ESSENTIAL MACAU. DECEMBER / JANUARY 2018 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2018年 12月 - 2019年 1月47期 No. 47 December - January 2018/19

中国时计 China Time

恩佐·法拉利 Enzo Ferrari 永远的传奇 The Legend

中国制造的高级腕表 Haute horlogerie made in China

英式泡泡 British Bubbles

ISSN:2221-1438

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50 Mainland China RMB 50

卓越的英格兰气泡酒 Wine of excellence from England

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EDWINA LIU EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

节日快乐！

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

欢乐的节日正接踵而来！欢迎再次阅读《澳门精华》并预祝大家节日快乐！在这个愉快的季节里，澳门处处都张灯结彩，一片热闹的景象。澳门光影节透过令人赞叹的灯光表演和 3D光影效果展示了澳门世界遗产美丽的另一面以及一系列瑰丽震撼的动感娱乐活动，包括光雕表演、虚拟实境游戏及灯饰装置。12月，第三届澳门国际影展暨颁奖典礼为本地电影迷提供难得的机会接触心爱的电影和艺术家们！正在寻找礼物的你，不妨考虑下高质量的手表和节日限定美妆产品。埃菲列文是一个由来自法国和中国四位年轻人的中国钟表品牌。他们希望展示中国的制表技术，证明与欧洲的技术一样先进和精确，品牌首个系列瓷之旅现已登陆网站。一个完美的节庆少不了丰盛的大餐，葡国菜也是不错的选择！本期我们对话城中最棒的葡国菜大厨之一的陈继祖，一起研究澳门葡国菜的历史。愿您享受此趟澳门之旅！

Holiday season is around the corner! Welcome to the latest issue of Essential Macau and wish you have a fantastic holiday! In preparation for the festivities the streets and squares are adorned with brightly coloured decorations and the air is abuzz with excitement. Macao Light Festival 2018 showcases a different side of Macao World Heritage via stunning light displays and 3D and a delightfully flamboyant and entertaining event featuring light, 3D mapping and VR games. Also happening in the exciting December, our city once again becomes the focus of international film industry. The 3rd International Film Festival Macao provides a rare opportunity for film lovers to encounter their favourite films and artists. For those who are looking for gifts for best friends, a high quality timepiece or a seasonal edition beauty product both are good choices. Atelier Wen is a Chinese timepiece brand founded by four young men from France and China who want to approve Chinese horology can be just as advanced and refined as European horology. Their first collection Porcelain Odyssey has already available online. A perfect celebration can’t complete without a feast! Why not trying some traditional Portuguese cuisine this year? This issue, we talked to one of the best chef in town- Chef Joe, follow us to explore the history of Macau’s Portuguese cuisine. We hope you to enjoy your visit to Macau！

专题特写 FEATURES 14

艺术家 Artist “凯斯·哈林迷宫之旅 – 澳门站”展出波普大师哈林的杰作，探索爱与和平的主题

MAZE MACAU HOSTS KEITH HARING EXHIBITION OF LOVE AND PEACE

腕表 Watch 百达翡丽最著名的女装腕表系列之一换上新颜

ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS WOMEN’S LINES PATEK PHILIPPE GETS A NEW LOOK

FROM

腕表 Watch 新创品牌埃菲列文希望向世人展示，中国制造的腕表也是高品质时计

WEN WANTS TO SHOW THAT CHINA-MADE WATCHES CAN BE SYNONYMOUS OF HOROLOGICAL QUALITY TOO

传奇人物 Legend 恩佐·法拉利是一名车手、运动经理和汽车制造商，但最重要的是，他是汽车史上最出类拔萃的人物

ENZO FERRARI WAS A DRIVER, SPORTS DIRECTOR AND CAR CONSTRUCTOR, BUT ABOVE ALL ELSE, HE WAS THE MOST PROMINENT FIGURE IN THE HISTORY OF CARS

汽车 Auto 全新的奔驰A级（第四代）横空出世，无疑将会征服车迷的心。奔驰再次击中目标

THE NEW A-CLASS CAME, SAW AND WILL NO MERCEDES HAS HIT THE

DOUBT CONQUER.

NAIL ON THE HEAD ONCE AGAIN

博物馆 Museum 设于苏格兰第四大城市邓迪，V&A博物馆首间伦敦以外的分馆揭幕

THE FIRST V&A OUTSIDE OF LONDON SCOTLAND’S

HAS BEEN UNVEILED IN FOURTH LARGEST CITY

时尚 Fashion 舒适地带

COMFORT ZONE

44 6 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

项目 Project 八位才华横溢的设计师无间合作，又会擦出怎样的火花？盟可睐的Moncler Genius系列会告诉你答案

WHAT’S HAPPENS WHEN EIGHT GENIUS DESIGNERS CO-OPERATE? MONCLER GENIUS IS THE ANSWER

时尚 Fashion 城市迷离夜

NIGHT ON THE TOWN

行李箱 Luggage 路易威登继续与澳大利亚设计师Marc Newson 合作设计Horizon行李箱系列

LOUIS VUITTON CONTINUES ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER MARC NEWSON

餐具 Tableware 老佛爷卡尔·拉格斐为银器奢侈品品牌昆庭设计 MOOD系列奢华限量餐具套装，全球限量发行1,500套

KARL LAGERFELD HAS DESIGNED A LIMITED EDITION OF THE CHRISTOFLE ‘MOOD’ WITH JUST 1,500 EXCLUSIVE PIECES WORLDWIDE

美食 Chef 澳门星际酒店开业十二周年，行政总厨陈继祖为酒店餐厅品味坊设计出一个集经典葡国美馔的特别菜单招待宾客

ON THE 12TH ANNIVERSARY OF STARWORLD HOTEL MACAU, CHEF JOE CHAN HAS DESIGNED A SPECIAL PORTUGUESE MENU FOR TEMPTATIONS RESTAURANT

美酒 Wine 全球最大的葡萄酒进口国之一正在发展成为杰出的气泡酒生产国

ONE OF THE WORLD’S BIGGEST WINE IMPORTERS IS GAINING GROUND AS A SPARKLING WINE PRODUCER OF EXCELLENCE

86 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 7

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com

连衣裙 Dress: Miguel Vieira 颈圈 Collar: Swann Hostein 胸针 Brooch: David Rosas 戒指 Ring: Isabel Lopes da Silva

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 模特 MODEL: MARI HANSEN (L’AGENCE)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

广告营运部 Advertising sales 澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 essential@projectasiacorp.com 战略营销伙伴 Strategic marketing partner Derrick Tran - derrick.tran@projectasiacorp.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques, Luis Antunes 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

+853 2833 1258 合资企业

導演視覺 Director’s Choice

澳门— 冉冉升起的电影制作文化目的地 Macau - New cultural destination for film production 12 月 8 日至 14 日，第三届澳门国际影展暨颁奖典礼将在本澳举行 From 8th to 14th December, the Third International Film Festival & Awards • Macao (IFFAM) takes place in our city 摄影/photos 3RD INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL & AWARDS ‧ MACAO

经

过两年不懈的努力，澳门已经成为一个新文化目的地和电影制作地。今年，澳门特别行政区政府旅游局再次与澳门影视制作文化协会合作，让人们把目光聚焦在澳门这个冉冉升起的电影制作与文化目的地上。传承影展“银幕盛宴戏象一新” 的主题，第三届澳门国际影展暨颁奖典礼请来麦克·古瑞吉担任艺术总监，香港影星郭富城和奥斯卡奖得主尼古拉斯基治、韩

10 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

hrough two years of unremitting effort, Macau has established itself as a new cultural destination and a location for film production. This year, Macao Government Tourism Office (MGTO) once again collaborates with Macau Films & Television Productions and Culture Association (MFTPA) to spotlight Macau as a new cultural destination and a location for film production. Continuing the

Festival’s theme of A New Avenue to The World of Films, the 3rd IFFAM has invited Mike Goodridge as Artistic Director and Hong Kongbased star Aaron Kwok, Academy Award winner Nicolas Cage and Korean signer and actress Yoon A Lim as Talent Ambassadors. South Korean filmmaker Kim Yong–Hwa, previous IFFAM jury president Shekhar Kapur and Chinese film director Xue Xiaolu serve as

Essential FESTIVAL

国歌手及演员林允儿担任明星大使。此外，韩国电影制作人金容华、前影展评审团主席 Kapur 和中国电影导演薛晓璐将担任影展大使，中国著名导演陈凯歌则任影展评审团主席。为期七日的澳门国际影展于 12 月 8 日由开幕电影《绿簿旅友》拉开序幕。盛大的开幕典礼于同日在澳门文化中心举办。本年度影展包括竞赛单元、银幕盛会、十面埋伏、环球影展全览、导演视觉、焦点影人和特别展映及新增竞赛单元 — — 新华语映像，由影展选片顾问团队选出 6 部于 2018 年上映的优秀华语电影进行展映。在最受期待的 “竞赛单元 ”，十一部由首次或第二次执导的导演带来的长片将共同角逐美金六万元的奖金！精彩作品包括：《雪茫寻亲》（保加利亚/德国/法国）、《像我这样美好的女孩》（德国）、《忏悔》（韩国）、《来电追缉》（丹麦）、《名媛堕落》（墨西哥）、《耶稣》（日本）、《无痛奇男》（印度）、《逆流教师》（法国）、《错爱》（英国）、《郊区的鸟》（中国内地）和《圣血》（阿根廷）。另一个重点单元 “环球影展全览 ”将展示九部本年度主要国际影展的多部得奖长片作品，如参与了 2018 柏林及荷兰国际影展的《妈不得这样》（荷兰/比利时/德国）、和获得 2018 威尼斯电影节地平线单元最佳影片奖的《偷换人生》（泰国 /法国 /中国内地）以及获得威尼斯电影节金狮奖的《罗马》（美国/墨西哥）等等。由澳门、葡萄牙、中国内地和黎巴嫩团队制作的电影《帝皇酒店》亦会在影展期间特别展映。优秀影片馈赏视觉，星光熠熠闪耀会场，今年澳门国际影展又将带来精彩不断的文艺一周！ 쐽

十面埋伏 Flying Daggers

落入凡間的球星 Diamantino 十面埋伏 Flying Daggers

IFFAM ambassadors, while renowned Chinese director Chen Kaige is International Competition Jury President for Competition. The 7-day festival kicks off with movie “Green Book” on December 8. A grand opening ceremony also takes place at the same day at Macao Cultural Centre. This year, the festival comprises signature programmes, Competition, Gala, Flying Daggers, Best of Fest Panorama, Director’s Choice, In Focus and Special Presentations plus a new competitive section - New Chinese Cinema a showcase of six films representing the programming team’s choice of the best of Chinese language cinema first screened in 2018. The most exciting Competition section sees 11 feature films which is a showcase for first and second time film-makers with 60,000 USD as the award winning prize. Expect to appreciate the following movies: “Ága” (Bulgaria / Germany / France), “All Good” (Germany), “Clean Up” (Korea), “The Guilty” (Denmark), “The Good Girls” (Mexico), “Jesus” (Japan),

十面埋伏 Flying Daggers

“The Man Who Feels No Pain” (India), “School’s Out” (France), “Scarborough” (UK), “Suburban Birds” (Mainland China) and “White Blood” (Argentina). Another highlight programme, Best of Fest Panorama, showcases nine of films from other major international film festivals of the year; highlights includes “Cobain” (Netherlands / Belgium / Germany), which showcased in Berlin International Film Festival and International Film Festival Rotterdam 2018, “Manta Ray” (Thailand / France / Mainland China), which won the Horizons Documentary Prize at Venice International Film Festival, the Golden Lion winner at Venice International Film Festival “Roma” (US / Mexico) and more. Macau film “Empire Hotel” which is made by the team from Portugal, Macau, Mainland China and Lebanon is also presented during the festival. Expect to enjoy a wonderful week with an amazing line-up of films and super stars! 쐽

導演視覺 Director’s Choice

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 11

光影闪耀时光澳游 Time travel in Macau 今年 12 月，“2018 澳门光影节─ 时光澳游 ”将带来一系列瑰丽震撼的动感娱乐活动，包括光雕表演、虚拟实境（VR）游戏及灯饰装置。2018 澳门光影节由澳门特别行政区政府旅游局（MGTO）主办，民政总署、文化局和体育局合办，将于 12 月 2 日至 31 日晚上 7 时至 10 时上演 This December, Macao Light Festival 2018 presents a delightfully flamboyant and entertaining event featuring light, 3D mapping and VR games for the Macao Light Festival 2018 – Time Travel in Macao organised by the Macao Government Tourism Office (MGTO), co-organised by Civic and Municipal Affairs Bureau, the Cultural Affairs Bureau and the Sports Bureau. The Festival runs from 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm from 2nd to 31st December

自

2015 年举办首届以来，澳门光影节透过令人赞叹的灯光表演和 3D 光影效果展示了澳门世界遗产美丽的另一面。今年，为了在光影节中给观众缔造新体验，主办单位特邀来自葡萄牙、比利时和澳门共三支光影制作团队分别精心量身打造三个光雕表演，于大三巴牌坊分期呈献。 12 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

时光之旅探索澳门

今年的澳门光影节，游客可以加入光影闪耀的时光旅程，透过 3 条各具特色的主题路线串游 11 个景点，探索本澳不同区份：第 1 条路线 “与时光玩游戏 ”途经中区的玫瑰堂、大三巴牌坊，以及新地点包括俊秀围、草堆街、关前正街和康公庙前地及其他。

ince the inaugural edition in 2015, Macao Light Festival has showcased a different side of Macao World Heritage via stunning light displays and 3D effects. This year, in order to create new experiences in the Festival for tourists the organiser has invited teams from Portugal, Belgium and

Essential FESTIVAL

第 2 条路线 “青葱时光 ”则覆盖适合年轻一代的新地点，包括南西湾区的南湾湖水上活动中心及“南湾·雅文湖畔”。最后一条路线 “寻味岁月 ”网罗氹仔多个标志性建筑，途经嘉模堂区的“龙环葡韵” 以及新地点氹仔街市、北帝庙等。

多项新体验登场

灯光表演之外， 2018 澳门光影节还特备了多个灯饰及互动游戏来吸引观众及提升观众的参与互动：例如，籍由南湾湖水上活动中心的 “遨游澳门． VR 体验 ”，旅客可以用现场装备 VR 眼镜及机械臂，在高空 “遨游澳门 ”，享受 360 度沉浸式飞翔体验。此外，游客亦可参观设于 “南湾 ·雅文湖畔 ”的文创夜市，享受艺文乐趣，每逢周五、六、日那里还上演户外澳门本土音乐会，提供多元休闲体验。为体现澳门新获选为联合国教科文组织 — — “创意城市美食之都 ”，今年光影节也首设光影美食车发售饮品和手信，及于北帝庙前地呈上美食夜市，售卖澳门特色小吃。想了解更多节庆资讯及节目，请下载 2018 澳门光影节的手机应用程式。 쐽

Macau to tailor and stage three different projection mapping shows at the Ruins of St. Paul’s at different periods.

TIME TRAVEL Tourists can join a glittering journey across time to explore different attractions of the city through three distinctive themed routes featuring eleven locations. The Play Time route covers landmarks such as St. Dominic’s Church and the Ruins of St. Paul’s as well as new locations such as Pátio de Chôn Sau, Rua das Estalagens, Rua dos Ervanários and Largo do Pagode do Bazar, and more. Some new destinations for the younger generation like Nam Van Lake Nautical Centre and Anim’Arte Nam Van at Praia Grande (Nam Van) and Sai Van district are included in the second route known as Youth Time. Meanwhile, the Taste Time route presents an array of signature architectures in Taipa such as the Taipa Houses at Our Lady of Carmel Parish and new locations like the Taipa Municipal Market and Pak Tai Temple. NEW ATTRACTIONS In addition to the light shows, an array of interactive games and light installations have been designed to enchant spectators and enhance their participation: tourists, for example, can soar above Macao enjoying a panoramically scenic flight over the Nam Van Lake Nautical Centre with VR goggles. Visitors can also visit a fun cultural and creative night market at Anim’Arte Nam Van along with a local concert on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. With Macau a new UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, the Festival also features illuminated drinks and souvenirs from food trucks and the Gastronomy Night Market in front of Pak Tai Temple For more information and offers, please download The Macao Light Festival 2018 mobile app. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 13

体验美国传奇波普艺术家的奇幻之作 Experience the images of a legendary American Pop Artist 不论是否钟情于艺术，大家对一幅由两个人举着一颗发光爱心的图案应该都不会感到陌生，它的作者就是美国已故波普艺术家凯斯 · 哈林。即日起至年底，热爱艺术的你可前往“ 凯斯 · 哈林迷宫之旅 – 澳门站 ”一睹这位大师的 1 0 0 幅作品，探索他作品中的爱与和平思想主题 No matter whether you are an art fan or not, you are most likely familiar with an artwork showing a radiant heart-love motif lifted by two men drawn by late American Pop artist Keith Haring. From now to the end of the year, art fans can view 100 artworks of this master at the Keith Haring Maze Macau and explore the spirit of his message of Love and Peace 文/by EDWINA LIU 14 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential EXHIBITION

哈

林生于美国宾夕法尼亚州，其父是一名业余卡通画师，他小时候即深受父亲和迪士尼卡通的影响。童年时代便已醉心于乱涂乱画，大部分时间都与父亲一起作画。少年时在艺术学校学习商业艺术，直到 18 岁时读了一本 1923 年的书 — — 《The Art Spirit》（艺术精神），从此辍学以专注自己的艺术。哈林的绘画风格极具辨识度，都是用简单的线条绘画人物，并用具韵律的线条表示人物的动作。色彩运用大胆、抢眼。

在纽约地铁站的黑色背景上用白粉笔绘画的一些公共艺术作品，使哈林初次受到广泛关注，并从此成为迅速走红 1980 年代艺坛的艺术新星。虽然成为了国际明星，但他依然为任何邀请他的人绘画。他认为每个人都有权接触艺术，并且负担得起艺术。到 1986 年，他开了一家名为 Pop Shop（波普店）的商店，售卖印有他画作的 T 恤和纽扣。 1990 年 2 月 16 日，这位才华横溢的艺术家因艾滋病并发症逝世，享年 31 岁。自他逝

orn in Pennsylvania, Haring grew up under the influence of his father, an amateur cartoonist, and Walt Disney cartoons. Drawing and doodling were this boy’s life and he spent much of his time with his father drawing throughout his childhood. Young Haring studied Commercial Art in art school when he was 18, then read a book called The Art Spirit (1923), which propelled him to leave school and concentrate on his own art. 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 15

Essential EXHIBITION

世以后，国际上已为他举办过数次作品回顾展。如今，全世界主要博物馆的展览和藏品中都能看到他的作品。

哈林的澳门站

这个秋天，棋人娱乐制作（澳门）有限公司联同澳门设计中心，将哈林的作品带到澳门威尼斯人。这是全球首个凯斯·哈林主题的迷宫，精选出他彰显活力和决心的图画，鼓励人们乐观生活、活在当下。 16 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Haring’s drawing style is highly recognisable as he uses simple lines to draw the figures and make them move by adding rhythmic lines. The colours are bold and eye-catching. He first received public attention with his public art in New York subways, where he created white chalk drawings on a black background, quickly becoming an instant star of the 1980’s art world. Even after achieving international fame, he continued to draw sketches for

anyone who asked. He believed art should be accessible to everyone and should be affordable. In 1986, he opened the Pop Shop to sell his art on T-shirts and buttons. This gifted artist died of AIDS-related complications at the age of 31 on February 16, 1990. Since his passing, Haring has been the subject of several international retrospectives. His work can be seen today in the exhibitions and collections of major museums around the world.

