot Garlic Sauce.

A live, open noodle and dumpling show kitchen adds an exciting buzz to the restaurant’s ambience.

8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA Founded by Chef Umberto BOMBANA - a ‘Worldwide Ambassador of White Truffles’ as designated by the Cavour Regional Enoteca in Piedmont, home of the coveted fungus 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA is one of the most reputable Italian restaurants in Asia.

At 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA in Galaxy Macau, Executive Chef Antimo Merone and the professional culinary team have successfully led the restaurant to countless achievements, including a 1 Michelin star for the third year.

Alongside the signature Alba white truffle menu during November to the end of the year, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA serves an array of delicacies with Macau characteristics.

For guests who visit the restaurant during the black truffle season (from now until March) the homemade tagliolini, butter, parmesan, melanosporum black truffle will surely satiate the palate. The tagliolini - made with Italian flour and fresh Japanese eggs every day - absorbs a puree made of black truffle, chicken jus and port wine. Prior to serving to guests, staff will shave

the fresh melanosporum black truffle at the table, producing a beautiful effect, as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate.

In a perfect blending of Asian produce and Italian seasoning, other must-try dishes include Hokkaido King Crab, fennel emulsion, Amalfi Lemon, and River Beluga Caviar. Marinated and Serrated Scallop, cauliflower puree, mandarin as well as Summer limited dish Aveyron Lamb, bel pepper peperonata, and eggplant parmigiana also figure high on guests’ lists.

Enhancing the menu is a selection of fine wines. 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA is also recognised in Restaurants with Interesting Wine Lists in the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2018.

「澳門銀河」－8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Galaxy Macau - 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

LAI HEEN Lai Heen, the fine dining Cantonese restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Macau, is a breathtaking experience. From the stunning décor that pays homage to the city’s Chinese and Portuguese history to the sweeping views of Macau, the restaurant is perfection.

Helmed by Chef Bill Fu, Lai Heen has been awarded 1Michelin star for the second year in a row. The menu showcases Chinese cuisine at its finest, with dishes such as Char-Grilled Barbecued Ibérico Pork, Baked Crispy Fried Rice with Seafood in Baby Pumpkin as delightful to the eye as they are to the tongue.

Chef ’s Special Braised Pork Belly with Preserved Vegetable is the signature dish of the restaurant. Chef Fu has reconstructed this classic homemade dish with a modern twist using pork belly from Holland, which gives the dish a perfect balance without being excessively heavy to pair with dehydrated deep-fried preserved vegetables (mui choi), finishing with a dash of sugar as some of the sweetness evaporates in the process.

Presentation is as important as the taste of a dish, of course, and Lai Heen presents exquisite Cantonese dishes with the same creativity with which a Western plate is presented.

And to finish off the meal? The dessert menu offers an endless array of traditional mouthwatering Cantonese sweet treats! 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 11

Essential CHEF

大师 级 贺 年餐 单 Celebration menu of Master Chef Chin 春节是中华民族最期待最隆重的节日，是中国人阖家团聚、饮宴作乐的节日。 为迎接 农 历狗年的到来，大仓酒 店 28 楼 行 政 总 厨 钱 锦 华 创 作 了 特 别餐 单 ， 以寓意吉祥 的 美 味 佳 肴 迎 接 新 春 Chinese New Year is the most eagerly anticipated festival of the year for Chinese people. It is a time for everybody to reunite with family and enjoy a big feast. As Hotel Okura prepares to welcome the brand new Year of the Dog, Executive Chef Chin Kam Wah of 28/F has created a special menu brim-full of auspicious delicacies 文/by EDWINA LIU

钱

锦华师傅于 1979 年在香港入行。当时 亚 洲 经 济 低 迷 ，很 多 人 找 不 到 工 作 ， 做 厨 师 是 很 多 人 的 梦 想 。钱 锦 华 刚 一 开 始 第一份厨房工作，便立即爱上了厨师这份工 作，并认定这将是自己的终身事业，在师傅 的指导下，他逐渐精进自己的烹饪技巧。 “我从师傅那里学到的最重要的东西就是 ‘厨 德 ’，也 就 尊 重 他 人 。首 先 ，我 们 要 尊 重 顾客，明白‘顾客至上’非常重要。其次，我们 要 尊 重 同 事 ；一 间 好 的 餐 厅 没 有 团 结 的 厨 师 团 队 就 不 会 成 功 。”钱 师 傅 说 。“我 也 一 直 如此教导自己的徒弟。” 过 去 40 多 年 间 ，钱 师 傅 遇 到 过 不 少 不 友 好的客人，但时刻谨记“厨德”，真心诚意地对 待客人。“有位客人我终生难忘，他点了蒸鱼。 大 家 都 知 道 ，鱼 在 蒸 的 过 程 中 尺 寸 会 变 小 。

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hef Chin started his cooking journey in 1979 in Hong Kong, during the Asian depression. There were not enough jobs for people, and working in a kitchen was the dream of many. Once Chin did land work in a kitchen he was immediately hooked on cooking and knew that this would be his lifelong career, and under his mentors’ guidance he gradually perfected his cooking skills.

“The most important thing I learned from my mentors was ‘cooking morality’. What is called ‘cooking morality’ is respect for others.

Firstly, we need to respect our guests and understand that ‘guests first’ is very important.

Then, we need to respect our colleagues; a good restaurant can’t [be successful] without a united culinary team.” Chef Chin says. “This is what I always teach my apprentices.”

12 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 13

Essential CHEF

把 鱼 端 上 桌 后 ，他 坚 称 我 们 偷 走 了 部 分 鱼 肉！尽管投诉很不合理，但我们作为厨师也 有义务向客人解释原因。于是我就把客人请 进厨房里，让他看看我们怎么蒸鱼。最后， 他被我们的真诚和热情感动了，我们也因此 成了好朋友，”钱师傅笑着说道。 如 今 ，技 艺 精 湛 ，经 验 丰 富 的 钱 师 傅 仍 然相信，学习才是提高自身的唯一方法。他 经常参加烹饪比赛，赢得过无数大奖。 “除了参加比赛外，我还为许多烹饪比赛 担任评委。在比赛期间，我们得到很多灵感。 参加比赛时，作为选手的压力会刺激我产生 新的想法。参赛经历还帮助我跳出舒适区， 提高不少。当评委时，我也能从参赛选手身 上学到很多东西。” 钱 师 傅 的 招 牌 菜 — — 夜 榄 美 人 鱼 ，就 诞 生于在上海举行的一次国际烹饪大赛上。中 国人喜欢赋予菜肴重要意义，因此鲈鱼含头 尾烹饪，象征有头有尾。鱼片炸过之后，淋 上美味的榄菜汁，点缀上酥脆的榄仁。为了 提高口感，建议客人在吃鱼的同时，配上火 腿丝、青葱和煎蛋丝。 “我用了一个多月研究这道菜。如评委们 所说，做炸鱼不难，但做得无与伦比就很难 了 。所 以 ，我 下 了 很 多 功 夫 研 究 酱 汁 和 食 材，”他解释说。 钱师傅是澳门酒店餐饮业的开拓者。2004 年，他成为第一批被澳门外资度假村选聘的 著名厨师之一。2010 年，钱师傅希望在新环

Over the last 40 years, Chef Chin has encountered many unfriendly guests but always remembers the code of ‘cooking morality’, treating all of them with sincerity. “There was an unforgettable guest who ordered steamed fish.

As you know, the size of a fish after steaming will reduce. When we served the dish to him he insisted we had stolen part of the fish!

“As a chef, we have the responsibility to explain what happened to the fish even if the complaint is unreasonable. In this case, I invited this guest to visit our kitchen, and showed him how to cook steamed fish. In the end, he was moved by our sincerity and passion and we became good friends afterwards,” Chef Qin laughs.

Today, this sophisticated chef still believes studying is the only way to improve. He often competes in cooking competitions, winning countless awards.

“In addition to entering competitions, I judge many different competitions,” says the chef. “During the competitions, I can get many new inspirations. If I join a competition as a participant the pressure pushes me to come up with some new ideas. The experience can also help me jump out of my comfort zone and improve a lot. When I serve as a judge, I also learn a lot from the participants.”

The chef ’s signature dish - Sautéed Chinese Perch with Olive Seeds and Preserved Vegetables - was also born from a world-class competition in Shanghai. Chinese people attach great importance to the meaning of a dish thus this fish is served with the head and tail, signifying a good experience and a good ending. The sliced fish fillets are deep fried and drizzled with savory preserved vegetable sauce, finished with crunchy olive seeds. To enhance the texture, guests are advised to eat the fish with slices of ham, green onions and fried egg.

“I spent more than a month creating this dish. As the judges said, to make fried fish is not difficult; to make it unparalleled is more important. So I paid a lot of effort to the sauce and the ingredients,” he explains.

Chef Chin is a trailblazer of Macau resorts’ catering industry. In 2004, he was chosen as one of the first batch of famous chefs for the first resort opened with foreign capital in Macau. In 2010, Chef Chin wanted to improve himself in a new atmosphere thus he joined Hotel Okura Macau. He was originally hired for its MICE and wedding dining but later the hotel realised that they should let more people know how good the food of this talented chef was, moving him to the helm of the hotel’s 28/F Chinese restaurant. 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 15

境中提升自己，因此加入了澳门大仓酒店。 开始大仓酒店让他负责澳门会展宴会和婚 宴 ，但 后 来 意 识 到 应 该 让 更 多 的 人 了 解 和 享 受 他 的 天 才 烹 技 和 美 食 ，于 是 让 他 主 理 酒店 28 楼中餐厅。 “持 续 创 新 ”是 钱 师 傅 的 烹 饪 理 念 。除 了 参加比赛外，为了能够在每季设计推出全新 菜单，他还常去本地市场甄选时令食材。为 了 庆 贺 新 年 ，钱 师 傅 和 他 的 团 队 设 计 了 特 别 菜 单 。“ 春 节 的 主 要 元 素 是 吉 祥 ，” 他 说 。 “所有菜肴的名字都要有吉祥的寓意。”

钱师傅创制的菜式可以用创意烹艺和 雅 致 来 形 容 。他 用 各 种 赏 心 悦 目 、精 致 美 味 的 点 心 挑 起 宾 客 的 食 欲 ，例 如 富 贵 金 鱼 饺，就包含了新一年所有宾客的美好愿望： 象 征 着 富 贵 有 余 ，还 有 各 种 可 爱 的 包 点 预 示 着 新 年 好 兆 头 ，如 幸 福 甜 蜜 的 奶 黄 包 和 冬菇包等。 钱 师 傅 在 菜 式 上 加 入 了 许 多 小 细 节 ，以 彰显其独一无二的特色，如四色虾饺。“我们 使用了四种蔬果汁；如绿色的菠菜汁、橙色 的 胡 萝 卜 汁 以 及 粉 色 的 甜 菜 汁 ，让 饺 皮 更

加 赏 心 悦 目 。我 们 也 希 望 宾 客 的 未 来 如 同 饺子一样五彩缤纷！”他表示。 “除了面、发菜蠔豉外等传统菜肴外，我 真得很想展示更多创新菜式。比如说福禄虾 球 柚 子 汁 带 子 。我 用 带 子 — — 粤 语 中 有 富 贵带人来之说——和柚子汁及炸芋头结合。 这道菜将会带给宾客崭新的美食体验。” 其他值得推荐的菜式包括极品鱼翅燕 窝带子饺、云吞鸡汤及单点菜式，如三文鱼 捞 起 、蟹 粉 泡 溜 大 虾 球 、太 湖 明 珠 煎 带 子 、 秋菊南山野菌牛，等等。 쐽

Essential CHEF

“Continuing to innovate” is the cooking philosophy of the chef. In addition to participating in competitions he often goes to the local wet market to apprise seasonal produce in order to design a new menu every quarter. In celebration of the Chinese New Year, the chef and his culinary team have created special menus.

“The key element of Chinese New Year is good fortune,” he says. “All the dishes should have a good name for auspicious blessings.”

Technical creativity and elegance best sum up the dishes developed by Chef Chin. He whets the appetite with a wide selection of dim sum such as Golden Fish Shape Pork

Dumplings, which contain the wish of all diners for a good New Year: symbolising a fish in water as well as all kinds of adorable buns representing an all-inclusive New Year with Steamed Milk Custard Bun and Mushroom Bun. To showcase the unique characteristics of the menu, the chef adds many little details; for example, the four colours shrimp dumplings.

“We use different juice; like from the green spinach, orange carrot and pink beetroot to make the dumpling skins more delightful. We want our diners to have a colourful future - just like the dumplings!” he says.

“In addition to traditional dishes like noodles and steamed dried oysters and black moss, I really want to showcase more creative dishes.

For instance, the sauteed prawns and scallops in pomelo sauce. I use the scallops - correlating to the Cantonese phrase 富贵带人来 (unsolicited wealth and followers) - to do some fusions with pomelo sauce and fried taro. This dish will give our diners a brand new experience.”

Other highlights include Bird’s Nest with Shark and Scallop Dumpling, Wonton Chicken Soup, and a la carte items such as Salmon Sashimi, King Prawns with Crab Roe, Pan-fried Scallops with Shrimp Paste and Crab Roe, Sautéed Fillet of Beef with Pumpkin and wild Mushrooms - plus much more! 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 17

Essential DESIGN

现 代 亚洲 水晶品 牌 The crystal of modern Asia 近年 来 随着葡萄酒消费需 求在亚 洲 市 场 的 日 益 增 长 ， 品 酒 和 酒 器 也 逐渐 引起 更多人的关注。为满 足美酒 爱 好 者 的 需 求 ， 亚 洲 首 个 世 界 级 奢侈 水晶品牌 Lucaris，设 计 推 出 了 一 系 列 精 致 的 水 晶 酒 器 With Asians’ wine consumption growing in recent years, people across the continent pay more attention to wine tasting and wine accessories. To cater to this group of wine lovers, Lucaris, Asia’s first world-class luxury crystal brand, has designed an array of exquisitely crafted crystal creations 文/by EDWINA LIU

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ucaris水晶九年前在泰国创立，如今已 经拓张至整个亚洲市场。品牌的水晶 玻璃制品是亚洲许多知名五星级酒店的首 选，如丽思卡尔顿酒店、四季酒店、香格里 拉酒店等。 “同 业 界 其 他 品 牌 相 比 ，Lucaris 是 个 非 常 年轻的品牌。为了能够在国际舞台上与业界同 行匹敌，我们不断投入巨资，开发并提升亚洲 制作水晶玻璃制品达到顶级品质的潜能，以 适 应 亚 洲 人 不 断 变 化 的 生 活 方 式 及 品 味 。” 18 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

泰 国 最 大 的 玻 璃 器 皿 公 司 海 洋 玻 璃 （Ocean Glass）执行总监 Uday Verma 说。 Lucaris 是 海 洋 玻 璃 旗 下 子 公 司 ，海 洋 玻 璃 的 口 号 是 — — “生 活 就 是 乐 趣 （ ” Life is pleasure）。他们希望给生活带来乐趣，而 Lucaris 则是标志着顶级的生活乐趣。由于诞生在亚 洲，Lucaris 的一些特色和基因更适合亚洲人 品味，更适合用来搭配亚洲食物和美酒。 “我 们 有 三 十 多 年 的 玻 璃 器 皿 制 作 经 验 ， 是亚洲第一间生产水晶玻璃的公司。海洋玻

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ounded in Thailand nine years ago, Lucaris crystal is now expanding its reach to markets throughout Asia. The brand is also the preferred crystal glassware for leading 5-star hotels in the region like The Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons Hotel, and Shangri-La Hotel.

“The Lucaris brand is very young compared to other brands. We persistently make a big investment to elevate our premium Asian-made glass crystal to compete on the global stage.

璃的创始人希望有更适合亚洲人的声名卓著 的 品 牌 ，”Lucaris 大 中 华 区 客 户 及 渠 道 发 展 部总监 Eddie Chew 表示。 虽 然 是 个 亚 洲 品 牌 ，Lucaris 的 酒 器 却 由 海洋玻璃和日本最大的玻璃器皿公司东洋佐 佐木（Toyo-Sasaki Glass）共同研发材质工艺， 由许多世界级品牌设计过作品的德国著名设 计 师 Martin Ballendat 担 纲 产 品 设 计 。“我 们 采用欧洲技术，融入更多热情和感情。我们 投 入 全 副 身 心 打 造 产 品 ，赋 予 其 浓 郁 的 亚 洲 风 情 。因 此 我 们 自 称 为 现 代 亚 洲 水 晶 品 牌，”Verma 继续说道。 为 了 最 大 程 度 地 提 升 实 用 性 ，呈 现 美 观 度 ，满 足 美 酒 爱 好 者 和 餐 饮 服 务 专 家 的 需求，优化视觉感官体验，Lucaris 玻璃器皿 全都经精心设计和制作，对最小的细节 都一丝不苟。 品 牌 的 辛 勤 付 出 ，在 其 玻 璃 制 品 上 一 览 无余——激光切割的精致杯沿散发着优雅气 质，别具视觉效果的极致设计加上水晶玻璃 材 质 特 有 的 纯 净 澄 澈 ，忠 实 呈 现 酒 色 和 质 感；同时配合加大杯身、无缝杯脚和平稳底 座让美酒充分发挥其香气和味道。 Lucaris 以自己的亚洲出身为荣，并推出以 亚洲城市命名的特色系列。标志性系列包括 20 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

We strive to increase our potential to respond to Asian’s changing lifestyle and its palates,” says Mr. Uday Verma, Executive Director of Ocean Glass.

Ocean Glass, the parent company of Lucaris, has a slogan – ‘Life is pleasure’. They want to bring pleasure to life thus Lucaris is a premium life pleasure. The brand, born in Asia, means that some of its characteristics and DNA are more suitable for Asians, and for serving the food and wine of Asia.

“We have more than 30 years manufacturing [experience] in glassware. We are the first company to make crystal glass in Asia. The owners of Ocean Glass, they have a wish for a more prestige brand suitable for the Asian area,” says Eddie Chew, Customer & Channel Development Director-Greater China of Lucaris.

Although the brand is based in Asia, Lucaris wine accessories is a collaborative achievement involving Ocean Glass, Toyo-Sasaki Glass and Martin Ballendat, a multiple award-winning German designer whose works appear in the portfolios of many world-class brands. “We use the same technology as the Europeans and we

Essential DESIGN

put more passion and emotion [into it]. We put [our] soul into it to make it very Asian. That’s why we call ourselves the crystal of modern Asia,” Verma continues.

Lucaris glassware has been meticulously designed and crafted down to the smallest detail in order to ensure the highest degree of functionality and aesthetic quality evoking all the senses whilst meeting the demands of wine lovers and food service professionals.

The brand’s efforts are apparent from the details of Lucaris glasses - from the laser-cut rim that projects elegance, and the refined visual sensory statement to the absolute transparency of the glass enables wine to express its true visual characteristics; meanwhile, a special oversized bowl permits the wine to develop its tastes and aromas atop a seamless stem and stable flat base.

To promote its origins, Lucaris collections are named after Asian cities. Signature collections include Hong Kong Hip, Shang Hai Soul, Tokyo Temptation and Bangkok Blliss. As many

动感香港系列（Hong Kong Hip）、上海精髓系 列 （Shang Hai Soul）、东 京 诱 惑 系 列 （Tokyo Temptation）及曼谷祝福系列（Bangkok Blliss）。 正如许多酒迷所知，不仅醒酒时间的长短和 温度的改变会影响美酒的品质，酒杯形状的 不同也会造成味道有所不同。同一种酒装在 不同形状的酒杯中，可以绽放出完全不同的 芳 香 和 口 感 。为 了 让 美 酒 爱 好 者 尽 情 享 受 美 酒 佳 酿 ，路 卡 瑞 司 根 据 不 同 的 美 酒 特 点 设计了不同形状的杯子，每个系列也都包括

针对特别美酒而设计的不同形状的玻璃杯， 如波尔多红酒杯、勃艮第红酒杯、霞多丽红 酒杯及香槟杯。 2017 年 已 然 走 过 ，路 卡 瑞 司 非 常 自 豪 能 够 成 为 “2017 年 度 酒 店 人 奖 （ ” The Hoteliers Award 2017）的赞助商。在大奖颁奖典礼上， 所有嘉宾都借机体验了精致的动感香港系列 水晶玻璃器皿，系列产品现代前卫，完美呈 现品牌的卓绝品质、优美设计以及作为亚洲 品牌的自豪情怀。 쐽

wine lovers know, the taste of wine is not only affected by the time it takes to decant plus its temperature but is also affected by glass shape.

Different glass shapes can tease out completely different bouquets and finishes from the same wine. To assure the drinking experience is all it can be the brand designs its glasses in shapes according to the different characteristics of the wines likely to be poured. Thus, each collection comprises different glass shapes for specific wines, with glasses for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chardonnay and Champagne.

2017 may now be behind us but Lucaris takes great pride in being the official glass crystal sponsor of The Hoteliers Award 2017.

During the awards ceremony all the participants may experience the brand’s exquisite Hong Kong Hip crystal glass products, a modern and edgy collection showcasing the excellent quality, design and absolute pride the brand takes in being Asian. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 21

Essential DESIGNER

浮 华魅 力 纸 醉金 迷 Glamour and Glitz! 澳 门处处 屹立 着摩 登的 玻璃 幕墙 大厦 和 富 丽 堂 皇 的 度 假村， 喧嚣 繁华 、绚 丽迷 人， 但依 旧 保 留 着 自 己 独 有的历 史文 化内 涵。 在澳 门长 大成 人 的 九 零 后 时 装 设计师 罗伟 杰（Nuno Lopes）在 其 作 品 中 运 用 了 许 多金光 闪闪 的元 素， 映射 出这 座独 特 城 市 的 演 变 Macau is a glamorous city festooned with modern glass buildings and glittering resorts but manages to maintain its historic credentials. Growing up in this unique city, 90s fashion designer Nuno M. Lopes de Oliveira showcases a lot of gold and glitter elements in his works to reflect his evolving hometown 文/by EDWINA LIU

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015年年中，罗伟杰在伦敦毕业生设计 时 装 周 （ London Graduate Fashion Week）上展示自己的毕业作品系列时一鸣惊 人。自那时起，他开始受到各大知名时尚 杂 志 的 关 注 ， 其 中 包 括 《 Vogue》 英 国版、《Wonderland》、《Dazed and Confused》 等。罗伟杰同许多知名造型师合作过，他的 设计也吸引了世界各地的粉丝。 如 今 ，罗 伟 杰 正 发 奋 努 力 ，期 再 次 在 伦 敦以自己的全新系列惊艳时尚界。 《精华》杂 志采访了罗伟杰，本期将为读者讲述璀璨夺 目 T 台的幕后故事，以及这位青年设计师如 何在国外追逐自己的梦想。 你是从何时开始从事时尚设计的？ 很 小 的 时 候 ，我 就 受 到 不 同 时 尚 元 素 的熏陶。我家人认为穿着得体非常重要，是 尊重他人、尊重自己的表现。更不用说，我 祖父是澳门传奇乐队——澳门人乐队（Tuna Macaense）的 主 唱 ，我 母 亲 曾 入 围 澳 门 小 姐 决 赛 … … 在 美 的 方 面 ，我 的 家 人 对 我 有 绝 对的影响。 我记得自己最早开始欣赏的衣服是祖母 工作时穿的裙子，虽然当时我并不知道那就 是时尚，但看到美的东西时，我是知道的。 我觉得在时尚界，有发现美的眼光很重要， 否则做设计师就没有任何意义。 22 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

是什么让你想成为一名设计师呢？ 我自幼就颇有艺术细胞，很有创意，小时 候大多数的日子都在画画……最后，我长到 了一定的年龄，开始用时装设计来表达我的 思想和创意。我希望用我设计的服装让人们 更强大、自信；希望我的服装能使人们感觉 自己与众不同，并且感到开心快乐。作为一 名 时 装 设 计 师 ，我 不 仅 在 做 自 己 热 爱 的 事 情，还能向我的顾客传达积极的正能量。 你在澳门长大。为什么会选择到海外求学？ 渐 渐 长 大 后 ，我 意 识 到 自 己 希 望 投 身 艺 术界，就开始在澳门寻找求学的机会；不幸 的是，澳门没有适合我的专业。于是我向父 母咨询，问他们我是否可以出国，去英国追 求我的艺术之梦。 你在英国学到了什么？ 我 15 岁 离 开 澳 门 ，最 初 住 在 英 国 的 寄 宿 家 庭 。小 小 年 纪 离 家 生 活 教 我 学 会 了 独 立 。 我在学校附近的一家中餐外卖店做兼职，刚 到 英 国 后 的 生 活 并 不 那 么 光 鲜 亮 丽 。可 以 说，我初到英国时，生活与我想象的不同。 几年后，我搬到伦敦附近，这意味着我与 时尚中心的距离拉近了，也有更好的艺术院 校可选。尽管初到英国时，事情并非如我期 待的一样，可我意识到，自己越努力，等待

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opes’ breakout moment came in mid2015, in London, when he showcased his final collection from college at London Graduate Fashion Week. From this, the young designer attracted great interest from British Vogue, Wonderland, Dazed and Confused... and many more well known fashion publications. Since then, Nuno Lopes has worked with many celebrity stylists, with his brand finding resonance around the world.

