ESSENTIAL MACAU. JUNE / JULY 2018 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2018年 6-7月第 44期 No. 44 June - July 2018

万国表 IWC 精湛非凡制表技艺 The fine art of watchmaking

魅力上海 Magical Shanghai 一座伟大的城 The greatness of a city

亚洲时装设计师 Asian fashion designers 征服世界 Conquering the world

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50 Mainland China RMB 50

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澳门：即将崛起的时尚之都？

NEXT FASHION CAPITAL?

时间飞逝！眨眼间又到夏天了。欢迎您造访活力四射的澳门！

How time flies! In the blink of an eye, Summer is here. Welcome to our vibrant city!

随着经济的复苏，是该聊聊澳门的多元发展契机了。澳门既是 “一带一路 ”规划中的重要节点，而且与葡语国家关系稳固；此外，毗邻横琴也为澳门赢得了巨大的机遇和丰富的土地资源。拥有如此多优势的澳门应该能一飞冲天，开发种种可能性。本期《精华》杂志着眼澳门时尚产业发展现状。澳门本地时尚品牌零售巨头彩虹集团宣布，将在横琴岛打造豪华商品综合设施——彩虹生活广场。本期《精华》杂志对话统治彩虹时尚帝国的女王萧婉仪女士，听她讲述彩虹集团的精彩故事，聆听她如何以 5,000元澳门币起家，打造出如今的时尚帝国。您还可以了解到中国最著名的高定时装设计师郭培的最新系列，作为首位在巴黎装饰艺术博物馆举行个展的中国设计师，她将在美狮美高梅开设自己的首间澳门定制会馆。最后，亚洲时尚力量正在国际时尚界开疆拓土。《精华》杂志前往上海，独家采访众多才华横溢的亚洲设计师。在探究澳门是否会有机会成为下一个崛起的时尚之都此结果前，我们可以保证，澳门至少是最佳的休闲娱乐圣地之一。高级度假村为游客提供数不胜数的娱乐选择，既有无与伦比的美味佳肴，更有众多难以抗拒的引人节目。我们还将在本期向您详细介绍土生葡国菜与葡萄牙美食的不同之处。祝您的澳门之旅开心愉快！

Following its economic revival, it’s time to talk about the various possibilities of this city. As a major link in the Belt and Road initiative, Macau has strong relationships with Portuguese-speaking countries; moreover, neighbouring Hengqin also provides huge opportunities and land resources. With these advantages, the city should burst out into even more diverse fascinations. In this issue, Essential Macau looks at Macau’s fashion industry. Macau-based fashion brand retail giant Rainbow announces its latest project in Hengqin Island - Rainbow Life Plaza, a luxury goods complex. In this issue, Essential talks with the queen of this fashion empire, Terri Sio, to know more about her amazing stories and how she turned MOP5,000 into the conglomerate she rules today. You can also check out the latest collection of China’s most renowned couturier Guo Pei, the first Chinese designer to hold a solo exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The designer is going to open her first Macau store in MGM Cotai. Last but not least, Asian fashion power is now trailblazing across the international fashion industry. Essential Macau went to Shanghai to exclusively interview an array of talented Asian designers. Before we find out if we have a chance of becoming the next fashion capital, we can guarantee, at least, that the city is one of the best leisure destinations. High-end resorts offer countless entertainment options, with delicious cuisine an irresistible draw. In this issue, we detail the differences between Macanese cuisine and Portuguese cuisine. We hope you enjoy your visit to Macau!

专题特写 FEATURES 12

美食 Cuisine

正宗澳门土生菜

THE AUTHENTIC MACANESE CUISINE

访谈 interview 《澳门精华》对话中国导演董越

ESSENTIAL MACAU SPEAKS TO CHINESE DIRECTOR DONG YUE

展览 exhibition 卢浮宫呈献历史性的德拉克罗瓦回顾展

THE LOUVRE HOLDS AN EXHIBITION EUGÈNE DELACROIX’S WORKS

零售业 Retail 专访彩虹集团创始人兼总裁萧婉仪

INTERVIEW WITH TERRY SIO, FOUNDER RAINBOW GROUP

AND PRESIDENT OF THE

高定 Couture 郭培在美狮美高梅开设首间定制会馆

GUO PEI OPENS ITS FIRST STORE MGM COTAI

眼镜 eyewear 传统和个性独特的高端眼镜品牌 Jacques Marie Mage

夏日情怀

SUMMER MOOD

EXCLUSIVITY AND TRADITION THROUGH THE FRAMES OF JACQUES MARIE MAGE

名车 Car

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

THE NEW FERRARI PORTOFINO

名表 watches

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

POSSESSION COLLECTION BY PIAGET

名表 watches

DISCOVERING THE CITY OF SHANGHAI

IWC, THE ART OF WATCHMAKING

时尚 Fashion

EDGAR LOPES, THE NEW CHEF OF CAFÉ BELA VISTA AT GRAND LAPA

THE RISE OF ASIAN FASHION ON THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET

时尚 Fashion

名厨 Chef 金丽华酒店荟景阁咖啡厅新任主厨艾德格·阿尔维斯

亚洲时尚力量崛起国际市场

旅游 Travel 探索上海

IWC万国表，非凡制表技艺

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

伯爵Possession系列新款腕表

美妆品 Beauty 精华奢侈美妆品

全新法拉利Portofino

潮流 Trends

美酒 drink 坦奎利10号特级金酒——对完美的极致追求

时装—色彩缤纷

RIOT OF COLOUR

TANQUERAY Nº TEN – THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION

100

美酒 wine 百年Gaja嘉雅

THE CENTENARIAN GAJA HOUSE

106

新闻速递 news 酒店业新闻集锦

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUNDUP

108

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购物 Shopping 澳门奢侈购物精华指南

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LUXURY SHOPPING IN MACAU

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com 衬衣 Shirt: 古琦 Gucci 长裤 Trousers: 纪梵希 Givenchy 太阳镜 Sunglasses: André Ópticas 项链 Necklace: Maria João Bahia 手镯 Bracelets: Malíparmi 戒指 Ring: Machado Joalheiro

摄影及助理 PhoTogRaPhy: PedRo FeRReiRa, aSSiSTed By ana viegaS andJoão Tainha 模特 model: Roxanne maTThee (we aRe modelS)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso 广告营运部 Advertising sales

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 essential@projectasiacorp.com 战略营销伙伴 Strategic marketing partner Derrick Tran - derrick.tran@projectasiacorp.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

10 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Carlos Torres, Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Chad Merchant, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques, Luís Antunes 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

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探索澳门土生菜的独特之处 Explore the uniqueness of Macanese cuisine 来跟我们一起发掘小城最好的澳门土生菜 Follow us to discover the best Macanese cuisine in town

每

位到访澳门的旅客都想品尝正宗的本地美食。在澳门大多数餐厅都会称澳葡菜和葡萄牙菜为葡国菜，因此对于中国游客来说对两者的差别不得而知。澳门土生菜是非洲、印度、马来西亚以及华人饮食所用的物料和葡萄牙食材、香料和烹饪技术的融汇，形成了其自身独特的菜式，在 400 多年历史中不断演变发展。实际上，它被认为是世界上第一个融合菜系，是一种家庭式烹饪，烹调所需时间很长。土生菜主要以新鲜海鲜入馔，菜单上常见到鳕鱼、螃蟹和沙丁鱼等菜式，尽管其味道带有葡萄牙风味。会大量使用辣椒、番红花和肉桂等香料，而广东菜主要以清鲜和

12 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

简单胜出，土生菜则通常经过长时间的焗或烘烤，以使香料的味道能够融入食物。澳门有很多不同的美味佳肴之选。对于那些寻求高标准用餐环境的食客，度假村里的餐厅是最好的选择。然而，如果您走出度假村，离开游客热点，您会找到一两个隐秘的美食圣殿，它们传承着澳门精神，以及美味的澳门本地美食。

Gosto - 葡轩

事实上，提供土生菜的度假村餐厅并不多，但位于澳门银河的 Gosto - 葡轩则出品澳门土生菜和葡式美食，是一家屡获殊荣的餐厅。白墙，蓝砖，铜灯笼，彩色餐盘和

hen visiting Macau everybody wants to taste authentic local cuisine. Macanese cuisine and Portuguese cuisine are called Portuguese cuisine in Chinese, with most visitors unable to distinguish the difference between the two. Macanese cuisine is a blend of ingredients from Africa, India, Malaysia and local and Portuguese ingredients, spices and cooking techniques and has its own set of distinct dishes, evolving over the 400-year presence of the Portuguese in Macau. It is believed, in fact, to be the world’s first fusion cuisine - home-style cooking that requires a long time to prepare.

Essential CUISINE

木地板装饰，踏进葡轩，你会感觉犹如置身于葡萄牙。这里的必尝菜是澳门非洲鸡。鲜甜，咸香，坚果味和辛辣味使这道菜成为澳门名菜，是一款永恒、大受欢迎的标志性菜肴。当然，你在这里尝到的非洲鸡与非洲的非洲鸡完全不同，但其中依然有迹可循。这道菜的灵感来自在非洲深受欢迎的 piri-piri 鸡，由葡萄牙军队带到澳门，配以来自果阿和印度等他们军旅经过的国家的香草和香料。厨师将葱、蒜、柠檬草，橄榄和花生酱、椰奶和辣椒酱等香料下锅炒香，制成美味的酱汁。然后，将酱汁放在已经油炸并焗烤过一段时间的鸡肉上，将其放入焗炉焗烤约 20 分钟。葡轩的澳门土生风格非洲鸡，还配上焗薯（烤薯）以平衡鸡肉的辣味。餐厅还提供 Gosto 小吃板，包括招牌澳门小吃，如炸马介休球（鳕鱼丸）和脆香炸虾。另备有品种丰富的葡国葡萄酒供您选择匹配各式美味佳肴。

Macanese cuisine is largely based upon fresh seafood - codfish, crab, and sardines all feature on menus - although its flavours are influenced by the Portuguese. Spices such as chilli, saffron, and cinnamon, amongst others, feature heavily, and while Cantonese cooking largely relies upon freshness and simplicity Macanese dishes are often baked or roasted for long periods to allow the flavour of the spices to infuse the food. There are many different choices of delicious dishes in Macau. For those looking for a high standard dining environment restaurants in resorts are the best option. However, if you venture beyond the resorts and off the beaten tourist track you’ll find one or two hidden gems where the soul of Macau lives on, as does its delicious native cuisine.

GOSTO In point of fact, not that many resort restaurants offer Macanese cuisine, although Gosto at Galaxy Macau is an award-winning restaurant which combines Macanese and Portuguese cuisine culture. Its white walls, blue bricks, copper lanterns, colourful plates and wooden floors, however, make you feel like you are in Portugal. The must-try dish here is the Macanese style roasted African chicken. Sweet, savoury, nutty, and spicy flavours make this dish the timeless, popular and iconic dish Macau is famous for. For sure, the African chicken you can taste here is totally different from the chicken in Africa - but we can still find some clues in it. The dish is inspired by piri-piri chicken, which is beloved in Africa, and was brought to Macau by the Portuguese army, complete with herbs and spices from the countries they had passed through like Goa and India. The chef stir-fries spices like shallot, garlic, lemongrass with olive and peanut butter, coconut milk and chilli paste to make a delicious sauce. Then, putting this sauce on the chicken which has been fried and baked for a while, it is placed in the oven for about 20 minutes. The Macanese style roasted African chicken in Gosto is also accompanied by roast potatoes to balance the spiciness of the chicken. The restaurant also offers a Gosto Tapas board comprising signature Macanese smallbite tapas such as deep-fried codfish balls and crumbed prawns. To pair with these dishes, a large range of Portuguese wines is available for you to choose from. FAT SIU LAU When speaking of the independent Macanese cuisine restaurant outside resorts, Fat Siu Lau is second to none. Founded in 1903, the restaurant has been serving delicious Macanese

佛笑楼

谈到酒店外的个体澳门土生菜餐厅，佛笑楼可谓首屈一指。始创于 1903 年，佛笑楼为多代食家提供美味的土生菜肴，其中包括一代功夫宗师李小龙、著名演员山口淑子 (中文名：李香兰)和周润发等知名人士。佛笑楼的招牌菜之一是咖喱蟹，这是土生菜中的必尝菜式。像大多数土生美食一样，它是款简单菜式，加入了姜黄、咖喱和椰奶。厨师将新鲜螃蟹混合餐厅的秘制咖喱酱下锅炒制，造出这款令人难忘的海鲜美味。如果你想探索佛笑楼附近的澳门古老街区，可以去福隆新街一游。福隆新街建于清朝中期，这是个灯红酒绿之地，集聚妓院、赌馆、鸦片馆和酒肆。今天，你会见到整条街道仍然以其动感十足的标志性红色示人，两旁小商店和餐馆林立，这里的美食也不容错过。由于该街区深受游客欢迎，因此如果您想在此拍一些视线无遮挡的照片，早上第一时间来参观就没错。澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 13

Essential CUISINE

cuisine to generations of foodies – including appreciative celebrities like kung-fu doyen Bruce Lee, Shirley Yamaguchi and Chow Yun Fat. One of the signature dishes of Fat Siu Lau is the curried crab, which is another must-try dish of Macanese cuisine. Like most Macanese dishes, it is simple and spiced up with turmeric, curry and coconut milk. The chef stir-fries fresh crabs with the restaurant’s secret curry sauce, producing an unforgettable experience. And if you want to explore the old nearby streets of the city make for Rua da Felicidade. Constructed in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, it was a place of prostitution, gambling, opium consumption and drinking. Today, you will find the street still in its signature vibrant red but ‘populated’ by many small shops and eateries that must be tried. Visits are good first thing in the morning if you want to take some uncluttered photographs as the area is popular with tourists.

Rico’s - 富仕葡式美食

如上所述，澳门土生菜很大程度上是一种家庭式烹饪。在 Rico’s 餐厅，您将在温馨的家庭氛围中体验正宗的美食。这家餐厅由一对夫妇经营，深受许多本地居民的喜爱。菜单并不花哨，但所有的菜肴都简单而美味。烧鸡釀饭是餐厅最好卖的菜式。厨师首先将鸡去骨，然后把洋葱、辣椒、葡萄牙香肠和炒饭填入鸡肚里面，整个鸡放进烤箱烤。烤好后的鸡，鸡皮很脆，内里米饭则吸收了所有材料的美味汁液。餐厅还出品其他多款美味佳肴，包括炒蚬（使用白葡萄酒和香菜来带出海鲜的鲜甜味）。无论是葡国菜还是澳门土生菜，咸马介休（经盐腌制的鳕鱼）都是重要的食材，在 Rico’s，厨师将薯蓉（土豆泥）和奶油混和马介休，经烤焗后，这道菜尝起来顺滑、奶香扑鼻，就像热冰淇淋。 쐽

14 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

RICO’S Macanese cuisine is, as stated, very much home-style cooking. And in Rico’s restaurant you will experience the authentic cuisine in a cozy home-feel atmosphere. Run by a couple, this restaurant is beloved by many local residents. The menu is not fancy but all of the dishes are simple and delicious. Portuguese chicken with rice is the best seller here. The chef de-bones the bird before stuffing it with onion, chilli pepper, Portuguese sausage and stir-fried rice. After roasting, the chicken skin is very crispy, while the rice absorbs all the tasty juices. More delicacies include stirfried clams, using white wine and coriander to tease out all the sweetness of the seafood. No matter Portuguese cuisine or Macanese cuisine, salty cod (bacalhau) is an important ingredient, which the chef mixes with mashed potato and cream; after baking, the dish tastes smooth and milky - just like hot ice cream! 쐽

国际青年舞蹈节 2018 International Youth Dance Festival 2018 来自世界各地的舞蹈英才将汇聚国际青年舞蹈节 2018 Talented young dancers from all over the world will gather at the International Youth Dance Festival 2018

国

际青年舞蹈节每两年举办一次，已经成为濠江万众瞩目的一项盛事，为本澳青年舞蹈爱好者提供一个向全球各地舞蹈团学习和交流的平台。国际青年舞蹈节由教育暨青年局主办，过去 30 年间吸引了来自全球 40 多个国家和地区的舞蹈团参与。今届舞蹈节将比往届更为精彩可期，来自葡萄牙、以色列、俄罗斯、土耳其等国家的

16 支舞蹈团，将连同 10 支本地舞蹈团于 7 月 21 日以巡游演出的方式为舞蹈节揭开序幕。巡游演出以世遗景点大三巴牌坊为起点，最后行至议事亭前地（喷水池）。所有团队将合力献上精彩表演，为观众营造热情、活力的节庆气氛。整个舞蹈节期间，一众舞蹈演员将展演他们的精湛舞艺，并参与嘉年华和艺能展现工作坊。 쐽

roviding a platform for young Macau dancers to learn and communicate with dance groups from around the globe, the biennial International Youth Dance Festival is always an eagerly anticipated event. Organised by the Education and Youth Affairs Bureau, the International Youth Dance Festival has attracted over 40 countries and regions during the past 30 years. This year, the Festival promises to be more exciting than ever with 16 teams arriving from countries like Portugal, Israel, Russia and Turkey - together with 10 local teams - kicking off with a parade from the Ruins of St. Paul’s to Senado Square on 21 July. All the teams will join together in a vibrant, energetic celebration during which these talented youngsters will showcase their amazing dance performances, in addition to participating in a carnival and workshop. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 15

Essential INTERVIEW

与导演对话 Dialogue with director 文/by CAMPBELL MCLEAN 图世纪百年影业(天津)有限公司/Production stills photo credit CENTURY PICTURES

去

年上映获得高度赞誉的中国电影《暴雪将至》是由电影摄影师转型为导演的董越亲自撰写剧本及拍摄。这部描述神秘黑色凶杀案的作品在近日于澳门威尼斯人酒店第 12 届亚洲电影大奖获得多项提名，导演董越并最终获得最佳新导演奖。 Campbell McLean 于亚洲电影大奖期间与导演近距离访谈，为读者展现电影故事中黑暗背景的灵感来源以及导演对于电影表达及中国电影业未来方向的看法。简介一下电影《暴雪将至》的剧情？这是关于一个小人物在一个特定的大背景下寻凶的一个故事。故事发生在 1997 年的前后，这个小人物为了赢得他理想中的一个身份吧，一个社会认同，然后不断的去寻找一个真相。然后他最后在这个过程当中，不断的被一个命运的漩涡所裹挟、被陷住的这样一个过程。这故事有什么吸引你的地方？拍片意念是怎样发展而成的？这个故事最初的想象和灵感来源呢，是我在 2013 年的时候，在网上看到一座西北小城，因为能源枯竭，慢慢完全变成一个废弃和一个破败的小城的故事。在那个图片里边，那个小城已经变得完全荒废的一种外貌，然后有很多的老人生活在其中。当时的那个图文报道，对我有很大的触动作用，我瞬间就会对这种时间的流逝，一个环境的衰败，产生了以一种极大的兴趣。所以呢，我就非常有兴趣去研究关于 90 年代，前前后后，中国在转型时期时候的一些变化。 16 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ne of the most critically acclaimed new Chinese films released last year was ‘The Looming Storm’, written and directed by cinematographer-turned director Dong Yue. The film noir murder mystery was nominated in a number of categories at the 12th Asian Film Awards held recently at The Venetian Macao, with Dong Yue receiving the award for Best New Director. Campbell McLean caught up with the director during the Asian Film Awards to inquire about the motives for the story’s dark setting and the filmmaker's thoughts on the language of cinema and the direction of the Chinese film industry. What is the synopsis for The Looming Storm? It’s a story about an ordinary man looking for a murderer against a particular backdrop. The story is set around 1997. The character is looking for his ideal sense of identity, a kind of social recognition, the man keeps searching for the truth, and in the process, he ends up trapped in a vortex of fate. What attracted you to the story? How did the idea evolve? The original inspiration for this story can be traced back to 2013 when I read an online report about a small town in Northwest China. Which, due to over exploitation, it gradually becomes a dilapidated town, and eventually a ghost town. In brief, the town is almost deserted, with only old people living there. That images in that report touched me deeply, suddenly giving me a lot of interest

in this kind of passage of time and environmental decay. Therefore, I became very interested in researching the period of change around the 1990s, a period of transition in China. At first, I started looking for some actual cases from that period, like criminal cases, or social practices, and so on. Later on, in this process, the story kept evolving bit by bit, drawing reference from a lot of elements of literary works, and some cinematic pieces, until it eventually ended as it is today. How much of your own sense of curiosity is in the story? I am very interested in this type of subject. Back in 2013, I had neither experience nor resources in the film industry, so I particularly wanted to express what interested me.

