SWIMWEAR SPECIAL GRANNY SHOES
REAL VS FAKE TANS
PACKING FOR YOUR HOLIDAYS
HEBE pg1 of DP
HEBE
Jewellery that’s so you
pg2 of DP
valletta | paola | st. julian’s
B AY S T R E E T, S T. J U L I A N S R E P U B L I C S T R E E T, VA L L E T TA
JUNE ISSUE 173 14 Wardrobe abroad Holiday plans ready? Of course they are. It’s like when you get married – you don’t just draw up your wedding plans in the last three months before the big day. Rather, you would have been dreaming about it for years. And it’s the same with holidays. You don’t sketch out your plans in June – you’ve been trawling the net and planning your summer holidays all winter. Now all you have to do is just pack your bags and fasten your seatbelt. In this issue of FM, we meet Louise Bartolo Parnis, Charlotte Louise Azzopardi and Sandrina Spiteri Gonzi to check out their holiday wardrobe. Don’t expect the usual laidback holiday wear – these ladies are at the top of their fashion game and they’re packing their bags with both style and comfort. In this issue, we also enjoy our days at the beach with a swimwear special. Bianca Darmanin gets the granny shoe fever and gives them a stylish makeover. Lenah Caruana tries on both a real and a fake tan to see which gives the best summer effect while Kira Drury, who has just bagged the Fashion Stylist of the Year award at the Malta Fashion Awards, helps you figure out the best swimwear cuts to suit your figure. A few hundred kilometres away, Romina Farrugia walks the streets of Zurich in search of the latest street fashion. We also meet designers Martina Zammit Maempel and Rosemarie Abela for a chat on style. Read on and enjoy.
What will these three ladies pack for their summer holidays, asks Arabella Hogg.
17 Style stalker Kira Drury celebrates the beautiful season.
21 Step it up Bianca Darmanin takes her only-for-home shoes out for a walk.
22 Beach essentials 25 Ten out of tan With tans, real or fake is the burning question, says Lenah Caruana.
29 Armour and artifice In the 1990s, Cindy Sherman made a movie that no one ever saw. That doesn’t take away from its thrilling, horrifying critique of jewellery as weapons of status-seeking and self-promotion, says cultural critic Dahlia Schweitzer.
Styling Carina Camilleri Hair Pierre Camille Hairdressing Make-up Diandra Mattei using Stage Line make-up Model Anne Marijn at Models M www.models.com.mt wearing an Accessorize bikini top €26.50
Editor Anthony P. Bernard Email: anthony@fmlifestyle.com Consulting Editor Stanley Borg Email: stanley@fmlifestyle.com Design & Art Direction Roderick Peresso www.peresso.com Printing Progress Press
34 Check these stripes For FM, it’s checks, stripes and all patterns nice.
37 Street style Romina Farrugia spells out fashion from A to Zurich.
41 Finding patterns Designer Martina Zammit Maempel would rather feel confident than be a slave to fashion trends.
44 Wave hello FM makes a splash with this season’s swimwear trends.
New Fashion Designer of the year Rosemarie Abela sketches her future plans.
12
Photography Kris Micallef www.krismicallef.com
FM makes is as easy as A, Beach, Sea.
59 Go East
40
COVER CREDITS
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publisher cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
For any information regarding editorial, promotion or advertising contact Tel: 00 356 2131 8522 / 00 44 20 3286 6373 Email: fm@madmediainternational.com FM is published by MADMEDIA International, Mezzanine West, Hadfield House, Library Street, Gibraltar.
8 - FM Issue 173
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FM
NO VEMBE R 2008 –ISSU E 134
In more than three decades, FM has changed a lot. Just like fashion, every season focuses on different cuts and colours. But just like fashion, FM’s aim remains the same – to make you look beautiful, whatever size or age. For Malta’s leading fashion magazine, it’s now time for another change. We’re distributing FM from all leading fashion outlets. That means that while you’re out shopping for the latest trends, you can take a copy of FM to help you create your look.
FMLIFE STYL E.CO M
SUMMER SPECIAL UGLY SHOES
REAL VS FAKE TANS
PACKING FOR YOUR HOLIDAYS
Well-read In every issue of FM, our writers focus on current trends while Malta’s hottest bloggers help you create a look you want. Our photographers make you stop and stare and our stylists put new trends in your wardrobe.
OUTLET
FM is available for free with any purchase from outlets displaying the FM outlet sticker. You’ll also find us at your local fashion outlet or boutique, beauty nail and hair parlours, clinics and pharmacies, firms and practices, cafes, all 5 star hotels and commercial centres. For more info on advertising and distribution call us on 2134 2155 or hello@fmlifestyle.com.
BIRKIRKARA Carpisa Orsay Piazza Italia Tape à l’ Oeil FGURA New Look GZIRA O’Hea Opticians DANIELS COMPLEX, HAMRUN Tom Tailor MOSTA Mexx PAOLA Accessorize, Monsoon Celio Peacocks Sunlab Tally Weijl Tape à l’ Oeil
12 - FM Issue 173
SAN GWANN King Shoe Shop SLIEMA, THE FERRIES Accessorize, Monsoon Carpisa Celio Coccinelle Esprit Gauda Gocco Solaris Sunlab Tally Weijl Tom Tailor THE PLAZA, SLIEMA Jennyfer Scotch & Soda Suiteblanco
THE POINT, SLIEMA Armani Jeans District Esprit Hilfiger Denim Mexx New Look Piazza Italia Sunlab Springfield ST JULIAN’S Arkadia at Portomaso Boss Store Edwards & Lowell Park Towers Supermarket BAY STREET, ST JULIAN’S Armani Jeans King Shoe Shop Jennyfer Mangano Mexx Sunlab Tommy Hilfiger
PACEVILLE Accessorize, Monsoon
ZEBBUG Street Fashion
VALLETTA Accessorize, Monsoon Celio Edwards & Lowell Esprit Hilfiger Denim King Shoe Shop Mexx M&Co Orsay Parfois Peacocks Sunlab Tango Tom Tailor Tommy Hilfiger
GOZO New Look
ENERGY COMPLEX, VALLETTA Tally Weijl Tom Tailor THE SAVOY, VALLETTA Jennyfer
ARKADIA, GOZO All cash points Circle-A Stationery DUKE’S, GOZO Accessorize, Monsoon TIGRIJA PALAZZ, GOZO King Shoe Shop
Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone Marketing tel: 8007 2387
HOLIDAYS
Wardrobe abroad What will these three ladies pack for their summer holidays, asks Arabella Hogg.