Now this talented designer is managing to amaze the fashion establishment with his new impressive collection in London. Essential

Essential DESIGNER

的时间越长，追求梦想的热情也越强烈。英 国的时装教育真正教会我时装业的基本知 识，例如，我的所有缝纫技巧和纸样技巧都 是 在 那 里 学 到 的 。（学 校 ）从 零 开 始 教 授 一 切知识，从创意到服装制作。 你最喜欢的设计师是谁？ Versace 范 思 哲 是 我 一 直 都 最 喜 欢 的 设 计 师。我特别喜欢范思哲的华丽绚烂风格，及 其繁复的设计理念。范思哲多年来取得了巨 大成功，非常清楚品牌顾客的喜好。两位纽 约 设 计 师 The Blonds 也 令 我 非 常 着 迷 。他 们 设计的服装，材料都非常独特，每季似乎都

Macau recently caught up with him to hear the story behind the runway glitz and the experience of chasing his dream in a foreign country.

When did you start fashion design?

From a very young age I have been surrounded by all different elements of fashion. I come from a family who believes it is important to dress well, as it is a [mark of] respect both for others and to yourself. Not to mention that my grandfather was lead member of the legendary Macau band Tuna Macaense and my mother was a Miss Macau finalist... My family definitely

influenced me a lot on the art of beauty. My earliest memories of my appreciation for clothing were the beautiful dresses that my grandma would wear to work although at that point I didn’t know what fashion was - but I knew when something was beautiful. I think that it is important to have an eye for beauty in this industry, otherwise there’s no point in being a designer.

What made you want to be a fashion designer?

Growing up I was always a very artistic and creative kid, drawing most of my days in my childhood... Finally, I came to an age where I 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 23

有一个清晰明确的设计主题，他们的设计总 是带给人惊喜，令人难忘。 你的设计理念是什么？ 一直设计适合自己品牌美学的产品，不要 让高端时尚和快时尚决定或限制你的创意。 始 终 忠 于 自 己 和 自 己 的 客 户 。许 多 人 跟 我 说，我要更商业化才行：但商业化不适合我， 不适合我的品牌和我的客户。我一直尝试设 计一些人们能永远记住、或难忘的东西…… 但我始终记得要回归我的品牌美学。 你的灵感来自哪里？ 每 个 不 同 的 系 列 会 有 不 同 的 灵 感 。总 得 来说，灵感源自社会。例如，我在毕业系列 中探索了社交自恋主义。我的新系列灵感来 自我对科学、天文学和怀旧好莱坞装饰艺术 科幻电影的迷恋。 澳门的生活是否对你的设计有影响？ 浮 华 璀 璨 是 澳 门 的 神 韵 ；澳 门 同 时 具 有 独特的文化身份。作为一名九零后，我在成 长过程中见证了澳门从一个平静的海港小城 变成一个喧嚣繁华、灯红酒绿的大都市。直 到我离开澳门在英国生活后，我才意识到自 己是多么热爱家乡。 如你所见，我喜欢在设计中融入华丽的元 素，这一特点直接反映出我在澳门和英国两 24 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

began to use fashion design as a way of expressing my ideas and creativity. I like to empower people with my clothing; I want to make people feel special about themselves and have fun. By being a fashion designer I’m not only doing what I love but also able to [project] positive energy to my clients.

You grew up in Macau. Why did you choose study abroad?

As I was growing up in Macau and realising that I wanted to pursue a career in the arts, I therefore looked at the options in Macau for studying; unfortunately, there was nothing suitable for me. This is when I approached my parents, asking them if I could branch out and pursue my passion for the arts in the UK. What did you learn there?

I left Macau when I was 15, first living in a home stay in the UK. Living away from family at such a young age really taught me to be independent. I worked part-time at a Chinese takeaway alongside my education, which meant the early stages of my life in the UK were not so glamorous. I guess I can say when I first moved to the UK life was not as I expected it to be. A few years later I moved closer to London, which

meant I was closer to the fashion scene and had better choices for collages in the arts. Although it was not as I expected it to be when I first arrived, I learned that the harder you work and the longer you wait the more passionate you become about your dream. My fashion education in England really taught me the basics of fashion such as all of my sewing skills and patternmaking skills. You are taught to do everything from scratch, from an idea to a final product.

Who is your favourite designer?

My all-time favourite designer is Versace. I love the opulence and the idea of excess. The brand itself has accomplished so much throughout the years, understanding exactly what its clients like. I’m also obsessed with The Blonds, two New York-based designers. Their use of materials is so unique, and each season they seem to have a clear, straightforward theme, but they never fail to impress.

What’s your design philosophy?

Always design what you want think fits your brand aesthetic, do not let high street fashion and fast fashion determine or limit your creativity. Always be true to yourself and your clients. I’ve heard so many people telling me to

Essential DESIGNER

地的成长经历。即使现在，澳门还是不断赋 予我灵感。 （例如，这个灵感）可能是我了解 到 的 一 段 历 史 ，或 者 是 城 中 的 一 座 新 建 筑 。 我认为，无论表现形式如何，艺术会影响艺 术。在澳门长大的我见证了许多巨变。 我 很 喜 欢 澳 门 的 一 点 是 ，虽 然 已 经 演 变 成一个瑰丽迷人的城市，但却依旧保持着其 本真之美。我爱澳门带给我的感觉，而不是 什么有形的东西。这种神秘的家的感觉，这 座 城 市 的 繁 华 璀 璨 一 直 激 励 着 我 ，给 我 灵 感 。我 经 常 在 作 品 中 用 到 金 光 闪 闪 的 元 素 ， 直接表明我的出处；毕竟我确实觉得澳门是 世界上最具魅力的地方之一。 你的毕业作品入选伦敦毕业生时装周展演。 时装周过后有何不同？ 我是凭借在大学的媒体时装秀而首度进 军 主 流 时 尚 界 ，在 100 名 时 装 系 学 生 中 ，我 是 被 选 出 参 加 2015 年 伦 敦 毕 业 生 时 装 周 的 19 名学生之一。那时起，我引起了《Vogue》 英国版、 《Wonderland》、 《Dazed and Confused》 等许多知名时装杂志的注意。 我深深感激自己的辛勤付出终于有了回 报，但这一切也要归功于我在大学期间出色 的支持体制。我的大多数教授都在业界享有 卓 越 成 就 ； 我 的 导 师 为 著 名 摄 影 师 Tim Walker 工 作 。 有 位 老 师 长 期 担 任 美 国 歌 星 Lady Gaga 的服装设计师，可以说我们拥有 时 尚界第一手知识和资讯。这为我踏入时 装界做好了准备，为创立自己的品牌积累了 必要的经验。 你 是 首 位 登 上 《Vogue》并 获 得 国 际 奖 项 的 澳 门 时 装 设 计 师 。这 种 经 历 对 你 的 事 业 有 帮助吗？ 帮 助 太 大 了 ！ 获 得 《Vogue》英 国 版 的 认 可 ，并 被 《Vogue》意 大 利 版 评 为 2015 年 度

be more commercial: this does not suit me, my brand or my clients. I always try to design something that people will remember, leaving a lasting impression... but I always remember to tie it back to my ultimate brand aesthetic.

Where does your inspiration come from?

My inspirations vary in each different collection. One inspiration was from society as a whole. For example, I explored social narcissism in my graduate collection. For my new collections inspiration comes from my fascination with science, astronomy and old Hollywood Art deco Sci-fi movies.

Does life in Macau influence your design?

The soul of Macau is the glitz and glamour; Macau has a unique cultural identity. As a 90s kid growing up I’ve watched this city transform from a calm harbour city to a busy glittering city.

It wasn’t until I left Macau and lived in the UK that I realised my appreciation of my hometown.

I love indulging in glamour as you can see through my designs, which is a direct refection of myself and the influence of my upbringing in Macau and the UK. Even now Macau keeps inspiring me. [For example, it] could be a piece of history I learned about or new architecture in the city. I believe art influences art, no matter what form it is. Growing up in Macau, I have seen a lot of big changes. I love that Macau has become such a glamourous city but always manages to retain its natural beauty. What I love about Macau is a feeling, it’s not really a physical thing. This mysterious feeling of home, the glamour of this place that keeps on inspiring me.

The use of gold and glitter that I often use in

my work is a reflection of where I came from; after all, I do think Macau is one of the most glamorous places in the world.

You were chosen to show your works at London Graduate Fashion Week. Was there any difference after that show?

I was first pushed onto the main fashion scene at my university press show, I was selected as one of 19 students among 100 fashion students to showcase my final collection at London Graduate Fashion Week in 2015.

That’s when I got noticed by British Vogue, Wonderland, Dazed and Confused... and many more well known fashion publications. I felt deeply grateful that my hard work had finally paid off, but it all comes down to a great support system I had during my time at university. Most of my professors were well accomplished within the industry; my tutor worked for Tim Walker.

One of my teachers was actually a long term costume designer for Lady Gaga, meaning we actually had firsthand knowledge of the fashion industry. This prepared me for the industry and the experience needed to start my own brand.

You are the first Macau fashion designer to be featured by Vogue, winning an international award. Did this help your career?

Tremendously! Being acknowledged by British Vogue and named one of the 10 best fashion students of 2015 by Italian Vogue made celebrity stylists notice me, and people took my brand and work seriously. At first I was doubtful about my work but after the recognition I gained from my graduate collection all my insecurities and self-doubt disappeared.

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 25

Essential DESIGNER

“十佳时装设计生”，令许多知名造型师注意 到我，人们对我的品牌和作品都很重视。起初 我对自己的作品有所怀疑，但在我的毕业作 品系列获得肯定后，我所有的不安和自我怀 疑都消失了。 随 后 ， 我 获 得 了 2016 年 Fashion Asia Awards 颁 发 的 “ 亚 洲 优 秀 青 年 设 计 师 大 奖 ” 。 对于自己在毕业短短两年间取得的成就，我 非常自豪；希望未来我能更加成功、前途更 加光明，因为成功是我前行的动力。 今 年 ，你 再 次 获 邀 在 伦 敦 时 装 周 上 发 布 自 己的系列……

2017 年 又 是 充 满 惊 喜 但 忙 碌 的 一 年 。我 有幸携品牌亮相伦敦时装周，之后又现身中 国深圳，把品牌带到新国度。伦敦的好处在 于，那里的时装业非常成熟，充满活力，伦 敦时装周期间有许多平台供设计师展示作 品，吸引业界关注。 邀请我参加时装周的组织方是伦敦帝国 学院，他们每年都举行一次时装秀。今年， 我获邀展示自己的品牌系列。我很荣幸，也 很兴奋能够参与其中，因为活动所有利润都 将 捐 赠 给 英 国 乳 癌 研 究 会 （Breast Cancer Research UK）。我不仅能够借平台展示自己 的 作品，还能够借机为这样意义非凡的事 业贡献力量。 现在我们在哪里能找到你的品牌呢？你的顾 客都来自哪里？ 我 的 品 牌 是 个 国 际 电 子 商 务 品 牌 ，产 品 销往世界各地。伦敦、澳门和中国大陆都有 26 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

我的工作室，用来为顾客试身。电子商务是 未来的趋势，因为可触及的受众更广。 你有没有非常特别的客人……? 自 从 2015 年 年 中 推 出 自 己 的 品 牌 后 ，我 很幸运能够与许多著名的造型师合作。他们 透过闻名遐迩的伯明翰服装秀（Birmingham Clothes Show）及英国电子乐队 Years and Years 呈 现 我 的 作 品 。 但 帕 里 斯 ·希 尔 顿 （Paris Hilton）一 直 都 是 我 最 喜 欢 的 客 户 ；我 很 希 望她能穿上我新系列中的衣服。

After that I earned the title of one of Asia’s Top Young Designers at the Fashion Asia Awards 2016. I am very proud of what I have accomplished in these short two years after my graduation; I’m hopeful for a brighter and successful future as success is what drives me.

你现在正在伦敦筹备自己的全新设计…… 对 ，我 正 在 创 作 新 系 列 ，这 个 系 列 会 在 2018 年 上 半 年 的 时 装 展 上 展 示 ，先 是 在 伦 敦，然后是中国大陆和澳门。系列包含 20 到 30 个造型。此次，系列中将包括女装，去年 我只呈献男装设计。许多客户希望我推出更 多女装。这个系列会包含罗伟杰标志性作品 以及更多的成衣产品。

This year you were also invited to show your collection at London Fashion Week...

2017 has been another amazing yet hectic year. I had the chance to showcase in London and afterwards in Shenzhen China, taking my brand to new territories. The good things about London is that the fashion industry is so vibrant and mature, meaning there are so many platforms for designers to showcase their work during Fashion Week and be noticed by people in the industry.

The organiser that invited me was Imperial [University] London, who host a fashion show every year. This year, I was invited to showcase my collection. I was honoured and excited to be taking part as all the profits from the event went to Breast Cancer Research UK. Not only did I have a platform to showcase my work but at the same time I was able to dedicate my time to such an important cause.

准备新系列时，你是否会有压力？ 压力极大，但创作过程中有自我怀疑很正 常。我的家人和合作伙伴都给予我强大的支 持。他们是我最好的评论人，因为他们会提

Where can we find your brand now? Where are your clients from?

I am an e-commerce brand that reaches global, shipping all around the world. I have

作为时装设计师，你起步时遇到过困难吗？ 起初，我对生意上的事并不熟悉。这些我 在 大 学 中 没 有 学 过 ，因 为 我 学 的 是 时 装 设 计 ，不 是 商 务 课 程 。我 只 能 通 过 生 活 教 训 、 调查研究及咨询他人而逐步学习，我仍在不 断学习，因为我的品牌在持续壮大。

Essential DESIGNER

出诚实的意见，而不是粉饰每件事。除了我 自 己 的 直 觉 外 ，他 们 的 意 见 是 我 唯 一 考 虑 的建议。

What is the process for a new collection?

From the concept, design developments, fabric sourcing, sample making to constructing the final garments takes months of preparation.

The design process cannot be rushed. I recently partnered with Macau Fashion Brand Inhabited Centre (澳門服裝品牌孵化中心) who provide factory labour to manufacture my ready-to-wear designs but when it comes to custom-made pieces I do it all myself from design to sewing.

创作一个全新系列的过程是怎样的？ 从初始概念、设计开发、寻找布料、制作 样品到成品完成要用数个月时间准备。设计 过程不能仓促，我最近同澳门服装品牌孵化 中 心 合 作 ，他 们 提 供 人 手 制 作 我 设 计 的 成 衣，但定制服装，从设计到缝制都是我自己 全力完成的。

What’s your goal...?

My goal is to become a successful entrepreneur and a well-known Macau brand globally, to put Macau fashion on the global fashion platform.

你的目标是……? 我 的 目 标 是 成 为 成 功 的 企 业 家 ，成 为 全 球 闻 名 的 澳 门 品 牌 ，把 澳 门 时 装 推 广 到 全 球时尚平台上。 你对澳门时装业有什么看法？ 澳 门 有 几 位 很 有 才 华 的 设 计 师 ，但 城 内 缺乏创意，因为这里没有发展和学习创意的 氛围。由于澳门没有学习艺术的需求或没有 发展空间，设计师不得不到海外发展。 政府项目只青睐于商业化、赚钱的基本款 式设计；他们对更具创意、敢于冒险的设计 师不感兴趣。这限制了本地设计师的创造性， 迫使他们调整设计以符合政府的项目需求。 你对澳门的年轻设计师有何建议？ 我会明确地跟他们说，在入行前，如果对 自己及自己想要定位的品牌形象没有百分百 的信心或把握，都要三思而后行。这个行业 的 竞 争 非 常 激 烈 ，创 立 自 己 的 品 牌 也 非 常 艰难。运气和努力是成功的关键……别总是 给自己放假！ 쐽

studios in London, Macau and China which I use for client fitting. The e-commerce business is the way forward as it reaches a bigger audience.

Any very special client...?

Since I launched my brand in mid-2015, I am very lucky to have worked with so many celebrity stylists. They showcased my clothes in the very famous Birmingham Clothes Show, and British band Years and Years. Above all, Paris Hilton would be my all time favourite client, however; I would love to dress her in one of my newer collections.

What do you think of the Macau fashion industry?

There are a few talented designers in Macau but it lacks creativity. This is because there is no environment for creative growth or learning.

Designers have to move abroad because there is neither capacity nor demand to learn the arts in Macau. The government schemes only favour the commercial, basic and moneymaking designs; they do not aid the more creative, risktaking designers. This limits the creativity of local designers, forcing them to adjust to the government’s scheme requirements.

Did you have any difficulty starting out as a fashion designer?

I mean, at first I was not very familiar with the business side of things. These were areas I didn’t learn from university as it was only a fashion design course, not a business course.

I had to figure it all out by myself through life lessons, research and asking people, which I’m still learning as my brand grows.

Do you have any advice for Macau’s young designers?

I would definitely tell them that if they’re not 100% confident or sure about themselves and the image they want to project to think twice before entering the industry. It’s very competitive and also launching your own brand is hard work. Luck and working hard are the key to success... and not taking too much time off! 쐽

You’re now preparing your new collection in London...

Yes, I’m in the process of creating my new collection, which will be first revealed in London, then in China and Macau, with fashion shows spreading throughout the first half of 2018. It will be a collection of 20-30 looks. This time, I will include women’s wear, as last year I only showcased menswear. This is because of the demands by so many clients asking me to do more women’s wear. The collection will include Nuno Lopes signature statement pieces and also more ready-to-wear pieces.

Do you feel stressed when preparing a new collection?

Extremely stressful and it’s O.K. to have selfdoubt in the process. I have a very strong support system both from my family and partner. They are my best critics, as they would tell me honest opinions, instead of sugar-coating everything. Their input is the only advice I take, apart from my own instinct, of course. 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 27

Essential TAILORING

绅 士 风度 The Gentlemen’s Code “西 装是现代 绅 士的盔 甲 。王牌 特 工 是 新 时 代的 骑士 ”— 《王 牌 特工》 加 拉 哈 德 ‘The suit is a modern gentleman's armour. And the Kingsman agents are the new knights’ ─ 《King’s man》Galahad 文/by EDWINA LIU

西

装 的 中 文 意 思 是 “西 方 男 人 的 正 式 套装”。 如今，大多数亚洲人只有在特殊场合，如 婚礼或特别会面时，才穿着西装。但穿西装 在欧洲绅士的文化、生活方式中拥有非常重 要的意义。 这 种 文 化 让 两 位 年 轻 人 为 之 着 迷 ，他 们 决定携手把这种文化引进故乡澳门，于是， Sartor Lab 诞 生 了 。 “我 父 亲 是 位 经 验 丰 富 的 老 裁 缝 ，我 从 小 到 大 的 外 套 都 是 他 亲 手 制 作 的 。我 自 小 在 耳 濡 目 染 中 受 到 父 亲 的 影 响 ， 所 以 也 对 裁 缝 很 感 兴 趣 ，”Sartor Lab 创始人曹家威表示。 曹 家 威 在 美 国 学 习 了 时 装 设 计 ，一 回 到 澳 门 就 遇 到 了 同 事 兼 生 意 伙 伴 蔡 桂 清 。“蔡 桂清曾在英国求学，他也受到英国绅士文化 的强烈熏陶。他很喜欢我的西装，问我到哪 里 去 买 。我 们 发 现 澳 门 并 没 有 高 端 定 制 裁 缝店，于是决定创立 Sartor Lab 裁缝店。” 第 一 间 Sartor Lab 店 铺 位 于 澳 门 老 街 上 ， 2015 开业。店内装潢高端时尚，让人彷如置 身享誉全球的定制西服一条街伦敦萨维尔街 （Savile Row）。 在 我 们 店 里 ，顾 客 会 欣 喜 地 看 到 所 有 服 装都是特别订制的高质素服装，从设计到制 作 都 是 我 们 自 己 经 手 的 。“我 父 亲 是 店 里 的 裁缝大师，每当我们遇到技术性的问题，他 都会给我们提出专业的建议，”曹家威说。

量身定制

澳门的裁缝店并不算少；最糟糕的是， Sartor Lab 不得不在国际奢侈品牌和快时尚品 牌 的 夹 击 中 保 护 自 己 。但 Sartor Lab 一 直 秉 承为顾客提供最卓越的服装产品，因此得以 在同行中脱颖而出。 “我们是澳门唯一一间提供高级定制产品 和 服 务 的 西 装 裁 缝 店 。（我 们 会 ）根 据 不 同 的客户打造细节。店里的布料、里衬及扣子 都是我们亲自从欧洲淘来的，”曹家威表示。 28 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 20178 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

生 活 在 这 个 躁 动 的 时 代 ，没 有 人 愿 意 等 待 。对 Sartor Lab 而 言 ，速 度 显 然 不 是 品 牌 的 专 注 点 ，因 为 我 们 致 力 于 打 造 高 品 质 产 品。一般来说，一套西装需要三到四个星期 的时间才能完成。 首先，客户来到店里后，专业员工会根据 客 户 的 要 求 和 职 业 推 荐 一 款 设 计 ；比 如 说 ， 他们不会向律师推荐太过花哨的色彩，但职

I

n Chinese, suit literally means ‘men's formal clothes in the Western world’.

These days, most Asians still only wear a suit for special occasions like weddings or special meetings. However, wearing a suit is a very important part of the lifestyle and culture of a European gentleman.

This culture fascinated two young men who came together and decided to bring this culture to their hometown of Macau. Thus, Sartor Lab arises. “My father is an experienced tailor. He has made all my outfits since I was a child. I am imbued with what I have seen and heard what my father did, so I’m also very interested in tailoring,” says Kade Chou, founder of Sartor Lab. Chou studied fashion design in the US, and upon his return met his colleague and business partner Victor. “Victor studied in the UK; he’s also strongly influenced by the gentleman culture there. He loves my suit very much, so he asked where he could get this. We found there was no high-end bespoke tailoring shop in Macau, which is why we decided to [establish] Sartor Lab.” Located in the old streets of Macau, the first Sartor Lab shop was opened in 2015. With its stylish, upscale interior the city’s answer to Savile Row, the golden mile of tailoring in London.

Here, clients indulge in all high quality tailor-made garments, designed and produced by the brand itself. “My father is the master tailor of Sartor Lab. When we have some technical troubles, he will give us his professional advice,” says Chou.

MADE TO MEASURE Macau has no shortage of tailoring shops; the worst thing is that Sartor Lab has to defend itself from the pincer attack of the international

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 29

Essential TAILORING

luxury brands and fast fashion brands. But Sartor Lab keeps the faith by providing the best quality products to connoisseurs and successfully stands out of the crowd.

“We are the only suit tailoring shop in Macau which provides haute couture products and service. Every detail can be personalised for clients. The fabrics, lining, and the buttons in our shop are [sourced] from Europe by ourselves,” says Chou.

Living in this impatient era, nobody wants to wait. For Sartor Lab, speed is obviously not its focus as the brand want to create quality products. Normally, one suit requires three to four weeks to finish.

First of all, when clients come to the shop, professional staff recommend a design according to the client’s requirements and profession; for instance, they would not recommend gaudy fabrics to lawyers, but for designers they can choose more stylish and bolder designs, while and the cutting of the pants can be skinnier and shorter.

“We also design a few different suit samples with different details according to the new fabrics we find for those lacking inspiration in style. Clients can also ask for our help to make a suit meet all their requirements,” says Victor.

Sartor Lab is concerned with every detail of their suits. Clients are also invited to customise every single detail from the single-breasted to double-breasted, from shawl lapel to notched lapel, from patch pocket to flap pockets as well as shoulder pads. “We are also the only store that makes Spalla Camicia (sown by hand, which creates a dimpled effect in the shoulder and allows the fabric to flex),” continues Victor.

The second step is choosing the fabrics, which Sartor Lab carefully selects from the most renowned and historic fabric companies in the world, believing that the finest wool is not only a luxurious material but provides the best comfort and quality. This is why a well-made suit is indispensable for men.