慢慢的我就去寻找，在那个时候发生的一些真实的案例，有的是一些刑事案件啊，有的是一些社会实践啊，等等。那后来，在这个过程当中，这个故事就一点点的演化，然后借鉴了一些文学作品，借鉴了一些电影作品，后来就变成了今天的这个摸样。故事反映出你多大的好奇心？我对这类的题材是非常感兴趣的，因为在 2013 年的时候，我在电影行业并没有经验，也没有资源，所以我特别希望把我自己感兴趣的东西给表达出来。那么，其实我对于时间流逝，包括中国在整个大的环境，大的时代变迁的这样一种时代背景下，人的关系和人的命运，就会产生一种极大的求知的热情。所以我希望在第一部作品里，能够把这些东西都表达出来，能够去探寻出一种被掩盖的真相。

所以就慢慢的一点点去寻找一些社会线索或者故事素材等等，最后能够把这个故事做出来。天气，特别是潮湿的天气，似乎在你的故事中扮演重要角色，这部湿冷的“黑色电影”，其氛围如何成为影片电影语言的一部分？当有了这个故事的最初的故事线索之后呢，我就开始考虑如何去把文字的东西转化成电影影像的东西。那么这个转化，我觉得也是作为导演非常重要的工作的一个必要步骤。我希望它在电影影像上能够区别于我所看到的其他的国产片。我希望它是一种极致的一种影像。我希望它是一个能够清晰的传递和表达出这部电影内在气质的这样一种电影影像。那后来，我和我的制片人去到了南方，然后看到了我们的拍摄地 ,衡阳的外部条件

I actually had a great curiosity for the passage of time, including human relationships and destiny against a wider background, when China was experiencing seismic transformations. So I wished in my first work, to express all these things and search for the hidden truth. And gradually, bit by bit, I looked for social clues or story materials, until I was able to get the story. Weather, particularly wet weather, appears to play a big part in your story, and how does this wet ‘film noir’ look work as part of the story’s film language? Equipped with the initial story clues, I began to think about how to turn the material into something more cinematic. This transformation, I think, is also a necessary step in a director’s work process. 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 17

Essential INTERVIEW

之后呢，我觉得那个地方对我来说是非常有意思的。后来在看景的过程中，也了解了当地冬天的一些氛围，我觉得这是我这部电影非常重要的外部的一个时间点，他有助于电影影像的传达。你为什么把电影故事的背景地点选设于湖南中部的衡阳市？这部电影可以任何城市为背景或在任何城市拍摄吗？最早呢这个片子，我脑海当中想象的是放在中国的西北，但在西北那边是一个比较干旱的环境。但是当时并没有考虑的特别的清楚，那个时候剧本也是处在只有大纲的程度。那么后来呢我认识了我的制片人之后呢，他建议我回他的衡阳老家去看一下。因为他对于这个项目非常的有兴趣，然后我就跟他一起去了衡阳。衡阳是他成长的地方，所以他对那里非常的了解。他带着我第一次去看景的时候，他给我讲述了很多关于衡阳冬天的一些氛围和发生的一些事情。那我觉得他所描述的冬天的那个衡阳，和我这部片子的内在气质非常的吻合，有一种非常阴郁和压抑的东西在里边。所以当时我记得我在第一次看景的时候，我就非常的确定我就要在这里拍。我希望能够拍出一种阴雨连绵、人心焦虑的那种感觉。所以当时我就跟他商量，我们就在这个地方拍。因为它无论是在这个大厂的外部环境、整个工业的衰败的一些形象还有就是冬季非常湿冷的这个条件，都和这部片子有非常大的关联。你是否在电影中特别强调，从 1997 年到 2008 年，中国经历了一个时代的开始和另一个时代的结束？其实我自己本人对于历史的节点，一直是非常有兴趣。因为历史的节点往往影响了很多的东西，影响了整个社会的发展，甚至影响了每一个生活在那个时代、那个社会的人的生存状态、他们的命运。所以在我这部片子当中，我就是有意识的将两个我认为比较重要的时间节点，作为这个片子前后的一个时间点。也就是说中国的 90 年代，在我看来，其实从社会的一种气质上来看，并不是像结束在 2000 年，而更像是结束在 1997 年。那 1997 年前后就是有着非常大的不同，那同样 2008 年也是这样的一个情况。 2008 年之前的中国的社会形态，整个的人的生活状态，和 2008 年之后也有着非常大的不同。所以我希望能够把这两个非常有代表性的时间节点，然后串起这个故事。你认为澳门有可能成为你其中一部电影的背景地？我这是第二次来澳门，我非常喜欢这个地方，因为这个地方给我感觉就是文化非常 18 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

I hoped that in terms of cinematic image, it could be different from other domestic films I had seen. I hoped it would be a kind of ultimate cinematic image, one that could clearly convey and express the inner truth of this movie. Later on, after I went to South China with my producer and visited Hengyang, our filming location, I realized that the place was very interesting. Later while looking for locations, I also learned more about the atmosphere of the local winter, which became an important ambient element for my movie, helping to convey the cinematic imagery. Why did you choose to set the location for story in the city of Hengyang in central Hunan Province? Could the film have been set or filmed in any city? Firstly, my idea was to set it in Northwest China, in an arid environment. But at the time that was not a mature consideration and the script was by then just an outline. Afterwards, after I got to know my producer, he suggested that I visited his hometown Hengyang for a look. As he was very interested in this project, I went with him to Hengyang. He grew up in Hengyang, so he knows the place well. When we first went looking for our location, he told me a lot about the atmosphere of Hengyang in winter and about some of the things that happened there. Then I thought his Hengyang in winter was very consistent with the inner temperament of my film: both with something very dark and depressing hidden inside. I remember, therefore, when I did the first location scouting, I was very sure that I would shoot here. I hoped to be able to bring out a feeling of continuous rain compounding human anxiety. So I consulted with him at the time about filming there. Because of external environment surrounding the big factory location, images of abandoned industries, as well as the very wet, cold winter conditions – all these are closely associated with this film. Are you making an underlying commentary in the film about the end of one era in China and the beginning of another, from 1997 to 2008? In fact, I have always been very interested in particular timelines in history. Because they often impact a lot, on the development of the entire society, and even on

the living conditions and destiny of each person living in that era. So in this film, I intentionally took two points in time that I thought important as a reference points, respectively in the first and last part of the film. In other words, for me China’s 1990’s, if gauged by social ethos, did not end in 2000, but rather in 1997. There was a vast difference before and after 1997, and that’s also the case for 2008. In China the social composition and the entire living conditions before and after 2008 were also very different. So I hoped to use these two very representative points in time to link up the story. Do you see any potential for using any Macau locations as a setting for one of your films? This is my second time in Macao. I like this place very much, it has a feeling of cultural diversity. It's a multicultural city. Therefore, I really like this kind of environment, where different cultural styles, and diverse customs co-exist. This type of city brings together many interesting people and things. As for filming here, I haven't thought about it yet. Maybe in the near future, if the opportunity arises, I would like to capture particularly interesting stories in such a culturally diverse place. What’s your opinion on the current level of development in China’s film industry? Chinese investors have been betting big on Hollywood and now there is more pressure on investing in homegrown product – but the demand for foreign content is still there. Is part of the industry trying to be too commercial? Is the Chinese film industry growing in the right direction? In fact, I am not qualified to talk about the Chinese film industry and its development since I am a new talent after all. In truth, I have just started in the field and I am still going up the learning curve. From my personal viewpoint, just speaking from my own creative experience and growth, I believe that it is developing in a particularly good direction. Because, for new filmmakers, I think China's current cinema market provides them opportunities for full expression and exploration in the industry. As for the quota of Hollywood movies that you just mentioned, I believe this may be a global film industry issue. I believe that each country has to tackle its own issue of how to exchange or communicate with the narrative of Hollywood movies.

的多元。所以我非常喜欢这种一座城市里边有不同文化的风格，不同的这种风土人情的这样一种环境。这种城市就意味着有很多的有趣的人和事。至于拍电影，我现在还没有想，也许将来如果有缘分的话，我希望在这样一个多元的氛围里，能够捕捉到特别有意思的故事。你对中国电影业目前的发展水平有何看法？中国投资者一直偏爱好莱坞，而现在他们面对投资本土作品的更大压力——但对外国电影的需求依然存在。电影业中有些东西是否变得太商业化了？中国电影业正朝着正确的方向发展吗？其实我个人并没有资格谈论中国电影工业的问题、中国电影发展方向的问题。因为我个人毕竟是一个新人么，其实我自己也是刚刚进入到这个行业，也是在学习和观察的过程当中。对于我自己来说呢，从我自己的创作和成长的过程当中，我个人认为是向着一个特别好的方向发展。因为对于新的电影人，我觉得中国现在的电影市场为他们提供机会，让我们有机会在这个行业里去充分的表达、去探索。至于刚刚提到的关于好莱坞电影的问题，我相信这可能是一个全球性的电影问题，我相信每一个国家都有关于如何与好莱坞电影的叙述相交流，或者是沟通的这样一种情况吧。我相信在中国的电影行业里，同样存在这样一个问题，就是如何把发生在我们这个土地上的故事，和好莱坞的叙述能够 20 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

非常有机的结合起来，那我觉得这是一个非常长期的过程。你想留在中国拍华语电影吗？或是有兴趣打破国界尝试拍摄一切有趣的故事？其实我是特别希望能够在别的文化领域里去拍电影，去拍外语片。因为我觉得就是在这个文化的跨越里，一定能够找到让创作者特别兴奋的东西。但是呢，实际上关于故事也好，还是电影也好，有很多非常相通的东西，人的情感的东西都是相通的，但是不同地区和文化又有着不同的理解方式。我觉得，这样一种结合的方式，能够为创作者提供更多的想象力的空间。所以我希望如果有机会的话，我可以尝试去拍一些外语片、英文片，但前提是我得好好的练一下英文才可以。你认为自己会拍摄更多的凶杀悬疑片，还是有吸引你的另一片种？对，我个人是特别喜欢这一类题材，无论老片也好，还是新的片子也好，在这个题材领域里边创作出非常成功作品的电影人，他们的作品我都非常的喜欢。因为我觉得在这个题材里边，能够经常有机会让创作者去挖掘在日常当中无法触及的黑暗边缘的东西，我觉得这是非常让人着迷的现象。我们在现实当中，对于有一些问题的想象只能停留在一个想象的层面。但是在处理这样的题材里边，我觉得可以展开想象去探索更多的可能性和真相吧。

I believe that in China's film industry, we have to cope with the same issue, that is, how to organically combine the stories happening on our land with the (movie) narrative of Hollywood. I think that will take long time. Would you like to stay in China making Chinese films or is filmmaking a language that you can easily take with you abroad, to transcend international boundaries? In truth, I especially aspire to make films – foreign language films – in another culture. Because I think there's something very exciting for a creative type to work while transcending cultures. However, in fact, there are many things in common about the story or the movie regardless of cultural differences. People have empathy, but different regions and cultures have different ways of understanding. I think that with a culture-blending approach, creators have more room for imagination. Therefore I wish to have the opportunity to try, hands on, making some foreign language films including English movies, but to do that I must, first of all, practice my English. Do you see yourself making more murder mysteries or is there another genre that you are attracted to? Yes, I particularly like this genre. Whether old or recent, new works, including those

Essential INTERVIEW

你的电影生涯发展可喜 - 从担任摄影指导到现在成为一名有建树的电影导演，但我知道你是从北京电影学院毕业的。你觉得在北影的学习对你的职业生涯有重大影响吗？北京电影学院是一个内地学电影比较好的地方，也是唯一一个专业学电影的大学。这个地方给我提供了一个非常好的基础教育，但实际上拍电影，光凭借基础教育是不够的。所以实际上电影学院对于我最大的帮助是，我到那个地方学习了之后，我才知道我到底要做什么，什么是我真正的兴趣所在，我的潜力在什么地方。那这个实际上对我来说是非常有意义的，虽然这个过程其实是非常漫长的，大概有 10 年的时间，我才真正的找到我自己的发展之路。那不管怎样，我还是非常感谢北京电影学院这样的一所学校。如果你没有上过北影，你能否取得同样的成功？这个很难说，犹如人的命运一样，假设往往是没有办法去预判的。我也不知道我当初如果是走了另外一条路的话，我今天会是一种什么样的状态，一种什么样的理解，一种什么样的觉悟，什么样的眼光，实际上我都很难以去判断。 쐽

created by very successful filmmakers in the genre, I like it very much. Because I feel that within this genre, filmmakers often have the opportunity to dig the darker side, inaccessible in everyday life, and which are very fascinating aspects to me. In reality, our imagination for some issues is mere imagination.

But when dealing cinematically with such topics, I feel that one can be free to explore more possibilities and truths. Your film career has evolved – from working as a Director of Photography, to now firmly establishing your name as a Film Director, but I understand you began as a graduate of the Beijing Film Academy. Did you find that experience made a big difference in your career？ The Beijing Film Academy is the best place for studying film in the mainland, and is the only university specializing in the tertiary education for film production. This place has provided me with a very good basic training, but in fact for filmmaking a basic training is not enough. That said the film school’s actual biggest help for me was that only after studying there I got to find out what I really wanted to do, what my real interest was, and where my potential lay. That was actually very meaningful to me. But it was quite a long process: I took about 10 years to really find my career development path. Still, I am very grateful to a school like the Beijing Film Academy. Could you have achieved the same level of success if you hadn’t attended the Film Academy? It is hard to tell, just like fate. There is no way to predict an assumption. I really don’t know if I would have taken another path, then where I would be today, what kind of understanding, enlightenment and vision I would have. In truth it's difficult for me to guess. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 21

Essential EXHIBITION

伟大画作 The painting great 卢浮宫呈献历史性的德拉克罗瓦回顾展 The Louvre presents the historical exhibition of Eugène Delacroix 文/by EDWINA LIU

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拉克罗瓦（Eugène Delacroix,1798-1863）是法国伟大画家之一，目前在巴黎卢浮宫博物馆举行的德拉克罗瓦回顾展正展出其全部作品约 180 幅（大多数为绘画），向其艺术生涯致敬。德拉克罗瓦于 1822 年在巴黎沙龙的展出开启职业生涯，创作持续至 1863 年去世为止，跨越 40 载。 22 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

e was one of the greats of French painting, and now his entire body of work is shown in a retrospective at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Around 180 artworks by Eugène Delacroix, most of them paintings, pay homage to his career as an artist, from the beginning, at the Paris Salon in 1822, until his death in 1863.

Essential EXHIBITION

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 23

Essential EXHIBITION

本次展览由卢浮宫和纽约大都会艺术博物馆联合举办，旨在呈现画家在这四十年中的创作历程，不仅展现德拉克罗瓦最为人熟知的一面，也呈示其最不为人知的一面。从他最具代表性的作品，如《自由引导人民》、《但丁之舟》和《南希之战》，到他最鲜为人知的作品，包括鲜花和乡村风景主题的色彩斑斓油画，或宗教味浓的绘画，展览都一一展示，而且还呈现德拉克罗瓦的写作天分，展示艺术家的日记、信件、评论和散文的一些选段。该展览由 Sébastien Allard 和 Côme Fabre 策展，在卢浮宫博物馆的展期直至 7 月 23 日，其后将移师纽约大都会艺术博物馆。法国巴黎卢浮宫卢浮宫博物馆

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The exhibition stems from a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York, and aims to reflect an overview of the painter over those four decades, revealing not only Delacroix’s best known side, but also the least known. From his most iconic works, such as Liberty Leading the People, The Barque of Dante and The Battle of Nancy, to his least popular pieces, examples of which are the colourful canvasses with flowers and country landscapes, or the paintings of a more religious character, the exhibition also addresses Delacroix the writer, displaying some passages from the artist’s diaries, letters, reviews and essays. Curated by Sébastien Allard and Côme Fabre, the exhibit runs until July 23 at the Louvre Museum, before making its way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Musée du Louvre Place du Louvre, Paris | France 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 25

Essential FASHION

风雨过后见彩虹 After the storm comes the Rainbow 与澳门毗邻的横琴岛近年来一直在突飞猛进的发展。在横琴岛的中心位置，澳门彩虹集团将建设一个奢侈商品综合设施 — — 彩虹生活广场。《精华》杂志对话澳门时尚产业的传奇人物、彩虹集团总裁萧婉仪，听她回忆自己攀上时尚之巅的奇妙旅程 Macau’s neighbouring island Hengqin has been growing by leaps and bounds. At the heart of this treasure island, Macau-based luxury fashion brand retailer Rainbow Group is to build Rainbow Life Plaza, a luxury goods complex. Essential Macau talks to Macau fashion industry legend Terry Sio to retrace her amazing journey to the pinnacle of fashion 文/by EDWINA LIU

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次采访在萧婉仪的时尚帝国的核心地带进行，办公室的每个细节，包括墙上的画作、家具和装饰都由她亲自挑选，让人很难想象这名能干的女強人曾经仅以 5,000 元澳门币起家，並将自己的生意发展成如今的规模。

帝国崛起

萧婉仪女士大约 40 年前开始在时尚界创业，“我的生活从来就没有一帆风顺过。刚创业时我面对重重困难，直到今天我还是亲力亲为做自己的分内事，”她说道。刚开始，萧女士从朋友那里借到了几千块钱，开了一间小店，出售日本进口服装。生意很成功，但人们很快就开始抄袭她的概 26 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

念，由于同行低价揽客的行为，萧女士的生意受到打击。为了走出困境，萧女士将目光投向高端领域，因此她开始销售欧洲品牌。附带说一下，那时候的澳门人根本对时装不感兴趣，更不要说欧洲品牌了。当时，萧女士不仅做销售，还进行文化传播。 “当时，销售欧洲品牌的时装相当困难。我要投入大量的精力告诉人们这些产品的优势。我的朋友们开始喜欢我穿的衣服，因此开始从我这里买产品，并向自己的朋友推荐我的产品，”萧女士说。巧合的是，她听说奢侈服装品牌 Hugo Boss 正在寻找合作伙伴，帮助他们打开澳门市场，于是她飞往德国去与品牌负责人会面。

he interview was conducted in the centre of Ms. Sio’s empire, with every detail in the office well appointed by her, including the paintings, furniture and decorations – making it really hard to imagine how this able woman used only MOP5,000 to grow her business to the proportions it is today.

RISE OF AN EMPIRE “My life has never been plain sailing. I struggled when I started my business and I do my jobs by myself until today,” says Terry Sio, who started her fashion business nearly 40 years ago.

Essential FASHION

“我能够成功的其中一个最重要因素就是不要想太多。如果我顾虑自己会亏损多少，奋斗过程会怎样的艰难，我永远都不踏不出创业这一步，”她坦露说。“说服它们（奢侈品牌）进入澳门市场非常困难。一开始，没人想见我。他们甚至问 ’澳门在哪里？ ’但我并没有放弃。我每天都去他们的办公室，他们最终被我打动了。” 自那时起，她的时尚帝国 — — 彩虹集团 ——开始步入正轨，走向光明的未来。但当澳门政府不再发出博彩专营权时，另一个挑战出现了，由美资博企开发的第一个博彩投资项目引入后，各奢侈品牌在澳门设立特许经营店，但他们希望自营这些店铺。英明如她，很清楚不能把所有鸡蛋都放在一个篮子里，她开始琢磨在中国大陆二线城市开设店铺。 “如我所言，我的一生中遇到了很多困难。我们就像是品牌的临时保姆——当孩子（品牌）长大后，我们就该放手。这很自然。” 她说。“当时，我对大陆市场一无所知；我也没想太多，因为抓住每个机遇是我生命中的另一个重要信条。” 如今，彩虹集团在中国 23 个城市设有 100 多间店铺，销售超过 20 个国际奢侈品牌。正如品牌名称一样，无论遇到多大的困难，风雨过后总会见到彩虹。

回馈业界

当萧女士的时尚帝国稳固后，她就开始考虑如何回馈澳门和时尚产业。 “我觉得自己跟时装的感情是命中注定的，”她揣度道。“自从我开了第一间服装

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In the beginning, she borrowed a few thousand from friends to start up her small shop selling imported Japanese clothes. The business was quite a success but people quickly copied her concept, with Sio’s business taking a hit from the low-balling competition. To get out of the woods, Sio set her sights on a higher level area, thus she started to sell European brands. At a time, it might be added, when Macau people did not care about fashion, let alone European brands. At that time, Ms. Sio not only oversaw sales but was a disseminator of culture. “It was quite difficult to sell European products at that time. I needed to pay much attention to telling people the advantage of these products. My friends were finally attracted by what I wore, so they bought from me and recommend my products to their [other] friends,” said Sio. Coincidentally, she noticed that luxury fashion house Hugo Boss was looking for a partner to help them open up in Macau, so she flew to Germany to meet the brand guardians face to face. “Don’t think too much is one of the most important keys to my success. If I had thought of how much I would lose, how difficult it would be, I would never have started my business,” she confides. “It was very, very difficult to bring them in. At first, nobody wanted to meet me. They even asked ‘Where is Macau?’ But I didn’t give up. I visited

their offices every day and they were finally struck by me.” Since then, her fashion empire - Rainbow Group - got on the right track and was on its way to its bright future. But another challenge arose when the city tendered gaming concessions and the first ever gaming investment project developed by an American company facilitated the opening of luxury brand franchises in Macau and wanted to operate the business on their own. This wise woman knew well enough never to put all of her eggs in one basket and started to mull the opening of stores in second-tier cities in Mainland China. “As I said, I’ve met many difficulties in my life. We are like the babysitter of the brands when the baby grows up we should let it go. It’s natural.” she said. “At that time, I was also new to the Mainland China market; I didn’t think too much because catching every opportunity is another important belief in my life.” Today, the Rainbow Group retails more than 20 international luxury brands via over 100 stores in 23 cities in China. As the name of the group suggests, no matter how much difficulty it encounters, after the storm comes the rainbow.

GIVING BACK TO THE INDUSTRY Once her fashion empire had taken root Ms. Sio began to think about how to give back to the city and the industry.

Essential FASHION

店以来，后来发生的事都和时装有关。我还帮忙编纂了一本时装教科书。” 为了能够为时尚业培训更多人才，2005 年，萧女士和澳门理工学院合作创立了彩虹学院，定期举办品牌及零售专业培训证书课程。此外，她还很关注本地青年设计师的发展：“如今，澳门政府大力支持本地设计师。我也在尽全力帮助他们；比如说，我邀请他们在我的多品牌店出售他们设计的产品。”

憧憬未来

回到本文开头，彩虹集团刚刚宣布了要在横琴拓展版图的计划，“说实话，横琴的发展日新月异：我也不能预测未来。因此我要不断旅游考察，不断获得新灵感，适应潮流发展的趋势。” 橫琴商场希望能够引进时尚创意品牌，期待在丰富品牌组合时，提升顾客参与度，提升顾客体验和感官刺激，专注于开拓非传统的购物体验，为广东市民和游客带来一股休闲娱乐生活新风潮。“为了给人们提供更多时尚选择，我仍需接洽更多品牌，说服他们积极参与（该项目）。” 쐽

“I think my love affair with fashion is fate,” she conjectures. “Since opening the first shop selling clothes, the upcoming thing was all related to fashion. I also helped to compile a teaching textbook of fashion.” In order to train more talented people for the fashion industry, Ms. Sio founded the Rainbow Academy in 2005, collaborating with Macao Polytechnic Institute to create a Brand and Retail Professional Training Certificate Course. In addition, she also cares about young local designers, saying: “Nowadays in Macau the government gives much support to local designers. I also try my best to help them; for example, I invite them to sell their products in our multi-brand store.”