S
ummer is finally here and we can sit down and plan our holidays. Apart from choosing our destination, we also need to choose our summer holiday wardrobe, without having to haul our entire belongings across the globe. There are obviously unlimited outfit changes needed (because one outfit a day does not suffice for our inner holiday goddess) so packing cleverly by choosing items that can be worn for many different outfits is a must. I meet three ladies who each have a passion for fashion and their own individual styles to see what they will be packing for their travels.
Louise Bartolo Parnis Louise is a group retail manager in Italy and Austria for Accessorize, Monsoon and Aldo. She is in charge of the store designs, openings and the day to day running of the retail side of the business. Louise and her two sisters Jackie and Theresa have been involved in Monsoon and Accessorize for the last 15 years. Louise worked for them years ago until the company decided to expand abroad to Italy and Austria. Louise’s love of style began when she started working for these fashion brands so early on in life. “From that moment on, I was hooked,” she says. She has a special passion for shoes and jackets. “I am immediately drawn to them when I walk into any shop.” She then shows me into her breathtaking walk-in wardrobe which is a white, brightly lit temple for her belongings. I gasp when I see the floor-to-ceiling wall of shoes. “I get stopped by fashion bloggers all the time for my shoes.” She describes her style as eclectic and drawn to bright colours and interesting prints. What about Louise’s dream holiday destination? “The Maldives or back to Australia – I had a lot of fun there.”
Beach outfit A floor length printed cotton jersey dress from Monsoon “which can be worn with both flats or wedges”, a white cross-body bag from Accessorize, a nautical striped bikini from Victoria’s Secret and a pair of white leather flip-flops from Accessorize.
Lunch outfit A white beaded kimono top from Biba “which I picked up in London”, a classic fedora hat, a pair of shorts and a cami top underneath. “Then I would jazz up the outfit with a statement necklace, which I think are the most important pieces this season.”
Evening outfit A printed silk batwing dress from Diane Von Furstenberg with a pair of purple Topshop heels and a green clutch bag from Accessorize. “I would then wear some big gold hoops to really dress up the outfit.”
14 - FM Issue 173
SYADILOH
Sandrina Spiteri Gonzi Sandrina is a professional ballerina. She left Malta when she was 13 years old to study ballet at a professional level and attended the English National Ballet School. As she passed through her teenage years, she realised that she wanted to start studying. She then returned to Malta where she completed a BA in dance studies. Sandrina is also a very sought-after fashion model and won the prestigious Photo Model of the Year award at the Malta Fashion Awards in 2011. Her sense of style has always been a big part of her life. “I travel a lot and pick up new trends from wherever I go,” she says. The fact that she has always been a creative person and involved in the arts means that being creative transcends throughout her life including her own sense of style. Sandrina describes her style as effortless elegance. “I have completely gone off high heels and now prefer to wear flat bejewelled sandals when I go out.” She is also a self-proclaimed girly-girl, loving anything with frills, bows and lace. Sandrina would love to holiday at some really exotic place like Bora Bora or Bali. “I would love to stay at a luxury resort with my boyfriend soaking up the sun.”
Beach outfit
Charlotte Louise Azzopardi Charlotte is a business management consultant living in Paris. She has been living in this fashion capital for a number of years after having moved there to pursue her dreams. Paris has changed her taste in fashion. “My style has evolved over the years and I’m heavily influenced by Parisian style,” she says, defining her wardrobe as “minimalist and chic.” Charlotte always dresses in simple block colours, which are perfect to mix and match, thus creating completely different outfits with a few staple items. City living for Charlotte means that she dresses more conventionally adding hints of her own style. “As I am in Paris and my career involves visiting financial institutions, I tend to dress more businesslike and conservatively.” When she buys clothes she looks for form rather than colour. “How the clothes fit – the shape and fabric are important to me.” Where is Charlotte off to this summer? “My dream holiday destination are the Greek Islands. However, I’m spending this summer in Boston which I’m really looking forward to.”
A sheer colourful halterneck dress from a boutique in Valletta, a hot pink bikini with butterfly details from Yamamay, gold beaded sandals and a big metallic beach bag from Sicily. “I have just done a lot of my summer shopping, and I can’t wait to get into a bikini.”
Lunch outfit A lace white t-shirt from Miss Selfridge. “Then I would wear a bikini or bandeau top underneath” worn with white denim shorts from Zara and pearl effect sandals.
Evening outfit A floor length black pleated Grecian dress with a gold belt from Miss Selfridge. “I love long black dresses or jumpsuits, they are really elegant and feminine” and a pair of acid green, black and gold sandals from River Island.
Beach outfit A pair of black shorts from Mango, a red cotton top with a chiffon overlay “which I bought in Athens” and a black bikini underneath it.
Lunch outfit A simple blue dress from Nadine, a Tommy Hilfiger scarf “which was a gift from my friend and which I found went perfectly with this dress”, a nude clutch from Topshop, sunglasses from Sonia Rykiel, a chunky silver Pomellato 67 necklace and some nude court shoes from Massimo Dutti “which go with absolutely everything.”
Evening outfit A pair of black snake-effect satin finish trousers from Maje, a nude multi-layer chiffon top from Zara, a black bag from Longchamp “which was a present from my boyfriend – I absolutely love it!” and simple black court shoes.
FM Issue 173 - 15
EST. LONDON 1984 Sliema • Valletta • Main Street, Paola • The Axis, Paceville • The Duke, Gozo T. 2134 6080 accessorizemalta
STYLE
Style stalker Kira Drury celebrates the beautiful season.
The Malta Fashion Awards
Top left to right: Models line up before show; Tiffany Pisani in Charles & Ron; Backstage prep; Manuel in Parascandalo Marco; Amy in Caroline Hili; Sarah backstage at Caroline Hili; Gaby at the International Designers show; With Daniel Azzopardi at The Fashion Awards.