业是设计师的顾客就可以选择更时尚大胆 的设计，裤子的剪裁也可以更细更短。 “针 对 那 些 缺 乏 时 尚 灵 感 的 顾 客 ， 我 们 根据店中新进的布料设计了几款不同的西 装样板，并呈现不同的细节。顾客也可以让 我们帮他们制作一套适用所有场合的西装，” 蔡桂清表示。 Sartor Lab 对 西 装 的 每 个 细 节 都 精 益 求 精 。他 们 还 邀 请 顾 客 一 起 斟 酌 制 定 每 个 细 节 ， 如 单 排 扣 或 双 排 扣 ，披 肩 领 或 缺 口 领 ， 贴 袋 或 是 带 盖 口 袋 ，甚 至 垫 肩 的 选 择 等 。 “我 们 是 澳 门 唯 一 一 间 制 作 Spalla Camicia 的 店铺（Spalla Camicia，意式软薄拿坡里肩，手 工缝制，在肩膀处打造出小坑效果，布料可 以收缩），”蔡桂清继续说。 第 二 部 是 选 择 布 料 ，Sartor Lab 的 布 料 都 从世界各地历史悠久的著名布料公司甄选而 30 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential TAILORING

出，他们认为最高级的羊毛不仅是华丽的原 料，还提供最出众的舒适和品质。这也正是 精良制作的西装是男人必备的原因。 “越 来 越 多 的 西 装 爱 好 者 光 顾 我 们 店 铺 。 因 为 我 们 有 很 多 独 特 的 布 料 ，包 括 复 古 布 料 ，”蔡 桂 清 说 。“我 们 会 按 照 顾 客 的 工 作 和 着装场合（向顾客推荐布料）。如果他们需要 整日穿着西装，我们就会推荐轻身的材料。” 除 了 西 装 的 表 层 布 料 外 ，我 们 店 里 还 有 数不清的衬里种类，从大方低廉的材料到昂 贵有趣的布料，顾客甚至可以按照自己的喜 好选择衬里。“与其他裁缝店的衬里相比，我 们的衬里更为柔软透气，”他解释道。 在整个制衣过程中，顾客至少需要进行两 次试身。第一次是在设计确认后。当西装成 形后，顾客进行第二次试身调整合身程度。 员工也会帮助顾客选择搭配西装的衬衣。 店里也提供衬衣的量身定制服务。衬衣领子 和袖扣都可以依照客户要求定做。

“More and more suit connoisseurs come to us. Because we have many unique fabrics including vintage fabrics,” says Victor. “We will recommend our clients the fabrics according to their jobs and occasion. If they need to wear the suit for the whole day, we won’t recommend heavy fabrics.”

In addition to the outer layers of the garments, countless linings can be found here, from low key, elegant fabrics to fancy, playful fabrics, and clients can even personalise the lining with their initials. “Compared to the lining you can find in other shops, our linings are much tender and more air-permeable,” he explains.

During the whole making process, clients need to have at least two fittings. The first will be after they confirm the design. When the suit takes form, clients need to have the second fitting to adjust the fit. Staff will also help clients select shirts to pair with the suit. All the shirts are also provided by bespoke service. Collar and cuffs can be personalize, as well.

A GENTLEMAN’S DIGNITY When the duo started the store, they only wanted to make suits. Once it became profitable

they started to fill in more elements of the gentlemen’s culture. Now the shop is enriched with silk ties from Como, Italy, handmade leather belts and shoes from traditional Italian factories, and many other accessories that gentlemen need.

“Our leather shoes come from Barre et Brunel. The patina is at the heart of the brand.

All the patina shoes you can find here are handpainted by request based upon our clients’ request. This ensures the uniqueness of each pair.” Victor said. “For other people to start up a shop it is maybe very easy but for us it was definitely not. We want to bring the best quality products to our clients so we have to visit all the factories all around the world to collect these products.”

In order to spread the gentlemen lifestyle culture, Sartor Lab periodically holds special events in their new shop in Taipa to provide a platform for all the connoisseurs in town. “We really want to bring a new insight to Macau; we want people to discover the true value of the products,” says Victor. “Our desire is to help our clients tell their stories by our one-of-a-kind bespoke products.” 쐽

绅士品格

曹 家 威 和 蔡 桂 清 的 店 铺 开 业 之 初 ，他 们 只想定制西装。店铺开始盈利后，他们就开 始融入更多的绅士文化元素。现在，店铺里 还有来自意大利科莫（Como，位于意大利米 兰附近的丝绸之城）的丝绸领带，古老意大 利工厂手工制作的皮带和鞋履，以及绅士们 所需的许多其他配饰。 “我们的皮鞋来自 Barre et Brunel 公司。渐 变擦色技术（patina）是品牌的精髓。店中所 有的 patina 鞋子都是遵循顾客要求手工完成 擦 色 。”蔡 桂 清 说 。“对 其 他 人 来 说 ，开 店 可 能相当容易，但对我们来说绝对不是。我们 想 为 顾 客 呈 献 最 佳 品 质 的 产 品 ，因 此 我 们 必须去全球各地的工厂搜罗这些产品。” 为 了 推 广 绅 士 生 活 文 化 ，Sartor Lab 定 期 在位于澳门氹仔的分店举行特别活动，为濠 江所有名仕提供一个（了解绅士文化的）平 台 。“我 们 真 心 希 望 为 澳 门 引 进 一 个 全 新 的 视 角 ；希 望 人 们 可 以 发 现 服 装 产 品 的 真 正 价 值 ，”蔡 桂 清 说 。“我 们 的 愿 望 是 透 过 我 们 独 一 无 二 的 定 制 产 品 ，帮 助 顾 客 讲 述 他 们 独有的故事。” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 31

Essential PHOTOGRAPHY

现 实 社 会中的虚幻世界 The unreal world of reality 猫 、一只 涂了 红指 甲的 手和 一个 正回 首 的 女 人 — — 这 些 场 景 在 我 们 日常 生 活中并 不陌 生。 但透 过亚 历克 斯· 普 拉 格 的 镜 头 ， 每 样 东 西 都 融进 了 一个 戏剧 化的 、光 怪 陆 离 的 虚 幻 世 界 中 Cats, a hand with red nail polish and a woman who looks back - these scenes are not new to us in our everyday life. Through the lens of Alex Prager, however, everything melts into a dramatic, bizarre and unreal world 文/by EDWINA LIU

亚

历克斯·普拉格（Alex Prager），39 岁， 摄影师兼导演，成长期间穿梭于洛杉 矶和瑞士两地。她的大部分作品都源自童年 场景，映射出虚幻的的现实世界。亚历克斯· 普 拉 格 从 没 有 进 行 过 专 业 摄 影 学 习 ，但 在 2000 年的一天，当她偶然看到彩色摄影之父 威廉·埃格尔斯顿（William Eggleston）的照片 的那一刻，她意识到自己并没有做过为之充 满 热 忱 的 事 情 。于 是 ，她 在 e-bay 网 站 上 买 了 第 一 台 相 机 — — 二 手 尼 康 N90-S，开 启 了 自己的摄影生涯。 普拉格成长期间看过很多老电影，常在旧 货店买东西。她的作品中有相当大一部分散 发着强烈的复古时尚和风格。她也非常擅长 在作品中利用预先编排的极度戏剧化情景， 揭示人造灯光和化妆效果之下的真实情感。

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lex Prager, 39, female photographer and filmmaker, grew up between Los Angeles and Switzerland. Most of her works reflect the unreal reality world inspired by her cinematic childhood. This photographer never studied photography in school but one day in 2000 she happened upon William Eggleston’s photos, making her realise that she never chose a thing she was really passionate about. Thereafter she started to shoot with her first camera bought from e-bay, a used Nikon N90-S. Prager grew up watching old movies and shopping in thrift stores. A huge part of her works screams retro fashion and styling. She is also good at using staged, over-dramatised scenarios to reveal what lies beneath the artificial lights and gobs of makeup in her works.

The crowd is an all-time inspiration of Prager’s works. Face in the Crowd is one of 32 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 33

Essential JEWELLERY

人群永远都是普拉格作品的灵感源泉。 《人海独照》 （Face in the Crowd）是她最具代表 性的作品系列。同她的其他作品一样，这个 系列充满电影质感，在构建的场景中聚集数 百位演员，营造出人山人海的群体肖像，这 些场景包括机场航站楼、酒店大堂、沙滩、电 影院和其他公共空间等。 普拉格希望突显拥挤的公共空间和单 独个人间的对比。这些大型人群场景照 片 呈 现 个 体 之 间 的 隔 阂 。同 时 ，全 新 影 片

34 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

the most representative of her series. Just like her other works, the filmic quality series gathers hundreds of actors on constructed sets to create portraits of large crowds – in airport terminals, lobbies, beaches, cinemas and other public spaces.

The photographer wants to highlight the contrast between crowded public spaces and a lone heroine. These large-scale photographs of crowd scenes expose the disconnect between

individuals, while the new film Face in the Crowd explores the unspoken connections between individuals and is a much-needed reminder that we are part of something larger than ourselves.

The characters in the photographs seem very random and unordered but every detail in the images are well designed by the photographer herself, including the outfits, makeup and gestures. The lead actress is a totally Americanlooking blond woman who is quite familiar in

Essential PHOTOGRAPHY

《人海独照》探索了个体间存在的默契联系， 迫切地提醒我们：自己是人群中的一分子。 照片中的人物看似都很随意、无序，但影 像中的每个细节都由普拉格精心设计，包括 服装、化妆和姿势。女主角是一个美国人所 熟 悉 的 典 型 的 金 发 女 郎 。普 拉 格 希 望 她 的 影像美好永恒，人们可以从中发现与其日常 生活的联系。 普拉格再次与立木画廊（Lehmann Maupin） 合 作 ，自 即 时 起 至 3 月 13 日 展 出 她 的 最 新 作 品 。这 些 作 品 将 其 过 往 系 列 的 戏 剧 叙 事 张力进一步推向极致。透过不可能的、特设 的视角，反差场景的堆叠（如晴天、雨天的 层 叠 ），以 及 其 他 挑 战 既 定 的 摄 影 和 电 影 自 然 主 义 美 学 的 形 式 上 和 技 术 上 的 操 控 ，她 的影像揭示出创作过程中蕴含的技巧。 当代社会充斥着各种视觉信息——个人 被动面对着来自营销广告、新闻及社交媒介 的各种虚拟现实，但他们很少停下来思考： 在观看过程中，自己的思想是如何被潜移默 化的。普拉格的作品探讨这一问题，而且她 不仅呈现她希望呈现的场景，还让观众意识 到在观赏作品时产生的心理活动过程。 쐽

photographers’ country. Prager wants her images to be timeless so that people can find the connection with their daily lives.

This talented photographer joins hand with Lehmann Maupin gallery again, bringing her latest work to Hong Kong from now until 13th March. These latest works push the theatrical narrative potential of her prior series. The imagery lays bare the artifice in its creation, achieved through impossible, contrived viewpoints, the layering of incongruent scenes - such as a rainy day on top of a sunny one - and other formal and technical controls that challenge the assumed naturalism of photography and film.

Contemporary society is awash in visual information – the individual is presented with versions of reality in marketing, news, and social media, but they rarely pause to consider how their thoughts are guided in the process of looking. Prager’s work calls this into question, and not only reveals the scene she intends to present but makes the viewer aware of the psychological processes involved in their own observations. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 2月- 3月 | 35

Essential LUXURY

奢侈 品牌 推新 品迎 春节 Luxury brands gear up for Chinese New Year 随着春 节 临近，也到了为家人准 备礼 物 的 时 候 。 您若想 不 出送什么礼物，不 妨看 看本 期 《 精 华 》 杂志为 您推介的各大奢侈品 牌为 农 历 新 年 准 备的各式礼物 With Chinese New Year looming, a special gift for family is needed. For those devoid of inspiration, Essential Macau presents the best luxury brands to turn to for special Chinese New Year collections 文/by EDWINA LIU

江诗丹顿

瑞 士 顶 级 制 表 品 牌 江 诗 丹 顿 （Vacheron Constantin）为收藏家及高级制表工艺爱好者 特别呈献 Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese Zodiac 艺术大师系列之中国十二生肖传奇的 最新杰作——狗年腕表。系列中的两款最新 作品每款限量发行十二枚。 中 国 十 二 生 肖 对 应 十 二 个 年 头 ，每 个 生 肖代表一年，我们很快就会迎来狗年。腕表 中的狗狗采用铂金或玫瑰金材质制作，巧妙 地镶嵌在表盘中心。品牌工艺大师在腕表上 运用了巧夺天工的雕刻技艺，从中国剪纸艺 术中汲取灵感，中国剪纸民间技艺与瑞士文 化中著名的 Scherenschnitt 剪纸艺术相类似。 江诗丹顿狗年腕表搭载 Calibre 2460 G4 机 芯，为腕表的装饰艺术设计创造独特而完美 的背景映衬。表盘采用无指针的时间显示方 式，通过四个显示窗分别显示小时、分钟、星 期和日期。透过兰蓝宝石水晶表背，品牌著 名的马耳他狮子图案清晰可见。机芯所有零 件均经过精细打磨处理，完全符合日内瓦印 记（Hallmark of Geneva）的严谨要求，而江诗 丹顿正是这一卓越品质认证的最忠实代表。

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN For timepiece collectors, Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection should be one of the most desirable items. This top-notch Swiss watch brand releases two new creations, released in twelve models each.

According to the Chinese zodiac, each of 12 years is represented by an animal. This new year will be the Year of the Dog. The sign of the dog made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and delicately applied to the dial centre. The etching technique employed by the brand’s master engravers is inspired by a Chinese papercutting technique known as Jianzhi, a popular art echoed in Swiss culture through its famous Scherenschnitt paper-cutting.

This watch is powered by the Calibre 2460 G4 which can create a distinctive and ideal stage setting for the decorative arts. The handsfree time display is achieved through four apertures showing the hours, minutes, days and dates. The brand’s signature Maltese cross pattern can be seen through the sapphire crystal back. All movement components are indeed finely finished in accordance with the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva, a quality label of which Vacheron Constantin is the most faithful representative.

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 37

Essential LUXURY

迪奥

法国时尚品牌迪奥（Christian Dior）用充满 活力的色彩迎接农历新年。Dior Joaillerie 迪奥 高级珠宝创意总监维多利娅·徳·卡斯特兰 （Victoire de Castellane）设计的 Rose des Vents 系 列 ，灵 感 来 自 克 里 斯 汀 · 迪 奥 先 生 的 老 宅 Les Rhumbs， Les Rhumbs 意指罗盘玫瑰/风玫 瑰（法语作 Rose des Vents）的 32 个分位。 中 国 人 认 为 红 色 是 吉 祥 的 色 彩 。Rose des Vents 系 列 总 包 含 一 款 18K 玫 瑰 金 、钻 石 和 红色陶瓷手镯。卡斯特兰用风玫瑰造型重新 演绎了迪奥先生的幸运星——八芒星，为手 镯主人送上吉祥的祝福。 据 说 ，克 里 斯 汀 ·迪 奥 先 生 在 地 上 捡 到 一 枚 神 秘 的 星 星 ，自 此 他 一 直 怀 揣 那 枚 幸 运 星 ，并 将 此 看 作 命 运 征 兆 ，决 定 创 立 自 己的时装品牌。

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CHRISTIAN DIOR This Lunar New Year, French fashion house Christian Dior is bursting with vibrant colours.

Inspired by the old house of Mr. Christian Dior, named Les Rhumbs, the name given to the thirty-two divisions of the wind rose (‘rose des vents’ in French), Victoire de Castellane, the Dior Joaillerie creative director, has designed the Rose des Vents collection.

The Chinese believe red is an auspicious colour. The collection reveals an 18K pink gold, diamond and red ceramic bracelet. Castellane reinterprets Monsieur Dior's lucky star in the form of a wind rose – an eight-pointed star, sending blessings to the owner of this bracelet.

Christian Dior allegedly found a somewhat mysterious star on the ground, which encouraged him to open his own couture house, interpreting this chance find as a portent of his destiny, since when he always kept this lucky star in his pocket.

Essential LUXURY

托德斯

如果产品上的文化标志与品牌的公共形象有 违和感，消费者不会花钱购买。尤其是年轻的奢 侈品买家，更喜欢较为低调的雄鸡标志，因此意 大 利 奢 侈 品 牌 托 德 斯 （Tod’s）的 Limited Edition Slip-ons 限量版懒人鞋可能会满足他们的心愿。 “意 大 利 制 造 ”的 卓 绝 工 艺 是 品 牌 的 基 本 特 色，为了迎接中国春节，托德斯在狗年懒人鞋上 的态度较为保守，把狗的图案印在鞋底上。 品 牌 的 白 色 懒 人 鞋 采 用 典 雅 的 真 皮 材 质 ，双 Ｔ金 属 扣 可 以 根 据 男 女 款 式 采 用 吉 祥 的 红 色 缝 线 或 黑 色 缝 线 。这 一 时 尚 的 鞋 履 系 列 每 一 步 都 由托德斯工匠倾情精心制作。 쐽

TOD’S Consumers won’t spend money on products if some cultural symbols do not fit with the public image of the brand. Young luxury buyers, in particular, prefer rooster references served up on the more subtle side, thus the Limited Edition Slip-ons sneaker from Italian brand Tod’s might be on their wish list.

Made-in-Italy excellence is a fundamental characteristic of the brand, and in celebration of the Chinese New Year, Tod’s understated Year of the Dog sneakers conceals the zodiac symbol in the sole.

The brand introduces a white sneaker in elegant soft leather with Double T metal buckle for him or her with auspicious red stitching or classic black stitching. This stylish collection is handcrafted with care and passion at every step by Tod’s artisans. 쐽

珑骧

送 红 包 是 中 国 人 在 春 节 期 间 的 传 统 习 俗 。一 般 来 说，红包要等到正月十五才能打开。珑骧（Longchamp） 推出了一系列让人难以抗拒的 狗爪 印 花手 袋 ，让 您放 心 地把红 包装 满，直至可以打开的那一天。 品 牌 用 奢 华 小 羊 皮 再 次 演 绎 标 志 的 折 叠 包 ，立 体 感 更 为 突 出 ，一 双 狗 爪 印 花 为 喜 气 洋 洋 的 中 国 春 节 增添了一丝活泼气息。中号托特包为黑色，爪印使用 了 白 色 轮 廓 ，还 有 两 个 较 有 少 女 气 息 的 色 彩 — — 水 粉色和粉 蓝色，爪印饰有白色皮毛。 쐽

LONGCHAMP Requesting red packets is a traditional custom for Chinese people during the Lunar New Year.

Normally, the red packets should not be opened until the fifteenth day of the January Lunar Month. Longchamp is excited to launch a collection of irresistible paw prints handbags - perfect for holding all those red packets!

The brand reinterpreted the iconic foldable bag with luxurious lambskin leather, giving it a slightly more structured appearance, adding a playful signature in the form of a pair of paw prints to celebrate the exciting Chinese New Year. The medium-sized tote is available in graphic black with the prints outlined in white, and in two more girlish shades – pastel pink and powder blue – with the prints in white fur. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 39

奥 利维 尔 ·奥德马 斯 汝 山 谷的守 护人 Olivier Audemars, guardian of Vallée de Joux 40 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential INTERVIEW

他是 家 族企业的第四代传人， 有 义务 将 这 个 瑞 士 制 表 界 最 声 名卓 著的 品 牌 之 一永 恒 发展。16 年来，奥利 维尔· 奥 德 马 斯 一 直 兢 兢 业 业 地 服 务 于 由 曾 外 祖父 爱 德华·奥古斯特·毕奎 和 合作 伙 伴 儒 勒 · 路 易 · 奥 德 马斯 在 1875 年 创 立的 公 司。以下为您带来《精 华 》杂 志 同 这 位 汝 山 谷（Vallée de Joux）制 表 传统 和 工艺 守 护 人 的 对 话 He is the fourth generation of a family business responsible for perpetuating one of the most important names in the field of Swiss watchmaking. For 16 years, Olivier Audemars has been at Audemars Piguet, a company founded in 1875 by his great-grandfather Edward Auguste Piguet and his partner Jules Louis Audemars.

A conversation between Essential and a guardian of the watchmaking traditions and savoir-faire of the Joux Valley 文/by FERNANDO CAETANO AND CARLOS TORRES

生长在一个有如此深厚制表根基的家族，是 怎样一种体验？ 我同我的祖父很亲近。他教会了我各种东 西，比如滑雪和建树屋。但有时候，他会带些 金属物件回家，然后花几个小时研究这些东 西，让我气恼。那时，我并不明白他为什么要 花那么多时间摆弄这些无趣的东西，却不陪 我玩耍。直到有一天，他回家时带来一枚完 整的腕表，他让我用小镊子触碰调速机构。 忽然，机芯动了起来，就像一颗跳动的心脏 ……小小的零件们开始转动，秒针表盘也动 起来……就如魔法发生一样神奇无比！我第 一次去制表厂时大约八岁，我记得自己为那 里的平静、寂静和高度专注感到惊讶。 后 来 ，当 有 人 提 议 我 离 开 自 己 创 立 的 公 司加入爱彼（Audemars Piguet）时，那些儿时 的记忆又清楚地回到我的脑海里，指引我做 出正确的决定。祖父给我讲过的公司故事依 旧让我深深着迷。比如，在大萧条之前，大 约是 1928 年，公司遇到了困难，当时爱彼的 美国代理商代理的业务相当于公司 50%的营 收，而它却申请了破产。第二年，公司作坊 里只剩下三位制表工匠，他们仅生产一款型 号的腕表。对爱彼而言，那是段艰难可怕的 时光，但也以最艰难的方式学到了一个教训： 不要把鸡蛋全放在一个篮子里。这些故事使 我意识到，公司能有今天的成就，都有归功 于之前几代人、我的祖先们做出的牺牲。如 今，我们的职责是续写那个故事，继续铸造 长长的链条中的下一个链接——这个链条早 就始于我们的时代之前。 您为什么选择学习工程学？您的家族及家族 历史有没有影响您做出这个决定？ 首先，因为我数学和物理很好，德语和英 语 很 差 。所 以 学 习 工 程 学 是 自 然 而 然 的 选 择，也是个简单的决定。此外，我一直都对 自然界万物的运作方式、宇宙力学及时空概 念极其好奇，就像汝山谷（Vallée de Joux）的 老制表匠们一样。

鉴于爱彼依旧是家族企业，这一点是否令其 不同于自己的同行？又或说作为独立公司或 者隶属于大集团是否会采用相同的企业策略？ 我 的 曾 外 祖 父 爱 德 华 ·奥 古 斯 特 ·毕 奎 （Edward Auguste Piguet）和伙伴儒勒·路易· 奥 德 马 斯 （Jules Louis Audemars）在 1875 年 ， 创 立 了 爱 彼 （Audemars Piguet），此 后 一 直 传 承于两个家族的后代。爱彼一向以独立自主 的精神而立。艺术、起源及进取的思维代表 着品牌的精髓。 如今，制表行业基本上都控制在大型奢侈 品集团手里，作为家族企业倒使得我们更为 与众不同。这种独立的家族式心态让我们得 以在 20 世纪的重大变故中存活下来：两次世 界 大 战 ，1929 年 和 1973 年 的 两 次 经 济 危 机 ， 尤其是石英表危机，几乎彻底击垮了传统制 表行业。作为独立企业，让我们有机会和可 能专注于长远的未来和目标，避免只追逐短 期成效的心态。我希望，再过 100 年，我们的 后代还在制造复杂时计，在铭记历史和起源 的同时专注于革新和创新。我们的主要目标 是融合传统与创新，在前辈取得的成就的基 础上继续进步。我希望，等我的孩子们长大 了，他们会理解和体会爱彼的重要意义。我 希望在未来 50 年，我的孙辈能将同样的信息 传给他们的子孙。 还有一个重要因素让我们能够在同行中 脱颖而出：爱彼的两位创始人都来自制表家 族。老工匠们竭尽一切可能制造更复杂、更 精美的机械机制，但随着 19 世纪晚期大批量 生产技术的迅速发展，美国人得以成千上万 的 批 量 制 作 钟 表 。那 些 技 术 很 快 传 到 了 瑞 士。儒勒·奥德马斯和爱德华·毕奎坚决拒 绝这项革新技术以及相对应的工业化工序。 他 们 想 传 承 正 宗 的 制 表 传 统 ，他 们 意 识 到 ， 融合他们的热情和艺术会提高成功的几率。 这 一 点 在 今 天 依 旧 真 实 无 疑 。我 们 希 望 延 续 这 些 曾 让 我 们 祖 先 得 以 生 活 、居 住 在 美 丽 汝 山 谷 的 传 统 ，因 为 这 让 我 们 更 清 楚 公司的目的。

How was it growing up in a family with such deep roots in watchmaking?