LOOKING FORWARD TO THE FUTURE Back to the beginning, the Rainbow Group has just announced its intention to expand its territory to Hengqin, conceding, “To be honest, the situation in Hengqin is everchanging: I also can’t predict its future. So that’s why I need to keep travelling, to get some new inspirations to adapt the trend.” The Hengqin project is expected to introduce fashionable and creative brands. While enriching the brand mix, it is expected to enhance customer participation, experience and sensation, and focuses on opening up nontraditional retail experiences, bringing a new wave of life and leisure buzz to Guangdong citizens and tourists. “To provide more lifestyle options,” she said, “I still need to talk with more brands and convince them to participate.” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 29

Essential COUTURIER

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Essential COUTURIER

极乐岛 Elysium 著名中国高定时装设计师郭培将在美狮美高梅开设自己的首间澳门定制会馆。现在让我们率先预览她的 2018 春夏高定系列风采！ Remarkable Chinese couturier Guo Pei will open her first Macau store in MGM Cotai. Time to warm up with her Spring/Summer 2018 Couture collection 文/by EDWINA LIU

015年，流行歌坛巨星蕾哈娜（ Rihanna）身着中国风金色礼服出席了 Met Gala，抢尽风头又霸气十足。这件由中国高定设计师郭培设计的迷人礼服，也成为了设计师事业生涯的重大转折点。 2016年，她获邀成为高级时装界权威

n 2015, pop singer Rihanna unexpectedly, and dramatically, wore a grand Chinese style gold gown to attend the Met Gala. This amazing gown - made by Chinese couturier Guo Pei - was also a major turning point in the Chinese designer’s career. In the following year she was 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 31

Essential COUTURIER

机构 — — 高级定制和时尚联合会（Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture）会员，自此，她开始在巴黎高定时装周这个国际最高设计的舞台上展示自己的作品。 1997 年，郭培推出了自己的品牌。她擅长将传统中国手工艺发挥到极致，同时融入当代创意和西方风格。她的作品总是彰显华贵风范和卓绝工艺。在巴黎郭培 2018 春夏高级定制系列发布秀场，郭培再次以奢华迷人的作品让观众叹为观止。童话、传奇故事甚至军事历史都是郭培的灵感源泉，在该系列中，她将观众带到了极乐岛上，岛屿上充满了欢乐与生命，白色的生命之根蜿蜒盘旋漂浮在空中，象征着生命的真正意义。郭培采用了蓝色、白色及自己最喜欢的金色为主色调，描绘出旭日驱散晨雾的景象。曼妙的花朵也是本系列中繁复出现的元素。奢华的服装面料上采用了精美的刺绣、手工装饰的天然宝石和水晶，设计师完美呈现了如梦如幻的极乐岛。为了强调“生命”主题，郭培运用了许多自然材料，系列中一件颇令人瞩目的礼服是用产自中国黄山的竹条编织而成的。参与制作的编织艺人都拥有超过 30 年的经验。形状独特的竹子短裙饰以金色花朵装饰，将郭培对手工艺巧夺天工的追求提升到完美的极致。쐽

invited to be a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the chief governing body of the high fashion industry, enabling her to show on the Paris Haute Couture Week calendar. Guo Pei launched her own label in 1997. Excelling at using the finest of traditional Chinese craftsmanship while incorporating contemporary innovation and Western style, she is always about glamour and craftsmanship. On the runway show of Guo Pei Spring/Summer 2018 Couture collection in Paris this talented woman once again amazed audiences with her glittery, luxurious designs. Fairytales, legends and even military history are inevitably the source of inspiration for Guo, and in this collection she transports audiences to the Elysium, an island of joy and life where

white winding tree roots float in the sky expressing the true meaning of life. The designer uses blue, white and her favourite gold to draw a picture of the sun and the morning mist. Flowers, too, are a recurring element of this collection. Using luxurious fabrics combined with gorgeous embroidery, hand-decorated with dazzling natural gemstones and crystals, the designer perfectly showcases a dreamlike wonderland. To enhance the theme of ‘Life,’ Guo employs many natural materials, with the highlight of the collection a woven piece with bamboo from Huangshan, China made by craftsmen with more than 30 years’ experience. This uniquely shaped skirt is decorated with golden flowers perfectly elevating Guo’s pursuit of handicraft excellence to the sublime. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 33

Essential EYEWEAR

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Essential EYEWEAR

性格之王 The facial expression Jacques Marie Mage（J.M.M.）是一个眼镜品牌，虽然成立只短短四年，却是个糅合风格、传统和独特性的不可多得品牌 Jacques Marie Mage is an eyewear brand that, despite being just four years old, combines style, tradition and exclusivity like few others 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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过去的几年里，眼镜品牌极速增多。这种增量体现于两个方面：一方面是主宰市场的大型集团，其旗下集聚无数品牌，其中包括紧贴最新流行趋势大规模地设计和生产的大牌；另一方面，无数的小型独立品牌竭尽所能地充分利用顾客的接纳度深挖市场潜力。小型独立品牌中包括了买少见少的历史性品牌，以及比别人更渴望寻找商机的大量公司。处于两者之间的是一些更罕有的品牌，它们发布更具卓识的作品，无论从审美的角度，从产品的质量承诺，以及对参与制作工匠的珍视等角度来看。 Jacques Marie Mage（J.M.M.）便是这样的一个品牌。它没有数十年的悠长历史；事实上，它在四年前才诞生于加利福尼亚州洛杉矶，那里的历史相对重要，阳光也充足。品牌的创始人是法国人杰罗姆（Jerome Jacques Marie Mage)。杰罗姆 20 岁时移居美西海岸，从此一直生活在那里。他是一位在眼镜领域拥有丰富经验的产品设计师，经过多年为各大品牌工作后，他决定独力创建自己的品牌。丰富创意、优秀质量和独特不凡是 J.M.M.的三大特色，其目标受群是见多识广的客户，他们对知道自己想要什么了然于胸。解码：人人爱说的独特性已经成为市场推广的陈词滥调，但在 J.M.M.，独特乃建立在品牌定义的微量生产和限量版的基础上，此外它还有一个专门项目部门负责统筹与其他品牌和设计师的合作。在眼镜迷看来，这使得品牌出品的眼镜成为了真正的收藏级作品。

n the last few years, there has been a truly extraordinary proliferation of eyewear brands. This expansion has two fronts: on one side, the large conglomerates that dominate the market, gathering an endless number of brands, among which are the big labels that design and produce pieces on a large scale following the latest fashion trends, and on the other side, a myriad small independent brands that make the most of the market’s receptiveness whichever way they can. Among the latter are a diminishing number of historical references, and a large number of companies in search of a business opportunity like any other. Somewhere the middle lies a more restrict group that presents more discerning work, from both an aesthetic point of view and for the commitment it has to the quality of its pieces and in valuing the craftsmen involved in the production. Jacques Marie Mage is one of those brands. It doesn’t have decades of history; in fact, it was born just four years ago in Los Angeles, California, where the past has relative importance, but the sunshine has plenty. Its founder is Jerome Jacques Marie Mage, a Frenchman who moved to the West Coast of the US when he was 20 and has lived there ever since. A product designer with vast experience in the field, after many years working for the big market names, he decided to set up on his own. 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 35

Essential EYEWEAR

质量源于使用优质材料——醋酸纤维和金属脚套，如钛、动物角和木质材质等。由于杰罗姆积累了丰富的经验和专业知识，材料务必由日本和意大利眼镜界的最出色工匠负责处理，他们以包含非凡工艺的精致细节和完饰精心打造 J.M.M.眼镜。杰罗姆以非常个人化的审美，创作出个性化和自信满满的作品，它们无疑将会受到喜爱自己做主的客户追捧。他创造的华丽外观自多方面汲取灵感，风格体现出民间摇滚与美西阳光下热炽的广袤大地以及 1950 年代和 1960 年代的装饰艺术设计和欧洲电影的交融，受来自流行文化、文学和电影世界的魅力人物启发，如民谣教父鲍勃·迪伦、意大利电影导演帕索里尼（Pier Paolo Pasolini）、《逍遥骑士》男主丹尼斯 ·霍珀（ Dennis Hopper）及美国离经叛道的伟大偶像之一、作家亨特·汤普森（Hunter S. Thompson），等等。这些灵感之源被重新诠释为独特的作品，它们凭耀眼光芒和精致的构造而瞩目。 J.M.M.目前有三个系列。Circa 包括更经典的作品（如果我们可以这样称之），其大部分灵感来源于杰罗姆多年来积累的镜框收藏，材质多为醋酸纤维结合钛合金、黄金或铜合金脚套，或者仅仅是钛，例如亨特·汤普森 Hunter S. Thompson 飞行员系列。顾名思义， Vanguard 系列汇集了大胆的项目，将不同材质与野性大胆的外观融于一体。最后，Optical 系列则包含更传统的单品，更适合日常佩戴。 36 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Originality, quality and exclusivity are the three main vectors of Jacques Marie Mage, whose target is an informed customer who knows exactly what they want. Decoding: the much-talked about exclusivity, which has become a marketing cliché, is founded here on what the brand defines as micro-productions and limited editions, along with a department of special projects that undertakes collaborations with other houses and designers. This, in the eyes of eyewear-lovers, makes them true collector’s pieces. Quality is based on the use of excellent materials – acetate and metallic temple tips, such as titanium, horn and wood. Thanks to Jerome’s accumulated experience and knowhow, the materials are handled by the best artisans in the field, in Japan and Italy, who bestow Jacques Marie Mage pieces with details and finishes of unusual craftsmanship. With a very personal sense of aesthetic, Jerome creates pieces that are a declaration of individuality and affirmation, which will doubtfully be very popular with those who lean towards discretion. His flamboyant look is developed around inspiration where folk rock merges with the sun-bathed vastness of Western America, Art Deco design and European cinema from the ‘50s and ‘60s, through

charismatic figures from popular culture, literature and film, such as Bob Dylan, the provocative Italian filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini, Easy Rider actor Dennis Hopper, and the writer Hunter S. Thompson, one of the great icons of the American rebel style. These are reinterpreted in distinct pieces that stand out for their radiance and refinement of construction. There are currently three Jacques Marie Mage collections. Circa comprises the more classic pieces – if we can call them that –, inspired in large part by the enormous collection of frames that Jerome has amassed over the years and which heavily features acetate, combined with titanium, gold or bronze temple tips, or just titanium, such as the case of the H.S. Thompson aviators. Vanguard, as the name suggests, brings together the bolder projects where the materials blend with audacious forms. Finally, Optical features the more conventional pieces that are more suitable for regular wear. The brand also showcases special projects founded on various collaborations developed in partnership. Such is the case of the creations with actress Kate Bosworth and her husband Michael Polish, the director known for films such as Big Sur, who is also responsible for the collection Son of a Gun. The characteristic aviators from Hunter S. Thompson are revisited

Essential EYEWEAR

J.M.M.还推出以合作方式透过不同合作项目开发的特殊项目系列。品牌与女演员凯特 ·波茨沃斯（Kate Bosworth）及其导演老公麦克·鲍力施（Michael Polish）合作的作品便属此列；鲍力施以执导《大瑟尔》（Big Sur）等电影而闻名，他也是品牌 Son of a Gun 系列的设计者。经典的 Hunter S. Thompson 特色飞行员太阳镜在 Gonzo 系列中被重新演绎，限量 250 副，而与加州同行、时尚品牌 Co Collections 合作开发的 Liane-Co 建筑灵感镜框，旨在彰显两个品牌对其基地加州的现代主义建筑潮流的热情。丹尼斯·霍珀是 20 世纪美国电影界名人翘楚，他因扮演边缘人物角色而闻名于世。J.M.M.也以霍珀名义推出了致敬其生活和安葬地 The Taos 的系列。该系列乃与霍珀女儿、设计师 Hopper Goods 联合开发，灵感来源于名片《逍遥骑士》中的 Thespian 所戴墨镜。系列作品在日本以纯手工制作，采用 10MM 醋酸纤维素镜片，充分考验镜框的结构，而镜架上的金属零件采用了黄金或纯银制作。除了眼镜之外，从与其他配饰保持连贯性的角度出发，Jacques Marie Mage 还开发了一系列眼镜清洁布，采用 250 克双面超细纤维制成，由 Matt McCormick，Andy Dixon 和 Jean- Michel Texier 等艺术家设计图样花式。这些眼镜清洁布置于优雅的勃艮第木质镜盒里，随 200 副的限量版系列附送，这使得该系列更形同精致的收藏品，完美体现离开祖国法国转战阳光加州的品牌创始人、设计主脑杰罗姆创意强横和独特不凡的创作精髓。쐽

in the Gonzo collection, limited to 250 pieces, while the architectural Liane-Co frames, developed with fellow Californians Co Collections, aim to enhance the passion of both brands for the modernist architectural current of their home state. Dennis Hopper, a leading name in 20th-century American film, famous for his roles where he incarnates marginal figures, has a collection dedicated to The Taos, the name of the place where the actor lived and where he is buried. Developed with Hopper Goods, it is inspired by the glasses that the thespian wore in the famous film Easy Rider. They were made entirely by hand in Japan, with 10mm cellulose acetate, a testament to

the structure of these frames, with gold or silver ironwork. Besides the eyewear, and from a perspective that promises to have continuity with other accessories, Jacques Marie Mage has developed a series of eyewear cleaning cloths, in 250g double-sided micro-fibre, illustrated by the artists Matt McCormick, Andy Dixon and Jean-Michel Texier. Presented in an elegant burgundy wooden box, they are part of a limited edition of just 200 pieces, making them refined collection pieces that do justice to the imposing and distinctive creations of this Frenchman, who swapped France for sunny California. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 37

运筹帷幄 Clear vision 全新马自达 CX-5 印证了品牌未来 The new CX-5 is proof that Mazda has a very clear idea about how to design the brand’s future 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

在

汽车行业被迫另觅新路的时代，不同的品牌会选择不同的路线。谁做出了最好的决定，将来自有分晓。在这一过渡期，马自达推迟实施其他品牌看来是唯一可行的解决方案：采用混合动力推进系统。为什么？因为正如该日本品牌所言，他们知道该下注在什么地方，因为就内燃机而言有待探索的空间还很大。新一代的 Skyactiv-X 引擎将于 2019 年推出，它代表着过去二十年内燃机技术上的最大飞跃。马自达成功研发出其他许多品牌尝试过，但在试验过程中失败了的技术。从根本上说， Skyactiv-X 引擎将具有高压缩率，因此效率更高，性能更佳。某程度上说，这是通往未来之匙。

38 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

马自达强劲的技术开发实力与令人赞叹的美学设计改进相依相随，这从日益吸引人的产品目录可见一斑，最新的 MX-5 和同系列的小型 SUV 车 CX-3 的成功也证明了这点。全新 CX-5 是品牌产品目录上的最新车型。六年内售出第一代 150 万辆后，新款马自达自然更胜一筹。是好多了！和谐的比例，灵感洋溢的细节和非常诱人的线条，让这款车成为当今最诱人的 SUV 之一。车的大小恰到好处，刚好可以提供一个家庭所需的一切空间，却无尺寸浮夸之嫌，以至于影响了城市日常用车的便利度。驾驶 CX-5 给人无与伦比的体验，汽车表现出令人惊讶的质素，从速比精确的 5 速手动变速箱，到卓越的驾乘质量，这些都要归

t a time in which the car industry has been forced to re-invent itself, it’s only natural that different brands will opt for different routes. The future will tell who took the best decisions. Mazda has delayed what others seem to have as the only possible solution in this period of transition: the adoption of hybrid propulsion systems. Why? Because, as the Japanese brand says, there is still a lot to explore in terms of the internal combustion engine, as long as you know where to place your bet. The new generation of Skyactiv-X motors, which will arrive in 2019, represent the biggest technological step in internal combustion

Essential CAR

功于其先进的悬架几何结构和 2.2L、最大功率 150 匹马力的卓绝柴油发动机，这可是欧洲市场的畅销机型。动力方面，这款 SUV 强调 SUV 车特有的运动性能，所以将 CX-5 开出车库总是件赏心乐事，无论是出于世俗需要，还是只为享受其中的驾驶乐趣。归功于出色的安装和空间配置及简单的操控，乘客车厢非常引人注目。CX-5 的一切都很合理。在新一代 Skyactiv-X 到来之前，马自达已经处于行业的前沿。品牌前景一片光明。 쐽

engines in the past two decades. Mazda managed to implement a technology which many brands had already tried out but had failed in the process. Fundamentally, the Skyactiv- X motors will have a high compression rate, making them more efficient and leading to better performance. In one way or another, this is the key for the future. The technological prowess Mazda has developed has been accompanied by a fantastic aesthetic evolution, based on a catalogue of products

that are increasingly more appealing, as was proven by the success of the most recent MX-5 and the smaller SUV of the range, the CX-3. The new CX-5 is the brand’s catalogue latest addition. After having sold 1.5 million units of the first generation during a period of six years, the new Mazda is even better. Much better. Harmonious proportions, inspired details and very, very seductive lines that make this one of the most inviting SUVs today. With the right size to offer all the space a family needs, it doesn’t exaggerate in its dimensions to the point of hindering its daily use in the city. Everything in the experience of driving the CX-5 transpires a sensation of surprising quality, from the precision of the 5-speed manual gearbox, to the excellent ride quality thanks to its advanced suspension geometry and the fabulous diesel motor of 2.2 litres and 150 horsepower, the European market’s best seller. Dynamically, this is an SUV that emphasises the sporty characteristics of these kind of vehicles, so it is always a pleasure to take the CX-5 out of the garage, be it for mundane reasons or simply to enjoy its driving experience. The passenger compartment stands out due to its great installation, its space and the simplicity of its controls. Everything in the CX-5 makes sense. Before the arrival of the new generation Skyactiv-X, the Mazda is already in the forefront of the industry. The future can only smile to it. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 39

Essential CAR

红色激情澎湃 Red passion 无论汽车产业如何发展，法拉利永远都是法拉利。宛如梦境在眼前成真！ However much the car industry reinvents itself, a Ferrari will always be a Ferrari. This is dreaming with your eyes wide open 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

全

新法拉利（Ferrari）Portofino 搭载的发动机输出功率高达 600 马力，可谓法拉利品牌里同级的最佳选择。当然，此款车型为不同的买家设计；该车型可乘坐四人，拥有可折叠硬顶敞篷，前置 V8 涡轮引擎，而非中置引擎；的确，这款法拉利可以用作日常驾驶。但法拉利终究是法拉利。 40 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

这一点无可质疑。600 匹马力意味着百公里加速仅需 3.5 秒，最高时速可达 320 公里 /小时。为了帮助经验略少的客户驾驭此澎湃性能，Portofino 在辅助驾驶技术方面投入更多心思，对底盘、悬挂、加速装置、转向及引擎系统都做了不同的调整。汽车内饰采用华丽大气的皮革和铝材，令人叹为

观止，融合了品牌在跑车制造方面的所有超卓经验，充满了意式奢华风情。法拉利 Portofino 是 California T 的继任车型，流畅线条更为优雅迷人，充满法拉利专属的澎湃激情。全新 Portofino 的每一个细节，都代表着全球各地千万车迷梦寐以求的跑车理想。法拉利 Portofino——让风在发间飞舞！ 쐽

Essential CAR

ix-hundred: this is the horsepower of the new Ferrari Portofino, the gateway into the world of the Cavallino Rampante brand. Yes, this is a Ferrari for a different target buyer; yes, this is a Ferrari for four people that has a retractable hard top and a V8 turbo engine at the front and not in the middle; yes, this is a Ferrari made to be driven every day. But this Ferrari is still a Ferrari. A very serious one at that. The 600hp means 0100km/h in 3.5 seconds and a top speed of over 320km/h. To help the less experienced tame such performance, the Portofino is steeped in driving assistance technology, with different adjustments available for the chassis, suspension, accelerator, steering and engine response. The leather and aluminium interior is stunning, incorporating everything the brand knows about sporty cars with a touch of Italian luxury. A replacement of the California T, Ferrari has made the Portofino an even more appealing and proportional object, which awakens the type of passion that only a Ferrari can awaken. Top down, wind in your hair, the new Portofino is the embodiment of the dream car of thousands of people the world over. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 41

Essential WATCHES

永远向前 Constantly on the move 伯爵 Piaget 为其 Possession 系列增添新款腕表，新产品线条简约，采用了新穎的材质 Piaget adds new watches to the Possession collection, with minimalist lines and surprising materials 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

作

为 1990 年代初推出的标志性的 Possession 系列的一部分，伯爵 Piaget 全新女士腕表系列具有多项特色，独特而诱人。Possession 旋转圆环经重新演绎，双圈旋转圆环在表盘上优雅旋转，这些全新表款提供了多种搭配组合，非常灵巧多变，可根据不同场合配搭。表壳直径在 29 至 34 毫米之间，有白金或玫瑰金款式（有些镶有明亮型切割钻石），或精钢材质供选择。精钢款式首次出现于系列中，增强了新系列的极简主义风格。表盘选用了银质，或各种色彩鲜艳的宝石材质，如孔雀石，红玛瑙，绿松石和青金石。即使是鳄鱼皮表带也具有鲜艳活力的多种色彩。（隐藏式）表带可互换，按下背后的小按钮便可轻松更换。每款金质 Possession 腕表都配备两条表带，让您可根据场合或心情轻松配衬。此系列还提供一款奢华表款，玫瑰金表壳上镶嵌 162 颗明亮式切割钻石，配玫瑰金表链和绿孔雀石表盘。系列流露优雅、年轻的设计风格，所有款式都采用伯爵 Piaget 56P 石英机芯。 쐽 42 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

art of the iconic Possession collection, launched in the early ‘90s, the new line of ladies’ watches from Piaget presents a series of characteristics that make it unique and appealing. The result of the reinvention of the turning Possession rings, featuring two bands that rotate on the dial, these models offer a multiplicity of combinations, making them extremely versatile and adaptable to any occasion. The case, varying between 29 and 34mm in diameter, is available in white or rose gold, in some versions set with brilliant-cut diamonds, or in stainless steel, a début in this collection that reinforces the more minimalist side of the new line. The dial is available in silver or in a variety of colourful ornamental stones, such as malachite, carnelian, turquoise and lapis-lazuli. Even the alligator skin straps present a diversity of vibrant colours. Interchangeable, they can be easily replaced by pressing a small button at the back. Each gold Possession model comes with two straps, making it easier to adapt a single watch to different moments or moods. This line also offers a premium version with rose gold case, 162 brilliant-cut diamonds, a rose gold bracelet and a green malachite dial. Following an elegant and young design, all the models are powered by the Piaget 56P quartz movement. 쐽