Essential EXHIBITION

所有画作分布在一个心形迷宫里，以视觉方式生动呈现这位波普大师的独特故事。除了迷宫和许多的 3D 重现作品之外，观者还可攀上一座特别设计的桥，桥上有最佳拍照位置，能俯拍整个迷宫，以在社交媒体上分享图片和欢乐。哈林曾说： “每个人都能享受艺术。”离开展场之前，可以到纪念品商店购买凯斯· 哈林的作品及本次澳门站活动的特别版纪念品。 쐽

HARING IN MACAU This Autumn, Chessman Production Ltd. Macau, together with the Macau Design Centre, brings Keith Haring to The Venetian Macao. The first Keith Haring themed maze in the world showcases a selection of images representing the artist’s vitality and determination in encouraging people to be positive and live in the moment. The image selection has been curated in the heart-shaped maze to tell a unique visual

story. In addition to the maze and 3D reproductions on display at the venue, art fans can climb a specially designed bridge, which is the best photo spot, by the way, from which to capture the entire maze and share images on social media. “Art is for Everybody,” said Haring. Before leaving the exhibition, treat yourself to buying a Keith Haring artwork and special edition Macau event souvenirs from the souvenir store! 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 17

Essential WATCHES

百搭腕表 Perfect for any occasion 百达翡丽最著名的女装腕表系列焕然一新，以新颜搭配新机芯 One of the most famous women’s lines from Patek Philippe gets a new look and a new movement 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

atek Philippe百达翡丽的第一个 Twenty-4系列于1999年推出，并迅速成为畅销产品，其矩形设计的优雅表壳及铰接式表链分外引人注目。今天，差不多 20年后，日内瓦钟表品牌百达翡丽又推出了一个新系列，搭载324 S C自动上链机芯，精确度和可靠性出色。 18 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Twenty-4 Automatic 自动腕表系列保留了铰接式表链，但采用了有别于原版本的其他元素。例如 36 毫米表圆形壳，清晰而精致，配以倒角表圈更显美观。此外，略微弧形的蓝宝石水晶表盘突出了表壳的弧度。表盘采用金质阿拉伯数字时标、荧光涂层的巴顿式指针，以及六时位置的日

he first Twenty-4 collection from Patek Philippe was launched in 1999 and quickly became a bestseller, with the models’ rectangular case and the articulated bracelet the standout elements. Today, almost 20 years later, the Genevan manufacturer has launched a new line with a self-winding movement driven

Essential WATCHES

form of the case. It features golden Arabic numerals, baton hands with luminescent coating and a date display at 6 o’clock. With a power reserve of up to 45 hours, each model includes 217 components and 29 jewels. Available in five different versions – two in stainless steel set with diamonds and a blue or grey soleil dial, two in rose gold, also set with diamonds and with a brown or silver dial, and the last one in rose gold, with a diamond-set bezel, bracelet and crown and a silver dial –, this collection was conceived to meet the needs of the contemporary woman who wants a wrist companion for any time of the day or night. 쐽

期显示窗。腕表的动力储存长达 45 小时，每枚都包含 217 个组件和 29 颗宝石。新系列共提供五个不同的款式供选择：其中两款是不锈钢镶钻款式，蓝色或灰色日辉纹表盘；另两款是玫瑰金镶钻款式，棕色或银色表盘；最后一款是玫瑰金款式，配搭镶钻表圈、表链、表冠以及银色表盘。这个系列的设计旨在满足当代女性的需要，为她们带来无论在白天或黑夜的任何时候和场合都适合佩戴的腕表。 쐽

by the calibre 324 S C, a symbol of precision and reliability. The Twenty-4 Automatic collection maintains the articulated bracelet, but showcases other features that are a departure from the original creations. An example of that is the rounded format of its 36mm case, which is sober and sophisticated and enhanced by a bevelled bezel. In turn, the slightly curved sapphire crystal dial accentuates the curvilinear 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 21

Essential WATCHES

中国制造 Made in China 你会买 488 美元中国制造的瓷盘手表吗？ Do you want to pay US$488 for a China-made porcelain-dial watch? 文/by EDWINA LIU

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Essential WATCHES

长

久以来，“瑞士制造”都是高品质腕表的象征。但有四名年轻人想打破规则，他们成立“埃菲列文”公司，希望把高品质的中国机械腕表带向主流。更有趣的是，公司初创成员来自世界的不同角落，其中阮奕信和罗宾来自法国，而设计师李明亮（音译，拼音：Li Mingliang 的）和刘羽纶（音译，拼音：Liu Yuguan）来自中国。埃菲列文(Atelier Wen)，由法文单词 atelier （工作室）和中文字 “文 ”组成，意为 “文化工作室 ”。公司名字本身便已表达出产品的理念：来自法国和中国的设计师志在改写现代的中国式时尚，以新颖的形式呈献带有独特美学和故事的产品予懂得欣赏的人们。 “我们希望展示中国的制表技术，证明与欧洲的技术一样先进和精确，”阮奕信说， “但从更大的层面来看，我们想将中国时尚带到世界舞台，借此撼动全球人们对 ‘中国制造’的看法。” 罗宾（Robin Tallendier），埃菲列文的联合创始人，是中国腕表界大咖，现任中国钟表协会的执行专家。中国钟表协会是政府机构，负责监督和促进中国钟表行业的发展。在任职该协会之前，罗宾曾在上海的 French Chamber of Watchmaking（法国制表商会）工作以及供职于伦敦佳士得拍卖行。作为业内人士，他和他的团队都知道大多数西方腕表大牌其实都是外包给中国生产，只是没有公开承认而已。因此，他们认为中国的技术水平对于制造高品质的机械

wiss-made has been the symbol of high quality timepieces for a very long time. But four young men want to break the rules and hope to take high quality Chinese mechanical watches mainstream by setting up Atelier Wen. What is more intriguing is that the members of the team come from different corners of the earth, with Wilfried and Robin hailing from France and designers Li Mingliang and Liu Yuguan from China. Atelier Wen - ‘Cultural Workshop’ - combines the French word for workshop (Atelier) and the Chinese word for culture (Wen). The name is an embodiment of product as it is led by French and Chinese designers with a mission to redefine modern Chinese fashion and display it in a novel form that speaks to all who appreciate items with unique aesthetics and a story to tell. “We want to show Chinese horology can be just as advanced and refined as European horology,” says Wilfried. “But to a larger extent we want to burnish the image of ‘Made in China’ in the eyes of the world by bringing Chinese chic to the world stage.” Robin Tallendier, co-founder of Atelier Wen, is a Chinese watch guru and Execution Expert at the China Horologe Association (CHA). Robin worked in the French Chamber of Watchmaking in Shanghai and with Christie’s 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 23

腕表而言定会绰绰有余，因此想开发一个中国腕表品牌，使“中国制造”让人引以为豪。同为法国人的初创成员 Wilfried Buiron （中文名：阮奕信）也是一名中国通。他生于香港，居在北京，曾就读于中国顶尖学府清华大学，现在中文口语与中国人无异。此外，中国设计师刘羽纶和李明亮均来自国内著名的设计学院，擅长腕表设计和中国传统艺术。如此，埃菲列文诞生了。这支独一无二的团队决意创造出惊艳的中国腕表。

瓷之旅

埃菲列文的首个系列 — — Porcelain Odyssey(瓷之旅 )，已于 10 月份在众筹网站 Kickstarter 推出。该系列包含两个表款：霁和皓。 “我们想选取能表达中国传统工艺的材质，从丝绸到陶瓷和搪瓷，选择确实很多，”阮奕信说，“最终选择了陶瓷做表盘，这是比较个人化的选择，因为我们团队觉得将陶瓷的美反映在腕表上会显得格外有趣和有魅力。而且过往极少有腕表使用这种材质，这让我们觉得会更有吸引力，因为我们不仅想要概念独特，而且在材质和设计上也要同样出众。” 受元代陶艺的蓝色调启发，设计师刘羽纶使用不常见的蓝瓷作为表盘。“霁”有个独一无二的小表盘，灵感源自迷人的中国道家文化——八卦。八卦与时间有关，八卦图上不同方位代表太阳一天在天空中的不同位置，即不同的时间。另一表款“皓”，由李明亮设计，采用白瓷作为表盘，旨在向中国著名的青花瓷致敬。 24 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

in London before being appointed to the CHA - a government organisation that oversees and promotes business in the Chinese watch industry. As an industry insider he and his team members know that most big Western watch brands actually outsource their production to China without acknowledging it. Thus they believe that the technical expertise in China is more than enough to make high quality mechanical watches, and want to unveil a Chinese soul that would wear ‘Made in China’ as a badge of pride. Fellow French team member Wilfried Buiron is also an Old China Hand. Born in Hong Kong, he has lived in Beijing, studied atTsinghua University - the best in China - and speaks Chinese like a local. Meanwhile, Chinese designers Liu Yuguan and Li Mingliang come from one of China's finest design academies and specialise in watch design and traditional Chinese art. In this way Atelier Wen was born, with this unique team committed to making beautiful Chinese watches.

PORCELAIN ODYSSEY The first series of Atelier Wen - Porcelain Odyssey - launched on Kickstarter in October. This collection comprises models Ji and Hao. “We wanted to choose materials with a connection to traditional Chinese crafts - and from silk to porcelain to enamel - the range of

choices is wide indeed,” says Wilfried. “The final choice of porcelain dials was a personal one as our team finds their aesthetics particularly interesting and attractive in watches. Also, it is quite rarely used in watches, which for us added to its appeal as we wanted to make watches that stood out not only for their concept but for their materials and design.” Inspired by a blue shade of Yuan Dynasty pottery, designer Liu Yuguan uses uncommon blue porcelain for its dial. Inspired by the beautiful and historical Chinese culture, the Ji features a unique sub-dial with Taoist concept known as ‘Bagua’, which is related to time as each symbol represents a cardinal direction indicating the sun’s position in the sky . Another model designed by Li - Hao - is a white porcelain dial timepiece created in homage to the famous Chinese Qinghua ci porcelains. This prestigious watch combines a jasmine white porcelain dial and a structure similar to 1950s French and Swiss chronometer dials. Hao also upholds a unique sub-dial with Chinese characteristics in homage to Chinese time measurement called ‘Dizhi’, with the characters ‘Mao’ (5:00am-7:00am) and ‘You’ (5:00pm-7:00pm). “During the entire design process what we were aiming for was an aesthetic that would be unmistakably Chinese yet could be worn by anyone,” Wilfried explains. As such, its Chinese characteristics are subtle, implicit and can appeal to the French or Italian watch

Essential WATCHES

这款备受关注的腕表除了拥有茉莉白瓷盘，它的结构还融合了 1950 年代法国和瑞士计时表盘的风格。 “皓”备具中国特色的独特小表盘，灵感源自天干地支——中国远古时代对天象的观测。“卯 ”和 “酉 ”分别表示早上五点到七点以及晚上五点到七点，即日出和日落的时间。 “在整个设计过程中，我们都致力表现出高辨识度的中国美学，但同时又适合全世界的人佩戴，”阮奕信解释道。因此，腕表的中国特色是细腻、含蓄，即使是法国或意大利的腕表迷，都会跟中国腕表爱好者一样爱上这个系列。阮奕信接着说：“如此，我们就与其他中国品牌非常不同。他们有时候想表达中国的特色但在设计上却往往缺乏微妙之处，导致对国际消费者的吸引力全失，甚至在很大程度上吸引不了中国消费者。” 这两个表款采用辽宁孔雀表业最高级的 SL 3006 机芯，用 316L 船用级钢打造 39mm 直径的复古“step-case”（阶梯式边缘）设计表壳，双面均采用镜面抛光。辽宁孔雀表业有限公司是全国最著名的制表公司，历史悠久，是中国统机机芯的主要制造商之一。两款表的另一亮点是底盖均有 0.6mm 的高凸浮雕，雕塑着中国传奇动物 — — 鲲鹏，并采用抛光和喷砂处理。霁和皓都有三种表带选择：蓝色小牛皮、灰色翻毛皮、三文鱼皮革。中国成语 “乘风破浪”烫印在表带背面，代表着一种祝福，也彰显埃菲列文志在通过现代艺术展现中国传统文化和中国腕表行业。 쐽

aficionado in the same way as the Chinese watch enthusiast. “In doing so, we have strongly set ourselves apart from other Chinese brands that sometimes attempt to display a Chinese identity but often lack subtlety in design, which therefore completely loses its appeal for an international audience and even Chinese audience to a large extent,” he says. These two models feature the Peacock top grade SL 3006 movement in a 39mm case made of 316L steel with step-case design and dual mirror-polish. Liaoning Peacock Watch Company, the most famous watchmaking company in the country, has a long history in this industry and was a key manufacturer of Chinese Standard movements. Another highlight of the watches is the 0.6mm high-relief frosted, polished embossing of Kunpeng, an animal of Chinese legend. Each model offers three strap options from blue calf leather grey nubuck to blue salmon leather. The artisan also hot-stamps the Chinese proverb ‘Cheng Feng Po Lang’- to ride the wind and break the waves - which is a blessing and the brand’s ambition to harness modern art to showcase Chinese heritage and the Chinese watch industry. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 25

传奇法拉利 The man, the myth 汽车史上最杰出的人物去世已达三十年。恩佐 · 法拉利（Enzo Ferrari）是一名车手、运动经理和汽车制造商，但最重要的是，他是世界上最著名的造梦者 Three decades have passed since the death of the most prominent figure in the history of cars. Enzo Ferrari was a driver, sports director and car constructor, but above all else, he was the world’s most famous creator of dreams 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

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Essential LEGEND

014年，咨询公司Brand Finance连续第二年将 Ferrari法拉利评为全球最具影响力的品牌。不仅仅是相对于其他汽车品牌，而是就每个细分市场中的所有品牌而言。谷歌，苹果，乐高，迪士尼，可口可乐，保时捷，宝马，奔驰，他们都落后了。 Brand Finance首席执行官 David Haigh根据从数个国家进行的研究中推断出的衡量标准，以以下方式来证实法拉利的出类拔萃： “在全世界，人们都能立即识别黄色徽章内的跃马标志，即使在还没通铺面公路的地方。在其祖国意大利以及世界各地的众多崇拜者中，法拉利不仅仅激发了品牌忠诚度，它激发的更多是崇拜式的、甚至是准宗教式的虔诚信奉。” 我们在谈论的是一家目前每年销售 8,000 辆汽车的制造商，其销售份额只占全球汽车市场的 0.08％。但法拉利不仅仅是一辆汽车。很久以前，250 GTO、California Spyder

和 330 P4 等车型已超越汽车本身。它们是收录进 20 世纪历史书中，吸引无数世代的艺术作品。法国车手阿兰·普罗斯特（Alain Prost）在 1990 赛季驾驶的法拉利 F1-90 赛车是第一辆被列入纽约现代艺术博物馆永久收藏的汽车。对于法拉利车迷来说，David Haigh 所指的虔诚信奉让人对此说法毫无疑问：恩佐 ·法拉利是神。其员工和车手喜唤他以绰号 Il Commendatore（同志），Il Drake（“德雷克”）或者 Il Vecchio（“老爷子 ”），无论如何，法拉利现在或将来都是汽车行业历史上最著名的名字。恩佐·安塞尔莫·法拉利（Enzo Anselmo Ferrari）1898 年 2 月 18 日出生在意大利摩德纳的一个贫困家庭。由于雷暴袭击摩德纳两天，他的父母无法离家出外为他们的第二个婴孩进行出生登记。官方资料显示，排行最小的法拉利出生于 2 月 20 日。

n 2014, the consultancy firm Brand Finance named Ferrari the most powerful brand in the world for the second year running. Not just in the running with other car brands, but with all those that exist in every segment of the market. Google, Apple, Lego, Disney, CocaCola, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes; they all trailed behind. David Haigh, CEO of Brand Finance, justified the distinction, based on metrics deduced from studies undertaken in several countries, in the following way: “The prancing horse on a yellow badge is instantly recognisable the world over, even where paved roads have yet to reach. In its home country and among its many admirers worldwide, Ferrari inspires more than just brand loyalty, more of a cultish, even quasi-religious devotion.” We’re talking about a manufacturer that currently sells 8,000 cars a year, or 0.08% of the 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 27

Essential LEGEND

他的父亲阿尔弗雷多（Alfredo）是一位铁匠，他在家旁边的小屋建造了自己的小型车间（加工金属零件)，而他的母亲阿达吉萨· 比斯比尼（Adalgisa Bisbini）则照顾孩子、打理家务和其他一切事务。第一次世界大战的开打是欧洲历史上的决定性时刻，法拉利家族直接承受了武装冲突带来的悲惨后果。恩佐·法拉利的父亲老阿尔弗雷多和兄长小阿尔弗雷多都成为了 1916 年流感肆虐的受害者，甚至恩佐本人也在意大利皇家陆军第三山地炮兵团服役时与死亡擦肩。出

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于健康原因他被送回家，挣扎求存并助母亲免遭饥荒击倒，当时邪恶的饥荒因为显而易见的原因（战争）而席卷全国。这对他们母子两人来说都是困难时期，但无可否认这段艰难岁月锤炼了小恩佐的个性。他面对生活和事业的冷静以及他盲目地专注于目标的能力，无疑是由他生命里头 20 年的艰辛所形塑。继续经营他父亲的零件车间绝不是恩佐的选择。自小以来，这位年轻人就说他的梦想是在汽车行业有所成就。如同许多其他退下战场的士兵一样，恩佐前往都灵向菲亚特

global car market. But Ferrari is much more than a car. Models such as the 250 GTO, the California Spyder and the 330 P4 became more than just vehicles a long time ago, becoming something comparable to a Picasso painting or an Alberto Giacometti sculpture. They are works of art that feature in 20th-century history books and which capture generations. The Ferrari F1-90, which Alain Prost drove in the 1990 season, was the first car to be part of the permanent collection at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Essential LEGEND

求职，但被拒绝。几个月后，恩佐遇到了一位名叫斯沃齐（Sivocci）的前自行车手。他们一见如故成为好友，因此斯沃齐说服其 CMN （Costruzioni Meccaniche Nazionali）公司的老板雇用法拉利。在 CMN，恩佐开始将无用的旧货车车身改装为成人们买得起的廉价小车。在某种程度上，恩佐开始成为同事中的一名优秀车手，这最终传到了管理层的耳中，他们将他晋升为公司的官方试车手。他参加了 1919 年的 Parma - Poggio di Berceto 爬坡大赛，这是他首次上阵赛车。这次恩佐·法拉利夺得了第四名。同年，他在意大利千哩大赛车 Mille Miglia 首次亮相，但座驾 CMN 15 hp 漏水，使他无法完成赛事。强大的阿尔法 ·罗密欧车队喜欢这位摩德纳年轻人的态度，并于 1920 年雇请恩佐成为车队的一员。尽管如此，恩佐从未取得过彪炳战绩。

For the Ferraristi, the devotion to which David Haigh refers leaves no doubt of one thing: Enzo Ferrari was a god. Il Commendatore, Il Drake, or Il Vecchio, as he was called by his employees and drivers, is the most famous name in the history of the car industry, and so it will remain. His doctrine was simultaneously simple and impossible to copy: how to materialise the most basic human dream – the dream of freedom – in an object with four wheels. Enzo Anselmo Ferrari was born into a poor family in Modena on February 18, 1898. Due to a thunderstorm that thrashed the city for two days, his parents were unable to leave the house to register the birth of their second child. Officially, the youngest Ferrari was born on February 20.

of death when he served in the 3rd Mountain Artillery Regiment. He was sent home for health reasons, managed to survive and helped his mother escape famine, an evil that swept the country for obvious reasons. These were difficult times for both of them, but which undeniably marked the personality of a young Enzo. The coolness with which he faced life and business and the way in which he blindly focused on objectives were certainly moulded by the hardships of the first 20 years of his life. Keeping his father’s workshop was never an option. From very early on, the youngster had said that his dream would be to do something in the car industry. FIAT was the largest Italian industrial conglomerate and, in the possession of a letter of recommendation from his senior officer, Enzo travelled to Turin to ask for a