I was very close to my grandfather. He taught me the most diverse things, like skiing and building tree houses. But sometimes he would come home with small metallic objects which he would spend hours working on, which frustrated me. At that age I still didn’t understand why he preferred spending time around those things that had no interest, instead of playing with me. Until one day, he came home with a completed watch, and let me touch the regulating organ with small tweezers. Suddenly, the movement came to life as if it were a beating heart… the cogs turned, the seconds dial moved… it was a magical moment! I must have been about eight years old when I visited the manufacturer for the first time, and I remember being amazed by the calm, the silence and the concentration that could be felt there.

Later, when it was suggested that I join Audemars Piguet and leave the company I had founded myself, it was clearly those memories that led me to make the right choice. I still had a huge fascination with all the stories my grandfather told me about the company. For example, when it went through some hard times around 1928, before the Great Depression, our agent in the US, which represented 50% of our invoicing, filed for bankruptcy. The following year, there were just three watchmakers left in the workshop who produced just one model. It was a terrible time for Audemars Piguet, but it taught us one lesson in particular in the hardest possible way: never put all your eggs in the same basket. These stories made me aware of the fact that the company as it is today owes everything to the sacrifices made by the previous generations, my ancestors. Today, our duty is to give continuity to that story, forging the next link in 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 41

Essential INTERVIEW

阅读您的其他采访时发现，您（乃至品牌）关 心工厂所在地民众和社区之情溢于言表。您 能解释一下原因吗？ 我想解释的是，爱彼并不属于我们，我们 只是爱彼的管理者，而不是主人，我们只是 为 了 确 保 公 司 价 值 和 其 DNA 永 久 不 变 。每 当我必须做出重要决定时，我试着想象我祖 父 在 50 年 前 ，我 的 子 孙 在 50 年 后 ，面 对 同 样的问题会怎样做。我们从父辈、祖辈那里 学到，公司不属于我们，属于爱彼的员工、员 工 的 家 人 以 及 整 个 汝 山 谷 。他 们 不 是 股 东 ， 但确是爱彼的基石和未来。爱彼的使命是保 有 必 须 的 最 佳 条 件 ，以 确 保 公 司 继 续 生 存 ， 并在将来永续发展。 这么说吧……汝山谷刚被发现时，有人怀 疑，怎会有人想在这样的地方扎根呢。第一 批抵达这里的定居者拥有非常独立的精神。 他 们 不 想 受 意 大 利 萨 伏 伊 王 朝 （House of Savoy）或法国法律的管束。他们知道来这里 后 生 活 将 会 非 常 艰 难 ，他 们 一 定 要 找 到 谋 生的办法，但至少他们是自由的。这种独立 的精神依旧洋溢在今天。 汝 山 谷 极 度 缺 乏 自 然 资 源 ，这 里 唯 一 富 足的东西就是大块的岩石、昏暗的森林和漫 长的冬季。有些石头与众不同，含有一点点 铁锈。居民们开始提炼铁锈，用森林中的木 材 把 锈 炼 成 钢 铁 。这 里 的 第 二 种 资 源 就 是 雪，间接带给人们另一种东西：时间。时间 赋予他们机会，一代又一代地，他们研发日 益复杂的机械构造，并且保证一切都尽可能 完美。你可以说，我们的钟表成就于一点铁 锈、大量的时间以及大量的艺术和付出。打 造复杂机械装置的艺术正是我们祖先发现得 以在这个荒凉恶劣地区生存下来的方式。 经过几年的拓张后，制表市场已经逐渐走下 坡路，比如说亚洲，过去十年间简直是制表 业的黄金国。在您看来，是什么造成了这种 变化？是单纯的经济或政治元素，还是一众 品牌施加的压力导致市场呈现一定的疲态？ 有本非常有趣的书叫作《这次不一样： 金 融 风 暴 是 可 以 预 测 的 ？ 》（《This Time is Different》）。书 中 讲 述 了 为 什 么 人 们 总 是 重 复犯着相同的错误，即使他们发现不同的理 性原因，还是重复一样的错误。纵观历史， 无论国家贫富，放债或是举债，都曾在一连 串 不 寻 常 的 金 融 风 暴 中 失 败 或 是 复 苏 。每 次，专家们都声称“这次不一样”，表示过去 的法则并不适用于当今现实情况，此次金融 风暴与之前的危机并不相同。 说到制表业，情况也没有什么不同。40 年 前，人人都为了石油急着冲进中东市场，以 为石油资源可以源源不断，价格会无限期地 攀升。中东是唯一的出路。但随后，油价开 始下降。然后是日本。本以为日本接管了美 国经济，所以人人都冲向日本市场，日本市 场目前的状况我们都有目共睹。然后是中国。 这次的逻辑不一样，本质上是因为中国人口 多，经济发展速度快。但同样的情况再次上 演，我们都能看到，中国的奢侈品市场如今 一样举步维艰。现在，许多品牌都处境艰难， 因为他们曾经对中国梦有信心。但过去发生 的事情还清晰地印在我们的脑海里。记得我 42 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

a long chain whose beginning was long before our time.

Why did you choose to study engineering?

Did your family and its history influence that decision in any way?

Firstly, because I was good at Maths and Physics and terrible at German and English. So engineering was a natural choice, and it was an easy decision to make. Also, I have always been extremely curious about the way things work in nature, about the mechanics of the universe and the meaning of concepts like Space and Time, just like the old watchmakers of Vallée de Joux.

Considering that Audemars Piguet is still a family business, does this make it different to its peers, or is the corporate strategy the same regardless of whether it is an independent company or part of a larger group?

Together with his companion Jules Louis Audemars, my grandfather Edward Auguste Piguet founded Audemars Piguet in 1875, which has since been passed down to the following generations. Audemars Piguet has always been defined by its independent spirit.

Art, origins and a progressive way of thinking represent the essence of the brand.

At a time when the watchmaking industry is essentially in the hands of the larger luxury groups, the fact that we are a family business makes us clearly unique. This independent, family mentality has allowed us to survive the events that marked the 20th century: two world wars, the economic crises of 1929 and 1973, and especially the so-called quartz crisis that almost wiped out the traditional watchmaking industry. Being independent gives us the possibility of having a long-term vision and goals, and avoid the mentality of short-term results. I hope that, in the next 100 years, our descendants continue to build complicated mechanisms and focus on innovation without forgetting their history and their origins. The main goal is to combine tradition and innovation so as to improve what was achieved by our predecessors.

I hope that, when they grow up, my children will come to appreciate and understand the importance of the Audemars Piguet legacy. And I hope that in the next 50 years, my grandchildren try to pass down the same message to their children and grandchildren.

There is also another important point that sets us apart from the others: both founders came from watchmaking families. These old artisans tried to build mechanisms as complex and as beautiful as possible, but with the development of mass-produced techniques in the late 19th century, the Americans were producing watches by the millions. Those techniques quickly arrived in Switzerland. Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet drastically refused this evolution and the inherent industrialisation

processes. They wanted to give continuity to the authentic watchmaking traditions, and by combining their passion and their art, they were well aware that that would increase their chances of success.

This is still true today. We want to give continuity to these traditions that helped our ancestors live in this beautiful Vallée de Joux, because that gives us a clear idea of the purpose of the company.

Having read other interviews of yours, your concern (and that of the brand) with the people and the community in which the manufacturer is located is clearly evident.

Can you explain why?

What I like to explain is that Audemars Piguet doesn’t belong to us, that we think of ourselves as administrators and not as owners, ensuring the values of the company and its DNA are perpetuated. When I have to make an important decision, I try to imagine what my great-grandfather would have done 50 years ago, just as what my children would do in 50 years’ time. We learn from our parents and grandparents that the company doesn’t belong to us, but rather to all the people who work at Audemars Piguet, their families and Vallée de Joux. They’re not stakeholders, but all the interested parts that make up the foundation and the future of this legacy. Audemars Piguet’s mission is to preserve the optimal conditions necessary to allow the company to keep existing and evolve in the future.

Let me explain... When Vallée de Joux was discovered for the first time, it could have been questioned why anyone would want to set down roots in a place like this. The fact is that those first inhabitants had a very marked independent spirit. They didn’t want to live under the law of the House of Savoy or France. They knew that everyday life would be difficult and that they would have to find a way to make a living, but at least they would be free. This independent spirit is still present today.

Vallée de Joux had extremely scarce natural resources, and the only thing it had in abundance was the big rocks, dark forests and long winters. Some of these rocks were special, because they contained a little rust. The settlers started extracting the rust and, using the wood from the forest to feed the foundries, transformed it into steel. The second resource was snow, which indirectly brought them something more: time. Time gave them the chance, generation after generation, to develop increasingly complicated mechanisms with the guarantee that everything was as perfect as possible. You could say our watches are made with a little rust, a large amount of time and a lot of art and dedication. This art of building highly complex mechanisms was the way our ancestors found to live in a hostile region.

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澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 43

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之 前 提 到 过 20 世 纪 晚 期 的 危 机 以 及 我 们 的美国代理商破产的事吗？那就是我们为什 么会于永久性市场冒险博弈的原因。这一点 很重要。当人人都加速冲进中国市场时，我 们还是把重心放在美国市场。如今，当人们 决 定 离 开 中 国 市 场 时 ，我 们 决 定 重 返 中 国 市场。去年秋天，我们在中国举行了一次非 常成功的展览。 这种态势会否对爱彼的活动造成反弹？公司 的决策会否受到影响？ 经 济 危 机 后 ，我 们 在 2007 年 决 定 调 整 策 略。我们觉得探讨品牌价值、起源、艺术更 为重要。我们决定限制产量，希望继续由人 类而不是靠机器制作时计。我们还决定骤减 销售点，以便拥有更好的资源，并更好地支 持其余销售点。我们准备好了接受业绩缩减 的结果，但实际情况却恰恰相反。如今，由 于决策的调整，公司业绩良好。公司存货少， 且在持续进步。 您是否认为将会有一个同之前的石英表危机 类似的危机？在某种方式上来看，智能手表 会不会成为瑞士制表界的危机？你们的家族 企业性质是否较有利，还是，完全相反，会 更难以度过逆境？ 这个问题不好回答，因为我们还在智能钟 表的起步阶段。有点像在只有平面印刷机的 情况下尝试想象全新 3D 打印机。在 70 年代 石英危机后我们意识到的一件事是，如今，机 械腕表不再只是测定时间的工具，它体现了 一项顶级艺术，体现了美以及对复杂的掌控。 我确信，只在表壳上装上由美国研发、中 国生产的谷歌操作系统的芯片，并不使腕表 成为瑞士腕表。机械腕表的核心是其微型机 械制造，而并非其电子技术。这一机械机制 不仅是这一艺术几百年来发展的结果，还是 未 来 100 甚 至 200 年 将 持 续 发 展 的 艺 术 。但 电子设备绝不会这样。虽然话是这么说，把 电子装置设在表带中也有可能，特别是皮革 表带中，因为其耐用度有限。 身为家族企业赋予了我们不同的责任感 和远大的目光，但我们没有那些上市集团的 短期财务短视目标。 对于瑞士制表业的未来，您怎么看？ 可以分为两个层面。一个是高级制表。如 果能够保持其艺术、复杂性及美学传统，并 可以避免简单生产、低成本的工业化工序， 这一领域将可以生存并繁荣发展。第二个层 面则关乎保持腕表金字塔的重要性，指的是， 在金字塔底部（石英腕表），除了进入智能腕 表市场别无选择。好消息是，瑞士有些公司 和研究实验室对微电子学有深入的了解，比 如 CMS，他们对石英的研究已有 40 年历史。 您是否认为机械腕表依旧值得投资？为什 么？ 当我们看到拍卖过程中机械表的价值不 断升高，当然有收藏价值！但那不是主要原 因。我把机械腕表称为“情感投资”；它们要 让你开心才行。它们让你觉得你和一段非常 悠 久 的 传 统 有 了 联 系 。你 戴 在 手 腕 上 的 腕 44 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

After some years of evident expansion, the watchmaking market is showing signs of slowing down, namely in Asia, which was a kind of El Dorado for the industry over the last decade. In your opinion, what caused this shift? Is it simply an economic or political issue, or could the market be showing some wear caused by the pressure applied by brands?

You know, there is an interesting book called “This Time is Different”, which addresses the reason why people are always ready to repeat the same mistake if they find different rational reasons to repeat it. Throughout history, rich and poor countries have lent and borrowed money, failed and recovered over an extraordinary succession of financial crises. Every time, the experts have alleged that “this time is different”, stating that the old laws of assessment don’t apply anymore and that the new reality has few similarities to the disasters of the past.

And in regards to the watchmaking industry, things aren’t that different. Forty years ago, everyone accelerated towards the Middle Eastern market because of the oil, which would last forever and whose prices would rise indefinitely. It was the only place to be. But then prices started to go down. Then it was Japan.

Japan was expected to overtake the American economy, so everyone accelerated in the direction of the Japanese market, and we all know the current state of the Japanese market. Then it was China. The rationale here was different, and was essentially associated to the size of the population and the country’s economic development. And once again, today we can that the Chinese luxury market is extremely difficult. At the moment, many brands are in a tough situation because they believed in the Chinese dream. But our past is still very much alive in our memory. Remember what I said about the crisis in the late ‘20s and the bankruptcy of our US agent. That’s why we keep our risks in a permanent market. That is very important.

When everyone sped up towards the Chinese market, we concentrated on the US. Today, we decided to return to the Chinese market when everyone else is leaving. We had an extremely successful exhibition in China last autumn.

Did this state of affairs have any sort of repercussions on Audemars Piguet’s activity? Was the company’s strategy affected in any way?

In 2007, following the crisis, we decided to change our strategy. We thought it was more important to talk about our values, our origins, our art. We decided to limit our production. We wanted to keep producing watches made by human beings and not machines. We also decided to drastically reduce the number of sales points so as to have more available resources and support the remaining ones better. We were ready to accept a reduction, but what happened

was exactly the opposite. Today, and because of a change in strategy, the company is well. It has a low inventory and we continue to progress.

Do you think there is a risk of a new crisis similar to the one before with the arrival of the quartz watch? Could connected watches in some way be a risk to the Swiss watchmaking industry as we know it today? Could the fact you are a family business help, or on the contrary, could it make overcoming adverse conditions more difficult?

That question is difficult to answer, because we are still at the start of connected watches.

It’s a bit like trying to imagine new 3D printers when only the printing press was available. One thing we realised after the quartz crisis in the ‘70s was that, today, a mechanical watch is not just an instrument to measure time, but the expression of an art of the highest level, of its beauty and its command of complexity.

I am convinced that, because an Intel chip is placed in a watch case, with a Google operating system developed in the US and produced in China, it doesn’t make it a Swiss watch. The heart of a mechanical watch is its micro mechanism manufacture and not its electronic technology. This mechanism is something that is not only the result of many centuries of this art, but also something that will continue to work for the next 100 or 200 years. That is obviously not the case with an electronic device. Having said that, it is possible to place an electronic device in the bracelet of a watch, especially leather ones, as these ones have very limited durability.

The fact that we are a family company gives us a different sense of responsibility and a longterm perspective, but we don’t have the shortterm financial perspective that groups with stock market exposure usually have.

How do you see the future of the Swiss watchmaking industry?

There are two dimensions. The first is about fine watchmaking. This is a segment that could survive and prosper if it maintains the traditions associated to its art, complexity and beauty, and if it can, avoid an industrialisation process, even if that could ease production and incur lower costs. The second is regarding the importance of keeping the watch pyramid intact, which means that at its base (quartz watches), there will be no other choice than entering the connected watch market. The good news is that, in Switzerland, we have some companies and research labs with an in-depth knowledge of micro electronics, such as CSM, the research entity where quartz was originally developed 40 years ago.

Do you believe a mechanical watch is still a good investment? Why? Of course, when we see the values going up at auction! But that’s not the main reason.

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 45

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表，也是制表匠生命中的一部分，他们在那 枚腕表上花去了几个月的时间。 爱彼拥有悠久和多样的赞助历史，你们的赞 助涵盖从运动到公众人物，从莫斯科大剧院 到环境等等。您能解释一下，这些赞助背后 的原因吗？尤其是大力支持巴塞尔艺术博 览会和马德里当代艺术博览会这样的艺术 展背后的原因？ 三年前，当我们开始赞助当代艺术时，我 们在想这会带给我们什么。我们觉得这将为 我们敞开一扇通向可以与我们对话的全新世 界的大门。但我们决定进入这一全新未知的 世界，希望以打造一个长期、坚实的基础为 起点。作为唯一一个由创始人家族掌控的制 表品牌，我们考虑的是几代人，而不是季度 业绩。以相似的方式，确保这一对当代艺术 的承诺可以成为一种长期（合作）关系，这 对我们而言非常重要。 因此，我们做了两个决定。首先，我们决 定寻找一个在视觉艺术方面的国际实体，拥 有高信誉度，能够和我们一样有着某些相同 的 瑞 士 文 化 根 源 就 更 理 想 。全 球 闻 名 遐 迩 的巴塞尔艺术博览会是显而易见的选择。 其 二 ，参 与 过 越 来 越 雄 心 勃 勃 的 艺 术 项 目 后 ，我 们 创 立 了 爱 彼 艺 术 创 作 委 托 计 划 （Audemars Piguet Art Commission）。爱 彼 艺 术 创作委托计划每年邀请一位策展人担任顾 问。策展人的任务是寻找艺术家创作以“复杂 性”和“精准性”为主题的艺术作品，这些主题 是艺术灵感的源泉，同时与我们的品牌传统 有着天然的关系。入围者将获邀来到我们在 汝山谷的公司总部，因此他们能了解我们的 实际情况和历史背景，然后向委员会提交项 目计划。我们会终选其中一个方案，并提供 艺术家执行创作计划所需要的各种特别资源 和人脉，让其将意念化为现实。 46 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Mechanical watches are what I call “an emotional investment”; they have to make you happy.

They have to make you feel like you are tied to a very long tradition. What you have on your wrist is also a part of the life of the watchmaker, who spent months working on that watch.

Audemars Piguet has a long and varied history of sponsors, from sports to public figures, from the Bolshoi Theatre to the environment.

Can you explain the logic behind these sponsors, and particularly the reason behind the strong support given to art, such as Basel and Arco Madrid?

Three years ago, when we began our journey in contemporary art, we thought about how far it could take us. We thought it could well be the gateway to a new universe that in some way could speak to us. When we decided to enter this new unknown world, we wanted to start by establishing a solid and long-lasting foundation.

Being the only watchmaker still under the control of the founding families, we tend to think in terms of generations, and not on quarterly results. And in a very similar way, it was extremely important for us to ensure that this commitment to contemporary art would become a long-term relationship.

For that reason, we made two decisions.

First, we decided to find a partner that was a universal entity in the visual arts, had high credibility and, ideally, would be able to share some Swiss cultural roots with us. Art Basel, with its global reach, was the obvious choice.

Second, after being involved in increasingly ambitious artistic projects, we established the Audemars Piguet Art Commission. The process

of this Commission begins with an annual invitation to a curator. The curator has the task of finding artists whose work is based on the theme of complexity and precision – topics that have been a source of artistic interest and which share a natural affinity with our heritage. The finalists are then invited to our house, in Vallée de Joux, so they can understand who we are and where we come from, and then propose projects to the Commission. We help one of these ideas come to life by providing access to our resources and contacts with any type of speciality that the artist could need to execute their work.

Three years later, we are still at the beginning of our journey, but I’m convinced that we chose the right path, seeing as artists and artisans are first cousins. Basically, at home, we don’t need a painting or a work of art on the wall.

A bare stone wall would perfectly do. In the same way that we don’t need a mechanical watch on our wrist, because a phone performs that task more efficiently. In both cases, we would have something that provokes an emotion and speaks more to the heart than it does the brain. In this respect, we feel at home when we are in contact with contemporary artists.

Artists have the ability to see things in a different way. They place the signs of the world in their artworks and allow us to have a better understanding of how it is evolving. A world in constant evolution; the company can then adapt itself to it.

The images of Dan Holdsworth, a British photographer and artist, were completely different to the image we had of this valley. His work opened our eyes and we decided to define ourselves in a different way. The company today is

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三年后，我们依旧在起始阶段，但我确信 我们选择了正确的道路，我们将艺术家和工 匠同等看待。在家里，我们用不着非要在墙 上 挂 一 幅 画 或 一 件 艺 术 品 ，一 块 石 头 就 足 够了。同样，我们也用不着戴机械腕表，因 为有手机就足够了。但无论如何，我们都需 要东西激发我们的感情，与心灵——而非脑 袋 — — 对 话 。这 么 一 来 ，接 触 到 当 代 艺 术 时，我们感到亲切自然。 艺术家们有能力用不同的方式看东西。他 们在作品中呈现世间的事物，让我们更好地 理解世界如何演变。世界在不断演变当中， 公司也要不断适应这种演变。 英国摄影师、艺术家丹·霍兹沃斯（Dan Holdsworth）拍摄的汝山谷照片，完全不同于 之前的任何汝山谷相片。他的作品让我们大 开 眼 界 ，我 们 决 定 以 不 同 的 方 式 来 定 义 自 己 。如 果 没 有 看 到 过 丹 ·霍 兹 沃 斯 的 照 片 ， 今天的爱彼会是另一番模样。 在所有的爱彼腕表中，哪一款是您日常最喜 欢戴的？特殊场合时，您又最喜欢哪一款？ 我 今 天 戴 的 是 Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel 皇 家 橡 树 双 摆 轮 镂 空 腕 表 。这 款 镂 空 皇家橡树腕表拥有现代的设计和经典传统 的 气 息 。双 摆 轮 加 倍 提 升 了 腕 表 的 精 确 度 和 精 准 性 ，这 要 归 功 于 电 子 工 业 的 一 种 叫 作 硅 元 素 的 材 料 。这 款 表 是 世 界 上 第 一 款 双 摆 轮 腕 表 ，而 且 这 款 表 最 不 同 寻 常 的 特 点在于，灵感来自我们的钟表匠，而不是公 司的研发部门。 皇 家 橡 树 是 时 代 的 先 锋 ，是 史 上 第 一 款 豪 华 精 钢 腕 表 ，在 整 个 高 级 制 表 界 引 发 了 一 种 潮 流 。在 功 能 及 设 计 方 面 完 美 糅 合 了 几百年的传统与尖端革新技术。

当有人问卡尔·拉格斐（Karl Lagerfeld）， 是否有让他迷恋的东西时，他答道：“我并不 迷恋物品。要取决于是谁给我的（……）的 确，还是有些令我迷恋的东西，比如，我的 腕 表 ，我 已 经 戴 了 35 年 了 ，它 是 1974 年 的 皇家橡树。” 有没有令您着迷、希望拥有的其他品牌的腕 表，或者您是否拥有其他品牌的腕表？ 当然有，Philippe Dufour 的 Simplicity 腕表。 我热爱这款腕表纯粹简洁的线条。其做工和 装 饰 简 直 鬼 斧 神 工 。Philippe 是 汝 山 谷 的 非 凡制表商，我对他无比尊敬。 在不久的将来，爱彼会带给我们什么？ 一如既往：期待惊喜发生。 쐽

different to the one that would have been had we not seen Dan Holdsworth’s work.

Of all the Audemars Piguet watches, which is your favourite for day to day? And for a special occasion?

Today I’m wearing the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel. It’s a skeleton Royal Oak with a contemporary design and a classic and traditional type of finish. The double balance wheel improves precision and exactitude, and relies on silicon, a material from the electronic industry.

It’s a world debut, and what is exceptional in this watch is the fact that the idea stemmed from our watchmakers and not from our research and development department.

The Royal Oak is a watch that is ahead of its time; the first luxury steel watch in history that set a trend into motion that transformed the entire fine watchmaking industry. It is the perfect combination between centuries of tradition and cutting-edge innovation in functionality and design.

When Karl Lagerfeld was asked if he had fetish objects, he answered: “I’m not obsessed by objects. It depends who gave them to me(…) But yes, I have some fetish objects, for example my watch, which I have worn for 35 years, a 1974 Royal Oak.” Is there a watch from another brand that fascinates you and you would like to have, or already have?

Yes, the Simplicity from Philippe Dufour.

I love the model’s pure and simple lines. The finishes and embellishments are absolutely divine. Philippe is an extraordinary watchmaker of Vallée de Joux and I have enormous respect for him.