Essential WATCHES

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 43

Essential WATCHES

源自沙夫豪森的非凡技术和精湛工艺 Probus Scafusia 在庆贺来自诞的创始人周年之际，瑞士传奇制表品牌 IWC 万国表深缅与感谢来自美国的品牌创始人佛罗伦汀 · 阿里奥斯托 · 琼斯。IWC 万国表的诞生要感谢 19 世纪中叶瑞士优质、低廉的劳动力，而这个诞生在莱茵河畔的制表品牌能够拥有如此悠久的历史则与其一直追求高品质标准密不可分 As it celebrates its 150th anniversary, the legendary International Watch Company continues to owe its essence to its unlikely founder, the American Florentine Ariosto Jones. Despite owing its origins to the availability and affordability of Swiss labour in the mid-19thcentury, the longevity of IWC cannot be dissociated from the high quality standards that have always guided the manufacturer on the banks of the Rhine 文/by CARLOS TORRES

对

于 IWC 万国表的创始人和第一任老板，人们知之甚少。1841 年，佛罗伦汀 ·阿里奥斯托·琼斯（Florentine Ariosto Jones）出生于新罕布什尔州的 Rumney。他的家谱可以追溯到五月花号（Mayflower）。这艘船于 1620 年载着第一批清教徒抵达美国建立了新 44 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

英格兰殖民地。由于没有存世的琼斯的照片，有关他的唯一描述是在一份 1907 年的记录上： 171.5 公分，97.5 公斤，蓝眼睛，棕色头发。作为补鞋匠的儿子，佛罗伦汀·阿里奥斯托·琼斯最终得以踏入制表界，是受两位在康科德从事制表工作的叔祖父的影响。因此

ittle is known today about the founder and the first owner of the Swiss watchmaker IWC, the acronym of the International Watch Company. Born in 1841 in Rumney, New Hampshire, Florentine Ariosto Jones belonged to a family whose roots can be traced back to

Essential WATHES

46 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WATCHES

渊源，他获得了制表业的第一份工作，任职于已经工业化的 E. Howard Watch & Clock Co.公司，该公司位于位于马萨诸塞州罗克斯伯里。后来他又曾与波士顿制表商 G.P. Reed 合作。美国内战开始后，正是在波士顿，琼斯于 1861 年 7 月 2 日应招加入了独立堡垒（Fort Independence）的武装部队，后来又加入第 13 马萨诸塞志愿步兵团，并随兵团参与了 1863 年 7 月的葛底斯堡战役及其他战役。大约是在 1865 年美国内战结束要结束时，佛罗伦汀·阿里奥斯托·琼斯脑海中萌生了在瑞士建立制表厂的想法。他希望这间制表厂以美国制表业最高水平为标准，以行业巨头如华生（Waltham）、爱尔艮（Elgin）和汉密尔顿（Hamilton）为榜样。成立 IWC 万国表的想法萌生于作坊式手工生产的转型时期。从工业角度来看，机器最早诞生于 18 世纪，首批机器用于棉纺织行业。但说到制表领域，来自瑞士 Bienne 的天才钟表匠皮埃尔 ·弗雷德里克 ·安戈尔德（Pierre Frédéric Ingold），是察觉需要通过工业化批量生产可替换元件来取代家庭手工作坊生产的先锋人士之一，并因此赫赫有名。安戈尔德发明了各种机器用来刻印、切割、钻孔，并大规模生产钟表的各种元件。安戈尔德先后在巴黎和伦敦尝试了一连串的机械表制作并失败后，在 1845 年移居美国。当时他已经 58 岁了。有关他初抵美国后的经历我们知之甚少，但 1877 年，著名的丹麦制表商儒勒斯·约尔根森（Jules Jurgensen）曾提到，大西洋对岸制作钟表的机器和工具大多都是安戈尔德发明的，1852 年开业的第一批制表厂也都在使用他发明的机器。琼斯选择在瑞士联邦建立工厂的原因很大程度上在于其优秀的产品品质和极其廉价

the Mayflower, the ship that transported the first puritan pilgrims who founded the colony of New England in 1620. With no known photograph of Jones, the only description of him dates back to 1907, which registers 171.5cm, 97.5kg, blue eyes and brown hair. The son of a cobbler, F.A. Jones’s calling in watchmaking was the result of the influence of two great-uncles who worked in the field in Concord. It opened the doors to his first job in the industrialised E. Howard Watch & Clock Co. in Roxbury, Massachusetts, followed by a collaboration with the watchmaker G.P. Reed in Boston. It was precisely in Boston that, on July 2, 1861, after the start of the American Civil War, Jones enlisted in the armed forces in Fort Independence, later becoming part of the 13th Regiment Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry that, among other battles, was present at Gettysburg in July 1863. It was probably at the end of the Civil War, in 1865, that the idea of a watch manufacturer in Switzerland started to sprout in the head of Florentine Ariosto Jones. It was to be a project that would follow the example of the highest American industry standards of giants such as Waltham, Elgin and Hamilton. The idea to found IWC emerged at a time of transformation in craft production. The birth of the machine, from an industrial point of view, dates back to the 18th century, when the first samples were used in cotton weaving. But in the field of watchmaking, it was Pierre Frédéric Ingold, an ingenious watchmaker from Bienne, who gained prominence as one of the first to identify the need to replace handcrafting from home (known as establissage) to make watches through the industrial mass production of inter-

changeable components. Ingold created machine models to stamp, cut, drill and mass produce the most diverse components of a watch. After a series of failed trials in mechanical watch production in Paris and London, Ingold emigrated to America in 1845. He was 58 at the time. Little is known about his time in the New World, but in 1877, the famous Danish watchmaker Jules Jurgensen noted that most machines and tools used on the other side of the Atlantic to make watches were invented by Ingold, and the machines used in the first watch factories that opened in 1852 were his. Jones’s choice to establish an industrial unit in the Swiss Confederation was largely down to the availability of quality and extremely cheap labour. It was a situation that contrasted with the post-war reality of the American market, which the future factory was conceived to supply and which would allow a high level of competitiveness for IWC. However, there was one obstacle that the founder hoped would shift soon and which was tied to the high import rights for the US, implemented by law in 1864. The protectionist measure was at the base of the American customs system and, unfortunately for Florentine Ariosto Jones, would draw out over the following decades. After a few unsuccessful contacts in Geneva, it was in Schaffhausen that Jones found the essential requisites for the launch of an industrial enterprise of this kind. The existence of a hydroelectric plant in the Rhine, built by Johann Heinrich Moser (watchmaker and industrial pioneer), powered the machines at the future IWC factory. Nevertheless, the idea to produce 10,000 watches a year left investors and industrialists in the Swiss commune sceptical, even when Jones presented them with the development’s plans. At that time, a production capacity of this 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 47

Essential WATCHES

的劳动力。这一状况与战后的美国市场形成鲜明对比，琼斯的目标是在瑞士为美国市场制造钟表，令 IWC 万国表在美国市场拥有较高的竞争力。然而，有一个障碍是琼斯希望尽快可以改变的，那就是根据 1864 年出台的法律，美国实施高关税。美国海关系统建基于贸易保护主义措施之上，对琼斯而言，在以后的几十年间都不幸受制于它。琼斯在日内瓦几次尝试建厂失败后，在沙夫豪森找到了理想的建厂条件。Johann Heinrich Moser （制表企业家和实业先驱）在瑞士莱茵河地区建造的水力发电厂确保了即将成立的 IWC 万国表工厂的机器能够运行。然而， IWC 万国表年产量 10,000 枚的想法，让瑞士业界投资者和实业家们非常怀疑，即使琼斯向他们展示自己详细的发展计划也不能让他们信服，因为这种规模的产能在当时的瑞士可谓史无前例。此外，琼斯还倡导机器的杰出性能，用直径 1/10 毫米的多轴自动车床进行高精度自动车削、自动冲压和自动铣削链轮。这与 16 年前安戈尔德发明的模拟生产方法相同，琼斯对他的想法绝对了然于心。 48 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

dimension was completely unprecedented in Switzerland. In addition to that, Jones announced exceptional performances for the machines, describing automatically turning pivots with a diameter of 1/10 of a millimetre, and stamping and milling sprockets. These were the same analogue production methods introduced 16 years before by Ingold and whose ideas Jones was certainly aware of. Finally, in Schaffhausen in 1868, Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the International Watch Co. (international because the factory was located in this Swiss commune and the sales offices were in New York), kicking off a saga whose highs and lows, always associated to external economic causes and realities, are today an intrinsic part of the watchmaker’s history. Over the course of a century and a half, the IWC production included movements and models that are part of the watchmaking evolution in terms of both aesthetics and technology. From the first movements for pocket watches, such as the Jones Calibre, followed by the Seeland Calibre, IWC successively corroborated its watchmaking creativity through a high number of patents aimed at improving the most diverse systems in a

Essential WATCHES

最后，1868 年，佛罗伦汀·阿里奥斯托· 琼斯在沙夫豪森创立了万国钟表公司（International Watch Co.，用 international 万国为名是因为工厂位于瑞士，而销售处设在纽约），品牌起伏跌宕的传奇故事就此展开，但其发展兴衰和外在的经济和现实状况密不可分，这些也都融入了 IWC 万国表的历史中。在过去一个半世纪里，IWC 万国表的产品包括了众多无论是在美学还是技术层面都体现着制表业日新月异发展的机芯和表款。从第一批怀表机芯，如 Calibre Jones 怀表，到其后的 Calibre Seeland 机芯。致力于改善最为复杂多元的机械表系统，IWC 万国表透过大量的专利发明成功证实了自己源源不断的制表创意，在精准性、坚固性和易操作性方面尤其突出。 1884 年推出的 Pallweber IWC 机芯尤其值得一提，其超凡的机械性能令其出类拔萃，即使在当今依旧是表迷和收藏家们最尊崇的机芯之一。该机芯解决了采用机械机芯并同时以数字显示小时和分钟的难题。1936 年，在腕表不单单因为是种时尚之物，还因其实用性而受到追捧的年代，IWC 万国表推出了 Ref. IW436 腕表，这款飞行员专用腕表如今还是品牌其中一个大获成功的腕表系列的灵感来源。 1939 年纪录下了 IWC 万国表历史上最具代表性的时刻之一，来自葡萄牙的两名进口商订购了不同寻常的腕表，其精确度不逊于海军计时仪。在当时，这款腕表当属大型

mechanical watch, with a special emphasis on precision, robustness and ease of handling. One movement in particular, the Pallweber IWC, presented in 1884, is still one of the most recognised by aficionados and collectors for the brilliance of the mechanical solutions it comprises, which were conceived to solve the issues associated to a pocket watch with a mechanical movement, but integrating digital hour and minute display. At a time when the wristwatch was gaining traction, not only as a trendy product but also as a practical object, IWC launched the Ref. IW436 in 1936, a pilot watch that is still the inspiration behind a hugely successful watch line. The year 1939 marked one of the most iconic moments for IWC, when two Portuguese merchants ordered unusual wristwatches, whose precision should resemble a marine chronometer. The result was a large model for that era, and whose unusual 41.5mm diameter would forever associate the name of the model with the Portuguese nationality of the two merchants, Rodrigues and Teixeira. Even today, the Portugieser line still benefits from great success among IWC admirers. After that, in 1950, came the launch of the calibre 85, the first automatic movement whose conception was down to Albert Pellaton and which would be part of the first samples of the 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 49

Essential WATCHES

腕表，直径达到 41.5 毫米，这款腕表自此和这两位葡萄牙商人 Rodrigues 和 Teixeira 的名字息息相关。即使到了今天，葡萄牙系列腕表依旧深受 IWC 万国表表迷们爱戴。 1950 年，IWC 万国表推出了 calibre 85 机芯，这是其首款全自动机芯，研发者是阿尔伯特 ·比勒顿（Albert Pellaton），此款腕表成为品牌 Ingenieur 工程师系列首批表款之一。 1967 年， Aquatimer 海洋计时腕表面世。1980 年，品牌与保时捷设计合作推出了全球首款钛金属表壳腕表，同时也是一款包含了万年历功能的非比寻常的计时腕表。1985 年，制表大师库尔特·克劳斯（Kurt Klaus）设计出第一枚 Da Vinci 达文西系列万年历计时腕表。最后，品牌在 2002 年推出了 Big Pilot 大型飞行员腕表，名副其实，表壳直径达 46 毫米。如今，该款腕表依然是最成功的航空灵感腕表之一。 IWC 万国表已经习惯每年重推一个自己历史上的不同系列，2018 年又正值 150 周年庆，品牌怎会忽略自己光辉历史上的著名表款！ IWC 万国表在日内瓦举行的国际高级钟表展（SIHH）上，推出了 Jubilee Collection 系列，共有 27 枚限量版腕表，分别来自 Portugieser 葡萄牙系列、Portofino 柏涛菲诺 50 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

系列、Pilot 飞行员系列和 Da Vinci 达文西系列，还首次推出了 Pallweber 致敬波威柏系列。如今，很少有公司敢完整、忠实地讲述自己的品牌故事，因为通常情况下，企业的大事年表上往往只记录其发展过程中的辉煌时刻，厚着脸皮避免提及那些可能有损企业形象的事件。声名卓著的国际钟表百年品牌 IWC 万国表（International Watch Company）的大事年表上则记录品牌的成功和与失败。尽管品牌不曾公开宣扬这些失败，但正是这些事件使品牌更真实，也同时持续提升品牌长久以来享有的、建基于卓越声望和品质的正面形象。值得铭记的是，IWC 万国表是瑞士西北部唯一的制表商，也是 19 世纪同业内唯一一家由美国人在瑞士创立的表厂。自 1903 年以来， IWC 万国表以拉丁语词组 “Probus Scafusia”命名自己的产品，其中，Probus 意思是 “优质 ”或 “自豪的腕表 ”，“Scafusia”意指沙夫豪森。“Probus Scafusia”（源自沙夫豪森的非凡技术和精湛工艺）是 IWC 万国表品牌市场营销的重要组成，也反映出品牌对其高品质产品的自豪感。在 IWC 万国表创始人去世 102 年后的今天，佛罗伦汀·阿里奥斯托·琼斯定会认可，此名称正是品牌的完美写照。 쐽

Ingenieur line. The Aquatimer followed in 1967, along with the partnership with Porsche Design in 1980, which led to the first wristwatch with a titanium case, and the extraordinary chronograph with perpetual calendar, the Da Vinci, launched 1985 and which would forever be tied to the name of master watchmaker Kurt Klaus. Finally, the Big Pilot, whose name reflects the 46mm diameter of its case, was presented to the public in 2002. Today, it remains one of the most accomplished watches inspired by aviation. Already with the habit of renewing a different line from its collection each year, the 150th anniversary of the Swiss manufacturer in 2018 couldn’t exclude any of its historical models. At the annual presentation, which takes place every January at the SIHH in Geneva, IWC decided to present the Jubilee Collection, comprising 27 limited editions whose models comprise the Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot and Da Vinci lines and, for the first time, includes a rightful tribute to the Pallweber model. Few companies today would dare tell their story exactly as it happened, because usually the timelines tend to only mark the moments

Essential WATCHES

Master Watchmaker Kurt Klaus

of success, unabashedly eliminating references to events that could smear an exemplary corporate image. The chronology of the venerable and prestigious IWC marks both the successful and not so successful moments. Although these incidents aren’t openly publicised by the brand, they only add substance to the name and reinforce the image of prestige and quality to which it has always been tied. It is worth recalling that IWC is still the only watch manufacturer in north-western Switzerland, and the only factory of its kind founded in the country during the 19th century by an American. Since 1903, the watchmaker has associated its watches to a designation that comes from Latin: “Probus Scafusia”. These two words can be translated as either “good quality” or “the honest watch” and have been part of the brand ever since, not only for marketing purposes, but also as an expression of genuine pride in a quality product. One hundred and two years after the death of Florentine Ariosto Jones, there is no doubt that he would agree that the designation fits it like a glove. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 51

Essential JEWELLERY

极致典雅 Sublime elegance 自 2007 年以来，萧邦一直以卓尔不凡的珠宝系列，以炫目光芒为戛纳电影节添彩 Chopard has helped the Cannes Film Festival glitter more brightly with a very special jewellery collection since 2007 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

萧

邦和戛纳电影节有着悠久的合作关系。1998 年起的 20 年来，该瑞士著名珠宝品牌一直是戛纳电影节的正式合作伙伴，闻名遐迩的金棕榈奖杯便是由萧邦所属工坊打造。 2007 年，萧邦决定推出首个 Red Carpet 系列，以在电影节扩大品牌影响力。从那时起，每年电影节萧邦都会推出全新的 Red Carpet 系列。 5 月 8 日至 19 日举行的第 71 届戛纳电影节上，萧邦联合总裁兼创意总监舍费尔（Caroline Scheufele）从她的环球旅行和所到 52 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

hopard and the Cannes Film Festival have enjoyed a long relationship. For 20 years, the Swiss jewellery brand has been the official partner and creator of the event’s award, the famous Palme d’Or. In 2007, the prestigious brand decided to deepen its stamp on the festival through the launch of the first Red Carpet Collection, and since then, it has presented a new edition every year. For the 71st Festival de Cannes, which took place between 8-19 May, the co-president and

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 53

Essential JEWELLERY

目的地的万事万物——建筑、艺术、文学与电影——汲取灵感。由细节触发创意而制成的 71 件高级珠宝作品（数字“71”正好回应第 71 届戛纳电影节），是对女性气质和优雅的顶礼颂赞。这个系列的瞩目作品之一，是镶有 17 颗珍贵祖母绿和钻石的铂金项链，灵感完全源自大自然。该珠宝套装还包括镶嵌两颗祖母绿、两颗梨形切割钻石和两颗圆形切割钻石的耳环。受远东文化启发，系列中的白金和钛金属项链饰以坦桑石、粉红色和黄色蓝宝石以及钻石。电影《伟大的盖茨比》也是此系列的灵感之源。18K 白金项链，缀以白钻 “ 蕾丝 ”，项链下摆垂落着棕色钻石串成的珠帘，闪烁灵动，极致体现菲茨杰拉德（Francis Scott Fitzgerald）这著名原著的纸醉金迷。 쐽

creative director of the maison, Caroline Scheufele, drew inspiration from her world travels and all the details of each destination, from architecture to art, literature to film. The result translates into 71 pieces (the same number as the edition of the event), which are a true anthem to elegance and femininity. One of the star pieces of this collection, and entirely inspired by nature, is the platinum necklace adorned with 17 rare emeralds and complemented by diamonds. The set also includes earrings comprising two emeralds, two pear-cut diamonds and two round diamonds. Under the influence of the Far East, the white gold and titanium choker comprises tanzanites, pink and yellow sapphires, and diamonds. “The Great Gatsby” is also a source of inspiration for this collection. The choker necklace in 18kt white gold, white diamond ‘lacework’ and a cascade of brown diamonds is a reference to the famous novel by Francis Scott Fitzgerald. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 55

亚洲时尚力量崛起 Asian Fashion Power

亚洲时装的影响力日益壮大，如今正在国际时装界开辟道路。本期《精华》杂志对话亚洲地区的先锋设计师 Asian fashion power is now blazing a trail in the international fashion industry. Essential Macau talks to some of the region’s pioneering designers 文/by EDWINA LIU

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Essential FASHION

Stephane Dou and Changle Yugin

台湾双骄

台湾品牌 Douchanglee 可谓亚洲时装界的先驱。品牌创立于 1995 年，是台湾设计师窦腾璜与张李玉菁以自己名字命名的品牌。他们都曾在台湾实践大学学习设计，他们透露说：“在校期间我们合作了许多项目，然后渐渐发现彼此相互信任和理解。” 其实，他们二人的风格十分迥异，但他们很重视这些差异。1995 年，他们得到机会成立了自己的品牌并推出了首个系列，深受大众好评。两位设计师的理念就是做自己热爱的事情。“当今世代难以用单一语汇一概而论。我们希望呈现生活的多样形态，因为生活总是充满了对立与融合。我们喜欢将不同的风格混合在一起，”他们解释说。 Douchanglee 在最近的上海时装周上推出了品牌 2018 秋冬季系列，系列呈现了品牌服装容易搭配的特点。虽然没有运用大胆浓郁的色彩，但系列造型却非常出众。打破常规的着装方式是系列最大的亮点。例如，走秀模特们只穿着毛衣或外套的一个袖子。 “我们希望打破规则和界限，”两位设计师表示。“因此我们把容易搭配的服装进行重组，在永不过时的款式中加入一些流行的元素。例如，用运动外套搭配柔美的连衣裙。” 2018 秋冬系列以生物学中的嵌合体（Chimera）为灵感，舍弃一切繁杂装饰，运用了大量的结构剪裁，轻盈与厚重布料的搭配呈现出有趣的对比。 “我们想加强人与服装的联系。希望他们透过重组服装打造自己独有的风格。” 秀台上模特们穿的白色平底鞋来自意大利百年品牌 Superga,“很开心能与 Superga 合作。他们的鞋子让时装秀增添了一分随性的时髦态度。” 宝腾璜与张李玉菁为他们的 2018 秋冬系列窦打 90 分（满分 100 分），“另外 10 分，我们希望留给我们继续自我探索。”

PRIDE OF TAIWAN Douchanglee is a predecessor in Asia. The brand - founded in 1995 - is the ensemble of Taiwanese designer Stephane Dou and Changle Yugin’s self-titled brands. The duo were classmates in Shih Chien University studying fashion design, revealing: “We did many projects in school and then gradually we found that we had a kind of trust and understanding.” Actually, their styles are quite different but they very much appreciate these differences. In 1995 they got the opportunity to establish their own brand and launched their first collection, which was well received by the public.

Doing what they love is the philosophy of these designers. “Nowadays, it’s hard to conclude an era in a single word. We want to showcase the diversity of our lives. Life is always full of contrasts and compatibility. We love blending these different styles,” they explain. Recently, Douchanglee showcased their A/W 2018 at Shanghai Fashion Week, and this collection showcases the brand’s own easymatch features. There are no bold colours but the styling is outstanding. Wearing the clothes in an un-proper way is the biggest attraction of the styling. Models, for example, always wear only one sleeve of the sweaters and jacket. “We wanted to break the rules and boundaries,” say the designers. “That’s why we recombine the easy-match outfits and add some trendy elements to the timeless designs. For example, pairing a feminine dress with sporty jacket.” Inspired by Chimera, in this collection the duo rid themselves of all the cumbersome decoration, using a lot of silhouette cutting and both lightweight and thick fabrics to showcase the interesting contrasts. “We want to enhance the connection between humans and clothes. We want them to create their own look by recombining the items.” The white flat shoes models wear on the runway come from Superga, they say: “We’re very happy to collaborate with Superga. Their shoes help to add a more casual chic attitude to the show.” The duo give themselves 90 out of 100 for this collection, adding, “In the other 10 we want to leave a space for us to keep discovering.”