Secret garden May was a busy month in both the fashion and beauty worlds. I spent an evening at the launch of Dolce, a new fragrance by Dolce & Gabbana. Villa Bologna was the perfect location for the evening, held in the garden surrounded by flowers and a cool Mediterranean breeze. The setting went hand in hand with the soft floral scent of Dolce. A mix of neroli leaves, papaya flower and a unique and opulent combination of white water lily and bold white daffodil, the perfume encapsulates Sicily, romance and femininity. The beautiful campaign was shot by Domenico Dolce himself and stars supermodel Kate King. The perfect fragrance for the summer, it’ll keep you wanting more and more – deliciously addictive!
May was one heck of a fun month thanks to Malta Fashion Week and ending with the Malta Fashion Awards. I am super happy and proud to announce that I walked away with the award for Fashion Stylist of the year. It was something I really was not expecting and it showed in my fumbling acceptance speech. I intend to make the most of the next year and again want to thank everyone I have had the pleasure to work with, especially Adrian Mizzi and all the organisers of the event and Miss Selfridge for sponsoring me on the night. An extra special thanks goes to FM’s Anthony Bernard who let me style my first fashion shoot for this very magazine 10 years ago. Here are some of my favourite snaps of the week’s festivities curtsy of the ever-talented photographer Steven Vella. Until next year!
River Island opening Another super-store has hit our shores in the shape of the ever-trendy River Island. I was invited to a special preview of the new outlet at The Point, Sliema. River Island is one of the most successful companies on the high street, with nearly 300 stores internationally. Know for its stylish and affordable fashion and unique touches, River Island is adored by fashionistas and celebrities the world over. The new store stocks both women and menswear, accessories and shoes. It’s the perfect place to pick up everything you need for a head-to-toe look. Check out some of my in-store Instagram snaps and don’t forget you can follow me on Instagram @kiradrury for more fashion news, updates and inspiration.
FM Issue 173 - 17
ELYTS
Beach babes It’s tanning time ladies, so lets hit the beach and soak up the sun. We girls come in all shapes and sizes and sometimes it can be daunting trying to figure out what works best for our body types. Here’s my guide to buying the best cuts to flatter your figure. All that’s left to do is hit the shops. • If you are petite look for something cut high on the leg to create the illusion of height. • If you want to keep your tummy under wraps, a tankini is a great alternative to a swimsuit and you can roll it up while you are sunbathing, which you cannot do with a swimsuit. • If you are busty avoid extra padding and opt for underwiring and thick straps for extra support. • If you’re more confident with your top rather than your bottom half, opt for something that draws the eye upwards, such as a plain bottom and a printed or bright top. • If you’re flat chested look for ruffles which will give the illusion of more shape. • If you are lean and straight, boy shorts will create more shape and help achieve an hourglass figure. • If you love your boobies than opt for a halter top as it draws attention to the area. • The best way to look beautiful on the beach is to love your body and ooze confidence – so concentrate on the things you love about your body and push aside your doubts.
The CFDAs: who wore what • Rihanna takes the term ‘if you’ve got it, flaunt it’ to a whole new level in Adam Selman. • Blake Lively shows off her amazing legs in a 1960s inspired Michael Kors number. • Coco Rocha looked amazing in monochrome in this Christian Siriano masterpiece (best dressed). • Alessandra Ambrosio does supermodel chic in a red satin floor length grown by Nonoo. • Jessica Stan looks strong and chic in this Giulietta jumpsuit.
18 - FM Issue 173
New
HALF THE SUGAR & CALORIES
OF A REGULAR SOFT DRINK
Great Kinnie taste with a tangy orange twist with sugar and sweetener: Stevia – Sweet taste from a natural source
/kinnie.mt
www.kinnie.com
ELYTS
Step it up Bianca Darmanin takes her only-for-home shoes out for a walk.
F
ar from everyone’s cup of tea, and labelled worldwide as granny shoes, it’s no surprise that the return of chunky cork shoes will be overlooked with disapproving smirks. However, the stylish renaissance of flatforms and Birkenstocks, a.k.a ugly shoes, is spreading like wildfire. Celine’s 2013 spring/summer collection has something to do with it when creative designer Phoebe Philo sent out models wearing a luxe reinterpretation of the famous Arizona sandals. And just like that, we’ve all become obsessed with your only-for-home shoes, including myself. Keep the look chic with a fresh pedicure. Also, style them with tailored, bold and minimalistic outfits such as body-con skirts, or more edgy pieces such as distressed jeans or shorts for the hot season. Don’t add too much colour or prints unless you want to look like an 80-year-old version of yourself. Slide on sandals are the most versatile pair you can go for. T-bone, crossovers or simple straps are perfect for a lazy summer day at the beach or a rendezvous with your shopping list. For more of Bianca’s looks visit www.thefashioncarousel.com
“Style them with tailored, bold and minimalistic outfits.”
FM Issue 173 - 21
FASHION
Beach essentials FM makes is as easy as A, Beach, Sea.
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For her
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1. M&CO SEQUIN MULE SANDALS, €28 | 2. PEACOCKS BEACH DRESS, €32 | 3. ACCESSORIZE TRIBAL JEWEL TRIANGLE BIKINI. TOP, €28.90, BRIEF, €24.90 | 4. BHS MOTION FLORAL PRINT MAXI SARONG SKIRT, €27.50 | 5. BHS BUTTERFLY BEACH TOWEL, €25 | 6. PEACOCKS HAT, €12.50 | 7. SUITEBLANCO SANDALS, €13.99 | 8. BHS BLUE HOLIDAY SHOP FLORAL PRINT WEDGE FLIP FLOPS, €12 | 9. PEACOCKS FLIP FLOPS, €4 | 10 - 11. CARPISA BEACH BAG WITH FLOWER DETAIL, LARGE €19.90, SMALL €15.90 | 12. CARPISA BACKPACK, €25.90
For him 1. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHIRT | 2. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHIRT | 3. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHORTS | 4. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHORTS | 5. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHORTS, IN 100% COTTON. COMES WITH A BRIGHT SURPRISE IN THE ROLL UPS | 6. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHORTS, MID-LENGTH CUT AND DRAWSTRING WAIST | 7. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHORTS FEATURING AN ALL OVER HAWAII-INSPIRED PRINT, MID-LENGTH CUT AND DRAWSTRING WAIST | 8. TOMMY HILFIGER DUFFLE BAG, €149.90
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1. GUESS, €114 | 2. OAKLEY TWOFACE – FERRARI EDITION, €179 | 3. SQUARE DEAL, €4.95 | 4. SQUARE DEAL, €7.95 | 5. OAKLEY GARAGE ROCK – FERRARI EDITION, €149 | 6. MICHAEL KORS, €222 | 7. LACOSTE, €178
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When the evening comes 1. ACCESSORIZE BEACH FLORAL FRINGE KIMONO, €65 | 2. ACCESSORIZE EMBROIDERED DRESS, €45 | 3. M&CO FEATHER PRINT SKIRT DRESS, €38 | 4. NEW LOOK NECKLACE | 5. CARPISA BAG WITH FRONT ZIP, €25.90 | 6. CARPISA BAG WITH STUD AND STONE DETAIL, €35.90 | 7. CARPISA BAG WITH DOUBLE ZIP, €25.90 | 8. CARPISA PRINCESS BAG, €39.90. | 9. NEW LOOK HANDBAG | 10. MICHAEL KORS, €199 | 11. NEW LOOK HANDBAG | 12. NEW LOOK SANDALS 9
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MANGANO MANGANO
Shop and cafe - Level 1 Baystreet
Ten out of tan
BEAUTY
With tans, real or fake is the burning question, says Lenah Caruana.