What can we expect from Audemars Piguet in the near future?

As usual: expect the unexpected. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 47

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英 伦 珍宝 British treasure 家族 企业博德尔斯（Boodles）是 当 今 最 知 名 的 英 国 珠 宝 品 牌 之 一 ， 拥有两 百 余 年 历 史 A family business for more than 200 years, Boodles is one of the most reputed British jewellers today 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

博

德尔斯（Boodles）创始于 1798 年：当 年柯克（Kirk）家族在利物浦创立名为 Kirk & CO.的公司。多年后，1855 年，威廉· 温赖特（William Wainwright）在日益繁荣的利 物浦看到了商机，遂决定买下 Kirk & CO.，并 更名为 Wainwright。“利物浦是个非常重要的 航运城市。我们就是从那里起步的。我们售卖 大量银制品、钟表、古董和古老的珠宝首饰，” 公 司 现 任 总 裁 尼 古 拉 斯 ·温 赖 特 （Nicholas Wainwright）在接受《Luxury News Online》博客 采访时说。他同弟弟迈克尔掌管家族企业的 第 五 代 传 人 ，他 的 儿 子 乔 迪 （Jody）和 侄 子 詹姆斯（James）也加入了公司，他们可谓家 族的第六代传人。 1910 年，Wainwright 公司收购了 Boodle and Dunthorne 珠 宝 店 的 全 部 存 货 、商 业 名 称 及 所有设施后，迁往利物浦罗德街和北约翰街 交汇处，如今公司总部依旧在那里。

T

he year 1798 marked the beginning of Boodles. At the hands of the Kirk family, the so-christened Kirk & CO. was founded in Liverpool. Years later, in 1855, William Wainwright saw a business opportunity in a city that was prospering and decided to buy the company, re-christening it Wainwright.

“Liverpool was a very important shipping city.

And that’s where we started. We sold lots of silver, clocks, antiques and old jewellery pieces,” Nicholas Wainwright, the current president of Boodles, told the Luxury News Online blog. He is the fifth generation at the helm of the company, along with his brother Michael, but his son Jody and nephew James are also part of the iconic jewellery house, thus representing the sixth generation of the family.

It was in 1910, with the acquisition of the entire stock, the name and the facilities of the Boodle and Dunthorne jewellers, that the 48 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 49

Essential JEWELLERY

Boodle & Dunthorne 的 主 要 商 业 策 略 是 销 售其他知名品牌的珠宝，但也被委托设计出 席特殊场合的珠宝，主要是为皇室成员或重 要的体育赛事服务。 1987 年，品牌在伦敦的第一间店铺开业， 位于哈罗德百货对面，也就此展开其国际化 历程。决定性的时刻在五年后到来，公司彻

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底 调 整 其 业 务 。 在 尼 古 拉 斯 ·温 赖 特 和 迈 克 尔 ·温 赖 特 的 领 导 下 ， 全 新 的 Boodle & Dunthorne 诞生了。他们作出的一些重要决定 和举措有助于（重）建品牌，包括：在伦敦增 设店铺，与设计团队携手创作自家产品系列， 翻新捷克建筑师埃娃·伊日奇娜（Eva Jiricna） 设计的店铺，并把品牌名字简化成 Boodles 博 德尔斯。“过去我们从不销售自己的产品，只 混售一大堆他人品牌的产品。我们的广 告 非 常 老 土 。店 面 也 早 就 过 时 了 ， 橱窗里塞满了各种东西，包括 洗碗池。公司根本不赚钱，

company moved to the appealing corner of Lord Street and North John Street in Liverpool, where its headquarters still remain.

As selling jewellery pieces of other prominent brands was its main business strategy, Boodle & Dunthorne was often commissioned to design creations for special occasions, mainly linked to royalty and iconic sporting events.

In 1987, it opened its first store in London, across the road from Harrods, thus marking the beginning of its journey to international recognition. But the decisive moment came five years later, with the complete turnaround of the company’s focus. Under the command of Nicholas and Michael Wainwright, a new Boodle & Dunthorne was born. Some important decisions are responsible for contributing to the (re)construction of the brand: the opening of more stores in London, the contracting of a design team to create their own collections, the renovation of the boutiques by Czech architect Eva Jiricna, and the change of name to simply, Boodles. “We didn’t sell our own products; we sold a mishmash of other people’s stuff. Our advertising was provincial. Our

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 51

Essential JEWELLERY

”迈 克 尔 ·温 赖 特 在 2008 年 接 受 《 Real Business》采访时曾这样坦白。除了百达翡丽 外，他们停止销售所有的腕表品牌，因为尼古 拉斯认为百达翡丽“可能是全球最好的时计”。 自 此 ，品 牌 的 主 要 商 业 策 略 是 创 作 自 家 产品，并且始终追求顶级品质。“我们决定要 竭尽所能制作无与伦比的珠宝，在世界舞台 上与同行竞争。只销售他人的产品，品牌永远 不能独立或灵活多变。作为一向对珠宝有深 度了解的家族，我儿子乔迪和侄子詹姆斯是 家族中从事珠宝业务第六代了。我们会游历

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世界各地购买宝石。我们拥有一个非常出色 的设计团队——我想说是英国最好的设计团 队——我们的工匠也是伦敦最杰出的工匠。 他们的工价也不便宜，不过我们不想成 为廉 价品牌。我们制作的珠宝拥有杰出的设计和 至高品质，是最顶级的珠宝。如果对自 己从 事的事业（珠宝）没有深刻的理解，就 做 不到这一点，”尼古拉斯在《Luxury News Online》博客采访时说。 每年，品牌都会推出几个系列，以质优而 珍稀为卖点。“我们专注于设计和制作经典珠 宝系列，如 Raindance、Waterfall 和 Roulette 系 列，当然还制作独立首饰，都是用最顶级、稀 有的宝石制作，”尼古拉斯表示，没有比谈论 团队正在制作的新产品更让他开心的事了。 “我 们 会 赏 鉴 每 件 首 饰 ， 找 出 有 待 改 善 的 地 方 。 我 们 在 细 节 方 面 投 入 了 很 多 精 力 。”

stores were old-fashioned and our shop windows were crammed with everything, including the kitchen sink. We weren’t making any money,” Michael Wainwright admitted to Real Business in 2008. They stopped selling all watch brands, except for one, Patek Philippe, which for Nicholas is “arguably the best watch in the world”.

From there, the main business strategy was creating their own pieces, and always taking the highest quality standards into consideration. “We decided we wanted to make the finest jewellery we possibly could to compete on the world stage. You can’t be independent

Essential JEWELLERY

品牌受到伦敦维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆 （Victoria & Albert Museum）邀请，Raindance 系 列中的一条项链将成为博物馆永久珠宝展展 出 作 品 ，就 是 肯 定 其 匠 心 工 作 的 最 有 力 明 证。2014 年，世界各地两百多万观众观看了 纪录片《百万英镑项链：透视博德尔斯》 （The Million Pound Necklace: Inside Boodles），该 片 讲述了博德尔斯的幕后故事，以及品牌创作 一条项链时从选择宝石到设计、再到项链制 作和发布的整个过程。 除 了 推 出 不 同 的 珠 宝 系 列 外 ，品 牌 还 致 力于组织各类活动，如博德尔斯网球挑战赛 和博德尔斯拳击舞会，从而逐渐成为赞助英 国及国际运动及社交盛事的领军品牌。 如今，品牌在英国共有 110 位雇员和 9 间 店 铺 ，包 括 伦 敦 的 5 间 店 铺 （分 别 位 于 萨 沃 伊酒店、新邦德街、斯隆街、皇家交易所和 哈罗德百货），英国西北部的 3 间店铺（位于 曼彻斯特、利物浦和切斯特）以及爱尔兰都 柏林的一间店铺，可以说博德尔斯现在还留 守 故 土 。“过 去 10 年 间 ，我 们 用 了 大 部 分 时 间调研到哪里开设第一间海外大店。好像是 时候这么做了，但我们在今年年初决定现在 还不是时候，可能还要再等上一段时间，因 为我们还需要做更多的工作透过伦敦来拓展 我们的国际客户群，”詹姆斯·阿莫斯（James Amos）在《每日电讯报》去年夏天的采访中补 充道。“来伦敦的国际游客数量呈巨幅增长， 我们在这里有很强大的平台。” 由 于 公 司 已 经 传 承 了 几 代 人 ，不 同 辈 的 远见卓识帮助我们克服了许多困难，如今， 博 德 尔 斯 是 个 少 有 的 成 功 范 例 ，营 业 额 高 达 4,500 万英镑。 쐽

and flexible when you sell other people’s products. As a family we’ve always understood jewellery, and my son Jody and nephew James are now the sixth generation to work in the business. We travel the world buying gemstones. We’ve got a wonderful design team – I would say the best in the country – and we have the best craftsmen in London. They’re not the cheapest but we don’t want to be cheap.

We make the best jewellery with really good designs and high-quality standards. You can’t do it unless you know what you’re doing,” said Nicholas to the same blog.

Every year, the brand launches several collections whose main pillars are quality and singularity. “We focus on designing and making iconic collections of jewellery such as the Raindance, Waterfall and Roulette collections, as well as of course individual special pieces of jewellery that are set with the best gemstones around,” stated Nicholas, who says he loves nothing more than talking about the new creations his team has put together. “We’ll look at each piece individually and see what possible improvements can be made. We place a lot of focus on attention to detail.” A testament to that was the invitation made by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London to take part in its permanent jewellery exhibition with a ring from the Raindance collection. In 2014, the documentary “The Million Pound Necklace: Inside Boodles”, seen by more than 2 million viewers the world over, showed the behind-the-

scenes of Boodles and the entire creation process of a necklace, from the stone selection to the design, creation and launch.

Along with the various collections launched, the brand has also committed itself to organising events that have made them a leader on the national and international scene, such as the Boodles Tennis Challenge and the Boodles Boxing Ball.

Now with 110 employees and nine spaces in the UK, including five stores in London (Savoy Hotel, New Bond Street, Sloane Street, The Royal Exchange and Harrods), three in the northwest of England (Manchester, Liverpool and Chester) and one in Dublin, Ireland, for the time being, Boodles is staying on home soil.

“We spent much of the past 10 years working out where we were going to open our first major international shop. It felt like the right time to do it, but we decided at the beginning of this year that it’s not the right thing to do now and may not be for a while, as we need to do more work to build up our international customer base through London,” added James Amos in an interview with The Telegraph last summer. “The growth in international visitor numbers to London has been significant and we have a strong platform here.”

After surpassing some obstacles thanks to the visionary spirit of the different generations who have passed through the company, today, Boodles is a rare success story, with a turnover of £45 million. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 53

Essential CAR

歌 颂生 活 Celebration of life 阿 尔法罗 密欧 4C Spider 是 只有 意大 利 人 才 能 打 造 的 艺 术 杰 作 ， 也 是一 款堪 称意 外惊 喜 的 汽 车 The Alfa Romeo 4C Spider is a work of art that only the Italians could have created. The fact that it is also a car is simply a bonus 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

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Essential CAR

毫

无疑问，汽车正逐渐进化为加大版计 算机，花样繁多的技术让人感觉它们 是从几十年前的科幻电影中直接跳出来的 一样，足以带给驾驶者重重惊喜 专 家 们 认 为 ，汽 车 是 人 们 倾 心 向 往 和 梦 寐以求的爱物这种情怀，将成昨日黄花一去 不复返，而且汽车将随着自动驾驶汽车和城 市一体化的发展而逐渐消失。 但 有 时 候 ，有 人 会 想 起 把 未 来 先 放 到 一 边，只关注当下。总的来说，这些关注当下的 品牌包括法拉利、兰博基尼、帕加尼，甚至还 有保时捷……但阿尔法罗密欧（Alfa Romeo） 呢 ？ 这 个 来 自 阿 雷 塞 ，拥 有 纯 粹 汽 车 热 情 的意大利品牌凭什么来傲视群侪呢？ 这 杀 手 锏 就 是 阿 尔 法 罗 密 欧 4C 或 4C Spider，它是目前全球各地无论任何品牌任何 代理商在售车型中最最迷人的汽车。阿尔法 罗密欧过去三十年间并没有推出激动人心的 车型，4C 作为品牌再次崛起的荣耀车款而诞

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here is no doubt that cars are becoming larger versions of computers, able to surprise its users with a plethora of technological solutions that seem to have been taken directly from the sci-fi films of a few decades ago.

The car as an object of passion and desire, according to experts, is a thing of the past and will start to disappear as autonomous cars and urban integration take shape.

But every so often, and ever rarer, someone remembers to put the future to one side and focus on the present. In general, these occasions carry the emblem of Ferrari, or Lamborghini, or Pagani, or even sometimes Porsche…but an Alfa Romeo? What audacity is this from the Arese manufacturer to want to compete with the greats for the purest motoring passion?

Well, that audacity is called the Alfa Romeo 4C, or 4C Spider, and it’s the most stunning car

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 55

Essential CAR

生，是一件移动的艺术雕像，既歌颂品牌 设 计的流金岁月，又向世界证明廉颇未老。 阿 尔 法 罗 密 欧 4C 采 用 100%碳 纤 维 底 盘 — — 真 正 的 F1 风 格 ，涡 轮 增 压 发 动 机 输 出 功 率 达 到 240 马 力 ，重 量 仅 为 900 公 斤 ，其 性 能 让 人 叹 为 观 止 ，起 步 加 速 到 100 公 里 / 小时只要 4 秒。这款汽车没有动力转向，搭 配 6 速自动变速器，位于方向盘后侧的自动 换挡拨片，碳纤维驾驶舱，处处带给驾驶者 无与伦比的醉人动力体验。的确，如果只做 交通工具，阿尔法罗密欧 4 C 不是最佳选择； 它远远超越于此，它是对生活、对渴望、对 热情的歌颂，是懂得最淋漓尽致地享受生活 乐趣的意大利及意大利人民的象征。 驾 驶 阿 尔 法 罗 密 欧 4C Spider 能 让 人 深 深 体会到，世界是多么美妙，人类竟然可以超 越自己创造出如此美丽的东西。La vita é bella （美丽人生）因为 4 C 而更加美丽。 쐽 56 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential CAR

on sale at any concession of any brand anywhere in the world. Created to be a relaunch halo car for Alfa Romeo after three decades of uninspired models, the 4C is a mobile sculpture that celebrates the brand’s glorious past in terms of design and proves that those in the know never forget.

On a 100% carbon fibre chassis, in true Formula 1 style, a turbocharged engine packing 240 horsepower and a featherweight of under 900kg, the 4C offers phenomenal performances, corroborated by the four seconds it takes to hit 100km/h. With no power-steering, an automatic six-speed transmission with autoshift on the wheel and a carbon fibre cockpit where only the driver matters, the driving experience is intoxicating and completely one of a kind. No, the 4C isn’t the perfect car to get from A to B; it’s much better than that: it is a celebration of life, of desire, of passion, a reflection of a country and the people that have always looked to experience the greatest everyday pleasures to the max.

Driving a 4C Spider is a reminder that the world can be a wonderful place, and that mankind has the ability to create things so beautiful that they transcend themselves. La vita é bella. Even more so with a 4C. 쐽

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意大 利卓 越 品牌 强 强 联 手 A double dose of Italian excellence 宝格 丽携手 玛莎拉 蒂 联合发 布 两款全 新 腕 表 Bulgari and Maserati launch two new watches 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

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Essential WATCHES

S

ince 2012, Bulgari and Maserati have been moving forward together in celebrating the best of mechanical excellence.

Leaders in their sectors, year after year, they have been presenting pieces that reflect the prestige, elegance and design that sets them both apart. The two new Octo Maserati by Bulgari watches are further proof that this is the perfect marriage.

Octo Maserati GranSport and Octo Maserati GranLusso reveal the best of Italian savoir faire, embellishing each pulse with style and sophistication. With clear references to the car brand, these two special editions with self-winding movement feature the calibre BVL 262, displaying retrograde minutes and jumping hours.

Water-resistant up to 100 metres, they also have a power reserve of 42 hours. The Gran Sport emerges with a 41mm stainless steel case treated with diamond-like carbon, a transparent case back and a crown with ceramic insert. The dial is black lacquer with hand-applied indexes, and the leather strap has a stainless steel deploying buckle.

The GrandLusso model also reveals a 41mm case, but in 18k rose gold, and a transparent case back. It presents a ceramic-set crown and a dark grey dial. The strap is also in leather, with a rose gold deploying buckle. 쐽

自

2012 年起，意大利两大奢侈品牌宝格 丽（Bulgari）和玛莎拉蒂（Maserati）携 手前行，礼赞最杰出的机械工艺。作为各自 领 域 的 领 航 者 ，两 个 品 牌 每 年 推 出 腕 表 作 品，彰显尊贵、奢华、优雅和设计。宝格丽此 次 发 布 的 两 款 全 新 Octo Maserati 腕 表 再 次 证 明两个品牌的合作堪称天作之合。 Octo Maserati GranSport 腕 表 和 Octo Maserati GranLusso 洋 溢 着 意 大 利 卓 绝 工 艺 ， 时尚迷人。腕表让人联想到玛莎拉蒂跑车元 素。两款腕表都搭载自动上链机芯 BVL 262， 分钟逆行显示，小时透过视窗瞬跳显示。 腕表拥有 100 米防水功能，动力储存长达 42 小时。Octo Maserati GranSport 单逆跳腕表 采用 41 毫米、经过类钻碳涂层的精钢表壳， 透明表底盖和饰有陶瓷的旋入式表冠。黑漆 表 盘 上 手 工 镶 贴 数 字 ，一 体 式 真 皮 表 带 搭 配精钢折叠式表扣。 Octo Maserati GranLusso 腕 表 采 用 41 毫 米 18K 玫 瑰 金 表 壳 ，透 明 表 底 盖 和 陶 瓷 表 冠 ， 以及深灰色表盘。腕表真皮表带搭配玫瑰金 折叠式表扣。 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 59

有 型有 格 Form follows fashion

摄影 PHOTOGRAPHY ANA VIEGAS 制作及助理 PRODUCTION SUSANA MARQUES PINTO (WWW.PULPFASHION.PT), ASSISTED BY BEATRIZ CLEMENTE 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DEN BERG (WWW.SKINLIFE.PT) WITH BY TERRY PRODUCTS (美妆产品：BY TERRY) 发型 HAIR HELENA VAZ PEREIRA FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PRODUCTS（美发产品：巴黎欧莱雅专业美发） 模特 MODEL MADELENE NORD (ELITE LISBON)

衬衫 Shirt: Sacai 半身裙 Skirt: 赛琳 Céline

长裤 Trousers: Nuno Baltazar 手袋 Bag: 赛琳 Céline 凉鞋 Sandals: 吉安维托·罗西 Gianvito Rossi

夹克 Jacket: Alexandra Moura 衬衫 Shirt: Joseph 半身裙 Skirt: J.W.安德森 JW Anderson 鞋 Shoes: 尼可拉斯·科克伍德 Nicholas Kirkwood

长风衣 Trench: Cos 衬衫 Shirt: MSGM 鞋 Shoes: 赛琳 Céline

上装 Top: Carlos Gil 衬衫 Shirt: Cos

背心 Waistcoat: Alexandra Moura 长衫 Tunic: Nuno Baltazar

长衫 Tunic: Cos 裤子 Trousers: Inês Torcato 手链 Bracelet: 赛琳 Céline 凉鞋 Sandals: 路易斯·奥诺弗雷 Luís Onofre

衬衫 Shirt: 斯特拉·麦卡特尼 Stella McCartney 宽松裤 Trousers: Alexandra Moura 鞋 Shoes: 赛琳 Céline

上衣 Top: 迪奥 Dior 衬衫 Shirt: Diogo Miranda 连衣裙 Dress: Cos

Essential TRENDS

模 棱两 可 Ambiguous feelings 潘 通 2018 年度色 彩 是紫外 光 18-3838。紫 色 代 表独 创个 性 、细腻 情 绪以及 对 神 秘宇 宙 的 思考 ， 更与神 学 、魔法 、 女 性主 义和 同 性恋 运 动有着 密 切联系 ， 而 人们 对 这 种 色 彩也有 着 不同感 受 Ultra-Violet 18-3838 is the colour of the year, according to Pantone. There are mixed feelings about this colour that represents originality, sentiment, reflection and the mysteries of the cosmos, without forgetting the strong link to theology, magic, feminism and the gay movement 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

充

满 争 议 、 广 受 “痛 恨 ”的 紫色总能引起爱憎分明的 对 话 。融 合 了 红 与 蓝 、阳 刚 与 阴 柔、肉欲与灵性，这是代表着对立 元素的颜色。实际上，正是这些两 极 元 素 的 糅 合 ，造 就 了 紫 色 的 象 征 意 义 。在 古 典 时 代 ，当 时 被 称 为 “Purpur”的 紫 色 与 统 治 和 权 力 阶 层 密 切相关，也因其与权力渗透的联系而 代表着暴力。德国作家伊娃·海勒是色 彩研 究专家，她曾解释过法语、意大利 语、德语和英语等若干语言中紫丁香与紫 罗 兰 两 个 词 语 的 关 系 ，而 两 个 词 的 词 根 与 “暴 力 （ ” violence）一 词 均 有 联 系 。有 趣 的 是 ， 当身体承受攻击时，皮肤的反应也是随之改 变颜色，先红而后紫，再变瘀黑…… 德国备受尊敬的政治家和作家歌德（1749 年 －1832 年）对色彩有着特别兴趣，而在其于 1810 年出版的作品《论色彩学》中，他将洋 红色称为“红紫色”，并观察到“尽管我们十分 清楚古代对紫色的定义更偏向于蓝调，但我 们仍曾将（偏红的洋红）称为‘Purpur’（紫色） 以兹分辨”。不同社会及文化对紫罗兰色或紫 色的解读都有所区别。紫色与神学的关系在 主教和牧师的长袍上均有体现，他们正式场 合所穿的法袍是主教色（紫色），而这种颜色 来 源 正 是 “Purpur”（ 紫 色 ）。这 种 代 表 世 俗 王 权的颜色，在教会的解读中是代表着永恒与 正义的颜色，也是神圣与信仰的颜色。 喜 欢 穿 着 紫 色 的 人 们 享 受 他 人 注 视 ，喜 欢引人注目的感觉。比起红色，紫色也是更 肉欲的颜色，而这也蕴含了这种色彩的历史。 王尔德曾将不被世俗所认可的情欲称为 74 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

C

ontroversial and largely “hated”, violet is a subject of discussion between those for and against. It is the colour of opposites: the union of red and blue; of masculine and feminine; of sensuality and spirituality. Indeed, it is the union of these opposites that determines the symbolism of the colour violet. In Classic Antiquity, it was associated to those who governed, to power, known then as purpur, also linked to violence because of its association with the instilled power. Eva Heller, an expert in the study of colour, explains the relation of the words lilac and violet in several languages, such as in French, Italian, German and English, whose roots of the words are interlinked with the word violence. Curiously, when the body suffers an aggression, the skin reacts by changing colour: at first impact, red, then transitioning to lilac/violet/purple, then black…

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), the German statesman and writer, had a particular interest in colour, and in his book Theory of Colours, originally published in 1810, the author refers to magenta as “red purple”, observing the fact that “we have called this colour ‘purpur’ by way of distinction, although we are quite aware that the purple of the ancients inclined more to blue”. The colour violet or purple differs in interpretation depending on the societies and their culture. The connection of this colour with theology is evident in the robes of bishops and priests, whose cassocks in official acts are ecclesiastical purple, with their origins

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Essential TRENDS

“灰 色 时 间 里 的 紫 色 时 光 ”。 英 国 诗 人 济 慈 （1975 年－1821 年）也创作了描述“充满甜蜜 之罪的紫色宫殿”的诗歌《拉弥亚》。紫色融 合了阳刚与阴柔气质，也只有紫色才同时象 征 着 同 性 恋 。当 同 性 恋 仍 是 禁 忌 并 为 世 人 所 鄙 时 ， 紫 色 衬 衣 与 方 巾 是 “圈 内 人 ”用 以 识别彼此的暗号。此外，紫色也是属于女性 主义之色彩。 人称国际色彩大师的潘通色彩研究所执 行总裁利埃特里斯·艾斯曼在该公司的官方 新闻稿中表示，我们需要“探索新科技以及更 遥远的星际，实现艺术上的表达以及灵性上 的思考”，而“直观的紫外光色则照亮未知未 来”。潘通强调了紫色反主流文化、反传统以 及充满艺术气质的象征意义，并以吉他手吉 米·亨德里克斯、英国摇滚乐先驱大卫·鲍 伊以及美国传奇音乐家“王子”等人建立的形 象为例子，他们选择为自己定义自我，用紫 外光色调在西方流行文化中反映自己的独特 个性。2017 年，为了向逝世近两年的美国歌 手王子致敬，潘通以其经典名曲《紫雨》为 灵感，创造了一种独特的全新紫色色调，向 世人带来一种新的色彩。 쐽

lying in purpur. The colour of temporal power, in ecclesiastical interpretation, is the colour of eternity and justice, the colour of the divine and of faith.