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Essential FASHION

中国生力军

NEW CHINESE FORCE In recent years, more and more Chinese faces have been appearing on international platforms. Gong Li, the founder of hot brand 8on8, is one of the best representatives. The dream to be a fashion designer began when Gong was in the second grade of high school, he says: “It was the first time I felt the mood in garments by Alexander McQueen; it was also the first time I felt that garments could be something else.” To perfect his skills, Gong embarked upon his journey by way of the London College of Fashion with a BA in Pattern Cutting and Fashion Design Women’s Wear plus an MA in Fashion Design Menswear from the prestigious university of Central Saint Martin. His graduate collection showcases his signature toward sharp cuts and, ultimately, tailoring as his main inspiration and pays attention to the tailored details. This collection gained great success and was immediately bought by iconic luxury department store Lane Crawford. Which is why Gong Li set up his own label 8on8. In 2017, this talented young designer won the Scholarship of LVMH Grand Prix in the Design section.

近年来，越来越多的中国面孔出现在国际时装平台上。人气男装品牌 8on8 的创始人龚力就是代表之一。龚力的设计师梦想在他上高二时开始萌发，他说：“透过亚历山大·麦昆的服装，我第一次有了（当设计师的）这个想法；也是我第一次感到服装可以不一样。” 为了完善自己的技能，龚力开始了服装设计的学习生涯，他在伦敦时装学院取得了打版和女装时装设计学士学位，并在著名的中央圣马丁学院取得了男装时装设计硕士学位。他的毕业设计系列呈现了他标志性的利落剪裁，以及裁剪工艺，既是系列灵感源泉也是向剪裁细节致敬。系列获得了巨大反响，很快就被著名的高档百货公司连卡佛买下，龚力因此成立了自己的品牌 8on8。 2017 年，才华横溢的他获得了 LVMH Grand Prix 设计类奖学金。干净利落的剪裁是龚力遵循的设计理念，因此他的男装品牌 8on8 注重糅合传统西装剪裁风格和日常着装的舒适性。品牌服装既强调功能性，也从当地户外生活方式中汲取灵感，尽可能减少对身体的束缚。8on8 最大的特点是在西装中融入运动装元素和功能性细节，不断朝真正当代风格的方向推进。

Photographer credit：Jim Wong

Gong Li

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Photographer credit：Jia Cheng 嘉成

Essential FASHION

8on8 2018 秋冬系列灵感来自英国摄影师 Martin Parr 的怀旧影集：拍摄于上世纪 90 年代，聚焦旅游团的胶片照片系列，系列记录当时跟团游客各自独特的着装方式。透过这一系列的造型，我们不难发现龚力以脑海中童年记忆的色调，构思未来的绅士形象。乍看上去，我们还以为模特们的衣服是从自己父亲的衣橱里偷来的，但现代与传统的碰撞一直都是龚力时装设计中最有兴味的部分。很明显，他在传统男装花色上搭配了小比例的亮色；增强了服装整体的现代感。 “由深绿色和白色弹力针织面料及纯羊毛格子面料制成的冬季外套是本系列的亮点作品，”龚力表示。他把大部分精力放在西装设计上，不断受到爱德华时代的服装的启发，但选择将比例、面料和色彩进行夸张化处理。肩部在定制款上适度放宽增量，打造时髦廓形的同时亦不落俗套，为西服带来丝丝惊喜。

Keeping clean and sharp is the philosophy of Gong Li thus his 8ON8 brand is a menswear brand that has a crossover between traditional tailoring and everyday clothing styles at its core. The brand’s pieces aim to be functional and take inspiration from contemporary outdoor lifestyles, restricting the body as little as possible. The biggest feature of 8on8 is its mixing of suits with sportswear elements and functional details, continuing the brand’s progression towards the creation of a truly contemporary style. 8on8 Autumn/Winter 2018 is inspired by Martin Parr’s nostalgic photography: a series of film photographs portraying tourist groups from the 90s which records their singular ways of dressing. Through the looks of this collection we can discover the shades of Gong’s childhood foreseeing the future gentleman in his mind. At first

glance, we may think that the models had stolen all the garments from their dad’s wardrobe but theclash of modern and tradition is always the most interesting part of Gong’s designs. He clearly uses bright colours in small proportions, pairing them with the traditional hues of tailoring; the garments are shaped into full modernity. “A winter jacket made of the dark green and white power jersey fabric and the 100% brown check wool fabric is the highlight of this season,” Gong declares. He pays most of his attention to suits, continuing to be inspired by Edwardian type suiting although chooses to exaggerate proportions, fabrics and colours. The shoulders are moderately relaxed in the tailored pieces, injecting a stylistic attitude to the garments whilst adding a hint of drama. 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 59

Essential FASHION

个性女孩

街头时装品牌 Thisnorthat（也布是）由两个女孩子创立——来自中国的林育波和来自马来西亚的陈丽珍。有意思的是，她们两个人和大多数时装设计师不同，她们年幼时的梦想并不是成为设计师。 “我不知道自己是从什么时候开始想要成为设计师的；说实话，我并不觉得自己是时装设计师。我认为自己只是在探索服装的结构，为时装/服装如何成为一种诠释个性、风格甚至文化的形式而深深着迷，”陈丽珍说。林育波在大学时学的是平面设计。“当我上平面设计研究生课程时，我在上海还参加了一个时装设计的夏季课程班。我一直想要出国留学，然后我父母把这个问题提上日程。两个星期内，我成功申请到了米兰马兰欧尼学校时装设计专业一年的强化课程。就这样，我听到了命运的召唤，”林育波她表示。她们在米兰相遇可谓命中注定。 “我们彼此互相吸引，也是自然而然发生的，我们只是顺其自然。真是好幸运，”林育波说，二人毕业后就携手创立了品牌 Thisnorthat。 “我们之前并没有任何计划。（创立品牌）是意外之举，或者说是一时兴起而为；但我们是非常认真的。后来，我跟波波去了上海，想着就是去那里两个星期，度度假而已。到了上海，一切发生得好快，接下来我就发现我们已经在创作第六个系列了，”陈丽珍边说边笑道。尽管街头潮牌如雨后春笋般兴起， Thisnorthat 在理念和设计方面都别具一格，分外出众。品牌象征着不同的可能性，没有束缚、没有标签、没有规则也不分性别。每个时装季，品牌都希望透过设计来映射当今时代严肃的社会问题。在 2018 秋冬系列中， Thisnorthat 延续 2018 春夏系列的 “Stop, Slow Down”的主题，阐释城市生活带给人心烦意乱的迷茫与失落。在秀场上，我们依旧可以看到品牌古灵精怪和有趣好玩的 DNA。系列中大胆的色彩洋溢着青春的热情，设计师们兢兢业业的付出，在作品细节中可见一斑。秋冬季，品牌继续使用大量的松紧带、腰带、可拆卸袋子/ 腰带以及可灵活穿用的风帽细节，表达出穿着者在探索人生旅途时的复杂感觉。手套也频频出现在这一系列中，表明设计师的灵感受到交警启发。对林育波而言，最理想的方式就是加入一点意外的元素重新演绎设计，使作品更有趣。除了想要打造独特的视觉效果外，品牌也希望可以传达更深层次的信息。 “至于轮廓，”他们表示， “我们对比了松垮的和结构性造型。是为了展现探索者在旅途中经历的不同思想状态。当探索者对未来感到不安和厌倦时，服装的轮廓是松散的，但当他感觉紧张焦虑时，服装就用到了夸张的肩部结构。” 60 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Yu Bo and Li Chen

COOL GIRLS Thisnorthat is a cool streetwear brand founded by two girls - Yu Bo from China and Li Chen from Malaysia. What is interesting is that neither are like most other designers in that they were not goal-oriented to be fashion designers in their early years. “I don’t know exactly when I wanted to become a fashion designer; I don't feel like one to be honest. I feel like I’m just an individual who explores the construction of clothing and is fascinated by how fashion/clothing has become a form that defines one’s personality, style and even culture,” explains Li Chen. Meanwhile, Yu Bo studied graphic design whilst in college. “Whilst doing my Master’s degree in graphic design I also attended a fashion design Summer course programme in Shanghai. I’ve always wanted to go overseas to study, and then my parents popped that question. Within a two week period, I successfully applied for Maragoni in Milan for a one-year intensive course in fashion design. There, I found my true calling,” says Yu Bo. It was destiny that the duo met in Milan. “The chemistry between us just came so naturally and we just let it take us to where we are today. It really was a true blessing,” says Yu Bo, and after graduating they started up their own brand. “We didn’t plan it at all. It was unexpected and rather spontaneous. However, we took it very seriously. Later, I followed Bobo back to Shanghai, thinking that it was going to be a two weeks vacation. However, everything just starts spinning from there and the next thing I knew we are already on our sixth collection,” Li Chen laughs.

Although streetwear brands spring up like mushrooms, Thisnorthat is very outstanding no matter its concept or its designs. The brand signify different possibilities that have no boundaries, no labelling, no rules and no gender. Every season, the brand wants to respond to some of the serious social problems of this era trough their designs. In Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, for example, Thisnorthat continues Stop, Slow Down’s (Spring/Summer 2018 collection) topic of talking about how city life has brought so many distractions and is often overwhelming. On the runway, we can still spot the quirky, fun DNA of the brand. The bold colours they use brim with lively, youthful enthusiasm, with the designers’ hard work evident in the details. This season, the brands continue to use a large number of adjustable strings, belts accompanied by detachable pouch/belt and flexible hood details to project the sense of an explorer who is still journeying. Gloves are also frequently shown this season, with the designers revealing that they have been inspired by the traffic police. Recreating designs with a bit of a twist and making things more interesting is always the ideal for Yu Bo. However, in addition to creating unique visuals the brands also want to convey a deeper message. “As for the silhouette,” they say, “we’ve contrasted slouchy and structural shapes. It’s to present the different state of mind the explorer experiences during the journey. When the explorer is wary and tired of the future it is presented with a slouchy silhouette and when he is tense and anxious the exaggerated structural shoulder is introduced.”

Essential FASHION 浪漫艺术家

A ROMANTIC ARTIST It was an afternoon in the venue of Jonathan Liang Autumn/ Winter 2018 show presentation in Shanghai Fashion Week. Jonathan was sitting on the ground, making the floral installations for the show on his own, and in the later interview tells us he used to learn the art of flower arrangement. Jonathan Liang, a young Malaysian designer based in France, has an impressive CV with experience at Givenchy, Air and IRO, which he couples with his creative vision in every piece created. At the time of the show, the floral installations have been but into a white box in the centre of the stage. When the lights turn on, guests are transported to Jonathan’s secret garden. The use of organic colours like green and brown can be seen throughout the show featuring a large scale of flower prints which is the signature element of the brand, embroidery, ruffles and many other feminine elements. Unlike previous collections, the designer employs these beautiful flowers to ‘grow’ in sand in the flower prints of this season, explaining: “Sand is an environment where it is difficult for

见到 Jonathan Liang 是在上海时装周 Jonathan Liang 2018 秋冬系列的秀场上。他正坐在地上，亲自整理秀场上的鲜花装置，在后来的采访中，他告诉我们自己曾学过插花艺术。年轻的马来西亚设计师 Jonathan Liang 常驻法国，曾为纪梵希、Air 和 IRO 工作过，出众的工作履历，结合他的创意愿景，在其作品中一一体现。时装秀开始时，他的插花被装在一个白色盒子中，放在秀台中央。灯光亮起时，现场宾客彷如置身于 Jonathan 的秘密花园中。运用绿色、棕色等自然色彩并点缀大量的印花图案是品牌的经典元素。刺绣、荷叶边等许多其他女性元素也贯穿系列。与以往的系列不同，Jonathan 的本季作品让这些美丽的花朵在沙子中“生长”，他解释道：“很难有东西可以在沙子上生长。但有些花朵却能在恶略环境中顽强生长。它们精美漂亮。好神奇，”他说。 Jonathan Liang 2018 秋冬系列生动演绎了植物的摇曳美态，特别是旗袍领连衣裙，精致繁杂的刺绣，色彩缤纷的荷叶边和流苏。宛如一块布满绿草、鲜花和绿植的苔藓。当模特们走动时，流苏如同风中摇曳的绿草。 Jonathan Liang

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（我是）为了启迪女性去启发其他人。如今 “ 女权主义大盛，女性的力量日益壮大，我希望能为男女平等而奋斗。但上网搜索却可以看到许多标签依旧把女性看作弱势群体。那并不是我们想要的。我希望人们能够明白，Jonathan Liang 运用了许多女性元素，如花朵、柔软的布料，坚强的女性也可以穿这样的服装。她们可以随自己的心意装扮自己。这无关于谁更强大；而是关于平等，”Jonathan 坚持说。本系列也呈现了许多不同的造型风格。女性可以按自己的想法混搭或搭配；比如说，可以用连衣裙搭配牛仔服或长袜。 “作为男性设计师，我不想告诉女性该穿什么，我想为女性设计她们想穿、愿穿的衣服，”他最后如是说。 쐽

things to grow. But there are a few flowers that can still live in this bad environment. They are so delicate and beautiful. It’s amazing,” he says. The collection lively represents swaying plants, especially a dress with cheongsam collar, complicated and exquisite embroidery, and colourful ruffles and tassels. It is like a moss covered with different grasses, flowers and plants. When the model moves the tassels resemble the grass swaying in the wind. “To inspire women to inspire others. Today’s feminism is the thing. Women are sailing to gain power, women are sailing to fight for their equality. When you search the Internet you can still see that there are many sticker marks of

feminine item equalling weakness. We don’t want that. I want people to understand the brand has very feminine things like flowers with very soft fabrics [but that] it is still for strong women. They can dress however they want. It’s not about being stronger than anyone; it’s about equal,” Liang insists. The outfits also showcase many styling opportunities. Women can mix and match with their mind; for example, by pairing a dress with jeans or stockings. “Being a male designer, I don’t want to tell people what to wear, I want to create what a woman wears, what she loves and do that for them,” he concludes. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 63

色彩缤纷 Riot of colour

摄影 PhoTogRaPhy PedRo FeRReiRa, aSSiSTed By ana viegaS and João Taínha 造型及助理 STyling xana gueRRa FoR www.PulPFaShion.PT, aSSiSTed By BeaTRiz ClemenTe 化妆 make-uP PaTRiCk van den BeRg FoR www.SkinliFe.PT 发型 haiR eRiC RiBeiRo FoR www.gRiFFehaiRSTyle.PT 模特 model Roxanne maTThee (we aRe modelS)

特别鸣谢 SPeCial ThankS To Tivoli PaláCio de SeTeaiS SinTRa hoTel (www.TivolihoTelS.Com)

衬衣 Shirt: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 短裤 Shorts: Ricardo Preto 围巾 Scarf: Malìparmi 项链 Bracelet: Maria João Bahia

比基尼泳衣 Bikini: 黛安芬 Triumph 连衣裙 Dress: 赛琳 Céline 宽边帽 Capeline: Missoni 太阳镜 Sunglasses: André Ópticas 项链 Necklace: Rosantica 手镯 Bracelets: Malìparmi 鞋履 Slides: Sacai

长衫 Kimono: Kleed 泳衣 Swimsuit: CIA Marítima 太阳镜 Sunglasses: André Ópticas

衬衣 Shirt: MSGM 裤子 Trousers: Inside

项链 Necklace: Maria João Bahia

连衣裙 Dress: Ricardo Preto 围巾 Scarf: 古琦 Gucci 项链 Necklace: Rosantica 手镯 Bracelets: Malìparmi

连衣裙 Dress: 斯特拉·麥卡特尼 Stella McCartney

风衣 Trench Coat: Ricardo Preto 比基尼泳衣 Bikini: Cos 太阳镜 Sunglasses: André Ópticas

衬衣 Shirt: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 长裤 Trousers: 古琦 Gucci 项链 Bracelets: Malìparmi 凉鞋 Sandals: 芒果 Mango

Essential TRENDS

玩转夏日 Summer moments 夏季盛行轻盈、色彩鲜艳的服装。无论短或长装，紧身抑或宽松，运动风格还是保守，摇滚或奢华风，盛夏时装充满想象力和个性，突出穿着者的独特不凡 Light and colourful clothing is the trend du jour. From short to long, tight to loose, sporty to conservative, rocker to extravagant, fashion appeals to the imagination and personalisation to enhance the uniqueness of the wearer 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

夏

Dolce & Gabanna

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季予人以完美借口去尝试更大胆、更暴露的时装。在我们挑选来作为本季时尚灵感之源的品牌中，包括了一些最近几周备受谈论、为皇室新娘梅根马克尔（Meghan Markle）设计了嫁衣的 Ralph＆ Russo 或 Erdem。姑且不谈英国皇家婚礼，由 Céline 等品牌推出的时装在给予客户的回应方面有所不同——日常服单品也可以当作办公或休闲服装穿。“这是个人的问题。我想拥有乐观心态。正是这种快乐和生命力的感觉。如果现在有什么可说的，就是让它有爱，让它快乐，”Céline 设计师 Phoebe Philo 说。从美学角度讲，舒适是这个时尚界权威品牌最关注的事情之一，他希望 Céline 女性能够籍这些受 70 和 80 年代启发的时装感受“美丽和舒适”。 “意大利品牌 Dolce＆Gabbana 杜嘉班纳也选择以“爱”为主题，因为正如品牌设计师所说，可以在“任何地方”找到爱的感觉。“我认为现在是时候让时装作出改变以触及消费者，”斯蒂芬诺·嘉班纳（Stefano Gabbana）强调说。另一个意大利品牌 Tod's 钟情于皮革，

rom the 1920s to the 1940s, from the ‘50s to the ‘70s, from the ‘80s to the 21st century – the current trend is to challenge and explore the creative capacity of the consumer. Whether it’s Italian, English or French style (ever-more diluted concepts thanks to globalisation and the need to do business), taste can be seen in the interpretation of the current trends, adjusted to each body and to the look that you want to put together. Summer is the perfect excuse for bolder, more exposed fashion. Among the brands chosen to inspire this season’s picks are some of the most talked about in recent weeks to design the dress of the new royal bride, Meghan Markle: Ralph&Russo or Erdem. British royal weddings aside, the pieces presented by labels such as Céline differ in the response they give to their clients – everyday pieces that can be office or leisurewear. “It’s personal. I wanted to be optimistic. It was just this sense of joy and life force. If there’s anything to say at the moment, let it be with love, and let it be joyful,” said the brand’s designer Phoebe Philo. Aesthetically speaking, comfort is one of the biggest concerts of this fashion authority, who wants the Céline woman to feel “beautiful and comfortable” using ideas inspired by the ‘70s and ‘80s.

Balenciaga Armani PrivĂŠ

Ralph Lauren

Christopher Kane Krizia

Ralph & Russo

Bottega Veneta

Tod's 的专长是造鞋，但它已经投资推出了一个服装系列，该系列依 “意大利风格”打造，是意式典范的体现。这个系列的灵感来自电影《天才里普利先生》（1999），影片由格温尼丝 ·帕尔特罗（Gwyneth Paltrow)、马特 ·达蒙（Matt Damon）和裘德·洛（Jude Law）主演，背景是 20 世纪 50 年代阳光明媚的意大利，该系列的设计意念正想带出这种感觉。而美国品牌 Ralph Lauren 拉夫劳伦的灵感则来自牙买加。牙买加有白色的海滩和神秘的蓝山脉，这个美丽的岛国充满生活的喜悦，大大迥异于我们当下可以感受到的这个不确定时代。新系列乃为无名女性以及名媛名流而设计，如好莱坞女星凯蒂·赫尔姆斯（ Katie Holmes）、布莱克 ·莱弗利（ Blake Lively）和美国第一夫人梅拉尼亞 ·特朗普（Melania Trump）。她们都是拉夫劳伦时装秀的前排常客。 Balenciaga 巴黎世家加发布了更前卫大胆的作品，这或许在意料之中，因为其创意总监是 Demna Gvasalia 年轻气盛，他是一位想要为这个已拥有成熟系列的品牌注入实验性创意的设计师。“我觉得我们需要进行实验，并且新系列也应该反映出我的愿景，同时保留品牌的 DNA。”Balenciaga 巴黎世家的 2018 春夏系列很有趣，大玩保守风格，结合多元美学，为传统消费者营造 “震撼 ” 感。此举乃考虑到品牌建基于传统美学，以传统款式为主，其捧场客仍然不能完全接受设计观念或概念的改变。总之：这个夏天，尽情尽兴，玩得开心！ 쐽

Céline

The ‘love’ theme was also the choice of Italian Dolce&Gabbana, a feeling that can be found “anywhere”, as the brand’s designers state. “I think now is the time for fashion to change something to reach consumers,” highlights Stefano Gabbana. Leather was the favoured material of another Italian brand, Tod’s, whose expertise are shoes but which has invested in a clothing line, which is structured and representative of the “Italian style”. The collection is inspired by the film The Talented Mr Ripley (1999), with Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon and Jude Law, which takes place in sunny Italy during the 1950s, a setting that the brand wants to emulate. In the case of Ralph Lauren, inspiration comes from Jamaica, with its white sandy beaches and mystical blue mountains, its beauty and its joie de vivre, which contrast with the uncertain times that can be felt at the moment. The collection speaks to both anony-

mous women and celebrities such as Katie Holmes, Blake Lively and Melania Trump, who are front-row regulars at the American designer’s shows. Balenciaga proposes slightly more daring and bolder pieces, perhaps to be expected considering that the creative director is the young Demna Gvasalia, a designer who wants to experiment with other approaches within a brand that has very well-established lines. “I feel like we need to experiment and that the collections should also reflect my vision, without ever disrespecting the brand’s DNA.” Balenciaga’s SS2018 collection is fun and plays with a more conservative style versus eclectic to create a dynamic of “awe” for the traditional consumer, which is still not completely receptive to the change of ideas or concepts within the brands that were founded on more traditional styles and a more conventional beauty. In short: just have fun! 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 81

Essential BEAUTY

夏日美白大挑战炎炎夏日，美白是爱美人士最大的挑战。知名日本美妆品牌澳尔滨（Albion）推出了美白组合，让您的肌肤由内至外弹性紧致、光滑细嫩、绽放光芒。优秀的护肤流程会让妆容效果事半功倍。澳尔滨 Exage White Whitening Response 活润透白净光精华液可以令肌肤从肌底透出前所未有的澄净无瑕、焕白光彩。使用柔肤水后，将精华液挤到掌心，在脸上抹开，精华液中独有的成分令肌肤饱满水润，拥有透明润泽、洁净闪耀的白皙。防晒效果持久的底霜是夏季必备单品。澳尔滨 Smartskin White Rare Base Makeup 无瑕润透裸妆粉霜除了打造完美无瑕的底妆外，还能营造出更为精致、自然的质感，再现肌肤纯净的内在之美。融合了乳霜及粉底的无瑕润透裸妆粉霜拥有 SPF40++++的防晒保护功能，是日间抵御紫外线的绝佳利器。为了避免妆容在高温下变得油腻脱妆，该产品特别采用了全新配方，以润滑光泽和透气半哑光妆容质感塑造出长久的清爽妆容。

Summer Whitening Challenge With Summer arriving, whitening is always the biggest challenge. Popular Japanese beauty brand Albion has launched a fantastic duo to help ladies make their skin bright, fine-textured and smooth from the inside out. A good skincare routine has a big impact upon what you see in the mirror. Albion Exage White Whitening Response achieves unprecedented, impeccably pure white skin from deep within. Use this serum after lotion on the palm and work into the entire face, and the unique ingredients will make the skin brim with moisture to reveal pure, crystal-clear whiteness. Long lasting, sun-proof foundation is mandatory in Summer. While providing flawless coverage Albion Smartskin White Rare Base Makeup achieves a more refined and natural finish to reproduce the pure, innate beauty of your skin. This foundation-cum-makeup has SPF40++++ which is more than enough to protect skin from daytime UV radiation. Avoiding makeup from becoming oily in high temperatures, White Rare Base uses a new formula to create a long wearing pure, cool-looking impression with a smooth sheen and an airy semi-matte finish.