“L
ook at you, so tanned. Did you just get back from a holiday?” Without a doubt, this question is always exclaimed in a positive way and is associated with time off, holidays, long hours at the beach and happy faces. Any negative thoughts of skin conditions, sun burns or harmful chemicals seem very far away. However these scary thoughts might pop up when we see someone with a fair complexion suddenly looking a bit too dark, or worse, strangely orange. You’ll probably know if you’ve done it right because complementing someone’s natural tan is basically today’s way of saying you look healthy and fresh. So in this case, the essential part is knowing your skin type for people to react with a smile rather than with the look of someone who is trying to solve a tough math problem. Ever since it became fashionable for young women to opt for a tanned skin tone rather than a pale complexion, there’s been no limit as to how far we go for that perfect summer glow. This phenomenon and hype has turned into a billion dollar industry and there seems to be no end to how much time and money we are willing to spend to achieve the perfect tan. However, with a little bit of awareness and the approach of less is more, we can continue to relate this subject to something positive. Spending time outdoors in natural sunlight is proven to have a very positive effect on our health and general well-being. The important thing however, is knowing just how much time we can spend in direct sunlight as overexposure can result in skin burn, premature ageing, wrinkles and sun spots. When we expose ourselves to the UV rays from the sun, we gain the important benefit of Vitamin D which helps our body to absorb calcium, promotes a good immune system, maintains optimal blood pressure levels and decreases the risk of developing conditions such as chronic inflammation, muscle and bone pain and certain types of cancer. For people suffering from skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, spending time in the sun is helpful as UVB exposure slows the rapid rate of growth and shedding of the skin cells. A vitamin D deficiency can lead to negative health effects – it’s clear that a daily dose of sun is vital for our well-being, whether you are opting for a tanned skin or not. Over a billion people worldwide suffer from vitamin D deficiency because we spend less time in the sun today than at any other time in history. When you know you will be outdoors for a longer period of time in direct sun or heat, find ways to cover the most exposed areas of your body with light clothing or a hat, to avoid getting burned. Sunglasses with proper UV protection are also recommended in order to protect your eyes, but apart from that, enjoy the sun. If the sun is not shining down on you, depending on where you live or change from summer to winter season, another solution is to spend a few
“Spending time outdoors in natural sunlight is proven to have a very positive effect on our health and general well-being.” minutes on a tanning bed. The UV lights in tanning beds are said to provide a small dose of vitamin D – however many people tend to overdo it and thus increase the risk of getting burned. In these cases you end up with very little advantages and a fake-looking tan. The subject of tanning beds is always up for debate and many people argue that they are not a safe way to get a tan while others claim that responsible use of the recommended low-pressure beds – where electronic ballasts rather than magnetic are used – is a safe way to get rid of a wintery white skin and at the same time also getting a dose of Vitamin D. For many people living in colder countries, resorting to tanning beds is also a way to warm up and relax. Another popular way to get a bit of colour is using spray-on tans. This is a good option for those living in places with very little daily sunlight or for anyone looking to freshen up during gloomy winter days. It can be done in a professional tanning salon or bought as a DIY product. In both cases, the benefit is the instant result as opposed to spending hours at the beach and a spray tan will give you an even-looking tan and a fresh youthful appearance. Above all, there’s no need to worry about the sun shining or not. All you need is a little time. Sounds very convenient, so why not always opt for the quick result of a spray-on tan? Well, unfortunately there are a few downsides to this option as with anything that sounds too good to be true. Spray tans contain a whole list of chemicals which have not been thoroughly tested for longterm use and whether you get it in a salon or at home, take great care not to breathe in the fumes and make sure to wear eye protection. It’s also not safe to use for pregnant women as the spray contains lead and mercury, and it’s not yet known how this may affect the baby. The conclusion is simple. As with everything in life, obtaining a healthy and natural result requires us to do things in moderation and with a good dose of common sense. For more beauty tips visit www.lenahcaruana.com.
FM Issue 173 - 25
Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone Marketing tel: 8007 2387
Experience this new fragrance and receive a Lacoste clutch bag when purchasing edp 90ml Or a Lacoste toiletry pouch when purchasing edp 50ml.
Offer valid while stock lasts. Available from authorised outlets only.
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ACCESSORIES
Armour and artifice In the 1990s, Cindy Sherman, one of the world’s most respected photographers and a primary inspiration for artists ranging from Madonna to James Franco, made a movie that no one ever saw. That doesn’t take away from its thrilling, horrifying critique of jewellery as weapons of status-seeking and self-promotion. Now, in an excerpt from her latest book, cultural critic Dahlia Schweitzer takes a stab at revealing this provocative bit of art history. Magazine executive Virginia’s gold jewellery shines bright, even during Office Killer’s darkest moments, signalling status and authority. Photo courtesy of Miramax Films.