意大利冠军车手安东尼奥 ·阿斯卡里（Antonio Ascari）1925 年于比赛中因事故去世，对恩佐产生了深远的影响，自此他改变了对赛车的态度。他开始铺设另一条人生道路 — — 与体育管理更相关的道路，而他的人际关系能力以及他多年来建立的联系可望开花结果。法拉利于 1923 年与摩德纳的一位舞蹈演员劳拉（Laura Dominica Garello）结婚。他们唯一的孩子出生于 1932 年，取名阿尔弗雷多（Alfredo），以纪念他的祖父和伯伯。恩佐·法拉利和劳拉的关系一直紧张，主要是因为恩佐自始至终都有其他情人。 1930 年，甚至在 Dino 迪诺（大儿子阿尔弗雷多的小名）出生之前，法拉利就开始与一名叫丽娜（Lina Lardi）的 20 岁女子发生婚外

His father, Alfredo, a blacksmith by trade, built his modest workshop in a shack beside the house, while his mother, Adalgisa Bisbini, took care of the children, the home and everything else. Without the development that was already happening in countries such as England, Germany and France, late 19th-century Italy offered few prospects for its poorest inhabitants. Both Enzo and his brother, Alfredo Jr., spent too little time at school for the education system to serve their future in any way. The beginning of the First World War was a decisive time in European history, and the Ferrari family suffered the tragic consequences of the armed conflict first-hand. Alfredo Sr. and Alfredo Jr fell victim to the flu pandemic of 1916, and even Enzo himself was at the brink

job, as did many other soldiers returned from the war. Rejected, the youth from Modena recounted of how he walked to Valentino Park, wiped the snow off a bench, sat down and cried. At that moment in time, his life prospects were bleak. A few months later, Enzo met a former cyclist called Sivocci. A friendship was born between them that led the latter to convince his employer to hire Ferrari. At CMN (Costruzioni Meccaniche Nazionali), Enzo began by turning the bodies of useless old cars into small, cheap cars that people could buy. In one way or another way, Enzo started to become known as an excellent driver among his colleagues, which reached the ears of the administration who promoted him to the company’s test driver. 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 29

Essential LEGEND

情。二儿子皮耶罗 ·拉蒂 ·法拉利 (Piero Lardi Ferrari)出自他与丽娜的情爱关系。皮耶罗 1945 年出生，但早期并未受到公开的承认，直到妻子劳拉于 1978 年去世，恩佐才正式承认了这个儿子。今天，皮耶罗是他父亲创立的公司中最具代表性的人物。

战略转变

恩佐 ·法拉利希望在阿尔法 ·罗密欧内部谋得一席之位，主要负责管理赛事而不是驾车参赛。于是他在 1929 年 11 月 16 日在博洛尼亚组织了一次私人晚宴，在晚宴中，他描绘了自己的未来宏图。恩佐向纺织业巨子 Augusto 和 Alfredo Caniato 以及富裕的业余车手 Mario Tadini 寻求财政资助，目标是利用阿尔法·罗密欧的赛车资源，成立一个以自己名字命名的车队。 1932 年长子迪诺出生前，恩佐都坚持自己驾车参赛。同年，以黄色为背景的跃马（Cavallino Rampante）标志在斯帕 24 小时耐力赛（24 Hours of Spa）上第一次出现于阿尔法 ·罗密欧赛车上。两辆阿尔法 ·罗密欧 8C 2300 MM 获得冠亚军，拔得头筹的是 Antonio Brivio 和 Eugenio Siena，屈居亚军的是 Piero Taruffi 和 Guido d’Ippolito。著名的跃马车标背后也有一个特别的故事。跃马是意大利空军王牌法兰斯科 ·巴拉卡（Francesco Baracca）的母亲送给恩佐 ·法拉利的。法兰斯科·巴拉卡在第一次世界大战中战功赫赫。他最初在意大利陆军服役，1916 年，他取得了自己的首个空中胜利，驾驶战机击落了来自斯图加特的一架德国侦查机。在坠落的侦察机残骸中，他发现了画在机身上的跃立的骏马，这是斯图加特城市市徽顶部的装饰。法兰斯科把这匹跃马作为战利品画在自己的飞机上。1923 年，法兰斯科的父亲 Enrico Baracc 伯爵在拉文纳（Ravenna）Savio 赛道上亲眼见证了恩佐·法拉利驾驶阿尔法·罗密欧夺冠。他主动向恩佐介绍了自己，在第二次会面时，法兰斯科的母亲 Paolina Baracca 便把儿子的护身符跃马标志送给了恩佐·法拉利。 1933 年，阿尔法·罗密欧进入了一段严重的财政困难时期，唯一能让赛车运动保持活 30 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

His official debut in a race took place on the Parma – Poggio di Berceto hill in 1919. Enzo Ferrari placed fourth. In the same year, he debuted in the Mille Miglia, but a water leak in his CMN 15 hp stopped him from finishing. The powerful Alfa Romeo liked what it saw in the attitude of the young man from Modena, and hired him to be part of its racing team in 1920. But Enzo never saw great results; at least nothing like his peers Antonio Ascari and Luigi Villoresi, two great drivers of that time. His most prestigious victory happened at Coppa Acerbo in 1924, in the city of Pescara. The death of Antonio Ascari in 1925 had a deep impact on Enzo, who was never the same behind the wheel. He began paving another path more tied to sports management, where his skills in human relations and the contacts he obtained over the years could bear fruit. Ferrari married Laura Dominica Garello, a dancer also from Modena, in 1923. Signora Ferrari always held hope that her husband would see sense and eventually abandon the world of car racing, and even suggested that Enzo accept

a position at the municipal tram company. But fortunately for all those who dream about the Cavallino Rampante, that didn’t happen. Their only child, Alfredo, like his grandfather and uncle before him, was born in 1932. Sadly for his parents, Dino, as he was affectionately known, despite being a brilliant student and a fan of the motoring world, suffered from a serious case of muscle dystrophy from very early on, and died prematurely at just 24 years of age. His biggest legacy for the brand was to convince his father to produce a family of V6 engines, which eventually won the F1 World Championship in 1958 and led to the first mid-engine Ferrari road model, which Enzo christened Dino. Today, it is one of the most admired classics among the Ferraristi and considered one of the most beautiful cars of all time. Enzo Ferrari and Laura Garello’s relationship was never easy, mainly because Enzo always maintained other love interests. In 1930, even before Dino was born, Ferrari embarked on an affair with a 20-year-old called Lina Lardi, a relationship he maintained until the end of his life. From that relationship, Piero Lardi Ferrari was born in 1945, a son that Enzo never acknowledged publicly until Laura’s death in 1978. Today, Piero is the most iconic figure of the company founded by his father and owner of 10% of its capital. He was also there for many of the most important decisions that moulded the brand in the last three decades.

CHANGE OF TRACK Enzo’s pursuit of a role within Alfa Romeo that was more focused on sports management and not on driving led him to organise a dinner in the city of Bologna on November 16, 1929, where he started to outline the future. He requested financial support from Augusto and Alfredo Caniato, the heirs of an enormous industrial textile empire, and Mario Tadini, a wealthy amateur driver. The goal was to form a

Essential LEGEND

力的方法就是让法拉利车队成为官方车队。恩佐·法拉利在管理车手和开发赛车方面的才华也日臻成熟，1937 年底，随着财政状况稳定，阿尔法 ·罗密欧收购了法拉利车队，并成立了一个全新的部门 Alfa Corse，对赛事进行集中化管理。在十多年的时间里，恩佐组建了一支半职业车队，拥有 40 多名车手，包括 Achille Varzi 和 Tazio Nuvolari 等世界顶级车手。 1939 年，恩佐·法拉利和阿尔法·罗密欧协议终止合作，条件是四年内恩佐不能使用 Scuderia Ferrari 法拉利车队这个名字，甚至连法拉利也不能用。于是，恩佐创立了 Auto Avio Costruzioni (AAC)，为其他汽车制造商生产零部件。但第二次世界大战的爆发对汽车行业产生了致命的的打击，并导致意大利所有的体育赛事停办。多年的战事让意大利饱受打击，战后不得不从零开始，重新塑造自己成为注重设计的先进的工业和技术国家。 1974 年在马拉内罗镇（Maranello）成立的一家小公司为意大利国家形象的重塑贡献卓越，该公司目的是制造赛车，公司名为法拉利公司（Ferrari S.p.A.）。第一代法拉利 125 S 于 1947 年 5 月 11 日在皮亚琴察（Piacenza）赛道首次亮相。在一周后的罗马格兰披治大赛车（Rome Grand Prix）上拔得头魁。次年， Luigi Chinetti 和 Peter Mitchell-Thomson 驾驶法拉利 166 MM 获得了首个勒芒 24 小时耐力赛冠军。法拉利传奇就此开始，1950 年，法拉利报名参加了

racing team in his own name, using the sports resources of Alfa Romeo. Even then, Ferrari kept driving until Dino’s birth in 1932, the year that the Cavallino Rampante symbol on a yellow background appeared for the first time on an Alfa Romeo racecar, at the 24 Hours of Spa. Two Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 MM took the highest steps of the podium. Antonio Brivio and Eugenio Siena were the winners, with Piero Taruffi and Guido d’Ippolito right behind them. The famous emblem also has a peculiar story behind it. The prancing horse was given to Enzo Ferrari by the mother of Francesco Baracca, the most illustrious ace in Italian aviation during the First World War. Originally part of the cavalry regiment of the Italian army, Baracca learnt to fly in France and got his pilot’s licence in 1912, when he enlisted in the Corpo Aeronautico Militare. Baracca’s first victory in the skies took place in 1916, against a German reconnaissance plane from Stuttgart. Among the wreckage of the German aircraft, Baracca found a prancing horse painted on the fuselage, the same one that adorns the crest of the city of Stuttgart. As a spoils-of-war, Baracca painted the enemy’s horse on his own plane. The Italian pilot claimed a total of 34 personal victories during the time he fought for his country, but he passed away in 1918, shot down in an

aerial battle in Austrian skies. Five years later, on June 17, 1923, Count Enrico Baracca, Francesco’s father, witnessed Enzo Ferrari’s victory on the Savio track in Ravenna, at the wheel of an Alfa Romeo. Enrico introduced himself to the victor, and that conversation led to a second meeting, in which Countess Paolina Baracca gave Ferrari the symbol of her son’s plane as a good luck amulet. Enzo accepted the gift and added a canary yellow background – the colour of Modena, his birthplace. It is indeed incredible that Ferrari and Porsche, perhaps the two biggest rivals in the car industry in terms of prestige and number of fans, and also separated by a political border and 700km, share the same Cavallino Rampante in its symbols. Based in Stuttgart, the German brand displays the city’s symbol on the emblem of its cars, the same one that the Baracca family gave to Enzo. Incredible is a euphemism. In 1933, Alfa Romeo started going through a period of serious financial difficulties, and the only way to stay active in racing was to make the Scuderia Ferrari its official team. Ferrari’s genius as a manager of both man and machine was being refined constantly, and in late 1937, apparently with its finances stable, Alfa Romeo bought Scuderia Ferrari and inaugurated a new department that would centralise sports management, called Alfa Corse. 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 31

Essential LEGEND

一个全新类别赛事 — — Formula 1 一级方程式。1951 年，在银石（Silverstone）赛道，José Froilán Gonzalez 驾驶法拉利成功击败了强大的阿尔法 ·罗密欧 Tipo 159，为法拉利取得了首个 F1 冠军。仅用了一年时间，法拉利就获得了第一个总冠军，由 Alberto Ascari 与法拉利车队在马拉内罗（Maranello）获得，且在 12 个月后再夺冠军。为了能够资助比赛和确保持续研发赛车，恩佐被迫开始生产公路车型。一场汽车革命就此拉开。国王、王子、总统、好莱坞明星和摇滚巨星，如披头士和猫王，纷纷敲开

32 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

法拉利的大门，驾驶着地球上最迷人的汽车出现在世人面前。意大利导演罗伯特·罗塞里尼（Roberto Rossellini）甚至为妻子英格丽 ·褒曼（Ingrid Bergman）特别定制了一款车型。底盘编号为 0402AM 的敞篷跑车 375 MM Speciale，在 1954 年要价 400 万里拉，并且精心喷涂上色，所用色彩叫做 Grigio Ingrid 英格丽灰。恩佐心甘情愿地接受着名流富贾的钱财，但却从未放弃过自己的信念。在面对客户、供应商、媒体和公众时，都戴着墨镜。他将墨镜作为自己对外人的防御，在任何情况下都不会表露自己的感情。用紫色墨水签名也是其独特特色之一。

In little over a decade, Enzo had formed a semi-professional team that encompassed more than 40 drivers, including names that featured in the list of the best in the world, such as Achille Varzi and Tazio Nuvolari. The latter won the most famous race in the early 20th century and the one that would put the Ferrari name on everyone’s lips. On July 28, 1935, Tazio Nuvolari and his Alfa Romeo P3 (Tipo B) from the Scuderia Ferrari aligned for the German Grand Prix at Nürburgring, the longest and most dangerous race track in the world. Since Hitler’s Socialist Party had come to power two years earlier, investment in the sport had grown exponentially, as the Führer saw it as yet another way to demonstrate German supremacy. Mercedes and Auto Union shared an annual budget of 900,000 marks from the state and brought in four times that figure themselves. The year 1934 saw the birth of the two most advanced racecars in history to date: the Mercedes W125 and the Auto Union Type A V16, the latter designed by Ferdinand Porsche. In front of a crowd of 330,000 spectators, the representatives of the Third Reich were so sure that one of their drivers would win that they didn’t even bother to have the Italian national anthem to hand, which would might be played if Scuderia Ferrari won – it was perhaps the only one that, realistically but unlikely, could challenge them. Halfway through the 22 laps – or of the four hours expected –, Nuvolari suffered a poor pit stop and set off in sixth place, behind Stuck, Faggioli, Rosemeyer, Caracciola and the leader Mercedes W125, driven by Manfred Von Brauchitsch. Two laps later, Nuvolari, who, as

Essential LEGEND

法拉利其人

意大利传奇车手安东尼奥 ·阿斯卡里在蒙扎（Monza）驾驶法拉利 750 Monza 遭遇车祸身亡，事发当天接到电话的恩佐·法拉利问的第一个问题是：“车还好吗？ ”。他的态度有时会被身边的人误解，对于从远处看他的人更是如此，但事实是，他根本就不在乎。他甚至拒绝前往梵蒂冈，因为那里太远，会打乱他在马拉内罗的工作状态。汽车界许多著名人物都因法拉利的性情而与他断交：例如，美国巨头亨利·福特二世（Henry Ford II），因为恩佐同意把法拉利卖给他，却在最后一刻食言；美国车坛传奇卡罗尔·谢尔比（Carroll Shelby），因为他认为，恩佐通过让车手们相互竞争而提高他们的速度，让他们更有野心，是把他们置于严重的危险之中；费鲁乔 ·兰博基尼（Ferruccio Lamborghini）因为恩佐对他很是蔑视。费鲁乔 ·兰博基尼是位富有的拖拉机制造商，他购买了一辆法拉利 250 GT 来庆祝公司的成功，第一次去马拉内罗进行年度保养时，兰博基尼意识到这辆珍贵的法拉利的离合器和他的拖拉机离合器是一样的。他立即要求与恩佐 ·法拉利会面，要求更换离合器，而恩佐回答说，制造拖拉机的人对跑车一无所知。费鲁乔在地板上吐了口唾沫，转身离去，四个月后，他推出了 3500 GTV——史上第一辆兰博基尼。换句话说，兰博基尼成为闻名遐迩

accounts of that day say, was “possessed by a demon”, was up to second place, but a minute and a half behind the leader. Going in to the 21st lap, the Flying Mantuan (as he was known for being from the city of Mantua) had already recovered a minute from Mercedes. Von Brauchitsch ended up pushing the German car’s mechanics too much and blew a tire, falling by the wayside. After crossing the finish line, Nuvolari himself handed the organisation a recording of Il Canto degli Italiani so that it would play on the circuit’s speakers. Hitler had lost; Nuvolari and Ferrari had won. The transalpine driver became a legend, and the Ferrari name became a part of the motor racing vocabulary. In 1939, Enzo and Alfa Romeo came to an agreement to terminate his contract, on the condition that the first couldn’t use the name Scuderia Ferrari, or even just Ferrari, for a period of four years. So Enzo founded Auto Avio Costruzioni (AAC), which produced components for other brands, but the start of the Second World War had a deeply negative impact on the car industry and put a full stop on all sporting events in Italy. It was the premature end of AAC. Just like all the other factories in the country, Enzo had to contribute to the war effort. The years of the conflict were very tough

for the country, which had to start from scratch post-war and reinvent itself as an industrially and technologically advanced nation, with an emphasis on design and the fundamental beauty of objects, as we know it today. Contributing to this was a small company based in the town of Maranello, founded in 1974, with the purpose of manufacturing racecars, called Ferrari S.p.A.. That this would eventually become the most famous car make in the world and that it would have a decisive influence on all Western culture, not even Enzo Ferrari could have imagined. The 125 S, the first Ferrari to be produced, debuted on the Piacenza circuit on May 11, 1947 with Franco Cortese at the wheel. The first victory came just a week later at the Rome Grand Prix, with the same driver. In the following year, Enzo debuted a win at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, with a 166 MM driven by Luigi Chinetti and Peter Mitchell-Thomson. Chinetti, who came to play a key role in the future of Ferrari as a US importer of the brand, drove for 23 of the 24 hours. The legend began taking shape and, in 1950, Ferrari signed up to a new category called Formula 1, being the only team to take part in all world championships of the premier class of motor racing since its inception. The first victory came at Silverstone in 1951, at the hands of José Froilán Gonzalez, who beat the powerful Alfa Romeo Tipo 159. It is said that Enzo wept when he said, “I killed my mother”. The first championship title took just another year to arrive at Maranello, and Alberto Ascari and the Scuderia would repeat the achievement 12 months later. To be able to finance the races and maintain constant development of its racing models, Enzo was forced to start producing cars not only for the track, but also to be used on the road. It was a revolution. Kings, princes, presidents, Hollywood stars and rock gods, such as the Beatles and Elvis Presley, were knocking on Maranello’s door to be seen at the wheel of the most fascinating cars on the planet. Roberto Rossellini even got Ferrari to produce a specific model for his wife, Ingrid Bergman. The 375 MM Speciale, 0402AM chassis, cost the Italian director 4 million lira in 1954 and was painted in the colour Grigio Ingrid, created purposely for that effect. In 2016, what is one of the most stunning Ferraris ever won the most prestigious annual trophy for a classic car, picking up Best of Show at the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. Enzo willingly accepted the money of the rich and famous, but he never abandoned his convictions. Dark glasses were ever-present in all meetings with clients, suppliers, press and public, which Ferrari used as a defence mechanism and as a way not to show his feelings in any situation. His signature in purple ink was another trademark. There are also countless quotes that Ferrari-lovers like to reproduce and that reflect Enzo’s approach to his cars and the 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 33

的汽车制造商，而非拖拉机制造商，还要感谢恩佐·法拉利呢。 1969 年，71 岁的法拉利做出了一生中最艰难的决定之一：将公司 50%的股份卖给菲亚特（FIAT）。原因很简单：法拉利车队参加了越来越多的比赛，甚至更多赛事类别，对于这样一个小公司来说，在最高水平的比赛上所需的资本实在太多了。然而，法拉利附加了一个约束条件：车队的控制权以及所有与赛车和车手相关的决定都将由他来定。恩佐·法拉利从来没有度过假，每天都去马拉内罗的办公室。即使是某个周六或周日，全家人一起去了亚得里亚海（Adriatic）沿岸的 Viserba 度假屋，恩佐也能在天黑前出现在工厂里。这种痴迷，这种对汽车和竞争的绝对热情，为法拉利这个名字——无论是他本人还是他的汽车——带来了独特光环。

法拉利的辉煌历史

在恩佐 ·法拉利逝世 30 周年之际，他的传奇包括 234 场 F1 冠军、15 个车手冠军、16 个车队冠军、219 个杆位和 246 个最快圈速，这些数字使法拉利车队成为赛车史上最成功的 F1 车队。除此之外，法拉利还在勒芒 24 小时耐力赛上取得了 9 次胜利，并在前 9 次世界耐力锦标赛（World Endurance Championships）中获得了 7 次冠军。每个星期，法拉利都会在全球最负盛名的拍卖会上打破某个记录；无论是有史以来最先进的公路车型 LaFerrari Aperta，还是价值最高的 250 GTO 车型。2017 年，一位收藏家决定

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way he managed the company. “The best Ferrari is the next one”; “Aerodynamics is for those who can’t build engines”; and the most famous of all, “If you can dream it, you can do it”.