Those who wear violet like to draw attention, stand out from the crowd. Violet is more sexual than red, and that’s where the history of the colour resides. Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) called forbidden sexuality “the purple hours of grey time”. And John Keats (1975-1821) created fantasies about “that purplelined palace of sweet sin”. Violet combines the masculine and the feminine; no other colour symbolises homosexuality so well. When it was still punished and scorned, lilac-coloured shirts and violet foulards were discreet signs of recognition between “those in the know”. Violet is also the colour of feminism.

Pantone explains the need for “exploring new technologies and the greater galaxy to artistic expression and spiritual reflection”, and “intuitive Ultra Violet lights the way to what is yet to come”, explains Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, in the compayn’s official press release. The company reinforces the fact that this colour has a symbolism of counter-culture, of the anticonventional and of artistic shine, and as an example, recalls the image developed by artists such as Jimi Hendrix, David Bowie and Prince, who chose it to define themselves, to reflect their individuality in Western pop culture through shades of the Ultra Violet family. In 2017, Pantone introduced a new colour. It created a distinctive new purple shade in homage to the American singer who died almost two years ago, in reference to his classic song ‘Purple Rain’. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 79

Essential PERFUME

感 悟 芳香 Scent enlightenment 全球最 古老的蜡 烛 品牌 Cire Trudon 业 已 进 军 香 水 界 ， 品牌 首 个香水 系 列已经 问 世 Cire Trudon, the oldest candle house in the world, has ventured into the world of perfumes. Now it presents its first fragrance line 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

如

果悠久的历史是许多品牌骄傲的资 本 ， 对 此 ， 成 立 于 1643 年 的 Trudon 更无需多言了，它是世界上最古老的蜡烛生 产 商 。Trudon 的 历 史 要 回 溯 到 很 久 之 前 了 ， Claude Trudon 在 巴 黎 圣 奥 诺 雷 路 （Rue SaintHonoré）上 开 了 间 杂 货 店 还 兼 造 蜡 烛 。法 国 国王路易十四及其宫廷是其主要客户之一， 该店也因此名声大振。在旧王朝时代，Trudon 80 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

因为良好的声誉，深受上层社会的追捧。 拿破仑加冕后，品牌依旧是法国皇室御用的 蜡烛供应商。虽然（工业）革命带给蜡烛行业最 大的冲击（19 世纪晚期电力的大规模使用）， 蜡烛的地位依旧稳固。 进入 21 世纪初，2007 年，公司更名为 Cire Trudon，专 注 于 制 作 香 薰 蜡 烛 。同 年 ，品 牌 在 塞 纳 河 左 岸 的 圣 日 耳 曼 德 佩 区 （ Saint

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f age is a source of pride for many brands, what to say of Trudon, which has been active since 1643, being the world’s oldest manufacturer of its kind? It was in that far-back year that Claude Trudon established himself on Rue Saint- Honoré in Paris as a grocers and candlemaker. As it turns out, it was the candles that brought recognition to the house, with Louis XV

Essential PERFUME

Germain-des-Prés），开设了第一间精品店。七 年后，品牌又在塞纳河右岸，巴黎著名的购物 圣地玛莱区（Le Marais）设立另一间精品店。 如 今 ，品 牌 共 有 七 间 精 品 店 面 向 大 众 开 放 （巴 黎 共 有 四 间 店 铺 ，其 他 三 精 品 店 设 在 纽 约、首尔和伦敦）。 Cire Trudon 充 分 利 用 其 在 香 薰 蜡 烛 制 作 方面的卓绝经验和品牌的杰出声誉，决定在 今 年 进 军 香 水 界 ， 打 造 全 新 品 牌 Maison Trudon，并推出一个男女皆宜的香水系列，系 列由五款香水组成。品牌邀请到 Antoine Lie、 Yann Vasnier 及 Lyn Harris 三位名扬四海的香 水大师打造此香水系列。法国香水大师 Antoine Lie 和 Yann Vasnier 分别打造了 Bruma 和 Mortel 香水。英国香水大师 Lyn Harris 则研 发了另外三款香水：Olim、Deux 及 Révolution。 虽 然 品 牌 的 历 史 悠 久 深 厚 ，在 创 意 总 监 Julien Provost 统 率 之 下 ，Trudon 还 是 选 择 以 现代手法打造出主题与品牌传统相一致的 香水产品。 쐽

and his court as one of its main clients. Despite being a favourite of the aristocracy, the candlemaker (already with an established reputation) survived the Ancient Regime and, when Napoleon was crowned, it was still the Trudon house that supplied the French imperial court.

Even upon the revolution, which had the biggest repercussions in this field – the arrival of electricity in the late 19th century –, wax remained firm.

Fast-forward to the early 21st century, in 2007, the company changed its name to Cire Trudon and became exclusively dedicated to making scented candles. In the same year, it opened its first boutique in Saint Germain-desPrés, on the left bank of the river Seine. It opened another seven years later, this time on the right bank, in the Le Marais neighbourhood.

Today, the house has a total of seven shops open

to the public (another two in Paris and the rest in New York, Seoul and London).

Making the most of its experience acquired as a scented candle-maker and its excellent reputation, this year, the brand decided to venture out into the world of perfumery by creating a new brand, Maison Trudon, and launching a line comprising five unisex fragrances. To achieve this, it invited three master perfumers who have proven their worth: Antoine Lie, Yann Vasnier and Lyn Harris. The first two created Bruma and Mortel, respectively, while the English perfumer is responsible for the three other products: Olim, Deux and Révolution.

Despite the advanced years of the house, whose creative director is Julien Provost, they opted for a modern approach but still with themes in-keeping with the tradition of the brand. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 81

Essential BEAUTY

一步妆前眼唇底霜

Step 1 Eye & Lip Primer

现代女性总免不了奔波忙碌，所以对 她们而言，速度和效率非常重要。 2018 年，玫珂菲（Make Up For Ever）打 造全新 STEP 1 EYE & LIP Primer 妆前眼 唇霜喱，作为品牌首款眼、唇两用底 妆产品，对眼影和唇妆具有长达 24 小 时的持妆能力。此款啫喱质地舒适， 能最大程度遮挡眼唇部位的细纹和瑕 疵，瞬间呈现润滑肌肤。在日常护肤 之后，上妆前使用这款这的效果最佳。

Modern ladies are always very busy, so speed and efficiency are very important to them. In 2018, Make Up For Ever creates new STEP 1 EYE & LIP Primer, its first primer that works both on eyelids and lips to make eye shadows and lipstick stay put up to 24 hours. This comfortable gel can minimise the appearance of fine wrinkles and imperfections with an instantly visibly smoothing effect. For best results, apply after skincare and before makeup.

迪奥焕彩诱惑唇膏 2009 年，迪奥（Dior）首款彩色润唇膏 Dior Lip Glow 诱惑焕彩润唇膏诞生。这款 浅色润唇膏是现代女性人手必备的产品。 如今，品牌润唇膏家族又迎来 10 位新成 员，以清新诱人的全新色彩展现女性全 新面貌。重要的是，唇润效果完美实现 女性美唇不同需要。 诱惑焕彩润唇膏系列包括两个全新色彩： 俏梅红和少女粉；呈现两个全新效果： 哑光效果(这是迪奥的首款柔色哑光唇膏)， 以及全息光——当今流行的全息技术斑斓 质地，完美结合润唇质地与彩妆妆效。 超模 Bella Hadid 也再次倾情演绎了迪奥 彩妆的全新广告大片。

Addicted to the Glow In 2009, Dior Lip Glow, the House of Dior’s first colour reviver lip balm, was created. This indispensable tinted balm is a must-have for modern ladies; this renowned family welcomes 10 new members, revealing new facets with fresh and delectable new shades, but above all, new finishes in response to what women want.

Boasting two new Glow shades, Raspberry and Ultra Pink, two new finishes, Matte Glow, the first soft matte balm by Dior, and Holo Glow, an iridescent texture in the holographic trend of today, the Dior Lip Glow showcases a fantastic combination of lip care and make-up.

In the new campaign for Dior Make-up, top model Bella Hadid is once again on familiar ground.

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圣罗兰衣帽间香水系列 著名时尚品牌圣罗兰（Yves Saint Laurent）以其干练利落、巴黎风尚、双性设计、摇滚前卫 的风格而闻名遐迩。品牌曾推出过许多经典永恒的服装，受到这些经典服装——Tuxedo （晚礼服）、Trench（风衣）、Saharienne（撒哈拉狩猎外套）、Caban（卡班）及 Caftan （长衫）——的启 发，圣罗兰推出了 全新的 Le Vestiaire Des Parfums 香水 衣帽间系列。 香水衣帽间系列包 含五款高定香水， 洋溢着品牌最极致 气息，典雅魅惑。 每款香水都大量采 用了稀有且极为珍 贵的香料，如广藿 香、橙花-白麝香、 柑橘-鸢尾、焚香-安 息香及粉胡椒-香豆 等，时刻散发圣罗 兰的经典永恒气息。

YSL Le Vestiaire Des Parfums Yves Saint Laurent is an iconic fashion label known for its polished, Parisian chic, androgyny and rock and roll edge. The brand has been creating many timeless garments. Inspired by five centrepieces of the brand - Tuxedo, Trench, Saharienne, Caban, and Caftan - YSL Beauté creates a brand new Le Vestiaire Des Parfums collection.Five fragrances traced by an ultimate signature and a sophisticated cut of the brand. Haute perfumeries unfolds under the tamed profusion of its rare and most precious ingredients like Patchouli, Neroli-White Musks, Citruses-Iris, Incense-Benzoin, and Pink Pepper-Tonka Bean, showcasing the quintessence of style of Yves Saint Laurent.

Essential BEAUTY

蔻驰男士香水 同特立独行、个性不羁的追求美国梦的男士一样，蔻驰（Coach）推出的 Coach For Men 男士香水是专为拥有叛逆精神的男士打造的全新香氛。 香水前调是绿色沙梨、佛手柑、金橘，主调融合了小豆蔻、芫荽和天竺 葵。香水基调则是散发着大地气息、木香及青草香气的香根草，辅以 麂皮和龙涎香，更为诱人。 香水瓶采用了忧郁迷离的午夜蓝色玻璃瓶，处处展现蔻驰的经典元素： 炮铜色的瓶盖，形状有如一把转锁，与蔻驰包包上的转锁异曲同工； 瓶身上刻有品牌标志性的精巧马车图案，这是蔻驰卓越工艺的永恒标志， 让人想到在纽约以制造马具和皮具起家的品牌传统和历史。

Coach For Men Like an American dreamer who has a maverick spirit, Coach For Men is a brand new fragrance for men with a rebel heart. To start, the top notes are Green Nashi, Bergamot and Kumquat, while at its heart is Cardamom, Coriander, and Geranium. The scent ends with a textured base of vetiver earthy, woody and green - layered with hints of suede and ambergris.

This quality designed fragrance reveals the signature elements of this American House on the moody, midnight blue degradé glass bottle. The gunmetal cap is shaped like a turn lock, referencing the signature clasp on Coach Bags. The horse and carriage, an enduring symbol of Coach craftsmanship that recalls the tradition of leather craftsmen and harness makers in New York, is subtly embossed on the bottle.

馥蕾诗抵御污染 绽放青春色泽 现代女性的肌肤会因污染而老化损伤，馥蕾诗（Fresh）推出一款全新产品——红茶紧致盈透精华液，经过科学证明能够卓绝对抗污染， 保护肌肤，阻止细纹早生。精华液的柔嫩肌肤配方，能够提亮肌肤，淡化细纹，补充水分，让肌肤得到滋养。 红茶紧致盈透精华液荟萃了各种功能强大的配方成分，其中包括红茶酵母精萃，只要一步就能修复肌肤。最为精华液配方的明星成分， 红茶酵母精萃是由两种共生微生物和红茶在发 酵过程中产生的。 “我非常迷恋红茶酵母精萃这种成分，因此想 透过这款精华产品来突显其卓越强大的美颜功 效，”馥蕾诗联合创始人 Lev Glazman 表示。

Pollution Defence & Youthful Luminosity With pollution ageing the skin of modern women, Fresh is thrilled to announce an innovation scientifically proven to protect against pollution and help prevent premature fine lines: Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence.

This silky formula increases luminosity, softens the look of fine lines, and replenishes moisture, Packed full of all the powerhouse ingredients that you would want to repair your skin in one simple step, the essence contains favourites such as Kombucha. The hero ingredient of this essence, is produced through a fermentation process involving the symbiosis of two microorganisms and sweet black tea.

“I was so infatuated with this ingredient I wanted to highlight its immense power on its own,” says Lev Glazman, the Co-founder of Fresh.

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Essential BAZAAR

热烈奔放 巴西风情 丹麦品牌 By Malene Birger 探索巴 西城市圣保罗，打造异域特色的 2018 春夏系列。圣保罗浪漫的异 国情调、活色生香的夜生活及日 益发展的艺术氛围品牌于全新系 列中一一展现。系列主打款式之 一是一件黑色光胶风衣，洋溢着 成熟、性感的女性气息。

艾莉·萨博超卓视野 施华洛世奇迷人腕表 施华洛世奇（Swarovski）2018 春夏 腕表系列，以极简抽象的设计和 闪耀夺目的外形，精湛超凡工艺 和华美大气气质重新演绎品牌史 上一些最著名的系列。其中的 Eternal 腕表，娇美迷人、摩登时 尚，可以搭配出不同风格。表带 和表盘密镶两行施华洛世奇仿水 晶，呈现不对称的闪耀效果。

Sparkling wrist With a minimalist design and luminous silhouettes, the new Spring/Summer 2018 watch collection from Swarovski reinterprets some of the brand’s best-known lines, blending an elegant aesthetic with specialist craftsmanship. A highlight is the Eternal model, with a feminine, modern and versatile style. The strap and dial are decorated with crystal pavé displayed asymmetrically in two rows. www.swarovski.com

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艾莉·萨博（Elie Saab）近期推出 了 2018 春夏眼镜系列，灵感源自 大自然和起伏的海浪。系列眼镜 采用珍贵的 Mazzucchelli 顶级玳 瑁板材和超轻金属框架和金边， 造型优雅成熟。眼镜采用德国蔡 司（Zeiss）镜片，带有轻度镜 像效果和抗反光功能。

Quality vision Elie Saab has presented his latest eyewear collection for Spring/ Summer 2018, whose inspiration is centred on nature and the curves of the ocean’s waves. The feminine, sophisticated profiles are emphasised by the precious Mazzucchelli acetates and the light metal outlines with gold finish. High-quality vision is ensured by the Zeiss lenses, with a light mirror effect and antireflective treatment. www.eliesaab.com

淘气小熊感性珠宝 象征意义是淘气小熊（Tous） Real Jewel 珠宝系列的出发点。 淘气小熊抱持着用珠宝传递信息 的理念，品牌的 2018 春夏系列， 就以款款作品尽情展现珠宝的象 征意义，分享感觉、唤起回忆。 系列中的 Sky Power 耳环就是如 此，耳环重新诠释羽毛形状， 并点缀以多姿多彩的珍贵宝石。

Sentimental jewellery Symbolism is the starting point for the Real Jewel collection from Tous. With the aim of creating jewellery with a message, for Spring/Summer 2018, the brand has presented pieces steeped in significance to share feelings and invoke memories. Proof of that are the Sky Power earrings, which reproduce the form of a simple feather combined with precious stones in various colours. www.tous.com

Inspirational Brazil The label By Malene Birger explores the city of São Paulo to create its latest spring/summer 2018 collection. The exotic atmosphere, the vibrant nightlife and the growing artsy scene are some of the characteristics of the Brazilian city that can be seen in the Danish brand’s new-season designs. One of the key pieces is the vinyl black trench coat, which evokes a sophisticated, sensual and feminine style. www.bymalenebirger.com

Essential BAZAAR

杰尼亚清凉夏日 江诗丹顿卓绝时计 1 月 15 日至 19 日在瑞士日内瓦 举行的日内瓦国际高级钟表展 （SIHH）上，江诗丹顿（Vacheron Constantin）发布两款全新腕表。 第一款 Overseas Dual Time 纵横四 海两地时间腕表采用品牌自家机 芯，在一个智能系统的控制下可 同时显示两个时区的时间。腕表 配有三条可替换的表带/表链，分 别是精钢、真皮和橡胶材质。第 二款腕表是 Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Collection Excellence Platine 铂金珍藏系列之全日历腕 表。腕表以铂金打造，显示完整 的日历，限量发行 100 枚，每枚 腕表都分别刻有序列号。

万宝龙致敬军事 战略之父 豪华书写工具品牌万宝龙 （Montblanc）再次推出 High Artistry 限量版系列。此次，万宝龙致敬 汉尼拔·巴卡（Hannibal Barca） ——古代最伟大的军事统帅和军事 策略家之一。此系列灵感源自罗 马与迦太基的第二次布匿战争 （Second Punic War）中的重要事件。 公元前 218 年，汉尼拔将军率领迦 太基大象兵团成功穿越了阿尔卑斯 山，完成了史无前例的壮举。万宝 龙 High Artistry 限量版系列在系列 四款书写工具上采用大象形笔帽歌 颂此次壮举。系列中的 Hannibal Barca Limited 1 限量版墨水笔，独 一无二，世间仅此一件，白金钻 石材质与密镶蓝宝石辉映，璀璨 夺目、华美高雅。

圣罗兰经典再现

Master of strategy

圣罗兰（Saint Laurent）2018 春夏 男装系列以其经典款式备受瞩 目。品牌创意总监 Antonio Vaccarello 从摇滚、机车界汲取 灵感，大量运用各种黑白色调。 其中一件前拉链设计的纯黑皮 夹克就是绝佳的例子。

Montblanc has presented another High Artistry limited collection.

This time, it pays homage to Hannibal Barca, recognised as one of the finest commanders and military strategists in ancient times. For this, the French maison presents four editions inspired by the main events of the Second Punic War between Carthage and Rome. The epic journey across the Alps with elephants, led by Hannibal in 218 BC, is one of the most significant episodes in this collection, which displays an elephant-shaped cap in its different versions. A particular highlight is the Hannibal Barca Limited 1 edition, a single unique piece that features a stunning combination of white gold and diamonds offset by a pavé of blue sapphires.. www.montblanc.com

Big classics

Watches of excellence Vacheron Constantin presented two new models at the 28th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which took place between January 15-19 in Geneva, Switzerland. The first timepiece, the Overseas Dual Time, is fitted with an in-house movement that allows the simultaneous reading of two time zones, controlled by an intuitive system, and is available with three interchangeable bracelets/straps, in steel, leather or rubber. The second piece is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Collection Excellence Platine.

Made in platinum, it displays a complete calendar and is limited to 100 pieces, each one with its respective serial number. www.vacheron-constantin.com

The classic looks are taking the spotlight in the Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection from Saint Laurent. The creative director Antonio Vaccarello focuses on a colour palette that varies between black and white, drawing on inspirations from the rock and biker worlds. An example is the 100% black leather jacket, with zip-up front. www.ysl.com

意大利高级男装品牌杰尼亚 Ermenegildo Zegna）锐意发布品 牌首个海滩系列。此海滩系列依 旧融合杰尼亚的独特设计和精巧 工艺，包括带防水口袋的平腿泳 裤和定制泳裤、马球衫、一字领 衫、沙滩毛巾等。系列由品牌同 ISA S.p.A 合作研发，部分服装采用 革新材料，如 Microlite 防水、防风 面料和泡泡纱等，超级舒适，洋 溢着最时尚的范儿。

Summer by Zegna Ermenegildo Zegna has decided to launch its first beachwear collection. Recognised for its exclusive clothing, the Italian brand now presents pieces that range from boxer shorts and tailored swimming trunks with waterproof pockets, polos, boat-neck shirts and towels, blending design and craftsmanship in the best possible way. With some focus on innovative materials, such as Microlite and ultralight seersucker, this collection, developed in collaboration with ISA S.p.A, excels in its extreme comfort and its up-to-date character. www.ermenegildozegna.com

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 85

Essential BRAND

与 别 不同 的帽子 Not all hats are created equal 来自 维 也纳的家族制帽 企业 Mühlbauer 已 有 一 百 多 年 的 历 史 ， 它 是 不屈 不 挠的典范，也是个 拥 有辉煌 历 史 的 同 时 却 也 勇 往 直 前 的 品 牌 A Viennese family business producing high-quality hats for more than a century, Mühlbauer is an example of resistance and of a brand with a past that managed to find the path to the future 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

奥

地利首都维也纳拥有世界上最大的中 世纪哥特式大教堂之一，也是闻名遐 迩的音乐之都。著名的多瑙河穿城而过，维 也纳也以戏剧、歌剧和视觉艺术闻名于世。 全球最大的帽子品牌之一——Mühlbauer，就 诞生在维也纳郊外的 Floridsdorf。 朱莉安娜·穆尔鲍尔（Julianna Mühlbauer） 在 1903 年 创 立 的 Mühlbauer，成 为 维 也 纳 帽 86 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

子 文 化 的 标 杆 。 在 Mühlbauer 维 也 纳 总 店 中 ，依 然 能 找 到 丰 富 了 品 牌 理 念 的 丝 丝 历 史痕迹。这个家族企业代代相传，母亲传给 儿 子 （罗 伯 特 ·穆 尔 鲍 尔 ），儿 子 再 传 给 孙 子 （海 因 茨 ·穆 尔 鲍 尔 ），目 前 ，品 牌 已 传 到 创 始 人 曾 孙 克 劳 斯 ·穆 尔 鲍 尔 （ Klaus Mühlbauer）的 手 上 。 品 牌 发 展 过 程 中 也 经 历 了 不 少 波 折 和 起 伏 ，最 艰 难 的 时 候 要 数

I

t is home to one of the biggest medieval gothic cathedrals and is known by many as the City of the Music. Split by the Danube river, an iconic symbol of the city, Vienna is also synonymous with theatre, opera and visual arts.

It was in the suburbs of the Austrian capital, in Floridsdorf, that Mühlbauer was born, one of the largest hat brands today.

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 87

Essential JEWELLERY

1970 年 代 ， 但 品 牌 还 是 努 力 渡 过 了 帽 子 行 业发展中的最大危机。 2001 年 ，海 因 茨 似 乎 厌 倦 了 极 其 艰 难 的 市场条件，他警告儿子自己打算结束生意。 克 劳 斯 并 没 有 无 动 于 衷 ，而 是 接 管 了 公 司 。 当时他已经在公司里学习了两年。他喜欢制 作 帽 子 ，甚 至 打 造 了 一 个 帽 子 系 列 在 巴 黎 展示。但是由于当时正值盛年的他，考虑到 （继续经营家族生意）可能要与父母一起生活 工作二、三十年，于是想改变自己的生活轨 迹 。他 决 定 学 习 经 济 ，后 来 他 承 认 自 己 很 讨 厌 那 个 学 习 环 境 。他 的 心 崇 尚 创 作 自 由 ， 与 比 较 封 闭 的 大 学 生 活 心 态 格 格 不 入 。虽 说 如 此 ，他 还 是 完 成 了 学 业 ，进 入 瓦 尔 德 （Waldviertel）的 纺 织 行 业 工 作 ，他 分 别 在 生 产、营销和产品设计部工作过。三年后，当 他父亲通知他将结束家族生意时，他收 到 了 一 间 德 国 大 时 装 公 司 的 工 作 邀 请 。“我 让 父亲等等，让我考虑一下，”克劳斯·穆尔鲍 尔在 2013 年的一次采访中回忆道。

88 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 20178 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

The hatmakers was founded in 1903 by Julianna Mühlbauer and became a reference in the culture of Viennese hats. In its main store in the city of Vienna, one can still find vestiges of that history that greatly enrich its concept.

Passed down from generation to generation, from mother to son (Robert Mühlbauer) and from son to grandson (Heinz Mühlbauer), the business is currently in the hands of the greatgrandson, Klaus Mühlbauer. With a journey of ups and downs, it was in the 1970s that the company had the most difficulties, yet it still managed to survive the big crisis that the hat industry was experiencing.