圣罗兰美颜秘诀想在酷暑时节拥有全天候的完美妆容？让圣罗兰（YSL）分享独家顶级秘诀。上妆第一步要使用 Instant Moisture Glow 美颜绝密丝缎保湿底霜。无论白天黑夜，产品的瞬间熔融质地在轻触肌肤瞬间幻化水感质地，水分迅速被吸收，打造出丝缎般柔软细滑肌肤。另一个秘诀是在化妆最后使用 Top Secrets Mist 美颜绝密保湿定妆喷雾。只需轻按三下，服帖妆容立刻造就。喷雾设计让你可以随时随地轻轻一喷，就塑造出轻盈、超细腻的妆效，绝不会有多余的光亮或油腻感觉。

YSL Top Secrets Want to keep the perfect makeup all day long during the hot Summer months? Let YSL tell you their top secrets. The first step is using Instant Moisture Glow before the foundation. It can adapt intuitively to the skin’s needs – whatever the time, day or night – with its melting texture fusing with the fabric of the skin, leaving it satin soft to the touch. Another secret is using Top Secrets Mist as the final step. Just three pumps is all it takes to get your makeup fix. Made to be misted anytime, anywhere, the design of the diffuser allows for an ultra-fine, lightweight application that never causes shine or greasiness.

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Essential BEAUTY

迪奥毒药女孩夏季脚步临近，气温升高，恰是展现魅力的时节。帅气有个性的女孩子总会需要一款神奇的香水助她驾驭夏天。迪奥（Dior）Poison Girl 毒药女孩淡香水是一款无与伦比的全新利器，毒药女孩应该既甜美又性感——Poison Girl 淡香水完美糅合柑橘和鲜花——零陵香豆和香草的香气弥漫开来，中和浓浓橘香，流露出苦甜交融的气息。 Poison Girl 淡香水包装采用全新的 20 毫升走珠设计香水瓶，可以轻松带在身边登机旅行，玻璃走珠设计在您需要涂抹的位置释出恰到好处的香薰份量，不多不少，恰到好处。

Be a poison girl When the temperature goes up, it’s the time to turn on the charm. Cool girls always need a fascinating fragrance to rule the season. Dior Poison Girl Eau de Toilette is a new composition with a distinctive beat. A poison girl should be sweet and sensual - the Eau de Toilette perfectly blending orange and flowers with notes of tonka bean and vanilla distilling their racy, bitter-sweet caress. Poison Girl Eau de Toilette is housed in a new 20ml Roller-Pearl bottle which is easy to bring on flights, with the glass bead tip delivering just the right amount of fragrance right where you want it, with no waste.

普拉达甜蜜先锋普拉达（Prada）经典香氛系列普拉达 Candy 家族又迎来一位甜美的女孩——普拉达 Candy Sugar Pop 糖果之甜蜜先锋。如同波普艺术中杂乱的缤纷色彩，此款香水充满了精致的讽刺意味。讽刺的是，糖果和糖象征着一件梦寐以求的东西带给人难以抗拒的甜蜜。香水洋溢着桃子的清新气息和香草的泥土气息，混合了香柠檬油和 Mahonial，苹果和青柑橘，奏出一曲出人意外、内容丰富的香氛故事。Candy Sugar Pop 有三种容量包装，分别是 30 毫升、50 毫升和 100 毫升。

Candy Sugar Pop Prada signature fragrance collection Prada Candy family welcomes a new girl - Prada Candy Sugar Pop. Like the brightly coloured fuzz of Pop Art, it is soaked in sophisticated irony. An irony where candy and sugar are metaphors for the irresistible sweetness of an object of desire. The fragrance presents delicate notes of fresh Peach and earthy Vanilla mingling with Vert de Bergamote and Mahonial, topped with shiny Apple and Green Citrus, comprising an unexpectedly substantial scent story. The Candy Sugar Pop is available in three sizes - 30ml, 50 ml and 100ml.

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 83

Essential BAZAAR

路易威登新浪潮系列

柏莱士璀璨星空两年前，柏莱士（Bell & Ross）发布了 BR S Diamond Eagle 女士腕表，这一优雅之作大获成功。顺应这一大热趋势，品牌今年决定将其完善为一个完整的系列。新系列提供共四款色彩（蓝色、白色、灰色和粉红色）供挑选，仍以“星空”为灵感。表盘铺满璀璨钻石，一如夜空中的繁星闪烁。而每一款色彩都包括两个别具特色的表款：简约款，精致的“星座” 表盘镶满小小的钻石；钻石款，表圈镶嵌 66 颗钻石，奢华高雅。

杜嘉班纳个性定制太阳镜杜嘉班纳（Dolce & Gabbana）发布全新太阳镜系列——Customize your eyes 个性定制系列。此系列向品牌发源地西西里致敬，金色的太阳镜采用圆形镜框和精美渐变镜片，可拆卸 Clip-On 镜框让您以一个镜框配衬三款不同镜片，呈现三种风格。该系列太阳镜可在以下几种搭配中自由切换：豹纹/酒红色，条纹和玫瑰/黑色，西西里 majolica 彩釉/棕色哈瓦纳。

Customize your eyes

Inspirational sky After the success achieved with the BR S Diamond Eagle ladies’ watch, launched two years ago, Bell & Ross has now decided to create a homonymous collection. Available in four different colours (blue, white, grey and pink), this set of models, just like the first version, features dials inspired by the night’s sky, exhibiting multiple scintillating diamonds. Each of the colours has two different versions: one “simple” version, featuring the Constellation dial and decorated with small diamonds; and the Diamonds version, with a raised bezel set with 66 diamonds. www.bellross.com

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Dolce & Gabbana presents it new sunglasses line called Customize your eyes. Created as an homage to the brand’s Sicilian roots, these golden sunglasses, with round frames and a grey gradient, can be worn as three different models in a single frame, thanks to the combination and application of clip-ons. The interchangeable versions available are leopard/burgundy, stripes and roses/black, and Sicilian majolica/ brown Havana. www.dolcegabbana.com

再现大师经典为庆祝丹麦设计巨匠汉斯·J·韦格纳（Hans J. Wagner）诞辰 104 周年，丹麦高端家居品牌 Carl Hansen & Son 全新演绎这位大师的经典之作——Wishbone Chair 座椅（亦是为大家所熟知的 Y 座椅）。新款 Wishbone Chair 名为 Ancient Oak，因为其色彩更为温暖，材质更为轻盈。椅子采用天然着色的橡木制成，木材经过几个星期的特殊工艺处理，呈现出“古老橡木” 特质，椅子色调更暗，重现罕见古老橡木的外观和品质特色。

路易威登（Louis Vuitton）发布了全新皮具系列 New Wave 复古新浪潮系列。系列灵感源自绚丽多姿的 1980 年代，采用柔软光滑的皮革打造出各种包包。可拆卸肩带上的 Vuitton（威登）一词的字母使用彩虹色彩。该系列包括各种尺寸的单肩包、手提包和手抓包，每个款式都配备不同颜色供选择，包括黑色、红色、甜美粉和马里布绿色。系列将于 7 月份上市。

Ancient oak As a way to mark the 104th birthday of Hans J. Wagner, Carl Hansen & Son recreated the iconic Wishbone Chair. Ancient Oak is the name of the new edition that is defined by its warmer and more intense light. Made from naturally tinged oak, treated over the course of several weeks until becoming “Ancient Oak” material, this chair gains a darker shade, recreating the characteristic appearance and qualities of rare, ancient oakwood. www.carlhansen.com

New wave Louis Vuitton has just launched its new leather line New Wave. Inspired by the colourful spirit of the 1980s, the maison showcases versatile bags made from smooth, flexible leather. The letters of the word ‘Vuitton’ are decorated with the colours of the rainbow in the removable straps. This collection includes shoulder bags, in sizes large and small, the tote format and the clutch, with all models available in black, red, smoothie pink and Malibu green. The line will be available from July. www.louisvuitton.com

Essential BAZAAR

运动员首选 Richard Mille 的 RM 67-02 全自动腕表，汇集高科技技术和超薄材质，全表重量仅为 32 克！因此，当之无愧成为众多顶级运动员的首选腕表。品牌最近携手网球界当红炸子鸡亚历山大·兹维列夫（Alexander Zverev），为 RM 67-02 代言。该款腕表展现了 CRMA7 机芯的迷人机械美感，五级钛合金的底板和板桥结合白金和 TPT®碳纤维的可变几何结构自动盘，配以完美抛光。为了实现 RM 67-02 的极致佩戴感受，腕表采用了品牌特别设计的舒适表带，表带采用整体无缝设计，除了质地轻盈外，还拥有透气、贴肤等舒适特点。

杰尼亚 Wash & Co 可机洗系列杰尼亚旗下年轻线 Z Zegna 发布的最新系列，采用 Techmerino™高科技美利奴羊毛制作。Techmerino™ Wash & Go 可机洗系列，可以随时在家用洗衣机中清洗。该系列采用快干特性的 Techmerino™美利奴羊毛，清洗时要放入专业洗衣袋，在水温 30 度下机洗完成。清洗过后，衣服如新，无需干洗和熨烫。品牌于去年推出的 Techmerino™美利奴羊毛采用纯初剪羊毛，品质无与伦比，还具有调节体温、透气等特质，超级舒适修身。

Tumi 轻盈耐用旅行箱 TUMI 全新推出的 Latitude 旅行箱系列，是创新、实用和永恒设计的典范。系列采用革新型自增强聚丙烯 ballistic 材料制成，坚固耐用；是迄今为止市场上最轻的旅行箱产品，把坚固度和工程技艺提升到极致。此高端旅行箱系列包含各种手提行李箱和旅行箱，收拾行装打包极为方便，配有各种打包配件，如绑带、多袋设计和衣架固定器等。

Durable and light

Athlete’s Choice Made with high-tech ultra-light materials, Richard Mille an RM 67-02 is an automatic watch that, including the strap, weighs a scant 32g! As a result, the RM 67-02 has become the timepiece of choice for many top athletes. The brand welcomes a newest athlete tennis hotshot Alexander Zverev to become associated with the RM 67-02. This unique model preserves the mechanical beauty of the CRMA7 calibre, combining the grade 5 titanium of the baseplate and bridges with the white gold and Carbon TPTof the variable-geometry rotor as well as the exceptional finishes. The watch is fitted with Richard Mille’s specially designed Comfort Strap, an elastic strap that requires no buckle for closure. Apart from being light, it was designed to be breathable and also comfortable on the skin. www.richardmille.com

Innovation, functionality and lasting design are the keywords for the new Latitude collection from Tumi. Made from a unique material, the innovative self-reinforced poly-propylene ballistic, this is the most light-weight luggage range produced to date, challenging the standards of durability and engineering. Available in a variety of hand-luggage and hold luggage, this premium suitcase collection was also designed to be easy to pack, incorporating a series of organisers, such as straps, multiple pockets and a clothes hanger fixing. www.tumi.com

劲浪最佳性能耳机劲浪（Focal）打造了全新 Clear 耳机，以实现极致音响效果，提供更卓越性能。耳机采用Ｍ型结构铝镁合金倒置式穹顶振膜，保留了高保真扬声器的音频带宽度和声音的完整动态，耳机还配备了微孔穿孔耳垫和皮革头带，戴起来无比舒适。

The best performance The new Clear earphones by Focal were created with the aim of achieving absolute sound, therefore allowing better performance. Incorporating an inverted dome with an M-profile aluminium/magnesium alloy, which preserves the width and dynamic worthy of the best high-fidelity speakers, these headphones also feature micro-perforated ear cushions and a leather headband that make them extremely comfortable. www.focal.com

Wash & Go Z Zegna presented its latest innovation incorporating Techmerino™ wool. It’s called Techmerino™ Wash & Go and was conceived so that clothing can be washed in a domestic washing machine whenever you want to clean it in the comfort of your own home. Created with fast-drying T echmerino™ wool, the Wash & Go pieces are placed in a special bag and washed at a temperature of 30 degrees. After washing, the fabric will maintain all of its quality standards. Launched last year, Techmerino™ wool comprises 100% virgin wool and has innate high-performance qualities, dynamically regulating heat and breathability, and providing superior fit and comfort. www.zegna.com 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 85

Essential TRAVEL

魅力上海 Shanghai Sensation 上海，中国大陆最大的城市，也是中国最大的旅游城市，为游客提供超群的大都市旅游体验，也是了解庞大中国的最佳起点 Shanghai, mainland China’s biggest city and among its biggest tourist draws, too, delivers one of the country’s most cosmopolitan visitor experiences, and serves as a terrific introduction to the vast country of China 文字/Text by CHAD MERCHANT 图片/Photos by SIM EWE JIN AND THE PULI HOTEL AND SPA 璞丽酒店

如

果有人问，全球最大的城市是哪个，大部分人可能会回答东京，的确，日本首都东京是全球人口最密集的大都会区。但说到实际的市区，上海的至尊之位无人能及，全市人口 2,400 万，让东京的 920 万人口遥不可及。其实，从绝对人口数量的角度来看，唯一能与上海相抗衡的城市只有中国首都、拥有 2,100 万人口的北京。造访上海期间，我们住在了静安区，这里云集了公园、古刹、豪华酒店、时髦餐厅以及全上海最高级的购物商场。静安区距离上海浦东机场约一个小时车程，距离外滩滨海区只有几公里，是我们每日出游的完美基地。 86 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

静安明珠

虽然静安区有许多知名的国际连锁酒店，但我们选择入住了精品酒店璞丽酒店，因为有人向我们强力推荐过这家酒店。事实证明，我们的选择非常正确，因为除了酒店除了现代迷人的建筑设计外，还拥有出类拔萃的 Anantara Spa 水疗中心和米其林星级餐厅斐霓丝餐厅酒吧，该餐厅被入选上海 50 间最佳餐厅。璞丽酒店的客房和套房宽敞、现代，一应设施都是豪华酒店级别。酒店房间漂亮舒适，有许多房间还能俯瞰毗连酒店的静安公园。静安公园是早餐后散步消遣的好地方。璞丽

ost people, if asked for their guess of the world’s largest city, might name Tokyo, and indeed, the Japanese titan is the world’s most populous metropolitan area. But when it comes to an actual city proper, Shanghai reigns supreme, its 24 million residents far outpacing Tokyo’s 9.2 million. In fact, the only other single city that really challenges Shanghai when it comes to sheer numbers is that other powerhouse of mainland China, Beijing, with about 21 million. We stayed in the delightful Jing’an district, home to parks, a magnificent temple, posh

Essential TRAVEL

酒店的早餐让人称道，高级但不花哨的自助早餐及单点菜单都是中西合璧。酒店最令我们欣赏和享受的其中一个独特理念是其“解构式”的俱乐部酒廊。酒店没有设置专门的贵宾酒廊，俱乐部楼层的宾客在酒店的各个场所均享受俱乐部优惠，包括位于客房内的免费无限畅饮迷你吧，客房迷你吧每天会根据使用进行补充。我们特别喜欢璞丽酒店精致华美的长吧，长吧从下午 5 点到 8 点提供各种无限量鸡尾酒、红、白葡萄酒和令人眼花缭乱的美味小食。下午和傍晚可以到露天花园放松身心，这里是宾客们最喜欢的地方，露天花园位于迷人的游泳池旁，设有舒适的沙发，环境轻松惬意，服务无微不至。我们在这里尽情享受了下午茶和其他美味，该款待也包含在俱乐部楼层的服务套餐内。璞丽酒店露天花园之所以吸引人，原因之一是我们本次入住酒店的时节正适宜。春天是造访上海的好时节，静安区的街道上繁花似锦，让我们深深着迷。春天的上海清新怡人，白天的气温会超过 20 度，到了午夜会降到十几度。由于工作日期间上下班车流量繁忙，会有轻微雾霾，但周末时，天高气爽，非常舒服。

早午餐和外滩

静安区距离外滩不远。上海的地铁交通效率无与伦比，璞丽酒店附近就有个地铁站，到外滩只要三站。星期天，我们忍不住前往著名的外滩滨海区，去上海威斯汀大饭店体 88 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

hotels, chic restaurants, and some of the best shopping in the city. About an hour from Shanghai’s Pudong Airport, and just a few kilometres from the famous Bund riverfront area, Jing’an proved to be a fantastic base for our daily excursions.

JING’AN HIGHLIGHTS Though a number of well-known international chains are in the immediate vicinity, we chose to stay at a boutique hotel called The PuLi, which had come highly recommended to us. It turned out to be a good choice, as the property boasts not only beautiful contemporary architecture and design, but is also home to the excellent Anantara Spa and the Michelin-starred restaurant Phénix Eatery and Bar, which has also been named one of Shanghai’s top 50 restaurants. The rooms and suites of The PuLi are spacious and contemporary, with all the amenities expected in a luxury hotel. Many of the lovely rooms at the hotel overlook the expansive Jing’an Park, which is adjacent to the property, and this quickly became a favoured spot for morning strolls after breakfast. On that point, we found our morning meals at The PuLi to be quite good, as the modest, highquality buffet spread was complemented by an à la carte menu featuring both Western and traditional Chinese fare.

One unique concept at the hotel which we enjoyed tremendously was its ‘deconstructed’ club lounge approach. Rather than having a specific, exclusive lounge, guests staying on club floors were presented with club benefits at the various venues in the hotel, including a free-flow mini-bar located in the room itself, which was replenished as needed daily. We particularly enjoyed the evening offerings at the Long Bar in The PuLi’s beautifully sophisticated lobby, with a curated range of unlimited cocktails, wines, and delectable edibles available from a special menu from 5 to 8pm. Afternoons and early evenings were enjoyably spent on The Terrace, the brilliant outdoor garden that was clearly a popular focal point for guests, with its comfy loungers, laid-back vibe, and great service by the side of the hotel’s mesmerising reflecting pool. We indulged in outstanding high tea and other light bites, which was also included as part of the club floor package. Part of the appeal of The Terrace at The PuLi was certainly down to the time of year we were there. Spring is a lovely time to visit Shanghai, and we were captivated by the flowers and blossoms lining the streets and sidewalks around the Jing’an district. Temperatures rose to the low 20s by day and eased to mid-teens during the night, so Shanghai in the springtime is a pure delight. During the weekend, skies

验了那里的香槟早午餐。出发前，我们上网搜了一下，发现上海威斯汀大饭店的周日早午餐好评极高，而我们也的确没有辜负此行：食物超级出众，可以无限畅饮凯歌香槟，餐厅服务全程都是顶级水准。就餐期间还有现场迷你管弦乐团演奏和多样的娱乐节目：著名的歌剧演员一展歌喉、小提琴家们争相献艺，更有别出心裁的中国杂技表演。如果您在上海并且恰逢周日，何不为自己在威斯汀大饭店订个位置，去那里享受一顿周日早午餐。

酒足饭饱后，我们继续探索外滩，继续在如画美景中徜徉。离开威斯汀酒店时天还亮着，其实外滩是到了夜间才开始展现其真正魅力。浦东天际线看起来宛如科幻电影中的场景，绚丽斑斓的色彩、不同形状的高楼大厦都融进了这不同凡响、美不胜收的天际线中。返回璞丽酒店时，上海的地铁再次让我们惊喜异常：不仅票价适中，地铁站也非常好找，因为到处都是通往地铁站的中英文标识，甚至连地铁播音也都是中英双语。

were generally blue and clear, with a bit of haze creeping in on weekdays, no doubt from the many commuters driving to their offices.