FERRARI, THE MAN On the day that Alberto Ascari lost his life in Monza in a Ferrari 750 Monza (!), Enzo Ferrari received the news by telephone. His first question was: “How is the car?”. His attitude was sometimes misunderstood by those around him, and even more so by those who saw him from afar, but the truth is that Enzo didn’t care. He even refused to go to the Vatican, because it was too far and would disturb his work dynamic in Maranello. Some of the most famous names in the car industry cut ties with Ferrari because of his temperament. Henry Ford II, because Enzo agreed to sell Ferrari to the American giant and went back on his word at the last minute. Carroll Shelby, because he thought that, by putting drivers against each other to make them faster and more ambitious, Ferrari was responsible for many of their deaths, including some of Shelby’s closest friends, such as Luigi Musso. Ferruccio Lamborghini, because Enzo belittled him. The wealthy tractor manufacturer bought a Ferrari 250 GT to celebrate the success of his company, and on his first trip to Maranello for the annual maintenance, Lamborghini realised that the clutch of the precious Cavallino was the

same as that of his tractors. He immediately requested a meeting with Enzo Ferrari demanding a new piece – to which Enzo answered that someone who makes tractors doesn’t know anything about sports cars. Ferruccio spat on the floor, turned his back and in four months he presented the 3500 GTV, the first Lamborghini in history. In other words, the Lamborghini we know is a manufacture of cars, not of tractors, and we can thank Enzo Ferrari for that. In 1969, aged 71, Ferrari made one of the most difficult decisions of his life: to sell 50% of the company to FIAT. The reason was simple: Scuderia was involved in more and more races, more categories, and the necessary capital to compete at the highest level started to become too much for such a small firm. Besides that, legislation regarding road models was becoming tighter, naturally, which increased development costs. However, Ferrari added a binding condition: the control of the racing team and all the decisions relating to cars and drivers would remain in his control. Enzo Ferrari never took holidays and went to the office at the Maranello factory every day. Even if it was a Saturday or a Sunday, and the family had all gone together to the holiday home in Viserba, on the Adriatic, Enzo could be seen at the factory until the end of the day. This obsession, this absolute passion for cars and competition was what generated the very unique aura around the Ferrari name – be it the man himself or his cars.

Essential LEGEND

以 7200 万美元购买唯一已知从未发生过事故的 250 GTO。你没有看错：从所有的理性角度来看，竟然要花费 7200 万美元，购买一辆性能不及大众高尔夫 GTI 的汽车。但当然，世界各地 tifosi（意大利语，意指支持者）的卧室墙壁上或者电脑和智能手机壁纸上都有很多法拉利标志性的车型。Rosso Corsa 红色（汽车界最著名的颜色）法拉利是 20 世纪和 21 世纪视觉文化中不可或缺的元素，无论是买得起还是只能在梦中拥有，都可谓老少皆知。人们对恩佐·法拉利作品的热切渴求似乎无穷无尽。恩佐法拉利逝世于 1988 年 8 月 18 日，至今已 30 年，但他的精神却依旧活在马拉内罗生产线的每个部门。法拉利一直被认为是人们最愿意工作的意大利公司，每个月都会收到成千上万的求职申请。时光流逝，法拉利品牌不断突破汽车业的极限，成为无法复制的独特的集体想象力的一部分。只有少数人尝试、体验过它，且会继续去尝试、体验。恩佐 ·法拉利标志着战后意大利和欧洲的复兴史。他的大名超越了个人、引人注目，他创立的品牌成为一个标志，是一个珍视美丽、浪漫和生活乐趣的国家的独特象征和骄傲。恩佐 ·法拉利正正是将这三种成分融合一起，并加上四个轮子。非常感谢，法拉利同志。 쐽

THE FERRARI LEGACY On the 30th anniversary of his death, the legend of Enzo Ferrari comprises 234 F1 victories, 15 Drivers’ Championships, 16 Constructors’ Titles, 219 pole positions and 246 fastest laps, numbers that make the Scuderia the most successful F1 team in the history of motorsport. Adding to that are the nine 24 Hours of Le Mans victories and seven titles in the first nine World Endurance Championships. Every week, a Ferrari wins a race somewhere, however remote the track, wherever there is an official race. And it’s rare for a driver not to say that their dream is to drive for Ferrari and be part of a lineage without equal, which, besides those previously mentioned, includes Juan Manuel Fangio, John Surtees, Phil Hill, Niki Lauda, Gilles Villeneuve, Michael Schumacher and that boy that Michael took under his wing as a child and who always told him his life’s dream was to be a Formula 1 driver for the Scuderia. His name is Sebastian Vettel. Every week, a Ferrari also breaks some sort of record at the most prestigious auctions the world over; be it a LaFerrari Aperta, the most advanced road Ferrari ever, or a 250 GTO, the most valuable vehicle ever made. In 2017, a collector decided to spend $72 million on the

only known 250 GTO to never have had even the slightest accident. It’s not a typo: it was really $72 million spent on a car that, in all rational aspects, is less capable than a Volkswagen Golf GTI. But of course, there are many more iconic models that adorn bedroom walls or are the wallpaper on computers and smartphones of the tifosi (the Italian word for supporters) the world over. A Ferrari painted in Rosso Corsa, the most famous colour in the car world, is an integral element of the visual culture of the 20th and 21st centuries, recognisable by old and young everywhere, by those who can buy one and by those who can only dream. The passion for Enzo’s creations seems to have no end. Enzo Ferrari died 30 years ago, on August 18, 1988, but his spirit is alive in each unit that leaves the Maranello production line. Ferrari is constantly considered the best company to work for in Italy, something almost inexplainable for a factory with an office building and a test track on the side, receiving thousands of spontaneous job applications every month. Kings, princes, presidents, Hollywood stars and rock gods, such as Eric Claption, continue to knock on Maranello’s door. Mr. Slowhand even has a one-of-a-kind model with his name, the SP12 EC, which cost something in the region of $4 million. Everything changes, but some things still say the same. The distinctive values of a Ferrari and Enzo’s passion for his cars and for racing are passed down from parents to children, as something almost sacred that is absolutely necessary to preserve. Over time, the Ferrari brand broke away from the limits of the auto spectrum and became a part of a unique collective imagination that is impossible to replicate. And it’s not like many haven’t tried or continue to try. Enzo Ferrari marked the history of Italy and the European resurgence post-war. His name became larger than the man, larger than life, and the brand he founded became an icon that is the symbol and pride of a country that values beauty, romance and the pleasure of being alive like no other. Enzo Ferrari did nothing more than mix these three ingredients and add four wheels. Grazie Mille, Commendatore. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 35

36 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential AUTO

Ju n i o r su i t e Junior suite 全新的奔驰 A 级（第四代）已经横空出世，它无疑将会征服车迷的心。奔驰再次击中目标 The new A-Class has come, seen and will no doubt conquer. Mercedes has hit the nail on the head once again 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

级是21世纪最重要的奔驰车型。这确实很奇怪，因为在过去的18年里，三叉戟奔驰已经推出许多惊艳车型，包括 CLK黑色系列、 SLS AMG以及已出三代的标杆车型S级。所有这些车型都让奔驰作为梦幻汽车制造商的创意激情继续燃烧，但是没有一款能有 A 级的影响力，在 20 世纪末助力品牌针对越来越年轻的市场受众更新形象。然而，如果在 6 年前从第二代换代第三代时奔驰没有彻底改变 A 级车型的概念，并将其完全调适为市场所需求的类型——即传统的紧凑型家庭用车，但却在设计中打破传统——那么在本文第一段中所作的陈述将永远不会成真。这次更新取得了前所未有的全球性成功，使得奔驰成为全球销售的高端车市场的无可

he A-Class is the most important Mercedes of the 21st century. Which is strange indeed, because in the last 18 years, the three-pointed star make has launched models as marvellous as the CLK Black Series, the SLS AMG and three generations of the standardbearer S-Class. All of them kept the Mercedes flame burning as a manufacturer of dream cars, but none had the impact of the A-Class in the renewal of the brand’s image for an increasingly younger market that has different desires and aspirations to Mercedes’ typical client at the end of the 20th century. However, the statement made in the first paragraph would never be true if the brand hadn’t completely changed the concept of what

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 37

争议的领头羊：2018 年，奔驰品牌每分钟售出超过 4 辆汽车。第三代 A 级的重要性无疑给负责更新换代的团队带来了额外的挑战：如何保持概念不变，但将之现代化，以引起已经购买奔驰车的客户的兴趣以及那些尚未实现飞跃的人的购买欲？实际上，即使困难重重，奔驰公司也将问题迎刃而解，他们作出了两个在财政上正确的决定：第一，改进设计而非完全推翻重设；第二，完全改变内饰而非是仅仅作出改进。结果呢？全新 A 级比以往任何时候都更加美艳，并且体现了在奔驰品牌目录中首次亮相的一系列技术解决方案，而且在车载信息娱乐功能的一些参数上以及与乘客互动方面，第四代 A 级甚至胜于 S 级。《精华》杂志测试了入门级汽油发动机车型，该车型征服了 180d 柴油车市场的一个重要板块，仍然是在葡萄牙受追捧的星级车型。 A200 搭载 1.3 升四缸发动机，最大功率为 163 38 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

an A-Class is from the second to the third generation six years ago, adapting it exactly to what the market was looking for: a traditional compact family car, but which broke with tradition within the make. This renewal came with a global success without precedence, making Mercedes the uncontested leader of global sales in the premium segment: in 2018, the brand sells more than four cars per minute. The importance of the third-generation A no doubt created an added obstacle for the team responsible for the replacement: how to maintain the concept unchanged, but modernise it to rouse the interest not only of clients that had already bought into the brand, but also of those who hadn’t yet made the leap? In reality, if it was difficult then Mercedes made it look easy, with two decisions that were right on the money: first, evolve the design instead of changing it completely; second,

completely change the interior instead of just evolving it. Result: the new A-Class is more beautiful than ever before and presents technological solutions that premiered in the brand’s catalogue, even placing it above the S-Class in some parameters of infotainment functionalities and interaction with the passengers. Essential Lisboa tested the entry-range petrol model, which is conquering a significant slice of the market over the 180d diesel, still the star here in Portugal. With 163 horse power extracted from a small 1.3-litre 4-cylinder, the A200 offers all the performance that you could ever need for a rational usage, with the bonus of allowing extremely modest consumption (around 6 litres) and a smoothness and comfort of use with which a diesel car can only dream. The 7-speed automatic transmission helps towards a driving experience in good Mercedes tradition: refined, relaxed and guided by the

Essential AUTO

马力，具备合理使用所需的所有性能，并可实现极其适度的耗油量（约 6 升）以及平稳性和舒适性。这些都是柴油车可梦不可求的。 7 速自动变速箱有助于打造良好的奔驰传统驾驶体验：精致，放松，并让人感受到始终如一的一流品质，正是品质使奔驰品牌自成立以来一直令人信服。车厢内的革命是绝对的：空间更大，设计更符合人体工程学，配备更多可用技术。全新的多媒体交互系统 MBUX（Mercedes-Benz User Experience），简直太棒了，新的语音、导航和媒体功能，以及其他许多功能，显示在 7 及 10.25 英寸双屏上，使用上一代图像显示的竞争对手一定无地自容，这甚至足够说服发过誓永不买奔驰车的客户立马改变主意。驾驶体验是无以复加的，但用车的整体体验更佳。一众奔驰的德国工程师实现了一个小小的奇迹：对于乘客而言，新款 A 级就像是一辆小型 S 级。除了非凡的车载信息娱乐系统外，用料和装配都是奔驰星级水平，整个车内环境都无与伦比。新的 A 级将在各个层面取得应有的巨大成功。待时机成熟时，它是为您而设的梦幻之车。 쐽

impression of quality that has lent credibility to the brand since its inception. The revolution in the cabin is absolute, with more space, more ergonomy and much more available technology. The Mercedes MBUX – Mercedes Benz User Experience – is simply fantastic, with new voice, navigation and media functionalities, among many others, displayed on two screens measuring 7 and 10.25 inches, with last-generation graphics that put the competition to shame and are enough to convince even the client that swore they would never buy a Benz to instantly change their mind. The driving experience is of the highest level, but the use of the car as a whole is even better. The German engineers have achieved a small miracle: for passengers, the new A-Class seems like a smaller S-Class. Besides the extraordinary infotainment, the materials and the assembly are worthy of the Mercedes star and the whole interior environment is superb. The new A-Class will be the resounding success it deserves to be at every level. It’s the right car for the right people at the right time. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 39

Essential MUSEUM

苏格兰首间设计博物馆－邓迪 V&A 博物馆－揭幕 The V&A Dundee is Scotland’s first design museum 40 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

该馆是 V&A 博物馆首间伦敦以外的分馆，设于苏格兰第四大城市邓迪 The V&A Dundee - the first V&A outside of London - has been unveiled in Scotland’s fourth largest city 文/by EDWINA LIU

邓

迪 V&A 博物馆是苏格兰首间设计博物馆，耗资九千万欧元，设有一个永久性苏格兰设计展区和一个临时展览空间。设计展区旨在回顾苏格兰六百多年来的设计历史。邓迪 V&A 揭幕之时，博物馆馆长菲利普‧隆（Philip Long）and 祖安‧诺曼（Joanna Norman）和撰写的《苏格兰的设计故事》 (The Story of Scottish Design)一书也同时出版，肯定了苏格兰前后逾五千年的设计历史。博物馆以维多利女王和丈夫阿尔伯特王子的名字的首字母命名。伦敦 V&A 博物馆馆长特里斯坦 ‧亨特（Tristram Hunt）指出，博物馆与女王和王夫有着重要的历史联系 ——他们曾在苏格兰的巴尔莫勒尔高地买了一幢城堡，而女王热爱苏格兰。她与丈夫早期到访高地，访问过邓迪，当时是 1844 年。而博物馆为何没有呈现苏格兰完整的设计历史，就要追溯到十九世纪发生的这些事情。

KENGO KUMA

rumpeted as Scotland’s first design museum, the €90 million building houses a permanent new Scottish Design Gallery and a space for temporary exhibitions. The aim of the new gallery is to trace the history of Scottish design over the past 600 years and coincides with the publication of the book ‘The Story of Scottish Design’ written by Philip Long and Joanna Norman which acknowledges over 5,000 years of Scottish design history. The V&A’s London director Tristram Hunt also points out the museum’s important historical connection to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert - after whom the V&A is named — thanks to the queen’s love of Scotland. The couple bought a Highland castle at Balmoral. In 1844 the queen and consort paid a royal visit to Dundee during one of their early trips to 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 41

邓迪 V&A 博物馆是 V&A 博物馆首间伦敦以外的分馆，由备受肯定的日本建筑师隈研吾设计，室内光线充足。隈研吾称，他的设计灵感来自苏格兰东北海岸边的悬崖。预制改造的石板水平地围绕弯曲的混凝土外墙悬挂，包裹着场馆，营造出悬崖的效果。当中使用了 2,466 块铸石板，最长的有四米，最重的有 3,000 公斤。博物馆建筑延伸到泰河 (Tay River)上方，看上去像个船头，令人想起邓迪市的造船传统。邓迪 V&A 博物馆馆长菲利普 ‧隆认为，不是 V&A 博物馆选择了邓迪市，而是邓迪市选择了 V&A 博物馆：“当中没有竞争，没有投标，也没有入围的程序，做这个决定所考虑的因素比这些程序自然得多。” 鉴于 V&A 博物馆与邓迪大学邓肯约旦斯通艺术设计学院的联系，博物馆与邓迪大学关系密切。在邓迪开展为期三十年的海滨发展计划的时候，V&A 博物馆正想方设法在英国各地拓展业务网络。人们就拿西班牙毕尔巴鄂的古根海姆博物馆来作比较，这也是难以避免的。而《孤独星球》(Lonely Planet)旅行指南则将邓迪评为今夏热门的欧洲旅游目的地之一。邓迪 V&A 博物馆的展厅中央立着宏伟的查尔斯 ·雷尼 ·马金托什（Charles Rennie Mackintosh）的“橡树屋”，那是邓迪 V&A 博物馆与格拉斯哥博物馆和邓迪市政局合作，对其精心修复、保存和重建后的结果。“橡树屋” 约五十年前遭拆卸，如今访客得以再次目睹马金托什设计的建筑，领略其非凡的建筑才华。 42 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

the Highlands and it is in the 19th century that the reasons can be found as to why the museum itself has opted to not provide a full history of Scottish design. The building itself has light-filled interiors designed by the acclaimed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and is the first V&A affiliate outside of the English capital. The architect says he was inspired by the cliffs on Scotland’s north-eastern coastline. The effect was achieved by cladding the building in lines of pre-cast reconstituted stone panels that run horizontally around the curving concrete walls. The 2,466 stone panels, which were made in moulds, weigh up to 3,000 kg each and span up to 4 m. The museum was built out

onto the River Tay, with a “prow” jutting over the water like a boat, recalling the shipbuilding heritage of the city. Philip Long, the director of the V&A Dundee, says the city chose the V&A, and not the other way around. “There was no competition, bidding process or shortlist,” he says. “The process that led to the decision was much more organic than that.” The V&A already had a close relationship with the University of Dundee because of the Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design with which it is linked. Dundee was embarking on a major 30-year development of its waterfront and the V&A was looking for ways to connect across to the UK. It has inevitably drawn comparisons to the Guggenheim in Bilbao and it prompted Lonely Planet to make Dundee one of its top European destinations to visit this summer. At the centre of the galleries stands the magnificent Charles Rennie Mackintosh Oak Room meticulously restored, conserved and reconstructed through a partnership between the V&A Dundee, Glasgow Museums and Dundee City Council. Visitors to the museum will be able to once again experience Mackintosh’s extraordinary talent in designing this room, lost to view for nearly 50 years. The museum’s first international exhibition is ‘Ocean Liners: Speed and Style’ organised by