I
n 1997, a small film came and went with hardly any fuss or attention. Titled Office Killer, it was directed by well-known American photographer Cindy Sherman. A feature-film first-timer, Sherman’s fame, status, and respectability were the result of her Untitled Film Stills series. In it, she acted as her own model, portraying a wide array of familiar-looking characters in familiar-looking movies that never actually happened. So she was an obvious choice for producers who, like most of their colleagues in Hollywood during this time, were turning to the art world for fresh directorial talent. Despite a stellar cast and a smart grasp on the social and cultural issues of the time, Office Killer flopped. There are many reasons why: it featured an all-female cast; it combined horror, comedy, and melodrama in unorthodox ways; Miramax chose not to promote or widely release it; and other reasons detailed in my forthcoming book on the subject. For now, let’s focus on Office Killer, a film about women in
the workplace – their dramas, rivalries, and personalities – as a set piece exploring the role and relevance of accessories in workplace power plays. The first time we see Virginia Wingate (Barbara Sukowa), editor-in-chief of Constant Consumer magazine, we notice two things: black fingernails and gold everywhere. She wears it around her neck and wrists, dripping and dangling off her ears, even around the third finger of her left hand. This rare metal has always stood for power, wealth, and status. What better way to communicate her position in the company and her own life? As we watch Virginia berate underling Norah Reed (Jeanne Tripplehorn), we remain riveted by her black talons, those flashes of gold. Norah, with her pale pink nails, only has one accessory: a gold ring. Earring-less, necklace-less, braceletless, she is clearly also powerless. Knock-off Chanel suits, all rather poorly fitted, complete the picture of a bitter, desperate, second-in-command corporate embezzler.
FM Issue 173 - 29
SEIROSSECCA
While the Office Killer poster evoked standard-issue slasher-flick motifs, the film itself contained elements of comedy and satire that made it difficult to market. Photo courtesy of Miramax Films. The cover of Schweitzer’s new book features anti-hero Dorine (Carol Kane), whose accessories are poached from the bodies of murdered co-workers. Photo courtesy of Intellect Books.
When we finally meet mousy protagonist Dorine Douglas (Carol Kane), we know she’s mousy because (aside from a pair of thick-lensed eyeglasses) she’s wearing no accessories. That hair, pulled into a bun, that baggy sweater, all just icing on the cake. Without accessories, we know that, even more than Norah, she’s without power. (Yet.) As her strength builds, she acquires accessories. Of particular significance is how she acquires them: from the colleagues she kills on her rise to the top, confiscating elements of their personalities while she’s at it. By contrast, office rival Kim Poole (Molly Ringwald) begins the film with power and eventually loses it. Appropriately enough, she begins the film heavily accessorised, most interestingly with earrings, shaped like small silver swords, foreshadowing the duel soon to take place. To define Kim’s status as beta to Virginia’s alpha, her accessories are cast not in gold but rather in silver. As if to demonstrate her power over Norah, in addition to those dagger-like earrings, Kim also has a flashy silver bracelet and a conspicuously sparkly silver ring. In their mundane office, where the lighting is fluorescent, the atmosphere grim, the outfits muddy brown, she stands out as much because of her personal style as her brash, defiant personality. All of this foreshadowing – who will rise and who will fall – is communicated within the first 10 minutes into the movie. And it’s all done with accessories. In the real world, specifically female-dominated white-collar workplaces, accessories convey power and station with only slightly less drama than in Office Killer. They’re our modern-day talismans, instant reflections of our alliances and allegiances. Gold-wearers are the ones in charge; fans of silver and turquoise more centred and soulful; those who dare to mix and match more likely to forge their own path in other areas as well. It’s important for all women to remember that accessories aren’t just about looking good. They’re secret weapons we can use to establish our power(s) and assert our identit(ies), over and over again, every time we get dressed for work.
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Dahlia Schweitzer is a writer, thinker, curator, professor, and PhD student at UCLA. This article was excerpted and adapted from her latest book, Cindy Sherman’s Office Killer: Another Kind of Monster, now available from Intellect Books via amazon. co.uk. For more information, visit www.thisisdahlia.com.
PROMO
robe Got-shirt tropical € € 25.99 9.99 Have fun in the sun with Jenny’s tropi cool trend.
short 15.99€ This season, the tropi cool trend at Jennyfer exudes summer style with fun tropical prints. The looks are mini shorts and skirts, confident bohemian with long, flowing skirts and dresses and the ultra-feminine printed tube skirt to match up with the great selection of printed crop tops.
The Savoy Arcade, Level 1, Valletta, tel: 2122 7073 Arkadia, Gozo, tel: 2210 3318, The Plaza Shopping Centre, Level 0, Sliema, tel: 2132 3102 Bay Street Shopping Complex, Level 0, St Julian’s, tel: 2137 7185 www.fb.com/jennyfermalta | www.jennyfer.com
FM Issue 173 - 33
FASHION
Check these stripes For FM, it’s checks, stripes and all things nice.
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FOR HIM 1. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHIRT | 2. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHIRT | 3. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SHIRT. LINEN AND COTTON QUALITY, RELAXED FIT AND SLEEVE HOLDERS | 4. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SWIM SHORTS | 5. SQUARE DEAL SHORTS, €19.95. | 6. SCOTCH AND SODA BY JUNCTION SWIM SHORTS. STARRING A COLOUR BLOCK DESIGN, SHORTER LENGTH AND A COTTON BLEND FABRIC FOR HER 1. TOMMY HILFIGER ASHLEY SHOES €129.90 | 2. NEW LOOK DRESS, €29.99 | 3. NEW LOOK DRESS, €29.99 | 4. NEW LOOK TOP, €22.99 | 5. GILET BY SQUARE DEAL, €15.95 | 6. ACCESSORIZE FLORAL TROUSERS, €42 | 7. SKIRT BY SQUARE DEAL, €19.95 | 8. NEW LOOK SKIRT, €22.99 | 9. TOP BY SQUARE DEAL, €12.95
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NOW IS THE TIME FOR YOU TO GO WILD!
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AgfaPhoto, a world leading German Brand in advanced imaging products introduces Wild Thing action cameras - high quality, innovative, easy to use and affordable. WILD THING MALTA
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actioncam.agfaphoto.com FM Issue 173 - 35
STYLEWISE
Street style Romina Farrugia spells out fashion from A to Zurich.