In 2001, and seemingly tired of an extremely difficult market, Heinz warned his son of his intention of closing doors. Klaus, however, was not unmoved and took over the family business.

He had already spent some time there in a learning process that lasted two years. He liked it,

and even created a hat collection that he exhibited in Paris. However, in the prime of his life, the possibility of having to spend 20 or 30 years with his parents, at home and at work, made him change his course at the time. He decided to study economy in an environment he admits he hated. The freedom of creativity that had already won him over wasn’t in line with the more closed mentality of university life. Nevertheless, he finished his course and went on to work in the textile industry, in Waldviertel, where he spent time in the production, marketing and product design departments. Three years later, just as his father told him of the imminent closure of business, he got a job offer from a large fashion company in Germany. “I asked my father to wait a bit and let me think,” said Klaus Mühlbauer in an interview in 2013.

As the saying goes, “the prodigal son returns home”, and Klaus took over the company. Back

Essential BRAND

常言道，“浪子回家”，克劳斯开始接手经 营 Mühlbauer。回到维也纳，他重新设定品牌 的全盘理念，重新进行市场定位，并且追本 溯 源 ，秉 承 初 衷 。“我 知 道 ，一 定 要 设 计 新 帽子。可不管如何，我深信要让公司归本溯 源 。具 有 个 人 特 色 的 帽 子 是 让 我 们 公 司 独 一无二、脱颖而出的关键因素。” 除 了 设 计 更 吸 引 年 轻 人 的 新 产 品 外 ，克 劳斯沿用了品牌一百多年来的手工制帽工 序 。另 外 国 际 化 也 是 他 带 领 公 司 迈 入 正 轨 的重要一步。在一个像奥地利这样的小国， 克劳斯明白（生意）蓬勃发展很难。调整策 略和国际视野非常重要。 现 在 ，Mühlbauer 帽 子 有 一 多 半 都 销 往 国 外市场，在数不清的国际知名商场出售，如

in Vienna, he redesigned the whole concept of the brand, repositioning it on the market yet still taking it back to its origins. “I knew there had to be new hats. Regardless of anything, I was convinced in taking the company back to its original roots. Our hats with a personal signature were the elements that made our company so unique.”

Along with the new creations, with a more appealing design that would catch the attention of younger people, he maintained an artisanal process that was over a century old. Internationalisation was another important step in taking the brand in the right direction. In a market as small as Austria’s, Klaus knew it would be hard to flourish. A change of strategy and an international vision was needed.

Today, more than half of Mühlbauer hats are shipped from Vienna to foreign markets, and can be found in countless internationally renowned stores, such as Le Bon Marché and

Merci in Paris, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Seul, and Isetan and HP France in Tokyo. Alongside those sales points are two flagship stores in Vienna.

Designed following a contemporary line, Mühlbauer hats are made entirely by hand using traditional craftsmanship techniques. “The fascination for making hats lies in designing for the most visible part of the human body, the head. The combination of sure instinct and know-how can result in true wonders of creation: endowing style and identity.”

Besides the high quality standards that define the brand, the various collaborations with renowned international designers, such as Vanessa Bruno and Human Made by Nigo, have contributed to conquering more and more admirers the world over. Along with its two collections launched every year, Mühlbauer also offers a bespoke service, with made-to-measure hats according to the client’s preferences. 쐽

巴 黎 的 乐 蓬 马 歇 百 货 （Le Bon Marché）和 梅 西 百 货 （Merci）、香 港 的 夏 菲 尼 高 （Harvey Nichols）、首 尔 的 10 Corso Como、东 京 的 伊 势 丹 （Isetan）和 HP France 等 。此 外 ，公 司 在维也纳还设有两间旗舰店。 Mühlbauer 帽 子 设 计 遵 循 当 代 风 格 ，采 用 传 统 工 艺 技 巧 ，完 全 手 工 制 作 。“制 作 帽 子 让人着迷之处在于，我们是为人体最为人注 意的头部进行设计。准确的直觉和卓越的技 能才能造就真正让人赞叹的作品，为戴帽者 增添风格与个性。” 除 了 以 高 品 质 为 标 准 外 ，品 牌 还 同 法 国 时 装 设 计 师 凡 妮 莎 ·布 鲁 诺 (Vanessa Bruno)、 日本潮流设计品牌 Human Made by Nigo 等许 多知名的国际设计界达人进行各种合作，以 优雅的帽子征服了世界各地越来越多的粉 丝。Mühlbauer 每年推出两个系列，还提供定 制服务，根据客户的喜好量头定制帽子。 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 89

Essential TRAVEL

高 山上的 别 致 度假胜地 Alpine chic 位 于法 国 萨瓦的 梅 杰夫村 是 20 世 纪 早 期 深 受 法 国 贵 族钟 爱的 冬 日度假 胜 地，迷 人 的 米其 林三 星餐 厅 Flocons de Sel（ 盐之花 ） 也位 处此 地 The winter playground of French aristocrats in the early 20th century, the Savoyard village of Megève is also the setting of the enchanting Flocons de Sel 文/by CRISTINA ALCOCK

风

景如画的梅杰夫村（Megève）虽然依旧 被誉为欧洲滑雪界的“隐秘瑰宝”，但 其 实 从 1920 年 代 起 ，它 就 已 是 高 端 度 假 者 强 烈 推 荐 的 休 闲 胜 地 了 。梅 杰 夫 之 所 以 有 今 天 这 样 的 盛 名 ，都 要 归 功 于 罗 斯 柴 尔 德 （ Rothschild） 家 族 。 1920 年 代 早 期 ， 他 们 似乎对座落在瑞士的滑雪胜地圣莫里茨 （St. Moritz）深感失望，于是开始在冬季前往 法国上萨瓦省（Haute Savoie）的小村庄梅杰夫 度假。由于罗斯柴尔德家族在此建造了杰出 的豪华酒店阿尔布瓦山度假村庄园（Domaine du Mont d’Arbois） ，这个足以同圣莫里茨相媲 美的滑雪度假村也开始声名远播。 梅 杰 夫 曾 是 个 依 赖 农 业 的 小 村 庄 ，位 于 法国东南部地区，距离瑞士和意大利边境不 远，如今已经发展成一个充满魅力的度假胜 地，古老的钟楼矗立在半山腰俯瞰着古色古 香的中世纪村庄，狭窄的步行街两侧是高雅 的精品店、漂亮的石头房子和小木屋。同附近 的度假胜地一样，梅杰夫同样坐拥得天独厚 的自然美景，依偎在勃朗峰高原腹地，被群山 环绕，却保留着神秘感。法国东南部地区最幽 静的滑雪道就在这里，300 平方米的滑雪区分 为在三个不同的区域，包括 l’Alpette 滑雪区、 Côte 2000 滑雪区和 Mont d’Arbois 滑雪区。 除了白雪覆盖的群山山顶外，号称“阳光 普 照 之 地 ”的 梅 杰 夫 一 年 四 季 有 各 种 项 目 供 度假者体验。徒步、骑马、爬山、山地骑行、

W

hile it still boasts something of a “hidden gem” status in the European ski scene, the picturesque village of Megève has been the destination du jour of well-heeled holidaymakers since the 1920s. For that we can thank the famous Rothschild family who, apparently disenchanted by the Swiss ski resort of St. Moritz in the early 1900s, began spending their winter holidays in this small village in French Haute Savoie. And so, boosted by the construction of the Rothschilds’ luxury hotel, the Domaine du Mont d’Arbois, the ski resort to rival St Moritz began to take shape.

Located in the south-east of France, close to the Swiss and Italian borders, the former farming village is today a charming resort with a beautifully preserved medieval centre overlooked by a historical church tower, narrow pedestrianized streets with elegant boutiques, pretty stone houses and wooden chalets. Like its neighbouring resorts, Megève enjoys one of the most stunning natural locations, nestled within the Mont Blanc mountain range, but remains relatively off the radar. It is home to some of the region’s most peaceful pistes, with a ski area of more than 300km across three different sections – l’Alpette, Côte 2000 and Mont d’Arbois – of easy woodland runs. 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 91

滑翔伞运动，以及加万湖（Javen）的水上运 动等等，让这里充满各种意想不到的惊喜， 更莫说还有阿尔布瓦山高尔夫球场和一年 一度的梅杰夫国际爵士音乐节。 此 地 拥 有 精 致 典 雅 的 酒 店 ，还 有 多 家 杰 出的水疗中心和餐厅——仅在梅杰夫就有三 家米其林三星餐厅。其中一间名为 Flocons de Sel（盐 之 花 ），自 2012 年 起 ，它 一 直 保 有 米 其 林 三 星 餐 厅 殊 荣 。这 间 餐 厅 堪 称 美 食 天 堂，距离村庄只有几米之遥，老板是法国名 厨伊曼纽尔·雷诺特（Emmanuel Renaut）。 如 今 ，很 少 有 人 能 把 伊 曼 纽 尔 和 克 里 斯 汀 ·雷 诺 特 （Kristine Renaut）这 对 “超 能 92 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

夫 妻 ”同 静 谧 安 详 的 高 山 生 活 联 系 起 来 ，但 事实就是如此。他们夫妻二人在伦敦著名的 Claridge’s 餐厅相识（当时克里斯汀就职于餐 饮 部 ，而 伊 曼 纽 尔 是 餐 厅 主 厨 ），后 来 移 居 到梅杰夫，开了自己的餐厅 Flocons de Sel，这 已经是 20 年前的事了。 起 初 Flocons de Sel 是 梅 杰 夫 村 中 心 唯 一 的 餐 厅 （现 在 改 名 为 Flocons Village 盐 花 村 酒 馆 ），后 来 搬 到 山 腰 上 ，成 为 目 前 的 奢 华 酒店 Flocons de Sel 的一部分。酒店的木屋分 布 在 餐 厅 周 边 的 山 丘 上 。Flocons de Sel 酒 店 已经加盟全球顶级酒店和餐厅品牌罗莱夏朵 （Relais & Châteaux。（该品牌的成员机构均独

But aside from snow-tipped mountains, the sunny resort has plenty of year-round appeal.

Hiking, horse-riding, climbing, mountainbiking, paragliding and watersports on Lake Javen make the most of this land of contrasts, and event highlights include golf tournaments at the Mont d’Arbois course and the annual Megève International Jazz Festival.

The hotels are smart and elegant, complemented by several excellent spas and superb restaurants – there are three Michelin-starred restaurants in Megève alone. One of those restaurants, the holder of 3 stars since 2012, is

Essential TRAVEL

立 经 营 ，既 有 特 色 精 品 酒 店 又 有 美 食 家 餐 厅 ，完 美 结 合 传 统 精 华 与 现 代 创 意 、自 然 魅力与奢华享受，力求传扬真正法兰西 生活精髓）。 Flocons de Sel 酒 店 共 有 6 间 客 房 、3 间 套 房、两间私人小木屋和两个公寓，房间都由 雷诺特夫妇亲自设计，采用了木头、石头和 玻璃元素，配置古典家具，洋溢着现代气息， 为客人营造出家的感觉——当然叹为观止的 高山美景和悦耳的牛铃声，更是让人仿若置 身 世 外 桃 源 。酒 店 还 有 一 个 小 型 水 疗 休 闲 区，设有理疗室、桑拿蒸汽房、恒温室内泳 池和露台按摩浴池。

the gastronomic paradise of Flocons de Sel, the property of French chef Emmanuel Renaut located a few metres above the village.

Now, one might not usually associate the term ‘power couple’ to serene mountain life, but that’s exactly what Emmanuel and Kristine Renaut became after they met at London’s famous Claridge’s (she working in Food & Beverage, he as head chef) and moved to Megève to open Flocons de Sel 20 years ago.

Originally only a restaurant in the village centre (now the Flocons Village bistro), it later

moved further up the mountain to become part of what is now the luxurious Flocons de Sel hotel, a cluster of pretty chalets belonging to the prominent Relais & Châteaux chain.

Elegant yet cosy, with elements of wood, stone and glass blended with classic furniture and modern lines, the hotel’s six rooms, three suites, two private chalets and two apartments were designed personally by Emmanuel and Kristine to be a home away from home – with the bonus of breathtaking mountain views and the tinkling of cow bells. There is also a small spa and relaxation area with treatments rooms, 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 93

Essential TRAVEL

在豪华设施及细致周到的服务上，这间五 星级酒店堪称业界典范。其实提供住宿是在 餐厅基础上延伸出来的：“我们刚开餐厅的时 候，并没有计划提供住宿，但随着时间推移， 我们深信客人希望在这里多呆些时候，所以 得找个地方让他们可以逗留得久一点，好好 享 受 Flocons de Sel 的 氛 围 ，扩 大 成 酒 店 也 就 顺 理 成 章 了 ，” 酒 店 总 经 理 克 里 斯 汀 解 释 说 。 如今，温馨舒适的酒店常年有客人造访， 其中有周末定期从周边城市过来的客人，也 有来自比利时、瑞士、意大利和德国的国外 客人，最近还有客人从上海、东京和香港不 远万里而来。然而，一直由名厨雷诺特主理 的厨房才是 Flocons de Sel 酒店的灵魂所在。 Flocons de Sel 餐厅内饰采用木材，高高的 屋顶，简约的装饰，加上面向非凡壮观群山 94 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

sauna, steam room, heated indoor pool and a hot tub on the terrace.

While the 5-star hotel excels in its luxurious facilities and warm, exemplary service, accommodation was actually an extension of the couple’s original plans: “When we opened the restaurant, we didn’t think right away of having rooms, but with time we were convinced that our guests would like to stay a little longer, so it was natural to find a place where they could linger and enjoy the atmosphere of Flocons de Sel,” explains Kristine, general manager of the hotel.

Today, the intimate chalet welcomes guests year round, from regular weekend visitors from nearby cities to holidaymakers from Belgium,

Switzerland, Italy and Germany and, more recently, from cities like Shanghai, Tokyo and Hong Kong. However, the beating heart of Flocons de Sel is the kitchen, with chef Renaut unfailingly at the helm.

The wood interiors, high ceilings and stripped-back décor of the restaurant, along with the pretty terrace with its divine mountain backdrop, mirror the simplicity and refinement of the chef ’s 3-star cooking. The terms ‘local’ and ‘seasonal’ have been high on the agenda for modern-day chefs, but for Emmanuel, a city boy who found his spiritual home in the mountains of Megève, they couldn’t be more defining. A lover of nature, he feels most at home in the forest foraging or hunting, or on

的露台，与伊曼纽尔·雷诺特烹制的米其林 三星简约和精致美食一脉相承。对今日的很 多厨师而言，“本地”“时令”食材非常重要，但 对伊曼纽尔这个在梅杰夫山中找到心灵归宿 的城市男孩来讲，这样的食材更形重要。对 于热爱大自然的他，在森林中寻觅食材或狩 猎，在路边垂钓或在酒店的菜园里摘香草时 最为惬意自在。他烹饪用的食材主要来自周 边 100 公 里 以 内 的 地 区 ，他 本 人 认 识 并 了 解 所有的供应商。“大自然就是我们的超市”， 伊 曼 纽 尔 表 示 。他 曾 在 L’Auberge de l’Eridan 餐 厅 工 作 过 几 年 ， 师 从 名 厨 Marc Veyrat。 “高 山 给 了 我 们 需 要 的 一 切 。”他 的 德 国 妻 子深情地称他“内心是个高山男孩”。 厨房里，雷诺特的食物美妙又富有创意。 他的作品在向梅杰夫及其周边环境致敬：从 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 95

Essential TRAVEL

新鲜采摘的蘑菇到无与伦比的本地芝士，每 一道菜都饱含了想象力，精心演绎种种大自 然馈赠。除了拥有米其林的最高褒奖外，他 的 烹 饪 理 念 还 为 他 在 2004 年 赢 得 了 “法 国 顶 级匠人”（Meilleure Ouvrier de France）称号，以 及 Compagnon du Tour de France 学院勋章。 除了米其林三星餐厅 Flocons de Sel 外，雷 诺特夫妇依旧把他们最早开设的餐厅视 如 珍 宝 ， 餐 厅 如 今 已 更 名 为 Flocons Village （盐花村），供应更简单实惠的可口美食。他 们计划在今年冬天开设 Le Forestier（林中人） 餐厅——这间温馨舒适的高山餐厅，只在滑 雪季营业，供应简单的自制美食。 쐽

the lake fishing, or in the hotel’s gardens picking herbs. He works mainly with ingredients that come from within a 100km-radius and knows all his suppliers personally. “Nature is our supermarket,” says the chef, who worked under Marc Veyrat at L’Auberge de l’Eridan for several years. “The mountain gives us everything we need.” His German wife fondly calls him “a mountain boy at heart”.

In the kitchen, Renaut’s food is subtle and inventive. An homage to Megève and its surroundings, from freshly picked mushrooms to magnificent local cheeses, each plate is an imaginative yet delicate interpretation of nature’s bounty. As well as the highest Michelin accolade, his philosophy earned him the title of Meilleure Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France) in 2004 and a Compagnon du Tour de France distinction.

His published books also focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Complementing the 3-star Flocons de Sel is Flocons Village, the original restaurant that the couple still cherishes and which serves good food in a simpler, more affordable manner. This winter, there are plans to open Le Forestier, a cosy mountain restaurant only accessible during the ski season and which will serve uncomplicated homemade food. 쐽 96 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential JEWELLERY

交通 / Getting there:

从日内瓦机场到梅杰夫只要一个多小时的车程。葡萄牙航空和易捷航空每天都有 从里斯本飞梅杰夫的航班。

Megève is just over an hour’s drive from Geneva airport. TAP and Easyjet both offer daily flights from Lisbon.

住宿 / Staying there:

弗卢肯斯德赛尔酒店的房价每晚 260 欧元起（淡季非周末价格）。

Rates at Flocons de Sel start at €260 per night (on a weekday during low season)

餐饮 / Dining there:

弗卢肯斯德赛尔酒店的午餐 120 欧元起。九道菜美味餐单 230 欧元起，晚餐时段 有单点菜单。预订前请查看餐厅营业时间。

Prices at Flocons de Sel start at €120 for the lunch menu. A nine-course tasting menu (€230) and à la carte are available at dinner. Please check restaurant opening times before booking. www.floconsdesel.com

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伯爵 更上 一 层楼 The other side of Bordeaux 柏菲酒 庄， 一 款高贵 红 酒的诞 生 Château Pavie, the emergence of a noble wine 文/by LUIS ANTUNES

98 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WINE

I

n Bordeaux, wines are split between the left bank – more aristocratic and elegant – and the right bank – more bourgeois and popular.

These banks refer to the large Gironde estuary, which results from the meeting of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers and which bathes Bordeaux before flowing into the Atlantic, while also dividing the regions with the equally fascinating Appelations d’Origine Controlées (AOCs). Just

在

法国波尔多，红酒分成左岸红酒（更高 贵典雅）和右岸红酒（更受中产阶级欢 迎 ）。 这 里 所 说 的 河 岸 ， 指 的 是 吉 隆 河 （Gironde Estuary）。 在 波 尔 多 地 区 ， 加 伦 河 （Garonne）与多尔多涅河（Dordogne）交汇成 吉隆河。吉隆河在进入大西洋前冲刷过波尔 多，还将这一地区出众的 AOC 法定产区酒庄 分开。在两河交汇前是淤积土壤富饶的格拉 夫（Graves）产区，这里有闻名遐迩的 AOC 法 定产区佩萨克-雷奥良（Pessac-Leognan） 。吉隆 河 左 岸 的 梅 多 克 （Médoc）跨 越 多 个 酿 制 优 质 葡 萄 酒 的 AOC 法 定 产 区 ，如 波 亚 克 村 庄 （Pauillac）或圣于连庄(Saint-Julien)。吉隆河右 岸有两个产区特别令人向往。在风土颇为一 致的波美侯（Pomerol），家家都尽力酿制最好 的葡萄酒，并根据市场行情进行特别排名，例 如，根据葡萄酒的声望、稀有度、价格和需求 而进行排名。这些酒包括著名的柏图斯红酒 （Pétrus）和稀有昂贵的里鹏酒庄红酒（Château Le Pin）和花堡红酒（Lafleur）。柏图斯是较传 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 99

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统的红酒，出众的品质源于其优秀的风土及 酒庄主人的辛勤付出。与波美侯相邻的圣艾 美隆产区（Saint-Émilion）的葡萄酒价格要贵 得多，自 1955 年起仿照部分 1855 年确定的梅 多克和格拉夫产区葡萄酒分级制度建立了自 己的分级制度。1855 年设立的葡萄酒分级制 度中，葡萄酒级别从一级酒庄（Premier Cru）到 五级酒庄（Cinquième Cru）不等，还有中级庄 (Cru Bourgeois)。 但 圣 艾 美 隆 产 区 却 采 用 另 外的评级制度。顶级葡萄酒是一级特等酒庄 （Premiers Grands Crus Classés）酒，又细分为 A 和 B 级。还有特级酒庄（Grands Crus Classés） 和列级庄（Grands Crus）如此等等。圣艾美隆 产区的分级制度每 10 年审核一次，这种做法 导致了一些争议、法院案件等。但时间能治 愈所有的创伤。如今该产区采用的是 2012 年 的最新圣艾美隆酒庄分级，有几间酒庄升为 一级特等酒庄 A 级，属最高等级。 升级为一级特等酒庄 A 级的酒庄中就有 柏菲酒庄（Château Pavie），酒庄座落在圣艾 美隆镇附近的山坡上，与其同时升为最高等 级的酒庄还有金钟酒庄（Château Angélus），而 同级别的欧颂酒庄（Château Ausone）和白马 酒庄（Château Cheval-Blanc）之前就在荣列最 高等级。柏菲酒庄的名字来自庄园里的桃树， 其果实是一种外部红色、果肉为黄的的叫做 Pavia 的桃子。柏菲酒庄东主香塔尔和杰勒德 ·佩斯夫妇（Chantal and Gérard Perse）拥有多 家 杰 出 酒 庄 ，但 柏 菲 是 他 们 所 拥 酒 庄 中 最 夺目的明珠。柏菲酒庄在创立半个世纪后， 仅用十余年就升到 A 级酒庄，可谓非凡的壮 举与成功。 100 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

柏菲酒庄的故事是关于一个靠自己的双 手、辛勤的工作、大胆的精神和雄心抱负而取 得成功的男人的故事，他深深热爱土地和辛 勤有序的工作。这也是佩斯夫妇和红酒之间 的深情故事：他们自 20 岁起，就梦想着自给 自足的务农冒险生活、种植葡萄树和酿制葡 萄酒，而且他们也真的以莫大的野心实现梦 想。他们的故事激励着每个人更加奋发向上。 杰勒德·佩斯年轻时做过各种工作，但 1976 年女儿安吉莉卡（Angélique）的出生（如今安 吉 莉 卡 和 丈 夫 Henrique da Costa 就 在 柏 菲 酒 庄工作）让他渴望为女儿提供舒适的生活，于 是他在巴黎郊区开了间不大的蔬果店。其杰 出的商业才能很快得到发挥，他接连收购了 一间又一间超市，直到他拥有了 4 间超市和 一间大型超市，雇佣了共 1,500 位员工。随后， 一切都改变了，或者说，他们改变了一切。 自从 1979 年起，随着里鹏酒庄（Château Le Pin）在波美侯（Pomerol）产区的出现，波尔 多 右 岸 经 历 了 变 革 时 代 ， 随 后 被 叫 作 les garagistes（酿制车库酒的人）。之所以这么叫 是因为他们在车库中酿制葡萄酒，且不进行 书面分级，他们只是潜心发掘这些杰出风土 的无限潜力。他们不遗余力尝试酿制顶级葡 萄酒。波尔多产区的顶级葡萄酒，可以直接 称为“世界上最好的葡萄酒”。几年后，同波 美侯产区的里鹏酒庄和花堡酒庄齐名的是圣 艾美隆产区的代表酒庄，如让·吕克·图文 （Jean-Luc Thunevin）的 瓦 兰 佐 酒 庄 （Château Valandraud），他酿制的车库酒本该是这场运 动的名字出处；还有由尼庞尔格（Comte von Neipperg）的拉梦多酒庄（La Mondotte），尼庞

before they join is the Graves region, of alluvial soils, with the AOC Pessac-Léognan shining high above it. On the left side, the Médoc extends across various AOCs with fantastic wines, such as Pauillac or Saint-Julien. On the right side, two regions are especially glamorous.