Essential MUSEUM

博物馆的首个国际展览“远洋邮轮：速度与风格 ”由 V&A 博物馆和位于马萨诸塞州塞勒姆市的皮博迪埃塞克斯博物馆合办，首次探讨远洋邮轮在国际上于设计和文化方面的影响。博物馆开放以来，已有十多万人士参观，预计首年的访客数字会达到五十万。但邓迪市商户反应冷淡，指因博物馆未能带动生意而感到失望。不过，邓迪市政局态度乐观，认为城市的滨海复兴计划以及作为计划一部分的邓迪 V&A 博物馆会带动增长。邓迪遗产信托（Dundee Heritage Trust）执行董事保罗 ·詹宁斯说：”V&A 博物馆开放以来，我们真的看到明显的效果。”邓迪市政局辖下城市发展委员会的召集人 Lynne Short 呼吁商户”耐心等待，善用期间出现的新机遇。” 英国乐队 Primal Scream 于博物馆开馆当晚，在馆旁举办的 3D Festival 中献演，庆祝博物馆正式开幕。唱作歌手 Lewis Capaldi 和 Tallia Storm，以及邓迪市的艺人 Be Charlotte 也在表演之列。开幕当日，大概有二千名本地儿童和社群代表参观，苏格兰首席部长妮可拉 •斯特金（Nicola Sturgeon）也有到访，她形容博物馆为 ”世界级 ”博物馆，参观后感到 ”震憾 ”。”邓迪市因为博物馆而进入了世界文化版图，全球各地的人都会来这里看 V&A 博物馆。”她说道。苏格兰设计展区位于博物馆的上层，共展出 300 件物品，包括一本十五世纪载有说明的手稿书和一条詹姆斯党的嘉德带 (Jacobite garter)。其它展品有家俱、纺织品、时装、建筑、工程及数码设计产品。 V&A 博物馆的总馆位于伦敦南肯辛顿，至今有 150 年的历史，是世界最大的装饰艺术和设计博物馆。 쐽

the V&A and the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem Massachusetts and the first to explore the design and cultural impact of the ocean liner on an international scale. Since opening, over 100,000 visitors have passed through the new museum’s doors and is expected to attract 500,000 visitors in its first year. Local businesses in Dundee, however and less than impressed and say they have been

disappointed by its effect to drum up trade. Nevertheless, the city council says it is optimistic about a growing momentum brought about as a result of the new museum and the overall city’s waterfront regeneration project of which it forms part. Paul Jennings, executive director of the Dundee Heritage Trust says, “We really are seeing a marked effect since the V&A opened” while Lynne Short, Dundee City Council’s City development convener has urged business to “remain patient and capitalise on new opportunities as they arise.” The UK band Primal Scream headlined the 3D Festival by the museum on its opening night to officially mark its launch. The band was joined on the bill by singer-songwriters Lewis Capaldi and Tallia Storm and Dundee’s own Be Charlotte. About 2000 local children and community group representatives visited the museum on the opening day as well as Scotland’s First Minister Nicola Sturgeon who described the museum as “world class” and said she was “overawed” after touring it. “This museum puts Dundee on the cultural map of the world and people will come from all over the world to see the V&A here” she added. V&A Dundee’s Scottish Design Galleries’ 300 objects include a 15th Century book of illuminated manuscripts and a Jacobite garter. The galleries also include furniture, textiles, fashion, architecture, engineering and digital design and are based on the upper floor or the museum. The original V&A has stood in South Kensington for more than 150 years and is the world’s largest museum of decorative arts and design. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 43

舒适地带 Comfort Zone

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY JOÃO TAÍNHA 造型及助理 STYLING XANA GUERRA FOR WWW.PULPFASHION.PT, ASSISTED BY CARLA HONORATO 化妆 MAKE-UP MIGUEL STAPLETON 发型 HAIR RITA VASCONCELLOS FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE 模特 MODELS JAYMES TRIGLONE (CENTRAL MODELS) DIANA NETO (CENTRAL MODELS)

Jaymes 大衣 Overcoat: De Petrillo 西装 Suit: Officine Générale 衬衫 Shirt: Rosa & Teixeira 皮鞋 Shoes: COS 眼镜 Glasses: Zeiss 领带 Tie: Hugo Boss 围巾 Scarf: Loro Piana 公文包 Briefcase: 杰尼亚 Zegna

Diana 风衣 Trench coat: 巴宝莉 Burberry 衬衫和牛仔裤 Shirt and jeans: 古琦 Gucci 靴子 Boots: Isabel Marant

Jaymes 马球衫 Polo: Brunello Cucinelli Diana 运动套装 Tracksuit: 丝黛拉·麦卡妮 Stella McCartney 软皮鞋 Moccasins: 托德斯 Tod’s

Jaymes 毛衣 Cardigan: Morgano 衬衫 T-shirt: 古琦 Gucci 长裤 Trousers: PT0 眼镜 Glasses: Olivier Diana 连衣裙 Dress: Malene Birger

外套 Blazer: De Petrillo 套头衫 Jumper: Original Vintage Style 长裤 Trousers: Briglia 鞋履 Shoes: Luís Onofre 背包 Backpack: 路易威登 Louis Vuitton

外套 Blazer: Boglioli 高领毛衣 Turtleneck: Original Vintage Style

套头衫、运动裤 Jumper and trousers: 巴尔曼 Balmain

外套 Blazer: De Petrillo 高领毛衣 Turtleneck: Original Vintage Style 眼镜 Glasses: 圣罗兰 Yves Saint Laurent 长裤、皮鞋 Trousers and shoes: 汤米·希尔费格 Tommy Hilfiger 袜子 Stocks: Westmister

Essential PROJECT

玩转跨界 Isn’t it genius? 近

年时尚界猛刮跨界风，而著名羽绒服品牌盟可睐（Moncler）的 Moncler Genius 系列则傲视同群，无与伦比。品牌请来时尚界作品丰富的八位顶级大师，其中包括华伦天奴创意总监皮耶帕奥罗· 皮茨奥利、西蒙娜·罗莎、男装大师克雷格· 格林等，每位设计师会负责一个系列，分别是造型师卡尔 ·坦佩勒的 Moncler 1952，珊卓 ·曼德里诺的 Moncler Grenoble， Simone Rocha 同名系列，二宫启的 Noir（顾名思义，即黑色），日本街头风教父藤原浩将带来 Moncler Fragment，而品牌的艺术总监法兰切斯科 ·拉格兹则会带来 Moncler Palm Angels 系列，这八个胶囊系列，分别是每一位设计师独特审美的体现。自今年 2 月 20 日推出第一个系列以来， Moncler 于余下的七个月，每月推出一个系列。

Genius 驾到！

10 月中， Moncler 宣布在澳门银河独家推出 Moncler Genius 快闪限定店， Moncler Palm Angels 系列首次亮相澳门。意为 “棕榈天使 ”的 Palm Angels 是一个知名街头风品牌，混合洛杉矶滑板潮流与意大利气质，品牌主理人是同时兼任 Moncler 艺术总监的意大利设计师法兰切斯科 ·拉格兹，他专程前来澳门参与了 Moncler Palm Angels 澳门首发。这位才华横溢的设计师 “出道 ”之初其实是一位摄影师，而他的品牌 Palm Angels 则缘起一本介绍洛杉矶滑板文化的影集。 “我喜欢时尚，这也是我学习时尚传讯专业的原因，当时我也想涉足时尚摄影领域，”拉格兹说道。在 Moncler 公关部的工作帮助年轻的拉格兹进入了他梦寐以求的时尚世界。 56 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

八位才华横溢的设计师无间合作，又会擦出怎样的火花？ What’s the chemistry like when eight genius designers co-operate? 文/by EDWINA LIU

oncler Genius is an unparalleled project in the fashion industry in spite of the trend of crossover blooming in recent years. The brand tapped eight of the fashion industry’s most prolific and exceptional designers - including, among others, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, and menswear maestro Craig Green, stylist Karl Templer who will curate Moncler 1952, Sandro Mandrino for Moncler Grenoble, Simone Rocha, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Japanese streetwear godfather Hiroshi Fujiwara for Moncler Fragment, and the brand’s artistic director Francesco Ragazzi for Moncler Palm Angels - to each create a capsule collection reflecting their distinct aesthetic. Since the launch of the first collection was presented in Milan on February 20, the rest of the collections have been launched as single monthly projects.

GENIUS IN TOWN! In mid-October, Moncler announced the launch of its exclusive Moncler Genius Galaxy Macau Pop-Up in Macau, debuting the first-inMacau launch of Moncler Palm Angels. Palm Angels is a popular streetwear brand that mixes skate vibes from Los Angeles with Italian flair. Italian born designer Francesco Ragazzi, who is also the artistic director of Moncler, visited Macau for the launch event. This talented designer started his career as a photographer, while his own brand of Palm Angels was started with a photo book depicting LA skate culture. “I love fashion; that’s why I studied fashion communication. I also want to be in fashion photography,” says Ragazzi.

Essential PROJECT

他坦承：“（公关）不是我的热情所在，我在那个部门仅工作了三个月。”但拉格兹并没有离开 Moncler 品牌，反而在过去十年里逐步晋升至艺术总监，其后再创立自己的品牌 Palm Angels。现在，他仍是 Moncler 的艺术总监。 “我希望以自己的独特方式表达自我，” 他说道，“美国文化对我而言十分重要，我希望展示我对这个文化的看法，这本影集也由此诞生。” 此外，说唱文化也令拉格兹着迷，现在他既是著名说唱歌手 Pharrell William 和 A$AP Rocky 的歌迷，也是二人的朋友。 “说唱吸引了亚洲大量音乐消费者，华伦天奴等知名时装屋也从说唱音乐中汲取灵感。对大品牌而言，在设计系列中融合说唱或街头文化是大势所趋。但对我而言，这不是跟随潮流，这是我一直以来的事业。” 他为 Moncler Genius 计划创作的最新系列 Moncler Palm Angels 主打运动风，包括教练夹克、拉链连帽衫、运动裤、健身包以及羽绒背心等，全部都既时尚，又实用。 “我希望为品牌吸引年轻消费者和说唱爱好者”，拉格兹说道，“我用了我在品牌中最爱的黑色和红色。这个系列的设计并不奇怪，你现在买了就可以立即穿上。” 拉格兹最喜爱的作品是一件含有纯正滑板亚文化元素的红黑羽绒夹克。“我知道对澳门买家来说，穿这件衣服可能太热了，但我真的非常喜欢这款，”他笑道。 쐽

The job in Moncler’s PR department helped young Ragazzi step into the world he eagerly wants to get involved in. “It was not the thing I really liked and I only worked in that department for three months,” he confides, but he never left the brand and in the past decade he graduated to art director of the brand, before setting up his own brand Palm Angels. Now he is still the artistic director of Moncler.

“I want to express myself in my own way,” he says. “For me, American culture is very important. I wanted to show my prospective of the culture so I made the photo book.” The designer is also fascinated by hip-hop culture, and already counts famous rapper Pharrell Williams and A$AP Rocky as friends and fans. “Hip-hop attracts a quite big part of music of consumers in Asia, and the big brands like Vanlentino also get inspiration from hip-hop music. For the big brands, it’s the trend to merge hip-hop or street culture into their collection. For me, it’s not a trend. That’s what I always do.” In the he latest instalment to release from the Moncler Genius initiative Moncler Palm Angels showcases a sporty collection which includes coach jackets, zip-up hoodies, sweatpants, gym bags and down-filled puffer vests - all practical yet fashionable. “I want to bring younger consumers and hip-hop lovers to the brand,” says Ragazzi. “I use black and red, which is my favourite colour of the brand. It’s not a crazy collection; you can buy and wear today.“ Ragazzi’ favourite piece is the black and red down jacket which he merges with the authentic skater subculture element: “I know it might be too hot for Macau consumers, but I love it very much!” he laughs 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 59

城市迷离夜ཽ Night on the town

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 造型及助理 STYLING SUSANA MARQUES PINTO FOR WWW.PULPFASHION.PT, ASSISTED BY BEATRIZ CLEMENTE 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DEN BERG (WWW.SKINLIFE.PT) 发型 HAIR HELENA VAZ PEREIRA FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE ASSISTED BY RITA VASCONCELLOS 模特 MODEL MARI HANSEN (L’AGENCE)

马甲 Vest: 制作人私服 production’s own 短裙 Skirt: 奥斯曼 Osman 胸针 Brooch: Isabel Lopes da Silva 手镯 Bracelet: Luísa Rosas 靴子 Boots: 芮妮·乔薇拉 René Caovilla

衬衫 Blouse: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 短裙 Skirt: Dries Van Noten 耳环 Earrings: Du Chic à Vendre 腕表 Watch: 迪奥 Dior 鞋 Shoes: 汤姆·福特 Tom Ford

外套 Blazer: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 长裤 Trousers: Miguel Vieira 胸针 Brooch: David Rosas 项链 Necklace: Isabel Lopes da Silva 戒指 Ring: Machado Joalheiro

外套 Jacket: Rizal 耳环 Earrings: Machado Joalheiro 戒指 Rings: Isabel Lopes da Silva

连衣裙 Dress: Oscar de la Renta 耳环、手镯、戒指 Earrings, bracelet

and ring: Isabel Lopes da Silva

连衣裙 Dress: 圣罗兰 Saint Laurent 耳环、手镯 Earrings and bracelets：

Isabel Lopes da Silva 鞋 Shoes: 汤姆·福特 Tom Ford

连衣裙 Dress: 纪梵希 Givenchy 耳环、手镯 Earrings and bracelet: Machado Joalheiro

外套 Jacket: Rizal 连衣裙 Dress: Pinko 耳环 Earrings: Machado Joalheiro 戒指 Rings: Isabel Lopes da Silva 鞋 Shoes: Alexandre Birman

外套 Blazer: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 连衣裙 Dress: 古琦 Gucci 耳环、戒指 Earrings and ring: Machado Joalheiro 戒指 Ring: David Rosas

Essential TRENDS

时装里的对立与碰撞 Sartorial antithesis 传统与概念化；长与短；生物材料对碰动物材料到对抗合成材料；紧身和宽松。下文是新一季的时装创意 Conventional versus conceptual; short versus long; biological versus animal versus synthetic; tight versus baggy. These are some of the creative suggestions that mark the upcoming season 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

各

Valentino

74 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

大品牌都会透过一个主题向顾客展示自己的全新系列： LV 路易威登坐着 21 世纪的宇宙飞船遨游太空； Balenciaga 巴黎世家返回 3D 技术领域； Armani 阿玛尼聚焦建设性的精致材料；Christian Dior 迪奥展现的则是神秘之美； Fendi 芬迪迷走于环保虚幻中；Valentino 华伦天奴则回到古代（希腊神话）。我们还可以一一描述启发了每位设计师、每个品牌的灵感，可事实是，除了美丽和优雅外，时尚界还希望为顾客提供舒适的时装。舒适的大衣款式多种多样，仿佛都是从时光机器中出来的一样。有些服装材料是天然材质，如羊毛和纯棉；有些则采用混合了天然材料的科技材料；还有一些还没有加入保护生态的行列，依旧在展示由动物材料制成的美轮美奂的作品（如意大利品牌芬迪）。平心而论，芬迪系列中有些作品采用了能够以假乱真的人工材料制成，许多国际知名品牌，无论是高定品牌还是成衣品牌也开始这么做了。过去几年，人们对全球气候变化的关注也成为了某些时装系列着重体现的焦点，恰恰

ach brand thinks of a theme to present its collection to the end consumer: Louis Vuitton travelled through space in a 21stcentury spaceship; Balenciaga retreated into 3D technology; Armani into constructive delicateness; Christian Dior into the beauty of the occult; Fendi into environmental make-believe; and Valentino into Classic Antiquity (Greek mythology). We could keep describing what inspired each designer, each label, but the truth is that, besides providing beauty and elegance, fashion wants to provide comfort. Cosy coats emerge in various versions, looking more like they have come out of a time machine. Some are made from natural clothing materials, such as wool and cotton, others from technological materials that blend with natural, and some that are yet to join the ecologically correct approach and continue to present stunning pieces made from animal-based materials (such as the Italian label Fendi). In fairness, some of the pieces of Fendi’s collection are made from artificial materials that look real, the path chosen by many internationally renowned brands, whether it is haute couture or ready-to-wear. The concern with the climate change happening across the world has been a focus point in certain collections in the last few years, demonstrating the attention that the largest fashion houses are paying to hot topics on the international political agenda. One of those

Alexander McQueen

Chanel

Fendi

Louis Vuitton

Michael Kors

Balenciaga

Essential TRENDS

表明著名时装品牌也对国际政治议程上的热门话题颇多关注。巴黎世家就是其中之一，走在 T 台上的模特，身着看似层层叠叠的外套。“这个系列旨在发扬美和道德伦理；我永远不会将品牌的 DNA 与我想要推动的理念区分开来，”担任品牌创意总监两年有余的 Demna Gvasalia 表示。通过服装的层次 ——上衣/工装裤/大衣——他希望展示气候是如何“不确定和没有规律”。另一方面，美国式的高雅只有一个代表品牌：拉夫·劳伦。品牌每个系列都是为了把美丽发挥到极致，同时又铭记品牌和创始人的文化之根，证明美丽与优雅可以并存，能在任何风格的搭配中脱颖而出，即使是最粗犷的造型，如牛仔/女牛仔装。当然，谈到优雅和美丽，最杰出的品牌当属华伦天奴：无论是服装结构还是创意都出类拔萃，把一件很平凡的衣服打造了成本季的 “it”单品。其中一个例子就是蓝色斗篷，斗篷灵感来自西班牙斗篷，褶边采用了主体的相同面料，这是 70 年代中期和 80 年代的流行款式。无论是短（夹克，短外套）还是长（外套或大衣），都该拥有各自的风格，以便在出现审美真空的当今社会中脱颖而出。对品质的需求和渴望已经渐渐取代了华而不实的流行趋势。越来越多裁缝店和裁缝师出现，正是这一现象的明证。尽管过去多是男性从事裁缝工作，当今还是有不少女性也开始投身这一领域。 쐽

Ralph Lauren

Dior

brands is Balenciaga, whose models walked down the runway swamped with coats that look like multi-layers. “This is a collection that develops the aesthetic and the ethical; I could never separate the brand’s DNA from the ideals I want to develop,” said Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of the fashion house for little over two years. The layering of the pieces – coats/overalls/parkas – hopes to show how the climate is “uncertain and irregular”. On the other end of the spectrum, American elegance has one name: Ralph Lauren. Each collection is created to enhance beauty, but without forgetting the cultural roots of the brand and of its founder, proving that beauty and elegance walk side by side and can stand out in any style, even in the most rustic looks, such as the cowboy/cowgirl.

Of course, when talking about elegance and beauty, the standout name is Valentino. The constructive and creative work are synchronised, making an apparently mundane piece the season’s ‘it’ piece. One of those examples is the blue cape, outlined by a frill in the same fabric, inspired by the Spanish capes, a piece that was the order of the day in the mid-‘70s and ‘80s. Be it short (jacket, short coat) or long (coats or overcoats), the style should be well instilled so as to stand out from the crowd in the aesthetic vacuum that dominates today’s society. The need and desire to value quality over a trend without substance has returned. That phenomenon can be seen through the return of tailoring and tailors, a technique that women are signing up to regardless of it being traditionally associated to the men’s segment. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 77

Essential BEAUTY

金色魅惑节日季即将来临，参加派对当然少不了华丽妆容的加持！圣罗兰推出 2018 耶诞降临日金色魅惑特别版礼盒，为您带来 24 个美丽惊喜。从圣诞前 24 日起，您每日都可以收到一件圣罗兰热卖单品。该系列玩转金／黑之间的张力，为全脸点缀光彩，其中包括两件正装单品——明彩笔 2 号明亮象牙色调与 La Laque Couture 幻魅指甲油 8 号色，另外还有 19 款美妆小样与三件美妆配件。将礼盒收入囊中，随心挥洒金属亮彩，投身节日派对热浪！

Golden attraction The holiday season is approaching, so a glamour makeup is a must for the parties! YSL prepares 24 surprises for you with its 2018 Gold Attraction Edition Advent Calendar. Every day you can count down the date to Christmas and receive one best-selling YSL product. The collection plays on the tension between black and gold, and brings radiance to the whole face. Two full size star products - Touche Éclat Pen #2 Luminous Ivory and La Laque Couture Nail Polish #8 - plus 19 miniatures and three beauty accessories complete the Advent Calendar. Let the fusion of metallic sparkle all over - and let’s get this party started!

狂野优雅节日气氛延续，而动物花纹已替代了花卉图案成为这个季节的最热印花。作为时尚狂热分子的您，派对装扮又怎可少了豹纹元素呢？为了庆祝节日季，奥尔滨特别推出限量版极致欢颜套盒（Elégance St. Auta Coffret）。这个特别的套盒包裹着美丽的棕色与粉色豹纹印花，既狂野又优雅。奥尔滨极致欢颜系列的经典产品均囊括其中，包括魅力晶盈四射眼影（Nouvelle Eyes）109 号色、102 号嫩红色以及 100 号羽翼面纱色，当然少不了打造完美眼妆必备的 Full Extension Mascara BK10 Mini 迷你睫毛膏。这个美丽的套盒还带有一个限量版的东方风格小袋子，袋上的金色手环让这份节日惊喜更加完美。

Wild yet Elegant Meanwhile, animal prints have replaced floral as the print du jour this season. As a fashionista, your party look can’t be completed without leopard elements. In celebration of the holidays, Albion releases limited coffret gift set Elégance St. Auta Coffret. This special coffret is packaged in beautiful brown and pink leopard print, which is wild yet elegant. All signature items of Albion Elégance - such as the limited shade of Nouvelle Eyes 109, Freshscent Rouge 102 and Featherl Veil 100, as well as the Full Extension Mascara BK10 Mini - are mandatory for your perfect eye makeup. This wonderful coffret is adorned with a limited Oriental Pouch, which has a gold-tone bracelet handle to complete your holiday surprise!