Massimiliano
Nicholas
Valerie
What is your favourite trend right now? I don’t follow fashion to the letter. I’m focused on having a unique style. This is my fashion statement.
What is your favourite trend right now? Jeans shirts with pearls, skinny jeans and ripped jeans.
What is your favourite trend right now? Studs and also the fact that fashion is more wearable and comfy.
What is your favourite label? My favourite designer is Armani.
What is your favourite label? Guess.
What is your favourite label? I don’t have a favourite label.
Perfume to wear? Candy by Prada.
Perfume to wear? Alien by Thierry Mugler.
Perfume to wear? Daisy by Marc Jacobs
Maria
Martina
What is your favourite trend right now? I love the chained cardigan I’m wearing. I’m also into spike and gemstone necklaces at the moment.
What is your favourite trend right now? I like the printed t-shirts trend, especially those with photos of old film stars or animals.
What is your favourite label? Burberry.
What is your favourite label? Guess.
Perfume to wear? Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.
Perfume to wear? Poison by Dior.
Beatrice
What is your favourite trend right now? I like the fact that Timberland boots are big right now and although I’m not wearing them today, I do own a pair. What is your favourite label? Diesel and Superdry. Perfume to wear? One Million by Paco Rabanne. FM Issue 173 - 37
PROMO The sea in summer
Go wild Introducing the Wild Thing, Agfaphoto’s high quality and affordable answer to the Go Pro. There’s a model to suit everyone’s budget with prices starting from €85 inclusive of all accessories. Find out more at www.avantech.com.mt or on the Wild Thing Malta Facebook page or call on 2148 8800.
Inspired by vacations and fun on the water, Carolina Herrera is launching the fragrant new pair: 212 Surf for him and for her. The limited edition duo will provide two new compositions inspired by sea aromas, excitement and summer friendships. The line is fresh, youthful and carefree, a collection that retells a fun, characteristic story inspired by summer memories. 212 Surf for Her Eau De Toilette 60ml opens with aromatic notes of seawater and air, wrapping a pleasant blend of wood and musk. 212 Surf for Him Eau De Toilette 100ml provides aromatic marine aromas mixing with sparkling grapefruit and patchouli.
Shoes with passion
Delicate seduction
Pikolinos shoes have a lot of personality. Each shoe is unique, which is why they apply all of their experience and expertise to the craftsmanship that seals in the shoe’s personality. They identify with the Mediterranean lifestyle and are designed to be high-quality, comfortable footwear. Leather is the star of their shoes – it receives only natural treatments that leave it super soft. Each shoe is produced using raw (non-dyed) leather and is subsequently filled with colour using a 100 per cent chrome-free process. As a result, they respect both your skin and the environment. All Pikolinos shoes are 100 per cent Spanish-made. Exclusively available from King Shoe Shop in San Gwann, Valletta, Baystreet, Gozo and Tower Shoes in Sliema. To view the full collection, visit www.kingshoeshop.net or find King Shoe Shop on Facebook.
Dolce heralds an emotional and sensory journey through the heart of Dolce&Gabbana’s DNA: Sicily. In the same antique mirror that was hanging in the tailor shop of Domenico’s father in Polizzi Generosa, near Palermo, and that today is in the designers’ office, the reflections of emotions and traditional values come back to life. The feminine mix of white flowers is introduced by the freshness of neroli leaves and defined by white amaryllis. Receive a beautiful handbag mirror with the purchase of an EDP 75ml or a dainty bracelet when purchasing an EDP 50ml. Offer valid while stocks last from authorised retailers only. For local trade enquiries, call free phone VJ Salomone (Marketing) 8007 2387.
A warm evening breeze Following last year’s launch of signature fragrance for women, Eau de Lacoste, Lacoste introduces the perfect evening partner to draw out your sensual side – Eau de Lacoste Sensuelle. What happens when day turns into night? Feminine and sensual, Eau de Lacoste Sensuelle recreates the feeling of the evolution from a sunny day to a cool and refreshing evening – the spirit of Lacoste is playfully and sensually transformed into a bottle, perfect for the evening. For local trade enquiries, call free phone VJ Salomone (Marketing) 8007 2387.
Look here The Air Optix family of contact lenses provide clear and consistently comfortable vision from one to 30 days. Creating a protective layer of moisture at the surface and resist irritating deposits that can cause other contact lenses to feel dry and less comfortable. Available in Standard, Astigmatic and Multifocal you will find the right lenses for you. Use this together with the all new Pure Moist Solution for even better comfort. Tel: 2381 1000, info@classoptical.com.
Step this way
In full colour Alcon is introducing the new Air Optix colour contact lenses. With the superior breathability technology of the Air Optix lens, these lenses come with up to six times more oxygen than leading colour contact lenses. The three-in-one colour technology blends beautifully for a complete natural effect. Even if your vision is perfect, you can experience a new look. Available in leading optical shops and pharmacies in a large variety of different colours to suit your style. Tel: 2381 1000, info@classoptical.com.
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Check out Gauda’s new summer collections offering a vast selection of styles and colours to choose from. Gauda are also offering a selection of stylish bags and belts to complete your dazzling outfits, So what are you waiting for? Head down to Gauda in Bisazza Street, Sliema (Tel: 2134 6957) and Manuel Dimech Street, Sliema (Tel: 2133 6985). www.fb.com/GaudaSliema.
MANGANO Shop and cafe - Level 1 Baystreet
DESIGN
Finding patterns Designer Martina Zammit Maempel would rather feel confident than be a slave to fashion trends.
THE DIET COKE AND MODELS M FASHION SHOW AT MALTA DESIGN WEEK, HAIR BY PIERRE CAMILLE, MAKE-UP BY KIDA AT NYX COSMETICS, PHOTOS BY BEN CAMILLE AT CAPTURE.COM.MT.