BRUNCH AND THE BUND Jing’an is not far from The Bund, either, and Shanghai’s excellent public rail system, the Metro, has a station very near The PuLi, and it was just three stops from The Bund. We couldn’t resist heading to the famed riverfront

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 89

静安区内及周边有很多美食选择。如果想吃牛排，1515 牛排馆是上佳选择，不仅牛排精心烹制、味道出众，环境也高雅别致，另外还有各种充满创意的鸡尾酒。如果想尝试本地美味，可以去上海海底捞火锅店北京西路店。餐厅价格亲民、景色无敌、服务一流，但用餐高峰时段要排队等位很久，所以最好提前计划好行程。璞丽酒店餐厅的佳肴精致美味、洋溢着现代气息，我们

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district on Sunday to catch the exceptionally popular Champagne brunch at The Westin Shanghai. A little research online before the trip suggested that this was the place to be for brunch on Sundays, and the experience absolutely backed it up: the food was great, the Veuve Clicquot was poured freely, and the service was top to bottom excellent. The brunch was complemented by a live mini-orchestra and

a succession of various entertainment at times, including a couple of arias belted out by talented opera singers, a pair of duelling violinists, and an impressive display of Chinese acrobatics. If you are in Shanghai and your visit encompasses a Sunday, do yourself a favour and book a table for brunch at The Westin. After our thoroughly enjoyable brunch, we explored around The Bund a bit more, taking

Essential TRAVEL

旅游贴士

许多澳门人很很清楚，中国大陆屏蔽了许多门户网站，包括包括谷歌和脸书。这表明若您使用 Gmail、 Instagram、 YouTube、甚或 WhatsApp，可能会有困难。所以可以使用个人 VPN 来解决问题，我怀疑酒店的无线网络就使用了 VPN，因为我们可以通过他们的网络登录这些网站，但并不能总是一帆风顺，网速也不是很稳定。还有个办法就是使用 Flexiroam SIM 卡，该卡不仅可以在大陆（和其他地区）提供可靠稳定的数据漫游，但可以有效避开他们屏蔽。了解更多详情，请上网搜索“VPN for China”，或登录 flexiroam.com。想了解更多酒店资讯，请登录璞丽酒店官网：thepuli.com。了解更多上海威斯汀大饭店的周日早午餐，请登录： westinshanghai.com/dining-sunday-brunch。

不用费心去其他地方找寻，直接去酒店二楼斐霓丝餐厅酒吧（米其林一星餐厅）就可以尽情欣赏餐厅厨师在烹饪美食时充满艺术气息的烹饪过程。上海是一个在不断蔓延发展的国际大都市，拥有丰富悠久的历史文化、现代配套设施和豪华服务，很值得我们呆久一些，但这次来上海短留让我们对中国最具吸引力的城市有了初步的了解。 쐽

in the sights. It was still daylight as we left The Westin, of course, but the area really comes into its own at night. The Pudong skyline looks like something out of a science fiction film in a way, with the varied colours and unusual shapes of the buildings and towers all converging into a uniquely iconic skyline. We finally headed back to The PuLi hotel, impressed once again by the efficiency of the Metro. Fares are inexpensive and it’s surprisingly easy to navigate as most signage (and even the announcements) are in both Chinese and English. Good food is plentiful in and around Jing’an. If you’re in the mood for a good steak, 1515 West is a fine choice, boasting not only well-prepared steaks, but a nice ambiance and a good selection of creative cocktails. If you want something really local (and tasty), visit Shanghai Haidilao Hot Pot Dian on Beijing West Road. Moderate prices, great views of the city, and excellent service, though there can be long waits for a table at peak times, so plan accordingly. For fine dining with a contemporary, sophisticated flair, we didn’t even have to leave our hotel, and indulged in an artful procession of chef-curated dishes at Phénix restaurant, located on level 2 of The PuLi (one Michelin star). Shanghai is a sprawling, cosmopolitan city, at once delivering rich history and culture and modern conveniences and luxury. It certainly deserved a longer stay than we were able to book, but the visit was a good introduction to one of China’s most appealing city destinations. 쐽

TRAVEL TIPS As many Macanese are surely aware, Mainland China blocks a number of internet portals and sites, including Google and Facebook. This means you may have difficulty connecting if you use Gmail, Instagram, YouTube, and even WhatsApp. A personal VPN is one way around this, and we suspected our hotel uses a VPN for its Wi-Fi, as we were able to access much of these sites while on their network, though it wasn’t always fast or reliable. Another way around it is to use the Flexiroam SIM, which not only provides reliable data roaming while in China (and other locations), but effectively circumvents their blocks, too. Learn more by searching for “VPN for China” or visiting flexiroam.com. To learn more about The PuLi, visit thepuli.com. For information on The Westin’s Sunday Brunch, visit westinshanghai.com/ dining-sunday-brunch.

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 91

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享受工作 Love what you do 澳门金丽华酒店荟景阁咖啡厅宣布任命艾德格 · 阿尔维斯为餐厅新任主厨 Café Bela Vista at Grand Lapa, Macau announces the appointment of Edgar Alves as its new Chef de Cuisine 文/by EDWINA LIU

荟

景阁咖啡厅是一间葡式美食餐厅，就餐环境优雅怡人，令人倍感愉悦。餐厅采用暗色系木质地板、天花板凉扇、吊灯，饰以美丽的马赛克地板，还有迷人的殖民风格露台，营造出温馨的葡萄牙家居氛围。如今，餐厅新任主厨艾德格·阿尔维斯（Edgar Alves），负责打造餐厅的全新菜单，带来地道葡萄牙美馔。来澳门前，艾德格先后在葡萄牙、非洲、丹麦及香港磨炼过自己的烹饪技艺，他透露说：“来这里之前我读过一篇关于金丽华酒店的故事，我很喜欢。酒店历史悠久，而且不仰仗赌场生存。也就是说我们要靠高品质服务吸引顾客……酒店规模不算很大，正适 92 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

合我。在这里，宾客知道我是餐厅的厨师；在大酒店，（厨师和宾客间的）距离太遥远了，没人知道谁是厨师。” 艾德格进入烹饪界已超过 18 年之久。年轻时，他总会和父亲一起准备周末烧烤，后来他开始了自己的烹饪生涯。为了精进并完善烹饪技巧，他到烹饪学校进修，他说： “进入烹饪学校的第一年有些无聊，因为他们只教授简单和基本的东西。但等我们开始到酒店和餐厅培训时，就变得很有趣了……” 艾德格一毕业，就进入葡萄牙高端酒店开始职业生涯，如五星酒店 Orizon Campo Real 和 Hotel CS Montargil。多亏这些经验，艾德格主厨能够出色履行自己的管理技能，他解释

afé Bela Vista at Grand Lapa is a Portuguese restaurant with a delightful dining atmosphere. With dark wood flooring, ceiling fans, chandeliers, beautiful mosaics and colonial-style veranda, the restaurant projects the ambience of a warm Portuguese family home. And now welcomes new Chef de Cuisine Edgar Alves, who is charged with creating a brand new menu bursting with authentic Portuguese delicacies. Before arriving in Macau, Alves had honed his craft in Portugal, Africa, Denmark and Hong Kong, revealing: “I read a story about this hotel before I came here and I really love it. The hotel

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道：“五星酒店有自己成熟的管理系统；我在那里学到了很多东西，学到了如何照顾员工，如何管理厨房的日常工作。此外，我有机会学到了更多菜式出品和摆盘知识。” 对很对人而言，葡萄牙美食非常简朴，并不以卖相著称。但在荟景阁咖啡厅，菜肴更具现代特色、摆盘也非常出众。“我按照正宗的葡萄牙食谱烹饪菜肴，”他表示。“然后我用真心来摆盘。” 艾德格主厨的招牌菜式——马介休焗薯蓉配蒜蓉多士，盛在一个漂亮的焗盘，配有蒜蓉多士，带给人清新时尚的感觉。 “烹饪马介休时，我不能做太多改变；比如说，如果我不用焗盘烹饪的话，味道会不一样。但我只对份量做了调整。这道菜是完美的开胃菜。” 艾德格用水、面粉和牛奶烹饪马介休，令其口感细滑，亚洲人尤其钟爱这种味道。离开葡萄牙后，艾德格主厨开始在世界各地的餐厅工作，他在多个国家积累了经验，为自己的事业增添了不少色彩，“在不同餐厅的工作经历，让我学会了用更多食材烹饪自己风格的融合菜式。” 大约 6 个月前，艾德格主厨加入了荟景阁咖啡厅。 94 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

has a long history and [does not rely upon a] casino. It means we need to attract customers by our high quality service . . . The hotel is not huge, which is very nice for me. Here, guests know I am the restaurant chef; in a huge hotel, the distance between [chef and guests] is too far and nobody knows who is the chef.” Alves has already cooked for more than 18 years. When he was young, he often prepared barbecues with his father during the weekends, following which he embarked upon his culinary journey. To perfect his skills, he went to culinary school, saying: “The first year was a bit boring because they only teach some very basic and easy things. But when we started to do the training in hotels and restaurants it became more interesting . . .” Upon graduating, Alves began his career in some high-end hotels in Portugal like Hotel Orizon Campo Real and Hotel CS Montargil. Thanks to these experiences Chef Alves got the chance to fulfil his management skills, explaining: “Five-star hotels have their own mature systems; there I learned a lot about how to take care of the staff and to manage the daily routine

of the kitchen. As well as this I got the opportunity to learn more about presentation.” To many people Portuguese cuisine is very simple and rarely acclaimed for its plating. At Café Bela Vista, however, dishes are more modern and well presented. “I cook the food following the authentic Portuguese recipe,” he confides. “Then I use my heart to do the presentation.” The signature dish of Chef Alves - Bacalhau Com Natas Creamy Gratinated Shredded Bacalhau with Garlic Toast - is housed in a small pretty pot accompanied by slices of garlic toast, showcasing a fresh, chic feeling. “Cooking this Bacalhau, I can’t change it too much; for example, if I don’t use the pot the taste will be different. But I just change the portion. And this one is perfect as an appetizer.” The Chef cooks the Bacalhao with water, flour and milk to make it creamy, a taste beloved by Asian people. Leaving Portugal, Chef Alves embarked upon his journey around the world, with the experiences accumulated in various countries adding many colours to the palette of his career,

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“我很爱这间餐厅，”他满怀热情地说。“当我在开放式厨房烹饪时，我可以和自己的客人交谈。有一次，有位客人正在寻找卫生间，但他走错了方向，来到了厨房里。他对我说：’你好，我会讲葡萄牙语。’太有意思了！” 餐厅供应葡萄牙菜肴和几款土生蒲国菜。葡萄牙菜看似简单，但要用很长时间进行准备。比如，烤乳猪需要提前腌制至少 12 个小时，这样才有嫩滑香甜的口感。 “葡萄牙菜是非常传统的家常菜，”他说。 “不用太多装饰，但却非常好吃。” 为了给餐厅客人提供正宗的葡萄佳肴，艾德格主厨坚持采用正宗的葡萄牙烹饪手法。葡式龙虾海鲜烩饭是餐厅的另一道招牌菜。这道诱人的菜肴中用到了葡萄牙贻贝、本地市场的龙虾、蛤蜊以及许多其他新鲜的海产。 “本地海产味道鲜美。能够使用新鲜的本地食材太棒了，”他说，这道菜是阿尔加维（Algarve）的经典菜式，阿尔加维是葡萄牙沿海的一个度假胜地，沿大西洋拥有长长的海岸线。“这道菜是道共享菜式，人们喜欢边吃这道菜边喝冰冻啤酒。” 说到烹饪，艾德格主厨总是热情洋溢： “你要热爱自己的工作。我 19 岁时，有位厨师问我是否有女朋友，他跟我说，我必须爱自己的厨房胜过爱女朋友。因为女朋友可以换，但事业不能换。” “因此我必须热爱自己的工作，”他笑着说。“我做饭时从来不会觉得累，因为我很享受烹饪。” 쐽

claiming that “having worked in different places, I know of more ingredients that I can use to do my own style of fusion dishes.” About six months ago, Chef Alves joined Café Bela Vista in Macau. “I love this restaurant,” he enthuses. “I can talk to my guests while I am cooking in the open

kitchen. One time, a guy was looking for the restroom but he went the wrong way and walked into the kitchen. And he said to me: ‘Hi, I can speak Portuguese.’ It was very funny!” The restaurant serves authentic Portuguese cuisine mixed with a few Macanese dishes. While Portuguese food may be simple it takes a long time to prepare. For example, the Suckling Pig needs to be marinated for at least 12 hours before the meat will taste milky and sweet. “Portuguese is a very traditional, home-style cuisine,” he says. “It doesn’t have to have too much decoration but it’s very tasty.” To provide guests with the authentic taste of Portuguese cuisine Chef Alves insists on keeping to the original Portuguese recipe. To serve his dishes in the best condition, however, he adds local produce. Portuguese Lobster and Seafood Cataplana is another highlight of the restaurant. The enticing dishes comprise mussels from Portugal, lobster and clams from the local market and many other fresh seafood delights. “Local seafood is fresh and very delicious. It’s good to use this fresh, local produce,” he says of a signature dish from the Algarve, a famous vacation destination lapped by the Atlantic in coastalPortugal. “It is a dish for sharing, which people love eating with a cold beer.” When talking about cooking, Chef Alves is always enthusiastic, insisting: “You need to love what you do. When I was 19 years old, a chef asked me if I had a girlfriend and he told me I needed to love the kitchen and the food more than her. Because you can change your girlfriend but you can’t change your career.” “So that’s why I have to love my job,” he laughs. “I never feel tired while I’m cooking because I really enjoy it!” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 95

Essential DRINK

欢饮坦奎利 Ready to Tanqueray? 幸运眷顾勇敢的人，伦敦金酒的发明者就是最佳证明。大约在 1 9 0 年前，查尔斯 · 坦奎利发明了有史以来最著名的金酒配方 Fortune favours the brave, and that proved to be true for the inventor of the first London Dry. Almost 190 years ago, Charles Tanqueray created the recipe for one of the most recognised gins of all time 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

830年，查尔斯 ·坦奎利（ Charles Tanqueray）决心开辟自己的道路。他违背家族为教会服务的传统——选择了在生活中相信科学，成为一位创业者、发明家和实验者，并决定在酿酒艺术方面开辟一条新路。查尔斯有13个兄弟姐妹，他和兄长爱德华·坦奎利共同成立了如今大名鼎鼎的金酒品牌。“坦奎利是位天才，”品牌前酿酒大师汤姆·尼科尔（Tom Nichol）说。查尔斯·坦奎利以当时的酿酒大师、业界领军人物菲利克斯·布斯（Felix Booth）和亚历山大·哥顿（Alexander Gordon）为榜样，希望制作出顶级品质的烈酒。他不仅实现了自己的远大抱负，还为世界带来了全球第一款 London Dry 伦敦干金酒，与当时流行的 “‘Old Tom’老汤姆金酒风格相反。拥有该品牌的英国帝亚吉欧公司（ Diageo）资深档案管理员 Joanne McKerchar指出：“老汤姆”金酒用更多的糖来掩盖酒在蒸馏过程中的口感问题。” 坦奎利兄弟二人先是在伦敦布卢姆茨伯里区（Bloomsbury）附近开了一家小酒厂，几年后，1838 年，他们又在藤街创立了 Edward & Charles Tanqueray & Co 公司。查尔斯充分展现自己的想象力，发明了一个坦奎利金酒 96 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

t was 1830 when Charles Tanqueray decided to follow his passion. A creator, inventor and experimenter with a scientific approach to life, he went against his family tradition – tied to ecclesiastical roles – and decided to forge a path into the art of distillery. Along with one of his 13 siblings, Edward, he embarked on a process of the birth of what is today one of the most famous gin brands in the world. “Tanqueray was a genius,” says the brand’s former Master Distiller, Tom Nichol. With his sights set on the leading master distillers of that time, such as Felix Booth and Alexander Gordon, Charles wanted to be able to make the best. Not only did he achieve that, but he also introduced the world to the first ever London Dry, the opposite of the “Old Tom” style that was so in vogue at the time. “The ‘Old Tom’ gins had more sugar to hide the drink’s imperfections that resulted from the existing distillation process,” notes Joanne McKerchar, senior archivist of Diageo, the company that owns the brand. After opening a small distillery in the London neighbourhood of Bloomsbury, a few

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track. At the time, the competitive environment in the gin industry was intense. To avoid a fatality, in 1898, Charles Waugh Tanqueray undertook a fusion strategy that would bring together Alexander Gordon & Co and Charles Tanqueray & Co, thus creating the largest gin house in the world. With a special focus on the USA, Tanqueray quickly became a success story in the American market, and not even Prohibition (1920-1933) could offset its success. After that period, gin once again became the drink of choice. In 1964, Frank Sinatra contributed to doubling the brand’s sales after he was seen drinking Tanqueray at the Buena Vista Social Club in San Francisco.

THE SURPRISING Nº TEN The year 2000 was another crucial moment for Tanqueray. At a time when the gin industry was going through a crisis, Diageo, which bought the brand in the meantime, decided to focus on a super premium drink that could counter that trend. “Tanqueray Nº TEN was the first gin to use fresh citrus fruit. Fruit was very expensive in the 19th century, and up until the 20th century, it was unthinkable to use lemon and orange to produce a beverage,” explains Stephanie Jordan, former global ambassador of Tanqueray. Of a superior quality and embodying a smoother flavour, Tanqueray Nº TEN came, saw and conquered. Its heart, made from fresh oranges, limes and grapefruit, was the distinguishing factor in a market accustomed to using

如今依然采用的配方。经过反复实验和比例调试后，这位年轻的发明家终于打造出了最完美的配方比例：杜松子、当归、甘草和芫荽子是制作这款著名金酒的四样配方。“自创业伊始起，查尔斯无论做什么都力求精益求精，”Joanne McKerchar 补充道。 1867 年，查尔斯·坦奎利的儿子查尔斯· 沃克·坦奎利（Charles Waugh Tanqueray）接管了公司，由于他接受过正规的商业管理培训，很快就把公司生意带入正轨。当时，金酒行业竞争非常激烈。为了避免公司陷入绝境，查尔斯 ·沃克 ·坦奎利决定将 Alexander Gordon & Co 和 Charles Tanqueray & Co 两家公司合并，打造了世界上最大的金酒品牌。坦奎利尤其在美国市场投入更多精力，很快就成效卓著，甚至经过禁酒令（1920-1933 年）的打击后，其成功都势不可挡。这段时间过 98 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

years later, the two brothers founded Edward & Charles Tanqueray & Co on Vine Street in 1838. That was where Charles gave flight to his imagination, creating the formula that is still used today to produce Tanqueray gin. After many experiments and proportion adjustments, the young creator came up with the perfect composition: juniper berry, angelica root, liquorice and coriander seed were the four ingredients chosen to make the famous gin. “Charles was meticulous in everything he did, from the start of his career,” adds Joanne McKerchar. Charles Waugh Tanqueray, the son of the brand’s mentor, took the reins of the company in 1867, and thanks to his more commercial training, he helped put the business on the right

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后，金酒再次成为了人们钟爱的酒精饮品。 1964 年，因为有人看到爵士歌王弗兰克 · 辛纳特拉（Frank Sinatra）在旧金山的美景俱乐部（Buena Vista Social Club）饮用坦奎利金酒，品牌销量更在其明星效应下实现翻倍。

意外惊喜之 Nº TEN 10 号特级金酒

2000 年是坦奎利历史上至关重要的又一个年头。当金酒行业面临危机时，英国帝亚吉欧公司（Diageo）收购了品牌，决定专心打造一款顶级酒品，挽回金酒潮流。“Tanqueray Nº TEN 坦奎利 10 号特级金酒是第一款采用了新鲜柑橘类水果的金酒。19 世纪时，水果价格非常昂贵，直到 20 世纪，使用柠檬或柳橙制酒简直让人想都不敢想，”坦奎利前全球大使、著名爵士歌手 Stephanie Jordan 表示。坦奎利 10 号特级金酒拥有出众的品质，口感醇厚顺滑，一经问世就俘获大众。该酒采用新鲜的柳橙、柠檬和葡萄柚为原料的核心配方，与市场上习惯了的用水果干制作的金酒有明显的区别。该酒经过四次蒸馏过程，最后一次蒸馏过程中加入了洋甘菊花，赋予这款酒天鹅绒般的丝滑口感。此外还有，清爽的杜松子、辛辣的芫荽、芳香的当归和香甜的甘草味道。坦奎利 10 号特级金酒只进行小批量生产，是调制马天尼和鸡尾酒的绝佳基酒。这款金酒以制作过程中首个蒸馏室的名字命名。这要回溯到 1830 年，当时品牌是在昵称为 Tiny Ten 的 10 号蒸馏室进行试验和测试的。如今，在此处进行蒸馏已经是此款金酒制造过程中的必要元素。自问世以来，坦奎利 10 号特级金酒赢得过数不清的国际殊荣，其中包括：以最时尚金酒、最畅销金酒和酒保最爱烈酒入围近期的全球 50 佳酒吧（World’s 50 Best Bars）榜单。坦奎利 10 号特级金酒同品牌创始人一样追求精益求精，也是唯一荣登 “旧金山世界烈酒大赛名人堂（ ” San Francisco World Spirits Competition Hall of Fame）的金酒，该比赛是最杰出的烈酒竞赛这一。坦奎利品牌酒类如今在苏格兰制造，主要厂址是卡梅伦大桥蒸馏厂（Cameron Bridge Distillery），其产品销往全球 120 多个国家。쐽

dried fruits to make gin. After undergoing a thorough process of four distillations, it is the last one that includes chamomile flower, which gives the drink a velvety signature. Adding to that is refreshing juniper, spicy coriander, aromatic angelica and sweet liquorice.

An excellent base to create martinis and cocktails, Tanqueray Nº TEN is made in small batches. Its name comes from the still where the first distillation is done. Tiny Ten, as it is endearingly known, dates back to 1830 and was used to do experiments and tests. Today, it is an essential element for the production of this gin. Since its creation, Tanqueray Nº TEN has won countless international prizes, including recent mentions in the World’s 50 Best Bars as the trendiest gin, the bestselling gin and barmen’s favourite spirit. A true reflection of the pursuit of perfection, much in the same way as its mentor, Tanqueray Nº TEN is also the only gin in the world to feature in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition Hall of Fame, one of the most prominent competitions dedicated to spirits. The Tanqueray creations are currently produced in Scotland, more specifically at the Cameron Bridge distillery, and are sold in over 120 countries the world over. 쐽

干马天尼 / DRY MARTINI

材料： Tanqueray: 5 毫升坦奎瑞 10 号特级金酒 / 5cl Tanqueray Nº TEN 1 毫升干苦艾酒 / 1cl dry Vermouth 新鲜葡萄柚 / Fresh grapefruit 方法:将金酒和苦艾酒放在碗中搅拌，倒入冰镇的马天尼杯。再用粉红葡萄柚装饰。

Method: Stir together the gin and the vermouth in a bowl, and pour into a chilled Martini glass. Use pink grapefruit to decorate.