78 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BEAUTY

如美钻闪耀闪亮，是 2018 美妆潮流关键元素。点亮您的妆容，在节日季派对大放异彩，就是当季头等要务。玫珂菲（Make Up For Ever）全新推出多功能闪粉，只需这样一件强大单品，即可轻松创作一个艳“光“四射的妆容。星彩闪粉（Star Powder）含 99.9%珍珠母贝粉，为双眼、双颊与身体带来闪耀亮泽。该系列包括 9 种色调，热门三色包括 101 号白色、102 号白金色和 111 号香槟色。妆前记得先用焕颜修容妆前乳 STEP1 为肌肤打底，最后一步则不要忘了喷上保湿定妆喷雾，打造完美持久闪亮美颜。

Shine like a diamond Sparkling is the key element of 2018’s beauty trend. To celebrate the holiday season, lighting up your makeup look and shining at the party is a priority. With just one product - Make up For Ever, the new multi-purpose sparkling powder - you can easily create a full glitter makeup look. Star Powder comprises 99.9% of mother-of-pearl to lend an outstanding brilliance to your eyes, cheeks and body. The collection comprises nine shades, with the hottest 101 white, 102 white gold and 111 champagne. To have a long-lasting glittery look, apply Step 1 Eye & Lip and the Mist & Fix spray for that finishing touch.

舒适假日冬日就是热烈派对的天下。但在您忙于享受节日气氛之时，您的肌肤也面临挑战。当忙碌的日程开始对肌肤造成压力，您就需要在护肤流程中融入增强肌肤抵御能力的产品，让您光彩照人地迎来各种庆祝活动。馥蕾诗（Fresh）为此打造的一系列礼物套装展现出品牌对旅行的热爱，更将这种热情融入了每件产品之中。每款套装的设计都配以护照印章插画，而旅行箱形状的套装就包括了旅行主题贴纸和一张地图。其中脸部护肤产品最为特别，环球旅行面膜系列（Mask Around the World）包括了红糖脸部磨砂、红茶抗皱紧致修护面膜和玫瑰润泽保湿舒缓面膜；而玫瑰假日：润泽花瓣肌套装（Rose Retreat: Petal-Soft Skin）就包括了从爽肤水到润色唇膏等玫瑰系列的全部明星产品。喜爱红茶系列的粉丝们也无需担心，红茶胜地套装（Destination Black Tea）内含四款热卖单品，让肌肤紧致健康，同时改善弹性和质感。

Enjoy a fresh holiday ‘Tis the season for all exciting parties. But while you are busy enjoying the holiday your skin is facing a bigger challenge. When the hustle and bustle of the season begins to take its toll you need to incorporate some skincare products that can give you radiant skin for all of the festivities you have in store. Fresh creates gift sets that give you a glimpse into their love for travel and how it is integrated into every product. Each set is designed with passport stamp illustrations, while the suitcase-shaped sets include travel-themed stickers and a map. Especially for face skincare, there is Mask Around the World, comprising Sugar Face Polish, Black Tea Instant Perfecting Mask and Rose Face mask, as well as Rose Retreat: Petal-Soft Skin comprises all start products of the Rose collection from toner to Tinted Lip Treatment. For Black Tea collection fans, there is a Destination Black Tea set that combines four best sellers to help you firm and strengthen your skin while improving bounce and density.

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 79

Essential BAZAAR

百搭系列

金色系列完美配搭体现新时代精神的 Chanel 香奈儿最新护肤系列“奢华精萃系列”，成为了品牌象征。2006 年，香奈儿首次从马达加斯加独有的五月梵尼兰中萃取能够活化肌肤、防抗衰老的植物精华，打造蕴含独特活性成分的系列产品。今年，又在法国的南阿尔卑斯山，发现了完美搭配五月梵尼兰的黄金麒麟草，取其精萃，制造出全新的 “奢华精萃精华液”。

圆框太阳镜献给女神，飞行员款式送给男神：我们说的是 D&G 杜嘉班纳“Gold Edition”奢华 K 金系列的两款新品。K 金系列提供两个样式和三种镜片颜色（白、粉、黄）， 18K 镀金镜架，质感细致优雅，符合客户期待。产品设计纯粹，贴近时下品味，其镜面镜片最为突出，并以黑色雅致的物料包装，配上与镜框颜色相衬的金卡和镜盒。

A golden collection Round sunglasses for her, aviatorstyle for him – these are the new stars of the special collection presented by Dolce&Gabbana. The Gold Collection combines two formats, three different shades (white, pink and yellow) and is plated in 18K gold. With the sophisticated touch that clients have come to expect from the brand, and a clean and contemporary design, these models stand out for their mirrored lenses. They also come in an elegant black packaging, with a metal card and case to match the colour of the frame. www.lacoste.com

The perfect match The new skincare line from Chanel that represents a new era: more than a name, Sublimage has become a symbol. With a unique composition of active ingredients, Chanel first extracted the magic of Vanilla Planifolia, a plant only found in Madagascar, in 2006, which improves skin’s vitality, preventing and correcting the effects of ageing. This year, this fantastic product found its other half in the southern French Alps: the Solidago flower, whose extract is the keystone of the new Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale. www.chanel.com

80 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

石材系列香薰蜡烛限量版在全新 2018 秋冬限量版系列中，比例时奢华香薰品牌 Baobab Collection 聚焦呈现全新匠人和他们手工吹制的玻璃技艺。典雅精致的 Stones 石材系列彰显全新的装饰风格：三款香薰蜡烛化身家居装饰品。在玻璃吹制的过程中将每款颜色慢慢吹入玻璃中，打造出一种不透光的透明材料，呈现出类似于大理石、青金石和玛瑙的效果。品牌邀请法国艺术家 Tiven 为三款香薰蜡烛玻璃器皿各画上一位不同的女性，象征着三“姐妹”。

Lacoste 法国鳄鱼的 L.12.12 皮革鞋履系列，配以招牌鳄鱼标志、柔顺高贵的意大利皮革和单色鞋面，以优雅的设计冲击变化多端的潮流风向，成为不朽的时尚象征。2018 年秋冬系列主打三种大小不同的包袋，有橙、棕、米、黑和卡其色任君选择，大至生活用品，小至日常必备均可一一收纳，适合当今兼收并蓄的生活方式。

Stones Limited Edition The Baobab Collection focuses on new artisans and their hand-blown glass skills in the new limitededition Autumn/Winter 2018 Collection. Elegant and sophisticated, the Stones collection reveals a new decorative style: the three fragranced candles become objects of decoration. Each colour is slowly introduced into the glass as it is being blown, to create an opaque and transparent material, similar to stones such as marble, lapis lazuli and agate. The brand invited French artist Tiven to paint a different women into each piece, representing the three “sisters”. www.baobabcollection.com

Every occasion Designed to challenge the whims of fashion and become a timeless icon, the L.12.12 Cuir collection, with Lacoste’s signature crocodile and the nobility and smoothness of Italian leather, opts for an elegant design and a monochrome finish. For the Autumn/Winter 2018 season, the French label focused on three different-sized bags. Whether the idea is to carry your entire life around or just keep the essentials to hand, in shades of orange, khaki, brown, beige or black, the bags were conceived to meet the needs of today’s eclectic everyday lifestyles. www.dolcegabbana.com

Essential BAZAAR

冒险精神这个月，《路易威登城市指南》会带来最新的旅游资讯，推介各类全新的旅游景址和目的地。自 1998 年创刊以来，指南一直精心推荐具有特色和个性的旅游景点，宣扬游牧精神，如今重点介绍曼谷、芝加哥、伊斯坦布尔、洛杉矶、马德里、迈亚密、里约热内卢、罗马、上海和威尼斯，由各行各业的独立撰稿人和嘉宾娓娓道来。今年有著名摄影师弗朗索瓦‧由季叶和奥乌卡•莱蕾、演员杰夫·高布伦和艺术家丁乙与我们分享游踪。

杰尼亚时装 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚最新的 2018 冬季时装，由亚历山德罗 ·萨托利担任艺术指导，构思及灵感均来自艺术家托马斯·费尔切。冬装采用传统线条，几何剪裁。羽绒服采用连帽羊毛外套的造型，针织衫可作内搭或作外衣穿，合衬的上衣和裤子取代了套装。可调整褶边的裤子和双结围巾般的领带也是系列的亮点。杰尼亚专有的皮革亦首次用于制作公事包和袋子。

万宝龙 M RED 系列 Montblanc 万宝龙加入对抗艾滋病的行列，将最新的（万宝龙 M） RED 系列钢笔的部分销售收益捐出，支援各类抗艾项目，帮助数以百万受到艾滋病影响的人士。钢笔由马克•纽森设计，以红色树脂为材料，其流线有机的造型体现设计师标志性的生物形态主义风格。系列产品有墨水笔、钢珠笔和原子笔，可配搭红色系的皮制记事本、手环和袖扣等配件。

Essential hand care Adventurous spirit The Louis Vuitton city guides are going to be updated this month to feature plenty of new addresses and destinations. Instilling a nomad spirit and proposing a selection that is both specialised and individual since 1998, the guides now feature the cities of Bangkok, Chicago, Istanbul, Los Angeles, Madrid, Miami, Rio de Janeiro, Roma, Shanghai and Venice. Each one of them is revealed by independent journalists and guests from all walks of life. This year, they include the photographers Françoise Huguier and Ouka Leele, actor Jeff Goldblum and artist Ding Yi. www.louisvuitton.com

Montblanc has joined the fight against HIV/AIDS with the launch of a new pen, with part of the proceeds going towards supporting programmes that help millions of people affected by the virus. Designed by Marc Newson, in red resin, it showcases the designer’s trademark biomorphic style, defined by fluid and pure organic forms. Available as a fountain pen, rollerball or ballpoint pen, the (Montblanc M) RED collection is accompanied by red accessories that include a leather notebook, a bracelet and cufflinks. www.montblanc.com

手部护理从基础做起瑞典顶级香氛品牌拜里朵（Byredo）为今秋推出了全新系列：轻柔清洁香水皂。简约却艳丽的包装让人过目难忘：每款香味都有自己的专属颜色。香水皂的成分包括甘油、乳木果油和棕榈油，适合所有肤质，为纤纤玉手奉上全新的清洁仪式。值得留意的是限量版礼盒 Rose Hand Care Gift Box 玫瑰手部护理礼盒，其内除了玫瑰香水皂外，还有一款保湿润肤乳。

Essential hand care Byredo, the Swedish brand, introduces a new collection this autumn: the gently cleansing perfumed soaps. Easily recognisable for its minimalist yet colourful packages – each scent has its own colour –, the products feature glycerine, shea butter and palm oil, which promise to treat all skin types and introduce a new cleansing ritual for the hands. As a limited edition, there is also the Rose Hand Care Gift Box which, besides the soap, also includes a moisturising lotion. www.byredo.com

Zegna Couture With the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori, and concept and inspiration created by the artist Thomas Flechtner, the new Winter Couture 2018 collection from Ermenegildo Zegna takes traditional lines and adds geometric cuts – the duvet takes the form of a wool anorak, knitwear doubles as outerwear and a suit is replaced by matching blousons and trousers. The whole collection is also defined by trousers that have adjustable hems and ties worn as double-knot scarves. Zegna’s exclusive leather is also present for the first time in briefcases and bags. www.zegna.pt

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 81

Essential DESIGN

路易威登创新技术滚轮拉杆箱 Louis Vuiton high-tech rolling Luggage Louis Vuiton 路易威登继续与澳大利亚设计师 Marc Newson 合作设计 Horizon 系列行李产品，第二期推出创新软壳行李箱系列 Louis Vuitton continues its partnership with the Australian designer Marc Newson with the second phase of the Horizon luggage collection that now features an innovative collection of soft-structure trolleys 文/by EDWINA LIU

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二期产品的行李包专为现代旅客而设，设计师说：“上一次推出以硬壳为特点的那个系列后，便想到第二个系列要有点弹性。这样的话，就需要发展新科技，改造科技。那必须是真正创新，有说服力的东西，这样进行第二期项目，才说得过去。总的来说，我这次想创作科技元素产品。结果，我在自己创造的其它项目中发现了一种可以使用的技术，它不太算是一种科技。” 其实，那是种高科技物料，是个有着网状矩阵式外壳的双面缇花包。这种外壳由一种弹性极强又非常耐用的热铸细丝制作，Horizon 系列的物料就是采用这种细丝 82 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

制作，然后加入 Newson 设计的这个著名法国品牌的缩写字母。这个密实的行李包在加入防水性能后，于高温下塑造成设计师构思的立体造型。产品的制作工艺也同样创新，利用超声技术完成口袋和拉链部分的剪裁，并运用热粘合系统，省去了约 95%本应需要缝纫的工序。如今要旅行基本上都会考虑行李包的重量和容量，设计师 Newson 对此仔细考量，务求做出尽量轻盈、有弹性、耐用的产品，而这个软壳行李箱的重量不能超过 2.9 公斤。软壳行李箱和 Newson 为路易威登设计的 Horizon 系列的其它产品一样，贴合箱包轮廓的可伸缩镀铝拉杆设于外侧，所以不

he creation of this second range of travel bags which was designed for the modern traveller is explained by the designer himself: “After launching the previous line which is characterised by its rigid structure came the idea of creating a second version with more flexible characteristics. For this, new technology needed to be developed and adapted. It had to be something truly innovative and convincing to justify moving forward with the second phase of the project. In principle, something technological. It ended up by not exactly being technology but rather a technique that I discovered from other projects that I had created.

Essential DESIGN

会出现一般挤压行李包，令其变形，以致空间减少的情况。系列行李包的另一个特点，就是各部分都经过精心设计，以收纳隐蔽于拉链位置的原创三位数字密码锁，加上静音设计的两个轮子，尽显设计师和品牌的匠心巧手。 Marc Newson 认为这个项目颠覆了传统，因为从没有人这样设计过行李包。他跟很多人一样，会经常坐飞机旅行，因此很清楚旅行箱包设计的贴心需求。这一系列的产品有三款长方形粗呢行李包，有较为张扬的鲜黄色和鲜橙色，也有稍为朴素的棕色和黑色供选择，新品将在 2019 年初于路易威登专卖店发售。 쐽

In actual fact, it is a high-tech material, a double-sided jacquard bag with a mesh matrix shell created from a technical heat-cast thread which is extremely elastic and durable and which was used to create the material that this range is made from, together with Newson’s take on the Paris designer’s famous monogram. This seamless bag, after receiving a waterrepellent treatment, was heat-molded so as to get the three-dimensional form envisioned by the designer. Continuing in the same innovative vein, the cuts for the pockets and zip closures were done by using ultra-sound while the stitching was reduced by around 95% thanks to the use of a heat adhesive system. And since weight and capacity are two fundamental factors when travelling today, these were scrutinised particularly carefully by Marc Newson who sought to reconcile the minimum weight with maximum elasticity and durability and for this the cabin bag could not weigh more than 2.9 kg. As was the case with the Horizon line which Newson also designed for Louis Vuitton, the

extendible anodised aluminium handles too were placed on the exterior part of the bag following the contour without causing those common and irritatingly invasive shapes that deform and take up the space inside. Another particular feature of this collection of travel bags and one which shows the ingenious skill of both the designer and the brand, has to do with the fact that all parts have been specifically designed to include the original three-digit lock fitted in the ziper and the two wheels designed to be as silent as possible. Marc Newson, who considers this project to be disruptive simply because no one had ever created bags like these, gives himself as an example of a frequent flyer who, like many others due to their enormous experience, knows exactly what his needs are in this field. The collection, divided into three types of bags, a rectangular-shaped duffle style in a range of colours from showy bright yellow and orange to more discreet brown or black, arrives at the brand’s boutiques at the start of 2019. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 85

Essential TABLEWARE

强强联手：昆庭和卡尔· 拉格斐宣布合作 Christofle and Karl Lagerfeld announce collaboration 时尚界传奇老佛爷卡尔· 拉格斐（Karl Lagerfeld）为银器奢侈品品牌 Christofle 昆庭设计 MOOD 系列奢华限量餐具套装，全球限量发行 1,500 套 As part of its new collaboration, Karl Lagerfeld has designed a limited edition of the Christofle ‘Mood’ with just 1,500 exclusive pieces worldwide 文/by EDWINA LIU

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方合作的结晶是卡尔 ·拉格斐版的 Mood 系列扁平餐具（刀、叉、匙）和装饰套盒——一套时尚独特的刀具。餐具套装提供两种颜色选择，限量生产。此次是昆庭首次与设计品牌合作，而拉格斐一直是昆庭的粉丝，家中藏有多件昆庭产品。拉格斐受到装饰艺术风格的设计和建筑启发，为 Mood 系列设计出椭圆蛋形装饰套盒，盒上刻印井然有序的极简线条，营造几何形上的视觉对比强烈。银色款套装餐具光亮别致，由镜面不锈钢制成，共生产 1,000 套，而黑色款则神秘亮丽，由涂漆不锈钢制成，共生产 500 套。两款套装餐具的两侧都分别刻上了昆庭的盾形商标和拉格斐的签名，盒底有编号标示，并且拉格斐也为产品精心拍照。打开其中一款套盒，便可看到一套 12 件的镀银餐具（刀、叉、匙），每件都印有拉格斐的标志，这套拉格斐版的 Mood 系列餐具将成套出售，不设散卖。 Mood 系列产品既可作为装饰，又是实用的家居和款客餐具。另一款流线型、亮丽的装饰套盒，装有一套 24 件的镀银刀具，革新了餐具的经典审美观。产品是银器工艺的优秀 86 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

he resulting collaboration is the Karl Largerfeld edition of the Mood flatware set and decorative case. A stylish and unique cutlery set. Designed by Lagerfeld, the piece will be available in two exclusive colours and produced in limited quantities. It is the first time that Christofle is joining forces with a fashion brand and Karl Lagerfeld is a long-time fan of Christofle and owns many pieces in his own home. Inspired by Art Deco design and architecture, Karl Lagerfeld’s design features structured, graphic lines on the elliptical egg shape which enhances the contrast of geometry. The polished silver option is made from mirrored stainless steel with 1,000 pieces available. The sleek black version is crafted from lacquered stainless steel with only 500 pieces made. Both are engraved with the Christofle coat of arms on one side and Karl Lagerfeld’s signature on the other. Each is numbered on the bottom. The designs have also been exquisitely photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

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典范，显示了昆庭对于轻松待客的前卫目光，彰显优雅细腻的生活方式，同时散发法式的雅致和现代风韵。昆庭的执行总裁娜塔莉 ·雷米说：”第一次与著名时装设计师合作，昆庭很自然地找到了拉格斐。我们欣赏他奇特、又富有远见的创意。我们的希望是跟一位能够体现法式雅致风格，又能创作出融汇专业知识、现代感和永恒等元素的设计师合作。拉格斐先生在国际上的名气很大，昆庭所在之处都有听闻，而且，Moon 这个合作项目能让两家品牌接触到世界各地追求享乐而又目光敏锐的客户。” 拉格斐时装品牌的执行总裁 Pier Paolo Righi 说： “昆庭和拉格斐的合作来得很自然。我们都欣赏既现代又传统，既纯粹又优雅的风格。” 一套 6 人用的 24 件镀银和装饰性餐具(限量编号版)售价 2,340 欧元(2,650 美元)，共 1000 套。一套 6 人用的 24 件镀银和装饰性餐具(限量编号版)售价 3,092 欧元(3,500 美元)，共 500 套。쐽