What or who fuelled your interest in fashion? I always remember being creative as a child – I spent a lot of my time experimenting with sewing, art, pottery and other crafts. My great-grandfather was a well known artist, Giuseppe Cali, and I often remember my father reminding me that my interest in art must come from him, which made me even more keen. Over the years I became quite obsessed with following fashion but knew that in Malta there was little I could do to turn it into a career. I had modelled in a shoot when I was around 19 and the stylist was talking about where she studied fashion in London and about her course and it got me thinking. At the time I was reading for a degree in law – however, I soon started thinking of ways how to switch over to fashion, much to my parents’ disapproval. Some months later I had saved up enough to sign up for a summer course at Central Saint Martins in London. I finally could start living my dream. When did you start sketching your first designs? I was probably around 16 when I first started sketching fashion ideas. However I loved hand-me-down clothes as a child, and would cut up and transform these even at the age of nine or 10. What did your wardrobe look like when you were young? As a young teen, I went through a matchy-matchy phase where my
entire wardrobe and most of my outfits were sickeningly colour coded. I loved designer clothing and gave it way too much importance. Skirts were sometimes a little too short, but overall I think the fashion mag obsession served its purpose and kept my wardrobe quite tame. And what does it look like now? My current wardrobe is quite classic. It’s a mix of many investment pieces, such as nice coats, jeans, dresses and shirts, together with high street, brighter, more fun options that I use for a season or two and then get rid of. I also have a growing scarf collection, mostly from companies I’ve worked with. I love using beautiful, printed scarves to brighten up an otherwise classic, plain outfit. I have also run out of space where to store my shoes. What trends will you be wearing this season? To be very honest, I don’t really follow trends. After working in the industry for years and learning all the gossip behind what drives the fashion magazines I so used to love to buy, I’m no longer interested in them. Instead I’ve learned what shapes suit my body and what colours I feel good in and generally look for upgraded options of the same season on season. This may seem pretty boring for a designer – but I’ve come to realise I would rather feel confident than be a slave to fashion trends.
FM Issue 173 - 41
NGISED
Photo by Chris Agius Burke
You debuted your collection last month. What was the feedback? The feedback was great. That evening was a blur of excitement, many smiles and congratulations and it was so nice to hear everyone’s positive feedback as well as constructive criticism about the show. Some remaining pieces are still being sold and I’ve seen a couple of women wearing my designs at recent weddings I’ve attended, which is very gratifying. Are you working on your next collection? Not yet. My first collection came about quite suddenly and it’s something I didn’t plan to do so soon. I’m still settling and trying to find reliable people to work with and learning from my recent experiences so when I feel I’m ready to do it again, I will. What are your main sources of inspiration? Every season or collection needs a fresh source of inspiration. Whatever the theme, I find myself gravitating towards patterns, be they stone carvings from Aztec times or wallpaper, carpet designs or Art Deco tiles, I like looking at things which are not obviously related to fashion and form some sort of geometrical shape or loose design and from these I choose interesting sections on which I will subtly base a design, or part of one.
Martina Zammit Maempel Age: 28 Education: Introduction to Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins, London, degree in Fashion Design from Istituto Marangoni specialising in womenswear and women’s accessories. Profession: Freelance fashion designer in Malta and temp wholesale executive for London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks.
The muses Miuccia Prada She is stylish and fashionable yet never overdoes it. She dresses for her age but would inspire outfits in someone a lot younger. She injects enormous amounts of creativity into her work yet it is still very commercial and that is something that is very tough to achieve.
Erdem Moralioglu
Kinnie Vita; 50% less sugar and calories with no artificial sweeteners Kinnie Vita, has just been launched onto the market a new variant of Kinnie which contains only half the sugar and calories of regular soft drinks. Kinnie Vita has a great Kinnie taste with a tangy orange twist. Moreover, Kinnie Vita contains no artificial sweeteners as the reduction in sugar has been achieved by using a totally natural, Stevia-based, alternative. The Kinnie Vita fits in perfectly with today’s lifestyle choices and will initially be available in convenient 50 Cl PET bottles.
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I worked for Erdem for six months and so I learned quite a lot about him. He came to the limelight through winning a fashion competition in London and just grew and grew, solely because he is talented and has a clear vision. He still has not been bought by one of the big fashion groups and has chosen to remain as an individual company, which is respectable as his main aim is to create and not to lose sight of what he is doing in exchange for larger pay cheques.
Isabel Marant For making her style a worldwide success. Her clothes do not change so much season on season – it is a very wearable, identifiable style which is not at all overdone and always so very cool.
TRENDS
Wave hello
AQUA BENDITA
AQUARELLA
FM makes a splash with this season’s swimwear trends.
LOLLI SWIM
MARA HOFFMAN
Best feet forward
Walk this way with this summer’s hottest footwear. 1
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o you’ve spent your winter at the gym, toning your body for maximum summer flaunting at the beach. Now all you need is the right swimwear. From sporty and glamorous to feminine and black, this season’s swimwear trends have something for everyone. Let’s start with prints and patterns. Michael Kors showed exotic and animal prints for SS14 while the Mara Hoffman collection is inspired by tribal designs – plenty of roar for summer. But exotic is not the only way to go. This season, retro vibes and paradise prints have made a welcome return – perfect for a pool party. The sports luxe trend that we so loved last winter carries on for the hot season. Look out for sports-inspired detailing as well as bold and sporty colours. BCBGeneration, for instance, went for thin straps at the waist and neck. Surfing is also an inspiration, with surf and botanical prints making a big appearance. For the more feminine inclined, there are some pretty swimwear prints: both Bottega Veneta and Zimmermann showcased girly flourishes on their catwalk. For extra detailing, go for bows and flirty frills. Lolli Swim went for frilly bottoms while the A.Che collection features plenty of tassels. But don’t go overboard – opt for detailing on one piece not both. Black never goes away, and for this season, it’s combined with extra details in the cut, especially asymmetrical cuts and straps. Cut-outs will also be a firm favourite: Minimale Animale showed off some hot numbers while the Aquarella catwalk featured chic cut-out bikinis in royal blue. Pretty. Other shades include bright and vibrant colours such as neon fuchsia. You don’t need to go for one colour – opt for a mix and match of vivid tops and bottoms for maximum temperature.
NICOLITA
Blog watch
The who, what, why, wear of the net. www.fabsugar.com The kind of sugar that makes you look good. www.jakandjil.com …went up the hill in plenty of style. www.missmoss.co.za From South Africa with style.