In the egalitarian Pomerol, every wine is out for itself, in a very particular ranking defined by the market, i.e. according to its prestige, rarity, price and demand. These include the famous Pétrus, and the rare and expensive Château Le Pin and Lafleur. Pétrus is a more traditional chateaux with an incredible quality based on the terroir and the devotion of its owners. Next door, neighbour Saint-Émilion is much more extensive than Pomerol, and structured since 1955 by a wine classification that partially emulates the famous 1855 classification of the Médoc and Graves wines. In the 1855 classification, the wines range from Premier Cru to Cinquième Cru, and there is also the Crus Bourgeois. The SaintÉmilion, however, has another structure. The best wines are the Premiers Grands Crus Classés, which are split between “A” and “B”.

Then there are the Grands Crus Classés and the Grands Crus. Et c’est ça. The Saint-Émilion classification is reviewed every 10 years, and that has caused some controversy, court cases, and so on. But time heals all wounds, and the classification in place today is the 2012 revision, when several châteaux were promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A, the highest classification.

Essential WINE

尔格还拥有卡农嘉芙丽酒庄（Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere）。 佩斯夫妇在旅游、阅读和品酒过程中亲身 见证了整个车库酒运动，直到他们爱上了蒙 宝酒庄（Chateau Monbousquet），并在 1993 年 收 购 了 这 家 酒 庄 。他 们 以 700 万 欧 元 购 买 了 32 公顷的土地，雇请了明星酿酒师米歇尔· 罗兰（Michel Rolland），热切渴望修缮翻新此 处的酒窖和酿酒设备，只在木桶中酿酒。仅 仅 5 年后，佩斯夫妇在巴黎的整个零售集团 都 已 经 售 出 了 。 1997 年 和 1998 年 ， 佩 斯 夫 妇 先 后 买 下 了 柏 菲 德 凯 斯 酒 庄 （Chateau Pavie Decesse）和声名卓著的柏菲酒庄。同样 在 1998 年，柏菲酒庄的红酒让红酒爱好者们 惊喜不已，将酒庄本来平淡无奇的红酒变成 闪耀天鹅绒般光泽、清爽、有着诱人酸度的 杰出美酒。一颗明星重生，仅用了 14 年就升 级为顶级葡萄酒。

Such was the case of the magnificent Château Pavie, on a hillside close to the town of Saint-Émilion, which joined the classic Château Ausone and Château Cheval-Blanc, along with the equally promoted Château Angélus. The château’s name comes from its peach trees, which bear red peaches with a yellow pulp, called Pavia peaches. This is the jewel in the crowning glory of its owners, Chantal and Gérard Perse. The promotion of the Saint-Émilion château, after half a century, to the “A” group is a notable feat and was achieved in little over 10 years.

This is the story of a self-made man, a hardworking, audacious and ambitious man, with a passion for the earth and for methodical work.

It is also the love story between the Perse couple and wine, as they had dreamt of the adventure

of living off the land, the vines and the wine since they were 20, and did so with a limitless ambitious, an inspiring story that challenges everyone to aim higher. Gérard had various jobs as a youngster, but the birth of his daughter Angélique (who works with her husband Henrique da Costa at Château Pavie) in 1976, and the desire to provide her with a comfortable life, led him to open a small fruit and vegetable store on the outskirts of Paris. His talent for business quickly led him to acquire a supermarket, and then another, until he had four supermarkets and a hypermarket and employed 1,500 people. Then, everything changed. Or rather, they changed everything.

Since 1979, with the emergence of Château Le Pin in Pomerol, the Rive Droite of Bordeaux was going through a revolutionary time which

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2006 年，蒙宝酒庄同柏菲德凯斯酒庄一样 升级为特等酒庄。但佩斯夫妇的抱负和付出 并没有就此而止。2001 年，他们买下了位于 法 国 波 尔 多 卡 斯 蒂 永 丘 （Castillon-Côtes）产 区、占地 9 公顷的朗乐士酒庄（Clos Lunelles）， 卡斯蒂永丘产区生产更多价格低廉的葡萄 酒。他们还在距离柏菲酒庄和柏菲德凯斯酒 庄不远的地方购买了两公顷的出色风土，建 立了美景梦多酒庄葡萄酒（Château BellevueMondotte），其酿制方式完全遵循车库酒的方 式，主要采用梅洛和 5%的品丽珠，由于产量 小、稀有，拥有杰出的酒评评分，使其深受 红酒爱好者追捧与膜拜。同年，佩斯夫妇收 购了 L’Hostellerie de Plaisance 餐厅，这间餐厅 位于小城中心，拥有米其林两星殊荣。 完 成 这 些 收 购 项 目 多 年 后 ，是 时 候 进 一 步巩固酒庄项目和葡萄酒业务了，他们采用 先前收购零售集团后的举措，恢复生产已有 的葡萄酒，推出新品种，参与酒品排名竞逐， 树立名声并打造出一个围绕葡萄酒的 框架 ——就像他们以前从事零售业那样。在等待 葡萄成熟酿制正牌酒的时候，波尔多产区通 常都会用最新葡萄树上的葡萄酿制副牌酒， 于是 Arômes de Pavie 副牌酒就在 2005 年诞生 了。2011 年到 2013 年之间，在建筑师兼室内 设计师阿尔伯特·皮诺托（Alberto Pinto）领衔 下，他们全面翻新了柏菲酒庄。酒庄座落在 长满梅洛和品丽珠的山坡上，中央有个巨大 的大堂。酒庄设计融合了现代简约风格和波 尔多古典风格，室内外设计匠心独到、协调 和谐，让人赞叹不已，灯光造就出叹为观止 的 夜 景 。酒 庄 入 口 处 顶 部 挂 着 2012 年 级 别 审核后酒庄荣获的特级酒庄 A 级（Grand Cru Classé ‘A’）殊荣。 102 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

2015 年 ，杰 勒 德 和 妻 子 香 塔 尔 再 次 拓 展 生意业务，但是这次是朝全新方向发展：橄 榄油。在阿尔比勒（Alpilles）山脉的腹地，村 庄慕里耶（Mouriès）附近，佩斯夫妇购买了 15 公 顷 向 南 的 朝 阳 土 地 和 3,200 棵 树 龄 在 20 到 150 年 的 橄 榄 树 。此 处 地 形 以 适 于 橄 榄 树 生 长而著名，由于多是石灰岩质土壤，橄榄树 和 其 他 植 被 （灌 木 丛 林 地 ） 得 以 平 衡 共 生 ， 特别的微气候，密史脱拉风（法国地中海沿 岸 地 带 的 一 种 干 冷 北 风 ）更 保 证 了 橄 榄 健 康成熟。他们把这片土地命名为克鲁斯庄园

would later be called “les garagistes”. The wine of these garagistes, whose name literally comes from the fact they made wine in garages, boasted no parchments or classifications, but they had a huge determination to take exceptional terroirs with undiscovered potential. They spared no effort to make the best possible wines.

In the Bordeaux region, that could easily mean “the best wine in the world”. Joining Le Pin and Lafleur in Pomerol a few years later was a sequence of ambitious Saint-Émilion representatives, such as Château Valandraud by JeanLuc Thunevin, whose garage could have given name to the movement, but also La Mondotte, from the elegant Comte von Neipperg, also the owner of the most traditional Château Canon La Gaffelière.

The Perses witnessed this entire movement up close, travelling, reading and tasting, until they fell in love with Château Monbousquet, which they acquired in 1993. They purchased 32 hectares for €7 million, hired the star winemaker Michel Rolland, and had an enormous desire to renovate the property, which only produced wine in bulk. Just five years later, the entire retail group in Paris was long gone. In 1997, the couple bought Château PavieDecesse, and in 1998, the prestigious Château Pavie. Already in that year, the Pavie wines haunted wine-lovers, given the fantastic transformation of a banal wine into an outstanding beast with a velvet patina and refreshing, seductive acidity. A star was reborn, just 14 years before being promoted to the top.

Essential WINE

（La Clusière），拥有 AOP 原厂地标签——莱博 得普罗旺斯山谷 AOP（AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence），致 敬 圣 艾 美 隆 产 区 “已 经 绝 迹 的 ” 克鲁斯酒庄（Château La Clusière）。该酒庄的 3 公顷土地已经并入柏菲酒庄领地。在莱博得 小镇，这个名字非常合适，因为“cluse”是在以 峭壁闻名的石灰岩群中刻出的山谷。即使最 近，夫妇俩还在继续拓张生意王国，收购了 L’Envers du Décor 葡萄酒吧和餐厅，该餐厅创 立于 1987 年，是圣艾美隆地区的权威食府。 圣艾美隆地区地下中空，完全是由于地下 石灰石被挖出的缘故，可以说，是石灰石构 建 了 整 个 城 市 ，甚 至 梅 多 克 酒 庄 （Châteaux du Médoc）。在城市中心的超级建筑之下还有 一个城市，布满了地下墓穴和洞穴，形成了 酒窖、美术馆、庙宇、仓库……与之类似，在 其他葡萄园地下，由于石灰石的开采挖掘而 形成的长长的通道，有助于葡萄园排水系统 的运作，同时改善了葡萄藤质量，并且大大 促进了葡萄的杰出品质。 与左岸著名的贵族葡萄酒相反，圣艾美隆 产区的葡萄酒分成从低到高各种级别，从平庸 的口味到高贵的葡萄酒，应有尽有。可以说， 1997 年，柏菲酒庄的红酒名不见经传。但自从 1998 年 杰 勒 德 · 佩 斯 及 其 家 庭 买 下 酒 庄 后 ， 人人认可其卓越品质。实至名归恰是如此。쐽

In 2006, the Monbousquet joined the PavieDecesse as a Grand Cru Classé. But the couple’s ambition and commitment to standards didn’t stop here. Back in 2001, they had purchased Clos Lunelles, a nine-hectare property in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, a neighbouring denomination where more affordable wine was made. They bought two hectares of exceptional terroir, not far from Château Pavie and PavieDecesse, to make the Château BellevueMondotte, a wine that followed the garagiste philosophies in every way, made with mostly Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, and whose miniscule productions went hand in hand with the rarity of the production and the excellent critic scores that led it to reach cult status. In that same year, the Perses acquired L'Hostellerie de Plaisance, a restaurant in the town centre that has two Michelin stars.

For some years after these acquisitions, it was time to consolidate the projects and the businesses, re-establish the existing wines and launch new ones, prepare the ranking promotions, build their reputation and a framework around wine like they had done before with distribution. In 2005, Arômes de Pavie was

born, following the usual Bordeaux model of using the newest vines for the second wine, while waiting for its maturity that will lead its grapes to the first. Between 2011 and 2013, they renovated all the buildings at Château Pavie, with the architect and interior designer Alberto Pinto leading the work. The pretty hillside, with its vines of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, envelops the château, which is centred on a huge hall. The tone is of contemporary sobriety and Bordeaux classicism, both in the carefully aligned interior and the exterior, with a marvellous framing and a lighting set-up that gives the night view a phenomenal glamour.

At the top of the entrance, the 2012 update brought the proud inscription 1er “Grand Cru Classé ‘A’.

In 2015, Gérard and Chantal expanded the business once more but in a new direction: olive oil. Near to the village of Mouriès, in the heart of the Alpilles mountain range, the Perses bought a 15-hectare property with south-facing sun exposure and 3,200 olive trees aged between 20 and 150 years. The terroir is fabulous for the olive trees, with rocky limestone soils, a balance between the trees and the rest of the vegetation (scrubland) and a particular micro-climate, with the mistral ensuring the healthy ripeness of the olives. They named this property, within the AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence, La Clusière, in homage to the “extinct” Château La Clusière in Saint-Émilion, whose three-hectare plot became part of Château Pavie. Here in Baux, the name is indeed fitting, as a “cluse” is a valley carved in limestone masses, framed by cliffs. Even more recently, the business continued to expand, with the acquisition of L’Envers du Décor, a wine bar and restaurant established in 1987 and considered an institution in Saint-Émilion.

Saint-Émilion is hollow, completely mined by the extraction of the limestone that was used to build the entire city and even the Châteaux du Médoc. Beneath the superb constructions in the city centre, another city offers us catacombs and caves, which form cellars, galleries, temples, warehouses... Similarly, beneath some vineyards, the long galleries from where the stone was extracted contribute towards a draining system that improves the vines and plays a big part in the excellence of the grapes.

Contrary to the recognised aristocratic wines of the left bank, in Saint-Émilion, the wines grew from the bottom up, from plebeian terroirs to noble wines. It can’t be said that, in 1997, the Château Pavie was a plebeian wine. But since Gérard Perse and his family acquired it in 1998, there are no doubts regarding its nobility. Credit where credit is due. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 103

Essential ARTIST

极·乐 Land of Gold 美丽 的 印裔英国西塔琴（Sitar）天后 安 诺 舒 卡 · 尚 卡（Anoushka Shankar）， 将于澳门文化中心献 上 「 极 ． 乐 」（Land of Gold）音 乐 会 Beautiful British Indian sitar player Anoushka Shankar showcases her ‘Land of Gold’ concert in Macau Cultural Centre 文/by EDWINA LIU

安

诺舒卡·尚卡出生于 1981 年，是世界 著名的英籍印裔西塔琴演奏家和作 曲家。她自七岁开始跟随父亲、印度西塔琴 大师拉维·尚卡（Ravi Shankar）学习西塔琴， 继承父亲的衣钵，并且不依循旧章，在音乐 中 注 入 活 力 和 灵 性 ，让 听 众 体 会 印 度 传 统 音乐的精髓。 在 过 去 的 二 十 年 里 ，尚 卡 已 发 行 了 八 张 专 辑 ，其 中 最 新 的 一 张 是 2016 年 推 出 的 「 极 ． 乐 」。 她 的 音 乐 受 到 全 球 观 众 的 好 评 ， 并获得了多项荣誉和奖项，包括六项格莱美 奖 提 名 。 2004 年 ，她 被 《时 代 》杂 志 亚 洲 版评为“20 位亚洲英雄”之一。 在 2015 年 的 夏 天 ，当 尚 卡 边 喂 宝 宝 边 在 沙 发 上 看 电 视 而 看 到 难 民 危 机 蔓 延 时 ，她 感 到 无 比 的 震 惊 。自 身 与 难 民 家 庭 状 况 的

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强烈反差，激发她制作新专辑「极．乐」。于 是 她 走 进 工 作 室 ，开 始 创 作 音 乐 来 诠 释 这 种情绪，作品直击人心，触动人们与生俱来 的同理心。 3 月 20 日，澳门观众有机会在澳门文化中 心欣赏尚卡献演这张精彩专辑的作品。伙拍 一群技艺精湛的音乐家，包括打击乐手和联 合作曲人 Manu Delago、低音大提琴手兼键盘 手 Tom Farmer， 以 及 印 度 唢 呐 大 师 Sanjeev Shankar，才华横溢的尚卡将以强有力的作品 震荡观众的耳膜和心灵。在音乐会上，她将 倾情演绎其至情至性的音乐：掐揉了古典与 现代音乐元素，融汇宁静冥思般缓缓流动的 印 度 古 典 拉 格 （Raga）音 律 ，同 时 大 量 使 用 电音和扩张的节拍，印度音乐从而变得前卫 型格而玄妙迷人。 쐽

B

orn in 1981, Anoushka Shankar is a world famous British Indian sitar player and composer. Taught by her father, Indian sitar maestro Ravi Shankar, since the age of seven, Anoushka Shankar takes over where her father left off, injecting her own dynamic and spiritual musicality, allowing listeners to peek into India’s musical traditions.

Over the past 20 years, Shankar has released eight albums, the latest of which is Land of Gold released in 2016. Her music is well received by worldwide audiences and she has garnered several prestigious accolades, including six Grammy award nominations. In 2004, she was named one of 20 Asian Heroes by the Asia edition of Time.

In the Summer of 2015, when Shankar was feeding her baby and watching TV on the sofa, she was shocked to watch the refugee crisis unfold. This stark contrast inspired her to make the album Land of Gold. She then went into the studio and started making music to explain this emotion, reaching out to people’s innate empathy.

On March 20, audiences in Macau can enjoy the music from this amazing album at the Macao Cultural Centre. Together with an exquisite group of musicians - including percussionist and co-composer Manu Delago, double bassist and keyboardist Tom Farmer, and master of the Indian shehnai Sanjeev Shankar - this talented musician promises to thrill concertgoers with her powerful works.

During the concert, her musical “honesty” integral to her work both in the classical and modern musical spheres with the often meditative flow of traditional ragas - will be on full display, complemented by the dense use of electronics and amplified beats.쐽

Essential JEWELLERY

Essential NEWS

推动女性发展 为培育和促进未来女性往领袖职位发展，隶属万豪国际 集团的澳门喜来登金沙城中心大酒店及澳门瑞吉金沙城中 心酒店，以及澳门 JW 万豪酒店和澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店，集 聚近 40 名旗下资深酒店业专业人士举行联谊晚会。由澳门 喜来登金沙城中心大酒店及澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店董事 总经理麦俪珍女士主持的联谊晚宴，于澳门瑞吉酒店的阿 斯 特 宴 会 厅 举 行 。业 界 领 袖 就 晚 宴 主 题 “认 识 与 突 破 界 限 ” (Know Your Limits & Have None) 共同分享见解和经验。 麦俪珍女士表示：“我认为酒店业不应把注意力只集中 在 某 一 个 性 别 上 ，我 在 工 作 上 曾 与 不 少 优 秀 的 男 士 合 作 。 业务范围广泛的酒店业应为所有人提供平等的就业机会。 虽 然 我 们 看 到 越 来 越 多 女 性 加 入 这 个 行 业 ，但 管 理 层 的 岗位仍然由男性主导。作为全球最大的酒店集团，万豪国 际 集 团 鼓 励 女 性 员 工 在 合 适 的 培 训 和 指 导 下 ，担 任 更 多 重要的领导角色。”

Driving women forward Sheraton Grand Macao Hotel and The St. Regis Macao recently brought together close to 40 senior hospitality professionals from the two hotels as well as sister properties JW Marriott Hotel Macau and The Ritz Carlton Macau to develop and empower future women leaders. Hosted

by Janet McNab, Managing Director of Sheraton Grand Macao and The St. Regis Macao, the networking dinner held in the Astor Ballroom of The St. Regis Macao saw industry leaders introduced to the evening’s theme of ‘Know Your Limits & Have None’.

“In our industry, I don’t believe we should focus on one gender being dominant over the other as I have also worked with many fantastic men.

The hospitality industry is one that is broad-scoped and presents equal opportunities for all,” said Ms. McNab. “That said, while we see more and more women entering the industry the percentages at a higher level are still skewed towards male leadership. As the world’s largest hotel company, it is important that we at Marriott International encourage our female associates to assume more senior positions through the right training and mentorship programmes.”

澳博签 署 《职业安全 健康约 章 》 为支持澳门特区政府劳工事务局（下称劳工局） 的 倡 议 ，向 业 内 员 工 承 诺 提 供 安 全 健 康 工 作 环 境 ，澳 门 博 彩 股 份 有 限 公 司 (下 称 澳 博 )在 新 葡 京 酒店宴会厅举行《职业安全健康约章》签署仪式， 承诺为全体员工提供一个安全及健康的工作环 境，支持澳门特区政府推广职业安全健康文化。 在 劳 工 局 局 长 黄 志 雄 的 见 证 下 ，澳 博 常 务 董 事兼行政总监及澳博员工福利咨询委员会主席梁 安琪、澳博人力资源部总监邹柏分别代表澳博管 理层及澳博全体员工签署约章。 梁安琪女士表示：“澳博会尽最大诚心和努力 持续为员工打造安全舒适的工作环境。同时鼓励 员工积极配合公司为针对职业安全和健康而订 立的各项维护措施及管理政策。”

SJM signs up to Occupational Safety and Health Charter In support of an industry-wide commitment to workplace safety initiated by the Labour Affairs Bureau of the Macau SAR Government (DSAL) Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, S.A. (SJM) signed the Occupational Safety and Health Charter at the Grand Lisboa, pledging to provide its employees with a safe and healthy working environment, and supporting Macau’s promotion of the culture of occupational safety and health.

Witnessed by the Director of DSAL, Mr. Wong Chi Hong, the Charter was signed by Ms. Angela Leong, Managing Director and Chief Administrative Officer of SJM, and also Chairman of the Staff Welfare Consultative Committee of SJM. Mr. Jones Chao, Director of Human Resources of SJM, also signed on behalf of the company and employees.

“We will continue to build a safe and comfortable working environment for our employees with utmost sincerity and effort. At the same time, we encourage our employees to actively co-ordinate with the company in implementing the maintenance measures and management policies of occupational health and safety,” said Ms. Leong.

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Essential NEWS

澳 门丽思卡 尔顿 酒店 「怡 世宝 水疗 」 荣 膺 年 度 水 疗 大 奖 澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店「怡世宝水疗」在 第 13 届 AsiaSpa Awards 年 度 评 选 中 荣 获 “年度男士疗程大奖”。旨在嘉奖优秀水疗服 务及提升业界水平的 AsiaSpa Awards 是亚洲 地区最受期待和推崇的年度水疗美体盛事。 澳 门 JW 万 豪 酒 店 及 澳 门 丽 思 卡 尔 顿 酒 店营运副总裁马立祺说：“「 怡世宝水疗」一 直致力为男女宾客提供最优质的水疗服务， 让他们透过舒适的按摩和焕发身心的水疗 理 疗 ，体 验 奢 华 的 个 性 化 水 疗 服 务 。这 个 奖 项 充 分 肯 定 了 「怡 世 宝 水 疗 」一 众 绅 士 和 淑 女 们 的 不 懈 努 力 及 用 心 服 务 ，我 在 此 恭喜贺团队取得骄人成绩。展望未来，我们 将 继 续 致 力 提 升 业 界 水 疗 水 平 ，为 宾 客 提 供 一 个 远 离 繁 嚣 的 舒 适 环 境 ，让 宾 客 全 面 放松身心，重拾神采。”

ESPA Macau at The Ritz Carlton, Macau Wins annual AsiaSpa Awards The Ritz Carlton, Macau’s ESPA Macau was awarded Men’s Spa Treatment of the Year at the 13th annual AsiaSpa Awards. One of the most anticipated and respected spa and wellness events of the year, the AsiaSpa Awards recognise the industry’s finest for their contributions to raising the level of spa experiences across the region.

“ESPA Macau aims to provide the finest quality spa services not only for women but men, allowing guests a luxurious, personalised escape through therapeutic massage and revitalising spa treatments. It is an affirmation of our ESPA Macau ladies and gentlemen’s dedication and effort, and I congratulate the team on this great achievement. Moving forward, we will continue to drive the very best of standards and provide a tranquil escape where guests can experience total relaxation of the body and mind.” said Mr. Rauf Malik, Vice President of Operations for JW Marriott Hotel Macau and The Ritz Carlton, Macau.

新濠 博 亚推出全新酒 店品 牌 新濠博亚娱乐有限公司宣布推出全新 豪 华 酒 店 品 牌 NÜWA。新 酒 店 品 牌 将 于 2018 年 1 月 16 日 在 澳 门 和 马 尼 拉 正 式 面 世。Nüwa 将取代新濠博亚旗舰酒店皇冠 大 厦 酒 店 。此 全 新 豪 华 酒 店 品 牌 受 到 中 国神话中同名女主角女娲的启发，NÜWA 代 表 经 典 的 亚 洲 精 致 生 活 ，也 是 集 团 准 备 于 2018 年 第 二 季 度 启 动 澳 门 新 濠 天 地 第三期迈出的第一步。 新濠博亚娱乐主席兼行政总裁何猷龙 表示：“我们很高兴能介绍 NÜWA。新酒 店 品 牌 体 现 了 新 濠 的 追 求 ，为 客 人 提 供 精致、优质和创新的最佳体验。”

Melco introduces new hotel brand NÜWA Melco Resorts & Entertainment Limited has announced the launch of NÜWA, its new luxury hotel brand which will debut in Macau and Manila on January 16, 2018. It replaces the Crown Towers Hotels in its flagship property City of Dreams. Inspired by the eponymous heroine of Chinese mythology, NÜWA represents classic Asian refinement and is the first step in the preparation of the launch of Phase III of City of Dreams in the second quarter of 2018.

Mr. Lawrence Ho, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Melco Resorts and Entertainment, said: “We are excited to introduce NÜWA. The new hotel brand embodies the very essence of Melco’s pursuit to provide our guests with the very best in sophistication, quality and innovation.”

澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗 雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢 华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇 嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝 玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布 克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoff 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔 斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门 店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱 恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦 纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君 皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国 表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2017年 12月- 2018年 1月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万 宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田 贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥 纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗 威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅 可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Officine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂 芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇 水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托 德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷 达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈 迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日 墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜 彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托 勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思 哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔 图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇 薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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