The Mood opens to reveal a 12-piece set of silver-plated flatware and each piece is stamped with the Karl Lagerfeld logo. This flatware will only be available in the Karl Lagerfeld Moon and not sold individually. Mood serves as both a decorative object and a useful piece for home dining and entertaining. The Mood reimagines the classic codes of table setting. Streamlined and sleek on its outside, it opens to reveal the 24-piece silver-plated cutlery set. Synonymous with excellence in silversmithing and reflecting Christofle’s avant-garde vision for relaxed entertaining that is both elegant and refined, Mood embodies French elegance and modernity. “For its first-ever collaboration with a celebrated fashion designer, Christofle quite naturally reached out to Karl Lagerfeld, whose singular and visionary creativity we admire. Our wish was to collaborate with a designer who embodies French elegance, and whose

creations blend know-how, modernity and timelessness. Mr. Lagerfeld’s international stature resonates everywhere Christofle is present. In addition, our collaboration on Mood allows both houses to speak to a cosmopolitan, discerning and epicurean hedonistic clientele,” said Nathalie Remy, CEO of Christofle. “The collaboration between Christofle and Karl Lagerfeld was a natural fit,” said Pier Paolo Righi, CEO of Karl Lagerfeld. “We have a shared appreciation for style that is contemporary yet classic, pure and elegant.” The set of 24 silver-plated and decorated pieces for 6 persons in a limited and numbered edition of 1000 pieces costs €2,340 ($2,650). The set of 24 silver-plated and decorated pieces for 6 persons in a limited and numbered edition of 500 pieces costs €3,092 ($3,500). 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 89

续写世纪名厨卢布松的烹饪传奇 The Legacy of Robuchon Lives On 论水准最高的法国料理和世上最好的大厨，很多美食家都必定会想起乔尔 · 卢布松 (Joël Robuchon)。早前，这位传奇的餐馆老板，在与癌症长期搏斗后，终于不敌病魔辞世，享年 73 岁，噩耗传来，震惊整个烹饪界 When it comes to the highest level of French cuisine and the best chef in the world, Joël Robuchon must be the name that comes to mind for most gourmands. Earlier this year, the sad news that this legendary restaurateur had died at the age of 73 following a long battle with cancer shook the whole cooking world 90 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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而，名厨卢布松的精神和对食物的热忱将永存后世。他的首席弟子 Éric Bouchenoire，及嫡传弟子 Tomonori Danzaki、 François Benot 和 Julien Tongourian 与其共事数十载，有着共同厨艺基因。他们共聚澳门新葡京，以卢布松的美馔，诉说他的传奇故事，向这位一代名厨致以特别的敬意。晚宴于天巢法国餐厅举行，这个地方对卢布松别具意义。他 50 岁时宣布退休，但不久后接受酒店管理层的盛情邀请，开设澳门首间高级食府。对一个成功的厨师来说，这是个大胆的决定。当时，葡京酒店是澳门唯一一间豪华酒店，而卢布松对澳门了解甚少。但他首次踏足小城，便爱上了此地，于是在葡京酒店开了法国餐厅 Robuchon a Galera。后来，餐厅搬到新葡京酒店，易名天巢法国餐厅。在卢布松的带领下，餐厅给一众美食迷留下了无数难忘的回忆，并连续十年获颁米其林三星荣誉。在晚宴上，出现了许多特别嘉宾，如澳门旅游局局长文绮华女士、法国驻香港及澳门总领事官远明先生和法国驻广州总领

事馆总领事周丽君女士，他们都被卢布松的美馔迷住。宾客们一一品尝四位主厨精心烹调的八道菜，极其享受这场美好的晚宴。每道菜都由厨师精心挑选，务求重现卢布松原创杰作的精髓。主厨 Julien 说：“我们精心设计菜单，旨在保留最纯正的卢布松先生作品。希望食客马上就能认得出每道菜都是卢布松先生的作品，他鼓舞了世界很多人。” 第一道菜是卢布松的代表作，鱼子酱伴花椰菜奶油及海鲜冻。大厨们依照卢布松的经典方式烹制这道菜，花了 6 小时用小牛肉熬制肉汤，而龙虾汤部分，则只用食材本身来制作其细腻的奶油。各大厨又选择特定大小和口感的黑鱼子酱来烹调。这款黑鱼子酱来自法国 Sologne，是卢布松的最爱。菜式最迷人的地方是滴在四周的酱汁小圆点，完全表现了卢布松对完美的追求。鱼子酱伴花椰菜奶油及海鲜冻是卢布松于 80 年代专为自己的首间餐厅兰斯 (Le Jamin)创造的菜式。

espected Chef Robuchon’s spirit and his passion for food will, however, live on forever. In a special tribute to Chef Robuchon’s lasting culinary legacy, his family of chefs - Éric Bouchenoire, Tomonori Danzaki, François Benot and Julien Tongourian - all of whom worked with Robuchon for decades and share his culinary DNA, are reuniting in Grand Lisboa Hotel to continue recounting Robuchon’s story through his dishes. A Gala Dinner took place at Robuchon au Dôme - special to Chef Robuchon himself when he announced his retirement at the age of 50, although it didn’t last long when he received the gracious invitation from hotel management to open Macau’s first fine dining restaurant. It was a bold decision for a successful chef. At that time, Hotel Lisboa was the only luxury hotel in the city and Robuchon knew little about Macau. But when he first visited the territory he fell in love with the small town and opened Robuchon a Galera at Lisboa Hotel, a

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restaurant which evolved into Robuchon au Dôme when the restaurant moved to Grand Lisboa Hotel. Under the guidance of Robuchon, the restaurant - which has created countless unforgettable memories for food lovers - has been awarded three Michelin stars for ten consecutive years. On the evening of the aforementioned Gala Dinner, many special guests fascinated by Robuchon’s dishes - such as Maria Helena de Senna Fernandes, Director of Macao Government Tourism Office (MGTO); Alexandre Giorgini, Consul General of France in Hong Kong and Macau; and Siv Leng Chhuor, Consul General of France in Guangzhou - were invited to attend. Guests enjoyed an amazing dinner with a meticulously handcrafted 8-course meal cooked by four chefs. Every dish,thoughtfully selected by the quartet, sought to reproduce the authenticity of Robuchon’s masterpieces. “We have carefully designed this menu to preserve the authenticity of Robuchon’s work,” said Chef Julien. “We want guests to immediately recognise that each dish is the work of Robuchon, as he was inspirational for many people around the world.” 92 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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另一道菜是淡水小龙虾云吞及烩包生菜，也是卢布松最早期的招牌菜式之一。厨师将大西洋小龙虾包在用松露调味的薄皮云吞中，让菜式散发海虾和松露美妙的香味，为食客带来感官的享受。烹调完成后，以鹅肝精华点缀，并在一侧伴以烩制的绿色包生菜。这道菜肴虽然简单，但制作出色，充分展现了各种食材的风味，是其中一道最能体现卢布松厨艺创意和优雅风格的菜式。卢布松的佳肴不仅满足食客的味蕾，而且卖相吸引。晚宴的另一款菜式是法式传统煮鸡伴时菜及日本松茸，主菜是用猪小肚、松茸和绿油烹制的法国鸡肉。这道美味的菜肴富有创意，但做法传统。厨师采用法国的 en vessie 技法，将鸡放进鼓起的猪小肚，完好

地保留鸡肉细嫩多汁的部分，然后再进行烹调。上菜时，看着服务团队将鸡肉切片，在旁边配以清淡的鹅肝奶油酱汁及松茸醬，让食客留下难忘的体验。

故事仍在繼續…

随着当晚的晚宴结束，人们对这位传奇厨师的哀悼也告一段落，但卢布松的传奇将在天巢法国餐厅永续下去。除了出类拔萃的美馔，餐厅室内装潢也叫人惊叹。餐厅中央悬挂着一盏闪闪发光的水晶吊灯，又摆设着波尔多酒庄的精美雕刻复刻，营造出一种摄人的氛围，让食客踏上名符其实的精致美食之旅。完美无瑕的服务、无可挑剔的餐桌布置、顶级的酒品选择，与极致的当代料理相輔相成。 쐽

The dinner started with Robuchon’s signature dish Le Caviar de Sologne. To maintain the tradition of the classic version of Robuchon, the chefs used veal feet to make the broth, a laborious 6-hour process, while for the lobster bouillon they used only the ingredients themselves to create the finesse of the cream. Black caviar from Sologne, the personal favourite of Robuchon, was selected by the chefs for a certain size and texture.What was most mesmerising about this dish were the dots of sauce all around the bowl, a distinct symbol of Robuchon’s perfectionism. This dish - specially designed for Robuchon’s first restaurant, Le Jamin, in the 1980s - was later introduced to restaurants all around the world. Another dish - La Langoustine, a scampi ravioli with braised green Savoy cabbage - is also one of Robuchon’s very first signature dishes. Chefs wrapped Atlantic Scampi in a thin ravioli pastry, seasoned with truffles, enabling guests to taste the beautiful aromas of langoustine and truffle. The dish was completed with garnished ravioli and a light foie gras emulsion on top, accompanied by braised green Savoy cabbage on the side. For its technical creativity and elegance it is one of the dishes that best sums up the work developed by Robuchon: making simple cuisine, very well executed, to reveal all of the flavours of the ingredients. Robuchon’s dishes not only satiate guests’ palate but are also visually appealing. At the Gala Dinner, chefs presented another famous main dish - La Poularde de Bresse, a French range chicken cooked in pork bladder, matsutake mushroom and green oil. This innovative and delectable dish was cooked in very traditional ways: using the French en vessie technique to cook chicken in a pig’s bladder. The chicken was contained in the balloon-like pork bladder to preserve the tender and juicy parts of the chicken. While eating it, guests could enjoy an unforgettable experience, watching the service team slice and serve the poularde with a light florette sauce and matsutake mushroom sauce on the side.

THE STORY CONTINUES... The one-night-only Gala Dinner drew a curtain over the mourning of the legendary chef. But Robuchon’s legacy lives on forever at Robuchon au Dôme. In addition to the exceptional French cuisine, the stunning interior of the restaurant features a glittering crystal chandelier cascading from the middle of the ceiling and beautifully carved replicas of Bordeaux chateaux, while the restaurant creates a dramatic ambience for a truly exquisite tasting journey. Impeccable service, immaculate table settings and a superb wine list all complement the superlative contemporary cuisine. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 93

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葡国菜烹饪大师 Master chef of Portuguese cuisine 澳门星际酒店开业十二周年，行政总厨陈继祖先生为酒店品味坊设计出一个集经典葡国美馔的特别菜单，让喜欢葡国菜的食客大快朵颐 This year is the 12th anniversary of StarWorld Hotel Macau. As its Executive Manager, Chef Joe Chan has designed a special Portugal menu for Temptations 文/by EDWINA LIU

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到最杰出的葡国菜烹饪专家，陈继祖当仁不让占有一席之地。他有三十余年的葡国菜烹饪经验，食客粉丝包括一众政商名流。陈继祖年轻时很喜欢同家人及他们的葡萄牙邻居一起做饭、吃饭，因此对地道的葡国菜了如指掌。高中毕业后，他想找一份不用坐办公室的工作，于是有位朋友把他介绍到澳门凯悦酒店的法式餐厅工作。 “我热爱自由和美食，”陈继祖表示，“我当时想，若做了厨师，我至少还能学到一门技能；所以就（选择了）这份职业。” 94 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

与中餐相比，陈继祖更为欣赏西餐的就餐氛围、（摆盘）卖相和烹饪技巧。他说，当时在西餐厅工作的人不多。过去三十年间，陈继祖从未放弃过自己的人生规划——成为厨师，然后成为一间餐厅的行政总厨。他说：“在酒店工作以后，我必须学习许多事；除了制作菜单上的菜式外，我还要懂得如何进行管理。我走过的道路就像在少林寺修炼一样。” 1985 年，陈继祖入行的第二年，他得到机会去澳门最好的牛扒餐厅 A Galera Restaurant 工作。在那里，他同来自葡萄牙的厨师们学到了正宗的葡国菜。餐厅的菜式品质和卖相

hen it comes to the best chef of Portuguese cuisine, Chef Joe must surely rank as one who should be included on the list. He has cooked for over thirty years and has served many celebrities and politicians. Young Joe always enjoyed cooking and eating with his family and Portuguese neighbours at home and consequently knows authentic Portuguese cuisine very well. Upon graduating from high school, he wanted to find a job that did not require him to stay in an office thus a friend introduced him to a French restaurant in Hyatt Regency Macau.

Essential CHEF

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有别于一般家庭式葡国餐厅的菜式；这一切都为陈继祖锤炼高级葡国菜烹艺奠定了坚实的基础。由于澳门特殊的历史，澳门的葡国菜应该分成三类。即使是在澳门出生的人，也可能无法区分三者的区别。作为一名葡国菜专家，陈继祖告诉我们，第一类是葡国菜，也是正宗的葡萄牙菜，应该由葡萄牙人用他们的食谱烹饪。第二类是土生葡人用改良过的食谱烹制的菜肴。最后一类指的是我们通常所说的茶餐厅里面的菜品，是中国人用改良的食谱、技巧和当地的食材烹制而成的菜肴。 “有意思的是，出于历史原因，1999 年以前，当我们代表澳门参加国际比赛时，所有菜式都被称为葡国菜，虽然正宗葡国人从未在本国吃过那些菜式，”他说。葡国菜的出品常给人一种简单、家庭式的印象。但陈继祖烹饪的菜肴却与众不同。 96 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

“我也烹饪法国菜，”他说。“因此我做的每道菜卖相都要够漂亮。但更重要的是，我从不会改变食谱和味道。例如蛋挞，我可以做出三角形版的蛋挞，但味道始终如一。” 他相信这种改变是必须的，因为如果他不跟上时代的脚步，就只能陷于过去停滞不前。

十二周年志庆特别菜单

志庆特别菜单的灵感来自回忆里的葡国菜味道。陈继祖希望透过自己的独特菜肴唤起宾客的回忆。其中一道引人瞩目的菜式是古法酿鱿鱼。该菜采用的鱿鱼来自中国南海，都精选了特定尺寸，鱿鱼用 Chouriço 葡国腊肠填充后再蒸熟。 “如果这么小的一条鱿鱼在其他餐厅要价 30 元澳门币，顾客肯定要投诉了。但烹饪这道菜很花时间，味道又极好。正是因此，我们如今很难在澳门吃到这道菜了，”陈继祖解释道。

“I love freedom and eating,” said Joe, “and I though that by being a cook at least I could learn a skill; that’s why I [chose this] career.” Compared to Chinese cuisine, Joe was more fascinated by the atmosphere, presentation and skills of Western cuisines. At that time, he said, few people worked in Western cuisine restaurants. During the last thirty years Joe has not forsaken his life’s plan, which was to become a chef and then the Executive Chef of a restaurant, saying: “When I started to work in hotels I had to learn many things; in addition to all the dishes on the menu, I needed to know administration. The path I have walked is just like practicing Buddhism in the Shaolin Temple.” In 1985, the second year of Chef Joe’s career, he got the chance to work in the best Grill in Macau, the A Galera Restaurant. There

Essential CHEF

餐厅的招牌菜海鲜饭是道必尝菜式。该菜被 CNN 旅游频道评为澳门十道最佳菜肴，用餐厅的招牌番茄香草汤文火慢炖出的米饭上铺满青口和对虾。 “唯一的秘诀就是谨遵正宗食谱的每个步骤，”陈继祖说。“米饭既不能太黏也不能太湿。” 另一道限量版甜品——暖苹果派配香草雪糕——也非常出众。新鲜的苹果切块与桂皮完美混合，绝对比法式苹果派更胜一筹。陈继祖表示推广葡国菜是他一生的使命和愿景。 “ 葡国菜并不是我的唯一，”他补充道。 “但我们是不可分割的。我希望把葡国菜提升到更高的水平，希望人们透过我的烹饪爱上葡国菜。” 陈继祖还表示，他的另一个抱负就是教授更多的学生，因为想加入烹饪业的年轻人并不多，他真心希望能够帮助年轻的厨师取得成就。 쐽

he learned about authentic Portuguese cuisine with chefs from Portugal. The quality and presentation of the restaurant were different from the family kitchens in the city; all of which helped Joe lay a solid foundation of high-end Portuguese cuisine. Because of this special history, Portuguese cuisine in Macau should be divided into three types. Even a Macau-born person might not be able to distinguish the difference. As a Portuguese specialist, Chef Joe told us that the first type of Portuguese cuisine, which is also authentic Portuguese cuisine, should be cooked by a Portuguese with their recipe. The second type is the cuisine cooked by Macanese people with their modified recipe. The last type refers to the dishes we normally know as Cha Chaan Teng, which is cooked by Chinese with their modified recipe, skills and local ingredients.

“It’s interesting,” he said. “Because of the historic factor, before 1999, when we represented Macau in international competitions, all dishes were called Portuguese cuisine, even though a real Portuguese would never eat those dishes in their country.” Portuguese cuisine’s presentation gives people the impression that it is very simple and home-style. But Chef Joe’s dishes are different. “I also cook French cuisine,” he says. “Every dish I cook I have to make them pretty. But what’s important is that I never change the recipe and taste. Such as am egg tart; I can make a triangular version but it taste the same.” The chef believes this kind of change is mandatory, adding that if he does not update he will only dwell in the past.

SPECIAL CELEBRATION MENU The celebration menu is inspired by the retrospective taste of Portuguese dishes. Chef wants to recall guests’ memories through his dedicated dishes. One of the highlights is the Squid Stuffed with Chouriço. Chef uses a certain sized squid from the South China Sea and steams it after stuffing it with Chouriço. “If this little squid costs MOP30 in restaurants outside customers must complain about the price. But it really takes time to cook and can get much profit. That’s why we almost can’t eat this dish in Macau nowadays,” Joe explained. The signature Portuguese Seafood Rice is a must-try dish. Praised by CNN Travel as one of Macau’s top 10 dishes, this exquisite specialty features plump mussels and prawns on a bed of rice slow-simmered in a signature tomato and herb broth. “The only secret is following every step of the original recipe,” said Chef Joe. “The rice can’t be too sticky and too wet.” Another limited dessert, Warm Apple Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream is also outstanding. Fresh apple cubes are perfectly mixed with cinnamon which is more interesting than the French-style pies. Promoting Portuguese cuisine is the lifelong mission and vision of Chef Joe. “Portuguese cuisine is not the only one to me,” he said. “But we are inseparable. I want to lift Portuguese cuisine to a high level and want to let people love it through my cooking.” Chef Joe also says that another ambition is teaching more students because few young people want to join the industry, adding he really wants to help young chefs succeed. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 97

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英式泡泡 British bubbles 全球最大的葡萄酒进口国之一正在发展成杰出的气泡酒生产国。英格兰气泡酒真的能与香槟媲美吗？ One of the world’s biggest wine importers is gaining ground as a sparkling wine producer of excellence. Could English bubbly really rival that of Champagne? 文/by LUIS ANTUNES

英

国的葡萄酒文化有上千年历史。最初是罗马人把葡萄树和葡萄酒文化带到这里，后来由诺曼人延续这个传统。虽然英国的天气一般对葡萄来说太冷，很难正常成熟，但普遍认为在古时候英国的葡萄酒基本是用于宗教仪式。随着时间推移，英国成为最重要的葡萄酒进口国之一。法国一直是主要的供应商，但有时葡萄牙和西班牙的强化酒也会占据主导地位。今天，新世界的葡萄酒业开始发展起来，而欧洲的其他葡萄酒新生产国也在冒起。 98 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

英国葡萄酒行业的其中一个重要之处，在于其业内人士会到其他产酒国家发展，纷纷输出公司高层、企业家、酒评师、买家甚至酿酒师。英国的葡萄酒生产本来就有限，所以 19 世纪末的流行病对其带来严重打击，特别是葡萄根瘤蚜。但自那以后，尤其是在英格兰南部和威尔士，葡萄开始重新种植，而平均气温的升高也有利于葡萄的成长，葡萄酒的品质也因此得益。自 20 世纪中叶起，尤其是到了 21 世纪，英国葡萄酒受到明显关注。然

ine culture began in the United Kingdom thousands of years ago. It was the Romans that introduced the culture of vine and wine, but the Normans continued that tradition. Although the weather was generally considered too cold for the grapes to have proper maturation, it is believed that, in the old days, wine was essentially produced to be used in religious ceremonies. Over the course of time, the UK became one of the most important wine-importing countries.