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FOR HIM 1. ARMANI JEANS FLIP FLOP €83.75 | 2. ARMANI JEANS FLIP FLOP €49 | 3. TOMMY HILFIGER BAY FLIP FLOP €34.90 | 4. TOMMY HILFIGER GERRY ESPADRILLES €49.90
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FOR HER 5. ACCESSORIZE STRAP SANDALS €28.90 | 6. NEW LOOK PLIMSOLLS €19.99 | 7. NEW LOOK PLIMSOLLS €24.99 | 8. PEACOCKS FLIP FLOP €14.50 | 9. ARMANI JEANS FLAT SANDALS €83.75 | 10. ARMANI JEANS WEDGE €198.75
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SDNERT
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• Bum bags – are we really ready for their return? • Overcrowded beaches – get your own stretch of sand. • The silly season – don’t be too silly.
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• Emily Blunt wearing Prada. Red and gorgeous. • Rosie Huntington-Whiteley wearing a yellow Emilio Pucci number at the Amfar gala. • Crop-tops – flaunt a flat tummy.
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CROP-TOPS AT MAX AZRIA
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Beach buddies
Make friends with these beach companions.
1. ACCESSORIZE BANDEAU BIKINI, BRIEF €18.90, TOP €26.50 | 2. ACCESSORIZE BANDEAU BIKINI, TOP €18.90, BRIEF €23.50 | 3. SUITEBLANCO BIKINI 2, €17.99 | 4. SUITEBLANCO BIKINI, €17.99 | 5. SQUARE DEAL 2, €19.95 | 6. BHS ZEBRA PRINT TUMMY CONTROL SWIMSUIT, €38 | M&CO ANIMAL FLORAL PRINT SWIMSUIT, €35 | 8. SQUARE DEAL, €7.95 | 9. PEACOCKS BIKINI BOTTOM, €6.50 | 10. M&CO YUCATAN PRINT BEADED BIKINI, TOP €22.50, BOTTOMS €20 | 11. PEACOCKS BIKINI, TOP €14.50, BOTTOM €6.50
ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY
EMILY BLUNT
mix & Match by ESPRIT
1. ARMANI JEANS BEACH BAG €75 | 2. NEW LOOK BAG €22.99 3. CARPISA BEACH BAG €15.90 | 4. SQUARE DEAL TOP €9.95 5. TOMMY HILFIGER BEACH TOWEL €69.90 | 6. SUITEBLANCO HAT €13.99
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ALL THAT SHE WANTS PHOTOGRAPHY
STYLING
HAIR
MAKE-UP
MODEL
KRIS MICALLEF
CARINA CAMILLERI
PIERRE CAMILLE
DIANDRA MATTEI
ANNE MARIJN
HAIRDRESSING
USING STAGELINE MAKE-UP
AT MODELS M
WWW.KRISMICALLEF.COM
FEATURING
LEO, MIA & AMY
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FM Issue 173 ANNE MARIJN – ARMANI JEANS SHORTS €135; TOP €110 | GAUDA SHOES €99 | ACCESSORIZE BRACELETS FROM €15.90 EACH | PHOEBE - HER OWN COAT
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ANNE MARIJN – BHS SKIRT €22.50 EACH | VERSACE SUNGLASSES AT OPTIKA €214 LEO – PEACOCKS VEST €12.95 MIA – MONSOON TOP €90 | ARMANI JEANS BAG €100; SANDALS €182.50
ANNE MARIJN – ACCESSORIZE BIKINI TOP €26.50 | M& CO SKIRT €57.50
ANNE MARIJN – JENNYFER BIKINI €9.59; SOCKS €4.99; SCARF €3 | PARFOIS BAG €25.90
ANNE MARIJN – ESPRIT DRESS €49.99 | MEXX BAG €39.95 | DESIGUAL SHOES €124.90 | CHANEL SUNGLASSES AT OPTIKA €384 LEO – MODEL’S OWN AMY – WOMEN’S SECRET AT SPRINGFIELD PETTICOAT €24.95 MIA – NEW LOOK SKIRT €17.95 | ESPRIT VEST €19.99 | SPRINGFIELD BROOCHES (worn on hair) €1.80 EACH
ANNE MARIJN – SUITEBLANCO TRENCH COAT €67
LAST WORD
Go East
Photos by Kurt Paris
New Fashion Designer of the year Rosemarie Abela sketches her future plans.
What first fuelled your interest in fashion? I’ve always had the same dream in my mind playing over and over again: to design clothes. My dream started when I used to sit and watch my mother sewing wedding dresses for my cousins and family members. I was just three years old and I would get inspired by my mother and make dresses for my dolls. Do you remember your first sketches? Yes, definitely. They were amateur sketches as, at the time, I hadn’t studied fashion design formally. All my designs now have a theme and a solid foundation of theory, practice and inspiration.
What has been the public’s reaction to your designs? I’ve had a lot of positive feedback. However, fashion is like art and reactions to it are very subjective. I’ve put all my heart in my last collection and it’s a huge satisfaction when someone buys an item from the collection. What does winning the New Fashion Designer Award at the MFAs mean to you? First of all the reward is recognition of all my hard work. It is also a massive boost for my career and gives me courage to persevere. Future plans? I would love to open my own branded shop in the coming years and make it internationally.
When did you decide to pursue your studies in fashion design? When I turned 18, I decided to give design a shot and enrolled at the Polimoda International Institute of Fashion Design and Marketing. To date, you have presented three collections: two during your studies and one at the MFW. What inspired these collections? The collections were inspired by different themes. For each collection, three main subjects inspired me: a place, a person and an era. A lot of research is needed to make these three subjects work together. The East is one of your main inspirations – in what ways? The East is one my main inspirations for various reasons. I am fascinated with the beliefs, lifestyle and culture – you can also see this in my logo, which I have also tattooed on my right hand. The logo is an enso circle, which in Zen Buddhism is a sacred symbol. Another name for this symbol is the circle of enlightenment. For me it’s all about the mind, body and spirit. What or who encouraged you to launch your own label? It was a series of events that encouraged me to launch my own label. This was my dream and target from the moment I started studying fashion design. My mother also played a huge role in inspiring me, and she still does.
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Rosemarie Abela Age: 22 Education: Studied at the Polimoda International Institute of Fashion Design and Marketing.
Profession: Junior designer at Gagliardi and part-time fashion designer at Rosemarie Abela Fashion Studio.