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 99

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嘉雅酒庄：传承与变革 Angelo Gaja, Piedmont and beyond 安哲奴• 嘉雅继承家传百年基业 —— 嘉雅酒庄，面对自找的艰难挑战，但最终克服万难，改变世界对意大利红酒的看法 Angelo Gaja created and solved a problem when facing the challenge of developing the centenarian Gaja house. By doing so, he revolutionised the idea that the world had of Italian wines 文/by LUIS ANTUNES 100 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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安

哲奴•嘉雅（1940 年生）于 1961 年开始与父亲 Giovanni 一起管理嘉雅酒庄。看着他咄咄逼人的气势，很容易明白酒庄在他手上为何会变得面目全非。凭借出色的交际天赋及充沛的精力，安哲奴在传承家族与传统的同时亦不阻碍他成为一名潮人，既能在家乡巴巴莱斯科 (Barbaresco)做个葡萄农夫，亦能优雅地环游世界，在纽约及伦敦为自己及他的美酒登上颁奖台。嘉雅酒庄创立于 1859 年，但却在最近 55 年开始不再用意大利葡萄产区的地名来命名红酒，包括国际上最受追捧的皮埃蒙特产区 (Piedmont)红酒。这样的变化是逐渐发生的。安哲奴虽然颇有变革精神，但亦懂得欲速则不达，在推陈出新的同时静候结果。例如，在 1969 年，他成为史上第一位胆敢将巴巴莱斯科产区的内比奥罗(Nebbiolo)葡萄酿在新鲜法国小橡木桶（传统是用晾干后的斯洛

文尼亚大橡木桶）的人，从而引致传统派与创新派之间历时 20 年的争论。结果，他简单地运用中庸之道，问题便完满解决。如今，安哲奴将红酒首先在新鲜小木桶中发酵 12 个月，然后转移到晾干的大木桶中再发酵 12 个月。作为酒庄的第四代传人（第一代是曾祖父 Giovanni，然后是祖父 Angelo、父亲 Giovanni），安哲奴据说曾因父亲施压而学习酿酒学。在他参与家族生意之时，酿酒环节已于 1970 年委托给 Guido Rivella 并于其后托给现时的负责人 Alessandro Albarello，而安哲奴则将他在家乡追求品质的成果展示予世界。对于教育，他允许子女自由选择行当。虽然大女儿 Gaia 进修经济学，但她似乎想步父亲的后尘，学习一切能打造、宣传及销售其家传红酒的知识。二女儿 Rossana 进修酿酒学，但在酒厂工作数年后便返校进修心理学。三弟 Giovanni 则一直管理家族生意，随

hen you see Angelo Gaja (b. 1940) on a communication offensive, it’s easy to understand how, when he joined his father Giovanni to oversee the Gaja house in 1961, nothing could stay as it was. A born communicator with an extraordinary dynamic, Angelo can make the unique link between the Barbaresco contadino, a country-dweller tied to the land, to family and traditions, and the elegant globetrotter with a designer tie who wins awards for himself and his wines in New York or London. The Gaja house was founded in 1859, but it was in the last 55 years that it stopped using a local name to project Italian wines, and within those, the wines of Piedmont, as the most desired and prestigious in the world. The changes happened gradually. A revolutionary but at the same time moderate, Angelo knows how 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 101

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后 Rossana 亦返回家业。子女的长大，似乎暗示着时代始终不断在变，但一切亦像在安哲奴的计划之中。播种、等待、收获。三姊弟如今和他一起工作，全部人“什么都做一点”。时代的变化在 1978 年时早已初见端倪，当时安哲奴决定舍弃内比奥罗(Nebbiolo)而改种赤霞珠 (Cabernet Sauvignon)。父亲每次经过都会用方言大叫“Darmagi!”（好可惜啊！）。最后，Darmagi 成为其赤霞珠葡萄酒名称，安哲奴对此表示：“这对打开美国市场而言很重要，因为诸如巴罗洛 (Barolo)或巴巴莱斯科 (Barbaresco)的酒名（对美国人）意义不大。

to drive motion, but he also knows how to wait for the results. In this way, he was the first to dare age his Barbaresco Nebbiolos in new French oak casks (in 1969, as opposed to the traditional large seasoned Slovenian oak barrels), kicking off huge controversy between traditionalists and innovators that lasted two decades. He solved it, quite simply, with a centrist position. Today, he ages his wine for 12 months in new casks and another 12 in seasoned barrels. The fourth in the Gaja lineage at the helm of the house’s fate (after his great-grandfather

Giovanni, grandfather Angelo and father Giovanni), Angelo Gaja is said to have studied oenology due to pressure from his father. After he joined the company, the winemaking was entrusted to Guido Rivella in 1970 and later to Alessandro Albarello, the current person in charge, while Angelo projected the results of the search for quality in his terroir to the world. His children were allowed to choose what they wanted to do, and while the eldest (Gaia) studied economy, it seems that she is following in her father’s footsteps by learning everything

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生于巴巴莱斯科的安哲奴从未想过将葡萄园扩张至该产区以外。经过一系列收购，他拥有了如今的 100 公顷土地，此后将“很难继续扩张，否则难以确保嘉雅红酒的葡萄品质”。早在 1961 年，嘉雅家族已决定只会用自己的葡萄酿酒。如今，嘉雅酒庄每年产量约 350,000 瓶。所以，当想到继续扩张时，所选位置必须同时具有历史、传统及风土等元素，例如在 Brunello di Montalcino 的 16 公顷土地，这是靠近锡耶纳的一个历史悠久的 DOCG（意大利法定最高等级红酒）产区，以及在 Bolgheri 产区的 100 公顷土地 — — 超级

托斯卡纳 (Supertoscani)的故乡，一片在海边的狭长地域 (Maremma Toscana)，从北面的利佛诺内一直延伸到南面毗邻格罗塞托。这里便是意大利经典新酒品的产地 —— 它们是安哲奴自 1968 年第一次收获西施佳雅 (Sassicaia)葡萄以来的当代作品。最近，安哲奴与当地生产商 Alberto Graci 合作，在卡塔尼亚(Catania) 省西西里岛的埃特纳(Etna)火山山坡上投资种植葡萄藤。这位意大利酒商讲述了一则有趣的轶事：原来扩张计划曾涉及与美国公司 Mondavi 的合作愿景。据他说，“我们的联姻没有实现，因为这种结合

related to creating, promoting and selling the family’s wines. The second child, Rossana, studied oenology but, after a few years at the winery, returned to university to study Psychology. She then returned to the family business, where the youngest sibling, Giovanni, already worked, as well. It is a sign of how times have changed, and of Angelo’s measured position. Sowing, waiting, reaping. His three children work with him, and all do “a bit of everything”. Times were also changing when, in 1978, Angelo decided to convert Nebbiolo vines to

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会像大象娶蚊。它们之间的性，大象不会满足，但对蚊子却是至关重要”。但尽管上世纪 60 年代巴罗洛(Barolo)或巴巴莱斯科 (Barbaresco)等酒款在国际上知名度低，但安哲奴 •嘉雅及其追随者 (无论在那场争议中立场如何 )很快使这两款葡萄酒备受全球追捧。自他父亲还掌权的 1937 年起，在酒标上嘉雅的名号就比巴巴莱斯科法定认证 (DOCG Barbaresco)更引人注意。在安哲奴的这些努力后，巴巴莱斯科声名远扬，并且也已建立起嘉雅的声誉，现在是恢复家族皇牌的时候了。酒庄的重量级葡萄酒嘉雅巴巴莱斯科 (Gaja Barbaresco)，其价值长期被 “低估 ”——与同等的单一葡萄园酒酿（法国人会说是“lieu-dit”）相比，例如 Sorì San Lorenzo（自 1967 年起），Sorì Tildìn（自 1970 年起）和 Costa Russi（自 1978 年起）。安哲奴一直高度评价他的嘉雅巴巴莱斯科，说 “这款葡萄酒由于采用的葡萄品种来自 14 个不同的葡萄园”，所以酒体丰富复杂”，并且每当有人评之为“一般”时，他都会生气。他会有点气恼地惊呼：“一般？！我们不制作普通的葡萄酒！” 因此，从 1996 年开始，他做出了一个石破天惊的决定：在他的巴巴莱斯科法定认证 104 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Cabernet Sauvignon. Old Giovanni would exclaim “Darmagi!” every time he walked passed, which in local dialect means “what a shame”. Thus it became the name of the wine which, according to Angelo, “was important to open the doors to the American market, as the name Barolo or Barbaresco meant very little”. Born in Barbaresco, Angelo never wanted to expand his vineyards much beyond that denomination. With successive purchases, he reached the 100 hectares he has today, a number that “would be very difficult to surpass to ensure vines of the desired quality for the Gaja wines”. On the other hand, it had been decided since 1961 that they would only make wines with their own grapes. Now they produce around 350,000 bottles of wine per year. So when the idea of expansion emerged, the selected locations were pieces of land with history, tradition and terroir: 16 hectares in Brunello di Montalcino, the old and prestigious DOCG near Siena, and 100 hectares in the Bolgheri region, home to the Supertoscani, a narrow stretch (Maremma Toscana) by the sea, from Livorno in the north to near Grosseto in the south.

This is where the new Italian classics reside, Angelo’s contemporaries since the first Sassicaia harvest in 1968. Recently, Angelo invested in vines on the hillside of the Etna volcano in Sicily, in the Catania province, in partnership with local producer Alberto Graci. The Italian tells a funny anecdote of how this expansion involved a partnership attempt with the American company Mondavi. According to him, “the marriage didn’t go ahead because it would be like an elephant marrying a mosquito. The sex wouldn’t be satisfying for the elephant, but it would be fatal for the mosquito”. But although the names Barbaresco and Barolo meant little internationally in the 1960s, the work of Angelo Gaja and his followers, of both sides of the controversy barrier, soon turned them into global icons. Since the days of his father, from 1937, the Gaja name appeared more prominent on the labels than the DOC Barbaresco. After doing his homework, with the notoriety of Barbaresco reached and having built the Gaja reputation, it was time to restore the family’s priorities. The house’s heavyweight, Gaja Barbaresco, was constantly “de-valued”

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（Barbaresco DOCG）酒标上保留了他 “通用 ” 的 Gaja 嘉雅（叫它其他名称会令我焦虑），并且改所有的单一园酒酿（包括 Barolo Sperss 葡萄酒）为更低级别的朗格法定认证（Langhe DOC）。正如他指出的那样，“嘉雅巴巴莱斯科开始在比赛中再次赢得奖项。” 多给读者一点资讯可以有助理解这种 “官方”解释。单一园葡萄酒价钱是嘉雅巴巴莱斯科的两倍。除此之外，另一款酒的法定认证也被“降级”。 Barolo Sperss（产自 1988 年购买的葡萄园，该酒名源自皮埃蒙特方言，意思是“乡愁”）也转为朗格内比奥罗法定认证（Langhe Nebbiolo DOC）。根据安哲奴的说法，“这是一个商业上的困难决定，因为撤销巴罗洛(Barolo)这著名酒标是非常不利的”。事实是，所有这四个朗格法定认证都有 6％的巴贝拉 (Barbera)红葡萄，这本身会将他们排除在备受尊崇的 DOCG(意大利法定最高等級认证 )之外。酿酒师里维拉 (Guido Rivella)做出这个决定，因为近年来天气转暖，内比奥罗是一种晚熟葡萄，不能确保酒所需的酸度。最近，Sperss 重新回归了巴罗洛旗下，但并不是以一种明确的或决定性的方式：根据多年来经验，Sperss 可以是巴罗洛或朗格。在使用更普遍的朗格认证三十年之后，单一园酒巴巴莱斯科也自 2013 年起回归。最近，嘉雅家族向非专业游客开放酒厂，这在以前是禁止的。这做法雄心勃勃，具有创新性：参观者向他们选择的慈善机构捐赠 300 欧元，凭借捐款收据，他们可以参观酒厂及品尝其标志性葡萄酒。安哲奴 •嘉雅已经把他的 Midas 手法带到了其本土朗格之外的其他地区。托斯卡纳葡萄酒非同寻常，埃特纳 (Etna)项目也让人充满期待。但绝对顶尖出众的是他的內比奧羅葡萄酒，它具有非常显著的特征，酒体和果味只有黑皮诺或葡萄牙巴加葡萄酒可比美。香味优雅而复杂，它们酒体厚重，具出色的容量感和粘度，既不浓郁也不淡，丰满，细腻，单宁肥厚，口感独特。安哲奴 •嘉雅逐渐将酒庄的愿景和策略传给孩子，这体现出一种强调家庭价值观和传统以及品质和雄心的传承。安哲奴概括自己的人生计划为：“fare; saper fare; saper far fare; fare sapere”（做，知道如何做，知道如何造酒，让人知道），这真是个出色的行动纲领及管理和沟通心得。他重塑了自己所在的葡萄酒产区，毕恭毕敬地革新传统。在此过程中，他重新定义了我们对优质巴罗洛和巴巴莱斯科葡萄酒、意大利葡萄酒和世界葡萄酒品质的期许。喝过一杯嘉雅，葡萄酒迷才算踏上新台阶。 쐽

compared to its peers of a single parcel (lieu-dit, as the French would say): Sorì San Lorenzo (since 1967), Sorì Tildìn (since 1970) and Costa Russi (since 1978). Angelo has always championed his Gaja Barbaresco as “a wine with added complexity, due to the various origins of its grapes, a total of 14 separate vineyards”, and it would annoy him whenever it was called “normal”. A little irate, he’d exclaim: “NORMAL?! We do not make normal wine!” And so, from 1996, he made a drastic decision: he kept his “generic” Gaja (I get anxious just by calling it anything...) on his DOCG Barbaresco, and changed all the lieu-dits (including the Barolo Sperss) to DOC Langhe. As he noted, “that way the Gaja Barbaresco started to win prizes in competitions again”. This “official” explanation can be complemented by a bit more information, which will allow the reader to make up their own mind. The lieu-dits cost twice as much as the Gaja Barbaresco. Besides these, another DOCG was “downgraded”. The Barolo Sperss (from vineyards bought in 1988 whose name means “nostalgia” in Piedmont dialect) also became DOC Langhe Nebbiolo. According to Angelo, “this was a commercially difficult decision, because it is very detrimental to rescind from a prestigious name like Barolo”. The truth is that all these four DOCs Langhe have 6% of Barbera, which in itself would exclude them from the respected DOCGs. The winemaker Guido Rivella made this decision because, with the warmer weather in recent years, the Nebbiolo, a late-ripening grape, couldn’t ensure the desired acidity. More recently still, the Sperss returned to the Barolo denomination, but not in a definitive or decisive way: depending on the years, the Sperss can be Barolo or Langhe.

The lieu-dit Barbarescos also returned from 2013, after three decades of the more general Langhe denomination. Recently, the Gaja family opened its winery to non-professional visitors, which was previously forbidden. Once again, the approach was ambitious and innovative: the visitor donates €300 to a charity of their choice, and with the donation receipt, they have access to the winery and its iconic wines. Angelo Gaja has taken his Midas touch to other regions outside of his native Langhe. The Tuscan wines are extraordinary, and great things are expected from the Etna project. But the absolutely stellar excellence comes from his Nebbiolo wines, which have an extremely marked character, with body and extraction profiles comparable only to a Pinot Noir, or the Portuguese Baga wines. Elegant and complex, they express their body through exceptional volume and viscosity. Neither full nor lightbodied, they are voluminous and gentle, with tannins covered by a layer of fat that make contact with the palate truly sui generis. The vision and strategy of Angelo Gaja, gradually passed down to his children, represent a heritage that emphasises family values and tradition, but also quality and ambition. Angelo sums up his life’s plan: “fare; saper fare; saper far fare; fare sapere” (do; know how to do; know how to make; make known), a brilliant summary of action, management and communication. This is a man who transformed his wine region, innovating respectfully with tradition. In doing so, he re-defined the standards of what we can expect from a great Barolo and Barbaresco wine, from a great Italian wine, from a great world wine. Drinking a glass of Gaja is a milestone for any wine-lover. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 105

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新濠推动构建绿色澳门澳门新濠博亚娱乐有限公司购入 20 辆电动巴士，服务往返其旗舰物业新濠天地、新濠影汇及新濠锋的宾客。零排放的环保车队共有 18 辆旅游巴士及两辆公共巴士款式车辆，并预计于 2018 年 5 月投入服务。新电动巴士车队的初步计划，是运行往返于澳门口岸及澳门码头间的路线。新濠博亚娱乐执行副总裁兼人力资源暨企业社会责任总监高桥明子女士表示：“新濠将继续与澳门特区政府携手合作，缔造绿色澳门。我们希望透过购入及营运我们的零排放车队，发挥最佳资源效用及积极减少营运对环境的影响。”

Melco contribute to build a green Macau Melco Resorts & Entertainment Limited purchase of 20 electric buses to service passengers to, from and between its integrated resort properties City of Dreams, Studio City and Altira Macau. The zero-emission fleet includes eighteen tour coaches and two public bus style vehicles, and is scheduled to begin operations in May 2018. Initial plans for these e-buses are to operate the Macau border gate and Macau Ferry route. Ms. Akiko Takahashi, Executive Vice President, Chief Officer of Human Resources and Corporate Social Responsibility of Melco Resorts & Entertainment, said, “Together with the Macau SAR government, Melco is committed to a greener Macau. With the purchase and forthcoming operation of this zero-emission fleet, we hope to make the most effective use of resources and actively mitigate the impact of our operations on the environment.”

美狮美高梅获得全新殊荣美狮美高梅荣获中国绿色建筑与节能（澳门）协会颁发三星级中国绿色建筑设计标识证书，成为获得该项殊荣的澳门最大型及首座巨型综合建筑，彰显美高梅将可持续发展理念融入建筑设计的决心。颁奖典礼在“2018 年澳门国际环保合作发展论坛及展览”举行，出席嘉宾包括:中国城市科学研究会绿色建筑专家委员会主任王有为先生；中国绿色建筑与节能（澳门）协会会长卓重贤先生；中央人民政府驻澳门特别行政区联络办公室、澳门贸易投资促进局与澳门特别行政区政府环境保护局代表。

MGM Cotai receives new award MGM Cotai has been awarded the Three-Star certification under the China Green Building Design Label by the China Green Building and Energy Saving (Macau) Association today. This makes MGM COTAI the largest property and the first mega-size complex project in Macau to have achieved the Three-Star certification, which is the highest and most prestigious ranking in the Label, recognizing the Company’s commitment to designing a property with environmental sustainability at its heart. The award ceremony took place at the Macao International Environmental Co-operation Forum & Exhibition (MIECF) 2018, with the presence of Mr. Wang Youwei, Director of China Green Building Council; Mr. Albert Chuck, President of the China Green Building and Energy Saving (Macau) Association; representatives from the Liaison Office of the Central People’s Government in the Macao SAR, Macao Trade and Investment Promotion Institute, as well as the Environmental Protection Bureau of the Macao SAR.

106 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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澳博引入新能源巴士澳门博彩控股有限公司（简称“澳博”）引入新能源巴士服务，并将分阶段逐步增加新能源巴士的运行数量，以实际行动支持澳门特区政府的环保政策，积极推动澳门成为绿色城市。澳博新能源巴士为纯电动巴士及压缩天然气巴士，当中包括带立席的巴士，以增加运载力缓解路面交通情况。澳博将密切留意巴士运作情况，适时检讨效果，并继续与澳门特区政府相关部门保持紧密合作。

SJM introduce eco friendly new energy bus service Sociedade de Jogos de Macau,S.A. (“SJM”) introduces new energy shuttle bus service, with the number of new energy buses to be increased by phases to support the environmental policies of the Macau SAR Government and the objective of turning Macau into a green city. The new energy shuttle bus service with electric buses and compressed natural gas (CNG) buses, some of which have provisions for standing passengers for the benefit of extra capacity. SJM also pays attention to the operation of this new shuttle bus service and review its effects in close coordination with the Macau authorities.

万豪致力培养未来女性领袖为了实现万豪国际致力于培养和支持未来女性领袖的承诺，澳门喜来登金沙城中心大酒店和澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店集聚旗下酒店近 50 位资深酒店专业人士以及金沙酒店、澳门 JW 万豪酒店和澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店的同行。澳门喜来登金沙城中心大酒店及澳门瑞吉酒店董事总经理麦俪珍（Janet McNab）表示：“酒店业是一个充满多元化，为所有人提供平等机会的行业。即便如此，依旧没有足够女性担任高级职位。作为全球最大的旅游公司之一，鼓励和培养我们的女性同事建立信心、发展个人品牌和找到自己的定位非常重要。”

Commitment to Empower Future Women Leaders In keeping with Marriott International’s commitment to develop and empower future women leaders, Sheraton Grand Macao Hotel and The St. Regis Macao brought together close to 50 senior hospitality professionals from the two hotels as well as peers from Sands China, JW Marriott Hotel Macau and The Ritz Carlton Macau. “The hospitality industry is one that embraces diversity and presents equal opportunities for all,” said Janet McNab, Managing Director of Sheraton Grand Macao and The St. Regis Macao. “That said, we are still not seeing enough women take on senior positions of leadership. As the world’s largest travel company, it is important that we encourage and empower our female associates to build confidence, develop their personal brand and find a seat for themselves at the table.”

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

108 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2018年 6月- 7月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | JUNE - JULY 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

2017 8-9 39 No. 39 August - September 2017

No. 80 June / July 2017

BASTARDINHO The temporary end of a unique wine O fim provisório de um vinho especial

Summer mood The city's best swimming pools

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER The rebirth of an icon O renascer de um clássico

REAL ESTATE LUXURY BOUTIQUE Quintela e Penalva celebrates 13 years 13 anos de Quintela e Penalva

Clube Militar de Macau Historical paradise

ESSENTIAL Luxury, style, business, people, property, places and more Luxo, estilo, moda, personalidades, imobiliário, negócios e muito mais!

Panthère de Cartier

June-July 2017 €4.00

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50

Returning to life

Mainland China RMB 50