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而，即使品质受到认可，但据估计英国本地葡萄酒仅占全国葡萄酒销量的 1%。从地理上看，葡萄园主要集中在肯特郡和萨塞克斯郡，但也分布在威尔士和整个英格兰南部。2007 年，其中一个最大的葡萄园是位于伦敦西南部萨里郡的丹比斯酒庄 (Denbies)，占地 100 公顷左右。另一个大葡萄园则位于南唐斯丘陵的尼丁博酒庄 (Nyetimber Manor)，占地 140 公顷。葡萄酒标准局(Wine Standards Board)在 2017 年颁布的数据列出葡萄种植面积达 2,245 公顷，其中 1,677 公顷已用于葡萄酒。这些数字正在稳健增长，因为葡萄藤在种下后第三年即开始挂果。从葡萄酒生产来看，国际葡萄及葡萄酒组织 (OIV)数据显示，英国的产量有明显增长，过去几年曾创下一些历史纪录。即便如此， 2015 年的总产量也才 400 万升左右。为了更好地理解数据，值得留意的是，同年全球葡萄酒产量是 2,750 亿升，而像葡萄牙这样的小国家（产量还不到前十位）也产出 7 亿升 100 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

左右，而意大利是当年的全球产量之最，产出 50 亿升。尽管如此，英国本地的种植热情还是有所增长，这与人们鼓励消费本地生产的食物也有关系。

英格兰对碰法国香槟区

2004 年，在关于欧洲气泡酒的一次比赛中，前十名基本被英格兰和法国香槟区的酒酿占据。这激发了制酒商的兴趣，决定接受挑战并增加投资。科学证据似乎显示英格兰与香槟区的水土有着相似之处，这对英格兰气泡酒来说将是大好消息，因为“香槟” 这个名字一直都是很好的商业卖点，能自动带来巨大的声誉和附加利益。英格兰的东安格利亚大学最近发布一份研究，发现英格兰有 35,000 公顷的葡萄园的品质能媲美香槟区。这些研究指出，许多最好的种植区（更暖和、更干燥，而且两年间的气候也更稳定）还没被葡萄园占用。而作为一项颇具

France was always one of the main suppliers, but occasionally, the fortified wines of Portugal and Spain were prominent. Today, the New World wines are gaining ground, as well as other wine-producing countries in Europe. One of the consequences of the importance of this sector in the UK was the involvement of British professionals in other winemaking countries, be it as directors, entrepreneurs, critics, buyers and even winemakers. The limited production of wine in the UK was seriously shaken by the epidemics of the late 19th century, especially phylloxera. Since then, however, particularly in the south of England and Wales, vine plantation has restarted, and the increase in average temperatures has favoured the growth of the planted vine area, as well as the quality of wines obtained from them. Since the mid-20th century, and especially in the 21st century, there

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has been a marked interest in British wines. Even though its quality is now being recognised, it is estimated that local wine supplies just 1% of all wine consumed in the UK. Geographically, the vineyards are concentrated in the regions of Kent and Sussex, but also in Wales and spread across southern England. In 2007, one of the largest vineyards was Denbies, in Surrey (southwest of London), with around 100 hectares. Another large vineyard can be found in South Downs, with Nyetimber Manor reaching 140 hectares. The statistics published by the Wine Standards Board in 2017 listed 2,245 hectares of vines, 1,677 of which are already in production. These numbers show solid growth, as vines can start bearing fruit in the third year after being planted. In terms of wine production, and according to data from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), the UK has increased the quantity sensibly, with the last few years offering some historical records. Even so, the total in 2015 was of around 4 million litres. To put that figure into perspective, it is worth noting that wine production in that same year was of 275 billion litres, and a small country like Portugal (just shy of the top 10) produced around 700 million litres, and the biggest global producer in that year, Italy, produced 5 billion litres. Still, enthusiasm has grown, also linked to the growth of consumption of locally produced foods.

ENGLAND VS CHAMPAGNE In 2004, a competition of European sparkling wines saw the top 10 dominated by English wines, alongside French wines from Champagne. This sparked the interest of winemakers, who accepted the challenge and boosted investment. Scientific evidence seem to support the similarity between the two terroirs, which would be great news for the English bubblies, as the Champagne name is always an excellent foot in the door as a commercial pitch, automatically bringing a ton of prestige and added advantages. The University of East Anglia recently published a study that identified 35,000 hectares of vineyards of excellence that could rival the Champagne region. These studies indicated that many of the best areas (warmer, drier and more stable from one year to the next) are not yet occupied by vineyards. And vineyards, a considerable and risky investment, could also bring a return several times larger than other crops, such as wheat. Many English sparkling wine producers think that, with Brexit, there could be a commercial advantage compared to other European sparkling wines. This is not the opinion of the influential critic and analyst Jamie Goode, who argues that it is silly to state that the wines are better than those from Champagne, and favours open competition as a means to continue to improve the quality of the wines, offering wine consumers increasingly good and more exciting

风险的大投资，葡萄园也可能带来比诸如小麦等其他作物高几倍的回报。许多英格兰气泡酒生产商认为，随着英国脱欧，英格兰气泡酒可能比其他欧洲气泡酒更具商业优势。但著名评论家和分析家杰米 ·古德(Jamie Goode)则有不同看法，他认为声称英格兰气泡酒比香槟区的优胜是荒唐的，并认为应该通过公开比赛的方式继续改善酒的品质，为消费者带来越来越好和更激动人心的酒，而不是把自己隔离起来。古德尤其认为，英国葡萄良好的天然酸度虽然很好，但这不能凌驾于生产均衡的葡萄酒的最终目标之上。酸度是需要与其他成分适当地融合的。目前似乎可以确定的是，英国葡萄酒将会专注于气泡酒领域，而其中最有趣的品种与香槟区的一样：霞多丽、黑比诺和莫尼耶比诺。英国本地的葡萄还没打响名堂，其他种类的酒也一样，不论是奶油酒、白葡萄酒或桃红葡萄酒。然而，随着全球暖化的持续，谁知道未来英国酿酒业会如何发展？澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 101

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英格兰气泡酒

凭着典型的英式幽默，英国气泡酒公司 Coates & Seely— — 曾将英国气泡酒命名为 Britagne（不列颠槟），将其 2009 年的顶级气泡酒命名为 rosé La Perfide（背信弃义的桃红葡萄酒），而该酒也获得了英式气泡酒有史以来最高的赞誉。而最近，Coates & Seely 大幅提升品质标准，而它的酒以微妙和精细的口感让人印象深刻。其葡萄园位于英格兰南部的汉普郡。克里斯蒂安 ·希利 (Christian Seely)的专业经验对该公司的建立和成功而言至关重要。希利是安盛酒业(Axa Millésimes)的首席执行官，居住在法国波尔多，运营着碧尚男爵堡和飞鸟园等重要酒庄。同样在南部的南唐斯丘陵，是《末日审判书》曾提到的尼丁博酒庄(Nyetimber)——那是一本 1086 年的手稿，用于调查英格兰和威尔士部分地区的地产情况。对法国香槟区三大葡萄品种的种植源于 1988 年，分布在萨塞克斯郡、汉普郡和肯特郡的九块地上。这里有石灰石砂和白垩土，加上朝南的山坡，保证了葡萄获得良好的日照，从而达到最佳的成熟状态。尼丁博酒庄曾经八次被国际葡萄酒与烈酒大赛 (IWSC)评为英国最佳制酒商。它的顶级系列——白葡萄酒和桃红葡萄酒版的 “Nyetimber 1086”，充满魅力和高雅，同时颇具结构感和柔滑。同在南唐斯丘陵，位于萨塞克斯郡的邻居里奇维尤酒庄 (Ridgeview)创建于 1995 年，在白垩土上种植葡萄，并有一个地下酒窖。创始人麦克 ·罗伯茨 (Mike Roberts)曾担任英国葡萄酒生产商联盟的主席达 10 年。2014 年在他去世后，下一代继承了他的事业：女儿塔玛拉·罗伯茨是现任首席执行官，而儿子西蒙则是首席酿酒师。如今，里奇维尤酒庄每年生产 25 万瓶酒，全球都有它的身影，包括在白金汉宫的国宴上以及在唐宁街 10 号内。里奇维尤的顶级白中白 (Blanc de Blancs) 在 2010 年被品醇客世界葡萄酒大赛 (DWWA) 评为全球最佳气泡酒。其他杰出的酒庄还包括温斯顿庄园和哈亭蕾谷。英格兰气泡酒最好的特点是其充满活力但又完美融合的酸度，连同精细微妙的气泡，含蓄的香气和味道，已经达到明显的复杂层次。置于全世界的脉络看，首先必须考虑英格兰气泡酒的历史尚短，同时其他古老产区已用数十年甚至数百年时间去改善气泡酒酿造中的大量细节。从地理相似度看，或者更确切说，从与法国香槟区相似的水土来看，这是优点也是缺点，带来了让人振奋却充满危险的考验。也许没有其他产区能如此轻易就能在葡萄酒中实现出香槟的微妙和复杂层次。然而，香槟区凭借传统、声望以及高超的酿酒工艺，在长久和充满耐心的酿酒岁月中轻松胜出这项比较。香槟区更暖和湿度更低的气候也有利于每一年的稳定生产。爱国情怀也许有助于英国本地酒的发展。此外，随着时间推移，技术人员也会增长经验并生产出越来越好的酒。就酒而言，全球暖化也许是件好事。 쐽

wines, but without closing themselves off. In particular, Goode believes that the good natural acidity of British grapes, although welcomed, cannot overshadow the end goal of having balanced wines. It is necessary for the acidity to be properly integrated. What seems to be clear is that British wines will be concentrated on sparkling wines and that the most interesting varieties are the same as those in the Champagne region: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Native English grapes haven’t managed to make their mark, nor have other types of wine, whether it is cream wines, whites or rosés. But with global warming continuing, who knows what the future will bring to the winemaking Albion of yore?

ENGLISH SPARKLE With typical English humour, the company Coates&Seely (which coined the term Britagne for British sparkling wine) named its 2009 top-of-the-range rosé La Perfide, achieving the most critical acclaim ever for a British bubbly. Although recent, Coates&Seely has raised the standard of quality considerably, and its wines impress for their subtlety and refinement. Its vineyards are located in the South of England, in Hampshire. The experience of Christian Seely, CEO of Axa Millésimes, who lives in Bordeaux and runs important estates like Château Pichon-Baron and Quinta do Noval, has been vital in the establishment and recognition of the brand. Also in the South, in South Downs, are the vineyards of Nyetimber, the house mentioned

in the Domesday Book, a manuscript from 1086 with a survey of property in England and parts of Wales. The plantations of the three main Champagne varieties date back to 1988 and are divided into nine parcels in the counties of Sussex, Hampshire and Kent. The limestone sand and chalk soils and south-facing hillsides ensure good exposure for the grapes to achieve optimal maturation. Nyetimber was considered the best UK wine producer eight times at the International Wine and Spirits Competition. Its top-of-the-range Nyetimber 1086, in the white and rosé versions, is seductive and elegant, with structure and smoothness. Its neighbours in South Downs, in the county of Sussex, with vines planted in chalky soils and an underground cellar to age the wines, Ridgeview was founded in 1995. Its founder Mike Roberts was president of the English Wine Producers for 10 years. When he passed away in 2014, his work was carried on by the next generation: Tamara Roberts is the CEO and her brother Simon the chief winemaker. Today, Ridgeview produces a quarter of a million bottles a year, served across the world including at State banquets at Buckingham Palace and at No10 Downing Street. The top-of-the-range Ridgeview Blanc de Blancs was named the best sparkling wine in the world at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2010. Several other houses are producing wines of excellence, such as Winston Estate or Hattingley Valley. The best characteristics of English sparkling wines are the lively but perfectly integrated acidity, along with a fine and delicate bubble, subtle aromas and flavours, and the fact that they are already achieving a notable sophistication. To place British bubblies in the world, we should first consider that its history is still very recent and there is a myriad details that other older regions have had decades or centuries to refine. The geographical similarity, or rather, the likeness of the terroir with that of Champagne, brings advantages and disadvantages, presenting an exciting yet dangerous challenge. Perhaps no other region has this bonus of so easily offering Champagne’s subtlety and complexity to wines. Yet, Champagne wines win the comparison comfortably, thanks to the tradition, prestige and the experience of drawing the very best of what the grapes have to offer, with long and patient ageing processes. The warmer and less humid climate of Champagne also favours production stability year after year. It is possible that the feeling of British nationalism could favour national wines. Besides that, time keeps going by and the technicians keep gaining experience and producing increasingly better wines. Here, global warming could be a good thing. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 103

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新濠为本澳儿童举办秋季烧烤日新濠博亚娱乐有限公司积极推动举办各类活动，鼓励员工参与义务工作，造福社群。在凉爽的天气下，逾 25 名新濠义工和澳门恩慈院儿童之家的 15 名儿童在路环黑沙共享烧烤之乐。新濠博亚娱乐执行副总裁兼人力资源及企业社会责任总监高桥明子小姐表示：“新濠很高兴能继续与区内值得信赖的伙伴合作，这次与恩慈院儿童之家合作正是好例子。我们将继续致力促进社会包容及融合，建立更和谐健康的社会。”

Melco hosts Autumn barbecue event with community children Melco Resorts & Entertainment encourages and facilitates events for employees to engage in volunteerism and benefiting the community. Over 25 Melco volunteers spent time with children from the community to enjoy a barbecue at Hac Sa, Coloane amid refreshing temperatures with 15 young beneficiaries from the ECF Fellowship Orphanage Inc. Ms. Akiko Takahashi, Executive Vice President, Chief Officer of Human Resources and Corporate Social Responsibility of Melco Resorts & Entertainment, said: “Melco is pleased to continue working with trusted partners in the community such as for this event with ECF Fellowship Orphanage Inc. and will continue in our endeavours to build a more harmonious and healthy society through promoting social inclusion and integration.”

中免旗舰免税店进驻上葡京澳门博彩股份有限公司（澳博）与中国免税品（集团）有限公司宣布，双方签订具约束力的合作备忘录，将在澳博的 “上葡京 ”综合度假村开设中免集团的澳门旗舰免税店。免税店是 “上葡京 ”的主要商户，位处 “上葡京 ”购物中心一楼的优越位置，占地约 7,500 平方米，乃中免集团首间开设于澳门机场以外的市内分店。“上葡京” 购物中心位于综合度假村的一楼及二楼，总面积达 53,000 平方米。

CDFG Macau Flagship in Grand Lisboa Palace Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, S.A. (‘SJM’) and China Duty Free Group Co., Ltd. (‘CDFG’) have announced that they have entered into a binding Memorandum of Understanding for CDFG’s Macau flagship store opening in the Grand Lisboa Palace, SJM’s future integrated resort. The Macau flagship store will be in Grand Lisboa Palace’s 53,000 square metre retail mall, which will occupy the first and second floors. Spanning approximately 7,500 square metres in a prime first floor retail space at the Grand Lisboa Palace, this anchor tenant will be the first off-airport outlet of CDFG in Macau.

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Essential NEWS

银娱合办“ 负责任博彩乐满FUN”活动近日，银河娱乐集团联同博彩业职工之家合办为期 11 日的 “负责任博彩乐满 FUN”活动，以加强员工对负责任博彩的认识。活动设有互动游戏、咨询展板及即时辅导倾谈站，吸引了超过 1200 名员工参与。银娱帐房部经理李妙华女士表示：“公司为员工提供充足的负责任博彩资讯，也经常举办负责任博彩宣传活动。我认为这有助员工深入了解负责任博彩的要点。除了这些活动，公司也提供咨询服务，每位员工都能使用。”

Galaxy Entertainment Group co-organise Responsible Gaming FUN Day Galaxy Entertainment Group (‘GEG’) and the Gaming Industry Employees Home recently co-organised the Responsible Gaming(RG) FUN Day. With more than 1,200 team members participating, this 11-day event offered activities seeking to enhance knowledge of Responsible Gaming. The event featured interactive games, display boards and consultation booths. Ms. Bowie Lei, Cage Manager of Galaxy Macau, said: “GEG provides team members with ample responsible gaming-related information and also organises team member workshops. I think that this helps team members develop a strong grasp of principles of responsible gaming. In addition to these activities, the company also provides consultation services open to all team members.”

MGM organises national education seminar

美高梅办国情教育讲座自 2016 年起，美高梅便开始举办各类国情教育讲座。是次讲座以“粤港澳大湾区建设与澳门发展机遇”为题，邀请了中国（深圳）综合开发研究院常务副院长郭万达博士作为主讲嘉宾，分享大湾区为澳门所带来的各项发展机遇和挑战，有三百多名美高梅员工及本地高等院校教职员出席。美高梅中国控股有限公司首席执行官及执行董事简博贤说：“澳门虽小却大。虽然澳门的土地面积及人口较小，但大湾区建设为我们带来巨大的发展机遇。我们需要明白，不只是我们为湾区发展作出贡献，我们也可抓紧机遇，充分利用湾区正在发展的国际科技、金融服务和创意产业资源。”

MGM held a new seminar in its series of seminars on national education since 2016, titled The Development of the Greater Bay Area and Opportunities for Macau. Dr. Guo Wanda, Executive Vice President of the China Development Institute was invited as keynote speaker to shed light on both the opportunities and challenges of the Greater Bay Area (‘GBA’) plan for Macau. More than 300 MGM team members and teaching staff from local tertiary educational institutions attended the seminar. “We are small but we are large; we are small in landmass and population but we are large because of the opportunities that the GBA provides us. We need to understand that it is not just about what we can do to provide output to the GBA; it also provides us with the opportunities to tap into international technology, financial services and creative industries that are evolving in the GBA.” said Mr. Grant Bowie, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director of MGM China Holdings Limited

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 105

Essential EVENT

五名本地时尚及生活代表荣膺 2018 澳门商务大奖 Local Fashion and lifestyle stars born on the stage of 2018 Business Awards of Macau 12 月 15 日，星期四，城中三百余名商界精英齐聚新葡京酒店，共同见证第六届澳门商务大奖颁奖典礼 On Thursday 15th December, some 300 of the city’s leading business figures gathered at the 6th Annual Buisness Awards of Macau Gala Ceremony in the Grand Lisboa 106 | DECEMBER - JANUARY 2018/19 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential EVENT

今年，三十名评审独立评选下，选出共五十一名获奖者，彰显最佳产业形象代表和最高标准。其中，五名本地时尚及生活范畴的菁英荣膺大奖。

This year, 51 winners were selected by a judging panel of 30 independent members who voted for those they considered to be the best exemplars in the city, while advancing and increasing awareness of best industry practices and standards. Surpriselgly, 5 new stars of the Macau Fashion and lifestyle world were born on the stage this year.

他们是：1）吕嘉莹，CHA BEI 创始人、投资组合和生活方式运营主管以及银河娱乐集团时尚品味研策事务助理副总裁、 2）梁衍奇、墨泉时尚文化有限公司创办人及执行董事、3）罗伟杰，行政总裁及设计师，Nuno Lopes of London、4）Clássico Moderno、5）黄茔珊，店铺总监，路易威登澳门有限公司

They are: 1) Joanna Lui Hickox, founder of CHA BEI, head of portfolio & lifestyle operations, AVP of Lifestyle Curation of Galaxy Entertainment Group (GEG); 2) Inky Leong, the founder and excutive director of I.N.K Fashion Company Limited; 3) Nuno Lopes de Oliveira, CEO and Designer of Nuno Lopes London; 4) Clássico Moderno; 5) Athena Wong, the store director of Louis Vuitton Macau Company, Ltd.

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2018年 12月- 2019年 1月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

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Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店